Boulder Canyon- Above Tower of Babel
- Across From Cenotaph
- Across From Mind Shaft Cliff Crag
- Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
- Californication
This variation was slightly funner than the route to the right. The upper crack takes BD 1-3.
Sep 1, 2017
One of my favorites at this crag.
May 24, 2015
I placed a 0.5 and 3 C4 in the crack. You definitely want something in the 2-3 range.
May 19, 2013
- Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck)
- Dexter
Odd to even have this one bolt as a route, especially when a well-bolted 5.5 is just to the left.
Sep 1, 2017
Good route to learn trad. The couple bolts to the left allow you to weigh your gear placed, without fear of them pulling out and you falling a substantial distance. Tricky placement in some dirty spots, but will give a new trad leader a feel for it. Bomber nut placements, tricky for cams as the crack is flaring in many locations. Otherwise, not a very exciting route.
Jul 21, 2015
Led up this just to clean the anchors. Probably one move of 5.3 and then not any harder than walking around the back. It should be called this "it is what it is", since that's pretty much the deal. Great for new leaders. You can lead up to the first bolt then combine the line w/ Nurse Nikki (5.5) for a really safe first lead.
Jul 2, 2012
- Erika
Fun one, felt close in difficulty to route to the left.
Aug 30, 2017
Really fun climb. Great route to lead climb.
May 7, 2014
This route starts the same as Quicksilver (which goes straight up the face through crimps over the roof 10c? Erica however moves to the right and over the roof via a large flake (at bolt 6), the crux is getting your feet set on the roof prior to continuing to the finish. As of today 6/10/13, there is only one (sissy) hanger at the top, you can however clip this and continue past it to the chains for Thunderhead, on the ledge and to the right.
Jun 11, 2013
- Fire and Rain
The guidebook calls this a 5.9+ and calls Firestarter (just to the left) a 5.10b which is opposite of what is posted here on Mountain Project. In any case, the traverse left about 15 feet up and the traverse left again under the 2nd roof to join Firestarter are definitely the cruxes, maybe harder than 5.9+ if you are shorter like me. I used 3 60mm alpine draws, 1 to protect the 1st traverse using the random bolt above, and 2 to extend around the 2nd roof to reduce rope drag. In fact, once I got over the 2nd roof and clipped the next bolt above it, I removed the draw that's just to the left of the 2nd roof. This helped quite a bit with reducing rope drag. Above the 2nd roof, the route mellows out. In any case, this is kind of a funky route, but it is still enjoyable.
Aug 27, 2017
Why on earth traverse left? How about place an Alien under the flakes and lead the SOB directly up? It's 10b, and it's been done. I also cleaned off that 20 lb. loose flake above the Alien-protected roof.
Aug 9, 2016
Great route! The crux is definitely the first 15 feet. Layback until it gets too sloped, and then look for crimps/jug up above. Another cruxy section about halfway up the route, but after that it's 5.6/5.7. Definitely worth a go.
Aug 31, 2015
Be sure to add some slings or use long draws for the traverse out left.
Aug 16, 2014
- Firestarter
The moves from the ground to the little roof 10' up are pretty hard. Much easier after.
Aug 26, 2015
- Friends
The right bolt at the anchor could use a tighten. It's still sturdy, but you are currently able to spin it a couple millimeters.
Jun 7, 2017
You could place a big nut (#11) after the 3rd bolt (I think) in a crack on the left with an extension to sew this up if it makes you nervous. I didn't feel it was entirely necessary, but it's there if you want it. Also, with a 70m rope I did this in one pitch with plenty of rope to spare.
May 12, 2017
I used a #2 c4 after 3rd bolt.
May 24, 2015
- Full Respect
Update on where this route goes. Climb the first 5 bolts up a slab. 1-3 gear placements in the undercling crack and finish on the upper right hand bolted portion of Respect, NOT UP LEFT. Variation called Fully Respectful, also 5.12-. Climb the first 5 bolts of Full Respect (5.12-), one gear placement, then climb up left at 5.10c-ish to a 2-mussy hook top anchor. Hopefully I confused everybody by now.... (See Respect for yet another variation and even more confusion.)
Apr 10, 2017
I'm gonna go with El Hache here on this one. Calling this 11 ANYTHING is a bogus move. Hell, there's more feet at a glove factory. SOLID, spanking 12 territory. Maybe I just need to learn the moves? Or maybe I need to lose a hundred pounds. Or maybe the assclowns calling this 11- need to have their heads checked....
Aug 27, 2016
When I FAed this route in 2009, moves wired, it felt 5.11d. About 4 years later, in Alzheimer onsight mode, it felt 5.12a. Since then, multiple climbers said 5.11d or 5.12a. Saying this route is 5.11- is complete bullshit.
Jul 1, 2016
With fat fingers, it makes using a couple of the slots next to impossible. This would feel a couple grades easier with thinner tips.
Jun 3, 2014
My partner and I both felt this is absolutely 11+, don't be fooled by the slab wizards telling you otherwise!
Aug 25, 2013
Being a Morrison local, the slab felt all of .11+ to me!!! I suppose there are others who consider this easy .11...Chairman of the Board felt easier, as did the Clipboard...my 2-cents
Jun 19, 2013
- Hustle
Strangely bolted - no bolts through 15 feet at the crux-bulge (though it will take a #0.4 and a 0.5 Camalot) and yet two bolts on the 12-foot 5.2 run to the anchors?
Jul 10, 2016
We had no gear, so I wallowed up left via the hand crack, lay on my belly, and slung a chockstone. Stepped right to the bolt and higher up jammed a knot in a crack. Along the way I TR'd the roof just left of the route to the right. It was pretty good, at 10 something with a long reach to start.
Jun 23, 2011
This route is probably 10+. The holds are pretty small and the feet are tiny, rounded slopers. Slabmasters will like the crux. The rounout is on pretty easy ground relative to the rest of the route. Maybe 5.6 or so?
Jul 22, 2010
I did this today. The description is good [2nd bolt line from the left; right up the middle of the slab]. I'm pretty fair on slabs and it struck me as 10d/11a. (I'm 5'8", but it was the only fall I took all day.) Maybe Leo was right about some key holds rounding off [or disappearing altogether?]. I skipped the cams, but easily saw where the would go on the left (after the slab) before moving right to the bolt above an overlap/roof. (BTW, this gave my buddy the opportunity to approach that bolt directly, just at the wide point of the overlap.)
Jul 11, 2010
- Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun
I saw 5 variations of this climb in the new guidebook, and it made my head spin.... Go straight up the bolt line for a 5.9, and go right at any point for a 5.7.
Sep 13, 2017
I followed on Good Crack Fun (the crack variation). I'm a little weaker on crack, but this one was pretty friendly with a couple of decent jams. Worth a look if you're just getting into crack climbing.
Jul 14, 2013
Finger crack variation is pretty fun! Bomber jams but not so much for feet, so a little tricky. Finger-sized gear there and a 0.5 and 0.75 higher up will sew it up. Or just clip the bolts anywhere from 2' to 4" away from the perfect crack....
Jul 11, 2013
- Lightning Strike
I give it one notch harder than Rain Delay and Quicksilver using the right arete, somewhere around .10d, full credit around .11b without the arete.
Sep 13, 2017
Seem like pretty solid 5.11 not using the undercling or the arête .
Aug 9, 2014
Cool little route! Wimped out and used the arete, probably 10b/c that way.
Jul 11, 2013
Had a blast on this short route. 5.11 sounds good.
May 8, 2011
Smaller holds than many routes, but more positive than the other hard slabs on the N Face.
Jul 22, 2010
Slight advantage to taller people.
Oct 25, 2009
- Loyalty
This route felt harder than the .10a to the right and harder than the route to the left to my partner and me.
Sep 13, 2017
This route had some water on it today (early May), which made the crux more interesting. Under that roof though, DON'T move right to try to get the clip. It's really tough to move back left, and there aren't any good holds on the right, even though there appear to be some. Just go straight up with those underclings.
May 12, 2017
Really enjoyed this route. Tons of fun the whole way up. We avoided the runout by placing 3 pieces of gear. It's my opinion that following the route with gear makes for a funner climb as you could run it out in a straight line and miss the fun roof. Would say this one was second favorite at this area. Not difficult at all for the grade.
Sep 25, 2016
Not worth bringing the gear unless you're going for other gear lines. The only runout is through easy climbing. Partner and I both enjoyed this line quite a bit, but I'm not really sure where the crux is. The roof is pretty easy once you find the hold above it. We both thought this was 5.8, and we're gumbies. Certainly don't feel intimidated by the grade, though it *might* be a good idea to stick clip the second bolt if you're a new leader. The moves right below it are thoughtful, and a fall would be...unpleasant.
Aug 4, 2015
Don't be intimidated by the crux. All the holds are there.
May 24, 2015
There are 8 bolts on this route, unless you clip some on adjacent routes. Minor runout after B4 has ledge-fall potential and can be protected with a small cam (e.g. 0.3 - 0.5 BD). More significant runout above B6 can be protected with micro cams on the left or medium cams under the overlap to the right (long draw). Or just climb through it and wonder where those other bolts went.
Jun 17, 2014
Gear 0.5"-1" will protect the middle section nicely.
Jul 11, 2013
I did this first just running out the easy sections- did it again with gear, found a nice 0.3 C4 placement below the little roof and a 0.5 C4 in the easier climbing above it. It takes some of the fun out of it but sews it up nicely.
Mar 7, 2012
It also has something of a runout on 5.easy terrain (5.6?) that takes gear if you want it. You can step left and clip a bolt on the route to the left up toward the top to make the runout shorter if you do not carry gear.
Jul 22, 2010
- Nurse Jackie
One of the better easy first leads I've found in the canyon.
Sep 1, 2017
Kind of dumb. The "crux" is in the first 10 feet.
May 29, 2016
First bolt is placed in the perfect position for a crossloaded biner.
Sep 11, 2013
I wouldn't quite give it a bomb, but the little roof is the 5.5 move and after that it's done. But it's a great for new leaders.
Jul 2, 2012
Not very exciting in any way, but I've found this to be a good route (and crag overall) to bring people for first sport leads.
Mar 8, 2012
- Quick Silver
Another fun route, felt about the same difficulty as Spooked and Erika above the overhang.
Aug 30, 2017
Fun. If you don't bail left at the 5th bolt, this will definitely feel 10+ (maybe 11-). I'd call it 10c if you go left. It's bolted very well and is fun regardless.
Aug 16, 2014
I also didn't think this route felt that hard, but maybe it is a sign of improvement. ^^^^^^
May 7, 2014
Fun line. Pic has the climber in the crux. 5.10b/c seemed about right, as shorter climbers have to suss out slightly harder sequence. Being 6' felt like an advantage.
Jun 24, 2013
Really liked this route, but didn't think it was that hard. Hopefully it just means I'm getting better.
Sep 9, 2012
- Rain Check
Fun and interesting climbing. I counted 12 bolts plus anchor. A longer sling worked well on the 8th bolt just before the traverse left.
Aug 30, 2017
This route is easily identified by the 3 closely spaced, very low bolts at the beginning of the route. This route was really fun, and well-protected throughout.
Aug 10, 2017
Thank you very much for the Mussy hooks, Bruce. The hooks throughout this crag really speed things along, especially on a crowded day. Much appreciated!
Jun 25, 2015
Definitely a good route for learning sport lead. There's a lot of protection, great big mussy hook anchors at the top which make both clipping in easy and make it easy for your follower to rap down.
Jul 14, 2013
- Rain Delay
This route seemed a little soft for the grade compared to other routes at the cliff. Fun movement and worth doing.
Sep 13, 2017
Agree with the description here. First clip isn't too bad if you find the right feet. I really enjoyed the second crux movement. I found a good high left hand that let me muscle right past. Top is pretty basic but makes for a decent finish of a moderate start.
Sep 25, 2016
- Respect
This route seemed easier than the .9 to the left. A fun one and worth doing.
Sep 13, 2017
Full Respect mentioned in the description is incorrect. Respect was the original line. After the undercling crack, climbing upright using the right hand bolts is the original Respect. Correct for Respect goes as follows: Climb a trad dihedral to its to a bolt, traverse right using an undercling crack, and finish up right up some bolts to a 2-mussy hook top anchor. Full Respect climbs the first 5 bolts, 1-3 trad gear placements, then finishes on the same upright bolted section of Respect past the undercling trad placement(s). See other comment on Full Respect for details.... Variation: Start in the dihedral (trad), to a bolt, traverse right and a trad gear placement. Then climb up left on bolts to a 2-mussy hook top anchor. This variation is called Respectfully. Hopefully I confused everybody by now.... (See Full Respect for yet another variation and even more confusion).
Apr 10, 2017
This is now my favorite route at Cascade! It requires more gear than other routes here, so I don't think it gets much traffic. Climb this route if you brought the gear!
Aug 13, 2014
A little dirty towards the top but a fun route worth doing if you're in the area. Seemed to have more of a trad feel compared to some of the other routes in the area as the first half was mostly all gear. May be a good route to try if that's what you're looking for.
Jul 11, 2013
- Reunion
This was a fun warm-up. The roof was pretty easy with big jugs over the lip and good feet.
Aug 30, 2017
Through the roof, follow the split in the rock that looks kinda like a butt.
Aug 27, 2017
Fun route (must have cleaned up in the past few years?) with a very brief crux. Having said that, the bolting leaves something to be desired. If you've got gear with you, grab the Aliens or equivalent and some nuts and skip the first four (or more!) bolts. Solid placements over very easy climbing.
Jul 11, 2013
- Side Dish
This route felt like 5.7 climbing with one 5.8 move at the last bolt. I couldn't find any 5.9 moves on the route like the new guidebook suggests. Used a 0.4 BD halfway up, but the terrain is pretty easy in that section.
Sep 13, 2017
I think the crux on this is right by the 3rd bolt. I was surprised how easy it felt between the 2nd and 3rd bolt after having read the description on here.
Jul 28, 2014
There is ground fall potential from below the 3rd bolt in the gear placement range if you opt not to take gear. The climbing there is easy though. This is the least good of all the routes.
Jul 22, 2010
- Smallville
I thought the hand jams were good enough near the ear, but facing right and chimneying seemed easier to reach the jugs.
Sep 1, 2017
Awkward and grunty for me... not terribly hard but definitely not a give away for the grade. It's a nice change compared to the techy slabs that the rest of the cliff offers.
Jun 12, 2017
It has much improved with age, having cleaned up quite a bit.
Aug 9, 2016
The ear reminded me of Lumpy and was pretty hard for a warm up.... First I tried to jam and chimney behind it, but it was easier to just layback on the outside.
Aug 18, 2011
Not so great, honestly. I can't say as if I thought it was a good route. It was awkward on 2 ascents, but never challenging in a good way.
Jul 22, 2010
I thought this was fun. (I started in the alcove, climbed the face and small rt facing dihedral.) Couple of hand jams, an arm bar and then outside to the diagonal crack and up. If nobody had been on the next route to the right, I'd have probably gone to those anchors, but up and left worked fine with a directional cam (.4 or .5) at the ledge.
Jul 11, 2010
- Spooked
Felt about the same difficulty as Quicksilver and Erika to me. 5.10- sounds about right. Lots of bat poop below the roof, watch the feet.
Aug 30, 2017
Agreed with the previous comments here. Pretty good romp up to the roof. Find some good holds and high feet, and pulling over the roof is no big deal even for a short guy (5'6). Very fun climb worth doing if in the area.
Sep 25, 2016
Reachy roof, but trust it, the holds are good!
Jul 21, 2015
According to Bob D'Antonio's 2nd ed guidebook, this route is "Spooked" (5.10). I'm throwing up a beta photo that shows the full route.
Jul 12, 2013
I thought this was the line called Spooked? When I climbed it, I was wondering if the poop had something to do with the name. Could the route currently labeled as Spooked be wrong? Or am I wrong?
May 23, 2012
Visited the crag for the first time today with the family. Easy approach, cool temperatures, and very amply bolted routes. Yee ha, lots 0' fun. This route definitely climbed in the easy 10 range and pulling the roof was a blast. Oh yeah, the wood rat shit made the roof moves more fun, too!!!
May 8, 2011
The roof felt 10a but may be harder for short folks.
Jul 22, 2010
- Summer Nights
I think the bulge at the top is awkward. 5.9 IMHO. One could also start this route with the 4 bolts on the blunt arete to the right of the tree scar.
Oct 8, 2009
- Thunderhead
Really enjoyed this one. Thoughtful climbing above and below the crux, but none of it is too hard. The crux is sequency and thoughtful but really excellent once you work it out. Very well-protected.
Aug 4, 2015
Sweet climb. I went right at the roof pumpy after the roof.
May 24, 2015
At the overhang, you can either go straight up the bolt line to thin hands/slopy side pulls (my book calls this 11...) or use the crack 2 feet to the right, (with the bolts just at your left hip) 10b, one of the more interesting climbs at the crag, & well-protected.
Jun 11, 2013
- Weeds
Fun lead for those just learning to place gear. The middle and upper sections take BD 0.5-3, and I didn't see any issues with any placements or overall rock quality.
Sep 1, 2017
- Ament's Rock
- Aids
Anyone know if this FA is the same as the realtor?
Jul 24, 2007
- Wiggly Seam
Dirty, crumbling rock encrusted in lichen. Unless you are looking for choss, I suggest skipping this one.
Mar 26, 2008
- Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can), The
- Angel of Death (formerly listed as Drink to Puke), The
A few years ago, Mike and I went back. Clipping the 14 bolts, I led this climb, the top of which seemed different from what I remembered. The climb that Mike led in 1981 didn't have a #3 Friend placement at the top of the dihedral, as does this climb. As I brought Mike up, he noted that he had exited left in 1981 (on what is now known as "Icy Paralyser") where that line of bolts diverges from this one. Yesterday, we climbed "Hydraulic Sandwich" and "Icy Paralyzer." We now firmly agree that "Icy" was MIke's lead in '81, when he placed maybe a couple/three wires and one or two Friends on the whole pitch. Only four sizes of rigid-stemmed Friends were available. A #1 Friend might have been placed after exiting from the main dihedral, to the left. We thought our 1981 route was 5.10. That's one reason that I later assumed we had done "DtP" it is rated 5.10.
Sep 25, 2015
Wow, you guys play nicely together. Ice cream for both of you! Seriously- I wouldn't have guessed that it was a free route before the bolts either, so I can see where the mistake got made. Nice that you are both taking it in stride.
Jun 1, 2011
Steve -- No worries. I don't think first ascenders own the rock, anyway. Every time I've driven up the canyon since we climbed it, I've reminisced about it. Now I'd like to clip those bolts (and the others on the rock). So leave 'em there.
Jun 1, 2011
George, that must have been an impressive lead by Mike. I can imagine there was hardly any gear at all let alone any good gear. Since there was no record of your ascent on the rock or any guidebook as of 1996, we bolted it. If you guys are sure this is the same line (and I believe it probably is) and Mike wishes to see the bolts removed, I will gladly remove them. We named it the Beer Can for the 30 year old Coors Cans we found wedged on the summit block. Peace, Steve S.
May 30, 2011
Mike Endicott led me up this route in Sept 1981. Most of the climb had no good pro. We called it (and the rock) The Angel of Death. The rock resembles a Darth Vader-like creature with wings folded down. The route climbs along the left edge of the right-hand wing.
May 30, 2011
- Beer Belly
"First attempt to climb up through the chimney. After most likely failing" lol, totally true.
Oct 26, 2015
This route does not deserve a bomb rating. It is not great but is worth doing if you are at the rock. I would definitely have a #6 Camalot if you lead it.
Oct 25, 2015
One move of 5.9+ on the face to get started. Don't fall. The bottom was too wide for a #4 Camalot, but I think a #4.5 would have placed OK to protect this. Crawl through a shrub to get it in, reverse the move, and then go face climbing. Up higher, the climbing is much easier. I think I only did 1 real offwidth move on the route. Not worth the effort.
Oct 10, 2005
- Hydraulic Sandwich
Clipping the bolt above the sloping ledge is committing. The swing at the roof is fun!
Oct 25, 2015
I agree with Ivan's statement on clipping the bolt above the sloping ledge, it's commiting. I'm 5'6" on a good day and had to use a 6" cheater to clip it after moving up a bit on the crimps. Without it, I would have had to do a really scary move to clip. Other than that, a really fun climb.
Apr 23, 2012
The roof is a fun "no feet" swing through. Why not use feet? Because you don't have to. Monkey-bar like holds don't need them.The crux is up above on the slab and face. Edging shoes or crimping dues, your choice.
Oct 10, 2005
Turning the roof is exciting, but not too hard. I did not unclip the bolt protecting the roof and instead used a long runner. But the first bolt above the roof caused the rope to run around a small corner, and that caused some serious drag later. So maybe unclip the bolt above the roof after clipping the bolt above that. Clipping the bolt above the big sloping ledge was scary for me. It's a long reach (and I'm tall), and you're a long way above the previous bolt. You have good edge for one hand, but you have to smear up with your feet to make the reach (or worse if you're short). If you blew the clip, you'd come flying over the roof and probably hit the wall below. If you're having trouble making this clip, you can traverse right on the sloping ledge and temporarily clip a bolt on Icy Paralyzer.
Aug 29, 2004
Everyone should go to HydraulicSandwich.com for more details!!!
Nov 16, 2003
- Icy Paralyzer
Yesterday, Mike Endicott and I climbed the routes known as "Hydraulic Sandwich" and "Icy Paralyzer." We now firmly agree that Mike led "Icy" in '81, when he placed maybe a couple/three wires and one or two Friends on the whole pitch. Only four sizes of rigid-stemmed Friends were available. A #1 Friend might have been placed to the left, after exiting from the main dihedral of "DtP" onto "Icy." We thought our 1981 route was 5.10. That's one reason that I later assumed that we had done what became known as "DtP," which is rated 5.10. BTW in '81, we climbed directly up to the main dihedral, instead of traversing right from today's bolted anchors at the start of the pitch. Instead of the cumbersome name "AoD," let's call this route Cool Runnings. Mike certainly kept is cool when running it out, up unknown, difficult, committing terrain without any of the 15 bolts now on the climb. See the comments posted for "AoD"/"DtP."
Sep 25, 2015
The best of the 3 sport climbs on the wall, and a good route overall. I thought the moves through the roof were moderate 5.10 and a second 5.10 crux came up on thin face moves above. The picture below shows the good stem one can get by going high, clipping to the left, then stepping out to the branch off that this line takes from the 5.10 line. I found a really cool and fun rest there when, unable to stem due to a severe ankle injury, I layed back hard left with my body from the corner, crossed hands a few times and plopped my left palm down on the big bucket with my feet out to the right still horizontally even with my head. This felt like a "no hands" rest and was a stance sufficient to clip from. Funny stuff you run into on rocks like this.
Oct 10, 2005
I thought this was quite hard. Moving left to get established over the roof seemed much harder than the 5.9 that Ron says above. And you end up on an insecure stance. With difficulty, I moved further left and around the arete to a big ledge for a rest. The crux for me was making the clip after moving left onto the lip of the roof, but I was a little spooked and rattled.
Aug 29, 2004
- Animal World
- Aardvark
- Animal Instinct
Climbing friend, I make enjoyable pumping flash of this fine route! I very much like power arete with hold of undercling shape! I take deep breath and forearms become refreshed at crux, and climbing becomes not so difficult with the correct mental state and many practicings of the 4-plan.
Jan 29, 2015
This is a magnificent route that climbs the beautiful arete. I have worked the route the last two days and felt that there were two distinct and different cruxes, one about 3 or 4 bolts out and then another near the top. There seem to be a million tick marks for feet all over the route with some fun, body tensiony heel hooking on the upper section. I copped a no-hands rest about halfway up by traversing 1 foot right at the ledge although the guidebook doesn't seem to consider this "on". Either way, it's a pumpy route and fairly consistent with the grade. As usual, you get the climbing grade controversy, I have heard that it's as low as 12b and as high as 13a. I have been climbing lots of mid to hard 12s in Rifle, Potrero, Shelf, Clear Creek, the New, etc. and feel that it's fairly consistent with the grade of 12c. Rate it what you want if it makes you feel better. Nonetheless, the route is stellar and props to the person who bolted the route! Make sure to check out Animal Magnetism close by.... I reckon that this is the best 5.11 in Boulder Canyon....
Mar 23, 2011
I left an Ipod Nano here yesterday April 23rd 2010.... If you found it, would you please please get in touch with me... you will get infinite Karma points! 4252680126. Jesse
Apr 23, 2010
Did the sharp left hand crimp next to the first crux-clip break? It seems a lot smaller than I remember it, I hadn't been on this route for years. Maybe it was the smarmy weather. Still one of my top 5 favorite front range routes. I think 13a if you don't do the no hands rest between cruxes, 12d if you camp out on the ledge; moves are as hard (but not as painful and crimpy) as HOD to the left.
May 28, 2009
My partner sent the lower crux this way: right hand on the undercling...left hand up left to a small 2 finger lip that is sharp. Right foot on tiny dime edge and after moving the left foot up to an ok smear throws with right hand to the sloper. I could get the left hand 2 finger hold, but then couldn't release the undercling...might try the other beta here and skip this crap 2 finger hold. Not using heel hooks on the upper section would be stout.
Oct 26, 2008
Phenom route - definitely 12c.
Jul 15, 2008
Sweet route, temp-dependent
Nov 14, 2005
FWIW, this may have a height dependent crux, as I did not think this was a hard-12c. I got this second try and have never sent Rifle 12c in fewer than 3 tries (Vasodilator took me about 10)
Nov 14, 2005
12cs at Rifle take me 5 or less tries. This one took me about 10. It is very [temperature-dependent], but I would say the crux move is as hard as any move on Vaso. It's much harder, for instance, than "Bovine Impact" at Rifle, another Fred Knapp route...It's a super good route, though, regardless of the grade. I also moved straight to the left-hand gaston from the right hand undercling, and then slapped the sloper.
Nov 13, 2005
Jim, The added bolt when it below the bolt that protects the lower crux. It is designed to help if you blow the clip. I'm a cheapscate when it comes to bolting, at least by today's standards.
Oct 13, 2004
This is a stellar route; Kudos to Fred and Dan for putting it together. If you don't step around the corner to the right after the first crux to rest (which drops the difficulty), but instead stay to the left for a more taxing rest, then it is a comparable red point to Latest Rage at Smith Rock in Oregon, although more moves. It is a notch harder than Easy Skankin in Rifle, but a notch easier than Pretty Hate Machine. So, call it standard solid 5.12. (Certainly, no-one will call it 12a.) It would be a difficult route to onsight--very beta intensive. Yes, you have to use lots of heel hooks, especially on the upper arête (I count four). Using these heel hooks and slapping the arête_well, you are not going to get better pure arête climbing in the Front Range. PS: Fred: where did the added bolt go in?
Aug 23, 2004
12b? I've heard this thing called a possible 13a (duck and run), not that I'd know. Perhaps solid, very solid 12, possibly +. On the first crux, it seemed best to go up with the left hand first to the sloping gaston, and then match before slapping for better holds. Feet are terrible. Not sure how you could do the upper section without heel hooks.
May 10, 2004
Richard - Yes, it's a long reach with the right hand.
May 1, 2004
Joe - Thanks for another view. We had taken a look at the gaston and decided that the feet just got worse. The cross-through leaves your right foot well placed, but requires a great deal of flex in the hips, and it's powerful. Frankly, I'd prefer it without the cross-through since that makes the move even more powerful. Next time we are up there I'll give the gaston a try. In similar situations, I've found the trickier footwork to be more successful than the more powerful solution.
Oct 2, 2003
To jump in here, Richard... the beta I used for that section was to crank from the undercling straight up with the left to a well-ticked gaston edge. My partner used a four-pad micro-crimp just below and to the left of this. Then I would quickly slap the right hand onto the groper (the one you probably cross to). This might not work if you don't have the ape index. We both initially tried the cross-through to the groper, which went more staticly, but couldn't move up from that hold. I could buy this as being a really hard Rifle-12b, but in B.C. or C.C.C this is solid 12c.
Oct 2, 2003
We should all be so neglected. You didn't comment on the beta yourself, Fred, but was the left hand cross-through the way you had sussed out the first crux? This move seemed really powerful, has so far always stalled me, and may not even work if you don't have the ape index.
Oct 1, 2003
Thanks, Richard...it's just that I was feeling so neglected....
Oct 1, 2003
Geee, Fred, how could we have let this slip by? For what it is worth, here is my impression. First, Animal Instinct is a killer line and truly worth the three stars posted here (That was the stroke). Second, it's tricky and powerful, but well worth the trouble to solve. Initially easy moves gain the base of the arete which is followed by a few straight-forward moves to a powerful undercling off progressively worsening feet. Hunker up with the undercling in the right hand (sic!) and then make a very strenuous reach right with [left] hand to an initially sloping ledge. This move seemed hard. Once established right of the arete and on the ledge, a step around left puts you on the arete proper with holds coming from both sides. We found that a couple of heel hooks worked well for this sector. In fact, a heel hook seemed essential for the last clip on the arete. Move left at the top of the arete to another hard move on largely crisp edges. This is followed by a run up to the anchor on Sun Dog. Frankly, the final 5.9 run to the anchor seemed like a full blown crux in its own right, not difficult but spooky by the time you get here. Overall: great line, interesting and difficult moves, well protected but for the end, on excellent quality Boulder Canyon granite. (***)
Sep 17, 2003
No one has commented on this fine route? If the grade and bolts aren't [controversial], I should say that I rated the route 12b, not 12c and feel that it should be a benchmark for that grade. Also, a bolt was added by a third party (I gave permission after getting tired discussing it). I just don't want people think I'm another overbolter/overgrader. It's just that I try to use the standards of Eldorado Canyon, Rifle or American Fork.
Sep 16, 2003
- Animal Magnetism
This climb has awesome great exposure and fun moves! I mainly climb in Vedauwoo and up the Poudre Canyon, and for what it's worth, I would say 11a/b simply because of the length of the climb and the pump factor. I think it's only a 11c because it's in Boulder Canyon. No single move was 11+, just sustained 10d. Really it's 5.Fun! Great Climb.
Mar 8, 2017
Simply fucking great!!!!!
Jun 9, 2016
Removed some draws off of this yesterday. Happy to return them....
Oct 19, 2015
I agree with Tony's comments concerning - I didn't have much trouble with the lower crux, but the top is more sequency than my tired old self could handle. All the holds are there, so the solid .11 climber shouldn't have much trouble with this. That being said - why all the bolts? It seems pretty protectable throughout most of the climb.
Jul 23, 2013
While I can see this route becoming vastly easier once you have the beta dialed, the lower crux is quite sequencey and the long sustained nature of the upper section can really wear you down if you don't do things just so. I actually think that, in contrast to routes like Free Willie which are obviously soft, that Animal Magnetism felt to me more like 11d while I was attempting to onsight it. Regardless of the grade this is an amazing climb and absolutely worth getting after!
Jun 13, 2012
Best sport climbing pitch in the canyon? I think yes.
Oct 14, 2011
I left an Ipod Nano near here yesterday April 23rd 2010 at the base of Animal Instinct, the arete climb.... If you found it, would you please please get in touch with me... you will get infinite Karma points! 4252680126. Jesse
Apr 23, 2010
What a fun route, pumpy and tricky. That big hold out left at the first crux fooled me, it felt much easier to move straight up instead of reaching out left.
Oct 20, 2008
This is a great pitch. My beta for the lower crux: use the left Gaston to get the right hand in place. Then lean to the right and do the high step to the hold between the 3rd and 4th bolts, but with the *left* foot. Now stand using a laybacky move Gaston-cranking off the right hand. This seems easier than the right-footed high step shown in the middle picture of the 2nd row. Note: if your belayer refuses to follow, cleaning is difficult.
Jul 14, 2008
I agree with the above posters about the second crux and height (I'm sub 5'3). For me, the first crux (down low) was casual, but the second crux was harder because I had to use a slippery hold to reach the jug.
Jun 28, 2008
This is one of my favorite pitches, trad or sport, in the whole canyon. The section from after the second crux to the anchors is as good as it gets. The fact that I can speak so highly of this pitch despite the fact that it has historically given me trouble is a testament to its quality. Note on the rating: anyone below a certain height (185 cm??) will find AM's rating quite solid as the second crux will not involve a long reach to a great jug, but instead popping to the jug from a nubbin which is almost always wet.
May 19, 2008
I'm short (5' 5") and found the upper crux considerably harder than the lower one. The lower crux is just balancy. Warning: beta ahead. Short person beta - for the lower crux - from the decent hold just below the 4th bolt, reach up and left and grab the large sidepull left of the bolt with both hands. Put your right foot on the hold where your hands just were (high step to the hold below the bolt). Then layback/highstep/rock up on to your right foot, reach up and get the finger pocket above the right bolt with your right hand. Next bump up to the jug just above the pocket. For the upper crux - work your hands up the left sloping rail until your left hand is on the third decent hold - between the two large jugs lower down and the small crimper further up. Move your feet up to the two decent incut feet, then reach up with the right hand to a small, wet, slimy hold just below a large chalked jug. Hop your left foot up and go for the jug.
May 15, 2007
David- I guess to fine tune my point is: ratings from one side of a particular crag to another is a relavent debate, or one end of canyon to another. However, to compare two different styles of climbing or two areas, i.e. Yosemite crack climbing versus Eldo slab climbing versus Rifle steep limestone, is comparing apples to oranges. Eldo 5.11 does not equal Boulder Canyon 5.11 does not equal Yose 5.11 Grades are basically area and style-dependent. One man's nightmare is another's daydream. Just my opinion.
Jan 4, 2007
K. Noisewater's post raises some thought provoking issues about the personal variability of the rating system. In general, I agree with his relative rankings but: Plan B is much easier for me than Tell Tale Heart, essentially the difference between onsight and total flail. I'm far more likely to fall at the 2nd crux of Animal Magnetism than at any point on The Edge. My approximate lifetime batting averages on these two climbs: AM .250, TNE .970. For that matter, I like my chances less on AM than on any pitch of Astroman except for the hard (traditional) version of the boulder problem. Have I crossed the border into full fledged moronism?
Jan 3, 2007
11c solid (for BC, not Eldo). The first pitch of Global Gorilla just left is solid 11b, and considerably easier. Of course if you compare it to Jules Verne, the Edge, Astroman, the whole discussion is irrelevent, bordering on moronic. My take on bench mark Boulder Canyon sport grades ONLY is. Freewillie -10d/11a (soft) Global Gorilla -11b (solid) Animal Magnetism -11c/d (solid) Empire of the Fenceless (ER) -11d/12a Hot Flyer (USR) -12a Tell Tale Heart (ER) -12a Plan B (USR) - 12b (solid) Animal Instinct -12c (solid) Of course people disagree on these, but relative to each other, I say it's about right.
Jan 3, 2007
11c sustained climbing, minus a subtle rest after the first crux. May feel easier to folks with smaller hands, i.e. the undercling seam is a "jug" instead of a one knuckle crimp. Ain't no way it's 11a :). Great climb all editorials aside. -KT
Nov 6, 2006
BE CAREFUL on the lower out, especially if top-roping. A 60 meter rope will not reach in the plumb line. Because of the traversing nature of this route, the lead climber starts uphill on a high spot/pedestal, but lowers off to a different spot further down the hill. If the belayer then stands at the downhill spot and belays a climber on TR, the rope WILL NOT REACH when the TR climber lowers straight back down to where the belayer is. I watched a friend get lowered off the end of the rope here. Tie a knot in the end of your rope! Always! And a stopper knot, not some weak-ass figure eight. But you knew that.
Feb 1, 2006
A very, very enjoyable route. It is very height dependant though, my rating reflects that. For me, the crux was the bulge down low, and the rest of the route is fun cranking on jugs. Shorter climbers may struggle through the upper section.
May 10, 2004
Is there, as they say, a grain of truth to Ken Trout's attempt at humor? By skipping 2/3 of the bolts on this route I didn't change it for those who can only imagine bolts, but neither was it much harder than clipping the bolts. It's just a rather disappointing experience given the potential for greatness. Before you list trad routes that haven't had bolts added to them you should ask Alan Nelson about the Bacher-Yerian.
Aug 11, 2003
Comment deleted March, 2007. Sorry it took me so long to figure out how to get to my original account and delete the dumb stuff. Steve, or anyone, please message me via the mtn proj if you know of any other comments that need fixing. ps Good lead! pps BRING A 70 METER ROPE OR BE READY TO PENDULUM!
Aug 11, 2003
I've led this w/3bolts and I think with the right cam another could be skipped. The clean protection is so good near the top that an A1 medium stopper could be tossed into the crack from 10' away (the bolt is inches away). This would have been a great route. The added finish is suspect and is another story.
Jul 1, 2002
I really enjoyed this route. It has a great variety of moves on it with a technical, fingery crux and then a long, pumpy, reachy section above. Good reach is an advantage on this route and seems to bring the grade on the upper section down a letter grade or so.
May 20, 2002
- Animal Riots Activist
Both anchor hangers are loose. I don't know how solid the bolts are, but rappel/lower carefully, and don't toprope off them.
May 30, 2017
The crux beta seemed pretty straightforward (hang slopers, throw right foot onto a good edge out right, reach with right hand to a sinker finger-bucket). Fun route.
Jul 30, 2014
No comment on grade; however, foot beta is important on this one. I found that cutting my feet at the lip and, with momentum, throwing my right foot on the obvious, large foot hold out right made this go down fairly easy. Ignore those tiny ticked jibs.... Stick to the good feet.
Jun 5, 2014
Interesting reading the comments after climbing this recently. I'll chip in my .02: Toe cam - I have no idea where you would use a toe cam to make it easier, it seemed like the holds were all facing the wrong way for this tactic(???). Hard/easy... my first go felt really hard, but it was pretty hot and humid, which isn't a good combo for this (or any) route. After figuring it out, it was still not super easy. Somebody calls it 11c, and their tick comments say 'onsight with a rest' or something like that. Not sure what to say about that. Short versus tall, either should work ok. Short would be better for heel hooking. Tall can throw further, but it is more shouldery. I missed ac's hidden crimp, maybe that would help. Another person had a good comment about paying attention to moving your leg around the rope. My first go I didn't really enjoy it, but after I put it together, it was actually pretty fun. Definitely worth doing if you are in the area.
Aug 26, 2013
I'm 8ft. tall and this route felt like 5.9b. But, my girlfriend is only 3.6 inches tall and she said it felt like 5.17a so we split the difference and came up with 5.12a. Oh, and this is a good route too if you like that sort of thing.
Dec 21, 2012
I'm short, so I went from the slopers and basically jumped to the good rail out right. Once I stuck that, I swung my right foot over and crossed my left hand into the rail and mantled up to the slab section. I thought it was a fun route overall.
Mar 11, 2012
This route is temperature dependent. Sent second go today, the middle of December. Comparing this to Empire of the Fenceless or Strange Science just across the canyon, I would say it sits in between. In 60+ degrees, it would be hard. 11d?
Dec 18, 2011
Probably soft, but I thought it was a ton of fun. The moves before the crux are big for me! My feet often cut going to the triangular jug, then some high steps and pinches get me to the crux, which felt a little more difficult than Days of Future Passed.
May 27, 2011
Kind of a cruise to the crux but nice movement. Coming off of an elbow injury maybe I'm feeling soft, but the crux move seemed 12a to me.
Jul 27, 2010
This climb is great an fairly easy hike up to the crux then play on the sloper for a while right hand over to crimper. Then throw for a little crack. Then walk up the rest.
May 30, 2010
This felt significantly easier than 5.12s on nearby walls. I have recently had difficulty with Prince of Thieves 5.12a/b and Space Goats 5.11d. I want to rate this 11b, but to reduce conflict, I'll say 5.11c. I'm 5'6.5" +3.
Oct 15, 2006
This route is definitely similar to a gym climb. The crux is very difficult for shorter people. While you're on the sloper, the rope can get in the way of your foot maneuvering.
Jun 18, 2006
Jug haul to V4 boulder problem. I found to best beta is high step left from the jug, left hand windmill to the low sloper/sidepull on the lip, right foot on good edge below jug, right hand backstep to postive part of the lip, match, left foot to jug, right foot flag, right hand gaston on rail then crimp it. Cut feet and swing right foot to low positive rail, shift your weight and fire to the good crimp. 5 moves. This route gave me a hard time the first time I was on it.
Nov 24, 2005
One hard move and that's pretty much it... Took me a while to figure out how to pull the crux.
Oct 27, 2003
Beta: Stop reading if you don't want it. Left foot on nubbin, right on a good edge to the right, hands on the chalked jug well beneath the roof. High reach with LEFT hand to the left side of the sloping roof. Right foot out left kickback style. Right hand to a small crimpy sidepull out right below the roof (hard to see). Grab it, adjust left hand to slopy crimp on roof. Walk feet over to the right ending with the right foot on good sloper way out right. Then go for the slanting jug above the roof with your right hand.
Oct 22, 2003
I didn't find this route to be stout for 12a. In fact, Sun Dog - also 12a at Animal World - is significantly harder.
Jun 25, 2003
Difficult, one-move-wonder. Contrasted to Global Gorilla, it should earn a single star for the easy approach to the crux (5.9 or 5.10), single move crux perhaps two, a ledge rest before the last sequence, and a short route overall. Slopey move to a deep slot. Gotta stick the sloper.
Jun 19, 2003
Oh sure, ask me a year later... (snicker)I honestly recall it not being that hard for 5.12a- maybe the same as Empire of the Fenceless (?). Anyway, the toe hooks I am talking about were like side-pulls for the toes down below and kept my body at the right angles to be somewhat secure with the available hands. No doubt, as this climb "wears in" over the years, it will get harder.
May 29, 2003
I agree with the comments above regarding this route. I got so flustered, falling repeatedly off the crux, that I tried to aid it by stepping in a sling, albeit unsuccessfully. I'm 6' tall with long arms so I don't think the problem is a reach issue. The crux seems to be sorting out your sequence of slaps along the slopey crimps at the lip of the bulge.
May 29, 2003
Whoa. The hardest 12a I've ever been on. What toe hook are you talking about? I'm only 5'8", but I would think I would've at least seen something for the feet. I ended up just campusing through the slopers to the finger bucket at the end. Nice to see some Boulder Canyon climbs with honest (sandbagged) grades.
May 29, 2003
I did not think that this one was too hard, but maybe it plays to my strengths. It is a matter of just a few moves. Shoulder strength and arm length may be crux for some people, but for me it was more the footwork that gave me the body position I needed. 5.12a seems reasonable, I guess for a local grade on sport. I've been on harder 5.11s and easier 5.12s.
Jun 26, 2002
This has to be one of the hardest 12a sport climbs in Boulder Canyon
Jun 26, 2002
Without commenting too much further on the grade, I can say that at 5'10" there is a dividing line. This climb [would] be significantly harder for short people than for tall people due to the [availability] to [toe-hook] the feet below the sloping rail. I'm 5'10" and have relatively long arms and found that I could reach everything I needed without a real struggle, but with not more than an inch to spare.
Jun 18, 2002
- Animation
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best!
Nov 15, 2017
Great holds, bolting, and climbing. One of my favorites in the area.
Jul 17, 2017
IT IS WRONG TO USE OR EVEN MENTION THE NAME Jaycene’s Dance. Leitner and Alber went up and retro-bolted a route already climbed and named ANIMATION, then had the phenomenal lack of character to rename it. How low can you go? It is however appropriate to mention that the route was retro-bolted because the bolts are there, and I did not place them So please do not validate their transgression by listing Jaycene’s Dance as an AKA. THE ROUTE DOES NOT HAVE TWO NAMES any more than it has two first ascents. Thank you.
Jul 7, 2017
So much fun! Large variety of rock shape and movement.
Jan 2, 2017
Everything you read here is correct - I just wanted to add that a 60m rope works fine for a TR. There are rap rings and quick hooks at the top. Set your own gear for the TR. I'm sure this gets enough laps that the anchors would have to be replaced often otherwise.
Aug 8, 2016
Do this climb. It's awesome.
Mar 28, 2015
Hit it yesterday on a warm winter day. Great sun until around 3. Great grippy rock, every hold was solid. Great 5.8. Solid hardware, though I threw a piece in before the first bolt for extra pro, since it's a bit tall.
Jan 27, 2015
On June 9th, Dale Haas and I replaced the old anchor with two 1/2" SS Powers bolts. We added SS quicklinks and SS rappel rings to the hangers. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
Jun 16, 2014
Such a fun route! Definitely one of the better 8s I've done. Fun moves, good to put a beginner on top rope I would think (but really fun to lead). If you are leading it, it's hard to reach the 5th (?) bolt from the big ledge.... I'm 5'8", and I had to do a little move to reach the bolt. All in all, great route! Do it if you're in the area!
Jun 12, 2012
Awesome route, not the best if you are bringing a beginner out.... The crux is at the top which is amazingly tall for a top-rope!!
May 30, 2012
There's a 200+ lb rock about 20-30 feet up on the left side near a bush that looks like it might just get pulled out if you were to unwittingly use it as a hold, as I started to do.... It's not too hard to miss, though. Other than that the rock is really solid. Fun climb!
May 6, 2011
It is a lesson in climbing technique! It starts off standard, goes into a mantel, a sidepull, then a place to jam a crack. Ends with a lesson in undercling technology, and there is always a sloper to get familiar with. Have fun.
Oct 9, 2010
Good beginner's route. Fun speed climbing for intermediates/advanced climbers. Do this route, whether it is a new adventure or as a way to get your blood flowing. Great, comfy area too!
Aug 31, 2010
Great fun route - The bulge goes easily, it's getting up and close to it that was the crux for me!
Jun 4, 2009
It's fun to skip the bolts and place gear on this route. RPs to #0.75 Camalot.
Aug 27, 2008
There's a very loose flake about the size of a plate towards the top of the route (after the big ledge a bit). I couldn't pull it out, but it was freely moving in place.
Jun 20, 2008
I really liked this one as well. My first 5.8 lead ever. Positive holds everywhere. The only cruxen for me were between bolts 2 & 3 and then just below the last bolt but there was/is a nice undercling there. It was wet when I climbed it on 5/28/08. I'm either getting better, or its not really a 5.8 but maybe a 5.7-.
Jun 2, 2008
This route and Mosquito Burrito (Bowling Alley) have very similar position, although MB is more sustained, and the climbing is more intricate, for the grade. I enjoyed this route, although I thought the bolt above the first ledge-break was placed too high. I am 6', and I had to stretch for it. A shorter climber would have to do a high-step move off the ledge, and a fall there would be a big one onto the slab below after you bounced off of the ledge. A trick that I learned from setting gym routes was to never set holds above elbow height, with the arm raised above my head. That pretty much assured that a shorter person had an equal chance of reaching it from the same stance. Maybe some of these route developers should consider the same practice when placing bolts. That bolt should be a foot lower, and then the route would be better, IMO.
Nov 7, 2007
Awesome! Probably the best of its grade that I have been on in a long time. Would recommend that everyone try it.
Nov 1, 2007
Only had time to climb for a day in a half in Colorado and really enjoyed this climb. A nice change from the slab climbing. A bit more vert and gotta love the changes in the type of climbing.
Aug 14, 2007
Good climb on a nice day, don't catch it on a bad day though! haha.
May 2, 2007
The "first action photo" would be Hands of Destiny. It is located just right (2000 feet) of Jaycene's Dance.
Sep 20, 2004
Bingo, Jake, that's it. Thanks for clearing this up.
Sep 19, 2004
George: Did you end up at Mine Hole Crag, and climb Sofa Kingdon?
Sep 19, 2004
Random comments: the bolted route right of this is now listed here under "Unfamiliar Strangers, 5.9+", I believe. We climbed both of these and enjoyed them. The first "action photo" on this page is not Jaycene's Dance. I don't have enough knowledge of this crag to know what route is actually picured, but it's definitely not this route. We got lost on the way to Animal World and climbed an obscure bolted route which is on a crag about 100 yards due west of Animal World, with the base 50 vertical feet higher. It is a fun route, probably only 5.8 with about 7 bolts on it. It is just right of a gully, but I have no idea what crag it is on. There are some more bolts right of this line.
Sep 19, 2004
A single 5.8 move just before the anchors, and the rest of the route a grade or two lower. Nice and continuous, though.
Mar 1, 2004
Great route to bring a friend just getting into the sport. The positively positive blocks make it a blast and such a nice view from the top.
Jun 26, 2003
Despite the route names or bolting issues, the bottom line is that this is a great route for any intermediate leader. Whenever you need a good hand or foothold, there seems to be one there for you. Very little exposure on the way up to sketch you out. At the top there is a decent view up and down the canyon. Simply an all around good climb and one many should put on their "tick" list.
Sep 3, 2002
This climb has now been retro-bolted. Between the 4th and 5th bolts is a ledge. At 5 feet 4 inches tall, this was the crux for me, getting that 5th clip. I could not reach it from the ledge and had to make a move to get higher. A fall back to the 4th bolt would have been a good one. If you fall while pulling up rope for the clip.... Diminutive folks may wish a nut or two to place for this move. Just a suggestion. BTW, adding bolts to a climb does not generally give you the right to rename it....
Aug 13, 2002
Before it was bolted, this route was led with gear and named "Animation 5.9". After receiving bolts and letter grade drop in difficulty, it was listed in Rolofson's guide as "Jaycene's Dance 5.8"....
Jul 1, 2002
A great route. This route has plenty of holds as suggested. The length also adds to the enjoyment of the route. This is certainly a great warm up for the others on this crag. I would suggest 'Free Willie' and the 12a that you first see when you arrive from the left of the crag, a beauty. This is a super route for a new leader, not sure how to interpret 'Turbo Bitchin', but definitely great.
Oct 4, 2001
- Automatic Choke
For wusses like me, it's convenient to TR this route from the anchors on Cannabis Sportiva. Short but fun.
Mar 15, 2015
I gave this route a go yesterday. The gear was heads up until the pod at mid-height, but the climbing up to that point isnt too bad. The fractured hold in the crack didnt inspire confidence, however. The crack is just left of the arête at the crux I reached around to the right instead of jamming the off-fingers crack and found enough of an edge to get through it. It would be harder if you stayed in the crack, but a little contrived in my opinion. Good route.
Jul 19, 2009
About a month ago I put in a bolted anchor on this route and cleaned it, not knowing it had been done before. The anchor is easily reachable by lowering/rappelling from the Cannabis Sportiva anchors. In talking with Kent, it was an impressive lead by Dan Hare without cams. I think the climbing is excellent and should now see more traffic. A lead of this route would be serious as Tony has stated.
Nov 9, 2006
- Balance, The
I found just having the draw hung was enough to make the clip reasonable. I also assume that the route setter was stick clipping the first bolt or putting in pro before attempting to hang the draw. I felt on the start if you stayed just right of the first two bolts it felt safe and pretty cool. My partner went left at second bolt, and it looked really unpleasant and not as safe. We didn't know it was a mixed climb and did the crack section to the last bolt with no pro, which is dead easy, but a fall would be brutal. As I was attempting to clip the last draw before the anchor, I stood up and hit my head on the roof almost blowing my feet and taking the fall. Thank God I didn't!!!! Bring The GEAR or be prepared to climb 5.6R crack, and watch your head before the clip. Yikes!!! I'd give it THREE STARS for an adventure route. It gets sun late.
Nov 16, 2016
Total POS. Poorly bolted (can't clip first bolt from the good stance, even if you are really tall. Ledgefall potential above 2nd bolt on weird bulgy slab, lame traverse into dirty crack (WTF???). Total pile. If it was bolted better, it would maybe be 1 star, but the moronic bolting totally kills it.
Oct 8, 2012
There is good gear down and right of the first bolt although not obvious once you do the easy scrambling trying to reach the first bolt. I would agree the first bolt is not well placed. The movement on this route is good once you get into it, although it is a bit licheny since it appears to get little traffic. I placed cams from tips to number 1 Camalot and a few nuts to supplement the bolts. Worth doing if in the area and when it cleans up a bit more.
Apr 4, 2011
You need to commit to the opening moves before you can reach the first bolt. If the first bolt was 6" or 12" lower this would be a much better route. I didn't see any good gear placements just below the first bolt, and it seemed a bit strange to commit with a bad fall potential on what ended up being the crux of the entire route.
May 9, 2009
This route is pretty good. Take gear. Crux is low and kinda one move. Definitely not a bomb.
Sep 27, 2008
Helmet recommended for belayer. Rock isn't very clean.
May 15, 2008
- Beast Food Left
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best!
Nov 15, 2017
A great pitch with a technical finger jam to undercling/ lieback crux that has shut down some pretty honed climbers. I first redpointed this climb in 2008 & have repeated it almost every year since. It never feels easy. I always do it as a sport climb starting on Joint Venture for 6 bolts. Below 7th bolt on Joint Venture, step left around the arete. Unless you clip this bolt, you are very run-out, but it's easy, & there is a huge jug around the arete to pull up & clip bolt at the start of the difficulties on Beast Food. If you do clip 7th bolt on JA, you'll have to clip out of it. Ascending this left-leaning, flared groove begins with a good lieback hold. The crux is at 8th bolt. With a long Petzl draw on 9th bolt, you can clip it before executing the crux. It isn't over until you have the jugs above the anchor. The final moves above the last bolt are hard & use a wide hand jam. There are a total of 10 bolts /2 Fixe rings. There are 4 bolt (not 5) along the left-leaning groove that Beast Food ascends.
Nov 13, 2016
- Beast Food Right
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best!
Nov 15, 2017
- Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head
From Global Gorilla if you go right , into the forest and follow the path of least resistance (there is no trail and some bush-whacking is needed) or follow the cliff up for an equally adventurous approach. Find this route starting on the left wall of an overgrown gully with a nice rock for your belayer to sit on and a tree anchor. You might want to bring a stick-clip or some gear to protect the move up to the first bolt. The second pitch doesn't really require any gear but the bolt at the crux is difficult to clip if you are under six + feet tall (I recommend a stiffy). Also bring a wire brush and goggles.
Jul 15, 2004
Does anyone know where this route is? How far right of New Beginnings?
May 12, 2004
- Blockhead
Not that sweet but kinda cool. Considerably harder in my opinion than Piles of Trials. Worth doing if you're there IMO.
Jun 27, 2015
Without stemming is so awesome! Rifle style, tons of kneebar beta! 12c/d is definitely the grade if you don't use the wall to the right. That being said, either way you climb this rig it is super fun and has some classic knee bars. I counted 3 in about 10 feet! :) I thought stemming was off, also, until the guy that bolted it came up and started telling me about it!
Jan 7, 2014
The flake/sidepull feature just before the first roof broke off this morning. The BLOCK hit me in the HEAD, but luckily it left a usable feature when it departed. After regaining my wits, and cleaning up the blood, we checked to see and the route still goes. Maybe it's solid 12c now.
Apr 8, 2010
I am also glad to find out that without the stemming is 12+. I didn't think the stemming was on to begin with, got on it, figured out my beta, and thought it was most definitely harder than 12b. Really, really fun route. Rifle-like climbing on granite. Found both left and right knee bars, and this time they fit my leg size. I was really excited to find them.
Nov 8, 2009
Better than it looks, not as contrived as it looks, more independent than it looks...lots of quality movement in a small package; clearly, the corner should not be used...and it's not really that tempting...it's hard enough to get pumped in BoCan as it is. Full Disclosure: Chris is a friend of mine.
Jul 17, 2009
The crack in the corner, and everything to the right of the corner should be considered off. Anything else disrespects the roof. It's a great roof, albeit squeezed. The first 2 or 3 bolts are the same as Joint Venture. Then moving out right into the big roof, there's some powerful shouldery moves, a long reach or jump to the matchable crimp out left, and some good knee tricknology to surmount the final roof section. I'd like to add another bolt after standing up above the roof instead of climbing the rest of that arete to the upper anchor I'd make an (optional) midway anchor. Felt something like 12+.
Jul 15, 2009
The stemming is over after the traverse right. Once you step back left the business begins, but there are several Rifle-like moves that are less than obvious that make it pretty reasonable. Glad you like the route, Mike.
Jul 2, 2009
Thanks Chris. Good to know...thought I was losing a step. Although, the next move after hugging the block seemed really hard too. You don't continue to stem, right? Great line.
Jul 1, 2009
It has been done without using the obvious stem. 12c/d.
Jul 1, 2009
Wait a tick, so the dihedral is "on" for stemming/rest below the roof crux? Has the direct line, minus the stem been done? Seems more direct and harder for sure.
Jul 1, 2009
- Cannabis Sportiva
Oh boy! What a fun route! Nice climbing with great cracks available from hand-sized to finger-sized. Great overhanging stuff at the top, too. The finger cracks below the big horn are just fantastic!
Nov 26, 2017
The right anchor bolt is spinning, I didn't have a wrench with me. Everything else looks good.
Nov 25, 2017
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best!
Nov 15, 2017
Gave this a go yesterday and loved it! Definitely a bit run out at the start, but it's not really hard. I brought a small nut rack and #0.4-#1 Camalots and found that sufficient; however, some small cams may be easier for the first placement, which was an awkward stance. The top half is way too cool. Loved the dynamic moves at the top. This climb made my day as well! .10c/d and probably easier if you are taller.
Feb 6, 2017
I used cams #0.3-2 for the first section and they worked perfectly. I was a little far off the ground when I got my first piece in, but it was easy climbing. I think the "5.11 crux" was more like 10b/c. Maybe it is height-dependent? This was a very fun climb and kinda made my day.
Mar 16, 2014
The last 2 or 3 bolts are spinning, as well the anchor bolts. Feels safe, but if someone can take a wrench up there, it would be better. Great climb!
Jun 21, 2013
Double finger jam to a semi-dynamic throw under the anchors, 5.Fun.
Jul 7, 2012
The last couple moves are quite creative and made this route. NOTE FOR SELF-RAPPEL: Ya might want to set up a trolley or something, otherwise you'll be swinging hard if ya need to unclip your draws on the way down.
Jun 28, 2012
The prudent leader might bring a nut sack?!? EASY, Robertson. Let's let the ladies have a go, too. Fabulous fun climb for the grade, which I place at a couple letter grades below 11a, especially if'n you're tall and long armed. The punch all comes at the very end, with generous bolts and some THANK GOD holds on top. Takes sequence, though--gotta hit the finish right. (No cheap beta; it's either left hand or right. You gotta 50/50 chance, sucka!)
Apr 2, 2010
Don't be fooled by the featured start. Be prepared to be a little run out on small gear heading up to the bolts. The first piece of gear was well off the ground and I felt was strenuous to place. Small cams are advisable.
May 21, 2009
I thought this was a 10ish route. Probably 10c or d even with the left crack. A few balancy moves followed by some beat your chest ape moves. The horn makes it just plain fun and the bolts are very well placed. Kudos to the bolter.
Aug 18, 2008
ALERT: If you climb Joint Venture first to the bolted anchor and then traverse back left to 'Cannabis Sportiva', there is a big, TV-sized, loose block about 6' left of the anchor sitting on a ledge. It looks like a great hand jam behind it to make the traverse but - DO NOT PULL ON IT!! We would have thrown this to the ground, but were worried about it eventually rolling to the highway. It certainly needs to come off though.
May 8, 2008
Kudos to Matt Robertson for a classic route description! I found 13 reeferences...
Apr 9, 2007
Sweet pitch!! The moves off the ground were fun and that carries through to the rest of the route. I took green/yellow/red Aliens and .75/1/2 Camalots for the start, and found that to be fine for gear on the lower portion of the route.
May 15, 2006
The Rolofson guide says the last moves are 10b if you use the crack a few feet to the left or 11a if you don't. That may explain the difference in opinion as to the rating. It's pretty contrived NOT to use the crack on the left. Why not do it both ways? Climb the 10 crack, step back down, then climb it direct.
Dec 30, 2005
Fun route, and a gimme at 11a.
Jul 18, 2003
Starting the route proper just barely to the right of the roof seemed balancy and tricky, especially right off the deck. I'm sure you can walk up the gully further right.....enjoyable route with crack climber feel up high. I'm surprised how many bolts there are. The finger locks were bomber; felt like 10a at Eldo.
May 14, 2003
Per my buddy from Canada, this route is very kind in a couple of ways, eh? Great climb but a bit overrated and probably climbs around a 10c/d at most.
Feb 22, 2003
The horn that Jon mentioned seemed very out-of-place on this route. But I welcomed it with tired hands. A really cool route. The line more or less goes up the middle of the picture below. The bolts start right about where the sun is shining. Where the sun don't shine is the crack system. A few smaller cams or stoppers would take care of this pretty easily. Enjoy this climb it is one that about any intermediate climbe can do.
Aug 30, 2002
It's possible to heel-hook the horn to get some additional leverage while trying to pull the burly .11a move; Laura Black tried it on Saturday, 6/29/02, and it seemed to give her the extra bit of "oomph" weaklings like me need to pull harder moves. This is a thoroughly enjoyable climb, made more enjoyable by the steadily-increasing difficulty. It might be just me, but it appears to me that the left bolt at the top of this route could probably stand to be replaced.
Jul 1, 2002
- Closer To God
Not like I'm capable of climbing it, but I think it is sad that it is chipped.
Jul 11, 2009
Nice one, Chris! This climb is surprisingly good. The final crux sequence is anything but straight forward, but the sequence that emerges is freakin' rad-iculous!
Jul 10, 2009
- Cold Snap
Was here today and climbed this thing, traversed in from the side as the roof gets wet with drip. Guy went up just before me and pulled the fixed pin out by hand, so NO MORE PIN on this thing, blue Mastercam or small nuts to supplement what it protected. Good climb, face didn't feel much harder than 10d to me but was heady on such "smaller" gear, fun for Animal World trad if you bring up a rack.
May 26, 2015
Climbed the direct start last week by climbing around the easy way to clip the first bolt. It felt like a reachy V4 boulder problem and involved pulling on at least two blocks which may come out someday. The upper crack had interesting sections, but before the last bolt I used a hold that was covered in some black tar/poop and it felt like the rock quality was questionable. This route is worth it if you're feeling like placing some gear, but is probably the lowest quality route I've done at Animal World.
May 25, 2009
Climbed it last year sometime.... I don't know about the opening roof, I tried it on TR afterwards, but skipped it on lead, climbing just around to the right. However, I didn't use any of Free Willy. Found Alien placements and such near the pin (which I didn't trust either). After moving past the pin and up, I managed to grab something that came off almost bowling-ball sized in my hand, and had to throw down, sending belayers scampering. Adventurous given the sporty nature of the area.
Sep 3, 2007
The sketchy start just changed a lot; most of the starting roof recently collapsed. I was there last Friday and it was fine, but I walk by the area today and there is a large pile of rock spread everywhere. Somewhat surprisingly, the first bolt is still intact, but the rock that stayed up in the affected area looks pretty sketchy. Be careful hiking or climbing by this area!
May 30, 2006
On a historical note, the first ascent team placed no pins or bolts and led the route on all natural gear. (Good job lads!) The route traversed in from the right climbed the crack past the current middle crux (at the pin and bolt) and then finished up and right in the chimney gully just left of Free Willie's anchors.Does anyone have any information about the direct start or finish?
May 13, 2004
If I could give this climb 1/2 a star, I would. The best climbing on the pitch is the last ten feet. Otherwise, I found it worthy to do only if you are somewhat desperate to do gear routes you haven't done yet, like me. Dougald's beta about clipping the second bolt of Free Willie won't keep you from decking if you fall before getting gear in. Even climbing the directissima won't keep you from decking if you fall before getting gear. However, the gear is good when the opportunity first appears. It gets more spicy after the pin and bolt.
May 12, 2004
- Crack Corner
This felt a touch harder and funner than Old Dihedral. I brought a rack to 3" and felt fine, but I could see a few places for some larger gear. The left face was a bit scaly in places probably from not seeing too much traffic.
Aug 14, 2017
For the beginning trad leader, if no one is looking to get on Triple Play, there are a couple of bolts that you can clip on the way up to supplement your placements.
Jun 27, 2016
I did not see the comment above about anchors being added, so we used the anchor on Triple Play.
Jul 1, 2014
Leave the cams at home on this one. It is easily protected with hand to fist-sized hexes and a set of stoppers. Rock quality in the crack is questionable, although there are bomber jams and good edges all the way up.
Aug 29, 2012
The dihedral crack turned out to be wider than anticipated and for most of the climb. I'd advise bringing at least 1 if not 2 #4s. Two #3s would have been handy as well. Using my largest piece, a #3, early left me with nothing to protect below and through the bulge. I chose to downclimb and back clean instead of taking the risk.
May 28, 2012
OK climb, very convenient for TR'ing 'Triple Play'. I used: 2 #8 Metolius 1 #7 Metolius 1 clear Alien 1 black Alien #4, 2 & 1 Lowe Balls (way up high in the roof crack near the end).
Aug 28, 2009
Permanant anchors have been added to the top of this route.
Jul 20, 2009
At the bulge, you can get in a #1 or #2 cam before you pull over. The move is fun with good friction stemming and decent hand jams. The rest of the climb is fun and blocky, and much easier (5.5-5.6).
Jul 3, 2008
Protection: larger cams near the bottom (2-4 inches) and then one small stopper for the last few feet.
May 1, 2008
- Cujo Tranquilizer
Unpleasant, awkward, burly start (12ish) is followed by quite a bit of excellent climbing on perfect rock up higher. The slab/arete crux feels around 12- by itself. Without the opening boulder problem and with some more thoughtful/less excessive bolting, this route would deserve 4*. The golden varnished rock in the middle is some of the best in the canyon.
Sep 14, 2017
I thought this route was excellent. The first 3 bolts of this route are not the most classic or fun but goes rather quickly if you can use thin liebacks. The rest of the route is AMAZING. Even if you have to clip up, I would do it. I felt that the route was in the 12a range, because it had a ton of rests and was more technical than powerful. Easy top but a little balancy. Overall, a great route! Amazing climbing!!!
May 26, 2015
The slab climbing on this rig is highly unique. I found myself getting pumped out due to the continuous squeezing and sidepulling while using crappy feet. While the intial crux is certainly harder on a move by move basis, I felt unlocking the 40 ft of continuous slab with a final 12a section was the true crux for me.
Oct 27, 2014
Not 12a, but call it whatever you want. The first crux was a burly little section. Great route though with lots of varied climbing. I'm impressed. I overlooked this route every time I went to the upper tier but was surprised that it climbed as good as all the 4 star classics around it. Do it!
May 9, 2013
Maybe it was the specific day I was on this route, but I found it much harder than 12a compared to the other 12a's and 12b's in the area. Harder than Animal Riots Activist; harder than the second pitch of Global Gorilla, little harder than Piles of Trials, much harder than Days of Future Passed (which might not be 12a). Maybe I'll change my mind on the grade after a second go, but for now I sticking with harder than 12a, and a hard 12b.
Oct 4, 2010
A Boulder Canyon route that actually feels hard for the grade. I think the crux start is very difficult and hard for the onsight. Great climb, one of the best 12-s in B Canyon.
May 22, 2008
I thought this climb was very high quality. The start is tough, thin, and the feet are tricky. There was at least one 11+ section on the slab, unless I missed something. This climb requires a lot of draws, 19 including two for the anchor. A 70 M rope is helpful if you don't have someone to follow the route to clean the draws.
Aug 16, 2004
Seemed hard for 12a in the opening. Good hands in the lay-away start, but marginal smears for the feet. After the fourth clip things settle down to thin, thoughtful climbing in a laboratory safe environment. The best feature is probably its length. A 60 meter cord just drops you back to the base.
Jun 9, 2003
A cool variation to this pulls the 12a crux then traverses left into Animal Magnetism... I think the guide calls in Cujo Magnetism or something like that. The crux is very technical and thin but didn't feel any harder than 12a to me.
Jul 11, 2002
- Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed
D'Antonio and Hand must have old man climbing syndrome to call this a 12a (no wonder he doesn't put FAs in his books).
Jun 6, 2016
That is so interesting, Jack Sparrow, I would love to see how you climb this! I'm honestly really curious now. I thought every route you just named were grades harder, actually the route to the right of DofFP, Threshold of a Dream, was harder...interesting how one can see a route so differently per climber. Well, hope to see you around someday, Jack Sparrow!
Feb 28, 2015
So I've redpointed Wet Dream, Animal Riots Activist, The Devil, and Strange Science. I still think all those routes were easier for me as they took me between 2 and 5 tries, compared to ten on this. Been on constant Gardner, it feels harder than this, same with Joy Ride. It's probably not 12b, but I don't think it's 5.11 on the Boulder Canyon grading scale. Like I said, could just be a nemesis route for me, but I have a hard time taking 11b/c. Regardless of the grade, it's a great piece of stone with quality climbing the whole way.
Feb 24, 2015
Train4Life, please tell me you were joking when you said, "this is a Yosemite move right here." Debating whether a route is 5.11 or 12- is silly enough (is there really a difference?), but calling something a "Yosemite move" is just too good!
Feb 22, 2015
Jack Sparrow, I appreciate your comment, very respectable. I will respectfully disagree with your disagreement. I think you should try Animal Riots Activist and some solid 12a's like the ones I mentioned and see if this meets up with it. Try Tits Up at Shelf for a 12b comparison or The Constant Gardner or Joy Ride 12b for comparisons. I thought Empire was a bit soft for 12a, since it basically has one move even relatively close to 12a.
Feb 21, 2015
Hey Train4life, I will respectfully disagree with you. Could have been my personal experience with the climb, but the one move on this merits the 12a rating in my opinion. My beta involved a horrible left foot and a left hand cross to a small crystal crimp that you needed to lean in on to reach a good right hand. For me, when I compare this sequence to every other classic 12- in Boulder Canyon, it holds its grade. I'm comparing to routes like Empire of the Fenceless, Lucky Strikes, The Good The Bad and The Jacked, Prince of Thieves. Maybe I'm missing something super obvious at the crux, not sure. This climb took me ten tries when I was consistently climbing 12 - on my second go. Maybe it's 5.11 but my complete, anti-style, nemesis route.
Feb 17, 2015
I'm going to give my opinion, and I may come off as a MP mean man, but I'm just going to lay out what I think. I think this route is really in the 11b/c region. I think that Reefer Madness has a similar crux in Clear Creek. This may be a little harder because you have to figure it out, but it is not bad at all. I think the person that put 12+ onsight is a little off. This thing is totally onsight-able, and I have seen friends do that very easily. Try Animal Riots Activist right around the corner or Wet Dream at Wall of '90's or Hot Beach at Shelf if you want some comparisons for this to 12a's! I would even say that Strange Science (11d) and The Devil (11d), both at Avalon, are harder than this line! That's just my opinion...take it or leave it!
Feb 9, 2015
Likely easier for folks with bigger hands; I got a reasonable lock at the crux which made the moves easier than for those who have to hold a gaston. Either way, the business is so short, I'm not sure it earns the 12-.
Mar 17, 2014
Is the chalky rail system about 3-4 feet left of the bolts (and the crack just left of the bolt line) on, or are you only supposed to use the thin crack just next to the bolts? I either really lucked out with the sequence or used a whole slew of holds that weren't on.
Apr 14, 2012
It feels really difficult until you figure out the move. Then its relatively easy. So like 12+ OS, 11+ RP.
May 27, 2011
I really enjoy this route. There are some 5.10 moves getting to the crux. The crux is sequency and challenging, and then there is a nice bold overhanging section to the anchors. Super beta: the crux comes after clipping bolt 5, starting from the iron cross position. The next placement of the right foot is key--don't put it on the good hold, but rather on a poorer hold right below. Now cross the left foot through and put it on the good foothold, laybacking against the right hand. Position the left hand high in the crack, get the right foot on the good edge up and to the right, and crank a Gaston with the left hand, standing high and reaching for the obvious chalked horn right of bolt 6. Don't bother with any intermediates for the right hand--just go straight to the horn.
Sep 21, 2010
Don't know why, but I couldn't figure the crux out. Then watched my girlfriend do it. Went back up and sent it, no problem. Just gotta find the right sequence through the crux. Pretty fun stuff.
Sep 1, 2010
This is a fun route, there are at least half a dozen sequences for the crux section.
Oct 20, 2008
We placed a bolt where the fixed nut had historically been. Also replaced the bolt below this one as it was a spinner that could not be tightened.
Apr 24, 2008
I had noticed the nut was missing yesterday. I just replaced it with a new one about 2 months ago because the one that had been there since we put the route in looked real bad. I guess I did not smash it in hard enough. Too bad people have to steal things. Maybe we will put another bolt in there.
Apr 22, 2008
Gear alert. The fixed nut is missing. As we had no gear besides quickdraws with us, and unwilling to commit without that bit of gear, we traversed from the top of Free Willie, to the anchors on Days, hung the draws, including extended slings off the crux bolt.
Apr 22, 2008
The fixed nut is questionable. Bring some small stoppers or a small cam to back this up if you are worried clipping the bolt at the crux. I couldn't figure out how to transfer my weight onto the hold at the bolt at the crux move. After that you are pretty much done.
Jul 15, 2007
Fun but short crux. Definitely easier than Feeding The Beast right around the corner.
Sep 11, 2006
This was a pretty sweet route!! A good candidate for a 1st lead @ the grade. I don't really down grade routes but. . . I've had harder times on a few 11+s than I did with this. What do I know this was my first 12 lead. The moves are awesome though!! GEAR ALERT- as of 6-6-06 almost EVERY bolt was a spinner!! I'll try to get back for the red point this week so, while I'm there I'll wrench on those bolts. Also, the fixed nut is not too good looking - the cable has separated from the nut itself (more like a cable wrapped around chock). The moves to the next bolt aren't too hard or far.
Jun 7, 2006
I thought the crux on this was desperate and thin. The climbing above and below was more fun. Good route. Isn't there a piece of fixed gear on this thing?
Aug 26, 2004
Actually I wanted to call it "Days of Future Past" after a Moody Blues song. This was around the same time we did "Piles of Trials" which was from a Moody Blues refrain: Face Piles of Trials with Smiles. This was because my ACL exploded at the base of the climb and I had to come out of the hospital for the FA. For historical information, FA 9 Feb 1996.
Oct 27, 2003
Terrific route involving a semi hidden hold at the crux. I thought Bob called it "Days of Future Passed."
Oct 27, 2003
- Dihedral
- Evolution Revolution
I left an Ipod Nano here yesterday April 23rd 2010.... If you found it, would you please please get in touch with me... you will get infinite Karma points! 4252680126. Jesse
Apr 23, 2010
Evolution Revolution is also the name a Udo Neuman climbing video that has some of the best Euro footage ever.
Aug 15, 2007
Route Name Trivia: Evolution Revolution was the name of the Chimpanzee band from the old Saturday morning tv show, Lance Link Secret Chimp. Classic. No doubt Ken and Mark remember that show.
Aug 15, 2007
The slab, as well as the start, are much trickier than they look. I think the roof overhead gives the illusion that this section isn't very steep. 12b/c seems about right... we thought it was harder than the crux of Global Gorilla.
May 27, 2004
From the top of ER, there is a dihedral that goes up and left (5.7-5.8?) that gets you to the top of H of D. Bring a few pieces (large nuts, TCUs). From here, you can either TR Hands or lead the upper 10a headwall (5 bolts). Fun section of face with black knobs and slopey edges and dishes. Kinda dirty still... If you really want, you can set a TR on Animal Instinct and Sun Dog while youre at it. fun stuff. Caution: the following is some beta regarding ER, the second clip in the roof is not that bad if you stem way out right, and have the lip-fingerlock with your right hand.
Jul 25, 2003
ER is a subvertical slab that climbs up to a no hands rest that is followed by a short, burly sequence to the corner of a roof, after which it calms down completely. One and one half stars is probably reasonable given the proximity of GG and Hands. However, I wouldn't call it a great route; I'd call it a good route.
Jun 27, 2003
ER felt really burly in the roof. Stacking up under the roof leaves you with two, perhaps three at the most, hand transitions leading to the corner of the roof where terrific jug awaits. It seemed as though the hardest thing was to stabilize the barn-door when standing up under the roof. Can't ask for better pro - gives you a top rope through most of the crux. The run up to the anchors after turning the roof was on jugs. The opening 5.11 was more awkward than it looked to be from the ground; just thrutch through the corner. Two stars probably fits.
Jun 26, 2003
This route is excellent!! Stays dry in a downpour. Long runner on the bolt before the roof to reduce drag. My book suggests gear, but with 9 bolts, you dont need it. Perfect stone.
Jun 16, 2003
This route is excellent!! Stays dry in a downpour. Long runner on the bolt before the roof to reduce drag. My book suggests gear, but with 9 bolts, you dont need it. Perfect stone. A good start is with the first 2 clips of Global Gorilla and straight up to the second bolt of ER.
Jun 16, 2003
- Familiar Strangers
This climb has one 5.10a/b move if you go straight up through the large overhang instead of heading right. The holds are all there, but the move is dynamic and committing.
Apr 12, 2008
If you have the gear, this is the most classic warm up line on the cliff.
Mar 17, 2007
- Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food)
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best!
Nov 15, 2017
Rockfall to be cautious of here! Yesterday a large rock the size of an exercise ball fell right onto the crowd of bystanders. 5 people dove out of the way and were lucky to not be killed. The only girl with a helmet on was ironically enough hit in the head by the rock, but she was ok. This was a good lesson for me, and please be careful out there!
Aug 7, 2017
Super fun route. I went up and right and had a blast. Didn't feel easy that way necessarily, especially getting to the anchors. 5.12a.
Oct 16, 2015
Both my partner and I thought that going right was easier, though more contrived and less logical. Fun route!
Jun 28, 2008
The funky moves staying left are pretty technical (cough cough, scummy kneebar) but what sells me on the idea that this is indeed a 5.12 is the vicsious pump you have by the end! Good climb- start on Joint Venture, clip one of the anchor bolts, then continue, placing a cam or two in the corner, and up to the top. A single 70M gets you down with rope to spare. I suspect a 60M will do as well, but have not confirmed.
May 18, 2008
The crux getting into the slot on the 12b section is really strange! Felt like some sort of off width move, even though there wasn't any off width. hmm.... Also, I veered right into the old 5.7 for sufficiently easy ground to run out the distance between the bolts. The hand traverse from the old 5.7 dihedral out to the first bolt on Beast was exposed, but the jugs were huge!
Sep 11, 2004
The grading discrepancy is explained by the fact that the bolts on this route protect 2 different lines. Climbing the groove left of the bolts is continuously difficult and hard 12a or 12b. Climbing the blunt arete right of the bolts and angling back to the anchors also provides good climbing at 11+ or easy 12a. Both variations are worth doing.
Oct 27, 2003
Rolofson's book also calls this 12b, and I agree. I don't know why it originally got labelled as 12a.
Jun 25, 2003
In my opinion, this route is a sandbag at 5.12a and is probably more fairly rated at 12b. After a technical crux getting up into the slot the pitch stays strenuous including clipping the anchors.
Jun 23, 2003
Alternate description from redundant posting [Added by Ed.] Beast Food is really just a short but excellent second pitch, or alternate finish, to either the Old Dihedral (5.7) or Joint Venture (5.11a). So you can use either of these two routes to get to Beast Food.From the midpoint anchors on Joint Venture, you can step immediately left into the crack, which is not difficult and can be protected by a couple of #1-#2 friends OR you can go up Joint Venture and clip the next bolt after the midpoint anchors, and then step left and clip the first bolt on Beast Food. If you were to continue up the rightmost bolt line here rather than stepping left, it would take you to the upper anchors of Joint Venture. After all that explanation, here is my recommendation: skip the gear and the old dihedral, and climb the excellent first half of Joint Venture, which has nice 11a moves for the first 4 bolts. Then climb up and clip the next bolt after the midpoint anchors, and step left on jugs to start Beast Food. Beast Food burls up a continuously overhanging headwall for about 15-20 feet of strenuous sidepulls, past 4 bolts to anchors at 85 feet.The moves are difficult and the feet are generally bad and hard to find.When you finally break out of the sidepulls, just under the anchors, you feel like you are out of the woods. However, you soon find that the holds are a little slopey and there are bad feet, so even the very last move before you clip the anchors is a bit tenuous. Lots of fun and great stone! This thing would be 3 stars if it were longer. Linking it with the first half of Joint Venture makes for a long and reasonably continuous line. Stays sunny until the afternoon.
May 20, 2003
- Fifth Destiny, The
Another classic link-up climbs the first half of 'Animal Instinct', then traverses left on the ledge and into the crux of 'Hands of Destiny' and on to the top. Again, long slings are quite useful.
Dec 6, 2014
- Fifth World, The
This climb is awesome with a very cool, bouldery crux. Beta alert: for the crux sequence, everyone I've seen climb this does a very big throw to a lieback pinch that is very bad until you position correctly. I've never been able to do this move that way. I hit the good, sloped, right hand crimp left hand on sloper. I then bump left hand to a hidden crimp undercling, right hand goes to a flat sidepull. Then I bring my left foot way high to a hellhook just under left hand. I then statically cross left hand to a crimp sidepull in the seam then switch your heel to a toe hook (this is the crux for me). Then move left hand to lieback pinch release toe hook and throw to the jug. For me, this route is solid 12c. I have a hard time even taking the slash grade, because the crux alone is V5 either way you do it. Also, don't underestimate the upper crack, it's just tricky enough to spit you off. Awesome climb, should get done more.
May 30, 2013
I was actually quite impressed with this route. I have always overlooked it given that 2 mega classics sit just to the right of this line. The crux is a bit weird and scrunched, and there is super fun pumpy 5.11 climbing after it. You don't need gear getting to the first clip. It's super chill, just climb with caution through the rotten rock. All in all, a decent route and one you should get on one day if you have done all of the other routes on the wall.
Feb 3, 2013
For the flash, maybe three plan trainings is OK. Clippings, clippings, then problems, then is easy?
Mar 20, 2012
That is high quality Sven-speak, not too much, not too little, just right.
Mar 20, 2012
In Sven Speak: this route is very tough for the fingers; I did not make flash. You must arrive to the fourth bolt at five meters with a preparation for crimping. It can be helpful also to prepare a long sling or double draw already on this bolt to facilitate clipping. Above here, you will find many meters of fun and pumping 6c (5.11) that is not so tough for the fingers after all.
Mar 19, 2012
Though it appears this route still sees few ascents, it has cleaned up quite nicely based on previous comments. The crux sequence is low on the route, making it feel more like a V4 boulder problem to a 5.11. Still, there are plenty of interesting, heads-up sequences throughout the pitch making for a truly worthy line. 5 stars!
Mar 29, 2010
Not sure I'd call it one of the best routes at the crag, however, it is worth a go. In its current state, it is rather unpleasant due to seemingly zero cleaning. Look out below or risk an endless showering of dirt, lichen, crumblies, and guano.....
Apr 28, 2003
I wouldn't call the rock quality on the lower section through the crux excellent. Maybe after a few dozen ascents it could be ok; for now it's quite flakey and dirty-- a far cry from that on 'Hands' and the rest of the popular routes at upper Animal World.
Apr 19, 2003
- Free Willie
Did this today for the first time. I admit that I did it with the bolts pre-clipped, but it still felt it was kinda soft for the grade. Compare this to Supernatural across the creek at Avalon at 10d. Supernatural is harder, just saying.... It is Bocan after all....
Sep 30, 2017
Very fun route. The crux for me was clipping the last bolt, and then that mantel was so awkward for me. I tried the "beached whale move", but that mantel is too small to make any progress upwards. I eventually fell and then started from directly below the last bolt and made the final move up to the last hold before the anchors. I thought it was going to be a crimp, but it was an OMG jug. I also did not see any blocks marked with an X.... Did it fall down or did I just miss it?
Jul 17, 2017
I disagree that this is nicely protected. Not an issue for me, but I'd imagine someone breaking into 11s this could get super heady. I'm surprised that for how much traffic this route gets that the ancient looking spinner bolts have not been replaced. Also, isn't it time to remove the "x" on the block. It's been yarded on by all sizes of people and has yet to move. Cruel joke to say the best hold on the route is off, just because.
Jun 30, 2017
I left a draw (Petzl Spirit) on the last bolt before the anchors on this - it got too dark and I had to lower because no headlamp :/ I left the draw on September 22, 2016 in the evening. I don't have a chance to get it today (Th 23rd). If you snag it, could you please send it to me? My cell is 914.364.6142 and my email is jcranston92@gmail.com. Thanks!
Sep 23, 2016
Awesome fun climbing. It totally goes on gear to! RPs and cams to 0.75. It's an exciting unprotected traverse until you clip the chains!
Feb 26, 2016
This makes for a sweet trad line for those wanting to not use the bolts. Offset cams are nice, a #3 Camalot protects the traverse and mantle up and left and the beginning of traverse.
Aug 1, 2015
Has anybody climbed the bulge in between Free Willie and Days of Future Past? It looks like a really cool sequence off of a foothold on Free Willie to more small crimps. I would love to hear if others have done this line!
Mar 21, 2015
Garrett Gillest on "Free Willie" age 8, not quite to the crux.
Aug 25, 2014
I am 6' tall and had no issue with the first reach, but it felt a little like cheating. I was able to move around the "X" block with no problem. On a less cool note, I did the "beached whale" style finish and then pulled on the anchor. Not my best moment, but I was pumped. Great climb!
Mar 16, 2014
Great route and incredibly sustained. The big flake marked with an x seems fairly stable (epoxy?); however, making those traverse moves without the use of it seems to make the finishing moves substantially more difficult (still very doable). Either way, a must do!
Jun 26, 2013
Bolt 5 right below the traverse right is looking pretty beat up.
Jun 21, 2013
Best warm-up in town!
Feb 14, 2013
Climbed FW yesterday. The anchors chains are getting worn, apparently from too many people TRing directly and lowering off.
Jun 8, 2012
Dropped one of my Evolv Talons at the base and left it last night (8/8/11). I went back to get it, but it was gone. If you found it, I'd really like it back. It was brand new! noah.gostout@gmail.com
Aug 9, 2011
This climb is super pumpy on lead. I have never done the mantel, I just put a heel up then THROW to a left hand jug, or if I can't make it, there is a good sloper there that I work with then pump. Stand up, and you're done. There is a cool little dyno in it as well, which totally makes the climb. I'm 5'6".
Jun 29, 2010
I did this route on gear today (looking for a little adventure, and definitely got it!). I was wondering if anyone else has done that before? PS. I'm not proposing to tear the bolts out, I definitely think they should be kept in, this route is too fun to exclude it from people without a rack.
Apr 8, 2010
Kevin, When I first TRed the line before placing the bolts, I did the "beached whale" move when the feet cut loose on the traverse. Hence the name.
Jul 14, 2008
I've always been confused as to why this is called "Free Willie". The movie to which the name refers was called "Free Willy", so am I missing some pun or euphemism besides the "beached whale" allusion? A minor quibble, I know. I've never used the block marked 'X'; is the route easier that way? Avoiding it and using the traverse isn't that hard but seems harder than 10. The difficult part about the traverse is that the feet are fairly nonexistent and you have to commit to the ledge and cut your feet loose. This is the best part of the route and this is the point during which the famed ECB--Euro Chalk Blow--should be executed. For those not familiar with the maneuver: after cutting the feet loose, hang casually with one arm, radiating insousiance, reach back and chalk up, grabbing a fistful of chalk, then blow through your fist to create a chalk cloud. At this point, for best effect, a photographer, preferably situated at the anchors of an adjacent climb, should snap a shot in pure 80's style. Wearing spandex improves the effect.
Jul 14, 2008
We replaced the crux (last) bolt today.
Apr 24, 2008
Thanks to Greg and the "Civil Service Retirement System" for the new bolt anchors. Short person beta for the getting the hold above the 4th bolt... left heel hook in the rectangular incut; right foot not far from that; left hand on good hold. Then stretch for the jug with right hand. Unless you're brave enough to just dyno for it (I'm not).
Oct 20, 2007
Thanks Greg! Anchor is bomber.
May 2, 2007
I fixed the anchor problem by adding 2 bolts with chains. Funding for this was provided by CSRS. CSRS is Civil Service Retirement System.
Oct 2, 2006
I have climbed this route many times doing the beached whale mantle. Today I was short on gas so instead of the mantle I continued the hand traverse to the right where I was able to stand up casually at the right end of the ledge. Highly recommended.
Jun 22, 2006
This route rocks, I'm 5'4" and had to dyno for the hold above the fourth clip, but I made it. It's a hell of a jump! I couldn't reach the chalked mark up left so I had to do a little crawling myself. The anchors left bolt is kinda weak (I wouldn't TR it from the anchors).
Jun 19, 2006
A 4 stars and very fun route with an exquisite mantle just before the top anchors. Awesome! It's a little discrimatory for those that are less than 5'8", at the 4th bolt half way up the climb before the corner break, the move is reachy in nature. Other than that, it's a must do at Animal World. Pure fun, I had a blast! Will do it again, that's for sure! :) Bruno
Jun 3, 2006
Awesome route!! The traverse to the anchors was sweet!!! I went to the right and still had to belly flop a bit but, saved the onsight!!
May 15, 2006
RE: Free Willie and the crux bolt: As of May 15, 2005, the hanger at the crux traverse, just under the platform before the anchor, is spinning on the bolt. The bolt looks as if it has wiggled out of the rock a bit. There's a narrow quicklink there now where it looks like somebody bailed out before the anchor. I fell off the platform moves and the hanger held, but this bolt/hangar should [probably] be replaced. Also: the infamous flake at this crux has been reinforced with epoxy (had time to look while gritting my teeth avoiding it). After the fall I gave the thing a test pull or two and it seems to be pretty solid. Still, better safe than sorry and there's a couple different ways to get up the thing, so might as well avoid it. Just my two cents. Thanks.
May 18, 2005
I managed to not have to mantel at all. Look up above the shelf thing and reach for a good, postive hold about 4 feet up, sort of on a mini arete. One of the best routes I've been on in the canyon, simply because of the steepness and bountiful positive holds.
Sep 11, 2004
Last time I did this route the block with the X held my 200 lbs. Going from the block then up right to the jug Tony mentions above, you do not have to mantle or belly flop (both of which I tried on my non-onsight). Pretty easy if you trust the block (or the bolts). You can rest in the mungy stuff off left before the crux ending, or stay to the right and make it more direct. Pretty cool way to air out yer ass for sure.
Aug 29, 2004
The anchor shuts on Free Willie are beginning to show signs of serious wear. I didn't have any quicklinks with me today -- but two are definitely needed before summer. PS. There's a new bolted route around the arete about 30' left of Free Willie and 20' right of Jaycene's Dance. It starts up the slightly overhanging left wall of a block-capped, left-facing corner. .9+ (?) past the first two bolts, .9- to the fourth bolt, .7 or so up the slab above (with a 25'-30' runout between the eighth and ninth bolts; small to mid-sized gear optional). 9 bolts total; 80'-90'. Judging by Rolofson's guidebook, the route is a few feet to the right of Familiar Strangers (unless Familiar Strangers has been retrobolted with a new start). [Eds. This is Unfamiliar Strangers.]
Mar 31, 2004
I'm a short guy, and had no trouble with any of the clips. I couldn't reach that nice jug up top as soon as I would have like though, leaving me to do a 'not quite beached whale' move in order to reach it.
Jul 24, 2003
I do the same thing, Tony. Further to the right, there is a better right foot; making the high step/heel hook with the left foot easier, and keeps you from stepping over the rope. The jug you speak of is good, and makes the move more elegant than the 'knee step-whale mantle'.
Jun 27, 2003
The mantle up top is easy to the right. I did this yesterday & saw the Xs on the block, so I skipped it and went further right, to the edge of the upper face, just below and to the right of the final anchors. To my surprise, and I mantled up there was a huge, brown, UNCHALKED jug to the right, which made the move somewhat trival if you have the armspan to reach it. I suspect this route derives its name from the "beached whale" move that people do rather than mantle. It's pretty funny to watch, and bound to happen to shorter climbers more often. As for the height-dependency, my 5'4" partner did it, but had to use funkier footwork at the reach to get it, but not dyno at all- look at the slopes be the cracs (sic) to the left and for a good black "eyebrow" sized positive edge just below. This adds a crux to the route, I am sure.
Jun 27, 2003
The rock below the first bolt is crumbly and breaks unexpectedly. I know because I broke off a substantial foothold and fell ten feet to the ground and then another fifteen feet into the talus. So, be careful out there! And, I would recommend always wearing a helmet, as they are rather stylish when tumbling through talus.
Aug 18, 2002
As of Saturday (7.20.02) someone chalked two "X" marks on the blocky hold that facilitates the mantle to the left (see previous comment). Although I couldn't make the block move, you may want to be sure to pull or push down on the block and not pull outward. Either that or work the mantle up and right to the anchors avoiding the block entirely.
Jul 22, 2002
An excellent route for those of us 5'8" and taller. The reach past the 4th clip may almost be a dyno for some, but once past here the last moves will flow together. You can cut right at the matle or reach high for the chalked hold straight above to the left, have fun. I give this route 3 stars.
Oct 4, 2001
- Geritol Generation
Really not much fun. Tons of lichen, loose rock, bushes are right in the way, subpar moves. Also this seemed much easier than 5.9. Not sure where the PG-13 comes from either. If this thing cleans up, it might be worthy of a practice run for someone beginning to trad climb.
Mar 13, 2016
Leo, you should not assign this route to me. I don't think I have ever climbed it. I and Kent Lugbill (Laurel & Hardy) met d'Antonio and Dan Brockway (Abbott & Costello) at the anchors while doing the routes simultaneously.
Jan 17, 2016
- Global Gorilla
Amazing route. Super long and varied, and although not that difficult, it leaves a big smile on your face when clipping the top anchor.
Nov 6, 2017
When linking the 3 pitches into 1, I only used 3 long (2ft) runners (two on the first pitch and one early on the second. I only skipped the second anchor bolts and clipped the rest of the bolts with regular draws...and I didn't have much rope drag on the finish.
Mar 9, 2017
Forgot some belay specs at the base of this climb. If anyone picked them up, can you please message me? Thanks!
Apr 22, 2016
As first ascentionist of this route (and the first to guidebook it), I find it pretty bizarre to see it described as a 3 pitch climb. We never attempted this route in multi-pitch fashion, only as one long pitch. In fact, if you were to belay atop pitch 1, it would create a point of aid to rest. I can't imagine falling off with your belayer right below you to crash into. I describe each stage as lower (.11b), middle (12c) & upper (.12b/c). I established the middle stage in 1996 & originally called it 12b. Later I realized it was much harder (.12c) than other .12b sport climbs in the canyon including ones at this crag. There is no way in hell you can call Kudjo Tranquillizer & Global Gorilla (middle) the same grade. Later in 1996, Rick Leitner bolted the upper stage. I added the last bolt on our first attempt. It wasn't until 1997, I redpointed the entire climb. You can lower from the climb's top back to the end of the middle (pitch 2) at the shared anchor with Animal Magnetism. Then lower to the ground with a 70 meter rope. It also bothers me how some people who submit climbs to the website can't be bothered to give the date or year the climb was established.
May 1, 2015
An 80m rope came up about 15 ft. short when linking all 3 pitches. It can be done with a little down-climbing. After cleaning all draws and lowering off of the anchor, it was just about long enough. 80m 9.4 rope.
Apr 10, 2014
This route has been on my tick list to do in one monster lead for quite sometime. Just sent the entire 160 foot pitch in a single lead. I skipped a boat load of bolts on pitch one and two and used some 4 foot runners in quite a few places and had a nearly perfect rope line with little drag. Pitch 3 is full on. Very tricky. Overall, a great freaking route. Far from the hardest route I have done but definitely one of my prouder sends. For anyone who does it in one lead, I gaurantee it will bring a smile to your face when your clipping chains on this one! Get after it!!!!
May 9, 2013
We did the full route as one pitch and were pretty certain an 80m line would get you down from the top (though didn't confirm this). Otherwise lower and re-thread at the top of p2... a 70m will take you down from there.
Feb 6, 2013
I found the first pitch pretty good but not my favorite at BoCan. 2 stars, maybe 3. Not sure what the fuss is about. Felt 5.11...looking forward to the full send one day though.
Jul 2, 2008
Wow! The first pitch alone on this climb is one of the best 11s in the canyon, but linking all 3 pitches into a 160' pitch makes it absolutely amazing. I just wanted to post a current comment that says that the "3rd pitch" seemed completely solid to me. Don't be afraid of loose flakes, I didn't find any. I also have to agree that the "3rd pitch" is the crux of the climb. Even with a great rest before it, the moves feel way harder than the "2nd pitch crux". I realize it's all relative, but I would call it 11b, 12b, 12c. Every "pitch" of this climb is 2-3 stars, but, as a whole, it is unquestionably 3 stars!
Sep 12, 2007
I got on the 3rd pitch of this the other day, and I would have to say that it is considerably more difficult than the supposed route crux on the 2nd pitch. However, there is a fairly sizeable scar between the 1st and 2nd bolts which may have once been a fairly crucial hold. The pitch was also unchalked, licheny, and somewhat flakey making me wonder how many ascents its seen. Watch out below if someone is on this pitch: I dislodged a credit card sized flake which nearly hit a party below. Compared to the other pitches at Upper Animal World, I would give this pitch 1 star for the climbing and 3 stars for position. I would rate the three pitches of Global Gorilla 11b, 12a/b, and 12c.
Jun 22, 2005
Clarification: in the photos I just posted, when I say "crux", I'm talking about doing just the first pitch as an 11b climb.
Dec 15, 2004
For the problem of falling on your belayer, it's best to do the first two pitches as one. Expect huge rope drag on the 2nd pitch though. We got around this by TR'ing the first pitch, then launched into the 2nd pitch with the belayer still on the ground.
Jun 1, 2004
P2 seems a bit contrived -- a lot easier (12b) if you head hard right above the belay - staying left is 12c and you risk falling on top of your belayer. P3 is quality. Seems the vast majority do P1 and rap....
May 27, 2004
I did the second pitch of this recently and really didn't think it was any part of 12c. I would say 12b, 2 stars. The first pitch, however, is my favorite mid-11 sport pitch in the Canyon, fully 3 stars.
May 27, 2004
Only led the first pitch, but the description is right...wonderful pitch with different types of moves all the way up. From the left side of the arete, clip the bolt before committing to the move out onto the arete. A sunny day, good friends and climbing like this are what it's all about.
Mar 16, 2003
No need for double 60s to get down. As it is mentioned above, there are three bolt/chain anchors on the way up over a 160' piece of rock. One could do it with a single 50m, and do three raps off. With a single 60m, you can link from the ground to the top, then thread the chains and lower to the cushy second belay ledge (all the while your second is still on the ground). Then you can either belay them up, or just pull your rope and rap (two raps to ground) and give them a go on lead.
Aug 29, 2002
- Gull Whackers
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best!
Nov 15, 2017
I soloed this route yesterday and did not find hardly any loose blocks on it at all. Near the top there was a breadloaf-sized loose block that was sitting on a ledge that was easily avoidable. I didn't throw it off, because I was afraid it'd go to the road. There was some blocks that looked loose at the very top, but I tested all the ones I used thoroughly as I was soloing, and none of them moved. Also doing the route in late fall/early winter was good, because all the plants lost their leaves and were easier to navigate around. Overall I liked the route.
Nov 12, 2017
Got about 1/2 of the way up this route last Sunday and ended up downclimbing because of all the loose blocks. There are more than a few toaster-sized blocks that will be easily knocked loose if pulled on or used as a foot-hold. It would be irresponsible to do this route if there are other parties on the ground. Make sure your belayer is attentive and has a helmet on.
Aug 15, 2017
I agree that this climb is of poor quality. Before bolts (June 19, 1980, to be exact), I led Cathy Mallow up this dihedral/gully. (Does this put me in the pantheon containing the likes of the Stettners, Ellingwood, or Ormes?) I didn't report our ascent because someone could have climbed it before we did, and I didn't report anything in those days. Instead, I kept a journal and occasionally took photos.
Jan 3, 2012
The crack was full of bird crap. Bushes at the top of the climb are annoying. Lots of loose blocks. Fun to use my hexcentrics, otherwise a bore.
Apr 18, 2008
- Hands of Destiny
This route has given me great satisfaction for the hangdog. To prepare, I made hangdog ascents of many other Boulder Canyon 5.12s: Tell Tale Heart, Vasodilator, and Buddha Belly, but Hands of Destiny gave me the most satisfaction, because it allowed me to send the crux before providing the desired hangdog. But seriously, awesome route. What's the deal with the fixed copperheads on this route? There is one right at the crux with a broken cable and sharp frayed ends sticking out just above one of the crux holds. I guess they are being left for historical purposes?
Aug 31, 2017
Jon, I would assume Bob did it ground-up without too much fuss. When he did the FA in 1987, he was arguably one of the strongest and most prolific climbers in the U.S.
Aug 27, 2017
Question about Bob's FA - I know it was lead on gear, but was it in a ground-up style?
Aug 25, 2017
This is one of the premier lines of Boulder Canyon. A true face climbing granite testpiece. I've climbed a lot in Bo Can, and I feel like Hands of Destiny is what it's all about for Bo Can rock climbing.
Feb 8, 2017
If you were climbing this route on the evening of 4/11 and left something behind, I grabbed it. Send me a message letting me know what it is that you lost, and I can get it back to you.
Apr 15, 2015
This climb is rad! Tried it a year ago and could never figure out the crux despite sending many other climbs of higher difficulty. Just returned and figured out the crux sequence in a few minutes. Pretty thin and devious face climbing with a techy crux. My advice to everyone is to do this climb when it's cloudy and cold. This wall bakes in the sun all day and is extremely hard to do when it's greasy. The crux won't even feel possible if it's hot, perhaps why I could never send it in the past. Great route, though! Don't cheat yourself by stepping out right and clipping the chains of Animal Instinct like some people do. The climb ain't over til the fat lady sings! The slab up top demands your attention. Do it and smile the whole way, the face climbing on this route is some of the best I have been on. Brilliant!
Nov 10, 2012
Great position, solid rock, and varied movement with technical and mental cruxes. Don't cut yourself short by traversing right to the Animal Instinct chains, it's not over! Some rope work would need to be done to manage the rope drag if trying to link all the way to the top but you get pretty good value after finishing P1. Classic Boulder Canyon sport climbing!
Dec 6, 2010
Onsight and hanging the draws it felt closer to 12d to me (I can't really climb slabs anymore - too much time in the gym - so I had to try a little). Though not very hard, it's sort of challenging to put the puzzle together onsight. The final slab is desperate: no chalk, licheny, and I had to use my feet - thought I might blow it there! A little scary getting to the 1st bolt too...good route for BoCan.
May 5, 2008
Hands of Destiny was rated 13 a/b in Rossiter's Boulder Climbs North. He lists the gear then as small stoppers, TCUs plus four pins. Just maybe it felt a little harder placing gear than it does now with all them safety clips.
May 3, 2004
I think the Rolofson rating of "12c/d" is about right on. The "c/d" for the height dependent nature of several moves in the crux section. Don't think you have this climb in the bag if you get through the lower section... the top seam/slab is tricky and hard.
Mar 17, 2004
Great line, but I'm amazed that three different guidebook authors grade it so dramatically different. Hate to say it, but this is much closer to 12c than 13a.
Nov 16, 2003
I agree with Fred Knapp. There is no way this route is 13a. No move is harder than 12c, and it's not at all sustained. It is a very good route though.
Oct 13, 2003
Hands of Destiny is still intact, perhaps the broken hold above the third bolt is on the new route to the left of Hands of Destiny. This new route is still "shedding".
Jul 2, 2003
Maybe I really suck, but I think a hold has been broken. I was up there recently and it was really hard to clip the third bolt. Anyone got any info? I could see a scar where a longish hold might have been to the right of the third bolt. The only hold there is now is a pinch above the bolt.
Dec 1, 2002
Here is some additional info that some may find useful (regarding the route) that has nothing to do with Sven. A 60m (200ft) rope will allow one to lower off or rappel off the 1st pitch anchors. A 50m rope won't make it to the ground. However, it would be possible to lower/rap to the anchors of Animal Instinct on the right and rap off those rings with a 50m cord. The first bolt is about 25 ft off the ground. One can protect the easy 5.8 loose block intro without additional rope drag with a cam (1.5-2 Friend) and a long (1.5 shoulder length) sling. Although this is not necessary, I prefer to minimize the risks when possible. After the blocky start, this route is very well bolted with easy clips. There is also some additional fixed gear that is helpful when working the moves or just hanging the draws. Hands of Destiny is excellent, with great 5.11 climbing, despite the crimp fest crux.
Sep 3, 2002
13a? Dream on. This is a great route. But let's be real--it's probably 12c in bad conditions. --Fred Knapp
Jul 15, 2002
Bob D"Antonio makes an important point here and one that came up for me while climbing in California during the last three weeks. We ran into a visiting gang of hardcore Brits who were very much aware of climbingboulder.com and spent some time contrasting it with the web site 8a.nu. What I took away from their comments was the degree to which what we write here becomes visible throughout the world. In other words our comments have become very public. For that reason, I would suggest that if you write it here comments and route descriptions should contain information and ideas that you are willing to have placed in the public view. Think twice before adding spray, sniping, and vituperative dissing of other climbers.
Oct 17, 2001
Dear Sven, I think what American climbers got annoyed with is the selective nature of routes that you profiled, which all appeared to be flashes. Perhaps if you had added routes which you had more trouble on or were able to supply more helpful information than "quite fine bolting" or "short crux", people would not take offense. It's not that American climbers hate climbing, they hate what is called "spray," the gratuitous offering of info designed to make the sprayer look good. Describing a route has nothing to do with whether you flashed it and that news is of no help to someone who wants to know about the climb. It has nothing to do with where "there is more enjoyment of the climbing sport" but a lot to do with perceived attitudes and how you clearly wanted to talk only about flashed routes. I for one would be more impressed with descriptions of harder routes which require larger commitments of time and energy to succeed on. All that said, flashing Rainbow Wall is impressive. Best wishes, A. Coward
Oct 17, 2001
The comment next to last was not my own. Perhaps it has been unwise to share my experience on this site. Many of the climbers in the US are very hostile to other climbers (not just myself!). Soon I am to return to my job in Bergen where I teach skiing, and I will remember my good experiences climbing in Boulder. I think it is sad that so many climbers in the US do not so much enjoy the climbing as they enjoy feeling good to be better than other climbers. In Europe, where we have very many good climbers, there is more enjoyment of the climbing sport so this has been a big surprise for me in US. Perhaps more of my US friends will learn to take pleasure in the climbing sport, then everyone will feel welcome here.
Oct 16, 2001
So to be for the flashing most ready, climb if you can the 4 routes of the most similarity. And on the route not falling the moves is best. So for Vogue flash I do 4 14a flash after 4 13d flash redpoints!
Oct 15, 2001
This plan is nothing. It just how my friends in Bergen and I train for the flash. For many years we feel that the flash is the best way to show that we are improved in climbing. For us to flash this takes a plan and a strategy that we call 4-plan because it is based on 4 routes taken 4 times. For illustration I can use Hands of Destiny. We pick this route to be the goal for the flash because it is a quite nice route. We train by climbing 4 routes of nearly the same level and on the same type of climbing rocks. These are not tried to flash but only to red point. When 4 are done we try the flash route where the goal is now to flash. If we do this 4 times then we go to the next higher level. If we fail in the flash then it is necessary to try again on a new choice. We feel that if we must change the climbing rocks, then it is likely to need to begin the 4-plan from the start. All of this is only so that we may focus the training and not to drift too much from the goal to improve. Some of my climbing partners can make the red point at the 5.14 grade but this needs many tries and many failures and we think that to flash is maybe a improved way to measure our success. In the last week after a long trip to Utah and to Rifle in Colorado we came back to Boulder for another training but I think many climbers in US do not want to hear this.
Sep 25, 2001
Good job. What's the 4-plan?
Sep 25, 2001
My thanks to Alan for his kind words. My goal has not been to "spray" for my own glory but to show how hard we must work to succeed with these very nice climbs that we have done in Colorado. It is pleasing to succeed on these very excellent climbing routes.
Aug 30, 2001
I see my American colleagues are fast to anger. Perhaps you should not have so much anger for my success as you should ask how much I must fail to reach my goal! With my friends in Bergen we train very hard to make the flash because we feel it is the best measurement for our climbing skill. So please do not take the offense for my success, I have had to climb so many routes for each one.
Aug 29, 2001
Yeah, Sven, at least take a clue from the rest of us and make a nominal effort to disguise your spray as meaningful advice about the climb!
Aug 29, 2001
Hey Sven, this isn't a forum for you to spray about every flash you do. We know you are a great climber, and Boulder standards are low. No need to keep telling us about it.
Aug 28, 2001
This route, The Hands of Destiny, has given me a great satisfaction for the flash. We spent one week climbing in Boulder Canyon in order to prepare for this climb. Hands of Destiny was to be a good target for the preparation because it is of very good design. One can approach the difficult section with not very hard moves and so be rested before starting this part. After only 3 meters the difficulty comes again to only 5.11 (6c+) and does not again become more difficult. Our preparation allowed us to try many good climbs in Boulder Canyon, and many of these were very excellent routes. For my climbing, I feel that Hands of Destiny was the most special route of all. Our 4-plan was good, our preparation was well, The Hands of Destiny was a very excellent and nice climbing route.
Aug 28, 2001
- Hope and Pray
- Is It Ready Yet...Moe
Very good route, deserves more than 2 stars. Below the first bolt and coming out of the upper corner are the cruxes, IMHO. It is easy to be led astray by chalked "sucker" holds in that corner (which happened to me). Even so, this is harder, more techy, and more balancy/insecure compared to Unfamiliar Strangers (.9+) to its left and The Tower over at Avalon.
Sep 3, 2017
Why edit the original comments so it looks like I'm having a conversation with myself. Leave the original and now deleted "you went the wrong way!" comment in there.
Oct 25, 2015
Moving low on to arête by bolt #1 is hard (as in photo in guide), but there are also several interesting moves higher up.
Oct 10, 2015
Don't know what you mean about the "hidden" fifth bolt - it was right where it should be. Thought this was a very fun route. Moving out of the corner at the top was a nice way to finish.
Nov 18, 2013
Just barely a one star route. Luckily there is just enough ok climbing to make up for the contrived climbing, sections of low quality rock, and the lame, hidden 5th bolt.
Oct 8, 2012
This route is pretty cool IMHO. I'm surprised to see it on here as 10a though, given that the BoCan guidebook by D'antonio calls it 9+, and I'd agree with that. I started up the crack and thought it was fun. Definitely a little tricky in spots, but I wouldn't say the climbing is 10a. Kind of creepy on lead (especially because from the 5th or so bolt, you can't see the next bolt), but if you trust your technique, you should be solid. Creepiest part is coming out onto the face near the anchors, but the hands and feet are all there. I'd recommend doing it if you're in the area.
Jun 12, 2012
Climbed it today and loved it! The route does look kind of funky from the ground. It has cleaned up very nicely. Clip the first bolt and move out left to the arete. IMHO the crux comes after the very long reach (I'm 5'9") to clip the 5th bolt. The thin finger holds push me to give it 10a. The moves out left at the top are spacey and cool. Looks like a harder variation going straight up and over the corner. Thanks, Greg.
May 18, 2012
If you read the first comment (done 1 month after the first ascent), Paul climbed the corner "though a bush, dirt, and loose rock wasn't all that inspiring". When this route was first done in Feb. 2008, the crack was full of water and ice, hence we bolted the clean dry rock on the left. We came back in April and cleaned the corner to produce the trad route "We Don't Do Crack". The moves following the bolts left are technically more difficult. You can climb the route any way you want.
Jul 18, 2011
Seems awfully contrived (and wrongheaded) to move OUT of the dihedral/crack at the first bolt, just to rejoin it ten feet later before sending the upper sections. Leave it to Boulder.... At any rate, as of summer, 2011, the crack start seemed clean 'n' friendly enough. And my six-foot frame was easily able to clip all bolts without having to use any gear. Good, fun warm-up regardless of how you mash these potatoes....
Jul 18, 2011
Fun moves coming around the two corners.
Oct 4, 2009
If it has rained recently, this route will be soaked.
May 29, 2008
A pleasant warm up with a cool move left around the arete at the 7th bolt.
May 20, 2008
Hey I was just asking originally so I could post the photo of the start for everyone...found the description a bit vague and it isn't in any guidebook yet. I wanted to make sure if I was commenting at all I was on the correct route in the database. I was asking for the sake of the next person looking at the site for a nice moderate to climb at Animal World. IMHO, I'd say this route has two starts...one up a dirty crack...and one a somewhat contrived (but perhaps fun nonetheless) up a face past two bolts to avoid the dirty crack. They both end up at the third bolt. The natural line is up the crack, but since you have bolts to protect the moves out left people can try that also. There is no "wrong way" upwards. The crack start would also be fun cleaned up a bit.
Mar 21, 2008
Wrong way??? Well someone forgot to put tape on the holds, so I had to be inventive. I think you could climb either the face or crack as they are only a few feet apart at the start. Though if you climb the crack you'll want to protect it with gear - the bolts are too far out left to be that useful for protection (until the third bolt). The crack seemed pretty obvious to me and doing it that way felt 5.9+ overall. Perhaps just 5.9 once the lichen wears away. I didn't do the bolted face start so can't comment on its grade. Still some loose rock on this one, so keep your belayer aware.
Mar 20, 2008
Does this route start on a black face, at a dihedral that could be lead on gear? I placed cams past the first two bolts - though a bush, dirt, and loose rock wasn't all that inspiring (I'm not posting some anti-bolt tirade just clarifying location). The upper section was pretty lichen covered, but with more traffic would be a nice addition to the crag - since there aren't many mid range climbs here.
Mar 20, 2008
- Isn't Life Strange
Fun route with varied movement, I didn't know the grade when I led this, but I would say it's in the 10+ or .11- range, the roof is great fun and all there!
Apr 21, 2013
This is a fun route. The crux roofs remind me of the Gunks.
Jan 10, 2010
If you have a 60m follow the above advice, but tie knots in the rope to be sure. You can't reach the big dead pine ledge with a 60 at all. We tied stopper knots in our 60m rope and the climber just untied 10' up and downclimbed a bit, so we could hang out at the big dead pine ledge. Awesome climbing.
Nov 21, 2009
Did this route today, lots of fun. The new BC guidebook, and this page for that matter, say you need a 70 meter rope and 14 draws. Neither are true. Once you are on the upper ledge, climb another 10 feet to belay at the base of the climb (great belay seat). You can easily skip the first bolt, then it's only 11 draws to second set of anchors which are about 90 feet from the ground. Highly recommended, needs more traffic to help it finish cleaning up a bit.
Sep 29, 2009
Pretty fun. The place where the block came off was obvious, and the climbing into the overhang has changed, but it isn't any harder. Yes, the "stump" that is left is semi-detatched and probably will come off too someday after fatigue and freeze/thaw cycles.
May 21, 2009
I only did the first pitch of this route, and found it to be sustained 5.10d. The second pitch we did not do because Maciej pulled off a large chalky block, just by barely touching it. He lowered from the first bolt after the first belay. There was definitely more loose stuff up there. Normal spring climbing stuff, there is a good chance this route has changed a bit with the block that Maciej pulled down.
Apr 30, 2009
Thank you, Bob, Vaino and Greg. Isn't life Strange is a fantastic climb, 11+ pure fun. Climbing both pitches as one is sustained joy.
Oct 26, 2008
Done as a single pitch, this will become the best mid-range 5.11 sport route in Boulder Canyon once the lichen on the upper headwall cleans up a bit. Great position and thought-provoking movement. Out of curiosity, I used the advanced search features of MP to list all the 5.11 sport routes in Boulder Canyon sorted by stars. Nothing on that list is better than this climb. Animal Magnetism probably has a better finale, but over the entire length this route delivers better moves. Of the 3 separate roof tiers, I think the 1st is hardest and the 3rd is the easiest. The upper headwall looks so blank from the ground, but it has a surprising rail on it that makes the upper headwall moves some of the easier moves on the route. Use a long runner on the 1st bolt, the midway anchor and the first bolt after that and your rope will run nice and straight. Great find Bob, Vaino, Greg and Dan! Thanks for the effort too.
Jul 11, 2008
Thanks Bob D, Vaino and Greg. This route is awesome, one of the best at Animal World. 11c, maybe d, I will go with 11+. It still has a bit of lichen on the upper section but will clean up quickly.
Jun 2, 2008
The first pitch is tricky and sustained from the 3rd bolt to the anchors -- maybe .10c but it felt more like .10d to me. The wild second pitch is probably .11c onsight (easier once you've worked out the beta). Another excellent addition to Boulder Canyon. As Chris said, there's a nasty 20"x20" death block to the right of the first bolt on the second pitch. Although it looks like a good stemming foothold, it's completely detached from the wall. Be careful. A 70m rope isn't mandatory but makes it easy to lower to the dead tree instead of downclimbing from the ledge at the start of the climb. PS. In light of Bob D's comment, I deleted my remark about Dana's .10c rating. Sorry about that.
May 20, 2008
Great exposure, varied moves, well-protected - overall an excellent route. Thank you Bob, Vaino and Greg.
Apr 24, 2008
Cool route! Upper section is better than the lower. Watch the death block after the first bolt past the lower anchors.
Apr 12, 2008
Nice work Bob, maybe head up there Sat. a.m? How's the crack on the left side of face, looks hard, 5.10?
Mar 12, 2008
Kevin, We were at the top starting pitch 2 a few days ago but had a battery problem. It will be done soon.
Mar 3, 2008
Nice route, Bob. Hard to read, one of the better for the grade in Bo Can., how's about a pitch 2?
Mar 3, 2008
- Joint Venture
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best!
Nov 15, 2017
Lost my watch at the bottom of this climb. If you find it, please call! Thanks 916-201-9475 Eric
Oct 7, 2017
Really enjoyed this climb, great movement and interesting holds. The bottom section felt .11- to me moving to the arete around the 4th bolt, and .10ish moving to the arete around the 2nd bolt. The upper section was a fun end to the climb, and the moves before the anchor are in the 10+ range.
Jul 17, 2017
Maybe I was having a rough day, but this route caught me ofFguard. I think I missed a clutch hold or something, 'cause I had to so some high-brow fandangaling on nail-y stubs to get up the bottom section. I hope next time I climb it, I'll have a "a-ha!" moment followed by a face-palm.
Jun 28, 2012
We pulled a tiny post-thaw flake off just above the second bolt, but it didn't seem to impact the climb. From above the first bolt to the area just left and under the roof, this climb requires balance and technique more than it requires strength or crimping. Don't be scared off by the consensus grade. If you climb in the 10s regularly, you'll be able to do this climb.
Mar 16, 2012
A bit inconsistent, but good times, nonetheless. I didn't find the supposed 5.10 moves around the cruxes, but the 11a move down low and the one up top are each just one-move wonders. One thing: I don't understand climbing just the first "pitch," which is only about as tall as Dennis Rodman. Unless you have an old-school, 37ft rope, you should probably think about taking the WHOLE line, young leader. The second "pitch" is wholly different, but just as good, with a little spice if'n you don't have monkey arms. And the overhanging top out jug fest is about as fun a finish as you can ask for. And forget the cams--you don't need them for the cruxes. While JV may not be littered with bolts like the rest of Boulder Canyon, it still protects plenty well where you need it with the clips at hand.
Apr 13, 2010
Thanks for the beta Joshua!
Jul 23, 2009
Re: Robb M. Blockhead .12+.
Jul 15, 2009
If only there were about 100' of the lower face! Great route anyway.
May 7, 2009
The second pitch if staying in the crack is pretty stout. I believe it is said to be 5.12. It felt pretty darn hard. You can easily finish the route or choose to just climb the arete skipping this crack. Sure is fun climbing though. Really fun as one long pitch no matter how you finish it.
Feb 22, 2009
Does anyone know anything about the new bolt line that leaves Joint Venture and goes directly over the roof?
Aug 31, 2008
IMHO, the lower section goes at 5.10+ for those interested. Watch your rope around the arete and you might want one smallish cam to get to the anchors. Green or Yellow alien.
Jul 2, 2008
ALERT: If you climb this to the bolted anchor and then climb 'Cannabis Sportiva', there is a big, TV-sized, loose block about 6' left of the anchor sitting on a ledge. It looks like a great hand jam behind it to make the traverse but - DO NOT PULL ON IT!! We would have thrown this to the ground, but were worried about it eventually rolling to the highway. It certainly needs to come off though.
May 8, 2008
Fun route with a thin start and some good steming on the upper "pitch". Easily done as one pitch with a 60m and minor rope drag. Nice climb.
Nov 6, 2006
If you're thinking of linking up the first part of Joint Venture with Cannabis Sportiva, don't! It's certainly possibly with long slings, but it's not worth the risk to your belayer. There are some gnarly loose blocks in between the two routes that you must traverse across.
Jul 18, 2003
This route can be climbed as an easy 5.10 or maybe an 5.11a, depending upon the line taken. On the upper section, where it follows the arete it is also possible to set right into the dihedral there (still within clipping reach) and stem/palm to the right to pass the crux on the arete.
Jun 27, 2003
I listed Dan's route on this website as "Beast Food" which is what Rolofson's book calls it. I also gave it the 12b rating that Rolofson listed. And as a point of clarification, I think this beta photo is a bit misleading - the anchors shown here are actually the anchors for Beast Food.You have to stay right to get to the anchors of Joint Venture. All that aside, Joint Venture is a really fun line on nice stone!
May 6, 2003
I seem forever to be in the role of guide book writer. If I go to Manhattan, people stop me and ask how to get to the Trade Towers. As for Joint Venture, the name is a play on Cannabis Sportiva, and on the fact that I did this originally with Leah Macaluso. Leah, being rather short, hated the upper arete. She was my massage therapist as well as a lovely climbing partner. Dan Hare had nothing to do with this route. Leah and I started in the narrow dihedral in the left of the photo via gear, then climbed the arete to the right of Dan''s route. Do you people read guides books or just make this stuff up? Dan's route climbs the steep face just right of the initial arete then takes the upper dihedral just left of the upper arete of Joint Venture. Dan's route is called Feeding the Beast and is rated overall, 12a. The name may be a reference to Dan's insatiable lust for setting new routes.
May 5, 2003
This is a great climb, but the fledgling (flailing?) 5.11 leader might want to bring at least one mid size nut or a #3 or 4 Metolius size for the run from bolts 6 to 7 (counting clipping the lower anchor as a 'bolt'). I found it a little much for my taste, as the climbing got harder there, and the reach was a bit much for my 5'6" self. Otherwise a great route with fun moves below and again up higher.
Jun 12, 2001
- Krakatoa
- Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello
I'd say that if you do this route straight up, it's probably 9+ and a little pumpy...for Bocan....
Sep 30, 2017
It has cleaned up nicely at this point... definitely trickier than it looks. The 2nd edition of the D'Antonio guidebook has the wrong bolt count (5), I counted eight.
May 30, 2017
That traverse that AndBan mentions is the most amazing piece of this route. It's really unusual, required a lot of thought to get through.
Sep 9, 2013
Surprising that no one is mentioning the fun/strange traverse right about halfway up.
Sep 8, 2013
Thanks.
May 26, 2013
I added 2 bolts at the start of this route today. The first to protect getting onto the ledge, and the second to protect shorter climbers getting to the original first bolt.
Aug 9, 2011
Poorly bolted. There is still lots of loose rock prior to 1st. bolt. My partner cratered when a well chalked up hold pulled just as he was pulling onto the big ledge below 1st bolt. He got a nice cut on his head and cheek and bruised his heel bone but no other damage done. To his credit, he led the route about 15 min. later. The climbing itself was pretty good for as long as it lasted, which wasn't long.
Jul 26, 2011
Much harder than it looks from the ground.
Jun 12, 2011
This route is way more tricky than it looks from the ground.
Jun 12, 2011
Maybe not the best route for someone who's limit is around 5.9 to lead. You probably could sink some gear in before the first bolt and after the third there is a crack to the right that would take some finger/mid sized pieces....though it looked a bit like a flake.
Nov 21, 2009
I think it's a nice route - yes, some dirt on ledges but still interesting moves and fun crux. Agree with comments about first bolt. Would be a sketchy clip for the short leader.
Jul 3, 2008
Slimy when wet, dirty when not. Yucky.
May 18, 2008
A bolt was added to eliminate the runout to the anchors. It was certainly out of character with the climbing.
Apr 29, 2008
I agree with Aeon that clipping the first bolt is a bit runout, as well as it being a long way from the 4th bolt to the anchors. A decent warm-up for the routes above, which are amazing!
Apr 24, 2008
This route is pretty dirty right now. The tricky crux at the third bolt may get easier after a few laps and will certainly become more enjoyable. I wouldn't have minded a bolt somewhere before the first one as stepping up to clip it is awkward and could be dangerous for a short leader hanging draws.
Apr 12, 2008
- Lazy Day
Thanks, Greg!!!
Sep 9, 2015
I checked all the bolts today. One anchor bolt was loose, and one of the quicklinks was loose. The second bolt was only loose, nothing cracked, and the rock is fine. I tightened all the bolts and the quicklinks. The mussy hooks show very little wear.
Jul 31, 2015
Second bolt needs replacing, it's a cracked spinner in some pretty manky rock.
Jul 5, 2015
The crux maybe a 10- move, but then after that it's easy climbing (5.7-5.8) to the top. Not a very long climb either. Worth doing nonetheless.
Sep 8, 2013
The one move at the third bolt is overhung and makes this route harder than the one left of it, so I would put this at 10a. Stay on the small holds right instead of using that white, chalked-up jive hold up and left.
Aug 26, 2012
This route was pretty stiff for 5.9. Although short, the overhung crux packs a punch. A must do on the circuit.
May 18, 2012
Big moves if you're under 6 feet. Pretty fun. I was thrown off a little by the idea of using the holds underneath the bush growing after bolt 3, however.
Sep 5, 2009
Big moves if you are short. But a really fun route.
Sep 29, 2008
This route has those big (Massey??) hooks for anchors. The third bolt is difficult/crimpy.
Jun 2, 2008
- Lovely to See You
There are 3 ways to make a hard route: 1) Technical moves 2) Physical difficulty 3) Bad holds This route had a little of each all in the initial section. After tonight, it's got more of the former and less of the latter. It took me 3 tries to get up this thing. To note: The undecling below the roof is now half gone. The crimp/sidepull below and left of the 2nd bolt is now 1/2 gone. (The one Vaino's foot is on in the picture.)
May 10, 2008
This route (as originally done) follows the wide crack straight up. The bolts left are Nice To Be Here (done as an easier start) which joins Lovely To See You higher up. But it may make more sense (less gear/harder climbing) to move left and follow the bolts. If you can climb 5.12c, you probably don't need the purple Camalot at the top before the anchors.
Apr 12, 2008
After you pull the roof, does this route move out left to link with the line of bolts, or does it continue straight up through the right facing flakes?
Apr 12, 2008
- Melancholy Man
So this route is hard, I think the moves to pull the roof are easily V3/V4. I'd give this 11+, and I'm usually a sandbagger. The upper section is .10a/b, and is still fun, but agreed there is suspect rock. Tread lightly and smart. First bolt is placed perfectly, no issues clipping this safely without a stick clip, and I'm 5'9".
Sep 26, 2016
Maybe I'm just feeble, but I think the move over the roof is pretty darn hard unless you have at least a 68 inch wingspan. Which I don't.
Jul 1, 2016
All the holds at the roof are solid now, the upper face has some good movement, and I did not find a loose flake.
May 23, 2016
Looks like a crucial foot hold broke off at the start making the route much harder.
Sep 12, 2015
Huge pieces fell of right at the start for me and then super choss pile halfway up. You can avoid the mess in the middle, but look for the nastiness. Not really recommending it.
May 11, 2012
I added a first bolt today, so a stick clip is not necessary. So the bolt count is now 10.
Aug 9, 2011
If you take a bit of falls or hangs at the roof, where the crux is, pay attention to your draw. When you hang, if the gate is facing left, it will likely open the biner for you. When you hang, repeatedly, the rock will likely shred your sling. My buddy's draw was shredded almost all the way through.
May 1, 2010
I'm going to contradict Matt K. The grapefruit sized hold I yarded off and threw at his head (thanks Matt for still catching me) was from the alternate L hand start to this route, Tuesday Afternoon.
Mar 13, 2010
I think this is a good route, and while it may not be 5.11 for the duration, the top section still ticks in at 5.10c/d. I think the first bolt is way too high off the ground, so consider a stick clip. The problem is that the while the first bolt is just out of reach of clipping from the ground, the fall from this ledge would likely send you to the hospital. Would the FA agree to the addition of a bolt lower down to avoid this possibility?
Apr 30, 2009
Buddy of mine snapped a large hold off of the lip of the roof. I dodged that falling bastard then decided to hop on the route. I had not been on the route prior to the breakage, but seems it could have gotten a bit harder. The route is fairly loose overall and I would not be surprised to see another get buggered out by unintentionally removing more rock. Remains still, a one-ish move wonder.
Apr 12, 2009
This climb is a one move wonder. Once over the roof continue up the bolts for a 5.9 grade. The rock above the roof is flaky and the rock above that is a bit dirty.
Jan 31, 2009
I thought that the first clip was a little high to get a draw on from a good stance. The feet were shedding on me, which made for some nervousness, given that a fall before the first clip is a 'non-option.' The grade felt about right, probably 11-, but I missed the mono/duo pocket, as it was pointed out to me later. Others said it was easier with that (11a?). It could be good climbing once it cleans up more.
May 1, 2008
After the roof this line continues up a short section of bad rock, and has a very large and very suspect flake on it. I avoided it completely after hear a discomforting echo ringing through the bowels of this block. Use it cautiously if you must.
Apr 12, 2008
- New Beginnings
Funny that nobody mentions that the first bolt is a bit high off the ground and the climbing to it is nontrivial. If you don't want to blow it and tumble another 50' down to the base of Global Gorilla, I recommend (much to my dismay) that one consider stick clipping the first bolt. The route is a good alternative to Global Gorilla if somebody is on it. Be careful if you blow it clipping the anchors; potential ankle sprain geometry. What were those guys thinking? This is Boulder Canyon after all.
Oct 21, 2007
Great route, and the grade seems accurate to me. I thought the climb had an accumulation factor, i.e. the various cruxes began to take an accumulative toll on my forearms and psyche. Even though you could take a nap on the mantle ledge, psyching up for the crimp/small foothold traverse to the anchors takes some effort, particularly if you arrive at that point with an onsight happening.
May 12, 2004
I have racked my brain for a suitable cold cut joke, but must settle for just agreeing with Ken. The clip seemed like the hardest move to me, and it is certainly very contrived not to end the route at the stance to which Bill refers.
Aug 1, 2002
Ken's full of bologna! You can rest as long as you want before making the crimp moves over to the anchor and clipping. It is certainly a difficult clip, but not the crux of the climb. I found the crux to be reaching the mantle hold (where I fell off) or the mantle move itself (almost fell off). Fun climb. The hard move at the bottom is by the first bolt, I think. It is indeed a very cool stemming problem. There is also a neat liebacking section by the fourth or fifth bolt. Lots of good variety on this pitch.
Aug 1, 2002
I would say clipping the anchors is the crux of the climb. I popped off while pulling up rope here and went for a fun (and clean) ride. This climb is easier than Global Gorilla's 1st pitch despite the harder rating. If you're looking for a warm-up on Upper Animal World (as opposed to doing something on Lower AW and then walking over), this is a good one since the hard climbing starts up high and after a couple of no-hands rests. The hard move at the 2nd bolt is really a stemming problem so it shouldn't tweak your fingers if they're not warmed up yet.
Aug 1, 2002
- Nice To Be Here
My least favorite of the new routes- some fun climbing, but a lot of scaling rock and lichen still. Whenever I smeared I sheared off little flakes and skidded my feet. Anyone climbing theis should take a brush and scrub on the way back down, particularly near the crux where it was hard to scrub on the way up.... The climb will probably improve with ascents, but it's still going to be a little 'directionless.'
May 1, 2008
- Old Dihedral
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best!
Nov 15, 2017
Fun 5.7. A couple of loose blocks on the left half way to the anchor. This one felt easier than Crack Corner further left.
Jul 17, 2017
Fun beginner trad route. Definitely didn't need up to a 3 in cams but did well w/ a full set of nuts. Plenty of places to rest and double-check gear placement. Pretty short considering nearby routes.
May 30, 2017
A set of nuts and cams to 0.75 is more than enough gear....
Oct 10, 2015
I agree that it is easier than Crack Corner to the left.
Jul 1, 2014
Short but fun. It is easier than Crack Corner (the other trad climb just to the left of it) in my opinion.
Sep 27, 2008
I didn't see anything resembling 5.8 on this climb, quite unremarkable. Maybe if you hauled your rack up and everything else was already being climbed you could get on this route.
May 1, 2008
Fun route with great pro and positive edges all of the way to the top. Well worth the effort if you brought trad gear. An easy way to set up a top rope on Joint Venture.
Nov 21, 2005
Short but fun trad. route. Excellent practice for beginners.
Oct 27, 2003
- Piles of Trials
Really fun and varied route with interesting movements. Not really sure why the consensus is dyno; we figured out two different betas that were fairly straightforward, and we never attempted the dyno.
Oct 18, 2015
Super pscyhed to have just flashed this route. I did go to the right to rest and then came back and fired to the anchors. Totally my style and had a great time on this. 5.12b!
Oct 16, 2015
Interesting route. For me, the crux ended up actually being at the start of the rightwards traverse (getting into the the good hold at the start without getting tangled up in the rope). The feet through here are tough to see and kind of slippery. The rest of it was pretty sequency, but I didn't really ever dyno (used more lower leg flagging instead). One last compression type of move to get stood up onto the headwall.
Sep 15, 2014
I only did the route once for the onsight recently, but I clearly remember using a small, sharp crimp for the right hand that has a tick on it. Locking off on that and getting your left foot up on the jug (the one you dyno to) is the crux. Once you're standing on the jug with your left foot, I bear hugged the block the rest of the way. Have fun with it. It's a great route. The 12a to the left of this is awesome too....
Nov 4, 2012
This route is super good, you must do the dyno. It's amazing and may be one of the sickest moves I've done on a Boulder area climb. Also, maybe it's just me, but I stuck the dyno my first try but could not link the moves after, and they are turning out to be the crux for me. Anyone have beta they want to share?
Nov 3, 2012
Contrived? I think you should do it the way it looks most fun. I threw a right knee pad on and jammed it in near the top at the rest. I guess this makes the route 10b/c the way I did it. Either way you do it, its a good route and climbs alot better than it looks. The moves on the top after the jug horn are super fun. I smiled when I did this route....
Oct 25, 2012
Spectacular! Both versions seem perfectly legit to me, but the dyno (from the sharp flake left and the flaky sidepull right) is simply awesome. Pumpy before and after that too. Just a great sport climb.
Jul 15, 2007
Sorry to contradict, but I felt that the 12b right variation was way contrived, traversing away from the obvious line and that the 12c dyno was the natural way to go. Besides that, the dyno is possibly the wildest single move I have done on any route in Boulder Canyon! If you think you know how to dyno, then go out and give this amazing huck a try.
Aug 25, 2006
I can't even figure out the dyno version. There is a jug to clip the second roof bolt and a layback directly above to reach the lip jug more or less static. What the hell is off route on this route?
Oct 2, 2004
The name "Piles of Trials" comes from an old Moody Blues song with the refrain "Face piles of trials with smiles...." While equipping the climb, I was in the midst of severe back pain. As I was moving my pack at the base of the climb, the ACL in my right knee exploded! I got a knee brace and came out of my hospital bed for the first ascent. Then I took up golf, and the rest is history.... For historical information, FA 2 April 1996.
Jun 20, 2003
I did this the other day via the 12b way, and I have to say that this version is nowhere near as indirect as Rolofson's guide states. All the holds you use to skip the 12c section are within 2-3 feet to the right of the 4th bolt. I agree that going way right to the rest is pretty indirect, but firing straight up the bulge (the 12c way), dynoing to the jug and skipping all the good holds just to the right, is very contrived. Good route though.
Jun 20, 2003
I really liked this route -- the ledge after the traverse makes it too tempting to rest/shake out before pulling through the crux to the upper arete. Both versions, 12b or 12c direct makes for a nice route with many different types of climbing (slab, crimping, power, laybacks, etc.) protecting the anchors.
Aug 6, 2002
- Pit Bull Prowser
Four move V7. Pretty fun actually.
Jun 5, 2016
There is a very definite crux at the third bolt (of pitch 2) that seemed like it would go two ways. A huge body length dyno up and right to an angled rail or classic BoCan crystal crimping up and left. I only managed the latter, but the dyno would be spectacular. Either way it's pretty mean and punchy. Good stone, but it looked as if the second pitch doesn't see much action these days. It's also worth noting that pitch 1 shares anchors and the last four bolts with Cujo Tranquilizer to the left.
Oct 26, 2014
The first pitch of this route is rated 11b and is a fun route in that grade. Unfortunately, the crux comes right off the ground and involves a pretty intense crimp and a high step. A bit brutal for a warm-up. The rest of the pitch is easier, but continuous and fun. Clipping the bolts on the upper section is a bit awkward because the bolts are on one side of the arete, but the climbing is on the other.
Jul 26, 2002
- Reversal Roof
I think if this route was a boulder problem people would love it and call it V5 or V6; as a route it feels kinda weird and silly. I dunno, still enjoyed it though.
Apr 8, 2017
Interesting kneebar beta to (as said above) a wicked mantel. Not really worth the effort in my opinion.
Mar 21, 2015
V7 sounds about right. I climbed it completely to the right of the bolts. No kneebars, but some great toe hook/ heel hook, followed by a wicked mantel.
Aug 27, 2008
- Ride My See-saw
This is just right of the large dead tree, not to the left.
Feb 17, 2013
A little grungy getting to below 3rd bolt. Fun climbing from there. And, a bit run out if you didn't bring any gear to place between the 2nd and 3rd bolt.
Oct 4, 2009
- Split Personality
Great, thuggy climbing through the roof. The two buttonheads don't inspire much confidence (though they're probably ok) before starting in on the crux. The best link-up might be to head up Isn't Life Strange, clip the P1 anchors with a long sling, then head into the cool roof. The climbing before the buttonheads is fun, techy, slab climbing that is worth doing at least once, however.
Sep 4, 2016
Excellent addition to the crag! Yes, it might share a hold or two with ILS, but for most part it is an independent line with classic movement. It has a little bit of everything - thin technical slabbing, thuggy roof climbing, and a slopey finishing crux. Well done!
Nov 14, 2012
I am not trying to be a hater here, but this route is more or less a contrived, squeeze job - at least the bottom half. Not stepping over onto ILS takes almost as much effort as the 5.12 moves themselves! The upper section is pretty cool, although there too you kind of have to force yourself not to bail onto the neighboring 10a to the left. Seems like it could have been done as a variation finish to one of the neighboring routes rather than adding a whole new line of bolts. Just sayin'.
Aug 6, 2012
- Strange Times
The route seems fairly clean now and does not look like it needs much brushing.
Mar 7, 2013
Would be good with a few hours of brushing and trundling.
Apr 2, 2011
- Sundog
I was on this route once or twice a couple years ago but didn't have any real recollection of it today. So, technically it wasn't an onsight, but practically it was. As such, it would be my first 12 onsight according to MP consensus standards. Super hard, slabby moves including some micro edges, technical feet, traversing, arete moves including an arete bump, etc. AWESOME!!! The first real crux comes when exiting the ledge and traversing left onto micros, feet and hands. Going to the anchors, immediately following the 2nd crux, you gotta keep it together mentally, because you finish by going to the left after the final clip.
May 18, 2014
The first crux at bolt 5 is thin but all there. After clipping bolt 5, throw to the arete on the left, lower but better than the slopers above. The second crux at bolt 7 may be the more difficult. The last bit to the anchors is a bit tense, because you're off to the left and above a bulge.
Oct 2, 2010
I left an Ipod Nano here yesterday April 23rd 2010.... If you found it, would you please please get in touch with me... you will get infinite Karma points! 4252680126. Jesse
Apr 23, 2010
To me this root felt every bit of 5.12. The bottom crux alone, unless I am missing some beta, brought it up to this grade for me. Add the top crux, even with the good rest, and I think that this deserves to be an Animal World 12. Make sure that the sun isn't too hot when you go for the redpoint. Like Animal Instinct, sweaty hands and slimy, hot rock will kill you on this route.
Mar 20, 2009
Interesting, thin, and technical footwork. Moves are not 5.12, and the lower crux seemed a tad more difficult than the upper. Perfect rock, well protected and interesting. Think thin.
Jun 19, 2003
This is a great climb w/ a persnickety crux on slabby, slippery granite. The final moves are exciting and somewhat unprotected on chicken heads leading up to the anchor. Definitely technical, the pump factor isn't a issue due to some good rests.
Aug 15, 2002
- Talking Out Of Turn
Uber fun route. Very hard to clean on rappel. The deathblock at the belay is clearly marked - easily avoided. Did it in 1 long pitch with a 70m. Well bolted and fun moves - one of the best sport routes I've ever done.
May 15, 2017
WARNING: loose block next to anchor. Be really careful. It's a fun climb, but I wouldn't do it again until the block is gone.
Apr 24, 2015
I pulled a giant block off at the 3rd bolt and took a groundfall. Didn't get hurt, but bad belay for sure. There is a lot of bad rock on this climb. WATCH OUT! So yeah, the jug at the 3rd bolt is not there anymore, I don't think it really affected the grade though. I did it with out the jug and finished the climb just fine.
Feb 6, 2015
The large block is still sitting precariously on a small ledge next to the anchor. This gave me quite a fright when I setting up my rappel. I barely touched it, and it started to fall down. I caught it and tried to set it back in a stable position. I'm surprised it's still there after 6 years or so. I'm not sure if further action should be taken to remove the rock, but people should at least be aware of it (it wasn't mentioned in the guidebook we had). Otherwise the route was pretty fun. Did it in one pitch with a 70 m. We belayed from the boulder, but I was able to rappel down to the base of upper Animal World.
Jun 12, 2014
Climbs better as one pitch. A 70m will get you from the rap rings at the top of p1 down past the tree to a dirty ramp closer to the ground trail, so you can avoid much of the class four downclimb if you want. Just be careful not to put the rope over anything sharp and to not get it tangled in the tree limbs when you pull it. Thanks for those bolts, fellas. Nice and long climb with fantastic views and fun movement.
Oct 26, 2013
A new first bolt has been added. Thanks to Bob & Bruno for doing this.
Jun 26, 2013
Agreed that it's kinda ridiculous to have to climb off of the boulder to clip that first bolt on the headwall considering that a fall would be really bad there. I clipped some bolt out right then downclimbed and cleaned it. Please add a bolt.
Jun 19, 2013
Ouch!
Oct 8, 2012
Ok climbing, mostly by virtue of length. The first bolt above the ledge should have been placed so that you can clip it while standing on the boulder. Unfortunately this seems to be a theme for this area of the crag (and GH routes in general).
Oct 8, 2012
Hmmm, I guess I'm the odd one out here. I didn't think this route was very good, mainly because I found it quite chossy. A lot of key holds on the route are not fully attached or are hollow. Maybe it will clean up with time. The best part was seeing the antique pitons on an old aid line just right of the top of this route.
Sep 27, 2009
The large loose block right of the anchor is still there, stacked on another loose block. Trundling does not seem like an option regardless of whether there are climbers below as it could easily take the ride to the road.
Aug 4, 2009
There is a large loose block just waiting to fall about 2 feet down and right of the anchor...it moves to the touch, but it is too big to lower down with a person carrying it. Trundling is not an option when people are below, like there was today... and who knows, it may hit the highway when it does go. Be very careful up there, and when you pull your rope, the thing is dangerous.
Jun 13, 2008
A good climb, mostly owing to its length. There are still some loose rocks but they are pretty obvious- remember there could be people below and be cautious. Also some suspicious holds (caution, eh?) and including an odd crux hold (flake/pinch/gaston) on the 2nd pitch, probably where Ron mentions the crux in a tight corner. I doubt it will be there forever. Climb on a 70m to return to the starting ledge by the dead tree with no worries.
May 16, 2008
Bob and Greg, On the behalf of the climbing community, THANKS. One of the nicest blend of continuity, just enough run out and length. One of the best 5.10 in Boulder Canyon. Will do that route again. It's sooooo good! An alternative to the 60 m being too short to belay from the ground: Belay the follower from the second belay top anchor, it's comfy enough. Bonus: A stunning view across the canyon! Two rappels will bring you back safely on the ground. Beta: Stay left for the crux move, otherwise it's a dead end/way harder.
May 12, 2008
This is a great climb! One of the best 5.10 sport routes I've done in Boulder Canyon. Interesting, exposed, and sustained. I felt the crux (a funky corner just above the mid-way anchor) was about 10c, and may be harder for shorter climbers. You can get to the starting ledge for this climb in several ways: 1. Climb Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello (9+, bolts) and continue past the two-bolt anchor to a big dead pine tree on a ledge about 70' up. 2. Walk right beneath Laurel & Hardy... for several hundred feet, and find a path cutting back up left to the ledge with the big dead tree. You can belay by this tree (it is solid enough to be used as an anchor), or scramble up loose ground for 25' to a higher ledge just below the first bolt on the route. From the higher ledge, it is about 100' to the top anchor. You can lower or rappel with a 60m rope. From the lower ledge with the dead tree, it is about 125' to the top anchor. You would need a 70m rope to lower to here, but be careful if you try this.
May 10, 2008
This should become a Boulder Canyon classic -- lovely position and climbing. The crux corner on the second pitch is tougher than .10b for 5'3" and shorter climbers (my wife was grumbling "sandbag," ".10d," etc. as she reached the anchors).
May 5, 2008
Good route Bob. A really nice addition to the canyon in the 5.10 range. We did the whole route (12 bolts) with a 60 meter rope but belayed about 10 feet below the first bolt. A 60 meter rope easily makes it from there but as always be careful. Tie a knot in the end of your rope if there is any doubt in your mind.
Mar 20, 2008
Bob, Good seeing you on Saturday. Thanks for pointing us in the direction of these new routes. We climbed this one in one long pitch (70 meter rope needed) and it was fantastic. Certainly will get better with more traffic. Would have tried the others in the area had we not lost our sun. The 11d with your draws on it looks stellar too...any idea what the crack to the left (with the obvious pin down low) goes at? Did you put in some anchors for this line? Sasha
Mar 17, 2008
- Threshold Of A Dream
Thought this was actually a really nice line, but it definitely felt quite a bit harder than its 12- neighbor (which feels more like .11). I'd give this .12a. Managed to tear off a chalky but pretty useless hold under the roof at the 1st bolt. Non-intuitive moves through the first roof are hard but fun and very different, it feels like tufa climbing at times. The finger locks at the second roof crux are outstanding, and the arete/heel hook exit is great. **Everyone please do your best to not climb any higher on the sketchy bolted in flake piece than the finger locks. It doesn't make the route any easier and is dangerous.***
Sep 26, 2016
A chossy, awkward pull over the initial roof to a very enjoyable slab/arete sequence to hold your breath watch where you step "hollow" sounding jug and flake pulling. If you've climbed everything else at Animal World then at least you have an excuse to get on it.
Nov 15, 2008
Nice Bob. I will be up there today. I'll give a look. Thanks for the hard work. Cheers SAL
Jun 24, 2008
Jesus Cristo Bob! I applaud your hard work as I have done the same. I drilled two 10 inch deep holes and glued two threaded rods into them. I then camouflaged the holes with sand. The rock was a little hollow and since the bolt and hanger that keeps you off the ledge needed to be in that section of rock I figured I would just make sure it was bomb proof. What a pain in the butt. Some routes as well as those who trust that our bolt placements are in solid rock deserve the extra effort to make them safe.
Jun 23, 2008
I guess I just wanted to validate the danger of the block and see if you would mind. I was up there with Doug Madara yesterday and did not really want his visit to be a stone trundling bash. :) We will look into getting up there and cleaning that block. It would be a major bummer for that to dislodge with the amount of folks that climb there. Thanks for the additions up there. SAL
Jun 22, 2008
Great line. But rip that flake out. Bob. Come on... So two people of have yarded on that thing. It is only a matter of time before that thing kills some one below. I climbed the route as you intended Bob, but I scoped that flake out. It is pretty scary in my book. It should have been part of the cleaning process. We all know how much traffic these routes will get. Much Respect. SAL
Jun 21, 2008
Terry Murphy and I toproped and scrubbed this route a couple of years ago but never bolted it cos we couldn't figure out how to remove the offending flake. Granted it's fine just using the fingerlock at the bottom, but as Dave said the flake kinda leads you on. I did shove a block off about 5 foot from the bottom of the route and then watched in horror as it accelerated down the slope, jumped the fence and barreled across the highway about 15 seconds before a car drove by. Ughhh. Nighttime trundling seemed like the best option to remove the flake safely, but we never managed to get it together.
Jun 19, 2008
Much more enjoyable now that the flake has been secured.
Jun 18, 2008
Thanks Bob for bolting this. It is a decent route, and after doing it a second time I like it even more. I placed 2 Xs with chalk on the flake up high. Please be VERY careful with this flake and use it for nothing more than a low finger lock. From this lock, you can bust out right to good face holds. If this thing goes, it could make it to the road.
May 10, 2008
Done with the direct start this is the best of the new routes, and pretty good over all for where and what it is. The 3 star rating assigned is accounting for what I believe it will be like once it cleans up a little more. At present, some of the small chips for feet were still grinding down and I snapped a good bit off of one of them. It actually got bigger now. With a little more srcaping and brushing, it will be a good route. The flake up high sure seems like a death flake to me. I was scared to go any higher then the finger-locks down low once I looked up at it. It looked like a good hard pull from the top or a solid whack with a sledge hammer would probably dislodge the whole thing, but it might go all the way to the road and kill someone... there or on the way down. I hope it won't, but my recent experinece at A.W. on the new routes has been less than stellar. I pulled a 200lb flake off of the 11 and several holds off of the 12 to the right.
May 9, 2008
We did a start directly below the arete, rather than coming in from Days of Future Passed. Is this a new variation? The first bolt however was missing a hanger, but a nut cable can be used on the stud and yellow and red Aliens can back this up also until you reach over the roof and clip the 2nd bolt. Pretty good climbing overall and the direct start adds some more 5.11 down low.
May 1, 2008
This route is very good. together with the two routes to its left, you have a great little chunk of climbing in a concentrated area. However, be warned that this and many of other routes at the upper Animal World crag have a lot of loose / chossy rock. Most of this climb is clean, but a large, angular flake and a loafy jug up top look to be possible missile material. Knock on flakes and jugs before you weight them, and try not to yard out on anything that isn't bombtruck. I guess. Anyway, like I said, sweet route.
Apr 27, 2008
- Triple Play
The bottom half was OK, but the top half naturally draws you leftward. Trying to stay right is more than contrived.
Aug 14, 2017
+1 for contrived.
Jan 26, 2016
IIRC, the first bolt is in a block that isn't solid also....
Aug 3, 2015
This felt more than contrived - it was just silly. How far do you force a move before stepping back left? I led the stemming corner and clipped all the bolts, on toprope climbing anything other than that felt contrived. Almost like this "route" shouldn't even be in the database, just call it variations on the retrobolted stemming corner. Still it's nice to be able to do the corner with just 4 draws...
Aug 2, 2015
Ditto on the contrived character of the line. It's hard to resist the stems leftmost of the time. We used a #3.0, 3.5, and 00 Friend for the bottom part.
Jul 5, 2013
Contrived, yet fun. I thought the moves through the slot were great and the harder moves up high can be made easier by stepping easily left. So, just combine the two routes wherever it feels natural for a decent route all in all.
Aug 10, 2012
Interesting, I had no idea that there are supposedly 2 distinct lines here.
Jul 10, 2010
I led this climb and ended up stepping/reaching over to the 5.7 crack a little too often. On top rope, actually climbing the bolt line I thought it was significantly harder than Is It Ready Yet Moe, which comes in at 5.10a on this site. So, to me, it was at least 5.10c, if not slightly harder, if you stayed more to the right of the bolt line.
Apr 14, 2010
Very contrived.
Jul 9, 2009
How do you rate it? Well, the climb is a step off of a 5.7 much of the way, and I could force the line right for hard moves (probably 5.11) or stem back and left for rest (far easier). By staying more or less on route as I could figure it and choosing the most interesting yet solid climbing up without getting silly eliminating holds and stems, the grade I checked in at was probably 5.9.
May 21, 2009
- Tuesday Afternoon
The roof continues to shed. There is another rattly block with an "X" drawn on it that is ready to be pried off, even though it is a useful foothold.
May 23, 2016
Hmmm.... Sent this over the weekend on third blast. Don't know what the "flake" was like, but without it, I thought the roof move was maybe 11d with some worthy, mid-10 moves up top. (I certainly had to pull the roof in the opposite fashion from what's pictured here. Is THAT the flake in the photo?)
Jul 18, 2011
The flake at the roof appears to be gone now. I'm not sure how hard the crux is now (I'm not good at roof climbs), but it seems hard for 11.
Dec 1, 2009
Hmmm. Choss evolves over time. Perhaps this one should have been better cleaned from the get-go, given the venue and nature of the climb.
Jul 6, 2009
I climbed this today - coming out of the roof gave me the most trouble - I think I cracked off the very last of what was the infamous "flake." And now, without it, I'd feel very confident rating this section 5.12a and the remainder 5.11b/c (keeping the upper slab crux in mind).
Jul 5, 2009
While climbing on this last week, we had an unfortunate occurrence on this rock. After my first send, I wanted to go a second time and clean the roof for a friend, and the sketchy flake on the roof, that was always suspect, finally broke. My feet were on it and I was reaching for the sidepull when all of a sudden CRACK,two pieces of rock flew out, nearly killing my innocent belayer. Needless to say, its a bit harder start now, probably in the 12a/b range, so while aI agree with the previous grade of 11a as a whole, that bouldery start has some more burl in it. Anyone try it since then?
Nov 3, 2008
We climbed this on Thursday - thanks for knocking the big stuff off. There's a lot of sand on it, and a fair bit of loose rock still. I'd give the boulder-ey section a 5.11c/d for one move and the remainder roughly a 5.10... so maybe 5.11 as an average. But it's a pretty tricky boulder move off that left hand to the sidepull. Doesn't feel very secure.
May 31, 2008
We cleaned up the mess left on the ground and built a nice little bench out of it.
May 12, 2008
A good boulder problem to an OK climb, but not too clean. My partner pulled off a few chalked-up holds the size of footballs under the crux roof, then I pulled off the huge starting flake (150 lbs, estimated). The climb is probably safer now, and more solid.... Fun moves, less interesting up top than below.
May 1, 2008
- Unfamiliar Strangers
Also, as someone mentioned earlier, you can clip the first bolt by standing on the big boulder at the start. The moves are 5.9+ right off the ground.
Sep 5, 2017
The new bolt is added. There are now 10 bolts on the route.
Sep 5, 2017
Please add the bolt. I climbed this yesterday (Sep 2) and was amazed by the runout on what I think is 5.3 terrain. Still, the fall from the last bolt as it stands now will be big (~ 50 feet, figuring in slack and rope stretch).
Sep 3, 2017
I just asked Dan for permission to add a bolt to remove the runout, and he said that he is fine with it. I'll get up there some time in the next week or so to do it. I'll post again when it's done. It will be a 3/8" by 2.75" stainless wedge bolt and stainless hanger, torqued to 25 ft-lbs. I know some folks enjoyed the runout, but it is a potentially dangerous fall that is not in character with the rest of this climb, or the other climbs in this area. I would hate to see a 5.9 sport leader (or anyone else) get hurt on this otherwise very well-protected sport climb.
Aug 31, 2017
5.9 climbing until the third bolt then much easier. The runout sections felt like 5.4 climbing to me on big positive holds, and I didn't feel the need to place gear even though I brought it after reading the MP recommendations.
Aug 14, 2017
This is 5.9 PG or PG-13 without trad gear. If the person who bolted this route thought to themselves "Hmm..I'll leave this open for gear placement", then it should not be on Mtn Prjct as a "sport route." As a 5.12 leader, I felt great on it without gear! It was a fun climb!, but most 5.9 leaders will not feel comfortable with this route and should be notified that it is either NOT A SPORT ROUTE, or PG / PG-13. It is tiresome to hear opinions that the route should be left 'as is' when it's not described correctly, and some very traditional climbers LOVE their easy run-out terrain for no apparent reason. We all know rock breaks, especially with freeze thaw.
Apr 19, 2017
Fun climbing, but substantially easier after the second or third bolt. This is not the only route I've seen bolted this way. Remission in South Saint Vrain has similar runout, but like this climb, it is over very easy terrain for the grade. There are probably some places to place gear, but I feel it adds to the excitement of the climb. There are bolts where they are likely to be needed - It's just a different bolting philosophy. As of this post, all bolts and anchors are in good shape. Lowering hooks can be found at the top. Placement of anchors can make setting up a rap tricky if you don't have long enough slings/PAS.
Apr 17, 2017
Bring a #0.75 and a #1 to protect the runout if you're worried about 25' of unprotected 5.4 climbing. I'd give this three stars if it was more sustained - it get tremendously easier after the 2nd or 3rd bolt.
Aug 8, 2016
Just take a small crescent wrench with you.
Apr 21, 2016
I saw a condition report on this route towards the end of last year that said the anchors were loose and it was not currently safe to climb. That comment is now gone, but I see condition reports automatically disappear after 3 months. Does anyone know if the bolts at the anchor's were replaced or tightened? In other words, is this route now safe or does it need some maintenance?
Apr 21, 2016
I see that the vast majority here think this is 5.9. IMHO the bottom 2 bolts are 10. Hey but to each his own.
Jul 10, 2013
Not a bad route. Did it while I was waiting for a party to get off of Animation to the left. First moves are the crux. To protect yourself a tad, you can climb up on to the big ass rock right at the base and clip the first bolt, then downclimb and start up left. After maybe the 3rd bolt or so, it's a jug haul. Fun, but a little scary on a really windy day... even though the holds are all super positive, the bolts are faaaar apart... if by some chance you take a fall, it's gonna be a big one. Worth doing once, I'd say, but probably won't go back to it.
Jun 12, 2012
Wonderful bouldery start to jug haul/easy climbing. Genuinely enjoyed the runout as the section is very easy and no place for natural protection (granted we had a very calm evening session). It lets you realize your exposure and how high you are in the canyon, adding a bolt would take away from this route (runout is not harder than 5.7). Stay focused and appreciate your zen.
May 18, 2012
This would be a good beginner lead, if it weren't for the pointless runout at the top. Who bolted this thing?
May 2, 2012
First two bolts are the crux, most of climbing above there is much easier. I think the route is fairly well bolted, a bit of a space higher up but on some very easy moves.
Jun 21, 2010
Fun route. Crux is def getting past the 1st & 2nd bolt. Fun, easy climbing up top w/enough run out to keep you on your toes.
Oct 4, 2009
I used a green Alien somewhere around/between the 5th or 6th bolts and a black Alien between the 8th & 9th ("The Runout") bolts for good measure. The moves around the first few bolts are the hardest part and I enjoyed the rest of it. I did however stand on the boulder to the right and clip the 1st bolt, then started from the ground...a fall off those first moves could be ugly!
Aug 14, 2009
Phil, Rope stretch and the amount of slack out by the belayer (some climbers prefer a loose belay) could make a top-roped groundfall a possibility if the climber fell down low. The best solution should obviously be to have the belayer keep a snug-to-tight belay for the first 5-10 feet or so, until rope stretch will definitely not be an issue.
Jun 8, 2009
How is there potential for a groundfall on toprope?
May 23, 2009
Caught my buddy on a fall off the beginning of this route last year. Well, I should say the bush caught him. It was pretty fun but even on TR there's a big potential for ground fall. Just make sure you got someone spotting you in the beginning of this one.
May 22, 2009
Just imagine you're climbing at the Flatirons and the runout shouldn't bother you too much. The holds are all there and positive. Fun route! If you like, the route would go mixed with an assortment of thin to hand sized cams.
May 1, 2008
The bottom is tricky, but anyone can figure it out pretty fast (you are on the ground). The 30 foot run out is pretty intimidating at first, but whoever bolted the route figured, if you can lead up to it, you should definitely be able to climb a 5.6 to the next bolt, although I'm not sure why a bolt wasn't placed. Does anyone know?
Jun 18, 2006
The first move was easily done by standing on the flake and stepping up with your right foot on the big ramp. The lead was a bit scary since there was a bit of potential for groundfall on the first move. The rest was so pointlessly easy that I don't even think this route is worth doing. I rated it one 5.8 move with a lot of 4th class afterwards to my partners. All the bolts seemed well placed, and the runout didn't bother me. Too bad the anchor wasn't placed a little higher so the last overhang could be part of the climb.
Jun 13, 2005
Semi-pile, the runout is the best part.
Apr 1, 2005
Does anybody know what the name of this Dan Hare (?) route is? Also: perhaps this discussion is (long?) dead, but I'd add another vote for *not* adding more bolts. I appreciate Peter Beal's perspective (the D'Antonio-esque access-for-all ideology, which is great if that's how you want to put up routes), but I tend to agree with the personal responsibility argument. "rant" Pro opportunities are a fundamental part of *every* climb, sport or no. Suss things out for yourself, make decisions for yourself using the resources available to you (cb.com is major advantage over what we had even a few years ago in this respect...if you wade thru all the garbage), and climb it or don't. The FA party creates a line (and by "line" I mean the rock/pro combo): assess whether or not this line suits what you're up for climbing, and take responsibility for your own choice. If the FA party added enough bolts to make you comfortable, then great. If not, then this line isn't for you...luckily, there are about 10 thousand other lines within an hour to chose from! Finally, if you can't determine whether or not a line is for you with the resources at your disposal (e.g. eyes, brains, internet, friends, etc.) ... well, that's probably a good message that you might be better off moving to something else."/rant" Old fashioned, and Anon by choice...
Feb 24, 2005
Greg, I'll give you that one. It does seem a little strange to a bolt so close to anchors after a long run out. My comment about pointless was more directed to the first comment on the site, and that just in general I don't mind when you run it out a bit on a significantly easier section of a climb. But I am also very much for safety and if people think this route lulls unsuspecting climbers into a false sense of security then maybe it needs looking into.
Nov 1, 2004
Tony, It's called an extension, link-up, or variation -- it's legit and done all the time...
Nov 1, 2004
Thanks everybody for all the reminders that climbing is dangerous. However the bottom of this route is anything but dangerous, while the top is "spicy", climber-talk for don't fall or else. For a naturally protected climb, this makes sense; that's the way Mother Nature intended it. For a rap-bolted moderate, it seems silly. This route could probably be lead all on clean gear, a little "spicy" in sections but no really big deal, difficulty-wise. That makes more sense to me than the current arbitrary set-up now in place, one that is bound to result in some kind of accident, sooner or later. Luring someone onto a route with closely spaced bolts down low and runouts up higher is irresponsible. Make it clear from the beginning what the route is like.
Nov 1, 2004
So what are the ethics of adding length and bolts to protect said length to an existing climb? Seems to me it would be the same as adding a "second pitch" and if the climb were a sport climb, it wouldn't change the existing climbing or the nature of the route, it would just add an additional length to it. For my own part, if I had not sent a line to the top of something and someone wanted to add bolts to it to lengthen it, if it already had bolts, then I wouldn't have any question about it at all. Is there an ethic or standard regarding this that I am unaware of? Or could someone (in this case Greg) feel comfortable and beyond ethical qualms in adding another bolt and 15' of climbing to a different set of anchors and call it a hard extension?
Nov 1, 2004
Gary, I never said the runout was "pointless". I said the anchors were located in a pointless spot. You do the runout and stand on a ledge and clip a bolt. Then you climb about another 5 feet of nothing difficult and then clip the anchors above your head on an overhanging wall. The climbing from the ledge to the anchors adds nothing to the climb other than make a 50 meter rope not to reach the ground. I would like to have seen it extended another 15 feet above the current anchors to add another crux and have a second set of anchors at the ledge to facilitate getting to the ground.
Nov 1, 2004
I found this route to be a good deal of fun. For me the opening sequence was quite tricky, even for 5.9 and from then on quite easy. In MHO the run-out is not "pointless" (thought it did catch me by surprise) because it adds some spice to an easy section of climbing.
Oct 30, 2004
I wouldn't be upset if a bolt was added by whoever put up the route. The runout, in my opinion, is only about 5.6-5.7, and it seems unlikely to me if you can lead the 5.9 crux you would fall on a 5.6. I can think of 10 other sport climbs I have found more terrifying due to large gaps between bolts.
Oct 26, 2004
Peter, I certainly would not object to another bolt in the runout area. This is not Jules Verne we are talking about. I am not sure why people who object to bolts even climb at Animal World. It is a moderately enjoyable route and I think Dan should extend it another 20 feet.The anchors are in a rather pointless location.
Oct 26, 2004
Clearly outlines the difference between the way a sport climber approaches a route and the way a trad climber would. A lot of routes bolted on lead are runout because the first ascentionist only placed a bolt where he could get a stance and where he deemed it necessary. There are a lot of bolted routes that are traditionally bolted and therefore runout on easier ground or where the FA couldn't get a stance or an aid placement no matter how meager. Solid Gold in J-tree comes to mind; Figures on a Landscape, too. The way it is bolted can sometimes full affect the character of a route. Even when a route is bolted one should read the route for runouts, difficulty of climbing near the runout, etc. Thinking for oneself and not assuming the first ascentionist cared about me or my safety is an important part of being a safe and competent climber. No matter how hard you pull.
Oct 26, 2004
Peter, climbing is inhenrently dangerous and unpredictable. If you start the route without trad gear and then notice the run out (like I did) you have two choices: run it out (as you and I did) or get lowered and you lose a biner. Otherwise we would need to bolt all the run outs in the Flatirons, too.... At least now, if one reads the description on this site, you know there is a scary run out and that you may need gear. Caveat Emptor WT
Oct 26, 2004
My point is that a climber can look at this route at the bottom, think, OK this is safe, then find out, quite a bit higher, that a 20-25 foot runout is mandatory. The next step is go for it or climb back down. Why bother putting in the bolts in the first place?
Oct 26, 2004
I agree, the route did not seem overly dangerous to me. The runout part is quite a bit easier than the crux, and you can always bring a stopper or small cam.
Oct 25, 2004
I'm in favor of leaving the route as is. If someone is uncomfortable with the route in its current state, then don't climb it. And, as someone mentioned, there are gear options. And, please, don't lecture me on this being "sport climbing area" and no one brings gear. I do agree that a bolt 3 feet below the anchor after a substantial runout seems strange.
Oct 25, 2004
I believe that Dan Hare equipped this route, and I suspect that he wouldn't object to adding a bolt or two.
Oct 25, 2004
I did this last weekend and would like to suggest that it be retrobolted. The bolts are very close down low and then very far apart up high. The gear you can place is OK but not located in line with the bolts (bring double ropes?) and the last bolt is barely three feet below the anchor. If the equipper could identify him or herself and explain why the route was put up this way, that would be helpful. Otherwise the route should be fixed, before somebody gets hurt on it.
Oct 25, 2004
The opening moves of this sucker are tricky to figure out, it seemed to us the easiest way is not really where the bolt is. You can stand on a flake to clip the bolt, but then you have to somehow go back left, maybe even retreating to the ground and starting farther left. From the flake, we traversed and then cranked straight up; this would be a pretty scary sequence without the bolt protecting you ... The runout up high was indeed noticed! It does seem odd when there are 3 bolts in like 10' and then a significant gap, then one more and another 4' higher are the anchors.
Sep 19, 2004
Chris, I too led this during high winds, and I also became quite "animated"!
Jul 28, 2004
An enjoyable pitch that would rate 2 stars if not for the pointless runout. Exciting in high winds.
Jul 28, 2004
- We Don't Do Crack
Great warm up. Felt way to secure to be 5.9, more like 5.7. Placed a #4 Camalot above the chimney. Worth doing.
Mar 12, 2016
This is a fun route, we placed up to a #4 Camalot on lead.
Feb 17, 2013
- Wine and Roses
This route is bizarre in that trad climbing sort of way. There are some well-protected moves upon entering the corner, good stems, and tricky gear going out the roof. Body English if you're short, a long reach to a good lock if you're tall. I'll echo Tony B's gear rec. x2 in the 0.3-0.5 Camalot range, some C3s or equivalent, small stoppers and maybe a #1 Camalot. Good, funky, unique route for this grade in Boulder Canyon.
May 3, 2014
The crux on this is short but definitely in the 11a range. There are only a few moves at this level, but they definitely exist.
Mar 7, 2013
The finger crack at the top is short but real nice.
Jun 17, 2010
Although I didn't get this clean, I enjoyed the struggle. The moves through the small roof were bizarre for me. This climb is a bit tainted by the more recent bolted route to the right. On the FA it would have been obvious to stem to the right and step right for a rest, but now that the other route is there doing that felt like cheating. But I did it anyway.
Apr 25, 2010
Great climb. The rock and gear are not so good for the first 20 feet, but after the start the climbing and gear are great. Nice and steep. Clipping the first two bolts on the sport climb to the right is a safer alternative, but would change the routes character. 10+/11-
Jun 27, 2008
I agree w/ Tony's remark that this would be classic if the good part were maybe twice as long.
May 19, 2008
A great climb with some crums near the bottom, but great rock the rest of the way. You can traverse in from the right, past the starting flake on 'Talking Out Of Turn and establish a belay on a few stoppers at the base of this climb. Carry a rack of nuts, a run of small cams (to 0.75") and a 2-2.5" cam. The crux is getting the feet over the lip on a rounded finger-lock above a good nut (maybe a #5 BD stopper or equiv?) For people with small fingers like mine, the top is not difficult at all, but still needs pro. Doubles in thin fingers cam-size (first-second knuckle) will be useful if you like lots of gear, but are not required. If this thing continued another 50', it would be a 4-star classic. Sadly, it is a short line.
May 18, 2008
- Arena (aka Contender Wall), The
- Contender Direct
- First Round
Red Camalot placement is obvious and solid but hardly needed. The climbing at that point is on good holds, and the distance between the bolts is not very big.
Sep 29, 2015
- Pornucopia
Nice climb, would get steady traffic at a more popular crag. A little friable at the start, but the holds are solid through the crux. Seriously thin feet! I didn't finish beyond the 4th bolt - is that traverse section better than it looks?
Apr 10, 2015
This is a line in honor of Dale Goddard. Thin, fingery, and fun.
Sep 19, 2011
- Standing Eight Count
Better be 5'10" or taller to keep it at the grade near the top. The long reach right could turn into a dyno for shorter folks.
Sep 29, 2015
- Sucker Punch
- Armin's Crag
- Armin Center
- Armin Dillo
- Armin Left
I thought an SR was sufficient.
Apr 28, 2010
- Gnat Burrito Slab
- No Armin It
I lead this last night with Seth Musulin and would have called the route 5.8 at the most and R/X (no option on the pulldown tab for R/X). It was chossy but the holds were big enough that it wasn't that big of a deal other than the death pillar 25ft up (first and only place you get gear). Unfortunately 6 other people were below so I did not cut the pillar loose so beware. I'd be careful toproping this line as well as there are a TON of loose rocks above, especially if you use the tree anchor. Also, the route is only 30ft tall, but the tree is back another 20+feet from the top, so the height in the description is technically accurate, but don't expect that amount of climbing. Seth and I also added two new routes to the left side of the crag - a 5.8 crack and a 5.10b R face thing.
Apr 28, 2010
- Avalon
- First Tier
- Anti-Sport, The
Good route with a tough crux. Maybe easier if you have a long wingspan? You don't need a #4. I brought one and it ended up in a slot just below a bomber #3 placement. The nut is still in the roof slot. I hung on it a bit only because I wanted to make sure it stays in place....
Aug 6, 2017
Great route, Cor. It has cleaned up well and protects well without a BD 3-4.
Jul 2, 2013
Finally got on this route again after belaying Cor on it on the FA early this summer. Still climbs great, it's cleaned up quite well, looks like it's been seeing some traffic, which is awesome.... Good job again, dude!!
Sep 19, 2010
Glad to hear that everyone is enjoying this route! I don't really need the stopper back, it was old.... It is nice to have something there, 'tis a rope eater!
Aug 30, 2010
Really fun moves through the roof and over the lip -- more solid than I expected. I had the advantage of my partner having placed all the gear at the crux already as we sorted this thing out, so I got to cruise right through. Some of the stances seemed a little pumpy to place pro from. I'll definitely be back to clean this up. I highly recommend the stopper at the lip (#12 BD). It didn't really get in the way of my hand jam over the lip, and the crack is a real rope-eater and quite sharp.
Aug 29, 2010
Equally guilty.... I lead the pitch and hadn't read the description of why the stopper was there. I'd commented that I'd have preferred a fingerlock to the handjam I got and that may have influenced Jason's cleaning of the gear - no harm intended. It was a pretty good line, but could still use a nice brushing up above the roof to make the feet a little more solid. Right now with the amount of dirt and moss the mental crux is trusting the friction... which means less enjoyment of the climbing in and of itself. But it should clean up very nicely.
Aug 22, 2010
I was actually pleasantly surprised by how much better this route climbed than it appeared from the ground. Still a bit dirty, but quite a fun roof actually. I removed the fixed stopper above the roof quite easily if whoever left it wants it back. EDIT: Sorry, just read your description for the first time and saw the comment in the gear section about you leaving the nut because of the rope. Sorry for removing it, though I don't think a fixed piece there is necessary. Maybe just a comment in the description saying it's a good idea to put a nut here to avoid problems with the rope? You'd probably want a piece there anyway but I found that large of a nut kind of hindered my ability to get a good jam. Nonetheless, if you want it back so you can replace it, I'd be happy to return it.
Aug 18, 2010
Big fun, Cor. Thanks for the nice addition, psyched to get on SCD, ran out of time though....
Jul 26, 2010
Trad climbers are about to siege the Avalon and take it over. Armageddon! There may be a mass exodus of bolt clippers to the pork spark!
Jun 12, 2010
This route needs to be unchopped. The long standing ethics at Avalon has followed the strict style of bolting every crack. As such, I have no choice but to add bolts at 3 foot spacings for the entire length of the crack. I'm sorry, but you have left the community no choice....
Jun 10, 2010
- Body Count
This line is fun. I did't feel any overwhelming compulsion to clip another line, and it felt like a legit mid-11 route in its own right. Bolting is great.
Jun 20, 2016
Firing directly straight up the bolt line makes it somewhere between 5.11-/11. It's pretty fun climbing, but it's completely contrived (everyone else apparently thinks so too, given that there was zero chalk on almost all of the holds, but plastered everywhere else) and poorly bolted on top of that. The crux, if following the contrived line, really isn't even the climbing - it's not getting accidentally sucked into the heavily chalked, easier line out right that felt like part of the adjacent route. Following that line seemed no harder than 10d. It's actually pretty fun movement through the lower section - only thing saving this route from a solid bomb, zero stars, would not recommend. One of the few routes I've been on that I found myself actually annoyed while climbing.
Sep 27, 2015
The crimps down low definitely felt harder than 11a to me. It's splitting hairs, but I'd go with 11b which is consistent with the D'Antonio guidebook. I think all the grievances listed above are fair, but I really like this route.
Jul 17, 2015
Turd pile.
Sep 27, 2014
Felt harder than 11a/b to me. Crimps down low were super tiny, and I could barely get half a finger pad on.
Sep 16, 2012
Squeezed nature of this route makes it feel contrived and spoils both this route and the more moderate but better climbs on either side unfortunately. None are as fun as the Antisport though!
Jul 26, 2010
The crux is definitely in the bottom half. Did a hold break off of this? These crimps did not feel like 11a holds to me.
May 29, 2010
Some pretty decent climbing on this route, but the grid-bolting definitely detracts. I could clip up 3 different routes while climbing this thing, and definitely felt like the natural climbing was 'off-route'. I guess to make it .11c you can take the contrived way straight up, but isn't every route harder if you avoid all the good features? Never-the-less, put all that out of your head and just venture up some nice face climbing, no matter which was you choose to do it.
May 23, 2010
Another Rossiter route with a clipping crux (or two). I guess those types of things happen when you are furiously grid bolting as fast as you can. The actual climbing is good, but the location of the 2nd bolt, and to some extent the 3rd bolt, detract from the route quality.
Sep 1, 2008
This climb is thin and balancy to start, but really well protected. I'd say its got a couple of 11a/b moves in the middle but the top is 9+. Another solid climb at Avalon. - KT
Oct 16, 2006
This climb is reasonably fun, but the fun is dampened by the close proximity of the lines left and right, which produced an unpleasant "I-wonder-if-these-holds-are-on" mental debate. Not to mention questions about which bolts to head toward. The climbing itself is pretty straightforward crimping, with a couple of balncy moves. The line right of this is better defined, and has more interesting moves, in my opinion. Maybe I was just cranky.
Jun 20, 2005
2 things: first of all this climb felt harder than 11a. I went right of the first two bolts and maybe should have gone left?? Also, be careful on the second clip. Making that clip was the crux of the whole climb for me and if you came off before clipping you would certainly hit the ground quite hard. Other than that fun, crimpy and uber pumpy climbing. ung
Oct 22, 2004
- Catch and Release
I've climbed and established a fair amount of routes with Bob. He is prolific and puts up fun routes, although he is not big on doing a lot of cleaning. I've done several of his routes and found easier sequences which were only revealed after either brushing the pitches up or feeling around in the lichen for easier sequences. I'm not a fan of rating routes on contrived sequences when easier ones are within reach, not that I think that's Bob's intention.
Aug 7, 2016
Straight through the roof is heinous and harder than most Bocan 13as. Maybe a hold broke?
Jun 10, 2013
Shumin, I tried this thing today and had the same question about the roof. My initial instinct was to go above it on the right, then traverse back left but looking at the bolting job, decided that wasn't the intention and so I reversed it back to below the roof. From here, I punched it straight over the roof, with the first roof bolt a bit to my right. Felt really hard this way with awkward holds and powerful reaches/lockoffs. Not sure this was the intended path though....
Aug 7, 2010
Got on this route a couple of weekends ago. It doesn't seem like it has seem much traffic lately. Question for the FA, is one suppose to "bypass" the lower roof by going to the right and then traverse over on the lip? I tried different things to go over the roof directly, but the holds were thin and the moves burly. The eventual sequence I settled on (and for the upper crux) involved delicate balance rather than brawn. Fun route detracted from the creek and road noise.
Jul 24, 2006
- Iron Maiden
Travis is right, be careful between those first two bolts.
Jun 23, 2016
The first bolt is way too low on this route - high ground-fall potential between it and the second bolt. It goes to show you that just because some climb is bolted doesn't mean it's safe.
Sep 3, 2013
Surmount the first root by stepping left onto the face, head up and right to the second roof, then enjoy the delightful series of moves up the steep holds -- fun!
Jun 20, 2010
Really fun route. The second roof was a blast. One of the best routes at Avalon.
Jun 6, 2009
Very fun route with interesting moves and nicely bolted, I thought. Guide book rates it 5.10a, but I vote for 5.9. You will not be able to see your belayer from the top, so plan accordingly.
Sep 11, 2006
I thought this was a really fun route. Some really nice "jungle gym" moves going through the roofs.
Oct 15, 2005
- Marquis de Sade
Good climb. For me, only the awkward roof took half a star away from being a great route. Harder than Lust on Tarot Wall, IMHO.
Sep 3, 2017
I climbed it today, didn't have a guidebook with me, just a few notes from mountain project. I wanted to do some easy routes, so I though this was a 5.9, and I climbed the whole thing thinking: "this is a hard 5.9". The finger crack have to be quick to get to the bolt and clip, I didn't get pumped. It's a nice technical route, mainly legs, but below the roof, it took me some time to figure out. I did chimney using the rock on the right, it was easy when I found the way. After I finished, I was asking a climber with a book which route was that and he said: "Marquis of Sade, 10c", that's when I found out it wasn't a hard 5.9.
Sep 18, 2015
10d, crux was a tough move requiring good technique (especially for a short person like me).
Jul 25, 2011
Interesting the way that the crack in the roof was sealed up to prevent the rope from getting stuck. Normally I'm not in favor of altering the rock, but it seems to be quite useful here. CL
Sep 2, 2007
Finger crack is not too bad (not easy either). I stuck my left foot in the crack and found purchase for my right on a little something on the face. The roof moves are a riot w/ many big holds to choose from. Best to move quickly in order to have some gas to clip the bolt above the roof.
Jun 2, 2007
I wasn't going to stem the block at first, but it was more fun than worrying about "style". JUST HAVE FUN
May 13, 2007
I have to agree. The crux crack move was really thin for 10c.
May 30, 2006
I liked stemming off the block behind to go over the roof. At least, it was more fun than pretending it wasn't there.
Jun 20, 2005
A pumpy route with several hard sections. The crux finger crack seems harder than 10c; I'd call it 10d. The moves over the roof are exciting and the 7th bolt (above the roof) is a tough clip.
Oct 25, 2003
- Mists of Avalon
I felt like this route was poorly bolted above the roof, a fall will place you into the roof or onto the big ledge below, so don't fall at or just above bolt 4, IMO. The first bolt was loose, I hand tightened it. The 4th bolt is loose and is spinning.
Sep 29, 2016
I liked it, looks like most people move to the left after the roof. I thought the thin holds and feet on the slab after might be harder than 10a. Fun route, decent shady area for extra hot days.
Jun 23, 2016
Really enjoyable route. Maybe I'm getting stronger, but stemming through the roof made it seem not too hard. The move right before the 4th bolt felt like the crux to me: committing and balancy. Superb slab climbing above. 2 or 3 stars.
May 15, 2015
The roof is tough, the crux in terms of strength moves. The thin stuff on the slab above scared me more than the crux though! Guess I need to practice 5.10 slabs, since with that combined with the crux, I would have given it harder than 10a.
Jun 20, 2012
Fun route. Thin moves over the roof felt like the crux to me. Prod.
Mar 31, 2012
My first roof ever...great climb. Hanger on 8th bolt spins...last bolt on the face.
May 16, 2010
Great climb! One of the best 10s at Avalon. Moves over the roof felt a bit tougher than 10a... but perhaps they're 10a if you have good roof technique. Fun thin slab climbing above. Really a great line.
May 31, 2008
Going straight up at the roof is burly but very rewarding. Move up quickly after clipping the fourth bolt and you will find a very nice rest.
Jun 15, 2007
Fun fun. I wish it was on the north side!! So cold!! But it was fun, the crux is the roof and to the fourth bolt. Then after that, it's cake.
May 2, 2007
This is a nice climb. Tricky for someone short without the ape-factor (I'm 5'4") to clip that 3rd bolt from the ledge before committing to the roof - I baaaarely reached it on tip-toes (a fall here would be ugly). For anyone taller, this isn't an issue. The roof to slab transition is awesome, as well as the slab finish.
Oct 14, 2006
This was my first roof, pretty fun and great for a beginner due to the staging area you have just below the overhang.
Sep 20, 2006
I think this is one of the better routes at this crag. The start is a little junky, so it looks like it doesn't get climbed much, but pulling the roof and gaining the steep slab above was interesting and fun.
Jun 5, 2006
Great route with some history from my point of view- something that speaks of vision and forward thinking. When I first stumbled across this route, not long after the FA, I had no clue what it was. I pretty much bagged on it on CB.com in my description submitted for the Lower Tier of Avalon. Remember, at the time there was little known or published about the area or the route. I complained that it was a worthless and dirty piece of junk. Moss and lichen all over, crumbling holds on the face, sharp, etc... The ugly duckling did not become a beautiful swan or anything here, but it is at least a stately goose. The route has cleaned up nicely and is now a testament to the forward thinking and vision of Richard for equipping it. Crow tastes like chicken once I get past the feathers, I guess. Nice addition to the wall. Long and pleasant- one of the better routes here.
Jul 30, 2005
Grungy down low, but excellent climbing from the roof to the top. The crux is getting established on the steep slab above the roof, and it can be done in two different ways, as Ivan mentions. I climbed straight up to the fourth bolt, and my partner stemmed up left and then stepped right at the fourth bolt. From here, climb the steep slab on thin 5.9 edges to the top.
Aug 20, 2004
- Sex Slave
Because I'm crazy and stupid, I did this with just the bolts, no trad. Sketchy, but pretty easy for 5.10c. Getting to the second bolt is tough, but the possibility of breaking a leg makes it seem easier. Fun climb, I would recommend the trad gear though if you don't want to gamble. Beginning tests your layback strength. Nasty stuff in the middle. Best suicidal onsight of my life.
Jul 30, 2011
This thing is totally scummy up top in the crack that you climb the last 10 feet to the anchors. The rest of it is actually quite clean despite the appearance that you'll be ascending through shrubbery. Any pro about a 1/2" wide will work up there, but it's no fun feeling like you're standing in a garden while you might be trying to place. Yick.
Aug 10, 2010
Very fun climb. Yes, it is hard at first I didn't protect it though, sometimes it is better for me just to go for the bolt then to waste energy hanging on a micro-crimp to set a piece. After the first couple of bolts, it's easier and a little mossy. The roof go to the left and stem up into a lie-back about 8 feet and I placed a 0.75 Camalot. That was fine until the anchor. Commit to the moves!
May 2, 2007
5.10b as a sport-grade. 9+ trad. The gear down below goes well as a red Alien, but at that time you are just below the bolt and one more move gets you there. The fingers are reasonably secure but the feet are not so good, so depending on strength and endurance, you may not want to bother with geat at all. Up top, a smaller Alien would go left of the roof to reduce drag (green one?) and then maybe a #0.75 or #1 Camalot in the corner to the anchors. Climbers who feel largely secure on 5.10 could skip either the gear or the bolts, if they brought a rack. Reasonably good climb with a trashy section in the middle.
Jul 23, 2005
FYI - a foothold broke on me climbing this route this morning, the left foot just at the 'roof' (look in the picture at the bent red arrow, the foot hold was right where the bend is in that red arrow in the picture). Fortunately, belayer was standing to the side since we know full well how much loose junk is on this route. It was still a big surprise when the foothold broke though, since that part of the rock looked completely solid. Route grade is unaltered, simply smear a bit to the left of where the hold broke. Lots of rockfall this year folks, be careful out there. Thats the real point of this post. :-) bob PS - at least the third time I've climbed this and I'd bet money I'd used that foothold before.
Jun 22, 2005
Strenuous climbing that seems harder than 10c. The flared crack at the start saps arm strength while you're hanging out placing pro and clipping the first bolt. I used a red Alien to protect the opening moves. The crux is getting to the second bolt before you flame out; I find this easier to do climbing up left of the first bolt, laybacking my feet up the slanting crack. Past the second bolt, the climbing eases significantly and goes through some bushy sections to the roof. Bring a #.75 and #1 Camalot or equivalent to protect the upper corner after you turn the roof.
Aug 20, 2004
- Slayer
I echo the two comments above about being on your game down low. To me, the crux is between bolt #2 and #3.
Sep 3, 2017
Bolts are where you need them to be, no more than that. The roof is a little spicy! Final bolt below roof is a little low for me!
Dec 25, 2016
Agree with everybody else - be on your game, there are bolts where you really need them, but don't goof while clipping them. Falls with all the slack out would be undesirable. Update - bring one or more long draws for rope drag.
Aug 9, 2012
I took the fall on the third clip while stepping through. Not wearing helmet==== Idiocy. I flipped upside down and ended up staring about 18 inches from the starting rock. BE CAREFUL on this one and don't try it when you're hungover, tired, or sloppy. Otherwise, excellent route with creative opportunities.
Jul 23, 2011
Good climbing in general, but rap bolting + clipping crux = completely lame.
Sep 1, 2008
Fun route. Crux is definitely figuring out the first roof and then the next couple of moves. Though I did it very differently then my partner, so there is more than one way to slay the beast! Nice climb with interesting moves. My first time in the area and was impressed overall.
Aug 7, 2005
Ron-Of course by 'good fall' you mean a BAD fall, right? I seem to remember it's pretty committing to pull that section. This one's fun! Actually, this whole area is nice.
Sep 13, 2004
Pumpy moves past the little overhang above the second bolt, and a committing clip at the third bolt; don't blow it or you're looking at a good fall.
Aug 20, 2004
- Spare Rib
I think the first crux jamming past the flake off the ledge is no harder than 5.9 and that the roof above the anchors for the nearby routes is also no harder than 5.9, epecially by wide crack standards found at Vedauwoo, South Platte, etc. But this is Boulder Canyon, so I could see a 5.10a rating for the whole route, but nothing higher. I also would not recommend splitting this into two pitches as one of the guidebooks suggests. The only reason to stop at the lower bolted anchor for Sword in the Stone is if you don't want to do the roof (which is quite fun and pretty mellow in my opinion). Also, if you're doing the whole route, bring a #6 Camalot.
Aug 18, 2010
- Sport Climber's Demise, The
Great route, Cor, good job!
Oct 6, 2010
Thanks for the grade info from all. I changed it to 10+, because I love a sandbagged rating anyway. Haven't been back on it for a while, and I am sure there is easier ways out the roof than what I did.... Anyway, glad everyone is having fun on this thing! P.S. good comment, Tony. Yeah, don't be scared of this thing.... It is fun, and protects well. Rich, maybe you were looking at the wrong anchor? It is at the very top of the cliff, inline with the route. (No directionals needed.) Cheers! Cor
Aug 30, 2010
I really enjoyed this climb as well and think Tony said it well -- it's just a little too solid for 5.11. That being said, I think it is a little tricky as an onsight. The easiest way through the roof is not the most obvious. If you just charge straight through the roof, maybe it is 5.11. I was glad to have (2) #3 Camalots, and at least (1) #4. I think singles on everything else worked fine. Unfortunately, the anchor is way off to the right, so getting a TR on this would be a bit of a pain.
Aug 29, 2010
A pretty good climb with fun and interesting moves on great rock. Frankly, I was surprised at how good it was. The crux is a great problem with good position in and of itself, but is a little too solid for the 5.11 grade. I'd put it below yardstick 5.11 roof/overhang moves such as Vertigo, or for that matter (given the width) perhaps I should compare it to The Diving Board, which is also harder. Perhaps I found a different sequence, as this route seemed about the same if not slightly easier for me than The Anti-Sport, though I was informed I missed a crux jug on that one. Solid 5.10 or 10+ for this route. The difficulty of the climbing should not be a consuming argument, but I wanted to be sure that people are not unreasonably scared to try it.
Aug 22, 2010
I wouldn't say this is anything like Vedauwoo personally, but I did find it quite fun, and a heck of a lot better than it looked from the ground, that's for sure. Nice addition, especially to an already very popular crag and a sport one at that. I would also say the roof is no harder than the other new route, The Anti-Sport.
Aug 18, 2010
Keep it up HardCor, love your work! Keep rocking the boat, let's get out and do some of this kind of dastardly stuff together soon!
Jun 23, 2010
Be advised, you sir, are treading on thin water. That's more dastardly than treading on thin ice, but I guess Jesus did it, so maybe it is ok, anyway I digress.... Your style of using widgetcraft shall be punished by burning your steak. Repent now, and go to McGuckin's and buy some bolts to adequately protect that deep fissure that you have forced upon the unwitting climbing community.
Jun 22, 2010
- Sword In The Stone
Pretty nice climb! Great holds all over. Get on it!
Jul 6, 2016
Fun route, but the first bolt is kind of in a bad spot. It's super easy, so you will probably never fall, but the bolt is at the edge of a piece of stone, so the biner on your draw kinda lies flat over the edge. It's super easy terrain up to like the third bolt, but if you did fall between the first and second, you could pretty easily snap your biner in half. Consider threading a sling through it and putting a biner on the end to avoid that.
Jun 23, 2016
It's a nice climb, it starts with somewhat wandering moves on blocks to the arete. Watch out for z-clipping on the arete, the bolts are extremely close together.
Jul 3, 2012
Lower end 9+? I laughed out loud. How many hairs are you gonna split?
Apr 11, 2012
Definitely fun and, as mentioned earlier, bolts placed exactly where you would want them. Push through the arete and be rewarded with a nice pocket below the last bolt, then you are home free. A grade of 5.9 or a lower end 9+ feels accurate. Great route and amazing area for intermediate climbers.
Sep 28, 2011
Very nicely bolted- just where you want them to be.
Aug 8, 2010
Didn't think the arete was all that sharp. Fun climb.
Jul 30, 2010
Lotsa fun with a variety of moves up the face then using the sharp arete. Sensibly protected.
Jun 20, 2010
It was definitely fun, awkward, but fun. It requires some weird moves, but if climbed correctly it can make it easier. The back side of the arete is really crappy, but it gets the job done.
May 2, 2007
- Tunnel of Love
I believe if the crux is done correctly then it's a 5.9. But if your sequence is off, it becomes a lot harder. When I led it today, I was off and took two nice whips then pulled it. Later I TR'd it and walked up it. Fun climb! I also skipped the tunnel due to the blocking blocks and finished on Marquis De Sade. That made for a real nice pull of the roof.
Jul 17, 2010
5.9 seemed about on for what I did, and the crux was a high step, leaving the crack... however. Rather than go up through the tunnel which is presently jammed with a large rock and appears to be impassible, we traversed left under it and finished on Marquis De Sade. This was interesting and added a second crux, maybe 5.9+.
Jul 27, 2005
An interesting climb with a variety of moves. I found the crux, exiting the hand crack onto the face above, to be considerably harder than 5.9. Gear: Aliens and Camalots to #3 or #4. Belay from the top and walk off left, past Tarot Wall, and back down the path to the start.
Oct 24, 2003
- Second Tier
- Clipboard Area
- Chairman of the Board
Size isn't everything....
Aug 7, 2016
Would be a classic if it were longer, great for a first 'difficult' slab lead.
Sep 5, 2013
Would be a classic if it were longer. Very different from any other route in BC that I have been on.
Jun 12, 2009
Be wary of the 3rd bolt. High possibility of decking trying to clip it.
Jun 22, 2007
For what it's worth, I found this considerably harder than Freefall. But I guess that only goes to show that I have crappy footwork, or something. I do agree with the above comments about the quality though. The rock is some of the more interesting rock found in Boulder Canyon.
Apr 17, 2006
Young Doug...Whew! This felt a lot steeper when I got on it vs. standing at the bottom and looking up! Ha Ha! Just skip the last bolt, and throw for the Thank God ledge! Nothing up here is as necky as their neighbors 8-miles south...Perhaps serious thought needs to be given to the grading bar that is Eldo...Lumpy..etc. My 2-cents..thanks for listening..or not.
Sep 23, 2005
Great [climbing], interesting moves, sequence is key. Like Clipboard, if it were twice as long, it would be an area destination. Maybe rope up and fire them back to back for a 80' of great rock and moves. The grade however... I can rarely flash 5.12. 11d is hard for me and it should feel really hard. I should have more trouble than this with torn ligamnets and an [immobilized] left ankle... I almost would say 11b, but maybe the splint makes it easier to front-point small holds? 11c seemed like a maximum.
Jul 27, 2005
AC has a good point. I'll respond by saying that I merely gave an opinion without added comment such as "No way is this 12a". If I'm outvoted I'm fine with that. I'm still saying that no matter what the grade, this route is well worth climbing by anyone who makes the hike. I'll add that I had a much harder time with the route to the right, to the contrary of most posted opinion.
Sep 27, 2004
Peter, It seems you care about the rating seeing as you down rated it.
Sep 27, 2004
Who cares about the rating? This route has some of the best rock in the canyon and if it were another 30 or 40 feet long would be among the best pitches of its kind on the Front Range. Pockets on bombproof granite, crux at the top=must-do route.
Sep 26, 2004
Interesting climbing on oddly textured rock. At least two letter grades harder than the adjacent Clipboard.
Jun 24, 2004
Definitely one of the more aesthetically pleasing lines at Avalon.
Oct 28, 2003
- Clipboard, The
I started in crack and cut left where it seemed obvious to do so--I know you can stay "nose to the bolts", but that seems rather contrived, and it's a nice climb to do. It however feels natural.
May 13, 2017
I found this route to be much easier than Strange Science down on middle wall...even if you stay true to the bolt line. I stayed left and straight up the bolts and it felt like .11b to me.
Jun 17, 2011
I'd call it 11b straight up the bolt line. Great movement and exciting finish right before the mantle.
Sep 18, 2010
11c... as in FM on the Elephant's? Harder than Aerospace in Eldo? Nah... 11a. It is simila to 'The Scientist' at Plotinus, a climb which I would have upgraded against consensus. This is thin face climbing on excellent (or better) rock and if it were a full pitch long (3 times longer than it is) it would be a bona-fide classic, but as it stands it has to be listed as simply 40' of the best rock around...a measured compliment.
Jul 22, 2005
Just did this route today, and have done a bunch of routes up at this crag. I am not sure if the folks claiming .11a stayed in the "Stigmata" crack for a while longer, but I tried to stay left, or true to the bolts, and found the moves quite consistent for the grade. While small holds are not really my forte, I can usually onsight this grade, and had a hard time even with the redpoint. Then again, could be a reach thing.
Aug 8, 2004
This is a nice face climb, but isn't harder than 5.11a.
Dec 9, 2003
A pretty good short route, but not 11c. Significantly easier than the 11c to the right (Strange Science?)
Oct 20, 2003
Although a sustained climb with excellent and varied holds, it is not 5.11c, possibly 5.10+ or 5.11-. The left hand Clipboard line is closer to 5.11c.
Sep 26, 2002
- Stigmata
Even cleaning this route on top route, I felt it to be hard. The moves are there, but it was difficult for me, even my partner took a lead fall on it. I would call it a 5.10+ for sure.
Jul 16, 2016
Small wires and Aliens. Fun route with good gear. Just wish it was longer. CL
Sep 2, 2007
Fun route. Too bad it's not a little longer. I led it today and felt like it was no harder than a 5.9-, max. I suppose if you try to keep both your hands and feet in the crack, that'd make it harder (much). But, there's too many options for your feet on the face. Well worth doing, though.
Sep 29, 2005
Young Doug..Isn't the name of this route "The Stigma" ? This is a very fine piece of granite..this route, it's neighbors, and all of those on the west are really a lot of fun! A good day is to bag all of the lines on this square buttress. Rossiter has a knack for finding some great routes.
Sep 23, 2005
Eats small Aliens...
Aug 28, 2005
I really wish this wall had been tall and skinny instead of short and fat. This is the third route on the wall, and the third route on great rock with great moves. It's also the third route to be only about a third of a route long: about 12 meters... The gear- do you like stoppers or TCU's? A single rack of either + a quickdraw will get you up the route cleanly.
Jul 28, 2005
OK. OK. About the solitary bolt... If you look at the photo (above) you will see that the big flake that forms the right side of the final crack is detached. I decided to place a bolt on the left wall in case the flake ever came loose. At least you will still be attached to the wall, and if your belayer becomes road kill, you can still get down safely.
Sep 28, 2004
i know the shameless can clip the bolts. but how about the just plain chicken? are they allowed to?
Aug 5, 2004
Why the bolt? It's easy up there, and there's good gear at your knees as you start the final, relatively easy (7 or 8) wide crack.
Nov 14, 2003
super fun moves, but pretty short. not too hard for a 5.10
Jul 23, 2003
- Middle Wall
- Disinclination
Didn't feel like 5.7.
Jul 4, 2012
You're kind of all over this big rock face. Good position and exposure - more fun than you would think.
Sep 18, 2010
This climb can be lead on trad and makes for excellent practice protecting thin slabs with potential runouts (depending on how good your gear placement technique is). It certainly increased my interest in the route.
Aug 13, 2008
A fun climb with good rock and well-protected. In the scale of this rock and this canyon, I think it is an exemplary climb of quality at the low difficulty range. Would never get a 5.7 in the Flatirons, but might in a more 'modern' scale.
May 14, 2007
Much more fun than Midway. Clean climbing on a well-bolted slab and you can even toprope it from the rings at the base of the pillar Rossiter describes in his BC guide. Gives you a chance to safely play around on Ripcord as well (minus the rope-stretch)! Good technical moves that force-teach you to learn slab-climbing on granite. Two stars because the start is a little contrived and the route traverses a good bit from start to finish. Rope-drag over the rock at the start can be a pain.~Wm
Jun 25, 2005
On a 35 degree and snowing day, this felt easier than East Slab on the Dome, so I'm calling this 5.5. It's a good route for the grade, but no where near 5.8 as it was rated by Rossiter.
Nov 2, 2003
- Flashpoint
This line would be a lot more enjoyable if the FA crew had brushed it more.
Aug 1, 2013
Not a bad route, if you don't mind climbing a long 5.7 to do a very short 5.11a. It must get no traffic, because I had to smear on some lichen. I rappelled from the top to the ground with (what I belive was) a 60m. But there are two other sets of anchors on the way down.
Oct 3, 2011
I fell at the crux before clipping the second bolt and did not hit the ledge. This was true even though I pulled my belayer off his feet causing him to fall down the hill at the base. So, you likely won't hit the ledge falling at the crux.
Jul 14, 2009
Did as one pitch from ground approaching via Disinclination. You can lower all the way off with a 70, maybe even a 60.
Jul 14, 2009
The 2 ledges make this a sketchy lead. Good climb on TR, but not worth it to me to ever climb again. The weird moves are right at ledge-decking potential.
May 27, 2008
You can totally run this into a single pitch from the base and still lower off with a single 70M, but watch out! You'd likely hit the ledge if you fall before the second clip.
May 14, 2007
- Free Fall
Skip the clip!
Aug 30, 2017
Richard, I'm not sure if you'll read this, but thank you for putting up the route. Are the bolts in weird placements? Yes. Did you protect the hell out of it so it's super safe? Yes! That's all that needs to be said. It's safe, fun, and pushes you to either mentally be tough and skip or be stronger and clip. Fun, little route, and I thank you for your time and effort! P.S.: I hope your back suffers no more injuries!
Apr 10, 2015
Someone ought to remove the extra bolt. It's a little overkill even for BoCan.
Sep 5, 2013
Haha, my bad Eric, V3 ish..? Better? Slim, I used a dumb rope, but I was pretending that I had a couple organics beneath me and that made me feel better.
Oct 22, 2012
Alternative BETA Alert: so I did this entirely differently... actually statically though I normally don't always climb statically. I had my right hand gastoning the flake just left of crux bolt, then did a big cross over to the good part of the slot before the jug which made the left hand really positive. This also allowed me to not be so scrunched at the crux when getting high feet. Went right hand to sloping pinch below jug, got left foot to ticked hold, flagged right, and slowly went right hand to jug. No throw needed at all.
Sep 24, 2012
Jon, funny, but V4 doesn't translate into 11c/d. One of your two grade suggestions must be wrong, they are mutually exclusive.
May 13, 2012
Nice work! That's pretty bold. Did you use a pad?
Dec 5, 2011
Glorified boulder problem... V4.
Dec 5, 2011
Skip the clip! I am a huge wuss and had no problem skipping it. The fall is clean and the hold after is bomber.
Aug 24, 2009
If they are difficult you can skip some of the clips or get them from above and be OK. They are pretty close together.
May 14, 2007
I had trouble onsighting this route with the crux clip as well. (I thought it was clip #6 - the one on the face, above the sloping crack, right before you go around the arete.) My right hand was in the sloping crack, left hand on the little side pull and no feet... I discovered the crux clip is actually ok for a 5'7" climber with 0 ape index if: Clip easier bolt #4 (I thought it was #5). Left hand on farthest left chalked hold, sideways crimp pocket. Approximately 1 foot left of the sloping crack. Approximately 1 foot left of the vertical flake/edge. Left foot flags out left. Right foot finds a little pocket underneath. Reach up and right about 4-5 feet to the clip, clip it. Reset body position, breath, clip rope. Then reset left hand to vertical flake/edge, move right hand over on sloping crack and throw for jug. Excellent route, Richard!
Nov 8, 2006
I just climbed this today. Awesome route and my first 12a. I found the 5th bolt to be difficult to clip as well. I did notice there is a high foot out to the left (flat horizontal spot that's triangular) when you're moving into the crux. It's a pretty big foot but difficult to hold. Using it was the only way I was able to make that 5th clip.
Nov 23, 2005
Richard's story is a prime example that one should always know how to use the equipment one is carrying, and that hanging on a rope is no place to experiment if you don't know how to use it properly.
Jul 23, 2005
Great story Richard. I love reading this kind of stuff. I'm sure you have more interesting FA stories (hopefully not too many like this one!) you could share on this website.
Jul 22, 2005
Regarding the bolts along the overhang. Folks comment that the arrangement is weird and somewhat hard to clip. This is because I set up this otherwise very cool route alone during the winter of 1996. I couldn't find anyone (even Bonnie) to go up and belay me in the snow (and it was snowing), so I went up alone as usual, rapped from a tree on the upper ledge and set the ring anchors that are in use today. I pulled the rope, threaded the rings and rappelled to the talus. Using a Petzl Shunt I climbed the route and marked the bolts without the luxury of a belay. At the crux, I blew out and fell away from the rock on the Shunt. I could not reach the wall again, so I thought maybe I could rappel with the Shunt by pressing in against the gate. I discovered that a Shunt is either on or off, you cannot rappel with a Shunt. So I fell free to the talus and landed on my back. I was just lying there with the snow falling in my eyes. I thought sure I was injured. I moved my arms, my legs, my head and seemed to be OK. I cautioned myself to be very careful getting up. "You cannot fall this far and be OK," I thought. But I was OK. Now you know why the route is called FREE FALL. I went right back up and finished marking the bolts with spots of chalk. I soloed back to the anchors from Disinclination with the drill and set the bolts. This, I think, should explain why one or two of the placements are sort of hard to clip. A few weeks later, after it stopped snowing, I went back with Bonnie and led the route for the first time. I thought those clips were difficult too. It is still a good route, no?
Jul 21, 2005
Since I'm a wimp, I clipped the crux bolt a little early. Actually, if you try clipping it one move before you naturally would, the right hand is bomber, and the clip isn't that bad. Seemed better than clipping after moving up and right of the crux, because doing so is pretty committing. Again depends on whether or not you want to take the fall down and left. Nice route. Don't miss the little toe-in spot for your left foot at the crux.
Jul 16, 2005
I was thrilled to have onsighted this route a few years back. Before I went up, I decided there was no way I was gonna clip that one bolt till late and I was glad I waited. Good advice, so take it. bobl
Jun 21, 2004
Excellent!!!!! The jug is good go for it!!!
Jun 20, 2004
Fun and short bouldery climb up a clean and aesthetic arete.
May 4, 2004
I agree with Chris. Hard to onsight because of the location of the bolt at the crux. The bolts are literally 3-4 feet apart through most of the middle section, so it's hard to believe that one could be in a bad place... but yet there it is. As it is, the 5th bolt can only be clipped from smack in the middle of the crux... once the draw is hanging, it can be clipped by tall people before engaging the crux. For the onsight, the best option would be to skip the clip and finish the crux, then clip the 6th bolt, risking a nasty swinging fall.
Mar 24, 2004
A fun and photogenic pitch on generally excellent holds. The crux involves a short section getting to the arete where the feet run out. The two bolts at the crux are very close and seem to be oddly placed. Clipping the second one is one of the hardest moves on the route. Perhaps it would have been better to have placed one bolt lower and out right in place of the 2.
Oct 20, 2003
- Incline Club
There are one or two runout sections on the slab section of this climb.
Aug 30, 2017
One of the anchors had a loose nut. I hand tightened it, but it really needs to be tightened down with a wrench. I'll bring one with me in the future, as Isle of the Dead to the right on Wall of the Dead was missing an anchor hanger and nut!
Jun 2, 2013
My friend's second lead of any kind, and she did NOT have a good time with the friction and runout between bolts. She got it done though. Enjoyable 5.7
Jul 23, 2011
Got to second Ivan's comment, but I'd give the climb more credit for quality than others. It is good for the range of difficulty that it is in.
May 14, 2007
Another good moderate climb on this slab. A full grade harder than Disinclination, so that pegs this at about 5.6. Let's be real with these ratings! Does anyone really think these two slab climbs are anywhere near 5.8? Can someone who can follow these routes at near their limit, follow, say, Cozy Hang, East of the Sun, The Owl, Cussin Crack, the Cob Rock 7s, etc., to name some Boulder Canyon 7's? I don't think so. (I'm saying following, to avoid the issue of gear).
Nov 2, 2003
About 5 feet above the rap anchors, just over the top edge of the slab and on a wide platform, there is a second set of bolts (without rap rings) if you want to belay your second from the top more comfortably.
Oct 28, 2003
Seeing recent discussions of the star system on the site, and climbing this route today gave me occasion to consider how I evaluate climbs. I thought that Inclination was certainly worth doing, but I don't know that I'd recommend it to people. I thought it was about as fun as Lothlorien down the hill at the Watermark, although the views were much better on Inclination. I'd have to give it one star, maybe two. I've generally considered the stars to mean as follows: 3 stars: I loved the climb, plan to doing it again, and rave about it. 2 stars: I enjoyed the climb, would recommend it to people, and might do it again (but wouldn't seek it out). 1 star: I thought the climb was worth doing once, but I probably wouldn't recommend it. 0 stars: I thought the climb was a waste of my time. I'd agree that comparing a one pitch sport route in Boulder Canyon to a multi-pitch classic in Eldo doesn't make much sense. In my mind, that's because I find myself in a different frame of mind, and having different expectations, when I go to each place. When I go to Eldo, I know I need to be feeling good and confident because the gear might be tricky, and figuring out the moves, and committing to them, might take a lot of my mental energy. But when I go to Boulder Canyon for sport climbing, I'm thinking more about feeling myself move over the rock, and I have little concern about the protection, or about taking a long fall. I might be more inclined to push my physical limits, since my self-doubt and fears are easier to keep in check there. The two areas simply CAN'T be judged against one another. My enjoyment and satisfaction are different in each place.
Oct 25, 2003
Bolts are well placed, but for a beginning leader I think this one would be quite scary. It's not bolted like a slab hand drilled on lead, but it's not sewn up by any means- expect 12-16 feet from bolt to bolt.
Jul 13, 2003
RR calls this Incline Club, 5.8; see Tomb of Sorrows comment.
Sep 27, 2002
Nice route that is well protected. A great beginner sport lead.
Sep 10, 2002
- Midway
I didn't feel as though this line was worthwhile really. Not a fun beginner line, the gear really isn't all that great and I was looking, the crack isn't so much a crack as it is a flared feature, and it's really rather 'gunky.' I suggest you climb Disinclination instead.
Jun 25, 2005
- Moomin Papa's Little Adventure
So short as to almost be a boulder, but for the bad landing. No less, bad enough holds to pack a punch even at 25' tall.
Jun 22, 2013
- Ripcord
I personally thought this was harder than Free Fall next to it. The onsight crux was dancing around trying to figure out best way to clip bolt after roof. Fun overall.
Sep 12, 2017
Soft 12a, but I think that's a fair grade. May feel easier if you're about 6' or taller (or have an equivalent ape index). Really fun, gymnastic movement! 4* moves but can only give it 3* because it's so short. I found it much easier to skip the 4th bolt, as it's a fairly strenuous clip and the fall onto the 3rd bolt if you don't stick the deadpoint is totally clean (I checked, several times).
Aug 16, 2015
I am 5' 5", did not need to deadpoint, and definitely did not dyno...if you use good feet and the holds on the left...technique will see you through....
Oct 14, 2013
Fun route. Would be a good first 12a as it is well-protected and there aren't really any brutal moves on it. Probably the only knock against it is that it is quite short, but it still packs in some good climbing.
Jun 19, 2013
Beware of TR-ing this. My rope either got rubbed against an edge or got stuck in an undercling above the roof, but I had to cut 15 feet off.
May 3, 2012
Deadpoints are necessary as you are off balance the whole time, but no need to dyno. Only beta I can give is to not clip the third bolt. The fall is safe unless you fall while pulling rope for the 4th bolt, which probably won't happen because the clipping hold is a huge jug.
Aug 21, 2010
I tried to lead this route but kept falling trying to get established above the roof, which led to some nasty swings. It is very easy to set up a tr on the bolts on the slab above. Once on tr I really think the deadpoint to the jug is the onsight crux, but it really isn't that far of a move.
Aug 16, 2009
definately a little easier for the people with the wingspan. i'm 6'1" and the moves weren't all that hard but a little pumpy. shorter people might have a little harder time but for me it probably went around 11c. jus remember that grade doesn't account for people's height. definately a cool route to project, not too hard to set up the top rope (draws are pretty close together, aside from the techy slab). enjoy!
Jun 12, 2009
haha ignore the crimpy crystal rail above the third bolt...as well as the huge side pull to the left and slightly below the jug. now...jump!
May 18, 2009
My first 5.12 as well. Definitely did not use the right hand finger lock, nor did I do a dyno anywhere. Could NOT reach the right hand after the sidepull, so used the left out left then a right hand facing left right above it, then mantle. Topout that way is pretty smooth-although sketch. I think there is lotsa different beta for this route.
May 27, 2008
I would consider myself average height (5'10" with a 0" ape index), and nowhere on this route did I find a move that would be even close to requiring a dyno or a deadpoint. That said, what's the beta for the lunge? Which holds are "off"?
Aug 15, 2007
Second bolt needs tightening. The nut can be removed with your fingers. Might need some Lock-Tight.
Sep 24, 2006
This is a good route/boulder problem. In my opinion, it is a million times better than Freefall.
Aug 17, 2006
My first 5.12! I pulled the crux statically by having my feet high on the wall - there's a great, little, angled band of sharp rock to the left of the 3rd bolt that makes it easier to reach the jug if you're short like me. It's a nice short route.
Jun 27, 2006
Agree that this seems easier than 12b. The "dyno" from the sidepull can be done statically, just barely, for guys of average height. It's a jug when you get there. I thought the hardest part was pulling onto the slab above. This is a fun route. Thanks, Richard, for putting it up.
May 20, 2006
I'm not quite sure if this is a 12, but I'll allow myself to be convinced to pump up my ego. The climb is short but is pretty strenuous. The fingerlock at the bottom is better than you think: use your right hand in it with the index finger at the bottom. It locks in there pretty well, or at least enough to get the left hand to the next ledge. The crux for me is matching my hands on the little ledge above the third bolt and then getting my left hand to the bomber sidepull. Then I can take my legs completely off and set them up for the dyno. With the sidepull and your right foot in the proper location, the dyno is easy and not that much of a dyno. Then you are on a big ledge with just a slightly tricky section to follow before the anchors. Some people use intermediates to avoid the dyno, but I think it makes it harder. I originally used a sequence that took me to the right and avoided the dyno, but I felt that was off-route so I abandoned that tack.
Sep 26, 2005
In response to the AC: "No move harder than V3". I agree, but when you have five or so 11+ moves in a row, ratings usually increase a little higher than 11+. For example, in Indian Creek there are tons of routes that might not have a move harder than 5.10, but the route is rated 5.11 because of the sustained nature. A couple old school guys were out there today, and they thought it was 12 a/b.
Jul 16, 2005
11d, no move garder than V3... unless you miss the big-ol' sidepull out left. Super fun.
Jun 30, 2005
Despite its length this route kicks a....
Jun 20, 2004
FA update. Bob and I toproped this route together in 1996. We never got back to it. During the summer of 2000, I returned with Bonnie Von Grebe, placed the bolts and led the route for the first time.
Oct 26, 2003
- Strange Science
Today I led a variation to this; at the 4th bolt (after the crux "big move"), plug some small cams (green C3, red C3), lurch left on good holds, and make a hard move onto a decent ledge. Continue up the crack placing small cams on good finger locks. 5.11+ and a bit of contrived added fun to an already good zone.
Oct 20, 2017
Quite easy for taller people and considerably more difficult for shorter people. V2ish crux if you are tall and V4ish crux if you have to throw off a heel.
May 16, 2017
Height-dependent for sure, but not frustratingly so. I'm 5'4", my beta was very different than that of my 5'9" friend. Feels like .11d for me.
Mar 24, 2015
Amazing and varied climb on perfect granite. Fun footwork on great crimps turns into a brilliant boulder problem at the 3rd and 4th bolt. After a good rest out left, commit to the steep and complex mantle top-out. A key right hand sidepull up and right over the lip makes the 6th clip a whole lot easier. A must-do.
Nov 28, 2014
I absolutely loved this route. One of the better routes I've ever done and def. the best thus far in the canyon. However, I thought Bob Antonio's rating of .11d was right...for me anyways...but I am 5'6" and with a short arm span...had to kind of dyno for that crimp.
Jun 17, 2011
Tried it for the first time today. Fell 3 times amongst the 4th and 5th bolts. Super fun line that is well protected...here you can really focus on the moves. This route was really fun, and I will definitely be there time and time again to get it straight!
Oct 24, 2010
Would agree w/ Clayton as a superb route for Avalon. Not only is the crux move super fun & aesthetic w/a great cross, but the climbing leading up to it flowed very nicely on good edges I thought. Great moderate .11
Sep 4, 2007
Best route I've done in Avalon. Thought is was easier than 11c, but the movement was great. Grabbed that crimp with the left and crossed with the right hand to gain the jug. I'm only 5'9", so I wouldn't say it's height-dependent. Great fun!
Aug 12, 2007
Yes, it's difficult if you're shorter. At 5'7", I could just barely reach the crimp at the crux but was able to pull through finally with the right sequence of moves and careful balance. Very nice route!
Jun 4, 2006
Maybe the best route I have done at Avalon. It seemed closer to what I'd expect at the grade, and pulling directly through the last overhang (need not go right as mentioned in a previous comment) was a surprising and fun finish. What great little holds! Might be really hard for short folks or short-armed folks.
Jul 27, 2005
Not sure whether your description says to go to the right at the last bolt in the photo (kind of sounds like it), but the best move on the route is to the left of the bolt, it's a dynamic (at least for me) reach to the left side of the lip. This is a great route, I wish I had the endurance to send it all at once, but I fell off of the lip the first try, after a short rest I got it fine. I also recommend climbing all the way to the anchors right below the steep headwall at the top of the slab. Kind of run out, but easy and fun. An extra 40 feet of climbing and one bolt (the bolt is just below the anchors and is part of Disinclination). Three stars for Boulder Canyon.
Sep 7, 2004
Excellent route. Continuously interesting and difficult. Certainly 3 stars for Avalon. I'm not sure how to grade route quality on these crags. Is it better to grade quality compared to the routes on the crag or routes in the area? I had been grading them based on other routes in the area, i.e., Boulder Canyon. If graded compared to other routes at the crag, in my opinion, this pitch warrants 3 stars as does Free Fall, Ripcord, Chairman of Board, and Clipboard.
Oct 20, 2003
- Supernatural
Great all-gear route! PG-13 with a set or two of Aliens and small offset cams. I took the contrived but fun indirect start next to the bolts, but you could also use a dirty direct start in a lichen-covered corner just to the left.
May 16, 2017
Hands down, the best route at Middle Tier. Three dimensional climbing, spicy runouts, cool transitions as you work around the arete... this route has it all. Way better, IMHO, than Strange Science, Riptide, or Freefall.
Jul 21, 2013
I didn't use any additional gear. The guidebook says to bring a few small cams. They may be useful between bolts 3 and 4 and 4 and 5 if you are shorter. For me, a fall before clipping bolt 4 would have been a hard swing into the wall below, and I couldn't reach bolt 5 from the ledge. I also had difficulty reaching some of the holds in bolts 6 to 7 section. I suspect those who are shorter are the ones who rate the climb 11. If you are taller, it will seem easier.
Jun 3, 2013
This is a great route. I found the bottom three bolts to be thought provoking and balance intensive; while the top is powerful for an onsight. As far as the grade, I'd say it's .11a if Free Willie is, which I found to be considerably less difficult.
Sep 11, 2012
This climb is not to be missed. Interesting climbing the whole way, and while the bolted crack probably detracts from the climb, most people would just skip it rather than bring one piece of gear, so it seems justified. Interesting moves up top with insecure feet on steep terrain, but it's definitely all there.
Jun 10, 2010
I am short, Alien not needed. High left foot and and good crimp in the crack allows to go up, clip the bolt and lower back down to the restful stance. The move is secure and quicker than placing an Alien a foot below a bolt.
Jul 14, 2008
Good route with varied climbing. Even a little bit of finger crack underclinging. Not an 11 but still a worthwhile climb to do. CL
Sep 2, 2007
One of the best lines at the cliff! A TCU/Alien just below the 5th bolt is comforting if you're too short to make the clip from the ledge.
May 26, 2007
Young Doug...[Didn't] know the name when we did it. Thought it to be .10c/d-ish. Maybe my ape-index helps, but certainly there are no moves here that would be considered .11a..again, I must consider other benchmark routes at the grade. I am not a cutting-edge climber, but have 20+ years climbing in the Boulder area. I say that to lend some credentials to my stance on the grades. I would say this is a nice pitch, and well worth doing if you are up there..after all Boulder Canyon is a lot about quantity of routes in a day.
Sep 23, 2005
Pretty solid climbing and probably like most at the cliff in that it is over graded at least a tad. Nice climb though, with good rock and fun moves. A lot of variety in the holds and moves keeps it interesting. Could get pumpy if you spent a lot of time trying to figure it out.
Jul 27, 2005
This route is awesome and a must-do if you're at the Avalon. I don't know why it wouldn't get at least 2 stars. There's 2 bolts that are not necessary, as gear will protect their moves but the climbing is awesome.
Nov 8, 2004
I placed green and yellow Aliens between some of the bolts. When there are cracks I bring gear, even on sport climbs. (Explaining, not complaining, although a couple of the bolts are unnecessary.)
Oct 25, 2003
- Tomb of Sorrows
It would appear that this route now has its own rap anchors above those for Incline Club. Beware of loose blocks on the ledge that leads to the anchors.
Aug 30, 2017
Pretty meh honestly. The direct start is thoughtful and fun but very short, and the slab is no harder than 5.5. The crux is between the first and second bolts.
Sep 15, 2015
As a bit of additional information, it appears that a lot of the bolts Richard Rossiter used up at Avalon are actually 10mm and not 3/8". These bolts use a 10x1 nut which is the reason why my 3/8" nuts wouldn't work on the hangerless bolt. Luckily, McGuckin's carries the 10x1 nuts in both SS and plated.
Jun 4, 2013
Ron Olsen and I replaced the first bolt on the arete start. We wanted to use the original stud/bolt, but the threads were damaged and a new nut could not be put, safely, on the existing stud.
May 30, 2013
First bolt on arête start is missing its hanger as of 5-22-2013.
May 23, 2013
I feel like the start is more like 5.7, and the slab above more like 5.4. The only thing that makes the start tough is that you can't really see your feet, but there are huge footholds through that section.
Jun 10, 2010
Richard Rossiter just added a new start to the route, up the arete left of the chimney. A steep 5.8 face move gains the slab, then it's a cruise up to the anchors. It's worth doing if the chimney is wet from recent rain. See Tomb of Sorrows. The new start goes up the arete at 5.8; the original start stems up the chimney at 5.9. for details.
Jul 7, 2005
- Tarot Wall
- Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The
Wonderful line. Agree with the above posters that the traverse at bolt 5 is the crux.
Aug 1, 2013
I guess I can't give myself the true onsight, since I climbed more of the arete on the top as opposed to the lieback crack which is apparently what was intended. The bottom climbing was delicate, and pulling the roof was pretty stout. Overall, a good route, not as good as its neighbors The Devil or Fapanese Direct. The top is definitely a bit contrived given that you can stay slightly right on the arete and make the whole upper half feel pretty casual. Good route though and worth getting on....
Sep 4, 2012
The fierce 11+ laybacking up top--regardless of how you take it, left or right---is indeed a spank-a-thon. But mostly because you've spent yourself trying to get established under that hanging arete after you pulled the 11- roof. That 4th to 5th bolt traverse is certainly the crux. And don't bother TRing this beaut'. The falls are casual swinging affairs. (I would know--took many of them), and once you hit the jug WAY up 'n' left, business hours are over and it's all good, so long as you brought extra arms.
Jun 19, 2012
The section by the 3rd/4th bolts is unquestionably the crux, unless people are climbing the crack 4 feet to the right on the Devil. Solid 5.12 when you stay on the bolt line here. The description above calls the arete up high the crux, whereas I thought that part was only 11+/12-.
May 8, 2011
Matt, thanks for posting the info on these two rtes. I was up @ Avalon today and was wondering what the new lines were. This one in particular looks really nice. Thanks for your time and effort to put them up. BA
May 4, 2008
- Devil, The
^^^^ I noticed the bolts seemed like they needed love when I was up there a month ago, so awesome Greg, thanks. I will try and remember to dump some change in the ASCA bucket when I get a chance.
Sep 23, 2017
The first bolt and the seventh bolt were spinning bolts (not just spinning hangers which is no big deal - the actual bolt was spinning). Both hangers were a bit out from the rock too. Replaced both of those today with glue-ins, the first with a large Twisted Leg bolt (316 ss), the seventh with a Fixe Hely (Duplex 2304 stainless steel aka PLX). I managed to pull the first bolt cleanly and re-use the hole, but the seventh bolt broke at the neck (after a lot of work), so a new hole was needed (the old hole was patched). The right bolt at the anchor also spins if you try to tighten it with a wrench, but it doesn't move at all when weighted straight out, and considering how difficult it was to remove the spinning pro bolts, I can't imagine any scenario where the anchor bolt could fail.
Sep 22, 2017
As with every sport route I've led, so long as I'm within arms length of the bolts, then I am on route.
May 26, 2013
Worrying about what's "on" or "off" is only going to tarnish the quality of this route, just pick the line that you like best and fire away! Searching out the easiest holds puts the grade on the easy side of 11 for sure.
Jul 19, 2012
I left a pair of cracked Ray Bans at the bottom of this route on Saturday the 18th of June, 2011. I would really appreciate if they found their way back to me. Thank you so much. My email is christopher.wilkinson@colorado.edu
Jun 18, 2011
Solid 11b or easy 11c IMHO. Previous comments about bailing right towards the gully at the flaring crack are dead-on. There are also some sidepulls left just above the horizontal sloper/crack which I'd say need to be off-route for it to be 11b. With a little wandering left and right, it's still probably 10c or 10d. Fantastic climb overall. Sustained with interesting moves. Bolting is very safe and well done.
May 18, 2009
I made the mistake of warming up on this. We didn't know what it was, but it looked fun. Talk about a flash pump!
May 17, 2009
Really fun route with good movement and good bolting. Agree it's more like 11b/c (and I went pretty much straight up at the end). Get on it!
Jun 5, 2008
Perhaps the nicest route we climbed today! Felt like 5.11b/c, not as hard as Chairman of the Board.
Jul 16, 2005
When I got on this I thought I was warming up on a 10d and looked at the top move and balked- I cheated right by grabbing an edge around the corner. Then I came down and did it direct and decided that it was pretty doable that way too, but the feet are somewhat poor. I think it was easy 5.11 (11a or 11b) if done directly through the flared crack, moderate 5.10 (10b or 10c) if cheating to the right up top. Regardless, fun and pumpy.
Jun 22, 2005
Look for a 6" tall, WAY overused 'cheater-stump' at the base of this climb. For .11d, it seems reasonable that the line runs straight through the flared crack at the top (look at Ron Olsen's third photo below), and not right then back left to the rings. Much easier to bypass the would-be crux if you do go right at the flared crack, then back left again at the rings.~Wm
Jun 22, 2005
- Earth Angel
Yes, there are two ways to climb this route. In September 2009, I redpointed this route & thought it was the easiest .12d I had ever done. My partner, Henry Lester, was working on this route moving onto the arête above the roof, at 6th bolt, & then following the arête. I tried this briefly, & it seemed quite hard. So I followed the seam up the face. Just past 7th bolt, the short, discontinuous hand crack provides a nice rest before the crux traversing left to the arête. Being tall, I am able to span from a sidepull on the seam to the arête. A shorter climber might still find this crux .12d, because they would have to hang on a tiny edge. The next section up the arête, past 8th bolt seemed 5.12, but soon I was able to turn the arête for a rest. There is still more hard moves to the last bolt.
May 26, 2015
I would give this route four stars but for the bolt placement leading into the crux.
Apr 7, 2015
I agree with Pinklebear. I think the FA party envisioned climbing the arete, but there ended up being an easier way up the face to the right of the bolt line. With that said, the crux for me was actually reaching the bolts to clip draws. Hanging the draws for me and sending was completely out of the question, I was nowhere near being able to reach. I actually had to extend a bunch of draws and ended up skipping some on redpoint, because I could barely reach the extendos I had set up. Clearly for me the crux was making the clips. All clipping aside, the route on the face flows very nicely and the transfer from the crack out right to the arete was very cool moves. The stone is very nice on this one and overall a great climb. Appropriately graded too, I thought it was a touch harder than the route to the right....
Sep 24, 2014
Got on this today, and I think it's a great line. I climbed to the right of the bolts then traversed to a good horn on the arête. I think 12d is a fair grade for it. Overall, a very aesthetic climb with great moves and an awesome position. Classic.
Sep 17, 2014
Pretty line but a bit nebulous. It seems bolted to keep you out left on the arete, but there is a good crack and sidepulls on the right, though these make clipping way out down and left kind of hairball. You can even get in a nice hand crack at one point and rest. At a certain point, the bolt line forces you to come back left (at least high up, to the horn), though you could just keep going right with some trad gear. Maybe there is a more direct way left onto the arete lower down? Seems to be a little height/wingspan dependent. Didn't send but don't know if I'll be back....
May 5, 2014
I was confused by this line in the way Reboot mentions above. There seemed to be several places to traverse left to the arete from the crack above the first roof. We figured out at least three. It always seemed like the natural line wanted to take you up and right but the bolts to the left. Kind of nebulous but good rock at the very least.
May 5, 2014
Does anyone have beta for this rig?
Aug 4, 2013
I just got on the route today, and I will second Joe's comment about it being conditions dependent. It felt really hard in the heat. People might want to be aware that there is a little block with a couple of crimps on top of it that one uses just above the initial roof that felt a little hollow and scary. I don't know how much longer it will stay put.
Jul 3, 2011
Matt, I cleaned a draw on the route last weekend. I've sent you a PM.... I'm a little perplexed by the upper section of this route: there is a crack system on the right and the arete on the left, working either would offer good rest and easier moves. Is the point to just work the hard face moves?
Jun 20, 2007
I had to leave a QD on Earth Angel over the weekend. I dont think I am strong enough to get it back. If any one happens to get it down, I would love to get it back. Thanks!
May 20, 2007
I highly doubt that this didn't see a 2nd ascent for 9 years until last summer. This is a strikingly obvious line on a very popular crag. Not to mention that there are probably 100+ people living in the Boulder area at any given time who can climb the grade. Most people wouldn't report it if they had redpointed a 12+ route. As for the grade... the route is VERY condition dependent. When I got on this in July, I thought it was the hardest 12d that I'd ever been on. 30 degrees cooler this weekend and it felt like its grade. Nevertheless, this is certainly one of the best hard-12s in Boulder Canyon. BTW, if you manage to pull through the secondary crux (spicy) you will have no trouble doing the 5.10 finish without gear. Also, there is no tree below the route to hit if you fall.
Sep 18, 2006
Great pitch, there is a rest after pulling the roof, but then it is very sustained until the last bolt. I do not feel the need for supplemental gear after the last bolt, it eases off significantly.
Sep 5, 2005
My partner and I did this route a few years back. Did not realize it had only a first ascent. Gear at the end is strongly recommended! We took some killer falls onto the tree below. Hard moves over the roof and sustained slab moves up the arete. Nice to hear it was 12d and not us climbing so poorly!
Aug 30, 2005
- Fapanese Direct
Hey Michalm, it's been a bit since I've been on it, but for the roof, when you get the first bad sloper for right hand, I jack my right knee up and slot in a kneebar next to the right hand sloper. At this point, if you get the knee good, it's a game changer, and you can reach over the lip. I'm fuzzy on specifics, but mess around with the kneebar. It worked very well for me, I thought it made a burly V4 feel V2 if you fit the kneebar.
Jul 25, 2017
No idea how to pull the roof to the crimps. I was a few inches off everytime. Feel free to send me your beta. Everything after was really fun though. From the roof on was super pumpy. I thought I was going to fall the whole way up.
May 16, 2017
Wow what a good route. I can't believe it took me so long to finally get on it. A top notch route for Boulder Canyon. The roof felt improbable to me till I had the right beta. I've seen many climbers on this, and everyone does the roof differently. After the roof pull is another cruxy move, but it's nowhere near as hard as the roof. Then awesome sustained 5.11 to the top in one of the best positions in Boulder Canyon. Grade felt right on at 12c/d. I thought it was a touch easier than Earth Angel, only very different style.
Oct 28, 2014
Cool roof move to good face climbing in a flaring crack. Overall, pretty good!
Sep 24, 2014
This is probably the best route I've done at Avalon, although I haven't tried Earth Angel or anything on the upper tier. I loved the crux roof down low, and the climbing on the upper half is sustained and really good as well. One of the better pitches I've done in Boulder Canyon now that I think about it.
May 23, 2012
Can't really comment on the grade, as I didn't get it clean, but the description is very accurate. Cruxy roof (really cruxy getting established above for a non-flexible, semi-weak giraffe), and sustained, pumpy, technical climbing above. This is a really good route that isn't over until you get to the chains. Excellent find by the FA party.
Aug 16, 2010
Great route!
Sep 8, 2009
Thanks for putting it up. From the ground, I thought (hoped) the roof would be the business and the upper half would be more mellow. Nope. Spanked me. Nice and sustained. Very nice line.
Sep 28, 2008
Thanks for submitting this route! Still working the roof, this is a pretty stout route.
Aug 16, 2008
- Fool, The
I think this route is OK. The low crux is tricky and a little awkward, but the rest of the climb is nice. It's a good warm-up once you know the crux beta.
Jul 26, 2013
Two more routes have gone in and this is now the 6th bolted line from the left as you're looking at the second tier. BA
Jul 17, 2008
I thought this was a very enjoyable climb... somewhat similar to Wheel of Fortune (two climbs to the right), though with a slightly more bouldery start. Agree with Ron that the belay area is very narrow. If the leader fails on the first clip, leader and belayer can both tumble down to the creek. Consider anchoring for sure.
Aug 17, 2005
Yeah, sort of awkward and grungy down low... some nicer moves up above, though still a bit grungy up there, too.
Aug 1, 2005
Awkward climbing; my least favorite route on Tarot Wall. The ledge at the start is very narrow with a steep drop-off; consider anchoring the belayer to the nearby tree.
Oct 24, 2003
- Goat F***er
Matt told me a few key holds have broken off of this. I had to drag him out there to try the route, because he was convinced it was 11d. What a sandbag! I think it is solid upper 12. It is just as hard or harder than any of the other 12s at Avalon. One friend called it V8, but that is a little much. Not quite a 5.13.
Oct 27, 2015
.11d? Hardest one in Boulder Canyon. There's a scar where a flake pulled off. I wonder if that made a difference; I couldn't pull the move, felt harder than .12b.
Jul 24, 2010
Yikes, we did this last night after Free Fall and it felt substantially harder. Maybe I was just powered down by then but this felt like V5 at the time.
May 29, 2009
I pulled a brick-sized chunk up above the last (2nd) bolt. Doesn't look like there is much more that could come off though.
Jun 27, 2007
- Hanged Man, The
This climb is done at the second bolt, that's where the rap rings should have been, or it is a boulder option with a spotter.
Feb 24, 2009
The first move is fun, not a bad route overall. 2 stars. I'm 5'11" and I was able to do the move semi-statically, expect more problems if you are shorter.
Sep 21, 2008
Climb it on gear. Double rack to #0.75 Camalot will suffice. CL
Jun 5, 2008
This route is really silly. The move at the bottom is ok, but this is one move, and it deposits you on a grassy ledge, which you then walk up a bit to some irrelevant upper moves. I really don't see why this was bolted. Boulder the bottom move, it's not too high and the landing is fine.
Oct 8, 2005
One awkward move to an easy upper climb. It isn't bad enough to 'bomb' but it isn't good enough to bother with either. There are better wastes of time around. I suppose if every other route around is full, you can justify doing this one... 40' doesn't take long at least! As well, my partner referred to this as a "trad climb with bolts on it." It would take gear just fine, but at least it's not a singular and obvious crack.
Jul 23, 2005
- Horse, The
Kind of dirty in October '15. Gear is good enough. Go for it!
Dec 10, 2015
Today I inadvertently broke off a 70 lb. chunk that was the left side of the low starting jugs/first ledge. The remaining portion looks solid, but then again I thought the left side would hold my weight as well.
Sep 30, 2008
Not a bad route, and really not too hard. I don't know about 5.11... this seemed no harder than the starting move of the roof to the right (rated 10c).
Jul 23, 2005
We top-roped the route from the anchor on Wheel of Fortune. The moves past the bolt at the initial overhang were pumpy and hard to figure out. The cracks above the overhang were much easier. They felt like 5.8, but we were top-roping, not leading.
Jul 22, 2005
In retrospect, I think the route is probably about 5.11a. When you lead a new line for the first time it always seems more difficult than it actually is. The hardest move is probably getting stood up at the lip of the roof. Above this it is maybe 5.10a on killer jams and 5.9 after that. Climb all the way to a large (and stable) perched block at the level of the descending rings. Reach left and you have it. The Horse is fun. I can't wait to do it again. The route is named for the Knight of Cups in the Tarot, who rides a great white stallion above the cresting waves of a vast sea and holds the Grail in his outreaching arms.
Jul 8, 2005
- Lust
The lower section can be done with gear all the way till you reach the flared handcrack before the upper slab. Just take doubles from 0.4 to 0.75 and a few alpine draws. Gear is bomber!
Aug 30, 2015
In my opinion, the definition of a classic sport route. It's long and sustained with great moves the whole way, though the real winning feature is how varied the climb is. From the face moves to the hand jams to the dihedral, it's pure goodness every step of the way. Get on this. Edit: Andrew, your draws were MIA, hope you got them back.
Jun 22, 2014
Loved every second of this route. I don't think there's any 10d moves on it, but it's pretty sustained, and being pumped going into the 10a corner at the top means it's really not over until you clip the chains. For me, the crux was just after traversing left out of the alcove right of the bolt line. I thought this was a good bit harder than Marquis de Sade down below. On another note, I clipped the chains right as some nasty lightning came in. In a rush to get off, I left two alpine draws in the chains. If you find them in good condition, they're yours, though I'll give someone $5 bucks and beer to return them
Jun 5, 2014
I loved this route. Definitely a great, well-protected line perfect for anyone trying to boost their leading skills into the 5.11 realm. It is an entertaining, engaging route. It doesn't just "go up" but makes you think: Solid laybacks, fun footwork, and pumpy sections make this one a favorite in my book. Would call it a 5.10b/c relative to the other stuff in Avalon.
Jul 5, 2010
really fun climb. It's REALLY not 10d. no way. I led it in flip flops with only 2 falls and I'm not that bad ass.
Jul 22, 2009
Hangerless (mistake?) bolt just short of the the anchors? Cool climb. 10d seems too hard and 4 stars seems to many. But, then again, I don't like cracks :). Could easily lose some bolts and be a mixed route, but, whatever.
May 18, 2009
Fun route, quite a variety of moves.
Aug 3, 2007
I agree with Chad here. Climbing at the top is similar to the pin-ladder on Eldo's Yellow Spur. After I got back to the car, I kept saying "There's no WAY that's .10d!" By no means am I a ".10d climber" and I only hesitated once or twice on this route. I'd call it a .10b I think. If you're not a .10d climber, I wouldn't be afraid of this route. Many many bolts and the cruxes aren't that hard. At the top, follow the bolt line to the rings, don't wander right where the chalked ledges are.~Wm
Jun 22, 2005
Good but not 10d.
Aug 1, 2004
This is also my favorite line at Avalon. Thanks to Ron for the beta that helped me find this one. Climbed this between rain squalls on 7/5/04. The climbing is interesting and varied. It seems possible that you could climb this with half the bolts or perhaps without any bolts at all given the abundant cracks on the route.
Jul 6, 2004
Ron, I always find it interesting that people can have such different experiences on routes, really one of the values of this site. I certainly thought this route was harder than Marquis de Sade, you found the opposite to be true. Something came to mind after climbing in Eldo yesterday, this route would probably compare to 9+ there.
Oct 27, 2003
My favorite route at Avalon. Climb up into a little alcove, then make an exciting traverse left onto the face. Work up the steep face (10b/c) and climb a corner/slab (10a) to the anchors. The route is 90' long.
Oct 25, 2003
- Magician, The
I thought this might be more 5.10b (?) (via direct start by the two bolts) as I had to hang there before getting the moves (I'm currently more of a 10a onsight Boulder Cyn sport leader). I felt like there were three progressively easier cruxes--the first getting past the 2nd bolt, the second crux at the 3rd bolt (traversing slightly right on chossy rock might make it easier), and a third crux getting past the 4th and 5th bolts. Beware, the sixth bolt at the top of the climb, which will protect your second from a pendulum off of the anchors (which are off to climber's right), could be hidden if the plant that is up there grows out any more. I used a couple of medium stoppers and a few finger to hand-sized cams to protect between the bolts. Initially, to protect yourself as you work up to the first two bolts, you can put in a pretty bomber finger-sized cam while standing on the start ledge, go up and clip the two bolts, then come back down to clean the cam. Oh, and the supposed 5.9 variation just to the left (a corner) to start this might be a tad stiff...my buddy who followed had difficulties on it and he normally can cruise 5.9.
Jun 17, 2017
Did the 5.9 variation. Fun but a bit of a strange line. Lots of zig-zagging. Definitely bring a bunch of slings. You can sew it up in the beginning and in between the bolts. Still a large death block about 3/4 of the way up that will almost certainly fly straight at your belayer! Have fun!
Jul 6, 2016
Very fun moves. Pretty much as good as Lust and other ones closeby. 4-stars for lust and 1.5 for this?! Lol, there is some bias there of some sort.
Jun 5, 2016
Dale Haas and I went up there on 6/2/16 and put a new hanger, washer, and nut on the 5th bolt. We also tightened all the other bolts on the climb, so hopefully this won't be a problem in the near future. As far as the quality of climbing on the route...I think the climb is better and more fun doing it via the 5.9 handcrack start on the left.
Jun 2, 2016
5th bolt had no hanger on it, just threads sticking out! 5/26/16.
May 26, 2016
Rotten rock, loose blocks, a stupid finish, and lots of lichen make this a climb to avoid. Climbing straight up the bolt line at the start also seemed to be harder than any of the other 10s I've done at Avalon.
May 23, 2016
It definitely dirt, a lot of lichen up top, but still a fun route. I did the 9 and 10 start. I would call the 10 start a 10-, it didn't seem much harder than the 9 start, and before you know it you're back on the same route. I did like fact that it is mixed, placing gear increased the fun.
Jul 11, 2012
Might be fun if you like dirt, lichen, loose rock and death flakes. There isn't likely to be a wait.
Jun 21, 2012
Maybe the L hand start is better. But I thought that climbing up the line to the right side of the bolts was more than a little sketchy. Not so much that there's loose rock, more like there's huge sections where everything is simply decomposing. So long story short, it's not really cleaned up. There's even loose flakes/holds from the last ledge to the chains. Just a heads up.
Apr 22, 2012
I think the direct start on this one goes at about .10c . I don't really see the point in bolting only half the route, the addition of two bolts to this route would make it a much safer line. I actually climbed to the horizontal before realizing I needed gear. This was in part because I could see bolts higher up, and also saw the two bolts close together down low, so I figured it was well bolted. I would not be surprised if others made the same mistake.
Aug 14, 2008
With some traffic to clean it up, this will turn into a nice addition to Avalon. Several cruxes and nice variety. Kudos for leaving it a mixed route and not bolting the whole thing. Bring a couple of long slings, and save one for the last bolt (over the top), so the rope will run more smoothly to the anchors on the right.
Aug 20, 2007
Not the most aesthetic climb, but fun moves throughout. The bolt line for the top portion of the climb takes a hard left at the overhang and then comes back right again to the anchors. Best to use a long sling on your cam/nut placement before taking the hard left.
Jun 11, 2007
- S.I.N.
I'm not sure of this grade, somewhere between 9+ and 10+? Maybe HardCor will repeat it and tell me what he thinks? Yeah, it's a little dirty still since I didn't clean at all, but it's still good fun, if you like the high quality choss-a-neering kinda thing.
Aug 23, 2010
- Tower, The
Great climb. Really enjoyed it. I do not recommend rapping it when cleaning your draws. The route takes a bend to the left, and rapping off the anchors will put you way to the right on a bunch of them. Otherwise, it was a great warmup!
Jul 21, 2013
Great climb! It's got a little bit of everything, Slab, jugs, cracks, a roof pull, stemming action, and some more slab. Seems like it would finish after the roof but nope 5 more bolts! 60 meter seems fine for this climb.
Jun 30, 2013
Not bad at all.... Well bolted, back and forth route finding. I found the crux to be under the second roof within the tight squeeze of the dihedral. I was glad I did this after it was done and top roped it again and figured out the sequence without any pauses. Great Avalon classic. Dont forget to take advantage of the scenery, because I always forget.
Oct 9, 2010
I like this route but am unsure about the rating. I thought it was a 5.9, but my friend thought it was harder than the 5.10b near it. Maybe it is reach dependent? I have 6" arm reach on him, so maybe that's why. I thought this route was no harder than the 5.8s at Sport Park. I also thought the crux was at the 6th bolt, getting into that large chimney-like section. Either way, wonderful climbing. Be careful with a 60m rope.
Jul 5, 2010
I felt this one had some more awkward moves (reachy for me) than some of the surrounding 5.9s, so I would claim a 5.10a on it...really fun though! I took one fall trying to switch my right hand from a crack to the knob a bolt or two above the first roof section! Would do it again!
May 28, 2010
Definitely felt like 10a. And, did this with a 70 meter rope and had only 10 ft of rope to spare. If you're using a 60 meter, be sure to tie in or knot the ends.
Aug 21, 2009
If a slingshot belay is desired, the leader can be lowered just just left of the climb. This reduces the rope drag, but a belay at the anchors would be better. Also, to second the opinion, this would (and still could be lead as) an excellent trad climb.
May 28, 2008
Great route! Maybe it was the exposure, but the first move above the roof and into/up the right-facing corner felt at least 10a. Also, I would recommend the leader belay the second from the anchors as the rope runs right through a nasty crack at the top of the corner/second roof creating huge rope drag and cutting potential. There is plenty of space to belay from the anchors.
Jul 5, 2007
This is an excellent, moderate route, and I agree with Ron on its 10a rating. Kudos to Richard for establishing this splendid sector.
Aug 24, 2005
Good route. I thought the 10a crux was on the upper half of the route, pulling onto the face then up into the awkward right-facing corner.
May 7, 2005
This is a fun route and one of the best of its grade at Avalon. Bring a 60m rope; the route is 100' long. If you lower, be aware that the climbing line is well left of the lowering line, and the rope runs right over the edge of the roof. It's easiest to have the second clean the pitch while following. The hardest moves on the climb: at the 4th bolt below the roof and stepping right into the corner above the roof (crux). Seemed like 10a by Boulder Canyon sport-climb standards.
Oct 24, 2003
- Wheel of Fortune
We tried tightening the crux bolt a few weeks ago, only to discover that the bolt itself rotated, so you couldn't tighten it. So I replaced it today with a Fixe Hely glue-in (Duplex 2304 stainless steel, aka "PLX"). Had to drill a new hole since the bolt broke at the neck (after a lot of work trying to spin it out...).
Sep 22, 2017
The bolt hanger at the crux move to the arete is loose. If you have a wrench handy, a few twists would be welcome.
Sep 3, 2017
Big, loose block, right above the 3rd bolt if I remember correctly. If it fell, it would chop the rope for sure. Watch yourselves.
Aug 16, 2013
Though I thought most of this route was pretty lame, I fell in love with the crux, or at least the right side path. Everyone in my party did it differently, and we all had mixed feelings on the moves. If you're feeling a little freaky, go far right at the crux. It's a bit more balance focused, which gets me off.
Jul 5, 2010
I didn't do the route before the rockfall, but the move on the face was a bit harder than 10a, especially after doing Lust just before this route. Overall not really worth the time with many better climbs around. But I can agree to disagree.
Aug 3, 2007
I was surprised to read about rockfall on this route, as it is still fully intact as a one-move 10a sport route. However, that one move is interesting, making this not a bad warmup for something better like Lust.
Aug 2, 2006
Unfortunately, there is now only one option for the crux, and that's directly up the face. The 100 pound "pebble" now at the base of the climb used to be jug on the left traverse option. I believe this increases the grade now? I knew I should have skipped that third breakfast donut. Careful - the starting hold for this route is a little wobbly as well.
Jul 30, 2006
There seems to have been significant rockfall off this route, as there is a big scar below the crux headwall and lots of new looking boulders on the belay ledge. The remaining rock seems solid, and it is lucky the bolts are just right of the detachment area. Does anyone know when this happened? I hope the rocks came off naturally when no one was around.
Sep 12, 2005
This felt harder than Isle of the Dead.
Oct 27, 2003
Ivan said " a two star 80 foot sport route at Avalon must be as good as a two star multipitch Eldo route. And hence, I feel most sport routes rate only one star." I can't agree with this statement. I can have as much satisfaction from climbing a V3 boulder, or a 5 pitch 5.8, or a 23 pitch El cap route, or an 80' sport route. Climbing is climbing!
Oct 24, 2003
Ivan Rezucha wrote: "On the other hand, assigning stars on a per-crag basis isn't very useful. A crag could be crap compared to other nearby crags, yet it could have 2- and 3-star routes on it, because they are the best at that particular crag. When I look on this site for 3-star sport routes, I don't want to end up at this crap crag." I agree that star ratings should encompass a larger area than a single crag. I think it's useful to consider Boulder Canyon sport climbs as a group, and assign stars compared to other climbs in that group. I don't think it's useful to compare Boulder Canyon sport climbs with trad climbs in Eldorado. If that were the case, then I agree that most sport climbs in Boulder Canyon would merit no more than one star. When I visit a large crag like Avalon (56 routes), I want to know which routes are the best. Wheel of Fortune and The Tower are much better than Sex Slave (dirty), The Fool (awkward), and the Hanged Man (one-move non-wonder). If the latter routes deserve one star, then Wheel of Fortune and The Tower deserve two. I bring friends back to Avalon to climb Wheel of Fortune and The Tower; I don't bring them back to climb the other routes. Are these routes as good as two-star Eldorado routes? Of course not. Are these routes as good as other two-star Boulder Canyon sport routes? Definitely.
Oct 24, 2003
Ron Olsen said: "This is a two-star route by Avalon standards." Just how DO we assign quality ratings? Under Resources/Terminology /Route Evaluations there is no mention of assigning stars on a per-crag basis, so I've been assuming quality stars are assigned on a site wide basis, e.g., a two star 80 foot sport route at Avalon must be as good as a two star multipitch Eldo route. And hence, I feel most sport routes rate only one star. That's not good, since, if someone wants to climb sport in, say, Boulder Canyon, they want to know this: Given that I plan to climb sport in Boulder Canyon, which are the good routes? It doesn't matter that a 3 star sport route may not compare with Ruper, Yellow Spur or the Edge. On the other hand, assigning stars on a per-crag basis isn't very useful. A crag could be crap compared to other nearby crags, yet it could have 2- and 3-star routes on it, because they are the best at that particular crag. When I look on this site for 3-star sport routes, I don't want to end up at this crap crag.
Oct 24, 2003
The crux can be done in two ways: via a high step left onto a foothold on the arete, or by moving left around the arete, going up, then back right. This is a two-star route by Avalon standards.
Oct 24, 2003
- Three Dihedrals
- A Cheval
Dr. Joan Johns wants to name this route à Cheval.
Jul 8, 2017
- Common Denominator
Could be a great first trad lead. Super fun!
Jun 2, 2013
I stayed left of the bolts on the face. A good variation and a slight increase in difficulty.
Sep 19, 2010
I trundled the big loose block above and right of the third bolt today (Friday 5/19/06) while no one was around. Other loose rock on ledges was also cleaned up.
May 19, 2006
Some nice moves up the arete and the face. Hardest moves are at the second and third bolts. I used a #2 and #3 Camalot in the crack below the first bolt, and a #.75 Camalot between the third and fourth bolts. Warning: there is a big loose block above and right of the third bolt. It's ready to go, but there were too many people at Avalon today to trundle it. I will go back there on a weekday and launch it.
Apr 16, 2006
- Curvilinear
Not the greatest gear in the world. So sparse that my partner decided (wisely?) to climb the dirty crack to the right instead. There was no anchor at all on the tree. As of now, there is a single sling and carabiner that we left to lower. We did not do extensive recon to locate a walk-off. Definitely not worth the effort, in my opinion.
Jun 2, 2013
Sustained? We thought it was a 1-move wonder.
May 14, 2007
- Dihedral One
There is some "loose rock", but I would not say there is a lot .
Jul 17, 2013
At the risk of stating the obvious, there is a lot of loose rock on this pitch. Otherwise, I agree--would be a great first trad lead.
Jun 2, 2013
Good fun! Good holds, good stemming, decent exposure, excellent pro (med-to-large cams), and very easy for the grade. A good beginner trad lead.
Sep 2, 2011
Actually, it is a lot better than it looks and climbs well. The corner look dirty, but it actually isn't, and you don't really get that far into it anyway.
May 14, 2007
This is a very nice pitch. The corner is steep and sustained, and it has some neat stems, backsteps, and jams. Good pro the whole way. Belay from a small stance at the anchor or lower off. A great trad lead for someone breaking into 5.7.
Apr 16, 2006
- Dihedral Two
- Dom Perignon
Would call this a 5.9+ good gear and solid ring jams the whole way. A good lead for an aspiring trad climber, jush wished it was 2x as long.
Jul 16, 2016
For supplemental gear, I use a #0.75, and #1 C4, and the black Metolius curved nut.
Jun 3, 2013
As far as supplemental gear, I used a #1 and #2 Camalot, plus a yellow Alien.
May 21, 2007
Not as bad as it looks.
Dec 9, 2003
- Dominator
I think this is a phenomenal route. It certainly makes a great traditional lead, but as it stands, it's also a great bolted lead. Solid rock, great movement, and pumpy and punctuated with great stances. An ideal rack would be small stoppers, #0.3-#3 Camalot. Have at it. A great way to tack on an extra 20' is to start about 10 meters down and left, plug gear in the 5.10 cracks, traverse to the bolt on Dominatrix (long sling), and then step right into the 2nd or 3rd bolt vicinity of Dominator. Great trad route when done this way.
Oct 20, 2017
Bolts or no bolts, this route is classic. First time at Avalon and my favorite route all day. Fun climbing moves with great rests and a jug here and there. Get on it!
Jul 16, 2016
Sorry to say, but this place is now a Sport Park. Had another group on each side of me the entire time climbing here. Classic trad route with bolts. Makes me glad Eldorado has a bolting ban. I do enjoy clipping bolts once in a while, so I am glad Boulder Canyon has its own set of rules.
Jul 4, 2012
It looks like someone replaced the top bolt hanger. When I was there a week ago, people were climbing the route with all bolts as it used to be.
Jul 13, 2011
Great route. Lots of fun.
Jun 18, 2011
Actually the last bolt is still there with the nut on it, the hanger is what is missing. When we climbed it on June 24th, 2010, you could slip a thin wired stopper over the nut and between the rock and bolt so that the last few moves could be protected. Seems silly that the last bolt is unclippable since there are eight bolts on the route. Either chop it or don't...A GREAT climb!
Jun 24, 2010
Climbed this today, and the last bolt was not there. Made for some intense lead climbing-anchors are there.
Jun 18, 2010
This climb currently has a spinner bolt - the last bolt before the anchor.
Jul 12, 2009
Wow. So much bullshit on this comment list. This is one of my FAVORITE climbs in Avalon. Yes, it may not need bolts, or that many-but some of us do not trad climb, nor do some of us think that it is worth the risk to us (a personal decision). I would not be able to climb this without the bolts. Period. We are not all trad climbers guys. Some of us are sport climbers. Some of us are boulderers, and some of us are aid climbers, ice climbers...but we all love climbing. Take your negativity and selectiveness somewhere away from the rest of us.
May 27, 2008
We started on this when we were told it was a 9. Cool climb with good moves but it is more like 9+. Also, bring the trad rack and skip the bolts if you want because there is plenty of natural pro. [Edit 9/1/07] Climbed this on gear today without any problems. The bolts aren't necesary, but they don't bother me either. Gear (in order of placement) sling horn, grey Alien, 0.5 Camalot, green Alien, #2 ballnut, #1 Camalot, #2 Camalot, red Alien. Still felt pretty easy for the grade. PS. Sorry Richard, but this area is turning into a Sport Park. At least 30 people at Middle Tier today. It's a testament to good routes though; people want to climb them. We all appreciate your work and efforts. Cheers CL
Aug 12, 2007
GREAT route! Sustained, well-protected, and fun to climb. Clean, somewhat-overhanging fall lines make this a great route for the aspiring 10+ leader. -KT
Sep 26, 2006
After doing this route again today, found an easier sequence for the finish and now realize why the last bolt was unnecesary and hanger removed just below the chains. High reach left for the corner off the right finger lockout makes this finish easier, than working that right crack all the way up...fun climb.
Aug 28, 2005
The last bolt hanger before the chains was not there, making the last 7' rather spicy.
Aug 18, 2005
I got to do this route yesterday and really enjoyed it. It is an interesting sport route because of the finger cracks. There are no real cruxy moves, although there are a couple of points at which a delicated stance is required for the clip. The first time I led it I thought getting my fingers in the last crack to get to the anchors was the crux, but the second time I realized that a better foot placement makes this less difficult.
Jun 23, 2005
Well said Richard. Finally, a voice of reason. Agreed ... on all points Richard.
Sep 25, 2004
Regarding the route Dominator at Avalon, I am surprised to see so many comments posted for this route. I became fascinated with Avalon in 1996 while drawing topos of the routes Earth Angel and Black Tiger. Though overgrown and obscure, the crag (then unnamed) looked promising and had no other known routes. It was a serious bushwhack just getting to the bottom of the walls. But it turned out to be great place and I kept putting up routes there until my nearly fatal bicycle crash in November 2002. As for the Dominator, the wall was so dirty and exfoliated, climbing the debris-filled bits of crack seemed unreasonable...hence the bolts. After hundreds of ascents the route has cleaned up pretty well. Based on the posted comments, a few people seem upset about the bolts. I think the route (now) has too many bolts and I will be happy to remove some of them myself, but not all of them. The Dominator has become a popular climb as it is. It would disappoint many people if I removed all the bolts, and for nothing. Tony Bubb mentions that I was in Special Forces, which is true. I served three years in Special Forces during the Vietnam War and had several of my friends blown to smithereens in places that weren't in the news. Perhaps some of these guys complaining about bolts should try out for Special Forces. If they can make the cut, they might get a lesson in reality and find out what matters in life and what doesn't. Having been all the way out on the edge and come back alive, I would suggest that the arrangement of bolts on a climbing route is pretty trivial stuff. By the way, I never envisioned this crag as a sport park and I hope it never becomes one. See Crack Land, Blade, The Horse, Tunnel of Love, et cetera. Cracks are good, yes? Richard
Sep 24, 2004
I Emailed Rossiter and asked his opinion, but it bounced. His Email changed since the last time I talked to him. I think it will be for the better if he does comment, then we can all debate the facts with that in light, not impressions of what might have been.
Sep 17, 2004
Rossiter did Dominator in 2001. He put in Eight Miles High at Sleeping Beauty in 2000. He says this of Eight Miles High: "I would like to comment on the superfluous bolts just right of the initial crack. As you may know, I have cleaned, set up and led hundreds of new routes along the Front Range in Colorado. It has never been my practice to bolt usable cracks. Looking back at this route now, I don't know what the hell I was thinking. If these bolts are offensive to most people, I will be happy to remove them myself. " Perhaps Richard regrets also the bolts on Dominator. As for cleaning the route justifying bolting, how much cleaning, if any, was necessary? There were at least several trad routes climbed at Avalon prior to Rossiter developing the crag. I doubt if those trad lines were cleaned top down. And, if Dominator did not need cleaning, perhaps it had been climbed trad previously. See Life on Mars on Wake Up Wall/Lost Angel/Dream Canyon for just one example of an unreported trad climb that has since been bolted.
Sep 17, 2004
I may have jumped to the lowbrow when I said Jackass, but hey, that's what I thought, and Richard is an adult. I'm sure he understands where I'm coming from - he's been in the climbing game long enough to know the decision he was making when bolting next to a crack was not going to be praised by everyone who climbs his legacy. I now live in the PNW and at the crags in Washington, BC, etc, the need to clean a climb before it can be sent doesn't have the mystique it seems to have here. As if the act of cleaning a crack of dirt or prying loose rocks from a climb somehow transforms the climb into some kind of "style free" zone. Hardly. At Index (near where I live in WA - awesome granite climbing btw) the vegetation is so severe and fast acting that almost yearly cleaning is needed or the forest retakes the climbs. Yet the need to clean a climb doesn't mean that it's then free to bolt up - nay, it just means the cracks will now accept cams or stoppers, and climbers or belayers (hopefully!) won't get a granite sandwich when on the climb. For whatever reason, Rossiter chose to bolt this climb and the act of cleaning does not negate this breach of style. I really do enjoy many of Rossiter's climbs. This, however, is not one of them.
Sep 16, 2004
I agree that this route is overly bolted; with or without the crack features, but it is a very fun climb. Here's my question for Joe and everyone else who feels the same way: Why does chipping a hold offend you so much but cleaning "hundreds of pounds" of rock and dirt from a "climb" warrant congratulations and praise? Are there not billions of organisms (plant, insect, animal, etc.) living in the rubbish that needs cleaning? Aren't you still altering the rock and your "climb" to suite your style and needs?
Sep 15, 2004
Richard Rossiter put in the time and effort to do the FA of this route the way he wanted it done. It has been enjoyed by many people since then. If you don't like the route, then you should have done it first, the way YOU wanted it done. And no, it's not too late. There are still plenty of "trad" climbs waiting for you out there - it just takes work - so don't complain after somebody else has done it. And that's the real problem: it's easier to flap your gums on a website than to go out and do a first ascent, particularly if you know hardly anybody will enjoy your "trad" route.
Sep 15, 2004
Charles- I agree, a bolted splitter is about the most repulsive thing I can think of.Dominator is far from splitter, though it does have crack features that perhaps could have best been left for natural pro. Kirk- I agree that any action is open to criticism. What raises flags for me and prompted my response, is the incredibly overly self-important and myopic view of climbing that a lot of people on this site seem to display on a regular basis. One poster used a tone reserved for criminals and cheats, then backed off when he realized he was calling Rossiter out.A little overblown for a short Avalon route don't you think?
Sep 15, 2004
I totally agree with Joe. People forget about all the work that goes into getting the routes in good enough condition to climb. It may have been so dirty that you couldn't have wiggled your widgets in the cracks in 2001. As for Charles comment, we're not talking about splitter cracks here, and I again I agree with Joe and AC, aside from chipping, that if you want the line done in your own fashion, go clean it, lead it, and publish it. It's that simple! It's not about sport climbing or leave it. It's about getting off your complaining butt and doing some work yourself. The majority of new routes going in aren't bolted cracks and are done in "good" taste. Fellow AC, you beat me to the punch. P.S. You're a jackass to call Richard or anyone that, Mike W.
Sep 15, 2004
Sure, up until now the route had not been climbed, but just because nobody had done the work to clean it doesn't mean it's free and clear for people to do anything without criticism. Another point. I reserve the right to disagree with people who bolt cracks, while at the same time thanking them profusely for the really great, fun routes that they've put up and all the incredible work they've done. It's a little like being told "sport climbing, love it or leave it" and I think it's a little unfair. It looks like this route (like Headline on the Little Eiger) has been overbolted, though I bet it's fun to climb.
Sep 15, 2004
Joe, I more or less agree with you, except it's not all that clear to me why you make an exception for chipped holds. Personally (speaking in general terms), a bolted splitter would bother me more than a route with chipped holds. Not feeling argumentative--just curious.
Sep 15, 2004
From boulderclimbs.com:FA- Richard Rossiter and Von Grebe, 2001 I'm not justifying bolting cracks, but again, just like for Little John's Big Stick, some Boulderites have the uncanny knack for losing all sense of perspective. Michael, Stefan, etc- don't you think there must be a reason why this wasn't climbed trad pre-2001? Because it was likely a hanging pile of choss, which only became a climb once several hundred pounds of loose rock were cleaned. It's still a one-star route at a one-star crag, and in my mind, if someone is willing to put the time and effort into a route like this, then they can develop it in the style they see fit (sans deliberately chipped holds, of course).
Sep 15, 2004
Hey Bob, Boy, if it is Rossiter who put this up, this is out of character with so many fine mixed routes he's done. Say it isn't so!
Sep 15, 2004
Here we go again ... Good style Stefan. If you feel like the bolts are unnecessary, place gear and ignore them like Stefan did, and most importantly don't let it ruin your day or lose sleep over it. There are just as many people who will be very happy to put those bolts to use, even if you don't ... AND I'M NOT ONE OF THEM.
Sep 14, 2004
I climbed this route last weekend. I started up and clipped the 1st bolt, then looked up at the remainder of the route, cleaned my draw and downclimbed. I couldn't clip the bolts in good conscience, especially after my girlfriend carried a rack of cams up to the crag! I grabbed a single run of cams and a few nuts out of the pack and headed up. I ignored the bolts and placed 7 pieces of gear, all bomber, ranging from green Alien size to #3 Camalot size. I could have easily placed more, but 7 pieces was actually feeling a bit excessive. There are 8 unneeded bolts on this climb!
Sep 14, 2004
Nice route, but I was disappointed with the excessive use of bolts. Spacing bolts 2 or 3 feet apart on a steep face like this doesn't make much sense, and completely removes any sense of exposure or excitement. There was also excellent natural protection available, making one wonder why the bolts were there at all. Maybe it's too late, but I hope this area isn't becoming another Sport Park.
Apr 20, 2004
I thought this was hard. I was expecting 10a based on Rossiter. I was self belaying, and struggling with what that entails took its toll, and I ended up hanging twice. Unlike most of the other sport climbs I've been on at Avalon, the rating of this one seems pretty real. However... this would have been even better as a trad climb (speaking as a trad climber--of course all you sport-only clilmbers may disagree). There is excellent gear everywhere except near the top of the initial corner. Even there there is gear, but you have to look around a bit, and it may be a bit funky. Climbing it trad (not that many would, but you could) may bump up the difficulty a letter grade or two.
Nov 14, 2003
Good for struggling 10 leader since bolts are very close together. Super fun tradesque climbing, in fact the route could go with no bolts, just good gear. Seems to have cleaned up, I didn't notice much loose.
Jul 13, 2003
This is "Dominator", FA: R. Rossiter and B. Von Grebe. Richard calls it 10a so let's split the difference... say 10b. Steep and pumpy, it is a bit sandy with some suspect flakes but should clean up okay. "Dominatrix" (of course) is the mixed route to the left (one bolt?).
Sep 15, 2002
- Dominatrix
Climbed this route today - I thought it was a good route, but it will be better when it gets cleaned of the lichen and some loose gravel.
Mar 14, 2009
Did the "10a" variation. Felt about 5.9. Pretty close to a bomb route. The 5.8 variation to the right (with the bolt) looks like the better choice. The rock on the cracks is grungy and questionable. I angled slightly left to hit the arete, then back right on a "slab" to rejoin the other variation at a fist crack. The upper dihedral is a little dirty, but at least it's not going to fall off on you.
Nov 14, 2003
- Pillar
Definitely boltless and anchorless. I ended up climbing to the anchors for Dihedral One (not recommended, massive rope drag). I think there's one or two 5.7 moves in the corner, right off the ledge.
Mar 14, 2009
The description says gear to a 2 bolt anchor. I could not find an anchor... the rocks up top look a bit loose and I'm not sure what I would bolt. I built a gear anchor and walked off to the left. I did this and Dihedral 1 and they both seemed substantially easier than 5.7. Comparing to other trad climbs in the area, I would say they are no harder than Breezy on the Wind Tower in Eldo (which is 5.4) and certainly not as hard as Tigger there which goes at 5.5. I suppose it depends on what you are comparing them to, but calling this a 5.7 trad climb just doesn't seem right. It is orders of magnitude easier than North Face Center (5.7) on Cob Rock (or Empor (5.7+)). I don't like it when people sandbag, but everyone I was with thought these were easy, and if North Face Center on Cob is setting the 5.7 standard for Boulder Canyon trad, then these ought to be several grades easier.
Sep 20, 2008
Not really worth the effort.
May 14, 2007
- Wall of the Dead
- Dead Again
We found the 3rd and 4th clips were stretchy and hard to make. Perhaps we were missing some key footholds.
Sep 6, 2017
Very fun climb on great rock with some good underclings and sidepulls. Steady footwork on slopey stone will get you through the crux. Well-protected.
Nov 29, 2014
Climbed this route today, SO MUCH FUN. There's never a point where you are up shit creek on this route, it's such a blast. I think one bolt had some movement. I would totally give this a 10c simply because of some fancy footwork and knowledge of undercling/flake climbing at the cruxy parts.
Jun 26, 2014
The missing Fixe ring hanger at the anchor is actually on the route just right of Isle of the Dead called "Dead Again." Ron Olsen and I replaced the missing Fixe ring hanger on "Dead Again". I also tightened down the two anchor bolts on this route.
Sep 2, 2013
Today, Ron Olsen and I replaced the Fixe ring hanger missing from one of the anchor bolts. Double thanks to Ron for supplying the hardware.
Sep 2, 2013
One of the anchors is missing the anchor hanger and nut. The bolt appears to be ok. I found the nut on the ground and picked it up before noticing the anchor hanger was missing. Would be nice if someone could replace it. The anchor on the left of this climb also has a loose nut. I hand tightened it, but it needs tightening with a wrench.
Jun 2, 2013
Harder than Isle of the Dead next door, whether they are 10abc, I dunno. If your limit is in the 10-range, climb Isle of the Dead first, then if you want more with a more difficult crux, climb this. Has a fun hand crack half way up, always fun to put those crack skills to use... I'd definitely climb it again next time I'm in the area.
Apr 29, 2012
This climb currently has a couple spinner bolts.
Jul 12, 2009
Good warmup. Slabby crux. Smear feet.
May 27, 2008
I'd give the *crux* of this route a 10c rating when compared to other routes in the canyon. The top and bottom of the route seemed easier... all in all this a great route with solid moves on positive holds. Good route for the aspiring 10+ leader. -KT
Sep 26, 2006
The crux move up in the middle felt a bit harder than anything on its neighbor Isle of the Dead. Fun moves moving out and up from the undercling to the flake.
Aug 18, 2005
At 5.10 and under, this is the funnest route I've done at this area. Safe bolting makes it enjoyable for those challenged at the grade. .10a seems a little low. Rossiter's .10d rating was almost enough to scare me off--don't let it stop you!
Jul 14, 2005
I felt this route is easily .10c and probably .10d. I've done many other 10cs and 10ds at Avalon, and I felt it was right on par with those routes. It felt much more difficult than Marquis de Sade on the other side of the crag, which is 10c. It might have been more difficult for me because I'm only 5'4''. Either way, I felt it was a good route.
Jul 11, 2005
Dead Again is the next bolted line left of Dead Can Dance. Although Rossiter rates it .10d, it's not as hard as the other .10d's and .10c's at Avalon, but harder than Slayer -- .10b -- on the First Tier. How 'bout .10b/c?
Jun 3, 2004
A fun route with strenuous laybacks and precise footwork needed through the start. I thought it was as hard as Tomb, and like that route, had good climbing right to the (too short!) end.
Jul 22, 2002
- Dead Can Dance
Certainly not 10a - "the move" is simply one of commitment, not difficulty. Get on it though! It climbs a lot better than it looks, and in contrast to a lot of bolted routes in the canyon, this one is pretty much on for its entirety. There are lots of good rests but very few gimme moves.
Sep 15, 2015
The best sport route we did today. I'd definitely do it again. 5.9+ seems appropriate, and if you're out of shape, it'd be fair to maybe call it 5.10a. Great problems going up, and all the bolts seemed solid. Distance between the 2 and 3rd bolt might be a touch long for some beginning sport leaders. Kinda reminded me of the Yellow Spur in Eldorado Canyon.
May 31, 2015
I got a bail biner off this today. PM me if it's yours and you want it back.
Aug 30, 2012
A fun route of the "why does it have a plus" variety. Awkward/unexpected positions and being over vertical for some moves make it a plus for me. A great route because they holds are indeed big 5.9 holds, but you need to move smartly. If you're struggling with a move, consider that you're probably doing it wrong and need to look around for somewhere else to grab or put your foot to make it a 5.9 move. The 5th bolt needs the extended draw to avoid some ugly dragging - a shoulder length sling would be a good length.
Apr 29, 2012
Loved it. 9+ seems about right. The last moves before the anchor were indeed committing. One longer draw on the bolt under the roof should cut out the rope drag.
Jul 23, 2011
Has one bolt that spins somewhat - maybe the same one Dr. Evil mentioned?
Jun 4, 2011
One of my favs in the canyon so far, great exposure, variable climbing, and nice bolts. Good job.
Oct 9, 2010
Our group consensus was this was 9+. Fun route with big holds. I've recently been leading on 5.8 and 5.9 but not sure if I was ready to lead this one.
Jul 25, 2010
This climb currently has a spinner bolt.
Jul 12, 2009
It is easily and safely led on gear.
Aug 21, 2008
Regarding Dogs at the Crags: I am not opposed to people bringing their dogs to the crags, however, if you do, you must be responsible for your dog at ALL times. Considerations: It is not OK for your dog to bark at, or approach in an aggressive manner, other climbers coming up to the crag. If your dog is [territorial] and aggressive, leave it at home. It is not OK for your dog to leave a pile of shit at the bottom of a crag. As of this Sunday, there is a big pile of dog shit at the bottom of the route Dead Can Dance at Avalon. This is unconscionable and should never happen. It is not the dog's fault, but the owner's. CLEAN UP AFTER YOUR DOG or don't bring your dog. This stuff is just common sense and common courtesy. Come on people. We need to work together here. Richard Rossiter
Aug 2, 2005
5.9,5.9+ whatever the grade, a lot of fun with good features, interesting climbing. Well worth two stars.
Sep 26, 2004
Unique pitch; sustained and varied. The last several feet can mix you up. Pro is fine but there are a few spooky moves right before clips. I wouldn't recommend this to someone just breaking into 5.10 leading.
Jun 16, 2004
AC: How do you know how much Ron is climbing? Perhaps he's posting on only 10% of the routes he climbs. That's what makes me jealous!
Sep 8, 2003
Two things I've noticed about you, Ron: You feel the need to post on every single climb you do (in this case, TWICE), and you seem to be climbing with (and posting photos of) a different woman every week. I guess I'm jealous.
Sep 8, 2003
The move left under the roof is 5.9, not 5.10a; many of my climbing partners concur. This is a good pitch for climbers breaking into 5.9 sport leading.
Sep 7, 2003
RR calls this Dead Can Dance, 10a; see Tomb of Sorrows comment. A two star route on a one star crag. Parse that!
Sep 27, 2002
This is one of my favorite routes at Avalon. Fun, airy moves with excellent position. Also, it seems a bit easier than 10a. The move stepping left under the roof is more committing than difficult. Many of my friends who are not 5.10 climbers have cruised this pitch on a top rope. I'd give it two stars and rate it 5.9.
Aug 6, 2002
- Dead Zone, The
Reasons to do this route: 1)You are thirsting for some trad while at The Avalon 2)You want to feel assured that you've done every official route on this rock 3)You are conducting a survey of rock-borne ecosystems and admire the moss, lichens and ferns as you go up. 4)You enjoy putting your limbs through a cheese grater.
May 14, 2007
This thing is a choss pile compared to the routes surrounding it. Plus there is 4 by 5 foot death block on the top. The routes left and right of it are much more enjoyable......and safer.
Sep 18, 2005
The crux at the second bolt can be done in two ways: 1. Move right and up to the roof, then use great holds to turn the roof to the left. See Christa Cline cranking the crux past the second bolt. It's also possible to climb the crux taking a line more to the left. of Christa Cline. 2. Move left with tricky balance, then face climb the slab using a thin crack. See Pebby Johns moving left at the crux of The Dead Zone. of Pebby Johns. The first method is definitely easier.
Aug 29, 2005
One and a half stars- maybe 2 for this cliff. Nice climb, and tastefully done. The gear is straightforward and solid. As well, it is supplemented by 2 bolts, one just before the crux. It would be easy to escape right to the route "Dead Can Dance" just to the right. So perhaps this is an ideal beginner trad lead for the competent sport climber who has just taken up the rack.
Jul 25, 2005
A great addition to Avalon; sustained, interesting climbing from bottom to top. Surmounting the crux bulge at the second bolt requires good balance and footwork. The cracks above protect well and are enjoyable to climb.
Jul 22, 2005
This is a lead version of a previous TR called SARCOPHAGUS, 11a, but does not turn the initial roof, hence the lighter rating. Begin in the same RFD as Dead Can Dance. Stem up and stretch left to clip the first bolt on this route. Pull left into the line and climb straight up, mostly on gear. There is one more bolt at a blank section about halfway up. Lower off, 60 feet? Two stars I guess on the Avalon scale. The gear is very fun.
Jul 20, 2005
- Isle of the Dead
So it isn't perfect, I had fun. Some thinking required. Now it's 3 yrs after I wrote this comment. I climbed it again, I like the start. It is fun, but the upper sections are just annoying that they are harder than 10b or you are forced to go right, which seems off route. You should still do it while you're here though...but I reduced my rating from 3 to 1 star.
Apr 29, 2012
Rarely am I one to comment on the way a climb was bolted due to the sheer effort put in. Here though, I don't understand this route and the bolting at all. It's definitely contrived if you follow the bolt line and stay off the things to the right. To me though, it's so close to the easier things on the right that you might as well have bolted that area instead. When I was climbing this today, I wanted to go left, but there was so little there and no chalk whatsoever I felt off route. I just wished I was on something else and that rarely happens. If one wanted us to climb the harder portions of this to the left, I think the bolt line should have been even farther to the left and this would go at high 5.10s or even 11. I say, avoid this route, and climb either Dead Again or Strange Science to enjoy your day.
Apr 10, 2012
I found this route fun if you stay on the bolt line (hard for a 5.10b I thought). My partner who went up right and stuck to the crack(probably a 5.9 or so) also enjoyed it... so maybe it's contrived, but it's fun either way.
Nov 23, 2011
Peeps definitely need to be a little easier on this route, because it is great for learning the speedbumps of 5.10 climbing. There are trust issues here, but hey we all have a little bit of those, right?
Oct 9, 2010
I agree - it's frustrating when 'bailing right' means using the better holds that are a safe, easy reach from the bolt line. The bolts could direct you left more if that's what was really intended.
Aug 5, 2010
This is a 10 if you go straight up the bolts, but if you reach right it can go as easy as 5.9 or 5.8. I don't like routes where holds 1 foot right of the bolts are "off," since they seem contrived, but if you climb it as a 5.9 then it is fun.
Sep 20, 2008
If 5.10 is your limit, this will feel very hard. If you warm up on .10s, skip this one and do the next one to the right (Dead Again).
Aug 14, 2007
Keeps you thinking if you avoid bailing right after halfway. Last clip made easier by finding hidden hand hold out left...decent stances the whole way.
Aug 18, 2005
Rossiter's website (boulderclimbs.com) grades this climb 10a. It felt like 10+ to me (as compared to other 10s I've climbed in Boulder Canyon).
May 4, 2004
I climbed it last weekend and found it enjoyable. The rock was clean and solid, with the exception of the loose crack to the right of the first few moves (although using the crack isn't necessary anyway). The route itself had interesting moves, and seemed rather sustained. The cruxes felt to be at the very beginning and very end.
Oct 21, 2003
Besides the fact that this route is contrived, dirty, unesthetic, rotten and the 5th bolt is in an exfoliated plate, I just can't find a place to keep my pants clean when I'm sitting to belay...
Sep 27, 2002
- Third Tier
- Crack Land
- Ancient Fright
This route deserves its 10c rating and not the 10b rating it is given in the D'Antonio book. It is sustained at the 10c grade on small sidepull holds.
May 13, 2013
Bob D'Antonio's book called this 10b. I found it pretty hard by Boulder Canyon standards. I also placed a yellow Mastercam going from 3rd to 4th bolt. Prod.
Sep 16, 2012
A good pitch and solid for the grade. Balance on sidepulls to make your way through the crux. There's a blue Alien placement to supplement the bolts. No need for gear above the anchor if you are making your way to resurrection.
Aug 19, 2007
The tree above the finish to Ancient Fright is gone. A gigantic boulder tipped over and shattered the tree, but did not quite break it off. Thus the boulder teetered precariously against the tree, 200 feet above the approach gully. I came up with a tree surgeon's saw on a 10-foot fibre glass pole and cut the tree until it snapped under the weight of the boulder. This was a hairy opperation as I had to get down even with the base of the tree to wield the saw. This boulder was literally the size of a VW bug, but of solid granite. It is difficult to even speculate how much it weighed. When the boulder fell, it ripped a path through the forest below about 10 feet wide and 200 meters long...most of the way to Boulder Creek. I felt I had to fell the tree under controlled circumstances rather than when the tree finally gave way on its own. In any case, you can no longer belay or rappel from this tree. FYI: I returned during the summer of 2006 and placed a 2-bolt ringe anchor on the east wall of the recess beneath Resurrection (in place of the fallen tree). Richard Rossiter
Oct 5, 2005
A steep and sustained pitch; hard climbing from the third to the fifth bolts with minimal stances. The crux is at the fourth bolt. We continued up to the tree at the start of Resurrection instead of lowering from the 2-bolt anchor. We approached via Ancient Light, a good pitch with excellent airy climbing on the upper arete.
Aug 30, 2005
- Ancient Light
Only climbed the first pitch but liked it. It is rated 10c in D'Antonio's book but felt more like 10a. Nice line that needs some cleaning.
Sep 16, 2012
This is a highly underrated climb and needs to get some more traffic on it! Make the venture up and out of the usual Avalon crowds to find this hidden gem. The 1st pitch is probably far easier than 10c, but perhaps the necessity to avoid wet moss and vegetation along with a slightly awkward but very cool, airy traverse makes it a 10. Awesomely fun, and well done finding this line to the original bolters!
May 27, 2012
With a few longer slings, doing it as one long pitch is the way to go... you'll want to skip some bolts in easy territory & both inetmediate anchors to keep the drag down, but it's not hard where this is beneficial.
Jun 19, 2008
Dirty down low and still plenty of moss on the route. 2nd half is good when you move left to the arete. This was a good link into Ancient Fright to Resurrection to summit Avalon. If you do this, go to the top anchor.
Aug 19, 2007
On the first pitch, the crux traverse left to the arete may be harder than 10a for shorter climbers. At 6'1", I was able to reach some good holds to pull myself across, but my shorter partner had a lot of trouble here. Rossiter's 10c rating may be more accurate for shorter climbers. If you're going to do the second pitch, continue past the first anchor (on a pedestal just below the grassy ledge) up to the grassy ledge and an anchor on the wall above it. This makes the pitch 80' long with 9 clips instead of 8.
Sep 3, 2005
The second pitch is interesting and varied. Climbing around the pillar and up to its top is quite different from the typical Avalon face climb. Laybacking the roof is straightforward, once you get in the proper position. The upper face was steep and sustained, with a 10b move at the 4th bolt and a 10d move at the fifth bolt. You can climb straight up past the fifth bolt with a long reach to a good pocket, or go left to a flared hand crack. I placed a #.75 Camalot in the left side of the pillar after the second bolt, a #.5 Camalot and a #3 Camalot after the third bolt, and a yellow Alien after the fifth bolt.
Sep 3, 2005
- Ancient Sight
You gave this a star!? Haha! I'm sure in time it could clean up into one. Not bad moves or bad rock, just presently very dirty.
Jun 20, 2008
- Art Of War, The
Optional small cam to protect the moves to the 1st bolt.
Aug 25, 2014
Interesting climbing from 10' below the crux roof to 10' above followed by a 5.7 slab leading to the anchors. It's a nice route but not quite of the same caliber as, e.g., Lust or Dominator. Nevertheless, I'd like to thank Richard and Pebby for undertaking the Herculean task of cleaning the lines on the NE Buttress. It's a nice place to climb on 90 degree summer days.
Aug 11, 2006
An excellent pitch. Sustained climbing from the 3rd to the 6th bolts: finesse and balance, not power. One of the best 10s at Avalon.
Jun 16, 2006
My partner and I climbed 8 pitches (including the Art of War) on the 3rd Tier of Avalon on Saturday, June 10th. This climb and Ancient Fright were probably the best of the ones that we did. When you stand at the base of this climb, you get a sense of how much work went into cleaning the route. It is hard to believe that someone was that motivated to put this route up, but I'm glad that Richard and Pebby did. While the route is long and enjoyable, I don't think that it is as good as some of the other routes at Avalon. If you like remote and obscure climbs, then the Northeast face of Avalon is worth a visit.
Jun 11, 2006
Thanks, Tony. I am glad you enjoyed the route. It was indeed a lot of work to set up as a climb. I had considered this long narrow arete to have potential for the last 10 years. I had run out of less arduous projects, so it was time give it a go. This climb also marked my return to life after a bad motorcycle crash 7 weeks ago. So I labored with a broken hand, broken rib, torn shoulder ligaments, knee surgery and a second head injury (one was clearly not enough). But not to complain...I'm back! Pebby was just fantastic on this route. I could not have done it without her hard work and boundless enthusiasm. By the way, this route has 9 bolts along its 100 feet and 2 bolts with steel rings at the top. The crux is long and intricate. I thought it was fun, but that's just me. After all, there is no accounting for taste. Richard Rossiter
Jun 9, 2006
- Blade
Richard, I am not saying that you shoulde remove the bolts. There are bolts that I get ruffled over, but I don't think these qualify. They were not placed in an unreasonable way, not retros, etc. Having been there since before the adjacent crack was climabable, I can see the arguiement to leave them unless you can see from the ground that they are gone. Since they predate the crack & are expected to be there by people, removing them doesn't serve much if they are not obviously gone. Regardless, I'm not invested in either point of view. Perhaps this is a time when you can chalk one up to the "whoops" column and leave it, keeping a mental note about it in the future if you start on a line that apprears to have a servicable crack nearby or rather, one that could become serviceable with some cleaning. Meanwhile, I think your civil tone, flexibility, and honest reflection on the matter is befitting a gentleman....
Mar 30, 2009
Looking back on Dragon Slayer, it is true that all of the cracks on the Third Tier were pretty clogged as was the entire crag when I started working out the climbs in 1996. But hindsight is always 20-20 and I would say now that much of my work on Avalon and Sleeping Beauty was a little "sport sighted." Maybe next season I can return and remove some of the unnecessary bolts.
Nov 26, 2008
The guano is not terrible, but also not completely avoidable, so it is a detractor to an otherwise good corner. The bolts are on the route 'Dragon Slayer' which was put up a year before Blade was cleaned and is a sport-climb from the bottom up, so I understand how they got there. But the fact that Blade now runs right through the upper part of that route does lend one to the conclusion that perhaps the bolting on 'Dragon Slayer' was a little short-sighted. Blade is the better route. Consistent stemming and some really pretty cool holds solve out each crux on this climb. A few of the jams are a little pebbly, but not sharp- just a wee bit uncomfortable.
Jun 20, 2008
I could ignore the bat guano but not the three high bolts, each of which are less than a foot away from a crack that swallows up gear. Maybe it's cleaned up a bit and the crack didn't look protectable? Perhaps also explains why I thought it was so much easier than the first ascent party?
Jun 20, 2008
My partner and I both thought that the hardest move on this was about the same difficulty as hardest move of Ancient Light pitch 1, though Blade is overall much more sustained. Two star climbing plus add another for being in control of one's own destiny as far as protecting goes.
Jul 8, 2007
There are crack climbers out there who would love this consistently demanding crack line. The climb is highly physical as well as intellectually challenging. The question they should be asking themselves is: Why haven't I done Blade yet? After revisiting this climb yesterday, it is very deserving of four stars. There are several roofs included in this line...one especially that sucks you into the corner...so beware and think it through. Pebby Johns
Sep 4, 2006
- Crack Love
This is a good climb. I did not place a #4 Camalot or any nuts. I used cams from a 0.4 Camalot to a #3 Camalot. It is about 5.9 in difficulty. I used a chimney move at the crux.
Jun 21, 2013
Nice route. A #4 is not needed but is nice to have. The crux is pulling the 2nd roof.
Sep 2, 2012
There is a bit of difficulty with rope management on this climb as the overhang and crack at the top tends to "eat" the rope a bit. We had a situation with a totally jammed rope. Be careful when setting up to not get the rope stuck.
Aug 27, 2009
This is the best of the 3, Crack of Love. Fun moves all the way. As for the rating it is no more than a 5.9, and that is comparing other 5.9 trad climbs in the canyon.
Jul 28, 2008
I agree with Ron's 5.9 rating; you can skip the #4 Camalot w/o compromising your safety. Also be careful about some loose rocks in the first roof (or yard on them like I did).
Jun 8, 2007
An excellent crack climb. The step left under the first roof is airy and fun; watch out for some loose chockstones in the wide crack under the roof. Getting into the V-slot above the second roof was the hardest move; it seemed about 5.9 by Boulder Canyon trad standards. At the top, I lowered off two slings and two biners around a tree. The rope is likely to get caught in the finger crack at the second roof if you do this. I sewed it up with the following pro: small and large wired nuts (#4 and #12 BD Stoppers), pink tricam, green Alien, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot, 2 #2 Camalots, #3 Camalot, and #4 Camalot. Kudos to Richard and Pebby for all the hard work it took to clean the route, remove loose rock, and build a platform at the base of the climb.
Jun 26, 2006
- Crack Love II
My brother Stevie and I are going capsule style up this bad boy.
May 8, 2017
This is a good line, a little easier than the main Crack love. A good place to teach someone how to hand-jam.
Jun 21, 2013
Nicer line than the main Crack Love.
Sep 3, 2012
A 2-bolt ring anchor is now in {as of 7-10-06) at the top of Crack Love II. The anchor also serves the finish to Crack Love III, a few feet to the left. A good stance affords easy threading. Lower off, 75 feet.
Jul 18, 2006
Another fun crack climb; a little wider than Crack Love, but just about as hard. Turning the roof into the wide crack near the top was the hardest spot. Seemed like 5.9 by Boulder Canyon trad standards. I sewed it up with a #11 BD Stopper, blue tricam, green and yellow Aliens, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot, #3 Camalot, #3.5 Camalot, and 2 #4 Camalots. There was a tree with two slings and a locking biner at the top; I didn't see a 2-bolt anchor.
Jun 26, 2006
- Crack Love III
I thought this was easier than the given rating. We came in from Crack Love, not Crack Love II.
Jul 18, 2013
I have to agree with Tony on the rating. Also to make it a better climb, start with Crack Love instead of going right to Crack Love II. I did it the way of Crack Love II and place a piece high in it before moving to the left. This may have made is easier.
Jul 28, 2008
More direct if approached from below via Crack Love instead of the start to Crack Love II. Gear to pull the roof is placed blind and you wouldn't want to mess it up there, but I think the climb is easier than rated by a good margin.
Jun 25, 2008
- Enemy Within, The
This chimney reminded me chimney on last pitch of Casual Route on Diamond. So would be good training for Casual, but of course there are no bolts there....
Jun 18, 2016
This is fun, but sport climbers might not like it. It would be very hard to actually fall out of the chimney on this, but I am glad the bolts are present.
Jun 21, 2013
Fun grovel. Seems easier than 10a to me.
Sep 3, 2012
The most physical climb on the wall, and also the least traveled if dirt is an indicator. Could still use a little more brushing. You can also climb outside the squeeze by stemmin' and palming.
Jun 25, 2008
- Ghost Ship
Ghost Ship felt a little testy for .10a although I may have erred by face climbing a foot left of the start of the crack -- which forced me to do an insecure blind placement before stepping back right into the crack itself. Bring 5-8 pieces from a yellow Alien to a #3 Friend (with an emphasis on 1" - 2 1/2"), more if you plan to protect the first 30' of 5.4 - 5.6 rock.
Aug 11, 2006
- Mystery Ship
Bottom is still a bit dirty but no big deal. I thought the bolting was weird/off when I was leading and was really surprised to see it was a Rossiter route as his are generally bolted perfectly, still not a deal breaker. Best thing about the route is you had to figure out the crux on the fly, no stepping to a good rest to once commited.
Oct 23, 2016
Good route and worth doing. Bring some small pieces if you are worried about the spacing between bolts. IMHO, the bolting is fine. It's expensive and time consuming to put up bolts, so you really can't fault the guy for not adding bolts in areas where the climbing is moderate.
Sep 23, 2012
The route has certainly cleaned up. I'd have to say that some of the grade issue may have to do w/ what Slim is talking about. I would have to agree in part that this route isn't bolted well (especially not for a leader pushing 5.10s). Although the climbing through the first 2/3s of the route isn't all that difficult compared to the crux, there is a very real potential for ground fall from near the 2nd bolt. Not sure why the bolts were configured as such, but don't let your guard down til you've got the 2nd bolt clipped.
Sep 12, 2010
Ok climbing, but abyssmal bolting job. The 2nd bolt in the headwall fabricates a clipping crux with ledge fall potential. Really poorly thought out.
Aug 2, 2010
The crux move appears to be height dependent. There is an excellent hold, but you simply have to be able to reach it. My wife, who's 5'4", could not.
Jul 19, 2010
The first half is moderate, but the headwall was way harder than Ancient Light which is supposedly 10a, but may be just 9. The clip after the finger crack on the headwall was pretty hard. It was cold, so that may have contributed. On the other hand, my partner Luke TR'd it in his approach shoes, and made it look relatively easy.
Sep 24, 2006
Sporting runouts between the bolts and quite a few .10 moves. Although I may be biased because it was the end of the day and my tips were sore, I thought the crux headwall was more like .10c than .10a. And, while there's still lichen on the route, it *has* cleaned up nicely. Our thanks to everyone who's wire brushed it.
Aug 11, 2006
I ran into some folks on Saturday who said they backed off of it because of all of the moss and the like on it, so I cleaned the $#@% out of it on my way down (and got a booty biner too). I ripped of fist-sized chunks of junk and totally gave my partner a lichen shower... Anyway, it still needs a good stiff brushing, but it is a lot better. Anyone who knowingly goes up to do 'recently installed' routes should carry a broad brush and help clean them up.
Jun 9, 2006
Apparently this route has cleaned up a bit. It's pretty clean now. 5.10a
Jun 9, 2006
Ron. Good man! I can use some help up there. The routes on the northeast side, such as Ancient Light, Mystery Ship, Charon's Boat and the new routes just being developed on the upper wall, need so much cleaning, it is more than I have time to do. You are right too, that if someone finds that a climb could use more cleaning, instead of writing about, bring some tools up and clean it. No one will complain about that! Yes, some new routes are coming up. I will post them as soon as I have completed setting them up and have had a chance to climb them.
Aug 21, 2005
Well said, Richard.
Aug 14, 2005
Tony Bubb writes: "So is the route hard at the grade, or only for Avalon?" I fell off the crux three times. I found the route harder than all the other 10s I've done at Avalon, including Lust, Sex Slave, The Fool, Dominator, Marquis de Sade, Isle of the Dead, and Dead Again, all of which are rated 10b to 10d. To Richard and Bob: I realize how much work goes into establishing and cleaning a new route; I have thanked you both in person for all the new routes you have put up over the years. The vast majority of those routes were fun and clean the first time I did them. Some were a little dirty at first but have cleaned up with subsequent ascents. I remember doing Gish on Bell Buttress and I could see the rock dust from drilling the bolt holes, and found the route fun and adequately clean even though I was doing perhaps the third or fourth ascent. I also did The Horse, The Dead Zone, and Charon's Boat on Avalon within a week of their creation and found them fun and reasonably clean. However, a very few routes were so dirty when I climbed them that they weren't much fun: Prince Charmer on Sleeping Beauty, Justin Alf Memorial on Bell Buttress, Mephistophiles on Solaris, and Mystery Ship on Avalon. When a route is dirty beyond a certain point, it will not attract climber traffic and will never clean up and become popular, unless the line is so compelling that it begs to be climbed, like Dominator, or unless someone takes the time to clean it up. I'll take Richard's suggestion and buy a wire brush and whisk broom and keep them in my climbing pack when I'm doing a recently installed route, and try to clean the route if it needs it. I urge other climbers to do the same. Any climbers wanting to give something to the climbing community should apply a wire brush and whisk broom to the routes I mentioned above, and any other potentially good routes that need cleaning.
Aug 14, 2005
I am responding to the entries from Ron and Tony. For most of the routes on Avalon, I graded them according to the perceived difficulty on the actual first ascent. In some cases this has proven pretty close to current consensus. In other cases the routes were so tenuous and unstable, such as the Dominator, it was difficult to imagine the things all squeaky clean after 1000 ascents. Regarding the new routes on the Third Tier, I was trying to project into the future, when all the lichen and moss is worn away and all the beta is known and published. Ron may have a point though, that it is tiresome having the initial ratings endlessly downgraded by people who do not even set routes themselves. Time will tell if I have been too conservative on these last few routes. As for the routes being "dirty," I would say this. Most climbers have no idea how much effort, time and sheer manual labor is required to set up a single new route on a primitive and heavily [vegetated] crag such as Avalon, Sleeping Beauty or Lost Angel. Clearing brush, loose rock and building approach trails are enormous undertakings. Understand that I am not complaining. I could not even explain the deep pleasure and sense of creative fulfillment this work has provided for me over the years. I am just speaking out. If you think a route needs to be cleaned up, here is the solution: Go to McGuckin's or Southerlands Hardware and buy the following tools. 1. Wire brush with a closed handle (to protect your knuckles) 2. Weed puller, steel, wood grip 3. Surgical tubing, 24 inches long (to blow debris out of cracks and crannies) 4. Whisk Broom Then go clean the mutha. Be part of the solution or be a wanker. Yours truly, Richard Rossiter
Aug 13, 2005
Perhaps Richard has been taking into consideration the heavy down-grading that consensus has given the other area routes. I spoke about this with him a few weeks ago. Avalon is pretty soft not only relative to other areas, but also within the canyon. We all try to arrive at consensus for an area, and this discussion promotes that. As a guidebook author, Richard is in the uniquely difficult position of not only trying to arrive the right conclusion and keep a relativly [consistent] grading scale, but also trying to set the standard for what that scale is. Once the books are published (or routes published en-mass) then that is the standard... So, is the route hard at the grade, or only for Avalon? On F.A. of any particular route, especially when I am cleaning along the way, I try to take all factors into consideration and guess at what grade the route may some day end up at. The great thing about this as a living resource is that it can be updated...
Aug 12, 2005
A challenging route made more difficult by plentiful moss and lichen; the route could use a good scrubbing. The start is on a narrow ledge with a drop off; consider anchoring the belayer to the big pine tree since the first bolt is fairly high. I found the headwall at the fourth and fifth bolts to be much harder than 10a. I had to power layback a finger crack with small lichen-covered footholds and a long reach to the next good edge for the hands. Maybe there's an easier way, but I couldn't find it.
Aug 12, 2005
- Mystery Tour
Fun climb! Lots of ways to approach it. I was able to get up using the crack and also just stemming oustide. Only need up to a #3 Camalot, though a #4 might calm yer nerves in the wide part. As of today, the tree anchor has some nice chord and two rap links.
May 21, 2016
Fun route! Steep dihedral with jugs to start and then lower angle perfect hands to the top. This is also a great climb for a hot summer day, as the crack is shaded and blows out cool air and making you never want to return to the ground! Webbing and rapide link on tree still in good condition.
Jun 27, 2013
I replaced the webbing on the descent tree on 5-12-13.
May 13, 2013
Great line especially of you stay in the crack. Wish it was longer. I brought a #4 and used it, but it is not necessary. 2 #3s would be nice though. Prod.
Sep 16, 2012
A nice, physical corner crack -- too bad it's not longer. Two #2 Camalots and two #3 Camalots protect the widest sections well -- no need for anything larger. Smaller gear useful below and above the wide part. No need to tape up -- the crack isn't too rough. Belay at the tree at the top and bring your partner up. Then do Dragon Fly and Dragon Slayer which start at this tree. Thanks to Richard and Pebby for their hard work to open up these lines.
Jul 1, 2008
I hauled up several boat anchors because it looked wide from the ground, but never placed the really big stuff. Some #3 Camalots and a couple #2 Camalots would sew the climb up.
Jul 1, 2008
Better gear and better moves than it appears from the ground. A fun climb overall. Too bad the lower angle stuff at the bottom is not more like the top corner. No wide gear necessary, despite appearances.
Jun 20, 2008
- Resurrection
I recommend Ancient Light P1 to Ancient Fright and the Resurrection to the top. A fun way to summit Avalon (which is really nice), but this pitch isn't great in itself. It was a Saturday and we saw nobody all day, until we went back down near Ripcord, where there were 10 - 15 people.
Aug 19, 2007
The tree above the finish to Ancient Fright is gone as of October 2005. A gigantic boulder tipped over and shattered the tree, but did not quite break it off. Thus the boulder teetered precariously against the tree, 200 feet above the approach gully. I came up with a tree surgeon's saw on a 10-foot fibre glass pole and cut the tree until it snapped under the weight of the boulder. This was a hairy opperation as I had to get down even with the base of the tree to wield the saw. This boulder was literally the size of a VW bug, but of solid granite. It is difficult to even speculate how much it weighed. When the boulder fell it ripped a path through the forest below about 10 feet wide and 200 meters long...most of the way to Boulder Creek. I felt I had to fell the tree under controlled circumstances rather than when the tree finally gave way on its own. In any case, you can no longer belay or rappel from this tree. FYI: I returned during the summer of 2006 and placed a 2-bolt ring anchor on the east wall of the recess beneath Resurrection (in place of the fallen tree). Richard Rossiter
Jul 3, 2007
In June 2006, Richard Rossiter added a 2-bolt anchor near the start of Resurrection. You can rappel from this anchor to the ledge at the start of Ancient Fright with a 60m rope.
Jul 17, 2006
A worthwhile route to the summit of Avalon after doing Ancient Fright. I placed gear from a yellow Alien to a #2 Camalot. The initial crack is fun 5.7 hands. The steep 5.9 face, protected by 2 bolts, can be made a little easier by stemming off the tree. Belay from the top anchor and bring your partner up, then scramble another 5' up to the summit of Avalon, an airy and beautiful place. To descend, we rappelled back to the tree at the start. There is a rap anchor on this tree (two sling and a locking biner). We rappelled from here to the start of Ancient Fright. The 4th-class downclimb looked a little hairy, so we went over to the anchor atop Ancient Light and rappelled back to the ground from there. If you're looking for some adventure climbing in Boulder Canyon, check the combination of Ancient Light, Ancient Fright, and Resurrection. The summit of Avalon is a neat place to visit. We applied a wire brush and whisk broom on our rappel descent, but the routes could still use more cleaning.
Aug 30, 2005
- Ship of Fools
Climbed Sept. 2012. It was pretty clean. The gear is great and easy to place and the climbing is fun. As usual, I just wish the hand crack was longer.
Sep 23, 2012
Regarding the "good dictionary sized chunk" - it was hanging on by a thread and we trundled it. The whole block just left of the number "2" in this photo is now gone: mountainproject.com/v/color…
Jul 18, 2010
I think the route is more like 80' or maybe less. I'm pretty sure a 50m would reach all, but I didn't try, because I don't own a 50m (short ropes are not sexy). Anyway, pretty good climbing, but watch the black right before the overlap in the handcrack- there is fresh breakage in the area and a good dictionary-sized chunk looks and sounds ready to go next. Also, the uppser section where it goes right might not be best for a tentative leader at this grade. There are a few, but not a lot of gear options.
Jun 19, 2008
Ship of Fools is a fun climb with solid gear. It's one of the cleaner routes up in crack land and should not be missed. Ends up being about 90 feet to the tree. Rap off of two slings with two rap rings. Someone could do a service and replace the slings. I would have but I just used my last ones yesterday. SR to #2 Camalot. Maybe a #3.
Aug 19, 2007
Nice hand crack and great work on the trail from here to Crack Love.
Jul 17, 2006
- Thus Us
Good climb, though I wish I'd have had more big gear. Did it with a #3 and a #4, could have used at least 1 more of either or both to really feel comfortable.
Sep 3, 2012
FYI. There is a new 2-ring-bolt anchor at the top left of the ENEMY WITHIN as of 2 July 2007. This anchor has a very good stance and serves the finish to THUS US as well.
Jul 16, 2007
There was a 2-bolt rap anchor just up and right of the tree; see This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Avalon, showing the new route WAR HORSE. . Hope it's still there.
Jun 8, 2007
Damn vandals. Bring slings and rap rings/quick links if you go up there. Unless you like that nice piny scent on your rope.
Jun 8, 2007
A good crack climb. I used four big cams (1 #3, 1 #3.5, and 2 #4 Camalots) and two #2 Camalots, and was glad to have them; bolder leaders can get by with less. My partner added a second sling and rap rings to the anchor at the tree atop the climb. There is also a new 2-bolt anchor not far up and right of the tree.
Jun 16, 2006
THUS US is a good crack climb a few feet right of the obvious chimney THE ENEMY WITHIN. This route required extensive cleaning and has no bolts at all. Begin from the obvious slot at the bottom of ENEMY. Step right after a few feet and keep going straight up. Gear requirements: 0.5 inches to 4 inches. Aliens and Camalots. No other nuts are needed. Hands, fists and arm bars. Lower off 75 feet from a tree at the top.
Jun 12, 2006
- War Horse
Don't forget the small cams, Alien-sized, on this one. Our leader had to have some lowered to him from someone at the anchor.
Jun 21, 2013
Pebby & Richard -- Thx for replacing the anchors. You guys (and Bob D, Vaino, Dan H et. al) should ask Culp and Neptune's to collect donations for the $$$ you've spent on bolts and hangers over the past several years.
Sep 23, 2006
Bruce, sorry to hear the ring hangers are missing. But not to fear, (as usual) we will take care of it and replace the missing hardware. Thank you for the information concerning this route. Pebby Johns
Aug 25, 2006
I actually enjoyed War Horse more than the Art of War. Ron's gear recommendations are excellent (although a blue Alien works as well as a hybrid Alien). After the first placement just above the third bolt, the trad climbing is never harder than 9 or 9+. However, as Mikeneu noted, some expletive deleted stole the hangers and rings from the new bolt anchor. Until they're replaced you have to: (1) belay/rap or lower from the slings and rap rings at the Thus Us tree; or (2) sling the tree for pro and climb diagonally up left to the last two bolts and anchors on the Art of War before lowering (doable with a 60m rope with a few feet to spare).
Aug 11, 2006
- Southwest Buttress
- Black Tiger
"If this were in a gym, I'd be at the front desk complaining, asking for my $12 back." - Matt Samet yep, that about sums it up It's real sketch getting to the finger crack above the third bolt
Aug 23, 2008
Some neat climbing, but the route needs a good scraping so you can smear with your feet and not fall. After on-sighting a few "5.12s" today I snapped or crumbled several intermediate holds off of this route before I retreated from the 3rd bolt, tail between my legs (and no gear on my harness for the upper section).
May 14, 2007
- Jaguar
Still needs some minor cleaning. Route is far easier than the "11c" neighbor, 'Black Tiger.'
May 14, 2007
- Resistance, The
Thought this was The Solution when I first started up it. Then moved left onto what looked like an easier unknown but was in fact The Solution. Luke started up this and was halfway up when I realized this was Resistance. Much nicer than The Solution and only a touch harder. Way easier than Black Tiger to the right which we flailed on on TR and couldn't get past the first move.
Sep 24, 2006
- Solution, The
I found it reasonable to climb above and to the right of the potato chip without much risk of falling in (as long as the belayer is attentive). Still, it freaked me out a bit!
Apr 24, 2016
Potential fall onto the "death flake" made this route kinda scary. But I did enjoy the face/slab climbing on pockets above it.
Sep 30, 2006
Didn't enjoy this much. Not as clean as The Resistance. There's a death flake below that it feels like you could hit, or worse, straddle. There's the big flake behind you that you can palm or stem to at any point, which I did the first time up, and so this route felt contrived. Did it twice and both times I had to lunge the last move to the jug.
Sep 24, 2006
- Wall of the Dragon
- Dragon Fly
Good climb. We climbed Mystery Tour first, which puts you right at the base of this climb. Definitely worth doing if you are on Mystery Tour (or any of the other climbs in that area).
Sep 23, 2012
A good pitch; worth the devious approach. We geared up on a spacious ledge at the top of the ramp then scrambled down to the tree to belay. Be sure to anchor the belayer to the tree; this spot is exposed. A steep jug haul past the first bolt and some delicate face moves up higher. As Richard says, stay in line with the bolts; the climbing is fun and doable.
Sep 15, 2005
...Beautiful rock with immaculate pro in a spectacular setting is a pretty good route. The worst that can be said is that the route is too short.
Sep 11, 2005
- Dragon Slayer
You can climb it straight on without really hard moves. The upper part shares moves with Blade (the difference is gear vs bolts). Fun climbing, but kinda felt odd climbing another route and clipping these bolts.
Jun 19, 2008
You can access/climb this & Dragon Fly after climbing Mystery Tour or Mystery Ship. Not knowing what we were climbing, these almost seemed like extensions/2nd pitches of Mystery Tour/Ship.
Aug 20, 2007
This is a great pitch; one of my favorites on Avalon. Sustained, varied climbing from bottom to top. We geared up on a spacious ledge at the top of the ramp and scrambled down to the tree to belay. Be sure to anchor the belayer to the tree; this spot is exposed. The crux is the traverse left past the first bolt; thin edges for the feet make it possible. Climb up and clip the second bolt and breathe a sigh of relief. Solid face moves past the second and third bolts, an unusual ramp by the fourth and fifth bolts, and an overhang at the top round out a great pitch of climbing. The rock is still a little dirty but should clean up with more traffic. Unfortunately, we didn't have time to wire brush the route on the way down. If you've climbed everything else on Avalon, make the trek up to the Wall of the Dragon and do this route!
Sep 15, 2005
- Wall of the Goddess
- Amrita
- Isis
OK climb. Good option to work on hand crack skills. It's probably easy 5.9 if you are a good crack climber and 5.9+ if you have average crack skills.
Jul 20, 2013
I am not sure what to think sometimes of grades. I brushed the climb down pretty well on my way up and I think that made it a little easier- it is still cleaning up. No less, Lenny and I both thought the climb was about 5.9. I think that initial ascents all feel harder to the FA party due to lack of cleanliness on the route, avoiding bad holds, and the effort put into cleaning on the way up. I figure that the grade of this climb will eventually settle into 5.9-. As for the quality, it's hard to say a whole lot about a climb less than 10 meters tall. If it were 5 times longer, you'd have a great route on your hands, I guess. Meanwhile it goes as an after-work diversion.
Jul 30, 2005
- Nephthys
Visit: touregypt.net/nephthys.htm for an explanation of the name of this climb.
Aug 1, 2005
- Warlock
I highly doubt that it is the same because the switching faces move and the runout were so pronounced as to be hard not to mention in a description. I also VERY strongly suspect that Rossiter would have either excavated the crack that we did, or bolted the line to protect it, as without doing either, the route would have been R/X and not in keeping with Richard's MO on route development there. Warlock is no more than 3 Meters left of Yoni. But I don't know where Rossiter's line is... so I can't be sure... (refer to second attached image).
Aug 19, 2005
Tony - could Warlock be the same as the route Shakti? Rossiter describes Shakti as a "difficult face and shallow crack at the left side of the Wall of the Goddess" on boulderclimbs.com/climbing/… Rossiter rates Shakti 5.12, but he has over-rated other climbs on the Wall of the Goddess. If Warlock is an independent line, where is it in relation to Shakti?
Aug 18, 2005
crescentmagazine.com/rites/… "A very common misconception is that a warlock is a male Witch. This could not be further from the truth. Warlock means "oath breaker," and can be applied to either sex. A Warlock is someone who betrays the trust of a coven." The climb was so named because of the ribbing I was getting lately from some of my climbing partners for sport climbing so much since I busted up my ankle. This was the first trad FA I did after getting "back on my feet" after a little over a month.
Aug 1, 2005
- Yoni
This route is mostly a 5.6. There may be one 5.7 move at the bottom, but that is it. The route is fun though. Too bad it is so short.
Jul 5, 2013
I'm new to crack and lead climbing and I got up this thing no problem. Either I'm getting better, was having a good day, or this thing is only 5.6 or thereabouts. Great hand crack though! Wish it was longer! I protected it with two larger (#12/13) BD stoppers and a #2 (yellow) Camalot only.
Jun 30, 2008
This is a nice crack, but it is nowhere near 5.8! The bolted anchor is also exceptionally lame.
Sep 18, 2007
Aaahhh...leave it to that badass Rossiter to name a climb properly. I like it. Elixer amrita. Here's to daydreaming about the source, and the goal... om.
Jul 26, 2005
- West Gully
- Charon's Boat
Pretty good. Would be more stars except it's so short. Airy traverse.
Aug 12, 2010
Seemed a bit stiff for "Boulder-Canyon 5.9."
Sep 11, 2005
A short but fun route which seemed harder than the typical Avalon 5.9. The finger traverse between the second and third bolts is airy and it's a stretch to reach the third bolt. This clip could be hard for shorter climbers; maybe this bolt should have been placed 6" to 1' lower. If the third clip seems too committing, it's possible to place pro (small cam) in the horizontal finger crack before clipping the third bolt on this route; see photo.
Aug 12, 2005
- Dragon Direct
The trad part up top is super-mellow (5.5?) and takes pretty good gear for a climb without a salient crack, per se. A good place to practice more advanced gear placements and runner work, I think.
Jun 24, 2008
Several hard moves past the two bolts at the start. Seemed more like 9+ or 10a than 9. There's a decent stance at the two-bolt anchor at the top of the pitch; you can belay here, bring your partner up, and then easily move up to the tree on the ledge by the Wall of the Dragon. We replaced the rappel anchor on this tree: two slings and rap rings. Hopefully, this anchor won't disappear!
Apr 16, 2006
- Knight of Swords
The loose block is to the left as you move from last bolt to the anchor. Lots of painful sharp holds. Direct start is 10d/11a.
Jul 16, 2013
The block behind is in no way part of the route. Thus it has been decreed. Nor is the tree on the route, nor is anything on the route that is not on the face. I agree with the Tony B, the Bubbster, in that the route is 10d/11a and the crux is the second bolt. The block at the top is attached only with an amalgam of dirt and lichen, so don't grab it. To get to the second bolt, I recommend the beta from my partner, which is to layback on the left-facing flake at the bottom and work the feet up on small edges doing a left/right-crossover/left.
Oct 3, 2011
Thanks, RR, for all the work up this way, very beautiful setting. This route was probably the best of the ones I got on. Seems pretty clean at this point, the only thing that seemed concerning was the fractured lower part of the giant, left-facing flake at mid-height; however, I can't really imagine how it could be pulled on to break it out from behind the solid flake. I definitely agree w/ TB that if you're not feeling very solid, stick clip or lean across and climb the first section w/ the 2nd bolt clipped. It would be very unlikely to walk away unscathed if you blow the 2nd clip. I also agree that if you charge straight up from the ground it will feel a little stiff for a 10.
Sep 12, 2010
It didn't even occur to me to use the block back behind me.... I thought the route was probably hard 10/easy 11, and the hardest part was getting the second clip. If you are limited in ability to 5.10, you really should get that second bolt clipped or do the stem back... it would suck to blow that clip!
Jun 24, 2008
What is this route rated if you do a direct start and do not use the boulder off to the side to start at the second bolt? We did it that way and thought it was pretty hard, at least an 11.
May 8, 2008
Note to the mp.com folks...I am offically changing the name of this route to the KNIGHT OF SWORDS (an afterthought), as it is one of several ways you can reach Dragon Slayer. I think the sword has been the traditional weapon for slaying dragons. Thank you and keep up the great work. This website is not only very useful, but is a lot of fun. By the way, climb this route straight up out of the gully and it has a new crux.
Jul 21, 2006
A fun route that's well worth doing; steep and sustained with varied moves all the way up. I was able to clip the second bolt from the stem off the huge boulder; shorter climbers may have difficulty making the clip before committing to the wall. I did not try the direct start, avoiding the stem off the boulder. Avoid a loose block on the left just below the top. My partner cleaned up the route with a wire brush and whisk broom on the way down, but the route could still use more cleaning.
Sep 20, 2005
- Merlin's Enigma
Cons: 20' long; avoiding Charon's Boat is tremendously contrived. Pros: Every move up to the last bolt, esp. if you play the contrived game, is thought provoking; this is a rare non-overhanging climb that is probably easier if short. I was torn between giving it one or two stars but the 2nd Pro tipped the balance to two.
Jun 19, 2007
Whoooa there hard man... This climb is a gimmie for an 11? As in you are saying it is a 5.10? I guess we strongly disagree on that point.
Jun 9, 2006
Charon's Boat isn't choss; it's actually quite a fun climb.
Jun 9, 2006
Coincidentally, it's also a gimme for 5.11. The bolt on Charon's Boat is about 20 inches away from the bolt over the lip on this route. The climbing on this route is kind of fun. Too bad Charon's is such a ridiculous squeeze job. Do we really need to bolt every single piece of choss in BC?
Jun 9, 2006
Fun Route, but sure seemed like a gimmie for 5.12. Too short to say much more about.
Jun 5, 2006
This is a nice, albeit short, new route. I won't give it a rating, but I suspect it might not be a 5.12. I am able to clip the third bolt from the undercling under the roof, a technique I recommend if you have the height. The crimpers on the arete under the third bolt are surprisingly decent. After I got my feet on the arete and stood up, I reached a bit off to the right on a hold that is probably also on "Charon's Boat"; these routes converge near that point, so I'm not sure if that hold is off-route or not.
Aug 28, 2005
- Sorcerer's Apprentice
The crux is definitely above the last bolt, and moving left keeps the route 5.7.
Jul 5, 2013
You can also climb this thing belly to the bolts past the last clip and to the anchors without going left, which it looked like the bolt line was trying to force. Small slopers will be on the menu and it is probably 5.11b or so, done that way.
Jun 24, 2008
A nice warm-up route that gets good afternoon sun. The hardest move is getting to the anchor from the last bolt; come in from the left to keep the grade moderate. Great views looking up the canyon from the saddle just above the start; the huge rock spanning the gully is amazing.
Sep 20, 2005
- BH Block
- Bell Buttress Massif
- Aquarium Wall
- Convergence Corner
- Filet of Soul
- Future of Life, The
Pretty good climbing, Too bad it is not longer. Don't let the 11+ grade scare you- it is not that hard and it is very closely bolted.
Aug 15, 2010
This is a pretty darn good pitch, as are Nowhere Man and Huck Finn. Once again Bob D impresses with his ability to unearth gems from the unlikeliest of mines.
Jul 16, 2008
Rest assured the" future of life" will be well bolted and bear the name of the great Bob D.
Sep 6, 2004
What is the appeal of putting that much work into bolting another generic sportclimb?
Aug 28, 2004
Bravo Bob! Two thumbs up! Crisp edging on steep granite high above the creek make this a quality route, and a nice addition to Bell Buttress. Environmental destruction? - please give me a break Roger...
May 27, 2003
- Gish
Update as of 8.4.13 - climbed this route for the first time and it's still excellent. Clean, well-protected 10a climbing in an atmospheric setting. I was glad to get the grey Camalot after the eighth bolt and belayed from the good anchors twenty feet off the deck. A 70m rope is recommended and gives plenty of slack in whichever configuration you climb it.
Aug 5, 2013
A 70 m rope lets you rap from the top anchor to the ground--just barely though (needed the 4-5 feet of rope stretch to reach or swing right a litte)
Apr 21, 2006
Fun route in a nice setting. Two stars for sure. Didn't need any supplemental pro; the bolts seemed well placed and not too far apart. It's relatively easy to avoid the obvious loose flake near the eighth bolt. The crux of the climb may be getting your shoes on in the sloping, wet ferns just above the creek. Be careful not to let your pack roll in.
Jun 24, 2003
This route probably has hangers stamped with "AH".
Sep 4, 2002
Did this route on 7/19/02.We belayed the traverse to the start anchor and protected the one dicey move with a small Alien. I found the climb to be burly for Boulder Canyon 10a; it felt more like 10b at the crux by the 9th bolt. The climbing is varied and interesting; definitely a worthy route. I belayed my partner from a good ledge at the top anchor instead of lowering. On rappel, we had 2 feet of rope left (with a 60-meter rope) when we hit the start anchor. A short rap from here gets you back to the ground. Be careful to keep the rope out of the creek!
Jul 30, 2002
Lillian or Smashing Pumpkins? This is a good route, tastefully bolted and always interesting. The grade is fair enough, but deep shade and crashing creek make the experience somewhat atmospheric. Both green and yellow Aliens fit the horizontal perfectly between bolts #8 and #9. Unfortunately, there is a big and really scary flake near the eighth bolt - you can easily recognize it by all the chalk. It is possible to avoid it on the left, but this baby really should be trundled (carefully, from above) before it kills someone.
Jul 27, 2002
This is a really fun route. The bolts were all right where I wanted them and the climbing is sustained and awesome. Two things: It's actually on the Aquarian Wall. The two bolt belay 15 ft. off the ground has a link on only one bolt (as of 7/23/02) so maybe bring one for the other bolt if you're headed that way.
Jul 23, 2002
- Huck Finn
- Justin Alf Memorial Route
You can continue up and left past the merge with Gish on 2.5-3" gear and hit the summit of the rock. Improvise and escape down to a bolted anchor somewhere and take a few raps to the ground. This route is a little harder and dirtier than Gish and has more suspect rock.
Aug 15, 2010
Some fun moves, but the start as well as the finish may warrant an "s" rating. Oh, and add a couple of letter grades for lichen-impaired seeing and breathing, not to mention hand and foot holds.
Jul 18, 2005
A climb with some good moves, but also some of the dirtiest rock in Boulder Canyon. This climb needs a good scrubbing before it will ever become popular. The belay position at the start is precarious. You're on a slippery vegetated slope with no anchor, and Boulder Creek roaring 15' below. If the leader falls before the first clip, both leader and belayer will fall in the creek. A belay bolt at the start is really needed. There's a great sequence of moves from the fourth to fifth bolts; work up left and back right for the easiest line. After the sixth bolt, the leader is confronted with a choice: angle up left in a shallow corner with a little pine tree and lichen-covered rock that looks as if it's never been climbed (with no bolts to mark the way); or angle up right past two bolts on cleaner rock on Gish. My partner opted for the Gish variation. I think most climbers, not knowing where the route goes, would make the same choice. This corner also needs a thorough scrubbing and perhaps a bolt to indicate that the route really goes left at this point. At a ledge below the final headwall, my partner spotted bolts off to the left and angled back on route. The final headwall has a little pine tree sticking out, rock that is completely lichen covered, and some very hard moves. The thin face above the little tree felt about 10d to 11a. My partner belayed from a good ledge at the top and brought me up. We then rappelled with a 70m rope, which was just long enough to get all the way back to the ground without having to stop at the Gish anchor 30' off the deck. Bob and Vaino, you guys have put up some great routes in Boulder Canyon, and we're all thankful for them. This route, however, needs some more work before it approaches the standards of your other contributions.
Jul 17, 2005
- Lichen Has Feelings Too!
Since most people will climb this route from the same ledge system that Future of Life and Huck Finn start from, bring a finger-sized cam to backup Lichen's first bolt for a belay. The real climbing is less than 20 ft long, but worth doing if you are up there anyway.
Oct 26, 2007
- Nowhere Man
Fun moves on a slab with some Tuolumne-like knobs. There is a tree that leans out over the creek that makes for an exposed backrest while belaying. Note that there is a hard move above a potential ankle-tweaking 1 ft wide ledge near the top of the route -- the only downside to this otherwise fine route.
Oct 26, 2007
Great work Bob! Another super route. The climb is delicate, but well protected. When I got through the bottom section, I thought I had it, but the climb was sustained and tricky all the way to the top. Personally, I had a little more trouble in this climb than I had on its neighbor Huck Finn 5.11 c/d.
May 31, 2003
- Parallel Development
- Bean Liquor Wall
- Bean Bagger
Great route! Cool moves in the beginning and coolest moves up high on the crux. Thought it was better than Hambanger.
Oct 10, 2011
The third bolt is not hard to clip (approach it from the left), but it's in a really poor spot, and too high, and if you slipped there it could be disastrous. The crux is tricky.
Sep 21, 2010
The last (6th) bolt is very well hidden on a ramp about 15' up and slightly right after you top out above the crux. You can't see it till you peek over the edge and you need a slightly longer draw for it so the biner is not hanging on the edge. From this bolt, you can see the 2 bolt anchor another 12' above. I clipped the 3rd bolt from the right, and it was not trivial to do, with a huge fall potential. I did not bring any gear, but my buddy said there was a crack to the right that could offer protection while clipping it. I thought getting past the 3rd bolt (again starting from the right - looking at Rolofson's guide, he shows an alternate way from the left which I did not try) was solid 10. Hint: keep moving/reaching left once you get the one good hold above where you clipped the 3rd bolt. First ascent was Rick Leitner, 1997.
Oct 20, 2006
- Beano Hangover
My fault, but fixed now.
Aug 20, 2003
Dunno Tony, Anyone would know that wasn't me, since I wouldn't refer to myself as "the bomb". But that's just me. Perhaps the cookies on your hard drive betray some latent desire you have to be me, or at least my sexy cb.com persona. It happens.
Aug 20, 2003
I did not submit this route - someone perhaps mis-selected my name? signed,"The Real, Non 5.12 Climbing" Kreighton Bieger
Aug 20, 2003
- Hambanger
Hello all, So yesterday I climbed the corner between Bean Bagger and Hambanger. Nice jugs and sketchy pro. Does anyone know what it is called? Thanks Chris
Oct 21, 2013
I'm not sure how the last few moves were intended to be done. It's tempting to move to the left side of the arete and finish there. Climbing directly along the boltline seems only slightly more difficult, but requires some blind fumbling into the right crack. In any case, the route has some interesting moves.
Jul 14, 2008
Good route, though not 10+ as in the book. Probably 5.10b, as suggeted above. I did find it pretty fun, and the crux was the best part- a little grace gets you through it tired/pumped or not.
Jun 12, 2006
Indeed. However, I did like the opening to the middle route. These routes will also seem a bit contrived to the purist, but I have often enjoyed trying to figure out just what the FA team had in mind. On a crag with brilliant climbs like Cosmosis or The Verve, these routes won't knock your socks off. But, they add some variety in a quite little spot with easy access and have some fun movement. Besides, pulling carefully on delicate rock is good experience for climbing in the mountains. In fact, and it is worth mentioning here, the little flake by the fifth clip flexed enough when I pulled on it that I suspect it will not last very long.
Aug 19, 2003
In my view, this route is really the only one worth doing on this part of Bell Buttress. The gully routes feature crumbly rock and creaky flakes.
Aug 19, 2003
- Nice Doggie
- We Bean Jammin' aka Eat The Rich
I climbed this in 2001 and noted that the first five bolts protect what was already a trad route named "Eat the Rich," which is in older guidebooks. WBJ is really only a variation to finish of ETR. The first five bolts are really unnecessary.
Jun 18, 2012
I dispute the 11b rating for the crux as well. I was able to RP the second attempt, but I'm 6'1" and think anyone much shorter would have trouble reaching the sloper. The crux is just after clipping the last bolt. Then you jam the left hand as far to the right as you can. Get the left foot as high as possible and reach up and right for the sloper. I was able to get my tips on it. I'd tried dynoing to it on my first foray; it's too slopey for that. Then you have to cross over with the left hand, grab the fin, and do a few burly layback moves to the top. It's really a great move if you're tall enough. Unfortunately, the route itself warrants few stars because the bottom 2/3 follows the lame rightward-tending dihedral.
Jul 13, 2008
I am 5'11" and could not reach the sloper out to the right from the jam for the life of me. My buddy barely reached it and he is 6'0" (he stemmed the seam to the left of the jam crack with his left foot which might have made all the difference. My hamstrings did not allow me to make this stretch!). He then somehow hung on to the sloper, adjusted his feet and then crossed thru to the fin. Not your typical 11b! More like 12a? Did we miss something?
Oct 20, 2006
- Bell Buttress - Main Crag
- Arms Bazaar
A "feel good" 12a, more like hard 11. I did this when I was 19, and I did it yesterday. Significantly easier than any 12- I've been on in Edo, Vedauwoo, or Yosemite. Relative graded routes in BoCan don't count, because people are light when they grade there unless we're talking about Never a Dull Moment.
Oct 9, 2015
Had to bail because of rain today. The nut about 1/2 way up is not fixed. I'll be back to finish the route and get it down on Friday 17th. Thanks.
May 11, 2013
This thread would be a great study of climber psychology. One guy says the gear seems pretty good. Another says he pulled it all and decked. Another says the one who decked must have had a bad belayer because he pulled all the gear and didn't deck. Another credits the climbing gods. Another says it's easy for the grade. Classic! P.S. - If you're tall enough, and don't fill your jams with cams, you can place a really good nut up high before doing the crux and have a bombproof TR through the sketchy bit.
Nov 9, 2011
definitely one of the best gear routes in the canyon. with minor shenanigans and careful gear placement this is a reasonable lead. great crux movement down low, and fun climbing in the 10 range above add up to a great route. i could see 11d or 12a either way, without too much argument. i actually thought this one was quite a bit easier than 'thunderdome' and substantially easier than 'the spoils'.
Aug 24, 2009
Low in its grade.
Sep 27, 2007
The climbing gods must have been smiling on me today. What an amazing line. Yes, Try to place good gear before committing to the crux. It's a bit heady up there. One of the best BC has to offer.
Sep 9, 2006
Great line with a slight emphasis on power. I'll forgo the blow by blow gear beta, but suffice to say, if you don't properly sew up the low crux gear can rip and you will crater. On a fall from the lower roof crux two weeks ago I pulled two cams and decked from 35'. Be careful and make sure your gear is totally dialed.
Sep 7, 2006
This is such a good route. As long as you're careful getting to that first clip, the rest of the route protects beautifully. A 1-1/2 Friend with a looong sling on the left protects the move out to the roof, then a 2 Friend just over the lip is bomber for the next few moves. I tried a .75 Camalot and a 1 Camalot both just above the roof and neither one fit as nicely as the 2 Friend -- where I placed it also left room for the one, good, handjam. Milk the pod-rest above the roof, then get psyched and punch it! I think the route is .11d because of two reasons, 1.) that's what it was rated in an earlier guide, pre-sport grade inflation, and 2.) I've never climbed a .12 before, or since )-: and I was able to do this route with some strategy - definitely not the first try.
Aug 30, 2004
This route is awesome and high quality. Being a real crack and very sustained, it's uncharacteristic of the Boulder area. I think the "s" refers to the start, where you need to do some 5.10 climbing with bad ground fall potential before getting to the first pro (a bolt) about 20 feet up or so. But the pro from there, although pumpy to place, seems pretty good.
May 3, 2004
- Beethoven's Fifth
Clean and BOLD. The start wasnt nearly as bad to lead as I initially anticipated, but I lobbed two MEGA whippers off the top prior to the send. Make sure your buddy gives you a soft catch, and the fall isn't too bad. Toprope lap or two is recommended prior to the lead unless you are ballin' hard.
Apr 3, 2017
One of the nicest lines in BoCan. Plugging the crux piece makes this thing ultra-solid for the grade.
Aug 23, 2014
Obviously, safety ratings are subjective, too, and are often hypothetical until someone (or several someones) tests it, but to me PG-13 means "safe as long as you maximize pro, but you still might take long falls," which I think describes Beethoven's exactly. That said, there's "not insignificantly difficult" climbing that is only protected by 2 equalized RPs, and below that is the ground. Sure, I believe they would've held, but it did seem kind of heads up. For sure, falling off the actual hard climbing involves air time. It's worth dealing with the gear, though, because this pitch is awesome.
Apr 21, 2014
I'd say this barely deserves a PG-13 rating with use of modern gear. Good, if not great, placements every 6-8 feet to protect the engaging 5.11 for the first 30'. A combination of RPs, small stoppers or C3s sew the bottom up pretty well. Upper crux protected well by small cams though a long fall is certainly possible yet safe. Can't wait to redpoint this one!
Jul 6, 2013
Thanks for the bolted anchor. It needed one. I almost put one in but lost interest. Way to not be lazy!
Nov 28, 2012
If I projected routes, I'd probably give this one a go. But I'm lazy and I don't climb that hard, so I'll settle for getting rejected on it on TR (hmmmph). Well protected crux but pretty hard, & it comes when you are already pumped.
Sep 30, 2012
Sandbag. Good gear the whole way though (bring RPs for the bottom). Classic moves, stunning line.
May 25, 2012
The bottom part of this route is slabby 5.11 protected by small gear. There's a good rest before the headwall. The crux is pretty awesome movement capped by a big move (static on micro hold, or dyno) to a big hold from which to clip the anchors. What more could a classic route want?
Aug 23, 2008
The bottom part of this takes only sparse small gear from some insecure stances, and it's hard to see the gear to check it without compromising your balance.
Jul 27, 2008
- Bell Air
The hornet nest is gone. The poor bolting on P2 still remains. The 1st bolt is in a weird spot based on where the anchors are located. You will cross load your biner, so don't fall before clipping the second bolt.
May 24, 2014
We tried to climb this route on Sunday, August 4th 2013, but there is a grapefruit-sized hornet's nest just after the pillar on the first pitch that we couldn't climb around. My partner was stung four times. Watch out!
Aug 6, 2013
Mossy. Licheny. Rotten rock. But kind of good, if you're in an adventurous mood! I broke a very large rock, took a good fall, and luckily didn't hurt anyone when the microwave-size block hit the trail below. Can get down in two raps. Second is tucked in and hard to see.
Jul 10, 2011
- Bell Buster
Michalm has a rather unrealistic attitude towards sport climbs. Having to bring one piece gear to place off route & left of the 5th bolt sets up a dangerous situation for many climbers who think the route will be all bolts. I do remember coming quite close to Double Jeopardy's bush infested corner on the upper section of the route. Not a pretty trad line & one to avoid. Don't assume that the FA team were just a bunch of sport climbers. We all have had extensive trad experience since the 1970s. I love sport routes, & I love trad routes. Having to place one or two pieces of gear on a sport route is not what I'm into. My guidebook says there are 6 protection bolts, not 7.
Jul 14, 2017
The crux seemed to be clipping the 2nd bolt. The route would be more enjoyable if this bolt were in a more sensible position. Also, the 2nd to last bolt is 2 feet from a perfectly good #0.5 Camalot placement, so it really shouldn't be there at all. Good climbing on interesting pegmatite, but the bolting could use improvement.
Aug 4, 2016
We climbed this route in the rain, perfect situation until you top out on the slab finish. Overall a fairly good route, but if Hound Dog is truly 11a, this route is easier.
Aug 13, 2012
- Cosmosis
The second pitch is worth doing. Regarding the length of P2, I noted yesterday that the end of the final dihedral is just over 35m from the bolted anchor at the top of P1.
Jul 9, 2017
We had a climber fall on the first 25 feet of the first pitch. There was a nut and a 0.1 camm and they both popped out. Search and rescue was called. Fractured vertebrae, and ankle.... There are a few pieces of gear left on this route consequently due to all the craziness. Please contact me if you have found this gear. 610 209 9176.
Jun 23, 2017
Second pitch makes this an even better outing. From a great hanging belay atop P1, it adds interesting face climbing to thought provoking dihedrals to hand crack (fixed #1 C4) to an offwidth (old #4 C4 was welcomed) and then even a short chimney move to top out! We did the walk off, I would rap next time for sure.
Aug 1, 2014
Awesome route! The pro isn't scarce, it's just really small and often shallow. So, for unseasoned trad folk like myself, it's a bit of a heady lead. That said the position, exposure, and moves are AWESOME! Did this yesterday and had to leave quickly when the weather came in. I had to leave a cam that was stuck about 1/2 way up. Blue cam. Please email me if you are able to pull it...climberboy228@gmail.com.
Jul 12, 2014
Wow, wow, and wow. If you did not give this pitch 4 stars, you simply do not like granite dihedrals. Combined with the sweet Tyrolean traverse approach 5 min from the parking turn-off, it is perfection.
Jul 4, 2014
IIRC, you can get a pretty good (but inobvious) #3 Camalot in just before the lower crux.
Aug 14, 2012
Been looking to do this route for a while now. This climb protects much better than what I have heard if you have small RPs. I got two good nuts on the left side of the pillar. I still didn't want to commit.... But just after the pillar slightly (where the pillar turns juggy), there is a perfect slot for a large RP. It is a SLOTTER nut that protects the crux. From here, you hike your foot up onto the pillar's juggy top and place a bomber #1 cam.... When you get to the top of the ramp where the route steepens, it can seem devious on how to protect the moves to get up into the steep corner and to the ultimate prize (the chalked up juggy flake). Place another small yet bomber nut in a small slot close to the corner.... It's hard to see, but it's there. You can also place a marginal 0.4 Camalot in a slightly flaring crack.... Lieback the greasy slopers and go to an incut crimp up and left, and then latch the jug... over from there. Hope this wasn't too much beta....
Aug 14, 2012
Great stone and a wide variety of movement make this a damn fun outing. The gear is good at the start, just a bit small.
Aug 4, 2012
Great route and one of the best in Boulder Canyon! Amazing position, perfect granite and just plain awesome. Do it!!!
Jun 27, 2012
Found a set of nuts 8 ft off the ledge. Seem to have been there for a while (and a little blood stained). Describe correctly and they shall be returned.
Jun 5, 2012
I climbed the first pitch yesterday and did not find the piton, which I guess might have fallen off or was removed. There was a purple BD fixed nut at the crux, which I found a little scary, because if you blow it and the nut pulls, you are likely hitting the flake below you. Overall, the route is great and, except for the crux move, protects easily and is a lot of fun.
Nov 7, 2011
Done this 5 or 6 times but never the second pitch until today. Very worthwhile! A bit easier, but the pro is not as good. Nice long pitch to near the top. From there, find a rap station to the east; two raps gets you back to the trail.
Jul 10, 2011
Good route. If you have small hands, watch out...the top section becomes an off-hands, not quite fists crack. Small gear at the bottom.
Aug 25, 2008
Small wires protect the crux, however, it can be a bit heady making the move to the good finger jams above. Good gear placements throughout the entire route. Similar to Curving Crack but harder, not as sustained as West Face to the right. Rp's to a #3 camalot, concentrate on small/medium cams. The crux felt 5.10a with sections of 5.9 throughout the climb.
Jul 4, 2008
Love Cosmosis, lots of fun, I used a #4 stopper, after that reach up and squeeze in a #1 Camalot, clip the old angle piton, get up into more vert. climbing, place a yellow Alien, and then gun it to the anchors, (one can also get a solid #2 Camalot placement in the handcrack up top). Yes is very nice. I rate it 5.9**** (super fun).
Mar 18, 2007
Climbed this amazing route again yesterday. One of the best pitches in Boulder Canyon. Too bad it's not longer. Just make sure you protect the crux move before committing to it. A small BD micro nut works well in the lefthand seam and if you climb up high enough you can put in a really good #1 Camalot before executing the crux move. Four star quality!
Jun 4, 2006
Two or three cruxes and sustained hard between them! My pro: three stoppers, a TCU, a #2 and a #3 Camalot in the upper crack and then I ran it out a bit to the anchors. This route made me think more than I'm accustomed to. That may not have come off right.....
Oct 18, 2004
Followed this route last year...lead it today for first time...spicey and sustained for the grade IMO. Pumpier than neighbor West Face for sure. The black Alien fits the upper corner before the lower crux. Placed a .75 cam above the crux and down climbed, then went back up for the clip.The move half way up, off the corner, is a high reach, sloping layback, sans pro from above...kinda sketch. That move is equally as hard for me as the lower crux. Got a good #4 BD stopper in a chalked crack near the corner before this move. Bring a #2 and #3 for the last 15'...
Oct 3, 2004
I took a fall trying to place gear at the crux about 5 years ago (my first trad whip). After getting my head together I realized that if you make 1 or two more moves past the crux, a good dropknee/stem can be found with your left foot on the jug you just passed, which lets you place gear pretty easily. It's nice to know that you can get in gear at the crux, but if 5.9 is your trad limit, it will be very pumpy to place gear there. The piece I fell on was a #3 Black Diamond nut, it held about a 12 foot fall, I weigh about 190, so the gear is pretty bomber!
Aug 6, 2004
Gumbies beware: Pitch 2 (assuming 3 pitches) is really run-out 5.6. I tried the old "I'll lead the easy pitch" routine, and got scared walking up the easy 5.6 after flailing up the P1 dihedral on TR. Perhaps I was off route, but I went left on the face as noted in this description and shown in Rossiter's photo. I got in a #1 Trango cam (1-1.5cm) about 30'+ above my first placement, which was right off the belay. It felt similar to the First Flatiron P1 run-out. Regardless, a good fun climb.
Jun 25, 2004
AMAZING!!! Trad is where it's at. Small RPs protect the first 20 feet well - I put two in low and equalized them and then a number 5 RP in the crack a little higher. Right after the first crux throw in a #1 Camalot...the rest of the climb protects great with some bigger Camalots (I used a 2, 3 and 3.5). Enjoy!
Jul 4, 2003
Wow! The only reason I thought about bolting "The Route That Dan Missed" was that nobody did it (too runout) or cared about it. I've only done it twice, back when I was much braver, and thought it was fun but not too significant in the big world of hard climbing. I will leave the route as is forever. Thanks for your suggestions/objections. By the way, MG and I TR'd the route once first (mainly to check rock quality), and then MG led it.
Apr 18, 2002
There's a fixed #2 Camalot at the top of the hand crack with black tape on the sling. I used but did not fall on it.... Anyways, that's my excuse to also compliment this route. Great stemming up the steep dihedral up top! The pro at the lower crux: geez, I found three places to put pro, but all three felt pretty sketch. Fortunately as Charles says, you can crank up to the crux, and then reverse the moves easily back down to a rest to check your mind before going for it.
Aug 12, 2001
- Daedulus Direct
- Double Jeopardy
I climbed the clip-up recently, as well. A half-star route that felt like easy-11 to me. Harder crux than Hound Dog but not as sustained.
Jul 2, 2004
Anybody know the name/rating of the clip-up route on the face? Felt pretty hard down low.
Jul 1, 2004
I've was a local of the South Platt and seen that area's Bolt Wars... while I wish there was no retrobolting and live for long trad days, I hope all Bolt War veterans head the newish conduct. Just remove the hangers... it'll do the job... when you start chopping and crowbaring things it's always the rock that loses no matter who is right. Somebody will come back, make a new hole etc...
Jan 3, 2003
I did this with you Steve. it's not that good. -Fred Knapp
Jul 15, 2002
Sgts. Roly Poly and Ritchie? Since when did those guys get a promotion? I thought they were merely sea-men on the poop deck.
Apr 21, 2002
These bolts need to be chopped! Sgt. Roly Poly and Sgt. Ritchie should quit spraying bolts near crax.
Apr 20, 2002
there are bolts next to the cracks near the top of this pitch thanks to Stu Ritchie
Aug 27, 2001
- Epiphany
Epiphany is a prime example of an excellent gear-protected route that would have otherwise been a mediocre sport route if rap bolted to Boulder Canyon standards. The rock quality is excellent, and the gear is just where you need it and nowhere else. The hard moves are well-protected by small gear, and the easy moves require confidence and commitment. There are several other quality routes in the canyon that could have been gear routes or trad routes with minimal bolts but were reduced to mediocrity by placing bolts next to good gear placements or by over-bolting in general. This is not one of them, thanks to the FAs. If you don't want to bring the whole rack: I didn't use anything larger than a purple-blue offset Mastercam, although you could place a blue-yellow offset Mastercam down low. I recommend bringing the smallest offset nut, a couple tiny stoppers, at least a small RP or two, and two purple Mastercams. All of the gear placements are solid.
May 25, 2017
Agree that this is a fine pitch, one that I overlooked on my first few visits to this crag (the best crag in Boulder Canyon?) I thought the climbing was consistently thought provoking, up to a great rest, and then a full-on crux. Bonus points for finishing on the fun finger crack shared with Arms Bazaar. As for pro, I felt adequately protected on all the 5.10 and above sections. Not R, but bring RPs, and don't botch the crux gear. -Scott
Oct 22, 2010
This is a really nice route, with good climbing on good rock. Not really R, but not really Fisher-Price either. Split the difference and call it PG-13, with good gear available but involving a bit of work. Consistent climbing in the 10-ish range with a brief crux.
Sep 20, 2009
- Epiphany Direct
- Freak on a Leash
This is a great climb. Very cryptic and delicate. It has it all, slopers, crimps, dynos, and high steps. Quality rock, quality climb. It felt hard for the grade, but who cares?
Jun 5, 2017
This route is a classic and deserves more attention. Seems like it will be easier if you are tall, and good conditions really help as well. The crux section reminded me of Public Solitude in CCC but with opposite hand holds. Slopers on the right side and crimpers on the left. Clipping throughout the crux can be difficult, but long draws help in spots. The stone is amazing, and the moves are so fun.
Jun 20, 2015
---Begin rant--- At 5'6", this route felt mid-13 to me. Maybe it's a bit easier if you are a lot taller, I don't know. I'm a bit annoyed with the grade on MP, if it takes a "12d" climber "special" tricks to send, then it isn't a 12d. Sport climbing has moved far beyond 5.12, there really isn't any need to sandbag at this grade. ---End rant--- The meat of the route is very short lived: two 1 move boulder problems (albeit with some bumping & foot moves) between a bolt high up (3rd from the top) on the route, and you don't really carry pump into it. As with other routes at this crag, it's quite condition-dependent (cool & dry preferred). I found a bad hand jam & a right knee scum, so consider bringing your arsenal for that (not critical).
Sep 19, 2014
YO, sorry if this seems underrated but both Chip and myself are old school and did not feel like it was harder than 12d (i.e. if we could do it it was not 5.13). The route was Chip's idea. When I finally did it, I lightened my load by leading it on a 9mil rope. Fun, devious crux, don't clip the last 2 bolts until after you do the crux.
Aug 5, 2008
Glad to hear it. I went at it a few times before I gave up. Thought it was over my head. Usually I can work out 5.12 moves with some effort, unless they are very thin slopers. But in this case, no, not at all.
Jul 31, 2008
Not only is this harder than many Boulder Canyon 13a's, it is most likely harder than EVERY Boulder Canyon 13a. I have heard that one local, who has sent several 5.14s, thought it was mid-5.13. Given its difficulty and severely sandbagged grade, I really wonder how many redpoints this route has actually seen. Excellent climbing though.
Jul 29, 2008
- Front Line
Both bolts were replaced in the original holes. Hardware for the bolt replacement was provided by the ASCA. Please consider donating: safeclimbing.org.
Sep 7, 2017
- Frontier
The bolts were replaced next to the original bolts, which were removed and the holes patched. Unfortunately the original 1986 bolts were 1/2" drop-in bolts, which are not currently removable such that the hole can be reused. Hardware for the bolt replacement was provided by the ASCA. Please consider donating: safeclimbing.org.
Sep 7, 2017
- Gates of Eden
Second time on this route and I really enjoyed it... this time. Unique groveling for the front range! As of today there are links on this climbs' anchor that worked well for rappelling. The bolts are spaced about a foot apart and are not ideal for lowering.
Sep 17, 2017
Fun route. Not very sustained, but thoroughly enjoyable climbing the whole way to the anchor. No gear larger than a #1 or 2 are needed. Feels 5.9 at worst - there are hand jams everywhere, and I have small hands. Maybe solid 5.10 if you use the heavily chalked, flat, sloping crimp rail and the ticked V14 slab foot chips down low, rather than the bomber constricted hand jams, perfectly good foot jams and gigantic ledge on the left. The bottom looks hard, but there are huge jugs as you go to start what I expected to be overhanging arm bars. Not much actual OW involved but a great climb nonetheless.
Aug 3, 2016
It's possible, though not mandatory, to place a #4 on this route. After the hard climbing, which is well-protected by singles in the hand size or smaller range, there's a perfect pod for a #4. I still find it odd that the anchor for this is two bolts sans chains or rappel equipment. Anyway, move left to the anchor of Hound Dog to get off this rig.
Jun 13, 2016
Less of a struggle then I expected. A solid knee bar off the ground kept the bottom overhang at 5.10-. Small and varied sizes in the back of the crack allow one to leave the doubles behind.
Jun 24, 2013
I think 10- is about right. Good start move and then it lets up. No 4s needed ....
Sep 3, 2012
This climb is pretty tough. The opening overhang has spaced hand jams with weird feet. However, once you get into the offwidth the climbing becomes easier--but getting into the thing is challenging. Look for the sidepulls on the right side of the chimney
Oct 15, 2003
I lugged a #4 (Camalot) and doubles on the hand sizes, and ended up only using a single rack up to a #3. The crack in the back of the flare varies in size enough that you don't need lots of big gear. Rather than going up and way left to the anchors on Hound Dog, it's very easy to place a directional and step right to the anchors at the top of the new bolt route on the arete just right of Double Jeopardy (Yeah, the one with the bolts right next to the crack). If you runner the route well, you can lower off these anchor bolts and belay from the ground.
Aug 8, 2003
Gates of Eden is a pretty cool route. I agree that doubles of fist size stuff makes it seem less scary. It's a good alternative if people are on Cosmosis and West Face. Don't be put off by its daunting appearance.
Oct 14, 2002
Steve's right about the workout for NE Buttress of HCR in Yosemite, except that you should hike Green Mountain first. NE Butt is the 5.9 climber's Astroman. It is big, burly, and the second half is much harder than the first half. Even 5.11 and above climbers (like Steve) respect this route.
May 23, 2002
Gear to a #3 Camalot or #4 Friend sounds good to me. The opening overhang is tough for 10a and somewhat insecure. I remember wishing I had a second fist-sized piece.
May 22, 2002
- Grand Inquisitor
That should be Alec Sharp (no 'e' on the end) for the FA. I believe Chuck Fitch was also involved.
Jul 12, 2015
Thanks for your work, Jo! You did a great job. I had to search for the old, patched up bolt holes.
Jul 11, 2015
Didn't find any knee lock on this one, pretty pumpy climbing with a difficult crux that felt harder than .12a especially when compared to Arms Bazaar. The runout up top gets easier the higher you go, but you go a ways above that last bolt!
Sep 23, 2012
myuctv.com/video?id=1192 Little vid I made from a day out mid summer.
Sep 13, 2009
I replaced the hanger on the 3/8" stud (bolt that protects the opening dyno)--please don't take it. Would be great if someone took the time to pull the old buttonhead. --josh wharton
Jun 13, 2004
The hanger on the lower bolt is missing (5-20-04). It needs to be replaced.
May 20, 2004
- Headwall
- Hound Dog
Really fun! Almost every move was good, very sustained. One of the best in the canyon at the grade. I'm 6'2", and it still felt 11ish. The pump was formidable.
Sep 19, 2016
Actually has ten bolts before the anchor.
Aug 17, 2016
Great route. Pleasantly large holds for clipping. Mostly 5.10 moves with a few 5.11 cruxes.
Jun 20, 2012
They should have named this route something to do with the fact that if you fall at the start, you are going to be violated mercilessly by the tree. It would be a very unpleasant experience, but the climbing is pretty easy at the start.
Sep 15, 2011
I had a hell of a time with the crux being 5'5". I moved left to some decent/crimpy side pulls and was able to barely pull the crux that way. I tried going straight up and was about 5" too short. This move is very height dependent. I give it 11a/b.
Jun 11, 2011
The crux is certainly height dependent. My 6' partner cruised it, I found it about right at 11a and I'm 5'8". Our third party member, at 5'2" could not get the crux move clean.
May 19, 2009
At 5'7", the crux moves felt hard to me, but I think if you are 5'10" or taller, you avoid the difficulties. Maybe for the taller, the crux is located elsewhere as the hold 6" above my crux is very positive. So I'll chime in with 10+/11- and if you can reach 6" more than me I'll guess sustained 10-??? Overall, a nice climb to do while visiting Bell Buttress.
Jul 18, 2006
Great climb, but if you are 5'2" or under, it is a very powerful reachy crux on sh*ty holds.
Jul 11, 2003
All comments relevant to the trad/bolted/headpointing/ethics discussion has been moved to the features section of the site (should show up tommorrow). Geez, I leave for a week and all hell breaks loose. :-)
Jul 17, 2002
Awfully easy for 11a. Seems like a good first 5.11 for people.
May 22, 2002
I have to concur on this one; steep and relatively sustained, but well protected. Just don't blow the second clip or you'll have the tree stump anal probe experience.
Aug 12, 2001
One of the best bolted lines in Boulder Canyon of this grade. The climbing is sustained and the crux well protected. The finishing moves are now protected by a bolt and a cam is no longer needed for the 5.9 exit moves.
Jul 27, 2001
- Joe Pontiac
I led this route yesterday. First I tried right of the tree. I'm 5'8" and have long legs, and yet I was unable (or unwilling) to rock on to the high left sloper, while using a crumbling right-hand crimp. Starting to the left of the tree was even harder. So I started in front of the tree and made quick progress — for a few feet — until I couldn't find another hold, and there was no pro. The rock bulged against my helmet, and resting was difficult. I was already exposed to the ledge falling way below to the left — and the drop-off below the ledge — and was feeling like a treed puma above a pack of barking dogs. Moving down was unthinkable; I had to move up to find pro. A long reach found a good hold and even more commitment. I could hear the bounty hunter cocking his rifle. I moved up again and found my first placement: a #3/4 Metolius Offset TCU in a pocket. Long reaches to place a #2/3 Offset TCU and a #7 DMM Offset nut made me feel more secure. More hard cranking over a series of bulges got me to the anchors. While I agree that most modern Bolted Canyon ratings are soft, I think this route is 5.9. My second, Mike Endicott, who is much stronger than I, volunteered that rating as he arrived at the belay. The rock quality is generally excellent and the moves interesting, so I think this route deserves more stars.
Jul 27, 2012
- Little Man in the Boat
I heard there's a sweet mono you really have to work on this one....
Sep 10, 2001
- North Face
The thin crack is very good. I didn't do the Unknown 5.10.a, but it looks like doing the unknown 5.10a bolts to the start of the crack would make this a very vice pitch.
Aug 2, 2012
Rack to a #3 Camalot.
Nov 20, 2007
- Pitts, The
Fantastic climb! The first pitch of Bell Air is a nice pitch in its own right, and gets you up to this cool crack. I'll post a few pictures of the route, but this is a hard route to photograph. The pictures distort what the climbing is all about. This is an overhanging, right-leaning crack that involves gymnastic climbing (i.e. not a plug-and-chug steep handcrack). The movement reminded me of Death and Transfiguration, albeit much shorter. The pro is a little strange until you are established in the crack, but if you look around you can keep it safe. I was very happy to have a red metolius TCU (1.5 Fr. size) to place in a small pocket at the start of the bulge. Doubles on .75-2 Camalots were nice. It's not obvious what to do when the main crack peters out. Another crack angles right, or it looks like you can rock left onto the slab. I went right and found great climbing. Moving right was one of the cruxes of the route, but it felt like this is where the route goes. The slab would go, but would probably be runout, and looked covered in lichen. 2 rap bolts at the top (i.e. no rings). This would be a hard route to set a TR on without a lot of directionals. I cannot comprehend soloing this route. Bad-ass.
Sep 6, 2009
This is an excellent route. I believe it has been soloed by Eric Goukas.
Dec 14, 2004
- Purpose, The
It is most interesting to read Alex's posting of his route. Most of it is accurate. What I find rather amusing, but also a bit disturbing, is the statement that Alex was okay with Steve chopping the route. I did talk to both Alex & Jeff on several occasions about the route & its removal, over the course of a year, before I decided to go toprope on it. I remember both Alex & Jeff being rather upset & disgruntled that their route had been removed. After toproping The Purpose, I saw no reason that the route should have been chopped. It is a good climb that warrants the bolts & doesn't infringe on the Grand Inquisitor. The Purpose doesn't provide an escape to the RP protected climbing above the 1st bolt of GI. It has always been possible to traverse right from the last bolt of GI to bail out & avoid its run-out finish. I know this, because I traversed off to Gates Of Eden in 1982. Dieckoff felt it was squeezed, & he chopped the route shortly after its first ascent. Therefore, no consensus of opinions about the climb was ever allowed to be established. What gave one individual the right to decide the fate of this route & others? He had certainly bolted routes in Eldorado. I was not a pioneer of significant routes in Boulder Canyon & had no business playing judge, jury, & executioner. Bolting new lines was a well accepted practice in Boulder Canyon in the 1990s, as it is today. While Alex calls Bell Buttress a mostly trad crag, there are a significant number of sport routes on the crag. Verve was in fact the first sport climb in the canyon. In 2000, Dieckoff felt that no more sport routes should be established on Bell Buttress. Quite a few good sport routes were established by Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, Dan Levison, Roger Moulina & Matt Samet over the next 8 years. Thankfully, the freedom to place bolts & establish new routes still reigns in Boulder Canyon. I used glue-in bolts to discourage any further removal or chopping of bolts on the route. I added what it now the 6th bolt, because it seemed silly to have to place a RP between the 4th & 5th bolt. I also added the 1st bolt for two reasons. First with the idea that either someone strong could climb the route without stickclipping. Secondly, even if you do stickclip, it helps to keep the rope out of the way & serves as a control bolt for the belayer (making catching falls & holding a hang dogging leader easier). Some gear (medium stoppers- #1 Camalot) is still needed for the crack finish. A beautiful route with a very hard start.
Jul 14, 2017
Gold standard "California 12b."
Jan 13, 2016
Pretty sand bagged at 12b. Burly crux. Fun.
Jul 4, 2014
I'm not concerned about the bolts, but I would like to know where the 12b rating comes from, must be some trickery. Is it 12b if you do the 12a GI start and traverse in after the Purpose crux? That seems about right. If you start at the Gates of Eden crack and traverse slightly left into the slopers, I believe the crux to be more like V6/7 and then some 5.11 and easier climbing above. So, more like powerful 12c? Straight up, no traversing in from right or left, wold be cool but at least a V7 boulder problem on a rope. Coming in from the right was fun. BTW, there were no rings on the top bolts, so I left 2 clips up there.
May 22, 2010
- Route That Dan Missed, The
I'm trying to figure out where this route goes. I posted a picture above of this region of the wall, that I'm hoping someone will copy and draw a line on. The comments above clarify that Rossiter (and Bob D) got the info wrong about the two bolts, but I'm wondering if they at least have the route drawn in the right place. Does it go up the right side of the arete on slopers, or is it on the steeper ground left of the arete?
Aug 22, 2011
Mark, OBJECTION, OBJECTION!! My partner and I sought this route (The Route That Dan Missed) for the exact qualities bolts would extinguish, including "connect the dot". Not all routes are for all people. Puhhhlease leave it as-is! What does Marc say about the retro-bolt idea? He'd probably want to remove any fixed RPs (if any exist)! The route's name and significance have come to represent a poignant reminder of old-school climbing that stands, proud and comfortable, in sharp contrast to the numerous bolted routes in Boulder Canyon. Give us the story; head-point or ground-up? Hats-off to the first one up this stretch of rock.
Apr 17, 2002
My friend Marc Gay and I did the FA of "The Route That Dan Missed" a long time ago (late '80s?). Of course, there are no bolts on it, although the guide shows bolts. It is 5.10 R+. There is quite a lot of unprotected 5.9 above the initial crux. I've thought of adding bolts recently and certainly wouldn't mind seeing it made safer. If memory serves, it is a good pitch that makes a nice finish to Cosmosis. If there are no objections, I will try to find the time to retro-bolt it, or I'll consider it open to anyone else so inclined.
Apr 16, 2002
I did the "Route That Dan Missed" arete to the left and concur that the route is NOT bolted and is R/X and has some (*gulp*) questionable holds. The aforementioned variation is somewhat dangerous and has a bit of objective hazard. This would be an unwise lead for a climber who is not very solid on 5.10 (as in, couldn't skip a few questionable holds). Being up there in a state of fear/panic would be bad news all around. That said, I wouldn't change it.
Apr 16, 2002
"The beautiful bolted arete". Yeah, right. Sorta' oxymoronic, eh?
Apr 15, 2002
Beware about a cool looking variation to the last pitch of Cosmosis, called in Rossiter "The Route that Dan Missed". Despite what Rossiter's topo would lead one to believe, THERE ARE NO BOLTS on this arete variation, making it 5.10R/X. Anybody know the history on this? My info is from a few years ago, so it's possible the bolts are there now, but check for them before launching blindly into the lead.
Jun 11, 2001
- Saved by the Bell
This route is actually pretty good and takes a pretty distinct line. Good job to the FA crew on this one. I think the route's crux is a legitimate Bocan 11a and is also pretty height dependent. My girlfriend had difficulties through the crux because of her height or lack thereof. The crux face climbing is a bit devious. The upper dihedral is excellent 5.8ish climbing to a really great, mid-10 crux. All in all, this is a great gear lead and would serve as a great warm up for Arms Bizaar, The Spoils, etc. Also a #4 Camalot can be placed on route in a wider section about half-way up.
Dec 2, 2012
After a few years of additional traffic, the bird doo and lichen is pretty much gone and the route is cleaner.
Oct 24, 2012
Surprisingly good and easily overlooked. I never even really noticed it before. D'Antonio's new guidebook doesn't have this route listed and shows it on the topo as Epiphany Variation, but after reading the route description for that on MP (called Epiphany Direct) that route is obviously over to the right, and strays off of Epiphany, as you would expect.
Aug 26, 2009
This is a really nice route. Well protected, long, with a second crux near the top. The only detraction is a little bid of bird crap and a bit of lichen. There is a blocky section midway up, but it is easy to work around it. I thought this was one of the better gear lines in the canyon.
Aug 24, 2009
- Spoiled Moose, The
@ChanVan, thanks so much!!! Glad to see someone has scoped it out too! It is definitely quite a bit runout! Scary!
Dec 4, 2015
Whoa! Nice one! Scoped that line with a friend, and they came suuuper close to adding a bolt to the face after the rest. Looks like the bar has been raised! That is quite the runout on gear and way hard! Kudos on a bad-ass send!
Nov 25, 2015
Thanks, Stephen Felker!!!
Oct 22, 2015
Nice addition, Molly!
Oct 19, 2015
- Spoils, The
Warning: if you are belaying someone on lead, anchor yourself and/or make sure the climber does not skip the bomber #0.5 Camalot placement right off the ledge. Otherwise, if all the gear rips, there is a very good chance both of you will tumble down the ledge.
Aug 29, 2013
This will never be down graded at 12 a/b. A stellar line on perfectly formed granite. If only Boulder Canyon had more like this!
Sep 27, 2007
- Three Minute Hero
- Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness)
So... more holds have broken. Yesterday I busted a key foot off in the pictured sequence and Patrick Burns busted off a key crimp seen in the picture; both of us were trying the sequence up the arete. The sequence still goes (on the dog for me) but the foot is now a swear and the crimp is smaller.
Mar 19, 2009
What have you done Ted!!!jaja Shit hapens, don`t worry..Do you think that now the route still the same grade??
Oct 8, 2008
Thought I'd let you know that I broke a hold just right of the 4th bolt of this climb. Now the top crux is pretty darn hard, especially if you ascend via the face crimp holds and not the arete. I think an alternative sequence could still go for some strong dude/dudette. Sorry folks!
May 16, 2008
Justin Sjong did the first ascent. His rating was 5.13b and he said it was very nice to climb a hard new route in Boulder Canyon. Apparently though it has been spitting off a lot of other strong climbers according to Justin. Roger - send me an email! I'm putting the Yosemite photos in the mail tomorrow for you.
Mar 14, 2008
Hi, this is Roger Molina from Spain. I equipped the route a few months ago when I was living in Boulder. I was very close to make the FA but I hade to leave for more important stuff in the Valley. I hope you like it....
Mar 11, 2008
I believe Song did the FFA, but who equipped this route (FA)?
Mar 4, 2008
- Tiers
- Unknown
- Unknown Crack
- Verve
Really great route, especially for Boulder Canyon. Pay the price of admission and bear-down on those razors to start and then enjoy some of the best movement in Bo Can. Also, non-reachy beta exists for the upper sequence. It is a shame that the edge on the arete up high is drilled because the route would certainly still go without it, and probably only a letter grade harder.
Mar 19, 2012
A full explanation of the "Four-Plan" is here. (read through all the comments)
Dec 19, 2009
Four-plan... come tell... me interest in making up on this for going top... ???
Dec 18, 2009
Sven also "made flash" of this as part of his "four-plan."
Dec 18, 2009
Agreed, the original Sven description is very funny. Here it is for the record before it gets blasted away and lost in cyberspace history: "This is a nice climb up a clean arete on very good granite stone. It is a short route with much climbing on not so difficult moves, but the crux is a short sequence of thin holds quite on the arete. With care in looking at the Verve before starting to climb, it was not so difficult make a good flash. Climbing up to the crux near the third bolt was not too difficult so it is possible to be refreshed before starting to make the thin moves. Mostly it is important to be careful with placing the feet in order to get into good balance for the thin hands. It is a steep climb and needed a good combination of balance and finger power in the thin moves. To finish the Verve route, the climbing becomes quite easy."
Dec 18, 2009
Sven was a troll, but I remember him being a hilarious one!
Dec 14, 2009
Colin, FYI, "Sven" is a legendary troll from the climbingboulder.com days. I'm pretty sure he's not a real person, and his story is a fabrication, though it wouldn't be too surprising these days if someone were to flash a route like this. PS, your comments are very much appreciated! Keep 'em coming.
Dec 13, 2009
I did the second ascent of this route on June 22, 1989. I think this is one of the best routes Christian ever put up in the Boulder area. The movement and positioning are first class IMO. I concur with Taylor on the modified hold. On the edge in question you can clearly see a drill bit hole. I don't think C.G. was responsible for this. I think someone else was working on the route first and did the damage. Attached is my beta map from 1989 that shows the hand and feet placements I used. The chiseled/drilled hold made the "mega reach" move, which is the second crux, much easier and it made it possible to match and switch hands on this hold. I've lived in Nederland since 2003 and drive up the canyon almost every day. I always look up to see if anyone is on Verve and I have never seen another party on it. It's a great route and deserves more traffic. Thanks Dan for replacing the bolts, and thanks to Matt and the ARI. C. Lantz beta map for Verve.
Dec 13, 2009
I replaced the 4 bolts on Verve today with Roy Barnes. 3 of the bolts were 20+ year-old Mammut Ring bolts, and the 4th bolt was an 8mm Allen Mammut bolt (scary condition). All old holes were patched. The new hardware is 1/2" x 2.75" stainless Powers bolts with Petzl hangers. Special thanks to Matt Samet (Climbing Magazine) and the ARI for supplying the hardware!
Jul 15, 2008
This route should be registered as a modified route. The crux sequence involves a drilled out edge on the arete.
May 8, 2003
- West Crack
A more full-value finish would be to go to the anchors of Beethoven's Fifth. There's a pin along the way, and then cut left. No more difficult than getting to the anchors of West Face. This way you could also TR Beethoven's Fifth and fiddle gear for your future RP ascent.
Dec 5, 2012
I liked this route a lot, pretty much solid liebacking all the way up, also kind of burly moves. Much harder than West Face on lead, I would give this one a 5.10a. BTW, my friend who cleaned caused my #0.5 Camalot C4 to walk into a crack and not return. If you find it and feel like doing a good deed, holler at me. I would greatly appreciate it. Otherwise it's yours and it's certainly not a lost cause for someone with small fingers :)
Aug 2, 2012
Pumpy and fun! Regarding where to traverse right, I climbed straight up until I was dead-even with the anchors to the right. This may be incorrect, judging from the comments and the photo in D'Antonio's book, but there was definitely interesting climbing all the way to the top.
Jul 16, 2010
Rossiter's book is a bit vague on this, but I think the way most people do it is to keep going up the crack system beyond the large flake that the guy in the photo is straddling, for a few powerful moves. I agree with the folks above that find this to be the crux of the pitch. When the difficulty eases, you can angle up and right to the anchor on West Face. In the photo there is a blocky shape on the skyline to the right of where the crack becomes a v-slot in the skyline. I angle right under this formation.
Apr 17, 2006
I have done West Face and started up West Crack but was confused about where the route eventually merges into West Face towards the top (like the Falcon guide says). I pulled out right about 3/4 the way up the route where the roof block formation is (the thing the guy is straddling in the picture). Is this right or do you keep heading up the crack more and then cut over right? If you know and respond I would appreciate it.
Sep 18, 2003
Some of the best crack climbing I've ever done. The fingerlock laybacks at the crux are out of this world. Better than Cosmosis. Three stars.
Jul 13, 2002
This is definitely a slightly more committing lead than West Face. Both climbs start at the same point, and I basically climbed the same rock for the first 10 or 15 feet or both routes. There are a couple obvious finger locks a couple feet apart that mark the point where I committed to West Crack proper. I thought this was the leading crux, as I placed TCUs in each lock and pulled through a few solid 5.9 moves to the next stance. If these TCUs fail in fall, you'll probably feel it. If I had 2 #3 Camalots on this pitch, I would have placed both of them. But, I was able to get another piece in at the higher widish crack. I had minor route finding issues at the top of both this route and West Face, but no big deal.
Sep 4, 2001
I toproped this after leading West face again this morning.....I have to disagree that this is harder than west face (after leading west face my buddy tr'd it, then I tr'd it, lowered while setting directional for West Crack and then TR'd it right away with my pump still going, it felt no harder than west face to me)..... it would most definitely be harder to lead due to the discontinuous crack and pumpy stances for the interspersed gear placements but I felt that on toprope they were both 9+ and that West Face was actually a little more strenuous and just as sustained (I'm more comfy face climbing than pure crack). I find it very strange that West Face is almost entirely a crack climb while West Crack is almost entirely a face climb..... both are 3 star climbs in my opinion, as is Cosmosis and I agree with Charles that the crux is the lieback move just above the chalked up flake..... still have yet to do Double jeapordy (looks crappy)... the Bell buttress marathon is my goal for one of these weekends (cept' I think I'll TR West Crack and wait until I'm solid 5.10 leader before trying to lead that one).
Aug 4, 2001
- West Face
I've climbed quite a bit of 9 in the area recently, and this was a step up in difficulty. Felt more challenging than Dead Can Dance on Avalon or Hair City on the Bastille. Also harder than West Crack IMO.
Jul 11, 2013
There is a placement for a #0 Metolius in the crack on the right side of the fin when you are standing on the pedestal before pulling the roof. The placement is relatively good, and it gives the leader a piece at the roof. Oddly, "West Face" is much more of a pure crack climb (below the roof) than "West Crack," which uses the face much more.
Jun 9, 2012
Great climb. Sort of runout, mildly, after the roof. Prod.
Apr 29, 2012
Yeah, I kind of thought so, too.
Jun 30, 2009
The West Face contains one of the best knee bars that I've ever done on natural rock. The knee bar is of the horizontal type. Your left toe fits into a notch and your left knee is pushed up against a corner just below the first roof. At this position, you can comfortably place a RP and a number 5 BD nut to protect the roof. The knee bar provides a nice rest for a sustained old school 5.9 route.
Jun 29, 2009
This is rated 9+ in my guide (Boulder Climbs North), which I think is accurate.
Jun 4, 2006
About ten feet up the route a shallow right facing corner starts. This corner lasts for about ten feet, at which point you are standing beneath the roof. Near the top of where the corner runs out, on the left face, a series of flakes exist. The first one I encountered was well chalked but extremely loose and I avoided using it. After finishing the route, my friend ripped this leg-sized flake loose with very minimal effort. The scariest part about leaving this thing in place would be what would happen to the belayer directly below. So.... the route has not changed in quality or difficulty (you'd be nuts to use that flake, but the chalk indicated that lost of people had and it was only a matter of time before someone yarded on it just a little too much), and should be cleaner, but just be aware of that spot. JGH
Sep 22, 2003
Led this tonight...IMO it's the best (9) trad route on Bell and ranks high as best at the grade in the entire canyon. The move right off the top of the small pinacle just past the roof is awesome...took me awhile to find the hidden hold up high. Great position there. The entire route is well-protected and interesting. A must do....
Sep 10, 2003
If you want to continue . . . climb straight up on easy terrain past the rap anchor to a ledge. Above you is a lonely piton and not much pro -- that's 15, "Headwall." Instead, traverse R thru a bit of brush, then up the dihedral. Good pro, fun roof, then very easy climbing. P2 is just over 100'
Jul 19, 2002
This one is rising as one of my favorite pitches in Boulder Canyon. I absolutely loved it. There are so many good moves on this climb (fingerlocks, stems, laybacks, a couple roofs to manueaver - the second and crux roof is a GAS) that I had a perm-a-grin all afternoon. Three stars. Cosmosis drew me to the area, West Face and West Crack will have me coming back!
Jul 13, 2002
I have to agree....went and led this yesterday and it is definately one of the best pitches of crack climbing in Boulder Canyon... exciting, steep, sustained, FUN.... The part above roof is a bit thin, but easy stemming will get you to the anchors if you stay left (easier than it looks/seems). RECOMMENDED....
Jul 26, 2001
Great climb. A must do! Before the roof place some bomber pro, because the moves over the roof are scary since all I could find to protect them is small wires (2-#3s). Yikes!!
Jul 25, 2001
- Wrinkles
- Patio, The
- Antebellum
Another good strenuous route at this crag. You can choose between bigger gear in better rock and more obstruction or smaller gear in less quality rock at the start - and this is a pretty key decision. The book says the crux is at the thin crack roof, but I thought this section was a lot easier than the start. A bit on the dirty side up higher, but not too bad. Well worth doing.
Jun 30, 2014
This one seemed about the right grade, but by merit of its size. I thought it was a pretty awkward size for my hands. Bigger = better, I believe.
Jun 12, 2006
This seemed like the best, and hardest, of the routes down on the Patio. I would give it 2 stars. This is a fun little crag to climb on, good shade 'til early afternoon. No offense, and a great service putting these routes in, but the grades seemed a bit soft on all these routes.
May 23, 2002
- Bell Bottom
- Bell Bottom Blues
Fun moves. Would get more stars if the rock quality were better. Mostly moss n' choss, nothing too loose. Thought it was at least a full letter grade harder than Bean Bagger up the hill, mostly for how sustained it is.
Oct 10, 2011
It might clean up more, but my partner ripped down a large flake on this climb and I broke off a foothold on Bell Bottom that actually hit her. These climbs have been around a while but still feel fairly new. Be careful up there, especially on the approach slab.
May 3, 2011
- Bottom Feeder
Kind of a weird route. Sort of a mixed route, yet in the upper climbing bolts are literally 6 inches away from good cracks. Yet, the crux section isn't very well-protected against the rampy/ledgy stuff below. If the protection was better thought out and the route adequately cleaned (bushes, lichen, crumbly rock), this would be a 1 or 2 star route. Half star in its current state.
Jun 30, 2014
- Carrying Futons
Fun climbing with good protection. The opening section didn't feel much easier than the 12a's to the right, albeit a bit more brief.
Jun 30, 2014
I thought this was a great (albeit short) route, and I'm psyched to go back for the redpoint. I stick-clipped #1. There is usually a suitable stick at the base for this purpose. The key (BETA!) for me was finding the left kneebar that allowed me to clip #2. Without that, I get too pumped trying to clip #2. You can rest on the kneebar for a second after clipping and proceed.
Aug 3, 2011
Merry Maids and a few more ascents will bring this route squarely into "stardom". So much lichen and mess dropped down on my tee-shirt, it took a few minutes to find it... Certainly, worth doing. I must have missed the "jug on the left"... I'd say solid 11.c
Mar 26, 2004
Hmmm...I hope that this is not cheating, but, if start on the left side of opening dihedral and grab the huge block on the left, one can make the crux move passing bolt 1 for two or three letter grades easier. A big reach to the right by-passes most of the hard stuff. Another fun line by Bob and Vaino.
Jul 18, 2003
A blast. Much better and more sustained than it looks. I would rate it 11d, since it's only a touch easier than its 12a neighbors, War on Peace and Underbelly.
Sep 24, 2002
- Clyde's Big Adventure
Slim, if you want to relocate the clip and put in anchors, be my guest. Thanks, Matt.
Jul 7, 2014
The climbing and protection on the lower half are perfect. On the upper section, the climbing is still good, but the bolting isn't the best. Between the 5th and 6th bolt, be prepared for tenuous climbing with a post-crux pump and bad ledge fall potential below your right foot. Falling here could be really, really bad. Another detraction is sharing the anchor out right with War on Peace, which makes for a traffic jam and difficult cleaning. If these minor issues were spruced up, this would definitely be a 3 star route, as the climbing is the best of the routes at this crag.
Jun 30, 2014
Clyde got my lunch on this one (he's good at that by the way). Couldn't figure out how to stay on the line at bolt #5 without going over into War on Peace. Tried to stem through it, but maybe there's a way to use the referenced hip scum thing that I didn't try. Seemed way harder than War on Peace. Both routes are great additions to the Bocan set of routes.
Aug 4, 2011
Great route albeit a bit of a squeeze job. Killer knee bar getting over the initial roof (not the crux), had to stay disciplined not to veer left or right to the neighboring routes. A crux at mid-height replete w/ knee and hip scum will take off the edge while looking for a little crimp to get over a slight bulge. Slightly sporty in a couple places as most new routes will clean up and become quite good 2 stars (12a/b). Great addition to the Patio!
May 7, 2008
Clyde's come a long way, baby! good boy!
Apr 22, 2008
- El Patio
- For Whom the Bell Tolls
This is another route at the patio that starts out with excellent climbing and protection and then kind of fizzles out. If the anchors were placed at the top of the dihedral, this would probably be a 2 or 3 star route. Unfortunately, you are forced to climb/traverse through munge to get to the anchor on the left hand route. You end up spending more time horsing around on this crap than climbing the good section of the dihedral.
Jun 30, 2014
Interesting problem, interesting climbing, solid stone, fun stemming moves on friction pads. Watch your footing on the ledge below the anchor; this would be a nasty place to fall. Bit of a stretch for the last clip. Kudos again to the prolific Bob and Vaino.
Jul 18, 2003
Be sure to do your yoga beforehand as the wide stemming in the 10+ corner was about enough to pop my stiff legs out of joint. I had to boulder up and down the tricky crux start about 97 times before figuring it out, but I have to agree with Fred: 11b, though really fun climbing all the same. For those who get offended by overbolting, the right-leaning corner, which looks blank from below, will hold bomber gear placements that could easily eliminate 3 or 4 bolts. Placing the pro would make it more challenging, as the gear might fill some of the fingerlocks, but the gear would be pretty darn good. If the unneeded bolts bother you, "you shoulda done it first" and "go climb somewhere else," etc.
Jul 23, 2002
I enjoyed the route, but differ with the grade. In real-life it's 11b. It looks like Sport Park grades are becomming the norm in Boulder Canyon. -Fred Knapp
Jul 15, 2002
- Poolside
For what it's worth, I found this route really rather fun to figure out. I really enjoyed the beta intensive nature of the route. Definitely worth having a go at for people who like bouldery sport routes.
Jul 29, 2005
- Underbelly
Agree with ac - this should have ended just above the start. The climbing above this is absolute garbage: absolutely filthy, mungy rock, crappy climbing. The icing on the cake is having to share the anchor out right, which tries to force you to re-climb it to clean your gear. Just say no. I thought the start of this was as hard or harder than any of the 12a's at this crag. Not a lot to work with.
Jun 30, 2014
If this is the route I think it is, then the first clip can be done from a right-leg kneebar, and no stick clip is required. Gear still seems like a good idea before it. The route is OK, but still needs a serious cleaning. What can I say? After doing 4 of these routes, I can't keep straight which is which except this one and only then because it needed a few placements (take your small TCU) and was so dirty.
Jun 12, 2006
This route should have ended just over the lip at the 2nd bolt as a V4 bolted boulder problem. The upper corner and face are chossy and lame. A seemingly solid foothold collapsed under my weight in the corner sending me for a scraping fall, so look out here. The Patio has a good collection of 1-star routes and is a great place for a quick workout. Expect bouldery cruxes at the equivalent V grade. War on Peace was the best of the bunch, and might deserve 2 stars. Underbelly is the worst. Antebellum looks quite nice, but we didn't have the right gear for that one (bring a 3.5 Camalot).
Jul 28, 2005
- War on Peace, The
Really fun climbing on this one. The only, yet common, complaint was that the last bolt didn't provide good protection for the finish, particularly for shorter climbers doing it on sight. Overall, substantially easier than Clyde's Big Adventure but still probably in the 12a range.
Jun 30, 2014
A great route with or without the kneebar. Along with Bell Tolls.. one of the better routes on the crag.
Aug 3, 2004
This route is a gas! A hard start yields to a bomber knee-lock and from there on out the climbing is reasonably moderate (10/11) and well protected. The final sequence offers as much fun as you can get legally in Boulder. Kudos to the FA guys again.
Jul 18, 2003
- Between Crackland and Wizard Rock
- Old Dragon Ballz
I would disagree with Leo that there are two pitches to this route. Yes, there is rock below the starting ledge, but I tried my best to find something harder than Class 4 to get up to the big ledge below where the meat of the route starts. Easy scramble in approach shoes and a pack on. Overall, the route is only 25 feet long (not 65) but fun!
Jul 7, 2017
Not knowing what the route was and missing the entry in Crack Land, we did a tiny approach pitch for this 2 pitch line. Most will consider skipping the 1st pitch. The first pitch is lichenous and has a discontinuous nature, but its upper half has a nice smidgen of crack. Perhaps it is 5.7.
Oct 4, 2010
Nice work, Jason! Despite being a short route, don't be fooled. It is like a little Vedauwoo simulator, with fun climbing.
Jul 31, 2010
- Bihedral Area, The
- Bihedral (Upper Tier), The
- A Fly in the Ointment
Fun, pumpy climb that offers quite the variety of climbing styles. Clips weren't bad, do this climb!
May 3, 2013
Entire route seems solid now, looks like everything that could break off did already. Fun, pumpy climb.
Mar 28, 2011
My partner broke bt bottom hold, then cleaned it up- more broke away while standing on it. I cleaned it more, then more shed while standing on it. More bound to come with time- watch the feet while clipping bolt #2. The rest of the route is more solid.
Jun 16, 2010
Climbed this today, so no prior experience with the liebacks, and I'm no powerhouse at 52. I believe more pieces will break off, but don't think it will change the grade much at 10a. Didn't see the need for any larger than a .75 camalot. Nice climb!
Oct 2, 2009
Winter has not been kind to this climb. The layback flake between the 1st and 2nd bolt is now mostly gone, pulled off yesterday afternoon (5/25/09). There are still edges and some flake to lay off of but now a mid to hard 10.
May 26, 2009
I led this today, the second clip was the most difficult to make. After that it was pretty juggy, but I didn't bring enough finger-sized cams so I ended up running it out a bit. Kind of dirty and there is some bird crap but a route worth trying if you're in the area.
Feb 3, 2009
A pumpy and committing route. We toproped the line after leading Tool King. The moves past the three bolts are strenuous liebacking and it looked difficult to let go to make the third clip. If you're not a solid 5.10 leader, better to toprope this line.
Oct 19, 2008
- AHR
Yes, we belayed from below the first bolt. The crux seems to be reaching up over the left side ledge to a crimp way in the back. Didn't see that first time around. This route is called Vortex in Bob D'Antonio's guide.
Mar 10, 2016
Referring to the comment above: The first bolt is either to belay from or to hold the rope in with. #2 and #3 are for climbing. I suppose #4 was not needed. Good route overall, kind of slick when humid. Very fun moves with some power stemming. This route is not actually above Rhodian Shores, actually above the anchor up and left of that. Better yet, continue up to the corner and belay off of gear or clip the first 2 bolts nad come down to bring your partner up.
Apr 28, 2010
It looks like you can clip the first three bolts on this guy without committing to the climb. ??? This bolting style is similiar to this The last pitch of Charisma. Start atop the second pitch of October Surprise and follow a line of 11 bolts up the obtuse corner. Sustained technical climbing with great moves for the entire pitch. Be careful of some crispy holds and friable rock. Lower from the top, then do two rappels down October Surprise (with a 60m rope) to get back down. . I guess I don't understand why you need 3 bolts in 4 feet.
Jan 4, 2008
- Acid Crack
I led Patti Smith up this on May 16, 1975. We climbed the easy gully/crack system below it, to get to the main ledge. We called the crack "Acid Crack," because we, later that day, climbed what we thought was "Acid Rock," which was in the 1972 guidebook "5.10," written by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson. Whatever we climbed was to the right of AC and to the left of the Bihedral route. We, as it turns out, didn't climb anywhere near "Acid Rock." Instead, we climbed what would later be named "Sun Spot."
Feb 15, 2014
This doesn't see a lot of traffic, so the crack is pretty hard on the hands. I lost a considerable amount of my epidermis. I would recommend tape.
Mar 29, 2013
- Acid Rock
This route lies above the right side of the Riviera. Any rock knocked off could crash down onto climbers and spectators, kids and dogs, who are oblivious to what lies above. Better avoid it on weekends and warm weekdays.
Mar 11, 2014
Yesterday, Leo Paik and I embarked upon a mini-adventure, with the noble intent of finding where Acid Rock really goes. None of it seemed familiar to me, in spite of having climbed what I THOUGHT was Acid Rock in 1975. Turns out what I thought was Acid Rock in 1975 was likely Sun Spot, which happens to be the only route that I haven't SINCE climbed on that whole sector to the left of the Bihedral route. Back to yesterday: From the base of the Bihedral route, I traversed about 120 feet to the right, placing occasional gear, along the top of a wide slab (which old-guidebook writers called a ramp). I passed what is probably the best, most direct start, up a tongue of gray rock, which would lead up toward a big leftish-facing 90-degree dihedral. Instead, I continued about 20 feet farther right and up, to where I found better placements for a belay anchor, below a bulge and at the top of the wide slab. Pitch 1: Leo led up and right about 10 feet, placed a cam and moved left, over the bulge (5.7+), He traversed unprotected slab about 20 feet to the bottom of the grainy, 90-degree dihedral, where he placed cam and extended it. He continued to the top of the steepening dihedral, past loose blocks in the funky crack and belayed on a ledge, with lots of loose rock (~90 feet, 5.8+). When I seconded, I removed the first cam and faced a cruxy move with a potentially deadly long swing down into the slab or the bulge next to it. I contemplated climbing back down to the belay, but that wouldn't be easy, and there was also big swing potential. So use double-rope technique, or start at the gray tongue, directly beneath the dihedral. Pitch 2: I contemplated escaping to the right along this ledge, because above loomed many loose features and no obvious solid pro. After fiddling in a ball nut and tiny cams, I moved up and placed a decent 0.5 C4. Better rock and pro led to a difficult, poorly protected exit past loose blocks, onto a ledge by a seven-foot Douglas fir (perhaps the "pine" referred to in the guidebooks; ~70 feet, 5.8+). Pitch 3: Leo moved left on the ledge, then angled up and right in a right-facing dihedral-ramp system, then scrambled to the top (~110 feet, 5.7). Old guidebooks rated this route 5.6. Later guidebook writers perpetuated this rating, probably because they paraphrased old publications without doing any field research.
Feb 15, 2014
- Bihedral
Concerning the gear on P2, both the guidebook and the description on this page seem far off the mark. Before the crux, I was able to place a good #2 Camalot, a red Alien in a finger pocket/slot (cool placement, but difficult to determine how great it was), and last but not least, a bomber #4 Camalot! These, of course, will all be below your toes while pulling the crux, but even a somewhat decent belayer should be able to keep you off the deck should you fall. After the crux, it's fun cruising with good gear to the anchor. Enjoy!
Jan 24, 2014
Great route. Pitch 1 is super protectable; you can do with or without the #4, but for beginning leaders, they'll definitely find the bigger piece a nice to have. There are two options for the belay at the top of pitch 1. The first is to make the trad anchor. I've made a couple (I'm a newer trad leader than sport), and I opted for making the trad anchor and made it work nicely, so it's definitely something that you can do without much experience. I used a red Alien, a green Alien, and a #0.75 Camalot with a few double length slings. The second option is if no one is on the sport route that's immediately to the left of the belay station. There's a bolted sport anchor there. If you're in a rush and no one is approaching that route (it's a 5.10a second pitch of another route), you could just clip in and be done. I did not notice the big, loose horn that Jay reported in 2008. Could be that it's not there any more, or maybe I got lucky. Overall, the first pitch is a good, weird little climb, and the second pitch is phenomenal.
Jan 20, 2014
Warning! There is a large horn about to break off midway up the first pitch. I would have removed it but was afraid of killing someone at the Riviera below. When it comes off it will impact at the base of the Bihedral Arete.
May 17, 2008
Ranks with Bitty Buttress for good BC 5.8 routes that I know of--safe if you take advantage of all gear placements (from small to 3.5 Camalot or so), but not exactly sewn up. Climbing may feel hard for the grade for those used to modern sport ratings. Do it with B. Arete and Rhodian Shores for good mix of trad, bolts, and mixed at similar grades.
May 19, 2006
After the first pitch I climbed the cool looking 5.9 crack (Heterohedral) on left wall. It was quite run-out on the face to it at 5.7+ or so, but a couple small cams made the crack above both safe and REALLY fun!
Sep 12, 2003
I was able to create a good anchor about six feet to the left of the large ledge on the top of pitch one. It's moderately hanging but took four strong cam placements in "crack pockets". At least you don't have to be sketched by the gear.
Jun 29, 2003
Good route. Equal in quality to Bihedral Arete but fully trad. Enjoy.
Jun 4, 2003
Great gear route. I thought both pitches were fun. The rock is much better and more cleanly fractured on the first pitch but the climbing is more interesting on the second. We belayed at the bolted anchor then ran it out to the good crack on the second pitch (about 50 ft.). It's a trade off; you can either have sight of your leader on the second pitch or you can have a bomber anchor. Not both.
Jun 2, 2003
This climb is a good climb. The first half left me wondering why the route is called "something of a classic" but the second half answered that question. I believe if the entire route were like the second half, that it would be a much sought-after "destination climb." The crack in the second pitch does get a little seepy after a good rain and was wet in a spot or two this past Sunday morning. The route's second half had a few spots with moves that are 'hard for 5.8' and that did not protect that well. If you can keep your cool and not overgrip on barn-door moves, you'll be OK. As well, this route is GREAT done as a single 60m pitch from the ground to the top. If you use longer slings (2' and 1') you can avoid rope drag. Go for it.
May 19, 2003
I found this climb to be very enjoyable. The second pitch esp. has a nice alpine feel. I agree with most of the comments about the approach and descent....the descent W requires minor downclimbing/butt sliding. I haven't tried the standard (Rossiter) descent...seemed much longer. I agree with Leo concerning the approach. L of Riviera offers a multitude of possibilities.
Aug 30, 2002
This looked good from the ground so I thought I'd convince my sportclimbing kid to belay me. Both by now bored with the dinky Riviera we tromped up there. The first few feet were nice but after dragging the rope through clumps of shrubs, poision ivy, and knocking rocks onto a party doing the bolted slab below, I reached a belay rigged on loose flakes more reminnescent of the Eiger. I didn't have a huge rack with me, it's 5.8 right! By the time I hit the crux, the only gear I could get in that odd groove was dangerously below. The rubble on the top could start a landfill, and, for the rest of the summer, I could not convince my kid into any more trad climbs....
Aug 22, 2002
Shad ONeel- I ended the first pitch at the bolts, placed no gear until the second pitch really began and that worked out swell. Thought it was a really fun route, especially the second pitch. Walked off west with no trouble, since I knew no better.
Jul 17, 2002
A really underappreciated route, a diamond in the rough. A variety of approaches. The easiest is a 4th class gully/corner system has poison ivy as you approach. You can do a number of trad things from left of the Riviera 5.7 or one of the L routes on the Riviera (Lease Agreement/New Lease on Life/Abandonment) and angle L 200' or even a manky long traverse in from above the Riviera. You can definitely find solid gear for 1st pitch if you look. You can definitely find good gear before the crux on the 2nd pitch. Trees are definitely the best anchors on top. This is reminiscent of climbing in the Park.
Mar 5, 2002
Sorry, two more thoughts: one comment about the gear at the first belay. Without small nuts and cams there would not have been a belay. I placed green and yellow Aliens behind a suspicious flake on the left, and equalized the #2 and #3 BD stoppers on the right. A wide setup but worked great with the double ropes. Second: BEWARE OF LOOSE ROCK!!!. The top of both pitches and the belay ledge are littered with loose rocks.
May 27, 2001
Odd comment about the gear on P2. I did this route today and found great gear. To avoid rope drag, I placed two small cams out on the face in the first 30 feet or so, also got in a bomber nut before I moved back into the crack. Through the crux I used: #4, #1, #.75 Camalots (in that order). Top is broken and loose and yes, the crux felt a little more like 5.9, but it's splitting hairs. I got a great slingshot belay off the tree and was able to sit on the edge and take in the view. Either take George's advice and go west, or resign yourself to walking all the way down to the Riviera, then on a trail back to the buttress and then scrambling back up to the ledge...not cool. Rack up at the bottom of the buttress or even the car and carry shoes. Nice climb, long waste-o-time descent.
May 27, 2001
This is a fun route but a little spicy on the second pitch. Also, I found it hard to find a good belay anchor at the top, which is a mass of rotten flakes. I went 30 ft farther to a large tree! The latest Rossiter tells you to walk off east, but I think it works out better to go west. You can traverse east back to the base of the climb (passing right under the 12a Edge of Reality).
Jan 1, 2001
- Bihedral Arete
The fall line for the second, lower rappel takes you off the left side of the arete. Probably better to head off sooner than later, so you don't pendulum too much, scraping your rope over the arete's edge.
Oct 4, 2017
Dale Haas and I replaced the 1/4" quicklinks and 3/8" links of chain at the first belay with Fixe SS double ring hangers. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA - safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. We also tightened up the third bolt on the first pitch(crux) which was very loose. As an aside, Dale and I placed those original anchors on the route shortly after the FA in 2002, so they have been up there for 14 years. Because of the leaning nature of this route, nobody ever top ropes it, which means that this anchor is only used for rappel. The 3/8" links of chain through which the rope is threaded during rappel look almost new with no real signs of wear. This is yet another example of how lowering through hardware greatly increases the wear.
Jul 25, 2016
GREAT route. My first lead on a 10. Loved every second of it. In an effort to practice more passive gear placement, the pink and brown tri-cams are great for pro around where you would put the Aliens.
Feb 18, 2014
Such a fun route! Mostly cruiser, 1 or 2 definitive cruxes....
May 3, 2013
Fun route, but if this is 5.10a, then what is the Yellow Spur? Prod.
Mar 26, 2012
Led it today. I used a 0.4 on the first pitch and a 0.5 C4 on the second. Nice route very well protected. You don't need 12 QD as stated in the book, 7 QD and 2 runners are enough.
Oct 6, 2009
I self belayed this (again) yesterday and didn't bring any trad gear. That was a mistake. There are a couple of big runouts between bolts. In particular, after the first crux is a groundfall runout on medium difficult climbing.
Apr 12, 2009
Fun route with cool moves on first pitch.
Jan 9, 2008
Good route. I don't know why I should feel thankful for not finding bolts next to cracks, but I was - made the route worthwhile. 2nd pitch was great, excellent face climbing and great pro. I'd climb again. 5.9+.
Nov 17, 2007
5.10a Such a cool route. Classic positioning and nice length. Requires some nerve and finesse, plus as an added bonus you get to place some pro!
Mar 19, 2007
Climbed both pitches today, amazing climb. Awesome exposure, freaked me out everytime I was above pro and looked down. I found it harder than 10a.... It was the first time I've seriously relied on gear, so the head game could have had an effect. Or, I might just suck. ORRRR, you might just be too good. Quit climbing so much, cut your hair, get a job. Just kidding.
Mar 13, 2007
This route is pretty good, thanks for the work. I would not rate this as a potential classic. The climbing is not sustained at the grade. There are loose blocks and sections of lower grade rock. Pitch 2 is short and ends abruptly in a strange spot. Slabberific, climb it once and maybe twice.
Feb 28, 2005
The loose block at the end of pitch one is still there as of 10/10/2004 and is moving quite easily. Trundling it would be a little dubious without some coordination given all the activity at the Riviera and the road below.
Oct 12, 2004
One of the loose blocks George is likely referring to is a two-foot spike/tooth of rock that's about two feet to the right of the last bolt on pitch 1; it flexes quite a lot.
Jul 11, 2004
I didn't think it was harder than 5.9, but I wasn't on lead. My partner didn't think it was harder than 5.9 either. Just a note: You should place some gear in the crack above the third bolt, even if the climbing to the next bolt is easy. If you don't place any gear, a fall by the second from the crux (at the third bolt) will result in a swing over the arete. This probably wouldn't be dangerous, but it would suck. You might have to lower down to get back on route.
Jun 16, 2004
This is a really fun route to lead in one pitch (about 170 ft.). I am really surprised this was not climbed earlier as it is such a classic line. A quality addition to this cliff.
Jun 8, 2004
Did this route last week. While its good by BC standards, I'd hardly call it classic. And 10a is way overrated IMHO. The crux on the first pitch is a high step and crank from good holds on the corner. Crux moves on the second pitch are thin and a little balancy, but not that bad.
Apr 21, 2004
AC, we considered trundling the block but, besides it not being fully detached (at least we did not test it), we could not see from our position if people were coming up a side trail below or down the hill for that matter. Not a liability I was interested in shouldering. I figured a heads up on this site would prevent an accident and if some one else wants to trundle it let them decide to do so. WT
Mar 29, 2004
So, uh, maybe you should have removed the block. One of us has to do it, just make sure you yell out 'rock', and throw way out from wall. Don't know of a better time, unless you climb at 3am.
Mar 29, 2004
Climbed this early yesterday amid intermitent periods of sun and snow showers. What a great climb this is indeed. Lose rock alert: There is a large flake 1x3 feet to the right and up from the last bolt of the first pitch that is ready to come off. As you reach the last bolt and you head up the easier broken section on the right, the first large handhold you reach is the top of the loose flake. I pulled on it yesterday and it pulled out while making that grainy "rock-detaching-itself-from-the-wall-sound". I pushed it back in but it is way lose, only a matter of time... When it comes off it is likely to fall right where your belayer is likely to be standing! Top Candidate for a trundle if you ask me. Be Safe, WT
Mar 29, 2004
Did this route yesterday under light snowfall, fun route! We used a few wires, Aliens and the #2 Camalot. There are a couple of loose blocks that are not obvious, and probably wouldn't come off even if you yarded on them, but who knows? Amazing that this cool route was not discovered earlier.
Mar 29, 2004
Unlike the above commments, I found this route to be a little tricky. I'd agree 9+ or 10-, slab climbing isn't my forte, and maybe I was having an off day. Nicely exposed, interesting, and I'm happy someone bolted a route leaving the places with gear for gear. Comapred to other boulder canyon 5.9 sport routes, this one seemed to be rated more like an old trad route, i.e not a gimmie for the grade, like, for example, 'pup' on neighbooring Security Risk......
Jan 20, 2004
I also thought that Rhodian Shores was a bit tougher than Bihedral Arete. Very high quality though, and well worth the scramble up to the start.
Aug 13, 2003
Good route and good boting ethics (not bolting where there is gear placements). Wish I had something bigger than a #3 TCU for the first pitch. A #3 Camalot would have been nice between the last bolt getting up to the P1 anchors. A few loose holds still on P1. Best option for rappelling is to rap from the top of P2 to the anchors on the bolted face to the left of the Bihedral; makes for a clean pull and plenty of rope to get down. Great position and solid movement above your gear. Slabby arete moves on P2 are tricky, but all there and well protected.
Jul 21, 2003
Two ways to start this route, both pretty simple. Yard directly up from below the front face to a clip 20' up or so. Or start on the shallow inside corner, climbing up about 15' and steping over the arete to the clip. I did it from the front, my partner lead and started from the inside corner. First pitch felt (7+)ish to me with good exposure, maybe one (8) move half way up moving off the arete. Nice pitch of interesting climbing if you stay close to the arete. IMO climbing in the middle or right side looked much easier and degrades the quality. On P2 climb 20' of (6)ish to a roomy corner ledge, and the fun starts from here. Ascend off the arete onto the face using the inside of the arete, small crimpers, and a thin seam for three clips of excellent face climbing. IMHO this felt hard 9 to me. The crux on its neighbor, Rhodian Shores, felt harder. But I enjoyed it, and its three stars in my book.
Jun 15, 2003
Climbed this on 6/8/03 and really enjoyed it. Pulled of a bit of loose rock at start, but overall it was clean and well protected with great position. Had the whole rock to ourselves. I've climbed in Boulder Canyon for almost 20 years, and I have to say that this is definitely one of the best lines of this grade in the canyon. Kudos to the 1st ascentionists.
Jun 11, 2003
Nice route. Surprising that this line didn't go up when the area was first being developed. With a little more traffic (read: cleaning) this will surely be a sought after climb. Great position and views.
Jun 3, 2003
Good route. Note, you won't get from the P1 anchor to the ground with 50m rope. P1 is about 130 ft. P2 is short but slightly harder, 60 ft? A blue or green Alien might be useful between bolts 3 & 4 (tho' could be 2 & 3) on P2. New fangled hangers on many of the bolts. Nice but agree with T. Bubb, not an instant classic. Again, agree with T. Bubb, but my partner, Brian, thought it was 5.9.
May 22, 2003
The route was pretty good. I don't know that it was an instant classic, but it was worthy for sure. It was mostly 5.6 to 5.7 climbing with short sections of harder climbing, all of which were well protected. Two moves were 5.9 or harder. Jenny thought it was easy for 5.9 (suggested 5.9-) and she's a 5.10 climber, so this should be in her range of good sensitivity.There is still a few gritty holds near the base that turned loose some crystals when I shifted my feet on them, but these will clean up with time. I think it was best done by doing it as a single pitch (11 slings on bolts, +2 nuts with slings). It seems like you can rap off of it with a 50m by rapping to the first belay, then rapping to the top of the slabby face route left of the Bihedral (Rhodian Shores) then to the ground. The first belay anchor is placed ideally on its own merit, but its presence was preceded by the route "Crack variation" of the bihedral, a route that is admittedly not very good and almost never climbed. Still, it makes me wonder if placing the belay slightly elsewhere would have been more preserving of the lines previously there. More something to think about than it is a complaint.
May 19, 2003
What a good route***
Oct 23, 2002
Superb. Luckily the approach is complex, which might keep the riffraff away. The route climbs nicely with Ron's suggested three cams (#2 Camalot, red and yellow Aliens), but bear in mind that finger sized wires will go in all over the place, and there are even some nice spikes to sling for you purists. Go do this route! No, stay away!
Aug 6, 2002
This is an aesthetic and fun route with great position. Bring a 60-meter rope; the rappel from the top of the first pitch is almost 100 feet long. I used a red and yellow Alien and a #2 Camalot for pro on both pitches; next time I'll leave all my other pro behind. Bring two or three runners that you can extend for some of the gear placements. There are seven bolts on the first pitch and four bolts on the second pitch. Both pitches had delicate face move cruxes that felt about 9+ or 10a. I thought the climbing was a bit easier than on Gish, a new 10a route on Bell Buttress/Aquarium Wall.
Aug 3, 2002
- Blood Diamond
This route is awesome! The lower part is a great slab, fun, tricky, super cool. BETA ALERT: The roof is only about 8 feet of climbing but requires some smart and tenuous/balancy moves to a stem, a bad foot, and a tough crimp. Then spring for a big move left to a slopey jug...big, blind deadpoint. Then re-establish your feet and reach up for a good jug, high step, and off you go. Then a long runout to the top.
Apr 21, 2014
Can TR after doing Diamonds and Rust.
May 26, 2013
Hard to rate this route. Hard at the top of the dihedral, but otherwise not 5.11. Surprisingly good slab climbing at the bottom.
Oct 7, 2009
This felt a little soft for 11d, which is the rating from the book. Also, it seems like it doesn't get climbed that often, as there is a bit of lichen in the crux.
Oct 4, 2009
- Case of the Fags
In the old days, it meant a pack of cigarettes.
Jun 26, 2012
I had always thought it was an old British term that meant "to be tired".
Jun 25, 2012
Thanks, but that is exactly what I mean, dude.... I'm all for being 'politically uncorrect', but I think saying 'case of the fags', as in disease or something, goes a little beyond that into clearly being offensive. Maybe I'm overreacting a bit, but I've read plenty of guidebooks and out there climb names I'm just tired of people dismissing stuff like this as being 'no big deal.' If something makes you feel like shit, well then it is kinda a big deal. And yah, I'm not in Boulder anymore, I'm actually living in Northern Sweden now, a stone's throw from Yosemite-quality granite on the sea and bigwalls galore in Northern Norway, with hardly anyone there. So, life's not so bad. Though my comment wasn't so much directed at 'Boulder' as much as a certain attitude I suppose exists everywhere I just felt I was seeing a little much of. Anyways no hard feelings and thanks for checking out my blog!
Jun 25, 2012
George, I thought it was a worthy crack to be documented. Perhaps "Acid Crack" should be added to the list. Phil, did you leave Boulder yet? Your blog is cool. I really enjoyed reading about all the cool things you do. I can see why one can take a look at this route name and be offended; however, I've never known climbing to be politically correct. Words aren't always as they seem. Page through a couple more guidebooks. Also, for someone so offended, you are really quick to throw the "n word" out there. Smoke more fags and get strong. Have fun. Boulder won't miss you.
Jun 9, 2012
"Case of the Fags"? Really? Man, I am so ready to get the F out of Boulder... would you have named this 'Case of the niggers?' . but hey, looks like a decent climb! [If I was strong enough to climb 11d on gear, hah.]
May 3, 2012
On May 16, 1975, I led Patti Smith (not THAT rock star) up the right-hand crack. I thought it was about 5.9. If I were to name it, I would have called it "Acid Crack," in keeping with the theme of the route we did later that day (which we thought was Acid Rock, but instead was on the right side of this face and to the LEFT of the Bihedral route). Until now, I've never seen mention of this crack in any guidebook or database.
May 2, 2012
I'd leave it bolt-less. The hard climbing is the thin stuff anyway and has 3-4 good placements between a rough fall and the crux. Nice work doing that, I thought it was quite hard.
Oct 29, 2010
Tony B! That's great you climbed that thing. I think you are the only other person that has climbed it. I know it's a little sharp, but you might have been having a case of the fags that day. So, I think you might want to re-think that second star. Just kidding. I was thinking of putting an anchor in and maybe a bolt in that wide section which if I remember correctly was easy climbing but unprotectable. I really didn't think anyone else would climb it, so I left it alone. Oh and thanks for upgrading my route, that made my night.
Oct 26, 2010
The grade on this one is pretty safe from any downgrading. As well, if you expect to have anythign resembling fun on this, tape up your fingers because this one is a sharp "eater" of a crack with rough uneven edges. Had I had tape at the beginning instead of blood knuckles at the end, I might have given this an additional star.
Jun 16, 2010
We were not sure whether these two cracks have been done. We talked to Dan Hare and he acknowledged climbing the right crack, but didn't know of anyone getting on the left crack. After attempting it and cleaning off loose rock in and around the crack, along with the difficult sequency moves, it had the signs of an unclimbed route. The crack on the right contains some sweet, wide groveling to hands.
Nov 11, 2007
- Crack Variation
- Dan's Line
Someone snagged my two draws from the anchor. If you happen to see this, please contact me!
Jul 31, 2017
I led this route this afternoon (4/25/2016). Hardware all seemed fine with no issues. 60m rope was just barely long enough to lower the climber (or rap off). Fun climb.
Apr 25, 2016
Dale Haas and I went up on this route today to replace the broken Mussy Hooks. It turns out that only one of the original hooks had a broken gate. We replaced that hook. Thanks to Ron Olsen for supplying the replacement hook.
Jun 23, 2015
Can't remember which route I saw this at, but I think it was this one. One of the anchors has a gate that is completely broken.
Dec 23, 2014
60 m rope just makes it from the anchors. Tie a knot in the end of the rope. Prod.
Oct 2, 2011
Fun route that's more sustained than Group Therapy. Very well-bolted!
Sep 5, 2010
Nice rock and reasonably sustained. We climbed the two neighboring routes and thought this one was the best.
Mar 22, 2009
5.8? I don't think so. My friend followed this in sandals. I know that doesn't say much, but this was weak even for BoCan 5.8s. The Owl, Cozyhang, Cussin' Crack, etc are all more difficult imo.
Feb 3, 2009
Be careful of the large flakes at the overlap. They are fractured and hollow sounding when you tap on them.
Oct 2, 2007
Excellent route that felt like a true 5.8. Rarely do I lead a climb without first following someone else up the route. I know, I am a sissy. Anyhow, I led this one without any previous awareness. It was a blast. It held my attention but never scared me. Great route. I highly recommend it.
Jul 15, 2007
- Daydreaming
- Diamonds and Rust
Fun route! I didn't give it that much in terms of stars, but it has interesting climbing really - plenty of holds, but along with awkward angles and slab commitment required.
Jan 19, 2013
Great route! We noticed three or four freshly bolted routes on the back of the spire-like outcropping to the left of Diamonds and Rust... do we have to wait for Bob's book (come onnnnn Aug 4!) to learn about these, too?
Jul 19, 2009
Fun route, most of it is easier than 5.9. Use caution when lowering, as it is a bit of a diagonal line, and you can swing all the way over the Heterohedral. There is a new route right of this line which goes over the Heterohedral roof.
Mar 22, 2009
- Dihedral Variation
Fun, with weird moves, not straight forword, my friends are sold at 5.9+, they could not do it, seams more like 5.10 to me, harder the the regular route,
Oct 21, 2010
- Edge of Reality
Dale Haas and I replaced the cold shut as one of the anchors with a Fixe ring hanger. This now makes two Fixe ring hangers at the anchor. Thanks to Ron Olsen for providing the hardware.
Jul 20, 2016
Fun puzzles on interesting features. The bolts were comfortable for me, so thanks to whomever did it.
Oct 26, 2006
- Fat Tuesday
I'm 5'6", fat fingers and did find some good beta for keeping it 10+!
Mar 6, 2016
Difficulty will vary greatly with height and finger size. A short person with fat fingers will not like this.
Mar 31, 2010
FA: Bob D, Greg Hand, Dan Brockway. Done on Marti Gras 2009.
Oct 5, 2009
- Flags of Our Fathers
The description for the third pitch reads: "When doing the 3rd pitch, you should belay at the 2nd belay of the Bihedral Arete." Shouldn't this actually read: "When doing the 3rd pitch, you should belay at the top of the first pitch of the Bihedral Arete." The term "2nd belay" is a bit confusing. Does that mean the belay for the start of the 2nd pitch (in this case probably, yes), but it might also mean at the end of the 2nd pitch (which in this case would be incorrect).
Jul 22, 2016
I should have paid closer attention to the route description.... Got up it with no gear, and it's doable that way, not that I can recommend anyone do it though. Just make sure and keep your wits about you, because a fall before clipping the first bolt or while below the second bolt could be quite bad without any gear in the crack. It's not super difficult, but it does get a bit thin.
Jan 20, 2014
Climbed today and only placed gear on the first pitch. Gear could be placed starting the third pitch, but it is not absolutely necessary.
Feb 4, 2013
I had to get out today after not climbing outside for 5 weeks. I self-belayed this just beating the rain. I did it as one pitch at about 200' with a few feet to spare. The distance is not accurate, because I was using my shortened 70m which is approximately but not exactly 60m. The P1 crux took me a long time. Tried to the right, straight up, to the left. Repeat. I eventually climbed to the right of the bolts. There is one hard move on each of P2 and P3, with the P3 move right off the ledge.
Jan 5, 2008
This is a nice climb with distinct and varied cruxes on each of the three pitches.
Apr 30, 2007
Great way to end Bihedral Arete if you didn't bring pro!
Apr 16, 2007
Got to lead the third pitch two days after it was put up. Thought it was a real nice pitch and certainly more than well worth doing. Echo Ron's words of good job to Greg and Kent. Have to admit though to wimping out a bit at the start and heading left for a bit. Somehow casting off into the unknown thin crack only protected by a small wire nut with the fall consequence being onto the anchor, it didn't seem like a good idea at the time, but next time!
Mar 19, 2007
- Flesh Eating Flies
The single star I give this route is for movement and for what this roue might be if it cleans up. Frankly, I had a no-star experience on it. The movement on a good route should be the product of limited holds, not forced by the fear that other existing holds will shed out from under you. Furthermore, the 'excitement' of a route should be more about the ability to do the moves, not the gambling aspect of each move, wondering if, or not, the holds you did settle on will crumble or not. My experience on the routes was first standing at the bottom watching my partner closely as the grit and grains come down from the route on each move, then climbing it, brushing each hold as I went, producing the same. The grainy rock from each foot hold stuck under foot as I stepped off of the holds, putting more grit under foot one the next hold prior to that hold even shedding. We cleaned this route to some degree, using our hands. Perhaps a concerted effort with a solid brush would clean this up much more, and perhaps all that is under that grit is more grit, and unless it sees regular traffic, it will never really be clean. Meanwhile, if I could give something 1/2 star, I'd have chosen that option. It does have potential, but for my ascent, it felt like a bomb.
Aug 29, 2016
- Group Therapy
Climbed this line this afternoon. Fun moves, no surprises. All hardwear seemed fine. 5.8- seems right, though I tend to the sandbagger side of things....
Apr 25, 2016
I didn't notice any loose rocks along the way. Everything I used in the black band seemed solid enough. This climb would be a good first lead for a timid climber - tons of bolts!
Nov 10, 2014
There does not appear to be loose blocks on this anymore.
Feb 4, 2013
Nice line, pretty easy for the grade. 60m rope just long enough. Tie a knot on the end of the rope. Prod.
Oct 2, 2011
A fun route that goes pretty easy until the bulge. Not as sustained at its grade than the other moderates in the area. Of course, be mindful of your rope! We used a 70m, and it was looking a little thin after both ends were on the ground....
Sep 5, 2010
There is ANOTHER easy way to avoid rappelling-off-the-end-of-your-damn-rope accidents. Pay. Attention. Use your head and you don't need to use knots.
Apr 3, 2010
Easiest way to avoid this, always tie into/tie a knot in the end of your rope!
Nov 10, 2009
"Nobody is nearly dead." Hey, cool route name!!
Aug 20, 2009
Karl, Who told you it was a 60m rope? Did you verify that? Who told you that someone nearly died? Nobody is nearly dead. Yes, one needs to be attendant to rope length, but let's not sensationalize things.
Aug 20, 2009
!!!!!!!!!There was a serious accident here on 8/19/09 because 60 m rope was not long enough and end went through belay device lowering the leader. Climber fell about 40 ft below belay and nearly died. Please use caution and tell others to belay from ridge directly below 1st bolt or be prepared to lower to ridge and scramble down. A knot in the end of the rope is an easy way to save a life.
Aug 20, 2009
Note: lowering a second climber on 60m rope back to the start of the route will be very close to the end at the finish...actual footage of rope's stated lengths do vary!
Jul 5, 2009
A nice moderate with maybe one 5.8 move near the top.
May 12, 2009
Crux was near the top, I thought.
Mar 22, 2009
- Hesitantly Decisive
The name is Hesitantly Decisive. FA: Richard Rossiter
Aug 22, 2016
- Heterohedral
The first pitch is really fun but not very challenging. The second pitch had a bunch of lichen on it, was a bit more difficult, but was half the fun.
Aug 30, 2013
Not a bad route, but a little lichen at the botton and a little choss at the top. As well, it stays wet after a rain for quite some time, as the crack/overlap leaks water. Can be done in 1 long pitch with a 70m and probably with a 60m at well. I'd take an extra #3 Camalot (3.5" piece) to avoid much swing potential or walking gear too much, and a lot of longer slings and do it in just 1 pitch.
Jun 20, 2005
- High Hard One
This is a good route if you want to see what 9(+) slab is like. Bolts at the top are placed at a very safe (i.e. close) distance. Nice movement: arm-stemmy-down-pressury-body-tensiony-tiny-dish-smeary. Fun! (and I don't consider myself a 9 leader). "Nice job and thanks!" to whoever equipped this route.
Aug 8, 2009
- Hold The Line
Chockstone still there and feels solid. He's a tough one.
Jul 25, 2017
Chockstone still there--I used it.
Mar 3, 2017
The chockstone at the crux is still there, and it doesn't feel loose at all. It might go one day, but it doesn't at all appear imminent. Fun route, nice and slabby in spots.
Jan 20, 2014
Just climbed this route today. This is the 5th sport climb I have ever done outside of the climbing gym, and I must say rating scales are definitely different. This was a very fun climb, and at the crux, which I would say is at the 5th-6th bolt, I believe, it took a bit of tuning out the what ifs, and fully commit, found 2 decent holds on the crux, one which looks like a loose piece of rock but is actually a good hold (for now) and was able to clip in while grabbing a small pinch to the left once you get up on the crux. All in all, it is a good route, a bit slabby, some lay back, and a bit reachy at the crux. Easy as pie after the crux, 2 more bolts and then the anchor bolts. Go for it, commit, and you'll send it!
Jun 7, 2013
Great route for the beginner sport climber. More thought provoking than the other moderates in this area, with an interesting crux, for the grade. As for the comments on loose rock - I climbed this yesterday and found a medium sized chockstone in the corner after the crux that looked about ready to go. Considering it's the first good hand after the crux, I'd imagine it's getting pulled on a bunch....
Sep 5, 2010
If you avoid the corner entirely at the crux and just go directly up the face alone, the line is slightly more interesting and challenging, and is probably 5.9 that way, otherwise probably 5.8.
Jun 4, 2010
The general line has been toproped by me and undoubtedly others using the Rhodian Shores anchors and/or Bihedral Arete rap anchor. I believe I did the lower half (on TR) further right using the more difficult left angling seam. As bolted, I kept trying not to use the crack on the left feeling that using that was cheating, but without it the lower half would be more difficult than the rating.
Jan 13, 2008
Felt like a 5.7 route. Contrived. Would have enjoyed gear where the cracks were on the overlaps, therefore, felt like a sport route for the sake of being a sport route. Yawn.
Nov 17, 2007
Great route! Above the wedged chockstone I pulled on a jug only to be shocked by finding my stomach jumping out of my mouth. I yelled rock and the 20-35 lb block landed 15ft from my belayer! Man, we were lucky. Just thought I'd let everyone know there is more potentially loose rock up there, surprising because the rock looks and most of it is great. Wear your brain bucket!
Sep 4, 2007
Good moves with some nice variation. Well bolted, don't bother bringing gear.
Apr 26, 2007
I found this to be fun and interesting climb. A few moves over which to ponder including an interesting, somewhat mildly runout crux (which can be protected with a smaller cam if you so choose though I didn't find it necessary). Good climb with a nice length!
Mar 19, 2007
Nice and long (by BC standards) pitch with solid climbing the entire way up.
Mar 18, 2007
This is a fun addition to the set of moderate routes on the Bihedral. Well-bolted. I didn't feel the need for placing a piece of gear at the crack and instead used the crack for a layback. Fun route and a good warm-up for the area.
Mar 17, 2007
- It's Time For Change
Didn't read the comments before and pulled out the chalked up rock mentioned in the previous comment. Might be 5.8+ now!
Aug 11, 2017
I climbed this today, and there's a loose stone wedged in a V-crack about 2/3 of the way up the route (pretty much right at the crux). It has tons of chalk on it, but it wiggles once you pull on it a bit. I had to swing around the left side of the route to make it up safely. Just be careful pulling on that wiggly, chalky jug. Maybe someone should remove it? It's fairly small but could cause some damage to a belayer below, particularly one without a helmet if it breaks off. Swinging around the left side doesn't change the grade and is still a fun way to get to the top.
Jun 4, 2017
Climbed this today after the block had been removed. No change in the grade of the route. No need to bring any trad gear for this route.
Jun 7, 2016
The discussion surrounding the loose block on this route can be found here: mountainproject.com/v/bocan…
Jun 5, 2016
Death block on the arete is gone.
Jun 5, 2016
The death rock near bolt 7 is ready to go and is extremely loose. This route is not worth climbing, I highly recommend avoiding it until the rock (that others have also mentioned above) falls. If it fell and hit someone, it could easily kill them. It's also possible that it could go all the way to the road.
Jan 18, 2016
Do not climb! Read Tom and Tony above. I quit the climb at the crux, because I heard the rock moving on a hand jam just before you climb left to the arete. I abandoned the climb and made it home safely. Stay off until it falls. The loose piece was even with the chains (and 15 feet left) of the route right Night Moves.
Nov 17, 2015
I led this route on Sat. Oct. 31st with only quickdraws. It this is a 5.8, every other 5.8 in the upper tier needs to be downgraded to a 5.7. I've led them all, and the difficulty is no comparison to this route. I did not encounter any loose rock at the crux or on the arete others have spoken off. I really enjoyed this climb and will climb it again soon bringing some cams next time and specifically looking for loose rock. I rate this a 5.9 grade. It's a 5.8+ in the BC guidebook.
Nov 5, 2015
I found this route a lot of fun. Very varied compared to all the other slab routes nearby. A little spicey with bad landing if you don't use any cams. That big loose block by the 7th clip is still there. It made a grinding sound when I unknowingly pulled on it.
Apr 17, 2014
Seems like all of the loose blocks are still there. The 15x12-inch block wedged like a chockstone may actually help keep the much bigger one on its right from collapsing to the left. Maybe better to leave it. Just above, the next-to-last (7th?) bolt is placed in a big block that vibrated when I pounded on it with my hand. Alpine training or Russian roulette?
May 4, 2012
I'm down for the trundling expedition for the loose block.
Sep 21, 2011
The loose block is a detractor. That thing is more than big enough to kill a belayer or several people on the lower left crag. It would pinball down the corner right to the belayer too- so death is not some remote possibility, it is real. This should be cleaned in a controlled fasion with a verified CLEAR lower tier. Otherwise, the route is long and varied, and so not bad.
Jun 16, 2010
I also agree with the previous post's about the large rock right below bolt #7 at the crux. It was very loose when I arrived at the crux and I stopped the climb because of it. It needs to be cleared off safely by strapping it and lowering it down. Being that it is right at the crux, I would not climb this route till it is taken care of properly.
Aug 25, 2009
Good fun route with some nice exposure. There is definitely some loose rock. I nearly pulled off a chicken head while climbing it near the second bolt. Looks like people use that hold a lot, and it's bound to go sometime. Some of the boulders on the arete also looks suspect. They are bomber now, but may loosen up after time.
May 20, 2009
Fun route, but there is some very suspect rock making up the arete. Hope it does not "Change" any time soon.
May 12, 2009
Beware some loose rock in the crack near the crux block towards the top. It shouldn't be a problem, just be mindful of what you pull on (as you should always...). Bolts are where you need 'em, but there is a section of fairly runout easy climbing. No problem; bring some gear if it makes you feel better, or just keep your wits about you as you make easy moves to the next bolt.
May 9, 2009
Fun route with some wild moves! Let's hope the crux block doesn't feel it's time for change. There are several loose appearing blocks near the crux but upon closer inspection they seem solidly wedged.
Mar 22, 2009
Really fun route and great place to climb sport. Nice to see you on the climb, Ron. Thanks again for all your work here.
Feb 7, 2009
Nice addition guys. I was wondering if someone else would have put up a commemorative route on such an auspicious day. My own commemorating was a new crag, Inaugural Crag, and a new route installed, prepped, and ready to go, but not yet red pointed (Ascendancy). The change has begun.
Jan 26, 2009
- Just Putin Around
This route lies above the right side of the Riviera. Any rock knocked off could crash down onto climbers and spectators, kids and dogs, who are oblivious to what lies above. Better avoid it on weekends and warm weekdays.
Mar 11, 2014
- Left-Handed Tool
I think climbing the crack at the bottom is the best way to do the route. The bolts will work, but climbing the crack keeps the rope in a straight line and the bottom crack is not too hard. I think I placed a #1 Camalot and a #0.5 Camalot.
Mar 29, 2013
- Night Moves
Don't bring gear, as this one is short and sweet. There's more than enough pro on the route, and all the moves are well-protected. My wife described this route as "cute". Definitely check out "It's Time for Change" if you're over here. That route is worth the traverse, though this one may not be by itself.
Jun 4, 2017
Led this today - I'm into protection and placing gear for practice, but I thought there were plenty of bolts. If I had stopped to place gear, I would just be wearing myself out. Climb smart and purposefully....
Jan 19, 2013
You can clip a bolt right at the mantle move before you commit, so I don't think gear is necessary either.
Dec 17, 2012
Honestly I'm not sure why this is listed as a mixed route. Placing gear here for any purpose other than practice seems a bit excessive. There is a bolt on top of the ledge halfway up that can be reached before pulling up on top of the ledge if you feel you need more protection. I carried gear up it and never felt it was necessary to place it.
Oct 15, 2012
What is the variation of this route which splits to the right after the 3rd or 4th bolt and finishes between this one and the Diamonds and Rust at a bolted anchor?
Jun 16, 2010
The mantle move is kind of tricky. The yellow Alien is nice here for peace of mind.
Mar 24, 2009
- Oh Boy
The top edge above the anchor isn't very positive to pull through the crux, but after getting up there, I saw a nice hold a bit to the right to pull up on and stand to clip the anchor (if you don't wish to grab the chains beforehand).
May 26, 2013
FA should be Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand.
Dec 17, 2012
This is a fun little climb. We placed a #1 Camalot but nothing bigger.
Dec 17, 2012
- Pariah
- Puff Daddy
You don't need a cam for this route, the runout before the first bolt is super easy...like 5.4 or less. This is a fun route that's very well-protected and the hard moves aren't until the end. It would be hard to find a more perfect route for someone's first 5.10 lead.
Apr 15, 2016
A pretty good climb with some unique and fun moves near the top. Most of the "new" climbing in this area I've found unremarkable, but I enjoyed this route. When done from the ground up as a single 55m pitch with Hold the Line, this is a 3-Star climb. But don't fall from the crux with so much rope out, or you'd take a long ride.
Jun 8, 2010
This felt significantly easier than P1 of Flags of Our Father. The top, although steep, had obvious climbing with mostly very positive hand holds, although some are small.
Jan 13, 2008
This is a fun line, although a little over bolted at the top. I would recommended linking this pitch with the 5.9 or 5.10 below for a full value 185ft lead.
Jan 4, 2008
Great route, Ron!
Sep 4, 2007
Nice addition to the area. 5.8 climbing from the start until the last 20 feet, when it steepens and the holds get much smaller. Lichen is mostly removed where you don't want it. The upper section very well protected, the lower section is bordering on excessive.
Apr 26, 2007
Puff Daddy was a great climb. Started by leading Dan's Line, used the higher anchor, then continued up Puff Daddy. Well-placed bolts and didn't feel any need for additional pro. Thanks Ron and Mike for your work on this. It was clean enough to enjoy. Rappeled down to the anchor for Hold the Line (using a 60m rope) which seemed the smoothest and fastest way down.
Apr 2, 2007
- Rhodian Shores
In regard to the Rossiter 9 rating, perhaps a run on his 2nd pitch of Climb of the Ancient Mariner, 5.9, on the Bookend or P5 of Birds of Fire, 5.9, might serve as a good grounding for slabbier granite (not my forte).
Apr 28, 2015
As far as the rating goes, if you wander left and right a lot it may go at 5.9. If you hug the bolt line, it's probably 5.10b.
Oct 12, 2011
Fun climb. Well protected. Somewhere between a 9 and a 10. It's a sport climb?
Oct 2, 2011
Foot-intensive, interesting climbing. Some of the bolts aren't in the best spots, but they'll get you where you want to go.
Nov 20, 2007
I believe Rossiter's rating was taken from feedback from my partner and me. Our 5.9 rating was relative to traditional 5.9 climbs in BC; we weren't familiar with the new rating system back then. Good alternative first pitch to the bihedral. I did Over the Hill (real 10b) a few weeks after this route--OTH felt MUCH harder. So 5.9 is probably accurate.
May 8, 2006
This was a great route with moves all the way to the top! Does anyone know a way to get dogs up to the Bihedral area without making your dog do a "5.12-R-dog-move"? Aspen had a harder time climbing up there then we did!
Oct 13, 2005
The crux for me was getting up to and past the third bolt. I also ended up stepping a bit up and to the right to make the third clip, but, as mentioned above, doing so makes for a difficult traverse back. Very solid and continuous climbing. I remember only eight bolts to the anchors.
Aug 13, 2003
Definitely the crux is the 4th clip, involving a thin finger tip seam about eye level and a sequence of delicate foot placements out left, working up and left to a nice ledge and much better stances. Have the draw in your mouth ready to clip. Two very small openings in the seam favor skinny finger tips. Felt (10) to me. The upper half is also interesting with an undercling and a flake with more positive holds. Fun stuff. 3 Stars.
Jun 15, 2003
If it matters, the crux seemed to be between bolt 2&3 per 5 folks with whom I've climbed this. High step L or R foot works. Maybe L foot is better?
May 22, 2003
I would rate this a 10a as well. 3rd and 4th bolts are the crux. Great slab climb!
May 13, 2003
This route is certainly 5.10. 10b sounds about right; a good comparable is Le Nouveau Riche, next door at the Riviera.
Aug 6, 2002
Good line on great rock. I agree on the 10a rating. We linked this with the 2nd pitch of the Bihedral route--very nice. A few things: I would suggest climbing past the anchors (about another 15-20ft) to the base of the the 2nd pitch to set your belay--much more comfortable and easier to manage your rope. Second thing-leave the nuts and Aliens on the ground; the second pitch is all about .75"-4" cams. If you don't have a 3.5" or a 4" cam, you're in for a dicey runout. Last thing-there are good slings on a tree at the top that you can rap off. Really fun combination--it might just have been good timing, but despite the crowds on the Riviera below, nobody was up there.
Jul 1, 2002
I'd say 10a around the third bolt. I stepped right thinking the vertical seams might provide some solace but made for a tricky return back left. The rest felt 5.9. A great climb!
May 13, 2002
This was a great route, albeit harder than the 5.9 rating it was given by Rossiter. I'd agree with 10a. Requires very good footwork and slab climbing techniques. One of the better sport routes I've done in the canyon.
Feb 1, 2002
I also thought this route 5.10- in one section (3rd bolt or so?). I enjoyed the route as well as the Bihedral, I would not say the Bihedral is much worse. It is just trad climbing vs. sport.
Aug 2, 2001
I thought it was a great route - at least, much better than Bihedral to the right of it, which seemed like a sandbag on both pitches with poor gear on the second pitch. It felt maybe a bit harder than 9 on a couple of moves, but the rating is probably accurate for a slab.
Jan 1, 2001
- Rhodian, Naturally
- Sands of Iwo Jima
My friend Maciej onsighted this thing, but he was a solid 5.12c climber at the time. I think 11d for sure.
Nov 11, 2013
11d felt appropriate. Tough to onsight (didn't) but with beta not so bad.
Nov 22, 2012
Yes, quite harder than it looks! Wasn't sure whether to layback or just krank upward. Couldn't onsight it. Felt like a 12 compared to other 11d's I tried.
Sep 28, 2011
For what it's worth, I don't consider myself a 5.12 climber for on-sight because it's not a rule of thumb for me. More like 11+... on a good day. After surveying friends about this one lately, and hearing of friend's and friend's of friends attempts, I came up with one "nearly." Mark Gay beta-flashed it after watching Jon Sargeant on it (who also did not on-sight). I think 11d is fair, but it's just going to be a booger to on-sight. If pre inspected or "sprayed" down fully before giving it a go, it would not be so bad. That's why I personally gave it 11d. It's all there, but it is a booger to read right out of the gate. If you give it 5.12, then what's going to happen is people will do a few laps, read point and downgrade it. Perhaps you can safely rate this thing when we can get all climbers to agree if grades are redpoint or on-sight oriented?!?!?
Jun 10, 2010
I think 11+ is fair - it's just a tricky, technical one. And as we all know, 11+ is usually harder than most 5.12a's anyway....
Jun 10, 2010
So, if all these 5.12 climbers are failing to on-sight it, should the rating be raised?? I guess Bob & I originally rated it 5.11c/d, and everyone else has rated it higher. If we had rated it 5.12, would everyone concur?
Jun 9, 2010
I onsighted it on my second try after hanging the first time!
Jun 9, 2010
This route is a whole lot of good for 35 feet of climbing! It's all there, but it's got to be hard to onsight.... I popped off of a heel hook while clipping bolt #4 and fell almost to the belay. It was/is a pretty safe, clean fall from anywhere on the route once the first bolt is clipped, even with slack pulled. Nice work on finding an improbable line that adds value to the wall. I chatted with Greg about this one briefly. Which lead both of us to wonder.... Has ANYONE onsighted this thing yet?
Jun 9, 2010
Very interesting movement. It's tougher than it looks...especially when it's raining.
Oct 29, 2009
Very nice even if it is also very short. I agree, not an easy one to onsight although there is no very hard move.
Oct 6, 2009
Beautiful! Exposed! Sequential. Hard. Wish it was twice as long. Do it!
May 15, 2008
Great route. The setting is awesome to start from the top of Bihedral Arete. Tough liebacking moves and hidden holds make it tough to onsight. Sweet route well worth doing. CL
Mar 1, 2008
Four star climbing, but 50' is a very generous estimate of its length. Crux is at the 3rd bolt, though there is not a single gimme move; its continuousness reminded me of High Test at Sport Park. The grade seemed tough for an onsight, but not too bad for a redpoint.
Oct 13, 2007
- Sun Spot
I led this the other day with nothing larger than a #2, and it seemed quite comfortable that way. A couple big cams would make placing gear a bit more straightforward, but I wouldn't say they are required. I also stuck a pink tri-cam in about halfway.
Jan 20, 2014
The #4 goes about four feet above the 1st bolt. I did not place a #3, but you certainly could. For my other gear, my biggest piece was a #1.
Nov 27, 2013
I gave this 3 stars as I think it is a good early 5.7 trad lead. Takes great gear, interesting positions. Good intro lead if you can follow 5.8ish. Prod.
Mar 26, 2012
Really enjoyed this climb. I felt like this was a pretty solid 5.7. It had a couple of pretty committing moves and the gear was a little weird. I only clipped the one bolt in the middle, but my partner clipped another one at the top when he led it. I actually didn't use a #3 or a #4 at all even though I brought two 3s and a 4 with me on the climb.
Dec 25, 2010
- Thumb Tack
Of course...another line that Dan freed. This is SUCH a good line. Damn. Is it ok to say damn on here? Damn, that was awesome. If you're thinking about going for it or not, do it.
May 26, 2009
Hard tips crack route that is more overhung than it looks. Powerful moves off of and to fingerlock pods through interesting ground. Used a full rack of Aliens and C3s. Some small nuts are good too. Place small gear up hig before pulling out of the box and go for it! Best route I've climbed in this area.
Mar 1, 2008
- Tool King
This is a great warm up climb prior to doing the harder climbs in the area. A few nuts and small cams are all you need for gear.
Dec 17, 2012
- Trick or Treat
Fun little climb if you've already ticked off the other .8s in the area. For the most part very easy, with the crux being the short pull over the steep section. And yes, the crack is simple, but if you were to blow it near the top with no gear, you it's possible you may smack into the slab a ways below and to the right.
Jan 24, 2014
This is a very fun route for beginners and is a great warm up! The location, high up the canyon wall, makes it a great place to take people new to Colorado! They always love it!
May 11, 2012
Another fun moderate for this area. I agree with the above comments - there's really only a few 5.8 parts. I placed two cams in the crack for peace of mind, but the climbing was very easy at that point. Still, thought it was a fun route and a good introduction to placing gear on lead, given the difficulty at the placements and the bolts before and after.
Sep 5, 2010
Why do these routes even exist? This is what the gym is for.
Jun 5, 2010
The crack is probably 5.4, so no gear is really needed unless you feel the need to sew it up.
Jun 4, 2010
The crux feels more like a gym route. Other than that section, it's easier than 5.8. The crack section is very easy.
Mar 22, 2009
- Where's Ray?
JellieBean (did you change your name?), Where's Ray ends at the same first anchor as Flags of Our Fathers. Then, Flags.. goes up 2 more pitches to a new anchor which is also for the Bihedral Arete. These routes were done Fall 2006. Above that anchor is the short and difficult Sands of Iwo Jima.
May 19, 2008
Did I miss something in the guide info? What is above the anchors on this route? They still look shinny and pretty. Is it new?
May 19, 2008
- Castaway Block
- Castaway
The problems on this boulder range from V0 to V1-2 depending on eliminates. A nice traverse has also been done.
Nov 10, 2009
- Left Side, The
- Calling All Trad Climbers
Me and my partner both think the first crux is harder than the second one.
Mar 29, 2013
Definitely one of my favorite routes on the wall. Great gear and good moves...plus as mentioned above you can also keep climbing up through the overhanging roof above and end up on What's Wrong With Parents anchors. Makes for a more direct and exciting finish. Maybe 5.9 through the roof?
Mar 12, 2012
Repeated this route at the end of the day today. Posting again to draw attention to this little known sub-area of Bihedral. These routes are fun, get lots of sun, and, a rarity these days, are minimally bolted. I like it. This time, the second crux of Calling all Trad-Climbers felt pretty easy, although definitely intimidating. One layback move onto a high step to reach the jug.
Apr 3, 2005
This is a fun route with THREE strenuous cruxes, if you climb the final roof at the obvious crack. It's about the same difficulty as the other cruxes and is easier than it looks. I thought the lower cruxes were harder than they looked. You'll want a #3/blue Camalot for the roof and a few more medium cams to back it up and to protect the second above the roof. Above the roof, angle right to the anchors for What's Wrong With Parents. You may be able to lower from those bolts, but I had too much rope drag to lower. This climb felt way harder than Don't Ask (just to the left) and Bihdedral Arete. If those are 10a, I'd call this 10b. I thought this was the best of the three adjacent climbs, Don't Ask, Calling All Trad Climbers, and What's Wrong With Parents, although we almost didn't climb it, because it looked trivial from the ground.
Jan 1, 2003
This is a fun route with two strenuous cruxes. I felt both cruxes were harder than 10a; perhaps 10b to 10c. These cruxes were harder than Bihedral Arete (10a), Gish (10a), and perhaps harder than Don't Ask (10b). My partner flashed Bihedral Arete and Don't Ask, and hung several times at both cruxes on this pitch. The first crux at the bolt involves a step left and then a hard crank past a steep headwall. There's a key handhold out left to supplement the marginal handholds directly above the headwall. The second crux is a committing overhanging finger crack. Save a yellow and green Alien for pro here. Make sure your belayer keeps all the slack out of the system or you could hit a ledge below the finger crack if you peel from the top of the crux. Power layback up the finger crack, then make a strenuous move up and right to another good crack. A stem with the left foot and a wicked abs crunch were required to make the reach. Shorter people may have to dyno this move. Continue up to a roof (I placed a #1 Camalot under the roof as a directional anchor), then angle left and up to the anchors atop Don't Ask. I belayed my partner from the top anchors instead of lowering. Pro up to a #2 Camalot.
Aug 3, 2002
- Don't Ask
If swinging from one crack system to another by a jug constituted .10a, then the given rating may be justified. As it is though, this climb is ridiculously easy for the grade listed. Having just finished Bihedral before jumping on this, I found both climbs to feel similar in difficulty. It may be harder if your shorter, but if you're 5'10" or over and can do a pull up, you're good to go! While the bottom half wasn't that great, the top half was pretty fun, and I'll give it a star for that.
Jan 24, 2014
Just wondering if the FA was done on all gear and the bolt was added later by someone else? If so, then why?
Mar 22, 2011
This climb felt very easy. After doing it (without knowing what what climb we had done), we thought it might be 5.9. There are certainly lots of trad 9s that are harder. I'm not so familiar with sport ratings, but in any case, this is way easier than Calling All Trad Climbers, which is rated 10a on this site. I like the fact that the climbs on this wall are "mixed", with bolts only where they are useful (although What's Wrong With Parents could, perhaps, be done with only one bolt at the higher crux).
Jan 1, 2003
Don't Ask...I got to ask.? What were you guys thinking?
Sep 15, 2002
This is a fun route with a wild and tricky crux at the bolt. The key for me was a small foothold for my left foot which let me crank up left to a finger crack in a small corner. I belayed from the top anchors instead of lowering. Pro up to a #2 Camalot.
Aug 3, 2002
- Gaiters
- Most of the Time
The top half of this was quite good and a little run out. The bottom was a bit decrepit. We climbed it as shown in the photo here. There are other possibilities further left. The photo in the D'Antonio guide is not clear. At the top, we moved right to the bolts above Don't Ask rather than walking off as described above.
Feb 28, 2011
- Slight of Hand
An ok route, but the bolt at the crux would be better located if it was to the right a bit. At its current location, you are looking at swinging fall into a slight offset. Probably wouldn't kill you but probably not fun either. Given the bolt location, I thought it went straight up, but the holds run out and you end up looking at a bulging, smooth mantel well above the bolt. Ended up down climbing and going to the right in a fairly pumped state, which felt kind of exciting for some reason.
Nov 13, 2010
This is called Slight of Hand. FA: Bob D & Greg Hand.
Mar 28, 2010
- Twisted
- What's Wrong with Parents Today
Anchor links were fixed today.
Feb 13, 2016
A really fun route... but maybe my perspective was skewed by the adrenaline. Went up this w/o reading the info so didn't have any gear with me. Pretty scary at one point moving past the 3rd bolt since I wasn't quite sure which way to go at first (go right, BTW). I actually didn't find any of the moves very hard, just heady when I was run-out.
Dec 21, 2009
Perhaps, the answer is that we're the kids of the parents of yesterday ;) Nice route, 3 interesting cruxes, above the 2nd bolt, you can go L or R. L works. Wires & cams to #1 Camalot worked. Interesting variety of moves. Thanks for putting in the route!
Nov 3, 2006
The roof crux is a grunt. I placed a red Alien at the lip. The higher crux, moving right, was perplexing and fun. I'd call this about 10c if it were trad. I rarely can onsight 10c trad cleanly in Eldo or Boulder Canyon, but was pretty solid on this.
Jan 1, 2003
- Lower Tier, The
- Beer Dog
This is the easiest of the three routes that share the same start. If you do all three you dial in the crux by doing it three times.
Dec 3, 2014
- Botonga
This is a really quick and easy climb. If you're new to the grade, do this climb. If you're not new to the grade, it's an okay warm-up but nothing special given the other routes in the area.
Feb 20, 2017
History of "The Unknown sport climb" on the lower tier in Boulder Canyon: Was putup Pebby Johns and myself in the Fall of 2001. There used to be a sizable rock on the lower part that formed a nice overhang but that fell off a few years back. It was originally protected there with a couple wires. I placed the rap rings to the right because we we also set it up so one could top rope the route to the right (Leave no Trace) which I think Moe Hershoff and others placed some bolts later on. We called the Unknown sport route "Botonga" and the other left unnamed at the time after toproping it and thinking it to be around 11a-11b. -Bill Morris
Jun 10, 2009
Not worth too much by itself, but had a decent move or two and is a nice extra pitch when doing Calling All Trad Climbers etc.
May 8, 2006
- Brace for Impact
- Canine Corner
Definitely easier to stay right on the arete for the last three bolts. The climbing is fun, on well (overly?) protected rock. This climb probably doesn't get done often, as the route is somewhat dirty and covered with lichen for most of the climb. Super fun for a nice February day in Boulder Canyon!
Feb 27, 2016
The top on this is interesting. Going out to the arête on the right is the easiest way, but going direct works too.
Dec 3, 2014
Ok, I'll be the first to comment. Yes, the crux of all three of these is down low after bolt 2 or so, but I did enjoy the weird moves to go right. The rock pushes you left up Beer Dog. The left hand jam and lieback finish up the final 3 bolts was fun. I think this climb is worth doing.
Oct 12, 2013
- Free at Last
80' of "blah" to 25' of very good climbing with a technical crux. I didn't do it the way it is described here, and neither did Seth, nor Jerry, and none of us did it quite the same. I also busted off a foothold... but not one anyone else used, apparently. Anyway, how do you average this one out? Maybe 2 stars?
Jul 26, 2009
Bruno, Good job. I knew it would be harder than my current state of devolution (I play golf 7 days a week). I tried to bring in my own hired gun, but never got one in time. I was there twice on rappel and it was an ordeal to clean with the updrafts. Opps, gotta go, time to hit the links!
May 2, 2007
Greg and Ron, You guys are funny about the cleaning and stuff. But I agree with Ron, cleaners should be part of the first ascent party. Cleaning is the most arduous task that a route-setter has to cope with! :) And the cleaning you had done made our job much easier on Sunday, that's for damn sure! :) You are soooo welcome Greg as part of the first ascent party! After all, you also did some of the exploration to find this line! :) Good job Greg! Team spirit at its best! Bruno
May 2, 2007
Ron, just razzin you. It was too hard for me. I am amazed it went that easy.
Apr 30, 2007
Hey, don't I get any credit for the 2 days of cleaning I did on the route??
Apr 30, 2007
- Git 'Er Done
The Bob D'Antonio guidebook calls this climb 5.10d. The 9+ rating is certainly more accurate. This is not a great climb, but I hope no one avoids it due to the guidebook rating. It shares the anchor with Quick Work.
Nov 27, 2013
- Hound's Tooth
There's some pretty freaky loose blocks just above the anchor, to the left, easily within reach for someone standing on the comfy ledge.
Aug 28, 2017
This is a good route. It is certainly the most physical near the top. The hold here is a big jug, but the feet are not very good.
Dec 3, 2014
Really surprised this is 10b.... I thought it was much easier, but maybe I'm just getting better. Still a very fun route.
Jul 2, 2012
The best of the 3 routes by some margin. The lower crux felt 5.9 but getting out of the corner is harder, maybe 10a for all folks, more for the very short.
Jul 26, 2009
This is easily the best of the three routes conjoined at the bottom here. Good crux above the second bolt, nice lieback to the small overhanging move. Do this and skip the ones to the left and right.
Nov 7, 2007
- Leave No Trace
If you clip the last bolt on Botonga, a #2 Camalot will protect the runout to it....
Apr 22, 2015
- Like a Wonk
We combined the two pitches, and it worked out well. There was not much rope drag. It saves some time.
Dec 3, 2014
I removed a loose flake (18 inch diameter) from the left variation today. It can be seen in the picture next to the climbers left foot. It left a big hold and the move at the 2nd bolt is easier now. I was actually shocked how hollow it sounded. The FA party was remiss in not cleaning it. OH WAIT! That's me! Sorry. I also put in separate anchors for the two variations. This eliminates the rope shredding problem.
Jan 13, 2010
With belly to the bolts, the left hand variation felt fairly hard (.10c?) to me; I'm 5'8" and I hung, [but avoided the crack to the left]. I was expecting easier....
Oct 2, 2009
- March Madness
Counted no less than four blocks / flakes that appear to be detached completely around and are located right where you want to pull on them. One of these is going to come off some day, and I don't want to be on / under them when they do.
Jun 13, 2017
Chains are still there as of yesterday!
Jun 8, 2015
I put chains on the anchors today. Let's see how long they last.
Jun 1, 2015
I guess so....
Apr 23, 2015
So someone stole the chains?
Apr 22, 2015
A small cam (#0.5 c4?) would be helpfull to reach the first bolt. It's a little scary without. Also, there are no rings at the anchor.
Apr 22, 2015
I thought this was the most fun of the routes I did on this wall. Every time it seemed like it would be hard, a good hold could be found. Not obvious holds, but they are there.
Dec 2, 2013
- Munchkin Roof
- Quick Work
This route is "ok" but nothing great. If it was like 100', it would be worth doing. As it is, it is something you can do if you have done everything else in the area. The guidebook says to bring a few cams, but I can't see why you would want them.
Nov 27, 2013
Both anchor bolts were loose. One to the point of almost falling off. I tightened both today. May be caused because the anchors are Fixe rings and when you rappel or lower there is a large force trying to rotate the bolts.
Sep 5, 2011
- Release the Kraken
This climb has fun moves. I thought it was slightly easier than 8+. Funny, I thought Where's Ron was true to its rating while not this one, which is the opposite of Tony 's opinion.
Dec 2, 2013
The beta photo on the "Where's Ron" page shows Kraken veering left at the roof, but Kraken climbs well going straight up and following the slightly discontinuous crack all the way up past the roof. This crack safely takes plenty of medium and small pro. This route and March Madness felt easier to us than what some others have indicated, thus Leo's "gravity takes a break" comments.
Nov 11, 2011
An intermediate climb for advanced climbers. The climb has several very large flakes that I'd be reticent to put gear behind, so I wouldn't put a new trad leader on it.
Apr 23, 2010
- Tinnitus
- Where's Ron
Fun. Be gentle with the undercling flake near the crux. It's helpful, but if someone yards on it, it's gone.
Apr 22, 2015
I did this route again today with a partner, not solo, and it seemed easier. Maybe 10a.
Feb 28, 2014
I thought this was true to its 10c rating. I agree with Tony that it is not as hard as some of the Eldo 10cs, but for Boulder Canyon, I think it is rated about right. The crux is really short, but it is a fairly difficult move.
Dec 2, 2013
Of the routes on this lower right wall of Bihedral, I enjoyed this the most despite the somewhat chossy rock. It climbed like a trad climb and felt a bit airy. We traversed left to the Tinnitus anchors rather than scrambling way up right to the Release the Kraaken anchors.
Jan 16, 2011
Some pretty good climbing in the middle but a little less great up high and down low. Also, the grade is pretty high considering. It felt 5.9 or maybe 10a. I can't give it 10c for sure, because my benchmarks are Tagger, Grandmother's Challenge, Outer Space, etc....
Apr 23, 2010
- Wonky
I didn't find the crimp to the right the first time and pinched the arete from the left side then slapped for the opposition side-pull. This is very insecure and the feet are crap- the next handholds WORSE. Probably 5.12. Looked down from the next bolt on the easier part and saw the holds to the right. Rapped and lead it again using this- more like 10d. I've been inclined to downgrade a lot of the routes here, but this one holds 10d.
Apr 28, 2010
Ron, It did seem hard, but I never know how to rate things. After clipping the big (1/2")bolt, you can reach (blindly) around the right arete for a crimp. Then get the left on a crimp. Then move the feet and reach the right hand to the top of the flake. Then match the left just below it and reach right into the corner, then right up to a good horizontal. Your body gets around the right side of the arete, but you are not that far from the bolt.
Nov 10, 2007
- Riviera, The
- Abandonment
Super runout after the 4th bolt. Don't do this without added pro unless you're leading 5.10+. The move to the anchor is awkward on the left and right, and if you fall, it's ohhh about a 40 footer onto slab. Bring small cams and nuts, there are gear placement opportunities.
Jun 26, 2016
Having led Au Natural and Abandonment recently, I think the former is a whole number grade harder than the latter.
Mar 11, 2014
Definitely bring gear for the second half of this. A set of small to medium nuts will work, but TCUs or Aliens would be easier to place. I only used one small nut but would have placed another if I could of found another slot. However, I saw a few good TCU placements in the #2-4 range. The only cam I racked was a BD #0.75, and it did not fit in anything. There is ground fall potential with about 15ft of climbing left to the anchor. The climbing is easy as mentioned on other comments, but I would of been stressing it without gear. I thought the route was fun with sporty layback moves on nice flakes at the bottom four bolts (5.8), then a bit more slabby at the top (5.5-7). There is quartz in the granite for the first 20 feet which makes it a lot more slippery than the rest of the crag. No stars in D'Antonio's book, but pay no attention to that. It is definitely worth climbing!
Mar 10, 2014
Back in Colorado two months later. Dale Haas and I put a new hanger on the first bolt and upgraded the anchor bolts with Fixe SS double ring hangers.
Aug 22, 2013
The hanger and nut are missing from the first bolt. It looks like a 10mm SS wedge bolt (takes a 10x1.5 SS nut). I would replace it, but I am flying back to California tomorrow. Until the hanger gets replaced, you can clip the first bolt on the route to the left.
Jun 21, 2013
Went up this thinking it was pure sport...it's not. First 4 bolts are pretty low on the route and close together then after that it is runout for about 40ft to the anchors. Suprisingly a fun route for a 5.8 but if your not used to runouts with certain deckouts if you slip near the top then don't do this...or place gear.
Jun 4, 2011
Maybe they were "Abandoned".
May 4, 2010
I cleaned your draws off these anchors yesterday. If you left them there deliberately, I'm sorry I removed them. If you forgot them I will do my best to get them back to you. Pm me with a description of the draws, and I will make sure you get them back. thanks Jason
May 4, 2010
Did this yesterday- led it clean w/ the beta from this site. Placed a green Alien above the 4th bolt & a black Alien in the flake just a little ways from the anchor (above Lease Agreement/NLOL). Had a great time, fun route!
Jul 8, 2009
I wouldn't recommend running the top out. There is a thin move near the anchors and a slip would be fatal.
Oct 1, 2008
This route is fun but rather short. I felt it was a bit harder than Topless Etiquette. The four bolts are probably only 10 feet apart (total), then there is a runout of 30' or so to the anchors. The top part is easier, but you would probably hit the ground if you slipped. For peace of mind I'd recommend a few Aliens (I used a yellow Alien).
Oct 28, 2003
Microcams will also work well for the section above the bolts.
Aug 13, 2003
I can guarantee that there are no manufactered pockets on this route or at the Riviera at all.
Mar 26, 2002
This route is called 'Abandonment' and is rated 5.8. You can continue up from the 4th bolt to a higher anchor (bring gear if a new leader) or follow the quartz dike up and left to the anchors shared with previous route. Either way a decent route on easy rock.
Nov 15, 2001
Two things I noticed about this route. 1. It would easily go with gear for the competent 5.8 leader, 2. At least one very suspicious pocket on the route. Does anyone know about this pocket? Ive climbed in the canyon for 7 years and can count on one hand the number of perfect pockets I've seen and two of them were within 15 minutes at the Riviera. Otherwise a fun route that will mind bend anyone not used to runouts.
Jan 1, 2001
- Au Natural
Just climbed on Monday Jan. 30th 2017, great lead with fun moves in the dihedral at the beginning. The runout is a little hairy near the top, but there are solid holds so nothing to serious. I traversed to the right anchors, and about 10-15 feet from the anchor I used 2 small nuts to create a horizontal oppositional placement which really put my mid at ease (maybe overkill maybe not). Great climb, sustained 5.7 the whole way.
Feb 2, 2017
I didn't read the route beta therefore had a hard time deciding which way to go. I traversed left to the last bolt on "Minstrel". Worked good for me.
Nov 16, 2016
Climbed this 03/22/15...finished to left per option 2. I opted out of using the bolt. Instead, plugged a yellow TCU at top of corner (maybe 10' shy of option 1 chains) just right/below the roof then made traverse at base of roof block (2 moves thin fingers and small ledge/smear feet, then a short jug haul to the chains)...definitely added some spice with the runout and possibility of a pendulum back into the corner below. IMO traverse felt like easy 9, but might give it an R for the fall.
Mar 23, 2015
Very different, in a good way, from the rest of The Riviera. Great stemming up the dihedral with good gear and easy placement stances. I used 3 TCUs from #2-4, 5 medium nuts, and a BD #0.75. My buddy climbed it only placing nuts, but I would not recommend that. I traversed right to the anchors above Devin's Dihedral but will come back and take the harder finish straight up to the anchors for the two 5.11s to the left. Looked like there was OK gear there and definitely good holds up to the ledge. As Hiro ^^^ said, there is a small pocket that takes a #3 TCU if you choose to go right across the traverse. It is not a great placement but gives you a little comfort as you side step across the easy ledge.
Mar 10, 2014
Fun climb, fun moves to expose your sport climbers to. You can finger and hand jam in some places if desired. Instead of having a follower, I set it as a TR, with a directional over the main part of the climb and then some pieces on the traverse. Found a pocket to put a #3 in just before the traverse. TRs need to walk back over to reclip pieces for next climber - it is easy terrain at the top to do this. I'm describing the up and right option here. A 60m rope handles this setup just fine - this puts the belay far right of the start, under the anchor.
May 23, 2013
Fun moves near the bottom. There is a perma-cam at the bottom of the route that feels like it would hold an elephant. first 6-7 moves are the crux which consists of stemming and body shimmering. gets easier as you go up. gets a little runout at the top.
Jul 19, 2012
Another option is to climb up to the right, place the #2 Camalot on a double-length sling then down-climb a bit and do the traverse left to the anchors above Minstrel. Good edges for the feet, but a bit balance-y and difficult/impossible to protect the second on the traverse. Felt like 7+ or 8 for a move or two done this way (BoCan grades; 5.6 in Eldo ;^).
Apr 11, 2010
Nice route though I'm not sure I'd call it a solid 5.8. Maybe the top part. Unfortunately, I got suckered into continuing up the dihedral to the roof and then traversing left to a bolt. Gear is pretty thin up there and it was mighty dicey. Still a nice route with easy access to the anchors for Sea Breeze and The Minstrel. I'd definitely do it again.
Apr 16, 2006
I brought my gear so I could avoid the lines on a weekend. Nobody on this route for some reason. Couldn't figure it out. I chose to finish left on the face climbing. You can get a couple decent stopper placements below the face climbing, but sport climbers may find it too run out. The climbing really isn't very hard from the last stopper placement to the bolt on the face, so I wasn't worried about a big fall.
Oct 3, 2005
- Beach Bum
- Birthday Suit
Another option is to continue straight up the arete rather than cutting rght to Silver Glide. A bit runout though.
Feb 26, 2016
Better than advertised. I think that Percious may not have gotten his route right given the 10d rating and the manufactured hold comment. A couple of cams for the bottom and the crack after the 1st bolt make this a little less sporty.
Oct 31, 2011
I found that a few Aliens (green and yellow is what I used) kept this a little safer. There is a tricky move after the first bolt before you can get the 2" cam in. The yellow Alien protected this nicely. The mantle up to the second bolt is pretty tricky. The climbing after this is interesting enough, but the bolt job is pretty poor. They're all good bolts, and they're plenty close, but their placement is pretty random. I didn't notice the manufactured holds, but I wasn't looking that close. Wouldn't surprise me.
Jun 2, 2010
If manufactured holds are your cup of tea, this will be right up your alley.
Aug 13, 2009
Left anchor bolt-nut is loose. Next party should take a wrench and tighten it. Cheers,
Jun 22, 2005
Ditto, better than a bomb. Worth a run if you're there.
Sep 29, 2003
This is fun, tricky, and thoughtful for a few moves, especially trying to mantle onto that first ledge. Yes, it is a bit crammed in, but it does not deserve the "Bomb" rating. A #2 Camalot protects between the first and second bolt; probably nice to use a shoulder-length sling to avoid rope drag.
Sep 26, 2003
Hmmm. I went straight up the right side, not knowing what route was what until after I'd done them. I placed a few tricams in the crack on the arete between the first and second bolts to do this route, and was glad to have them for what I perceived to be the crux.
May 1, 2002
For those who can't make it up Silver Glide (that's me), this is actually quite a good route. While the book shows the route going around the arete to get to the second bolt, it's possible to go straight up the lower face and do a nice and rather balancy mantle off the obvious shelf.
Apr 13, 2002
- Bosch Blanket Bingo
Being taller helps a lot if you go directly over the roof at the crux. I'd say 5.9ish.
Dec 21, 2014
Climbed this today. Really fun route. I found the start to be the hardest part, but I did the 5.9 variation at the roof. It would be much easier to move a few feet left at the start, but I went straight up to 1st bolt, & it was fun. Nice, sustained climb with good holds when you really need them. I'd say 5.8+ is about right. I'll probably do the roof directly if I climb it again-might be more fun.
Sep 27, 2014
It was fun pulling the 2nd roof, but then it gets a bit runout to the last bolt. I would have liked to have a #1 or #2 Camalot.
May 5, 2014
Contrived - and weird bolting.
Jan 6, 2013
As a new 5.9 leader, I found this route fun and varied. There are 2 steep portions with some slabby features before the run to the anchors :)
Feb 21, 2011
This didn't really feel like a route. It felt more like part of the Riviera grid-bolt system. Here's a line of bolts; do whatever moves seem interesting to you in the vicinity of these bolts. None of them really form a distinct route.
Jun 2, 2010
If you are bored with clipping bolts, you can lead this one on trad gear. Gear to #2 cam....
Sep 9, 2007
Great climb! Fun rout the whole way up. I didn't think there was a 10d anywhere in the climb. A 10b at most was at the first overhang and maybe the second.
Aug 28, 2007
Surprisingly large holds just below and over the fifth bolt.
May 7, 2004
A good climb though found it a bit confusing in knowing what the intent of the exact line is. The move at the fourth bolt is definitely 5.10 something if you don't use the crack. There is a small 2 finger pocket for your left hand to help you over the bulge but your all the holds for your left foot seem to be slanted in the wrong direction just when u need them. If you work your way up high on the bulge and reach for a second into the crack with your left hand, the move becomes much easier.
Nov 23, 2003
I don't like this type of route because it feels contrived to follow the bolt line. If you stay right of the bolts, it's probably not even 5.9, but following them seemed harder than 5.9. An orange Alien can be slotted above the roof, or you can make some easy moves and clip the final bolt.
Oct 28, 2003
After the crux this is a little runout, but the section that's runout it only about 5.5, if that. I liked this climb, slabby roof sections that have a mini-Yosemite feeling to them.
Sep 6, 2002
You can lead the crack with gear at about 5.7. This is how I got the anchors in for Bosch Blanket.
Mar 26, 2002
Did this route today, it is a little bit of a squeeze job if you don't follow the bolt line. The move at the 4th bolt seems harder than 5.10 straight up, very reachy, without getting into the crack at left. From here, fire straight over the little overhanging section, again very reachy. (Almost dyno for under 5'7".) A decent line, you could lead the whole crack with trad gear for a decent route as well.
Nov 15, 2001
Fairly decent route. I was able to place a few mid-sized cams after the bulge for added security.
Jan 1, 2001
5.8 or 5.10d, depending on whether you go around the bulge at mid-height, or go directly over it. First climb outside in 2001! Good to get out.
Jan 1, 2001
- Chouette
I placed two mid-sized nuts between the second and third bolts. I brought cams, but I did not use them.
Oct 30, 2013
Excellent climb. I gave this one 5.7. Definitely an easy-moderate but some difficult movement on small holds in places. Not a cake walk. Bring a #0.5 Camalot for the start and some small nuts for the mid-section. Alternatively, if you're solid at 5.6, don't bother with trad gear -- these spots are on the easy side for this climb.
Jun 10, 2013
Did it today with 4 bolts and a 3 bolt anchor. Don't think it's necessary to use all three as they all seemed sturdy to me. Led without any gear but quickdraws and had about a 25 foot runout between the second and third bolt. Climbing between the second and third was some of the easier climbing on the route. Had someone toprope after me and no problem with the anchors. Definitely had a 3rd bolt added to the anchors so there shouldn't be any more fuss about them.
Mar 19, 2013
I checked the anchor today. The bolts cannot be tightened, because they are Rawls and will not tighten. They looked good other than the hangers being loose. I added a 3rd bolt to give everyone warm fuzzy feelings. Especially since these are popular beginner routes.
May 30, 2012
Anchors are still a bit loose and spinning. Top roped on 'em nonetheless. They're probably okay, but someone should think about replacing them. This route would be really safe with a set of nuts.
May 16, 2012
Anchors still seem sketchy/loose/weathered to me. Didn't let my belayer top-rope it. Plus, it sees tons of traffic. P.S. - I lead 10 and still placed two cams. Route didn't seem that easy to me.
Jun 25, 2011
No fixed gear but the bolts.
May 22, 2011
FYI, there is a fixed nut about halfway between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. I didn't work on getting it out too much so I'm not so certain as to the "fixed" nature of it, but it does fix the small run out between the bolts. I led this as sport only (with the addition of that fixed nut) and it felt reasonably well protected.
Aug 2, 2010
This is a fine route for a beginning trad leader. There are feet all over the place so rests are plentiful. I had a friend do her first lead here today. I preplaced gear so she could just clip and this thing can be sewn up. The 4 bolts are just an extra bonus to me. Plus I find the movement much more fun and interesting than Splash to the right.
Jun 6, 2010
Climbed yesterday- fun, easy route that takes more gear than you might think. The hanger on the 2nd or 3rd bolt was loose, I tightened the nut as much as I could by hand...a wrench would be in order at some point in the near future. The anchors seemed solid though.
Jul 15, 2009
Climbed it today 11/4/07 and the anchor hangers still spin, but the bolts seem solid. The second bolt on the route is loose as well. I tightened it as best I could with my fingers, but someone with a wrench may want to tighten it more.
Nov 4, 2007
WARNING: Loose Anchors!! First and foremost, both anchors at the top of this route are loose and spinning a bit. I am no expert, but I'm pretty sure that's not good. Are there people that monitor routes around here? I'm just starting to get outside, so I don't really know what to do besides report the loose anchors... Anyhow, as someone who is a moderate sport leader (5.9 ish) and just beginning to lead Trad, I thought this was a great route to practice placing gear on. I placed a Wild Country Rock #7 and a 0.5 Tricam (finger size pro) on two different cracks above the 2nd bolt. The cracks are not very far away from the 2nd bolt, so I fell on my gear (on purpose) in order to evaluate my placements better. I would not be a big fan of the runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolts if I did not have pro. Then again, I am a beginner. -ajs
May 17, 2005
A fun route. If you are uncomfortable with the runout a couple of smaller cams should be adequate for the nice crack (which u can't see from the base). This route shares the same anchors as Splash to the right which is not really the best as it not in a direct line so be prepared for some possible swings.
Mar 6, 2005
Did this in the morning before work; it's just about right for that kind of climb. Short and unsustained, yes, but with some pleasing moves nonetheless. I'll second (or third?) the notion that Aliens and a few stoppers will do the trick for pro here... wear a helmet, though. People wandering around above you will be knocking stuff down.
May 28, 2004
Even for a route that's "only" 5.6, I was glad I brought along a couple of pieces of small gear for the section between the first two bolts and the last two bolts.
Sep 6, 2003
What a great route for someone learning how to place gear. The few bolts would give that feeling of extra security to a new leader, but there are ample straightforward gear placements on this route and its neightboor, Splash.
Aug 1, 2003
Unless 5.6 or 5,7 is your limit, you'll only "need" one piece and maybe not even that. Something finger-crack-sized will be fine.
Jul 3, 2003
Great little "beginning of the season" route. I found I placed about three extra pieces (a small cam, an Alien and a nut) here and there just for the added confidence. Why not, as it is good practice. This is a great place to come if you don't have a lot of time and you wanna get in a quick pitch or two. If this route doesn't challenge you, jump on Splash directly to the right.
May 27, 2003
As a side to my comment above: I am still a beginning trad leader, so despite the bolts and level of climbing, I still have issues with protecting my climb. I do this for two reasons: 1) I want to make sure I am secure, and 2) I like practicing gear placements while on an easier route. After looking a various guidebooks and critiquing my climb there was not as much need for gear. But, a good route to practice placin' it nonetheless.
Oct 26, 2002
There's 4 bolts, why is so much pro needed? It's only a 5.6! The runout part is a staircase, just don't climb it when it's wet out.This would be a great route for teaching people a trad for all the same reasons.
Sep 6, 2002
I agree with Michael about this route. I am almost certain I started it wrong, but that just made i tlonger and more interesting. Bring a bunch of draws, probably more than you think you'll need. A nice view of Boulder Canyon from the belay. A 60m rope will easily get you to the bottom. I recommend some aliens and some smaller nuts, but don't take my word for it.
Aug 29, 2002
- Dancing Hippos
This route actually angles left the entire time. It finishes up 180' near the base of The Bihedral and is mostly a face climb. What is described here is a different route.
Aug 23, 2013
- Devin's Dihedral
Great route! If only if it was 100 ft longer. I led it and felt really confident in the gear, (didn't clip the bolt) using a couple small cams and a nut. The gear I used: 0.4 C4, #7 DMM offset nut, 0.3/0.4 X4 offset, 0.1/0.2 X4 offset, 0.1 X4, and 0.75 C4. The 0.1 X4 was placed at bolt height, in a crystal pod, around the right arete. Instead of the 0.1 X4, I wish I had another 0.1/0.2 X4 offset or TCU. This placement was difficult to clean. If you feel great about your gear, skip the bolt. If not, don't be a fool, just clip it.
Nov 25, 2015
This route can be zipped up with a blue/purple MC, a #0.75 C4 out left and the bolt. Best route at the crag.
Jul 7, 2013
To easily top rope this without doing the sketchy lead and if you can't climb 5.10 (the climb to the right that shares the same anchor) is to do Bosch Blanket trailing a second rope, clip into the anchors of Bosch and continue leading a few more feet over to the next anchor to your left (easy traverse, but don't fall because of course potential for a little swing). Clip in again of course to that anchor as you set up the top rope and then go back to the first anchors and lower. Maybe this is obvious but just for your info. Eeks, it was ten years ago when I first commented on this route.
May 19, 2013
More gear beta: there is a small horizontal nut placement around the rounded (right) corner just before the last committing moves out of the dihedral.
Oct 22, 2011
I found this climb to be varied and thought provoking, bolt or not. Definitely bring some small cams along, maybe a couple of green c3s (save one for after the bolt). I decided from the ground to decide whether to clip the bolt when I got there. Due to the flaring nature of the crack, protection was somewhat dubious and quite a bit down from the bolt, which meant I thought better to clip the bolt and wuss out than break my legs in a nasty fall (or worse!). I encourage you to make the same evaluation and climb it in whatever manner makes you happiest. I will say that every person that seconded this route after me raved about it, and that the bolt did make for a good directional to keep them safe. IMO, best route at the crag.
Aug 8, 2011
Fun and safe with the bolt, but I wouldn't recommend it to a budding 5.9 trad leader.
Oct 20, 2008
Personally I thought it was a fun route and one of the better routes at the crag. Thoughtful moves required and extra spicy for the leader. Even more fun in 40 degree weather with numb fingers. Not to be missed if at the crag. Rossiter gives this route a star and a 5.9+ rating.
Nov 23, 2003
There's a microcam in a tiny horizontal around to the right of the rounded arete before you get to the bolt. I remember being gripped just getting to the bolt.
Nov 4, 2003
I did it without the bolt and you are right, it is more interesting. I carried a handful of RPs and offsets and still didn't get a good piece in until after the crux. It's more or less a S/VS 5.9 climb. My previous comment was made without the knowledge that the retrobolting was by permission fo the FA party (whomever you are), although I don't necessarily endorse it. The info that the FA party was in consent came from an anonymous source here...So who did the FA?
Nov 4, 2003
History: I was pointed to this by Richard Rossiter a good while back. I did the first lead sans bolt with Steve Ilg as my second. Try it sometime without the bolt, which was added with my permission by Jon Grayson, it is even more thoughtful. The route was originally named Devin's Dihedral. I have no idea why it was renamed.
Nov 3, 2003
This is a great climb on great rock. It's too short, but it's far from being a one-move wonder. The moves, like the gear placements, require some thought. Also, both the moves and the gear can feel a little insecure. However the stances are good enough that you have plenty of time to think through your gear placements and moves, so it feels pretty safe. I used only small stoppers through the crux, as I didn't see anywhere to get in a cam. Maybe a micro cam in the dihedral - but I don't have any.
Oct 26, 2003
This is one of the nicer routes on the Riviera. Neat laybacking and stemming with two different ways to do the finish.
Aug 4, 2002
I liked this climb. It's possible to layback part of the dihedral, both feet on right wall, fingers in seam/crack. When the seam runs out you can move out right on sketchy friction.
May 6, 2002
It's short, but somewhat fun. I'd tell people it was fun and if they got somehow stranded at this bolt-infested crag that it is worth the bother. 1-star, and a lot better than many of the other routes there. Too bad it was retro-bolted.
May 1, 2002
Deserves a star. It is oddly reminscent of the 2nd pitch of Where Eagles Dare. Offset cams are not required. It is not R rated with the bolt.
Mar 22, 2002
I agree with the comment above. Though short, the balancy crux was fun and exciting. I was able to place a #1 and #2 Camalot on long slings before the lone bolt, then ran it out to the anchors on fairly easy rock. Rossiter rates it a 9+.
Jan 1, 2001
I have to agree with Matt. I really enjoyed this route, having done many of the routes at the Riviera. It also offers the best placement for the yellow/red offset Alien Ive gotten yet! Remember, you're not in Eldo here, the climbs are short, but this was classic Canyon stemming and slab moves in my opinion.
Jan 1, 2001
I thought this was a quite fun route....5.6 climbing with very thoughtful pro (use slings) to a steep and slick dihedral with a seam (no pro) and a perfect bolt on the left wall to protect this balancy crux. Above the bolt is sustained 5.8 climbing for ~15 feet until a perfect Alien placement...eases off to 2 bolt belay. This exciting and fun pitch.
Jan 1, 2001
- Infestation
Left Mussy hook has been replaced (not by me). The challenge of this route for me came on the slab section just over the first bolt, but I'm also not that great at slab. I enjoyed the route but didn't find it to be very sustained. Once you nail the first two bolts, you're done.
Apr 22, 2017
The left mussy hook is definitely compromised. Its clip flips right up past the hook. Not much of an issue if you are rapping or TRing, but if anyone is moving left to the next anchors, it seems very possible that the rope would slip out of that left hook.
Mar 18, 2017
Should I just add a bolt? Hahahaha!
Jun 28, 2016
Placing gear before the 1st bolt helps limit this risk. Greg Hand suggested this in the Protection section above.
Jun 28, 2016
First big move to the bolt is legit on lead. You gotta commit to goin left and up to the jug. 5.10+ on lead because of the first move. If you miss the jug and fall from a blown foot, you're deckin' really hard. 5.9- if you top rope it.
Jun 26, 2016
There's a hidden hold that's BOMBER maybe 3 feet to left and above the 1st bolt. The trick is to find it.
Nov 24, 2015
Climbed this on 1st attempt today. Key for shorter folks (I'm 5'9') is to get your feet up high so you can grab the great jug hold to the left. Once I got that hold, it was pretty easy to pull the roof. I struggled with this climb last time I was here, because the hold is a bit hard to reach, but it was pretty easy today. 5.9 for the roof and some tricky slab above. Great fun!
Sep 27, 2014
First 15-20 feet is really fun. A bit reachy for shorter folks (I'm 5'9"). My son is 6'2" and was able to climb it with a lot less difficulty (and fewer moves). 1st bolt is a little high & placing a piece of pro lower is a good idea (for reason in post above) unless you are confident you won't fall (or stick clip the bolt). 5.9+ for short folks, in my opinion.
Jul 26, 2014
Hardest moves are getting off the ground. A wet start and confusion as to which route we were actually on made the crux a little harder than necessary. Probably 5.9 if you climb it right. Pro at the start is recommended if only to keep you from taking your partner down the hill if you fall....
Apr 23, 2013
There is some really nice holds at the first clip with one of the harder moves of the route getting to them. If you just stem and find the good feet, it shouldn't be a problem without some additional gear. There is another crimpy crux move later on that is well protected but definitely goes along with the rating in my opinion. One of the better protected routes on the crag for someone without a trad rack. If you can make the first bolt, then the rest of it is doable without a rack. Don't think the wasp nest made it through the winter.
Mar 19, 2013
FWIW, this had been climbed at least by 2001 if not earlier.
Mar 11, 2012
Hard first move or two, then 5.6-7 or so climbing the rest of the way.
Oct 24, 2011
Make sure you don't think this is Chouette, which is not in the Boulder Canyon guide. I managed to convince myself that it was. Oops. One could just go for the first bolt without placing gear behind the (awkward) left-facing crack, as suggested, just don't fall -- it will be uncomfortable, and the start is technical. A small cam makes this start less scary. Also, I didn't place a second cam above the 2nd bolt, and felt safe, whatever that's worth. The first 20' is 5.9, the remainder is 5.5-5.7.
Jul 15, 2011
If you're short this could be 5.9 and a spicy first clip (we didn't bother with a cam), but if you're 5'10"+, just stem and use your feet and it's pretty easy to get to the jug out left. I practically had a no hands stance below the reach.
May 26, 2011
- Le Nouveau Riche
Climbed this today. Very fun climb! However, I only saw one bolt (at the crux), plus two at the anchors. The climb was perfectly safe using gear IMO but is a trad climb, not a sport climb.
Oct 24, 2017
I think the wide disparity on grading for this climb is due to how it is climbed. If you do not move left or right it is hard. The more you wander, the easier it gets.
Nov 17, 2015
5.10a for this route in the Boulder Canyon guide is presumably a misprint, as this is much harder other 10a routes in this area - there are several Pex Hill 5c moves between bolts 2 & 3!
Oct 10, 2015
Dale Haas and I replaced the four bolts on this climb with 3/8" SS Powers Power-Bolts (AKA 5-piece). Most people only clip the first three bolts when doing this route. The fourth bolt is about 20 feet up and slightly left of the anchor shared by Chouette and Splash. The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA - safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
Jun 16, 2015
Wow, that 'second' bolt is a heck of a stretch if you're short. At 5'4", it's a very heady clip.
Jun 14, 2014
A little surface rust, but the bolts are still good. The route is harder than the guidebook suggested. Maybe, the bolting and the grade 10a was right in 1987.
Oct 28, 2013
How rusted is "very rusted"? Some pics would help. I've replaced quite a few bolts & hangers lately and although they were rusted on the surface, the underside of the wedge bolt nut, or Rawl bolt were just fine.
May 17, 2013
Climbed this route the other week. All bolts are very rusted (bolts, hangers are fine). I placed a single set of Aliens on the climb to mitigate the danger of a bolt failing. Hope someone replaces them sooner or later.
May 17, 2013
Awesome route, one of the best at the Riviera! Be wary of the guidebook description though, "5.10a bolts and a few small pieces" leaves out quite a few details. The route is very run out in places, but this is over easy rock and makes the climb quite fun. The harder spots (more like 10b/c) are well protected. Why can't there be more like this in Boulder Canyon?? Had to laugh after looking over from the second bolt and seeing the guy on the next route over clipping bolt #6.... Load up the small gear for this climb, I didn't use anything larger than a yellow Alien and found a small brassie to be oh so nice when otherwise facing a possible groundfall clipping the second bolt. Enjoy!!
Apr 21, 2013
I think it's worth noting that the protection bolts are showing some wear. All three had significant rust, and the first had a loose hanger. You can top rope this route after climbing the 5.8 route to the left using the third bolt as a directional.
Jun 14, 2012
Not the best route at the Riv. The latest guidebook downgrades it to 10a. Glad to see the majority agree this climb is 10b/c, maybe even d at the final bolt. 10a moves at the first bolt, then runout, easy to the second. I got in a couple of small pieces to protect the step out to reach the second bolt, then it's sustained 5 or 6 moves up to and past 3rd bolt. Tough clip hanging off a right hand crimp. Runout to the anchors was no problem.
Jun 18, 2011
The thin moves from the 2nd to 3rd bolt definitely make this a great 10b. Top roping from the anchors gives these crux moves a bit of a fun pendulum swing potential.
Jul 7, 2010
Best climb on the wall IMO. Bolts and gear are where you need them. Small TCUs will get you to the first bolt. I placed an RP off left before getting to the 2nd bolt, and I placed a #2 Camalot as a directional for my second above the last bolt. 10b felt correct.
Oct 20, 2008
Great old-school line w/ very thoughtful moves. I felt going direct between @ last 2 bolts to be the definite crux & 5.10d.
Jul 14, 2008
The slabby section after the second bolt felt nearly as difficult as Sea Breeze.
Sep 21, 2006
In IMHO, the only 5.10 part was maybe one or two moves getting past the first bolt. After that smooth sailing. Still worth doing.
Dec 24, 2005
This route is as it should be. It is perfectly bolted.
Feb 28, 2005
Fun route that definitely keeps you on your toes. Compared to TE, it looks way runout, but it is true the bolts are just where you need 'em. Leo's advice on gear is good, I managed to place 2 stoppers, 2 Aliens and the #1 Camalot (after the last bolt). The only place that is runout is after the first bolt, but it is surprisingly easy there.
Oct 28, 2003
This is a great route. A few Aliens and a #1 Camalot make it quite reasonable for the competent leader. One of the best routes of its grade in the canyon. Footwork is key.
Mar 5, 2002
This route is not over-bolted like the rest of the routes at this area which makes it much more exciting. The bolts are at the places where they are needed. Someone went crazy with their drill at the Riviera (sport Park??). That aside, this route is worth climbing.
Oct 20, 2001
- Le Nouveau Riche Variation
- Lease Agreement
Climbed this 2/18/17 all bolts and hangers looked great. Fun climb with an early crux - enjoy!
Feb 20, 2017
Dale Haas and I upgraded the anchor bolts on this climb with Fixe SS double ring hangers.
Aug 22, 2013
Gah, why could't the crack be 50' longer?! Overall a fun route with a great variety of climbing styles packed into a short distance. Super safe lead as well, throw a few cams in the crack and go for it!
Aug 6, 2013
A challenging route for me - finishing the crack in particular. Protected it with a 0.75 and 0.3 Camalot (if you're going to use a single piece, something between that would probably be best to take). The polished foothold someone else mentioned is probably the one thing that makes finishing the crack difficult. My partner stepped on it, but I couldn't for the life of me. Took me many tries to find something to hold onto above the crack - taller people will have an easier time reaching (I'm 5'9"). Plenty of space to dump your gear below the crag and a plethora of places to lay out your rope tarp and stand for belay. Luxurious in this sense. The area is partially shaded, not nearly as exposed as the Upper. I think this route will be on my future re-do list for a rp.
May 15, 2012
Sweet finger crack and great ring lock to get the crux! Fun staying on the bolt line, working the vertical dike. Despite the length, still worth 3 stars, imo.
Feb 26, 2012
Great short climb. I agree if that finger crack were longer I would be great. I wonder how many times I have said that, lol. Buy great finger locks lead to easy face climbing. Gear beta: a red c3 and a #0.4 Camalot is fully enough gear for a guy like me that gets scared on Eldo 5.8.
Nov 26, 2011
Fun route. There is what looks like an incredible foothold out left that would make the route a lot easier - strangely, it is super slick and almost unusable, no idea why.
Apr 18, 2011
Got a nut stuck on the top of the crack while I was climbing there on Sun. If you can get it out, you're welcome to it. I tried for about 10 minutes, but it was starting to rain and booming thunder, so I left it. It's wedged in there pretty good.
Jul 19, 2010
The fixed cam is gone.
Apr 14, 2008
Great crack to practice on. We climbed the next climb over to the right then left TR on this climb. I enjoyed this climb a lot but gave it a 1 star b/c the crack is not long enough and the top is too easy for the 10a grade.
Aug 27, 2007
Protects very well with a green and/or yellow Alien.
Mar 17, 2007
I thought this was a good example of a 5.9+ . The day we did it I watched two people lead it (including me) and four follow. Everyone fell off! At least once. All the same folks routinely climbed the 10a and 10bs right next to this without a fall. The deal is that the crack sucks you up with great pro (TCUs and stoppers) and then just when you go for what should be a locker hand jam the crack becomes off hand size. Once you figure this out and jam your foot in the crack instead of trying to use the face holds you can yard up and get a thumb forefinger lock in just the right place. Then its 5.9+ until you find that its solid 10 trying to go straight up on off hands and feet that are too high.
Sep 5, 2004
I thought this route was harder than 5.9, perhaps because I am more comfortable with footwork than hands. While the finger locks in the crack are great, the move that gets you to the first bolt is quite tough, as there are no decent footholds and the crack peters out a bit. Maybe I was just off when I was there, but I did it on TR after leading it (with some aid), and still though it was a good deal tougher than other Boulder Canyon 5.9's. Definitely a worthwhile climb. It's ridiculously easy to place good pro below the bolts.
Nov 17, 2003
The crack is fun and has some great fingerlocks, but is over too quickly. I don't know where you got a hand jam on this route, Jeff! The upper part felt contrived and you can make it easier by not following the bolt line.
Oct 28, 2003
For the length is a very nice line. If only that crack were a bit longer. (like 50 feet or so) Nice hands, just above hand jamming. You must be strict about the top and try to stay in line with the bolts, as the routes on this side of the crag are squeeze jobs. Have fun on this one.
Nov 15, 2001
- Minstrel, The
Shares too much real estate with Sea Breeze and Au Natural.
Dec 5, 2012
As of today this route is a little harder. My friend hulked out and broke off the third or fourth crimp before the first bolt.
Apr 27, 2010
It may well be "The Minstrel." Note, however, that "Mistral" is much more in keeping thematically with both "Riviera" and "Sea Breeze." Since Rossiter lists it as "Mistral," it's probably useful to list it as an alias for folks that are cross referencing MP to printed guides, and for "Mistral" to appear in the text of this page so it shows up in a search. I didn't find it difficult to keep this route and Sea Breeze separate--I pretty much climbed the bolted line, and so stayed clearly (though not dramatically) right of Sea Breeze, mostly centered on the short face. As such, this route was, for me, definitely the more difficult of the two (and earned its 11a rating).
Jun 6, 2009
This was kinda contrived. Climb up the corner, clip a few bolts moving up the face on thin crimps. Right next to Sea Breeze so it's tough to keep to one route. Sea breeze is better. CL
Mar 1, 2008
This one gets my vote for Most Contrived route at the Riviera for which there are several contenders. Do Sea Breeze, which is excellent, and skip this one.
Jun 13, 2003
Walt - The route is called "The Minstrel". As for the previous comment. I am not sure thay anything has broken off, there is a small crimp and the feet can be worked up a little higher perhaps for you to reach the holds just a little bit out of reach before you join back in with Seabreeze. Head back and try it again, just use the higher feet on the slab.
Nov 15, 2001
I did this route a few months ago, and seemed like a fun climb - i.e., I TRd it, and wanted to come back and lead it. Went back last weekend, and tried it again, and I am convinced that a crimper toward the top has BROKEN OFF - after you move right from the vertical seam, above bolt #3, I think. There are good crimpers for both hands on the height of the 3rd bolt, and a long armsreach above, a new, blank piece of rock that seems to be where the next hold was last time. I'd be interested to see what other people say.
Jul 16, 2001
- Monte Carlo
This route was a nice warm-up, though I wouldn't recommend going out here just for this route. If you're in the area, it's worth doing once. Just be aware that this route is extremely short. There is value in doing this route as a warm-up for Infestation, which shares an anchor with this route, or if other people are on the other easier routes at this crag, most of which are better than this route stand-alone. It's a fine route, but I probably won't be doing it again.
Apr 17, 2017
Ron Olsen and I replaced both Mussy hooks at the anchor today. Thanks to Ron for providing the hardware.
Apr 12, 2017
The left mussy hook is definitely compromised. Its clip flips right up past the hook. Not much of an issue if you are rapping or TRing, but if anyone is moving left to the next anchors, it seems very possible that the rope would slip out of that left hook.
Mar 18, 2017
If you're 5'10" or over, it's an easy first clip from the top of the scramble. Work around to the left then up. Add a grade from what you lead in the gym, most routes are run out! Top right bolt is a spinner, be sure your top rope anchor is extension limiting and equalized. Look it up.
Jun 26, 2016
Fun, well protected, short route. Crux at the beginning was fun but not difficult. Last bolt to Mussy hooks was like climbing a stepladder. I lead it then pulled the rope left so we could toprope Infestation, which is a fun route as well. 5.6 seemed about right.
Jul 26, 2014
- New Lease on Life
Squeeze job.
Nov 13, 2017
My buddy Dale Haas and I replaced the missing hanger on that bolt in June 2016.
Feb 20, 2017
This is a fun route. If you're leading, take a nut to hang on the third (maybe second?) bolt, which is missing it's hanger. You can see this from the ground. This makes the lead a little spicier, since you'll want to move up and left (just a tad) of the bolt to keep climbing. This will make the fall not directly down, making the nut wire seems less than ideal. (Edit: this has been fixed - there is a new hanger on the bolt, so there is no need for the wire trick.) However, the holds are solid, and you're never far from another bolt on this part of the wall.
May 30, 2016
Squeezed in between two adjacent routes and hard to avoid holds on these.
Oct 10, 2015
Staying left makes this climb a lot easier. Direct felt about 10c.
Dec 21, 2014
This route is in the new Boulder Canyon guidebook.
Jul 11, 2014
New Lease on Life. FA: P. Thompson, 8/98.
May 20, 2003
The path of least resistance felt to be 9 range. It is certainly not a 10 unless you really ignore a bunch of holds. I recall a brief traverse left near the 2nd bulge. It is easier than its 10a neighbor left.
May 19, 2003
It is either 9+ on left or 10d on right. Enjoy!
Mar 26, 2002
A little bit squeezed, although if you do remain stern and follow the bolt line directly the route has quite nice moves and I would give it a 10+ rating.
Nov 15, 2001
This route goes at either 10 or 11a, according to Rolofson.
Jan 1, 2001
- Sea Breeze
Maybe I'm short? but I found clipping the second bolt tricky...? otherwise it was really fun and found the climbing hard but doable.
May 11, 2014
This seemed a bit harder than 11a to me. It took me a long time to figure out the crux moves.
Feb 28, 2014
5.11a felt accurate to me. It seems like tricky 5.10 climbing up to the fourth (?) bolt and then 1 move of 5.11 off the small crimp to better holds above.
Aug 6, 2013
Seemed a bit hard for 11a, but a fun route with the hard parts well protected. Gets a lot easier but a bit runout at the top.
Nov 7, 2011
I led this route today, and really, really enjoyed it, but I also found it extremely challenging. The footwork was super delicate and the crux crack really thin. We both felt it was harder than 11a.
Jul 3, 2011
This route has some cool moves stacked one on top of each other. Too bad it starts so high off the ground and finishes early with easy and runout for no reason climbing. 11a seems fair to me. Takes great foot work to onsight and the final crux mantle is cool.
May 22, 2011
Felt 10c to me. Safe and fun.
Oct 20, 2008
I don't think the moves were any harder than 11a, there were just a lot of tricky moves for such a short climb.
Apr 17, 2004
Maybe I suck at footwork, but this seemed hard for an .11a to me. Maybe I was tired 'cause I'd just climbed Silver Glide.
Sep 6, 2002
Disagree. 11a seemed right. Make sure it is dry. A foot route. 2nd best on the crag after Le Nouveau Riche. Easier than Silver Glide. Addendum: it's probably tougher on hotter days.
Mar 5, 2002
- Silver Glide
TRed this with my son today. He got it clean on 2nd try, I hung once before pulling the moves on my 2nd try. We both enjoyed it a lot. It doesn't ease up all that much after the crux.
Mar 29, 2013
At first I thought this was solid 11c, but the second time I climbed it I was able to work out a better sequence in the crux. If you implement good foot work and balance, it's more like 11a/b. Also, my buddy Landon TRed it and found a good mantle variation at the crux to gain the right foot stem. Not sure how hairy that move would be on lead though. After the tricky crux, the grade eases down to very fun 5.10 face climbing. All in all, it's a good climb.
Mar 22, 2011
Ouch. Crimpy left hands through the crux. Ouch. Worth a tick, but do it last to save your tips.
Oct 20, 2008
Agree with 11a. Use good footwork to get up high through the crux. Fun moves and then easy after the crux. CL
Mar 1, 2008
This really is just a one-move climb but the one move is really interesting. I had to think it over quite a while; half the difficulty is in ruling out the obvious alternatives. I also used Leo's "vulcan hold" for the left hand and then did a push with the right to stem the right foot up. After that I was able to stand up and reach the good stuff. Cranking off the finger crack would work, but is much more burly.
May 23, 2006
Fun route. 11a, maybe 11b tops and somewhat bouldery crux.
Mar 25, 2006
Left anchor bolt-nut is loose. Next party should take a wrench and tighten it. Cheers,
Jun 22, 2005
From a sampling of this crag, there isn't much here that is too interesting. The 10 feet of tricky climbing on Silver Glide is cool, and definitely one of the area highlights. The crux seems to be legitimate 11+, although this is definitely an easy 11+ route, given that the hard part is pretty short. Feels more like a V3 boulder problem.
Jul 16, 2004
Solid 5.11d with no left hand to speak of on the crux pull. Bomber crack for right finger must be used to walk the right foot onto a small vetical stem on narrow vertical face. Crank on right hand hold, shift weight into rock, step up with left foot onto small ledge and reach high for pocket with left hand. Very balancy move favoring taller climbers. The meat is 15' of hard cimbing.
Oct 9, 2002
Key, left hand, vulcan hold at the crux took a few rounds to find.
Mar 5, 2002
- Splash
Dale Haas and I replaced the five protection bolts on this climb and two anchor bolts(shared with Chouette) with 3/8" SS Powers Power-Bolts (AKA 5-piece). We added SS quicklinks and rings to the anchor. The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA - safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
Jun 18, 2015
Lead this today. Placed a few pieces of gear for peace of mind but could have done with less (or none). Kind of a weird route but actually pretty fun. I bypassed the "choss" at the top by traversing right on a nice ledge and finishing on the last 2 bolts of Infestation. Fair amount of rope drag but a nicer finish and lowered off Mussey hooks (so we could toprope Infestation). Not a bad route & long (used almost all of our 60m rope to do it and lower). I'd rate it 5.6 . Really didn't seem like 5.7 to me.
Aug 16, 2014
Can be done on gear relatively safely. I clipped two bolts, the first and the last, and could have probably done without either.
Aug 7, 2014
Definitely five bolts on this one.
Oct 30, 2013
3rd route from the right now, the second being Infestation (5.9) and Monte Carlo (5.6). Three bolts at the anchors as Greg said that I can confirm worked very well and can be used for a toprope safely. 5 bolts on the way to the anchors with a bit of a runout between the second and the third. Done without a rack pretty safely for a confident climber as the climbing between the runout is easy, much like Chouette to the left.
Mar 19, 2013
I checked the anchor today. The bolts cannot be tightened, because they are Rawls and will not tighten. They looked good other than the hangers being loose. I added a 3rd bolt to give everyone warm fuzzy feelings. Especially since these are popular beginner routes.
May 30, 2012
Any word on the anchor situation lately?
May 6, 2012
Anchors still seem sketchy/loose/weathered to me. Tons of traffic on this route.
Jun 25, 2011
Just went there today, and there are two new bolted routes to the right of Splash. I was there a month ago, and they were not there. So, no longer is Splash the furthermost route to the right. The starts are a little tricky, especially if you stay to the right of the bolt on the route to the right of Splash. If I were to guess, I would say a few 5.9 moves then gets easier on the way up.
Oct 30, 2010
I too only found 4 bolts...hmmm?
Nov 5, 2007
Yeah, the hangers do spin, but the bolts seem to be solid enough.
Jun 9, 2007
There are enough gear placements that this could probably be led more safely on all gear than on all bolts with no gear. Next time I'm up there I'll try it and see.
May 9, 2006
WARNING: The Anchors at the top Spin!! Somebody should check them out, as I'm not an expert... I already posted this comment on the Chouette (5.6) route, but since these routes share the same anchor, I thought I would post it here too, just in case. The route itself is really nice for beginners (like myself). If you can do Chouette, you can do this one too. It's not as run out as Chouette, but you can place pro if you feel the need. -ajs
May 17, 2005
This is a nice little route. A great warmup for other climbs at the Riv. I gave it a 5.7, but it's just barely so. It could just as easily get a 5.6. There is a nice variety of moves, and they are all very well protected. I agree with the concensus that a few pieces of gear are helpful if you're not too confident.
Nov 20, 2003
A fun beginner practice lead with some variety to make you think. You can either run it out a bit between bolts or have fun practicing placing pro inbetween,which is probably a good idea anyways in a couple of spots. Nice play to go if short on time as approach is easy as well.
Oct 13, 2003
I put in one pink tricam more or less for the heck of it. Otherwise the bolts (yes, 5), were plenty.
Jul 3, 2003
There's definitely 5 bolts on the route, all right where you'd want them. This route is a fun romp up a slab, with beautiful moves. I'd give it two or three stars, personally, but then I just love runout granite slab routes. It was a hoot!
Feb 5, 2002
I only counted 4 bolts, but there are many places for gear in between the bolts. A decent line for a new leader as the bolts are easily supplemented with gear (#0.75 Camalot and smaller). Anchor at top does not have any rap rings placed on it so watch your rope on this one, or just walk off to the right and walk the 50' to the ground.
Nov 15, 2001
- Topless Etiquette
I climbed this 2/18/17 & I'm 5'8". 5.8 is true to the grade and a very fun lead. Though the first bolt is high off the ground, it's very easy to get to. If you stay left, below the bolt, you can comfortably stand and clip it. Again, I'm 5'8", but at that stance, the bolt was just above head high. Fun climb, maybe a bit over bolted but great for the grade. If you're new to 5.8, do this climb, it's a good one.
Feb 20, 2017
I am a very new leader and also very short (5'3"). I tried to lead this route for the first time but could not figure out moves to get comfortable clipping the first bolt. Have other short leaders had this problem, or did I just miss it? I tried coming straight up from the bottom...and then tried to go to the left of the line and traverse in...unsuccessfully. Thanks.
Nov 1, 2016
Rob, gear will help limit the runout at the top, as suggested in the Protection section above.
Jun 28, 2016
The top 20ft is all run out but prob 5.6. A "no fall zone". I would say a 5.9+ lead because of the slabby feet.
Jun 26, 2016
Lead this today. Really pretty fun, but like some other routes at this crag, the line is a little indistinct. As others have said, no obvious crux but pretty sustained with a few nice rests. I'd call this "old school" 5.7 or modern 5.8.
Sep 27, 2014
Fun w/ some high feet.
Feb 21, 2011
Really enjoyed this route yesterday- All the bolts/hangers seemed fine to me. There's a surprisingly good crimper for the L hand just before the 4th(?) bolt. Fun!
Jul 15, 2009
The bolts are fine. Weird but fun route.
May 9, 2006
Fun route that is fairly consistently good climbing. From the anchors, it is also possible to traverse left over the anchors for Devin's Dihedral enabling you to set up a top rope for that route. (As of today, the third hanger was spinning but the bolt looked good).
Dec 24, 2005
Dear AC, Regarding the "loose bolts" on Topless Etiquette:Is the actual bolt spinning or merely the hanger? Spinning hangers are common and all that is generally required is an easy turn of the wrench. Spinning hangers are usually not dangerous unless the bolt has come dangerously unthreaded. If the bolt itself is spinning, it should be replaced.
Nov 8, 2005
WARNING: The 3rd Bolt from the bottom is loose and spinning!! Is there anyone out there who monitors these routes? I don't know how to replace the bolts, but I thought someone should know... Loose bolt aside, this is a really fun moderate route. Good moves the whole way, with good protection. It's just as easy to use the lower set of anchors as it is to use the upper set. Watch out for the wet spot near the 3rd bolt. -ajs
May 17, 2005
Excellent 5.8 sport route - fun and continuous.
Jul 16, 2004
This is a nice little route. I counted six bolts today though; the last bolt is maybe two or three feet away from the next-to-last. Is that a new bolt? Definitely felt natural to just head over to the anchors to the left, rather than straight up through the blocky section.
Sep 6, 2003
This route is quite nice and continuous, not a very defined crux as there are harder sections for shorter/taller folks. A good route to practice footwork, especially for newbies to moderate slab routes. I had fun on this one and only wish it could be longer. Just as easy to use the anchors to the left instead of going through the blocky quartzite ridge.
Nov 15, 2001
- Unknown Trad Line
- Zig Zag Crack
- Bitty Buttress
- A's Jax
This climb starts on the first pitch of "South," a climb not yet listed here and one I've done 4 times. This start is in a very distinct, right-facing dihedral just 20 feet left of the "Bitty Buttress" route and is 5.7; it protects well.
Dec 4, 2011
This route has one of the sweetest top outs in BC; a big grassy ledge with some shade and great views. Be careful with the bush just below the dihedral starts, it can snag your rope. The last pitch can be aided at C1 and provides an excellent link-up with Holy Ascension (C2(+?) or 5.13). Most routes adjacent to A's Jax's third pitch can be accessed by scrambling from the left to the top of Peapod's belay ledge and following easy 4th class to the upper ledge system.
Oct 6, 2002
- Bitty Buttress
Did this route for the first time yesterday. I would agree with Anton - the start is stiff warm-up with little gear. I combined P1 and P2 with a 70m and about 10 shoulder length runners. I had 3m of spare rope at the juniper.
Oct 8, 2017
Great route. Every pitch is classic. Average grade on this route is 5.7+/8 IMO. Each pitch has its own crux that challenges you just enough. I would be a solid 5.8 leader before going for this. Protected the start of pitch 1 and pitch 3, as well as high in the crux on pitch 3 with ballnuts (1 and 2). Pitch 3 definitely has a 5.9 move. Never used anything bigger than a #3 c4/new Friend. Offset cams come in handy but not needed. Do roof finish after the crux on pitch 3 then walk off west. I will repeat this route for years to come.
Jul 8, 2017
If you are a granite tradmaster, you'll float up this with a smile on your face. If, like me, you are more used to sandstone and clipping bolts, here are a few thoughts on gear: Pitch one is long! I would bring doubles from thin hands to tips, and I wished I had more large stoppers, like 3/4" to 1". I would have placed a couple of small tricams if I had them. I ran out of runners, so I set up a belay and tricked my partner into leading the run out finish of P1! I would probably bring 16 draws for this pitch and all alpine draws as rope drag can be a drag ;) I found the pitch to have good gear at the harder parts and some runouts at the easier parts. I didn't love my third placement off the deck - a shallow C3. At the third pitch crux, I got in the good cam from the good stance below the crux (green C4 maybe?) and flipped in a #4 BD steel nut into the thin crack above. There was a fixed wire in there, but it looked to be jammed upside down, and I didn't bother to clip it, because it looked useless and I couldn't reach it. I didn't fall on the steel nut, but it actually seemed like a decent piece. The start move on P2 off the big grassy ledge was slightly absurd, I went with the awkward high step. I guess there is a more graceful way to do it but not at 5.8 that I could find!
Apr 10, 2016
Just led the crux pitches (1&3) on this this morning, and the first 20' or so felt like a stiff warm-up to me with poor protection...8+/9-ish. There are a couple photos on here showing people placing a cam (maybe a 0.5?) in a perfect crack behind a triangular-ish block/flake
this flake isn't completely solid. I gingerly jammed this crack but didn't place gear here despite really wanting to. Seemed like a good idea, but if one were to actually fall onto said placement, I think this block/flake would actually pop off on to your belayer, along with your body. Maybe not. Other than that, outstanding route with a heady start and an exciting crux on P3 (feels 5.9). Definitely belay at the big, grassy ledge at the top of P1, and then combine the 2nd and 3rd pitch (including the 7 roof) into another long second pitch.
Jun 25, 2015
We found a single grey Miura (size 41.5) on top of Bitty Buttress today. The shoe is in good shape, so I don't think it was intentionally left behind. Contact me at 303.909.4559 if it's yours. - Scotty Nelson
Aug 24, 2013
Fun route with interesting features to keep you on your toes (literally, just the tips of your toes in some parts). Can be done in two pitches with a 70m rope. First pitch to the large ledge (or a bit higher if ya don't want to belay on the super cushy block). Second pitch should end at a large boulder atop the crag where anchor placements are straightforward. 5.8+ first? 5.9- third? let's even it out and call the route a 5.9. For the first pitch, remind yourself that it isn't okay to fail. Because in this case you may end up with a branch up your bum. As always, watch out for ground eels on the approach....
Jun 16, 2012
Awesome route! Got me excited about climbing trad again in BC. I though some moves on P1 were just as exciting as the P3 crux.
May 23, 2012
Jan 21. Climbed BB in 60 degree temps, sunny, slight breeze, perfect Saturday. We were the only ones at the crag. The start of pitch 1 is tough to protect, but I did not find it to be a R route. The crux of the first pitch, for me, was the small roof near the top of the. You can cheat out to the left on the slab, but the straight up move is nice. Pitch 2 was ok. Pitch 3 protects well. Commit to the moves you see, it's 5.8+ or 9- (whatever). The holds are there. Cheers, Prod.
Jan 22, 2012
Here's another recommendation. Climb Bitty Buttress, then walk uphill a ways, and climb On Ballet on upper Blob Rock. This gives you 6 pitches of nice trad 5.8 and 5.9. I think On Ballet is about the same level of difficulty as Bitty Buttress, and the quality of climbing is also similar. Pitch 2 of On Ballet is a wee bit run out, but if you're comfortable with Bitty Buttress it won't be a problem, since there are also a few wee runouts on BB.
Oct 31, 2008
Climb this route, and then hike over and do "The Young and the Rackless" for an extremely fun day. Three fine pitches, 100 yards of scrambling, and 3 more fine pitches. Bitty Buttress is mentally more challenging, but the moves on Y and R are slightly harder. A great warmup for the season if you have been lounging on the couch for a few months. Or if you have out of town visitors, a great way to introduce them to life in Colorado. One of my favorite days in Boulder Canyon.
Aug 4, 2008
The route description doesn't mention the descent, so here's one way to go. At the top of P3 under the small roof with the 5.7 crack in it, move carefully to the left. With the exposure, you'll almost want to try and squeeze on by on this ledge, but you're better off hanging your body off the edge and just keeping your hands at that level. Look down the steep wall and locate some footholds to allow you to get your body in a better position. The big gear you brought will protect the traverse nicely. Keep your hands level with the ledge, getting jams and face holds as you go. A ramp will start to reach up below you and you can eventually get onto it and scramble to the large, grassy ledge with a dead tree. Build an anchor here to belay your second across the traverse. You won't be able to talk to your second unless you move all the way to the edge looking back. We did this exit today while it was lightly raining and we were really glad to have pro in. Right where the dead tree is, climb up the rocks and keep to the left. You'll see a clean slab that goes to the summit, but if you keep left you'll better access the large ledge system that gets you down into the gully between Bitty Buttress and the next formation over. Note the various bolted sport routes on the steep, clean wall in the gully on your way down. The start of the route is essentially an arete in case you can't see that in the photos. There is a large, dead tree directly under the arete. As some others mentioned, you can stand on it to start the route. When you get to the top of P1, move around to the right and then up again until you can see the dihedral that starts the second pitch. This gets you in a better position to belay that. If you belay down lower to make it easier to talk to your second on P1, the rope will be having to turn a corner for belaying P2. Plus, the belay up here is really flat and cush. Two large cracks intersect where you sit that will take large cams and your leg as added insurance.
Jul 28, 2007
This route has a very nice direct line, although one can never really see the whole route until you get on it. Hats off, once again, to the good ole boys that sniffed out this snoopster. Standard rack with some extra smaller and possibly off set camming devices for the 3rd pitch crux. Exciting and enjoyable.
Oct 1, 2006
Never climbed it with the bolts...or when there were .75 Tech Friends or black Aliens. It was a great route to take dates on. Sure miss that baby-angle at the crux, though.
Sep 15, 2006
With H. McIntypre 5/21/06. Rossiter guidebook topo suggests a start in the 'Orange Dihedral' and an airy but easy traverse about 40 feet up. We climbed P1 this way and found the pro to be adequate and the traverse fun. P2 start is bouldery. A direct line can be liebacked on the upper part of this pitch and is harder (and more fun) than the 5.6 advertised in the guidebook. P3 follows a flake (didn't look like a 'dihedral' to me). Crux sequence is balancy, a bit subtle, and solid 5.8; take a moment to work it out. Didn't look like the route has seen all that much traffic this spring, maybe it's the long (for Boulder Canyon) approach. No chalk was visible the day we climbed and it had kind of a 'wild' feel to it.
May 22, 2006
One move wonder. The belay at the top of P2 is sweet, P3 has 4 cool moves leading up to a fun crux move. Won't do again.
Aug 19, 2005
Very quality route, I didn't see the chopped bolts that everyone talked about though. Anyway, I thought the crux was on P1 right at the top on the face. I must have been off route or something because I had to transition to another crack from left to right and that move was much more difficult than the crux on P3. Ron Olsen mentioned above that "the protection is adequate but not ideal" which I found to be perfectly accurate on P1. I felt the crux on P3 was pretty easy. I put in a purple Alien right before the crack ran out and it fits bomber. I tired to put in a blue alien above that but it was just a waste of time as I am certain it wouldn't have held had I pitched off. I was also able to place many times below the purple Alien so the gear protection is pretty good on P3. You just have to suck it up at the crux and climb through; afterall you're only a few feet above your last piece so it's no big deal. A very good climb!
Nov 2, 2004
Thank you to whomever chopped the bolts.
Oct 27, 2004
No consensus? Well, then I'll cast my vote. I'm glad the bolts are gone, though it doesn't make up for them being there in the first place. After all, the holes remain, no matter how anyone tries to camouflage them. I was annoyed when I saw them last spring. I don't think I even clipped them because they are in a lousy location - they'd just have added drag for belaying up my partner. This route has everything you could want in a moderate trad climb -- great position, fun moves, solid rock, beautiful views, and a couple of moderate runouts to keep you focused. I have no idea why someone saw fit to drill a couple of holes into the middle of it. The bolts, and now the holes, serve only to eliminate the pleasant illusion that you were the first one there, with no significant benefit to safety. Chopping them partially restores the route.
Oct 26, 2004
I have climbed this route with and without the bolts. I have also used the bolts, but even if they were there I would not use them again because of the bad location when starting the second pitch. I am glad the bolts are gone. This is a unique and incredible natural line for the grade. Very Fun.
Oct 26, 2004
AC:I see Darren Mabe answered the chopped/removed question for you. Looks like neither happened. Occam's Razor is a crappy concept touted by those who wish to forward their over-simplied suggestions to entertain personal indulgences and to push private agendas. Properly applied to to this situation, it would say that some other random climber pounded the bolts in, not that I did it on my way out of town to Indian Creek last weekend. Properly applied to your assertion here, it would say that you must be anonymously grinding a personal axe since you have no real knowledge of the situation. Or you can break free of this O.R. crap and look at it more logically. People have a need for a visible enemy. They like to know who they are fighting, so you blame the situation on me so that you are not fighting an invisible foe. Makes you feel better regardless doesn't it. I don't like the old "someone must hang" mentality though. I think you better get some facts first. But I hope you don't get any, I like watching you suffer the unknown.
Oct 26, 2004
I was up there on Sunday. The hangers were already removed and the studs pounded back in, as if it really matters. I was ready to remove them anyway if they were still there when I did the climb. This didn't need a majority consensus. The bolts were not necessary, were not even arranged for a rap anchor (vertical pattern, no chains/rap-rings), at a height more than 30m, and the normal belay is 15 feet higher on a grassy ledge with bomber gear. I shouldn't be wasting my arthritic fingers even typing all of this, the issue is simple: the anchors served no purpose on a multipitch trad climb that has been established probably about 40 years ago. So, what is the argument in the first place?
Oct 26, 2004
As you know Tony, "chopped" is a figure of speech. Were the bolts actually CHOPPED or were they REMOVED and the holes filled/camouflaged? In any event, chopping them would be a nice way for a bolt-remover to cover his tracks? Maybe the bolt-remover was under a time crunch. Maybe they were on their way out of town. I'm not accusing anyone, but I am familiar with Occam's Razor. Occam's Razor: A sort of credibility test that holds that all things being equal, the simplest reasonable explanation for a phenomenon is probably the right one.
Oct 26, 2004
Man, I hate to get in the middle of this, but, "Judging from the few comments that were posted about these bolts, the majority of the community seems to agree, there isn't a home for bolts on Bitty Buttress" A total of 4 people commented. (I'm ignoring the AC) I don't think this constitutes a majority of the community. Scott and Shad: pro-removalRon: appears neutralStefan: slightly in favor of keeping them. However, since a "majority consensus" obviously did not exist to add the bolts in the first place, it seems appropriate that a "majority consensus" was not needed to remove them.
Oct 26, 2004
Hi Ron, Why didn't you ask me personally if I chopped the bolts on Bitty? We've already discussed that. Now here I am, back from the desert (Yes, I've been GONE) and I find myself called to question for this. I think my M.O. has already been well established that I don't *CHOP* anything, so I'm surprised I've been so accused.
Oct 26, 2004
I [didn't] chop the bolts, but I am glad to hear that they have been removed. I was actually hoping that whoever marred the route would speak up, but that [didn't] happen either. Thanks to whoever did this communtiy service. Judging from the few comments that were posted about these bolts, the majority of the community seems to agree, there [isn't] a home for bolts on Bitty Buttress.
Oct 25, 2004
The belay bolts at the top of the first pitch have been chopped, some time in the past ten days. Anyone care to take credit for this? Shad? Tony?
Oct 23, 2004
[I'm] surprised that you [didn't] mind the bolts, [Stefan], since you refused to clip the bolts on the [Dominator] at the [Avalon] (short, now cleaned, good but not a three star route), which seems less of an issue to me than adding bolts on a 40 yr old 3-star classic in the same canyon. If these bolts are for a sport climb, the author of that sport climb should have had the respect for the hardmen that led these pitches in 1964 with leather boots and pitons and probably a rope tied around their waist, and placed the bolts off to the side of the existing climb. These bolts are right in line with the climbing on [Bitty Buttress], except for that the better belay is up another few feet on a comfy grassy ledge. I guess if you need the killer photo op to look down and shoot pics of your second you should belay from these bolts, but i would think you could even get gear on this ledge if you wanted to. Besides the fact that the bolts were added (and if the bolter can vouch that Pat A. said go for it, [I'll] shut up), they [don't] have rings to rap on. Plus, who carries two ropes up this kind of climb, except a party of three? What seems likely to happen is that an inexperienced party would think they are finished with what probably seemed a spicy 5.8 pitch, decide there is a second anchor below since they [don't] see an obvious 2nd pitch and then rap into oblivion since you would need two ropes to get down. So in my opinion the bolts are not only unsightly and unnecessary, and possibly disrespectful, but they may serve to add further danger to the route.
Oct 12, 2004
They are right at the top of the first pitch of BB. The bolts are on a small (~1-2') ledge on your left, not the huge ledge below the 1st move of P2. I would guess that they were placed for BB, and not the sport climb on the left, but I have not done the sport climb. They were there sometime back in April or May when I last did this climb. You can't even see them until you are standing at the ledge, and they're actually placed quite conveniently for belaying up the second. I had done this climb 2-3x previously, and I didn't feel they changed the nature of the climb itself. However, I will agree that they serve purely as a convenience anchor.
Oct 12, 2004
Are the new bolts on Bitty Buttress (BB) proper or on the newish sport route to the left? I'm assuming the latter; that would be really bad if somebody reto-bolted this classic trad line.
Oct 12, 2004
I agree about the bolts. They are totally unnecessary. I'm usually not one to be offended by bolts, but these should be removed.
Oct 12, 2004
After 40 years with no one putting the drill to this climb, the best 5.8 in Boulder Canyon, why did someone deem it necessary to drill two bolts next to decent cracks? If I routinely carried a crowbar, there wouldn't be anymore bolts. You should be embarrassed.
Oct 11, 2004
There is a 2-bolt anchor atop the first pitch that wasn't there last year. No rap rings, however.
Jul 4, 2004
You can protect the opening moves with a small cam (1-1.5cm). I had my belayer hand it up to me after I got another piece in. Did anyone else find pitch 3 ambiguous? I've done it twice, the "wrong way" both times. The first time I headed left. It couldn't have been more than 5.7, considering it did it at night with a headlamp (we were delayed by my diabetic partner's hypoglycemia). The second time (yesterday) I headed right because I'd used the cams that would have protected the crux. It felt a full grade harder than pitch 1, so I'll call it 5.9. It also puts you too far right to belay - your partner won't appreciate being poorly protected on the traverse left to the belay ledge. You can link pitches 2 and 3 with a 60m rope - but watch the rope drag and save some cams for the crux.
May 21, 2004
This is an excellent route. Great position. I've led this route once before and it ranks high for best in the canyon for the grade in my book. IMO the first 20' is no harder than (8) with good pro.I would guess this start was harder when the fallen tree wasn't there. Moving left onto the slab in the final 15' of P1 is a bit balancey and runnout.A .5 cam under a hollow flake/undercling was my last placement in that last 10', but its easy climbing. I could see where the start of P2 could be troublesome for some shorter people, but the upper corner in the last 2' felt like the crux on the pitch to me. No harder than (8) though with good pro. P3 is spicy in the last 10'. Fun varied climbing with good placements up to that point.As Ron mentions, a .75 cam is bomber just below the crux. A black alien will fit a foot higher, the blue does not fit.IMO the crux sequence felt (9) moving up and left.
Mar 25, 2004
This route is incredible to do on sunny winter days. It was a no shell or jacket day.Getting off the ground just above the fallen dead tree log feels a bit challenging. After moving six feet up, I found myself moving left to step up a few ledges before traversing back right. The majority of P1 is pure bliss....fun climbing with great gear placements. You just keep moving up and the route will push you to step left out onto the face (near the end of the pitch).Getting off the ledge on the start of P2 can also be challenging if you are short. I have one lay back move with wide leg stemming action before I can grab good holds and feel solid. The rest of P2 is fun and again full of good gear placements. The crux is defnately on P3 just before you top out and if you are a relatively new 5.8 leader bring a rope gun or be super confident on your feet and have great balance. I want to follow P3 one more time before leading it as the crux feels like a 5.9 move to me. Enough said, perhaps too much said. Enjoy!
Jan 12, 2004
One comment on the gear: on the third pitch, I get in a #2 Camalot low in the corner, a #.75 Camalot several feet higher, and then a red #1 Lowe ball nut in the thin parallel-sided crack just before the crux. Regarding the approach: I use the gully directly below the rock that starts about 50 yards downstream from the Cob Rock parking area. It is a little loose in spots, but there is a reasonable climber's path all the way up, after an initial scramble past an easy steep rock band. The danger of knocking down loose rocks is minimal, and it's a lot faster than traversing over from the Blob Rock trailhead.
Sep 30, 2003
A wonderful, thought-provoking climb with adequate, but less-than-perfect pro on the first and third pitches. An optional fourth pitch, up a 5.7 overhang directly above the third belay, is highly recommended. Short but fun. Run out the rope and belay near the top of the summit slabs. Tag the summit of Bitty Buttress on your way to the descent gully.
Sep 30, 2003
There's a giant nest on the far far right of the ledge at the top of the first pitch. It's very visible if you walk off from the top of the route around to the East (towards Boulder) and down a gully (the second inviting gully, the first one is a cliff).
Dec 16, 2002
Usually not one to make comments about routes, but... There's a sweet #10-ish stopper placement 5-10 feet up, several places for small nuts/micro cams near the dihedral the next 5-10 (ok, some of these are a little shady...), and big block to sling 5-10 feet aout the above mentioned gear. R? nah. Just sporty.dave brannon
Dec 15, 2002
Let's call a spade a spade! Both the opening 20ft. and the final moves are 5.9 and R to boot...
Dec 14, 2002
A perfect #1 Camalot made the crux seem protected. This has to be my favorite 5.8 in Boulder Canyon. The first time I did it, I got juked and lost the toss for the first lead. Dave hollered down "it's 5.9 sport climbing with no bolts." After returning and leading it all, I'd agree, splendid.
Jul 23, 2002
This sunny route has some steep and varied moves on it. Leave the big gear at home, most of the pro is finger to thin hands. Extra finger sized cams and the smallest tricams are useful. The descent is a walk off to the west along a 3rd class ledge system.
May 1, 2002
A climb I have done many times, and it always gives me a thrill moving through that crux. Great lunch spot on the small ledge, just before the crux.
Dec 5, 2001
This is one of the best, if not THE best route in Boulder canyon that Ive climbed. 3 sustained, steep, exposed and FUN pitches.....half face and half crack....I wouldn call the 3rd pitch a dihedral (as Rossiters book says) but a flake/finger crack that peeters out with the awesome balancy crux above the crack......GREAT Route....Highly recommended....
Jan 1, 2001
- Buzz, The
I love how all strong climbers compare everything to Rifle, which is kinda bs because Rifle is known for being funky, sandbagged, hard to read sequences and being just plain weird. Remember you're climbing in Boulder Canyon, home of soft, straightforward climbing. It seems stupid to compare the two. Maybe we should compare all of BC to The Gunks, in that case this route is only 5.10.
Oct 15, 2013
I'd like to consider myself a solid 5.13 climber having put down five different 5.13s within a five week period just before getting on this route. I got shut down hard at the crux of this route. I was also not impressed by the quality of the route. The moves were awkward, holds were sharp, and some of the feet were a slippery type granite. Some of the holds were moist from a recent rain, I will have to go back and revisit it in drier and colder conditions. Either way, Lorax and Rise and Shine deserve a lot more attention than this route in my opinion. On the other hand, the wall that the Buzz is on is very inspiring and impressive looking down on it from high up in the gully. Very striking and photogenic for sure....
Jul 11, 2012
Sorry, AC from 71.208.46.17, but I sent the Buzz 2nd try on Thursday 9/22, and scored a crappy bail biner in the process. Post back when you're ready to not make a fool of yourself. Since you are curious about the grade, this route is easier than both Hang 'em High and I'm Not a Philistine, both Rifle 12c, and about the same overall difficulty as Movement of Fear. Go get on In Your Face or Beer Run to see what real 12+ and 13- routes feel like. Sound credible enough?
Sep 26, 2005
Hmmm, 12c especially if you bail before the crux even starts -- you may want to redpoint first, and remove your bail biner -- would make for a move credible statement...
Sep 24, 2005
Beautiful climb. 12c at Rifle.
Sep 23, 2005
I have sent The Buzz, but I haven't put away Vasodilator yet. In my opinion, Vasodilator is a bit more difficult, because it is relentlessly hard from top to bottom. The crux of The Buzz may be a tad harder than any of the moves on Vasodilator (although the egg-like rounded arete at the end of Vaso is pretty sick), but the climbing on either side of the crux is only 12a. So you only have to do hard moves for about 8 feet. Vasodilator is super continuous and pumpy - more hard climbing for sure.
Sep 27, 2002
In my opinion, Vasodilator is the best .13a pitch in Boulder Canyon, although I have not climbed every .13a there...
Sep 27, 2002
Is this an easier or harder send compared to Vasodilator -- has anyone redpointed both? Which is the better 13a project to work?
Sep 27, 2002
- Creeping Obscurity
- Electricity
The anchor at the top of the first pitch was upgraded last weekend courtesy of Climbing Magazine and the Anchor Replacement Initiative. The old very manky webbing is gone and chain and rings are now in place.
Jan 23, 2009
- Holy Ascension
- Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye
- Jaguary
The D'Antonio guide shows an anchor above this climb, but one does not exist.
Nov 9, 2013
- Jam Left
There is no bolt anchor for this route or to its immediate left. You can easily make a gear anchor, and there is a large block you can sling. The D'Antonio guide shows there is an anchor that is not there. The only bolt anchor is above Razor Hein Stick.
Nov 9, 2013
I don't think there is an anchor for this route.
Nov 2, 2009
10a, one star for me.
Nov 26, 2006
- Jitters, The
There is a more pleasant and easier variation at the start coming in from the left side face and getting established on route at the third bolt. Pre-clip bolts 1 and 2 before starting. The overall rating does not change, as the technical crux is after the 5th bolt.
Oct 19, 2016
Beta: Skip the 6th bolt and pull straight onto the slab above the 5th bolt. The 6th bolt is poorly located and guides you on a contrived yet harder sequence pulling onto the slab out left. Now that the route has been extended out the bulge at the finish, bring a couple of long draws as well.
Jun 9, 2006
- Lorax, The
This is one of the best sport climbs in Boulder Canyon that I have done; super steep, sustained, and challenging, not to mention impressive looking. The start free of the "glue bridge" entails one of the shittiest finger locks you should ever hope to grab, the middle features a cryptic hand jam to sloper sequence, and the finish is climatic, with a wild reach to the lip of the roof like feature that the Lorax ascends. The 12a to the left makes a good warm up and is classic in its own right. As an added bonus, you get to commune with the mountain pigeons that live in the chimney!
Nov 27, 2012
Good to hear.
Nov 25, 2010
I ran into a well-known local climber the other day in the Blob area who claimed that he had just removed the glue feature from the starting crack/seam. My guess is that it is now a bit harder.
Nov 23, 2010
The glue should go. It's a deliberately created hold that doesn't appear to be necessary. Until it's cleaned up, it's an AO route.
Nov 6, 2006
What's the story with the cement/glue "bridge" feature in the crack between bolts 3 and 4 (2nd and 3rd off the ledge) at the first crux? I definitely don't see any purpose for it except to improve a horrendously bad finger lock.
Jun 9, 2006
- Milk the Quartz for Pints
- Moby Dike
- Peach Monkey
- Peapod
- Return To Sender
My first try on Return to Sender left me with the following impression. P1 is 5.8 to a dirty corner that involves a somewhat dangerous "behind your back" clip that transitions you to the next slab after one or two steep moves on very questionable rock. From here, make easy moves on loose, dirty rock (careful not to pull anything down and kill somebody) and encounter one move of 5.11a followed by low angle 5.7 or 5.8 slab to the first set of anchors. P2 features a nice variety of "snappy" "hollow" crimpers and flakes all poised brilliantly on a Volkswagen-sized block that looks like it could break away from the wall entirely with the right amount of conviction. The crux will catch your attention indeed, not so much by the "wild move" that has been advertised but more so by the sloping ledge that you may or may not strike if you happen to miss. A few more awkward throws gets you to the final set of anchors which consequently are guarded fabulously by a choice selection of football to microwave size blocks. Again, be careful not to pull anything down and kill somebody. Enjoy!
Nov 28, 2009
My first try on Return to Sender left me with the following impression. P1 is a nifty way to link up two slabs that get you to P2, which would otherwise have a rotten approach. In its own right P1 is a blast and entails some nice thin slabbing with a tough mantle in the link up. It looks like it needs some brushing, but while climbing that seemed insignificant. P2 is the meat, and I won't give anything away. It has two cruxes, as Mark indicated. The lower crux will be very height dependent. I hung off the jug at the end of the first crux and could just graze my toe on the spot used to launch the move. If you are 6' 5", it might feel 5.10, if you are 5' 7" it would feel like 5.14. There are two solutions, but the short person variation will certainly come at higher than 5.12a/b. The second crux is what it is, either you do it or you don't. It's a nifty and very technical dyno, a brief, perfect althletic moment (or perhaps several attempts at a brief, perfect athletic moment). Nice addition. Solid rock. Well protected. And it gets good early sun.
Jan 3, 2004
- Reveille
Very fun route and great warm up. You really only need a few pieces, medium offset master cams are helpful. 5.10.
Nov 19, 2013
The trad part of this pitch has some great rests, unlike most of the climbs on this section of the wall. Some of the placements are a little funky, but there's more gear than appears from the ground. I was able to sew it up. Great pitch! Unusual moves through the bolted section, with some great climbing on the steep finish. Strenuous to actually clip the anchor.
Jan 30, 2011
- Right Crack or Last Crack (aka Mirage?)
This route has great hand jams interspersed with thinner off fingers-size crack jams. The route is fun and worth doing.
Dec 20, 2016
Fun route and worth doing if you are in the area. Unfortunately, ends in a dirty thin corner that detracts from the climb overall. NO ANCHOR even though the book indicates one - downclimb low 5th class to the west (or downlead). There are two cold shuts about 30 feet west of the route, but easier to just downclimb.
May 31, 2016
Rodger is incorrect. Erickson's book is referring to Mirage on The Short Cliff with Three Cracks, below Bitty Buttress. This is Right Crack. It was also called Last Crack on the Right in Boulder Climbs North, but the FA is unknown.
Jul 29, 2015
The correct name for this climb is: Mirage, 5.9 according to the old Erickson guide. FA: Dan Hare and Allen Bradley, in 1979. I rated it as a 5.9+ when I climbed it back in the mid 1980s. I didn't think it was a 10 then....
Dec 4, 2011
- Rise and Shine
I would give this climb 3 starts if it weren't for the rotten rock at the 2nd-4th clips. Careful, but the upper section is great and a little sustained.
Nov 3, 2014
Definitely fun climbing and a great route. Certainly tricky moving off the ledge and onto the upper headwall. Great fun. Be very careful of a loose, microwave-sized, loose block in the lower dihedral. It's a death block for sure and used as an obvious hand hold and foot placement as you moved past. Climb with caution.... The upper headwall is enjoyable face climbing with a fin finish liebacking a slanting crack in the ceiling....
Jul 11, 2012
Excellent climb. Very well bolted, and no clips are hard to make. In late May, the climb gets some morning shade from the Lorax roof, but the belay alcove is hot. Shade by 1 pm. For rope drag, consider clipping the first bolt on the regular (not direct) start with a long runner, then move over to the direct start and clip the third bolt with a long runner (i.e. skip the second bolt on the non-direct start). This keeps your rope off the rock. The move off the ledge (6th bolt) is probably the thinnest, but the climbing doesn't really let up after that. Consider differentially resting your right hand (sacrifice the left a little), to save for the top, where it's still pumpy. Also, you can move right while still below the top bolt then clip from the right, rather than working up the rounded L-facing arete. Otherwise, you have to downclimb a few moves to go right to the anchors anyway.
May 30, 2012
If it weren't for the crappy rock and blocky, awkward climbing down low ,this would be a 3 star route. It's worth the time though.
Oct 16, 2011
This may be the best 12a in Boulder Canyon, reminiscent of limestone climbing if you can believe it. And honest at the grade too. I thought the crux, unquestionably, was getting started on the upper face at bolt #6. The upper part is very pumpy featuring a burly match on a sloping horn... maybe a redpoint crux for some, but not as technically difficult as lower down. Watch out for some bad rock in the initial corner. The trad variation to the upper part is excellent, and worthy of 3 stars as well.
Aug 3, 2005
- South
This route has potential but needs some major gardening. The route follows the dihedral but has lots of bushes and dirt. The line is very aestethic though. We did a bit of pruning just to get up it but it needs more work to earn the star it gets in Bob D'antino's book. I agree with his 5.8 rating. The second pitch (the one shared with A's Jax) is much cleaner and has a nice roof/chimney that looks much harder than it is.
Jul 25, 2012
- Spins, The
- Treetop Landing
You can use the cold shut anchor on Razor Hein Stick to get down.
Nov 9, 2013
- Voices Carry
Climbs lacking loose debris, whether rock or lichen, haven't necessarily been climbed previously. Those may be composed of a more resistant rock and/or lie in areas more exposed to wind and sun. Conversely, lichen-infested climbs that have lots of loose rock might have been climbed previously. I have left most of my many shaggy passages in original condition because I chose not to chalk, clean, brush, or trundle, although I have moved or tossed rocks that threatened my companions. A subsequent visitor may assume that s/he is doing a first ascent.
Nov 25, 2015
- Welcome Home
- Black Widow Slab
- Bands of Gold
A fun (mostly trad) 5.10 variation can be climbed in the dihedral, a few feet to the right of the first four bolts. Continue up to the fifth bolt, staying to the right of the 11d section. Clip more bolts and place more gear, as you reach back left to the upper part of Bands and climb 5.10 to its anchors.
Nov 1, 2013
I found this climb and loved it, it has a lot for a moderate climb - crimps, slaps, slopes, heels, cracks, aretes, and much much more - but I agree with the above mentioned statement. Whomever bolted this route needs to do the rest of the climbing world a favor and never bolt again. My favorite part is the bolt that was placed too deeply and is simply sitting in the face with no anchor whatsoever - thank you for not actually putting an anchor on that bolt by the way - but the route is a very interesting climb. Altogether, the landing is stellar, the climb is in the shade and bolts 5-14 are part of an amazing climb. Glad I found it, if it wasn't for the bolting, I would have rated this a 2 star problem.
Aug 12, 2011
I found this to be the most poorly bolted (dangerous) sport climb I've done in Boulder Canyon. At the bottom, the bolts are so close you might z-clip, then it's "adventure sport climbing" through plants, trees, loose rock, and hard to reach bolt hangers above the first big ledge. The upper section of this pitch is extremely dirty and the anchors are positioned in a way that causes continuous strain on the rope. The overall line is very nice however and a few pieces of supplemental gear (and a wire brush) might make this climb more enjoyable.
Jul 12, 2011
- Black Widow Recess
- Caught in the Web
Tough climb. Even without the right-shoulder-dislocating, V-Gnar-Gnar crux getting into the corner, this thing would still be solid 5.12. One of the hardest cruxes on a 5.12 around Boulder maybe a longer wingspan helps?
May 19, 2013
I redpointed this in the Fall of 2008 just before my partner Kaelen Williams did. He redpointed both "Resinator" (5.12d) and "Caught In The Web" that day. As for me, it is my second day on this route in 2008. I had tried the route years before that. This route has some sustained, technical, vertical to overhung climbing on it. I enjoyed the unusual nature of the climb. It was very challenging. There are some things that detract from its quality. The belay zone in the talus is not great. Lowering off the bottom 20 feet sends you down through bushes, unless you swing left and come down the start of the route. The 5th and 7th bolts are higher than they need to be. Put a long Petzl quickdraw on the 5th bolt but not a long sling. I still have a small battle scar on my bicep where the biner and rope pinched my skin when a weighted the rope at this bolt with a long sling on it. The 7th bolt can be clipped with the left hand on the crystal knob if you double draw it. Otherwise, skip the bolt or clip it past the final crux up the diagonal ramp corner.
Feb 24, 2011
Definitely hard for .12c. I don't think this was really anything like Flying Beast. Way more technical, not as much power endurance. You can get a good stem rest before exiting the dihedral.
Sep 26, 2008
This thing is brutal -- a very shouldery press move after the 4th bolt is the crux but the next 15 feet remain hard. Powerful route...
Jul 13, 2008
You guys are too modest: this is stout even for 12c; it's similar in difficulty and feel to Flying Beast on Easter Rock. The cross over into the corner at the fourth bolt is brutal (the start of the business) and then it's sustained almost to the end. It may seem odd to give beta for the 5.6 approach to a 12c, but you'll be a lot safer going to the first [bolt] through the bushes on the right than trying to climb in from the left. Great job. Thanks.
Jun 26, 2005
- Center
- Consilience
A stellar slab route. Definitely "well" bolted. Would be quite a bit more fun if the bolting was a bit spicier...but very fun. I found it easier than Gyromancy, and would suggest a grade of no harder than 5.11a.
Jul 26, 2015
Great route. Thanks, Vaino, for doing such a fine job bolting & cleaning. That said, shame on Bob D'Antonio for putting it in his Boulder Canyon guidebook that you can get down this climb with a 60 meter rope & to Ron Olsen for doing so in this post. Please refer to my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II (2005)" that states bring a 70 meter rope or two ropes to descend. A guidebook writer shouldn't given a pass by the climbing community or industry for such a dangerous error. So here is a trick to get down this route with a 60 meter rope. Anchor in at the top anchor & be taken off belay. Pull the rope up through all the protection bolts & drop it back to the ground. Have your belayer put you back on belay. Make sure they put a knot in the end of the rope. As you are lowered, the belayer can walk left uphill so they are standing on higher ground. This should solve the problem & allow you to lower to the ground.
May 5, 2015
This route is excellent, with great rock, great moves, and interesting holds. Some shenanigans were required to lower with a 60m rope.
Sep 9, 2013
Fantastic line. I think this feels more like 11d than 11a/b. Felt harder than almost all of the 11s I've done at Rifle or in Boulder Canyon.
Sep 8, 2013
Really good route. Overall more sustained than The Scientist over at Plotinus, but the actual crux is significantly easier. Being a slab, you can pretty much rest anywhere on it, so overall I would say this is easier than The Scientist. Nice, long route with good rock quality and continuous climbing.
Jul 18, 2012
60 m rope puts you like 20' off the ground when lowering.... Grade seems good-ish to me..?
Sep 19, 2010
I hate to sound like I'm ragging on Boulder Canyon grades. I usually agree with them, and besides, I expect each area (and climber) to have their own biases one way or another. But, compared to the slabs I've done in JTree, Squamish and the Valley, I think this route is way over graded. It's still a fun route though.
Nov 5, 2008
An awesome pitch! One of the best in Boulder Canyon at the rating. I agree with the 11b/c for onsight. A little easier once you know where the secret holds are.
Sep 28, 2008
Superb, sustained slab climbing. The crux is at least .11a and probably .11b. If you plan on climbing Kate Moss as well as Consilience, a 70m rope (or two 60s) is mandatory. Lowering from Consilience takes 105' -110' of rope; lowering from Kate Moss takes about 115'.
Aug 8, 2005
Very fun route and an interesting slab climb. D'Antonio is the FA Meister!! Thanks for this one Bob! I was surprised to see so many excellent climbers rating this 11 and not even easy 11. Maybe I am off here but it makes me think I was on the wrong route ... To offer some benchmark comparisons for perspective. > Crux of Aerospace in Eldo rated 11b, > last Pitch of Doub Griffith rated 11b, > 1st pitch of Athletes Feat rated 11a, > 1st pitch of Country Club rated 11c, > Naked Edge Don't get me wrong. I'm not dissing the route, at all, because it is great climbing and really fun. A great addition by Bob, Vanio & Moe all of whom can can climb way harder than this. However nothing on this route feels even close to as hard as any single crux on the comparison routes I listed. That's just my opinion in trying to bring some perspective to some route ratings in Bolter Canyon which many times seems to be on some other scale than the US Yosemite Decimal System when it comes to ratings on many of the bolted routes. Line this up next to slab routes else where in the USA rated 11 and I don't think it compares. Enjoy, but watch out when lowering off this one as a 200 foot rope is not quite long enough to get you all the way down!!!
Jun 15, 2005
Fantastic climb - the midsection is reminiscent of the second pitch of Earth Voyage in Dream - delicate diagonal. We predict though that we'll hear soon about someone decking off of this line - 60m given the variability in lengths of 60m cords isn't necessarily sufficient - 70m better! Kate Moss and the neighbor to the right are worthy warmups as well.
Sep 11, 2004
A stellar climb; probably the best sport route I've done in Boulder Canyon. Continuously interesting climbing from bottom to top, with many 5.10 moves and several spots of 5.11. The route was quite clean, with no moss or lichen in evidence. The move to the first bolt wasn't too bad; I didn't feel the need for a stick clip. A 70m rope works well, allowing you to lower or rappel with a few feet of rope to spare.
Aug 26, 2004
There may be only one other slab climb better than this in Boulder Canyon. That would be, in my opinion, Bearcat Goes to Hollywood. We had rope shortage with 60 meters, and had to leave a biner. It was worth it. Finding the route is straightforward. It is not very far up the gully between Black Widow and Vampire. The picture on the route description makes its location obvious. There is another route just to the left (Kate Moss?) that is unappealing in appearance.
Jun 7, 2004
From talking to BobD on the day he put this up, I know that the FA date was August 26, 2003, not January 1, 2002. Also, somehow the cliff got left out here. According to what Bob told me, this route is on the extreme left side of the Black Widow Slab, sorta in the gully area between Black Widow and Vampire, or at least that's how I understood what Bob said. This route is clearly visible from Blood Doll on Vampire. I'm looking forward to trying it, it sounds cool. BobL
Aug 29, 2003
- Dracula
Great route. The bolts could use a refresh as the post crux bolt is a spinner, and most of the hangers have an aged look. It's a mix of wedges and sleeves. The anchor could use a make over too as it's sporting webbing now w/ perma biners. A few critical large holds on the route are slathered in glue which detracts from things a bit.
Jul 5, 2016
This is a link to a video of a couple of time lapses I took on the route. youtu.be/090SUfyj_zs
Oct 7, 2014
Good rock, great clipping stances, awesome movement. I don't think it necessarily deserves 4-stars, but I think 3.5 would be appropriate. The only drawback is that the crux is over all too soon.... Probably a bit harder for shorter folks, but I guess shorties have done it quite easily in the past? Some long draws are nice.
May 6, 2014
Nice!
Sep 11, 2013
Yes, my girlfriend is 5'1" and did that move completely static. She actually flashed the route fairly easy after watching me. We constantly get on routes where there is a "height" dependent move, and she always figures out a way to do it, usually with just higher feet than most people will use. I did The Juice (12d) last year with a crux I was told couldn't be done unless you're over 6' tall. I'm 5'7" and did the move really easily with some uber high feet. Power to the short people!
Sep 11, 2013
(Big thanks to Chris for sending me some beta to read during my bus commute!) Dracula is a really fun route, although if you don't have really long arms, I could see the last move of the crux as being a bit frustrating. My arms were fortunately just long enough to keep it from being too heinous. I would love to watch a really good, smaller climber do this route - it would probably be an impressive display. Couple quick notes: this route makes a good, quick, after work project - there are no tweaky moves, so you don't need a warmup route. The first half is easy and slabby but still really nice climbing. You will want a 12" draw on the 2nd bolt on the headwall, otherwise the rope wants to grind over a fairly sharp edge as you traverse up and right. Also, don't be discouraged if you struggle on your first attempt. It would be a tricky onsight, but once you dial a couple things in, the climbing just comes together really nicely. The last couple bolts seemed like they were placed a bit higher than I wanted, but with some patience, it works out. Some of the bolts seemed kind of old. Not sure if it was the lack of washers that gave me that impression? Anyway, do this route - it is pretty sweet.
Jun 26, 2013
I really enjoyed this. My first 12b and totally safe and easy to work on.
May 27, 2013
5.9 slab, to 5.11 cross through gastons, to cryptic crux, to slightly insecure, 10+, hanging arete. Well-protected. Super fun.
Sep 30, 2011
- F**k You
Tricky route to onsight but well worth the effort to do so. Not a great route to push the grade on in my opinion as a groundfall is possible if you blow the hardest (yeah, the hardest moves are off the ground) moves of the route getting to the first bolt. Being tall is helpful and footwork is key higher up. Good crack moves to finish the route as well.
Jun 28, 2014
Great variety and fun moves. I felt the crux was higher. Traversing out past the chalky, sloping pillar on the final face. Took an excellent whip here! Getting out of the low dihedral at bolt 3 is easy but reach-dependent.
Aug 14, 2013
This is a fun route with a wide variety of moves. Stick-clipping isn't necessary, but not a bad idea. If you're tall enough, you don't have to mess around with the jugs below and can get holds high and levitate your feet. Getting out of the dihedral after the second bolt is probably the crux. The dihedral can be stemmed or the dihedral's left arete laybacked. The arete/face above requires some thought.
Sep 1, 2009
As for the naming of this route, [Rolofson] would like you to believe that we named it as some sort of slag about the [Eldo ACE committee (he has had his "moments" with the committee), but this is not the reason we named it "fuck you", it was a spur of the moment joking around while getting "baked" at the base of the route that one of our party uttered the phrase and it stuck. There were more people involved in the establishment of this route than [John] and myself.
Jul 14, 2005
- Far Right, The
- Fire Down Below, The
- Gyromancy
Decent climbing, but I spent more time trying to figure out how to clip the 5th bolt from a decent stance than climbing the rest of the route. Pay attention well in advance, or you can get a little bit hung out to dry (like me).
Sep 19, 2012
Along with Consilience and Kate Moss this climb rounds out a great trio of routes here. One can also rap from the top of Consilience to the anchors on Gyromancy and turn the 70 meter rap into 2 35 meter raps.
Sep 28, 2008
Young Doug...I led this route, and my partner Kevin led its neighbor to the left. Both of us agree that this route was a full number-grade easier. We also both agree that this route was not as hard as Super Slab. Mmmm.
Sep 23, 2005
An excellent pitch. Fun moves, clean rock. Sustained, thoughtful climbing from the fourth bolt to the top. The two-finger pocket is really good!Would be a three-star route if it were twice as long.
Jul 17, 2004
Very good, with several baffling cruxes. Three people did the hard bit at the fourth bolt three different ways, but all were fully engaged higher and wondering what Bob would consider to be a "bad" two finger pocket. This isn't one of Vaino's typcial Mr. Science names... were you going around in circles looking for Divination?
Sep 1, 2003
- Kate Moss
Great climb. It has cleaned up quite well - I don't even remember any moss on route except some easily avoidable on the easy ramp in the middle of climb. Super long and generally sustained except for a short section in the middle. Felt more like consistent 5.9 to me than 5.10 movement...even for BOCAN. 70m just works, but be careful and tie a knot. Thanks to the equipers.
Oct 5, 2017
This is a nice, long and sustained route out of direct sun nearly all the time, a cool alternative in warm weather.
Aug 21, 2017
Climbed this yesterday. It's nice and long. We wanted to summit the whole tower, so I led up above the anchors. You can get a good cam in the undercling above the anchors, but that's pretty much the last good piece. Further up, there's a shitty bolt that I don't trust - maybe an old Star Dryvin that wasn't driven in all the way with the nail bent over. Anyway, even above the bolt, I didn't see gear opportunities so I downclimbed (it looks like there is in the photo, but there isn't). The climbing wasn't too hard, but all the moss and no pro made it feel sketchy. Looks like it could have been cool had I made it all the way to the large, horizontal crack below the roof systems. Anyone tried it? Above Kate Moss on Black Widow Slab in Boulder Canyon.
Sep 14, 2014
I found some climbing shoes at the base of Kate Moss. If they are yours, send me a message. Greg
Jun 23, 2014
There is very little moss on this route. It has cleaned up well. Very consistent climbing with almost no gimmies.
Aug 14, 2013
A very good and long pitch. And a good warm up for the other great climbs here. It seems that this area is somewhat overlooked as the climbs are excellent and the competition for routes is nil. There is a quick link on the 3rd bolt about 30 feet up which allows one to rappel from the anchors and then pull the rope and rap again from the 3rd bolt. It looked like a much better set up for descending could easily be set up by putting a double anchor 3 bolts down from the top and then extending the upper 3 bolts into another 60 meter pitch. Curious since the descent takes away from the quality of the route.
Sep 28, 2008
Excellent 5.8 or maybe 5.9 climbing with good bolting, not too close together and good clipping stances. A very nice, long pitch with great climbing. 70m just gets you off, so pay attention.
Sep 1, 2008
I had a blast on this route. Lots of fun moves, and maybe most of the offending moss is gone now? Whatever. We used a 70-meter rope and still didn't reach the ground -- my partner lowered me to the end of the rope and I untied from about 5 feet up, where there was a good stance.
May 30, 2008
Wasn't that much fun. Go Plotinus Wall if you REALLY want to get on some good .10s. Vaino and Bob hit it on the head over there. Chore Boy and Mr. Sandman are excellent!
Aug 20, 2007
Perhaps a bit of mass hysteria here,unless B and V have a 2nd pitch planned, i'd have left it to the mosses.
Jun 27, 2005
Still a bit dirty, but intricate, varied and sustained. This is a top-notch pitch!
Aug 4, 2004
I was put off going to this climb by all the moss talk. If you have to touch any moss, you have wandered off route. This is a fantastic climb. Probably the best sport route of its grade in the canyon. On a hot afternoon, it is a most pleasant location with a natural swamp cooler nearby. Plus, there are two harder routes at the same location. Bring two ropes, or a real loooooong one.
Jul 19, 2004
Even with the moss, the moves are so good that this is a three-star climb. Sustained, interesting climbing from bottom to top. Bring a 70m rope or two ropes; the pitch is about 130' long.
Jul 17, 2004
What a great route! Excellent, sustained, varied movement over a long pitch. Nice shade for a hot summer day, with a reasonably comfortable belay zone. A 70 meter rope just makes it back down from the anchors. Thanks Vaino and Bob.
Jun 7, 2004
- Mordred
...what Tank said. Fantastic little route. BoCan 4 starz.
Jun 8, 2014
One of the best short, hard routes in the Boulder area. Kind of a boulder problem, albeit a long and classic one on great stone.
May 22, 2011
- Pipe Dreams
If Dracula is 12b, this thing is certainly harder...cool route, but it's a bit weird at the start. The finish is amazing and pumpy if you stay on the face.
Aug 1, 2017
I don't know what hold broke at the 2nd bolt. I was on this climb in Fall 2016. It seems like it's the same hard move with small holds that it always was. I have always climbed it just left of 2nd bolt. Perhaps you were trying it more to the right.
Mar 26, 2017
A key hold broke at the second bolt, making that move left much more difficult.
Aug 23, 2015
Thanks for your comment, Jack. Bob's book is just wrong about climbing the crack on the upper part (pitch 2) of the climb & so is the route description posted on this page of MP. The crack is Bong Session. I have climbed both routes, & I love Pipe Dreams. Please refer to the earlier guidebooks such as Richard Rossiter's or my "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II". The climb ascends the face which has some nice pockets. I really like this part of the route. Yes, the crux is at 2nd bolt. I do prefer to avoid stemming to the mossy dihedral (around 8th bolt), because the face climbing up the seam is so cool. Stemming takes away from the sustained nature of this part of the climb. Yes, you can call it contrived if you like. The nearby dirty corner detracts from the quality, but it is obvious to me that it is off route.
May 22, 2015
The second half of this climb is confusing. From the ledge, I saw three options: 1. climb straight up the bolted face above the ledge; 2. climb the hand crack to the left of the bolts to its own anchor, this is what the guidebook says to do; 3. climb the corner on the right and reach over and clip. The upper part is weird with a lot of options. It might be a better route if it stopped at the first anchor. Also stemming into the corner on the first half is the smart way to climb it, staying on the face the whole time is way contrived. If this route stopped at the first anchor, I still think it would be 12b due to the hard start.
Jul 17, 2013
To clarify this route description, the second section stays just to the right of the wide crack using pockets and face holds that move upwards and right to finish with a thin crack and the anchors. Also, I did the first free ascent after setting this route up. -John Baldwin.
May 1, 2010
- Resonator
This is a nice climb, but if what Matt B says is true, that after you pull the first crux, the line originally finished in the corner at 12d. I think it's quite a bummer someone came and added bolts up the face, we have taken a decent 12d and turned it into a contrived but good 13a (Bo Can has plenty of these climbs already). I have a really hard time forcing myself onto the face when the easiest most obvious line climbs at 12d. Overall, a good climb and pretty steep for Boulder Canyon.
Aug 26, 2014
I agree with the comment that not using the right wall at all bumps this grade to 13a, though it is highly contrived not to use it. According to popular folklore the route was previously rated 12d and was forced right into the corner because there was no bolt on the face to go straight up. Now a bolt is added and we have a great but a bit contrived route.
Aug 25, 2009
Really good route. Felt more like hard .12d than .13a. Has had draws on it for at least two months. What's the deal?
Sep 26, 2008
Great summer route that stays in the shade most of the day. A four-tiered roof followed by a tricky face with a slight run to the chains. A kneepad (right knee) and taping (right hand) is helpful depending on your beta.
Aug 2, 2008
This is a great route. The grade probably drops if you cop a rest (even a shoulder scum) from the right corner before you head into the upper-slab crux.
Jul 27, 2008
- Right Side
- Right Side? aka Bong Session
Thug through the roof at the start and cruise to the top, roof protects well with green c3 (under) and red c3 (after).
Jul 26, 2014
All, I'm wondering what the variation is called? One can either head up the ramp and do the (easier) hand crack, or continue straight up into the offwidth. Anyone know the story? Goat
Aug 29, 2013
This is a worthy route. Big fun and just kinda in your face most of the way. Well worth doing, especailly as a Kor Classic (which I think it is??)!
Sep 17, 2012
I doubt that "Bong Session" is the same route as Kor's "Right Side." (See thread under Black Widow Slab.) None of those old guidebooks is very specific about where "Right Side" really went, although I think those support that "Right Side" starts in the same dihedral where Bands of Gold begins. Chris: What is your evidence?
Apr 5, 2012
This really is a great crack with a variety of sizes throughout. Save a #4 for the upper crack and don't underestimate the start!
Jul 8, 2011
This is a terrific crack climb - maybe one of the best in the canyon. The shift to the right for the top hand crack detracts slightly from the route but otherwise, it's well worth the trip to this wall, not to mention the other nice sport routes to add in.
Aug 10, 2007
For decades this route was known as the Right Side. It was first climbed in 1961 by Kor and Northcutt. It was part of the Black Widow trilogy: Left Side, Center and Right Side. It has been documented as such since 1967 in all of Pat Ament's BC guides and Jim Erickson's classic Rocky Heights. It was graded 5.8 in the first High Over Boulder (1967) and stayed there through the second HOB and through 5.10, the Ament Erickson guide. It was upgraded to 5.9 in Rocky Heights (1980). The name change was initiated in the mid - late '90s, apparently to make it consistent with the stoner theme adopted at the crag. It seems kind of a shame to rename one of the first routes in Boulder Canyon. Hopefully the original name will see a resurgence.
May 27, 2006
- SMERSH
Fun timesplenty of challenge! I woulda been a bit less SMERSHED had I brought doubles of hand-size: #1 and #2 Camalot (Metolius #6 and #7). Watch for licheny footholds up high.
Jun 21, 2014
- Smoke Down
I thought this was a really nice little route. Good variety, and the top looks a little bit intimidating - but it unfolds perfectly.
Sep 19, 2012
I'm not sure that this is a full three star route, but it's certainly worth doing. It's very engaging for how short it is.
Jul 5, 2009
- Specter
Old-school 10d (stout). Some hand-jam pain turning the first (bigger) roof. Good gear; good fun; good times.
May 18, 2013
I have to agree with Chris on this one. Felt pretty hard for 5.10d. Excellent climbing though....
Sep 3, 2012
This seemed hard for 10d, and in comparison to Grandmother's Challenge in Eldo, it seemed very stiff for the grade. Great climb though, as for yesterday's efforts a very humbling experience for me.
Sep 2, 2012
10+ really? Perfect hands to the lip followed by some poor thin hand flares right about the time your feet disappear. Excellent physical climbing. Thanks for the anchors Rich.
Jul 23, 2012
This is a really fun trad route. It climbs much better and more difficult (I thought) that it appears it will. Two roofs take you to a still sustained and tricky overhanging dihedral, after which it eases up considerably for the last 30' to the anchors. Well worth pursuing.
Sep 13, 2010
Did this route today - anchors are good, and don't detract from the trad character of the pitch.
Aug 22, 2010
Hey man, relax. Sounds like you did a good thing. It's nice to hear that you put some thought into it before adding the anchor. Thanks.
Sep 1, 2005
I placed a bolted anchor about 80' up this route after talking to the first ascentionist (Dan Hare) and getting his permission and encouragement. I went and climbed this route a month or two ago (before putting in the anchor) and experienced the annoying lichen encrusted, unprotected, 5.4 bushwhack to the grassy ledge. From the grassy ledge you had to either summit the formation (i.e. several more [pitches] of 5.? bushwhacking) or do a scary 50' downclimb to the top of one of the sport climbs on the right side of the formation. The first 80' feet of this climb is fantastic, and the rest sucks! There are three other trad routes on the crag. One has a bolted rappel station at the top and the other two are obscure and dirty and don't look to have been done since Kor and Northcutt did them in '61. I recognize that these anchors are a change to an existing route. I debated putting them in. I don't agree with putting in bolts to avoid a runout that was done by the first ascentionists or more generally changing the nature of a route to eliminate the boldness that used to be required to complete a route. But I believe this is different. Anyone who can climb the 10d to get to the new anchors, could easily finish the route. This is not about avoiding a significant challenge that is an integral part of the route. I actually placed the anchors as high as feasible to force a bit of runout 5.8/5.9 face climbing before the climbing deteriorated to a dirty slab.This is a convenience anchor. It is easy to argue against convenience anchors, as many have (appropriately) in places like Eldo. But I felt that these anchors are in character with the rest of the crag, and, apparently, so did the first ascenionist. It is obvious that I am a little conflicted about this anchor, as evidenced by this lengthy explanation. I don't like the spread of Sport Park ethics into the rest of the Canyon. If there is significant and valid opposition to these anchors I will remove them myself.
Aug 29, 2005
- Wired
Agree with George's comment above, Matt's description does NOT match the scrappy but clean (no moss) corner just left of Smoke Down.
Sep 16, 2012
I suspect that Matt's 2011 comment, above, refers to the climb that begins in the 5.8+ dihedral that Bands of Gold uses to start. I think the Bands of Gold dihedral is the start of Kor's "Right Side." (See comments under Black Widow Slab.) The route called "Wired" in this database begins farther right and is a 5.10-ish, right-leaning dihedral protected only by an occasional, funky, shallow, thin placement.
Jul 27, 2012
I climbed this route today, and it wasn't much fun. The climbing is very very dirty. We continued 3 pitches to the top of the Black Widow Slab and walked off in between Sleeping Beauty and Black Widow. The climbing is easy on the first pitch, but the gear does suck pretty bad and the moss is plentiful. Barely 1 star, more like 0.5 stars.
Jul 24, 2011
It took tons of work to make this climb somewhat safe. Some very funky looking, difficult to obtain gear. 10- climbing, 11 gear. some fun moves.
Jul 5, 2008
This isn't Right Side.
May 27, 2006
- Blob Rock Area
- Blob Rock
- Central Chimney Area
- Central Chimney
The route is 5.6 for the last pitch and maybe a 10' section of the second pitch. It says on here to bring up to a 4.5" cam. The biggest piece I placed was a #2 Camalot. You could place a 4.5" piece but, it does not seem necessary. I free soloed the 1st pitch. It is quite easy. There are bolt anchors at the top of the 1st and second pitch. The descent starting down from the Erickson's Crack anchor was easy to do with 3 single rope raps.
Nov 13, 2013
I don't know. P3 is fun. P2 is a VERY tight chimney... didn't think it was that fun (probably depends if you like that type of climb or not). I lead P1 and had to convince myself a few times to put pro in... was really easy.
Jul 12, 2009
P2 makes the effort worthwhile--it's a nifty pitch tunneling up through the chimney with good jams, sidepulls and body friction. Pro is good throughout. The leftmost corner/crack on P3 was nice, as is the traverse that follows. Not a super-exciting route, but it's a good tour of the Blob.
Jun 1, 2009
On the last pitch, there are two routes possible, the one to the right is slightly more difficult and is more of a chimney. If you choose the left route, which it appears most do you have to traverse slightly right at the top of the pitch, there is a massive hold which is difficult to spot from below but if you commit you've made it. The previous chimney is also fun and offers the left and right chimney options. This climb is fun but no jewel by any means.
Aug 17, 2006
The start can be done to the R with a short, tricky 5.7 OW flare that, oddly enough, does not require an OW move. With a 60m rope, you can pass the 40ft anchors (of Cold Fusion) & the 165 ft anchors, to reach the 185 ft anchors on P1. It may be more enjoyable to go R on P2 & do P3 of On Ballet.
Aug 25, 2004
First pitch is relatively uneventful. The second pitch is however very fun with some thoughful airy moves and there are a few route variations to choose from. No crowds and due to the rocks high position in the canyon provides really great views. In the evening you are treated with a sunset over the divide. This route is not climbed often so watch out for the sneaky lichen.
Aug 1, 2003
You can continue this climb 2 more short pitches above the "walkoff" ledge to the top of the rock. Certainly has some less continuous sections but has a nice corner finish in the same 5.5-5.7 range.
Jun 14, 2002
Wasn't real impressed with this route. It's ok....but far from great. I don't know why Rossiter gives it a star. P2 and P3 offer a few thoughtful moves for the 5.6 leader...but that's about it. Bolts atop P1 may be a bit of a stretch with a 50m. I stopped to belay 10+ feet short, but it may have streched.
Jun 11, 2002
- Radlands of Infinity, The
Bit scabby, so four stars might be a stretch. Otherwise a classic "Tiny Dancer" affair. It's completely reasonable to climb the route as one pitch (and worthwhile, since the "second" pitch is not trivial). With a 70 meter rope, it's just !barely! possible to lower from the top of the route back to the base. No gear is needed for the belay area, it's expansive and comfortable. A red C3 is nice below the first anchor (seemed like an offset yellow/red X4, or blue/yellow Metolius would be ideal). A #0.3 C4 and/or #0.4 C4 before the first bolt on the "second" pitch. And a #0.75 C4 and #0.5 C4 protect the last 25 feet. No other gear is necessary.
Oct 31, 2017
All the bolts on both pitches have been replaced. 100% of the holes were able to be reused. Thanks to the BCC for the hardware; please support them if you don't already. Note for later: the left bolt on the P2 anchor is mixed metal; the bolt is plated and the hanger/ring is stainless. I'm not sure when this particular bolt was replaced, but it was probably done by Mark Rolofson in the early 2000s when he bolted the project to the left. That bolt will need upgrading long before all the others. The pins were also tapped back in.
Dec 20, 2015
Jason, We (OK, more specifically *I*) broke some holds off when we were on it in 2010.
Mar 16, 2015
I first did this route over 10 years ago and got on it again yesterday. I didn't remember the rock quality coming into question before, but yesterday I was surprised by how many edges flaked off, both for hands and feet. I didn't remember it being friable, but I must have broke a dozen holds yesterday (not that there's much to break on this route). The climbing is still good and hard, but actually after doing it twice yesterday, I'm not convinced more holds won't snap off in the future.
Mar 15, 2015
I tried this thing in stiff shoes - I felt I was not getting enough contact & spun off the edges a tiny bit. Super tight, somewhat edgy shoes might have served better. This is the sort of climb that would be awfully hard to flash - some of the sequences are just too hard to try to reverse and are inobvious. Best of luck - even the "5.11" moves are hard.
Aug 1, 2010
If you like this, check these out: "CO Northern Front Range 5.12 Pure Slab Trilogy" (my suggestions and all non-Splatte routes). #1 is Between Nothingness and Eternity at Greyrock. #2 is Frisky Puppies at Lumpy Ridge. #3 is Blood For Oil at Combat Rock.
Jan 29, 2010
My comment was not in any way intended as a dig at Steve, nor did I think his comments a sandbag. I was trying to get at the nature of how to tackle the nearly vertical smears. I was breaking in a pair of Mad Rocks, and they just seemed too stiff to balance the need for some edging and a whole lot more smearing. The Miura sounds good. Even on a nearly vertical wall, if you intend to smear, then those heels will need to drop. That means milking the "edges" off the side of the shoe. I think that the other point is this. If you are looking for a project somewhere in this difficulty range, then Radlands would be a bad choice. It is just too hard to work those sharp crimps in any more than a couple of trys. By contrast, the harder lines at Security or Anarchy Wall in Clear Creek won't wreck your hands and will be nearly as inspiring as Radlands (well, not quite). Moving quickly through the crimps seems to be important. The opening is awkward, but it won't wreck you. That reduces the hard stuff to 20 to 25 feet on the slab, but this is all sharp stuff. I don't know how Mark could be so enthusiastic about Radlands. As I was following him up this first pitch, I had to clean off the blood just to use the holds!!
Jan 27, 2004
Even having done a lot of bouldering at Flagstaff, I still cut my finger badly on one of the sharp edges above the third bolt. For what it's worth, I wore Miuras for the redpoint - seemed to edge and smear equally well.
Jan 26, 2004
A note on gear for the first pitch: There are 2 fixed pins before the first bolt, so no gear is needed low down. I did get a pretty bomber off-set alien after the last bolt, before the anchor, and was glad to have gear for that final move. Wear any shoes you want, but go bouldering at Flag for about a month to get those babyskin tips hardened up for the sharp crimps at the crux. Pullup training won't help-just learn to trust your feet! Great route!
Jan 26, 2004
For someone interested in doing this difficult line, here is an impression from someone with aveage flexibility and mortal skin. We approached Radlands with benefit of Steve Levin's comments and would do things differently in the future. First, Radlands is a slab, steep, but still a slab. Rather than using edging shoes, I think a slipper with some edging capability is recommended. Most of the edges you will find will be worked as smears and not edges. The bite is off the edge and in the middle of the foot pad. Second, go when it is cool, not too cold. Third, the crux edges are highly unpleasant. While Radlands may be a great tick, the climbing is not fun. One can find equally difficullt and classic "slabs" on Devil's Head that won't leave your fingers a bloody mess. Last, good hip flexibility is important. The edges are too thin to pull hard on, which means that most of the motion is going to come from the legs and feet, so that means turn-out, like a dancer. Even then the edges will be unpleasant. Frankly, I cannot imagine how this route would exist without chipping off the patina to reveal the microedges that it does have, and that means exposing clean, sharp edges that wear relentlessly on the tips. My hat is off to someone who can walk up to Radlands and just do it, however, if you are looking for something in this difficulty range, then there are other local climbs that would make the experience more enjoyable.
Jan 19, 2004
OK. a little historical information is needed here. This line was first toproped by myself with Steve Ilg and Joyce (who was still my wife). We came back and worked out the pro/bolts and set it up. Steve never returned.The FA was made by Joyce and me. Joyce led the first pitch with no falls and no hangs, and I managed as well on the second pitch. All the bolts were placed by myself, as usual. Joyce never placed a bolt in her whole life, but was an amazing climber, posessing strength, courage and skill, powered by an indomitable will.
Apr 30, 2003
The second pitch feels harder than the first pitch, which I've seen rated anywhere from 12b to 13a depening on the age of the guide book and the sunsequent author. Excellent climb -- a highly coveted redpoint in my oponion even if it's considered a dreaded slab.
Aug 6, 2002
Although a tough route to recruit partners, this line is a classic. A crisp edging shoe, impeccable balance, and some crimp strength are key to sending this route.
Aug 2, 2002
- Tempest
I got hurt on this yesterday. I was climbing very badly, but, since I'd done it twice before, pushed past the poorly placed third piece and tried to move out to the arête. Got gripped, tried to get back, grabbed the top piece, it pulled, and I hit the spike with my left foot. Fortunately, it doesn't seem to be broken. A short lower, a short rappel, lots of tape, a stick, and lots of hobbling got me down to the road. Lessons: Just because you've done it before, doesn't mean you can do it again. If you're not climbing well, give it up and try something else. Read and understand your own notes on the topic: "You need to be careful to get good gear on this initial section, because if one piece pulls you could hit the spike."
Nov 2, 2008
- Dike Wall
- Avoiding Wounded Knee
This is a terrific pitch that deserves much more traffic. Once you pull into the corner, it's great climbing all the way, and it feels longer than it looks. The crux is a very cool, powerful sequence, and the exit onto the slab isn't all that easy either.
Jan 30, 2011
- Bearcat Goes to Hollywood
The first ascentionist, and current guide book author, upgraded this climb to 12a. I'll take it. One of those 11d/12a kind of climbs. Best slab pitch in Boulder County.
Oct 17, 2007
I asked Mark Rolofson about where the three bolts were originally. He seemed a bit unsure, but thought one was where the third bolt is (sketchy trad gear to that point), and the other two higher. The 4th and 5th bolts are side by side an arms's length apart. Mark said that Dan Hare put the 4th bolt in, I think to protect the linkup from Divine Wind to Bearcats? Not sure about that though.
Jan 26, 2004
I see that Bob D is slyly giving me some grief for getting scared. Well, I'm nowhere near an 11d climber, but I have gotten up some "11c" sport routes (a sly dig at some of Bob's ratings at Plotinus) in good style, and also the nearby Y2K (supposedly 11d) clean. So I thought I'd give Bearcats a try. I consider myself a mid-10 trad climber, and a lousy slab climber. I hate having to rely on my feet, and I freak if I don't have anything for my hands. That's from learning to climb in the Gunks and spending most of my long climbing career there.
Jan 26, 2004
For history's sake, where were the original locations of the bolts? Looking at the Rossiter topo it looks like there was a bolt at the start of the upper hard slab climbing (at the present 5th bolt), then one at the crux (present 7th bolt), and then some fixed stuff in the seams below the anchor. Presumably the lower section was protected by RPs in the seam to the left of bolts 1, 2, and 3?
Jan 26, 2004
Having just climbed this great route on Saturday, I thought the section between the 3rd and 4th bolts was a little spicy, but not serious, unless you seriously screw it up on the 5.4/5.5 waterdishes to clip the 4th bolt. The 5.8ish mantle comes a few feet above the 3rd bolt. For those who don't like runouts of any kind, the 11b first pitch of Divine Wind is perhaps better protected and is one of the best trad pitches in the Canyon. Masochists who enjoy #3 Camalot sized jamming can finish on Wounded Knee, at a very hand-size-dependent 11b.
Jan 26, 2004
I see we have another unacceptable instance of a climber getting scared. What are we to do? Oh, that's right, you do what Ivan did: devise a way to retreat and find a route that won't cause you to poop yer britches. I'll make the crazy suggestion that this pitch has already been lowered to a sufficient level, even for Boulder Canyon. Mark, I believe you've done enough.On a lighter note, this is a kick-ass slab pitch with intricate climbing and plenty of bolts. My hat is off to those that got to do it before the revolting-bolting.
Jan 26, 2004
WARNING: There is a 20' runout or so between the 3rd and 4th bolts. There are big scoops, but they are sloped. I got pretty gripped. Recovered, got gripped again, barely downclimbed. Then did a Houdini escape by hooking a chain of 3 long runners over a very dubious nubbin and monkeying down to the 3rd bolt. Coincidentally, shortly after this fiasco, I ran into Mark Rolofson, whom I had never met, and who did the FA in '82 with 3 bolts, and then retrobolted it in 2000. He was amused at my story, and said he has debated adding another bolt, but originally thought the retrobolted route should retain some of the spice of the original runout FA. He says the runout section is about 5.8, so for someit will feel casual. Mark promised to tell me if he adds another bolt, so that I can go back.
Jan 25, 2004
- DivineBearcatKnee
- Eye Of The Storm
- Wild Cat
This is a good route. Short and cruxy. Commit to those holds. and go for it! I thought the bolt placement was ok, there are good stances to clip. I would say there is one soft 11a move. Fun!
Mar 26, 2017
This is a fun route and seems to truly be an 11a. At the top, there are big jug holds, and it is not too grungy.
Nov 22, 2015
- Wounded Knee
The roof is really good! Should be on anyone's tick list who likes abit of groveling combined with proper horizontal crack climbing.
Nov 24, 2015
The roof is pretty physical. Be ready to go for it!
Nov 23, 2015
This is described as a three-pitch climb in Bob D's guidebook to the canyon. We did the first two pitches as described there: climb Wildcat to its anchor, then go up a right-facing corner to a ledge, go right at an undercling (crux), then continue up to an undercling traverse heading right to another corner, go up the corner a few feet and then reach right to the Bearcat anchor. He rates it 10+ and that seemed about right; good gear the whole way (standard rack up to #3.5 Camalot).
Jan 19, 2015
Powerful and exposed, this route seems worth at least two stars! The crux roof pitch is short, but the exposure is wild, and the sustained nature of the climbing make it challenging for the grade. The 1st pitch is harder than it looks too and high quality, but Bearcat is even better.
Mar 27, 2006
If the jams at the start feel squirly to you (tight #3 camalot) then you'll be very unhappy if you didn't tape up. I discovered this firsthand as I left a substanial chunk of flesh in the start of the crack.
Oct 7, 2003
- Main Wall
- Astrophysics
Sounds great, Jason. Looking forward to it!
Feb 2, 2016
Fantastic, tbol! I'd like to redpoint the route now that it has safer hardware. I also brushed it a bit, so the top should be nicer, too. Let's be in touch once the closures lift.
Feb 2, 2016
Jason, Thanks for replacing the bolts!!! I have been meaning to for some time. You are right, it was an understatement on my end in regards to their poor condition. I am actually good friends with Dan, and he has told me numerous times to put a bolt where the pin used to be, especially if I were to upgrade the existing hardware. I would be happy to go up there some time with you and finish the job. I have a bunch of stainless hardware I am happy to contribute. I know that Dan would be stoked, too. It is a pretty good pitch! Let me know if you are interested in teaming up. Todd
Feb 1, 2016
I didn't know what to expect with a comment like the "bolts are old and questionable, with the third being the best". Turns out that was a bit of an understatement. The first two bolts were buttonheads with Leeper hangers and the second one was half pulled and bent. I wouldn't have trusted it to hold body weight personally, let alone a lead fall. The third bolt was a wedge bolt with a thin SMC hanger that's collar wouldn't tighten in the hole with a wrench - it just kept spinning and wiggling and could be slightly pulled out of the hole with a quickdraw. But indeed, it was the best of the lot :) Anyway, I replaced all three bolts and I attempted to replace the missing Fixed Pin as well. The new pin wouldn't really bite well and as it protects the finishing moves of the business, I was not confident in its longevity. I talked to Dan Hare (FA) about it and he encouraged replacing the pin with a bolt. Personally, I'd be in favor of that as well.
Jan 31, 2016
- Center Direct
- Charisma
Reading the past comments... not so dirty now, most of the friable stuff has cleaned up. Still a bit of lichen here and there, but the quality climbing makes up for it.
Jan 31, 2017
George, my recollection is you didn't touch that loose block. You did some great stemming as I recall.
Dec 30, 2013
Or didn't.
Dec 29, 2013
Yes, ssp, I'm old enough to take up golf, which could provide a solution to diminishing returns: handicap. Once you've hoarded over 63 years, which I had when I flashed this route, you get to clip all the bolts. (If not, you have to skip every other one.) And for every year past 60, you may increase the rating by a letter grade (5.6b becomes 5.6c). Another bennie: The more I climb, the more easily entertained I am (5.6b seems as challenging in 2013 as 5.6c was in 2012). What loose block? Oh yeah.... If I didn't have to use it, you won't. (If I can't remember touching it, that doesn't mean that I did.)
Dec 29, 2013
How big is the loose block, and is it avoidable?
Nov 5, 2013
You're getting old, George!
May 18, 2013
Led this on 1/31/13. I found it to be continuously challenging and interesting, with lots of stemming. Yes, it has more bolts than it needs; yet I clipped all.
Feb 2, 2013
The third pitch as described here seems to have cleaned up enough to make it reasonable and fun to climb. There is a left hand chip that flexes somewhere near where you reach out right to the rounded arete, maybe at 1/3 height. That feature out left of the last bolt shifts. It seems to be a detached bit of rock. Not wanting to harm my belayer, I left it alone. Be careful not to pry it outward with your left hand or foot.
Feb 1, 2013
Icky and offensive. It looks like a bolt ladder: several hangers are spaced less than two feet apart. Man, c'mon. We don't need this.
May 22, 2011
Did this route with Joe Chorny yesterday. There is still some loose rock on i,t but it wasn't that bad. Perhaps it has cleaned up some in the last couple years. The key down low is to use the arete on the right. It deserves a star. 11a sport is about right mostly continuous 10 moves.
Nov 19, 2007
This is one of the worst climbs I've done in a while. If you do decide to do it, bring safety glasses to protect the eyes from lichen flakes. Also, brushing it on the way down might improve the climb for future ascents.
Nov 26, 2005
This is the filthiest route on Earth next to some obscure route on The Thing, and no amount of time will EVER get this thing to clean up. How does this route get two stars and Hike for Y2K gets one? If you want to have a nice time at Blob Rock, don't waste your time doing this thing. There are a ton of other routes that are much better.
Nov 25, 2005
I'm reposting this warning that I posted under October Surprise on 1/9/05:WARNING: The pillar left of the top 2 bolts moves. It looks like an integral part of the wall, but when Chuck stemmed against it, it shifted a couple of inches.
Nov 15, 2005
- Cold Fusion
Thanks for upgrading the anchor!
Dec 21, 2015
The mixed metal anchor has been upgraded to full stainless steel thanks to the BCC's bolt replacement program. Please support them if you don't already.
Dec 20, 2015
This is a fun route, and I agree that it is too bad it is not longer.
Nov 3, 2013
I led this climb in May, 1993, before "first ascent" and bolt installation by Dan. I placed a couple of ballnuts, etc. Teri Ebel followed me up this pitch.
May 30, 2011
Really nice route - too bad it isn't longer!
Nov 19, 2007
Quality 40-ft route. Balance is key. Thanks, addendum George, Teri, and Dan, again! You can also TR a similar-difficulty line between the 5.7 OW to the L & this route from the same anchors.
Aug 25, 2004
Quite nice. A finger-sized cam protects the first move. A 9 or easy 10 move past the first bolt gets you to a ledge. You can place a #1/red Camalot in the ledge. One or two micro cams get you to the second bolt, but the cams may not be necessary since it's not that hard. The crux, at the second bolt, is essentially toproped. If you're going to toprope the second, place a #2/gold Camalot before angling left to the anchors.
Dec 16, 2002
- David Schwimmer
15 years ago Craig Weinhold and I went up to Blob Rock for some wintertime cragging, and I unfortunately had forgotten my climbing shoes. Not wanting to squander a perfect t-shirt weather winter day, we made the best of it. We climbed this and the other two unknown routes that day (amongst all the Shimmer/Simmer routes). It's a shame they have been bolted.
Nov 8, 2015
- Eagles Are People Too
- Erickson's Crack
- Get Shorty
Fun route - bolted badly.
Nov 17, 2013
There is a new (to me) extended finish to this that goes a bit right and up some right-facing corners and aretes. It's quite fun and interesting, but it is a bit run out between the bolts. Maybe 9+ or so. There is an old bolt a bit right of the new bolts, so this finish may coincide with that old route that's just left of Where Eagles Dare.
Oct 22, 2011
If Bolt Cola is a 10a, the crux of this felt like 10d unless I was missing something. Even with the third bolt moved up a foot, I feel like nailing the ledge would be hard to avoid if you came off at the 4th. Strenuous insecure moves on tiny freaking holds there unless I was missing something. I used a 0.5 c4 between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, and then a 0.75 between the 4th and 5th. Fun, but I doubt I'd volunteer to do it again.
Nov 8, 2010
To add to what Bob said, sometime in the past we also moved the 3rd bolt a foot higher so that it will keep you off the ledge (see many comments above). Because of this, you may want to place a red Alien size at the ledge (over right) if you feel uncomfortable making the reach, as it is a stretch. Then unclip the piece to reduce rope drag.
Jan 5, 2008
Thanks for all the beta on the route. We did put a locker on the 4rd bolt, but neither my partner Joe Chorny or I found the 4th bolt clip particularly bad or the bolt to be in that bad a spot. Perhaps the key is to get the feet well established a little higher on better holds before making the clip. True, the hand holds are the smallest on the route there but not too bad.
Nov 19, 2007
Focus on footwork when you pull into the roof as the handholds above don't inspire confidence. I probably made the 4th clip worse than needed, I ended up clipping across my chest with my right hand, strange positioning... whatever works...
Oct 21, 2004
I found the key to clipping the 4th bolt was to stand on a small edge with my left foot. So, after clipping the 3rd bolt, make the strenuous layback/undercling moves upward, keep the left hand on the undercling and move the right hand up to a pinch-type hold. At this point, your feet are maybe a little above the 3rd bolt. Just to the left of the 3rd bolt, there's a small edge for your left foot. Step over to that and stand up to clip the 4th bolt. I'm a little less than 5'5" and could do this pretty easily with a regular quickdraw. Don't fall while you're clipping or you'll land on that ledge! Once clipped at the 4th bolt, the next couple of moves up are fun.
Oct 8, 2004
10a for the crux. Maybe the climb cleaned up a little bit, but the narrow stemming (close smears in the corner) made this climb OK, though the clip still did seem awkward.If Bolt Cola is 10a, this is 10b, but if Simmer and Shimmer are 9/9+, this is 10a, and Bolt Cola is 9-.
Sep 20, 2004
A committing and somewhat scary route. The moves past the third bolt are strenuous, and the handholds leading to the fourth bolt aren't very good. I felt there was a good chance I could blow the clip at the fourth bolt and land on the ledge below the third bolt, so I backed off. This move deserves an R rating. Edit: On 11/18/05, Bob D. moved the third bolt up a foot higher and a little to the right. This provides better protection getting to the fourth bolt, and lessens the chance of hitting something if you blow the fourth clip. The move up to the fourth bolt no longer deserves an R rating.
Jun 30, 2004
I actually spied this route when Ray & I rapped off Bolt Cola once and I told Bob to bolt it. By the time I got back to lead it, Ivan had made his initial post. Being in such bad shape, it had me quite scared. So I had my ED (Erection Device) with me. This is a foot long draw with a coathanger inside with a Genius carabiner on the top side (so you can reach up and clip hard to get at bolts). This allows you to do climbs without having to raise your ability level! So as I get to the 4th bolt, I pull off ED, and I am actually too close to the bolt, and it confuses me, so I clip the wrong end onto the bolt. Now I can't get my rope into the Genius which has shut on me. So I have to take it off the hanger and put on a regular draw. It actually is not that bad. It could be located a little lower and right. I too did this again not too long ago and it did not seem unreasonable. But then I did not fall. Sport climbing is supposed to be "sporty" isn't it?? (Or is that Spooty?)
Jan 26, 2004
Did this again. The clip is still hard and still dangerous. My partner fell leading at the 3rd bolt and hit the ledge. So you'd hit the ledge really hard if you fell clipping the 4th bolt, unless you had the presence of mind, and the time, to push out. Maybe have a draw plus long sling pre-clipped to the rope for the 4th bolt. You might want some trad gear for the runout to the 5th bolt (assuming you're joining Bolt Cola). It's a long way, but easy. If you're not joining Bolt Cola, then you definitely need trad gear.
Jan 26, 2004
The locker was soothing, as Ivan suggests, and the clip isn't too bad with a draw on it (thanks Greg). Certainly the clip is the crux of the route. Most people connect up with Bolt Cola, but I noticed someone yesterday using Shorty as an indirect start to Where Eagles Dare.
Jan 5, 2003
This is nice but short with one hard section. It's harder than Bolt Cola but less sustained. Clip the third bolt with a locking biner to minimize the chance of landing on the block below. Strenuous moves at the third bolt lead to a hard clip at the 4th bolt. This clip was the crux for me, but I may have positioned myself badly for the clip. Have a quick draw ready on your left side for this clip. After the 4th bolt the climbing is easy.
Dec 16, 2002
- Lichen To Like
The second pitch is not quite as bad using small cams (like Aliens, etc) and not passive pro, but maybe still be "R" because of the potential fragility of the placements near the end and the fall potential (falling is not recommended on this one). A very cool pitch! Diagonal up and left and belay at 2 ring bolts on the upper right edge. Do Erickson's or Under the Eagle's Wing to finish up a 3rd pitch!!!
Jan 26, 2010
- October Surprise
On pitch 1, a red tri-cam was good for me in the shallow slot just before the bulge on the white dike, where it's kinda funky for a cam. I thought this harder than the first moves by the two bolts. Pitch 1 - 10a.
Jan 10, 2013
In 1990, I led Teri Ebel up the second pitch described herein, after starting on On Ballet. After Rossiter's 1999 guidebook came out, I noticed that we had climbed what he had described as "October Surprise," done by Yokell and Walsh in 1992. The first pitch described herein was done by Hare, et al. in 2004.
May 30, 2011
Did this climb with Joe Chorny yesterday. On P1 the new bolts are nice to have, but if they weren't there, it would exciting 8+ or 9 over the roof's right hand side to the first gear placement. The rest of the pitch felt like 8 or 9 and not 10a. The white dike crux is protected well by 2 cams. The v-slot move is cool and less exicting with a bolt at your waist. I led P2 and thought is was more like 8+ or 9- and not 10 a or b. I should know since I don't lead 10b trad! This is nowhere near as difficult as P1 of Where Eagles Dare (solid 10b) and comparable to P2 and P4 of WED. From the move up into the corner, the climb heads left out a small crack and up to the anchor. We thought the climb went right, so we hand traversed across the face and around the arete but didn't see the anchor. The bolted belay below the orange corner is up and left from the last belay and can't be seen until a few feet below it. Good pitch - just short, only 50 ft or so.
Nov 19, 2007
According to Mark Rolofson's new guidebook, "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Volume I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon": The pitch documented here as the first pitch of October Surprise is actually the first pitch of Charisma, 10a PG-13, three bolts plus small-to-medium gear. First ascent by Dan Hare, Michelle Hale, and Noel Childs in January, 2004. The second pitch is October Surprise, 10a, gear. First ascent by Michael Yokell and Jim Walsh, 1992. The pitch above October Surprise, formerly called Bolted Orange Corner, is actually the last pitch of Charisma, 11a/b, 11 bolts. First ascent by Dan Hare, Michelle Hale, and Noel Childs in January, 2004. The slab left of October Surprise is the second pitch of Under the Eagle's Wing, 10d, gear plus one bolt. First ascent by Fred Knapp and Dan Hare, 1997.
May 28, 2006
A fine route. I felt the first pitch had two 10a cruxes: turning the roof at the second bolt, and climbing a bulge on the white dike halfway up the pitch. There are some runout sections on this pitch, so get pro where you can. I got a #1 Camalot in a shallow slot and a small wired nut to protect the tenuous moves past the bulge on the white dike. The V-slot, slab, and hand traverse at the end of the pitch were lots of fun. The second pitch is shorter but more sustained; the crux is a delicate step right (10a or 10b) to the left-leaning corner. Fun layback and slab moves follow. There is a two-bolt anchor just after the end of the corner/roof. An excellent 11a bolted route starts from this anchor; I have added it to the database as "Bolted Orange Corner" (changed to Charisma). It's well bolted and well worth doing; be careful of some crispy holds and friable rock.
Nov 13, 2005
I'm thinking the bolts on Pitch 1 are ok? Pitch #2 where On Ballet goes horizontally right and this route straight up, I've twice gone leftward, low across a slab, airy 5.8, clipped a modern bolt then up an easy arete to the 2 bolt anchor below the new bolted corner. Short but good pitch....
Jan 19, 2005
Information wanted on the following lines in the vicinity of October Surprise on Blob: 1) The first pitch as described above with the 3 new bolts. 2) The slab left of the crux pitch of October Surprise. There are (at least) 2 new bolt holes. The slab looks trad climbable. Perhaps the bolts were placed recently but then removed? This slab may be part of one of the routes left of On Ballet. 3) The bolted orange corner above the second pitch of On Ballet. This is about 11a with about 10 bolts. It looks real nice and climbs OK, but the rocks is pretty friable. Lots of pieces fell off. WARNING: The pillar left of the top 2 bolts moves. It looks like an integral part of the wall, but when Chuck stemmed against it, it shifted a couple of inches.
Jan 9, 2005
- Olympic Swimmer
I would like to clear up some misinformation/history on this route. I re-climbed these routes twice (ones last week and once the week before that). I also tracked down first ascentionists, and asked several people that have done both The Reamer and Lichen to Like to clear this up. This pitch, as described here, is a new route known as Olympic Swimmer. It does cross Lichen to Like at about the 75-foot mark, just below the second retrobolt (hollow-sounding flakes). Lichen to Like keeps angling up and right along the crack system to gain the ledge at the higher of the two bolted anchors (where the still intact webbing nest is around the chockstone). We did not place any bolts on our ascent (lead or anchor). I am not a fan of retrobolts and while I recognize I did not publish our route on mountainproject, I did give the information to both Rossiter and D’Antonio for their respective books. Unfortunately the route never made it into D’Antonio’s books as Rossiter never updated his book (as of yet). In that regards, I do not blame the retrobolter for the bolts, but it would be nice to see them removed and patched.
Nov 29, 2015
This does seem easy for 5.7, but I kept the grade as I don't want anyone to feel sandbagged.
Nov 22, 2015
I wouldn't argue with 5.5 or 5.6, I figured it was a direct retrobolt of the first pitch of Lichen to Like, so I kept the 5.7 rating from the D'Antonio guide.
Nov 16, 2015
Seems like 5.5 or 5.6 to me. The variation to the left makes it 5.7-, perhaps.
Nov 15, 2015
15 years ago Craig Weinhold and I went up to Blob Rock for some wintertime cragging, and I unfortunately had forgotten my climbing shoes. Not wanting to squander a perfect t-shirt weather winter day, we made the best of it. We climbed this and the other two unknown routes that day (amongst all the Shimmer/Simmer routes). It's a shame they have been bolted.
Nov 8, 2015
- On Ballet
There are now bolted anchors at the tops of both P1 and P2. You can rap from the top of P2 (end of the good stuff) back to the ground in two raps. We used a 70, but I think a 60 would suffice. Bring small gear. It's easy climbing, but the cruxes are mainly mental (runouts or exposure).
Jan 30, 2016
I climbed this route in 1981 with Mike Endicott. I led the second (crux) pitch.
May 30, 2011
Did it on Sunday. Probably shouldn't say this, but it was a pleasure to climb this on a weekend in the Canyon while just across the road Cobb Rock was busier than a one-armed paper hanger. It is true, don't fall on P2, but a few thoughts I haven't seen posted here about that part of the climb: 1. There *is* small, flaring crack (like 2-3" wide) on the traverse over to the dike system that will take a good amount of air time off any fall in the dike system. Someone mentioned one at foot level, now, I *am* short, but this was clearly at chest/neck level for most people. It ate a green C3 and an Alien really easily, and while I was getting fancy with route finding (e.g. finding a way around the dike system), I took a lead fall on them and they held. It's a good placement if you just give it some attention. 2. The move into the dike system appears to be really scary/sketchy (at least to me and my partner). It's nothing we agreed we would have ever thought twice about and we've done moves like that so many times in the past without even thinking about it. But, there isn't very good recovery from losing your smear while you unweight the other foot to make the move (read: really, none) because the hands aren't wonderful here, and it is on the runout portion of the lead without good air below you to fall into (read: there isn't great air to fall into, not bad, but not a fall you want to take for fun, esp if you have previous falls to remind you of what happens when you fall in similar circumstances :). Anyway, the move into the dike system is nice, and once I did it I felt like a schmuck for being scared of it. Anyway, hope my small yet wordy beta helps.
Aug 31, 2010
After the 3rd pitch, you can hop across the chimney to the left and get to the anchor above Erickson's Crack. 3 raps with a single rope and you are back @ your pack....
May 8, 2010
I had fun climbing this yesterday in a single pitch with a 70m. I ran it out quite a bit to conserve gear and minimize rope drag. With a 60m I think the second would need to scramble up a ways on the very easy rock at the bottom.
Nov 2, 2008
Me panties...now if I could only remember where I left my black Alien. Kiddin' about the panties.
Mar 25, 2007
I found a pair of soiled panties tucked under a rock at the end of the second pitch about four years ago. Other than that, a very good line. The second pitch is exciting, sans panties.
Mar 24, 2007
Ron Olsen, Dale Haas and I replaced the slings on the rappel off the right side of the walk-off ledge with quick links and links of chain. Hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
Oct 25, 2005
For posterity . . .a pretty good route and longish for Boulder Canyon to boot. There were some bolts out left (part of another route, i suppose) for a slightly steeper start. As stated above, small to medium cams are nice at the crux, runner them long and watch out for some loose rock getting out of the overhang. There were a couple holds that probably shouldn't have had any chalk on em. That's it.
Apr 4, 2005
We climbed this as a party of three yesterday. We all concurred that the first pitch had the most difficult climbng on the route, maybe because the "crux" on pitch 2 is just so damn fun-!? Steep climbing, but clean moves on good holds made it seem no harder than 5.8 to me. We walked right at the top as described above by Ron Olsen and did one double rope rap with two 60 meter ropes and easily made it all the way to the ground.
Nov 16, 2004
Must be getting old...but the pictures don't stir memories. Nonetheless, if you don't like "walking off," you can rap from a good anchor L of the chimney at the start of the walkoff ledge to the 2 bolt anchor of P2 and then to the ground with 2 ropes.
Oct 27, 2004
An alternative to the 3rd pitch is to climb "Erickson's Crack" up the vertical wall to the left. This is rated 10c in Rossiter's guide and felt to me at least that hard. This climb is not in the current database (I'd add it myself but I can't remember much more than this).
Oct 27, 2004
An excellent climb with an inobvious line; almost as good as Bitty Buttress. Take some time to study the route before you set off. The first pitch has good pro at start and finish, but has an easy run-out slab in the middle. The steep upper corner has some great stemming and an airy step left at the finish; solid 5.8 to 5.8+. Traverse straight right to start the second pitch, and use small cams to protect the airy moves into the right-facing corner. Lots of good holds keep this at 5.8, not 5.9. The slab above is a little scary; you have to make several thin face moves with pro below your feet. I got a #1 Camalot for pro before launching onto the slab. You can then get two finger-size cams for pro as you move left to the chimney. The third pitch is short and leaves you on a big ledge; thread a block for a belay anchor. The rappel descent described in a previous comment is the easiest way off. Traverse right several hundred feet, passing an exposed section, to the first rappel. Look for a bolt just above the ledge and two bolts with slings and rings just below the ledge. The slings were replaced on 10/26/04 by Bruce Hildenbrand. Rappel to a good ledge with another bolt anchor, and do a second rappel that drops you in the gully on the right side of the rock.
Oct 27, 2004
P1 from the ground to the ledge felt like the crux to me. While the start to P2 was difficult to protect there is no way this is 5.9..airy but not 5.9. Two ropes *might* get one down to the top of Bolt Cola if you want to skip the last pitch or finish the climb, walk NE around the ledge to the rap anchor that puts you down near the start of Bolt Cola, 1x50m rope is plenty for this (2 raps)...The anchor is down and over the edge but there is a single bolt on the wall next to the ledge to offer some protection while threading the rope...slings are a little crispy (as of 8/3/02) and need to be replaced.
Aug 5, 2002
Good route for those beginning to trad-lead. Crux can be well protected with a small cam (.5) and/or small nut. Great views from up top...5 parties on Cob and Blob was entirely empty.
Jun 24, 2002
Don't fall on pitch 2 above that ledge into that dike system. It's 8+ here but a wee bit committing. May be easier for taller chimps.
Mar 5, 2002
- Orange Corner
We rapped off P1 of Where Eagles Dare a few weeks ago and got a look at this climb, and I thought, "Yeah, it looks like about 5.8." So we decided it would make a good warm-up climb today. 5.8 is a major sandbag in my opinion. Felt more like Where Eagles Dare (10c). Way harder than any of the 4 bolted climbs to the left or any of the trad 9s at Blob. But perhaps I was in shock at running into such hard climbing on what I expected to be a cruise. The only thing that got me up the pitch was my unwillingness to downclimb to the ground to clean my gear. We approached the crux corner differently than described above. Rather than 'climbing the first 40 feet of unprotected slab on "Where Eagles Dare"' (disagree about the "unprotected" btw), we climbed right of the orange streak up a right leaning right facing groove and then angled left to the base of the corner. You could also climb straight up, left around a headwall and then slightly right to the same place (dirty and poor gear), or perhaps climb the headwall directly (cleaner but poor gear). The crux is S due to the likelihood of hitting the slab. There is excellent gear at your feet when you get the first jug (I had 4 good pieces). As for the "scary moves traversing back left into the corner", it sounds like Chris and Alex may have climbed up onto the slab right of the crux corner and then moved left. I considered that, but it looked way too scary. Maybe it's 5.8 that way? Instead I did some hard stemming to get the first jug. It took a long time to figure this move out. Then another hard move to get the second jug, which also was hard to figure.
Nov 6, 2005
- P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bolt Cola)
I like how the description says this route is possibly overbolted yet there's a 30ft run out without bolts...you can certainly place more than one cam in this section. Poor description and protection sections on this route's page. It should also be changed to a sport/trad mix route. It's not a sport route. I don't understand why the bottom portion of this route was bolted where there's obvious pro yet the top was not...either bolt the whole thing, or not at all. Yeah the climbing's easy up there, but a fall would be catastrophic.
Jul 28, 2016
This really should just be described as the retrobolted first pitch of Astrophysics. Anyone that has climbed the Simmer/Slimmer/Shimmer/Bolt Cola routes knows there's not enough real-estate to shove in all these routes, and to quote Richard Rossiter's Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon book from 1999, "Climb the first 80 feet of Astrophysics...." Furthermore, Rossiter describes the first pitch of Astrophysics to start off a pointed flake (as D'Antonio describes the start to Bolt Cola). Rossiter goes on to say climb the 7 bolts and that in the FA info, the "bolts on the first pitch were placed by a subsequent party". Dan Hare has even said this is a retrobolt of his original line. (The same flake is described for Astrophysics in Rossiter's 1988 guide Boulder Climbs North too.) The FA line should read FA: Dan Hare, Mike Downing, 1987, retrobolted by Ken Trout, 1994. I recognize D'Antonio's guide suggests starting Astrophysics just left of Bolt Cola. However, the bolts are only five feet right of Simmer so.... Seems crazy people are so accepting of not only retrobolting an established line but also the renaming of it. This has bugged me for a long time, but with the retrobolting of some routes a bit left (see David Schwimmer, et al), I felt the need to chime in. Even those routes, which I am credited with as an FA for on this site, were not my FAs as the leftmost two are partly bolted versions of the first pitches of The Reamer and Lichen to Like. Does history not matter anymore? I recognize a route is first done by an individual and some see it as "their route" while others view all routes as communal, and we could all go round and round about the retrobolting debate, but still, I'm not sure I know anyone who, even when in favor of adding retrobolts, feels it appropriate to also rename the route and claim the "new" first ascent of that line.
Nov 17, 2015
Never found the elusive 8th bolt. You could make this route 10a, but following natural weaknesses in line with bolt felt 5.9.
Aug 9, 2014
Thought this was the best of the climbs on the face. Couldn't see the bolt right and up of the top block, so actually went left into juggy crack on the first lead - fun too. Used a 0.75 and perhaps a 1 toward the top.
Nov 17, 2013
The main info here says 8 QDs, but for the life of me, there were 6 on the face. If you go right at the little roof, you'll find a 7th, with that 20-25' runout. If you go left over that little roof and you didn't bring gear, I don't care how 5.6 it might be; that's 30+ feet runout, with a real chance of decking if you bumble something at the anchors. That mythic 8th QD would change the world on this climb.
Oct 18, 2013
I found a pair of Evolv shoes at the base of this climb today (1/2/2012). PM or call me if they are yours. 303-709-2214.
Jan 2, 2012
Climbed this yesterday- fun route, used a grey Alien in the seam/crack between the last bolt & the anchor. Enjoyed it quite a bit! *As of 17 Sep 09 there is/was an ACTIVE wasp nest very close to the 7th/last bolt...BEWARE!**
Sep 18, 2009
Thought this was a fun route and does have some thoughtful 5.10ish moves. But not knowing where the next bolt was at the roof I headed left thinking I could protect the crack with a cam. The placement looked a little marginal, but I went for it anyways. I slipped, the piece pulled, and I went quite a ways. Pulled myself together and went back up and this time went right, much easier that way and I thought I was wimping out, but I guess that is the way the route goes! Moral of the story is: good to read the descriptions on here first, and of course I shouldn't have tried it on marginal gear. I'll be back.
Nov 20, 2007
Good route.
Nov 15, 2007
A number of fun moves, well protected with bolts until after the roof, then some runout, but on relatively easy ground.
Oct 21, 2004
This is the easiest route in this area to identify because you start by stepping off a spike of rock. You can't see the last bolt from the 6th bolt (at least we didn't), so without this knowledge we "bailed" left, where you can get some gear in. After placing another small cam you can wander up and right to the chains (looks tricky but is not), or head left for the anchor on "Shimmer". Down low, there are several ways to get between the bolts so it's kind of hard to rate. No way is this route 5.8, though!
Jul 12, 2004
Actually more like 1 1/2 * ; good , but really outstanding. [Definitely] over-rated at 5.10 and would probably go at 5.8 in Shelf. There is a bit of a run-out to the anchors (but it is pretty easy), a couple of 3/4" to 1" cams would help steady down a leader used to an "over-bolted" routes.
Aug 13, 2003
After getting reacquainted with real 5.9 face climbing out in Toulumne this year, I wonder if my toes were out of tune when we rated Bolt Cola. But, if Ken Cangi is suggesting 5.10b, I'm all for it. Close bolts really make things feel easier to me. My purpose was to just have a good warm-up for Jolt nearby, instead of having to roll the dice on Hike with Ludwig Dude.
Aug 13, 2003
Variation of Fear: Not knowing where (Read: if) that bolt was on the R side of the roof, I went left and protected the flake/crack with a couple of stoppers. You can then head left to the other set of bolted anchors, or proceed R to the intended anchors.
Aug 4, 2002
I've led this route without using the bolts, and there is only one place where I felt the pro was not great, and that was up high, under the roof, just before you get to easier ground (and good pro again). There was a so-so small cam placement below the roof, but the rock wasn't so great around the cams, and I didn't really want to test it.
Sep 28, 2001
You might want to take a couple of medium-sized pieces for the 20-25 foot stretch to the anchor. By the way, what does overbolted actually mean?
Jan 1, 2001
To the "overbolted" comment, I mean that most of the route can be protected with stoppers and cams. There are only a few sections where placing gear would be difficult/runout. This applies to Simmer as well.
Jan 1, 2001
- Pool Skimmer
I would like to clear up some misinformation/history on this route. I re-climbed these routes twice (once last week and once the week before that). I also tracked down first ascentionists and asked several people that have done both The Reamer and Lichen to Like to clear this up. This pitch, as described here, is a new route known as Pool Skimmer. It does cross Lichen to Like at about the 60-65-foot mark, just below the second retrobolt (below the shallow groove). Lichen to Like keeps angling up and right along the crack system to gain the ledge at the higher of the two bolted anchors (where the still intact webbing nest is around the chockstone). We did not place any bolts on our ascent (lead or anchor). I am not a fan of retrobolts, and while I recognize I did not publish our route on mountainproject, I did give the information to both Rossiter and D’Antonio for their respective books. Unfortunately, the route never made it into D’Antonio’s books as Rossiter never updated his book (as of yet). In that regards, I do not blame the retrobolter for the bolts, but it would be nice to see them removed and patched.
Nov 29, 2015
This does seem easier than 5.9. I gave it 7+ because it may be slightly harder than its neighbor to the right.
Nov 22, 2015
Your partner agreed as well? Huh, maybe I was having an off day, I'll try it again next time up there - you did start by stemming up the dihedral and moving left into the finger crack? And no, I'm not too strong, it's been years (and 2 kids) since I onsighted harder than 9+, and even at my very strongest 11- was my max. Never even toproped a single 11c face clean (followed a few cracks up to there). Kept pulling finger tendons on face, cracks are my friend....
Nov 20, 2015
I am one opinion in many, but my partner did happen to agree. I think with the very extensive mileage I get on routes at that grade (sometimes over 1000' in a day at that grade) I am attuned to it, but if consensus says otherwise, I'll be proven wrong. Regardless, by that logic, aren't you too strong to rate this as well?
Nov 19, 2015
No offense, Tony, but maybe you're too strong of a climber to accurately rate this? There's no way those moves left out of the initial stemming dihedral into the finger crack are anywhere near 5.7, you'll get someone hurt rating it that way (particularly with the thin pro). Maybe you climbed up to the first bolt a different way?
Nov 16, 2015
Seriously over-graded. 5.7 for one move at the bottom and one move near the top.
Nov 15, 2015
15 years ago Craig Weinhold and I went up to Blob Rock for some wintertime cragging, and I unfortunately had forgotten my climbing shoes. Not wanting to squander a perfect t-shirt weather winter day, we made the best of it. We climbed this and the other two unknown routes that day (amongst all the Shimmer/Simmer routes). It's a shame they have been bolted.
Nov 8, 2015
- Reamer, The
I haven't been to Blob in quite a while, so I can't remember for sure, but this sounds suspiciously like a route I did with DH several years ago on Halloween day (maybe '99 or '00?). We had a belay (rat's nest of slings around a block) to the left of the spike and traversed above the spike to get to the blind stopper placement. Well, I never actually got on this pitch because my buddy fell about a hundred times before getting to the stopper placement (seems like he was falling onto a bolt). When he finally managed to make it over, he put in a very small nut and decided to weight it to see if it might hold. Turns out the answer was no. His static body weight alone dislodged a large block which came crashing down and almost killed DP who was at a bolted belay one pitch down (that's another story...). DH fell onto the Reamer spike. He didn't get horribly hurt, but was feeling bad enough to call it a day. After getting off, DP and I had a fine time on the sport routes in the right gully. DH was content to take a bunch of vitamin I and just watch...
Sep 6, 2007
- Resolution
This route has good climbing. It now has three recently placed bolts, plus a new two-bolt anchor, about 20 feet left of the anchors atop the first pitch of On Ballet. On 1/31/13, I started farther left, left of the big tooth-shaped boulder next to the base of the cliff. I led a right-diagonalling wide-ish crack around a bulge. I continued up and right, eventually clipping a new bolt that seems left of Resolution, as described herein. I continued up and right, clipping the third of the new bolts that is ON Resolution. I belayed Leo up to the new two-bolt anchor, which is perfectly situated under the second pitch of under the Eagle's Wing, which he led next. After doing the third pitch of Charisma, we rapped to the ground and toproped Resolution as described herein. All its three new bolts seem unnecessary if you are willing to fiddle with gear and extend some of the placements. The bolts make the cruxes well-protected, though. This photo shows the right-angling, wide-ish crack. Above, I am clipping a new bolt that seems left of Resolution. Above it, the third new bolt on Resolution may be visible. I clipped it, too. Down and to the right of me is a short, left-angling, wide-ish crack. Just to its right is Resolution's second bolt, which protects a long reach to a hidden bucket up and right. Photo by Leo Paik.
Feb 2, 2013
- Shimmer
It's at least 30 ft to the first bolt, so a couple small cams are suggested to protect against groundfall.
Dec 11, 2014
Fun routes, though I thought this and the routes to the right were bolted strangely. Some bolts where close to protectable cracks while right after that, on blank unprotectable faces, there were not bolts. Shorter people also have to pull the harder moves, slightly run out before clipping. I should have saved a 0.1 perhaps before reaching the bolt over the crux.
Nov 17, 2013
I liked this route better than Simmer. The line was more direct, and the moves through the roof were more interesting.
Nov 15, 2007
On 10/28/2004, Dale Haas and I removed the smash (lap) links at the anchor and replaced them with 3/8" quicklinks and Fixe SS rappel rings. Also, we tightened the nuts on all four of the bolts which protect this route. This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
Oct 31, 2004
Easy to protect up to the first bolt with a small TCU and/or stopper. I found the roof on this route (climbed on the left side) much more fun and esthetic than that on neighboring Simmer.
Oct 21, 2004
Climbed this on 5/4/02. The nut on the second hanger was unscrewed to the point of nearly falling off. I tightened it by hand, but that won't last long. As far as the bulge goes, we did it both ways, finding that going right was easier climbing but made clipping the bolt harder.
May 6, 2002
At the bulge slightly below the end of the route, where it gets steepest, there are good holds on the right. I've seen folks go left (as shown with the red line), and I have gone right myself. Any comments on this variation? Will Burrows
Feb 12, 2002
- Simmer
Not as fun as Shimmer, IMO. After I pulled the roof, I found myself bushwacking to the anchors.
Nov 15, 2007
If you skip the trad gear and use the first three bolts of Bolt Cola, be sure to bring a longer runner for the third bolt to reduce rope drag.
Oct 21, 2004
This route is pretty fun. I found that you can skip the trad gear by using the first three bolts of Bolt Cola, until the bolts on simmer start.
Jan 1, 2001
- Slimmer
With the head-level bolt at the crux and an opposed RP and microcam on the terrain before that, this route does not warrant an R-rating.
Aug 26, 2015
- Talon Contest
I went back and brushed the worst lichen off this route a couple of weeks ago. Enjoy! An excellent, four-pitch 5.10 link-up can be done by climbing the first two pitches of Where Eagles Dare, the second pitch of Blacklight (5.10 corner and hand traverse above the big ledge, a bit dirty from under-use but well-protected and exciting), and then finishing on Talon Contest. This adds up to one of the most continuous and interesting long 5.10s in Boulder Canyon.
Oct 10, 2003
- Where Eagles Dare
Today I rope soloed up to pitch one anchors and replaced them with new hangers, nuts, quicklinks, and rap rings. cdn-files.apstatic.com/clim… It was previously one rusty anchor and one bolt sticking out without a hanger. I hope this inspires more people to climb this route! If you like what I did here, buy me a beer in Venmo (@jolamar) and tell me about a route that needs some lovin' Cheers!
2 days ago
We thought this climb was garbage. Maybe P3 is nice, if you like awkward overhung exposure. The description of Orange corner in the book is right, but the topo line shows center route, so we tried to link the center route to get to the 2nd anchor on the big ledge. These pitches were very run out, the gear was shit, and the climbing wasn't spectacular. Luckily, using doubles could reduce the heinous link-up meandering. The P1 anchor has only one hanger. We didn't continue up pitch 4, because we wanted to get off of this terrible route after P3, and there were nice anchors right there after the hand crack.
Oct 23, 2017
I would recommend running this in two pitches. P1 - ground to the top of the .8 runout section (skip intermediate bolted anchor), and belay at a bolted anchor just under the big roof. P2 run to the top. We carried a #4 but didn't use it. Felt the crux was well-protected with a #5 or so, BD stopper at your chest and a red Alien at your knees when you leave the jug. Not sure if we were on the right route for the final pitch, but it was definitely not .8. 15 feet of steep 0.5 Camalots to 15 feet of steep 0.75s. Great climbing. There is a new rap anchor climber's left of the finish about 40 feet. With a 70m, you can reach the anchor at the top of guidebook P2 (before the hand traverse). Not a great pull, but our rope came clean. A single 70m rap then gets you to the ground. I doubt a 60m would reach on either rap.
Jul 31, 2017
I just did this route. Great route. I feel like these posts understate the nature of the first pitch crux which at 5'10" I found extremely hard and scary. Once stemmed in the dihedral, you are on a massive rail which actually has a small flake on it. I slung this flake which I felt was better than the placement. Situated in here it is pretty casual, but I probably stemmed there for over 10 minutes trying to figure out how to pull the crux. You are way above your gear on a slabby mantel that if you blew it you would deck on the slab below the crux dihedral. This is a very serious pitch. To put it into perspective for you, I felt this was scarier than Super Slab, 10d, Northwest Corner, 11a, X-M, 10c which I have led mutliple times. The rest of the route was fun, especially the hand cracks after turning the corner.
Aug 13, 2014
Did this with Brian today. First of all, awesome climb. It seems to me that everyone has a different experience on this climb. I found the crux of the route for me to be the hand crack leaving the large detached "eagle's nest" flake. However, I suck at all kinds of crack except for my specialty... thin tips. The thin overhang was one move of 5.10a followed by a decent rest to a strange stemming/manteling sequence that just felt a little balancey. The second pitch was super exciting. I placed about four small, decent pieces right in a row on the left before launching out into the cool sequence on the face to the right. I apparently was having too much fun, because I missed the cam placement on the arete and didn't place until I was about to exit the RF corner, circa~8 ft below the 2nd pitch belay. I love fiddling in RPs above a twenty foot runout. An excellent route.
Oct 3, 2009
Great route! P2 was my favorite, but I found the crux in the first pitch easier than some parts of the sustained hand cracks on P3. Loads of fun none the less.
Oct 3, 2009
Finally I can say I climbed a really good trad line in BC. Found it a bit harder than expected. Not sure if my 5 day fast and losing 13lbs had anything to do with it. But, the first pitch crux felt quite stiff, well protected though. The second pitch is the mental crux, thin slabby climbing with intermittent "ok" gear.
Jun 22, 2009
Fer sure one of the BEST routes in BC! P2 overhang is a little heady, but that's what we're out there for, right?
Dec 15, 2008
That's Scott Woodruff, Dan Hare, and Brad Gilbert. Great route, great guys!
Dec 15, 2008
I agree with Guy, and here is an excellent 4 pitch variation that captures the best parts of Main Wall: P1: Climb Bolt Cola to the anchors (10a), 25m. P2: Lead directly up the white face above on small pro to the prominent traverse rail. Clip a single cold shut, and hand rail across for 20m to the regular belay at the base of p3 of Where Eagles Dare (8+), 30m. P3: Climb the beginning of the third pitch and belay at the first set of ring anchors, just past the handcrack (10a), 15m. P4: Climb the rest of the third pitch to the big ledge (10a), 25m. Just below and climber's right of the top out are a set of rap anchors for a 25m rappel to ring anchors at the base of Decade Dance, then 25m rappel to the gully.
Nov 1, 2008
This is one of the best multi-pitch climbs in BC. Every pitch has something unique to offer. The 10b pitch is well protected and straightforward, if you are tall. The second pitch is quite heady, since the crux is protected by a #000 C3 cam.
Jan 5, 2008
Rob I don't recall which way the cam went in. Not a spot to hang around at very long. P2 and the others are much easier than P1 so give it a try if you at the top of P1.
Nov 8, 2007
Wait, the small cam...middle lobes up or down?
Nov 6, 2007
Climbed this yesterday with Joe Chorny. We both thought this route was great. Here are some comments for what they are worth. Joe led the first pitch and placed a small nut in the right hand hold needed to pull your feet up into the dihedral. Placing this nut was a long reach, strenuous and required a few tries and some rests in between. The first pitch still has the fixed nut at the top of the crux dihedral. Joe also got a good nut below this and slung the jug horn. I led the second pitch and thought the gear was mediocre. One could place cams in the pin scars but these would take away the only handholds. I placed a marginal nut in the btm of the larger hold to leave some room. Before making the traverse right a small nut/RP can be placed in the thin crack on the left. Placing the small cam in the horizontal (#0 Friend) wasn't that bad, but the move after that was the hardest. I traversed straight right to the arete and found quite a bit of lichen, perhaps up a move or two and then to the arete is the right way. As for the potential fall on the belay, the belayer could tie in with a few feet of rope and then swing to the right out of harm's way if the leader falls near them. On the 3rd pitch Joe and I both hand traversed the lip with feet down low instead of trying to grovel sideways. The #4 Camalot is very nice to have here. If you're tall (I'm 6" 2"), you can place or clean the #4 from the belay. The short crack after the grovel is also 9, steep with smooth feet but good jams. The last pitch was 8-8+ and very nice. It is good to have 3 or more cams in the 0.5-0.75" Camalot size for the middle and upper part of the crack. I ran out of those and had to overcam a #1 Camalot in the final crack. From the top, traverse 10-15 feet right to a bolted anchor. There is also a single bolt on a boulder a few feet above this anchor. From there, 2 single rope raps will get you to the ground.
Nov 6, 2007
There's a fixed nut to protect the P1 real crux moves after the jug. The nut has been there over a year. It's been tested... P2 is spicier than I remembered. The small cam in the horizontal is tough to place and very shallow, hanging in on a bump in the crack.
Dec 17, 2006
We got on this route today, mid-40s with a frigid, biting wind, so we rapped off at the second set of anchors, frozen. The move into the P1 crux corner can be very well protected, but be sure to dress your runners so that they're out of your way as you pull up into the corner. Once you reach the jugs above, the real crux begins... don't miss the #00 Metolius TCU to your right which Jon Sargent mentions above, the only pro as you stem high and wide using thin crimps to get you up onto the slab. Be sure to place a small stopper as you head right above to the anchors to protect your second from a big swing. We will be back to finish this route!
Nov 19, 2004
We also did a variation on the second pitch (see Jake's comments above). From the anchor at the top of the first pitch, continue the traverse right. There are some decent finger underclings, and you can get a medium cam in, then it heads up after about 12-15 feet. The rock seems a bit brittle here in places, and it's fairly dirty, but slam a small wire in and head up and it's worth it. You will gain an arete from which you can see your belayer again--s/he's right below you--and you can get in your smallest cam for pro. Easy climbing from here to the ledge beneath the third pitch. I thought this was to be the most exciting pitch, but then I went on to climb the rest of the route, which continued to be fantastic. Good stuff! Three stars! Look for the rappel slings to the right to save the walk....
Jan 4, 2003
More gear info: At the crux, place a big brass nut. Anything bigger interferes with the finger jam. After the first hard move, you can place a medium stopper on the right edge of the bucket. This is good for a straight out pull, but the rock could break. Above is a small brass, #2HB offset? Use long draws, because as you stem the corner you are pulling straight out on these nuts. If you are as stressed out as I was, you might consider the following two placements: Where the dihedral meets the slab there is a tiny "V" slot. You can place a medium HB (#5?) sideways. After you step up left you can get a good aluminum HB offset (#8?) to your left at hip level. Use a long sling. A regular nut probably wouldn't work here. Can you tell I like the HB offsets? I really like the aluminum bigger ones. I've been using the smaller brass ones since they came out. I also really like the offset cams. I was given the 3 smallest Metolius offset cams for a present and use them all the time. The second "9s" pitch is more like 8pg. You can get good cams in the corner and a tiny cam in the horizontal as you move right. Another cam on the arete and a brass nut back left in the corner makes this very safe. For the "crawl" pitch, a #4/purple Camalot would make it very safe. Smaller cams can be placed further left, but you would be facing a ledge fall, or worse if your foot gets stuck and you land on your head. If this pitch is 10a, it must be the crawl that is the crux. The hand crack is very easy. There are two new bolts at the end of the hand crack that you can rap to the ground from with a 60m rope. It felt a little silly to do the crawl and then rap, but we were cold.
Dec 21, 2002
From the ground, this climb just looks ok; however it is great, a must do in my opinion. The last pitch looks like a walk up after the short hand [crack] section, but there is good climbing from top to bottom.
Sep 29, 2002
Great route! I would suggest doing it in two pitches, [especially] linking one and two. A fall on the second pitch would send the leader directly into the belayer. As for the crux, I was able to protect the initial move into the corner with a solid # 3 RP placement and found what was a solid #00 TCU (grey) placement to [protect] the move exiting the corner. 1 long [rappel] with a 60 meter rope (the anchor is slings, climber's right after topping out) and a bit of down climbing gets you to the gully where Jolt Cola is located.
Sep 23, 2002
Great route. Stiff for even the 10b rating. You can definitely get a wire or Alien in the crack at the crux. It's strenuous. It's a wee bit awkward & committing to move up onto the slab. The second pitch can definitely be protected on good gear with wires, Aliens. It's a long way to walk off this bugger.
Mar 5, 2002
Jake Martin-- There are some great variations that make this climb go at 9+ or 10a. As described in George's description, at the first pitch crux, you can go up a weird hand traverse left(the route Center Direct), clip a bolt and then move up and right to the bolted belay. This is kind of runout, but climbs on fairly easy slab. At this point, (the belay) you can go up the 9s corner, left on two bolts, or the variation we did, which is traverse directly right. A bomber yellow alien comes 10 feet off the belay, then continue right on some balancey slab (more bomber gear--keep your eyes open) until you see the a bolt line running up (this bolt line is also visible from the belay) on the right side of the crack/block that is usually accessed from the left (via the normal route). These bolts are only 5.9. Follow them until you reach the crack and onward to the top!
Sep 24, 2001
- Right Gully
- Aging Time
Don't link the 5.9 crack otherwise, the rope gets stuck in the crack and causes bad drag.
Oct 23, 2017
- Decade Dance
- Elephant In The Room
Not sure the lower section of the route will ever clean up nicely, but I managed to pull off the right hand sidepull/pinch block @ the 3rd bolt. The left hand undercling used to get to the block will likely go at some point, as well as the large flake shared with Vaso, especially the way it's loaded for elephant. It still looks climbable, albeit likely harder; I had no interest trying though.
Apr 3, 2017
Nice climbing with bouldery crux sections. Worth the hike up for sure. 13b.
Dec 27, 2014
Agreed. Very sustained and bouldery. A bit chossy compared to its popular neighbor, but it should clean up nicely with more people climbing on it. It's very strenuous hanging the draws on this one. I recommend climbing either Vaso or Hypertension to get the draws up. You will want some extended too for easier clipping. Get 'er done!
Dec 6, 2014
Great climbing - go check it out!
Dec 9, 2013
Really quality route for BoCan, more folks should go do it! Props to the Joshs for this contribution.
Oct 28, 2013
Really fun climbing, and unlike the typical Boulder Canyon fare, it's not a heinous one-mover. I think it's somewhere in the .13b/c range, but it's always hard to say for sure. Great "find" by Josh as the route sits right next to the uber-popular Vasodilator. Lazy bottom feeders (like myself) are indebted to all the guys like Josh out there developing quality new routes!
Nov 15, 2012
- Ginseng Rush
Stemming is aid. A yellow TCU works well up high.
Dec 5, 2017
I led the first ascent of this climb in 1985. It had a fixed copperhead & fixed nut to start. From the crux at 4th bolt up to the finish on a big ledge, the climb was protected by removable gear placed on lead. The exact piece had to be placed correctly from a strenuous position. I led it after top roping it & inspecting the gear on rappel. By 1993, the poor fixed gear was gone. I decided to retro bolt it, as it had seen very few ascents, but has very interesting climbing. It is far better as a sport route. The original finish that climbed a moderate large detached flake leading to the big ledge, is avoided as a sport route. It joins Jolt Cola instead.
Mar 24, 2017
Really powerful climbing for most of the route. Quite a bit harder than JC next door. Small gear at the top not a bad idea, I didn't have any. Must have been one heck of a ride back in the day with only 2 bolts! yikes!
Dec 21, 2007
I agree, this a great climb and much harder in my opinion than its neighboring climb, Jolt Cola (direct start), which is also rated 12a. As you know, getting to the first bolt (w/o the gully stem) requires 5.11 climbing on somewhat dirty, lichen-covered rock, with the first bolt well above the talus-filled gully. Stemming across the gully is still somewhat sketchy and it eliminates the first 10_15 feet of face climbing. In my opinion, the climb would be vastly improved by adding a bolt to the start. I understand that it was originally led on gear in 1985 and subsequently retro-bolted in 1993 by Mark Rolofson. Normally, I would never want to retro-bolt a climb originally led on gear; however, since it's retro-bolted already, I though it would be an improvement to add a bolt and not mess around with stick clips, gully stems, and unnecessary risk. The climb already has a _spicy_ run-out between bolts 3 and 4, and 4 and 5; therefore, I don't feel the nature/character of the climb would be altered.
Sep 12, 2002
The first bolt can be clipped from stemming across the gully. One can start here or from the ground (which is more difficult).Good route.
Sep 12, 2002
- Hypertension
12b in the guides; I followed Rolofson's. "a" is more in keeping with things like the Ticket, which actually seems quite a bit harder.
Jul 15, 2004
Both quality and difficulty assessments are compared to other one pitch Boulder Canyon sport climbs. This pitch attains surprisingly exposed postion while its difficulty increases with each bolt. Could be very photogenic from the Conan's ledge. Very closely bolted in the upper section -- watch out for z-clipping. Note: the gully at the base is currently quite loose. Be very careful in it if there are people around the base of Jolt Cola and nearby routes.
Jul 15, 2004
After a chossy start, the quality of both the rock and the moves increases, but 12b??!
May 3, 2004
Not at all. This is fine line and perfectly natural.
Oct 15, 2003
"This felt a bit like the lines at Clear Creek's Dog House." What's that, chipped and overgraded?
Oct 15, 2003
- Jolt Cola
Well worth the short, steep hike. There are excellent footholds almost wherever you want them. I found no fewer than four no-hands rests, as well. Soft? Hard? Grades seem insignificant on routes with such high-quality movement. Felt harder in the rain, if that answers the difficulty question.
Aug 15, 2014
Link it into the roof above for a fun full-value pitch! Might want to rig a tension rap to save your rope though... anyone know what that upper roof pitch is? is it P2 of this or another name? thanks!
Nov 13, 2009
This is a difficult route to onsight and is much easier the second time. I tried P1 a couple of years ago and took many hangs working through the crux. Yesterday I tried again and remembered enough to RP relatively easily. After clipping #3, I tend leftward and then move both feet up and right to set up a layback. Palming the small, right-facing (and somewhat downward-pointing) dihedral with the right hand, I layback up onto the right foot; then I can clip #4. A delicate foot match and right stem allows you to reach the right crack. This time I also attempted the super-pumpy roof extension, which you can do in one pitch and still reach the ground with a 60m. After clipping #2, I entered the roof by reaching up with the right and getting the tips onto the block. I didn't see the "hidden jug" for the left hand mentioned in the captions of the photos. After clipping #3 from the block, I could get the right fingers into a poor crack at the top of the roof and stand on the block. It's still hard to get over the roof, as I found after sliding off. A stem with right foot gets you over.
Aug 28, 2008
Only did first pitch, sun going down and pretty cold. We did leftish variation between 3rd and 4th bolt. Odd bolt placements here kind of throw off the flow. There were several chalk dots where it almost looks like somebody is thinking of moving the 3rd and 4th bolts slightly left. This would kind of improve the climbing as the clipping wouldn't detract quite so much. First pitch felt pretty accurately graded in Rolofson's guide at 11c/d. Tricky, technical, but nor really too pumpy. I'd give first pitch 3 stars. 4 stars if 4th bolt (in particular) was moved to the left about a foot. Good times!
Jan 31, 2008
One of the better routes in BC. Ridiculously hard onsight for the grade. Once you figure it out though it flows really well.
Dec 21, 2007
FIRST ASCENT: Ken Trout, December, 1993. It took five nights, after work, using a headlamp, to bolt and scrub this ugly duckling just to the first anchor. Mark Rolofson added the finish up the roof, 2000.
Dec 14, 2007
My buddie, Aaron Cloud, and I did this route the other day and were both well impressed with its quality. Well it is an excellent climb, the direct version (going straight from bolt to bolt, in good obedient sport climbing style) never felt harder than 11d. After every hard sequence, which were never more than 2 or 3 moves long, there was an jug to shake out on. A great climb and a good warm-up for the harder routes up the gully.
Jul 17, 2003
The right variation on the lower half (11c) makes for more varied climbing--a traverse right then back left once again towards the third bolt... Watch out for a hard fast pendululum if you come off! I disagree with the route description--that there aren't many good holds--there are. And when you figure out the sequence, it goes nicely. A definite three star climb in my book!
Jan 4, 2003
I just want to echo how great this route is. It's rare to find a route that is fun, quality, and has you thinking from the very first move to the very last...and both variations of Jolt Cola offer exactly that. The 12a variation has harder single moves, but the 11c path (to the right) is more sustained. Great climbing. One option is to lead the 11c variation, then set up a TR on the 12a on the rap if you don't feel like leading the 12. Awesome route! (Oh, and the ratings feel accurate to me, if anyone gives two squats).
Oct 21, 2002
Excellent route, it's not harder than 12a, especially when compared to Respite, The New Ticket, or Ginseng Rush on Blob. I think the Rolofson guide book still calls the direct start 11c, which might be a little soft. Either way, a great pitch on clean granite.
Sep 23, 2002
Excellent tech fest which seems dubiously hard on the first go. Linking both pitches is my recommended approach, however, beware of rope drag in the crack above the roof while lowering off ( rap probably best ). Fun and sustained, it will feel much steeper than it looks....
Dec 20, 2001
Yeah, you can keep going through the roof. I was way too pumped to even consider it by the time I got to the anchors. Supposedly (according to Rossiter) you can climb to the right below the third bolt and avoid the crux. I haven't tried it that way, though. I'd say it's harder than a number of the 12b or c routes at Clear Creek, so an accurate grade might be closer to 12b. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it, unless someone thinks of a better excuse for the butt-kicking I got on this route. Good to hear that at least one other person thought it was hard.
Nov 5, 2001
I think there is an extension which makes for a really long pitch through a roof at the top. I agree with the rating but there are apparently two ways to do it, on the right being "easier." I went left and fell onsighting. I looked at the right way and couldn't do it. Even on redpoint it felt very hard for the grade.
Nov 5, 2001
- Orange Crush
This route is very underrated given its close location to both Jolt Cola and Vaso. The left-facing corner in the middle of the route is beautiful, clean granite with fun moves and cool holds. I used this as my warmup for Vaso virtually everytime. In my opinion, it gets an extra star for the center section alone. Also, I'm not sure about the route years ago, but it seems to climb cleaner than everyone describes it to be. Maybe with constant traffic, as a large number of people use this as a warmup for both Jolt Cola and Vaso, that it has cleaned up some and will continue to get better. All in all, not a bad route and worth getting on if you're in this sector....
Jan 16, 2012
Easy for the grade (maybe 11c?). Although the holds are clean, there's a lot of crumbly orange lichen (very suitable name).
Oct 26, 2008
Fair enough Ivan... and I didn't intend to sandbag. I was using the other similarly graded routes on this section of Blob as a barometer. I agree that Boulder Canyon ratings are all-over-the-place, but at the very minimum a route should be graded somewhat consistently with its neighbooring routes.
Nov 1, 2004
Joe Collins said: I disagree that this is 11d, even by modern Boulder Canyon standards. Joe's done tons more hard sport climbs than I have, but I've done a lot of the modern 11a's and b's. Orange Crush is harder than all of those 11a's and b's I've done (eg, Scientist and Morpheous and others on Plotinus, the 11a's and b's on Sleeping Beauty, Free Willie and others at Animal World), Divination and Hunky Monkey on Lost Angel, Rush and Rage Against the Machine on Wakeup Wall), Schizofrantic on E. Blob (to list more than a few). Also felt Orange Crush was harder than Hike for Y2K on Blob Slab, rated 11d. If you're comparing to Eldo or Boulder Canyon trad standards, then I'd certainly agree with Joe. The ratings are pretty messed up in Boulder Canyon, even comparing just Boulder Canyon sport with Boulder Canyon sport, not to mention comparison with Eldo (which is tricky due to the difference between trad and sport).
Nov 1, 2004
I disagree that this is 11d, even by modern Boulder Canyon standards. We did this line last January not knowing what it was, and thought it was 11a/b tops. Other Blob sport routes such as Respite, Jolt Cola, Bearcat, and The Ticket should provide reference as to what 11d/12a should feel like. Even the first pitch of Jolt Cola (11b/c) seems considerably harder.
Nov 1, 2004
- Respite
Agreed. Trickier than anything on Jolt Cola. Crux section doesn't have many feet options which makes you on your arms more. Overall, worth doing if you're in this section. The stone is really good just like on Jolt Cola....
Nov 2, 2014
A trickier crux than anything on Jolt Colt. If you bring some med.-sized cams along and don't lower from the 2nd pitch (I've always linked the two), it is possible to climb the final and best pitch of Where Eagles Dare. Cool combo.
Dec 6, 2012
Fucking brilliant. An awkward pitch, indeed. Didn't climb the second pitch, but the first is weird and Kung Fu balance-y and humiliatingly difficult to score on-sight, as Archer says. Takes far more finesse than fitness. Climbing it, though, is a thing of beauty and grace and contorted, good-god fun. Give it two stars, but two stars well worth investing in. Haven't exactly sent it clean, myself, yet. But not exactly thrutching and cussing, either. I see red point in three more tries.... Meanwhile, give 'er a try. Makes a good "think" project for the budding 11+ climber.
Jan 21, 2010
If you carry a blue and green Alien, you can plug one of them and have great pro on Respite, rather than the long sling on the 3rd bolt of Jolt issue.
Nov 7, 2004
An excellent, thought provoking climb. The crux is difficult to read on the onsight, but becomes quite reasonable once you know what to do. it felt like 12a on the onsight due to the inobvious nature of the crux, but dropped to 11c on repeat ascents once you know what to do. Doing the route in one pitch is the way to go. 98' to the anchors.There is a hidden bolt just above the handcrack and before the first bolt in the bulge. Knowing this reduces the need for the 3Friend/ gold camalot.
Oct 30, 2004
Very tricky climbing. I found this route to be harder than the Ticket, Jolt Cola, and Bearcat goes to Hollywood. The crux can be climbed as a stem problem or a layback off the seam. The stem variation may be easier if you are short enough to get in that position.
Jan 26, 2004
Funky and awkward footwork in the crux. The trick seems to be one of laying away a knob with right and pulling up and into a narrow dihedral, loosing the good feet that preceded. Fourth clip is committing, but after that the line is stitched tight. Decent but not great.
Oct 14, 2003
Some additional info: pitch two is worth doing. Linking P1 & P2 works well, but use an extra long sling at the 3rd bolt. In fact, it's probably a good idea to have a few full length (24") slings. There is an unbolted handcrack on P2 where a gold Camalot works well. The crux is at the roof, ~11a. Done as one pitch, there are 15 bolts to clip.A lower off from the P2 anchors barely makes it with a 60 meter rope.
Sep 25, 2002
- Vaso-power linkup
- Vasoconstrictor
- Vasodilator
Beware big, loose foot holds off right as you step up after clipping bolt 1, unfortunately, exactly the holds you want to use.
Dec 5, 2017
Also where do you guys normally belay from? Thanks again
Jun 6, 2017
I just went up and did some climbing on this route the other day and didn't notice any major loose blocks. I think I know which hold everyone is talking about after reading the comments, but when climbing, it didn't feel loose or dangerous. I was just wonder if any work was done to glue or secure that block in place since those comments were posted or if I just didn't notice how loose it was while climbing. I'd love to work this climb, but if that block is as dangerous as some people seem to think it is, I might avoid the route and find a new project. Thanks in advance for any feedback on the subject.
Jun 6, 2017
Heads up. I pulled a dictionary-sized block out of the undercling (upper rest). It didn't change the difficulty, but more might crumble out.
Feb 7, 2017
Right hand on the sloping shelf right under the draw, work left with the left to the first gaston, get your feet up a little, bump your left hand to a shallow, gastonish-type feature with your fingers in the crack. Now, pop your right foot up on the crimp underneath your right hand (you can't miss it), and press up on your right foot, using that shitty intermediate with your right to go all the way to the base of that pebbly crack thing with your right (iron cross position here). Match it with your left, and use sidepulls on the right to work up to get into the undercling. Good image here of where your left hand is, and your goal with the right: nomadinrifle.files.wordpres…
Apr 7, 2016
Just wondering if somebody could give me a little beta on the part right before the egg. I'm struggling! HALP!
Apr 4, 2016
I have no idea which block Paphs was wiggling. There is a block between bolts 5 and 6 (IIRC) that is cracked all the way around, but I couldn't make it move today.
Sep 18, 2015
Got on this today for the first time, lots of wiggle on the big block. Felt like it was going to pull out, and I was being gentle. I think someone should go up and remove it. Would badly hurt the belayer if not kill them.
Jul 18, 2015
Just sent this on Saturday (May 16)! I have worked the route off and on for a couple years. Early on, I remember being able to wiggle the loose block when hang-dogging beside it, but it didn't wiggle when pulling down or hand-jamming to the right of it. This Saturday, I couldn't get it to wiggle at all. I didn't notice any glue or anything different about it. Maybe it's the time of year? Also, I think that removing the block could potentially make the route a bit easier, instead of harder, since it looks like it may result in a decent-sized scoop that may make for a better rest. Who knows. Either way, be mindful of the rock and your belayer below. Shaun
May 18, 2015
Big thanks to whoever provided the draws/gear on Vaso! Just FYI - I removed and replaced a frayed dog bone and two worn carabiners (one at the crux bolt on the egg and one of the two anchors). If you want your gear back, PM me and we can meet up.
May 17, 2015
I established this route in December 1993. It is still one of the best first ascents I've done. It don't remember leaving any loose rock on the route. I did pull off a huge, 5 foot block at the base of the climb. I was worried as the block crashed downhill, but it stopped long before the road in talus & boulders. The big concern about trundling here is making sure no one is walking up the hill. Pick a cold weekday, and rap in from above. Look to see if there are no cars in the parking lot. If you climb up the route and lower, then pull the rope up. Lower yourself. Move your belayer, gear, & dogs way up the gully above "Hypertension", because rock can explode when in hits the wall or ground. The last time I was on the route was 2008. I can't believe how popular it's become. Unfortunately there aren't more routes like it in the canyon.
Jan 24, 2015
I did this route years ago, and I did it again recently. It was, is, and always will be super classic. It may be the best route in the canyon at any grade. It's very sustained, super pumpy and has back to back cruxes on bullet hard stone. I agree, there are sneaky rests all over it. Don't be cheating and hanging a 4 foot runner from the top of the egg, taking that fun and airy whip is what makes the route! My first redpoint years ago I skipped that last bolt at the top of the crux and ran it out to the top. Big whip potential and nothing short of exciting... and to the loose block debate, this has been loose from the beginning. Nothing has come off or ever will come off, and the route has seen thousands of ascents. This route is probably one of the best in country at the grade. Do it and you will see....
Nov 1, 2014
"Would love to hear from someone who has been on the route both years back and recently to see if the block has gotten looser." Yes, the block is loose compared to 2003, and to be honest, I do not even remember it being an issue back then. I suspect that if it comes off it might cause serious harm to the belayer and anyone else in the gully. Looking at the fall line, it would likely hit the ledges below the first bolt and either bounce across and/or break-up into more pieces. Losing the block will result in a harder line. The block is used to initiate the second of three cruxes on the face, without the block I do not know what will be available for feet.
Oct 8, 2014
Slim is exactly correct about gluing. In general, if you want to glue something, you really need to get both bonding surfaces very clean or the glue job won't last and then you have made a real mess that is really hard to clean up. The best case scenario usually involves removing the piece of stone if possible so that you can get into all of the little crevices, etc. and thoroughly clean all of the surfaces. You then let everything dry well and only then do you apply the glue. If you have never done this, please don't make this your first attempt. Moreover, once this thing is off, the best thing to do would probably be to figure out whether not having the hold drastically changes the climb. If it does, well then you can go about reattaching the piece if need be. If folks really think this needs to be dealt with, then perhaps some experienced volunteers will come forward to help figure this out. Until then, please don't go up there and squirt two tubes of glue into a dirty crack.
Nov 1, 2013
One of the key things for an epoxy/glue job is that the surfaces need to be clean. I think it would be pretty tough to get inside the crack and get it well cleaned(?).
Nov 1, 2013
What is the status of said "loose block"? I was up there this week (1.15.13) and didn't see anything remotely loose or sketchy on the entire route. Great route by the way!
Jan 17, 2013
I was up there yesterday (Sat., April 21), and think I left my jacket and maybe a long sleeve shirt as well. If anyone grabbed them, please send me a message. It would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Apr 22, 2012
Slim's answer to the loose block is most likely the best. We have used this process in other places where a trundle would cause considerable harm. 250 lbs is not an excessive load for a lowering belay from the top anchors. It has worked out best for us to redirect the ground belay through a one or two biner system that takes the load off the belayer and serves as 3:1 pulley system. One person climbs up and lowers to the block, places the bolt/hanger, and clips themselves off above the block and off the top anchor (in the unlikely event that it blows). A static line is best for lowering the block so that when it is pried off it will not generate the momentum that would arise from a lead line. The ground belayer then lowers the block using a Grigri.
Jan 3, 2012
One possible method might be to drill a bolt into the rock and attach a hanger, then basically lower it off with a rope. If Alex's size estimate is correct, it is probably around 250 lbs or so. If you cut this thing loose, it could pinball down the gully and then shoot down the hillside (maybe to the road, not a lot of trees to stop it).
Jan 3, 2012
I third the comments regarding the loose block, it's as sketchy as any block I've seen on a well-traveled route. It's definitely headed to the ground one way or another, might even happen with another freeze-thaw cycle. While it may change the route considerably when it comes off, I'm not convinced that it could be safely fixed to the wall by glue or bolt. It looks to me as though it's likely to head straight at the belayer if it gives way (the rope also diagonals directly across it). I propose trundling as safely as possible. It would be nice to have some community weigh-in to reach a consensus on the matter. Exercise caution if you do elect to climb on the route while it's still in place.
Jan 2, 2012
I agree with Alex's post about the loose chunk of rock. It is really sketchy (just knock on it) and will probably come off sometime soon. I think trundling it will dramatically change the route and make it waaay harder. Trundling the rock is also really unsafe unless there are spotters below making sure no one is hiking anywhere nearby. I think bolting it to the wall is the best bet, but some Boulder Canyon chossaneers might have a better idea.
Jan 2, 2012
Hadn't been on Vaso since '97 or so...and yes, I think a couple well used holds aren't there anymore. Speaking of loose holds, a big heads-up to any future suitors - in between the 5th and 6th bolts is a BIG timebomb ready to go! It's the last good rest before getting up into the scoop/shelf crux. You can right hand-jam and left wrist wrap the block to rest, clip the 6th, etc. It could cut your rope, take out your belayer, and definitely wipe out anyone lower in the gully like bowling pins. I'm not a huge proponent of glue, and I don't think it will work anyways. The block is 100% fractured entirely around (36"x12"x6"?) and will move if you try to rock it. We could pry the whole thing off, but I'm certain it will dramatically change the climb (but nature is not timeless anyways). Bolt it to the wall with a 10" bolt? Ha, isn't there some other climb in BoCan that has that?? Anyways, there you have it. Tread lightly and watch out!
Nov 29, 2011
Shameless beta request . . . what's the "secret" to the egg moves? If someone doesn't mind sharing beta, I would truly appreciate a PM. I can get through it but "my way" feels way hard and just plain wrong. Amazing route with a lot of very cool movement.
Jul 31, 2010
The flake side pull between the 8th and 9th bolt gave way and is now gone. so instead of going out left you can mantle straight up from the clipping hold at the 8th to the clipping hold at the 9th. I don't think it changes the grade any. Happy sending.
Oct 21, 2007
The draws that are hanging... are they new??? They look like it.... I am trying to make this my first 13a.... These aren't the draws from earlier this year??? I.e made it through winter???
Aug 13, 2007
I was on Vasodilator in mid-December and haven't return since due to the recent snows. At the time, there were draws in place on the whole thing, which is certainly convenient; however, the draws are in truly horrific shape. I've never been more certain that a quickdraw would break if I'd fallen on it. A few of the draws are in decent condition, some questionable, and some down right life-threatening. I recognize and adhere strongly to the rules about respecting others' in situ draws on routes, but, in this case, it seems irresponsible to leave these potential time bombs open to the public. As far as I know, the draws are still there (as of 1/8/07). I would vote to remove them as soon as the weather allows climbing in the canyon again. If you did at any point leave draws on the route, go get them and throw them away (maybe not the biners). If they're there later when it warms up, I might have to make an executive decision and get rid of them - they're more in the way and potentially dangerous than helpful. Imagine climbing Vasodilator with a string of small cams and RPs instead of bolts and you get the idea.
Jan 9, 2007
So, the sling/tat/satanwebbing talk is super important, but what I'm wondering about is what hold you people clip the last bolt from. The finger lock? The sloper left of the finger lock? The Crystal? It felt like I was heading too far right when I followed the chalk up the arete/egg. Seems like it would be quite a swinging fall from over there. Any tips? Oh and as of now there is no webbing on that bolt so if anyone's been holding back from a webbing-tainted redpoint it's sending time for you! Thanks.
Jul 3, 2006
My RP in 9/04. Enduro 13a.
Oct 21, 2005
Changed my mind; some of the holds that were there in 1996 aren't there anymore.
Oct 17, 2005
Awesome steep pumpy climbing to a difficult crux at the end. Great job by Mark Rolofson.
Dec 7, 2004
In regards to the webbing on the last bolt most people use it to pre-clip before doing the crux sequence and not as a point of aid. Two years ago I asked Mark if he was willing to reposition the second to last bolt down and right which would have prevented either the presence of webbing or repositioning the last bolt, Mark's opinion is that the bolts are fine where they are. I respect that, but also be aware that as long as people continue to work this route, the webbing will continue to be present, whether it gets repeatedly removed or not! Instead of complaining about the unsightly view of a piece of webbing blowing in the wind, perhaps folks could be more constructive and rebuilt the approach gully, which is far more unsightly. I have done some minor landscaping work in the past with boulders and wood present, but I believe that this effort could be better taken up by one of our organizations, as an Adopt-A-Crag event.
Oct 3, 2003
Confession is good for the soul, right? I was working on this route in the spring of 2000. While working on the egg portion on lead, my partner and I took several very dangerous falls. When we fell fairly high on the egg (which is easy to do), we'd swing down and sideways, with our legs clipping the rope below the bolt. That caused us to windmill out of control and in one case I nearly whacked my head on the rock. I thought it was very unsafe, so I stick clipped the bolt above the egg. I then came back and placed the long sling to allow clipping from below and largely eliminate that problem. I left it there after I finally sent the Violator (took a long time and a lot of belayers) because a friend wanted to work it. I am not sure whether the sling up there is still the same one. I would think it has gotten frayed from whipping around in the wind. I did not think it was an eyesore since hardly anyone can see. Anyhow, that's the story. I think most people would be grateful for the long sling (or the addition of a bolt). But, if someone wants to remove it, I certainly wouldn't fight about it -- just warn people. Done. Tom Isaacson
Jul 24, 2003
Adam, the difference between the tat and other garbage, is that the long sling serves a purpose, and has been placed intentionally. On this route, in that location, it is extremely useful for those that don't flash 5.13. The bolt is in a good location for the red point. IMHO, moving the bolt would be a mistake. Whipping off the crux is clean and fun, but most folks probably were gald to have the sling to yard on, so they could clip the bolt and work out the moves. I think you should leave this one alone. And,..if u take dat tat, is will be back. Adam, why do you even bother to ask others for their opinion? I offered my opinion after you requested feedback in this public forum. Two of three people that responded said they did not have a problem with the sling, and then you post "so I'm going to take it down." It sounds as is you feel strongly about this webbing, and are going to do what you want anyhow. Go for it. Next time just do it, without the disingenuous call for other's opinions and all the preaching. BTW, I didn't put the sling up, as you insinuated in your last post.
Jul 21, 2003
Trim the phat (tat, that is). 1. The first or second time I got on this route, the tat was windblown around the bolt it is tied too, and I couldn't even reach it. 2. The bolt is harder to clip after you've pulled the crux with that mess of tat on there. 3. The fall off the crux is a blast. Nothing but air!
Jul 18, 2003
The long sling is definitely useful for getting the rope up and/or working the moves on the crux. Unless your name is Sven, and/or you have had the satisfaction for the flash of this fine route, then you have probably made good use of the sling in the past. I agree that it may be unsightly, but I favor leaving it. That tat is phat.
Jul 18, 2003
This is a great route if want to do a 13a, but I don't have tons of bouldering power. There is no single stopper move, just lots of V3 type sequences. It also lends itself to creative beta and good resting skills. Most of the hard sequences have several options. Tom Isaacson
Jul 31, 2001
- Upper East Face
- Conan
I thought the gear was a bit jingus at the start, which also felt like the technical crux. Maybe anchor in your belayer....
Nov 11, 2009
Old school trad and new wave sport ratings collide: we found this pitch harder than Hypertension which we did immediately beforehand. I'd give this pitch, 30' of unrelenting, overhanging and even thought provoking climbing, three stars if the crux were not right off the deck, requiring some desperate placements. My 11d rating is based on comparisons to Between the Sheets and Dead Boys Direct at Lumpy, both of which I'd done recently. That said, this pitch would probably seem easier at a cooler time of year.
Jul 15, 2004
While in no way dismissing Skip's ascent of Conan, rope solo technique using overhand knots is not entirely as cumbersome as it may sound. By hanging loops of rope from a locking carabiner, it is possible to untie a section and quickly drop it when you reach the end of the active side of rope. Drawbacks to this technique include the added weight of these loops, and the extra distance one would fall before the knot catches. However, there are (and were "back in the day") several better methods for rope soloing, including: a moveable Munter-type knot system; the "Barnett system" using a prussik-type knot with limp yachting-type rope; using inverted Gibbs ascenders; and an opposing Jumar system (which is still used by a well-known local climber to this day). None of these out-dated systems compare in safety and ease of use to the Silent Partner, or for that matter the Soloist, Solo-Aid, or modified Gri-gri systems. Still, no rope-solo device, system, or technique should ever be considered completely safe or fool-proof. For this simple reason, rope-soloing at or near one's limit, particularly on remote, multi-pitch terrain, is best left for those with extensive rope-soloing experience, or better avoided altogether. -SL
Jan 15, 2004
Skip rope-soloed the first ascent of this route in the early '80s, freeing it onsight while using a solo system of tying and untying overhand knots as there were no fancy rope-soloing devices back in the day. This route is a blast! From the anchor it's easy to toprope Extreme, which felt a touch harder than Conan and seemed like it would be scary to lead. These routes get great late-day sun in the winter and are worth the slog up the gully.
Jan 14, 2004
"Extreme" is really good, too, while you are up there.
Jan 13, 2003
- Erki Nool (WGA)
Very enjoyable, tons of great incut jugs, but you still end up pumped....
Nov 16, 2009
Steve Annecone asked "What does the 'WGA' stand for?" According to the FA party, WGA means, "World's Greatest Athlete, from Estonia - 2000 Olympic Decathlon Champion".
Dec 21, 2005
I thought this was an excellent route and would rate as a 3 star in most places. Considering the neighbors, 2 stars. It's continuously overhung from the start to end, and has an interesting crux just past the 3rd bolt that felt 11c or 11d. Even if no move is harder than 11c, this is so sustained that an 11d rating seems right. There's still a bit of grit but it's going away fast! What does the "WGA" stand for?
Dec 20, 2005
This route is a great addition to the wall -- fun moves with huge holds just when you need them. It's a good warm-up for Conan or Extreme; it's a little easier but gives you a good pump.
Jan 14, 2004
- Extreme
This climb, and its companion, Conan, are two of the funnest cracks I have done in Boulder Canyon. If this is your grade, these are not to be missed! The protection is fantastic. GEAR BETA - In the interest of safety, there's a bomber 0.75 BD C4 (or Black Metolius) at the start, followed by a confidence inspiring Green #0 BD C3.
Nov 4, 2008
- West Buttress aka Comedy Wall
- Comedy Works
I did this route again today, and I still think the crux is at the top. There are thin moves below though.
Nov 22, 2015
- Divine Wind
A very nice climb when combined with Wounded Knee to top out. The pro is really good the whole way with small stuff. I have only done the original finish once, a million years ago, on the dull end and I remember my friend Andy Burnham, who would lead anything, commenting that it was pretty dicey. It certainly seemed he had done a load of hard moves before he got anything in.
Jul 6, 2010
Ivan is right about the nuts protecting the crux, however.... a few years ago I belayed a friend leading who fell at the crux resulting in snapping the cable of the first nut, yanking out the second, then snapping the cable of the 3rd nut! (it's possible that both of the nuts that snapped had worn or kinked cables) The 4th piece, a small blue TCU held the whipper. So be careful of what you place there.
Nov 11, 2006
Finally got on this as the first climb of my brother Paul's 4-day visit. A bit too ambitious for me, as I struggled on the 9 approach, got the first hard move into the stem, then hung a bunch figuring out the next moves into the higher stem. Lowered from there and Paul led through the upper crux clean. I was unable to get it clean on TR. Neither of us could figure out the 10d "escape" out L. Perhaps it's at the very top. Gear for the approach is red and gold Camalot and green and yellow Aliens. Then small brass protect the first crux. Paul placed 3 good small nuts to protect the final crux.
Nov 7, 2006
- Far Side, The
There seems to be cruxes both at the bottom and top of this climb. Looks like pockets may have been drilled up high.
Nov 22, 2015
- Night Stalker
The anchor has been fixed; hardware from BCC - please support them if you don't already.
Dec 6, 2015
To address the description and the first comment here: A #4 cam would indeed have been helpful at the crux, which is awkward. Can step out right at crux into 2nd crack and back in to make the climb easier. Multiple #4s? You could place them, but you hardly need them.
Nov 22, 2015
One of the anchor bolts is missing a hanger, but some small cams can be used as a second anchor.
Nov 22, 2015
This is a fun route. I agree that it has a few 5.9 sections on it. I think the anchor is nice. You could walk off, but it is a little dangerous with steep, exposed, climbing near the bottom.
Nov 3, 2013
Definitely a worthwhile stop on the Obscure Tour, and a good warm-up for the harder trad climbs in this neighborhood.
Jan 30, 2011
Quite good and surprisingly sustained, rate it 5.9. The subsidiary flake at the crux is questionable for protection, take Ivan's advice and carry several # 4's.
Nov 24, 2005
- Practical Joke
- True Comedian
The lower boulder is fun but contrived.
Apr 29, 2015
The upper 1/2 of this route is so disjointed from the lower that it doesn't even feel like a route. In fact, we climbed the upper part without even noticing the lower part since there is a huge belay ledge between. It might be 10+ done that way.
May 26, 2011
- East Blob
- Blob Slab
- A Hike With Ludwig Dude
Furthermore, there is also a bomb-proof #1 Camalot placement (or I presume #2.5 Friend, but maybe a #2) in a small, horizontal "pocket" toward the top if you can find that exact spot. Since the climbing is slightly nebulous, you may or may not find this. I did, but my partner at first did not until taking a second lap on the climb.
Nov 15, 2015
If you're top roping this line, an awesome start is to go directly up the white rock below the bolt. Awesome edges that make a very hard looking slab climb pretty moderately. Super fun, probably 10a!
Aug 4, 2013
I agree with Tony that this route is adequately protected as the runout is protected by a super bomber piece. I also used the #1 Ballnut in the overlap to protect the crux off the ground the placement looks really good, and I think it would hold a fall. Really fun slab route.
Jan 25, 2004
If you start left of the tree, you can get a blue (smallest) Ballnut in the pin scar in the small overlap. This Ballnut looks good and survived a bounce test. Above this is very good gear, as Tony says. But, we led this by climbing a ways up the 5.6 variation a couple feet further left, placing gear, and then having a diagonal top rope for the crux moves. If you start from right of the tree, not only is there no gear, as stated by Friso above, but it looks a lot harder, and it's a lot further to the bolt, since the ground slants down and right.
Jan 24, 2004
Pro is not non-existent. You can place several locker small nuts that should hold a long sliding fall along the way. The only really scary runout on the cliff is the one on the 5.10 to the right ("Crack Tack"). The rest have enough pro to keep them "s" instead of VS. You'd get cheese-grated, but a fall from these should not be career-ending.
May 27, 2002
I was able to get a TCU or something in, maybe 25 feet below the bolt. I say PG.
Jan 1, 2001
- A Hike for Y2K
Using my partner's 60m rope, we toproped this route from the pair of cold-shuts that are about 25 feet above the ground. We didn't have much extra rope. Therefore, this route is about 120 feet long.
Nov 11, 2017
Did it again this past weekend and found it easier climbing slightly left of the bolts and not clipping #5 until I was up to it, not below the bulge. It all comes down to trusting what look like very bad feet.
Nov 16, 2015
Got on this thing yesterday thinking it was a 9. Then it started raining while I was pulling the crux. Felt like 11+ to me, but probably the combo of warm-up/rain/ and what the hell and I climbing factors. If it wasn't smarmy, I'd agree with calling it an 11. It's a slab though, so with good footwork and all it should be a bit easier than Jolt Cola and the like. I thought it was pretty fun for a slab. People should get on it! My 58/59m rope barely reached all the way back to the ground (past the anchors 20' up, which were kinda odd anyways unless this was put up on a 50m).
Jun 10, 2010
No one seems to like this climb, but I love it. I think that this climb is closer to 11b than 11d, even if you go straight up (which is the only way I've ever done it). This climb is much easier than some of the 11c's and d's nearby: Orange Crush, Respite, Jolt Cola. Either way, this climb is great.
Nov 7, 2006
Got on this again last weekend. Neither my brother Paul nor I could climb it straight up due in part to end of day fatigue and lack of motivation. Paul instead climbed it left of the bolt by walking his feet up the diagonal crack, barely in balance with small crimps, until he could high step with the right foot onto the hold on the lip a little down and left from the bolt. This is the same hold your left foot ends up on if you climb it direct. This left variation seems legitimate and is perhaps 2 letter grades easier and far less fingery and reachy than the direct.
Nov 7, 2006
OK, well, I am not Ivan's height, I'm 5'10". I thought the climbing had a few 9+/10a spots, plus the crux, which I'd have guessed at 11c. The stemming was hard to get into and clipping the bolt just over the bulge was tough, then pulling over the bulge required some hard crimping and very wide stemming for me. Maybe it would be easier in temps below 80 degrees F, as things would be less slick, but it's still a tough one relative to its 5.10 neighbors to the left.
Sep 20, 2004
For someone of my height (6'2" normal reach), I'd call this 11a/b by trad standards. If you can't reach the two long reaches to key edges, this could be a lot harder. Fun route, with consistent 9 and 10 climbing between the two bulges.
Jan 25, 2004
- Crack Tack
Ament and Pfahler did the first ascent of this route in 1964 and it was rated 5.9, A4. Leo Foster and I did this route free in 1971 and rated it 5.9...just a triva tid bit.
Oct 14, 2013
I did this today and climbed most of Of Human Bondage (#59 in Bob's book) by mistake. You have to keep looking left to stay on route, otherwise, IMHO, that is the most runout route here. I got to the bolt, headed up toward the 2nd bolt (which is OHB), traversed left and up and mistakenly went right again to that 2nd bolt (another 1/4") got a bit above it; then down-climbed and went left again (got pro on the probable original line, and continued right to the anchors. Didn't see a third bolt up high. One of my partners followed OHB and I was impressed.
Oct 16, 2011
When did this become a 5.10? It was easy 5.9 in EBs.
Mar 14, 2007
Another in a series of "diagonal top ropes". You can climb up the right variation, place gear, down climb, and then climb the crux with a diagonal top rope. The way we did it we climbed up from the left side of the horizontal flake on good holds to end up about 6 feet left of the bolt, and then traversed right using good holds and a thin creaky flake to the bolt. The Rossiter guide sounds like the "real" route is a bit right of where we climbed (i.e., the real route is not the natural line). Above the bolt, the gear is good, and the climbing is much easier but interesting.
Jan 24, 2004
This was my first (or maybe 2nd) 5.9 lead. I remember placing a brass nut in a small crack on the left side of a flake right at the top which, if it pulled, would have meant a ground fall. In fact, it did pull, but I did not hit the ground! As I moved left, the nut popped out, leaving me with essentially no pro. Fortunately the climbing must have been only 5.2 ish or so, but I still think it deserves the s rating. Not sure about vs - although it was vs the way I did it, I was also a very inexperienced leader at the time. Anyway, I wouldn't recommend it as a first 5.9 lead, but in retrospect it was kind of a cool experience anyway.
May 24, 2003
I think the VS rating is wrong as well. I agree with the S, however. If you are leading at your limit, you may find it frightening. Another thing is that Rossiter's book shows it starting at two different points. If started from the right as in the book, near the right-leaning features at the right-hand side of a well-vegetated block, and then up to a good flake, there is plenty of pro and the route is probably only 5.8+ or 5.9-. If started at the seam to the left, from the left-most of the two blocks, you will have a short boulder problem to some gear and then a bolt. This is S not VS, the fall would not be too bad, get a spotter and you won't break your skull or spine.
May 28, 2002
No way is this an X route. There are actually quite a few natural placements after the bolt, and even one below the bolt as I recall. I even question a PG rating.
Jan 1, 2001
- Happiness In Slavery
- Left Roof
After finding my original copy of the Erickson guide, this was rated 5.8 by the FA party.
Dec 4, 2011
From my notes: "Looks easy but isn't. Pro hard to place at start, but takes RPs; can get a larger stopper placement after about 30 feet, and before pulling the crux."
Mar 12, 2011
- Of Human Bondage
Good TR using anchors from Y2K. Although the bolts are replaced,and the rating, I doubt it sees much lead traffic. If the line was bolted similar to Y2K to the right, it would be much more popular.
Dec 3, 2017
Replaced both bolts 10/18/15 with 1/2" x 2.75" stainless bolts. The second bolt would not have held a take let alone a fall, it was fractured about 1/2" under the surface with only 20% of the metal left attached (on a 1/4" bolt).
Oct 18, 2015
- Old Route
Not exactly sure which route I was on, but I started below the roof higher up and headed directly for it. Small good cam 12' up then nothing that would hold a fall until I reached a good horizontal crack below the roof about 30-35' up. Not hard climbing, but not something I would have wanted to fall on. Gear bomber after that to the top and the climbing eased off greatly in difficulty.
Aug 4, 2013
The harder variation goes over a bulge to the left. I was able to get some ?able pro with tiny wired stoppers/RPs. I didn't have any cams BITD when I led this, but there's an old pin scar that would take a smaller (0.75"-1.0") camming device. I love this kind of face/slab climbing in spite of runouts!
Mar 12, 2011
- Out Of Limits
We did the left hand start today and it seemed like we followed the line in Bob's book (#57) pretty closely and found it to be adequately protected with a a range of small and medium gear. Good climb! (The right hand start, in retrospect, seems to be what Tony describes above.)
Oct 16, 2011
Most reasonably sane climbers do this as a toprope. It's a great trainer that way.
Mar 12, 2011
- Why Two Kracks?
- Upper East Face
- Blind Trust
Spicy route! The overhang and the corner were fun to work out, a bit run out at top, but it can be protected.
Oct 30, 2016
- DH1?
Somebody who KNOWS where Gray Elk's Big Rack goes should post-up so we can see how much of it we climbed, but I think 80%. We traversed over from DH1 to the top of GEBR belay and worked fairly straight up in 2 more pitches. We hit the OH with the 2 bolts, which seemed about 10 b/c, and wandered up to a 2 ring bolt anchor (100 ft?). The last pitch went roughly straight up (seems definitely left of route 63 in Bob's book) but hit the crux flared crack below the tiny tree mentioned above) which may be the crux, but you can move 5 ft right and keep it in the 5.9 range, continuing a bit left then straight up to the anchors of TYATR, (130 ft?). The last bolt on TYATR was maybe only 13 feet left as I cruised to the anchors. It seemed like a mt route, somewhat reminicent of the ADK's, adventurous, somewhat runout (bolts near each crux) and fun! Our rack consisted of 5 QD, and 4 Camalots, 0.4-1 (never did place the 0.75). A few more pieces for those who don't want to be that runout might be helpful. We then rap'd TYATR with one rope. Fun!!
Oct 3, 2011
Ivan, ah...I see what Lenny is saying; however, the description and the photo didn't quite match what we climbed...even with that guidebook at the base of the climb. Gray Elk's Big Rack (63) in D'Antonio's Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs doesn't describe the obvious traverse right at the start - which is obvious in our photo & describes P2 having a "loose block" - which we didn't see, P3 as climbing "over a small roof to gain a crack" - rather, we found a crack over a bulge and the crack petered out, and P4 "short, steep face" and "11a" - we found no 11 climbing on our 4th pitch. In addition, the photo for routes 62 (DH1) & 63 have a significant gap at 62's p1 anchor and the strong leftward traverse depicted for 63's p4 didn't seem to match either. Perhaps this requires another wander to clarify this. Still, Lenny is probably right.
Jan 10, 2011
Loose Rock Warning: I took a short fall yesterday when I almost pulled off a 18" x 4" x 4" block on P2. I let go of the block (good instinct), fell, and grabbed the rope (bad instinct) and burned my hand a bit. The loose block is on P2 in the left-slanting, right-facing corner/ramp. This is just above the two close-together bolts above some easy trad climbing and just left of a 2-bolt anchor. I held onto the block, which seemed to be an integral part of the rock, as I pulled into the corner from the left, and then pulled straight out on the block as I started up the corner. At that point, the block lifted up several inches, and I took the plunge.
Jan 9, 2011
Lenny Miller and I repeated this yesterday and did the route exactly as described by Leo. It's really hard to decide where to go--the route wanders and attempts to force you to climb hard bits here and there. Most cruxes can be easily avoided. My partner Lenny thinks the upper parts of this route are Black Elk, a route described in Bob d'Antonio's Boulder Canyon guide (which I don't have). For me, the move near the top through a short flare to a tiny tree was the crux. The lower crux through an overhang into a short corner and then right was treacherous due to being dirty. I Z-clipped here which led to some excitement. After the tiny tree, there are two more bolts up and right. I started to head that way but decided that was even more contrived than the climbing below and instead finished off left on Young and Rackless.
Jan 9, 2011
Ron, you stopped too soon. It's not clear whether, after the first 3 bolts, you angled left to the anchor or angled right to a different anchor. If you go right, you can continue to the top past 2 or 3 more intermediate anchors with only slightly more protection bolts than anchor bolts--bring trad gear. This area of the cliff is confusing with anchors everywhere and long, easier trad sections between one or two bolt harder sections. This is how we climbed it: After the first 3 bolts angle a bit right with occasional trad gear to an anchor. Clip a bolt just right of the anchor, step right, and up on moderate but sparsely protected rock to two bolts. Step right from the second bolt to a ledge and an anchor. Continue up moderate trad to another anchor. Step up then straight right at two closely spaced side by side bolts. Maybe 10a. Angle left a bit and up to a ledge. Make a hard move at another bolt, maybe 10b, then angle a bit right towards some dirty orange rock. Climb the final hard section just left of the orange rock at 2 more bolts and continue to the top and the final set of anchors. With two ropes, rap in one rappel slightly right and down Schizofrantic . With one rope, you can rap to the Schizofrantic anchors, and from there, carefully, to the ground with a 60m rope, or rap the route in 2 or more rappels.
Jan 1, 2005
- Enlightenment, The
- Grey Elk's Big Rack
- Long Live Rock
This route is pretty good and provides a decent warm-up. The route takes great gear. Single rack from tiny cams to #2 Camalot. Traverse left after second bolt to access anchors on The Ticket. Hang draws on your way down....
Oct 25, 2017
A good climb that doesn't see too much activity. I've done it a few times over the years. Clip three bolts after the steep 5.10+ corner. It's a mixed route and always feels way more trad like than sport. Last time I did this, I wished it was the other way around...5.11a/b.
Dec 10, 2016
- Mile High Comic Crack
5.12a seems about right on given other routes of the same grade in the canyon feel... a little easier. I thought it was a rather challenging boulder problem to some sustained, albeit short, difficulties above. Good gear abounds. This is a great pitch and another Alec Sharp masterpiece.
Oct 16, 2017
Super good crack, although I don't know about it being a very sandbagged grade. I think it feels about 12a, but who cares about the grade all that matters in reality is that it is very enloyable? Except for maybe the first lock, it doesn't treat the fingers too well.
Sep 18, 2006
Ron Olsen, Dale Haas, and I removed all the tat at the anchor on top of this climb. I drilled a new 3/8" Rawl SS bolt and added chains and links to work with the existing pin and bolt swaged cable anchor. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
Oct 25, 2005
- Nighthawk
Great route barring it's not DRIPPING in excrement. Largely avoidable swaths of feces detract from the route considerably. Also, the climbing is not very sustained but is surprisingly quite pleasant. Single run of cams #0.5-#4 is healthy on this short li'l thing.
Oct 16, 2017
Much better than it looks, more thoughtful than thuggish. I would have like to have more than one #3 C4, and a second #4 wouldn't have been bad either. The start is probably the technical crux and would be a pain to lead due to rope drag and putting the belayer in an unfavorable position. I scrambled up a few feet to the right, eventually merging with the line where I put in a couple of pieces. I then descended to the bottom, TR'd the start, and lead on.
Sep 13, 2014
- Saturday Treat
- Schizofrantic
Fun route! The bottom crux is stiff right off the ground for shorter people but not bad for taller folks. There are at least 3 completely unnecessary bolts. I would recommend bringing a few DMM offset nuts yellow-blue, a medium-large nut or two, a hand-sized piece or two (#1, #2 C4), and a finger-sized piece or two (grey Alien or orange Metolius, red Alien or red Metolius). I skipped at least three unnecessary bolts where good gear was available. Three stars for good rock and fun (if a little awkward) movement. I might take away half a star for unnecessary bolts and bolts next to cracks. I think I ended up clipping about 6 bolts that felt necessary to protect the climbing.
Apr 28, 2016
TR'd this 11/19/06, with A. Wiedmann and Steve ??. The opening move eluded me until Al pointed out that the left hand jam/fingerlock can be augmented with arm friction if you jam it with the palm up. Then it was merely very difficult! This is an interesting route though. A little bit of everything--jams, fingers, slopey face, awkward in places, straightforward in others.
Nov 20, 2006
Did this again today. Great climb! But I did something pretty dumb. I left the remains of my trad rack hanging from the anchor bolts at the optional belay. About 15' higher I regretted that. Fortunately I was climbing on doubles and was able to stretch left and clip a bolt on the adjacent climb with one of my ropes. I suspect I've done the top wrong twice now. Above the thin face upper crux I've moved left using a diagonal hand crack rather than continuing straight up to the next bolt along a thin crack. Moving left seemed logical and led to a welcome rest. Rolofson's topo shows the route jogging left and then back right in this vicinity, but maybe it moves left after climbing the thin crack?
Nov 6, 2005
I'm not sure I would call this a "sport" climb. The mantle out of the trad section is pretty heady. Call it "mixed", and one of the best mixed climbs I've done in Boulder Canyon at that. I didn't think it avoided any obvious trad ground at all. The route does cross an established 5.8 trad line, but this is far from any of the bolted sections. There's a little bit of everything on this pitch. A boulder problem start, steep flake pulling, a trad corner with a spicey mantle, then thin face. Each of these sections is separated by a no hands rest. The gear listhere and in the Rolofson guide is a bit much. I placed 3 or 4 medium stoppers and 2 cams. A single set of cams from .75 to 2 inches should be fine.
Jul 26, 2004
- Ticket, The
A few notes on the route: There are Mussy hooks on the anchors at the top of this route. This is one of the most sustained 12a routes I have climbed anywhere. Awesome! A cool day would help with the sloper grease and slip factor. The first crux is entirely non-trivial. This is where I blew my onsight. The upper headwall after the crack is bolted a little too zealously. As soon as you clip the bolt after the crack, the falls are totally clean and safe. Clipping one of these bolts is pretty cruxy and perhaps unnecessary. The route is continuously steep except for the ledge. Prepare to get pumped! The rock is damn good. I will be back to redpoint.
Jul 29, 2015
Much misinformation by Anonymous Cowards on this website. Thanks Zach for setting the record straight. Here's a bit of history on the route. When the route was first established in 1987 by Dan Hare, Marc Hirt & Tim Hudgel, the difficult 4 bolt start was avoided and a thin crack to the right was climbed to the ledge. The upper face was climbed with 2-3 bolts. When I first climbed the route in 1990, the direct start had been added by the first ascent party in 1989, but the crack above the ledge required placing gear. In 1992, I returned to find 2 bolts added plus a bolt anchor (by Dan Hare). There used to be a fixed hex in a crack above here to rappel from. Around 1996, I replaced the 3rd & 4th bolts with new Rawl 5 piece bolts in the same holes. These were loose wedge bolts that required little effort to pull out since only about an inch or less was still in the hole. They were probably hand drilled which caused a flared hole allowing the bolts to move in different directions in the hole and eventually work their way loose. Then around 1996,Dan Hare added another bolt for the upper crux,which is now the 9th bolt. In 2009, the original bolts had bent SMC hangers that were spinners. So I replaced all of them including the anchor. I also put 1 bolt on the ledge right of the old pin. As for the climbing, it's like doing two short 5.12a pitches in one 85 foot pitch, since there is a good rest ledge in the middle.
Jan 22, 2012
Great route and as everyone said very continuous for the grade. More or less two sections of hard technical face climbing separated by a ledge that you can literally sit down and rest on. The top can be tricky until you find out the sequences. A great climb on amazing rock. I am surprised that the beautiful cratered face out right is not bolted on the upper section. It actually looks more inspiring but a great deal harder. Do this route, you will like it!!!!
Jan 9, 2012
"The Ticket" was bolted by the first ascent party (Dan Hare) in 1992. Rolofson replaced the bolts in 2009 and added a bolt off the ledge. He did call it "The New Ticket" in an earlier guide; however, it is named "The Ticket" in the most recent book.
Oct 9, 2011
Amazing climb! Stiff for 12- by Bocan standards with lots of various techniques. A climb that would be easier in good sending temps to improve friction / reduce sweaty-little-sloper-pump! Oh, BTW there is a bomber bolt 2 feet right of the pin (which is on the easiest part of the climb) so don't let that deter you from getting on this outstanding and pumpy route!
Jun 10, 2010
Definitely stiff compared to other 12as in Boulder Canyon- quite sequential, with a good mix of power and endurance- great route!!
Jan 17, 2010
Awesome route, one of the best in BC. Stiff. This could be a candidate for a retrofit since there are a few questionable spinners. If done, the two bolts that are close together at the upper crux should be combined into one (slightly higher than the first) to change the crux from clipping to climbing.
Aug 7, 2009
This is also a great winter route-protected from the wind, and the sun stays on it until the very end of the day on the shortest days of the year.
Feb 24, 2004
A nice static way to latch the "jug" at the top of the crack is to switch sides in the crack to a layback on the right. This lets you make a static reach to the jug and still keep your waist close to the clip. A slider or loweball will slot high in the crack and be bomb-proof.
Oct 21, 2002
Just a heads up to those folks (like me) that are pushing their limit at this grade. I fell making the move to the sloper jug at the top of the crack (about 15 ft above the big ledge) and hit the big ledge just as the rope caught me. And that was with my belayer watching me close. A fall at this move with an inattentive belayer or an extra foot or two of slack will probably do some damage to your ankles. That said, you could slot a nut in the crack a couple feet above the 6th (?) bolt to shorten the potential fall. This move is probably mid-5.11.
Sep 13, 2002
In mid August, the sun is just leaving this route at 2pm
Aug 18, 2002
I had a chance to jump on this superb route near the end of May and will second the three star rating. I thought there were two fine cruxes, one between clips three and four and another entering the final head wall. Both seemed close to 5.12a with a good rest between. We stayed left of the crack above the ledge which reduced the actual crack climbing to a bare minimum, and while this seemed a sacrilage, the crack did not seem very friendly when taken straight on. Excellent stone, good continuity, lots of open hand forearm pump all serve to rachet up the stars. If only all of the granite in the front range were as nice that on Blob Rock...
May 28, 2002
Wasn't this renamed "The New Ticket" by Rolofson after he retrobolted it (and since it doesn't follow the original line exactly)? Great route.
May 16, 2002
- Vicious Rumors
- Young and the Rackless, The
Great climb, for sure sequences of 5.10 (a-b) in pitch 2 and 3; however, the rest of the route is fairly cruiser. Best rappel would be using a 70m and rapping to rappeler's right from pitch 4 anchor. You will come onto a diagonal ledge that runs down to the right where the second sets of rings are, about 80 feet. The 2nd rap gets you to the ground comfortably.
Nov 6, 2017
I agree with J. Albers's comment that the bolting on this route reflects the ledgy nature of the rock. Both the P2 and the P3 cruxes are right above a ledge. So if you blow the move, you're very likely to hit the ledge. So I think the route is bolted well (not overly bolted), especially for people leading at the grade.
Oct 16, 2017
All of the pitches were pretty fun and overly protected. The first three of which had some short sequences that push the grade to 5.9 where the majority of the pitches could probably be climbed hands free if you felt so inclined. To Second Travis Provin, rapping from the top w/ 60m ropes is comfortable. Just keep right, and look for an anchor on a bomber ledge. Both ends of the rope will be about 15ft past the anchors. The second rap is super fun and the rope will just be touching the ground. If you end up finding the other 70m rappel because you didn't go far enough right, just swing to the left on your second rappel and there is another anchor that you can tie in to finish the rap in 3.
Sep 4, 2017
My second time up this fun route today. Combined the first two pitches then did the 3rd and 4th as described. (Might be a good idea not to combine the last two pitches if you think your follower might have troubles on the cruxes of P3--nice to have a visual and be able to communicate.) This time, on P3, we took the right variation (crack). It looked like bomber hands from the belay below, but it was anything but in the short crux section...flared and fingery. I thought it was harder than the left variation--especially so if you are not a crack climber. This time, we rapped down rather than doing the walk/scramble. No sweat in two rappels with our 70m rope. From bolts at the top of the 4th pitch, we rapped down and slightly to climber's right and found the next bolt station high on the wall behind the big ledge. Second rap to the ground was overhanging for the last bit. It dropped us off maybe 50m above our packs. Oh, a note on that weird move into the dihedral just above the two 3rd pitch variations: the first time up this it took me a good 10-15 minutes to figure it out. This time, I got it almost immediately. I think it is near 5.9+ to 5.10 the first time you try it, then 5.7 once you unlock the really cool sequence.
Jul 31, 2017
Awesome multi-pitch! Just a note for all who are planning on climbing this in the near future -- I just climbed this route last week, and the left anchor bolt at the belay for the 4th pitch (top of the 3rd pitch) was very loose. The nut holding the bolt into the wall was loose and unscrewing itself, and I actually tightened it with my fingers! So if anyone has a wrench to carry up with them (not sure the size), it could use tightening.
Jul 27, 2017
Awesome route! Very fun and secure climbing. P3 is the crux, not difficult just thought provoking. You can easily rap from the top with a 60m in two raps. Angle right and you'll end up at an anchor. It's one more rap (with a fun hanging rappel) to the ground. Knot your ropes regardless.
Nov 28, 2016
Want a free headlamp and/or need karma points!? Climbed TYATR November 12 (first of all, can we talk about that for a second? 70 and sunny on Nov. 12!). Was fiddling with the headlamp girthed to my harness on the descent and dropped it. Orange and gray Petzl Tikka2. It was dark, and we were kind of screwing up the descent, I accidentally undid the hitch down from the Blob Slab a little ways toward the road. It was trail, but not the one we came up on past the main face, or maybe it was just a water runoff and I'm dumb. Go get her and give her back to me, 'cuz you're great! As for the climb itself? Sorry to be a hater, but I thought it was a little overrated. Kind of like 3 pitches of one move wonders stacked on top of each other. The last pitch is beautiful in its way, but the line isn't super proud, exposed, or consistent. However, much like burrito chains, I'm glad that it exists.
Nov 13, 2016
Awesome route, over protected, good belay stances, and easy rappels.
Oct 30, 2016
Climbed this wonderful route today in raging winds (probably gusts to 40+mph). Due to the winds, rather than rappel, we chose to walk off the back and down the gully to our packs at the base of the climb (still in our trad shoes as well). This probably took less time than doing the two rappels into the gully. Something to consider even when it isn't so windy. Or...maybe I'm just an old guy who likes to avoid rappelling at every opportunity.
Oct 17, 2016
I agree with Merlin's assessment, though I found some of the moves towards the end of Pitch 3 to be quite weird, though I might have missed something. Pulling over the weird bulge thing at the end of Pitch 3 was the headiest move on the whole climb. Not super difficult (I think the 9+ rating is pretty apt) but definitely headier than the rest of the climb. To rappel, I had a single 70 meter, and went straight down from the last anchor. If you angle slightly right as you rap, you'll end up at a two bolt anchor with rap rings. I had about 15~20 feet of rope left at that anchor. From there, it's a free hanging rap to the ground. I had about 30 feet of rope on the ground.
Apr 25, 2016
The route is closed for Eagles now, until Aug. 1 or if they nest elsewhere. Signage is clear and the area is monitored. Don't be a jerk and get the closure enlarged by climbing it now.
Feb 15, 2016
I replaced the nut and missing hanger on the wedge bolt on P5. Thanks to the BCC for providing the hardware, please consider donating to them if you don't already as 100% of every dollar you donate goes directly to things like this.
Jan 31, 2016
Missing hanger through the crux! WTF? Was wishing I brought a cam along.... Cool route nonetheless. That flared handjam had me thinking for a few minutes.
Sep 3, 2015
If you do the right variation on the third pitch, be aware that there is a hanger missing on the crux bolt.
Aug 29, 2015
First two pitches feel about 5.8. Fun climbing but not much of a warm-up.
Jul 29, 2015
Great route for someone looking to get on their first multi-pitch climb. A plethora of bolts scatter the route. Either bring a good number of quickdraws or be comfortable skipping bolts on easier ground if linking any of the pitches. 5.9 cruxes with 5.7/8 climbing in between.
Mar 19, 2015
As per the USFS press release, this route and the whole Blob Rock/East Blob Rock/Bitty Buttress and Security Risk areas are open to climbing as of 3/13/2015. Read on to learn more about where the eagles nest in Boulder Canyon, how the annual eagle closures work, and why they are needed. The pair of golden eagles in this territory have alternate nest sites on Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Eagle Rock. The reason for the early season closures of these cliffs is to allow the eagles to select a nest site, rebuild the nest, and lay and incubate their eggs without human interference, and it is of particular importance on this popular route, when closures are in effect, because one of the alternative eagle nests is on pitch 4 of Young and Rackless. As part of a small team of volunteer climber-biologists, we install trail cameras on the cliffs before the nesting season and make observations to determine when and where the eagles choose to nest. Once nesting is confirmed by observations of incubation behavior and/or an egg, the USFS opens the other areas. Ongoing observations are used to keep track of the number of eagles fledged and sources of mortality. Once fledging is confirmed, the nest cliff is opened again to climbing. This is a collaborative effort built on trust and shared interest between the climbing community, biologists, and USFS, so please get the word out. (Knuckleheads who violate the closures to climb anyway, selfishly violate that trust, put the eagles at risk of nest failure, and face a hefty fine.) Climbers played essential roles in the research and recovery of peregrine falcons and Sierra bighorn sheep, and brought the California condor back from the brink of extinction. It is our time to do our part again, and respect the closures when they are in effect, as golden eagles face an uncertain future because of threats from wind turbines, lead contamination, electrocutions, and habitat loss. Rob Roy Ramey II, Ph.D. climber-biologist A golden eagle lands at the nest on the 4th pitch of Young and Rackless while investigating this and other potential nest sites prior to egg laying (see comment below).
Mar 16, 2015
I think it's worth bringing a 70m for this route because it makes the rappels smooth and easy. Notes on the rappels: Option 1: this is the best option and is 2 rappels with a single 70m rope. From the top of the route (P4), rappel straight down. You will not be able to see the next set of anchors as you begin the rappel. Rap down eventually going over a bulge where you'll see a few bolts then another set of rap anchors (Fixe rings). Consider putting knots in the ends of your rope even if you're not normally in the habit of doing so, because by the time you're standing on the small ledge to clip the anchor, you will only have a few feet of rope left (again, this is with a single 70m rope - a single 60m will not make it). For the next rappel, you will make it to the ground with room to spare. Option 2: alternative option that may work with a single 60m rope (I've only done it with a 70m rope but had rope to spare): From the top of the route (P4), rappel down and trend slightly right. You will see a set of anchors on a sloping ledge. Head to them. From the sloping ledge, rap down trending slightly right. You will see another chain/pin/bolt anchor (which you don't use) on your way down before dropping over the leaning dihedrals/overhangs. Note that neither of these options involve using any of the anchors on the route itself. Rapping the route is impractical given the traversing nature of the route and the simplicity of the above options and may be inconsiderate given the popularity of this route.
Jan 27, 2015
What is the bolted line above the second pitch on The Young and the Rackless? It is a long pitch, 12+ bolts, that goes left from just above the 2nd anchors. Starts about 40 feet left, not really walkable from the 2nd anchors, have to rap in from the 3rd anchors. Heads up some bulges then straight up the steep headwall that is perfectly flat about 20 yards west (uphill) of TYATR. Seemed like 12+ to me, couldn't find it on MP at all. Didn't get to the top, two bolts short but seemed like the nothing was above it, definitely nothing was bolted below it; we had to rap to a ledge and walk climber's left to the first anchors of TYATR. Anyone know?
Nov 17, 2013
Crux on pitch 2 did feel more like a 10a than a 9. I did it laying back to the left, which risks a bit of a swing if you fall on lead. Overall a great climb.
Dec 5, 2012
I felt the right variation on the third pitch was significantly harder than the left variation which felt much more like the 5.9/10a climbing of this route. Also, the walkoff isn't as intuitive as you might think. We went straight back from the belay and then scrambled up to the top of the face. You then are able to see the burned out path through the field and then into the gully. Bring approach shoes if you want to walk off. We lapped it twice and found it significantly easier to just rap the pitches. Peter
Nov 4, 2012
The pitch comes at you twice on P3. First crux I'd say goes 5.9+. Second could be a soft 10a.
Sep 20, 2012
I've done this twice now, going up is nothing but fun. The P3 crack option to the right is great (harder of course)! The rap though has been the crux both times though. I really need to discover the two rap option. If you rap the route itself, you have to go down diagonally - probably not that safe for those who have little experience rappelling.
Aug 16, 2012
Climbed this in a party of three and had a blast. Well bolted and fun all the way up. Crux is near the top of P3, in my opinion. Was able to make it to the ground in only one rap thanks to the two 60m's we brought up with us.
Aug 9, 2012
I thought this one was super fun. Crux pitch for me was definitely the awkward slot move at the top of P3. We did the two rappels to the climber's right. Definitely a good move as there were 2 parties behind us. If I were to do it again, I would combine pitches 1 and 2.
May 10, 2012
Wow! First multi-pitch was a blast. Nothing to complain about on this route. It was overly safe with bolts and great rock. The route is straightforward and a great climb. Somewhere between a 5.9 and a 5.10a. Tons of fun. Rappel from top to 3rd pitch (basically left traverse following original route). Rappel from 3rd pitch straight down to two chain anchors (not used during route). Rappel to ground. Be careful, we had a 60m rope and made the second rappel (from 3rd pitch to anchor's directly below) with no more than 2m's of rope to spare.
Oct 10, 2011
Climbed this route today...fun route, not sure about 5.9, maybe the 3rd pitch was 5.9, the rest was more 5.8ish. On a separate note, it appears that someone took my rope bag from the base of the climb while I was out (I am hoping by mistake?). If you have it, please message me. It's possible I missed it, it was getting quite dark by the time we got back. If you find a dark green Metolious bag, let me know!
Sep 19, 2011
Quite a fun route that would make a great intro to multi-pitch climbing for those looking to get into it. I thought the climbing was probably no harder than 5.8 and not very sustained at that. Fun for what it is...a relaxing, moderate, sport outing. Also, a note about the bolts. It is my opinion that many of the closely spaced bolts reflect the ledgy nature of this route. My guess is that the route developers spaced some of the bolts closely to prevent busted ankles in the event of a fall. I know that I appreciate route equippers who do this on 5.12, so I don't see why 5.9 should be any different. Furthermore, I find it a little funny that folks would harp on the bolting job of Mr. Kodas. I actually think it reflects highly on him for his ability to put up routes of widely varying styles (bold versus well bolted). Both types of routes are equally valid IMHO. For those of you who are upset about over bolting, I would be happy to point you in the direction of any number of Mr. Kodas' routes in the Southern Sierra that will surely require a change of pants afterwards.
Dec 20, 2010
Just climbed today. I'd agree with many others in that pitches 1-3 involve pretty simple climbing with a hard move thrown in every once in a while. The crux on pitch 2 was a bit difficult and out of reach for me, and there is a real fun heel hook move on pitch 3. Slab climb on pitch 4 is fun. Overall, I'd say it is fun, gets you up there, yet it doesn't feel too exposed. The approach is a pain in the a**.
Jul 22, 2010
This uninteresting, over-bolted route is severely overrated: three stars? Exposure is very limited and and does not make a for a good introduction to multi-pitch climbing.
Jun 6, 2010
Fun climbing, great views, killer rock -- good stuff. Thanks, Vaino and Mark!
Apr 10, 2010
One rope is all you need for the raps.
Nov 10, 2009
Funny how climbing a route more than once changes your perspective. I climbed this route 3 times in a 2 week period to introduce a few new climbers to a multi-pitch outing. The first time I thought it was maybe a 5.9 for most of the route, but the crux on the third pitch felt to me around 5.10+. I was GRIPPED when pulling up to the top of the 3rd pitch belay ledge on lead. Climbed it again a few days later and was digging the MP.com rating over the sport and adventure climbing guidebook, because a 5.10b it is not. Third time I went back I was so comfortable with it that I soloed it, because I know for a fact I wont ever be able to mark a climb rated 5.10b in a guidebook as a free solo ever again. Super fun route, absolutely perfect bolt spacing when you want it, you get to do all the hard moves practically on top rope(some would call it overbolted, I just call it safely bolted, but we won't get into that here. So, to each their own). A great intro to multi pitch climbing, would do it again any day.
Sep 7, 2009
Fun outing for a multi pitch sport climb. I'm a tad over 5'6" an felt the reach on pitch two warranted a 9+. I'd rate climb as 5.8 for pitch 1, 9+ pitch 2, 5.9 for pitch 3 ( I thought the right hand crack variation was much better then the left variation) and 5.7 for pitch 4. Easy to run pitch 1 & 2 together.
Sep 27, 2008
A fun cruiser route, worth doing at least once... I especially enjoyed the bolted crack on the variation to P3. There is no need to bring any gear, since there are bolts right next to the crack. Maybe that variation should be called "The Old and the Rackless" or "Clip'em or Skip'em".
Jan 28, 2008
I agree that this is not a very sustained climb. P1 (I lead) seemed to start with a 5.9ish face climb which quickly relented to 5.7 then almost 5.2-5.4. P2 (friend lead) started around 5.7 then went quickly to 5.10a/b for all of 10 feet. I watched my 6'1" friend pull right up the hard part and head up to the anchors. Being relatively short, this move was not easy and definitely harder than 5.9. If you can reach the jug on the right, it might be 5.8/5.9. After passing it, the climbing eased up again. p3 (I lead) I went left and found the climbing to be 5.7-5.8 then dropping to 5.0 and a ledge walk. From here, there was an odd move into a slot which felt 5.9 then quickly relented to 5.7. p4 (friend lead) was the best of the 4 pitches in my opinion. It was the most sustained at about 5.8 and required a bit of delicacy. All in all, I think this route would be pretty easy for a beginning 5.9 sport leader, assuming you can reach the move on the 2nd pitch. I couldn't so it would sketch me, but if I was 5'10" or above, I think this climb is not to sustained and felt more like a scramble with bouldering moves. All in all, though it was quite fun and had great views. It provided enough thrills without being too sustained.
Aug 24, 2006
VERY friendly beginner climb... probably a bit too friendly. I think this route is 5.8... 98% of the climb is mellow, enjoyable (massively overbolted) climbing, with 2.5 moves of 5.8, maybe 5.8+ on it. I just hope this doesn't become the new standard of bolting - when a long draw can be clipped between two bolts you know something is off a little... Great eye spying that line, though. My rating comes about by comparing this line with Mosquito Burrito - 5.8 Topless Etiquette - 5.8 Bastille Crack - 5.7 All these climbs seem harder to me than TYATR.
Aug 9, 2006
We did this today and easily got off with two rappels with a 60m rope. (See Ron's comment above). Simply rap a bit to your right to a spacious ledge with two bolts, then rap to the ground. The last 40 ft or so is an free rappel which makes for kind of an adventursome feel to the end of the climb. A knot in the end of the rope might be a good idea because I had maybe 4 ft of rope left when I touched the base. In the latest guide book this is still rated 5.10b for what it is worth. I personally think a newer 5.9 lead climber would find this to be pretty challenging outing.
Jun 10, 2006
Had been waiting to do this route for some time. It was well worth it. My partner John and I both showed up super early and were well onour way up..when the "others" arrived. We both thought the 3 pitch was crux. Left side pitch three was trickier than 9. Also getting into upper corner pitch three was a challenge.
Sep 20, 2005
Not sure what I was looking at but I don't think there is anything worth climbing directly above the route. I went back early this week and saw more rock but it looks very short and nothing but a mere scramble.
Sep 2, 2005
Did this route yesterday and really enjoyed it. It was nice getting that high above the canyon. I'm curious what the route is (higher up) that is visible from the top of the last pitch. There is a crack up there with lots of chalk, no bolts that I could see. Can you link this with the last pitch and rap from the top? The crux on P3 stumped me for a second but once I figured out the sequence, it was solid. We had a 70 m rope and rapped from the top of p4 to the bottom in 2 raps. In doing this, we were not rappelling directly down onto the Young and the Rackless, which is good since 2 parties were on their way up and the other climbs were vacant.
Aug 29, 2005
We linked Pitches 1 and 2 together and Pitches 3 and 4 together with a 60 meter rope. Rope drag wasn't bad, though we selectively skipped bolts. Pitches 1 and 2 seemed much easier, we only used six clips total for both pitches. Pitches 3 and 4 seemed to have a few more difficult moves, so we only skipped a couple of bolts yet still had minimal rope drag. We did three raps down the route, the last leaving us with about ten feet of downclimbing... if you descend this way, DO NOT RAP OFF THE END OF YOUR ROPE.
Oct 21, 2004
We were fortunate to see a huge golden eagle soaring above the cliff shortly after we topped out. The best descent from the top is two rappels straight down the rock with a 60m rope. The first rappel is 80'; angle to the rappeller's right to get to the next bolted rap station. The second rappel is 95'. This leaves you about 100' uphill from the start of the route. Be careful how you pull the rope on the second rappel to avoid flakes and cracks that could snag the rope. Above the intermediate rap station is a steep headwall with two bolts. Thirty feet higher is a third bolt. This appears to be a mixed pitch requiring trad gear to supplement the bolts. Does anyone know the name of this route or how hard it is? I didn't see any bolts leading up to the intermediate rap station.
Oct 4, 2004
A route with a lot of easy territory (5.4) some moderate territory (5.7) and maybe three 5.9 moves. Best done as a single ~75 meter pitch and ~20 slings, or by linking the first 3 pitches (~ 60M) and then doing the last pitch later. We had a 70M rope and simuled only a short amount to go all at once. You skip a lot of clips (we made 19 in all) to keep the line straight and avoid drag, we had almost none but the weight of the rope. It's hard not to give a 250' single pitch of solid rock at least 2 *'s. If it had been more sustained at any given grade (5.6 or 5.10, whatever) or more consistent in character, it would be a 3-star route, but it is more mileage than it is interesting.
Sep 20, 2004
I forgot to add a correction to the post. The tree at the base is dead, but it has branches. The branchless one is 200 feet farthur uphill, and would give you 50 feet of climbing.
Sep 2, 2004
Fun route. This can be done quickly by linking the pitches. 2 awkward moves of 9. We rapped straight down with a 60m and got off in two raps by using other anchors.
Aug 29, 2004
Fun. Probably most efficient to link P1/2 including 12-13 clips & P3/4 including 17 clips. Believe P4 has about 7 bolts & 2 pins. These old pins suggests it may not be a 2003 FA and someone, like Layton?, may have been here.... If you rap with 2 ropes, you can get to another modern 2 bolt rap station about 140 ft below the top anchor. 5.9 for the reach move on P2. P3's move is weird but felt easier.
Aug 25, 2004
For a boulder canyon bolted moderate, this one is good. There are many, many bolts. I even skipped a couple to link pitches, and didnt get scared. At every hard move, you have a bolt (or two) within reach. Much of the route could be climbed without bolts, if you brought gear, thus the morality of the route will create mixed feelings for traditional climbers. Considering the 5.9 rating, If 'Mission to Mars' (solaris) and the bihedral arete (bihedral have been downrated from 5.10 to 5.9 standings, then I would think this route should be called a 5.8+ since it is a grade easier (in my opinion) than either of those routes. There are always bomber holds, and I found the trickiest part to be entering the corner on p3, even though the other cruxes were wet. Perhaps its best to simply call the route 5.fun, since thats what it is. An excellent climber for moderate leaders.
Aug 24, 2004
BTW we carried a second 60m rope with us up this climb and were able to rap all the way down in one rap. This only works if you throw the rope down to the left of the route while at the top and looking down. Have fun! It's a great fun route! Steve
Jul 16, 2004
I really liked that crux move at the end of pitch 3. At first it seemed like you had to do something hard. But in the end, it actually goes without too much trouble. The trick was to push instead of pull.
Jul 12, 2004
Saturday July 3rd, we arrive at the base of this route at 7:30 AM to find a party ahead of us! Damn, this route isn't even in a guidebook and already it is mobbed! It must have been Jake and Annette, who were nearly up pitch 2 and moving quickly. Despite the early morning traffic, we didn't see anyone on this route the rest of the day ... This route is fun and very well bolted. It is hard to rate because the cruxes are short bulges that go quickly once you figure them out. But I could see reach being an issue. The move that took me the longest to figure out was the bulge after the two variations join on pitch 3. This route felt significantly easier than the similar vintage Bihedral Arete.
Jul 12, 2004
Did the climb again today. The right-hand variation on the third pitch felt about 5.9 on dry rock. The flared hand jams at the top of the initial corner were pretty solid for me, but can be quite difficult for people with small hands. The left-hand variation on the third pitch also felt about 5.9 on dry rock. Solid hands and one high-step layback move, and it's over. The moves into the corner near the end of the third pitch are tricky to figure out, but a hoot once you unlock the secret. This is a great climb for the budding 5.9 leader: four pitches that come in at 5.9, 5.9, 5.9, and 5.8 with plenty of bolts. Do both variatons on the third pitch and you have five good pitches of climbing. This will become the classic moderate multi-pitch sport route in Boulder Canyon.
Jul 4, 2004
The third pitch (left variation) felt harder than the second pitch.
Jul 3, 2004
A fun multi-pitch well-bolted sport route. The first pitch starts with several 5.9 moves up a steep headwall then eases up to the belay. Be sure to head up left to the belay; there are other anchors up to the right, but they are on another route. The second pitch headwall felt like 5.9 to me and my partner; the good holds weren't hard to reach. We did the left variation on the third pitch. The crux bulge felt harder than 5.9. My partner did it with a heel hook, and I did it as a layback from the left; both moves felt like 10a, but the handholds were wet and maybe it would be easier if the rock were dry. The move entering the slanting corner up higher was pure fun! The fourth pitch is a nice 5.8 slab with 8 bolts. We rapped down and I tried the right variation on the third pitch, but was turned back by wet rock at the flared hand jams. This seemed like it would go at 5.9+ to 10a if the rock were dry. This is a fine route that will become very popular.
Jun 30, 2004
- Little Blob
- Lost and Found
I was just on this route today. I hadn't climbed it since 2009. I've climbed it several times since 2000. I didn't see any new bolts. The hole left of 5th bolt was there before Tod bolted this climb. It's the reason he named it Lost & Found. Dan Hare had drilled some holes, years before but never returned to bolt the route. This was something Dan did often. There are empty holes on Vasodilator past the 7th bolt. He drilled them 2 years before I established that route. He didn't place one bolt, not even the anchor. This is a fun route with a burly crux. There is a sidepull pinch at the base of the corner for the right hand that allows you to reach the flat edge on the arete with the left hand. The crux is definitely the 6th bolt getting into a lieback in the corner. I was quite baffled by Jason's & J. Albers comments. The rope runs fine if you climb the intended line which moves into the corner right of the arete. I understand that you climbed the crux on the face left of the arête. This must be a bit harder & not bolted to climb this way. I did see the holds out left. Try the intended try.
Dec 19, 2015
J. Albers that's really interesting as it seems you and your partner and me and my partner had opposite interpretations/experiences with it. I'm curious - how do you clip that bolt? For me, I reach up to that flat jug on the arete with my right. I have to then switch hands to clip the bolt but then switch hands back again so that I can grab the small edge with my left and then up again with the right to pinch the arete. It felt like a lot of unnecessary movements compared to how it was originally bolted and also forces the rope into the crack above (which is why we thought the bolt was placed around to the left originally). Do you just do a left hand on the flat jug and then go right hand all the way up to pinch the arete without the lefthand edge? I could see if your feet are further right, as in around the arete, the rope wouldn't really bother you at all. For me, I'm much more left with my legs and body position overall, as I'm kind of tall and the way facing right felt like it was going to be too scrunchy for me (I didn't touch anything right of the arete). Because of that, when I highstepped up onto the flat jug, I had to keep trying to kick the rope out of the way so I didn't step on it. On the unrelated statement of quality - I agree it's a good route and climbs much better than it looks from the ground.
Apr 29, 2015
^^^ Funny you should comment on this, Jason, because I climbed this a few days ago and was going to comment on how my partner and I appreciated the location of the new bolts. To be clear, I never climbed the route pre-update, but from the looks of the old bolt hole location under the roof, my partner and I both concluded that this bolt was probably moved to the right because the location of the old bolt caused the rope to run over the sharp arete edge. In contrast, the new placements leave the rope running in a smooth line that leaves the rope running out to the right away from the arete edge when the rope comes taut. Don't get me wrong, Jason, I hear what you are saying about the rope running over the hold on the arete because of the bolt that is located on the right-facing corner, but compared with the previous situation where the rope was running across the very sharp arete, this seems like a pretty minor concern. Moreover I found it pretty very easy to scoop my hand underneath the rope to grab the pinch, no big deal. Moreover I think that clipping both of the crux bolts is pretty easy as it is currently step up for a reasonable range of climbers (my partner and I range from 5'8" to 5'11"). As far as the route goes, I was really pleasantly surprised at its quality. It packs some pretty fun climbing into a relatively short section of stone. Good stuff.
Apr 29, 2015
Thank you to whomever updated the crux sixth bolt. I truly mean that. Bolts need updating, so thank you for taking time away from your own personal climbing to do a community service that benefits everyone. However, if you are not going to reuse the same hole, please climb the route and notice where the newly intended bolt will be and how that effects the rope. The "new" clip is now a lot more awkward, and the subsequent sequence is annoying with the rope running over the holds you want to use. Where the bolt was located before avoided these problems - it was set up for better clipping, and the rope didn't interfere with the climbing. You also didn't patch the hole. I guess the silver lining/benefit to that is that we can still reuse the old hole and pull/patch your new replacement eventually, thus eventually fixing this situation altogether. While in general moving a bolt slightly is not a big deal (and sometimes the best thing to do), I think this time it was a big detractor for the above reasons (especially when you take it around the other side of an arete like that).
Apr 29, 2015
Spoiler alert- It's helpful to clip the 6th draw (on the left face of the little corner) with just a biner, instead of a quickdraw.
Nov 18, 2013
- Slow Death
FYI, there was only one FP as of last night.
Apr 29, 2015
This is a fun route with good gear through the crux. I don't think it gets climbed much, I'm sure the name and the published severity grade scare away most suitors, but it's worth doing, especially now that a lot of the lichen has been cleared off. With more traffic, it would clean up nicely. I'm sure it's related to skill (or lack thereof), but I thought it was reachy through the crux. Mild early season jalepeno spicy on my three pepper scale = probably more PG than PG-13.
Oct 27, 2013
- Take Five
You wouldn't want to fall clipping the third bolt, but I didn't have any problems falling between bolts 2 and 3!
Nov 18, 2013
I thought this was 12a and a bit scary: it seemed like you could sprain an ankle if you fell between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. It's not a long fall, but there's a slab to hit. Otherwise I thought the route was of very high quality.
Dec 26, 2004
I cross-checked the ratings with Rossiter's guide. He gave Take Five 5.11b, and Rolofson did indeed have it listed at 5.12a - quite a difference. Perhaps splitting the difference would be close, but there may be more than one way to climb the route.
Jan 21, 2004
It was given 5.12a in Rolofson and that didn't seem too far off.
Jan 19, 2004
I'm surprised to see the 12a rating on this; I called it 11c when we did it. Perhaps a return is in order.
Jan 18, 2004
- Two Minute Warning
I would have to disagree with Tony about climbing this without the first bolt clipped, especially if you are short. If you blow that section -- which is one of the cruxes of the route -- your ankles would eat a pretty big sh*t sandwich. Moreover, I agree with the Mr. Huggins that the bolt placement is probably in the ideal spot as a bolt any lower would be pretty pointless given the climbing in that section. Just preclip it and forget about it. I guess the climbing on this has a couple nice moves, but the bottom is sharp and painful and the top the upper crux has some awfully janky rock.
Apr 29, 2015
With a spot, the first clip is not a big issue. It's reasonable. This is a pretty good route for as short as it is and would be a good short project, because the moves are not obvious but not that hard in reality. 4-star moves on a 1-star length climb.
May 26, 2011
I [definitely] agree, the bolts are a wee bit close together higher up on the climb. Seems unlikely a 5.12 climber would be scared at that point. When I clipped the bolt at the beginning of the upper crux, the one below was above my waist. (!) As to the first bolt: certainly reasonable enough, Joe, and it doesn't take a very long stick to clip it. I do think the first bolt even a couple/few feet lower would be clippable sans stick from the ground and still provide the necessary pro to do the first crux sequence. But, it makes little difference in the end. Its a sport route... I tried to psych myself up to do the opening without gear, to just climb up and clip the bolt, and after a few false starts decided against it. I'm glad I did...the moves are very tenuous.
Jan 24, 2004
Fred seems surprised at the need to stickclip the first bolt. We decided that this was the way to do it, as the crux is right off the ground; a lower bolt didn't make sense to us. Also, I was told by Mark Rolofson that he had added a bolt between our second and third bolts because some "5.12 climbers had gotten really scared". Imagine that, scary climbing!So I went up to check out his bolt; it seems to me that he placed it in the middle of a move(which isn't particularly hard). I didn't chop the bolt, despite some advice to the contrary, as I don't want to be accused of scaring helpless 5.12 climbers.
Jan 24, 2004
Oops. The last paragraph should read "I found the two routes to the RIGHT (Lost And Found & Take Five) ..."
Jan 22, 2004
- Whisper and Shout
The rock is steep and smooth at the start, offering only tiny edges for your feet that are exfoliating, so be careful. Reach a jug after 15'. Be careful not to pull on the obvious hand-sized rock loose next to the jug. Easier and more enjoyable cracks and edges proceed, with good holds and gear. Enjoy!
May 19, 2015
- Small Package Block
- Boulder Canyon Boulder
- Fields Face
Broke the intermediate crimp on this one about a month ago... probably harder now.
Dec 19, 2010
- Left Graham Arete
You sit down start, two hands in large right undercling, and then go up.
Oct 8, 2004
Start matched in the undercling. Plenty of room for two hands.
Oct 6, 2004
Seriously, what is the right hand starting hold?
Oct 6, 2004
Uhhh...let's see. I was a little drunk, details are fuzzy. I think it was left hand, thumb down pinch with two fingers, pinky smear,ring finger half slotted into a divot. Right hand thumb up fore finger and pinky squeezed together in a "hang loose " sort of position. Both feet swing over your head, right foot heel hooks a juju bee shaped nubbin, left foot smears big toe under a razor sharp undercling. Now comes the crux.........flip your nutsack under your left armpit, reach around under your spotter's left knee, and snatch the uber-thin flake out left on the lip and flop up onto the top in utter triumph. You've done it, now you're good enough. Now you can stop this madness.
Oct 5, 2004
What is the right hand starting hold for this problem? I know you start with the left hand undercling, but what about the right hand?
Oct 5, 2004
Finally sent. Definitely much harder than the other arete. A lot of fun.
Sep 26, 2004
For me this still a work in progress. I have to mention that this problem has one of the worst footholds on the planet and makes the Undercling Traverse at Flag look like a boardwalk. One of these days...
Sep 20, 2004
- Left Graham Arete (stand)
- North Face Lunge
- North Face Traverse
Why does the new BoCan climbing guide have this as V2/3? I think V1 would be fair....
Nov 11, 2017
- Right Graham Arete
V8 mi culo. Felt like a V10 to me
Mar 21, 2007
FA was not done by DG and the problem is closer to V8 than V10 (sorry).
Dec 29, 2005
- Warm-up Corner
- Boulder Falls East
- Boulder Slips
- Boulder Slips
I can't justify giving this an R. I only offer PG-13 in acknowledgement of the SUBJECTIVE possibility of runouts for those carrying a light rack. At the crux, I had 5 placements (yeah, that's a game for me) that I thought were "b" or better just before stepping left under the roof. Up higher I realized that I could get what was likely a yellow Alien or green Camalot (or maybe also a few red Aliens) every 6 feet or so. Seriously, I saw 6 yellow Alien placements and 4 green Camalot placements on this route, but I only had 2 each....
Sep 17, 2016
A black Alien and #5 HB offset at your feet protect the crux section pretty well, above that a nut can be slotted in a groove above you that would probably hold a top rope fall. A few feet more and you get a bomber green/yellow hybrid Alien. Overall, a pretty reasonable lead with offset nuts and cams, get on it!
Apr 2, 2014
I top roped this, but the pro looks reasonable. With small cams, I don't think it would be too risky to lead. It would have been risky on the first ascent without cams, unless pitons were used.
Jun 7, 2013
- Brand New Bosch
Solid climb. The crux for me came around/just past the 4th bolt. Make sure to dance around the two loose blocks marked with Xs near the top.
Apr 10, 2016
There's a loose couple of rocks in a crack near the top, but it's obvious what they are and you don't have to go anywhere near them. The climb is fun, takes a little bit of thought, and a good intro to 5.9 for anyone looking.
Nov 2, 2013
Pretty fun route, definitely harder to decipher than its neighbors to the left and right! Was disappointed though to find a bolt near the top within a few inches of a fine looking crack.... Is this kind of convenience bolting really worth it? Gear for the crack is easy to place and bomber.
Apr 24, 2013
Fun route, and it makes the short hike up a little more worth it when climbed with Edges and Ledges. As mentioned before, there are a few loose rocks on this one, the loose rock near the last bolt appears to still be there and is currently marked. There are some loose rocks to the right as you move up towards the anchors as well, but they are pretty easy to avoid. I did have a hold blow on me though right at the first bolt. It wasn't really on route per se, but I imagine I'm not the only person that has done this. When I was directly below the first bolt, and before stepping up onto the actual wall, I had my hand under the ledge down/right (should have known better, it felt a little questionable). When I leaned back a bit to re-position myself, the hold blew completely and VERY nearly sent me tumbling back down to the belay, which is at least 20 feet. Just be aware, and don't do what I did. The distance from there to the ground is enough to wreck your day.
Apr 22, 2013
Fun route, but beware the loose rock to the right as you climb over the last overhang to the anchors (to the right of the last bolt). Also a large loose block right below the last bolt.
Oct 28, 2011
Really fun route, esp. if you finish out left on the face. Perhaps a couple of bolts too many (great gear placements out right), but all in all, a nice route.
Jun 13, 2009
Found the crux to be moving back left and up from the big ledge. Other than that it is mostly 5.fun.
Nov 3, 2007
Another Great route by the bolters over here! The crux is definitely right at the first boulder jutting out. I think it's after the third bolt... can't remember. But have fun and be safe!
Mar 9, 2007
- Colorado Senior Open
The D'Antonio book shows this going to its own anchor... but as Jay points out, that is not the case. The route is good until the top. If you go up to where the anchor is drawn in the D'Antonio guide, the climbing is dirty, loose, and insecure. Also, I think it was above the last bolt 18" that there is a chopper-sharp flake. You can get 1/2-3/4" pro above it to avoid a cut rope in a fall, so that might be worth doing.
May 7, 2017
This is a fun route. We did not use a #3 Camalot in the spot in Leo Paik's picture. We used smaller cams just above and a #3 as the last piece, much higher. The crux is certainly at the spot listed in the picture. This route shares an anchor with Family Guy and Same as it Ever Was and does not have its own anchor as shown in the D'Antonio guide.
Apr 10, 2014
Best route at Boulder Slips.
Apr 8, 2012
We thought about calling this area the Senior Wall or more aptly the Heat Stroke Wall. It can really get hot here, so plan wisely. The climb was named to reflect my entry in the Colorado Senior Open (golf) at the end of this month. In a few years, I will be able to play in the "super senior" division (60+).
Aug 9, 2007
- Edges and Ledges
One of the very best 5.8s in the canyon. Agree that it looks a lot harder than it is.
Apr 10, 2016
This is a fun route which looks like it will be harder than it really is. It does have big edges and ledges.
Feb 12, 2014
Most of the loose boulders earlier commenters mention appear to be gone. The approach gully definitely has a couple of blocks that I'd rather not trust, but you don't have to go anywhere near them, and if you do touch them, they're not precariously balanced. The climb itself is pretty clean and definitely a good intro for a new 5.8 leader.
Nov 2, 2013
This is a fun climb and one of the best 5.8 climbs I have come across in BC. I was just there yesterday, and the poison ivy is just starting to leaf out. So it would probably be safe for a bit longer, but you could see that once its in full bloom it would be EVERYWHERE in the immediate area. In reference to the comment above, I'm not sure why you would belay from the first bolt, that seems needless since there is an obvious belay spot at the bottom of the route. This can safely be done with a 60m rope as well.
Apr 22, 2013
Not bad, not great. Very convenient to climb and go, look out for the poison ivy warnings - the little plants with berries are growing up (April 2012). :) The gully is pretty clear of rolling rocks, it's mainly the approach that will send the rocks downwards. The obvious belay position below the first bolt has minimal places to stand and you'd have to attach yourself to the bolt to ensure that you won't go for a tumble. You could belay from the bottom of the gully way far from the face I guess - we were able to rap down from the anchor to the bottom of the gully on a single 60m rope.
Apr 13, 2012
This is a great fall climb, as well as the 5.9 to the left. Stays free of snow for the most part and gets good sun.
Oct 28, 2011
For a moderate route, it doesn't get much better than this! The spacing between bolts will be comforting for a leader new to the grade and the anchor set-up is really convenient for quick on-and-off. Like Gary said, I suspect this route is going to be quite popular. One of your better efforts, Ron, et al!
Jun 13, 2009
This is a great fun route! Positive holds and nice bolt placements make for a nice lead. Some of the really loose rock in the gully to the left came down on us today, although not quite down to the road and it cleared out the gully a bit, but it's still pretty bad, so a great idea to avoid it, as previously mentioned. Since the area is still relatively new, there was some loose rock falling as we were climbing - just be aware.
Apr 29, 2009
When you're climbing or descending from this route, stay out of the loose gully on the left, and stay on the slab to the right. There are a number of loose rocks in and left of the gully that are too big to trundle, since they might go all the way to the road. Please do your best to avoid them.
Apr 12, 2009
The approach is very loose directly at the base of this route. My partner knocked a few VERY large rocks down almost all the way to the road when he alighted upon terra not so firma after sending this glorious route. Be careful.
Apr 11, 2009
Excellent route at the grade. Steep jug-hauling all the way to the anchors. The crux is getting to the base of the route without touching the Poison Ivy. It's everywhere.
Sep 26, 2007
This is a great route! incredible bolting! Kudos to the FA. Have fun!
Mar 9, 2007
In my opinion, this route is going to be very popular and deservedly so. It is very nicely and safely bolted for the newer 5.8 leader, easy approach, and great climbing! Nice and steep for a moderate with fun moves along the way.
Nov 13, 2006
- Family Guy
The cord on the second bolt is gone.
May 8, 2016
The only cam we used on this was a #3 Camalot above the last protection bolt. Other cams did not seem necessary. The second bolt is a bit high for an easy clip. A piece of cord was attached so you could clip sooner, but the cord won't last forever.
Apr 10, 2014
- Giggity-Giggity
So... where is "Quagmire?" I tried pretty much everything on that wall. Seems to me that the only thing available for the 5.9 designation is this or at least in part this line. I do note that D'Antonio fails to differentiate or place either of these routes, but for to say that this one is 10c (actually about 10b though) and Quagmire is 5.9+, which as we know is harder than 10a... which means about 10b again...and there is good gear for most of this route, absent any bolts.
May 6, 2017
- Haiku
- La Lune
A Metolius No. 7 (BD No. 2 Camalot) was nice for the upper crack. I climbed level with the anchors to a no-hands at the top of the wall, downclimbed back to the cam, pulled it, and lowered off a biner that's been left on bolt 5. This saves your rope over the lip and the headache of getting out right to the anchor. Cool climb! Painful while working the beta (maybe tape your pinkies) but then not so painful when you figure out the sequences. Airy but safe. Enjoy!
Oct 14, 2012
Was this actually lead only on pre-placed gear or was it lead placing the gear? I ask because in the photo of Bob H with the caption stating the FFA, he clearly has a bit of gear on his harness, which is pressumably there to be placed higher on the route.
Mar 14, 2009
- Minutia
Take a double-length runner, and clip the bolt to the left of the start of the crack--nice first anti-zipper piece. I used a #4 BD near the top of the hand crack but probably not necessary.
May 2, 2017
Awesome route. Doubles in BD #1, 2, and 3 were nice.
Apr 5, 2016
This is a wonderful climb that's worth your time. A few of the early placements required some thought to get right, but there are some beautiful placements further up. I think this crack and the sport/mixed near it make this cliff a worthy day destination. Truly some surprisingly good climbs for such a small area.
Jan 25, 2015
This is a great climb! Too bad the crack is so short.
Feb 12, 2014
If you want to learn to climb hand crack at a moderate level, climb this route. You can lace it up and make harder if you want by avoiding any holds outside the crack. Wish it was longer.
Nov 30, 2013
Bad beta on the number one in that crack as I saw one welded there a few months ago. If only I had more time, it would have been mine, but I had to meet a dudette in Eldo, so I had to stop fiddling.
Jan 21, 2011
3-star handcrack on a 1-star crag. Worth doing if you're there anyway, but don't go to the 'Slips just for this climb.
Oct 19, 2009
A nice climb, I very much enjoyed it, and I am still a beginner trad leader. Gear places well, and the route takes nuts nicely in addition to all the cams mentioned before. Be careful if you use the gully up to the left for the approach as the rock is pretty loose in there.
Apr 29, 2009
I climbed the route again on 3/1/08. I found some small loose rocks near the start of the crack, which I plan to trundle when the crag is less crowded. There is a big flake near the top of the route that vibrates when you tap on it, but it appears to be firmly anchored in the surrounding rock. You can get a good #1 Camalot in an overlap to the right, and avoid using the top of the flake as a handhold, without increasing the difficulty of the climb.
Mar 2, 2008
I really enjoyed the jamming on this climb but felt very uncomfortable pulling on the block just below the chains. It sounds like there was an even looser one here. Anyway, if you use less optimum holds/jams around it you can minimize the pull force on the block.
May 16, 2007
I found that for a crack climb in this grade, it is a classic. The block mentioned by Brenda has been taken down late October 2006, early November 2006. Be aware that this line is at a junction between two rock walls. It is no surprise that there is some freeze/thaw stuff on this route.
May 6, 2007
Awesome climbing that would be solid 4 stars if it was longer and didn't have the chossy start to get to the crack. The loose rock others mentioned is either gone or trivial to avoid. Easy pro and really fun moves the whole way up.
May 6, 2007
Watch out for the loose block, about 2'H x 1'W, that's a few feet below the anchor. If you pull on it, it moves. Fun climb in the middle section.
Nov 25, 2006
A very nice climb, takes great gear and great practice for leading cracks. A bit sustained in places, it is no gimme. A climb well worth doing. You may wish to consider doubling up on #1 and #2 Camalots to really feel good.
Nov 13, 2006
4 star handcrack in BC gets one's attention...okay climb, best bit is about 20' in the middle (a bit funky to get into this bit). From a clucker: a set of cams to #3.5 Camalot (or #4 Friend), #9 hex, & wires worked. Funky block(s) just below the anchor makes you think 'ard about pullin' on it. Not quite as good as North Face Center, Cob Rock.
Oct 30, 2006
- Minutia Arete
The route is fun, but the crux section is very short, only a few moves. There is a bolt anchor to the right of this climb on Pumpkin Corner.
Feb 12, 2014
- My Way
Climbed this route today, and the two bolts in question have been removed. I was not surprised by the removal but was saddened to see the hanger-less, half bent bolts still in their holes with visibly damaged rock. Hopefully whoever removed them will go back to clean up their work. I'm no expert, but it sure looked like a hack job. FYI...my partner found good gear nearby, and the anchor bolts were thankfully left in place.
May 14, 2017
P.S. Boulder Slips is NOT dangerous if you take extra yellow Aliens and 1.5-2" (or green Camalot) cams It's absuurd to say it, and maybe it is 'independent' of the original line of Boulder Slips and Jim did that, however.... Given that Boulder Slips can climb the left or right options up top via cracks on lead from the ground (and having done both), it is crystal clear that this route indeed added bolts to the reach-zone of Boulder Slips, and so they are retro-bolts, insofar as I am concerned.
Sep 17, 2016
Well, I think Bruce kinda said it all with one post before this "debate" he lead the route on gear prior to the placement of the bolts. The route not only can be protected on gear, it was, by the FA party. Bruce was clear with me that he didn't approve of the bolts and disclaimed them right here in writing. So, why were people even having this discussion? When did bolting cracks after the FA (on gear) become OK?
May 14, 2012
Sandbag at 5.9., at least by BC standards. Good, engaging route.
Apr 8, 2012
I climbed My Way this afternoon with Adam Massey. We both enjoyed this fine addition. I have climbed Boulder Slips, which is dangerous, and this is clearly an independent line. I have not done Threshold, but that one also appears to me to take its own line left of My Way. While Crusher and Andy have a practiced eye for this type of impact, in my view My Way is a well-protected mixed route and should remain as a popular choice for those of us too scared to send Boulder Slips or too weak to lead Threshold.
Sep 17, 2007
Andy, The lead bolts on My Way do not impact the Boulder Slips route. The climbing line on Boulder Slips is well to the right of the bolts on My Way. People climbing Boulder Slips have the option of angling left to the anchor on My Way; that is the only impact.
Jul 13, 2007
I did Threshold with Crusher a couple of nights ago and ended up following the bolts. Looked at the guidebook later and it seems from Boulder Climbs North (Rossiter) that Threshold finishes left of the upper prow and Boulder Slips (FA solo by Erikson) takes the cracks on the right. In this case My Way is independent BUT having the bolts there still changes the character of both of the previous routes by affecting the runouts required on each. In my opinion having a mental challenge on a route is a good thing, so adding bolts detracts from the older routes, infact it's just plain naughty.
Jul 13, 2007
Hi Ron, thanks for your thoughtful response. Well, from my perspective I'd say yeah, pull the bolts. And if you did I'd add a very big thank you for having the flexibility to be willing to remove your bolts. I would suggest leaving the anchor at the top, as a tree-saving measure (or maybe just laziness...) but that would be your call. But from a climber-community perspective, perhaps we should try to solicit some opinion from any other folks who have done the routes in this area. Anyone else? I think I need to go back and do one or two of the other routes nearby to get a better feel for exactly what goes where.
Jul 13, 2007
Crusher, it sounds as if the Ament and Rossiter descriptions of The Threshold are different in some critical respects. We based our choice of line on My Way using Rossiter's guidebook. We wanted to find an independent line between The Threshold and Boulder Slips, and thought we had found one. But your climb, and Ament's description, make it sound as if The Threshold can take a line similar to My Way in the upper part. However, there is a climbable line left of My Way and right of The Throttle that matches Rossiter's description of The Threshold, staying left of the prow. That is what I climbed when I did Threshold Variation. I think the problem is that it is possible to climb several lines from the stance at the base of the prow, and later move from one line to another without difficulty. It's even possible to get over to Boulder Slips and climb the upper part of that line from the start of the prow. It was not our intention to impact The Threshold when we installed the bolts on My Way. But certainly, the way you climbed The Threshold merged with My Way in the upper section. I can remove the bolts and anchor we installed for My Way, and erase the route. However, I think that will doom The Threshold and Boulder Slips to the obscurity they have enjoyed for many years, with a tedious walkoff (or double-rope rappel from trees) instead of the easy descent from the bolt anchor. Let me know what you think I should do.
Jul 13, 2007
Ron, I don't recall much from when I first did Threshold 20 years ago, but I'm sure I would have headed pretty much straight up after the crux. Did Threshold yesterday. Anything else but straight up would be pretty contrived. I added Threshold to the database. Perhaps others could add some opinions. The route has never been popular, but that's a shame, as it is a great pitch. The new rap anchor on top might help its popularity. There is a tad more detail about Threshold in Ament's High Over Boulder: "After the hand crack, work up the prow and finish up and left with a thin crack." Ament also specifically states that it is only the hand crack that is left of the prow itself, and that only slightly. Maybe we were off-route? I'm not sure where else it could go. It would make little sense to suddenly traverse ten feet left.
Jul 12, 2007
Crusher, I toproped the upper part of Threshold; see Threshold Variation. The line I climbed on that route is left of My Way. See Threshold Variation. Climb to the top of the pillar from the left. Start up the right side of the arete, then step left and climb face and cracks about 10' left of My Way. . In Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook, the description for Threshold says "jam discontinuous handcracks just left of the arete." My Way climbs cracks on the right side of the arete, and makes a move or two on the arete itself. It may be possible to clip the second bolt of My Way from Threshold, but the climbing lines are distinct. I can relocate the second bolt on My Way farther to the right so it would not be possible to clip from Threshold, if that would make you happy.
Jul 12, 2007
Ron, it's nice to have the rap anchor at the top, but the upper three protection bolts are a blatant retrobolting of the upper section of the excellent route Threshold.
Jul 12, 2007
Good climb. I needed to do a blind placement (0.5 cam) in a crack to the left (10-12' above the pedestal above the slot) before stepping left into the crack. BTW, this climb looks like it covers similar terrain as "The Threshold". From the topo in Rossiter, it starts down and left of your route but then seems to be pretty much the same. I can only assume it must climb left of My Way since it is rated 11b (although only a section of 10 is shown on the topo).
Oct 13, 2006
The original route, led by both Ron and me, had two bolt placements. Ron later added two more bolts and chose the name of the route. Bruce
Oct 10, 2006
- Party Time!
The crack on top needs a #3-#4 to protect... and may be the crux.
3 days ago
This one could be anything from 5.7-ish to 5.10a depending on how you go. Going straight up from the last bolt would be harder. Staying left all the time is easier. Careful pulling the rope--there are flakes that could easily catch the rope (as we found out).
May 2, 2017
The rock seemed solid today so most of the loose rock must be gone. This is a good route (not so good with snow in the crack near the anchor).
Feb 12, 2014
I'd second Nick Wlder's comments about the 5.9 move after the last bolt but would say the offwidth boulder at the problem has a move also worth the grade if you stay inside the offwidth itself. There is a loose block about parallel with the first bolt: as you clip in to the second bolt, it looks like a natural foothold but moves a little. There is a hollow flake after the last bolt that felt like it'll definitely come away some day but not today. Sounds like Sarah Meiser's climbing partner may have taken the worst of it off, but it's still fragile. There's also a loose block on the right hand side as you are leaving the first finger crack: you'll see it. Fortunately, it's not even near where you need to be, but I touched it while investigating and it was very loose. Having said the above, this is one of the best climbs in Boulder Canyon. If the area gets a little clearer of loose rock, the climb itself is exciting. If you're a beginner trad leader, having five bolts immediately beneath you lends a certain sense of reassurance. Just be careful to judge rock condition!
Nov 2, 2013
I usually have no problem with a little choss, but in its current state, this climb is dangerous and not worth doing. A hold near the top busted while my partner was on it and sent a bunch of rock down on the belay. I climbed it afterwards and noted there were several more large, loose chunks of rock waiting to go.
Apr 16, 2012
Fun climb. Started up it thinking it was a sport climb and had to lower the rope to get gear for the top. It's weird as a mixed climb. None of the bolts are really necessary as there is adequate gear the whole way up. Should either be all bolts or no bolts (IMO).
Mar 21, 2009
On 11/5/07, I cleared a bunch of loose rocks from the ledge near the top of the route. I climbed the route on 3/1/08, and didn't find any major loose rock hazards. It should be OK to belay more in line with the route.
Mar 2, 2008
Recommend belaying to the far left (as you would for Edges and Ledges). A bowling ball size rock came loose from the upper ledge and landed on the belay ledge directly in line with the route. Luckily we were too lazy to move our belay from where we started. Fun route otherwise! Edit: If you do belay on the left, move right when pulling your rope to avoid snagging it on a stubborn feature to the right of the first bolt.
Oct 28, 2007
Really just one 5.9 move - from the last bolt your move from the easy wide crack to the face, which is a bit delicate. A single 5.8 move at the top wide crack (just below the anchor) is also interesting (blue #3 Camalot - don't bother with the #4). Otherwise easy and unremarkable climbing.
May 6, 2007
Another nice route with some interesting moves. Crux comes nearer the top when you have to step right back onto the face.
Nov 13, 2006
- Pumpkin Corner
- Ride, The
Pretty tough bouldering problem to start. Did it without any extra gear and ran it out about 30' to 3rd bolt. Easy climbing after that second bolt -- 5.8 or so.
May 17, 2014
I placed two pieces before the first bolt. The first was a #1 Friend and the second was a 0.5 Camalot. The first piece occupies a hand hold but inspires confidence.
Jun 7, 2013
A tough start to more moderate climbing. Place a good red Alien at the start and clip in short; the hardest moves are before the first bolt (pumpy and tricky laybacking.) The cracks in the middle of the pitch need more cleaning; bring a wire brush. Fun slab moves at the top.
Oct 25, 2006
- Same As It Ever Was
Crimpy moves out right to a jug. Beyond that, not as hard, but maybe not something to try to warm up on.
May 6, 2017
The crux on this is certainly at about the first bolt. The bolt will be hard to clip if you are short, and if you fall doing the crux, it seems like the bolt is barely high enough to keep you from hitting the rock below.
Apr 10, 2014
Climb carefully past the loose block near the 3rd bolt. We will remove it when the heat stroke index drops and we have more people because of the nearness to the road. It is easy to avoid, just be aware.
Aug 9, 2007
- Sunlight Arete
No better or worse than 'Useless One' to the right. They can indeed be done as completely different and isolated routes but are more naturally blended with a few shared moves.
Sep 17, 2016
Some cool moves on this route. You definitely have to use both sides of the arete. If it were a little longer, I'd probably give it another star.
Apr 10, 2016
Last week an Io Moth Caterpillar fell on my partner and wow, what a sting! =Then it fell 30' and hit me, and I immediately understood what hurt her. Io Moth Caterpillar. Every spine is a wasp sting like experience!
Sep 26, 2015
Fun little route. The approach may be a bit daunting for some. Hint: Remember to use the "sunny side" of the arete as well.
Mar 1, 2008
- Threshold Variation
- Threshold, The
Actually, the upper part of this route is best done 6' left of 'My Way' stepping out end left into a series of other crack systems after the crux deposits you briefly upon the arete. There is reasonable gear and the upper section is never harder than 5.10- and perhaps not even that hard.
May 6, 2017
- Throttle, The
Step up from flake on sidepulls into the bowl is a harder than average 11 and insecure at least maybe 11c/d? However, you can get a cordalette tripled over and tied off behind the "spike" I mention triple and tied off so as to be sure that if you sever a strand or two, that you don't end up on the ledge. I'd say use Kevlar, not nylon. There a yellow or green Alien at the start, which is probably 5.10, then the cord, then a few more Alien options and Camalot options here or there on the 5.10 climbing, which is continuous and insecure, then there is a a green Alien placement at the upper crux which might be 5.10+, so save one for that. So there is some gear opportunity, but it is infrequent. Yeah, the route is 'R.'
May 6, 2017
- Useless One
The route has cleaned up well enough, I guess. The initial placement is pretty high if you eschew the bolts down low for a trad route.... Then lots of gear but slightly flaky rock in a few spots. Not unsafe by any means.
Sep 17, 2016
A few really fun moves but mostly choss climbing to get to the route, worth doing if you're in the area.
Oct 2, 2014
- Where's Bob?
A single placement between 0.75" and 2" will be had between the last and second to last bolt if you feel that you want/need that. The climbing there is easier and, unless you are short, not very committing. If you take any given cam in that range, you ought to be able to find a placement for it. If you take the whole range, you could pack them all in there.
Sep 17, 2016
I placed a #2 Friend and a 0.75 Camalot. I think you would be ok with just the Camalot at the roof. The bolt is not far above, and the moves from the bolt before the roof are not hard.
Jun 7, 2013
Fun route; really fun moves (5.8/5.9) up the slab, and maybe 5.10a at the roof. We placed an 1.5-inch (orange) Alien and a yellow 0.75-inch Alien.
Jul 12, 2007
- Boulderado, The
- Fistula
This is a super easy / fun lead. You can place pro every 4 feet if you've got it. Save a couple pieces for the top though. You'll get to a ledge and want to walk to the left about 15 feet to the anchors of Mons. I placed a #3 right below the short face climb to the anchors. Make sure you're communicating with anyone who may be getting on Mons so there's not a cluster at the top.
May 23, 2016
The biggest piece I used on this was a #4 Camalot. There are places for lots of smaller gear. I used a #3 at the top but nothing bigger than a #1 lower on the pitch.
Apr 2, 2014
- Hell in a Bucket
- Ho Hum
I wonder if this route would benefit by adding a bolt or 2 in now blank sections where all the rock was trundled off. The route is not the same as it was before. The pro is very limited until you get higher, and you may have a groundfall depending on your placement. It would still be a good beginner lead and toprope, since there is still a set of anchors above it. Approval by R. Rossiter would be needed of course. Just a thought.
Mar 21, 2017
I climbed the route a few days ago not knowing anything about its recent history. Climbing was never more than 5.4. However, there is now very little protection for the first 30' or so (small stoppers). When I got near the middle, I saw a lot of fresh dirt and realized there had been recent rockfall. I tested a flake on the left, and it vibrated when tapped, so I avoided it. I climbed to the right and then stepped left to look at the crack there and a very gentle left foot placement sent a large rockfall down--maybe a couple of hundred pounds. Fortunately, my belayer was well to the L of the line as I climbed it. After that the protection was OK, a couple of large cams. I set a natural anchor at the top slinging a boulder. Conclusion: this is a dangerous route with unstable rock features and difficult to protect for the first 30 feet. rob.calm
Nov 10, 2016
Just climbed it this morning as my first trad lead. Obviously the pine tree in the mid part is now gone. Instead there is dirt and a loose plate left -- don't pull it. The anchor is tall yet still reachable for 5'8". Or you might want to climb a little higher from the right side to set the rappel. Small cams are preferred.
Aug 16, 2016
Unfortunately this is no longer as good a pitch for beginner trad leaders as it was before the rock scaling. The removal of that column of rock has left a few suspect holds, and the tree snapped off during the operation. It was once 'G' rated but now is probably 'PG-13' for a novice (good gear not as obvious or plentiful.)
Jun 30, 2016
Most of the TR anchors on this cliff are out of my reach: 5'4". My husband, who's 5'10" with a positive ape index, can just reach some of them. Nothing to be done about it, but consider yourself forewarned if you're vertically impaired.
Apr 12, 2015
Eds. CDOT removed any potentially dangerous boulders, good to climb Just climbed this today, and the massive loose block is extremely unstable. It needs addressed, I would say, immediately as it's only a matter of time till it's pulled off to the dismay of anyone in the belay area, anyone driving in the road, and potentially anyone parked in the parking lot across the road. I would say to not climb this route, unless you're prepared to make sure to not touch the block. I just posted a forum asking for help in the hopes to remove the block safely, respond to the post so we can do something about this dangerous situation. Eds. CDOT removed any potentially dangerous boulders, it's good to climb/
Apr 12, 2015
That loose rock noted by burnindaylight above is extremely loose. I wasn't aware of it before and tilted it out about 6" yesterday. I managed to shove it back in a panic. It's about 3' x 1' x 1', second-ish stone from the top of that rectangular pillar that forms the right-facing dihedral left of the tree. Burnindaylight is right, if pulled, this could definitely hit the belay and probably go all the way to the road.
Apr 10, 2015
In reference to the above comments about the height of the anchor, I am 5'8" and was able to reach up and clip them. You are on a big ledge, so the possible high piece of pro mentioned above does not seem necessary. See the picture taken from below the anchor.
Feb 14, 2014
FYI, there is a large loose boulder on the pillar about 2/3rds of the way up the route. It moved a couple of inches when I pulled on it. This would fall right onto the belay ledge and probably continue to the road. See the attached picture. I chalked it when I was there on 6/3. Loose rock!
Jun 5, 2012
Just a note, the anchors are bit high on this climb. I'm about 5.9' and I was reaching to thread the rope.
Aug 4, 2009
After you've got the rope hanging from the anchors, take a lap and climb the face out to the left of the normal dihedral, adds a new twist to the route. The face moves probably go at 5.5 or 5.6.
May 20, 2008
*A note of caution to any who desire to TR this route: The LEFT bolt-hanger is attached by a very loose nut as of July 20th 2007. It seems to slowly uscrew itself during use. This is also the case with the route to the left, Jam It
Jul 21, 2007
Bolt anchors recently added by Rossiter are nearly out of reach for short people. Being one of those short people, I found the crux of the route was trying to stretch to get slings onto the rings. Placing a microcam in small pocket left of the bolts for a safety helps make it a little more secure, so I didn't peel of the ledge trying to clip the left ring.
Jun 14, 2007
There is a fixed cam (NOT coming out) about 1/2 way up in the dihedral crack on your left.
Sep 25, 2006
This was my first trad lead... it takes perfect pro - but I did a terrible job with rope drag... for other beginner leaders make sure you extend your slings and take care to keep your rope out of various cracks 'cuz I am just glad the climb ended when it did or i couldn't have gone further if I wanted to
Jul 30, 2003
- Idle Hands
Good little climb. A little cold to climb in February. Not the easiest to protect for the beginner 5.6 leader. Anchors at the top look great.
Feb 21, 2016
Surprisingly fun climb for the grade. My son's 1st trad lead, 2nd lead ever. He sewed it up with a couple small Camalots and several nuts. Nice easy climb with almost vertical headwall at top. 5.6 on the upper half, easier lower down.
Nov 9, 2014
Good protection, I used all cams, but partly bc my partner doesn't like removing nuts. Even though I placed a #3, you could easily do the route with nothing larger than a #1 or 2. A single rack is totally adequate. Bring shoulder length runners though, and watch your rope line as it passes over the blocks.
Jul 9, 2014
Awesome! Take the rock quality and all those cool chickenheads from The Dome and tilt it towards vertical, that is this climb. Slabby start to steep and juggy towards the anchors. Good pro throughout, lead it!
Jun 3, 2013
Fun route. Protection can be a little non-obvious and I ended up using a number of horizontal small-cam and tricam placements. Probably would have held, but I wouldn't have wanted to try them. Anchors in good condition.
Oct 1, 2009
Good line - Protection not always obvious, used a #1 BD out to the right with a 4' runner to protect the final moves to hangers.
May 21, 2009
One of the bolts at the top of Idle Hands is missing its hanger and rap ring - as of July 2, 2007.
Jul 3, 2007
Richard Rossiter placed four bolt anchors at the Boulderado in March 2007 at the request of The Spot gym. See my comment and New toprope anchors on the Boulderado, at the top of Jam It, Ho Hum, Idle Hands, and Mons. Red dots show access to anchors. Be very careful if you are at the top of this cliff and are not anchored in. Please toprope through your own gear, and not directly through the anchor rings. Photo by Richard Rossiter. . Richard has the first known ascents of these routes on the Boulderado; see Richard's comment.
May 28, 2007
You do not need the long runner anymore. There are great bolted anchors at the top. Lead it, don't TR. It's more fun.
May 28, 2007
Very fun route! Leave all the mid- and large-sized gear behind, though. I led this with a half-set of wallnuts, smaller aliens, and one #1 camalot. And that was sewing it up.
Nov 20, 2003
A nice obvious line on solid rock. A nice practice route for the beginner leader, though I found it a little tricky to protect up at the final more vertical crux, but a couple of small nuts seemed to do the trick. And yes, rope drag can be a bit of an issue.
Oct 13, 2003
I think this would be a good lead for a beginner or for someone looking to build back confidence with trad (me in both cases!). Be sure that your belayer is anchored - we used a sling around a big boulder at the base - since any falls before the first piece about 10 feet up would send you and your partner to the highway. It's very consistent climbing, with no real crux except for the top, which we went to the right of making for an easier finish (the same as for Mons, the crack to the right).
Sep 13, 2003
The Boulderado is a good crag for working on easy leads. The line left of Idle Hands, marked 2 on the above picture is called Ho Hum, 5.4 in the guidebook. I didn't figure it was worth a separate write up, but it's as good as Idle Hands and the short diheadral above and left of the tree offers an opportunity to practice jams.
Jun 25, 2002
This is a great first route for beginners. A little bit of face at the bottom, a lot of crack work.It can be topped, but need some long slings, a 60m rope, and a willingness to lay into the belay a little since the friction on the rope is pretty strong.
Jul 5, 2001
- Jam It
Be careful if you stray a bit right below the roof. There is a large, loose flake marked with a chalk "x" that could come down with a good tug.
Mar 3, 2016
This route has a two-bolt anchor basically dedicated for it. Easy to top-rope, perhaps with a directional above the crux (C4 0.4-0.5). Good beginner lead if the leader knows a little about hand jamming. The crux can be well protected with a #1 low and a #2 placed high for a limited fall if the belayer keeps you tight.
Jul 12, 2014
This is a really easy route except a few moves at the roof in the middle. I think it is worth doing if you are in the area.
Apr 2, 2014
More of a scramble with 1 or 2 5.7 moves in the middle, but I still found it really fun! Would be a great route for the beginning trad leader, you can have 3 bomber pieces at your waist when pulling the crux. Singles from green Alien to #2 c4 will sew it up.
May 31, 2013
Careful setting up a TR on most of the routes around here, as it gets pretty sketchy out on some of the ledges. There's a monster tree up top that I suggest anchoring yourself to, or your partner can belay you to the anchors.
Aug 12, 2011
The crux protects well with a C4 #2.
Mar 15, 2010
This was the worst route I have ever been on. It's like climbing a ladder to one easy move and back onto ladder. A total waste of time.
Jun 23, 2008
All the anchors for the routes at Boulderado have been fixed. Since this area is so heavily used, we checked all the anchors that we put in and fastened them all with Locktight. This repair took place 8/6/2007. Pebby Johns
Aug 8, 2007
*A note of caution to any who desire to TR this route: the (climber's) LEFT bolt-hanger is attached by a very loose nut, i.e. it comes unscrewed slowly with use. [as of July 20th 2007]. This is also the case with the route to the right, Ho Hum And, as was posted in the general forum, one of the new bolt-hangers from Idle Hands is still missing.
Jul 21, 2007
As has been mentioned before, it's a one-move wonder. But that one move was trickier than I had expected. The crack wasn't great for jamming (at least for someone with large hands like mine) being a bit flaring, smooth and at entirely the wrong angle. Laybacks are possible but pumpy. A better (cheating?) option is to reach up and about 2' right of the top of the crack to the jugs and just mantle it. Nice climb, but far from the best at the rock.
Oct 20, 2003
If you want to experience the 5.8(+) part, don't use ANYTHING but the crack to pass the roof. I led it the other day, then TR-ed it so I could try the crack alone. Made me fall. I was humbled. Second attempt no problem, but at least those looking for a harder lead can give that a shot.
Sep 29, 2003
- Jam It (Variation)
This is the most convenient way to the Ho Hum anchors if you're stting up a TR for beginners. It's not that fun, but there's no rope drag.
May 11, 2013
- Jazz on the Mezzanine
Do this route. Super fun for the grade. (Pink point beta: hang draws on the 12 via the 5.9 anchors.) The crux isn't off the start...or boulder. It's keeping the pump low till the top. One good rest below the last bolt.
Sep 7, 2016
Fun little route that packs a punch for how short it is. Definitely stick clip the first as the crux moves are stepping off the boulder and into the opening sequence. Pretty powerful climbing in a small package. This route would clean up nicely with more ascents, but unfortunately the hang kind of sucks with the road 20 feet below you....
May 9, 2013
- Mons
This route was worth doing but only 1 star. I liked the one move wonder and a good place to bring a new climber.
Aug 12, 2017
Very fun route with lots of variety on either side of the crack. However, be cautious of a sketchy rock, on right side of crack, past the crux, just below the big sloping ledge toward the top (see red circle on photo). The 3x1x1 ft block is not teetering but vibrates when you whack it. Placing protection behind or below it could jar it loose if you fell on it. Might also want to avoid the obvious handhold on it. Be aware of sketchy rock, circled in red. Not teetering but not especially strong.
Apr 22, 2016
The anchors are in kind of an awkward place for leaders-- requiring 2-3 moves above a slanting ledge after the route feels like it's over. I imagine that they're all the way up there so that the rope doesn't rub too much when toproping, but I wonder if it would be better to put them down where they could be threaded from the ledge.
Oct 19, 2014
The crux on this is really only one move. It is protected by a #1 Camalot and then a #0.75 Camalot slightly higher. If you know how to crack climb, it is over quickly.
Mar 4, 2014
Be careful of loose rock on the ledge just below the anchor. There are a couple football sized rocks that if knocked down, would make for a bad day to any motorist driving by. Also, when rapping, watch where your rope lands. My partner knocked loose a small-ish rock while rapping that nearly hit an onlooker taking photos from the road.
Apr 7, 2008
This is a fun route on really good quality rock. It helps build confidence leading, and the crux, a small bulge half way up, is very well protected with a #6 hex (#0.75 Camalot maybe) and is also on good hand holds. Idle Hands is about the same difficulty as Mons, but without any crux really. Be sure that the belayer is anchored if you are leading this climb to prevent any falls to the highway.
Sep 14, 2003
Too short by about 30 meters, but a short after-work on the rock is better than a late day at work :)
Sep 10, 2003
- Qs
We had a good time on this one today. Instead of leading from the ground up, I racked up and lead the crappy corner on the left to set up a top rope on this. Uneventful 5.4, but after a cold season in the gym, I wasn't quite ready for the lead. On TR though, the moves were interesting, and I'm glad we made the effort. I'd give it two stars, but I'll hold off on the grade until I can run up it on lead
Mar 30, 2014
I tightened the anchor bolts today.
Sep 2, 2013
Was on this in August 2013. There are new anchors at the top, though I recall that one of them allowed for a little spinning. Fun route. Well chalked, so it's easy to see. About 5.9 following, 5.9+ lead. Totally worth doing if you're in the area.
Sep 2, 2013
A large flake is getting loose at the very beginning of the route.
Sep 26, 2009
I really liked this climb it was fast and easy and right off the road, definitely a must in Boulder Canyon.
May 2, 2007
Oops! The three original anchor bolts I pulled were 1/4" Rawl compression bolts and not 5/16" as I originally reported. An even better reason to have replaced the anchor!
Sep 23, 2005
The three original 5/16" anchor bolts have been removed leaving only the two 3/8" SS bolts and quick links on top. Bruce
Sep 23, 2005
Awesome climb! This was one of my first climbs that I did during a climbing class offered from C.U. The only problem is that the Boulderado is quite a bit crowded. If you do not mind the population density in the upper end, then I would definitely recommend this climb. Lots of different lines can be taken and makes an awesome top rope for squeamish significant others to try their own skills on. I prefer to take the crack on the left side up the first third and then traverse over to the right to follow the bolt line up. Any way you take though it is an awesome rock!
Mar 28, 2005
Like "Smaller Fish" I started to the left of the bolt line, flagrantly ignoring the route description given above and avoiding any "tiny side-pulls and crimpers from the bottom." I'm hardly a confident 5.9 leader (more of a 5.8 leader) and I get pumped pretty fast, but starting to the left made this climb feel very secure, if rather tough. -Joe
Oct 29, 2003
Reasonable, small holds on beautiful rock. I climbed the left dihedral until the second bolt, then traversed right about 10' finishing on the more steeply overhung right edge. Maybe my fingers are just weak, but it felt like solid 9+ territory. An easier route was found by sticking in the left edge for another ten feet then traversing over in the middle of the bulge. If you toprope this one, watch the swing from the left side. It's scary, whipping your rope across the rock (from the admirable, new anchors) and dangling you above the traffic. Exciting to say the least!
Oct 20, 2003
In response to the comments about the new anchor.... 3/8" bolts are absolutely fine for belay/rappel anchors. They have a pull-out strength of over 5000 pounds if properly installed and are not subject to the dynamic loading of a protection bolt. We left the original bolts in place because some people still belay from the top of a climb, rather than lowering off, and the existing bolts are fine for that. We did not just pull the existing bolts and re-drill because the bolts were too far back from the edge and would have required 2+ feet of chain on each bolt.
Oct 15, 2003
Not to diminish the importance of the fine work you did by placing 2 bolts at the crest of the top, but why not remove the other three when you were there? I can understand not using the old holes as unsightly slings would still be required to reduce rope drag over the edge but why leave the old bolts that have now been rendered obsolete? You set a good example of community service for others to follow. Any takers?
Oct 15, 2003
Good work Bruce. Are there now 5 bolts at the anchor? Could you have removed the existing bolts and re-drilled the old holes and placed 1/2" bolts? Either way, thanks for the replacement. Are the RAwl (aka Power) bolts you placed stainless steel or plated, and how long 21/4", 3", or 31/2". Do you think it's necessary to place SS bolts in granite? I've heard different opinions on this issue. THANKS AGAIN.
Oct 15, 2003
Dale Haas and I, with approval from the first acent party, fixed up the anchor on top of this route. We left the original three anchor bolts in place and added two 3/8" Rawl 5-piece (Torque) bolts at the crest of the top of the climb. We addedtwo 3/8" quick links to each bolt for rappelling and lowering. This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA).Look them up at safeclimbing.org. They appreciate your support. A couple of notes on the other bolts on the climb. The final protection bolt has, mistakenly, been called a 1/4" bolt. It is in fact a 3/8" wedge anchor. Also, the three bolts that comprise the old anchor are Rawl "Spike" bolts. It appears that they are 5/16" in diameter. Happy climbing!
Oct 14, 2003
Hey Joe B., how tall are you anyways? This route goes at a solid 5.9+ in my book. The tiny side-pulls and crimpers from the bottom to the third bolt aren't exactly 5.9 material. Granted, after the third bolt the holds are comparatively huge... Either way, great climb to try out. The bolts are nice and close for the crux (the first is even easily skippable). If leaders are TR-ing this one for friends, leave one or two QDs on the route so the second doesn't swing way south after a fall. They'd have to be lowered all the way down to get back on route generally.~Wm
Sep 29, 2003
I climbed this route today and found it to be a top quality route, blemished unfortunately by the sketchy three bolt top anchor. I found the slings currently in use to be too short, putting the rings over the top edge leading to bad rope drag. I'd suggest removing the old top anchors and placing new ones a couple of feet down or using long chains. The final bolt on the route, just below the top anchor is a quarter incher due for replacement as well. Otherwise a real pleasure of a sport route.
Sep 23, 2003
It's peculiar that whoever put the bolts on this climb left the dubious anchor at the top. The anchor is scary, and it's a shame for such a nice climb. I would replace the anchors if someone loaned me a drill.....send me an email if interested. It would only take a few minutes and would make the route so much more pleasant.
Sep 18, 2003
8/9/03 Nice climb. I would rate it more of a 5.9 than a 5.9+.
Aug 9, 2003
A fun, thoughtful little climb. The "anchor" at the top is shite and in dire need of an upgrade (Fred??... Heidi??). It would be considered a bad anchor in the desert!See the gear alert. The anchor consists of three rusty quarter inchers, equalized with slings. This would be considered a bad anchor even by obscure desert tower standards. Back things up with small to medium cams if you plan on TRing. For cleaning: best not to lower off the anchor... rap instead.
Jun 20, 2003
A really grat route, although I am not sure why the nostalgic anchors are still in place, those are scary. This route has a SUPERB photo-op on a beautiful sunny day, blue sky behind the arete looking down the canyon around the 4th bolt. A beauty..... Enjoy.
Sep 25, 2001
While a real fun climb with great holds - I found the old hangers (two of which spin carelessly around the old expansion bolts) a wee bit disconcerting!
Aug 8, 2001
I loved this route, even though I usually climb hard sport routes, it is fun to climb a route once in a while that is just fun.
Jun 12, 2001
This is a great climb, I really enjoyed leading it.
Jan 1, 2001
- Suite 11
Conceived by Steve. Led by Steve and Mic with only trad gear - rather reachy and R-rated by 1980's standards. Retro bolted by Mic after consult w/ Steve in the early '90s.
Mar 13, 2006
- Bowling Alley, The
- Lower Right Side
- A Tall Cool One
I would have to agree with everything that KCP just stated. Perhaps most important is the fact that this thing is really fun. 12a? 11d? Meh, whatever. I did onsight it but didn't downgrade it...I guess I have a lot to learn about being a Boulderite. Next time I will have to channel my inner eight year old and get all grumpy about the bolting; perhaps then I can comfortably call it 11a.
Oct 31, 2013
Just did this route again, after a three-year climbing hiatus, and it took several tries after a month of fitness training. Then I did it two more times - once as a warm-up, and once at the end of the day. 12a feels more accurate than 5.11. It's definitely not 11b or c. I've climbed hundreds of routes in those ranges, all over the map, so I have a pretty good idea what they feel like. It would be interesting to know how many calling this route mid-5.11 actually onsighted it. I'm inclined to believe that it wasn't many, and for those who did, it wasn't near their limit. All routes feel easier when we wire them. The Web felt like 5.11 when I finally sent it. More importantly, the moves are classic and sustained all the way to the traverse up high, and then it's still interesting. Clipping the chains is not a giveaway if you're pumped and at your limit on this route. The bolts, overall, are a bit closely spaced, although this takes nothing away from the quality of climbing, nor does the route's proximity to the road. As a friend used to constantly remind me, too much comparative analysis can suck the fun out of almost anything worth doing.
Oct 31, 2013
Last time I was at this route, an 8 year old girl looked at it for a minute with a puzzled look on her face. She then turned to me and said in a confused voice, "Why are there so many bolts on that route?" I about spit out the water I was drinking. If an 8 year old girl thinks it's over-bolted, you know it is. At the crux, there is a bolt at your feet, knees, and face.
Sep 23, 2012
+1 to TB. A great route. It seems odd to me that so many would turn up their noses regarding traffic noise. It is sport climbing at the Bowling Alley, after all. I think that 11d/12a makes sense if you stick to the bolt line; I believe that many cheat left at both the lower and upper crux.
Jul 1, 2012
Strangely enough, Curt, while you argue that it deserves 3 stars, right by your name it is revealed that you rated it 2 stars?!?!?
Apr 10, 2011
I am surprised that this route does not get better ratings. The rock quality is pretty darn good (most of the route is bullet hard granite), and there are lots of thoughtful movements. Many people seem to bash the noise and fumes from cars passing by, but most people including myself go to The Bowling Alley to get a quick workout when they are short on time. If you want to be further away from the road, well just look at the million other crags in the area that sit high above the road. This route gets 3 stars and, in my opinion, is one of the better routes at The Bowling Alley.
Apr 6, 2011
11d sounds about right - just a bit tenuous at times. Great climb for the location - I love fumes. Seriously, very enjoyable and keeps you on your toes.
Aug 25, 2008
The low crux, on review, wasn't bad at all, just tenuous. Actually the second was the same. I felt that the moves were very footwork and body position dependent, not so much strength.
Jul 30, 2008
This makes a reasonable climb to do some quick aid practice, right by the road. You can basically climb the entire pitch as a bolt ladder, with a few mandatory free moves that are pretty easy, but still require getting out of the aiders. Don't need any gear besides draws when done this way with a few easy free moves.
Mar 28, 2007
11d/12a sounds most accurate. It is a beautiful route, with nice dihedral moves at the begining, stellar face climbing in the middle and juggy cruiser moves at the top. For the rock and the moves, it's classic, and for the lazy person or time crunched like myself, the close proximity to the road is a good thing.
Feb 14, 2007
This route is "A Tall Cool One", 5.12a, first ascent by Dan Hare and Matt Fetbrod, July 2002, according to Mark Rolofson's new guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport and Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II - The Upper Canyon".
Aug 27, 2005
The nut on the sixth bolt (protecting the second crux) is loose. I was only able to finger tighten it today. Two stars despite the route's proximity to the road. Sustained, very puzzling climbing. Even after I wired the cruxes, it felt like .11d to me. And when you think the climb's over (after the mantle to the rest ledge and a few juggy moves) there's a surprise before the anchors.
Jun 27, 2005
If I were sending pals to the crag I'd tell them this is one of the better routes, so I'll give it 2 stars. As for difficulty, I found it not so bad except for the one left hand side pull around the 4th bolt, which also is not so bad once you find it right. Felt easier than the route just to the right, "Centennial" (11c/d).
May 21, 2005
Excellent route with some problem solving. Would be a three star if it weren't so close to traffic noise. Myself and two friends did the lower crux differently a couple days ago. The upper crux was good for me. I almost hung because of the difficulty of the clip, but I downclimbed three moves pseudo-rested and then went back up and did it. It was one of those spots and moments where you can screw yourself by having a negative mindset: thinking about a fall, fear, etc...but it was good for me because I was able to keep that at bay. Maybe that's why I liked the line so much.
Sep 27, 2004
This is a pretty tricky climb and if it's rated 11d I doubt it will be downgraded. A must-do climb if you thrive on hi-octane exhaust fumes and burning brakes. The ambience is definitely worth a bomb.
Jul 18, 2004
A key flake has ripped at the second crux, making the route slightly more difficult than before.
Jul 6, 2004
Climbed it 10/29. Good route with several crux-like sections.Grade 11+/12- seems about right. Traffic noise is horrific.
Oct 31, 2003
- Bowling Block
- Centennial
This route is tricky when it's raining....
Jul 10, 2014
It has cleaned up very nicely & become a worthy route. This would still be a tough on-sight.
Jul 28, 2009
This route has cleaned up very nicely, and the upper pitch is among the best I've done at the Bowling Alley.
May 6, 2009
Felt hard, but maybe I was slipping off too much on lichen and loose rock. It might be worth more stars after a good brush-down. Harder than the supposed 11d/12a to the left and slippery in a few spots.
May 21, 2005
This route has some great moves. The highway noise is as bad as it gets, but then that's what you'd expect with a 50 foot approach. There is a big ledge about 60 feet up the route. The headwall above this ledge has a tricky move above the 2nd bolt (8th bolt overall). The belayer cannot see the leader at this point, plus there is a good amount of rope stretch so a fall can result in the leader hitting the ledge. The right to the left, Splitting Hares, has a similar upper headwall above a ledge with a hard move at the first bolt. Be careful here too.
Oct 13, 2003
Thanks, man!
Jul 10, 2003
I'll respond to Paul Findley's question about routes below the Practice Rock from the Bowling Alley area to try to move some discussions off the Pinchusion route. You can see from the picture of Centennial that it is one of the routes. Several of the routes are in the database. Some are not as they were done by another climber and the names are not known. Here is what I know (the ratings may be off +/- many letters grades): From left to right (walk uphill past the big tree in the picture): 1. trad short crack 5.10? (recent new route) 2. Dry Run 5.9, 3 bolts 3. Happy Ending 5.10, 7 bolts (with hard move getting to anchors) 4. Father Figure 5.11b 5. Shady Deal 5.11, stemming dihedral 6. Splitting Hares 5.10 (pictured) 7. A Tall Cool One 5.12, 9 bolts 8. Centennial 5.11c/d (100ft pitch) 9. Curb Service, 4 bolts (on a block separate from the wall) (2 routes on this block) 10. Just Like Nebraska 5.11d (100 ft right of Centennial) 11. Zee Eliminator 5.10 (1980 trad route)
Jul 10, 2003
- Curb Service
I'm not super strong, and I thought the first move off the deck was 10a/b at the most. The moves up high felt harder to me.
Jul 27, 2017
Guidebook typo? 11a off the deck unless you're super strong. Up high it's way harder than 10a if you try to follow the bolts.
Apr 27, 2017
10a? Hahhahahaha! Must be a misprint in the guidebook on this one.
Sep 19, 2016
If you stay belly to the bolts and right of them, the 3rd bolt to the top is 5.11a or harder. 5.10a if you go left a little, except yeah, a bouldery start.
Sep 3, 2015
This is a climb that you want to make it to the third bolt on. I'd say it's a PG-13 until the 3rd bolt. After that, the slab will not harm you. I am a little thrown off by the Wolverine Boulder Canyon guidebook because of its 10a rating. Especially at the crux, I'm convinced it's at least a 10d, maybe even 11a.
Jul 11, 2014
The lowest part of the flake between the third and fourth bolt blew off on me last night. It was about the size of a football, so luckily my belayer was not hit. This makes that section a bit harder or at least more or a reach to get on the flake. I feel the opening move is still harder, so it doesn't change my rating for it.
May 3, 2014
I agree with Nick, This thing is way harder than 10a right off the deck. From the last bolt to the anchors is solid 10a, moving left and then back right. Don't blow any of the clips.
Jul 2, 2013
Short and sweet. A 10 second approach! The crux seems to be initially getting onto the rock. Also, you may want to climb left a bit to reach the 4th bolt. Somewhat awkward anchor stance....
Jul 18, 2011
The first move isn't worse than .10a/b if you can stem your feet and make a controlled move to the horn next to the first bolt. The top section, if you follow the bolt line, feels all of .10d, however. Even clipping the anchors feels a touch tenuous.
Sep 7, 2009
Maybe PG-13 if you screwed up the second clip and there is good swing potential. Maybe I've been sport climbing too much. A cool line with good position.
Apr 11, 2009
I can't see how the move off the ground, straight up past the bolt, is less than 10d, and I would have guessed 11a if I hadn't read about it beforehand. No way it's 9 - no matter what you do at the top of the route.
Mar 10, 2008
R? what?
Aug 22, 2007
Good quick one on a cold morning - in the sun from the east. Indeed watch the ground fall, which is why I'd say R or S. I'd say 10d straight up from the 2nd bolt, and 10a (R) if you go left. You don't want to fall from out left, before you clip the 3rd bolt, but it is definitely easier that way.
Jul 30, 2007
- Dry Run
Wish it was longer, but it was not bad. Felt hard for 5.9.
Nov 28, 2014
Be sure to stick to the left up the crimps as opposed to starting on the right and working left to first bolt. Much better moves.
Oct 5, 2014
A great cool down, or for someone who wants lead experience.
Jun 29, 2010
This route is "Dry Run", 5.10a, first ascent by Dan Hare and Stella Adams, July 2002, according to Mark Rolofson's new guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II - The Upper Canyon". Bouldery start to good jugs; you might want to stick clip the first bolt.
Aug 27, 2005
- Father Figure
This route, imo, is more deserving of 3 stars than 2. The movement is very good.
Oct 31, 2014
I think this is a little harder than it is rated in the D'Antonio guidebook. Not much harder, but I would say 11c rather than 11a/b.
Mar 13, 2014
Didn't really like this route. The moves were really awkward and the clipping stances were a bit sketchy with my short stature. There are a lot better routes than this at Bowling Alley. This was much harder for me than Shady Deal was (which I onsighted).
Jun 2, 2011
Actually it is probably close to 125 years! We began in the era when the "shoulder stand" was considered free climbing. It is almost a wheelchair-accessible approach.
Jun 17, 2003
...and it took all four of them to put this one climb up! :-)
Jun 17, 2003
- Fin
You can place multiple green Aliens l on the arete (so-so) and a yellow Alien or possibly a blue deep behind a flake right of the arete + an #4 or #5 BD stopper to protect the easier but runout upper half.
Sep 3, 2015
I thought it was closer to 5.11 than 5.10. The runout is something to consider and the clips are awkward. Consider a TR if this is outside of your comfort zone. The climbing itself though was not bad, so I'd give it 1 star.
Nov 20, 2007
- Happy Ending
I think Brain Damage has too much brain damage, the hardest part is at the crux. Hence it being the crux. Stay on the face with the anchor and you'll get a run for your money. Slightly pumpy with rest, then really pumpy at the crux, fun though and you'll feel accomplished if you send it. The part before the first bolt is awkward, you might stick clip it or get a strong climber/boulderer to clip it for safety. D'Antonio guide is wrong about the bolt count, it's 7 + 2.
Jul 7, 2012
Led this today after Splitting Hares. Good confidence builder. Had to try that final crux move a couple of times before sending it. Glad the kid talked me into it.
May 14, 2011
Fun little warm-up, the start is the hardest part. After the 1st bolt, the rest is a breeze.
Jun 29, 2010
The holds on the short, upper headwall reminded me of Soul Train, at Industrial Wall. It's too bad that the entire route isn't like the last ten feet.
Oct 7, 2007
For the last move, get your feet high enough and trust that right hand allowing you to reach a very solid hold to the lower left of the anchors. Short, but fun route.
Aug 13, 2006
This route is "Happy Ending", 5.10d, first ascent by Dan Hare and Johnny Adams, July 2002, according to Mark Rolofson's new guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport and Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II - The Upper Canyon". This is a fun route. There's a 9+ thin seam move past the third bolt, and a hard face move past the last bolt to the anchor. You can stem right off a block to make this last move easier.
Aug 27, 2005
The broken off rusted piton up 20' is a good clue that at least the bottom 2/3 this route was probably done trad a long time before it was bolted. Trucker gear placements are available here and there without a X-rating.
May 31, 2005
- Hareless In Boulder
- Just Like Nebraska
Much more fun than it looked from the ground! I thought that the roof-crux (well, just past the roof) was pretty tough. More like 5.12. Also, the key flake over the roof was flexing quite a bit. When this breaks, this route is going to get a lot tougher!
Jun 6, 2017
Hello all, So someone has bolted a line just between Nebraska and Curb Service. It is a combo of gear and bolts with a huge, scary loose block after the 3rd bolt. Does anyone what it is called and what it goes at? Thanks
Jun 7, 2014
This is a pretty nice route, and its proximity to the road makes it a good project for short late-summer days. The slab moves before the crux--around the sixth bolt--are tricky and interesting. Here's my crux beta: after clipping the seventh, step up to the good right foot and match the arete undercling (this may break off eventually) to get the left hand on it. Now reach off straight to the right; there is a somewhat invisible poor whitish quartz sidepull there. Using this you can stand on your right foot. Ignore the bolt at your face; clip it after the move. Pause a moment and throw with the right hand to get the jug as you are falling outward. If you catch it, you're done. It seems pretty clean as of late 2009.
Aug 12, 2008
Really fun route, but stuff is still breaking off. Be careful after the last bolt! When I was belaying, my partner's (rather large) foothold broke off and landed one foot to the left of me. Scary! The start is pretty loose, too, and I even managed to break a small crystal I was using as a finger hold on the slab. Once this things sees a little more traffic and gets cleaned up, it will make a great addition to the canyon. Very sustained, yet various types of moves.
Jan 25, 2004
I was lucky enough to get to try this route with the fa's the day after it was bolted. It is a good route with a trickier slab than meets the eye and a technical little roof. Good people too!
Jun 29, 2003
- Shady Deal
The number of extra bolts on the route is similar to the number of extra letter-grades it was given above its actual difficulty. But at least it is a fun patch of rock, even if a little short.
Mar 28, 2012
Way over bolted but excellent route. There is a bolt like every 5ft. Really cool moves and nice array of features. I would rate this at .11a/b
Jun 2, 2011
Solid at .11c if you factor in the multiple z-clip cruxes.
Sep 8, 2008
From below, the route looks like it might be kind of a weird-fest, but once you get into it, you'll find that it's really a stemmer's delight capped off with one or two nice, balancy slab moves to the anchor. Too bad it's so short...
Sep 10, 2007
Really fun route with precarious moves. Ridiculously over-bolted. Does it count as a lead if you always have a bolt clipped over your head?
Apr 15, 2006
This route is "Shady Deal", 5.11c/d, first ascent by Dan Hare and Stella Adams, July 2002, according to Mark Rolofson's new guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II - The Upper Canyon".
Aug 29, 2005
- Splitting Hares
I have to say that I and my partners felt that this was harder than 10a, more like 10c/d. We climbed it after climbing Bad Girls get Spanked and Midge Squadron and before climbing A Tall Cool One and Centennial (which also felt hard for the grade relative to the others). It may have something to do with my lack of reach though....
Feb 23, 2017
We replaced the worn links at the anchor last weekend with fat, stainless links & rings provided by the ASCA. Please donate! The ASCA is a 501(c)3 organization. www.safeclimbing.org.
Aug 11, 2015
This one is a little strange to me. The crux is committing and thought provoking, unless you can reach the small but very solid two finger hold up high. I did what I think most people do with some awkward hand jamming to reach the thank god holds above. It's strange to me, because I've done the top pitch of Stayin' Alive twice, and both times I felt like it's harder than this one, though it looks like most other people think it's easier. I'll have to jump on some other 10a/b in the area for more comparison, but maybe I just had a really good day.
Dec 9, 2013
The bolting style is much different compared to other climbs at this crag. When you turn the corner at the top, you have to do a few moves on the headwall before clipping the bolt. A fall here would be ugly.
Jun 16, 2012
Heads up: the bottom links on the anchor are fairly worn (perhaps 1/8-1/4 of the way through?). I don't know enough to know how much warrants replacement, so I thought I'd share this with someone who does. Needless to say we rapped off this one (as should be done, and as I always do). Fun climb! Thanks to the FAs.
Aug 28, 2011
Onsighted this route today and absolutely loved it. Definitely something I will climb again. Awesome moves from hand jams, finger jams, liebacks, and crimps. Went up without gear and did not even notice any runout. Seemed pretty safely bolted to me. At any rate I would def. reccomend doing this route.
Jun 2, 2011
Climbed it today after backing off it last week. My partner/son led it and did a great job. I was a little freaked out. The area from the 3rd to 5th bolt seemed off balance and did not have a lot of real secure hands. Final headwall was cool, although the kid said that was the scariest part on lead. We did the crux differently. He found a two finger hold from which to clip bolt 5, I jammed the crack until able to reach the Thank God holds above. I'll be thinking about this one until I can come back and lead it in good style.
May 14, 2011
This route is great, I love all the diversity that comes with it. Cool stems with a face on top, you have to really look for hand and foot placement. I give it five stars. Great lead climb to help you mentally.
Jun 29, 2010
5.10a/b is good. There are plenty of opportunities for good rests with the features behind you. I was fine without any gear, but if this is near your limit bring some, because falls looked like they would not be clean. Overall a fun climb with lots of cool jams and stemming moves.
Apr 11, 2009
10a/b is right on. Excellent pitch, worth doing. I am a chicken, and don't think you really need extra gear, except you might want to stick-clip the first bolt if you don't want the risk of a broken ankle.
Oct 7, 2008
Strenuous, awkward moves between the 3rd and 5th bolts. It felt pretty solid at 10a. The bolting is good. No gear necessary.
Dec 4, 2007
Fun climb. Went with a red Alien between the 4th and 5th bolts. The finishing moves on the face are a nice change-up from the climbing below.
Aug 13, 2006
There are now 8 bolts on this route. We felt comfortable leading this without additional gear, although a 1" to 1.5" cam could be placed between the 4th and 5th bolts. An enjoyable route; great stemming in the lower corner and a fun headwall at the top.
Aug 27, 2005
Thanks Bob...we climbed this yesterday, not knowing what we were climbing...but it felt (11ish) to me. The crux is clipping # 2 and also # 4 & #5...sustained.
Oct 18, 2003
Anyone know what the route between Splitting Hairs and Centennial is?
Oct 17, 2003
Make sure you take small (Aliens) to mid-size (#2 Friend) cams. It seemed quite a bit harder than 5.10a, but then we were climbing it in the fog and mist! A good route with lots of diverse moves. It will be interesting to climb it in good weather.
Jun 25, 2003
- Splitz
- Zee Eliminator
So as per request of Dan Hare I put a new set of 3/8" stainless steel anchors with rings at the top of Zee Eliminator, he asked me to do it on the ledge to hopefully get some more folks interested in the route. I also trundled the loose, massive, wedged block sitting about 3/4 up the route in the crack, so it's pretty splitter now! I found this route to be very technically engaging and quite honestly after some thorough cleaning and knocking off the 60 pound block thought it was quite fun. Get on it!
Aug 14, 2015
Not a great route - a little crumbly - would improve with some more traffic/cleaning. Best rack is med nuts - 3" cam with doubles from 1-2".
Mar 25, 2012
- Main Crag
- Amazing Face
I would second Ken Leiden's comments about the upper pitch. Not nearly as good as the first but worth doing if up on the ledge warming up. You can avoid the guano if you head left at the headwall instead of moving right to the pillar. Careful hand placement on the pillar would probably work also, but it'd be tough to see the correct spot from below. More fun as a warm-up than Termites.
Jan 22, 2017
This route is really fun! If the upper headwall was only longer, say 80 feet of that slightly overhanging crimping, it would be mega-classic. Still quite a nice route with memorable and fun moves. Probably one of the better routes I have done at this crag. It reminded me just a little tiny bit of the face moves on Lucid Creaming. Big moves to positive but small holds. I think most people would agree and smile after doing this crux, it's brilliant!!
Feb 3, 2013
There is a left-leaning, slightly gaston crimp 10" down from the jug. I was able to go to it and then bump to the top. My left foot is backstepped on the previous crimp. But for me (6', +2) it's easy enough to just go all the way. Deadpoint at least, might call it a dyno.
Aug 23, 2008
Easily the best route at the Bowling Alley in my opinion; it would be clasic if the first half was 5.12 instead of 5.10. By the way, what's with all this talk of dynoing? I locked off on a sidepull crimp and used a little momentum, definitely not a dyno.
Jun 12, 2008
I loved this route... it was my first for the grade... the book said 12d. So I hope it is solid....
Apr 24, 2008
Moderate climbing to a rest to a V5 boulder problem.
Oct 1, 2005
This route is great with two dynamic moves in a row. Careful when you throw the dyno, it's easy to over toss for it. Also, after I make the first right hand lunge to the sidepull and stack my left hand under my right on the tiny edge, I set my feet to the right and dyno up with my left hand. This beta worked well for me. And to whoever stole my biners off the top of this route I say, "You, my cheap conscienceless sociopath, are a tool!".
Jul 20, 2003
This route has a 2nd pitch that is pretty good -- rated 5.11c in Rolofson. Technical stemming up a slightly overhanging wall -- a junior version of Meteor Roadblock. A couple of the key holds are covered in guano.
Aug 9, 2002
Re: beta. I went left hand to the right crimper on the slopey lip. It's tough to hit right, so I tried to do it as statically as possible.
Jul 2, 2002
Surprisingly fun climbing! The last move is a ridiculous toss for which I absolutely could not get the feet right. Are people tossing all the way to the jug or to the micro crimps on the slopey lip? Beta please! The bolts are close enough together though that you can yard up to the last bolt and work the crux on TR.
Jun 28, 2002
- Bad Girls Get Spanked
The FLAKE HAS GOTTA GO! Down to help but not sure how to go about it.... It's completely chalked up and clearly being used A LOT.
Nov 24, 2016
From the large horizontal at the second/third bolt, is it possible to face climb straight up and left (avoiding the crack) in order to avoid the hollow flake altogether. An easy hand rail traverse then gets you back right to the bolt above the flake. This bumps the grade up but is a safer variation.
Sep 12, 2016
I didn´t know about the moving flake when I climbed this today for the first time. When I fully grabbed the flake and felt how it was moving, I got a little sketched out. The flake will go eventually. Don´t yank (outwards) on it. Fun route!
Aug 15, 2013
Did this last night and thought that the route is pretty solid 11 a/b. The pic shows a zag to the right below the undercling, I went straight up the seam then stepped over to the undercling. Pretty thin climbing here, could warrant the 11c that it is rated in the guidebook for a short person.
Sep 6, 2012
This was a really fun route with cool movement. Moving past the undercling will allow you to feel the pump! I sat on the ledge about 15 feet above the undercling to shake it out for a few minutes. I onsighted it, and have not done very many 11s, so I would guess low 11. Maybe after I've done a few more I will rate the grade. If you're in the area do it!
Apr 30, 2009
This is a fun route, it's probably easier for people with small fingers. It's a bit scary when using the undercling flake, since it moves as you pull on it. And clipping the bolt higher up on this flake you can hear a hollow sound....
Mar 9, 2009
One of the clips up high (2nd to last I believe) is a tough clip. I downclimbed to a decent stance and looked at the body position again before doing it. Nice route Dan.
Sep 27, 2004
Wow man.... sick route if yall havent been herre try it out it is an amazing climb and view. keep climbing those boulders.
Sep 25, 2003
I got on this last night (6/6/02) and it was seeping water from the seams. And that was running down onto the footholds.... So yeah- it felt darn hard. I'm surprised this gets 2-stars, but maybe if it dries out, I'd see it in a better light and like it.
Jun 7, 2002
Good route. There is another 11 to the left of this route that is a little easier but even more fun, IMO.
May 14, 2002
This felt much easier than 5.11c, 11a sounds closer. If you avoid the obvious undercling then the line might go at 5.11c. But this appears to be seldom done with the flake and undercling at hand's reach.
Nov 13, 2001
Myke, et al., about the 5.11 rating you give this climb: I don't agree with it at all. There is very little chance someone not strong on 11s would get this route on the onsight, which I assume is NOT what you grade routes at. Once you have done the route 30 times, surely it gets easier, but by no means is this 11, a solid 11b, with several 5.11 moves in the mix. As for traversing to the underclings, it surely does ease the climbing, but overal maybe by a letter or 2 at most.
Oct 1, 2001
I don't think one could argue that traversing right to the crack undercling and sidepull is off. However, it's pretty fun and interesting to climb the majority of this route just left of the crack system.
Jul 9, 2001
A very sustained route with a lot of 5.11 moves. Some of the clips are difficult, but overall it is well protected. Be solid on 5.11 before leading this one.
Jun 5, 2001
- Bloodstone
Although short, this climb packs a punch and the pro is difficult to place and at times uninspiring. I think it checks in at about 11c, and it is worth lugging a rack up for it.
Apr 7, 2009
- Bowling Ball and Chain
I think this route is easier than rated on here. D'Antonio rates it 9+, and I think it is a little easier. The route is "ok", but I would not seek it out.
Jan 26, 2014
Very strange route indeed. Almost totally contrived to get any particular rating, so you could say 5.8 or 5.10a. Skip it.
Oct 7, 2008
Beautiful view from the top
Apr 23, 2007
I'd give it one star. No must-do, but if you take the time to follow the bolts, it's fun.
Jul 3, 2003
I thought it made an entertaining second pitch to Mosquito Burrito. It's way easier than 10a if you ride the gully though. The (short) jug haul is fun, but the arete is just plain weird.
Jul 3, 2003
Didn't feel much more than a 5.8 to me ...... The last clip is fun. Quite a bit of loose stuff on the rock.
May 8, 2003
I definitely questioned the intensions of the FAist on this route. Other than pulling through the bulge at the second bolt, there was nothing worthwhile about it. Up above, it wandered aimlessly, entered the gully, then climbed the arete with a ledge and dirt for feet, and having to reach way around the corner to get to the hand holds. It could have been designed much better to create a better route, in my opinion, or left out all together.
Oct 24, 2002
- Chihuahua Enchilada
A confusing start. The leftmost set of large, angled sloper-rails do not lead anywhere. Aim up and to the right for a couple decent hand-holds, find a foot, and go up and left. Stay off the arete for the 10c/d route. If you go further right, to scramble into the gully and then come left, and if you use the arete the rest of the way up, that is more like a 5.7.
Oct 14, 2017
If you follow the natural weakness in the rock, this route is more like 5.8 or .9 R. Once you are are over the roof, the climbing is easier, but there is no protection for a while. So it will be more like an X climb. Still, a worth while climb to do especially on TR after doing the Mosquito Burrito. If you do get bored on top rope, you can play the game of find the 6 chopped bolts.
Apr 11, 2015
- Digital Divide
More like 1.5 stars. TB acurately describes the pitch's strengths and weaknesses.
Jul 16, 2008
10 or 10+ sounds about right. It was pretty dirty and needed a good cleaning. For lack of a brush, I gave it a poor cleaning with my hands while on lead. The moves are actually pretty good and quite fun. The detractors of this climb are the modest length, the ledge at mid-height that breaks up the climbing, and the relatively dirty nature of the climb (smears are scaley and lichenous). The last of these is mitigated somewhat after the most recent set of ascents, but the route still needs a good brushing. Anyway, it deserves some more cleaning and some more ascents.
Apr 24, 2008
- Frothing Green
Fun route, but 5.10b or so (old school 5.9+) - nowhere near 5.11 unless you really try to force hard moves. I think people would like this route if it were advertised as a 5.10. Definitely use a 70m rope, my old 70 had maybe 10-15 feet on the start ledge. I think the bolting on the top slab is kind of cool, you can climb either side of the slab and the bolts protect fine. I went up right for the first half, then traversed at a bolt to the arete/cracks/fin, nice exposure and climbing.
Apr 27, 2017
I just watched a woman get lowered off the end of her rope on this route. She didn't stop on the narrow ledge at the base but fell down the 20 ft slab below & rolled about 40 feet down the hill. She managed to walk down the hill with a cut on the back of her head. She said she felt dizzy. Her partner was driving her straight to the hospital. Always tie a knot in the end of your rope to prevent what happened. I am glad to see the above route description mentions this climb is 105 feet & may require a short downclimb when you run out of rope. In my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II", the topo drawing shows the lowering distance of 105 feet for this route & Lucky Strike. On the other hand, Bob D'Antonio's guidebook "Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs" just says "12 quickdraw & a 60m rope" for both this route & Lucky Strike. I find this unacceptable, & the climbing industry should stop promoting his guidebooks. His guidebook has hundreds of mistakes including misinformation on descent distances on Consilience & Chore Boy.
Mar 12, 2017
You can easily make this route easier than 5.11. The top is 5.11 if you go directly up the bolt line. We went to the right and it was easier. We thought it was about 10c in difficulty at about the 5th or 6th bolt, can't remember which.
Mar 13, 2014
Really, guys, 5.10? Must have been way off route.
Dec 16, 2013
See comment above. On second look, the photo of the guy in the blue shirt, he is stemming left to the block that's loose. Don't touch that thing.
Jul 24, 2005
Fixed hardware is okay, just a way to highlight this comment. I've been meaning to report a safety issue regarding this route. About half way up the route, ten feet or so before you turn the corner to the slab thing, there is a block that you sort of hug or stem around. Off to the left there is another block that you can use to stem for your left foot. The block is loose and ready to fall on your belayer and roll down onto the highway. It's about the size of a large microwave. This may be four to six bolts up ([can't] remember), but it is also the first section where your on your arms a little. Try to stay right. I can't think of any way to safely [remove] this thing because simply prying it off may cause it to roll all the way down the hill. Please, BE CAREFUL.
Jul 24, 2005
If this was 5.11, I wasn't creative enough to find the hardest way up. Lame
Apr 11, 2005
This is a fun, but contrived climb. The top slab is probably not 11, but depends very much on the line you take. It helps rope drag to use a sling or double draws on the 4th and 6th bolts. Don't forget a knot in the rope behind your belayer! 60m doesn't get you quite all the way back down, but easily downclimbed... Enjoy a nice long climb!
Jan 22, 2003
This is a typically contrived Boulder Canyon route. If you climb the natural line and clip all the bolts, there is no way this route is 11a. It is probably closer to 5.9. Ken thought 10c, so maybe I'm overreacting. I guess there were some hard moves. The crux is supposedly the finishing slab, but you'd have to get someone up there to tape off the illegal holds to make this 11a. There are big holds on the right and left side of the blank slab with the bolts. I was never more than an arm length off the bolt line. How ridiculous. Nevertheless, it makes a nice warm-up.
May 3, 2002
- Gutter Ball
- Lucky Strike
I would recommend a 70 meter rope for this route. A 60 meter rope may be three to five feet short. If you are using a 60 meter rope, make sure there is a knot tied in the end. The route has a hard crux & an interesting roof at 3rd bolt but is otherwise a lot of moderate climbing with ledges. Not a route I tend to repeat.
Aug 11, 2017
I wouldn't give it an R rating, but a couple of the bolts are pretty badly placed if you are short (there is no reason they couldn't be an inch lower, and their height makes you do a move prior to clipping way above the last bolt...). However, the crux is well-protected, and most of the climb is mellow.
May 15, 2015
Don't know why this would have an R rating? Very well protected near any of the harder moves....
May 20, 2014
Funky route-- more reminiscent of Clear Creek lines than what I know of Boulder Canyon. The crux is traversing right into a bouldery layback problem about 60 feet up. I cruised right by the second bolt in this section in my desire to get on solid ground, then had a helluva time reaching behind my right leg to clip the sucker. That section and just above are quite slopey. A fun route; worth doing for variety's sake.
Jun 8, 2003
Isn't this the furthest left route?
Mar 12, 2003
- Meteor Rhoadblock
"Strange route, 2 stars is a stretch. Blew the onsight because the crack/slot over the final bulge was full of mud.... The hand jam at the top is gross too. Not very satisfying or enjoyable." There's been a lot of rain recently which would explain the mud. Anyway, you can climb the last crux on the right at a similar grade on face holds avoiding any jams. Sorry you had a tough time on this one.
Aug 9, 2017
Strange route, 2 stars is a stretch. Blew the onsight because the crack/slot over the final bulge was full of mud.... The hand jam at the top is gross too. Not very satisfying or enjoyable.
Aug 9, 2017
This one flummoxed me for two sessions until I finally unlocked a crux sequence that worked. I found no way to make the hand-jam feel anywhere near 12a/b. That rattly jam felt much harder. I'm pretty confident in that I found the easiest beta, and it felt like solid 12b to me and my partner. Btw, the fall is clean. The ledges below you look sketchy, although you'll clear them. I highly recommend this pitch.
Sep 7, 2014
This route just climbs weird. I recommend doing Super Bon Bon or Amazing Face in this sector. This one to me is questionable if it's worth doing.
Mar 6, 2014
Good but kind of weird route. Onsighting this would be pretty proud, as it is fairly tricky. The lower hand jam shredded my right hand, upper hand jam was ok. Not sure how/where you would jam with your left(?). I kind of hated this route while I was climbing it. It was hot and greasy, and the climbing isn't really my style. Looking back on it though, it is probably a good route. The climbing is fairly sustained the whole way, with a fairly difficult crux. Rock is solid too.
Jun 19, 2013
This climb is much better than it looks and well worth doing - especially if you need a short approach. It is quite beta intensive and would be a very hard onsight. The hand jam at the very top is less painful if done with the right hand. This also sets up well for the top out.
May 30, 2012
Really great. Super well protected, good for folks starting to lead 12s. The glued piece near the top was definitely appreciated.
Jun 4, 2007
3 or four years late but here nonetheless. The location: This route is in the middle of the wall, it is the fourth route from the right side and follows the left side of a prominent arete to the top.
May 4, 2007
Nice work, PB! "Retro-trad" is a classy evolution of the game, countering the forces of gridbolting & general dumbing-down unfortunately so prevalent these days. Kudos to Bob D. and others who still believe in the value of 'mixed' bolts & gear pitches. Placing gear is fun, and high-stakes physics problems with weakening forearms are still at the core of our freaky, wonderful sport...I think. Have a burning urge to only establish 3 per bodylength bolt ladders? Do us all a favor, and please stay inside. Just 2 cents.
Sep 28, 2005
For those looking for a little more interest on this excellent route, try it placing gear. I skipped the first two bolts easily with a 1.5 friend at the first crux. I clipped the next two bolts and then placed a good stopper before the reach to the reinforced hold. The next bolt could be skipped but I clipped it and then placed a #3 friend in the last slot at the lip to bypass the last bolt. So in all 3 out of 7 bolts were used and two of these could probably be skipped as well. All the pieces I placed were really good.
Sep 25, 2005
Mama mia, 1-plan good for send too? for 1-plan sending, climbing 1 climb, but only 1-time, no? then climbing 4 climbs, but only 1-time each. In this way, climbing 1-climb, 1-plan, 4-plan, is very. You will find this out.
Dec 13, 2004
To repeat a previous question...where is this climb?
May 18, 2004
I have nothing against kneebars, except I suck at them. The comment above was in jest.
Apr 5, 2004
Hey Peter, what's the argument against kneebars? Sometimes they really help. I know it's been three years since you made the above comment, but you see I am new to these modern word and picture making boxes known as computers.yours truly,unfrozen caveman climber
Feb 5, 2004
Since I'd rather not go pay for a guidebook (sorry, Bob), would someone like to post the location of this climb on the wall in less ambiguous terms?
Jul 25, 2003
Skip this comment if you don't want to read beta. I think Its a tricky route for an onsight, but not too bad for the redpoint because you can really learn to milk the rests on this thing if you want to (or in my case need to). No-hands rests are possible at the 3rd, 4th, and 6th bolts, although climbing into the slot at the 6th bolt feels like cheating so I try to avoid it. The hard move at the 5th bolt (what Aron is talking about) is made considerably easier by using an undercling with the left hand -- it never has chalk on it so most people must not do it this way. The hand jam at the 7th bolt is made considerably easier by using a knee bar with right leg to brace the left knee against the left wall. Using these tricks, I don't even need to pretend I'm that Sven dude. Update 8/16/2007: the secret undercling at the 5th bolt has broken off making this move harder.
Jul 8, 2002
I actually find no aspect of this route difficult and feel 5.11d is more appropriate. I also feel that the top move is not really painful and using a spyder mitt to do it is gay! Not that there is anything wrong with that.
Jul 8, 2002
I climbed this once a long while back, and unlike the rest of the people talking about this route, I didn't find the top the crux. While that move was really tough, the move that help me up again and again was getting onto the slabby block about 1/2 way up the climb. Maybe I'm just not flexable enough.
Jul 5, 2002
I climbed this route today and had the same experience Bill had. Once you get the jam there is this little something stabbing you in the back of your hand. I myself had no spyder mitt, so for just one moment, I decided to be like that Sven guy that can't pump himself enough on this website, and [very briefly]became more manly. This fleeting infusion of "Sven-focus" allowed me to make the painful pull to the crimp. Bill, when you get back from Yosemite you must make your hand more "Sven-like" but only for just one moment, and the route shall fall! I would suggest a hammer and a small pebble to pound into the back of your hand as initial "Sven-training" for this route.
Jun 2, 2002
This is a great route for your first 5.12. I'm trying to make it my first 5.12. The protection is excellent - you're nearly on a toprope for most of the climb. I really like the variety of moves on this pitch. The hand jam move at the top is the crux for me. I recommend taping up your left hand. If this move is at your limit (as it is for me), if you fall off this move you'll get a big of a gobie on the back of your hand that will hinder further attempts. Since taping for one jam (there are two other jams that I use on this route, but no tape is necessary there) is a hassle, I wear a Spyder Mitt on just my left hand - sort of the Michael Jackson look. It works great and makes the crux hand much more comfortable and solid. Of course, some of my friends claim this is aid...
May 16, 2002
This climb does not look very good from the ground, but it is sustained and is the best short 5.12 I have done in Boulder Canyon. It would also make a great first 5.12. None of the moves are all that hard, good clipping stances, and the bolts are very close together.
Mar 14, 2002
Don't worry Peter, we all know that you are, in fact, a tough guy, and that tough guys do not use kneebars!
Dec 5, 2001
I'd just like to say that although it looks like I'm getting a no-hands kneebar on this climb, it is only for demonstration purposes and that I neither need nor endorse the use of kneebars while climbing (most of the time).
Dec 5, 2001
- Midge Squadron
Getting to the third bolt is a little scary, but the falls are clean if your belayer is on top of it. Also, clipping the second bolt provides some opportunity for injury, though this is certainly not the crux of the route. Much harder than Bad Girls Get Spanked.
Apr 30, 2009
The flake about half way up (there is a bolt on the flake itself) makes a hallow sound. It is a really big flake, and it would cause considerable damage if it came off. Has anyone else been on it recently and if so- do you feel comfortable with this?? I like this climb, but don't want to be a danger to others...
Nov 22, 2008
I attempted this last night for the second time with the same result...I got worked! Im still new to leading 11s, but this seemed much harder then the 11s in Dream Canyon....
Jul 23, 2008
Climbed this route yesterday... several tenuous moves past the first three devious bolts (not counting the two ridiculous ones down low) ...11a/b sounds about right. A lot of fun.
Apr 27, 2005
I figured that the bolts in the slab are belay bolts. This minimizes rope stretch so you wont deck on the slab. I still think the first two bolts off of the slab are in terrible locations, and hard to clip. One bolt properly placed could eliminate the other two AND remove the PG13 rating. But, I won't even start criticizing the bolting jobs in this area....
Feb 25, 2003
Did this today. It was about 35 degrees, maybe less. Good route. Tricky moves traversing left above the roof and then up. Very sustained, then easier but strenuous tothe top. It felt much harder than the two other 11s I did today in this area, Oil Pan Hook Shot 11a/b and Assault of the Earth 11a on Cornerstone. Also much harder than a several 11a or b sport routes at Security Risk last week. If this were trad ratings, I would agree with 10d/11a, but compared to other sport climbs I've done recently, 11b/c seems correct. Of course all those other 11a/b sport climbs could have been overrated. Does anyone else feel the two bolts on the slab leading to the wall are ridiculous? The move onto the slab is maybe 5.4, 10 feet off the ground. I don't think a 5.11 climber (even a sport climber :-)) needs a bolt for that. The second bolt, on the flat slab, might be useful for a short person clipping the third bolt at the lip. BTW, clip the third bolt with a locking biner to minimize the chance of hitting the slab clipping the 4th bolt.
Jan 11, 2003
I thought the climb was harder than .10d -- although easier than the .11b/c rating it receives in Rolofson's guidebook. Maybe .11a if you head for the jug above and to right of the 5th bolt and hand traverse left to the 6th bolt. It does,however, merit Rolofson's PG-13 rating. Blow the somewhat tricky 4th clip and you'll deck on the initial slab (even with a very short draw on the 3rd bolt).
Jun 8, 2002
- Mosquito Burrito
Mark, Sure, if you want a bunch of crap cluttering up the hanger, you don't need to replace the ring, but why put yourself in that situation in the first place? Just use replaceable hardware to begin with.
Aug 11, 2017
Bruce, it is simply not true that you have to replace the whole hanger when the ring wears out on a Fixe rap hanger. The hanger has enough room to add quicklinks with chains or winch hooks. I did this on the "Other One" at Sport Park. As for as this climb is concerned, I don't wander out right of the bolts on the line of least resistance, but rather climb straight up the face slightly left of the lower bolts & then right along the bolts. This makes for a nice 5.10a. The line of least resistance is 5.9. Because the route is closely bolted, there is no intimidation factor. This explains the MP consensus 5.8 rating to a large extent.
Aug 11, 2017
On high traffic routes, the best solution is to use easily replaceable hardware such as two quicklinks or a quicklink and a rappel ring per bolt. Using hangers with rings means that when the rings wear you have to replace the entire hanger. That's not too difficult for wedge bolts as long as the threads on the end of the bolt are fine, but this can be a problem with Powers 5-piece bolts where it is difficult to get the correct torque on the bolts when re-tightening them.
Feb 21, 2016
I'll jump on the comments bandwagon.... With that said, the crack feature is at most 2-ft to the right of the bolt line, which is HARDLY off route. Unless you have the reach of an infant, it would be assinine to call it off-route. By off-routing the crack, you've turned a quite enjoyable climb into an eliminate, and that BS only flies at Morrison. The crack is on. We could come up with every variation under the sun by saying, "it's 5.XX if you ignore this and 5.XX if you don't use that." Heck, you could call it 5.14 if you ignore all positive hands and feet and just use smears and slopers using nothing but vaseline for your hands in place of chalk.
Apr 30, 2014
This one was a little weird for me. It definitely depends on the line you take, and the line I took was probably a stiff 8+, maybe a 9-. That said, I think conditions play a role. We climbed it on a cold windy day, and numb hands definitely spice it up a little. On a warmer day, I could definitely see this going at 8. If you're comfortable on good friction and small seams for feet, then this route is pretty killer. If you're just breaking into 5.8, then this may not be the route for you
Nov 18, 2013
We climbed it today with a 50m rope. The rope is long enough but don´t forget to tie the rope to something.
Aug 15, 2013
I'd vote for a 5.9 if you go straight up the bolt line. The problem is that you can cheat too easily which downgrades the climb quite a bit.
Sep 6, 2012
Could use some new anchors soon. I would recommend rapping off.
Jun 2, 2011
Climbed it yesterday on a beautiful, busy day. We got blown off a couple of harder climbs earlier, and I 'd always wanted to do it. Quality route; 5.8- use caution at the second clip. Really nice slab of rock with some great edges. The anchors may be due for some retrofitting. They are starting to look a little dated. Good lead to start to regain some confidence.
May 9, 2011
I think the 5.9 rating is if you stay left and not use the right crack. Then it becomes more delicate and extremely enjoyable.
Jun 22, 2009
What a great climb! Commenting here in part to say that I'm surprised at the 9+ ratings that this is receiving. I'd suggest 8+ ... perhaps 9- at most. To compare to some nearby climbs across the creek at Watermark, it seems to be harder than Road to Isengard (5.8) but slightly easier than The Memory of Trees (5.9).
Apr 25, 2009
Ratings are subjective, naturally, and depend on the exact line you choose, your height, etc. But a 5.8 leader would not be happy with a 5.8 rating, I suspect. Definitely harder than the "Bowling ball and chain" route, which is supposedly 10a, but nowhere near as hard as "Splitting Hares," also supposedly 10a/b. Very fun pitch, worth doing, no matter what it is rated.
Oct 7, 2008
I see a lot of these routes being rated for elimination moves, recently. Betsy and I just did this route, today, and the path of least resistance, which essentially follows the bolt line within a foot or two on either side, is no harder than 5.8. There is no 5.9 or 10 move on the route unless you eliminate the holds. The only local route that I can compare this one to is "Deck Chairs on the Titanic", at Table Mountain, and Titanic is considerably harder at 5.9. And if anyone needs some perspective of what a consensus 10a slab feels like, go do Bolting for Glory, in Eldo. For beginning leaders, the only clip that concerns me is the second one above the opening roof. It's not a difficult clip, although the feet might feel insecure for a new leader, and blowing it would land you on the low angle slab below. That could be an ankle breaker. Once that bolt is clipped, the rest of the route is "well" protected and enjoyable.
Oct 12, 2007
Rockfall warning! Beware of rock fall at the base of this climb. Sitting on the rock bench, my partner and I barely avoided disaster as several large (50-60 lbs) rock pummeled this area seemingly spontaneously from just right of the anchor. Fortunately no one was hurt, but several of the rocks were definitely widow makers. There was no wind or rain at the time and no one else was around so I have to assume a fair amount of instability above this climb. Use caution!!!
May 14, 2007
Great route. The Crux is definitely at the beginning. I made the mistake of using the dihedral crack on the left at first and had to downclimb to reach the bolt I missed. Other than that, the route is great! and the anchor at the top is a little rusted, but definitely in good enough condition. Pretty sustained after the beginning.
Mar 6, 2007
Good climb to practice foot work. Definitely more difficult towards the bottom, but the 8 rating is spot on.
Aug 13, 2006
I climbed this today, mainly because I saw a bail 'biner on the 5th (or 6th or 4th?) bolt. Booty! If it is yours, and you can identify it, you can have it back.
Aug 8, 2006
This route is awesome. It's a pretty sustained fun climb. The crux is definitely towards the bottom, but easily gotten past. I didn't notice that the anchor was wearing down. It's possible I just looked over it, but could it be that it was fixed?
Jul 3, 2006
Just a fun route. Go do it if in the area. You can certainly make it harder or easier depending on the exact line. If you use the left dihedral to help with the first moves it is a lot easier. If you use the right open corner as you move higher, again much easier. I stuck to following the bolts fairly directly though was forced to move somewhat right of the bolts as i got higher before the big ledge in the middle as i am still fairly new leader. For me felt like a challenging 5.8. but very fun. Just take your time and you will find what you need.
Jun 27, 2004
Yep, I'm jumping on the bandwagon and calling it a 5.9 due to the thin moves. After a couple trips up and knowing where the friction lies and the crimps hide, one could argue an 8+ rating. For the onsight though, I'm sticking with .9. Fun route, nonetheless.
Jun 26, 2003
Great Climb. First few moves felt like a 5.9 to me !!!
May 8, 2003
I am new to this site and am somewhat confused as to what people mean by "a great beginner lead". I am what I consider to be a beginning leader. Mosquito Burrito was my third lead ever and my first 5.8. This climb was a blast. I found the move from the second to the third bolt to be thought provoking. I needed my left foot to be where my right one was, and spent some time figuring out how I was going to do this. The foothold was there but too small for me to match. I have followed at higher levels and am not sure I would have had the confidence to lead this pitch if I had not done so. The climb is well protected once you clip into the second bolt and bolts are close enough together to give beginning leaders the mental strengh to reach the top.
Apr 19, 2003
These anchors are starting to wear down. Until they get switched it is certainly prudent to TR or lower through your own gear and rap off the anchor when finished.
Mar 11, 2003
The rating pretty much depends on the line you decide to take and how much of the seam you decide to use. My buddy thought the 10a cruxes were near the last bolt and just below the ledge based on the line he took. Based on what I did I thought it was 9+ish, just below the ledge.It's all a matter of degrees.
Oct 24, 2002
Pulling direct through the overhang Right of the bolts was a 5.10a power move. The guys on this prior to me called this a boulder-problem variation. Coming in from the left on the start felt about 5.8. For my own part, I got on the route and was amazed at the friction I was getting on the smears- it is some of the best around! As for this being a great beginner lead, I've taught literally 100's of people to climb... I am used to beginners leading. I put a novice leader on it last night (a 5.9+ climber) who on-sighted the climb as one of his first-ever leads. There seems to be very little chance or fear of serious consequence, even if the leader fails on the route at any point. The bolts are spaced so close he could have Z-clipped, so it seams reasonably safe. I did yell at him twice about getting his feet in the rope (he immediately moved both times). Seems about par for the course. I had not read these comments prior to climbing the route and I consider my opinions to be formed on my own.
Jun 7, 2002
Actually, it feels like 4th class...except if you follow the bolt line and keep your hands/feet off anything big, then it feels like 10a. I would NOT call this a 'good beginner's lead' though since a bit of technique is required, including keeping the rope from behind your legs (a common beginner mistake). Any fall on the 'lower angle slab', especially w/o a helmet, could be fatal.
Mar 27, 2002
The 5.8 rating for this climb is right on. If anything, it is easier than 5.8.
Jun 26, 2001
The new Rolofson book say that if you follow this route up on the right of the bolts (kind of using the arete) then it goes at 5.9. If, on the other hand, you climb directly up the bolt line its a 5.10a/b. The route is called Mosquito Burrito (I think). Either way, it's a great climb and harder than 5.8. I found myself edging to the right (easier 5.9 territory) and would agree with the 9 grade.
Jan 1, 2001
Again what is up with the undergrading at this site? At the very least, even by Eldo standards this is 5.9. Very few 5.8 leaders will hike up the first 10 feet of this route without trouble. After the start, the grade is much more reasonable.
Jan 1, 2001
First, would you add your name? It's a lot better to know who I'm talking to. I'm not sure what it's rated in the new book, but it's "severely" slabby. The moves take a little bit to figure out, but you could basically take a nap up there on any of the moves - it's so flat.
Jan 1, 2001
- Next to Nothing
Super fun route. Very fun stemming section down low to cruxy little boulder problem on nice stone. Not sure I agree with Tony about the grade comparison between this and Meteor Rhoadblock because I came much closer to falling on Meteor than this, which leads me to believe that they are reasonably similar in grade, but I guess YMMV.
Jul 20, 2017
Burly little crux section that I thought was quite hard for 12b. The holds are bad. I didn't realize that there was even a second pitch which I did all in one with a 60 meter rope. Although, pitch 2 is a pile of choss, especially the licheny dirty slab at the top that has a sketchy move getting to the anchors. Do the first pitch, and clip chains to the right once you reach the ledge....
Apr 4, 2013
I climbed this route many times since 1998. There are times when it hasn't seemed harder than 5.12b but this year it seems much harder to repeat than "Super Bon Bon" or "Shiny Dog". I beleive Chris Alber considered rating it .12c until Fred Knapp did it and called it .12b. I think I am inclined to call it 5.12b/c. It is very stout for .12b.
Mar 5, 2013
The second pitch of this route is a choss pile. It is sketchy if not flat out dangerous reaching the first bolt after the break and the slab that follows drops down to about 5.8 until a dirty, flaky exit sequence presents itself. Better to clip the Amazing Face chains and call it good. Four stars without the second pitch.
Apr 9, 2009
12b maybe, yes...But if this is 5.12b, how can Meteor Roadblock be 12a/b there is a relative mile of difficulty between them. I suggest that this route is the more honestly graded of the two.
Sep 6, 2005
High in the grade for Boulder Canyon; difficult clip at crux.
Oct 27, 2003
- Oil Pan Hook Shot
Really a lot of ways to start this. Going far left into the chimney, it might be 10c, and you can definitely still reach the bolts. Stay straight on the bolt-line, and it's at least 11a for the first three bolts. Choose your adventure.
Oct 14, 2017
This route is listed in the wrong place. It should be between "Take the Termites Bowling" and "Bowling Ball and Chain". It is easier at the bottom, maybe 10a, if you stay in the crack on the left at the crux.
Mar 13, 2014
Did it a few times and the difficulty depends on how you do it, as is true of many routes. Stay a bit left at the crux and it is perhaps easier, which would also be true for a taller person. Top was wild/fun move.
Oct 7, 2008
If this is the route I'm thinking it is, those are some weird-butt 'bolts' (the first two).
Nov 8, 2006
5.11? No way. I have climbed in the Bowling Alley twice now and noticed that the grades here are pretty soft, in general. I don't normally warm up on 5.12s. Seems like Sport Park grades, but without the chip-and-glue. It's not a bad route, but forgettable.
May 27, 2005
I really liked the sequence of the first few moves and it made the route worth climbing. The finish was fun as well with a dyno-like move into the left finger crack leading to larger side clings to the top monster anchors!!
Apr 11, 2005
I agree with the above comment - the crux is made way easier if you're tall (my 6'4" buddy reached past the lieback seam and just grabbed the jug). Two one-move wonders with easy climbing in the middle.
Oct 28, 2002
Another forgettable sport route, with a typical face climbing crux to start with, an easy middle section, and a fricking weird ending. Have fun clipping the last bolt if you're short.
Oct 24, 2002
- Pooky Proof
Great kid's route, only one at Bowling Alley, really.
May 20, 2014
This is a fun route! We climbed it as a warm up. You can "sew" the crack up with gear if you want. A #2 Camalot is the biggest piece you need.
Mar 13, 2014
Good, fun climb at the grade. You can load this up with pro from bottom to top. Cams from fingers to BD #2 and a couple medium nuts.
Sep 25, 2011
Good feet on the left but a bit smeary on the right. Save a #1 or #2 piece for the top.
Apr 2, 2011
A fun TR to set for novice climbers, or a good climb for beginning leaders. Great stemming stances and excellent nut placements made this easy to sew up.
Oct 18, 2009
I recommend this as an excellent novice lead. The difficult moves for me were in the first 1/2 of the dihedral, and one could sew the crack completely. Also, with the rings on top, it's a very quick route (took us 40 minutes total car to car). Also, one can finish more nicely at the top by heading to the Mosquito Burrito Anchors.
Jun 6, 2008
- Shiny Dog
Hey, Curt, if you don't like it that's just fine with me. Go somewhere else. I find myself returning to this wall many times over the years. It has a quick approach, & it is more sheltered from the wind than most areas in the canyon. The fact that I can do five 5.12 routes & barely move my rope bag is a plus. It's a great training wall with much to offer. I am not condoning this route density at most crags, like really classic areas. Let's be real too, Dude. The bolts aren't 6 inches apart. They are more like 4 to 5 feet apart.
May 5, 2015
This route should have never been put in. I mean, seriously! This little section of the wall is a complete shit show with the amount of bolts and the amount of lines. There should have been Amazing Face, Meteor Roadblock, and Super Bon Bon...and that's it. All of these bolts 6 inches apart from each other seriously takes away from the existing independent lines which actually climb quite nice rock with cool movements. 'Tis a shame. Can't say I agree with this style of bolting at all....
Mar 6, 2014
Here's the scoop on "Shiny Dog". After watching Chris Alber on this route in 1998, I have climbed it many times ever since. Yes the route is squeezed, but it may be my favorite climb on this wall because there is no where to stop & rest until your hands are in the horizontal crack above 5th bolt. You don't use the large, drilled jug pocket on the neighboring route "Super Bon Bon", because if you do, it definitely changes the grade. You can hang out from this jug switch hands and shake out. As for the start, I dyno up & right with the left hand to a jug, then a few reasonable moves lead up left to 2nd bolt. Some people climb the start to "Super Bon Bon" but avoid using the manufactured jug. From a tips lieback hold below a sloping shelf, clip 3rd bolt and then reach (dyno)to a big edge and continue up the blunt arete. At 4th bolt, stay on the arete. Your left foot goes on the big hold below the bolt, and then deadpoint to the horizontal crack. If you move right at the 4th bolt around the arete, it drops the grade slightly too. It's a great training route for power endurance.
Feb 19, 2013
Wow, those bolts to his left look really close.
Oct 9, 2004
This route has not been modified. The route to the left has a comfortized jug midway up.
Jun 17, 2004
- Singin' in the Rain
- Super Bon Bon
This route totally kicks ass! Doesn't feel squeezed when you're on it.
Apr 3, 2015
So sad this line. It actually has cool powerful movement right off the deck. However the squeeze job of bolts all around it and the manufactured jug just kind of makes it a joke. I mean, every time I climb it I have fun. I guess you just have to laugh sometimes. It seems as though the person who bolted this sector really wanted to practice putting bolts in, 'cause there everywhere. If this was an independent line with no bolts to the right or left, minus the manufactured jug, it may have been an awesome route. 'Tis a shame....
Mar 6, 2014
- Take the Termites Bowling
I thought the crux on this was down low. I made it through the upper part which is supposed to be the crux. The bottom took a lot of strength. Maybe I am just not strong enough for it.
Mar 13, 2014
A pretty fun route, but certainly too close to neighbors. As was said, stay right of the bolts (keep the bolts to your left) because if you climb this belly to the bolts, you'll have to decide which line of botls to clip. There are 4 routes within 3 meters. This one, Shiny Dog, ???, and Meteor Roadblock.Maybe as another poster suggested it's been a little overdone. The line is reasonably fun though, and a good warm-up for the 5.11 climber.
May 27, 2005
Although this route isn't great to look at, it's interesting and surprisingly good. Personally I feel that the crux comes low moving past the 2nd bolt, although the upper move is also challenging.
Jan 25, 2005
Elijah, the route I am talking about is about 4 climbs to the right of Mosquito Burrito. I'm not sure if it is listed on this site. Anyone?
Oct 7, 2002
I think the route with the tree you are referring to is called mosquito burrito, and is listed in the Bowling Alley climbs. There is no tree by this route.
Oct 7, 2002
Is this the route at the rightmost area as you begin your hike up the Bowling Alley (w/ a tree within feet of your back)? If not, what is the name of that route?
Oct 7, 2002
- Woody's Landlord
This is a pretty bad pitch, but when it cleans up, it might still be bad.
Jun 15, 2017
I'd say it was 5 meters right of the arete at the right of Chihuahua Enchilada. Around the corner, on that other face...
Apr 23, 2009
- Brick Wall, The
- Brick, The
- Crease
- Finn Assis, The
- Living on the Edge
Routes on the Brick Wall are great for those who love the feeling of great friction on sparse but sometimes obvious crimpers. I felt that this route was a bit harder than 5.11 b/c and felt that some of the moves could have been as difficult as 5.12 a/b. The beginning of the climb is very enjoyable especially on a sunny spring day. The worst part of the climb is often the beginning moves because you may pendulum into some bushes on a toprope. As you climb up to the roof it does not appear to be particularly complex. Do not be fooled. For those who are under about five foot four you will find the roof to be extremely frustrating but can be solved with a three finger undercling and possibly a right heel hook depending on and individual's flexibility. After completing the arduos roof all of the possible crimps are obvious but you would be a bit more fortunate if it was a cold and friction-friendly day. To reach the anchors following the difficult prow the climbing is possibly easier than 5.8. The last time I climbed this route there was a small wired stopper stuck in a finger crack to the left of the acceptable finish. If an in-experienced intermediate or advanced climber is looking for a challenging and crimpy toprope problem, this route will feel like it was designed just for you.
Mar 19, 2005
- Perfect Route
This is a really fun route, well worth 2 stars. There are three distinct sections of difficulty: 1) A bouldery, bulge above the initial ramp. The gear is a bit tricky, but the stance below this section is fairly good, so take your time to get in a good nut or small cam before committing to the moves 2) Once above the bulge you enter a short but fun finger and hands left facing corner with greasy feet. Plenty of places for good gear and a good rest stance once above the difficulties. This rest is useful for 3) A right angling thin hands crack takes you over the lip to the top of the Brick Wall. Once over the lip, traversing 20 feet or so takes you to some chains to lower off from. You can also top rope an 11ish face climb going up the middle of the Brick Wall from these anchors.. Please use your own slings off of the anchors while top-roping to avoid unecessary wear The cruxes are short but all very different and at about the same grade. Definitely a fun pitch after work.... Josh Hemann If other Boulder Canyon climbs like Curvin Crack and Classic Finger Crack get three stars, I would certainly give this route at least two stars. The reasons: -The route is longer than the above mentioned climbs and has three distinct cruxes (a bouldery, bulge start, a finger crack corner with greasy feet, and a thin hands roof to finish) -Short approach if you decide not to belay from the car -Can easily top rope the 11 face climb once you finish The Perfect Route. So... If stars are supposed to convey to people the quality of the route and "climbing experience", I would recommend adding some stars to this route
Jun 15, 2003
- South Face
The crux is near the top, and the last horizontal crack has no good holds. The best holds are slopers.
Jun 6, 2016
There was a time in the late '80s and early '90s when it was a crapshoot to find the Brick Wall available especially after 5 pm. Nowadays when I pass by, it is usually wide open. This seems to be the same for a lot of crags around Boulder these days. I just don't see many climbers out in Boulder Canyon after work in the spring - summer - fall anymore. Maybe that's a good thing?
Sep 7, 2011
This reminded me of Question of Balance in Taylor Canyon, Gunnison. Similar rock slickness, similar length (this is a little longer), similar increase in severity as you go higher, similar failure for me on both (couldn't get the last few moves, glad I was on toprope!).
Sep 19, 2007
This is a fun route, my buddy Ryan and I toproped it. It got kind of cold at about three o'clock, but I'll take what I can get in February. I'm suprised more people don't climb here. If you feel pretty good when you start this, if you move a little farther left from the start, the first moves are more like 5.8+. Still fun though!
Feb 20, 2007
Crease and South Face are both listed as route #3. Which is which?
Aug 20, 2004
Fun route with the crux IMHO near the top when climbing in between the two cracks. Definitely some real fun moves down low, then get the pump going in between the two cracks. Enjoy the super easy TR set-up.
May 24, 2003
- Thick as a Brick
- Broken Rock
- Crack Up
If you blindfolded me on the drive/approach, then put me on this climb, I would have told you that we were in Vedauwoo. I have big hands, so it felt like 5.9 but in the most physically burly way possible. Easier than Black Crack though.
Apr 7, 2016
Pretty physical for 5.9...I guess maybe "Castle Rock 5.9" (think The Black Crack). I think folks with small hands will find this to be significantly harder. I thought it was a decent pitch if you're looking for something different to do in the area. At the top, there are now nearby anchors on White Trash, so you don't have to choose one of the options Tony describes.
Jun 15, 2015
There is only one area with guano on this at the moment, and it is avoidable. This climb is hard for 5.9, but most 9+ climbs do feel pretty difficult.
Apr 6, 2015
I have average guy size hands, and only had to throw one fist in for the whole route. I give this three stars for: steepness, even nature, great jams, and I found it dirty only down low.
Jun 18, 2009
Pretty good route with shade. Seemed a little stiff for 5.9--pretty wide down low.
Jul 16, 2005
Tried this once some years ago when I was a fairly solid 5.9 leader and got spanked. Extra #3 Camalots/#3.5 Friends.
May 29, 2003
- Eulogy
- Fit for Life
This is no BoCan 12a. Gear isn't necessary on the mid-route runout, it is pretty mellow terrain compared to the rest of the route. The last three bolts are sustained, tricky climbing with bad feet.
Jul 16, 2017
I would like to watch a dozen good climbers do this one and see how they do it. I guess 12c is maybe an exageration, I was able to get it first go on TR (although absolutely barely). All total, I am 5/6 on it (fell on #5 last night, much swearing), but man is it hard as hell. I always feel like I am falling off of every move through that first 2 bolts off the ledge. I am curious about Tony's comments about the small holds - I couldn't figure out how to use anything other than pretty decent holds. Mostly just the direction of them and the utter lack of feet is what makes it hard to be confident on this one.
Jun 20, 2014
Ouch! I was able to TR this route without falling when we put it in. Since my climbing ability was already in decline by then, I doubt I could climb 5.12c. I believe we did not rate it 5.12a either. Whatever the rating, it is a really good climb. You should have seen how much lichen was there when we started.
Jun 20, 2014
I would have to disagree with the assumption that this route is easier if you are tall. The brutal undercling/laybacking would probably favor a shorter person. I thought this thing felt closer to 12c than 12a. I was really surprised at how hard it is, compared to other 12a's by the same FAs. Overall, a good route. Would be a 3 star route if the shit was cleaned off of the best holds and some lichen was scrubbed.
Jun 20, 2014
This climb is a lot better than it looks from the ground. We used a #1 Camalot in the horizontal.... Though if you get here and you have no cams, I think it wouldn't be too ballsy to do without the piece. Hard and sequential.
Feb 19, 2011
This route is pretty stiff and would be a really tough OS. I found that it was slick and dusty, so hard to hold onto, but mosly solid and not crumbly like some other area routes. The layback flake is quite thin, and the best holds are not obvious. At the end of the crux sequence, the "jug" is just out of reach for a guy my height (5'10"), and I suspect that there is a strong dividing line for difficulty vs. height on this one. Also, being light probably helps, as some of the holds are viciously small for the power you have to put on them.
May 19, 2009
- Lichet or Leave It
- Momentum Operator
How did I spend so much time at Castle Rock over the last couple of years without getting on this? A mystery to be sure, but this climb is just pure fun. A combination of varied crack technique with intricate, sequence-based footwork through an overhang, it's one of those sequences that seems like such a puzzle that it's hard to believe it wasn't created by a route-setter at the Spot. Heads up, after the crux I got up into the chimney and set loose a swarm of weird bugs. A sunny winter day after the frost/cold has thinned the bug population would be a more optimal time to hop on.
Nov 2, 2015
The exit is pretty wild in that it involves a strange technique. It is easier than the crux cracks below. The route is fun, but the hard part is short.
Apr 6, 2015
The exit is pretty wild.
Sep 1, 2013
Damn, I thought that kind of stuff only happened to me....
May 1, 2011
Fun Climb. I was leading and I fell turning the first roof with a cam at about my waist and another right below my feet. The clip in point on the back of my climbing shoe clipped into the quickdraw on the cam at my feet and flipped me over. It's pretty hard to extricate yourself while hanging from your heel.
May 1, 2011
More of a boulder problem than the gill crack, the business is followed by 20 feet of 5.4.
Jun 17, 2009
This is one of the best climbs of the grade in Boulder Canyon. It has it all. Rad chimney. Head jam optional. Fingers, hands, tight hands, stemming....
Aug 25, 2008
This climb is another victim of change in the CB/MP star system. Both of the previous posters' ratings were provided under the old system when a 2* single pitch meant "great". This pitch is quite fun and memorable. The only thing keeping it from classic status is its brevity.
Jun 16, 2007
- Muad'Dib
Fun lower crux, decent route for sure if you're in the area. Unfortunate bolting though - definitely some unnecessary ledge/deck potential with the bolt placement. Funny how you round the corner and the grades change, felt like a BoCan 10b but a Castle Rock 9.
Jan 23, 2017
The area by the second bolt is certainly the crux. The moves are not obvious, and it takes some thought to figure out the best sequence. The steep part up high is strenuous but not that hard.
Apr 6, 2015
Two hard parts, the rest easy. First hard part at 2nd bolt, about 10c.
Aug 6, 2009
Great start to this route, requiring balancy, slab technique. The moves were non-obvious, and the thought process was part of the fun.
Jul 4, 2007
Great route for the length. Seemed about 10c.
Jun 11, 2006
...the one who can be many places at once...
Apr 20, 2006
- Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer
I can see where it is a different climb if you want to stay completely away from the stinkin' piles of BS in the corner... but yeah, those are retrobolts and the climb is 5.10. For a 5.11, get on Momentum Operator, to the right.
Jun 29, 2015
In the '99 Rositer book, this line is described as 'Out to Pasture', 10a, Hare and Wood, 1980, which seems about right. Funny that somewhere since it gets two bolts, renamed, and upgraded. Don't know how its described in the newer BC book, but then you wouldn't know anything re the history or first ascentionist from that guide anyway.... Fun little line.
Jun 12, 2011
Agree with Dave, probably a full number grade easier. There is a route in the Rossiter book, I think it is called "Altar" (5.10) that seems very similar to Momentus Fist Trainer, minus the bolts at the start....
Jun 24, 2009
This climb was inspired by the Momentus Swing Trainer which is designed to improve your golf swing. This climb will help you improve your fist jamming technique.
May 17, 2006
- South Beach
This route is harder than 10-. I agree that it is about 10b in difficulty. The crux is near the third bolt.
Apr 6, 2015
As for all these sport routes, crumbly rock in need of cleaning. This one is not 10-. 10b at least. Worth doing.
Aug 6, 2009
- Tree Trimmer
Bolts replaced 5/11/17, hardware was provided by your donations to the ASCA! safeclimbing.org.
May 11, 2017
- White Trash
FA was certainly done on or before 2003 as a T.R. (myself) but it was more than likely much earlier- it's obvious and it's below the anchors. FFA: Bob, Ron & Greg I guess, because I don't know that anyone led it. But that leaves to ethical question the practice of bolting TR's. Seems like a grey area when it's unknown and in a relatively unpopular area. So perhaps the question is bolting what could so obviously be one?
Jul 14, 2006
- Bummers Rock
- Canyon Block
- Blues for Allah
- Canyon Block Project
- Damaged Goods
- Israel
- Palestine
- Rude Boy
- Scorcher
The end of the crack is the most difficult. The crack pushes you to the left when you want to jam straight in. The cold shut anchor would be good after a lead, but to top rope it is easier to set an anchor above.
Sep 26, 2014
A two-coldshut anchor is immediately to the left, at the top of the crack, just below the rim.
Apr 6, 2014
- Shallow Jam
The protection on this is not great. There is gear but not a lot and not always when you want it. You don't jam very much in this crack. Things get easier near the top.
Sep 26, 2014
- Tricks are for Kids
I had forgotten about this one. It's worth the walk up the hill.
Sep 18, 2008
- Wallflower
- Castle Rock
- Acro-Ace, The
- Acro-Aerial, The
I felt like the 2nd jump was harder than the first to the good crimp. Maybe I did it strange, but after matching on the crimp after the initial lunge if you stay off the left hold which traverses into the V6, there’s no other holds until a bigger throw to a sloper at the top. Definitely no harder than a V7, but it took a few goes. Is this the intended beta?
Oct 20, 2017
- Acrobatic Overhang
The original start of AO seems a bit awkward and hard to reach without jumping, even for me at 5'9" with a +2. I started far right on an obvious, juggy rail/seam and crossed/crimped my way into the crux of AO. Felt V5ish and was great fun! Excellent features/movement on quality stone. Classic!
Apr 25, 2017
The landing has been leveled, and there is no need for the R rating any longer. I don't really know how to feel about the extensive landscaping that took place here. On one hand, I'm grateful to finally have a terrific warmup on perfect rock with a safe landing zone. On the other, the landscaping totally changes the nature of this climb and the bold, visionary, first ascent will never again be pause for reflection when one contemplates this line. I hope that in the future, when traffic and erosion dictates trail building, people (or counties) will consider all resources before building ten foot wide trails at the bases of rock formations.
Apr 9, 2012
I remember going here around 1976 with Ament's Master of Rock book. Bachar and I were trying to do all the problems in the book and it had a classic of Gill with a hat on powering across the traverse. I remember thinking this problem was pretty classic but without pads, you had to fire it for sure, as the fall was onto rocks. This seemed more tenuous than soloing the longer Gill Crack (5.12a or so). John
Aug 2, 2010
If you start down low in on a crimp rail system, below where the original line traverses, and make a huge dynamic toss that reconnects the original line it's more like (V6)!! It's a cool move that is put's a new face on this already classic line. Also moving off this same crimp rail up and left via smaller but positive crimps adds another cool variation that's about (V4) or so. Point.... this is a cool and dynamic wall with some interesting options for difficulty and style of climbing. Not to be missed!!
Aug 25, 2009
Sorry about the wrong photo beta info...guys. I think this one is called "The Standard Bulge." And this V5 is on the Citadel formation for sure. Thanks for your input.
Aug 25, 2009
Nice pic, wrong problem, not even the right formation. This is on the Citadel, a hundred yards and over the bridge from the real AO.
Aug 24, 2009
This picture is not of AO, it's a V5 by Cage Free. Nice picture, it to is a great boulder problem.
Aug 24, 2009
This rig is always a killer warm-up for me, but I love the line.
Aug 24, 2009
- Aid Roof
Completed the left crack (according to the pictures and description) with Eddie as it looked longer and more fun. All placements were bomber, and the smallest gear used was only a black Alien, which probably could have even been avoided. Mostly yellow TCU/Alien-sized pieces, I think we used 3. Overall a very fun (and extremely awkward) little pitch, with the old Star Drive at the lip probably being the sketchiest part of the whole affair. This is also a great place to go if you want to get out but it's raining/snowing. It rained hard the entire time we were there, but the roof is, well, a large roof and does its job quite well!
Sep 12, 2013
I solo aided this route today during the snow storm, it stays really dry. I used anything from a blue Lowe Ball and larger micro nuts up to a #3.5 and even a hook near the top. I took the right side line with the bolts but decided it was never really necessary to clip them. The right side seemed like it might be harder as an aid line as the placments were often flared out, which the left side did not seem to have the same issue. I found that I used my yellow/red and yellow/green Alien hybrids quite a bit near the lip. C2? (I have no idea)
Mar 2, 2008
Cleaning the routes is easier than leading them IF:1)you place pro every couple of feet. Do Not place pro at your farthest reach.2)you RE-AID the pitch. The pro is in place, no jumars, clip and go, backup your self
Dec 1, 2003
The left hand crack goes at A2+ with Lost Arrows and Angles or can be done cleanly at C3 wtih Lowe Balls and small TCUs. It's definitely a notch up in difficulty from the right hand crack and quite fun.I believe the A4 branches off the left hand line and certainly appears to be dicey. As a word of encouragement, if you can aid the C1 roof without clipping the bolts and get up CCC in under a couple hours, you probably have the necessary aid skills to do a starter big wall in Zion or Yosemite. Also, it's worth noting that cleaning either line is probably harder than leading them.
Nov 29, 2003
I aided it in July '02 and it felt like an easy A2. I left a large stopper before the first bolt that I couldn't get out..is it still there?
Dec 14, 2002
It's a bummer that your QDs got stolen, man. However,Castle Rock is primarily a trad area and getting stuff stolen is something to take into consideration when leaving gear behind in areas where such practice is rare (unlike sport-crags). I think that taking the bolt hangers, though, is a much worse offense because its affects go beyond one or two folks trying to free the route. In the particular case of Aid Roof, the bolts really don't matter because it's still just C1. But imagine someone aiding a route with rivets and/or bolts and then rappelling it to chop/take them out. Suddenly, a section of C1 or C2 turns into a C3+(or worse) horror show with continuous top-step bat-hooking. Sure, these climbs exits but for a novice aid climber expecting C1 bolt ladders... I greatly respect anyone who even attempts to free these kinds of climbs. And just because some hard working free climbers left gear doesn't automatically mean it is booty. I doubt that the dude who stole those QDs and hangers ever attempted to free the line. Sure, the draws might be a little unsightly, but their presence on such a badass route is much more inspirational than annoying.
Oct 24, 2002
Comparing the addition of bolts to this route to those on CCC is not fair. CCC was put up when there was crap for gear and free climbing was not what it is today. While I am a far cry from sending this route free, I have climbed similar features such as Separate Reality or Welcome To China (near Gunnison) where placing gear and having the rope get in the way of my feet was a large part of the difficulty. My guess is that some of these difficulties are why the bolts were added to this route, as the A1 gear is foolproof. I would like to think that in 50 or 100 years climbers will be cruising this thing and will laugh at whoever put the bolts in. That said, I am more impressed with this as a free route than bummed about the bolts. It's an odd idea to reduce a route by adding bolts while improving the route by freeing it; maybe someone else can improve upon the syle.
Oct 23, 2002
No I have not tried the roof free, but that is irrevelent. I think that there are very little odds of the gear 'welding' into place (this assumes that the gear is well placed). Have you freed or aided the roof to see what gear is available? I disagree with leaving natural pro in the rock for several days or more so one can work the moves. There are several empty bolt holes on CCC and I am very glad that all of the unnecessary bolts were removed. I do not detest the bolts in the aid roof, but I do not like to see draws hanging from it - the difference being how much more noticable one is compared to the other. I met one gentleman who was attempting to redpoint the roof and I told him "good work, certainly more than I could do without aiders". If you want to ask any more personal questions, email me at the email I provided. That way we can keep unnecessary bullshit off this public site.
Oct 23, 2002
Have you tried the route free? What do you think the odds are that any gear placed for a free ascent is going to stay there, eventually welded in place by climbers falling and hanging to work out the moves? By the way it's been a while but wasn't there a bolt next to a perfect crack on Country Club?
Oct 23, 2002
I could see your reasoning on the CCC and Athlete's Feat if there were bolts next to the perfect cracks on each climb with quick draws hanging from it. Two bolts and one visible anchor on each climb are not the eyesore that three brightly colored draws hanging on a roof are. In my original post, I was only pointing out the fact that the draws were very noticeable and it only takes a couple of complaints by non-climbers to close an area (bolt ban in the Flatirons for example). I was also pointing out that the roof takes great gear, whether placed on lead or on aid, and the bolts are not needed. I greatly respect the effort to free the roof, but do the means justify the end? Some climber really need to open their eyes to the impact, visually and audibly in some cases, to the other people who are enjoying the area, climber or non-climber. I find it interesting that gear left on a route (besides fixed anchors) is considered booty unless it is on a sport climb. As easy as it is to clip a draw to a bolt, is it really necessary to leave the draws on the bolts? I realize the climb is hard, but clipping all the quick draws in place is not.
Oct 22, 2002
If everthing that wasn't rock was removed from Castle Rock a lot of classic so-called "trad" routes would be a lot less popular, starting with Country Club Crack and Athlete's Feat.
Oct 22, 2002
It's great some one removed your gear. Yee whoo! Booty. If folks removed everything left at the cliff that wasn't rock we wouldn't be having these discusions about bolts.
Oct 22, 2002
That sucks that someone took your gear. Fortunately, even thought the two hangers were removed, the route accepts bomber gear through out the whole climb. Preplace it on aid if you can't place it while on lead. It would be nice not to see draws continually hanging from it (especially because of the non-climbers who pass through and see the 'crap hanging on the rock' and want the area closed to those crazy climbers).
Oct 21, 2002
I tried this route on 10.19.02- worked all of the moves, had a great time, left my draws on it planning to return the next day to try and redpoint it. When I came back in the afternoon of 10.20, I found not only my draws missing, but the first 2 bolt hangers removed. The loser(s) who did this, left one of my slings looped through the third bolt hanger so they could get off. Apparently who ever did this, aside from being a complete asshole, must have been a completely incompetent free climber since they left my quickdraw at the anchor which requires mandatory 5.9 hand crack climbing to reach. Based on the evidence found at the scene, and composites developed through several witnesses, the suspect is a white male, 25-40 yrs, soft and pudgy with a pasty complexion. He probably suffers from a lack of affection from his mother growing up. Consequently, has never had an intimate relationship with a woman. His only contact with the female sex is through the internet, magazines, or role playing video games. Based on the way the route and my gear was treated, the suspect was probably abused as a child. Suspects poorly developed sense of self-esteem, resulting in below average aptitude in sports, poor social skills
Oct 20, 2002
A boulder problem, huh? Interesting. The route goes free at 5.14 and when I solo-aided it, all the bolts had QDs on them (hope you finally worked it buddy). Don't kid yourself into thinking this is a first-timer aid route. I saw a party bail after the first bolt and then spend 20 minutes trying to rap off the bolt in high winds. Keep it low in your aiders. You can cheater-stick between bolts if you absolutely have to, but why?
Sep 23, 2002
- Alien Sex Toy
- Altered-Acro
- Athlete's Feat
This climb is hard and awkward, at least the first 3 pitches. Yosemite-esque grading system. All anchors are bolted. All the cracks gobble up gear. P1 - 2 clips, super tough mantel move. Not recommended right after a rain. Come to think of it, none of it should be climbed right after it rains. Maybe I should take my own advice... 11+. P2 - Overhang crack/corner/lieback. Awkward. Hard. Throw a #4 in there, and blast up! 11-. P3 - A slightly easier version of P2. 10d. P4 - Fantastic. Good exposure on some jams. I beached whaled to get over the last bit. Super fun. 10c. P5 - Sweet exposure. Watch out for that last flake, it's pretty hollow. There's definitely a death block waiting to be pulled out (it had an X on it when I climbed). To be honest, I was a little disappointed with this climb. Everybody says it's super classic this, super classic that, but the pitches are really short and awkward. The only good pitches with cool exposure are 4-5. I'm sure many disagree with me, but hey, what are internet forums for anyway? Descent: head north.
Sep 1, 2017
Pssssshhh, fuck you, guys, that mantel move isn't 11a, and you know it. Cold conditions are mandatory for the opening moves (as with CCC) otherwise you're just senselessly flogging the tips. Come to think of it, cold conditions are useful for the rest of the climb as well. You can combine the first three pitches with a tagline to rap on for a really phenomenal lead and toprope after with some directionals, great and very physical training.
Sep 8, 2016
Gee... a couple of months before Rick Linkert's ascent in 1973 (see above) we "sort of" looked at this climb. Looked very hard then, and Ivan's photo makes it still look hard! Broken hold or not at the mantel, "ya gotta give credit" to anyone who climbed this before the advent of "sticky rubber".
Apr 20, 2016
WARNING: As of 4/9/2016, there are two extremely loose blocks at the top of pitch 5, roughly 5-10 feet left of the final anchors. They are both about half a cubic meter large, and exceedingly prone to being cast down the 5th pitch and any climb below. They are both on route for the Athlete's Feat and look pretty solid, but they're not. On the other hand, what an amazing climb! Pitch 1 was... strenuous. Pitches 2-4 are immaculate, and pitch 5 was fun as well. You should go do this climb!
Apr 9, 2016
Hmmm. I'm surprised it's not greasier. It's not too bad when it's cooler out....
Mar 17, 2014
Thanks for your time and efforts, Gregger Man!
Feb 16, 2014
Replaced the 2nd bolt on P1 today by cleanly extracting the stud and installing a 1/2" x 3" SS PowerBolt and SS Fixe hanger.
Feb 16, 2014
Few routes deliver such sustained and varied climbing at the grade. Pitch 4 was the easiest for me on account of I have reasonable balance, and pitch 1 was sorta easy (but my solution was very height-dependent). Pitch 2 and 4 were just ass kickers - because I kinda suck at picking the right pro while pumped and reaching around a semi-blind corner! Best skill for the send is gonna be efficient pro placement (and choice), 'cause the moves are sustained. What a blast!
Nov 16, 2013
I just stumbled across this thread and thought I would add a bit of amusing history. I climbed Athlete's Feat in the fall of 1973; at the time it still had a bit of a reputation. Years of mantling in Yosemite were helpful on the first pitch. The second pitch was scream. There was an old "sucker" piton beat into the horizontal crack. The problem was that it was beat so far into the crack that it would not accept a carabiner - any carabiner. And I tried every style I had on the rack. By the time I figured out what was going on, my arms were pretty flamed. I got some nut in and kept chugging to the belay. My partner was pretty amused. I remember that pro in the pre-cam era was a bit sketchy on the wide pitches.
Jan 23, 2012
Thanks to chains at the end of every pitch, you can easily get off this with one rope as of summer 2010.
Sep 2, 2010
Was on CCC today, looks like the last pitch of Athlete's Feat, is now sporting a set of anchors, still some mank at the end of the third.
Sep 23, 2008
I was on this thing with a buddy a few years back, when I got on top he said "something bit me!" Sure enough, he had two little holes on his calf that were oozing blood. He was convinced that it was a bat and paid for the rabies series - $1200 - ouch! With all of the photo's you guys post of this climb, I'm surprised there isn't one of the hibernacula. Watch out!
Jun 18, 2008
What a classic climb! I wish though I had read some of the comments before embarking with my wife. I figured a bit of 11a and then a fun 5.10. It took me about 10 times to get the crux move on p.1. If it wasn't for Bob D'Antonio and a group of his friends shouting beta, I would probably still be there trying various possibilities. On p.2, the move from the layback into to the crack was hardish (a fist jam above the chalked hold in the crack worked for me). The p.3 exit was very physical. My last piece was about half way down the crack. Scary. It may be helpful to bring no. 5 Camalot, just for the peace of mind. Now to pitch 4. This was the scariest, most insecure pitch I've climbed in a while. The gear is good (small up to 0.75), but the rock is polished and the moves are sketchy. For me too, this was the hardest pitch (not counting p.1), though it would be very hard to choose the hardest move. I suppose every move is 5.10a or something. Now to my question, how were pitches 3 and 4 protected before cams?
Sep 20, 2007
From Pat Ament, writing on Supertopo: There is a route on Boulder Canyon's Castle Rock called Athlete's Feat. The name was given by Robbins when he and I did the route all free (now rathed one pitch of 5.11 and four of 5.10, pretty stiff for 1964, no chalk, Spiders for shoes). Anyway the route had been mostly aided before but not named. The first pitch is an amazing, smooth, bulging wall. Robbins did a finger-tip undercling up and left, on vertical rock, with his fingers under a thin flake, then -- while holding with the right hand under the cling, reached up and right, above him, with his left hand, leaning backward, to get his left finger tips on a small hold at the upper lip of the bulge. The feet aren't on much. For protection he had only a scary-looking bugaboo piton hammered straight up under the thin flake. Below is a big spike of granite that might impale you if you fell. He pulls up on the left finger-tip hold and reaches above the bulge. There is mostly nothing up there but a steep smooth slab and a not-so-good hold to pinch for the right hand. To make a long story short, he does a wild, sloping mantel up onto that smooth, slanting surface, a really bold lead way above his pro, with a ground fall likely onto that spike probably if he failed. Years later I was strolling along the road, came around the corner, and saw a guy standing in aid on that section. He'd already placed a bolt and was drilling another one above that one, right where the master had carved with me such a beautiful Michelangelo of an ascent. I tried not to go crazy and simply said to the leader, "What are you doing?" He replied, "Puttng up a new route." I replied, "I hate to tell you, but that route goes all free. It has been led without protection." The answer came back to me, "Oh SURE it was, SURE it was done free." I realized I could do or say nothing, so walked away. A few days later the two climbers were spreading it all over town, "Ament was up at Castle Rock trying to tell everyone how to climb." Anyway, for a long time subsequent free climbers used those bolts for protection. I think the top bolt is still used, creating in essence a top-rope for the bold, crux move. Not many know what a brilliant lead that was back in the stone age... Fred Flintstone
Jun 15, 2007
Well, I have always wondered how solid that fixed Alien on P2 was. As we climbed it today, I clipped it (and backed it up--I've never really liked it) and kept going. It didn't appear to be any different than I remembered. As my partner climbed up to it, the motion of the rope as he approached was enough to cause it to fall out of the crack. Kind of scary. I'm pretty sure I fell on this cam a few years ago, and I know I've seen others fall on it. The cam is mutilated. The cams don't even move anymore.
Oct 14, 2006
Fun route, but be careful when plugging in cams just off the 2nd belay. Apparently there were some loose flakes in there when I did it, and when I fell just after the bulge I pulled a solid-feeling #2 Camalot which extended the fall all the way back to the belay ledge. My partner says he saw a bunch of rock fragments fly out when the cam blew. I wasn't injured or anything, but it was the first piece of gear that I ever had pull out on me.
Jan 31, 2006
There is graffiti in black sraypaint that reads Deb I You-05' about twenty feet from the base of the crack-very ugly. the same thing is tagged across the road on the low-angled climbs... Access Fund, please scrub this stupidity off the side of this tower.
Jul 6, 2005
Fun and in your face climbing. Most of the real cruxes are short, but to me the 10b and 5.9 pitches run togehter presented the most challenge. They are consistently insecure and seem harder than their respective grades, particularly finishing up 'direct' from the last set up chains, going up on a crack to the steep flake to the right. This is one of the better routes at Castle. After climbing this again in the cold, I think that the difficulty is very weather dependant. Cruisable in the right temps, close to impossible if too hot or cold.
Jun 9, 2005
Some excerpts from the description of Athelete's Feat in the 1970 High Over Boulder guidebook by Pat Ament and Cleveland McCarty (Royal Robbins and Pat Ament did the FFA of Athlete's Feat): ...Involving some of the most severe and sustained 5th class climbing in the Boulder area, with three leads of 5.10 and two 5.9, this route incites respect in all acrobats with a lust for maximum difficulty.... [Check this out about P1! No bolts.] Climb to the top of the flake, place a piton to the left (above your head) [but below the slab!] for protection, and climb up and over a severe bulge to the bench.... The second lead is one of the most difficult 5th class pitches in the region... The third lead (5.10) is the shortest (although it refuses to let the party rest). It was first led free in 1964 by Dave Rearick [same year as the FFA]. Layback up a severe, overhanging bong-bong crack [for you youngsters, bongs are big angle pitons], and make a difficult exit move.... The fourth lead does not ease off. Climb straight up the deceptively easy-looking corner above...
Jun 27, 2004
And some excerpts from Jim Erickson's 1980 Rocky Heights guide: A classic Robbins pun, a classic route, and the most continuous free climb in the country in 1964 [but perhaps not the technically hardest?]. The first pitch, which was originally more serious [see mention of piton in previous comment], now has a bolt above the bulge for protection, thanks to some idiots who didn't believe it could be climbed free. A broken hold has increased its standards a little.....History: In 1964 Royal Robbins and Pat Ament climbed the entire route free, with pitches one and two extracting some tries.
Jun 27, 2004
After a humiliating day on (and much off) Athlete's Feat, it was reassuring to read some of the comments above about people getting _crushed_ by this route. If I had read the comments this morning, I would have gone back to bed. To complete the humiliation, as we topped out, we got hit by a lightning storm and pouring rain. I first did this route with my brother Paul and Rich Perch (a long time Grand Tetons climbing ranger and now a ranger in Canyonlands) in 1975 during a short stopover in Boulder on the way to Yosemite. Although we didn't have to wear Kroenhopher's (spelling doesn't look right), neither did we have cams and fancy nuts. Basic stoppers and hexes. But there were probably some fixed pins. The key hold on the P1 mantle probably hadn't broken yet. Don't remember much about P2 and P3. We may have taken a few falls, but we were young and foolish and may have just went for it without much gear. I do remember P4 and how surprisingly hard it was. Today, after a few half-hearted efforts we aided P1. Highly recommended (to aid it). I got partly up using the technique Bill Wright mentions on 6/14/02, but didn't have the motivation, and perhaps not the strength, to follow through with the mantle. What seemed most promising to me was this, not mentioned above: There is a good crimp for your right hand on the _lip_ out right. Best hold on this pitch. Left hand to the big pinch, but use it as a layback. Now that you are to the right, there are no footholds. I leaned out and walked my feet up and then threw my left foot high onto the small but positive hold on the lip to the left. Started to pull onto the foot, but couldn't quite make it. I won't say much about pitches 2-4, other than that 2 and 3 weren't pretty. Can we say we did _Upper Athlete's Feat_? With rain threatening I started up the easy-looking P5 9 variation. Ran into trouble with some bird shit on the _ledge_. Not too bad, but psyched me out. Wasn't sure what to do here, and ended up hand traversing left to join up with the top of the 8 variation. The 9 variation apparently continues up the left curving crack. There are also some flakes angling a bit right that look climbable.
Jun 27, 2004
as of a couple days ago, no fuzzy little winged needles on the fourth pitch. Very good route, the fixed alien and nut most-definately helps with the second pitch.
May 20, 2004
CAUTION!!! There is a wasp's nest about two-thirds of the way up pitch 4. Three or four wasps started swarming around my partner as she led it. She lowered quickly until they left her alone, and then went back and down-aided to get the gear out. The nest is right in the crack and is unavoidable, but you can rappel off from the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd belay of this route, so you can still do the first few pitches. It's probably best to just wait for the wasps to vacate in the fall.As for climbing it in summer, it can be done. This time of year the first pitch gets sun at about 9 AM, and you better be done with it by then or it becomes virtually impossible. The rest of the pitches aren't as bad on a hot day.All things considered, this is one of the better routes I've done in the canyon. Royal sure knows how to pick 'em.
Aug 7, 2003
This is by far the hardest route I have ever tried. The sad thing is that me and some friends from Nebraska only did the first pitch. It was blast trying it and if you can get someone to put it up on TR for you try it out. Although after flailing around it may just be easier to lead it.
Aug 29, 2002
Hey [Willie], sounds like [Charles] might not have gotten the redpoint on this one.
Aug 28, 2002
It is very gratifying to hear such comments, as I recently returned to this route and got crushed. I couldn't do the first pitch crux for the life of me. Then I got hammered leading the second pitch and fell off the third pitch (following, thankfully). At that point the fourth pitch felt utterly desperate. My partner, who cruised everything put the crux move and eventually got that, called the 4th pitch the hardest on the route (not counting the crux move). I think this route is a lot harder than CCC when taken in their entirety. They have similarly hard, crux starts and while CCC has a harder crack crux and a more sustained section of climbing, it doesn't have as many very hard sections as this route. Back to the drawing board on this one for me...
Jul 15, 2002
Agreed on the sandbag thing, especially pitches 1, 3, and 4... probably just the high polish factor though. Still, if you can lead this whole route clean, then you should be able to get up Astroman.
Jul 15, 2002
Holy sandbag! IMO, every pitch is difficult for the given ratings. Very worth doing though.
Jul 15, 2002
I just recently did this route got the mantle clean (on TR) for the first time. I not sure what "bucket hold" Steve is talking about, but this is how I did it. Undercling with the left hand as usual and obvious. I can then make a big reach (six feet tall) and get the crummy pinch over the roof with my right hand. Feet are very tricky at this point and you have to really pay attention so you don't slip off. Then I put my left hand on the tiny, painful crimp on the lip of the roof. I quickly switch this to mantle position and then get my left foot up on an edge BELOW the lip of the roof. Once there I press out the mantle and struggle to get my right foot over the lip. I used to think this mantle move was harder than the Country Club Crack start, but now I think they are pretty similar in difficulty. Each one is very difficult and solid 5.11 (especially when compared to sport route ratings in this canyon) and each one involves a "trick". Tough, fun stuff. Also, I led the third pitch with a single #3 Camalot. This might be a little bold, though I'm not known to do such things, but I think it is the easiest way to do this pitch. Lieback up to the foothold and get a jam. Place the #3 Camalot and get ready to gun for the top. Lieback the rest of the way until you can reach over the top and thankfully get a hand jam. Don't blow it up here, but if you do it this way the entire pitch will take about two minutes to lead.
Jun 14, 2002
- Atlas Shrugged
Start has a good nut about 8 feet up then nothing to the first bolt. The low nut would be useless when you're making the 10ish moves to the bolt, you would be soloing (the apparent rail 20 ft up has no pro). I extended the first bolt with draws, and then it's reasonable to lead and a super fun route. What a gem! The upper crux pulls fine without gear after the bomber corner gear - spicy but a clean fall. Personally, I would way rather have the first bolt 8 ft. lower to avoid the decker. It doesn't need more bolts, but it's too bad they were kinda poorly placed, IMHO. Really a great line though!
May 30, 2016
4 star movement and rock quality, if only a little short. 3 stars overall. Spectacular face climbing. This is intimidating to onsight but easy to redpoint after working out the moves and gear. Do not try to overprotect by placing gear in the jug slots. Instead, gun it for the horizontal crack and place a #6 BD stopper and a purple Metolius/blue Alien equivalent. The runout start is on fairly moderate climbing compared to the crux. Blowing at the crux could result in an unpleasant swing to the right.
Sep 2, 2015
I took the fall just before the first bolt after probably 30+ ascents on lead. It's actually not all that bad of a fall with a soft landing...no more bolts please. Bring a crash pad if youre worried.
Apr 22, 2014
The route is R for sure. There is one good directional nut placement down low, although it would still be potentially a 30' ground-fall from the next moves getting to the bolt. They are maybe 10a moves but on small feet. Awesome movement.
Jul 7, 2013
This route is definitely R rated if starting from the left ramp as opposed to directly beneath the first bolt. If starting along the ramp, be prepared for a dicey unprotected move. Cool route.
Jun 23, 2012
Fine route with sketchy start. Looked like there was a place for tiny nut, but I would have doubts falling on it. The move from which you can hit the ground is only about 5.9, so I don't know how appropriate R rating would be in context of the whole route. A yellow C3 perfectly protects traverse left at the top, so you don't have to swing into the corner if you blow it.
Sep 6, 2011
Dan and I climbed this route a year or so before his transition to rap bolting sport routes. This route, in my mind, represents the vision and commitment Dan held as a climber. Not only was it a bold lead, he found this line on one of the more popular crags in the canyon. That is his gift - finding great lines. I am glad to see others here defending this route in its original form. It would be a bummer to see bolts added to this route. Right after Dan and I climbed this route, a Spanish guy who was traveling through the area nailed the 2nd ascent and confirmed the rating.
Apr 8, 2011
This is a great route- techy, pumpy, and a bit spicy. The PG-13 refers to the start, which is probably 10+. There is an obvious, bomber, small cam to protect the move up to the rail, then a #1 Peanut to protect the move to the jug. The rest of the gear is bomber but pumpy to place for sure. I called this 11c only, because IMHO it is much easier than Englishman's...might also be easier than CCC for many. In any case, awesome route that the competent 5.11 leader should not shy away from.
Sep 20, 2010
My buddy, Steve Annecone, figured out how to get two good pieces (a yellow/green offset Alien and an RP) before the first bolt. The gear makes for a pretty damn safe lead and should only be considered S, at the worst.
May 5, 2008
This route definitely does not need any bolts added. It is perfect as it is! It is an exciting lead but has probably been led hundreds of times if not much more. Not every route has to be dumbed down with a bunch of bolts. Leave some routes for those who like a little adventure and challenge.
Oct 29, 2007
Please don't add bolts to this route. Thank you.
Oct 29, 2007
I couldn't find any gear worth putting in before the first bolt. It's not much of an issue as the climbing up to that point is fairly easy. This is an excellent and pumpy lead, well worth doing. I don't know if I would say it's as hard as 11d though.
Feb 25, 2002
I thought it was a good route. I don't remember any rp's to protect the start, though. After clipping the first bolt the gear remains good. Crux is pullin' on a crimper... way more straightforward, and basically easier, than the start of Country Club, the start of Athlete's Feat, and the beginning, slabby moves of Never a Dull Moment, all of which are rated one or two letter grades easier. Duncan Burke
Nov 10, 2001
- Bailey's Overhang
The last comment says you can place #2s, but I had two and did not use either. Small cams, a #3, and a #4 are what I used, and there are also good nuts. I did this climb in 1996, and it was fun to do it again in 2015. Makes me feel old....
Apr 6, 2015
I didn't find this route worthy of more than 1 star. As some have mentioned, I found the 'crux' to be quite easy, almost no-hands. I post the following for safety reasons. 1. The first 40' is very poorly protected until you get to the overhanging block in the corner. You can put some larger cams in, but the cracks are all flared. They look pretty good at ground-height, but it's misleading. I would give this a PG rating. 2. Bring extra #2-#4 cams. Leave the 0.75 and smaller on the ground. There's a few good nut placements once you're in the corner but not where you want them.
Sep 12, 2013
I thought this was a 4 star or 3 star route depending on the maximum amount of stars for a route. Nice start with some clean and fun crack climbing up to a big roof. The would guess the overhang can either be 5.8 grunting or some very tame 5.6/7 stemming. Great climb.
Nov 26, 2012
Where is it in relation to the new anchor? I remember what it looked like, with the little, head-sized rock supporting it. I even rapped off it, so you can imagine I looked at it pretty hard (waiting for it to fall and kill me).... Didn't notice it today, so I assumed it got trundled. But if you say it is there, I believe you. Thanks for the new anchor.
Sep 17, 2011
I am sure the boulder is still there. I only removed the cable so no one would use it. You probably do not recognize it, because a sane person would not even consider it as a valid rappel anchor!
Sep 17, 2011
Is the boulder that the cable was on gone? I couldn't recognize it. Lots of big loose blocks up there, but they didn't look like the one the cable was around.... This used to be rated 5.6.
Sep 16, 2011
The medium hex can be done, and you can also lug a #4-5, but anyone with a sense of adventure should just have faith in the 5.8 holds because they are there.
Aug 15, 2011
Greg- I didn't see the earlier note. This will add to the popularity of this climb. As an additional comment here; this isn't really the "original" Bailey's overhang route. The original route is about 15 feet to the right, if my failing memory hasn't failed me....
May 22, 2011
Thanks for the anchors. You will find them after climbing above the overhang and to the left on a nice ledge. This is a nice climb to freshen up on trad climbing for the summer.
Mar 27, 2011
Rodger, If you look a few comments up, you will see I put in an anchor in Aug. 2009. Perhaps an admin should update the route description to reflect this. There is now a good (bolted) 2nd pitch called Beetle Bailey.
Mar 14, 2011
I agree that it's a "one pitch wonder!" A rap station after the first lead would get a workout and make the climb more popular. Bolts and chains, anyone?
Mar 12, 2011
Greg, Thanks for replacing the mess of an anchor that was there. Now, instead of grovelling to the top and doing the downclimb (because I refused to rap off of the old anchor), I can get back to the base quicker and get rolling on the next route. I was always amazed that the old anchor didn't just fall of the cliff under its own weight.
Aug 21, 2009
The cable/rap anchor has been removed. Use the Fixe anchors. If you want to do a 2nd pitch, see Beetle Bailey.
Aug 20, 2009
Thanks for taking care of this, Greg!
Aug 10, 2009
My eyes nearly popped out of my head when I saw the cable/rap anchor. I placed 2 Fixe ring anchors in a better location. I was not able to disassemble the cable as one of the nuts was stuck. I will remove it later this week.
Aug 10, 2009
Climbed 5/31/09 with S. Costello...First pitch is excellent, probably the best moderate at Castle. The roof does need a big cam, but there are good placements below that would hold a fall. I did it left side in, with a left-foot backstep to a solid foothold, then pulled over on jugs. This is a fun and not terribly difficult move. There IS quality climbing above the first pitch. We finished on a 40-50 foot left-facing 5.7 corner that looks kinda dirty and grassy but is actually fairly fun. The descent is made much easier if you can locate the big Douglas-fir with the rap chain.
Jun 1, 2009
Our 4th climb of the day. Planned on it being my first 5.8 trad lead...then I got my foot stuck right in the beginning...getting super tired trying to get it out without decking head first. Anyway...ended up following, and thought it was a super fun climb. Nothing super difficult, but felt like a true 5.8...wasn't a walk in the park by any means for a newer climber.
Jun 1, 2009
I just climbed this on 6/16/08. A very well protected lead. I left a new sling at the rusty piton halfway up. Didn't trust old runners. Didn't really trust the rusty piton either. But I used it anyways.
Jun 21, 2008
We didn't like the looks of the cable/rap anchor, so we continued up to the top of the crag. By heading up and left from the cable we got to a decent chimney with clean and solid rock in the back of it. Easy climbing on that second pitch, but there aren't a lot of chimney pitches in Boulder Canyon, so it was a nice surprise. (Perhaps this is the upper pitch of the West Face?)
Jun 15, 2008
I found this route fun and well protected. The overhang moves at the top are easy once you see it. I echo what is said above that the climbing after the first pitch is less than great and your options to rap are sketchy at best. Worth the hassel though, very fun movement.
Sep 20, 2007
My partner and I climbed this route a couple of weeks ago. What a nice climb until you get to the top of the first pitch. We took a good look at the cable slung boulder and decided against using it to rap. We didn't want to trust our lives to what appears to be a completely detached boulder supported by a helmet sized chockstone. We climbed to the top and downclimbed as for Cussin' Crack, Jackson's Wall, etc. Once we found the correct trail, it wasn't too bad. Any chance of relocating the cable?
Sep 15, 2006
This is an excellent and sustained pitch. For me, the crux is at the start: insecure flared cracks and slippery feet. Above, sustained crack climbing leads to the roof. There is a bomber yellow Alien placement in a crack on the right, just before you make the final move over the roof. Backstep with the left foot to the highest foothold, then stem the right foot on the lip of the roof, and it's over. Done this way, the roof feels like 5.7. I used doubles on #1 and #2 Camalots, and didn't place anything bigger than a #3 Camalot. A #4 Camalot will give you bomber pro below the roof, but I was happy with the yellow Alien a few moves higher.
Jul 9, 2005
Watch out for the cable sling at the top of Bailey's Overhang. The boulder is completely detached! If someone large were to rap off that thing, it could pull. It is way scary!
Dec 2, 2004
I agree with Larry on this one. The boulder at the top with the steel cable around it looks very very unsafe!!! The boulder is completely detached and looks like it could go if you had someone big enough rappeling on it. I'm not a big bolt person but for safety sake I think it would be a great idea if someone put in some bolts at the top of this route and removed the steel cable. I'm certain it would look better than the cable and be much more safe!
Nov 22, 2004
Great Route, I am a beginner 5.8 climber and found the moves very easy. At the crux overhang, on the left is a solid ledge to stand on. Once you have your feet on the ledge its easy to pull over the roof, the hands are big jugs above the roof (on the right side of the crack). At the overhang I stuck in a #5 Friend that subsiquently walked to an open position as I turned the roof. Perhaps a really big hex would have been better? After that the climbing is very easy. The rap anchor is a very scary looking boulder with a steel cable around it. It looks completely detached? I would use something else to rap next time. A very awesome route! -Jason Shatek
Oct 5, 2004
A 60m rope just makes it to the ground when rappelling from the steel cable that Paul mentions.
Jul 20, 2004
At the top of Bailey's Overhang (after the crux) you can bail over to the north and you find a steel cable wrapped around the top of a huge boulder. One can rap from this down to the top of curving crack or maybe even to the ground with a long rope. It looks like the only thing holding this boulder up there is a human head sized chockstone at the bottom of it. It made me think twice about being attached to that boulder...maybe I am just paranoid...it is probably ok, but at some point it may rip loose...that would be very bad.
Sep 2, 2003
You can protect this climb pretty well without wide gear, but with a 4.5 camalot, it looked like I could have had gear overhead almost anywhere. I [did] the route "backwards" apparently, with my back to the left and feet to the right and it still felt like 5.8, so I think either way is do-able.The route seemed like a 2-star route, and maybe 3-star if you keep going and 'finish' on P2 of Coffin Crack (5.10 handcrack-to-fistcrack through a roof)
May 19, 2003
At the crux, stay close in the crack, and face the opposite block. I used a small seam hold high and placed right foot on solid, high placement, and stepped up on it. Chalk on the foot placement is a dead giveaway. But you must step up high. A bit awkward and good exposed at this crux. I was too far right when I did this last year, no foot placement there. Hug the crack and look to place that right foot about knee height. This is a pretty cool little corner to turn.
Aug 9, 2002
I agree that the "crux" isn't particularly strenuous- in fact I strained more on the first few moves off the ground. Just squeeze it a little and recall the womb. :) It also looked to me like a good call to skip the upper pitches, so we did- there is now a beefy fixed cable with a rap link just above and left of the end of the first pitch on the left side of a large ledge- can easily reach the ground from there with a 60m, and of course the anchor above curving crack. Enjoy.
Jun 2, 2002
I love this route also. The overhang is NOT strenuous. It's almost no hands if you do it as a chimney. Back to the right, feet on the left on good holds. Move up and out. Turn around at the top. A couple big cams are useful but not necessary as another poster mentioned. Last time I did it (Spring 2001) there were slings up and left from the top of the first pitch. These did not look permanent. Ivan Rezucha
Sep 5, 2001
Ditto for sure on this one. The key to the crux is getting that right foot in a small oblong pocket. I was gripped a bit until I found that baby. A sweet 5.8 do the rappel to chains above Curving Crack. 4 slings and ring are permanent now.
Aug 13, 2001
- Beetle Bailey
I am going to agree with s.kimball on the rating: 10+. I think it is my favorite 5.10 sport route in the canyon.
Jun 21, 2017
There are 2 sets of anchors that you can rap to from the top of this route - the anchors to the climbers right are slightly lower and we hit the ends of our 70 m rope. If using a 60m, I would aim for the other set.
Jul 28, 2012
A #2 Helium friend didn't fit into the suggested gear placement, but a green C4 works great. No need for any other gear except quickdraws of course.... We had tons of rope left rapping with our 70m. Seems like a 60m will reach (4th class down-climb if not).
Sep 16, 2011
Thanks, gentlemen, for adding modern rap anchors above Baileys. I broke the thin, undercling flake out right from the crux. I would have to call it harder 5.10 now.
Jul 8, 2011
Some fun climbing on a nice slab of rock. Strangely bolted -- typical Boulder Canyon always-on-toprope style for the middle section, with a random runout or two at the start and finish. My 60m rope didn't get me all the way back to the anchor on Bailey's overhang. I came up about 5' short. I ended up on a ledge that I was comfortable down-soloing the very easy, and not exposed moves to the anchor, but be careful. Strangely, all 60s are not the same length. Don't assume yours will reach.
Jun 25, 2011
Nice route. It adds some spice to Bailey's Overhang for the upper section. You can either rap from the anchors (2 raps to ground with one 60-m rope) or climb to the top of the formation and scramble down. This second option makes for a nice summit. Some may think Beetle Bailey is over-bolted, but the clips are well placed and the climbing is clean. I give it a 5.10b/c.
Aug 30, 2009
- Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl)
Just looked in Rossiter's 1999 guidebook. I think we climbed the route as he describes it. D'Antonio's vague description may not disagree with Rossiter's. I interpret Bubb's and Lefkoff's path as going up the obvious crack above the right-hand tree, which is to the right of the way we went -- at least (maybe) until the hand/fist crack through the overhang/bulge near the top.
Jul 10, 2013
Today, I led the 5.7 first pitch just right of the wide crack, then belayed at the right-hand tree. Then I led leftish up the middle of a short, blank face; made an unprotected step left; moved up a short, shallow crack; then hand-traversed to the right along the upper horizontal (heavily lichened and exciting, 5.9+). Then I climbed straight up a hand/fist crack through a overhang/bulge (5.9+) and up the right side of the pinnacle's summit block. If you instead do the handcrack, flare, gully, etc., straight up from the right-hand tree to the bulge crack, you will miss most of the best action. Ryan Watts led the third pitch up to the scramble-off.
Jul 10, 2013
Strappo and I climbed this handcrack/flare last fall. It's strenuous right at the top and it would help to have taped. Protection adequate.
May 8, 2004
- Big Splash, The
Dirty, discontinuous, and a few nice sections. But not enough to make a nice route of it.
Aug 11, 2012
Routes right of The Big Splash= from a high ledge a seam up to a hand crack is "Flaming Dog Poo" 5.10ish? (hard start) further right is a nice overhang to dihedral that I cleaned and tried a couple times, then abandoned because somebody else put twelve bolts on the thing.
Oct 6, 2008
Nice effort, you guys. On May 12, Strappo flawlessly led pitch one and styled through the crux high step on pitch two, which I dogged on lead. 10b for the first pitch, 10a for the second? Strappo and I both commented that this west-facing wall holds tremendous opportunity for new routes, once it begins to clean up with traffic.
May 13, 2007
- Black Crack, The
There is a now mixed 5.11 extension called "The Black Crack Matters." Fun movement with a slabby crux just above the first bolt. Two bolts and some small gear (0.3 - 0.5). Apparently, a black tricam, which I didn't have, protects the getting to the first bolt well.
Jun 15, 2017
Awkward climbing after the horizontal crack. It turns into what feels like sport climbing, and although none of the moves are difficult, it can be a little tricky on the first go. Just like any route, once you figure out the beta it's a lot easier.
Apr 6, 2017
All the moves on this route are 5.9 at the hardest. However I'll admit that on an onsight attempt, it feels much more like solid 5.10, simply because the beta is somewhat difficult to figure out and the steepness of the route starts the pump clock and doesn't let up until the chains. So by the time you figure out the beta, you're way pumped and the jugs up top (and they ARE jugs) feel more like sloping crimpers.
Jul 7, 2014
Sweet route in its current state. Somewhat slick like all of lower Castle Rock so make sure it's cool. Very solid RPs fit in below the pin, and you can place them from the shoulder scum or after clipping the pin if you're less of a fan of compression hardware. Just wish this route was longer at the 10a grade.
Sep 1, 2013
Pretty old school 5.9+. Good gear.
Jul 3, 2012
All I used was two #2s, 1 #3, long runner, and the anchor. Got owned on Gill Crack afterwards!
Mar 30, 2012
Thanks to the local climber(s) who placed wood chips down and cleaned up the area. We were there this evening, and it was quite clean. This is a fun route. It helps to anticipate "old school" ratings when climbing at Castle Rock - not like many of the other BoCan ratings.
May 27, 2011
I replaced the broken pin today. The old one had seen plenty of falls, and I wanted to get it out before the other eye cracked. There is a new angle in the same place. It's bomber, so fall away! When I took the pin out, I did evaluate whether it could just become a placement for clean gear. Without getting into the details, it is not a viable spot for anything but a pin, so I put a pin back in. A local climber (not me) has put a ton of work into cleaning up this area. He cleaned out all the broken glass he could get, and spread wood chips. This is a vast improvement, and makes a nice spot to hang out.
Jun 2, 2010
A good climb, my first 5.9 gear lead. The pin is partly broken, not sure how many more falls its gonna hold. I was able to get a gray alien in to protect the crux. Watch out for the sharp edge that you pull over. Once you finish the climb better to pull the rope through your gear to avoid unnecessary wear on your rope. Cleaning will be harder but, I managed to do it so you can too.
Apr 29, 2009
Definitely a 5.9+ move in there getting from the fist crack to the left-leaning crack and slab! Different ways to do it - without giving it away straight in jamming not necessarily the best option. Also, fixed nut between this and the pin when I did it (seems really solid), but the eye of the pin is cracked. Can protect above it with a number 1 Camalot (or even higher with a 0.75 which I had to do as I looked at the #1 on the ground). Would recommend due to the fact that if the pin cracks through and the fixed nut pulls when your rocking right on the final moves you could conceivably ground out.
Nov 11, 2008
Black Crack's 5.9 rating might be a relic from the past when it was shorter, instead of grade inflation. Anchor locations have changed since the seventies. Guidebook authors don't seem to have noticed. Black Crack used to end at a bolt, just before the crux head-scum. An empty hole is still visible. Steeper and harder than the last pitch of Outer Space on the Bastille.
Sep 12, 2008
Pretty stiff for a 5.9. I found the Yellow Spur and the first pitch of Tagger to be much easier than this. Though I agree that none of the moves are harder than 5.9, it threw me off because it was overhanging, and I wore myself out trying to get on to the face from the top of Gill Crack. The pin is good. I took a whipper on it while trying to get over the little corner at the top there.
May 20, 2006
This was a cool climb and my first 5.9 lead. The gear was all good although I did crap my pants a little. A #3 Camalot fits perfectly in the vertical crack a few feet above the end of Gill Crack.
May 12, 2004
This route only has one star, but I think it deserves a higher rating. The crux for me was pulling out of the first crack and onto the face, before pulling over to the chains. Just look out left on the slab/face, because there are some feet, and rock on over to a good stance under the pin. I'd suggest slinging the pin too, as the eyehole definitely appears cracked. Every bit as fun as Curving Crack. JGH
Jul 18, 2002
By the time I pulled my right wrist out of the green pigeon shit, both deeply embedded in Black Crack's horizontal fist crack, I was starting to get a little shakey. But when I had to stem a few moves off of the 5.12 Gill Crack then make a head scum, I knew this was a pretty hard 5.9. S.Kimball.
Jun 23, 2002
- Boot Lead
Holy smokes, this thing is thin.
Sep 24, 2017
Perhaps I am being picky, but if my memory serves me correctly, Skip led this route in 1982 not 1983. I guess I will have to dig up my old "Climbing" magazines in my storage & see if this info exists. As for the climb, it feels like .12a on a top rope. I have not led it.
Apr 17, 2015
(I'm the AC above...forgot to entire my name.) Glad to hear the agreement re: Close To The Edge...it certainly felt like hard 12 to me...heck, it may as well have been 5.14. :-) If I remember correctly, the best hold on the route sits near the 2nd bolt, and the 3rd definitely seems like it would be the harder clip of the two...of course, I didn't lead it so... Also, the only fixed gear in Boot Lead now (again, if memory serves) is a fairly abused, small hex, well above the first (and harder) crux. Still, I'm sure its a welcome clip once there, for those bold enough to lead this route.
Jul 25, 2002
Close To The Edge, the bolted line immediately to the left of this route, is rated a mere letter grade harder (12 a/b), but...in my humble opinion...is a whole 'nuther ball o' wax. I was able to toprope, sans falls (baaaarely), Boot Lead, but was completely shut down on Close To The Edge. Moving off the good feet into the blank section seemed essentially free from the burdens of any hand holds whatsoever...Very, very balancy stuff, both of these climbs, but at least Boot Lead has a hold or two here and there! I enjoyed TRing Boot Lead very much - the lead would be thrilling enough to watch. I can't imagine the lead myself, with the undercling clogged with an alien. Wear your stickiest rubber, and don't do it on a hot day... (I wonder if Skip did it barefoot ?!? ;-)
Jul 23, 2002
First freed on lead by Skip Guerin and Chip Ruckgaber. There actually is a TCU placement to "protect" the crux, but it takes up a good undercling hold and makes the move a bit harder. Also, the story I've heard is when first led a hammer was used to fix gear (a pin and a head) that has since been removed. It would be easy enough to ask Chip if this is true. A better top rope.
Apr 5, 2002
- By Gully
I am by no means an experienced OW climber but didn't think this was too bad. My slim 5'6" 130 lb frame probably helped. Protected the initial entry moves with a #1 above the bolt and went right side in. Once you're in it, use pretty straitforward squeeze chimney technique with a handful of good holds to ease the difficulty. The big key for me was to turn around so my left side is in and rerack on my right side at the second little bulge. Got creative with switching gear from left side to right side. Rack (c4s): 0.5, 1, 2x 2, 4, 5, 6, 2 slings for the top, 1 quickdraw - felt very safe. Tie your knot long for maximum squeezing!
Oct 29, 2017
This crack was a gruntfest, I severely underestimated it. If you're a masochistic 5.9/5.10 offwidth climber, you'll love this thing. Establishing yourself into the chimney is the crux of this pitch, but made easier by facing right side in with a slammer hand jam, eventually turning left side in for most of the remainder of the climb (best to take off your helmet or it will get stuck, and obviously hang your gear OUT OF THE WAY OF YOUR ASS). Not going to lie, this route spanked me. Struggled at the crux, groveled up the chimney, made a mistake not to wear knee pads, and walked away with my tail between my legs. I'll be back for a redpoint after my knees, elbows, and ego are healed. I placed a #.3 above the bolt, a #4 low, two #5s, #6, #4.5, #4, and a #2. The gear is all straightforward, but make sure you have good offwidth technique - I thought I did, but this route was a serious reality check.
Oct 14, 2017
Did this as a long-anticipated and really fun onsight yesterday. This is one of the best and steepest offwidths/squeeze chimneys I have done in the Boulder area. A few things to note to make your climb more enjoyable: getting into the crack wasn't bad with 6' height and +1 ape, but my slightly shorter friends found the moves into the initial jams quite challenging. Right side in felt like the way to go for the 1st two bulges, but I could see going left side in if you wanted to skip all of the good edges inside the crack. I highly recommend not wearing a shoulder sling due to the amount of full-immersion tunneling involved. The crux for me was moving the 5 and 6 the %@$# out of the way so I could make upward progress. I would recommend singles from fingers to 5 or 6 for this route, depending on how comfortable you are running it out on 5.8 #6 offwidth. Rack everything on the left hip for the first 2/3 of the route, then either continue right side in or re-rack on the right hip to do the last bulge left side in.
Jul 23, 2015
Overheard on this route today (and no, it wasn't me): Leader (just through the crux, hangover kicking in): "This was a REALLY bad idea." Belayer/girlfriend: "If you puke on me, I'm dumping you!" ...ten feet higher, he puked...luckily missing his belayer. Classic!
Oct 26, 2013
Slim, the button head was replaced with a modern bolt when they did the Tuesday night OW, as I think was stated above. Thanks goodness for that, I'd be pretty F'ed right now if it wasn't I would think.
Apr 12, 2010
Jason, is the bolt still a really, old, crappy one? Maybe a button head or something? If so, yikes!
Apr 12, 2010
This thing is brutal! Tried to lead it yesterday and was thouroughly humbled. I lobbed out onto the bolt at first (which I used a 48" sling on, oops!), pinching my junk between my harness and my leg. I was at the point where you get the first good jamb, but I couldn't get it set well enough to get pro in, pretty good distance. I was in great pain at that point so I came down. I went back up and got to the same point, threw in a crap #1 sloppily and hung, then placed a green/yellow hybrid and replaced the #1 with a truck #2. I then proceeded to lob out about 3 more times as I worked above the cam. I came down again as I was in great pain, my friend todd went up next. He lobbed out at least 3 times trying to get up past the roof only to admit defeat (he's been onsighting 11+ sport lately and working 12s on TR, generaly climbing 10-11 trad). We had another member to our team, so he went up to give it a try, suffering the same fate, lobbing out probly 3 or 4 times. I gave it another go lobbing out 2 more times, finally giving up and cleaning the gear. For those of you like us who have to bail, I recommend setting a knot chock flicker knot in the juggy flake below the bolt, then you can un-clip the bolt and lower to the ground off the knot. I cliped some cord and extra runners into the loop above the knot to assist in retrieving it.
Apr 11, 2010
First Ascent: Royal Robbins and PAT AMENT, 1964. I remember a time when this really felt 5.9+. We were all better at squeeze chimneys before cams because the arm bar was often the best pro on the rack.
Sep 10, 2009
Traversing left to the anchor on Coffin Crack avoids a final bulge that is worth climbing. It is a few more OW moves over this bulge (a #5 C4 protected it well), and was a good finish to the route. A TR anchor can be built in the crack with gear in the 1"-3" range. It does add a bit of hassle when you are ready to clean the anchor, but the Coffin Crack anchor is only about 6' away. You can swing over to the CC anchor, rethread your rope through that, and then "lead" back out to get the gear anchor from By Gully. As others have said, this route took me a few tries to lead, but taught me a lot about OW along the way. Highly recommended. Regarding Left or Right side in--I've tried both and found Left side in to be a little easier, but the difference is minor. A bolt has been added to the sling anchor at the top of Coffin Crack, so it's a much better rap station now.
Aug 26, 2009
I once took a huge fall onto that quarter inch bolt. I somehow just got spat out of the thing!
Oct 17, 2008
Right side in, I found plenty of good holds on the sidewall to help, and some solid handjams. There's still plenty of chicken winging. Josh L. replaced the bolt last night during our Tuesday night offwidth assault meeting.
Oct 15, 2008
A single set from #1 to #6 C4, with possibly two #4s, will protect this route nicely. Took me several attempts to get a redpoint on this one, but I learned a lot about offwidth climbing in the process. Yeah, it's a bit harder than a 5.10 OW, that's why it's rated 5.9+!
Jul 29, 2007
I thought this thing was way harder than Coffin Crack. We actually warmed up on the other one, and although I probably looked as equally pathetic on both routes, this one gave me relatively less grief. The moves from the face into the OW were the business to me. Next step, red point!
Oct 8, 2006
Those "5.9+" moves to get into the darn thing sure felt hard to me. I thought it was harder than Coffin Crack, to the left, which gets 10b. I did do this climb left-side in. Above comment suggests that's wrong, but it seemed best to me- maybe it wasn't right? Also, I placed my #4 Camalot low (left of the bolt) and ended up runout above.
Jun 5, 2006
The first time I tried this was left side in and I got 'thrashed'. The second time up a fist jam after the bolt allowed me to stuff my right shoulder in and after a bit of sissy kicking the rest of the route was dispatched with a minimal donation of epidermal tissue. Two stars for sure.
Jul 30, 2005
I wonder why it's so rarely climbed? Fun route, I plan to redpoint it once I have healed.
Jul 6, 2004
Way impressive that Joe (in the photo) is leading this thing without knee pads! Full body armor recommended. Good warm up for Coffin Crack!
Apr 9, 2004
Good technique goes a long way on this one, so lack of technique will earn you a thrashing. One reality about seconding this is that if you slide out of the slot you can't get back in and have to be lowered to the ground. This climb belongs in Yosemite, or is at least good training for nasty Yosemite wide cracks.
Apr 9, 2004
A very worthwhile but, unfortunately, overlooked route. Anyone who thinks they are solid on 5.9 should go and give this route a try.
Apr 8, 2004
- Cadaver Crack
Replaced the tat today with Randy F. It was really deteriorated! A 60 meter rope does reach. A good, little, exposed crack.
Aug 8, 2015
In May 1968, I was in a Colorado Mtn Club Intermediate Mountaineering class. Mike Beringer led this on aid, using pitons. George Ripley and I followed. We encountered an owl standing/sitting on the spacious ledge atop the crack; then we did another pitch to the summit. I remember my first experience of the fragrance of granite. In '82, I followed Mike Bearzi up it (no aid, no owl).
Jan 3, 2015
- Cage Free
youtube.com/watch?v=07LTiav…
Jul 20, 2012
youtube.com/watch?v=dSI6xvv… Cage Free and Free Range.
Oct 7, 2011
Johnny Goicoechea has the first ascent, Brian Capps does not.
May 21, 2010
This is a very cool line. I have not stuck the toss yet but man I just love this sort of all or nothing dynamic movement!!! It's a must try or DO!!!!
Aug 22, 2009
- Campaigner, The
You tha man, C! Will be gettin' on this soon.
Apr 30, 2016
I removed the 2nd pin (#3 angle). It was loose and damaged. I did not replace it as it is not needed...plenty of gear (small cams). I also removed the first pin (#1 angle). It was damaged as well but not as bad as the second pin. I replaced it with a brand new one. Now it's a little safer and solid for some whippin' and such.
Jun 21, 2014
Just got back from a rainy day aid practice session and this route was perfect. Great gear, and totally dry as opposed to the A2 roof crack next door.
Sep 12, 2012
- Circadian Rhythms
Curious where people think the 5.9, let alone 5.9+, part is. The chimney? I found the chimney to be full of features and ledges for feet. It seemed like a typical Vedauwoo 5.7 for this part, and I expected the top to be harder, but instead found it to be quite tame. To clarify, I'm not trying to say anything about the Vedauwoo vs. BoCan grades, just that the Voo has quite a few granite squeeze chimneys to compare it to.
May 25, 2015
For maximum value, clip the bolt (it was a rusty spinner but replaced in recent years) and climb into the thin crack without climbing the chimney to the left. 5.9 plus, hmm, about 10 letter grades....
Oct 5, 2012
You can get good stoppers up to about a #8 outside of the chimney on the left. A very small RP comes first, but after that it's not "small." The route can also be made more interesting by forcing it left and continuing rather than going up to the anchors on Tongo. After finishing the wide part, step up and left to a roof with a crack horizontal behind it- place a .75" cam and step over the roof, then slightly left again to join the face above. Continue upwards to 2 very thin parallel cracks with some rock jammed between. Place a very large stopper, then a small one (#5 BD) then step up and pull up and left over to the ramp of Jackson's Wall. Be careful of these "trapped" stones- the top one, about the size of your head, is somewhat loose. Belay on good gear and continue as for Cussin' Crack. Cussin' can be made more interesting by climbing the hand and fist crack through the roof 1/2 way up. (5.9+?)
May 17, 2006
Adventurous little doo-hah. With much effort, I got 2 or 3 good RPs in a row in the flake exiting the chimney. A solid #7 stopper below backs up the whole mess. kind of fun moves for the first 30 feet, and then wander your way up on jugs and traverse to the Tongo second anchors. I don't think this one gets climbed much. You don't need anything bigger than a .75 Camalot for the route.
Aug 29, 2005
There is about 40' of easy (5.0) traversing without tons of pro to get over to the Tongo anchors once done with the crux, so make sure the 2nd is down with that. Also as a leader you can't see the anchors until you are right at them, or from the ground, so check the topo showing where the anchors are carefully. I thought it was a fun route, solid rock and unusual climbing!
May 1, 2003
- Citadel V1
- Citadel, The
Sharp crimps on a short but sweet boulder. Angle 1: youtu.be/f6Db3NV0vu8 Angle 2: youtu.be/bB-gjbbqSgg
Nov 10, 2017
I will be back for this with some cooler weather, felt like I had butter on my hands, ha.
Aug 1, 2016
I seriously doubt Will ever graded it at all tcam ... if you asked him back when he did it, he probably would have said "I don't know, V4?" ... bwahahaha. Don't worry, all is still right in the world.
Feb 18, 2010
Will FA'd something that was soft?
Feb 18, 2010
FA: Will Lemaire, to give full credit.
Jan 22, 2010
Fun line... soft for V8 but it's still a nice line.
Jun 12, 2009
God save the boulderer who tries to tackle Citadel in the summer. Looks lowball but climbs really well. Worth a stop.
Jan 20, 2008
Yes, it's called The Citadel - Will L., FA.
Oct 7, 2005
Three stars seems a bit much, but it's a fun boulder. Does the V5 go straight out over the bulge? If so, it seemed hard, and a back breaker (there's a lumpy boulder in the fall area, making me back off without a spotter). I couldn't get my butt off the ground on the V8. Feet are an issue at the beginning of both.
Aug 8, 2005
I believe the name is 'The Citadel'.
Jul 31, 2005
- Close To the Edge
Super sharp. Do this route!
Apr 7, 2017
Short but fun. It felt more like 12c to me and took a few burns to send. I thought the real trick of the route was getting past the 1st bolt!!! The rest seemed more straightforward to me... nice on a cool, winter day.
Jan 29, 2010
- Coffin Crack
Kicked my ass the first time. Fun climb. Prod.
Mar 31, 2012
FA: 1964!!!! Back when...the Beatles showed us greasers how to wear our hair proper.
Sep 10, 2009
Felt sane with only one #4 camalot, even for a lost sport climber.
Jun 17, 2009
I was able to do a fist jam to get into the offwidth (and I hate fist jams). Then a few less than happily secure offwidth type moves (but with a good foothold) and you get to jugs again. Short in the business, but a good testpiece.
Oct 15, 2008
Felt like doing a freestyle swim...there are some really key heel-toe cams that allowed me to reach that slopey rail for the mantle. Big ups to Chuck for leading that with 3 pieces.
Oct 8, 2006
The first pitch felt like 5.10 on big moves with odd "windmill" cross-over moves. The O.W. below is hiding a few sidepulls that facilitate crossing a right to the sloper on the left, then match and put the left hand to the jug on the right. Secure and not too hard. The second pitch of this route is really fun and cool. If you beat the first pitch, keep going up for a second battle at the handcrack through the roof (5.10). You can get to just below the P2 roof with a single 60m line. Protect with Friends from 2-3.5" 4" piece optional, where it will be easier anyway.
May 19, 2003
Face climbing through the crux seemed harder than 10b to me. If you have really huge hands, you can get a fist jam at the crux. However I have larger than average hands, and I couldn't get the jam.
Oct 1, 2002
- Comeback Crack
I left two quickdraws at the top of this route on the chains last week. If someone picks them up I would love to get them back. I forgot them because my partner fell and got hurt. Thanks, returning gear is good karma!
Nov 24, 2009
Kudos to JGH for a clean ascent of Comeback Crack and for his insightful comments that really bring the route alive. "JGH" hits the nail on the head with "Comeback Crack is a great route". Keep the posts flowing JGH, I know I'll be "comin' back" for a look soon.
Jul 14, 2003
This is a great route. The tough section down low has great finger locks and after a few moves the feet get better. Pulling the bulge is reminiscent of boulder problems you might find at the Spot. JGH
Jul 9, 2003
- Country Club Crack
Was up here on Thursday and again today, and there is a rope fixed. If this is yours, please retrieve it. NOW, some fixed line etiquette - on Thursday, part of the line was hanging (appeared to be fixed) from the top anchor, and the latter half was fixed on the lower anchor. I hiked around and threw my line off the top to run a toprope solo. The apparently "fixed" rope was held by a stopper knot which would have easily passed through the rings if someone weighted it from below. I was shocked and slipped that part of the line through, tossing it to the ground. So, the rope is still fixed at the bottom anchor, and I coiled the remainder behind the boulder at the bottom. For whoever's rope this is, please know that leaving a rope in such a precarious state is a big and dangerous disservice. While it's questionable to leave a rope hanging by the road in BoCan at all, leaving a rope fixed to the top of such a popular climb with nothing but a stopper knot is just unfair to the climbing community. Ropes that appear fixed should be fixed, period. Maybe it was late, maybe it was dark and you forgot to untie the stopper not. I don't know, but then please get back up there and clean up after yourself. I was there again today, Sunday, and the rope is still there, still fixed on the lower anchor, waiting for a retrieval. The climb is still as beautiful as ever!
Oct 8, 2017
Buster Jesik: "It seems that the bottom bolt has been chopped?" Nope. Still there. There is a mess of old holes, presumably from bolt wars years ago. Maybe that's what you saw?
May 31, 2017
It seems that the bottom bolt has been chopped?
May 24, 2017
I didn't climb this route before the blocks fell out of the roof, but on my first climb of this, I felt that the roof on pitch two was almost as hard as the crux on pitch one (granted, in a very different style). I'd suggest 11b for the roof moves on pitch 2 now. If you're not comfortable pulling those moves with a #0.3 Camalot below your feet (assuming you extend it from its placement at the back of the roof), you would probably need to bring a #5 Camalot to protect the roof pod now.
Sep 22, 2016
Indeed, the chockstone under the roof is no more. This deserves a mention on such a historical and classic line. While not a huge deal, my guess is that people will find pulling the roof a touch harder now.
Sep 17, 2016
The blocks under the roof are gone now Pulling the funny move above the roof. . Apparently they were suddenly quite loose, and someone cleaned them out a few weeks ago. The blocks provided a few jugs that made getting around the roof pretty straightforward. I wouldn't say it's harder now, but it is a little less straightforward. For what it's worth, I'm 6'5" and could see how it might be harder for short people now. The resulting pod under the roof is a little tricky to protect. There is a pinch that would take a #0.75 Camalot (or probably better, a black Metolius), but if it walks at all, it will be useless quickly. I found a good yellow Alien on the right side of the dihedral, under the roof, in the crack that heads right to become Nobody's Home.
Jul 16, 2016
Here's to hoping...was anyone able to wiggle a #1 BD cam halfway up the second pitch of Country Club? We tried as best we could but got weathered and left it there. Date was May 27th (last week) in the late afternoon. Looks like someone grabbed it when we went back to work it out. Would LOVE it if someone did. 6 pack for reward?! :)
Jun 1, 2015
Found a pair of fancy car keys at the base of Country Club today. Give a shout if they are yours.
Nov 2, 2014
Best crack I've been on in the radbro. I, for one, liked the opening move.... But the jams are where it's at. So comfy. Great link and lowers to the ground with an 80.
Sep 11, 2014
My 60m makes it down to the first AF anchor with none to spare. Tie knots.
Oct 6, 2011
Dropped one of my Evolv Talons at the base and left it last night, I went back to get it but it was gone. If you found it, I'd really like it back. It was brand new! noah.gostout@gmail.com
Aug 9, 2011
Good climb to practice aid on days like today. There were only a few teams of people waiting to free CCC in the foot of snow while I struggled up it. Plus, your belayer can stay toasty in the car.
Feb 8, 2010
I can't wait to do this line...Luke H. Let's hook this line up!!!!
Sep 3, 2009
Nice climb, but it looks like a junkyard with ~20 bolt studs and ~12 pins.
Jul 30, 2008
A 60m will make it in one pitch as well. Just leaves you a bit short on the raps. A 70 would be ideal cause then you can rap to the first pitch anchors of A.F. pump fest in one long one for sure. Edit*** We climbed this again yesterday with one 70m. Rappelling from the top of P.2 the knots in our rope were only about 8 ft down and to the right of the anchors top of P1 for athletes feet. I advise a 70 or 2-60s to avoid any big swings. FYI- There is now a fixed red TCU top of the 2nd pitch crux. It walked to far back and over cammed too much to get out. It's in a great spot though just before the thank god jug. Clip it and keep moving. :) :)
May 6, 2008
A 70m rope makes it in one pitch with about 25ft of rope left. Doing it in one pitch I used my whole rack, which was triples of everything Camalot 0.5 - 3 and a few smaller cams. Amazing pitch!
May 5, 2008
I know a lot of people would frown on this but, this climb is a great place to practice aid climbing (clean of course), along with the aid roof a little farther west on Castle Rock. If you're rusty and headed for a big wall or trying to learn, taking laps on this is great fun. Side note: Try to climb this when it is not conducive to free climbing, i.e. cold, night, early am, winter or the like. Be mindful, if aid climbing, that this is a very popular and quality free line and chocking it up for hours aiding would be less than polite.
Sep 20, 2007
My ONLY complaint with this route is that the first (and only) bolt is in such an awkward position--ok, maybe not so awkward if you're 5'7" or more, but let me tell you, when you're 5'4", it's a SCARY first bolt... Otherwise, ditto on all raves above.
Sep 17, 2007
Can be done in one pitch and what a great pitch, but it leaves the second in a scary situation for the opening face moves due to rope stretch. And nobody should miss out on that awesome face climbing.
Jun 27, 2007
A 60m rope will not reach the anchor on P1 of Athlete's Feat! I was about 5 feet short, dangling in the air. I could not find a placement for the #4 even though I brought it. I had a #3 above the roof, but one or two #2s would have been enough.
Sep 6, 2006
Primo booty.
Oct 21, 2004
Got on CCC the other day (Oct 17) and found two cams (#1 & #2) in the crack, climbers left of the second pitch just above the picth one belay. I think someone was using them as directionals for the second but I am not sure. Contact me if you are the owner at arod825@hotmail.com.
Oct 21, 2004
I think the first bolt holds the crux. The next move felt much easier for me. That added bolt was ridiculous! The middle part of this climb is some of the best moderate, crack climbing in the canyon!
May 27, 2003
Someone added a new bolt between the second bolt and the crack. This bolt was not needed for a safe free or aid ascent. We promptly removed the bolt and the hanger. It is a self drilling bolt and the sleeve is still in the rock. If any one knows how to remove the sleeve WITHOUT damaging the rock further, email me or someone to do so. Epoxy and a little rock dust should minimize what is already a swiss cheese rock.
May 27, 2003
I found the only real rest on the second pitch came after the roof, where I was able to slide my whole right leg into the wide crack, flexed and torqued until solid and I was able to hang quite comfortably sans meathooks (what my arms felt like after the roof). I wouldn't call it a "knee lock", more of an off width jam. I got it all back but it didn't really matter a hoot, the last 15' still kicked my ass.
Sep 29, 2002
It too finally got on this climb this weekend. All I can say is "tough climb" and that I will be sore for days. I agree with that above comments that you can do without the #4, no reason to lug that thing up there. I'm hoping to figure out some sort of rest in the section of wide crack just past the roof (knee lock???), otherwise I have know idea how I could do it continuously, way to pumped for the thin fingers, difficult feet section (the real crux of the route to me).
Sep 29, 2002
After 3 or 4 trips up to Castle Rock in the last year, I was finally able to get on this route... no aid climbers this morning! The face climbing at the start is desperate, though possibly slightly easier than the Athlete's Feet mantle... I'm not sure how shorter people are able to do the move past the 2nd bolt. The crack pitch is pumpy, though look for a tricky no-hands rest on the upper part. From the anchors at the top you can TR the excellent Englishman's Home (11c- very thin looking gear) which takes the Athlete's Feet start straight up through a series of lieback corners to the flake system left of CCC, joining that route at the roof.
Aug 20, 2002
I found that the best way to protect the second is to clip a 0.75 cam up and left of the belay or a red/yellow Alien just left of the belay to minimize the pendulum (the traversing face moves at the end are the scariest moves on the whole climb). You don't need anything larger than a #3 cam although there are places to put big pieces. Not many nut placements, but there are a few that are completely bomber. There are also a few hex placements that are definitely more bomber than the cams that would go in their place. When I do it as one pitch: set of stoppers, few hexes, 2 x red Aliens, 2 x yellow Aliens, 2 x (#0.75, 1, 2, 3) Camalots, plenty of draws for the pins/nuts/hexes, and a double length to equalize the bolts with a runner to reduce drag. This is a good training route as most of the falls are safe (except the start - safe at A0) and (if you are proficient at placing good pro) all the gear is bomber.
Aug 19, 2002
What a fun/scary lead. Scary - because I lack ability, strength, etc. Fun - because the route takes pro so well. The original comment on the route says to take a #4 Camalot. Somone else said you only need a #2 and smaller. I found a #3 Camalot protected the roof, and then right after you move left from the roof, and #2 Camalot helped calm my mind. As the crack gets thin, the green, yellow, and red Alien were perfect. Better leaders probably wouldn't see the need to place all three pieces throughout this thin section. Once you get to the top of the crack, the route moves right. Before moving up and right, I placed a #1 Camalot as a passive piece to protect the second from a pendulum after he cleaned the Aliens at the fingers crux. Hopefully, this will help others in deciding what pro to take.
Aug 19, 2002
I found it more enjoyable to climb as one pitch, however, it's easier for the second to impale their backside on a fall from the opening moves due to the rope stretch. The thin section at the top is much easier without tape.
Jul 10, 2002
Bill Wright was kind enough to drag me up this route this morning. What an absolute classic. Really enjoyable, both from a climbing perspective and from a historical perspective. It is not everyday that you can climb a route mentioned in both Pat Ament and Royal Robbins' biography. The 5.11 finger/off hand crack (crux second pitch) is a humbling experience... It is unbelievable Derek Hersey soloed this... I died three times before I reached the saving jug... What a great morning... WT
Jul 1, 2002
I love this route. I've done it nine times and still no redpoint of the upper pitch. Only once have I had another party on the route at the same time. If you want this route to yourself get on it early on a weekday morning. Of the nine times I've done this route, six of them were before work. This is the time to climb it anyway since you want the first pitch cool and in the shade. Others should definitely share the rock, but I think topropers and (clean) aid climbers have a right to climb this route as well. Heck, the Salathe Wall on El Cap is a free climb. Should all aid climbers be barred from climbing it? Common courtesy should be exercised by all involved. Maybe the aid climbers can offer to let the free climbers by after the first pitch?
Jun 17, 2002
RE/raps: a 60m will get you to the bolt anchor atop P1, and the leader can even lower down and belay the second from here, if desired (this will require exciting swinging shenanigans for both the leader and the follower).
Aug 4, 2001
A few thoughts. 1) You can get by with, at most, one #2 Camalot and nothing larger. I find this route protects well with plenty of Camalots between 0.5 and #1, some screamers for the pins and a few (very few) nuts and aliens. 2) Share the rock! I've seen many people tie up the route for half a day or more while pracicing aid. If must practice aid here, try going on off hours. 3) You can rap the route with one rope by swinging over to the anchors atop the second pitch of Athlete's feet. Tom Isaacson
Jul 31, 2001
Easy, there - Mr. A.C.! Personally, I enjoy SL's comments - his sense of history adds a hell of a lot of value and interesting reading to this site. Our local climbing history is incredibly interesting and invaluable and needs to be passed along to the next generation. Keep up the good work, Steve - you are a definite asset (and I have commenced my search for Roger's graffiti in Eldo - excellent bit of trivia you mentioned previously...).
May 25, 2001
- Crank It (aka Slabio)
The crux on this route is so gnarly. It makes the Viceroy extension feel like a flight of stairs. I'd like to think a foot hold broke, but deep down I know that's not true.
Jan 21, 2016
I have tried this line and could do it with one hang, but I never went back to link it up. A fun line that I felt was 13c for sure.
Aug 26, 2009
A couple months ago I watched Taylor Roy lead this route while placing gear. It was impressive. (I think he had previously red-pointed the route using the bolts). - Chad
Aug 9, 2005
Slabio is arguable one of the best pitches in the country if not the world! Three stars for good position. Moffat rated it 14a. Tommy C. down rated it to 13c. The crux is probably six inches long. The crack leading up to the anchors is 12c/d.
Aug 30, 2002
It was my understanding that Pat Adams bolted this but considered it an open project and Jerry did it when he was here to climb Just Do it. Pat's generosity is commendable. I think Peter's honesty is also commendable.
Aug 28, 2002
- Curving Crack
The crux section takes small gear (<0.4 C4), and one of the best holds is also one of the better placements, so that was a bummer for me on lead as I couldn't crank off of it. But the liebacking and stemming is great fun. Come on, 5.9? More BC sandbaggin', I have no problem giving this a 5.10a for my on-sight.
Sep 1, 2012
A great, delicate stemfest through a beautiful crack, then a jug rest before a small roof, what can I say? This thing brings out the footwork.
May 6, 2011
"Curving Crack" is sooo good. What can you say... it's another great "Castle Rock" sandbag classic. Boulder Canyon, Co.
Feb 1, 2010
Led this today, great and safe 5.9 I would definitely recommend this as there is plenty of gear to be placed making falling safe. I don't think this route is slick due to high traffic but rather due to the rock - actually adding to the character of this climb, it makes you think, starting with bigger jams, going to smearing with your feet and using the two walls of the dihedral. Climb this.
Sep 27, 2009
Seemed same difficulty as Dmentia over on Happy Hour to me, so I said 10a, as that is what Dementia is thought to be. Rating might be influenced by doing the right exit at the roof, instead of left, and it continues to be hard there. Chains/bolts for anchor seemed fine. Excellent pitch, and definitely easier than Skunk Crack (less greasy).
Aug 28, 2009
Good line but very stiff for the grade even seconding, as feet tend to slip off. More like 5.10a (UK E1 5b) it seemed to me, but I guess the 5.9 grade is "traditional".
May 8, 2009
That's why I can't figure out why so many people like this climb. I think 2 stars at best, and that's in cool weather.
Aug 7, 2008
If you smeared vaseline all over this route, I don't think it would make a difference.
Aug 7, 2008
What? This is great 5.9 maybe 5.9+ climbing on very solid rock. The pro is great and as I recall, bomber. Its not friction-granite (but little is at Castle), so may feel a bit slick. There are 2 pretty damn good rest positions/gear placing if you stem out with your left foot. As you can belay from your car there is zero approach. The climb is short but sweet. 2+ stars (3 if it was longer).
Oct 11, 2005
Did this route two weeks ago. My first 5.9 trad lead. I can sauce a 5.8+ but this thing was very tough for me. The protection wasn't super good but certainly adequate. The first section is a piece of cake, it gets interesting after the piton. The rock on this route is very slick and the foot holds suck! I wouldn't recommend this route for new 5.9 leaders! It felt like I was on my hands a lot with no real rests. Because of the approach I give it one star. Also, I believe the hangers at the top are on small bolts which aren't recommended for use anymore and one of them is loose.
Nov 22, 2004
Great Climb - 3 Stars!!! Get there early on weekends - it get's busy and when we were climbing there were two other parties waiting. What's up with the grafitti around the base of Castle? It's in spanish and I have no idea what it means. Is it some kind of anti-climber political thing or just the work of complete moron with too much time on this hands?
May 18, 2003
Another solid 5.9 that I recently discovered. I found the rock above the piton to be a little slick. It was difficult to smear/stem until I reached the overhang. Good climb though.
Oct 3, 2002
Man, I was up there with my kids in the creek the other day and these guys were eyeing up curving crack..... i told them it's awesome and they decided to do it. The guy hung at the hand crack, hung on the stemming in many places and fell off the roof a couple times....then he almost made it over the roof but fell and pulled a yellow alien and a blue alien and fell probably 40 feet upside down and was saved by the fixed pin.Man, it was fuckin' scary fall but he was ok with a helmet on too. Make sure you get a good placement in that upper chalked up crack (easy to do) and extend it cuz turning the roof pulls that cam around a bit and probably walked it enuff to cause it to pull on that guy...... careful out there but climb hard.
Aug 3, 2001
Went up and led this again a few days ago.....what a GREAT pitch. It's got it all, face climbing, perfect hands, liebacking, finger jams and wide stemming to a roof with some steep jug-hauling and a couple finger/hand jams to the chains....wooooohooooo....fun!
Jul 9, 2001
- Cussin' Crack
At the end of the v-slot, on the ledge with the rope hanging from above, there is a very large loose block/wedge. It's right above the crack - and you have to step over it to continue up. That thing is going to go soon - it moved a few times while we were up there.
Oct 26, 2016
I left my helmet at the top near the pine tree today. If you happen to have it, please pm me, your kindness will be greatly appreciated!
Jul 31, 2016
As of today, the rappel tree still had a piece of webbing and a leaver-to-Beaver biner that was taped shut. Thanks! Also, the bolt on the first pitch is pretty new and definitely worth clipping. Finally, just as you finish the cussin' part of the second pitch (the V-slot with kneebars) and you reach a nice sitting ledge, there is a piece of old rope hanging down there. It looks like it got stuck in the crack above. Not good as your belay anchor in case you are tempted to stop there. Best option would be to continue climbing past it and up the sort of chimney slot above until you top out on easier rock. First time back on this route since about 1976 or so. Seems more polished.
Jun 8, 2016
We did the descent off of Castle Rock this past Saturday with no problems. The tree that used to sport chains now has some new webbing with a leaver carabiner. I used tape to secure the gate for the rap. From the ground, I could spot the old bolt on pitch one...is there really a new one up there? Maybe the new just looks old from afar :)
Oct 7, 2015
Ok, the descent used to be head north to a tree with chains and webbing for a rap. Got there today, and the tree had no chains or webbing on it. We found a tree nearby that had a rap station setup but was much more awkward. One of the climbers had a nasty tangle with a branch. What happened to the usual rap point? Haven't seen any discussion here or alternate descent recommendation.
Jul 27, 2015
The bolt on the first pitch has been replaced and looks good.
Jul 24, 2015
To the OP: this has ALWAYS been a little slick! It's a water runnel.
May 15, 2013
Great climb with a truly "old school" adventure route feel! The right wall start is extremely spicy but fun; a #2 nut was my only pro until I gained the crack - big groundfall potential.
Sep 3, 2012
Let me take a moment to add to the BS about this route: P1: instead of climbing the chimney or face immediately right of the chimney, climb directly below the overhang to the right of the chimney. Good holds and protection can be had this way. Small cams and/or nuts. A few moves lead to the last portion of the chimney from where a ledge will be reached. Don't clip that bolt... instead place a small cam to its right, and pull the moves onto the belay ledge. 90' 5.7 P2: don't bother moving the belay unless you really need to see your second. Instead, move west about 15 feet, and climb over easy terrain that leads to a ledge below the v-slot. The v-slot is very fun and easily protected without large cams. This leads to a perfect belay ledge. 100' 5.7 (really?) P3: climb up a weird chimney and belay, 50', 5.7. P4: easy terrain up to the summit, 5.2, 75'. Fun climbing, great position and a beautiful summit.
Jul 13, 2012
Huh? This thing must've gotten a lot slippier since I climbed it back in the dark ages. Like Roger, it was one of my first leads, and thought it was much easier than the Bastille or Empor. The first time I did Jackson's Wall direct (I followed, didn't lead it), we used Cussin Crack for the downclimb, in the old blue Royal Robbins. Oh well, enough old fart crap.
Nov 16, 2011
Loved this climb...it sure was unique. Then again, I tend to find chimneys fun. The "cruxy" (for someone 5'8") move at the end of P1, the quick crack above that, grunting up the V, and the rest of the climb that seemed to go on forever. Had a big smile by the end. Definitely worth it.
Oct 24, 2011
I am ALSO a 5'3" woman, and it was very challenging to get past the bolt. After a few minutes of checking it out, I did the exact same thing. Went up right and traversed left. Very relieved when I hit the ledge. The rest of the climb was amazing but very polished. All much more challenging that anticipated - which I loved.
Jul 24, 2011
Ok, so if you 5'3", as I am, leading the move past the bolt is quite challenging! After reading other people's comments, I realized as soon as I got there I wouldn't be able to go up just to the right of the bolt. I ended up going up fartther right, up a slot with a broken piton. It was awkward, but doable. Then had to traverse back left above the bolt, which was a little scary and exposed but actually not terribly hard. Has anybody else gone this way?
Jul 18, 2011
When I started climbing, this was the first significant climb I ever led. It's really pretty safe and protectable.
Mar 19, 2011
Not a lot of fun. The pitch up the V-slot is the only pitch worth doing (and perhaps the first 15 feet of the first pitch if you take the semi-unprotected direct start). The V-slot makes you sweat and think, but before long you are out of it and topping out on boring terrain. The first pitch is too ledgy; basically a series of easy bouldering problems. I don't know if my fears of decking were legitimate, but they were always in the back of my mind.
Dec 12, 2008
I don't understand why this route is considered classic on so many lists. I soloed this route today and would have hated it if I had to deal with a rope and a bunch of cams, especially #4 Camalots, swinging around on my harness. Don't get me wrong, this isn't a bad line, I just don't think it deserves classic status. It doesn't feel very continuous with all the ledges and boulders, and even the second pitch you get tons of stem rests if you wanted them. Get on it and decide for yourself.
Mar 5, 2006
I loved this climb... Well, you could call it a love/hate sorta thing. Three stars for several reasons: This was [definitely] a departure from the routes you are going to see at gym or your local sport crag. Nasty full body climbing for most of this route. Shows what was considered a good route before modern climbing shoes were around. I also have a special place in my heart for a route that is rated 5.7 but makes me think and sweat as much as this did. Great, safe route that still takes you out of your comfort zone.
Oct 27, 2005
Old school grading... not for beginners who aren't very strong, placing gear from the greasy body smears and foot jams is exciting. I faced left side into the crack, right palm smearing on the right side of the dihedral. Reminds me of [Yosemite].
Jul 13, 2005
A Boulder Canyon classic and a good introduction to wide crack climbing. Here's how I like to do the climb: p1. 5.7, 80'. Climb the face right of the chimney. You can get in a nut and a small Alien down low, but you are soon in groundfall territory. The climbing isn't too hard (5.5), so stay with it until you can get in a good big cam below a chockstone at the top of the face. Continue up and traverse straight left to a ledge with an old bolt. You can back up the bolt with nuts and small cams. The move past the bolt can be done two ways. For me, the easiest is high right: climb up right of the bolt, step left onto a sloping ramp, and pull across onto your left foot. At 6'1", this felt about 5.6. The other way is low left: Continue left past the bolt, then crank straight up. This seems a lot harder. Belay on a big ledge just above this move. p2. 5.7, 70'. Move the belay to a higher ledge at the start of the V-slot. Climb the V-slot using knee-foot bars with the right leg (a kneepad on right knee is very helpful). Press down with the right palm and hop the left foot up the crack. Repeat several times and you're through the crux. The V-slot can be protected with small-to-medium cams and nuts; no need for a #4 Camalot. Belay on a good ledge at the top of the V-slot. p3. 5.7, 90'. More fun climbing on this pitch. Continue up to a corner and roof, pass it on the left, and cruise up to a good ledge about 30' below the summit. Belay here. Bring your partner up then unrope and scramble to the top. The descent is devious; pay careful attention to find the easiest way. From the top, head a little left and downclimb past a series of ledges, eventually reaching a tree with a chain and slings. You can rappel from here or continue left to a short steep downclimb that is easier than it looks. More moderate downclimbing leads to the trail.
Jul 9, 2005
Personally, would not recommend for someone just breaking into 5.7.
Jul 6, 2005
We climbed this yesterday (8-23-03) and thought it was a great climb. I lead the first pitch (via slab start) but instead of traversing up the ramp then back left to the mank bolt (which I guess is the 'official' route) I stepped across onto the face at the top of the slab and went straight up. Anyone know the name/rating of this variation? 5.7 maybe? I thought it made the lower portion of the climb much more interesting and way more challenging. The gear was OK, although stepping across and making the first move onto the face kind of scared the piss out of me (potential for an ugly fall).
Aug 24, 2003
The crux for me was the traverse on the first pitch. I stand at 5'6" and could not reach any holds and not a lot for the feet either. Found this to be frustrating. Any advice would help?? My friend Tim Feaver is much taller and the move was much easier for him. The second pitch is all about the grunt factor and doing whatever it takes as long as you are moving forward but really does protect well so go crazy. Getting off the top is not all that bad even though it was in the dark and no prior experience.
Aug 7, 2003
I recommend the boulder start. It was more fun than being in the chimney. I got two psychological nuts in the piton scar before making what turned out to be very easy slab moves to a comfortable shelf on the boulder. The crux to me was the tricky moves at the end of pitch one. On the traverse left, go up to the left of the bolt. Being 5 ft 7 in, I could just reach the handhold. I yarded on it with no feet and found a nice crack above. I threw a left heel up and was over. I think this is could be quite easy for a tall person, but it was a 5.8 to me. The move is all arms, almost no feet and not good protection. My partner, who is 5 ft 6 in, could not reach the hold and resorted to yarding on a sling I had left dangling down for her to yard on. We enjoyed the rest of the route. The v-slot is secure and protected.
May 23, 2003
Rossiter calls this a real classic, and I agree. I made the traverse left into a very short 2nd pitch. I clipped the manky hanger, then cranked up on the parallel cracks to the right of this hanger using the piton scarred pockets with the left hand and a decent seam on top that I got the end of my finger tips in with the right. I believe this move/variation to be 8+ as there are no feet until you commit by pulling up and yarding the left foot up high onto a small bowl. My shorter partner could not reach the high seam and went left of the hanger. The V slot is smooth and awkward but no harder than 7. Fun route!
Oct 11, 2002
First off, let me say that the downclimb is nothing. There's one section that is kindasorta exposed as you go down a slabby ramp section and then a single interesting downclimb that I would call 5.0 if it were any longer than 25 feet, but as is I call it fourth class. I've gone up and down it numrous times, and am in no way a superman trad climber who can do that kind of stuff with his eyes shut. The steep section has giant hand holds galore, and ledges, too. If you like you can find yourself a cave to crawl through or go over the giant boulder using the water hole on top as a ladder rung. Let me ask, if it were a ladder would you be more willing to downclimb it? Personally I think yes, and this is as easy if not easier than a ladder. You can smear! Oh, and the V-Slot is almost fourth class, if it weren't for the fall potential and the chimney and/or slab. The slippery section on the second pitch is the only thing that makes it 5.7, and I'd personally still call it 5.6. Like I said, I'm no superman trad climber. I've soloed cussin' crack, and only because I'm scared of gear, and gear just seemed to be a waste of time on this. Anyhoo, climb on!
May 2, 2002
Odd route, isn't it? btw - upon retrospect, I had gear in the cracks off to the right with a long sling when I approached the bolt. In case it blew I wouldn't crator. It was interesting to remember that it was "safe", maybe I looked at it and said "at least it will hold a quickdraw;" otherwise I wouldn't have even clipped it ;-p.
Sep 20, 2001
Clare: You were on the correct route, to the left of the bolt (I use the term "bolt" loosely when referring to this protection point).
Sep 20, 2001
Led the first pitch of this today. Did the slab start to right of chimney: I thought it was fun (put in one pyschological nut), although a couple of years ago it haired me out. I could not, however, find the "proper" route for the traverse at the end of the first pitch. We ended up going a ways out onto the bench and doing a hard move to scramble up a small slot to the left of the skanky looking bolt on the face. Is the "real" route to the RIGHT of the bolt, up the cracks, the right one of which has a broken off piton? This seemed harder than 5.7! Help!
Sep 19, 2001
Comments from the optimists club: lest anyone be turned off by the above comments (I almost was...) here's my take from yesterday's climb: Interesting chimney start and odd mantel/hand traverse at safe bolt. A crazy move - neat. Belay on super ledge looking up at impressive V-slot. 2nd pitch starts with an odd sized crux with a bomber #4 - safe/fun/odd!! Go up to the first break where two distinct shelfs appear - one being on the left of the crack and one to the right, right on the arete. Make a belay in the crack above and have a great seat on the arete with a perfect view of your second attacking the v-slot. From this wonderful belay, climb the last bit of good climbing up a steep corner then run it out to the summit. I love climbs that end on the summit, and climbs with history. If this was more sustained I could see a third star. Two stars - just right! The descent was not that bad - just pretend you're bushwacking in the Adirondacks and don't miss the rappel tree tucked away on the shelf to the right (as you look down the north face) - the one with the CHAIN around it - once the downclimb gets "serious". The key to this climb? Sunshine, the arete-seat-belay and good company...
Sep 10, 2001
I did the route with a total beginner. The slab pitch was easy but run out(don't fall). The second pitch was a great dihederal although the v-slot was slick, it was just 1 move then a great long pitch with challenging moves. Definately worth a look, but remember it's old school 5.7. My partner thought it was a great route but told me to keep in mind that he didn't lead it. Remember to leave daylight for descent.Will Maercklein june 30, 00
Jul 1, 2001
Did this route on April 1st, 2001 with Dave Klein - the date seemed appropriate. This climb (pitch 2) definitely seemed... odd. First I felt sandbagged by the rating, but in retrospect, maybe its just a really weird climb, and 5.7 is as good a guess as any to what the rating should be. I followed that pitch, and had a good struggle with the slick rock in the v-slot... the climb is aptly named; lets leave it at that. Previously, I had considered this as my second trad lead, but now I am very glad I just followed it. Definitely not a good beginner lead. Did we miss something? Also, descent blows when snow is still around. We ended up rapping off the back. I guess that is the definition of a "classic"?!?
Jan 1, 2001
The 2nd pitch is the only good pitch on this climb and the crux is a short slippery section protected by #4 Camalot...just one move and you are secure with a good hold...pretty cruiser I thought on my second lead, but first time up there I was a bit freaked by the slipperyness of this section also.... Best way to descend from the summit is to scramble to north and look for big ledge with pine tree that has chain and carpet around it...rappel from here to avoid the worst of the down-climbing.... Hardly feels like a classic climb (done it twice) but the 2nd pitch is long and fun. Also, start the first pitch by climbing the slab to the right before entering the cave (fun)...or an easier start is around to the right from the slab up the shallow corner...the chimney sucks but is quite easy. I'd say it's a pretty good beginner lead since it is not very sustained, has good pro and only one move of 5.7 at the crux, one of the easier 5.7s around boulder that I remember...Bailey's overhang (75 feet left of Cussin's) is a better climb than Cussin but has one move (the overhanging slot) that is 5.8...the rest is fun and sustained 5.6. Pitch 2 goes up the grassy looking crack/corner but is actually WAY cool and sustained 5.6 with a move or 2 of 5.7 (lots of fun).....other good beginner leads at this level might be all of the 5.7s at Happy Hour Crag (the long one up the middle is fun, Malign), Washington Irving and Duh Dihedral (both 5.6 and on the West Ridge at Eldo), Your Basic Lieback (sustained 5.6 hand crack/lieback on lower Peanuts wall in Eldo), Wind Ridge, The Owl on the Dome (Cozyhang sucks bad) and many others....
Jan 1, 2001
The route actually goes up the chimney to the left for the first pitch... you could go up the face, I guess, but the pro would be spicy to the extreme.
Jan 1, 2001
Nothing wrong with a little spice.
Jan 1, 2001
- Cussing Fingers Variant
- Deadline
Good overhanging aid (A1 due to long moves?) practice spot. The bolts remove most of the groundfall potential. There are definitely a couple of reachy placements. Fun!
Jun 20, 2014
- Deersquatch
It would be nice to have a better idea where this variation goes. There is a variation that was lead by John Matson in the 80's that uses the first piece of pro on the first pitch of Athlete's Feat but instead of mantling by the second bolt, the line traverses left below the headwall and up to the first pitch anchors of Athlete's Feat from below. By all accounts it is pretty run out.
Jun 19, 2007
I'm confused about where this route is. The route just left of Athlete's Feat is called Never A Dull Moment. The first pitch is a slab traverse to the right and is protected by two bolts. It is rated 12a and seems to be reasonably protected (on this first pitch). To the left of this route is Jackson's Wall Direct (aka South Face). Does it lie in between these two routes? Are the anchors shared with another route?
Aug 30, 2002
If you want blow-by-blow beta go to the BRC
May 24, 2002
nice description. What I gained from it was that this "route" starts somewhere left of Athlete's Feet; that there is a sidepull somewhere on the pitch; and that somewhere up there you'll find fixed anchors. Oh, and i also learned that it has unprotected, loose climbing. nice contribution.
May 14, 2002
- Direct Start
- Dropout Option
This is a wonderful finish to Final Exam and deserves more attention! The holds are positive and the climbing is bouldery. I found it to be higher quality and only slightly more difficult than its neighbor, the Pass/Fail Option. The difficulty felt similar to me as other hard 11s at Castle Rock, although it may be closer to 12a/b if you are shorter? The small gear at the start of the roof is bomber; however, it is small. We found that a bomber 0.3 X4 cam fit very well under the small gear to protect the crux. Interestingly, neither the 0.3 C4 or the yellow C3 fit in the placement. With the X4, the route felt very safe, and a ground-up effort would be a fun challenge for a solid climber. If you want to avoid rope drag, build an anchor on the slab above Final Exam and pull your rope through before tackling the roof. Go get on it!
Jul 13, 2014
- E-Z Action
- Englishman's Home
Brillant pitch linked as one with CCC! A single set of cams with doubles in fingers and a couple nuts will sew the whole pitch up.
Sep 21, 2012
Awesome route. No doubt one of the best trad lines in Boulder Canyon. One little tip for those who are interested: if you are going for the whole thing as one pitch, I highly recommend bringing triples (at least) of finger and big finger size cams (yellow and orange Metolius or equivalent) as well as extras in the #6 stopper/ #4 rock range.
Jul 26, 2010
Wow. Castle Rock is so cool. I did this spectacular route yesterday. I had to give the bottom mantle a couple efforts before seeing the sequence and sending it (I obviously needed some Royal Robbins boots to trust my feet) and linking into the next pitch for one general odyssey of a climb. Holy-moly rope drag!!---extend your gear with slings, not draws at the thin changing corners crux. Also, let's replace the spinning, rusting SMC bolts that protect the mantle. I need a drill.... One gear beta response to the original post is that you can get really good gear above the slab, at the base of the thin corner. At the corner is a small, secure, offset nut. And down about 5 feet and right is bomber 1" piece or #0.5 Camalot. Awesome. Will definitely climb this route again sometime.
Apr 29, 2010
I'll agree with the comment above. Sic, sic, SIC climb! The best BC has to offer. I thought Arm's Bazaar was the best until yesterday. Great pro the whole way with unrelenting moves. Just go for it! Definitely do it as one pitch, and take lots of slings. An 11d onsight and you'll need to have your gear dialed in at the crux for a successful send.
Apr 30, 2007
Sic, Sic...Sic Climb!! One of the best in the Boulder area if you can climb the Grade. Forget the first part of Country club, just do this climb! BE CAREFUL once you have pulled the mantle, you will certainly deck until you get something in the first dihedral, as mentioned above. A double set of Aliens, blue to red, is the best pro for this climb, it's almost like cheating. (plus whatever you need for the crux of Country Club) You can do this in one pitch, one rope, if you have a 70m, which will reach the anchors for athletes feet, then another short rappel down.
Sep 17, 2004
If you lead this in one pitch from the ground, make sure to use long slings at the start. One idea is to clip the fixed pin and bolt on the Athlete's Feat mantle, then downclimb and unclip from the pin. Once above the mantle reach down and change the QD on the bolt to a long runner. Also, consider using long slings on the gear at the start of the crux section (added excitement), and don't protect right under the CC Crack roof. I did all this and still had some rope drag on the CC Crack crux finger crack, but it was most likely just the weight of the rope. However you do this route, it's gotta be one of the best 5.11 trad climbs anywhere. Hats off to Alec Sharp and Bill Feiges for putting this one up.
Sep 19, 2002
I think this is a great route, one of the best in the Boulder area. In the 'changing corners' section you can have excellent protection above your head for all the hard moves. The 2nd pitch looks much harder than it turns out to be.
Aug 31, 2002
- Fallout Zone
- Final Exam
I thought this climb was pretty good. It was very difficult for me to not do the crux move dynamically. Good route, brief but burly crux. Well protected with small cams.
Jun 24, 2013
Soloed this on sight, 25 years ago. Funny thing is, the few occasions times since then Ive tried it on toprope, Ive never been able to get up it at all...sigh.....
Apr 13, 2012
Didn't lead this, but I think you can get good nuts and small cams on lead. If you want to TR this just start 6' to the left and go up a 5.8 crack...anywhere you want below the big roof (Pass Fail) you can setup a TR anchor. Right below the Pass Fail roof I setup and anchor with nuts/small cams, but if you have several hand size pieces you can set a belay anywhere along the way. To descend: You can traverse across to the rap above Coffin Crack or finish Bailey's Overhang route. I clipped the rope into the rap station and put a few pieces on the traverse before I went over there, fyi. It felt way easier now, but still feels solid 5.11 to me. :) Especially if you are going to onsight this thing!
Mar 13, 2010
Maybe smaller fingers help. I got a really good left ring finger knuckle in at the crux that let me fire up high to the next clings and jug. But it took me 2 tries to find it- first try just bloodied me.
Jul 1, 2009
I agree with Paul, this route handed me my ass in a waffle cone. I thought I was strong until....
Nov 25, 2008
If you are expecting Boulder Canyon 5.11a, think again. This is trad 5.11a rating all the way. It felt like 5.11 moves to me....especially if we were talking onsight grading. Having said that - after working the moves, it really was several 5.10 moves to one burly move and then you're done. Felt more like a sequency boulder problem, because once you gain the slab it is so much easier. There is a fixed nut in place right at the crux presently.
Jun 25, 2008
- Flow, The
- Free Range
I finally fixed the Free Range description, per Chris' comments. Sorry I haven't been climbing here much recently :)
Oct 11, 2011
Tried this one today as well as "Surface Tension." and got killed. The start was ok, but turning my body into "Cage Free" with zippo feet, while keeping your composure and busting out that huge toss was just madding. A really cool problem. I think waiting for cooler temps and getting a stronger everything on my body before taking the completion of this seriously is going to be my deal. The tension is crazy!!! I felt stronger on "Midnight Express." Anyway, sick hook up to "Cage Free." Can't wait to see the reverse send from "Surface Tension" into "Cage Free" go!!! That's gonna be nuts!! All good lines on this wall!! Wait for good temps and low water to play here man... for-sure..
Sep 3, 2009
The start for free range is from a sloping left hand pinch, not the arete....
Apr 25, 2009
- Gill Crack, The
I remember bouldering this thing back in the mid-'80s. Got both hands and one foot off the ground. Felt about .10a.
Aug 21, 2017
Not particularly painful at all, easy to protect with offset Mastercams (as long as you avoid plugging your jams). Placed three pieces total (not including the finish on Black Crack), with the third after hitting the jug at the top. Burly and fun.
May 9, 2016
As a not-5.12 climber, I can say that this thing hurts. Lots of potential to kick your belayer in the face, as it is hard from the moment you leave the ground.
Nov 9, 2013
Wish it was longer!!!
Sep 5, 2013
11c/d if you know the beta?... I have to admit I led this one after numerous times on TR and figuring out the best way to place gear. So, it is probably a 12a grade for onsight, or something. Placed a 0.75 BD at the beginning, yellow C3 in the middle, and green C3 just before pulling what seems like the crux. I have not yet tried it, but probably bouldering it might be significantly easier than leading and placing gear. But you need two mats and a good spotter for it.
Sep 12, 2011
I remember being up at Castle Rock alone one afternoon, it's the early eighties, I'm bouldering laps on The Gill Crack. Alex Lowe shows up. "Damn, Bobby!" "You bouldering that thing?" he says. Feeling good and a bit smug. "Yea" I say. It's not too bad as long as you get the top sequence of jams right. I give him the finishing right, left, right, jam sequence beta. This is so you end with right hand on the top hold and are able to reach out left with your left hand to Burnt Crack for the finish. Alex steps up and proceeds to fire it. Comes down and says "Yea, you're right!" "DAMN, Alex!" Found memories of bouldering this, Final Exam, Acrobatic Overhang, etc. and then roping up and doing the Campaigner with Alex one day up at Castle Rock. Not only was he a great climber, he was a great guy, gracious, and great company. Those were good days! Young and fit. Wish I could still boulder this thing now, and wish Alex was still with us.
Aug 12, 2011
So cool to hear these stories, John. Keep them coming!
Aug 2, 2010
First time I went here (1976), Bachar solos the Gill Crack and downclimbs the Black Crack in like one minute. Shit, I think, that looks easy. It is, says Bachar, but it wasn't as easy as John made it look, not with my fat ass fingers. Lucky it's short. Still, I thought on-sighting the Acrobatic Overhanging was more perilous since it's harder (V4?) and has a far worse landing. JL
Aug 2, 2010
Painful and hard as hell. The feet are on grease and the fingers scream. Hats off to JG.
Jul 7, 2010
I ripped a cam in a fall off this yesterday. I had an orange Metolius TCU in the last finger lock before the final "jug". The pin scar nature of this placement (narrow, deep crack) didn't really let the cam orient properly, and I think it levered out as I fell onto it. I was really pumped and trying to make the final move over to Black Crack when I fell. A bomber #7 BD stopper ~4 feet below the TCU kept me off the ground (barely). When I went back up, the same cam placed much better in the second-to-last finger lock (easy to place once you are past it). I'm glad to say I never tested this placement the way I tested the first, but it looked much better. This is a really fun climb, and requires faith in some really shallow locks.
Sep 6, 2009
This is the 1st line I tried when I arrived in Colorado back in 1998 or so and to say the least got kicked around, man, and I was or I thought I was a 5.12 climber at the time. One I got used to the rock I got this line on (TR) a few years later. I would not boulder it and a gear ripping fall would be worse than bouldering it I think. So it was the (TR) for me. It's a sweet heart of a line. All pain for me. Wait for fall or cooler temps to run this one!!! Great chunk of stone.
Sep 3, 2009
Finally got this one on the lead placing the gear. Super fun, one of the best short routes I have done. Bring a pad, a yellow C3 for near the top of the crack. Once you get the jug you only need a #3 Camalot, maybe some small wires, the pin and a #1 Camalot, extend the last couple pieces. Don't bother putting in the gear low, it probly won't keep you off the ground anyway. Just fire the moves to the only stance and place the yellow C3 above you for the last few moves to Black Crack. Go do it. Great climb. Props to Gill!
May 4, 2009
Brute force sure doesn't hurt if you are not tall. I had to show up ready for a fight to make the redpoint. Watch how that yellow TCU gets placed, it is bomber in one orientation, and can rip in another, so pay attention to it if you don't have a great belayer. Great send, tape is your friend.
Aug 14, 2007
Definitely not a finger wrecker... I pinched my right pinky because I slotted my hand for a bomber jam, but my untaped fingers looked way better than my all-taped fingers on some S Platte crack. There are many positive jams/locks on this route to place gear, but just remember that anything you place above your head will probably be a hold you'd want to use.
Jun 11, 2007
I suggest to use a pad to get off the deck before placing gear down low. You can get a good finger lock about 15 feet up, then place a bomber piece right at your chest. It will help you not fiddle with too much gear. I think I used a #0.4 Camalot there, and then yellow TCU after that.
May 12, 2007
I agree with Jason. As far as finger cracks go, this thing really isn't painful, even without tape. If you are not too accustomed to climbing fingercracks, you may feel some pain. I have particular respect for Gill for doing lines like this in the style he did.
Jul 21, 2006
This is a great line and it is not the finger wrecker that everyone claims it to be. There is one painful fingerlock for the left hand, but overall, if you know how to jam, it is not any more painful than any other finger crack route. I bouldered this today, trying to live up to Gill's standards, downclimbing Black Crack after hitting the jug. I just couldn't bring myself to climbing it in boots and sans a pad. Even with technology, like sticky rubber on my shoes, Gill will always be better then me...
Mar 5, 2006
Brute finger (tip) force - pain is guaranteed. Feet are pretty damn bad. If it was another foot or two I simply wouldn't have made it - as it was I'm not too sure I can say that I did anyway. . . .
Oct 11, 2005
Finger wrecker.
Aug 16, 2004
Consider yourself accomplished merely to get off the ground here... I TR'd this one after leading Black Crack and had a grand old time getting 8' off the ground. I wish I was as good as JG.... :_(
Sep 26, 2003
- Gluten Free
Slightly painful fingerlock at the crux but good climbing. I believe it could have been climbed/developed as a trad route... and I'd advocate that sort of climbing. As a trad lead it looks engaging but not dangerous. Sm-med stoppers, small cams, and maybe a ball-nut if you wanted to do it completely boltless and without a runout. Will have to go back when it is not raining and give it a go as such. To answer the question above from Mark Roth, I think the #3 goes high and left between the last bolt and the anchor.
Aug 11, 2012
Great route! Still a little dirty but super fun. Climbs way harder than it looks. I never saw where the #3 would go? If you can manage the crux, you would be fine without any supplemental gear. I placed a #0.5 Camalot before the anchor and noticed other possible placements as well, but not for the #3....
Jun 28, 2012
- Hardboiled
Start matched on the low fin, RH to a pinchy crimp on the obvious little block, punch left to a small incut edge, RH to the obvious edge just over the lip, reach LH to a bad sloping, pockety edge, move right to the horizontal crimps, match, left foot over, reach for the sidepull LH and stand up.
Oct 2, 2009
I wonder which sidepull you are talking about. Most ascents go RH to the lip. I easily pulled off the original LH hold leaving a very solid small LH edge/undercling. I'm surprised to hear that might be flexing and wonder if it is actually the same one.
Sep 27, 2009
I heard that the start of this problem has broken? As in... it fell apart?!? I seem to remember the starting holds being quite solid but since I've not been back to confirm this Intel - I was wondering if anyone else has heard about or can confirm the broken starting hold(s) information. Thanks
Aug 22, 2009
Got on this one today. It was a lot of fun. I could not figure the beta to get my body over the lip yet. Seems there may be a few good ways to do this one, but I just could never make total since of the moves to get one's self mounted up on the up part of the wall!!? Just day one though.... hopefully a few more visits and I will send. F.Y.I. I a decent place to cross to river that is close to the problem. It's a log jam that was ok to cross and made access much easier. But as usual be careful if you walk the logs as I did... you could take a spill of even get hurt!!!
Jun 12, 2009
Yes albeit with Olsonian heelhook beta going to the crimp below the lip on the left
May 9, 2008
There is a nice video of Ryan Olson climbing Hardboiled at: boulderingmedia.com/videos/…
May 9, 2008
- Hit Hard Tactics
Chad, You are so right, man!!! I made a major mistake by accident. I check the link you posted and that helped so much. I will make the proper correction A.S.A.P. If you have any other information you would like to provide, it would be much appreciated. Again, Thanks. Luke Childers.
Aug 26, 2009
I think hit hard tactics is the stand start to surface tension. bouldercanyonbouldering.blo…
Aug 26, 2009
- Invisible Idiot
After doing this on TR, I wouldn't try to lead it. The gear looks questionable.... Some really fun moves though!
Aug 25, 2009
This is fun TR after doing curving crack. I think the stemming moves and liebacks are a kick in the pants! Would be a serious lead, however. Probably more fun and quicker to do a few laps on TR then to lead it. I personally think that its pretty stout for a 9.
Aug 29, 2005
- Jackson's Wall
All in all, this climb turned out to be surprisingly pleasant. For sure, it was the final pitch to the top that made it well worth it. Only had to place one cam the entire route as pitons and fixed gear abound.
Jul 26, 2015
Just did this this weekend (actually the 5.9 varaiation that goes up the face to the same first belay spot). Wanted to mention that THE ANCHORS HAVE BEEN CHOPPED. Either that, or I was way way off route, but there is a obvious ledge after the chimney that would be a nice belay station where you can see that 3 anchors/bolts have been chopped. Just so you know.
Jul 13, 2015
I thought the chimney was rather straightforward. I have leather patches on my pants and used knee locks until I could stand on the rather comforting inside ledge. There were two places I could get small wires for decent protection.
Jul 22, 2013
We climbed this on 6/20/13, and there was a nasty loose rock on the exposed traverse just above the bolted belay. It's marked with a couple white Xs, but they look to be fading. It's something you will want to grab if you're not paying attention, and there's a good chance it would hit your belayer or folks on the ground below. Be careful! Other that that, we found this climb better than expected. The chimney start isn't particularly fun, but the rest of the route is quite nice.
Jun 21, 2013
It definitely makes more sense to break this up into 4 short leads to avoid awful rope drag.
May 16, 2013
Even though the book says to climb this in two pitches, I usually go in four. I do the slab start R of the chimney, then up to the gully. P2 goes up to the bolted belay. P3 is kinda a guide trick. I do the traverse around the roof, go up the corner to its top and belay right there. It's short but allows great communication between everyone and makes the last pitch a bit more pleasant for the leader. Really a great route.
Aug 29, 2012
One of the easier climbs on Castle Rock; honest at 5.6. Biggest part is getting back down via North Face descent. Did this the 1st time in December 1961 while home from Army on leave. Icy nightmare getting down!
Mar 12, 2011
We broke this climb into four short pitches. This significantly reduces rope drag and makes communication a little easier. With a 50m rope stopping above the chimney at the obvious ledge is probably a better option then trying to stretch it all the way to the bolts anyway. With the exposure above the bolted belay and the high potential for rope drag, I wouldn't recommend this route for beginning leaders. Lots of fun though!
Sep 21, 2010
Weird route. The first pitch (or two as some people do it) is not very aesthetic or fun, at all. Once you reach the bolted belay, the climbing is steep and fun for the grade, but be very mindful of rope drag, unless of course you are fond of climbing one handed with a mouthful of slack just to manage the drag.... If you can, run it out a bit, it's much more enjoyable that way.
Sep 20, 2007
Only about 10 feet of rope remain (using a 60m) when finished belaying the leader up this fun climb. For my first real chimney, the start of Jackson's Wall was a challenge but fun to try to figure out (though not much rock suitable for pro placement) how to climb (you can also climb the face, but pro is very limited)! For the chimney, first face left, then half way up you have to turn around and face right, then move out on the face for a bit until you catch the crack up to the short traverse right to the rather obvious belay ledge. On P2 there are a couple of exposed moves you have to do, but relatively easy climbing. The second move after the ledge is a bit of a push up onto a ledge about 6" wide at most that is made by a rather sharp flake. You can try to do a foot jam in the flake while you pull yourself up, but I found this to be a bit awkward when trying to get my foot out at a sharp angle while pushing up onto the ledge. If you go left, you will find some footholds that will help you. The next move is a high step right up onto a narrow stone ridge-like flake that gives a lovely view between it and the main rock down to the road and water below. From there up it gets easier and less exposed. Nice variety of moves required. Relatively easy walk off the opposite side down to the left. Enjoy! Girasol
Sep 4, 2007
Two FEISTY ravens have built a large nest in the ramp just before you exit right at the top of the first pitch. Though it would have added some spice to the route, we opted not to challenge them.
Apr 1, 2007
A few notes: I didn't like the looks of the chimney start for my beginner on the first pitch, so I opted for the slab to the right. I was able to place a stopper (which popped out) about 8 feet off the ground, and then I ran it out the rest of the way (about 25 feet from the ground). Good 5.6 s warm up for the 4th class hiking above. Make sure you don't stop in the gully until you hit the double bolt chain anchor at the base of the crux pitch. Less pitches that way. Be careful of rope drag on the crux pitch. I found I was zig zagging a lot looking for the easiest line. The 5.8 direct finish would have probably been less draggy (and more fun). But then I'd be hauling my 2nd up manually. Fun route overall. Though I couldn't really see it, since I was doing an after work sunset race.
Oct 5, 2005
- Jackson's Wall Direct
Already listed under "South Face".
Jun 28, 2002
- Knight With a Shining Stick
Useful toys to bring on this one: 4 each #0 and #1 heads (incase fixed heads are missing), a few heads in the bigger sizes, circle heads, all sizes of beaks and hooks.
Jun 16, 2012
Tell ya what, go and aid it first and see what you think of the gear, and the major lack of useable features. We never got up it.... Sounds like your gear options are either: 1. Aid the line and test the placments and replace what rips (you're probably gonna whip as I ripped one by hand and blew out on a time bomb that tested well). 2. Rap the line and fix enough heads to deem the route sane (hopefully you're good at heading as the placements are tricky as they are mostly chiseled out placments in a awkwardly bottoming, shallow, flared seam). 3. Retro bolting, hopefully on lead, and infrequently at that. Only with the FA's permission. The line is damn bleak in general even when hanging from gear. I don't know how many people actually repeated this route. I feel it's either X/ borderline insane and super hard or it's downgraded for any future aid ascentionist and still super hard. Seems in either domain (free or aid) it's a test piece. Unless you're contemplating the X rated/ borderline insane, how do you justify that it would be ok to retro bolt and down grade an aid test piece just to put up some mixed protected free test piece? Just curious, it's a bit of a sensitive subject for me. I don't mean to single you out, but I think someday I'd like to finish the route up and hopefully in its current condition. I feel like China Doll in Upper Dream Canyon would have been a much more enjoyable route before it was retro protected for the free ascent (same with the aid roof on castle rock). I think it would be the same case here, and I am not condoning that even if it already is a chipped up heading line that will require someone who is really really good at heading to see a repeat.
Feb 5, 2010
Has anyone tried to free either a straight up version or the standard line?? They look hard, but possible. Does anyone has any info on this matter? Thanks.
Jan 31, 2010
Attempted to put up the straight up variation on pitch 1 today. It's a bummer, but the only edge to hook on has been blown out. I was high stepping off a hybrid Alien hoping to get a Pecker in upside down in the roof as I could just about reach upto it, the hybrid was a time bomb and next thing I know I land on 2 separate heads with screamers on them (one was my adj. daisy with a screamer) both screamers deployed paritally and I didn't have to whip like Eric when he attmepted this. He broke his finger when the edge he was hooking on blew and he ripped a few pieces (falling 20 ft, nearly decked on slabs below). I got stabbed in the leg with a Pecker when I came to a stop. The straight up variation of pitch 1 hasn't gone for a reason.... Still need to get back up and try to rebate the second pitch.
Feb 22, 2009
STOUT! A rebate is in order. I need to learn the art of tough heading first though. Only 1 fixed dead head still in place off the ramp on P2, I ripped the first one (fixed head) while trying to get something in above. Time bomb! I decked on the ledge safely enough. Then I came in from the seam just to the left via hooks to Peckers finally making a large reach to pound in a beaked RURP atop the dead head. Made my way up and made another long reach up to the next fixed head and clipped it, then ripped it out by hand essentially. We decided to bail as we had no #0 heads and I didn't feel capable of learning the art of hard heading on the sharp end on a route rated A4 in the guide. Yep, I bit off a little more then I could chew here on this one, I was hoping for more good fixed heads I think. Now I have a good project to work on, and a new skill to hone.
Feb 9, 2009
This route was put up by aid masters Matt Buckner and James J. Funsten VI in the mid nineties. Both are now semi-retired from this sort of carry-on.
Jun 3, 2005
A few years ago I went up and tried to TR the second pitch(solo). There were fixed heads everywhere! I started up and the 3rd fixed head off the ramp blew! I was just moving onto it and hadn't moved my Tr device up or unclipped my daisy from the previous piece. I took a short fall and when I stopped I realised I had broken the cable of the previous head in half, with the loop still attached to my daisy and the head still in the rock! I cleaned the deadhead and tried to place another but could not get it to stick. If you are going to try this route you will probably need a sharp punch to place this #1 head. Also most of the head placements appeared to be chiseled?
Jun 16, 2002
- Mexican Picnic
Great line! Harder than it seemed at first. Placing the gear after the last bolt is pumpy, but it's there if you can hang around to find it - then all you have to worry about is the crux! Tons of slings are helpful.
May 30, 2013
What a wild route! It's definitely seeing a bit of action, judging from chalk, and seems plenty clean and safe.
Sep 20, 2012
Fun and Exciting. Still cleaning up a bit.
May 18, 2012
For the full 5.13 enchilada, start at the Water World dihedral right of Tourist Extravagance, go up 30'and traverse left across a burly undercling/jam, cross Tourist Extravagance above its bolt ladder, clip 2 bolts with some vertical yoga in the Skatepark scoop thing, and finish up the Mexican Picnic arete cracks. For the mild-ish 5.11 tamale, climb the 5.11 section of Mexican Picnic from Country Club to the anchor at 30 meters, just before the upper 5.12 crux. A 70 meter rope just makes the lower off from the top anchor.
Apr 24, 2012
- Midnight Express
Worked on the bottom for a short while and got my butt off the ground... so that was exciting!! Now I've go to stick the chip like undercling and I will put this hog away. Still looking for the best solution for the opening moves on this sweetheart. I just love this line man!!! The top-out is still spooky though!
Aug 25, 2009
Holly... MAN... this is the mother of all lines!! I loved this problem more than life!! Although I couldn't do the first two moves, which is the bizz, I was able to work out the rest of the problem to my total satisfaction!! The line is like gold!!!! The top-out is scary because of the death landing but the holds were good enough for me to relax and top-out. Just need to put that opening sequence together and I will never ask for any thing ever again. I'm an addict of "Midnight Express" now!! The opening sequence could take me the rest of my life but this is my forever until sent project!! Just a great problem with moves that exist only in our dreams. It's a must do!!
Aug 24, 2009
- Never a Dull Moment
I haven't led first two pitches of this climb since 1986. I used to combine these pitches as one, using double ropes. I can understand how someone would call this 5.12b, especially since the block is gone past the crux moves of the crack. After some desperate lieback moves, a juggy wedged block was reached. The block moved but didn't pull off, because it sat a big slot that opened up in the thin crack corner. The jug / block gave you a good place to shake out before the final 10 feet of the climb. Without it, the second pitch must be harder. I consider the second pitch to be R rated. The unprotected traverse to start the pitch is quite committing. The rest of the pitch protects quite well, but I wouldn't consider doing it without two sets of RPs or #2-6 Black Diamond steel nuts. I also placed a #1 Friend, #2.5 Friend, & a #11 or 12 stopper. I was surprised to see Peter's gear description recommend small to medium stoppers & not tiny nuts (micro-stoppers) or RPs. I was just looking at an old gear topo I drew back in the 1980s in my personal diary. I can also understand how someone would think the first pitch was 5.12b. The first pitch is quite hard especially if you are tall with a big chest. While hanging on fingernail edges & traversing the sloping shelf, the wall bulges a bit into my chest. This wants to push me off. Shorter climbers seem to have a bit easier time, as their arms are straighter (not chicken winged) & the bulge is more at face level.
Jul 14, 2017
Adam, Like Bob R. says above I always thought the crack was harder than the micro slab start, but they're 2 different animals. Haven't done the slab in like 20 yrs. Try to avoid it, but the crack is killer. Horan use to lead the slab barefoot many years ago. Also watched Roger Briggs lead the crack no problem...rope solo! Peace
Sep 3, 2015
The first pitch slab traverse is my vote for the hardest 5.12 in the Front Range. Has it ever been on-sighted on lead? For that matter, how many people have even lead it in the last decade?
Sep 2, 2015
Just ran across the comments on this one and had to pipe in as it brought back memories. The slab pitch is some tedious footwork and balance, helped by fingernails on micro-edges to just stay in balance. However,I always thought the crack was harder than the slab. Although the slab could be harder now due to degradation of the micro fingernail holds. It took me multiple attempts, with Maurice Reed, Jeff Achey, and others over several different days to finally get the crack on this clean in the early '80s. Protection was tricky, and the finish was always the big stopper for me and seemed to be the real crux overall. A hard Castle Rock classic testpiece for sure!
Sep 20, 2013
Thanks, Topher. The decision to add these anchors was not taken lightly. The reasons Topher gives are real, and I discussed the placement plenty before deciding where to place them. When you reach the no hands stance for the anchors, the climb is over. To get to the Athlete's Feat chains is 20ft of 5.4.
Apr 28, 2012
I didn't place the new anchor, but I was in on the discussion deciding to add it. The reason for the new anchor was to prevent the rope from running across, and leveraging when top-roping, the big, detached block which sits on the slab between the lip and the bolted anchor on Athlete's Feat. It seemed like a matter of time and freeze/thaw cycles before someone pulled it down with lethal results.
Apr 28, 2012
BIG THANKS to whoever recently added the 2-bolt anchor on top of this rig. Grade, stars for direct start. Hard 12b crux at 2nd bolt, then finicky but good small & medium gear with another 12- crux about 3/4 up. Not as heads up as I expected although I definitely figured the gear out on TR first. A notch or two harder and just as awesome as its 4-star neighbors to the right.
Jul 24, 2011
Cojones...you know, balls.
Feb 13, 2009
Okay, I have to ask... onions?
Feb 13, 2009
P1: Fingernails (literally). P2: Onions (pre-micro days).
Feb 12, 2009
A little late to the discussion, but I agree with Adam. And I'm good at slabs! I could not figure out the 1st pitch (I only tried it once) for the life of me. I really couldn't compare it to much else, just climbing on nothing with no clear sequence........I got spanked. And the whole time that bitchin' looking crack above my head was mocking me. Hangs head. Paybacks a bitch tho!
Feb 12, 2009
Maybe it's just another case of routes feeling different to different people. I sent both Arms and Spoils in a couple days of work while Never A Dull Moment is still spanking me. Never A Dull Moment (slab linked into crack as one pitch) feels miles harder than any 12a or b trad I have done anywhere in the Front Range. Grade discussion aside (as it is a rather silly dicussion in the first place), this is one stellar chunk of granite with beautiful movement, excellent rock and continiously difficult movement. Further proof that Alec Sharp had a master eye for finding routes.
Aug 14, 2008
Adam, I've not been back on the route since you & I were there. I shameless took the grade from Rossiter's book; how am I to judge what the grade of the original traverse is if I haven't been able to do it? Still, I don't think doing the traverse would add any pump to the rest of the route. In that respect, I'd think Evictor is much harder. This is the only climb (original traverse) I've been on where I think I'd have a better chance of making the move if I strap some weights on my ankle (to shift my weight balance). As for BoCan grade, Rossiter called both Arms Bazaar and The Spoils @ 12a and I'd think the latter is easily 1 letter grade (if not 2) harder than the former and would be a bit sandbagged for 12a.
Aug 13, 2008
I guess I can't comment on the original start since I haven't tried it. I've always used the newer direct start. I thought I finally was going to send this thing last Sunday but was denied again at the top. I was pulling that awkward exit move when I fell, ripping the gear just below my feet. When I finally hit the end of the rope I was back down at the bolt near the start!
Aug 12, 2008
Hey Ted, I think I might be getting weak and old, that's all. To do the slab and crack as one pitch with no falls took me about 5 days of work (and that's on toprope!). It's one challenging pitch. I think it is at least as hard as The Evictor. Maybe someone who has led it recently could correct me.
Aug 12, 2008
Brink, I think this is the first time I've heard you say a Bo-can route is harder than the grade given... Are you ok? :) PS - I have to give you back Jess' pack, sorry for the delay.
Aug 12, 2008
Hey Shuman, Good job on sending this rig! Did you really think the 1st pitch traverse was 12a? I've climbed a lot of slab routes and that is one of the most technical bits of climbing I have ever tried. It is at least 12a/b:)
Aug 11, 2008
- Nintendo
- No Fly Zone
Not a bad route objectively, but given the wealth of other options, anyone other than the most die-hard Ned-Head should look to the other classics available to climb. Also, this route name makes me think of nothing other than the real #NOFLYZONE: #nfz.
Apr 7, 2016
- Nobody's Home
My buddy Adam Brink and I managed to send this on lead last weekend via Englishman's Home. More folks should go for it. The whip is great, and you can finagle a purple Master cam about 15 ft before the anchor cutting the runout a bit shorter.
Sep 10, 2013
I was wondering when you succeeded in leading this, Topher. Very cool! Yes, that is correct: Domestic Abuse goes out the undercling and orangutans out right to the arete. On the FA in 1987 (100% from the bottom up, and yes, some good whippers cleaning lichen on the go...), I belayed at the arete. As to Nobody's Home, thanks for keeping the name. Having toproped this many times, I kept thinking "This would be a good ABC Headpoint" - meaning an elementary or introductory level headpoint, in the sense that you can fall a long distance but are unlikely to get hurt. Way to go! Has anyone else led this since you? Good Spectator Value, to be sure!
Oct 22, 2012
Thanks for the explanation, Topher! It sounds like an awesome addition! Kudos on the heady lead!
May 1, 2012
Regardless of who did it first or what it is called, it is a very cool and hard finish to either CCC or Englishman's Home. Good job on the lead, Topher!
May 1, 2012
Only 30 feet of new terrain, Chris, but it's a wild 30! I talked to Eric Doub (the name Nobody's Home was suggested by Eric, in fact) a while ago about it, and he said Domestic Abuse traverses the roof all the way out to the arete before going up on easier terrain to the Country Club anchor. Nobody's Home goes about halfway out the roof before going straight up to the Country Club anchor. I know the Nobody's Home headwall has been toproped for years by going out to the arete and then foot traversing back across the sloping ramp that is part of Nobody's Home, but I don't know of it being led that way. Anyone? Classic MP - soon the name, FA list, and ensuing thread will be longer than the new terrain on the climb....
May 1, 2012
I thought that the roof had been done in 1987, and called Domestic Abuse? FA Doub, Arran, Panjiller. Does Nobody's Home climb different terrain?
Apr 30, 2012
- Nuclear Winter
- One
- Pass Fail Option
This roof has some great moves and a wild lip. A few comments about gear and rope drag. Linking into this straight out of Final Exam is a great pitch, but the rope drag can be problematic. Once onto the slab after Final Exam, set a few pieces and drop a loop of rope to your belayer. Then you can go back on belay without the rope running through all of the gear on Final Exam to avoid that drag. Your rope will only be going through the pieces you placed on the slab. A green Alien is the best piece I found to protect the move up into the roof crack, and a green Camalot (0.75) protects the roof crack. The gear is good and the fall is clean -- I proved this several times before finally getting this thing clean! Also there is a new(ish) anchor about 10' up and right after pulling the roof. It is the top of "The Dropout Option" (12+, not on this site yet). You can lower to the ground from here with a 60m rope.
Jun 25, 2011
- Polyester Leisure Suit
Beta alert: seemed like a very long reach up and right from obvious, chalked-up hold; I couldn't get it and fell (I'm sure it would go that way, just need a little more reach and/or horsepower). Next try, I did another move up and left to a less obvious hold (layback), then reached right; seemed substantially easier that way. Not sure what is the "normal" way.
Aug 12, 2017
Attempted to top-rope this route on Saturday after leading the 5.6 pitch to the left. The remnants of the missing feature that fell off in 2013 is quite obvious to spot as a brown spot is left in its wake. Without this hold, the route is very difficult, and none of our team could get through the roof boulder problem. There seems to be a way to climb up and left out onto two horn-like features before launching to a prominent hold out towards the second bolt. We were too sauced to make the move though. Be careful of loose rock on the slab above the roof. I've seen large chunks come crashing down off of this area.
Oct 12, 2015
Climbed this route this morning without the "broken foothold". I don't know how the climb was before, but it did not feel significantly harder than 11b/c now. I did use other beta than described above. Instead of using the hold I just used the small "dish" to the right of the bolt.
Jul 12, 2013
This morning the foothold under the first bolt fell as I was following a friend up the route. We didn't try it a second time, but it looks like a significant change to the climb.
Jul 3, 2013
Fun roof moves that are over all to soon. The upper section of climbing after the roof is less than desired and has some lose rock!!! However, it's still fun and I would probably do it again, but it would not be my first choice.
Aug 25, 2009
The climbing above the roof, in my opinion isn't all that great. The crux moves are fun. It is possible to get some psychological pro in the wet crack before you clip the first bolt, but don't hope for much, and you would want to back clean it after clipping the bolt. You know how it is when your intimidated, you think weird things...ha. For a TR, climb the first pitch of the west face and move right at the top. It is possible to continue on to climb the Big Deal Pinnacle. I remember it being a bit crumbly and run out. Then, from there you could finish with the west face. I wouldn't do it again.
Sep 20, 2007
WOW! actually not so wow, I should have known I would get put in my place once again by the only honest ratings in Boulder Canyon! Castle Rock is keepin' it real Son.
Aug 22, 2007
I'd agree with 2 stars and 11b (I'm 6'2). This is a really cool climb - pumpy and weird - once you get it done it's not too bad the second time 'round. . . though going for the crux move out of the roof is a bit intimidating.
Oct 11, 2005
There's good crack at the base of the roof and positive holds out to the edge of the roof. Pulled this off on TR by swinging the right foot out and up onto a small ledge just past the middle of the roof, then pushed off opposing with the right hand over the left shoulder shifting my weight into the rock using the corner of a small block, then switching hands, reached again with the right hand for the corner of another small block higher. As Tony mentions your going from a horizontal position back to standing up vertical. Very weird move. Remember bruising the inside of my calf as it passed over the 1st bolt (as it protrudes about 2") doing the move.
Oct 4, 2002
- Queen is Dead, The
- Rebellion
- Replacement Killers, The
I pulled off most of the lefthand ear yesterday. The problem should still go though, possibly V12? I doubt harder than that.
May 10, 2010
Unfortunately, the left hand undercling that you go off to the right hand lunge finish is flexing muchly. Expect it to break shortly. Short lived problem.
Oct 11, 2009
- Route 66
Route 66! Aye, you better be ready to deal with & enjoy, just about all types of climbing on this old school, adventure classic -- everything from solid granite to stacked blocks to lichen, moss, & tree detritus. I've looked at this route for years and finally had the chance to climb it with a much stronger climber than myself today. To begin, we waded Boulder Creek up above our knees to get to the dry boulders at the base of the route where we harnessed and geared up. I chose to keep my now soaked La Sportiva Ghanda Guide boots on to climb and was very glad I did as the granite is hard and the cracks are wider. Bring it all from smallest Aliens to a #4 BD Camalot, you will use most if not all. Also bring a good nut tool, 'cause you will probably be doing some gardening. The climbing ranged from 5.5 mossy slab at the top to 5.9+ slot/wide crack physicality down low. Four half pitches, diverse and full focus one and all. While I was belaying, I looked down at the happy whitewater creek with a flyfisherman and thought +++ this is Colorado! As Kellen said: "I had a blast!"
Jul 5, 2017
- Skunk Crack
5.8 still feels like this, Bryan F. Only a bit more so. Everything just keeps getting harder.
Aug 21, 2017
The 1976 edition of High Over Boulder (Pat Ament and Cleveland McCarty) had this route at 5.8+. Back then, we thought that was pretty much what a 5.8+ felt like. Who knew?
Apr 4, 2015
Although this is a bit of an awkward route, I really enjoyed it. Squeezing as much of myself into the chimney worked for me. I know I didn't look very graceful though....
Mar 23, 2011
I left two quickdraws at the top of this route on the chains last week. If someone picks them up I would love to get them back. I forgot them because my partner fell and got hurt. Thanks, returning gear is good karma!
Nov 24, 2009
Friend Casey said, "nah, I don't want to picnic and climb at C.R. 'cause it is too greasy." I didn't know what he meant until trying this one, and now I do. Wow. Slick, like the guy said. Easier to second, as you can layback the first section with the slick feet, but if you are leading, it is tricky to layback and protect at the same time. For on-sight, 10a, I thought, but did 2nd lap following and maybe 9+ is ok for that. Definitely worth doing. And, there are now chains at the top of this, so no need to move over to top of Curving Crack for those chains.
Aug 28, 2009
Another Castle Rock sandbag? Hard to start and an awkward pig of a move higher up.
May 8, 2009
The start of this climb is somewhat slippery. Definately solid 5.9 crux.
Oct 1, 2002
Scott, I think you should try yoga. It makes it easier to extract your shoulder from your wider midsection. Be careful out there!
Sep 12, 2002
I was still mystified by all the zippers and pockets on my new $80 climbing pants when my partner yelled "off belay, good luck..." The first few feet of Skunk Crack is slicker then a Jiffy-Lube garage floor at closing time.Being able to torque myself into the handjam above the initial fingerlock felt tough but extracting my shoulder out of the wider midsection nearly required medical attention. Nothing like an old school 5.9 to start me back sportclimbing!
Sep 11, 2002
This short route offers a tricky opening sequence right off the ground. A crack inside a narrow groove widens for just a few inches which allows a tenuous two knucle deep finger lock for the left hand. The feet in the first two moves are vague and most folks use the crack for the right foot and stem/smear on the polished left face. 10' farther up a shallow, shoulder width, slightly inverted chimney must be overcome. Good pro here, but again a tricky sequence since its so tight, you can't see your feet, but a nice high right hand crack saves the day allowing you to pull through (I've seen climbers avoid this squeeze by pulling left over a lip to gain the easy ground). When this sequence is overcome, most people stop to catch their breath, I know I did. The remainder of the pitch is (5) and most parties go to the chains above curving crack to rap.
Aug 10, 2002
- Smokey the Bandit
- South Face
The Corinthian Vine P2 is probably a better option than traversing. It offers better climbing in my opinion. It's decently protected despite D'Antonio's "R" rating for that pitch. Protected by what seems to be a glued in copperhead.... It seems logical to fire up this corner/roof and then traverse into the remaining P3 of South Face. Or, instead of moving slightly left as for South Face, continue straight up a thin corner protected by a pin. Good line, good funk, OK gear to boot.
Jun 30, 2013
On pitch 1 when jamming the crack right before the traverse, something in that crack was hissing at me.
May 5, 2013
Did this today and it felt awfully hard. Harder than the 10a's I've done at Eldo. Also, why is that bolt even there? If you're going to add a bolt, might as well do it where it would help and not cause a big pendulum. Just my $0.02. I also felt the gear wasn't very obvious, small, and fairly run-out. Not for the new 5.9 leader.
Jun 27, 2012
I thought the route finding was tough after the 1st pitch, and I never thought anything was that run-out.
May 23, 2012
Climbed this today with a friend who suckered me into leading the second pitch. I enjoyed the climb but got really tweaked out about the traverse. That swing looked daunting, but the stretchy move is there. Really wished there was some pro below besides a sketchy notch (one piton could prevent a serious injury, but alas). Take your pick...run out or pendulum - but as far as the rest of the climb...amazing.
Jun 16, 2010
A great and confusing finish.... It seems that I could find many finishes with great variation in there difficulty. I found that route finding tough and interesting after (P1). Such a fantastic wall!! As the cold and darkness set in, we had to bail just 40ft from the summit because we took so long on the route finding provided how much time we had left of good sun and day light. So, we rapped out with a new found respect and interest in the many possibles of routes on the (2nd & 3rd) pitches. What a great, huge wall to play on. This January day was a tough one, but we had a great time!! A fantastic route that should be explored more!!!
Jan 31, 2010
Just led this route today. Took a 5 ft whiper on the first pitch crux when I was fumbling for a draw for the piton - shouldn't have, but it felt good to take another whipper on gear. Led the third pitch and thought the left crack (the upside down V) looked harder than the left facing crack on the right - so I went right. Well, I think I was wrong. I saw the lower traverse left, but then saw the bolt and thought that the "proper" traverse was a little higher up - and figured I'd come back again later for the lower traverse left. I got up into the pod above the bolt and had my left hand about 6" from the "good" hold and backed off because I thought the feet were sketchy. I then put together a new game plan went back at it again, only to back off again. The third time was the charm, back to the original game plan - a right gaston pulling hard to keep the hip in and a left reach for the visibly worn hand hold. The hold wasn't that good, but it was good enough to pull through the crux. Trust the feet, they are good enough. I was very relieved to get to the point and wrap a sling around for my second. Anyway, I have no clue what I did or how to rate the pitch, but after reading these comments and since there was a ton of lichen on it, I don't think I did the "normal" traverse and I don't I think it's a 5.9+ - but I could be wrong. I would love to get back for the lower traverse - it looked sweet. Oh yeah, the 3rd pitch has a nut on the ramp that my second couldn't get out - if someone gets it, of course, enjoy it and let me know how you got it out - I worked on it for 15 minutes on rappel to no avail. Anyone have a clue what I climbed?
Jul 12, 2008
I climbed this great route yesterday, it was an eye opener at the crux section. On the last pitch, instead of going right and finishing on the ramp, I wandered left and up and got caught on some slopey area. In the book it looked like there was a 8 variation that way. There was a big undercling that I used to continue left - I think the 8 section went strait up from there but don't know. I think I went too far left and then tried to finish up two different cracks - the left one had a medium bush/tree at the top near the big ledge. It seemed that this area doesn't get alot of traffic as there was dirt and a bit of rock exfoliation. Does anyone know if this is an upper pitch to another climb?
Jun 13, 2008
The first pitch crux (10a in Rossiter) seemed much easier than the traverse on the second pitch. I would say 5.9 (possibly R) is a good rating for the climb overall. That second pitch is scary!
Jul 14, 2007
Dear Mike McHugh, I can relate to what you wrote. When I look at some of the things I climbed and how I climbed them twenty years ago, it just scares the heck out of me. How did I ever live to see grandchildren? Isn't it funny that when we are young, with so much life ahead of us, that we take so many chances. Then, when we get older, and have less years left, that we take less chances and become so much more conservative in our climbing practices?
Apr 25, 2005
Did the route today, and all I have to say is the traverse is a good 5.9 lead to do if you think you're ready for a 5.10 lead. It'll certainly put things in perspective. 10a seems right, with solid 9 for the rest of that pitch. Re protecting the traverse: there is a good TCU placement (like Metolius #0 or #1, can't remember) under the small undercut that's at waist level when you're at the stance to begin crossing. It's a good hold too, but I found I was a lot happier using it as placement than as a hold. And I know it's good because it held my fall as I was trying to work out that sandbag traverse. I would recommend that placement to anyone -- unless you're into a "20 footer on a good nut".
May 18, 2003
Fred, The 10c variation you mention is the 2nd pitch of Corinthian Vine. The first pitch of this route is the Boot Lead. The 3rd pitch is rated 12c/d and is bolted. I agree that Corinthian Vine's 2nd pitch makes a great variation to the South Face. When I did it, I combined it with the first pitch of the South Face (still not that long of a pitch). My partner then traversed left to rejoin the regular South Face. There are three different ways to do this traverse. Bill
Jul 25, 2002
I don't know the name of this variation, but there is a fun and interesting 10c roof/dihedral about half way down the ledge on the first pitch, that leads to anchors above Boot Lead & Close To The Edge. These anchors provide a way to rap down and, better still, TR those 2 excellent (and hard!) routes. Also, the face to the right of this variation is another interesting option. The Falcon Guide suggest 10d for this, but it felt harder to me (esp. comparing it to the 10c), more like 11b at least. The gear is sparse, a single button head protecting the tricky crux high on the face being the only pro above the ledge.
Jul 25, 2002
Steve, I couldn't agree with you more. With regard to this particular route, moving/adding the bolt would completely change its character - it might still be a 5.9, but it wouldn't be Jackson's Wall Direct. While the upper crux isn't what I would call "well-protected", it's not a death fall by any means. I'm sure I'm biased in this regard because of my perspective. The "rush" I get from climbing comes when I am tested on multiple fronts - climbing ability, ability to quickly place reliable protection, route-finding, and perhaps most importantly, judgment and common sense. The routes I aspire to lead are ones that present all of these challenges in varying degrees - an approach that doesn't always equate to pure climbing difficulty. Even if I never have the ability or nerve to climb them, it's nice to know that 7 Arrows, Jules Verne, The Lion, and many others are still around in something resembling their original state - it's what keeps me coming back.
Feb 21, 2002
I too thought that the initial "crux" moving out of the crack and on to the ledge was easier than 5.10a. I said 5.8+ as well. My shorter partner disagreed. On the upper crux, the traverse past the bolt, I felt the move was 5.9+, but was insecure enough to be ennervating at any grade of difficulty. I mover up, clipped the bolt, then moved back down and did the move. I and my partner both agreed that while this move was not terribly difficult, that it seemed slick and a little off-balance. It seemed more likely that you might slip from it than fall for lack of skill. BTW, I am 5'10" and have exceptionally long arms. Dianne is 5'5", I believe. Hopefully this does not start some huge flame war.
Nov 6, 2001
Now, Mr. Lang, I'm no city slicker, but I know my way around a brain teaser. Are you tellin' me that 'with a simian wingspan' the move is 5.9, and for shorter folks, who can't reach across to the good left edge, it is...5.9? C'mon now, you're a dodgy coot! Well, it'll get upgraded soon, good thing I led it while it was still 5.9. 5.10 is hard. Am I back to budding? nuts.
Aug 14, 2001
Kreighton, you must have been a lawyer in a past life :) I haven't been cross-examined in a while. As noted in a previous comment, I'm happy to leave the grade of the whole climb as 5.9. That said, and since you asked for it: P2 will be 5.9 if you have a simian wingspan. If you have a normal wingspan and are out of shape like me, the pitch will still be 5.9, but it will feel a whole hell of a lot like some 10a climbs you may have done, with sparse and finicky protection throughout. A budding 5.9 trad leader is likely to be uncomfortable.
Aug 13, 2001
Geez Darin, is that P2 5.9 or 5.9+?? Inquiring minds want to know! Interestingly, the lower traverse appeared to have two options: traverse on the heavily chalked holds with bad feet (hard, I think those are sucker holds) or higher up with feet on the chalked holds and thin hands. If you have a long reach, you might be able to reach from the bomber right hand over to the left edge, but it was a balancy move for short lil' me. The bolt, if you're a scaredy cat, will protect the 5.9 moves. Just climb up, clip it with a long runner, and then back down and do the traverse. This works best with double ropes, but there is pretty much no gear for the left rope except for a shitty nut placed in the worst of the sucker holds. I thought P2 of this route was tough, a bit hard to protect and "definitely 5.9"...whatever...YMMV
Aug 13, 2001
Thanks for bursting my bubble, Steve - and I thought I was just a better climber than I was when I did the route the first time a few years ago. Actually, I was perfectly happy to keep the rating at 9, and wasn't even aware of the "new" 10a rating until I looked at someone else's BC guidebook. There are still plenty of good and honorable sandbag 9's left, though. 5.9 is a bit ephemeral anyway - could be anything from 5.8+ to 10c. The only thing more uncertain is "easy third class".
Jul 13, 2001
Would grade this as 5.10, the crux on P2 with its dicy traverse with the potential of a pendulum or long wipper is a good 5.10, rest of that pitch is 5.8+ Doug B
Jul 9, 2001
P2 variation: instead of going right into the left-facing flake and then up to the traverse(s), go directly up from the belay to get on a good ledge (left of flake). Above is an upside-down V cracks in the slightly past vertical face. Climb the left crack (way thin... RPs and small Aliens) and some face holds to the left of that. The crux is at the top of the V, pulling over the bulge (.10+?). This ramp goes to a ~.8 crack (with crappy bush in the middle) for about 15 feet to the normal belay. I am not sure what this variation is, but it is difficult and fun (please confirm). I think is a more direct option than risking the scary pendulums....
Jun 26, 2001
Rossiter rates this a 10a in the more recent BC guide. Interestingly, he puts the 10a crux at the initial traverse out of the hand crack, where I indicated "P1 crux (5.8)". OK, maybe the move was harder than 8, but I'm not sure its 10a. I might go along with 10a on the upper pitch, though. Also, I noted that the bolt on top of the right-leaning ramp was "off route". This is only partially true. It is off route if you take the 9+ traverse in the middle of the ramp and climb to the pin. It is right on route if you climb to the top of the ramp and then make a 10a traverse to the same point. Apparently there used to be an old star-drive located at this spot, replaced with the current bomber bolt a few years ago by a civic-minded Neptune employee.
Jun 5, 2001
- South Face Direct
- Standard Bulge
Wonderful line, didn't look as fun as it was! Get on this.
Aug 1, 2016
There is also a sit start to this coming in from the start of The Citadel that goes at V7.
May 1, 2012
Video: youtube.com/watch?v=mz5wqWf…
Feb 4, 2012
- Sting, The
We climbed this today and finished on the crux moves of Atlas Shrugged. Not sure if this is correct but if done this way, wouldn't it make this 5.11d? Either way, good crux moves on this route into awesome crux moves of Atlas Shrugged. Edit: clearly the way we climbed it is not the correct line, although it makes for a very good route.
Aug 21, 2014
- Stingay
- Storming the Castle
Not a squeeze job in the slightest. Super fun route! A little heady around the third bolt with that ledge looming beneath you. I blew it and landed right on it. Totally mellow fall though! If you get nervous about that, don't be. Just enjoy the fun, techy climbing.
Aug 2, 2016
What a great route. Excellent face moves down low and then a superb balancy crux to arête climbing. A worthy addition! You could top rope it, but...why? Leading this route will put a smile on your face!
Nov 16, 2013
This is a great route! And reasonably protected. It's too bad you kinda have to start on Curving Crack, but that doesn't make it a squeeze job; the rest of the route has spectacular, independent climbing. Very worthwhile addition. I can't believe I never climbed it before. I do wonder about all the hammer (?) marks all over one of the middle bolts??
Nov 4, 2013
Tried it today fanlly on TR! And got worked! Lol. Great line. Wild blunt arête and face climbing.
Sep 6, 2012
Great sport route requires thought and precision. Not over bolted or squeezed like may Boulder Canyon sport routes. I look forward to losing weight and trying to lead.
Mar 27, 2012
To the above, the obvious retort is "maybe so, but nobody bolted Gill Crack." For my own part, I can see this one going either way. The lead is different that a TR because you have to get stances to clip on lead, whereas you can just slap away on TR. However, I can see it feeling a bit close to Curving Crack too. Too bad it's not a few feet further away such that it would be evaluated more on it's own merit, as the climbing is actually pretty novel and interesting. But where it is is where it is and the historical precedent of the climbs surrounding it leave it in a compromised position. The climbing is all tension and slopers. Mid-5.11 sounds about right. I don't think 11a nor 11d.
Oct 15, 2011
It is NOT a squeeze job or whatever. It is a pretty good route, pretty well bolted. Does not need any more or any less bolts. Definitely a good addition to Castle Rock. "One can easily toprope this line".... I am sorry, but this is dumb. One can easily toprope Gill Crack, but many people actually lead it or boulder.
Sep 13, 2011
I agree, super fun line that definitely adds to Castle Rock. If it were only a toprope line, I never would have been interested in it.
May 26, 2011
Great route. My partner used the arete to move past the second bolt and then straight up past it second go round. Awesome sloper slapping up and super crimp pulling. Short but sweet. IMHO, NOT a squeeze job at all as you can't use either crack to protect this climb on lead in any way. If you want to argue that it should have been top roped only, fine, but how many people go out looking to TR stuff? I see no problem here.
Mar 13, 2010
Did not get a chance to climb this line today but saw it for the 1st time and thought it looked great!! I can't wait to climb it and it looks like it has plenty of room to be a great line on its own. Looks like fun. Nice work!!
Jan 31, 2010
While possibly "a sqeeze job" at first site, this route climbs extremely well. The bolts in no way impede on routes to the right or left. It looks to be about 5.8 but certainly feels like 11b once you're on it. I was glad to clip each bolt, especially the last one. A worthy addition; put in by a guy who has been a silent steward of Castle Rock for some time now.
Aug 12, 2009
I agree with the poster above that these bolts are placed in extremely poor taste. This is a squeeze line placed adjacent to ultra-classic clean lines pioneered in the early 1960s. These bolts are immediately left of Curving Crack and the route name does not match the write-up above. Will the person who placed these bolts please take it upon themselves to carefully remove these bolts without damaging the rock any more than they already have? That would show some integrity.
Aug 29, 2008
The actual Headline is the route/project that branches left of Deadline and is probably 5.14. Maybe a renaming of whatever the 5.11 is would be in order?
Mar 10, 2008
Has Headline actually been redpointed yet?
Dec 14, 2007
Access issues? what!? in Boulder Canyon? you gotta be kidding. It's Boulder Canyon, land of the bolted cracks!!! Yeah!!! Welcome to Boulder Canyon!!!!
Aug 22, 2007
What is the bolted route directly to the right of Comeback Crack? It goes up maybe 4 or 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor to the best of my recollections
Jun 25, 2007
- Subterranean Homesick Blues
The 12a slab crux on the second pitch can be bypassed by traversing right, moving up to a headwall, and underclinging back left. Fun moves, but not recommended on lead. Done this way, the pitch becomes solid 5.11 with the crux at the second bolt. Lots of great moves on this pitch, but it needs more cleaning.
Jun 26, 2006
- Surface Tension (aka Two)
Continue up the sloping arete left to the apex for the "surface tension extension". Fun, big-ish move at the end.
Nov 28, 2010
The grade's the same.
Nov 28, 2010
I ran down to the boulder to try Surface Tension, the starting holds had been busted off and laying right under the route. Bummer! Maybe it will still go, but it's way difficult now.
Jun 2, 2009
Start has broken as of two weeks ago.... I just saw the damage, sorry, all the parts of the start are gone, no more glue wahoo!
May 16, 2009
- Times Past
- Tongo
Fun route but not recommended for a 5.10 leader unless you are comfy bouldering. There is a way for short people to do this. Ok, beta spew here for the vertically challenged, because of its unprotected start.... Use the amazingly good left foot, a higher right hand hold, and your inner thigh muscles to slowly elevate to good crimps (left hand) right of all that chalk on the rail. Phew, now breathe and continue to the bolt via the hand traverse, with spotter below you. :)
May 27, 2011
David Goldstein, the reason that it's done in 2 pitches is because someone (Captain Publicservice?) put in a bolt station there about 15 years ago.
May 6, 2010
I think I know where the name, Tongo, came from. In the sixties Hanna-Barbera had a kid's entertainment hour on TV called The Banana Splits. A regular feature was a show called Danger Island. Whenever the tree-swinging, Tarazan-like, hero came to the rescue everyone would cry out: "Uh oh, Tongo!". The hero's name was really Chongo, but google reminded me that most of us heard is as Tongo. It would be really cool to find out from Pat Ament where the name came from. This route sorta makes me feel like a tree-swinging chimp.
Sep 10, 2009
The climb is probably soft for 5.11- if you are of average height or taller, but the bottom section is hard for shorter people (<5'6"). This climb is probably a 5.11a modern sport grade or old-school 10d.
May 23, 2006
Ben Mottinger said, "If you do just the first pitch, it is straight fwd 10a to the chains." I strongly diagree. If you're a 10a climber you don't want to be leading this pitch. Compared to the 10a sport and mixed routes being put up these days, the first pitch of Tongo is on another planet in terms of difficulty. Although technically more difficult, I had an easier time leading P2 than P1. Speaking as a tall person with no recent experience as a short person, I would think that the start of P1 and the crux on P2 would be very difficult for shorter than average people (e.g. most women), although thin fingers might make up for lack of reach on P2. For all you Crack n Up fans (there must be some?), I placed a very good beefy Crack'n Up above the obvious brass nuts to proctect the moves off the ledge on P2. It made me feel better. I placed 4 pieces at the crux (after reading of Bill Wright's winger) including a tipped out #1 Camalot in the "hole" at the roof. A #2, if it fits though the opening, would be better. Also got a very good aluminum HB offset way high, giving a toprope at the crux. Question: How hard is the left start to P1? Looks real hard to me. Feeling old suddenly.... Looked in my old guidebooks and see that the first (and only other) time I did Tongo was in October '77, my first semester here in grad school.
Apr 3, 2005
I, and I think most people, actually start on "After Forever" (#32 in Rossiter's book). Make a move or two up up the slab just left of the start for "Atlas Shrugged". Then pop up and left (harder for short people) to handrail left along a 10' long ledge and then mantel up at it's left side. At this point you can clip the bolt (1st pro on the pitch). Climb straight up to the fixed pin on "Tongo" and then continue to angle up and right with that route. This is a very enjoyable route!Don't forget to TR "Atlas Shrugged" now that you have the rope up. You can get a directional for that up high with a med tcu, or just go for the big swing if you fall.
Apr 25, 2003
If you do just the first pitch, it is straightforward 10a to the chains.
Apr 14, 2003
I tried to link this route as one pitch since the second pitch was so short. I put in what I thought was a bomber red Alien straight up underneatth the roof and then couldn't figure out how to do the crux. If you know the trick this move isn't that bad and it is really just one move or two, but it was too much for me to onsight and I pitched off. I pulled the Alien and fell about 30+ feet (missing the ledge thankfully and I'm not sure how I missed it) and was caught by the draw clipped to the first belay anchors. It was quite exciting when the piece blew, but I didn't hit anything at all - steep up there.
Aug 30, 2002
The first pitch is S. The second pitch is about 20' long and might be the softest 11a trad pitch in the canyon. Not sure why it isn't done as 1 pitch; maybe because of risk of hitting ledge after rope stretch. There are chains at the first belay and large rap hangers at the second. Atlas Shrugged can be top roped from the chains at the end of p1.
Aug 29, 2002
- Tourist Extravagance
This used to be a fun little pitch of aid back in the day. I'd like to add a shout out to Bob Sandefer who was my instructor back in 1971 when I took the Colorado Mountain Club climbing class. This is the only route I know of with his name on it, but he climbed many obscure routes back in the '60s without recording them. Bob had a prodigious knowledge of little known (at the time) climbing areas and left only an occasional fixed pin in the cracks to remind us of his many ascents.
Jan 12, 2017
This is an awesome little route deserving of more attention. Similar in style, albeit much harder, to the "first" pitch of CCC. I'm not sure if it has lost holds since the FFA, but it's definitely 5.13 in its current state. I'd call the opening boulder V8 or V9. It involves a tricky stab to a mono and then a creative gaston/thumb catch. This sequence will be very hard for the short. The upper half of the pitch consists of fun 5.12 finger crack climbing. Bring a single set to 0.75 and a few small wires for the crack portion. Move right (not left) at the top of the crack to an anchor on Radio Armada. It would be easy to work the opening boulder problem on toprope from the anchor atop "pitch one" of CCC with a few directionals.
Nov 13, 2016
- Trainspotting
This is a really fun line that should not be missed. I feel it does not get the attention that it deserves since it's located next to one of the hardest most classic lines in Boulder Canyon. A friend and myself worked on this problem for a little while today and found it to be a technical, powerful, steep and overall entertaining problem with a very committing finishing top-out. I plan to go finish this one soon and I encourage others to go check this hog out!!! BRING LOTS OF PADS AND SPOTTERS!!! THE LANDING IS ROUGH!!!
Aug 25, 2009
- Victim of Circumstance
- Water World
The pro on this is not textbook. Safe lead for people well into the grade, but it is not the sort of thing to be pushing oneself on.
Jul 28, 2012
- West Face
I led the first pitch yesterday and found it quite enjoyable. This was my wife's first lead belay and her sister's first climb. Perfect route for a beginner to follow. The rock seems mostly solid. I didn't find any loose pieces, though I'm very used to climbing loose rock from years of climbing at Pinnacles (California). I think there might be one move of 5.6 on the regular start, though I doubt I could really discern the difference from 5.5, so I'll defer to the crowd on the rating. The bolts and chains were solid. Gear placement on the pitch was pretty straightforward. I did come up with a booty piece (someone left a nut about 3/4 of the way up which I used on the way up, and it came out easily when I cleaned the pitch).
Nov 5, 2017
Got caught in the storm this afternoon and left a handful of items on West Face. Two slings and two carabiners - one set at the top, one set in the middle notch (made it into three pitches). I also left my shoes at the base and would love to have them back! Relatively new La Sportiva Finales, probably right at the base of the crag. Contact pacspake@gmail.com if found.
Jul 21, 2017
Found a cam about 3/4 of the way up the first pitch on Saturday 6/3; PM me if it was yours.
Jun 6, 2017
I'd echo Charles' questions about the route. I did it in three pitches, and on the last pitch, you are rewarded with multiple options up. There is a chimney which is probably the 5/6 way. An offwidth that popped out my shoulder and a crack in the left with some interesting moves that is certainly harder than 6. It's weird to discuss in depth 3 sections of no more than 12 feet of climbing, but I would also be curious about the official way (chimney at right, I'm guessing?) and the ratings of the others. Specifically, that damn OW. -- ALSO -- There are no rap-rings (that I could find), and the walkoff kind of sucks, because it's more of a downclimb. If you don't think you can do 5.4 moves in reverse, maybe plan on burning some gear. Edit to add: looks like the route goes significantly to the right of where I was. Maybe that explains all the lichen....
Aug 8, 2016
Did in 4 pitches (to true summit) to minimize rope drag and communication issues. Good pro at every pitch. P1. Up to bolted anchor - simple 5.5 with ample pro. P2. Up left just past the tower on the right, good anchor stance to the left of small pine tree. P3. This is where it got confusing - we found ourselves looking up at chimney to the right, v-slot above and crack to the left. None of the past descriptions indicated which line to follow. Ended up doing zig zag, between the v-slot and left onto face and crack. Slot felt like the crux. Anchor where leveled out above. P4. Up the short crack on the right to false summit, then 4th class to the summit. Anyone have ratings specific to each option going left of the the tower and past the pine tree? 1) Far left crack. 2) V-slot. 3) Chimney to the right. Thanks!
Jul 18, 2016
Yep, gotta watchout for them snakes!
Oct 26, 2015
I lead this on October 24th 2015, and it seemed like a really nice route. As others have said, there are a couple of places where you can get a little off route, but if you generally hang right without going over anything too hard, it's not bad. I did not notice the loose rock that others had mentioned. I also didn't notice any snakes; however, I have seen snakes in the area, so it's probably worth keeping an eye out.
Oct 26, 2015
Did this route yesterday and it's definitely a decent climb if you're still fairly new to trad. I took a few friends up with me who don't climb much on gear, and it was a fun climb for the grade. I'd definitely recommend breaking this up into three pitches and building a belay right behind the "tower" above pitch one anchors, otherwise rope drag is awful. We didn't go directly to the summit, but there's a great tree to belay off of on the flat north side. The summit can be still reached from there with a small scramble around the back side. The downclimb to the rap anchor isn't bad, just take your time (head towards the road). You'll see the tree with chains around it about 25-30ft down.
May 29, 2014
Started in the chimney and it wasn't too bad. Giving it a higher rating, because the second pitch is pretty stout for a 5.5. All in all, fun route. The "walkoff" on the back is more of a 5.4 downclimb. For those who do not enjoy down climbing, on my way down I did see a tree with a chain on it about 15 feet down the back side. Requires a little down climbing to get to the tree, but then after that you can rap down if you so choose.
Sep 8, 2013
When you get to the top of the first pitch (past the bolts at the tree and up through the slot, to the perch behind the small tower); look right and you'll see a short hand/fist crack facing you in a dihedral. It's not listed anywhere, but it takes pro well, is relatively clean, probably goes at 5.7, and also takes you to the summit via another interesting and wandering line. Move your belay down below this crack onto a lower perch and try this crack. It's a fun variation if you've already done the regular second pitch. *But beware of the beachball-size boulder teetering on that perch. It's kinda wedged in, but it definitely wobbles and would wreak havoc on anything/anyone below.**
Apr 14, 2013
Not a bad route for a somewhat cold day when you are in Nederland and have little opportunity to climb elsewhere and there's some beer to be drunk. The hardest part was the snow covered downclimb.
Apr 23, 2011
Not a bad beginner route because it offers some nice variety. Usually I do it in two pitches with no problem. With a 60 meter it is easy to reach the notch belay without too much rope drag. From there it is a relatively short pitch to the top. Note that the descent is not as trivial as the initial description would indicate. (Especially in the dark!) Do some route finding (trend north) and a few tricky downclimbing moves (no harder than 4th class or you are off route) and locate the rappel tree with anchor chains. Easy rappel to the ground from here and short walk back to the base.
Jun 17, 2009
Definitely not classic, but a fun multi-pitch route to take newer climbers up. When I climbed it, instead of going strait up the groove, I opted for the spicier (5.7?) line that ascends the face directly right of the groove to the right of the true start to the West Face - this alternative doesn't protect as easily. I broke the whole route into 3 pitches to try and avoid some of the apparently unavoidable rope drag. The down-climbing to get off the top could be a little sketchy for a new climber or someone who is uncomfortable with exposure. All in all a fun climb.
Apr 29, 2009
To descend, walk north from the middle of the large level area on the north side of Castle Rock below the summit to third class terrain. Find the slab gently downsloping to the east; at the edge of the cliff, find a vertical pinch about 20 inches high; if you look carefully, there is a gap behind it maybe 2 inches wide, just wide enough to fish a piece of webbing through. This can be used as a rappel anchor. From here, you can rappel directly to the eastern tree on the ledge about 60 feet below, or lower your partner(s) and downclimb. Alternatively, downclimb the cliff and slab following the wall on your right, make a left turn around a 4 inch tree, downclimb five feet of vertical rock, and get to the middle tree on a large ledge with three large trees. Proceed east along the ledge about 25 feet to the eastern most tree which has an old rusty rappel anchor chain around it (probably best to backup this chain with webbing). Rappel 95 feet to easy walkoff terrain. Alternatively, you can end the rappel at about 70 feet, and then downcliimb the last 25 feet to easy walkoff terrain. Have fun, Tom Stocker Aug. 4, 2008
Jun 30, 2008
Climbed this route today, and we couldn't clean a cam on the 5.7+ variation of the first pitch. It's an old school Wild Country Friend about a half inch in size. It walked itself deep into a crack and over-cammed, I spent a half hour trying to get it then lowered my partner who also spent a half hour trying to clean it. It's practically an antique and I doubt anyone would want to use it, but I'd appreciate it back. As for the climb, it's not bad, quite a bit of loose rock though, and I would call the variation we did barely 5.6 not 5.7+.
Sep 8, 2007
Not a great route but not a horrible one either. I personally feel like it would be a great beginner route. On the second pitch (relative I know) head up the wider crack with the choke stone and not the thin crack that goes straight up. Also, from the notch above what is the obvious second pitch, it is possible to head up a couple chimneys and some random face moves to make the climb end on the summit proper. This is probably off route but it puts you on the summit as opposed to the traditional end of the route (a ledge short of the top). A great night time climb, preferably when it's pouring rain.
Apr 18, 2007
Deceptively hard for the rating. In general it is no more than 5.2 or so, but there are some dicey moves on each pitch that raise the average rating to 5.5. In particular, route finding off the first belay is interesting. The protection is there, but it won't be real comforting for a beginning leader. P3 features either an exposed, runout slab, a grunt chimney, or an interesting off-width.
Jul 5, 2006
I'm a beginning trad leader and thought it was a good climb. Tons of good placements. Did it in 2 pitches, p1 to bolts. Lots of rope drag with the long p2 - it sets up well for 3 short pitches. If you're bringing up noobs, keep in mind the nontrivial downclimb. I ended up lowering my second.
May 17, 2006
I did some research online and found out that rattlers can live as high as 10000 ft. and that it was common seeing them in the fall. I guess he was headed home for the winter.If it was a bull snake he sure did a good job of sounding like one big pissed off rattlesnake!! We have kicked around several ideas even a bird dropping the thing on the route. Thanks for the input, After this experience I think anything is possible....JC
Nov 1, 2005
Also being serious, are you sure it wasn't a bull snake, they can live at higher elevations and try to mimic rattlesnakes...
Nov 1, 2005
Dear AC, October is prime rattlesnake season at Castlewood Canyon, but I am surprised to learn that they are still active twelve miles up Boulder Canyon!
Nov 1, 2005
Did the 5.7+ route in the picture. We climbed it 2 days ago. I was the 3rd person up and while at the belay the 2nd almost got bit by a rattlesnake!!! In late October on the West Face of the Castle two pitches up a rattlesnake. Can anyone explain this? Wildlife Alert: super pissed off rattlesnake in the dark chimney above the 7+ in this picture!!!! Beware until first hard freeze!!!No I'm not kidding.
Oct 31, 2005
One of the crappiest climbs I have ever done...if you want to waste your time feel free but the canyon has a lot better to offer!
Sep 15, 2005
Climbed this route yesterday, very fun. I am a beginning leader, and I have to agree with the previous comment about loose rock, etc. This is not a real friendly beginner lead. We did the route in 3 pitches, which seemed to work well. Belayed at the tree and at the ledge in the notch. At one point I grabbed a seemingly bomber flake, and felt it move... I have climbed 5.6's that felt easier.
May 17, 2004
There is a good line between West Face and PLS up the obvious cracks and through a small roof. Same belay at the rings.
May 8, 2004
- West Face, Direct Start
- Catacombs, The
- Cenotaph Crag
- 5.9 Crack Right of 5.8 Crack
- Apparition
Replaced remaining bolts with 1/2" hardware, and a new anchor
Nov 16, 2017
I think this is 11a, but the crux is short and near the top. Lower, the route is easier but still hard 5.10.
Sep 21, 2014
Not 11a. Hard though. Balancy and strenuous. I replaced the two bolts on this about a year ago. Also took out the pin that was hiding a perfect purple Metolius. The top anchors must be seen to be believed.
Aug 7, 2012
- Dead Tree Route
- Ethereal
This is more fun than the other 5.9 at the cliff.
Sep 21, 2014
- Five Eight Crack
I don't think this deserves a bomb, but it is not great. Maybe a good warm-up for the crag, but it is not a destination climb. The crux is near the top, and the rest felt about 5.7 in difficulty.
Sep 24, 2014
- Flaked Out
- Going Down In it
I top roped this, and I saw no gear placements at the bottom as is described above. The climbing is kind of fun, but the route is very short.
Sep 21, 2014
- Going Down On It
- Phaedra
There is new 1/2" hardware on the bottom three pieces. This route is awesome now! It got cleaned up a bit and the old bolts (buttons) removed/replaced. THREE bomber bolts now lead to a few small pieces in the upper crack. Super safe and fun climb! PG-13 at worst and about mid-5.11! I'd give it 3 stars personally.
Nov 16, 2017
- Phantasm
Now this has 1/2" hardware with a new anchor. It feels more like 5.11- these days.
Nov 16, 2017
- Right to Life
Some not-so-great gear, to say the least. Not something you'd send a newbie trad leader up on, by any means.
Feb 29, 2016
Others called this route "dirty" in the past. It is not very dirty right now. I agree with the "off camber" comment though. The crux is near the top but only a few moves in length.
Sep 21, 2014
- Stairway to Purgatory
- Up Above It
- Cenotaph Spire
- Center Crack (assumed name)
Not the real name. Also, Emma's last name should be Salmon, not Watson.
Mar 13, 2016
- Cracked (assumed name)
Did this climb this evening. It is pretty darn dirty. Lots of mouse poop and stuff in the crack. That being said, it wasn't terrible. There is a great view from the top! Could be a fun when it cleans up. Good jams at the top, but it's short.
May 25, 2016
Not the name.
Mar 13, 2016
- Fur Face
- Harebell
This is a fun climb, but it is awkward below the second bolt. The holds here are small and the move committing. I think it may feel harder than 10- for some. I saw a new sequence I will do at the crux if I ever do it again.
Sep 24, 2014
- Lest You Be Judged
- Poor Judgment (aka Poor Jamesias)
- Cob Rock
- Aid Crack
I find that this climb is somewhere in the lower 5.11 grade. Way too much fun, but I jumped on it without any guide for a flash attempt and ended up projecting it, and it should have been well within my limits. Pro is very tricky. My blue TCU popped out. But overall, a very fun climb.
Sep 19, 2012
Good line to practice clean aid (duh). A camhook helps get through the crux about 15 feet up. For a nice 2nd and 3rd pitch, you can link with the the first bit of the second pitch of Night Vision up to the two pitons and then follow up East Crack to a good belay, then fire for the summit. I found a hook very useful on the 2nd pitch below the small roof. C2, C2+ for the first pitch, C1-C2 for the rest. No gear bigger than a #3 Camalot.
Aug 21, 2011
After sending Gill Crack about a month ago, I thought 10d finger crack would not be such a big deal, but I was wrong. This route is HARD. Crux is 12-15ft up, and feet are much less than desired. Pro is not easy, but a lot of possibilities exist.
Jul 21, 2010
Went here today to practice aid (nuts and cams only), and it was gorgeous. Even though it was always in the shade, the bottom of the route was dry and I was fine with themals and a jacket. Check it out if the warmth sticks around.
Jan 19, 2009
The route is basically over after the first 18 feet, in fact there is a perfect no hands rest before the upper crux which isn't a give me, but you need to get past those initial 18 feet regardless, right Mr. Mills?
Nov 18, 2008
This route does not lend well to larger hands...I have kind of a meat hook syndrome, so "tips" becomes very literal. My friend can lock into secure jams most of the time on this where as once I leave the ground I feel like I am twisting the hell out of my fingernails and getting no purchase whatsoever. The route is essentially over once you are about 18 feet up in my opinion. There is FAN TASTIC climbing above, but compared to the section you've just forced your way up the top half seems 5.9-, even going straight up rather than bear-hugging with the right edge of Huston.
Sep 25, 2008
Nice line. This route seems to be finger width dependent. Those folks with skinny fingers will find the jams solid and trustworthy. The meatier-fingers might have a bit more trouble with them jams.
Jun 27, 2004
Easily one of my favorites. I've done this about four times now and don't see getting tired of it. The gear is great if you're good at placing it. I can sew it up and still have everything bigger than a blue Alien. I've never needed RPs on it and only use one medium to small nut. It works if you wait till after your fingers are done using the placements before stuffing gear in them. A good challenge for the grade. Doing the .10a thin crack up the face makes an excellent 2nd pitch.S
Jun 16, 2004
First 15' is indeed pretty stiff for 10+, but maybe accurate if comparing to some polished pinscarred route in the Valley. Was it Church Bowl Tree, Matt, the "valley's greasiest climb"? Too chickenshit to lead, I toproped and placed gear. Bomber and adequate gear can be found, but not so obvious. Strong climbers at that grade should not have trouble placing appropriate gear. excellent balancy fingercrack. Someday i would like to combine with East Crack...
Jul 21, 2003
Agreed that the lower section is rather 11ish. The pro is solid, although strenuous to place in spots. And speaking from experience, a black Alien and a #2 RP will hold a fall here.
Jul 18, 2003
Well, I haven't done a lot of hard granite crack climbing in the upper .10/.11 range, but compared to everything ELSE I've climbed in that range, this felt way harder than any .10d I've ever been on. For that matter, it even felt harder than the .11's I've been on. The start was pretty cruxy, but even more so was this funky section just after getting established with a piece after the start. The jams were like flared slopers and the moves with the feet were strenuous, to say the least. After that it seemed pretty straightforward until the top, which was the easiest of 3 cruxes to me. Oh, and the gear is bomber if you place well, and are confident on smaller stuff like RPs. Overall an excellent climb
Jul 18, 2003
The upper 10d crux felt much easier to me than the start. A previous comment said the bottom felt like 11 if the hand crack was avoided. I would agree with that statement.
Jul 18, 2003
This was my first climb in boulder canyon and I felt it was one of the coolest finger cracks around. the crux is full on tips jamming(possible 11a)and actually took good gear. the falcon guide book gives it the "s" rating, which I totally diasagree with. Great finger crack!!!
Jun 27, 2003
I know that the "crux" is almost certainly different during a lead, but for me (on toprope) the hardest moves felt like they were right at the top, where the crack became a little too narrow to jam. The lower moves seemed pretty straightforward.
Jan 1, 2003
I would call this 11- the first 15 feet, if you stay out of the hand crack to the left. Feet are tricky and and gear placement is strenuous. Also, I thought the gear was was limited about 15 feet up, just before the climbing eases a bit, so be careful if you are pushing it.
Jun 24, 2002
8/30/2001. An excellent line, although aided extensively by the notion of the pinscars on the route, which decreases the star rating I am sure. Be confident on hanging while scoping for gear on this one, or you may take those whippers on the small rp's. Sustained climbing with adequate protection. Before the final push place a small cam, or funky nut, as high as possible (by good laybacking fingers). This crack is very nice, with many great feet on the face, just look closely, and watch the polished crack with the feet a little dicey.... overall I would rate it 2 stars as well. Enjoyed..
Aug 30, 2001
- Brownies In The Basin
While some might think that is a bummer that someone removed a bolt, other people don't appreciate the retro-bolting of an existing line. Not sure who did it, but in my mind, the removal was justified by the line's previous history and such action should be more or less expected when someone plunks a bolt into a documenteed pre-existing line without some sort of consensus or agreement of the FA party.
Jul 6, 2009
Hi Guys, Someone removed the lowest bolt so this is no longer a sport climb. Please update the description. Kind of a bummer for climbers who are trying to break into trad by honing our skills on sport routes. Thanks, Ben
Jul 2, 2007
The first hanger is still MIA. It is a bit strangely bolted, but I want to go back and do it to the top, on gear the whole way. Or, I'm thinking it'd be a tough elmiminate to climb direclty up the bolt line, offrouting all the big stuff out R.
Jun 20, 2007
I just climbed this on Sunday, not knowing what it was. I led it as one long pitch (160') to the top, veering right to join trad route with occasional fixed gear. I thought it was great and felt like 5.10. The first hanger was missing, but cams work just as well. I was drawn to the route more by the crack above the slung horn than by the bolted face. Going to the top makes this a great route rather than just another sport climb.
Aug 17, 2004
As of 8/12/03, the first hanger is missing. The stud is sticking out about 1.5" so you can still loop a wired stopper on it. Check the slings thoroughly before you rap; They're looking a little tattered. Good route!
Aug 13, 2003
I did this route a few years back, and I lead it again last night after it got retrobolted. I skipped the bolts this time. Last night I continued up the crack past the anchor for quite some ways before moving slightly left and finishing the rest of the rock on the arete. This is one long pitch. Done this way the bolted section felt like 5.10a (it felt that way before it was bolted too), the moves for the next 15' are 5.8, and then there is a 5.10b crux above pro when the side-pulls and feet peter out at the same time. From there the route gets more slabby (5.8?) for a while, with so-so pro. When you encounter a broken area and some leaning flakes on the arete to the left, move onto the arete and charge for the top. The arete here is nice and goes 5.9, VS if you are not skipping off to the sides at the final bulge. If you don't liek the runout, you could move hard right at the final bulge and clip the fixed pins with long runners before pulling it there. This is as for Northwest Corner. Very nice.
Jun 13, 2002
This route is the line of Brownies In The Basin. This was first led by Rob Candelaria back in the '70s. I led this about ten years ago (at 5.9 X). Gear includes a couple RPs (did not have Aliens then), some ways below the crux. To my knowledge some others have led this too, including Chris Archer. No one has fessed up to this retro-bolting, anyone know who did this? Having said all this, it it certainly a more fun lead with the bolts, and I for one would not particularly like to see them removed. Maybe just for folks to check their guidebooks before drilling! Also watch out, my head got attacked by a falling Stopper while finishing this pitch. It may only have been a #12, but it sure felt like a #48. Painful!
Sep 29, 2001
- Corn on the Cob
Nice addition to Cob. I'm 5'10" and no dyno required. Looking at the photo, I'm sure I used a different sequence. I appreciated that where good gear was available, no bolts were placed.
May 16, 2006
The move turning the overhang at the second bolt is the crux. I did a dyno to the good incut edge above the bolt, and I'm 6'1". Shorter climbers may find this move more like 11a or 11b. Above, steep but moderate (8 to 9) climbing leads to the anchor.
Nov 8, 2005
- Crystal Arete
- Devil's Dream
- East Crack
Wow! This will be my first route comment. Not to say others I have climbed were less worthy, just that this was a pretty big lead for me. A big confidence builder, and one hell of a good time! What a sweet line. I gotta say though, I disagree about the "sketchy" gear. I have one word and I'll say it three times: NUTs, nuts, nuts! It's all I placed (besides the perfect black Alien) and the cracks ate them up like candy. PERFECT, bomber placements. However, they are a bit "tricky" to place only because of the thin ass stances at which you must place them...you must be quick...decisive and keep moving, but it's all there. Anyway, loved it. Gonna have to do it again, via Night Vision.
May 24, 2013
I didn't bring enough small gear for this route, so for me the protection was poor. But the corner at the beginning is definitely runout with injury fall potential. Also there is a loose rock at the top of the last pitch (end of the 5.7 crack) that could easily come out and cause trouble.
Aug 16, 2012
I'll second (and third for that matter) the option to climb straight up off the belay (as for Night Vision) up the thin crack and traverse right underneath the roof and get back into East Crack after a few 5.8 moves. I thought 5.10b was a pretty accurate difficulty rating for this climb considering I have bigger fingers but still really enjoy thin finger cracks. I stayed primarily in the crack and thought the gear was great and everywhere I needed it to be. However, if you're uncomfortable climbing above thin gear, this might not be the route for you. Beautiful climbing and a nice position.
Jul 15, 2012
I definitely agree with the above comments concerning sketchy gear. the placements leading up to the crux are mediocre at best. If you were to blow the crux move and zipper, good placements lower will definitely hold. It still makes for a spicy lead. The climbing itself is great.
Jun 14, 2012
I placed two #3 stoppers, two green Aliens, and one blue Alien throughout the pitch above the roof. The gear is where it needs to be(kind of), although I found placing the gear very challenging and difficult. Indeed, the crack gets progressively harder until the piton (the pin could be 4-6 feet lower in my opinion). The finger crack on the third pitch is worth the effort.
Jul 20, 2008
As Chad's comment notes, it is easier to climb and protect this route by beginning left of the small dihedral. From there I traversed under the step roof and pulled over on the right getting back in line with East Edge. From there, instead of taking the pin-scarred crack, I climbed more or less straight up using a variety of cracks and edges. Certainly this is the line of least resistance on the left side of Cob Rock but watch what you pull on up there as there are numerous loose flakes that are difficult to avoid and could do a lot of damage if they came off.
Jul 20, 2008
Great climb, rack I used: RPs 5+ 4, to 00, a 0.5 (WC) cams, to pitons, a #8 stopper, #1(WC)cam, to a #2BD cam one 60m pitch, fun moves good gear 5.10a.
Jul 10, 2007
The bolt that you saw is probably one of the bolts that got replaced on the second pitch of Night Vision (see comments there for details).
Apr 1, 2006
Did somebody put a bolt on this thing...? Looked across today at it and it seemed like there was a new bolt below the fixed pin by 10 ft or so. Maybe a face variation, or from my perspective, it wasn't on the East Edge? I hope not! That route has great character and doesn't need anymore fixed gear on it.
Mar 31, 2006
I led this route last week for the first time and really enjoyed it.We did the first pitch of Night Vision to start.I found the gear to be excellent and easy to place. Really fun route and a good after work excursion.
Aug 9, 2004
To me, it made more sense to climb straight up to the roof just left of the belay. There is a thin crack system that offers plenty for small nuts. Once reaching the roof travers a couple of feet to the right until you can reach the good horizontal crack above the roof. I think this route can be sewn up with a set of RPs or micro stoppers. I didn't place a single cam on the whole pitch.
Jun 24, 2002
There is a variation to this route, that I'm not sure has an established name or anything, but I'm sure it's been climbed before. Instead of starting up the left-facing corner into the overlap, it's possible to climb start about 6-8 ft. to the right. This leads up into incipient cracks with sparse pro above the overlap. Moves felt like hard .9 or easy .10, but it's been a while, so I'm not sure my memory serves correctly. Eventually, the pitch wanders up into easier, though steep ground with a nice crack and good pro. Pretty much the whole thing can be done in one long pitch. Once again, I'm not sure how much different this is from the East Crack described, but it seems to me that it's a different pitch altogether. Please anyone feel free to correct me or inform of the proper name for the climbing described. One quick note on bees on Cob. I have been up there on a day when some people knocked off a sizeable nest and there were bees all over the place. Crawling on my legs as I led the second pitch of Empor! Just please be careful of those pesky bastards, they're everywhere anyways, we don't need to climb through angry swarms.
Apr 11, 2002
It was probably 6 years ago when I did this, but I recall the runout moves are at the start before the roof, where it is only 5.8-9. Another way to start this climb is the first pitch of Night Vision (10b, look for 2 bolts left of Huston's Crack). This is much easier than the 10d thin crack right of Huston's Crack, and doesn't require big cams and grunting like Huston's Crack.
Nov 7, 2001
Well, this time Charles and I disagree on the Protection. Perhaps I was too tenuous to place, or perhaps it is my height, but I found myself struggling a bit for good gear on this route. My partner, who is shorter than I agreed that the gear was difficult or lacking. Then again, I normally climb in Eldo, not Boulder Canyon. The moves are very cool, however, and very worthwhile.
Nov 6, 2001
- Eat Left
- Eat Right
By wandering back and forth quite a bit between the 3 cracks in all, one may be able to skip the cruxes of all of the lines and reduce the grade to a 5.9 or 5.9-. We referred to this as 'Eat It All.'
Aug 9, 2015
- Empor
I was climbing North Face Center today, and the party on Empor had to bail. We retrieved the gear for you, but more importantly I hope the leader is doing alright. Shoot me an email, and we can meet somewhere, so you can get your gear back. I will delete this comment as soon as possible as it's not really relevant to the route. Just want to give the gear back and figured this was the best place. Ben Pettys bpettys49@gmail.com
Apr 8, 2017
Hey all, Got my rope stuck on the rappel down today 6/6/16. If anyone has the heart to undo it from the horn on their rap down and return it to me, it would mean the world. My phone number is 401-864-7675. Thanks so much for considering.
Jun 6, 2016
Really fun route. My first time climbing trad and my first time climbing multi-pitch (I followed). Not a strong crack climber yet, so I had the most difficulty with what should have been the easiest part of the route - the top of the third pitch with hand jams for days. We did the route in 2 pitches and finished in the dark.
Jun 1, 2016
@Jake - Empor was put up in the '50s, Grins in the late '70s.
Mar 14, 2016
Felt harder than Grins (5.8) at Happy Hour Crag to me.
Mar 12, 2016
Do the direct start from under the boulder, meaning stick in the dihedral and do not break right to follow the pins, a little harder, but... YOU GOT IT!
Jul 26, 2014
There is a new rappel route from the summit. It was installed to help mitigate the degradation of the standard walk off, which is in major disrepair. There are two chain anchors near the summit, basically between the top of Empor and Northwest Corner . There is another rap station on a small ledge between those two routes for a second rappel. Two raps with one 60-meter rope gets you down.
Aug 1, 2013
If you're not good at fist and hand jamming, like me, that zig-zag crack at the top is pretty scary, but there is good pro (Camalots #1-3), and the fall would be pretty safe. It definitely earns the "+". We soloed to the top of the start boulder and did the entire route in one long pitch with a 60m rope. I think it was close to all the rope though. A 70m rope would be more prudent for anchor building at the top. Rope drag wasn't really an issue, so if you're looking to get up and down quick, I'd say that's your best bet.
Jun 10, 2013
Fantastic route! Inadvertently combined pitches 1 and 2 but glad it worked out that way; don't think there's anything harder than 5.5 on P2. The start of P1 is awesome; probably 5.9 and scary if you don't use the large boulder behind. But either way, stay in the dihedral. The moves in the corner, above the boulder, are fantastic and the gear is excellent!
Jun 21, 2012
I loved this climb. The photo here shows a climber skirting around obvious dihedral that I thought was 5.8+. The 1960's 5.7 rating is not accurate in my opinion, and the route is dangerous if you don't protect well at the beginning as the start is exposed and potentially dangerous landing terrain. It is NOT a place for beginning 5.7 leader. I don't know how this is 5.7 when the Bastille is 5.7 and the crux moves here are much more sustained. I started climbing in Eldo in 1968, and I know what 5.8 is and I know 5.9. This first pitch is closer to the latter than the former.
Sep 13, 2011
Spicy moves at the beginning made this seem a little harder than 7 for me. Still liked it a lot, great route.
Sep 11, 2011
Climbed it this morning, crossed the creek up stream 50 or so yards of the parking lot. We opted for 3 pitches so my wife could lead the 2nd. 1st felt 5.7+ on the direct start. 2nd felt really light for 5.7, more like 5.5ish to me. A great line for a new leader for sure. Tons of feet, nice jambs, eats up #1 and #2 BD cams. 3rd. weird positions but bomber jambs with good feet. I'd call it 5.7+, it eats gear too. Cheers, Prod.
Sep 11, 2010
This was my first-ever rock climb back in 1959, and after probably another 5-6 times over the intervening years still remains my favorite Boulder Canyon climb. Very high quality rock, decent exposure, fine climbing with great pro---what more could a person ask?!
Sep 9, 2010
I'd bring stuff to 3.5" if I were just leading at this level. Also, the creek is way down, easy to cross, but the downstream tyrolean is definitely in. Love the last 7+ handcrack variant, way better than the slot. There are three fixed pins in the first couple of pitches. The first one looks pretty good, the next two, not so much. We did the first two pitches as one, bring several slings for this.
Aug 18, 2010
The line that this picture shows Ben taking, while being the route, is not the most obvious line to me. I keep left, staying in the dihedral while working stems and great hand/finger jams. Feels about 5.8, and superfun the whole way. Protection is adequate (a bit tricky in the boulder cave though, so PG13.) Climbing the first pitch this way ties with the 5.7 zigzag crack on P3 for quality of climbing. I like to link P1-2 if I have a partner I'm confident can make it up without coaching.
Aug 9, 2009
This is a fun route, the beginning is a little tricky, before you get to the ledge after the big boulder on the start, but I think most of the difficulties were in my head, as I am just starting to lead trad. The rest of the route is pretty easy. Big gear is helpful; I remember using a #4 Friend somewhere on P1. There is a nice horn you can sling for a protection point on the 1st anchor at the start of the face crack (P2), also be careful setting up the anchors as I noticed some loose blocks up there.
Nov 5, 2007
We did this one starting from the crack below the boulder. We continued up the crack to the left from the top of the boulder. This was the most exciting section, with a phantom alien in there just to mess with you. It would make the route much more enjoyable if someone would go in there and pry that thing out. (I may do that in a few weeks when I get back. I though it was 5.9- for the "cave" section, but everywhere else was 5.7 or easier.
Oct 8, 2007
Everyone climbs this one, and I see why, it's great. The start of it is a little tricky. Can also be done in one pitch 60m.
Jul 10, 2007
Nice route, we did the first pitch from under the boulder, and there was maybe a move or 2 of 5.8 (but there is an easier variation to the right). I got to lead the last pitch which was really classic, good air, good gear, and good jams. Cruised it the whole time no problem, my buddy lead the Classic Dihedral at the Bucksnort Slab yesterday, and he thought this climb was quite a bit easier.
Jun 17, 2007
I've only been leading this year and haven't lead anything harder than 5.9+. Having said that, the first pitch was tricky for me, and I had to stem to the boulder; the pro wasn't abundant, and the edges below didn't look fun for a fall. P2 seemed pretty straight forward, and I used plenty of stoppers for pro. We combined P1 and P2. P3 was a little tricky for me and there was plenty of exposure. Here, I used mainly cams for pro, #3 being the biggest. Overall, the climb was very cool, and I would recommend it! Please note, I was here about a month or so ago and there was a tyrolean. Today, it was gone which made the creek crossing interesting.
Sep 10, 2006
The quickest way is to climb from next to the boulder, and link all the pitches finishing with the right angle crack in one long lead. A 60m works fine. Also, you can rappel from the 5.0 slot all the way to the ground by dropping right from the route. This only takes one 60m rope, but make sure to tie the ends, you will be at them when you step off! If you're worried about weather coming in, this is the quickest ascent (other than solo or simul).
Jul 2, 2006
From reading the comments I guess we did the direct start. I remember it being harder than 5.7. We started parallel with the big boulder and there was a very airy move with no feet to get on the climb. Then on the second pitch there was a very difficult crack. I'm not a very good pure crack climber so I won't hazard a guess on the grade but I found it to be quite hard. Otherwise its an excellent climb, just be confident at a few grades above 5.7 to lead this one.
Jun 8, 2006
I climbed this a time ago, but just wanted to post that I felt as though the 7+ last pitch was harder than Northface left on Cob, and to me harder than Huston Crack. Huston just eats your shoulder so easily, and the 7+ last pitch here is kind of tricky at some points to figure out. just my $.02
Nov 4, 2004
I lost a blue/gold Reverso at the base on 6/12/04. If anyone would come across it, I'd offer up a beer or two. Fun climb, last pitch a little scary for a beginning leader w/ zero crack climbing experience.
Jun 14, 2004
I belayed a beginner leader on this yesterday (not his first lead, but close). He did the whole route in one pitch on a 60m rope, taking the easy version of pitch 3. He avoided rope drag by putting a piece off to the right where the route heads left up the slot. Actually, Will just didn't know where he was supposed to belay, and kept going up to a few feet below the top. I made him come back down so I could lead the 5.7+ pitch 3. Not having a sufficently large cam made it feel a lot harder than 5.7. Basically, the stance sucked where I put in a cam to protect the crux moves. With a #3 camalot or equivalent it would have been a breeze (I think). Great route. Great rock. Beautiful, solid granite. Reminds me of New Hampshire.
Jun 11, 2004
I see the route description and Ben's photo indicate the route goes about 15' ro the West of the dihedral at some point. I always went straight up though. Anyone know if I'm stupid or is that the route? Given the great possibility that I'm stupid, anyone feel going straight up is harder than .7+?
Sep 26, 2003
A way to ease uncliping on the tree side is to clip a separate sling wherever you can when you get over and then step onto the sling to releave your weight off of the biner you're used to slide across.Another way to give newbies some added comfort is to give them an ascender (or two) and clip to the rope on a pulley rather than just hang on a biner, less friction.
Jul 16, 2003
One tyrolean trick is to not wear your pack, but to clip it to the rope and tether it to you with a sling. Thus you will be dragging it along. When you get to the other side, you will not have the added weight of the pack during the dismount.
Jul 16, 2003
William:When doing a tyrolean with a heavy pack it helps to take the pack off your back, hang it on the line with a separate draw/carabiner and then put yourself on the line in front of it and tow the pack behind you using some long slings.
Jul 16, 2003
Did this route the other day with a "newbie" leader. This one makes an EASY two pitch route. I started in the "cave" below the boulder, working the RF Dihedral/finger crack. A LOT of fun. Felt like a solid 5.8 start. The last pitch can feel a little sketchy (especially for new leaders). If you make the climb in 3 pitches, let them have the middle as a WONDERFUL beginner lead. Lots of fun on the Tyrolean as well. Thanks to whomever donated the rope (though the unclip on the southern side is a climb in itself...). Any ideas for awkward people with heavy gear aside from using the tree?
Jul 16, 2003
This climb can easily be done in one nice long pitch. We started on top of the boulder and took the 5.0 left-angling crack. Belayed on top in a handsized crack just down from the tree.mike.
Jun 3, 2003
It's pretty easy to boulder up the outside (north side) of the giant boulder at the base of the route, and the tree that's up there is a good spot to belay from. Pitch 2 would make a great first lead because there are lots of face holds, so you don't even need the crack for anything but putting in gear (really good gear too)). If you have some crack skills (i.e. you know how to make a hand jam) the last pitch is kind of awkward, but very secure and takes good gear - it's nice to have camalots 1 and 2 ready when you need them.
Apr 27, 2003
Climbed this route yesterday and had a great time, though we started a bit higher than I think we were supposed to on top of the biggest boulder that is at the start where 3 pitons are (2 broken heads, 1 still complete). The dihedral below this boulder to the East seems like a better direct start. I also wandered off towards the route labeled as "8" in the photo, does anyone know the name/rating on that? When I got to the level of the "V" dihedral that heads to the "5.0" pitch I traversed across and finished off. It was an interesting variation for sure. Also, the top of the "5.0" section has a nice short crack that was good fun.
Sep 30, 2002
My first climb ever in Boulder Canyon. It was a blast. We started from the west side of the boulder, just before the West Cracks area. I wasn't able to do it with the rack I was conned into carrying but it was a good alternative start. The first pitch or two are vastly different than the last. It is a sweet crack on the 5.7+ section. A great move over the bulge that you really have to experience yourself. It is also in the shade a good portion of the morning. I love this place.
Aug 30, 2002
A 50m rope reaches the second belay as described above with no problem.
Jun 19, 2002
Did the "Tour de Cob" yesterday, including Empor. We did the direct, dihedral starting below the boulder and avoided heading right but continued up and belayed where the dihedral opens up to the V-slot. Then, instead of taking the V-slot or the 7+ crack, we did some thin cracks to the right of the 7+ crack that are connected by a couple horizontal cracks. Has anyone done these? I am curious as to what other's thought the ratings of this might be. I thought it was 9ish.
Jun 18, 2002
The first pitch seemed to be the most difficult of the three. Not the best pro, not the best feet, not the best landing but the best climbing. By the third pitch your in the zone and the traversing crack goes smooth, as long as you stay in it.
May 17, 2002
I agree, the direct start is the best way to start this climb. I thought it was the best pitch. The pictures below show a leader avoiding the corner, and thus IHMO, the best climbing on the route. Stemming to the boulder would definitely drop the grade. I'd say that it's solid 5.8 without the stem. I thought it harder than the last pitch which seemed straight forward jamming to me.
May 1, 2002
This is a fun climb. The 5.8 start straight up the corner feels stiff to me. The feet are somewhat desperate but the hands/fingers are good. I tried to do this without using the boulder at all but found it to be too difficult and yielded to the stem. Also, it's about 100 ft. to the start of the left angling slot so I think this could be led as one pitch with thoughtful pro (and enough of it!).
May 1, 2002
Very nice route.. 3 stars indeed. We chose the direct approach up the dihedral and it didnt seem much harder than 5.7+/8 so a good choice, once you get that first piece. Also on P3 we took the choice of the line of 4 bolts to the left of the crack, anyone have any idea of what this goes at ? I was thinking somewhere in the range of 11b'ish ? A confirmation on that would be nice, as it is not to be found anywhere. Enjoyable climbing, great for intro leaders with tons of gear placements and great belay stances. A must do at Cob Rock.
Aug 30, 2001
I agree that the 5.7+ 3 pitch was harder than P1. But as Ben said, it is quite fun. The crack is pretty wide for most of the pitch and I placed my wide pieces up front, leaving me with a good run out. The jams are great though so it wasn't emotionally shattering, I think... :)
Aug 28, 2001
Great route, even if I did soak my butt (and gear) on the tyrolean. The last 5.7+ pitch was a bit challenging for me, particularly with a bag full of liquid chalk on my harness and wet, squishy shoes. The 5.8 dihedral start on the left and the 5.7+ crack above that seemed really easy compared to the last pitch. Cracks aren't my forte' though (yet).
Aug 24, 2001
A more interesting start is to climb in the dihedral from the very beginning and don't wander too the right right as shown in the photos. The dihedral isn't that hard but I couldn't guess at the grade. I was a 5.9 leader and it felt hardish to me.
Jun 21, 2001
- Empor Scary Variant
I think you may have been off route from the Empor for sure. The direct 5.8 finish to the Empor is very obvious from the v-slot ramp. If you belayed after turning the corner left on the first pitch of the Empor, there would be a 12 foot crack running straight up. It then diagonals right for about 10 ft then heads up a smaller corner diagonal left. It is very straightforward. If my memory serves, you may have been on the face left of this crack. Not sure what that is. Either way. I wouldl go back and do the above finish :) It is great climbing.
Jul 24, 2008
So I'm not sure if I accidentally climbed this route - we were shooting for Empor, but rather than heading up left into the V-notch, I headed straight up a small crack, which ended with a loose hold in a crack next to a VERY thin horizontal crack below a blank face. Rather than heading left, like this route seems to suggest, I headed right on the crazy-thin horizontal - basically toesmears on nothing, match on tiny crimper, and huge move right to a crimp on the far right end of the horizontal. Yellow TCU in the horizontal. After getting up on the small ledge to the right of the horizontal, a couple pieces up a short crack, and then another long traverse right. I ended up traversing out to the arete, to some jugs, but couldn't get any gear, and didn't want to run it out up the face, so I continued traversing around the arete to a head-sized pillar-flake, slinging that and finishing on the roof of Northwest Corner. It was probably a 30-ft unprotected traverse, which was really stupid, but I couldn't seem to figure out how to do anything else. Is that this route, or did I do some strange new variation?
Jul 21, 2008
Can also be accessed from the 'Northwest Corner' route.
Nov 20, 2007
- Face Problem
- Face Route
Bring small TCUs (couple C3 00s are useful) and some wires. Bold lead certainly, but the climbing eases up after the first 15 feet.
Sep 17, 2010
The entire climb felt 5.11 as there are several cruxs throughout, especially at the start. The seam at the top might take 'small' RPs if I remember correctly (I seriously doubt it). This would be a bold lead as it probably would have to be climbed without gear, perhaps an awkward small cam placement periodically (again, I doubt it). Face Route makes for a fun late day adventure as it will leave you feeling complete and energized as it did me. Most of the moves involve balancy, intricate, and technical foot work on small insecure edges.
May 18, 2008
- Game, The
Downgraded to V15 after the second ascent. From Woods' 8a scorecard: "after returning back and using the new method, The Game felt to be more like a soft V15 than 16. A couple of the holds have seemed to of grown in size from brushing. This new method is different from what I did, so therefore it is a different boulder problem. Before, I could not use these holds since they were not as positive as they are now. Regardless, it is still an amazing boulder."
Sep 12, 2011
- Goat, The
Good route, but scary walk off. I would really love to try this route straight up instead of going left towards the tree. Does anyone have any beta? Seems like a pretty cruxy move(s) with zero gear and a potential fall on to a ledge (and then the ground).
Jul 1, 2008
- Headless Horseman, The
Hey Chris, Could you be more specific about the starting holds for this climb? There is a small hole at the very bottom with an edge that I considered the starting hold, but the start is awkward and bunchy. Just wanted to make sure this is actually the start. Thanks, t
Apr 17, 2011
- Hug, The
- Hurley Direct
For guys with big hands (i.e., can hand jam #3s) like myself, this route looks awfully hard from the ground, seeming to require super thin locks.... And well, it does, but it's shockingly easy given how small the finger locks are (I had five pinkie and ring-finger locks consecutively through the crux), part of this was due to the plethora of good footholds, but the jams themselves, while small, are shockingly secure, similar to the gear, which is small, but bomber. Highly recommend this route, solid 10a, neither soft or sandbagged, and the upper section, which goes at 5.8-ish, is also quite fun.
Jul 18, 2016
There is an old piton you can clip about 10-15 feet up once you pull over the juggy ledge and step over left. Super fun route with great protection!
Oct 20, 2015
I followed this one today. Fun crux move, but my foot slipped and I fell from about 10 feet up. With rope stretch I hit the ground, although it was cushioned quite a bit. Fired right back up and enjoyed a great climb the rest of the way to the top. Moving out right around the corner near the top was really nice.
Sep 11, 2011
Is the fixed, silver TCU still there?
Sep 10, 2010
Good climb with a one move crux. Solid pro. Great 1st 5.10a for an aspiring 5.10 leader. Can't really get hurt falling if pro set well.
Sep 9, 2010
- Huston Crack
My uncle Cary Huston put this up in 1955, as a 22 year old kid-fresh out of the army's 10th Mtn. Division training school. He was among a handful of Boulder climbers pioneering the sport in those years, the likes of Kor, Carter, Northcutt, Hornbein, etc.... Cary explained to me over the years - "When we climbed back then, we had a hemp rope, lug soled boots, a single piece of sling wrapped around your waist for a harness, and the we didn't think about the need for intermediate protection." Amazing. This was essentially a free solo in the day and one of the hardest climbs ever put up at the time. Cary is not long for this world at age 83, but cheers to you UNC! You helped start it all. Cary Huston Hayes 1-6-17
Jan 6, 2017
After a good chunk of the day running trad laps on Cob, I was ready for a wind down and figured this shorty would be my ticket. Started off just fine...got into the offwidth section, set my #4, made about two moves above it and started getting worked! Couldn't seem to get good feet...through in another #4, attempted next move and peeled. Stout f#cker! Managed to walk the #4 the remainder of the way and struggle ferociously to the topout. Definitely not a wind down kind of 5.8/9. Needless to say, agree with everyone's comments.... Fun. Indeed full on offwidth flare. Will make you sweat & maybe resort to foul language as well. Found the 5.10d to the right easier to my liking and the 11a to the right of that is a super fun micro-edgefest! Hard & reachy.
May 31, 2015
It's not really worth the effort of tape in my opinion. There are good hand jams low and good knees in higher, and I mostly gastoned the outside edge while sliding my legs up. I'd say pants over shorts though.
Jul 6, 2013
Do you guys tape up for this one?
Jun 10, 2013
I wish there were more cracks like this in Bocan. I didn't think the OW difficulties were all too bad... felt pretty secure with only one #4 Camalot. I guess another and maybe a #5 would be nice, but if you're solid in the OW, it'll be fine with a single #4. The crux is a surprising few moves near the top of the crack at the exit....
Oct 12, 2012
I brought a #6 because, well, I own one and I've only placed it once before. Found a great spot for it up high...but you can sew it up just fine without. Two #4's and a #5 will get you through the crux.
Jul 24, 2012
My first off-width done today with 1 #4. Definitely wanted another one!!! I walked it up as far as I could which made the climbing a little harder, left it as high as I could and was still looking at a good 25'er. To do this climb safely, bring two #4s and even a #5 if you want to sew it up.
Aug 29, 2011
The new guidebook for Boulder Canyon (Wolverine Publishing) gives this a 5.9 rating, which I generally agree with. For comparison, use the OW on pitch three of Central Pillar of Frenzy in Yosemite. It's signicantly easier (same size, but lower angle) and rated 5.8. (This is relevant if you consider Yosemite's routes and their ratings a benchmark).
Aug 28, 2010
I found the knee jams on this one to allow for some rest breaks. I walked a #4 Camalot up about 20 feet through the middle section of the crack. I found it rather strenuous and around the crux I tested a 3" cam by weighting it from a few feet above. Lieback the crux. After resting a moment, I tried this and cruised to the belay. This climb made a fun step up from 5.7 for me. Hard, but not unreadable, and in the solution there is great satisfaction.
Aug 3, 2009
Sewn up? I'll tell you about sewn up! Take two #4 Camalots, and a #5! You could practically aid it. And if you accidentally kick the 5 on the way past, so it's tipped out and worthless, you'll still only be 6' or so above the top #4! Groveling in style!
Jun 15, 2009
First time I did it I got a big old Chouinard hex (8 or 9) stuck in there, had to rap to get it out. Gave me a big cramp in my foot.
Jul 11, 2008
This is the quintessential wide crack primer. You can even get a couple of chicken wings in towards the top. Resist the urge to use facial features. I left the #4 Camalot in the car since I was just planning to do Empor. Luckily I had #3.5, #3, and #2 Camalots and a Trango MaxCam about the same size as the #3.5. The #2 worked well in a horizontal crack toward the top of the wide section and protected the weird mantel move getting out of the wide crack. Enjoy!
Jul 11, 2008
This is a classic, in part because of the great crack, but also because of the rating! If this were done today, it would be listed at 5.9. Back then, 5.10 was the hardest there was, so if you could climb it at all they gave it a 5.9, and if you did it first try it was listed at 5.8.
Jun 14, 2008
I recall back in the early '90s Scott Parazinski, aka the vampire to John Glenn & one of the two astronauts on the recent record setting space walk, jumping onto this route on lead with my meager rack at the time with a #4 Friend as the biggest piece. =[:~o
Nov 5, 2007
This was also a whim climb for our group after Empor, so after flailing all over this thing I didn't go home thinking I was the king of the mountain. #2 moral is not to try this after Empor.
Nov 5, 2007
I climbed this last month on a whim after getting done Empor. I didn't have the requisite big cams and I ran it out on lead to groundfall potential at my leading ability (not good). I walked a 3.5 Camalot up with me to about 1/2 way until it was too tipped out to function, then shot for the top. Well, I didn't actually shoot for the top, more like oozed up the crack to the top, sometimes gaining 6 inches then losing 2. At the crux I was fairly pumped, overgripping (oh feck, oh feck) and I ALMOST tried to face climb to the left to an inviting bolt I could fall from. I'm glad I didn't, I probably would have peeled. The moral of the story is to bring big cams.
Nov 5, 2007
I thought that the crack was heinous, I got spanked tiring to go up this off width beast, my feet didn't fit in the crack, and I ended up jamming knees and arm bars, prying apart the crack up toward the top, then I ran out of big gear and had to lower and TR. But I tell you my arms feel great today, guide book calls it an 8, but I have to disagree, and would bump it to a 9... I really like most cracks (and usually breeze up them) but I guess I have to learn a better technique for these off widths, I really wanted to do a toe-heal, but I wasnt finding the right place for that, and most of the way my hands just felt too small. I will probably do this again until I get up without much trouble.
Nov 5, 2007
Good Clean Fun!!! First your jamming hands, then fists, then sideways fists, then arms and legs. Very nice crack clinic.
Aug 13, 2007
Fat cracks are Phat! this one is fun, bring a big cam and just walk it along as you climb, Jammin' man...
Jul 10, 2007
Definitely wide. It's possible to to get good fist jams through the wide section if you reach deep enough.
May 26, 2007
Ya, just to echo whats already been said. The crux on this one is high and you need a 4 or 4.5 BD size cam to protect it. Learned this one the hard way, I grounded out when I slipped at the crux and my tapped out 3.5 pulled.
Sep 4, 2003
Be careful on this climb! You need large pro for the top (i.e. BD #4). I saw a guy deck from the top yesterday as his pro zippered, then got hauled out on a litter.. Other than, that VERY cool climb..and the 10d is also way cool..
Aug 18, 2003
This route makes for a great introduction to off-width cracks. It's a bit less than vertical and several hold outside and inside the crack make it a very worthwile TR.
Aug 12, 2002
Yeah, this is a good route, fun and frustrating. From the ground the rock around the wide part of the crack looks like there might actually be some good holds but the rock was pretty polished. The leg jam was harsh. I got stuck!!!
May 28, 2002
I made the mistake of assuming the crux was in the thin crack section near the bottom and foolishly decided to tackle the wide section with no pro. Needless to say things got a bit desperate when I reached the crux and my last piece was 25 feet below me (clearly in decking territory) The crux comes about 40 feet off the ground where the wide crack narrows enough to force your leg out of the offwidth jam. As stated by Ben, to pro this correctly, 2 number 4 Camalots would be needed (unless you care to walk one of them up with you). All this being said, this is a fun route, sustained and technical.
Sep 17, 2001
A #4 Camalot or equivalent is almost mandatory unless you run it out through the offwidth section. If you have two, you could really sew it up.
Jan 1, 2001
- Indistinction
A bolted rap route was installed in 2013. mountainproject.com/forum/t…
Aug 24, 2017
Could not find a bolted anchor for this climb. Nearest anchors were quite far down and left of where we topped out, above the 11 climb (?). Slings above the downclimb are shredded, just a single cord in place, so didn't use that, either. Walk off sucks.
Aug 19, 2017
I'm terrible at hand cracks, but this pitch felt easier than the top pitch of Empor for me. I'm giving it two stars for the varied moves (stemming, jamming, a little offwidth if you're feeling ballsy). Worth doing if you're in the area and the classics are taken, or as a warmup for Huston.
Jun 30, 2014
I swapped the locations of bolt hangers and added a quick link to improve anchor. It's much better now. Too bad the starting hand crack doesn't go on for 80 feet....
Sep 5, 2012
Was up there today. Current anchor is 2 bolts: 1 hanger has a steel rap ring on it and the other currently has a biner on it.
Sep 26, 2010
Climb this to get your self esteem back up after doing Huston Crack. One of the bolts does not have a ring for lowering/pulling the rope. It could use a quicklink for sure.
Aug 26, 2009
Went up to Cob the other day and discovered a new bolted anchor above this climb.
Jul 6, 2009
Good climb, crappy descent.
Apr 23, 2008
Climbed it on 5/17/07 the first time, fun route- used a #3+#4 (BD)cam and then climbed up and left to a rap tree that drops you on the east face of cob. start has great jams, watch out for loose rocks when climbing through the broken area to tree.
Jul 10, 2007
First 15 feet is a delight. Perfect jams. Then it gets blah. There are some rap slings to avoid the gnarly walk off. Good if the place is swamped and you need to get a buddy from Houston out until the crowds die down.
Aug 8, 2003
- Left Huge aka The Hug Left
Watched a few vids of this after completing yesterday. Looks like most people start higher on the arete than I. Starting left a bit lower adds an extra bump move before throwing to the lip (for a bit more of that "Hug" action). So, could be a bit of variance on the grade depending on choice of start, but hard 8 to easy 9 seems the right range.
Apr 30, 2012
I am curious, I am from Amarillo Texas and did some bouldering in the Cob Rock area. There are a lot of chalked boulders and not very many problem descriptions here in MP. I had a great time on the few boulders I tried (limited to sleeping pads), but I'ed like to know if you guys know what these boulders are or where I might find out? Thanks, this is a linked picture: gallery.me.com/jeremymbauma…
Jul 23, 2011
The Huge Left Hug, V8/11.
May 27, 2011
The location description is great, but any way we could get a picture up? A picture is worth a thousand words.
Apr 14, 2011
Luke, The line you are referring to is called The Hug Left @ V8. t
Apr 4, 2011
Okay, it seems like there is confusion here...and the comments really don't seem to clarify this. Can someone who knows this problem well please clearly indicate what the name of the problem is? Thanks!
Nov 29, 2010
The Hug, Hug Left.
Nov 28, 2010
I was referring to this "Start is the same as for "Huge, V11?""
Jun 27, 2010
No, this is "Hug Left" as described above. Hard V8 feels about right.
Jun 27, 2010
Called the Hug, see my comment about Boulder Canyon blog guide info.
Jun 24, 2010
- Mantle Arete
Worthy problem to try if you are in the area. Difficult and heady mantel problem. If you are short and have to jump, it adds to the spice. You don't want to fall although the landing is flat. -Good find, Angus
Oct 2, 2012
- Ms. Fanny Le Pump
VERY tough warm-up... crux right off of the ground and quite an A$$ kicker at that.
Aug 9, 2015
FA was Bruce Morris, not "Moss".
Aug 17, 2010
Ken Duncan's description sounds like the route that I did back in July 1977. There was a left facing dihedral with a very difficult entrance problem stem.
Oct 7, 2004
The 11c crux moves are the first 5 or 6 moves of the ground in a very weird, awkward and strenuous thin dihedral.
Sep 4, 2004
I recall a tight, steep dihedral with a thin finger crack. My notes say "solid 5.11c, RPs for gear". There is a 5.8 crack to the right, and an easier (5.6) crack right of that; both of these cracks lead into the rock scar.
Sep 10, 2002
- Night Vision
P2 is great. The gear is all there, and additionally there are some new shiny bolts to protect the slab moves. Fun route.
Aug 28, 2010
The slot that Crusher mentions takes a #3 BD stopper placed broadside out. The placement is solid and secure and provides protection while getting to the first bolt (this works because I fell and it held). Going for the second bolt is another ball of wax. As mentioned in the above post-do not fall as one would hit the tree and possibly the ground. There are several ways of getting to the second bolt, both of which are 5.10 moves. Stated simply: The crux of the first pitch is well above the first bolt but not quite at the second. The remaining pitches are fun.
Jul 21, 2008
Love this climb. 1 pitch (60m) to top. Rack used on 6/2/07 in order: clip the two bolts up to #3 (BD) cam @ overhang, #00 (WC) cam, to piton, clipped the two shiny bolts, then a #1 (WC) cam, and some pieces for the belay. 60m rope won't reach all the way to the belay tree on summit if done in single pitch.
Jul 10, 2007
On 9/13/2005 Ron Olsen and I replaced the old 1/4" Rawl buttonhead bolts on the second pitch with 3/8" x2.25" stainless steel Rawl 5-piece bolts. This work was sponsored by the American Safe Climbing Association. They appreciate your support. Bruce ps - on the way down, I spotted two old 1/4" Rawl studs down and left and around the corner from the second pitch of Night Vision. Both were next to an easily protectable crack. Note, these were studs without either a hanger or a nut and were very poorly drilled. Because of their location next to an easily protectable crack, the fact that they were very poorly drilled (sticking half out) and they did not have a hanger or nut attached to the studs, I removed them.
Sep 13, 2005
I've always enjoyed this route. On pitch 1, before the first bolt, don't know about a #2 RP, but there is a shallow slot that takes a sideways #5 RP, the largest one they make, real well. On pitch two the old (and very rusty) buttonheads are still there, as of August 2004. Used to be that this fine arete pitch seemed real safe compared to the funky crack/seam just right, but not anymore. Note to self: Take a prybar and new bolts and drill next time.....
Aug 29, 2004
The second bolt on P1 is poorly placed...if you fall before clipping it, there's a good chance you'll slam into the tree right behind you. The bolts on P2 are old, will probably not hold a fall, and can not really be backed up with pro. I ended up leaving the route and doing the crack which was at least something that can be protected. I agree with the comment above...unless your confident in your 5.10 abilities for the day, don't try leading this.
Jul 15, 2002
Don't fall after the bolt either. The two bolts on the second pitch are rusty 1/4" buttons that will as likely as not pop on a big fall. The first bolt can be backed up about 4 feet to the right by small brass nuts. The second bolt can not. Beware: the leader on this pitch should be a solid 5.10 climber, as there is plenty of opportunity for injury in a fall.
Jun 13, 2002
Don't fall before the 1st bolt. It hurts.
Mar 7, 2002
- North Face Center
LOST GEAR: hi there! I had an epic fail yesterday and left a cam on this route about halfway up while following. It's my boyfriend's cam, and I feel pretty lousy about leaving it (thought it was one of the stuck pieces of gear that dot this route). Anyhow, I would be forever grateful to the next crew to climb this if you would feel generous enough to return the cam. I think it's a green 0.75. I will buy you beer or food and thank you profusely, and you would be saving me from this mistake! Thanks in advance! 616-648-2754
Jul 23, 2017
The boulder on top p1 is definitely ready to go. Don't build anchor there, build it around on same wall as final pitch, still comfy. Bring a bomb shelter, wear a helmet.
Oct 21, 2016
Got a #3 cam stuck near the top of this route today. Several parties tried to retrieve it to no avail If you happen to get it and are feeling benevolent, my phone number is 949-500-7562, and I live in the Boulder area.
Jun 18, 2016
Hey all, Got my rope stuck on the rappel down today 6/6/16. If anyone has the heart to undo it from the horn on their rap down and return it to me, it would mean the world. My phone number is 401-864-7675. Thanks so much for considering.
Jun 6, 2016
If you like climbing five fun cracks, then this climb is for you! We broke up the route into three pitches to make sure my second could hear me a little better in the canyon. The hand jams are bomber, and the crack just keeps going and going and going with great gear throughout. The belay shown in the book sure does look questionable to me as stated by others. It's a huge, detached flake resting on the ledge. Looked a little sketchy to me, so I decided to setup the belay directly below the start of the 2nd pitch of Empor which created rope drag. This was an amazing route I'd climb again - must do for sure!
May 29, 2016
This has been brought up in previous comments, but I just wanted to reiterate. Be very cautious around the flake/block on the small belay ledge for pitch 1!! Before I realized how detached it was, I had placed a cam in the crack created by the block and the face. Tugged on the gear slightly to test and the whole block shifted, not a ton but enough that I nearly crapped my pants. Yikes! So just a word of warning to anyone getting on the route for the first time. From below, everything looks solid and ready to accept gear. Don't be fooled like I was! Also, in my opinion, this makes the ledge nonviable as a belay per the route description. I ended up climbing around the block and building an anchor at the base of pitch two (see pic), which caused a lot of rope drag. Otherwise this was a really fun, quality route. Have fun out there!
Mar 6, 2016
LOST: 70m rope - Mammut Infinity - blue - COB ROCK, Boulder Canyon. Hello all, I was climbing at Cob Rock yesterday (8/15/15), specifically North Face Center route, ending at 2pm. I left my rope at the base of the climb before heading out - 70m Mammut Infinity in a black Metolius rope backpack. If you managed to snag it on your way out, please give me a ring at (207)450-7212. $50 reward. Thanks, James
Aug 16, 2015
Jumped on this route a few days ago (the afternoon of June 24th) and had to bail. Left some gear behind. If anyone comes across is and is kind enough to return the pieces, please PM.
Jun 27, 2015
Good first multi-pitch trad climb. As of February 2015, there are still many fixed nuts and cams throughout the route. The V-slot exit to the left is quite easy for the first part (5.2) but has 15 feet or so of steeper crack climbing at the end (5.7).
Mar 19, 2015
Full value 5.7. Direct finish feels like modern 5.8 and is easily the best part of the route.
May 7, 2014
Fun, easy handcrack for the start, to more fun, thinner finger cracks later on.
Sep 11, 2011
Excellent climb. First pitch is sustained fun. Second is awesome, but I was very scared. I recommend doubles in larger cams (#2BD, I think) for the zig-zag...that or fiddle with hexes (blah). I didn't have cams and felt pure terror as I dashed for the top. Also, confidence with hand and fist jams is a plus. This was harder than 5.7 for me. I don't recommend doing it in one pitch -- starting up the zig-zag with rope drag would be a...drag.
Aug 14, 2011
Next time I climb this I'm going to bring a 70 meter rope and make it one, long, mind-blowing pitch of 5.7. It might even be possible with a 60 meter especially if you are comfortable with a few moves of simul-climbing.
Apr 29, 2011
This is a fantastic route with some exposure, long (sustained) climbing, and quality rock! Don't be fooled by the grade; it makes you earn a 5.7. The crux for me on the second pitch was quite dicey as the feet seemed mediocre. Once I committed, the moves went cleanly. Have fun.
Aug 18, 2007
Climbed on 5/15/07 and enjoyed it lots, I recommend this route.
Jul 10, 2007
I led this in three pitches. Pitch one was to the first ledge, just after stepping right (could have gone to the second ledge a bit further up). Pitch two was up and onto the arete, belayed at the top of the arete. Pitch three (short) was up the crack 8' left of the bolt line. Done this way, I found the crux to be on pitch two, moving into the flared wide crack just above a piton with mediocre feet and non-positive hands.
Jun 19, 2006
This climb is a lot of fun.
Jun 19, 2006
Very nice route. Finished the second pitch by going up the arete (instead of the V-slot) to the final short crack to the top. Like the above comments there is plenty of "gear" to clip into. First time climbing in Boulder Canyon, Great climb.
Jul 7, 2004
Yeah, mucho fun at the grade. Right on par with other BC 7s like Cozyhang, The Owl, and Standard Route. I would recommend bringing double #2 Camalots and at least one #3 if you want to feel well protected on the stellar final pitch.
Jun 14, 2004
I think this is definitely on par with Empor in terms of overall quality and difficulty, a very enjoyable climb. I agree with the comment about Cob Rock being a gear graveyard, there is fixed gear (stoppers, TCUs, etc.) all over the place ;-)
Jun 14, 2004
Climbed this line today, starting around 2 pm. Getting a little cold on the north face. The whole formation was in the shade when we showed up. Great route, three stars. Remember that the Empor link-up goes at 5.7+ easily. I spent a week in Indian Creek and this still gave me a challenge. My girlfriend had to French Free it near the top. Keep that in mind for a second with intermediate hand strength (cupping hands).
Oct 11, 2003
This route has a very large, somewhat loose rock on it at the little ledge (an arete of sorts to the left) where one might set up their first belay. Be cautious of this rock! It is set well (it's been there for thousands of years) but you'll see what I mean if you are trying to place gear in it. Cheers. Brian W
Sep 1, 2003
A fine route! A couple 5.7 moves with great rests. Gear: I didnt use anything larger than a 2 camalot (save for one #10 hex). Theres a great exposed belay on the arete at the top of pitch one (dont go into v-slot). This eases rope drag and allows you to see your partner, and theres no belay difficulties if parties are on empor (always). if you opt for the original finish instead of empor finish, you can: climb the exposed arete just above this belay, or jump into the easy corner. at the top of the corner, finish with a short finger crack (about 8 feet left of the bolt line).
Aug 10, 2002
On a humorous note, this route is approaching sport climb status with 4-5 stuck piece of gear and a piton or two........ Rack: QDs, there's s*** stuck all the way up the crack...... Seriously though, it's one of the best routes in Boulder Canyon in my opinion.
Jun 24, 2002
Pitch 1 was excellent, however, some idiots decided to jump on the belay ledge with me as my partner was on his way up pitch 2. Personally, I would have stopped about 15' feet below to build my anchor on the larger ledge if I saw another party up there. I ran into quite a bit of loose rock (big ones) on pitch 2. All in all, a great climb. Great views of the canyon and surrounding rock.
May 28, 2002
Great climb. I'd give this 3 stars and go as far as suggesting that it's a better line than Empor. The entire climb follows a broken crack system making this one of the longer (and probably best) 5.7 cracks in BC. Perfect jams are available for almost the entire route (assuming you do the 7+ finish). The first pitch is a nice warm up with a few 5.7 moves. The second pitch is more sustained with great pro the whole way up. Watch out for parties on Empor, though, as you might have to wait for them to pass(as we did).
May 8, 2002
Climbed this again yesterday. Combined with the last Empor pitch I think it's easily 3 stars. The first pitch has a few .7 moves but is mostly 5.6, I think. Great apres-work climb as the approach takes about 1.5 minutes. Fun beginner lead.
May 1, 2002
The first pitch is a nice, long, sustained 5.7 with lot's of gear opportunities. The second pitch intersects with Empor and can cause some belaying difficulty if the 5.7+ finish is selected since you have to climb down slightly from the belay before heading to the top.
Sep 25, 2001
- North Face Left
Still a lot of loose flakes. Not a good lead probably if this is your top grade. Gear beta: a small tricam might fit great in the pocket before the traverse (I only had an orange Alien which is a bad squeeze).
Jun 27, 2013
Beware of many loose flakes on this climb. These significantly detract from the quality of the climb.
Jun 25, 2012
Did a direct variation straight up without the traverse left. 5.8+.
Jun 5, 2011
This one is lots of fun. Good gear fun moves, nice exposure, use some double length runners, be smart with where you place your pieces, and you can stretch it in one 60m pitch.
Jul 10, 2007
Don't even THINK about touching that flake or using it for gear. There is a small edge to the left of it you can use as a much smaller hand hold.
Jun 12, 2006
You can backup the fixed pin under the crux w/ a #0 TCU. Check out the extremely loose flake down and right of the pin! Wicked!
Jun 9, 2006
Great climb, seconded this Saturday, and was very impressed by the movement and the exposure.
May 10, 2004
Did this earlier this morning. I don't like it when my holds all feel like they'll fail. Not to spew beta, but I got a bomber #4 Smiley wedge in at the left end of the traverse behind the big flake. It didn't LOOK bomber, but would have held a fall, especially since I just wanted it while I moved up to the pin. In the undercling above the pin I got a really good green alien, and then I slung the super creaky flake. I don't think the slung flake would have held a fall, but it was easy to the ledge after that. If you like climbing on peeling onions you'll like this climb. The moves are spectacular, and the pro reminds me of Eldo, but everything is hollow and flexing. For an awesome finish go straight up the crack in the middle of the tower without steping around the corner to the right.
Jul 18, 2003
This route has a couple creaky flakes on it. I ran it out across the traverse only to discover that my placements would have to go behind flexing flakes. That old pin after the traverse looks pretty good at that moment! A great route.
Jul 23, 2002
You can just make it with a 60m rope. Don't place pro, or use a long sling on the traverse left to eliminate drag to do it in one pitch.
Dec 31, 2001
Good climb, better than Northface Center and Northwest Corner IMHO....
Jan 1, 2001
- Northwest Corner
I climbed at Cob yesterday, did NF center and Northwest Corner and used the new raps. I think the location of the lower station changes the character of the slight runout section on the Northwest Corner. You can now clip the bolted anchor instead of trusting the "seemingly" bomber sideways placed nut backed up by a green Alien below. I have never taken the fall on that gear, but over the years I have stood on the ledge having to muster the courage to cast off into the territory above. I did not clip the bolted station for pro, but it seems like future climbers will be having a different experience on the route if they do use it. I also think the location of the rappel line will create problems for climbers doing the Northwest Corner as other parties rap down, as it did with only two parties on Cob on Friday. I can appreciate the efforts of wanting to minimize erosion, but walking down from the summit takes anywhere from 5-10 minutes. Perhaps the trail could be improved, or the location of this rappel line can be moved further right, to routes that get much less traffic than Northwest Corner. I have enjoyed climbing the historic routes like North Face Left, North Face Center, Empor, and Northwest Corner over the years with no bolts or fixed stations, only ancient pitons, marveling at the skill of those early ascensionists. This is an experience that is disappearing in Boulder Canyon with this small section of Cob Rock as one of the last holdouts. Installing the rap route was probably not done with the intention of altering the experience on this route, but in my opinion it has.
Aug 3, 2013
There is a new rappel route from the summit. It was installed to help mitigate the degradation of the standard walk off, which is in major disrepair. There are two chain anchors near the summit, basically between the top of Empor and Northwest Corner. There is another rap station on a small ledge between those two routes for a second rappel. Two raps with one 60-meter rope gets you down.
Aug 1, 2013
Rated this PG. If you're solid at the grade, the face is no big deal, but a fall there would be fairly long and very painful considering the ledgy nature of the rock. Heads up to the fledgling 5.8 leader. Nice varied climbing on a cool chunk of rock. I do it as one pitch, usually w/ the direct start, and with long runners in the right spots there isn't much rope drag (70m rope).
Jul 24, 2013
This is a really fun route with lots of variety. The face sections are a bit run out, but the features are solid, so there's very little risk of taking a big whipper. We climbed this in one pitch with a 70 meter rope. I ran out of alpine draws along the way, so the rope drag got pretty bad. If you link both pitches, make sure you have a bunch of extendable draws with you.
Apr 25, 2012
Matt, that alternate start is called Hurley Direct, great start to the climb!
Sep 3, 2009
We started around the right of the arete at the base, going up a face with a crack that took a blue TCU. A slightly spicy start (not sure what this route is part of) but a fun alternative to the standard start.
Sep 3, 2009
For added excitement, don't bail around the corner, but continue straight up the corner to the top!
Aug 30, 2009
An alternative start to the route is to climb down under the big boulder and climb the shallow dihedral (5.8) just to the left of the route. This is also an alternate start to Empor. There are some fun moves on this and good pro. Be careful if you climb down from the west side of the boulder as the landing is a little nasty. You can bypass the runout face on this route by going a few feet right into a flaring corner with an old pin (probably Layton's!). The moves are harder (5.9ish), but the pro is decent.
Jun 21, 2006
What a fantastic mental focus problem. Those face moves are pretty easy, but blowing it would be extremely unpleasant, wouldn't it? I found myself standing there for several minutes, irrationally waiting for the traffic noise to die down a bit, consequently exhausting my feet. After a short retreat I pulled thru it without difficulty. After the face I apparently got off-route, moving left into a short dihedral, under the roof, then traversing left on a neat hand crack, finally pulling up and over on a system just to the right of the top of Empor. There was a bit of lichen, but a fair amount of chalk, too. Is there a route between Empor and NW corner? I also did the whole thing in one pitch, and I didn't find the drag to be too terrible.
Sep 27, 2004
Fun, varied moves on excellent rock. A bomber yellow Alien can be placed on top of the pedestal before committing to the runout face section.
Jul 21, 2003
Definitely a fun route, spicier than others on [Cob Rock] with that face section. We should all give thanks to Layton for putting this up back in the day, imagine how hard and sketchy that first lead musta been in 59!!!!!
Aug 14, 2002
If you start just below and to the right of the large boulder, there is a nice finger crack. I think that some of the guidebooks call it Northwest Corner Direct and give it a 10a rating. The hands are good but the feet are thin. The crack is easily protected with some smaller stoppers, you can even place one about ten feet up by getting on the boulder to the right. I know how many feel about pre-placing gear, but it protects you from a potentially painful fall into the cave below. A great variation to a wonderful climb. -BPC
Jul 6, 2002
FWIW, I also found the face above the crack to be "exciting". I certainly didn't feel like I was sewing it up. The most reasonable explanation is that I probably missed the gear to which Myke refers.
Aug 30, 2001
well, let's see. I climbed the crack to the right of the tree/bush with great jams and pro, then found myself standing on top of a small triangle/shelf before the face propper. There was a GREAT horizontal stopper placement at hip or lower (can't rememmber) - prob the one you speak of. Then I hit the face and moved straight up and then right to the arete where the small roof/left leaning crack is...I certainly felt the exposure with the rope 15' below me on that stopper! But I am a coward so that was pretty exciting. Maybe the route to the arete was my problem - looked cool/was cool - maybe better pro further up instead of right to the arete?
Aug 30, 2001
I think you mean the second pitch? That's the only place where I couldn't sew it up at will... At the top/end of that shallow V-dihedral (where the face climbing starts) there was a great stance just left of it on a ledge. I was able to place a #3 stopper (or close) in a little notch (horizontal placement)- it made me feel a lot better than doing the moves with the .75 camalot 10 feet below.
Aug 30, 2001
I do think that new leaders should be warned that the face above the crack on the first pitch should be listed on the Spice Network! Good edges up the face but zippo pro.
Aug 30, 2001
After reading Michael's comments this morning, I KNEW which route I had to do today. Matt's description is accurate - however, I believe the route corresponds to number 8 as drawn on the photo... while the first belay ledge works well at about 5-10 feet down and right (at a fixed pin, just below the large fist-sized jams flake. Yup, and I have to agree, turning the roof is pretty dang sweet. Took me a couple of minutes to figure it out, but not that bad once you figure it out. I think you can probably lead this route with just stoppers, hexes, and draws... I rarely had to use cams, and even then it wasn't mandatory. Fun!
Aug 24, 2001
I can't help it. So it's crowded. And you can actually still hear traffic...but Cob is my favorite rock in the canyon. It becons to be climbed. And the roof on the second pitch of this route (of course from the cushy belay tabletop in the sky) - exquisite. Big jugs above two pins. Beta? Lay it back and crank!
Aug 24, 2001
- Othello
A little research has revealed that though the last few BoCan books have misplaced 'Othello' in terms of where it lies, that this is it.
Aug 9, 2015
There are two pitons at the "top" of this climb...about 25' above where the crack ends. I backed them up with two small cams, brought up my second, and then we rapped from there. Currently there is a decent looking red sling with rap biner through the pitons. This is actually a sweet little climb. Short but worthwhile. The start might be a tad bit dicey if you aren't comfortable at the grade, it protects with small cams/stoppers. After that, you can sew the climb up, and it is easy to protect the roof moves. Save a few mid-sized cams (#1, #2 BD Camalots) for the crack after the roof. Make sure to put long runners on pro directly below the roof.
Jul 24, 2014
I thought this route was great- go out overhang and up the splinter crack. located to the left of Ms. Fanny Le Pump. Rack used: cams (BD)- #.5, #1, #2. Climbed to a rap tree up and left (climb through broken section of rock) 1 pitch, w Philo on 6/21/07 ...5.10-
Jul 10, 2007
The roof was a bit awkward, but it protects great. The jams are solid (at least for my hands) and there are also bomber hands after you get over the roof. The walk off is not so bad, either.
Sep 10, 2002
- Right Crack
This one is not a walkoff. There are two reasonable pitons with good weapon on the date of this post.
Aug 14, 2016
Not really worth doing this route.
May 3, 2012
The rap station has great slings but only one, razor thin aluminum ring. Wouldn't hang my doubts on that dog. Somebody PLEASE invest some damn pocket change and back that shit show up with a lock link. (IIIII will if'n I ever do that side of CR again....)
Jul 17, 2011
There are slings on a tree around the left corner for a 60 foot rappel.
Sep 13, 2010
Good climbing, crappy descent.
Apr 23, 2008
This route is also fun. Rack: (BD) cams #s 1-3 and a #9 or a 10 stopper climbed on 5/17/07- 1 pitch (60m).
Jul 10, 2007
I'm amazed this route was given two stars here. It's a good warm up, but that's about it. Indistinction(5.8), which is to the left of Right Crack, is a much better route.
Jul 29, 2002
Definitely 5.6. The offwidth sections don't take #3 Camalots (didn't bring any 4s, but those should work). But, there's a hand crack to the right that does take normal gear (probably 5.6 also). Slap some gear in that crack, climb down a bit, and practice those arm bars! From the top, follow a very loose path up to the left and rap from a tree. Leave a TR anchor and do the dirty, parallel finger cracks that follow the rap line (5.10?).
Jul 18, 2002
I might give it 5.6, but 5.7? Nah. Not really worth the annoying descent.
Jan 23, 2002
- Sleepy Hollow
This is such a rad boulder! The sit start was super hard not to crack my dome on the rock behind. Also, seems like a great line from the obvious jug, maybe V6? All in all great rock.
Oct 26, 2013
- South Crack (Unknown)
Agreed that, although short, this is a great 1st lead. Easy climbing, bomber gear, and a tree for an anchor. Good jams on it too (or you can just climb the jugs around the crack).
Jun 13, 2012
- Thunder Road
- Under The Boardwalk
- West Cracks
A little dirty but great climbing nonetheless. No RPs needed.
Aug 14, 2016
I started in a crack almost directly below the roof (a touch to the right) and followed a mostly direct line through the roof to the top of the formation in 1 long pitch. Done this way I think it is one of the better 5.9 pitches in Boulder Canyon.
Sep 5, 2012
Bring your RPs for the start.
Aug 14, 2009
An excellent alternative is to stick to the fist crack that wraps around to the right and then up. This gets you behind this small buttress eventually and at the start of West Dihedral. This crack is more of a big flake at one point and kind of spits you out to the right with bad feet for a 5.9ish move. Plug a good cam and commit to the jams and you get above to good holds. Keep on up and end up on a large ledge below the roof with a bolted route on the right. Either add a pitch up the offwidth dihedral to the left and join Northwest Corner or traverse on easy ground at the ledge level and walk off. Place gear on the traverse or not.
Aug 11, 2007
- West Dihedral
Don't let two stars and lack of comments stop you from doing this route; it's a great little after work jaunt and is sheltered from the noise of the creek. The only reason this route doesn't get a third star is because it's short. It protects well, has everything from stemming to jamming to lie backing, and has a great little roof problem to finish it off. Really enjoyed this one and am tempted to give it 3 stars. Bring a second #2 and a #3 to really sew it up. Save one small piece (I used a #1 Metolius) to back up the two pins, but they'll likely hold a short fall.
Aug 19, 2014
I found the Boulder Canyon guidebook's sparse beta to be a little unhelpful. This route is the big, orange, semi-overhanging corner that starts from a big ledge (you could park a Volkswagon there) above the descent path. About 15-20' of 5.3ish climbing is required to gain the ledge; recommended that you either solo this part to prevent rope drag or have your belayer join you on the ledge. Climb the big, orange corner toward the left side of the roof (fun!); look out to your left, and when you see a flat-topped pillar (shortly before climbing into the roof), you can traverse left about 10 feet (stepping over a void on good foot ledges) and belay from that pillar to end a first pitch (there is a fixed pin there). If you climb too high and miss the pillar, you might as well just keep going and link the two pitches indicated by the guidebook---the little left side of the roof looks intimidating but definitely goes at a very reasonable 5.8, and the second pitch is very short.
Jul 1, 2014
This is a fantastic route! Looking up at the dihedral it looks overhanging and way hard. When you get up in it, you find there is much more to it than can be seen from the ground. Fun, fun!
Jul 1, 2013
- West Rib
An interesting variation (not described in either Rossiter guide) to the R: Assuming this is the same start (a bit of face climbing protected with a #7 BD wire to a crack with a pod with a big wire stuck about 25 ft up), after about 90 ft you get to a nice belay on the R. From here go R into a R facing corner with a short offwidth. Use a #5 Camalot to start and a #4 1/2 Camalot at the crux. Muscle up. Find a green Alien placement where you move up and left, and join the Northwest Corner.
May 14, 2002
- Coney Island
- Angry Dragon
- Another Way
- Badger Traverse, The
Not at all similar but certainly easier than DLZ on Upper Coney although I think we may have navigated the ending a little differently than the way described above. A fun little tour nonetheless. Felt like 12b.
Mar 8, 2010
A bit soft for the grade but a fun route on big holds with a boulder problem to get you well pumped at the finish. This may be 13a if you traverse into the 12d finish but you can use other holds and escape to the exit by staying on the lip at about... 12c-ish... easier than Animal Instinct (classic BoCan 12c) by far. The route could get 1 more star but the clips aren't always in the right place given that this is a link-up of many routes.
Mar 6, 2010
- Bait, The
From the ground, this does not look like much, but it climbs really well! Good stemming that feels like Eldo. A few nuts and a ~0.5" cam protect the top. I would not climb it without the gear. The climbing at the top is hard and the fall might not be clean without the gear.
Sep 15, 2015
Mid-size nut or small TCU sews up the top. Good route.
Oct 27, 2013
I would not call the wired nut for the finish "optional." Seemed essential to me!
Mar 24, 2012
I concur. A short, but excellent route. Harder than it looks. Thoughtful moves with holds facing the wrong way -- this is not a pull-n-go type of route. I placed a piece of gear a few feet above the last bolt to protect the last hard move.
Sep 13, 2002
Dan is the man. Another diamond in the rough.
Mar 5, 2002
- Dampened Enthusiasm
To add to the confusion on this tiny panel of rock, a fun contrivance (Wet Badger?) is to climb this route into the Badger Traverse at about the same difficulty as the Badger Traverse.
Oct 19, 2013
Don't waste your time on this route unless your trying to tick off all the climbs at Coney Island. Many of the Coney Island Classics sit a couple of minutes above this one. As for this route, it pretty much sucks. It's short, and I remember there being pretty sharp holds. I would recommend climbing this as a highball boulder problem with a bunch of pads underneath if you're gonna do it. It had a few burly moves on it to give it a 12a rating. If you're climbing at the grade of 5.12, go up and do Joy Ride and Der Letztze Zug, both of which are super quality and sustained routes....
Apr 6, 2011
- Der Letzte Zug
After doing this route last spring and then doing lots of other similarly graded routes over the past year, I agree that this is a total sandbag at 12c. Compared to something like Hands of Destiny, which is a similar style, I would say this is definitely a letter grade harder than that.
Apr 3, 2017
As with the previous poster, I don't think this is 12c anymore. Much harder than anything on Lucid Dreaming, Anarchitect, Twitch, Mighty Dog all 12c and/or 12d. Hell that first move was harder than anything on Milkbone, Ultrasaurus, and Snake Watching, all 13as.
Nov 28, 2016
Actually, Zug, in German/Austrian/Swiss climbing slang means "Move". The other literal translation of this word is Train. So if a German climber saw this, they would say this meant "the last move."
Sep 5, 2016
This is a nice TR after climbing Joy Ride. The climbing after the crux is great and maybe 11+. However, the crux (pulling over the roof and the next few moves) seemed absolutely desperate. Did some holds break? The right of the two crimps looked as if there could have been some recent breakage. To me, it seemed like there was no way that it was only 5.12, but maybe I'm just baffled by another weird Boulder Canyon crux. Anyway, it's a fun TR if you skip those crux moves. Several of the bolts were spinning, so we tightened them up with a small wrench.
Sep 15, 2015
The Last Train is the proper translation FWIW. German neighbor.
Apr 1, 2014
This route is mega classic and will give you a beatdown at the crux. Getting an onsight would give you instant street cred, and if you're one of those people who complain about BOCO being soft, I think this route will change your opinion. I have done many 5.13s that didn't have as hard of a boulder problem crux as this route. Very delicate feet with horrible, sloping crimps just over the roof, including a right handed crux sidepull. If you do this route when it's warm and sunny, give yourself a few extra letter grades for the send. I have found this route to be nearly impossible if it's over 60 degrees. Cold Cloudy conditions will make it easier....
Dec 3, 2012
On 3/28/12, the bolt on the crux clip (above the bottom roof) was loose. I finger-tightened but didn't have a wrench. There is also a rapid link on that bolt for bailing.
Mar 29, 2012
"The last pull" is the correct translation.
Dec 17, 2010
I think this is one of the finest sport routes in Boulder Canyon, definitely my favorite for the grade...not trivial.
Mar 8, 2010
Actually the name is German for "The last pull" or "the last toke" amongst other meanings...Jesse.
Jul 12, 2005
- Die Reeperbahn
Doesn't seem like anyone has been on this thing in quite a few years. I tried it today, and it's pretty licheny and needs to be brushed. Interesting moves until the last 2 bolts, then game on with some "barely there" climbing. Worth doing I guess if you have ticked all the other classics around it. Definitely an old school style of route though. If you have credit card crimp strength and are a "slab meister", then it might make you smile....
Nov 30, 2014
"Very thin crux" is an understatement!
May 8, 2010
I did this route in 1991 I think.. :) the crux is the last few feet at the top on very thin edges... all in all a nice route... Jesse Guthrie
Mar 7, 2008
- Feeding the Beast
If anyone knows the FA info, let me know and I'll edit it in. For what it's worth, my partner and I thought the crux was pretty stout (though brief) for 12b as listed in Bob D's book. Probably somewhere in between Joy Ride and Der Letzte Zug difficulty wise.
Mar 3, 2013
- Fly Swatter
I agree this route is awkward, the first bolt is high and tough to clip if you are short. Took a clean 12 footer from the 3rd bolt past the first. Any further would have put me on the ledge. I agree the 11a looks to be a better warm up. Does anyone know the name/rating of the climb to the right?
Apr 16, 2009
Definitely worth a star, and not a bad warm-up for the area.
Sep 9, 2007
I just did the route today. It was not what I expected at all. I thought it would be a scary 10c slab and it turned out to be a fun, slightly overhanging arete, with lie-backs on good holds. I guess it depends on your perspective. ;-) I'd vote to give it a star.
Sep 14, 2003
Let me respectfully disagree with Steve on the route just left. Although it may appear contrived, it is actually a fun short bouldery route and certainly not the worst route in Boulder Canyon.
Mar 7, 2002
Thanks for the response, Jeff. Some routes that are pretty bad: Both routes on the Upper Bowling Alley wall, especially the right one (as noted by yourself). A few natural but very lame 5.10-ish routes at the Sport Park. Most of the easier climbs at Sherwood Forest (apologies to Richard Wright). That's what I can think of in the 5.10 range in Boulder Canyon. Obviously this is my opinion and doesn't imply that others might not enjoy these climbs. I don't have any real fondness for Fly Swatter, but it fits in with the nature of the cliff which is short and sharp. For me, a real sport climbing bomb has got to include most of the following: clear disregard for any later climber's safety, including loose rock, poor protection (location, quantity, and quality), and bad anchors (quality and location). Clear disregard for surroundings, including contrived or squeezed line, dangerous base, and proximity to highway. Clear disregard for aesthetics, including poor rock, lots of vegetation and lichen, cleaning scars, lots of glue, chipped holds, constantly wet rock, generic or wandering line, big jagged features, and awkward climbing. Now a lot of classic trad climbs include many of these things as part of the experience so I'm restricting this to sport climbing. And it's true that Fly Swatter has vegetation, screwy protection, and a bit of lichen. However, it also has a striking, uncontrived line, pretty good rock, and interesting climbing. I might give it a star at most, but it doesn't seem worth a bomb. A true bomb has to, in its own way be as special as a 5-star classic and just as rare.
Mar 7, 2002
Fly Swatter is worth a star at least. It is fun. Technically easy, but kinda pumpy for being just vertical. Good warm-up. The 5.11a referrred to is of course The Bait. Now you mention it, just what is the worst sport route in Boulder Canyon? Once, after doing Fly Swatter, we tried the route just left, which seemed truly bilge. Seemed to be bolted just to avoid the obvious holds to left and right. Maybe this is one of the worst routes? Hmmm, actually some of the squeezed-in boltfests on Cornerstone or Sport Park must be worse.
Feb 10, 2002
Peter, I just came back to this crag to see if there were any additions to the site. Noticed your comment and thought you may share with us some other worse routes than this. I have yet to come across one sport climbing in the canyon, at least compared to the other 50-60 routes I have done here. Seriously.
Sep 25, 2001
I've done way worse than this. If you pay attention, it's pretty safe.
Sep 17, 2001
- Fly Trap
I also agree with Crusher about the anchor "crux" moves. I lead the thing, only to be staring at the anchor bolts holding a tenuous pinch 8 inches from the anchor, for what seemed like eternity, not knowing what to do, only to have no other option than to just fall off. Later, I realized I should have gone on past the anchor to the jugs to clip the anchor.
Apr 5, 2015
I'd agree with Crusher's assessment: the anchors are in the middle of the crux. Would've been a better route if the anchors were moved up and another bolt added beneath them. Otherwise, strenous and somewhat inobvious sequences.
Jun 14, 2004
- Gagger
I hung or fell on every one of the bolts on this route in March, 2015. They seem safe to me.
Mar 30, 2015
The anchors on this route are fine. One hanger is missing, but two still remain including a brand new one.
Jun 11, 2007
DO NOT SPORT CLIMB THIS ROUTE. IT NEEDS TO BE REBOLTED. They are coming out of the wall.
Mar 12, 2007
- Gagger With A Bone
- Give the Dog a Bone
Awesome route that is often overlooked. Fun moves down low to really good granite face/slab climbing up top. Not a route where you're gonna get pumped, but I found that you had to be dialed on the moves up high with some precision footwork throughout the crux.
Dec 28, 2013
What's the deal with the glued, left hand sidepull? It looks terrible and seems unnecessary. Thanks
Oct 26, 2013
Seems some people take .12d here on MP, and .13a on their 8a scorecard...hmmmm. I generally don't like these finicky kind of routes, but this is one of the better routes in BoCan. The handholds are quite good, but my left big toe got really pumped. I'm going with solid 12d or soft 13a...but I'm takin' 12d on the scorecard ;-)
May 7, 2010
Hi....about the bolts, there seems to be some questions...I first did the route with three bolts on the top half, but after a few people commented about hitting the ledge, I returned and add the one you clip from the undercling, before stepping left and reaching for the big undercling crack...I must admit, it was a bit scary, so thanks to those and their suggestion which made the route a nicer climb!
Jan 23, 2005
Thanks Bob, it is a terrific route! I agree that 4 bolts adequately protect the crux top half. Both guidebooks only show 3 bolts above the halfway point ledge and 3 below. Removing any of the 4 headwall bolts and reducing the total to 3 would result in potential ledge falls, and would be out of character with the rest of the route. I think that a bolt up high was missed in the initial count. Mark told me that he has not been on the route, so that may account for the error in his guide. In any case, the bolt number is 7, and they are well placed. All clips are from good holds. The difference in doing the route with the draws in place or hanging them seemed negligible. Kudos to Jesse for a Boulder Canyon classic.
Jul 12, 2004
Chris, the upper four bolts just about have to be original, otherwise there would be bad ju-ju up there. The lower three are similar, though I can see that the first bolt could have been dispensed with by using natural gear (which we all placed before that bolt anyway). Glad to see that you and Henry sent this puppy. Pretty fun, huh. :-) Cheers,bobl
Jul 12, 2004
Where were the bolts when you led it, Peter? there are now 3 bolts below the ledge and 4 bolts protecting the headwall/ crux. They all seem to be the same vintage.
Jul 11, 2004
That's funny about the bolt count. Are there actually seven? Both Rossiter's and Rolofson's book count six bolts. Was there a bolt added by someone?
Jul 10, 2004
One last note: there are 7 bolts.
Jul 8, 2004
Fabulous pitch. 1-2 cams in the hand sized range (2-3 size friends) protect the stretch to the first bolt after that the bolts are sufficient. The upper half of the route involves 3 short boulder problems separated by good holds with a rising pump.
Jul 8, 2004
A note on the gear. You need trad gear for most of the lower corner, which is more awkward than its 5.10 rating might suggest. There is also an opportunity to get something in just below the start of the crux. Get established on the ledge and comfortably clipped in. You can move a right for a short space on some good, horrizontal finger slots. Here you can get some thin gear in, but we are talking about Sliders, LowBalls, or small TCUs. This will get you to the next bolt. After that, just hang on to the good hands and hope that the feet find some adhesion. You won't find a place to stop after that, even if you wanted more gear. However, the upper section is well bolted and so clean that a fall catches only clean air. Watch the gear placed below the crux, these slots are keepers, and its easy to wanker in the thin stuff so you can't get it out. This route is cool, super cool.
Jan 10, 2004
- Joy Ride
A wonderful route and easy to access. Paired with late afternoon shade, it's a good choice for an after-work climb. I brought a small cam for the top (red or green C3) that took the sting out of the mantel move to the chains. Not a hard move, but your last bolt is down and around a somewhat sharp corner. You might think of bringing another small cam for before the first bolt, or stick clipping it as I myself dd.
Aug 27, 2017
Sorry but I feel compelled to speak up on this subject. No disrespect to anyone is intended. In fact this comment is all about respect. Adding bolts to some elses's route to make it less scary or convenient without getting permission from the FA'ers is bad style and disrespectful. PERIOD.... With the advent of sport grid bolting in Boulder Canyon, I can understand how this ethic is being lost or not understood by newer generations of climbers. In fact, it might not be understood by some in the older generations, but we should all respect others creations and routes that require mental as well as physical stamina in climbing.
Jun 9, 2015
First, a route is not harder because it has less protection. It is scarier and deserves more of a PG-13 or R rating, but harder is not what it would be, in my opinion. Also, Coney Island may have begun as a mixed crag, but it's a full on sport crag now with draws on most of the climbs. I think bolting a bolt on Give A Dog A Bone so you don't have to bring up a Cam is totally fine and not in bad style or form. That being said, I did not bolt the route and thank Jessie A TON for putting it up! Sick lines all of these. On the last guy that posted, the crux is definitely in the 12b range, no harder. The Pursuit of Frappiness has a crux that is similar in difficulty on Avalon. It takes some getting used to, but if you get the right beta, it's all about trusting the feet and working them up! If you want any beta on the route or anything, just e-mail me or ask! Good luck up there!
Apr 23, 2014
This route is way hard for me. Usually I can do 12b in a day yet I've worked this route probably four days and have yet to do the crux. I would argue that Lucid Dreaming and amazing face both classic 12+ have an easier crux than this, but maybe I just have shitty footwork. Nonetheless, this climb is fantastic and a must do for Boulder Canyon.
Jun 1, 2013
I found this route much easier than 'The Ticket', both similar with breaks, I am tall though.... A cam is nice before the first roof to assure the clip, we had nuts, but a #2 BD or small cam would fit in the area, several options. The fall how be it slight, might not be fun. ...Jesse's comment is funny, is a route grade harder because it has less protection?
Feb 18, 2013
Great route. Several moves where height helps a lot, including the bottom roof, a reachy move in the technical face climbing, and the final crux after the rest. Be sure to unclip the top draw if toproping.
Mar 28, 2012
Great route. Climbs the steep face on upper Coney Island just to the left of Der LetzeZug. This route is pretty sustained once you leave the ground. There is a burly move pulling the small roof around the second bolt with some continuous in-your-face near vertical, tech slab climbing with some nice, small crimps. About 3/4 of the way up is a flat ledge where you can get a no hands rest (take it cause you will need it) for the second distinct crux just after the rest. Awesome route, one of the better 12b's in the Canyon. Significantly easier than its neighbor. You may want to stick clip the first bolt or place a small cam in the crack given that it's fairly high on a technical slab.
Mar 23, 2011
Really enjoy this route.
Mar 8, 2010
This route was originally 5.12b, because when I first did the route there were 2 less bolts than now... someone adding bolts without asking... bad style... and it was a real sport climb... not just another Boulder Canyon Sport Park fiasco.... Jesse Guthrie
Mar 7, 2008
Super fun route. Some may want a wire before bolt #1.
Jul 8, 2007
Not quite Plan B, although still an excellent route at the grade.
Jul 26, 2005
- Lucky Strikes Again
Awesome route! Like it was made to be climbed! The tree is annoying though.
Jul 16, 2017
Great route, truly. Not sure what the latest is on it though.... We did it today and found that it's a 2 pitcher, great warmup staying in the 5.9 grade. Linking both pitches requires a 70m rope to get down in one lower, or else rap it. Draw count = 11 bolts (+2 for the anchors).
Dec 15, 2013
I didn't like the location of the 4th. bolt. A fall from here prior to clipping the bolt would give you a pine tree enema. The bottom section is way grungy, but climbing over the top 4 bolts was very good.
Mar 26, 2011
Wow...much harder (for me) than Runaway! Kind of a weird bouldery start w/ most of the holds seeming to go the wrong way. Lower section was OK, but the upper section (from the big ledge) was really quite cool. The bolts are quite well placed in my opinion...thankfully- as I tested the one at the top of the headwall. Didn't manage to get it clean (this time) and couldn't figure out the moves to get off the last ledge...had to cheat here as I was out of juice. We'll be back so I can work through this one and get it clean. A word of advice- I think that longer draws (like 17cm-20+cm) on the 4th and 5th (& possibly 6th) bolts would help reduce some of the rope drag I experienced. (as opposed to the 12cm draws I used throughout)
Jul 22, 2009
Probably the best overhanging 5.9 in Boulder Canyon. Fun and pretty clean now, I didn't kick off any choss on the lower section. Finding it's a little bit of a chore though. Just keep going around to the right side of the area.
Jun 26, 2009
Betsy and I finally went up and did this route today. Really fun!!! It is a jugfest with great position and movement, and the bolts are exactly where they should be. The bottom half looks like choss but climbs as well as the top. As for the grade, who knows, and who cares? I would send a 5.8 leader up there anytime.
Sep 14, 2007
The route seemed much easier than the last time I did it; Boulder Canyon 9-. I agree with Kyle; this would be a 6 or 7 in the Gunks: much easier than Thin Slabs Direct (7+) or Modern Times (8+).
Oct 22, 2005
Climbed this excellent new route on the east fin of Coney Island on 6/11 with Snipes, McClenehan, and Alkaitas. Consensus was BC 9- or Gunks 5.6. Good position and a quality rock, well equipped.
Jun 13, 2005
Worth doing but not a classic. The bottom half was a little chossy. The moves on the top half are great, although quite easy.
Aug 5, 2004
The upper section of this climb is a lot of fun, but the bottom part (which is shared with Pri-Moe) is not. There is at least one handhold (which is probably used by most people to clip from) on the lower part that won't be there for long. Be wary of the rock on the lower part.
Jul 2, 2004
This route is on the far right side of Upper Coney Island. The upper half of this route is enjoyable and climbs intimidatingly steep rock on a series of amazing jugs that if they were at the Sport Park you'd think were manufactured. The lower half seemed rather dirty, uninspiring, and, at one point, somewhat runout.
Jun 23, 2004
What a fun route! This website rocks! I would put in my own 2 cents regarding finding the climb, take the right fork, go past Lower Coney Island. Upper Coney Island is now above you. One could reasonably argue that this climb is on Upper Coney Island, just split from the main face by an upward traversing gully reminiscent of the ramp on Bell Buttress up to Cosmosis. To find No Name, basically just catch up with the Upper Coney trail after passing Lower, keep going right, staying close to the wall, the wall and trail will pass a low point and then turn left and head uphill to the north, finding the climbs shortly. We did the "down grassy" slope and ended up in Road Bomb City poking around the top of a roadcut cliff. To be avoided.
May 15, 2003
A steep, exciting and fun route. The crux headwall is height-dependent and may be harder than 5.9 for shorter climbers. I'm 6'2", and was just able to reach a key handhold to pull myself onto the ledge atop the headwall. A note on the approach: this climb and Pri-Moe are on a crag about 100 yards right of Lower Coney Island.From Lower Coney Island, head right and follow a path that traverses a grassy hillside to the crag, then head around the right side and up the hill a bit until you see the bolts. Steep, exciting and fun. Crux is height-dependent; probably harder than 5.9 for shorter climbers.
Oct 29, 2002
- New Fanatic
There is mass quantities of lichen everywhere, and crumbling holds through the crux. I personally felt this climb's crux was incredibly forced. The climb would be much more independent if it just went up the right ramp a couple more feet. You could skip the crux and then have good 5.10. FYI beware of the loose blocks on the start of the climb. Although not massive, they definitely could end your partner's climbing day.
May 8, 2010
- Pri-Moe
It's still shedding. Sewing this up: #3.5 Camalot, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, red Alien. If you want to make it a touch harder, move left at the obvious jug/horizontal crack and do the arete briefly.
Mar 16, 2013
Don't let the negative comments put you off. My partner and I both led this and thought it was well- protected and very fun. Perhaps it has just cleaned up a lot. May 2015 addition: I've done this twice now, and I think it's nearly a 3-star route. Yes, it has some suspect rock entering the crux (don't place gear in the loose, thin crack/pillar thing below the bolt...you can get a bomber #3 Camalot in the slot under the bulge just below this). Most of the route is reasonably clean, and the climbing is varied and fun.
Mar 24, 2012
That little chimney is really fun, you can completely stem out and rest for a minute.
Jun 26, 2009
Climbed it 6/11 with Alkaitas leading, who jettisoned some impressive loose blocks from the base of the chimney. It is a worthy line in my view, and really a trad route with a bolt at the crux.
Jun 13, 2005
Once this cleans up a bit more, I think it deserves a star (or at least not a bomb). There are some cool moves up the crack and through the slot. Heed Chris' advice about gear in the loose flake before the 4th bolt. If you have a #3.5 Camalot or so, though, it provides bomber pro right below the loose flake. In retrospect, the move up to clip the 4th bolt wasn't bad, but I'm glad I had some gear.
Jul 2, 2004
For many years, Bob has done an awesome job in opening numerous routes of all grades in the area. Unfortunately they can't all be gems, and IMHO this one falls into that category. After being bombarded with a steady stream of lichen, dirt, pebbles, and assorted other detritus, I got the coveted "second refused to follow! (or lead)." Maybe this route will clean up after significant traffic, but at present it is quite dirty. Some other minor points: the 4th bolt is placed too high to be clipped before beginning the crux stemming, necessitating small gear in a loose flake. Lowering the bolt would adequately protect the moves into the finger crack without having to risk ripping the gear in the movable flake. Also I'd agree with Kent's comment regarding the rack, in addition to small to finger-sized cams, I also placed #2, 2.5 and 3 Friends. Finally, why are the anchor bolts 4.5 feet apart from each other?! Is there another route planned beneath the leftmost of the bolts?
Jun 23, 2004
Make sure you bring Friends up to #3. This is not a sport route. It is well worth doing, but watch out for the loose block.
Nov 13, 2002
- Prong
- Quintet
Thought this would be a good warm up before getting on the harder sport but ended up taking some whips and having to back off. The Bocan 2nd edition also seems to have the topo wrong for this route. However I didn't know and started left in the short dihedral to a ledge and then up into the right-facing corners/roofs. I was shut down working into the corner beneath the large roof. This way may go but not at the grade (10c), and the gear would not be plentiful though a 0.3 I placed kept me off the ground a few times.
Sep 13, 2014
A friend and I did this in '96 following the topo shown in the current and last guidebooks. He thought it was solid 5.11 or harder and wound up taking a nasty fall at that roof/protrusion about mid-way up... the rock was a little scaly and the lower half that he climbed didn't appear to have been climbed much. Interestingly, the 1999 Rossiter Boulder Canyon guidebook topo shows "11" at one point in this left start, even though the route is supposedly 5.10c. We later checked in with Dan Hare, and Dan mentioned that the route actually started in from the right as for Coney Island, and that the guidebook topo was wrong. We came back in 2006 and started on Coney then traversed left (as shown in the photo above), and it felt about 5.10d or 11a that way and adequately protected. Maybe that left start shown in the guidebooks is waiting for a first ascent, though seems likely someone has done it that way by now?
May 19, 2013
We tried heading up the corner system, left of the bolted route in the above photo. I had trouble getting gear that felt solid, and the moves seemed way hard compared to other routes at the grade in the area. Got totally shut down.
May 15, 2013
It's nice to see someone else has problems with this pitch. I too got up to that roof and got completely shut down, and I ended up downclimbing and bailing. I'd be curious to hear if anyone has actually succeeded this way.
May 6, 2012
I'd like to hear more about the starts to this route. We started on the left, under the obvious small roofs, and got totally shut down trying to move up under the bigger roof, about 30 feet above the starting ledge. Poor hand holds and no feet...it seemed a lot harder than 5.10. Can someone who has successfully climbed it this way comment? Has anything broken, or am I just weaker than I thought? Wish we had thought to try the other option, starting on the right and moving left at the roof. That looks more doable.
Mar 24, 2012
This route does not start on the right.
Mar 1, 2012
- Red Badger
I've always enjoyed this boulder problem on a rope. It has been my standard Coney Island warmup for years. There's not much to it, unless it's at your limit, in which case it will probably get your heart racing for a few seconds. It's worth doing at least once.
Oct 18, 2013
- Runaway
A classic in my book! There are 2 sets of anchors. The 1st is about 40 feet off the deck, and the upper anchors are about 110 feet. Do not attempt to link both pitches with a 60m rope. A 70m or longer will do the trick.
Jul 17, 2017
Wonderful climb with big hand holds and good rests. Felt 8ish. Be super carful on the approach! Everything is loose and one wrong step and rocks good careening down onto the road. Not a good place for climbing parties! Thought the approach was slightly easier on the east side then the west. But, I did not find well defined trail on either side.
Aug 25, 2009
Fun, not the most obvious moves near the top off the ledge...difficult O/S lead for me (for what that's worth). Placed several pieces (small to medium cams) between several of the bolts, including a small cam & a BallNut above the last bolt for the move to the anchors. Did it again on TR to pull the rope...MUCH easier and more enjoyable the 2nd time. I'm confident that when we get back up there it'll be a much easier lead. The base area really is quite loose- sandy and sloping...difficult to get a good place to stand where you can see the climber.
Jul 22, 2009
Climbed this today after waiting for the snow to melt off the approach. Definitely worth a visit. There are many thought provoking sequences separated by good rests. I also placed a #1 Camalot after the last bolt. Thanks to whoever took the time to clean up this route! I had to park in the small pull-off that serves as the entrance to the parking/picnic area because the road down to the river was closed off with an orange fence. There is still enough room for 1 maybe 2 cars to fit safely.
Apr 24, 2009
Climbed this two days ago, incredible route. It really was a bit runout at times, but if you're a confident 5.8-5.9 leader, it shouldn't freak you out too bad. Great route, though!
Mar 14, 2007
I trundled the loose block just left of the first bolt today. It took only a slight push with my foot to send the block to the ground. There is now a nice flat ledge where the block was; this should make the move past the first bolt a little easier.
Oct 22, 2005
Ivan, Certainly the routes on Sleeping Beauty are great.Which 5.8 on Sleeping Beauty are you comparing this one to? There are few sport 5.8s around that are as good as this one. It is long with lots of climbing at a consistent grade. It gets full sun on cool fall days and no one else was there. I think it will be enjoyed by many. If you don't like it, don't go. I hope you did not use the convenience anchor when you climbed it trad.
Oct 19, 2005
Whether climbed sport or trad, this is no "brilliant route". It pales in comparison to, e.g., the trad and sport routes on Sleeping Beauty.
Oct 19, 2005
A silk purse from a sow's ear, Runaway is amazingly good given the nondescript terrain it covers. A reported 4 DAYS of cleaning brought the route to its current condition, which perhaps sheds some light on why our various vocal trads ignored the route until the bolts made it easy to locate. Note to "but there's gear" activists: this route would *never* have been done ground up trad (not because it isn't possible, but because death blocks and moss aren't appealing). Now it's going to get climbed every weekend -good job, guys. Stiff for the grade at the top crux - I'll call it old school 5.9+. Go do it.
Oct 19, 2005
A brilliant route in a beautiful setting. At this time of the year, it is in full sunshine in the morning. A classic fall day without a cloud in the sky complemented the route. What a find! Good job, Rick & Brian.
Oct 16, 2005
Climbed this route tonight. Long pitch, lots of easy climbing on good positive edges. But not sustained at the grade, one (8) move IMO. I placed a blue Alien above what I thought might be the crux move. Did throw a #2 Camalot high in the crack in the last 10'. FWIW, I would feel comfortable leading this trad with small wires and Aliens, and a #2, but I have no problem with the bolts, as I clipped them tonight. Without clipping bolts, this climb would be interesting for the grade. Will go back in daylight sometime to do just that.... One note...the breadbox-sized block 20' off the ground moved when I touched it, and if not removed, might injure or kill someone sooner or later....
Oct 7, 2005
I looked at the photo and thought, "This is a trad climb!" So today I checked it out on self-belay. The bolts were useful...to find the start of the climb, to know when to leave the main crack system, and to rap from. Other than that the gear was straightforward except when first leaving the main crack. There, the first piece was trick, and the next piece was a fair microcam with optional long sling over horn backup. After that the gear is again straightforward. The "this crag is all sport" excuse won't work, since there are, counting from Rolofson's version 1 guide, 5 all trad routes plus 1 variation here, plus there are 2 mixed bolt/gear routes, The Bait and Pri-Moe. The "needed cleaning" excuse won't work I think, since the FA party recommended bringing some trad gear (and so why not all trad?), and the cracks don't look like they were significantly cleaned. As for quality, ignoring the sport vs trad issue and assuming this cleans up some, I still don't get the 3-star talk. I think it's a 1-star compared to other 2-star trad and sport climbs in this grade on this site. As for difficulty - much easier than many Eldo 8s, and way easier than the Cozyhang (an alleged 7). Can't say relative to the 8 sport routes. Maybe comparable, but I can't remember the ones I've done so well. If you're going to do this trad, bring nuts from big brass to about 3/4". Cams from micro to #2 Camalot with doubles from about 1" up. About 18-20 slings, including 5 or more full length, since you'll probably be using more pieces of gear than there are bolts. If you're a beginning trad climber, consider bringing a rack and clipping every other bolt. The soil at the base is very loose and sandy. Tread carefully. Someone, the FA party presumably, thoughtfully constructed a nice but somewhat shaky platform at the base. There is a loose block that you'll be tempted to grab a few feet off the ground. It may be keyed in and safe, but it moves, so best to avoid it.
Oct 5, 2005
An excellent pitch; perhaps the best 5.8 sport route I've done in Boulder Canyon. Moderate climbing at the bottom which gradually gets harder the higher you go, with a crux around the 9th bolt. I placed a medium wired nut below the crux, and a #1 Camalot in the corner leading to the anchor. A 70m rope is perfect; you can lower and touch down with several feet of rope to spare.
Sep 27, 2005
- Twist and Shout
Sort of different beta and cont... From the break, left hand to good hold and match, then right hand to two finger crimp, left hand to undercling. Then I go right hand up to the gaston in the slot, left hand comes up to a sharp crimp just to the left of the right hand (this seems to be a foot hold and not used much). Go left again to the good pinch, some good footwork will make those moves easier. This beta may not be the best considering there were a few chalked holds out right I didn't use.
Sep 13, 2014
Okay...so obviously I got to the break in the climb! Then I enter the dihedral hold the left good hold. Go up right hand to a gaston undercling thing, left hand to the undercling. Then, I bump my right hand to the 2 finger crimp, and can get my foot around the arête! Does anyone know any beta from here or any alternate beta for this climb? It would be greatly appreciated!
Nov 11, 2013
- Under the Boardwalk
- Work It On Out
- Cornerstone, The
- Assault of the Earth
Squeezed and contrived 1 star route. Kind of silly when I somehow feel that I need to try and stay off of the holds on the Good Book and Mustard Seed. I could have clipped bolts on those as well during the climbing... classic example of BoCan gone wrong.
Jul 11, 2011
Best route at the cliff, though that is a very measured compliment...
May 15, 2008
As I recall, we found a chipped hold in the middle of the face above the 3rd bolt. Either chipped or a shallow scar from an aborted bolt placement.
Apr 19, 2003
Not a bad route, although quite easy to join into the good book, if you stick to the arete you will be o.k. with some feet on the face to the left of the arete, the move after the little roof seems to be the crux. A short route but great for a short days climbing, this whole crag actually. I give it 2 stars. May want to rap from this route, rope drag may be a factor.
Sep 13, 2001
- Forgiven, The
An OK route, I went with a taller friend and he found it more enjoyable than me, so maybe a bit better if you have a long reach. The bush is really awkward, as you have to climb through it.
Nov 22, 2011
And as a bonus, you get to climb basically through a rather large bush! Actually not a bad climb, but short like the rest of the routes here. You may wish to protect your first move off the ground with a larger cam if you don't feel comfortable with the looks of the start.
Aug 14, 2006
Pretty good.
May 8, 2003
- Good Book, The
Best pitch at the crag (I did not get on Repo Man after Victory in de Feet beat me into submission).
Nov 26, 2017
People are bagging on this route, and I suspect it's due to the controversy of the crag, but you should definitely get on it. It's pumpy and good the whole way. I won't give any moves beta, but I found two distinct cruxes split by non-trivial 5.9 climbing. First crux seemed to be getting off the ground, though once you figure out the sequence, it's not too bad. The second crux is at the roof, with the big pinch hold. I found it pretty strenuous to pop my feet over the roof and get situated in the finger crack. Two more moves on thin feet and you're through the business. All that said, it's probably around 10c overall and great fun.
Jul 12, 2014
Very nice route, and it felt like there was a lot going on in this short route. Tough start I thought - if you aren't a strong 5.10 leader you might consider stick clipping the first bolt or 2....
Oct 22, 2012
Agreed best route at the crag. Great moves and somethings always there when you need it.
Jun 10, 2006
One and a half stars maybe. Best route at the Cornerstone.
Jun 3, 2003
A great route for the 5.10 leader. The route is great as it is sustained from the ground up, the mantle is a great finish to the route, getting to the anchors. Perhaps a little overbolted (as most of the routes here) but clip what you want I guess.
Sep 13, 2001
- Mustard Seed, The
Fun and very well protected, but the rock is a little tricky to read. I would not recommend this to the new 5.8 leader.
Sep 7, 2014
I agree that this isn't a great BEGINNER lead, but it's a fun route for those beginners looking to push themselves a little. And it's pretty short and well bolted. All the bolts are in great shape as of yesterday.
Oct 22, 2012
Have to agree with Liz here. I have led many 5.8s and found this one to be pretty sporty for 5.8 (guess that's why there is a plus sign after it in the guidebooks). I actually found it more challenging than the supposed 5.9/5.10 climb on the left side. The climb is safe, though, because it is well bolted; so, have at it, but imho would be challenging for a newer 5.8 leader. But hey, everyone has different strengths and likes. An enjoyable, if short, climb.
Aug 13, 2006
I disagree with the comment that this is a good beginner lead. The start of the route was a bit sketchy, and I did not feel secure and was just following it. I don't recommend this as a beginner lead.
Aug 13, 2006
I have to disagree with everyone. I thought this route was terrible.
Jun 10, 2006
Enjoyable climb.
May 8, 2003
I agree that this is a great route for beginners, and it's also a pretty good warmup route for an 5.8.
Sep 6, 2002
A very nice beginner lead, easier if you start the route on the arete (right) it may make it easier to get to the dihdral. Other than this a very straightforward route, with enjoyable climbing throughout. Have fun... I give this 3 stars.
Sep 13, 2001
- Repo Man
I'm with Bubbster on this one. He usually downgrades everything, so if he says the move is 5.12, it surely is at least that. I've tried this several times, and I can't even figure out what the move is supposed to be, and like Tony says, it's not just a single move but a couple of hard moves until you get to a jug. The feet just seem non-existent. It's bolted close enough to French-free through the crux if you finally give in.
Jun 28, 2014
Try it when it is humid out. Felt like 5.12 to me and my partner then.... Triple clutching and deadpointing onto slippery slopers. Maybe the 'jug' is gone? I sure went off of some small stuff and had a series of moves rather than 1 move. Had more trouble with this thing than other 12s I've been on lately, but you could wander way off route and make it very easy. The whole cliff if pretty packed in and contrived.
May 15, 2008
I know Boulder Canyon grades are soft, but this route is stretching it a bit. It definitely has one tricky move, but that doesn't make for a 12a. Like almost all of the newer Boulder Canyon sport climbs, let's knock it down two grades. That would be a bit more honest.
Jul 25, 2003
Barely one star.
Jun 3, 2003
Sort of a one move wonder.
Oct 2, 2002
- Victory in de Feet
Yes, it does share a hold with The Good Book. I hate that when I was climbing it I was thinking to myself "is this thing on?" However, after that it has some fun and tricky moves. Plus this is a decent little wall in a scenic part of the canyon. I agree with the person above me, too many people are overly harsh on BoCan.
Sep 7, 2014
There's no way this gets a bomb. The crux is interesting and makes the short climb worthwhile. You guys are too hard on BC.
Jun 28, 2014
+1 Jason. One of the worst routes on one of the worst grid bolted crags in BoCan.
Jul 11, 2011
Jason, not to disagree with your overall opinion, but if this is the worst you've climbed in the Canyon, you have OBVIOUSLY NOT climbed there much yet. There are worse, and several of them. Wait until you see the manufactured routes... "I'll show you contrived."
May 15, 2008
Squeezed and contrived.
Jun 3, 2003
Also a one move wonder.
Oct 2, 2002
A decent route, although easily mixed with the route to the right (the good book) try to limit yourself just before getting to the obvious jug. (5th bolt) There is a 1/2 finger pocket for the left hand and a right hand crimp to get you up and left, below the jug, from here it eases, a good route, but perhaps a little squeezed in. I give it 2 stars.
Sep 13, 2001
- Couch Fire Crag
- Couch Fire
Peter Hunt and I did this route last Sunday. It's very short, 20 feet, about 14 moves long. The rock is a bit crumbly but otherwise pretty solid. Maybe not 13a but fun movement up parallel seams. Beautiful setting.
Sep 25, 2006
- Footstool
This is easier than the hike, but it was harder than 5.4 for me due to wet rock.
Sep 10, 2014
- Loveseat
You don't need to start on Sofa Mart. The direct start is fun and is probably V4-V5 to the first bolt.
Mar 8, 2013
"You do not need to touch the guano." I didn't touch it, but it was less than an inch from my face! A little dirty but packs a lot of fun for such a short route.
Oct 1, 2012
- Ottoman Empire
Matt Samet and I climbed this on February 3, 2010 thinking it was an open project. Good route!
Jun 24, 2017
The big (BIG) flake you come into around the 4th bolt was flexy, scary flexy.
Nov 1, 2014
Fun route. I'd give it another star if it wasn't so short. One tough move getting past the 2nd bolt then fun 5.10- climbing to the anchor....
Oct 1, 2012
Good climb; nice, smooth stone. Very bouldery!
Aug 17, 2010
- Recliner
This is a 5.10, but you have to think carefully about the moves before you commit to them. You can get to the top to set up a top rope without climbing the 5.4, but it is easy to climb if you want to.
Sep 10, 2014
- Slachar Cracker
This feels harder than Couch Fire.
Sep 16, 2017
Impressive. Good job. I put in the anchors and cleaned it somewhat, but it was well beyond my abilities. Hope some of the other routes serve as a warmup.
Feb 7, 2010
A great lead by Chris on a freezing-cold day. This crack is super-bouldery and much more of a 5.12d than a 5.12c; it's also cleaning up nicely. Climb up to the hand jam, load some thin gear, downclimb to the ground, catch your breath, gun it! Many thanks to Greg Hand, Bob D, and crew for the anchors atop the crack and their good work at this crag.
Feb 7, 2010
Great route name!
Feb 7, 2010
- Sofa Mart
The holds in the middle of this are "jugs", but the holds at the top and the bottom are small.
Sep 10, 2014
- Diagon Alley
- Dome, The
- Black Plague
- Cozy Dyno
- Cozy Overhang
Using the description above, I thought I was getting on this route. Turns out I was on Pussycat. Oh well.
Aug 27, 2008
Speaking from a competent Free Climber. It does not matter how we get there, as long as we get there. Using crimpers or the crack is irrelevant. These route descriptions are a general tool for people to get started. Thanx for your comment.JOEYT
Feb 23, 2003
Actually, you can climb this without crimpers. The crack is good. It is more entertaining than the normal finish and protects well. Go for it. (easy for 5.10a)
Feb 21, 2003
- Cozyhang
Just climbed this with my son for Father's Day. It's the 7th time I've done this route and still fun but seems to be harder than it was 25 years ago....
Jun 19, 2016
This gets a puddle of ice right after the first belay that doesn't melt very quickly. If you combine this with approach shoes and cold hands, it feels a few grades harder.
Jan 17, 2015
I linked P1 and P2, rope drag was minimal. I found it hard to protect the traverse, which really caused my second some stress. Something to think about if you bring a friend who's uncomfortable smearing.
Apr 22, 2012
One of the first ascentionists of this classic climb, Mike O'Brien, passed away within the last couple of years. I learned this about a week ago when on a road trip to El Rito, N.M., Henry Lester pulled out a collector's quality, Swiss-made, wood shafted, north wall hammer to pound in the tent stakes. After remarking on its beauty, Henry informed me that he had acquired it from Mike's estate. I doubt that when Mike bought this hammer as a young man in the '50s for his alpine adventures that he imagined that it would ultimately be used by two sport climbers to hammer in tent pegs some 60 years later, or even imagine "sport" climbing for that matter. But, he might have appreciated that some of his associations with climbing, whether that be his hammer or his super cool route, Cozyhang, have remained within the climbing realm.
Oct 14, 2011
This was only the second climb I had ever done back in Fall 1960, and I thought it was a real grunt fest. I managed the route well enough, but I've been back only once since and still don't care for the climb. It was still a grunt. Other than the E. Slab route, most Dome climbs are pretty devious. I've always preferred Cob Rock for Boulder Canyon elegance.
Sep 10, 2010
Back in the '70s, before it got so polished and slick, you could walk right up it, even in non-sticky shoes (Royal Robbins), that's where the rating comes from. First time I did it (1972), I was told it was a "tricky 5.6, just trust your feet and don't hug the rock". That's a pretty common occurence in high traffic areas. Look at all the holds in Eldo that are greasy with chalk, if you don't use chalk the rating feels like at least 1 or 2 numbers above the original.
Jun 25, 2010
I don't understand ratings in this area. I can usually handle 5.9 leads, but this one, while one of the best routes I've ever done, was psychological warfare.
Jun 25, 2010
Distinctly undergraded - more like 5.9 in my estimation. P1 technical move past overlap with polished rock, P2 very awkward, P3 a struggle. UK grade HVS 5a, 4c, 5a. More pigeons than Trafalgar Square!
Oct 28, 2009
For the second pitch we went right around the block from the first belay for some reason. This is a bit of a grovel up an easy chimney. Still ended up at the second belay spot below the devious P3 crux roof problem. I do feel that the P1 and P3 cruxes are 5.8.
Oct 8, 2009
I honestly felt getting over the third layered roof on the first pitch was a harder move than the crux roof on p3. Maybe because the pigeons living on the crack of the roof were rooting for me. The cozy belay spot isn't so cozy, but the traverse isn't all that bad if your careful.
Jul 24, 2009
I really liked this climb. P1 is the easiest one.... P2 is fun... have to downclimb from the belay stance. But not that hard, good holds and short. P3... well there is one move and I couldn't figure it out. It's not that hard but really awkward. Honestly, I pull on my rope to get over this, but I will got back and nail this one down.
Jul 12, 2009
I kicked off Boulder Canyon season today with the always enjoyable Cozyhang. The fixed pieces all seemed pretty solid (still, I backed most of them up.) A big thank you to whomever left the sling under the big roof. It made p2 much more enjoyable, especially for my second who appreciated not having to down climb.
Apr 8, 2009
Watch out for pigeons having sex on this rock. It is the pigeon brothel of Boulder. Sometimes it can be very frustrating. If you spit on them, they fly away.
Dec 8, 2008
This is the hairiest 7 I've done or seen, have had less flop sweat on a 10. Belaying the second pitch from under the big roof feels pretty exposed and heady for a relative beginner. I agree that the mix of moves makes for a great overall climb.
Jul 18, 2008
One glory of climbing is that we can all have different experiences on the same moves. Climbed Cozyhang for the first time this morning. The 3rd roof bulge on P1 felt harder than any single move on P1 of Werk Supp. I slipped off, got mad and cranked through second try. The top roof, however, felt like an awkward 5.6 boulder problem. Pushing off a right hand jam in the wall behind me made it casual.
Jun 28, 2008
The roof on the fist pitch is a bit tricky until you figure it out. Not sure about 5.7, but it's only one move. I have yet to be able to pull the roof on the last pitch. I have finished with the east slab. I about dislocted my shoulder a number of times..ha! Im sure it's all there but I just can figure it out.
Sep 20, 2007
This would get three stars if not for the pigeon shit everywhere...
Jul 4, 2006
Have climbed on the Dome many times and have introduced many friends to the sport here. Recall a time I climbed Cozyhang with a climber met on the bulletin board. I led all pitches and when we got to the top, he (forgot his name) flopped on his back and exclaimed, "5.7? No way!" I didn't mean to sandbag him. Another time, with Charlie, (a partner of many roadtrips (Castleton Tower, Shelf Road, Indian Creek, etc) and alpine climbs), we climbed Christmas week when there were many inches of ice seeping out of the crack at the traverse into the slot. I was glad I wasn't leading!
Mar 22, 2006
Fun route, although I like the Owl a bit better. I linked p1 and 2 - the rope drag was getting pretty bad at the end, but not unbearable. The traverse is kinda tricky, but didn't feel any harder than say 5.6ish (good pro before and after the hard moves). The second definitely needs to be solid at that grade. I've done the crux roof at the end several times now, and wow, it sure feels hard for a 5.7....
May 9, 2005
Not a whole lot that feels real "cozy" about this route. I would echo a comment above that even seconds need to be pretty solid because there are some traverses necessary that you just can't completely protect. Unclipping and downclimbing under the "cozyhang" belay is a tricky bit for a newer climber. It's all there, but a little polished and you can't always see your feet the way you would like because of bulges. Also that pin at the top of the final roof has got to be the mankiest thing i have ever seen. Should go any day soon and wouldn't trust it for anything important like maybe say, your life. Nice to be able and get out in climb in January at 65 degrees!
Jan 21, 2005
Damn I'm stupid. The crank part I was referring to just below the finish was supposed to be on East Slab. Forgive my idiocy and forget the bit about the rest ledge... It's on East Slab.~Wm
Oct 29, 2003
You are quite correct Adam. I apologize for not articulating. My point was that the feet are small and polished (a la pigeon) for the traverse and woe betide the second having to unclip the piton and downclimb to the traverse who is not lead-solid at a 5.7 grade. It is just a little spooky for anyone new to the grade, etc. When I mentioned the alternate finish, I was referring to the 5.10a/b crack-traverse that I believe Ben Mottinger has a picture of on The Owl. You may reach this by not passing it on the way to the last overhang of Cozyhang (there are what... five on the route if you include the starter overhangs...?). It takes immaculate cams in the 1-1.5" range if I recall and gives you a bit of a pump due to the lack of feet. That's what I was referring to, though I remember the bit JUST below the top of Cozyhang (getting off the rest ledge and up to the last 10 feet) was also a bit challenging for my girlfriend. Trust the rope, try something funky, and as James Garnett says, Crank, I tell you!!! ~Wm
Oct 29, 2003
Hmmm...I think you are wanting to say that the traverse is 5.8 while my comment was directed only at the overhang on the upper pitch. I'm not sure if I'd necessarily agree that this is too sandbagged at 5.7, but might make a note that it's a difficult 5.7. The upper overhang, however, is definitely harder than 5.7, going at what I would say is either a hard 5.7+ or tricky 5.8-.
Oct 28, 2003
After climbing this for the third time the other day, I'm inclined to say that the traverse is a bit sandbagged. At least at 5.7 anyway. I agree with Adam. 5.8 is my grade due to the size of the holds and moves. Rope drag can be a bit of a bear... If you have time, make it three pitches. If not, link one and two together, but make certain your rope doesn't get snagged in the notch just west of the 'hang. Anyone know the real rating for the alternate finish at the top of pitch two? I onsighted Blind Faith on the Bastille and fell on this. Maybe I was too pumped out from a recue performed, but still... If you choose to do this roof (which you ALL should), throw a cam in high, clip it, and go for the fist jam after two positive hands in the crack. It's a GREAT finish.~Wm
Oct 21, 2003
I think the roof might be sandbagged, but not all that much. I'd say it goes at a tricky 5.8 or 5.7+, personally, the crux being figuring out that your head is the most versatile piece of equipment in your quiver. I just put my foot out left on the good ledge, hands on the chalked flake and went left hand way up to the small v-slot, then jammed my head, right hand in the pocket, and right foot up. from there I could peek out, reach right hand up into the seam, and sort of squeeze with my legs straddling the arete until I could reach the bomber handhold at the back. It pumped me out, sure, but I thought it was just tricky, and you just have to stay balanced and not worry about things like exposure and pro (namely the fact that there's an ankle breaking ledge below your last piece you will surely nail). I've climbed easier 5.10's, though. Anyone try the 5.9+ on th eleft-side, I think it's called Gorilla's Delight? Whatever the second pitch is, that first .9+ corner is a bastard. Maybe it's just something with th eDome...
Sep 18, 2003
I agree with the last poster: tricky bulge on the first pitch. I'd also like to suggest that trusting the fixed pins here (and elsewhere on this route for that matter) is not such a great idea. My brother and I did this last weekend, I led every pitch, and didn't clip a single pin...many are have cracked eyes, and all are manky. Doesn't matter too much, though, as there is plenty of gear placements wherever needed. The last pitch's roof is definitely a sandbag at "new school" 5.7 -- but, if you get stumped, it eats up the gear and shouldn't be too tough to aid through if necessary with just a couple cams and some long slings. Great route.
Apr 17, 2003
I'd hate to see the sequence shot for that guy's maneuver. Makes my back hurt just looking at it!
Apr 12, 2003
I agree, this top roof is harder than 5.7 to onsight, but is maybe 5.7 after you have it wired. I remember the first time I cranked over the roof I thought "must be a good jug here if this is 5.7" - 30 seconds later I was still looking for it. You have to stem and use the feet well to get over this. The E Slab roof is also tricky for many beginners although at a considerably easier level.
Mar 3, 2003
Myke, I agree about the roof seeming harder than 7. Did it yeserday. Did The Owl and finished going up thru this "A" roof variation. It protects well and even has an old pin to clip up near the opening, which I backed up with a stopper. Once you pull up thru and are standing up there exposed, you realize there isn't much to work with except for the one crack which I threw the last two fingers on the right hand in and locked. Not much for the left hand to grab. Thankfully your standing on the chocked up ledge underneath. I placed a shakey .3 camalot in the shallow crack that probably would have pulled had I fallen, as my fingers began to slip from persperation while I pulled the rope for the clip and thought of a acquaintance who decked from there and broke his ankle a few years back. I managed to regrip and crank up enough to reach a knob for the left foot and a rest. IMHO it felt harder than its rating but it was fun nonetheless.
Oct 14, 2002
You can also link up pitches 2 and 3 with acceptable levels of rope drag. I remember having 2 pieces for the traverse, both with shoulder slings on them.... after scrambling left and then back right, the rope was straight down from me once I was at the roof. Why is this roof so hard for me? Maybe it's that old-school 5.7 rating... stupid old-schoolers, denying me my ego-stroking boost...
Oct 13, 2002
What a great, unusual route this is! When I first started climbing it seems I was always at the Dome. There are a few great moderate routes here. I remember thinking the bulge on the first pitch was so desperate... It still is non-trivial. A few years ago, with George Bell, I led this route in one pitch with no simul-climbing! Now this involved some SERIOUS rope drag! Why do this? We were trying to go fast and do this, the Owl, and the East Slab during our lunch hour. I'm not sure doing this as one pitch sped things up though. It's got to be one of the more ridiculous things I've done while climbing...
Jul 9, 2002
Great route! We did it in 2 pitches instead of 3. If you use long slings you can skip the first belay head right on up to the second belay ledge without the rope drag getting too bad. Watch out for bird poop!
Jul 9, 2002
You can easily lead this with just a set of nuts and hexes.
Oct 22, 2001
Did the 10a variation today with Charles--instead of exiting through the normal V-slot, take a hand crack angling right, just 15ft from the belay then continue to the summit via another nice crack.
Jan 1, 2001
- Cozyhang 10a Variation
I am 5'3" so the route is not height dependent....
Jul 2, 2011
I've done this one a couple times...the key is getting your feet in the same diagonal crack you are jamming - I was almost horizontal through the whole crux, but it really didn't seem to difficult, just pumpy.
Jun 17, 2011
It's 5 fun.
May 9, 2011
Finally got this today. You definitely need to be able to jam if you want to make it. I can't comment on the grade.
Apr 24, 2010
This seemed harder than 10a to me. I'm pretty sure that the new guidebook lists this as 10d, but I might be reading it wrong. I am very short (5'6"), and had to use a combination of hand jamming, dyno, and no feet to make it through the crux (which protects very well). The lack of feet made it feel like 10+ to me. Again, I'm short so this may not be true for everyone.
Mar 1, 2010
Hard for a 10a? maybe? I could not figure it out for the life of me. I guess I just suck at hand jamming.
Apr 28, 2009
No, not a double entry at all. This pitch takes a direct line out the roof above Owl Ledge.
Nov 16, 2008
Isn't this the same route as Cozy Overhang? It seems like a double entry to me...but I could be wrong.
Jun 22, 2008
- Cozyhang Alt. Finish
- Cozyhang Out
The only difference is after the roof. Pull out left over the right-facing dihedral at the first crack after the roof, then follow slab to the top.
Oct 23, 2015
I'm not quite clear how this differs from Cozyhang, which goes out the left side of the roof, on jams. How is this different?
Oct 15, 2015
This looks like the Cozyhang variation - double entry?
Jun 17, 2011
- Direct
- Dome Girdle
Did a version of this today. Called it the William Shatner. Good fun on The Dome for a potential rain day. We did not do the Cozyhang part. Instead we went up The Owl and traversed right across the diagonalling ramp on the East Slab to the far side. Was some silly fun. Do it.
Jul 25, 2013
- E of East Slab East
I'm with Arlo. The fingercrack is the crux (I'd call it 5.7), and there was plenty of gear on the slab. Fun climb!
Mar 20, 2012
The crux is the finger crack trending right, with fingers in the crack and smearing on the face, above the drop off for a little excitement. But bomber pro here. Didn't think the slab was runout...but I've been trad climbing for a long time....
Mar 17, 2012
Seemed pretty runout through the slab section to me. Probably only 15ft to easy climbing, but then another 6ft to some tiny nut possibilities, then another 6 to a bomber #2 Camalot. Perhaps I was off route, but I went up what I thought was a reasonable line to the black streak. Also, I thought the crux was in the upper half of the slab (the runout section), rather than the finger crack down low, where I didn't feel that I was smearing.
Sep 4, 2011
I started the direct start of East Slab, but when I pulled onto the upper slab and saw someone trying to toss topropes down the route, I cut right and followed the right leaning crack to the black streak and pulled the easy jug roof. This was 5.6 for the East Slab direct start and felt no harder than 5.5 for the rest.
Jul 11, 2006
The finger crack is the 5.7 crux of the route, and you do have to smear a bit. The other 5.7 part is the right hand-jam exit, protected with a 2" cam. A good variation to this route that greatly reduced rope drag is to get to the ramp and continue straight up via a series of right-facing flakes. This way is more sustained 5.6 (with less pro) but gets you directly to the black streak. The (harder) right exit ends with a sloping 3" crack, so don't be surprised. Great naturals for the top anchor, though.
Sep 15, 2002
- East Face, Far Right
- East Face, Farthest Right
- East Slab
I never intended to solo The Dome 792 times since I was 25 yrs. I guess when you like something....
May 31, 2015
I'm not exactly sure how the route finishes. It seemed like there were multiple ways you could climb the top part. All of them looked pretty easy but some a bit more runout than others for a new leader.
Aug 9, 2014
Definitely beyond doable in 1 pitch with a 60m. Crux was the start.
Jul 17, 2014
Climbed this on Father's Day with my son. This was my first climb in CO when I moved here many years ago & my son's first trad climb this time. It was also my first climb anywhere in about 15 yrs and first lead in about 17 yrs. A really fun climb, albeit a little scary in places for the grade. Getting off the ground is the hardest part, especially for shorter folks (I'm 5'9"). Protects well except for the section above the crack. I climbed extensively in the past and felt comfortable leading this, despite the long hiatus since last climbing. I would agree with some of the other reviewers that this might be a tough lead for 1st time trad leaders but only due to the difficulty of placing pro in the section above the crack. I never felt that there was much difference between 5.6 and 5.7 but could argue for either rating. It was rated 5.5 at one time, but that's probably a sandbag. I'd call it 5.6, but I might just be getting old....
Jun 25, 2014
Runout near the top could be reduced with small tricams in pockets. Didn't bring any, but I see how they could be useful if you are new to leading trad.
Sep 6, 2013
Unless I did another route by mistake, (I don't think so) this is a one pitch route, about 50 meters. Good route on quality rock. I think the crux is getting off the deck; the footing is a tad awkward.
Feb 16, 2013
Today I on-sight free soloed this route directly. Pulling the roof was awesome. Graciously grabbing both sides of an amazing horn of rock that points ever abruptly down towards the void, my soul told me to cut feet, so I released, stabbed the ledge with my foot and felt dynamic perfection, rested, then continued onwards to the finish. Despite my belief that cruxing is almost completely self-imposed, I think I inevitably had a few edgy moments when the cracks die, just for a few feet, where I had to trust my foot jams, rubber, and ability before running into horizontal seams. I believe these couple moves can be done with utter solidity with a few practice sessions, onsight however, I believe it will be a little precarious for most. All in all, very inspiring route, great rock quality with sweet granite movement.
Dec 15, 2012
Used to guide this a lot back in the mid 1990s, so got it totally wired. Once climbed it with my friend Doug in 24 minutes, car-to-car (and yes, we led and belayed the route normally). It was quite aerobic, as I recall.
May 28, 2012
This is a great route with varied climbing. It has good jams, a cool roof crank, some tenuous slab, and vertical stemming. Don't let the 5.6 fool you -- this rock is stout. I've climbed comparable 8s, and there's a short runout section that is spooky. The gear placements are available but tricky -- this is not a good beginner lead. Furthermore, the leader goes out of view of the belay almost immediately, and even if you do it in two pitches, communication will likely have to be done with the rope, especially if the river is high. As such, I recommend one pitch, since communication is a problem anyway, rope drag is not an issue, and p2 is super-duper short.
Apr 9, 2012
Quality route with different climbing styles and smooth moves. Can be done with one 70m rope.
Jul 22, 2011
Probably the nicest easily accessible climb in Boulder Canyon at the grade. I agree at 5.6, but difficulty depends on line taken. Can probably be done at 5.5 if absolute easiest line taken.
Sep 9, 2010
Did this today in a howling wind -- 65 mph gusts at Nederland. About got blown off near the top! Great route. Direct start felt 5.7 to me for the first 9 ft. The rest of the climb to the "roof" was no harder than 5.6 IMO. Belayed below the roof, then walked to the left side of the "roof" and climbed the "tall", right-facing dihedral (see pic). Climbing (jamming & stemming) over that 10' section felt pretty stiff for 5.6. After rapping back down (to retrieve gear) I went over the roof the 2nd time about 20 ft right of the tall dihedral, and it was just an easy step over.
Sep 6, 2010
Pretty continuous 5.6 the whole way. Holds and pockets materialize just where you need them, but expect solid 5.6 the whole way. I'd agree with maybe not doing this for your first lead as it can be a little heady. Do as one pitch, lots of extra rope w/ a 60 meter.
Aug 30, 2010
Did this fun little pitch today and scored a ton of gear. A #3 Camalot, a QD, and two biners', one locking. Made my day!
Aug 11, 2010
Jack Fisher solo's the Dome in Boulder Canyon Colorado in his tennis shoes. youtube.com/watch?v=Evwv3I6…
Mar 2, 2010
Came back on Saturday, to do this again. This is always a good refresher to Boulder area trad-climbing in the sense that it still has a fair bit of heady climbing above gear (for the grade). There is some (not much) pro above where the crack runs out. However, you'll need a blue alien or yellow zero or one of those new white tricams for one placement, or be prepared to be in a lousy spot placing a #1 Camalot. Especially for the latter, these will feel like psych pro if you're gripped. Which is funny because you can get some AWESOME pro right in the top of the crack, and the climbing isn't that hard in the runout section. Doubly so since the hardest move of the runout section is the one where you commit to leaving the crack. If you blow it there, you won't go far.
Nov 8, 2009
Very good climb. UK grade mild VS (just) 4b.
Oct 28, 2009
This can be done easily in one pitch with a 60m rope. Walk off to the east.
May 30, 2009
This was my first ever outdoor climb - I followed a friend and came back 4 months later to lead 2 of my friends. It's a great place to learn and offers enough exposure to get a beginner seriously excited! Also, I agree with earlier commenters that it's a great place to learn to lead trad. The beginning offers substantial pro, and the hardest move (about halfway) feels very protected. As you get higher it gets slabbier and easier, but chances for pro also dwindle (although they are still sufficient), providing a great feel for being on lead without much risk for first-timers. Overall, an awesome easy intro climb. (another bonus is it can be fairly easily protected with only nuts and hexes - good for a beginner rack lacking the more pricey cams)
May 23, 2009
This is a fun lead whether you're a beginner or not. And yes, the first move is 5.7.
Mar 23, 2009
** Protection Beta *** For Beginner Leaders: When the top of the crack gets very run out, look for a second vertical crack an arms reach to the right that will take a #4 Metolius or similar sized cam. This protects the route well.
Feb 2, 2009
A fantastic route...great climbing and bomber gear!
Oct 27, 2008
I've soloed this route about 20 times so hopefully I know what I'm doing, and Cleve McCarty taught me to climb so I'm more old school than anyone here except George, and this route is solid 5.6. A short person unable to reach one of the solution pockets would have to hand jamb the crack and call it 5.7. Excellent route.
Apr 15, 2008
I agree with Fred, my first leads ever were Wind Ridge, Calypso, and East Slab. Back in the day, these three climbs defined what I thought of as the grade 5.5 ...makes sense to me! I don't even know what simpler climbs you could have someone lead for their first lead that wouldn't be just a toprope problem.
Oct 22, 2007
Guys, guys. At (old) 5.5 difficulty, this route is tit. It just takes some pro-placing talent that the current no-mind color-by-numbers lead climbers can't get. The easiest line one can take up this part of the face certainly goes 5.5. There are many variations. A direct start w/o beta can seem 5.8. I am constantly amazed on how orginal standards are being dumbed-down. If you guys think this shit is hard, try going to the Needles in SD, Devil's Lake or come east to Cathedral Ledge.
Jul 10, 2006
This route is fun, but way over rated for the demand of use that it receives!
Jun 19, 2006
You don't need anything outside a standard rack; you don't need a lot of big gear. On 11/20/05 there were 4 parties lined up to do this route when we walked off "East of the Sun". Get there early if you want to do this popular route!
Nov 21, 2005
Did this over weekend, 1st time. Challenging right at beginning before crack. Crack is cool, then gone to a smooth slab with no holds. Always expect the unexpected - I like that! I dispute the rating - this is a solid 5.6 IMHO. colorado-hiking.net/dome1.html
Sep 24, 2005
I found this climb to be very enjoyable until you reach the end of the disappearing crack. Very dicey for the beginner because there is a twenty foot+ runout. The seriousness rating should be PG atleast.
Jul 2, 2005
Good route done in one pitch, belay at the tree at the top. You can tackle the roof at the very top or just move right and around it. The beginning felt 5.6+ and 2/3's up when the crack peters out felt 5.6. A first time leader probably wouldn't want that much excitement, otherwise it's a great warm-up for Cozy Overhang, etc.
Aug 21, 2004
George- a couple of easier trade routes in Boulder canyon are the Pine Tree route (3rd Elephant Buttress) and the West Crack (Castle Rock). Both of these are also 5.5, but anyone at their limit on either would feel sandbagged by this one, imho.
Jul 25, 2004
The route did not disappoint. Excellent quality rock and a really fun lead for relatively new leaders (like me) who are comfortable with a little runout. We had to leave a #2.5 tri cam that fell back into the crack somewhere between 20-30' up the 5.6 start to the route. It's a little too far back to get at with a nut tool, but if someone does fish it out, I'll give them $5 for it. Email me at silverbrothers@cs.com. Thanks and enjoy the route.
Jun 15, 2004
I felt sandbagged as a beginner follower and years later as a leader. You'd really have to have it worked, I think to go at 5.5 and most people don't. it's the kind of granite where your toe and finger have to be on the exact little crystal. Therefore, IMO, it onsights for most at .6 or better. Either way, it's recommended.
Jun 12, 2004
Led this again for the first time in 25 years. That's right, I'm an old fart. I first climbed the East Slab as part of the CMC IRCS class I took back in 1977. Thought a bit of perspective might be of interest. While I and my partners waited for two other teams to climb the route, I noticed everyone was heading straight for the tree from the top of the jam crack. Back in the 70s we had 150' ropes and belayed below to location, where another comment indicates to crank. Our 150' ropes wouldn't let us do the route in one pitch. The belay point is over to the left. To get there, we'd diagonal up and left at the top of the jam rather than taking the current straight up to the tree route. I know the route was rated 5.5+ back then. The current route doesn't seem much if any more difficult, but has a bit more run out. Anyway the route was still a bunch of run for this old fart. I wouldn't recommend it for a first lead, although (IMO) it's a better protected first lead than anything on the Flatirons.
May 8, 2004
A true Friday after-work classic. Hints: At the very top of the crack, a #4 Rock. Jam up high and then reach up way high and to the right (1 o'clock) and there is sloper mantle to a jug....next to the jug is good #5 placement. That way a direct line is taken and the slab sews-up.
May 4, 2004
Compared to Eldo or the Flatirons, Boulder Canyon granite always seems slippery and sandbagged to me. I don't really know what I'd rate the East Slab, but it is certainly one of the easiest routes in Boulder Canyon, I can't think of anything easier in fact. I do not believe it is a good "first lead" for a beginner. The rock is slick if you are not used to Boulder Canyon granite and it's not like you can sew the thing up. In fact on the upper slab seems runout to me, but at least it is low angle.
Mar 16, 2004
At the risk of starting a ratings debate, I'm adding a bit on this one. The primary difficulty that beginning leaders have on this rock is not that the moves are hard, but rather that they are not obvious. If you go slowly and pay careful attention to the climb---perhaps in a low-threat situation like following---you'll probably see that each move is quite straightforward, but that there is often only one rest stance at any point. It may be necessary to switch feet to be in the correct position to get to the next one. I'm 6'00" and there is exactly one place past the start where I find any need to resort to pure smearing with no handhold; a shorter person might need to make two such moves. At every other point there is a good rest stance (although some of them require thinner edging moves)---the kinds of things I expect to see on 5.4s. WIth that in mind, and considering that the degree of exposure should not inflate the grade, I feel safe in calling this a "fair 5.5." The trick is, of course, to wire the moves together in order to achieve that grade, and you're probably not going to be able to do that if you're jumping onto the route for the first time with no running beta. Note as well that the 5.6 start is like a microcosm of the entire climb: if you know the right things to do, it's 5.6. If you don't, then you can turn the start into a 5.8. (The key to the start is to not trust the chalk marks when feeling about for the correct place to jam.) This route a great example of one where a thoughtful approach will achieve more than a brute-force attack.
Mar 15, 2004
The East Slab is a terrific first time lead. The pro is great for the first half of the route. I used lots of cams (#.5 - #3), a few stoppers, and a couple of hexes. A little spooky when the fist crack runs dry, but in my humble opinion, the ample pro will give any first time leader the confidence to finish the climb. Fun! 5.7- start in the dihedral (maybe 5.6+) and 5.5+ for the rest of the climb.
Jan 16, 2004
If you don't belay from the tree, but rather the gash about 8 feet below and to the right of it, you can see your partner the whole time (once past the opening dihedral) and cut down on considerable rope drag. Its a third class scramble from there to the walk off gully. Save the trees!
Nov 14, 2003
Ok, the black feathers on my lips are from the crow I've been eating for supper... Looks like I was having a bad day back when I upgraded this one. Climbed it a week ago and put four pieces in. I was going for a speed ascent... If you just let the inhibitions go and throw big moves for fun, this is a 5.5+. How's that Smaller? Try it again and look for the awesome feet. If you're having trouble with the end of the crack proper, stack your feet until they can go no higher and look around for pockets. Just for the joke-record, my ascent time was :10 + or - a minute because I was fiddling with cams and having too much fun... Bummer...~Wm
Oct 29, 2003
Lead this one yesterday and was definitely humbled. "A mere 5.5," I said to myself. Should've checked the beta here first! I took the direct line after clearing the dihedralon the right side. The crack really does vanish in there somewhere (things are a little hazy) but there are a series of acceptable finger and toe pockets and diagonal fracturesspaced every fifteen feet or so. Traversing left on the top one and then back right under the roof might well yeild an easier route, but I was concerned with rope drag. Pro is good (smallish and medium cams and a couple nuts/hexes/tricams). Still, a south-facing wall in the hot noon-day sun and no chalk made the hands slipperier than I like, but the feet are solid. All in all, an exciting, fun climb with reasonably good gear and great exposure. I'd have to lobby for the 5.6 rating, rather than the 5.5 presented in various books. Not my first trad lead by any means, but certainly one of the more exciting ones.
Aug 25, 2003
Very true, William. The footwork on this one makes it a good climb for "intermediate beginner" climber types who are ready for the next challenge, not for first timers wondering what trad is all about. I recently led this with only one good hand (the other too sore from a horked tendon) though, which was a good way to reinforce just how solid the feet are---although it made those tricam placements a little sketchy.
Aug 6, 2003
James, I suppose my reply would be that you're correct: there IS always a fingerhold somewhere and there are pretty good stances for gear placement (that is, WHEN you place gear...), but in the one really tricky part about 2/3 up the route, the holds have potential to FREAK out a beginner. That's all I'm saying. It's not impossible and it certainly ain't-not-fun, it's just a tad dicey for the first outing. I was the last climber on one rope (simuling) the first time I did this guy and never felt uncomfortable, but it did make me a little nervous to lead the first time. And crank I shall!WM
Jul 28, 2003
Hey William, you must've been having a bad day or been seriously off route; this one is a fair 5.5 after the start. True, the disappearing crack disappears, but the feet are always bomber, and there's (almost) always a bomber fingerhold within reach---and anytime you need to place pro you have a rest stance.I love turning the little wannabe roof off the flake at the top! Crank! CRANK, I tell you!
Jul 15, 2003
Great route. I was just wondering why you'd do it in two pitches?
Jun 24, 2003
Excellent Route !!! I climbed it for the first time last Saturday. Ample pro until the crack finishes. I recommend climbing it in a single pitch (the Belay station is awkard and hard to protect .... at least I thought so !!!) Not a good first lead .... leave it for your 4th or 5th outing.
May 5, 2003
Fun climb. I did this route as my first climb on real rock a couple of years ago and found it a little scary in parts, returned to it recently and of course it was a lot easier! Amazing how the rock had changed...I would rate it as a good beginner climb, but maybe not the best for ones first outing. The 5.6 start is a little tricky and unless u can trust your feet a bit, things get disconcerting when the crack runs out, though only for a couple of moves. Turning the roof can be a little intimidating for the beginner as well. But great climb. Only wish it was 3 times as long!
Mar 22, 2003
This is a great climb, it was my first lead trad climbing and was really fun. About half to two-thirds of the way up the climb there is a diagonal ledge that traverses a little ways to the climber's left; this is an easier way to climb the route (and probably the right way). I went straight up without traversing and got pretty nervous because of a tricky move to get up to a spot below the final roof (which is really easy). I hope this helps someone to avoid that situation (which would be scary if this is your first lead...).
Feb 27, 2003
To tell you the truth, the start and last third of this route are incredibly sandbagged. I'd give the first 15' a good 5.7+ or better and the last bit 5.8 due to the size of the finger crack. Bad beginner lead and rather daunting for a beginning cleaner as well. Don't hit this one up unless you really know what you're doing.
Feb 8, 2003
Liked the route. Not a good beginner lead. Holds are sparse at some points near the top of the crack. It just peters out. Interesting start and a fun route overall.
Nov 23, 2002
Great climb! Perfect jams and some fun moves down low, I only wish the crack was another 100 feet long! Once the crack ended, I aimed for a small tree on the top, pulling on a large flake with bomber holds to gain the roof. Lots of variations possible once out of the main crack. Fun!
Nov 25, 2001
An excellent route on high-quality rock. A great beginner's lead with the opportunity to place a good amount of pro for practice. A bit runout towards the top, but climbing is easy and there are a few places for pro, if need be. Enjoy!
Jan 1, 2001
- East Slab East
I typically attempt to refrain from providing such comments, but, beware, if one follows the line shown in Rossiter's book, this climb is VERY run-out above the crack which peters out. It's not difficult climbing, but it is technical. I would not recommend it as a beginner lead. East Slab is much more protected on the slab than East Slab East.
Mar 29, 2009
A bit of information about this easy climb. Yes, the East Slab is a 5.6, as 90 percent of the people who do this direct start will confirm. However, do not be fooled into believing that this is a good first trad lead in the Boulder area to attempt. If you are new at placing gear, mixing up crack and face climbing, or taking a few unscheduled run outs, extending draws to avoid rope drag, you'd be better served going to Eldorado and climbing the more consistent but technically harder Wind Ridge or Calypso. With that said, this climb, now often done in one pitch with a 70m rope is on firm clean white granite and provides a varied climbing experience.
May 26, 2008
This is a surprisingly difficult route to identify based on the guidebook. We had a little diversion which could best be described as east of East Slab East (oopsies) which was still a fun climb. The advice here to spot the disappearing crack should help.
Nov 24, 2006
- East of the Sun
WTF! I climbed this today, and when leaving the belay 'chair' after pitch 1 and starting the traverse, there are two saw marks! They form a V, slightly backcut, apparently for a small nut!
May 1, 2014
Done in one long pitch today.
Jan 22, 2012
Hmm. I ended up climbing directly to the right of the roof and into a squeeze chimney. Was pretty fun. Strongly recommend using long slings for this route as rope drag is a pain otherwise.
Jul 22, 2011
P2 is described in the Rossiter guidebook as a short traverse east, a couple of moves up a left-slanting ramp, and then "tiny holds" on the face straight up to the exit roof. Climbed the route on 3/21 with S. Costello. They are indeed small holds (mostly lichenous pockets and slopers) and there is no protection for a good 20-25 feet. It didn't look like anyone had gone that way in some time. The climbing on the East Slab crack a few feet away is better protected and, IMHO, a lot more fun. However...the exit roof (not the East Slab flake exit) should not be missed. It involves a slightly wild move before groping for a big ole jug and is the highlight of the route.
Mar 23, 2009
I second Matt's comment. This is an excellent route done in one (nearly full) rope length pitch with a 60 meter rope. Also, the finish is the first major crack left of the East Slab Finish. The gear is good enough in the slabby sections to prevent serious falls. I placed a pink tri-cam in one of the huecos and a tiny bd nut in the horizontal (slightly inclined) crack midway up the "second" pitch.
Jul 11, 2008
We did this in 1 long pitch (awesome!). Using longer slings on P1, I never felt any rope drag. Have your communication dialed as you most likely will not hear each other after the leader tops out. Medium nuts and hexes and small/medium cams work well on this one.
Mar 25, 2008
I totally got off route the first time I tried this and went up the chimney instead. No pro in that but way easy. Tried again with the guidebook and found the line to be directly to the left of the crack on the East Slab. I've even placed gear on this route when doing some wandering leading the East Slab. The gear looks (and is) sparse, but there's placements in all the right places. Bring a red #1 Camalot for the hole you find halfway up. The crack at the first belay station ate one of my stoppers, rapped down, jumped on it, and it wouldn't budge. All in all, this is the easiest 5.7 on the Dome but very fun, on route or lost.
Aug 16, 2006
Wow, lots of fun! If you belay from the base of the right-traversing handcrack that starts P2 and extend from the anchor, you can coach your second through the P1 crux. P2 climbs the handcrack up and right a short ways, then straight up a funky uneven crack until it ends (#8 Powercam fits here). Climb slab with pockets to the left angling crack (small cam fits here) then up more slab with smaller pockets. This pitch is completely distinct from East Slab. I've drawn the line (more or less) on a copy of Gary Schmidt's picture, showing its relation to East Slab.
Jul 11, 2006
In re-reading my p2 description above, it should read follow the hand traverse a few feet east instead of north. This traverse is found a few feet below the belay. Fun climb! A number 4 cam is also comforting for the final 5.7 crack/roof thing.
Nov 25, 2005
Did this one on Sunday and thought that it was really good! The first pitch was easy to figure out and the description of P1 above is great. P2 was a bit more ambigious. I followed Gary's recommended line and I though it was fantastic and not too runout. I was able to place a #2 and a #1 in the horizontal crack (at my feet) before going on to the face. Also, the crack at the end is awesome, don't take the easy way out and head over to the finish for disappearing crack, you'll miss some great climbing. I would recommend being solid at the grade as you'll have to do some hunting to find your way to the top, but you can always wimp out and do the disappearing crack finish. :)
Nov 21, 2005
I liked p2 quite a bit. Got in a few pieces of pro towards the start, plugged in a number 1 cam (I believe) at the left sloping ramp, and then scrambled up the slab to the top of the East Slab route. I didn't feel that slab climbing was 5.7, certainly it wasn't as hard as the crux on the first pitch. Rather than go up the fun flake at the top of the East Slab, I went up the crack to the [left]. Fun! Don't know what it was rated in Rossiter, but I've heard it was 5.7, and I'd guess it's around that level. Excellent pro and a fun problem.
Jul 24, 2005
For those who may still be wondering I believe p2 goes as follows. From the first belay find a hand traverse crack and follow that a few feet north. Then head up the friction face(about 10 ft left of the east fact crack) with some nice finger pockets until you come to a narrow left rising ramp. Traverse left along the ramp about half way then head up the face on some smallist holds (5.7) until you gain the bigger ledge. Find the obvious crack through the overhang about 15 ft west of the East face (aka Disappearing Crack) roof and jam up the somewhat intimidating looking crack (5.7). From then head straight up to the top. Of course, variations are possible but i believe this is the standard route. Fun climb with some nice variety.
Apr 23, 2005
Hey Scott, I think I ended up doing the same finish as you, didn't know that that was the East Slab crack though as this was my first time on the Dome. No matter what it was a blast!! I ended up going up and over the roof almost directly below the tree with the massive flake and a good right foot. You are correct where it looks like it all goes on the face, I think there was a smaller crack to the left that the actual route follows but who knows, it looked a bit shorter with a longer runout. Does anyone know where the correct P2 of this climb goes?
Oct 13, 2002
Question: does P2 of this route end with the East Slab crack? From the belay chair, I traversed 10 ft right and the logical finish was to jump into the East Slab crack (luckily, right where the fun climbing begins!) I looked around for another crack, but all I saw were small seams which looked pretty incipient, i.e. wouldn't take pro well. However, it seems like you could go almost anywhere, just banking on if you can get gear or not; any suggestions? P1 of East of Sun/Cozyhang is a full on one-move wonder---but definitely tricky and 7ish. Good route!
Aug 3, 2002
Variation for P2. Instead of traversing right from the belay, head up and take the crack just left of the belay. Pop out of the chimney and make a few blank face moves. Head up to the slightly overhanging, right facing corner and jam through it to the summit.
May 30, 2002
- Evening Stroll
The route was a bit more contrived than I was expecting, especially for one put up in 1970...approximately 4 years before Prelude to King Kong.
Dec 9, 2008
- Familiar Face
Steve led this pitch. He already had his eye on it. He named it for Konnie Self, who was climbing with me that day (Dec. 3) and whom he had known years earlier.
Nov 1, 2014
- Gorilla's Delight
Gear tip: the crux move of the second pitch, which is the second vertical crack system, has a PERFECT C4 0.75 placement right under the lip. Right as you start up the crack if you look up you will see a little "hole" in the rock on the lip - a green C4 stopped a fall on the crux move flawlessly there.
Dec 10, 2015
Are there really music fans who think "Paul McCartney's first band was The Wings" ???
Feb 16, 2015
Funny back at this climb 6 years later: now the lower part (getting off the belay) was hard and then the rest felt easy. I just went right up over the second crux without thinking...last time took a nice fall there and felt totally insecure and pumped. Guess I haven't been crack climbing much lately.
Feb 15, 2015
The fixed nut is gone, but plenty of gear can be had. It is pumpy to place, but you can easily downclimb to a no hands stance before committing to the final right foot move which is insecure for sure. I think the grade of 9+ tells you everything you need to know as a leader. Linking this with Prelude in 1 pitch onsight would be proud! Kind of like a bunch of boulder problems split by easier climbing. Bring some crack skills, too. Beta hint: There is an arm bar pulling the lip of the first steep crack section.
Mar 27, 2011
This climb is yet another example of 5.9+ being way harder than 10a! Jokes aside, I think the grade is appropriate at 9+, but all of the cruxes are insecure and therefore scary. The gear is good enough, but the climb is hard enough to read that you end up filling up key holds with pro if you aren't careful/lucky (this refers to the King Kong start as well). The fixed nut is still in place at the final crux, which definitely makes this thing easier. It's probably only a #3 BD, but it practically gives you a toprope through the crux, and would surely hold a short fall. Committing to that right foot as you rock onto the final slab is a real mental challenge. I was pretty psyched to grab the jug after that section.
Mar 13, 2010
Like every other climb on the dome, Gorilla's Delight is a sandbag. The upper crux is at least 10-. There is currently a fixed nut (which I did not place) in situ at the top of the second crack (after the slab) which protects the crux very well. And it works, as I discovered. After falling a few times off the slab moves above the crack, I decided to belay my second up to the outstanding hanging belay right below the crux, from there he could coach me through the tenuous moves out of the crack and onto the slab. Fun climb! Probably the climb that wanders the least on the dome!
Nov 18, 2009
Man! What a fun route, it got me pumped though! I found the crux to be the transition from the arching crack that narrows to fingers and tips to the slabby finish, took a 15 footer! I eventually managed to do it. I found this to be harder then the 10a variation to the second pitch of The Owl.
Oct 7, 2009
I also thought the second crux on GD was harder than 9+... although I've felt like most the routes on The Dome are slightly sandbagged, I was cruxing hard, well above my gear, going from the lie back onto the face below the belay crack. Great lead!
May 28, 2009
For those trying to onsight don't read further: My gear was as follows: #1 (Camalot) in the crack above the belay, then #0.75 or smaller cams/nuts after that in the dihedral. #1 or 2 (with a long runner) in the same crack once you gain the slab, then a #2 to start the second crack, #0.75 higher, then a great, mid-sized nut and yellow Alien just above the lip right before you set off onto the slab. After that I found it pretty hard to place gear...though you can place some difficult small nuts and a green Alien (yellow-green offset would be perfect) if you can find the time to stop. If you want to TR the cruxs...I recommend setting up a belay right after the 2nd crux. Mid-sized gear in the horizontal or #1-#4 in the crack above. This way you can see your second and avoid rope drag on the easy slabs above. In fact it was nice to run laps on the two cracks.
Feb 7, 2009
The thin 'alternate' crack out left at the second crux seems more 5.9+ than the main crack to me. I did climb this after many months solely in the gym bouldering (so crack climbing felt alien), however I thought the second crux was a 5.10 move to lieback, smear, and gain the jugs. Sure repeating it on TR afterwards it didn't feel that bad, but trying to onsight this climb is pretty difficult if you are thinking 5.9+ (and you climb around that grade on trad). Think OLD school grading, make sure your gear is bomber, and relax on the slab (unlike me). Actually repeating it on TR it still felt like a 5.10 move to me and the left crack felt easier - though it would have also been hard to lead. I took a nice long fall with my hands about 6" from the jugs...with rope stretch landed on the slab between the two cruxes below - but not hard. Make sure you place good gear before committing to the slabby 2nd crux, because it is very insecure, pumpy (not really after you know the moves though), and a long fall if your gear blows here as Doug mentioned. Basically I got my ass kicked. At least I went for it (with good gear placed) and took the fall. Overall, a great little line...kind of like two crack boulder problems in a row. I'm not really into free soloing, but leaving my personal feelings aside you have to give the man some props - because that is BOLD even nowadays to onsight.
Feb 7, 2009
This thing felt harder to me than some Eldo and Valley mid 10s!
May 19, 2007
Great finish for Prelude To Kong, but expect it to be significantly more difficult. I found the crux to be in the corner above the traverse right, where you roll onto your right foot after a fairly sustained lieback. Really not that big of a deal, but it is a bit heady - as you are committed a few moves above your last piece and a good 5+ feet from your next one. It felt 9+/10- to me, but I think a second go at it would prove that the 9+ is more appropriate.
Jan 26, 2006
We climbed this tonight and I led P1 and followed P2.On P1, the first move up and around into the dihedral isn't too bad... good holds. The next move is more cruxy and favors taller folks, with decent holds way up high, but not much for feet. My shorter partner,could not reach the high holds and settled for working the thin crack, which is good down low but off hands higher. Once past that move, easy climbing to a ledge.The start of P2 is cool...yard up off the ledge using a good little flake out left and the crack to the right (a bit smooth from chalk build up) to a pretty airy stance. Work up the overhanging corner over a bulge and exit right. Make a delicate traverse right (runnout) over to a nice flake and mini ledge to start the layback. Work up the flake (crux), smearing the feet and reaching left for a high seam, then step up. Follow a wide crack a short distance up to the summit...
Oct 15, 2003
Henry's still around. I saw him doing solo laps on the Dome's E. face couple years ago, like he was at the track doing 400 repeats...finish, go back do it again, like 3 times. I was surprised when I ran into him again last month on Reggae, and he was actually roped up.
May 29, 2003
As I'm sure many of you know, "Hot Henry" Barber on-sight free soloed this in the mid-1970s and, according to his account, came closer to taking the big one on it than on any of his other solos. When climbing GD this is easy to understand- a difficult start into thin, insecure climbing, and a bit of routefinding on the slab. Henry stated that, in retrospect, it was a poor choice for a free solo, but his approach at that time was pretty much to "do it and ask questions later", so to speak. I always found it curious with his comment that, when confronted with the possibility of a fall from the slab 100+ feet up, he scanned the ground and tried to picture where it would be best to land- as if a fall from that height was survivable. Henry was perhaps the most impressive and accomplished of the 1970s free climbers, and unquestionably had the greatest influence on world-wide climbing standards of any climber at the time. He was one of the first climbers to travel widely. His style was to show up at an area, and blow the local standards out of the water. In one trip, he single-handedly jumped technical standards in Australia by more than a number grade. Other accomplishments include succeeding on the often-tried Butterballs in Yosemite (a climb that everybody who was anybody had attempted) with an almost mystical onsight, pre-camming protection; blazing a trail of desperate first ascents in the Gunks; onsight free-soloing dozens of routes on many different rock types, up to hard 5.10, at a time when the 5.11 grade was only starting to soldify; and blowing the climbing world away with his free solo of the Steck Salathe on Sentinel in Yosemite. His repetoire of moves, creativity, and problem-solving abilities, and his tremendous self-confidence and mental control, set him apart from his contemporaries. In the 1970s Gunks, he was an integral member of the "A Team" quartet: Henry, John Stannard, Steve Wunsch, and John Bragg. Unfortunately, his career ended on a sour note after an epic accident with Rob Taylor on Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. The press was always a bit harsh on Henry, perhaps due to his brash personality (a little backstabbing occurred in the original CLIMB! book when the only photos of Henry were of him failing on Kloberdanz), but his significant contributions to freeclimbing standards are undeniable. I find it curious that many young climbers have never heard of Hot Henry- kind of like music lovers who think Paul McCartney's first band was The Wings.
Sep 13, 2002
Nice climb, though the 2nd crux is definitely balancey. One month after I led it (in 1997 or so), I went back with a different partner. He fell at that spot, pulling his gear, and landed on the ledge 25 feet below. He fractured a rib, broke his arm, and sustained a head injury (no helmet). We needed help from Rocky Mountain Rescue to get down the hill below. Place good gear at this crux!
Sep 12, 2002
I had a memorable epic on this route once. Doing this 2 pitch route after work one evening we got caught by darkness. Good idea to throw in a headlamp for this one if you are starting after 6 PM!
Jul 23, 2002
Can you imagine soloing this in EBs, RRs or anything before that? Wow, Henry. I was trembling, and I had gear!
Mar 5, 2002
- Groove
Mike, did you do this route as you describe it? I gather from your route description you did not but simply added it to the site based on Rossiter's description? I'm taking that on the fact that you list the gear as "no gear for the crux move from the looks of it". If you did do it, I'd love to know your 5.10d beta as I thought it was pretty much 2 number grades harder than that. I spoke with Mark Wilford (reported first ascentionist) and Richard Rossiter (guidebook author) about this route, and they both said the same thing. What's listed in Rossiter's guidebook as "Groove" is actually the route listed as "Pussycat" as well, meaning the two routes are one and the same and the redundant route listing in the guidebook was an accident. To do "Groove" as described in Rossiter's book (route 12b on p12 in Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon) is somewhere between a 5.12 and 5.13- dyno, depending on your height. I'll add it to the database later with the corrected beta etc.
Feb 27, 2012
Has anyone actually climbed this before? My partner and I decided to climb all the roof routes here today and I could figure out three. 1) Cozy Overhang, which is about 5 feet to the right of The Owl corner/roof. 2) There is a dike/groove going out the very center of the roof. There is an old fixed pin in the back of the roof and the ceiling is choss, but there's a distinct "U" cut out at the lip where the dike runs up and left. Is this Groove? 3) Pussycat is on the far right side, basically where the roof ends and the rock goes into the chimneyish crack next to East of the Sun. This route cuts hard left along a seam and around the corner to a left-angling crack/ramp. 1 and 3 matched their descriptions well, including their grade. 2 seemed like in the right location, but definitely not the right grade. We got on all three today and the center one is ridiculous. It's a massive, basketball-style dyno from the slab to the lip where a sloper jug awaits, then a funky mantle. A fall from the lip, at least how I mantled it, is asking for a head-first digger onto the slab below. Super "R" if not worse if you botch that. Hell, even the jump is "R". Mark is a mega-strong beast, but he's not exceptionally tall and so the dyno seems unrealistic (especially at the 10d grade) for his route Groove. Also, the roof is chossy with exfolitating flakes and no real holds, so there's no option of getting horizontal on it (especially for the grade). So the question is, where's the route Groove go? Rossiter's description places it exactly here, but I can't imagine that it's correct. I could easily have seen him do either Cozy Overhang or Pussycat and called it 5.10, and then the location of the route got lost in translation in the guidebooks. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
Feb 18, 2012
- Left Edge
Agree you should do this in one pitch. My partner lead the second pitch, and after a couple tough moves right at the belay (the hand crack), the route quickly becomes third class.
Jun 29, 2017
Fun. Good pro. Easier 5.7 than others on this crag. Belay spot at top of 1st pitch is less than ideal, but not too uncomfortable. Be prepared to get creative.
Aug 14, 2011
The direct start to the 5.5 finish doesn't seem to be mentioned above. This makes a very nice and obvious, aesthetic line, but perhaps is S for pro. Climb the open book to the left of the regular start, approaching it via the blunt arete on the right. This leads to the left edge of the roof and into the second part of the dihedral. The climbing is easy, since it's low angle, but there's not much for your hands or for gear, since the crack is closed off and/or rounded. You get good gear every 15' feet or so--bring double green to red Aliens or the equivalent.
Feb 28, 2004
Before you leave the belay ledge you can sling a wobbly chockstone with a 4' runner about thigh level on the right side of the 5.7 crack. The moves up the crack are pretty airy but there are good hand holds on the left and jams in the crack.
Nov 13, 2002
You can also start this route about 75 feet below the 5.7 crack, left of the A-shaped roof and the large pointy flake. Cruise left up the ramp to an undercling and make a fun move through the first wall. Angle right to the bottom of the crack, a #4 camalot is nice to have here. Continue as from the first belay in the original description. The route can be done with a 50 M rope in one pitch with no rope drag this way.
May 30, 2002
I thought the 5.7 second pitch was far far harder than any other 5.7 I've done in Colorado, and some of the 5.8s. Decent route, but an awful lot of wandering for 5 tough moves.
May 11, 2002
- Owl Direct , The
I climbed this route yesterday right off the couch and slightly injured. I didn't think twice about going straight up the Owl's first pitch instead of wandering out left. Mentally I thought I was still climbing a 5.7+. When I got to the crux, I was able to find a placement for my smallest BD offset (0.1/0.2), and it sunk in the little seam just before committing to the exciting, crimpy layback moves with sequential footwork. SPICY! I found this to be the best way to climb The Owl reducing rope drag and allowing the option for one long pitch with a 70m rope to reach the summit.
Nov 27, 2017
- Owl, The
We had a blast following the footsteps of the great Layton, really enjoyed this route, has a little bit of everything. Classic "Kor 5.7" for sure, definitely agree with the other comments, not a beginner 5.7.
Aug 12, 2017
I posted this under the Dave Clark photo: Instead of going right to the chickenheads as shown here, I recently followed cracks left and then right to end up just below the huge roof where there is a pin and some tat. From there, a difficult move right can be made (mossy and wet), and I ended up with feet on top chickenhead. Anyone know the name of that variation? Or grade? Rossiter guide makes it seem like the first ascent traversed that way to get into the A-frame/hand crack exit for the end of the first pitch.
Aug 23, 2016
It's a bit of a wanderer, but I wouldn't say it's that confusing. Aim for the break in the roof, follow the line of least resistance, and extend most of your placements.
Feb 23, 2016
A classic Kor route as mentioned from the previous posts. Not straightforward like Kor's route on Cob Rock, but very thought provoking, route finding and protection skills needed. Bring lots of long runners and know how to use them. A five star, challenging route, that is a timeless classic! Climbed East Slab as a warm up.
Oct 18, 2015
The Owl is worth all the stars, but it's a "Kor" route, so that explains the 5.7 rating, but forget about the rating and climb it. My partner was not offering up any beta, so I found it kept me guessing and engaged. I felt like I just climbed a classic and was thrilled.
Aug 22, 2015
Sandbagged and confusing, not for a beginner lead - probably best if you are a 5.8-5.9 leader because you can get yourself in some pretty sketch locations if you get lost like I did. The climbing was ok, but not great, combined with the fact that you'll spend half your time wondering if you're on route. D'Antonio gives it lots of stars, perhaps he knows exactly where to go, I almost want to give it the bomb for the aforementioned reasons.
Aug 9, 2014
Beware - classic Boulder sandbag!
Apr 28, 2014
Yesterday I on-sight free soloed this route. After soloing the slab for the second time and on-sighting the leftmost problem on the East Boulder, therefore finishing the boulder's problems in the on-sight, no-crash pad style, I began up the Owl. Cruising and criss-crossing, I traversed right confronting the "chickenheads". With a quick jerk and snag, I latched a distant knob. My right foot then naturally slid urgently to the lower knob. Pulling over I felt relieved. This initial sequence was over, and went smoothly at that. With a simple yet high step, I was beneath a roof. Confident on hand jams I proceed not knowing the shit show my sight to feet ratio was going to be. Looking back I should have smeared right more, but once I felt the awkwardness set in, I reverted to classic foot below hand jams. Unfortunately the position greatly hindered the sight, feel, and movement of my foot jams, so I put as much body to the wall as I could and powered my hand jams over into the depth of the "V"-shaped slot. Groveling into easy territory, I quickly became free and danced the slab to the final roof, which I found to be the crux. After a few attacks and subsequent retreats, I committed. Right hand jamming high in the right crack, I stood up with my left completely this time, hoping to find a jam or something to sustain gracefully through the obstacle, yet to no avail. I resorted to grope around the left roof arete. Finding what seemed decent in the heat of the moment, I crimped. Matched feet for balance symmetry, and somehow, after a bit of desperation, found a perfect little knob that seemed to be directly above the apex of the roof. Wish I knew that was there. The next few moves appeared to be weird but turned out to be an amazing, exposed, almost completely horizontal rest directly above the roof. Feeling refreshed, I began the escape from my rock bed and stretched my way into the final hand crack. I spent probably ten minutes in the crack feeling the wind and thought before ending the route. Awe inspiring experience. Oddly I felt good about my climbing despite the moments of adverse distress.
Jan 24, 2013
Tonnes of fun. Excellent pro. Great fist jamming and some awesome committing moves. Zig-zaggy route, so draw placement and extension were tricky. Nuts and cams, varied to 3". We did 3 pitches to avoid rope drag at the cruxes. This felt pretty natural, except the 3rd pitch was quite short. Communication was difficult on this route (and all of the Dome), especially with a rushing river.
May 6, 2012
This was my first climb after moving to Boulder to go to school. Fond memories indeed.
Dec 6, 2011
No need to worry about the manky pin on P2: the ring and eye are gone. I wonder if someone accidentally tested it. A grey/yellow Alien fits below the pin. Along with the #2 BD, this felt well protected, as long as your belayer keeps you off the slab.
Nov 10, 2009
"The moves through the A-frame roof seemed harder than 5.7 to me -- especially on my first attempt!" The key to that move is the infamous "head jam", makes it a piece of cake :-) (see pictures on CozyHang)
Jun 8, 2009
Fabulous route! Climbed it with my wife on Friday. Probably the toughest "short" 5.7 trad climb I've ever led. Protects well, but had to think through the zig-zag bulges and roofs. The moves through the A-frame roof seemed harder than 5.7 to me -- especially on my first attempt! Second try went better after my wife graciously pointed out a good place to stem with my right foot. Despite (or maybe because of) the challenge, I loved the route. I'll be back!
Jun 7, 2009
A 70m rope will get you to the top in 1 pitch with bad, but bearable, rope drag (finishing via the p2 .10 handcrack variation). Accidentally did an interesting variation on p1. Instead of jogging left under the bulge and traversing back right, I went straight up to get into the small dihedral before traversing right to the chickenheads. If you look in the photo with the description "Ran is traversing..." the line I did goes up the small crack about 10 feet right and a little bit down from the climber. An insecure layback over ok gear was fairly exciting and felt more difficult than .7.
Feb 16, 2009
Left lots of booty yesterday, if anybody cleans my stuff I'd love it back. My partner could not unclip a BD Neutrino QD in the old mangy pin I clipped just for the hell of it. Also, in the final hand crack, I tried and tried and tried until my bloody hands gave up to fish out a green Metolius cam. If found and returned, good beer is your reward. Thanks.
May 4, 2007
I'm with Nick on this one. I plugged a Grey Alien in the crack before the chicken heads then spent 15 minutes thinking about going for it. The move is really easy once you grab them but if you have trouble reaching them it can be intimidating. The roof at the top is pretty easy though, skip the piton and sink a number 2 BD to your right to keep the rope out of your way, climb up high, stem super wide, jam and arm, and it's over. I personally found grabbing for the chicken heads to be a lot more commiting than the roof. Overall a great and varied climb but I would have been very unhappy to tackle this as one of my first 5.7 leads.
Mar 21, 2007
If 5.7 is around your leading limit and you're looking for climbs in this area, I personally found this to be a little harder than the Standard Route on the Elephant Buttress and a little easier than Cozyhang. And the ten minutes or so that I spent gathering the nerve to grovel over to the chickenheads rank as perhaps the most humbling that I can remember off the top of my head.
Jul 24, 2006
I've done another 5.9 (?) exit variation to the ending that slips around the left side of the final roof and climbs a steep face to a frictiony dihedral. Not in the Rossiter guidebook that I saw.
May 16, 2006
Watch rope drag on the 1st pitch, and stay on route. 5.7 roof move on the last pitch is committing. Aliens, 1 set of hand-sized cams, and nuts (BD stoppers #4-8) sufficient.
May 11, 2006
I've lead this twice now, and it surely feels stout for a 5.7. Definitely not a good beginner lead. That old pin on p2 looks fairly manky (the ring is pretty rusted), probably a good idea to back it up.
Apr 18, 2005
I found a stopper below the first belay on The Owl / Cozyhang. I think it's a #11. Give me a call at 303-929-2041 if you want it back.
Apr 5, 2005
Fun climb that protects fairly well too the summit. Seems like rope drag could be a real problem on the second pitch if you don't a have a least 1 extra long runner (especially in the dihedral slot). Anyone ever test the pin on p2?
Mar 11, 2004
I agree it seems like another classic boulder sandbag. Don't go climb 5.8's at Happy Hour and think you've got it easy. Great climb though. Bomber gear. Tricky but rewarding crux moves. Not a beginner climb, go do east slab.
Sep 23, 2003
This was a lead I feared for a long time, in fact I hated following it because I always muscled through the pigeon poop crack and had to take on the roof...a couple nights ago a friend showed me new techniques and it made all the difference. Tonight on lead I learned this route can be easy but I agree it is not a beginner lead. On lead I found (being short 5'2") that reaching for the chicken head on P1 was the hardest move since I was a bit above and right of my last piece. The crack and the roof protect well and in a relaxed state are oh so very fun. Now I gotta find the nerve to lead P1 (over the bulge) of Cozy Hang.
Jun 19, 2003
I left a 7 BD hex and a carabiner on 4-12-03 to lower from when I got off route. If anyone wants them they are about an inch up and to the left of the woman's head in that picture of the two people at the base of the owl. Once I figured out the route it was really fun (the two roof sections are awkward, but well protected).
Apr 12, 2003
I must have missed the easy way around the roof. I thought It was another boulder classic sandbag route. What a great climb. Both pitches have good moves. Not a good beginer lead.
May 27, 2002
The roof on the second pitch can be made very easy by getting a wide (but not too wide) stance in the chest high shelf that starts below the horizontal part of the roof and leaning a bit to the left.
Feb 4, 2002
From the belay atop P1, you can also take the 5.10/9+ hand crack that exits the roof 15 feet up and right from you. It's somewhat awkward, in that it's half roof / half hand traverse, but an enjoyable and well-protected exit variation.
Jan 27, 2002
- Pinnacle
Perhaps I climbed this "wrong", but I stepped off the pinnacle and used a twin crack system to reach a fist crack. Upon reaching the fist crack, this is where I thought the crux moves were but in no way were they 11a moves. Perhaps a single move of 5.10 climbing was encountered while pulling out of the fist crack. Not really worth the time to lead but good enough just to squeeze in another route while cragging off the anchors below Super Squeeze.
Nov 25, 2012
Make sure you nail the initial moves and place a lot of pro if you are shaky at all at this grade. I busted off the first moves, and I almost left my chin on a sharp ledge that you start on by the pillar. Felt tough.
Jun 4, 2007
- Prelude to King Kong
Agreed with above posters. Tricky as an onsight but a solid 5.9 by local trad standards. Very fun route and much more worthwhile than it appears from the ground.
Feb 13, 2017
More or less a one move wonder, but it protects well and it's tricky to read onsight. Definitely worth climbing if you're at the Dome.
Mar 27, 2011
I really like this climb. Maybe not as classic as The Owl, but an exciting finger crack problem, with bomber gear placements the entire way. Since I'm not that good, I took the 5.7 crack to the left of Gorilla's Delight and found a sweet sequence of jams. The Dome surely possesses quite a few gems. GET DOME!
Oct 13, 2008
As of 1-4-08 there is a fixed #0.5 Camalot on the second pitch...an ice storm was moving in and my partner was unable to get it out in time, so we bailed.
Jan 11, 2008
Near the top, don't use the sloping block on the left - stick to the dihedral on the right - keeps the level more consistent.
Nov 3, 2005
- Pussy Cat
Meant to get on Cozy Overhang. Oops! Gear beta... A very long reach at the crux move will give you a perfect green (#0.75) Camalot protecting the move through the roof.
Aug 27, 2008
- Signs Of Life
I worked this route years ago when it was extremely dirty. I cleaned it quite a bit before really working the moves. Now it is an amazing variation to East of the Sun, etc. Great holds for traversing left on the overhanging roof and there is also a cool variation if you traverse left before the roof and gain a thin crack on the face.
Jun 17, 2011
The "sign of life" I encountered was a territorial wasp who lives in a finger lock crack (yellow Metolius) at the lip. There's enough room for the cam, and two fingers underneath, but not for all that and the wasp. Got a nasty sting hanging out at the lip. Maybe do this route in cold weather when the little bastard is napping.
Sep 14, 2006
Nice climb with a fun stemming overhange with big square crystal jugs. This combined with the East of the Sun slab would be the logical line, but since we'd just done East of the Sun, we finished with the crack right of East Slab.
Apr 2, 2006
Thumbs up to anyone who would solo this. As for the line being short, it seems to climb a full pitch of independent territory, which is more than I can say for most "variation" routes. As previously stated, since it has obviously been done- historically, I was surprised it was not documented.
Apr 21, 2003
This route has been done before, mainly soloed, it probably was not listed anywhere due to it being short and that it would end up exiting an already existing line.
Mar 18, 2003
- Super Squeeze
No love for this thing, huh? I thought it was a blast. Don't wear a helmet. Trail gear. Get stuck. Get unstuck. Try again. Get stuck again. Go around. Get back in. Pretty awesome #6 placement. The poop and risk of decapitation are worth the misery (if you're into that).
Aug 22, 2013
Did this last night and it is still owned by the Pigeon King. I felt that this route was definatly harder then any other 10 I have climbed anywhere. This come mostly due to the Bird crap that greeses every hold through the crux. This climb was the closest my head will ever get to being in the rectum of a bird. Great movement but route gets 3 demerit points for it's condition
Jun 18, 2009
The climb is pretty unique and interesting, but the difficulty is definitely body-size dependent. I'm a relatively small person, but after climbing this, I have raked areas on my back and chest at the shoulder blades/pecs, and then a big raked area at the top of my big butt. I am 5'10 and only weigh 165. Larger climbers beware. To get my chest through I had to exhale and wiggle, to get my butt through I had to dangle my legs and relax, then swing my feet back and forth like a pendulum to wiggle through. For gear, you should rack it all to the sides, not a single biner behind you on the gear loops. Take stoppers + thin-hands sized gear (1.5-2" cams) and one good-hands or wide-hands piece and you can protect it very well. Presently, one pigeon has made this home. I literally scooped a few piles of dry poop out of the left hand holds prior to the crux. One star, normally, but maybe one less than that to account for the pigeon poop. Even the belay is tar-and-feathered with pigeon crap and feathers presently. 5.10d, but more for the will required than the skill required. Large people will find it harder, exceptionally small people will find it easier, both due to the hand jams available (tight green to purple Camalot) and the lesser struggle squeezing through the slot.
Jul 30, 2003
Excellent pigeon shit jams at the crux. Way more fun than it looks.
May 7, 2013
I had a time on this one too at 5ft 9in, 170 lbs. I first got my head through the slot, and then almost got my head/helmet stuck (see above post - don't wear a helmet). With difficulty, I managed to get my chest about halfway up the slot, and then desperately attempted to exhale all the way and press my way through, breaking a rib in the process. Once my chest was through, it was a breeze. Although I enjoy wide cracks, I can't say that I feel any desire to repeat this climb unless I get tapeworms and drop 20 lbs.
Jul 2, 2012
Allen, It was not a joke. I saw the bald spot! Bryan, Your beta is brilliant. I've been tying into my swami belt with the knot on the right hip and tying in on the left hip, and I never even thought to switch them.
Apr 28, 2011
Hey Kurt, psyched you did it! After swearing off slabs in '92, this was on my short list of steep climbs to do. It was part of a process of redemption after years in the SP doing slabs. What a great route! Beta: Swami belt with the knot placed on the left hip, tie in on the right.
Apr 27, 2011
God I hope the last post was a joke.
Mar 10, 2011
I followed this route today. I fell during the business, and got my helmet stuck so that I was hanging with all my weight on my neck on the helmet strap. Scared shitless, I ripped my helmet off without unbuckling it, and in the process, ripped TWO of my dreads off. I had never been so horrified while following a route.
Mar 9, 2011
Made me feel like a piece of protection.
Sep 24, 2008
Ron Olsen and I replaced the 1/4" bolt at the belay. Unfortunately, not only was the existing bolt a mere 1" deep in the rock, it was also in a hollow flake. We searched high and low for a spot to place the new bolt that was good rock and finally decided up and left. The new bolt is a 3/8" SS Rawl five-piece bolt. The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
Oct 13, 2005
The old 1/4 inch bolt was being backed up by a nut and a huge somewhat loose chockstone, and about 15 different slings, so I cut most of the crappy webbing off and unslung the chock stone and [equalized] a [BD] 13 nut and the 1/4 incher with a [piece] of 8 mm cord that is [in ok] condition it is [fairly] bomber now. I was surprised that anyone let it get in such bad condition, it was one of the biggest messes that I have seen, so if you get up there and [don't] like what I did, take out the old stuff before you add in your bit, 1 [cordalette] should be [sufficient], and if you [don't] get too sketched out [just] use the bolt, it is solid.
Jul 31, 2005
The old Erickson guide book contained numerous bon mots and pearlsof wisdom. He hit the nail on the head when he wrote of Supersqueeze (I quote from memory): "a 10 foot stretch of climbing which requires every textbook technique".
Jun 21, 2003
- Umph Slot, The
Attempt #5 with Matt. Silly me. I have been training for OW. This isn't an OW. It is a bouldering route where you float around the edge like a butterfly. Next attempt I'm going to bring a crash pad. Matt needs to pick better friends.
Sep 10, 2017
I came out of this lead a new person but not a better one. You can walk a #6 ahead of you to keep you psychologically protected as the crack tries to spit you out into space.
Jul 23, 2017
This may just be the best ~2 body lengths of climbing in Boulder. Wide crack novelty that is not to be missed. There various solutions to this one including, but not limited to, arete humping or cartwheels. From what I have seen and experienced, it seems like 2 outcomes are possible - hiking it or utter failure but not a whole lot in between. Fun for all body types, but some will have more "fun" than others.
Jan 21, 2017
This climb is great...for ladies under a B cup with a Beyonce ass. Spent a majority of my time groveling and cursing at my climbing partner while trying not to breathe too much for fear that my boobs would trap me to the point of him tying me off and going home. Would do it again.
Jan 21, 2017
Climbed it in 1968. I remember praying hard and crying at the top.
Sep 22, 2016
I was pretty happy to have a #5.
Apr 11, 2016
Here we go again. Matt and I, once again, hanging out at the Umph. We are in fact starting to believe we are too, ahem, 'thick'. Pushes us way outside too early. This time I was able to climb the top 2/3 clean. That bottom section is brutal. I'm going to talk to my doctor about having a few ribs removed. Also, next time I climb this thing I'm going to tape a $100 bill in the back of the crack as a prize to whoever gets there first.
Mar 6, 2016
Climbed it again today. I think I may actually be getting worse at climbing. This climb is some kind of terrible misery that can only be appreciated when looking down at your partner and laughing like some kind of crazy person. I was on Crack of Fear two weeks ago and found it to be 'easier' than this.
Oct 1, 2015
I feel the need to provide my witness (Hallelujah). I'm 5'8" and 180 and couldn't get anywhere but on the outside of this thing. Feels like 5.15 to me. I'm going to go home to regroup. Ray P.S. Sure were a lot of cobwebs on it. Does anyone actually climb this thing anymore?
Sep 7, 2015
Wow. Short approach, good scenery, easy communication, engaging climbing, and "exciting" nipple and crotch stimulation make this one the better, in my opinion, "date climbs" in the Boulder region. Definitely a pitch worth considering when trying to find that perfect route to show someone new to the sport what climbing is all about and to learn the origin of the saying "if your chest isn't bleeding, you're not trying!"
Feb 20, 2014
I don't know what 11a offwidth feels like, but I know what 10+ offwidth feels like and this was hard. I am of normal size.
Sep 8, 2013
I wore holes through my skin at my chest and elbow, through my long sleeved shirt (the shirt did not rip). Just the friction of the shirt on my skin! Of course I didn't feel anything until I topped out. I thought that if I ever did this thing again, I'd stick a large square of moleskin on the two spots, but this is probably aid....
May 15, 2013
This route actually 5.8 if you find the hidden jug at the top and have a good updraft. The moves are much easier if you have a large torso and a huge ass.... Classic. Good training for The Crack of Fear... which may be 5.8 too.
May 7, 2013
If you still have both of your nipples, you didn't try hard enough.... :)
Jun 22, 2011
The slot is really hard. Harder than any 5.10 I have ever done. And I've done my share of bombay chimney slots rated harder. Maybe I was doing it wrong....
Jun 22, 2011
I onsight free soloed this back in '77 or so, when I was a skinny kid from Laramie, total tunneler. Not barefoot but in EBs. Now, 15 lbs heavier and 34 yrs, more mature, I suspect it would the fringes for me!
Apr 16, 2011
Nothin' like doing the chicken wing thing and then putting a major stress on your funny bone. I was not laughing though at this "5.8" that my partner drug me up. For me, it was probably 5.9 A1 (seconding, I grabbed the rope).
Feb 27, 2008
Stuggle violently up the overhanging slot. Umph - 5.8 my @$$.
Oct 31, 2007
After having butterflies in my stomach all day, I went for it. Climb this baby left side in, as if it wasn't already obvious enough. For the first 8', you can climb and place gear in the hand crack inside. I placed a red and gold Camalot to start. Once you start moving up you are forced outside by the laws of physics. Don't let that scare you, bust into a "chicken wing" it's the only way. You can also heel toe with your right foot. Place a number 6 and inch your way to the top. (on-sight Baby!)
May 12, 2007
I'm not a big dude--5'9", 145 lbs., and I had to climb out of the crack, chicken-winging hard with my left arm, kind of gastonneing/smearing with my right hand. Hard to believe that 15-20' of climbing gets you so thoroughly pumped! My pushing muscles--triceps/pecs (and my adductors, with regards to Mrs. Bubb!)--are aching today with nary a pain in my pulling muscles. Re: gear, we used 2 #2 Camalots low in the crack, one about 1' above the other, and a #6 Friend, pretty tipped out, 1' above that. If you aid this thing, take several #5 Camalots or #6 Friends, but for free climbing, I would say just place a #2 Camalot as high as you can and then punch it. David Goldstein is right: this thing is definitely harder than the squeeze section of the Harding Slot.
Nov 20, 2006
This climb is unratable. Stuff yourself in it and call it whatever you want. I'm about 190 and getting inside the crack isn't even an option. My chest won't fit in, but I can get some good chicken wings and work the lip gaston style with my right hand. I use a #3, #2, #5, #4.5 Camalots, with some extra #1s or #2s for the anchor. Placing a #3 low on the pitch keeps the rope out of your way if you fall out.
Jul 1, 2005
This has got to be one of the nicest offwidths in Boulder (although granted, there aren't that many). I found it to be very sustained throughout the overhanging section, with very insecure arm barring and toe heel moves, until a killer chicken wing about 10 feet out can be obtained. I used a #5 Camalot and moved it along, until leaving it behind near where you can get up on the less steep upper face. I'd call this test piece 5.10d and felt it had moves as hard as the crux on Crack of Fear. Great route!
Oct 25, 2003
Hard to give this nasty 10' stretch of climbing a difficulty or a quality rating. For one thing, it's completely size dependent. As someone who is pretty narrow front to back, I could just barely fit inside -- removing my gear sling made the difference between success and failure. As a squeeze chimney, the way I climbed it, it was considerably harder than the notorious squeeze chimney section of the Harding Slot; this would make Umph Slot at least 5.10. As an offwidth, the way someone wider would have to climb it, it's probably that much harder. Note that most of the way there is good hand size gear (and handjams) in the back, if you can reach. Do this back to back w/ Supersqueeze for the full on abuse program -- 20' feet of climbing that will feel like that many pitches.
Jun 21, 2003
I saw Dave Miller "wine master to the stars" free solo this without chalk or shoes-no lie!!!
Oct 16, 2002
The way I have done it (twice) was one side in and one side out. Then you can pinch the rock bewteen your thighs for friction (we called the right side of the crack "Mrs Bubb" as a joke) while thrutching up the with arm-bars and poor jams. Be warned, if you slip in this position, you may damage "the goods. I'm a fairly small guy (5'10" 165lbs) but have VERY long arms, and I'm pretty flexible. So, I fit further in than most people and could reach further back than most who can fit in. I found the climb to tick in at about 5.10+/11-. Very body-size dependent. Smaller people have an advantage, but so do apes with VERY long arms and big paws.
Oct 14, 2002
Mark must be a Hobbit or a Dwarf to get inside this route. Climbed on the outside this route is well into the 5.11 range. I recommend two #5 Camalots and a #3 Big Bro if aiding this baby (the only way I could get up it). Nothing else really fits because you can't reach in far enough to place a #4 Camalot. You do place some smaller gear at the start, but be careful you don't place it too deep and you'll need to go find Mark to retrieve it.
Oct 14, 2002
Don't even have an illusion that this route is anywhere near 5.8+, unless your 4'2" and have no shoulders. You can also start this by going up The Owl and continuing left where you would go right to the bottom of Supersqueeze-5.6.
Oct 14, 2002
The 150ft length is a Very Rough estimate. If you try to do it in one pitch and come up short......you have been warned.
Oct 13, 2002
- Eagle Rock
- ABD Warm-up
- Authentic Battle Damage
ABD has been repeated and is suggested to be V12.
Nov 30, 2009
- Authentic Battle Damage Stand
Super fun, I thought more like V6 (from the mid-way sit)... but mos-def my style to the T. Also, seems to make a huge grade difference if you actually pull of the ground/sit start it.
May 22, 2011
FA was, as it turns out, by Ian Powell, who told me about this line years ago, saying he was sure a lower start could be done. Looking for this, I found what was to become the Hug.
Nov 28, 2010
- Bald Eagle
WARNING!!! Beware of the nut on the fourth bolt. It has a way of unscrewing itself.
Sep 16, 2012
And for all you boulderer-types who hate to get pumped, there is a fine link-up Finally Eagle (13a) that engages the first three bolts on Bald Eagle, and then heads right into the 5.11d Golden Eagle.
Oct 17, 2010
- Barely Eagle
This is an awesome line, and a great addition to Eagle Rock. The first half is really fun, and the upper headwall is classic. I didn't see a piton at the start, so I used the first 2 bolts above the belay for 'Eagle Hardware', then moved right for 7 bolts on 'Barely Eagle' (9 bolts total, long sling on bolt 2). The bolts are snug and solid right now, and the rock has cleaned up very nicely. Thanks for another fantastic Front Range Sport route from Team Shred!
Aug 24, 2014
It doesn't seem like this has seen much traffic yet. It's still pretty licheny, which makes a lot of the fingertip liebacking feel really desperate... a wire brush may be in order. I really don't think this is going to see any downgrading if that's to what the "Boulder 12d" is a reference. Seems pretty stiff to me.
Oct 24, 2011
Ah, loose bolts: most unbizzled. If anyone goes up, take a 17mm wrench, or barring that an adjustable crescent. These are the Fixe wedge bolts with the big nuts on them. Thanks, Alex!
Aug 31, 2011
Sustained "Boulder 12d" fo shizzle, my bizzle! So you mean the left toothy crimp, which would be a sweet thumb catch in its own right, used to have a thumb catch? That's some hard bizzling! Cool leg-flagging, seam-laybacking off balancedness to the top. My main reason to comment, is to give heads up to the next person who gets on this to bring a wrench to tighten bolts #2 & 4.... They seriously unbizzled!
Aug 31, 2011
The two loose blocks were removed, and she's all brushed up purdy and gussied up real nice: good to go for mass consumption. Also, the thumb catch on the left crimp at the crux crumbled, so you'll have to try a little harder.
Oct 14, 2010
Love the name!
Oct 7, 2010
- Bat Guano Sightseeing Route, The
- Buddha Belly
I think it is 12a up to the jug then 12b after that, because I was able to do it. Also, best climb I've done in the canyon. I was able to jam my Buddha Belly into the seam though, and catch a no hands rest....
Aug 25, 2016
Wow, just wow. What a route. Being 5'4" was challenging, especially the move to the mini-jug. That was the crux of the whole route for me. Originally in my sequence I planned to skip the bolt through the hard lieback section, but on redpoint today, I ended up clipping it from a left hand jam. Wait for cool temps, because this morning in October was perfect, tacky, and delightful. Lucky me too, I had Mark Rolofson, the visionary behind the route, belay me.
Oct 9, 2015
Hi Mark, It certainly felt hard BITD, but it's also a style I really don't do well at. So while I flashed Flying Beast for example, a bouldery short route on fairly defined holds, Buddha Belly took quite a bit longer because of its sloping abstract features.
Aug 21, 2015
Thanks for your analysis, Train 4 Life. If my memory serves me correctly, Peter Beal made the second ascent in Summer 2000 & told me that he thought it was solid 5.13b. Obviously he changed his opinion, which is valid. What makes it valid or not is why. I don't know the answer. Did he return & repeat the route & decide it wasn't that hard? Or did he just decide to agree with others that were calling it .13a? In any case, it's a great climb that delivers a great pump without hurting your fingers.
May 22, 2015
And I did all the moves on the climb...so I'd like to break it down the way I thought it went and I'd love to hear your opinions and thoughts. First moves to the break where the right hand jug is...(5.12c). Moves into the technical slots combined with the 12c before it (5.13a). Then the finishing move with after the stem rest...I basically smeared a foot on a small chip and stood up and went into a layback with the right hand and desperately got a right hand up right by the left to grab a very small, mono divot and pulled off that. Then I fought my feet up and kept trying to build up on the layback until I could make a big move to the jugs up top (13b/c with the rest added on). Tell me what you all think!
Aug 25, 2014
Just a question, because I am not nearly to the status of most of the climbers that have commented on here, but I have done Nevermore and Tiger's Woody and been on Black and Tan and Double Stout, Interstellar Overdrive, Third Millenium, Choose Life, and Thunder Muscle...you get the picture. I feel that this route is much much harder than Tiger's and Nevermore (Both 13a's). Am I crazy or did I just really really mess up the beta at the top of this route?
Aug 25, 2014
Thanks, Mark! I am going to go with Monsieur Pinklebear on this one. Hard for the grade but not 13b.
Dec 13, 2012
Here's the FA & FFA info on this fine route. I bolted the route & then made several one hang ascents in October 1998. I returned to the route on two warm days in December 1998 with visiting German climber Jorg Strassner. With draws on the route and my beta, Jorg redpointed the route on December 4, 1998. Two days later it snowed. I finally returned & redpointed the route in September 2001. I think the route is harder than 5.13a & rated it 5.13b in my last guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I". "Buddha Belly" is harder than any other .13a in Boulder Canyon. Compare it to "Sinopia", "Nevermore", "Flying Beast", "Green Panther", "Give The Dog A Bone", or "Vasodilator". The route is quite sustained, especially the top half up - the powerful, sequential lieback. There are three section of .12a/b up to the .12c/d crux at the 8th bolt. After making it through the crux, I found it hard to shake out at 9th bolt but managed to after finding the right position to straight arm off the seam. The lieback finish is .12a/b.
Dec 11, 2012
Such a cool route. I've had a love/hate thing with it for a while. If you put your hands just where they need to be in those flared, slanting cracks, you'll love it (you also need to bring your feet up in a specific way). If you put them in the wrong spots, you'll hate it. The thing is, it takes awhile to find the right spots. (Read: stout for 13a....)
Sep 30, 2010
Eagle Rock, a really good place as there is, a 10a, 10b 10c, 11a.....leading right up to it for warmups. Better be good at vert up high. It is a great route complete with funkyness and all! Also try Vasodialator and Nevermore (yeesh!) in the canyon.
Nov 22, 2008
5.13a -no b about it.
Aug 21, 2002
- Davey Jones Footlocker
- Eagle Chick
- Eagle Eyes
Orginally the crux was a bit harder, with poor holds on the sloping shelf around the 9th bolt. When I climbed this route in 2007, someone must have pulled out a small piece of quartz, leaving a nice incut. This made a move easier. Still the route felt about .12a.
Dec 11, 2012
I thought this route seemed soft at 12a, and I am not usually one to downgrade. However, the climbing is surprisingly good. I had been up to Eagle Rock a long time ago and thought everything looked like choss, but I made a mistake. Recently, having limited options for shade and time, I headed up. I did a couple of 5.10s, this route, and an 11b/c. Overall, I was quite impressed with all the routes and many deserve more stars than the actual guidebook gives them. Worth a visit for sure. Great crag if your climbing in the 11 range given that is what most of the routes are....
Sep 4, 2012
- Eagle Hardware
Here's an idea: bring 8 quickdraws instead of 14. Good climb on fine stone.
Sep 9, 2015
Pat Thompson is responsible for bolting & cleaning this route. I was just the first person to freeclimb it. I bolted most of the other climbs at Eagle Rock. Yes, it could have been done with less bolts, but so what? I have climbed it many times to warm up for harder routes, and it's a great climb. If you don't like it, then don't clip all the bolts or go to another crag & leave this wall for those of us who like it. I have met many people who have climbed this route and loved all the bolts. What really find trully amazing is all the comments from Anonymous Cowards! You guys are really chickenshits for not having the balls to post your real names.
Nov 14, 2012
A 5.11d for the first lead ever? I think that pretty much shows what the over-bolting issue does to this climb. I'm sure the moves are still hard, over my head, but don't listen to me, I'm one of those old ethic farts that used to try and push using fine clay instead of chalk in your chalk bag (never did like that climb by following the dots thing).
Sep 18, 2007
The bolting worked just fine for my wife Cath for whom this was the first ever lead, indoor or outdoor.
Sep 18, 2007
Everyone will not agree. Pipe up about what bolts you think are not needed, eventually someone with a wrench will fix the route, or not. If I could climb more than 5.5- I would do it myself :-o
Oct 25, 2005
Uh ... yeah. Have you seen what happens to people on this site and in the community when someone removes a bolt? Retro-bolts? Changes fixed gear in any way, any where, under any circumstances? If you haven't, one word: pirahnas. It's probably easy for many to agree that Rolofson/whomever over bolted the hell out of many routes, the Eagle's (otherwise fun) routes included, but try to get consensus to change it... fuggedaboutit.
Oct 25, 2005
Why don't you post which bolts could or should be safely or easily skipped. Then perhaps we could eventually agree on which bolts should eventually be removed? If fixed pro is unecessary, clean it. Just stating that it is overbolted does not bring us forward.
Oct 25, 2005
Absolutely no joke the bolt ladder on the Grand Wall has more generous spacing on it that this route. Someone could have bolted this route on lead from aiders, never venturing into their top step and still would have placed the bolts further apart.
Oct 25, 2005
A fun route but hysterically over bolted.
Oct 24, 2005
Could have been a good route, if it weren't so grossly over-bolted. Good job on ruining another nice piece of stone.
Oct 24, 2005
I found this to be not as good as others have said. Mediocre (but solid) rock at the bottom, not particularly interesting moves. Just a pump. The bolts at the bottom are absurd, beginning with 2 belay (or bivvy?) bolts with another belay bolt just to the left. Then several bolts about 4 feet apart on easy ground. Perhaps some of these were added by another party. One bolt in the first 15 feet would be plenty. Once it gets hard, the bolts are still pretty close, but at least they make sense thre. I clipped them all, being really pumped, as this was the last climb of the afternoon.
Oct 17, 2003
The insane redpoint crux: not Z-clipping.
Oct 8, 2003
I was hoping someone could also bolt the approach slab to this climb, because I felt it was fairly run-out compared to the route. Thank God there was a rap anchor at the base of the route or I would have made it safely to the ground. Also, I appreciated the fact that my mid-section was just as well-protected throughout this route as my feet and chest were as I strained for the next bolt. Good job protecting this route!!!
Sep 4, 2003
- Eagle Snacks
Before setting off on the Great Dihedral, we climbed this very fun route for some friends who were with us. The route to the left has anchors no more than three feet from the anchors here, so we toproped it. This collection of sport climbs on Eagle rock is quite entertaining and much cleaner than the more famous dihedral.
Aug 29, 2004
The Rossiter Boulder Canyon guide shows a multipitch 10c trad route, Screaming War Eagle, starting in the same area as Eagle Snacks. The topo isn't very clear as to the start, but the description says, "The route begins near a small pine." Perhaps Eagle Snacks is a retrobolting of the first pitch of Screaming War Eagle. Rossiter calls that first pitch 10a, which may be possible, if you choose the easiest line.
Oct 17, 2003
- Eagle Tricks
- Eagle Warrior
Can someone please help me with beta for the top crux. Do you dyno? use the left arete? Is there some key hidden foot I'm missing? I can climb it to Left hand on the glued chip. Right hand on the high notch. I just can't make it that last foot to the jugs. Any info would be a huge help. Thanks Scott
Sep 10, 2006
Chipping! Enhancing! Modify? LAME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jun 5, 2005
FYI - Ted Lanzano and I had 12 draws stolen off of Eagle Warrior sometime between Saturday and Monday this week. Went up this morning, draws were gone and we found several cigarette butts at the base of the route.
Oct 19, 2004
I haven't done this route (or even tried it), but the glued on hold is hilarious. [It's] like if you're going to glue on holds you might as well go all out. I mean who would want to go to all that trouble and still not be able to do the route. Let's see, I don't really want the crux to be there so let me make a few minor, oh hell, major adjustments....
Oct 23, 2003
Ditto Jim
Sep 25, 2002
5.13b- not close to c. How about no chipping EVER. PERIOD. End of story.
Aug 21, 2002
Perhaps a solution to the chipping/drilling debate is the following. One that adopts both Peter's stance of revealing the nature of the route modification without excessive policing and the general demand to put the route on a black list would be to simply place a notation line in the entry for each route. The notation line could indicate that the line was or was not natural, and if it was not natural it could indicate the nature of the enhancement. The route description could remain in place, and we would learn as much about the route as we would about any other. If it was useful, a compilation of chipped and drilled routes could be maintained under separate format. I for one do not want to loose Peter's contribution to CB.com and his insight into our more difficult lines.
Nov 7, 2001
This is an example of a modified climb, however minimally,and I would not object, as I have made it clear by describing the nature of the modifications, that people see it as such.
Nov 7, 2001
The enhanced hold is about an 1/8" deep and maybe two inches long. It's not very big and you throw about 2 feet for a ledge off it. Try it out!
Aug 14, 2001
Hmmm... creative use of the word "enhanced." I'd be curious as to the size and nature of this 'enhancement,' and even better a photo of the actual hold.
Aug 10, 2001
- Finally Eagle
- Golden Eagle
This is a really great route. I think the rating is right on at 11d, even considering Boulder Canyon ratings. Other people who think it's loads easier, you must be wicked strong and more power to ya.
Nov 11, 2009
Really fun route. Ridiculously over bolted. You never climb more than 1 foot above a bolt on this route, and can clip over your head with a bolt at your waist. And that's *Boulder Canyon* 11b. As in 5.10 in Eldo. The moves really are fun though.
Oct 22, 2005
There is a dorm-fridge size semi-detached block just below the anchors, and in fact the most natural hold to use to clip the anchors is the jug formed by the top of this block. If you are climbing this route, especially after rain, please exercise caution. The reason I believe the block to be suspect is that I was up there on a wet day (and in fact broke a mango-size hold off lower on the route both to my and my belayer's surprise), and noticed that water seeps behind the entire block and comes out a mossy crack on the underside. On that wet day, tapping also created bad bad bad vibrations. If there is agreement that the block is dangerous, perhaps it could be trundled (this would have to be done very cautiously, because it's likely to cause a rockslide). In the meantime, note that it is not really necessary to even touch this block when climbing this route. Just to the left is an equally big feature that is sound; you can easily crank on top of this and clip the anchors from the stance on top. Great moves on this route. I'd rate it 5.11, 2 stars.
Oct 19, 2004
Jim, if you had a bigger gut it would feel like .11d.
Sep 16, 2002
11b
Sep 16, 2002
- Great Dihedral
I've done this route twice, or something very close to it, but both ascents were "way back when...." This is best done in the Fall when the water leveland creek crossing doesn't factor into the approach, or the effort isn't worthwhile. I didn't find this to be any harder than 5.4-5.5 at the time, but that's an "Old School" rating, too.
May 16, 2013
Midway through pitch one, I came upon a fresh, hot, steamer the size and weight of a Texas cow turd. It is unknown whether this be the handiwork of herbivore or carnivore, but it was clearly not avian. It seems that avoiding these deposits of schitt makes one gravitate to the sparsely protected face to the left of the dihedral. Though runout, it is at least cleaner.
Aug 29, 2004
I agree with both previous entries: the climb is more 5.6, there is an abundance of (mostly avoidable) poop, and should possibly receive an 's' rating, due to the first pitch. It's a really fun time, though, and the ledge at the top of the first pitch is very spacious and cool. Eagle Rock does require a creek crossing, so keep that in mind, as it could affect your 'car-to-car' during the spring months.
Mar 1, 2004
Great route to escape the crowds...Cool dihedral minus the bat shit and wood rat piss. I haven't found another dihedral at the grade to stand up to the quality of the Zanzibar Dihedral on Independence Pass. Anyone have any suggestions?
Nov 24, 2002
Great climb. First pitch is an ugly traverse. ZigZag from right to left until you get to a 2 bolt anchor on the face. Then go straight up the face next to the dihedral (5.7) up to a huge ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Really fun pitch. Pitch 3 go's straight up on huge buckets, and then finally getting into the dihedral crack for the final 20' to a 2 bolt anchor. Rappel down or walk off the back. Small rack. Friends around #1-4, nuts from #5-10, 6 quick draws, and 3 slings. Have fun!
Nov 11, 2001
- Green Panther
A great route and definitely not as hard as "Buddha Belly", but I have to say I find it very much .13a. Quite sustained with the crux past the 4th & 5th bolts.
Dec 11, 2012
I would say this is bouldery route is harder than 12c. I didn't redpoint the route, so I can't be certain of the grade yet, but my impression from 2 tries is that its harder than Flying Beast, another bouldery BoCan route. Speaking of glued holds, the glued horn just over the lip of the overhang is not long for this world. When that goes, this route will almost certainly be at least 13a.
Jul 19, 2005
Great route -- maybe a bit soft even by Boulder Canyon standards; has a harder single move than its neighboring route (Buddha Belly), but not nearly as sustained.
Sep 24, 2004
Great route. Too bad it's so short. Has a bomber knee bar no hand rest between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Very soft for the grade (I don't think it's any harder than 12c)
Sep 19, 2004
Sorry if I sounded offended, but I was just explaining my rationale for grading. I suppose sometimes I can sound too serious when posting on this site. I'm psyched you like the route. BTW, I read a comment about gluing on another route where the hold fell off. Green Panther had a toaster/TV-sized block "glued" in place which took me 2 minutes with a nut tool to detach. Pretty scary stuff. It made quite an impact lower down on the access ramp.
May 5, 2004
Peter- Sorry if I offended you. I was attempting to take the piss out of all of us including myself. Ratings are a fickle game, even with consensus, we really only have our own fleeting experience of a route to judge it by. GP is an engaging and challenging route. It is also height-dependent, being easier for us lanky folks and more challenging for shorter ones. I defintely plan to go back for the RP when Eagle opens again ( and I get in shape!). David
May 5, 2004
(pasted in from a comment by Dave Rivers) While we're pissin', I'd like to piss in the living room. Hank, I have your new 13a for you. It's Green Panther on Eagle Rock (equipped Rolofson, FFA Beal). IMO this route is soft. I worked it sporadically in the Fall of 2000 with some friends. My hardest redpoint at the time was Piles of Trials which I did that Fall. I had 3-4 one fall or hang attempts before school and a new career pulled me away from chasing the grades. I felt it might be 12c/d for me. I'm 6'2" with a positive ape index so that the "crux" throw was a subtle hip kip and deadpoint for me whereas my shorter but stronger friends had to full-on dyno. They redpointed the climb and also felt it soft for 13a ( and they tend to downgrade less than I). (end of paste) My rating for this route is based solely on the fact that it took a few tries over two days, which is about average for me on most easy to mid-13 routes. If it feels soft for the grade, so be it. There are plenty of other options for harder climbing in Boulder Canyon.
May 5, 2004
- Iggle
- Iggle Direct
- Stoner Homeland
Mark equiped this route and did it with hangs in '98, so it's quite possible that Mark or somebody else freed it before me. Many thanks to Mark for this and all his many great routes. Stoner seemed a touch harder than Green Panther, so I would guess it's a solid 13a. It's a sustained and clean route with an inobvious sequence, but some of the jams are quite painful. I only taped for my last attempts, including the redpoint, and have a number of ugly scrapes and a numb finger-tip as a result. Tape your fingers right away and good luck.
Sep 1, 2004
- To The Sun
Merlin is spot on about traversing right to the tree before you start climbing up the buttress. The climb is very much like Pine Tree Route lower down in the canyon - relatively easy and low angle with OK to decent pro. I didn't think it was that bad. Not to be missed is the final, steep handcrack that's short (sadly) and protects with a #3 Camalot.
May 26, 2009
I'm not sure is this is standard or not, but I posted this route to let people know to skip it. The climbing was dull, unaesthetic, and quite dirty. We found a bouldering move on the route to add to the spice up top (v1 or v2?), but other than that, this route is pretty boring. If you are a new leader, make sure to take the traverse under the roofs towards the obvious tree before heading up. It might be a good first lead, and the views up top are nice, but otherwise steer clear.
Oct 1, 2006
- East Of Eden
- Easter Rock
- Barbarians
FA - August, 1995.
Jul 31, 2008
Easy, guys! Let's leave a little crux beta to the imagination!
Aug 30, 2002
Unlike the previous reader, I did not execute as a slow reach. Beta was the same until I stuck the left foot in the slot. I then slapped high left to the first bomber sloper, moved my left foot up to the next pimpy edge, slapped the arete higher and then chucked high for the right handed, sloper gaston.... One more heave and the "jug" was then attained. Super cool!
Aug 18, 2002
The moves up to the crux on this route are a great warm-up. HUGE holds up a great dihedral with some mellow stemming. The crux is way harder than the rest of the route. You will get to a small sidepull edge for your hand on the other side of the arret, and you will stuff your left foot into a slot. Drop your left knee and torque your foot hard. It will strongly seat your left foot and bring your left hip up and in so you can make a slow reach for an edge on a small, sloping shelf. A cool bouldering problem on a fun route. Loved it!
Jul 3, 2002
This indeed is a fantastic 5.10 warm-up right until you reach the Butt Smackin' Good Crux with Bran and wish you wore your Oops I Crapped My Pants diaper under your Prana climbing pants.
Jun 24, 2002
How do you think we get the ropes up there, anyway?
Jun 19, 2001
This route is a terrible warmup. It took me longer to do this than the "5.13s" here.
Jan 1, 2001
- Catwoman
For a more difficult time, avoid all holds in the corner to the right, including the obvious resting hold before the mantel. Definitely 13a and a sure sign of too much time climbing at Easter
Aug 5, 2001
- Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist
I gave this route one star in a 5 star system in "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II". I have been up the route, but I have not redpointed it. I have no intention of ever going back. This route is a good way to strain or injure your left shoulder on the crux. The crux is brief, then a few 5.11 jug moves finish. There is no anchor, unless you traverse right to Trustafarian Panhandler. Then someone must second it. Otherwise, you must downaid the roof, & thread your rope through two of the bolts that have coldshut hangers to descend. The route belays on the trail. Thrash through vegetation to get to the rock. Take caution getting to the 1st bolt, there is a loose block. The best climbing is in the middle of the pitch below the roof. The climbing is 5.9 & easier, even though one move may be harder. The rock is good, & there are some interesting, fun moves in this section of the route. The route name is far better than the route.
Jul 23, 2017
The tradition of first ascentionists naming their routes with innuendo or crass language goes back a long way. The Vulgarians in the Gunks, Chuck Pratt, Yvon Chouinard, the Stonemasters, even John Muir (!) and others are great examples of the long standing tradition of counterculteralism in climbing in America. This phenomenon isn't limited to Boulder Canyon. Hate to break it to you, AC, but this is the way it is. Maybe you can convince a group of Mormon Fundamentalists to make a PG rated playpen out your slice of reality, but as long as badasses keep coming up with badass names for badass routes... you're only trying to bail water out of an already sunken ship. We like it that way.
Jun 18, 2017
Love those "chickenshit armchairs".
May 22, 2012
LMAO. Only in Boulder.
Sep 7, 2007
What an awesome route name. And perfect for Boulder! IMHO.
Jul 27, 2007
The name of this route is too long and does't really flow, because of this the whole point of this argument is moot. The more likely course of events that will be pursued is that it will just be called "chickenshit", "armchair enviromentalists", or "Chickenshit Enviromentalists".
Oct 20, 2003
One star.
Jun 22, 2003
Hey, what is with the add a bolt program. Two belay stations, come on. The route name is good for the texture of the rock and the way Boulder rocks do not clean well. My friends drink coffee there too, but I have no problem with the name at all. Tried the route and about tore my shoulder off.
Sep 29, 2002
There is not even one single comment about "Muff Diver" at Castlewood, what gives?
Aug 29, 2002
I didn't say offensive, I said lame, stupid, wordy, and unfunny. This isn't a free speech issue, it's a non-stupid speech issue.
Aug 28, 2002
I am reminded by this discussion of the bruhaha that surrounded route names at The City of Rocks. So "offensive" were they that the self-righteous mothers in Boise tried (in vain) to shut down climbing at the City. Funny. Once the furor had dissipated, all that remained were good routes with their original names including Carol's Crack, Nipples and Clits, Crotchbound, Psycho Ranger and on and on. Times change, but the tune remains the same. Perhaps the self-righteous moaners might instead inquire of Tod what transpired to elicit this barb.
Aug 27, 2002
We can't call every route the Naked Edge but we can try a little harder to make route names less lame. I don't know if it's the rant-factor or the wordiness or the lack of humor or all three but this name blows Hypothetical Conversation: Adoring Dad: So junior, what route did you do today?Junior: Well Dad I sent "Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist" at Easter Rock! AD: Great send! or " Dude, I'm going to hang my draws on Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist." C'mon Tod, you know it's the right thing to do. Change the name or some CAE might get out of the armchair and take your route to junk hardware heaven.
Aug 27, 2002
Just for the record, although Tod gave me FA credit, I had nothing to do with naming or drilling this route (or "Smack That Bitch Up", for that matter). I am environmentally friendly, and I have never smacked any bitches up. However, since Tod bought the bolts, and spotted the line, and did the drilling, and sent the route, I think he can name it whatever he wants to name it. I don't see why this name is any worse or better than "Skull Fuck" or "Magical Chrome Plated Semi-automatic Enema". We can't call every route "The Naked Edge". Seriously, if you don't like the name, go put up your own routes, and name them anything you like.
Aug 27, 2002
I didn't realize women ever looked at this site, let alone contributed. Spraying about routes, spraying about mighty first ascents, making bold political statements such as oh-so rugged individualists like Mr. Anderson make with their trivial route names, and limp ego-stroking all seem to be the sordid and exclusive domain of men. Or should I say, boys.
Aug 27, 2002
What about routes like "Smack That Bitch Up" in Clear Creek? That should help with land manangers, and with attracting more women to the sport (and this site).
Aug 26, 2002
I doubt route names like this are going to help with land managers.
Aug 26, 2002
Reaction.... good, it means people are thinking. The whole point of a couple of these route names is to take a shot at Boulder, and the sometimes pretentious hypocritical inhabitants. I doubt that will change in 20 years. It seems to me that there are plenty of the route's namesakes sitting in their coffee houses in Boulder drinking coffee grown in denuded rainforests, warmed with power generated by fossil fuels, bemoaning the horrible impacts that thrill-seeking climbers cause who want to close every crag around Boulder. Hopefully the miscellaneous open space departments won't get a hold of any more climbing areas.
Aug 26, 2002
I thought the whole point of naming a route was to include your particular rant which people will roll their eyes 20 at years from now. What would you prefer, "Unknown #5"?
Aug 26, 2002
Can someone explain what is up with these stupid route names? Boulder Canyon is full of them, with such gems as Ice Hose Chopper Lynch Mob or the eloquent Fuck You. Why bother with bolting and climbing a route if the name of it is just another rant? Tod, I, anonymous coward, challenge you to rename this climb something that people won't roll their eyes at 20 years from now.
Aug 26, 2002
- Dark Knight
I found this route worth doing for sure. Short stout crux. Good crack before that and sweet climbing finishing on Elanor. Was worth doing for sure.
Jul 29, 2008
Crux goes easier if you go out to a good handjam instead of under-clinging it. You don't have to stretch so far to get "up" on the hold that way.
Jul 9, 2008
- Dynamic Duel
Actually kind of fun if you can think past all of the modified holds!
Sep 20, 2016
Why is this route here, I thought there was a policy against this!
Sep 7, 2008
Does this route involve wild slaps?
Nov 11, 2004
AC #2 would you by chance be the infamous author of the Boulder Canyon Sport and ADVENTURE climbing guidebook, Mark Rolofson ???? Because we have already read all your spray about redpointing up to the ___ bolt on all of your over-graded climbs. If you climb to the anchors you redpointed it, but if not, you did not do it.... with love, Crusty, the Trad Monkey
Aug 26, 2004
Well, I stuck the lip hold with my left hand, then bumped my right to the crimp before falling, would you agree that it was a solid 12c redpoint, I would give it 12c/d if I matched both hands on the jug before falling.
Aug 26, 2004
Yeah, only if you redpoint up to the lip and limply brush it with your hand as you plummet back to earth...but I heard if you mantel the lip you are no longer classified as ultralyte
Aug 26, 2004
Let me again assert my support for climbingboulder.com anti-chipping campaign by affirming that this route was clearly modified for "free climbing" purposes. I disagree with the format of the campaign but respect its intent.
Nov 7, 2001
Just in case any other climbers get the idea that I modified this route, let me set the record straight. I don't chip routes. Anyone is welcome to check out the dozen or so 5.13 FAs or FFAs I've done in Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek. One route has a reattached hold and a reinforced one. That route also has large drilled holds that I filled in. I consider Dynamic Duel to still be an aid climb and I encourage other climbers to rise to the challenge of climbing without chipped holds whatever the difficulty.
Jul 24, 2001
- Egg
- Elanor
For me, a classic example of reading comments on mountain project before doing a route that has a reputation to make you doubt the thought of flashing (such as everyone saying that anchors are in bad spot). I wouldn't let it deter you. It's a decent gaston to clip from, and you get a good rest before starting the final sequence on a wrapper jug. Use of some gear instead of bolts may have made it smoother/more natural, but I enjoyed it either way. Fun route!
Sep 18, 2017
Onsighted the route and then whipped trying to attach draws to the chains. Where they are currently positioned, I believe that the route crux (because of the pump) is the hard, finger lock gaston required to clip the anchor. Bummer....
Sep 8, 2016
I was hanging draws and loved this route until I tried clipping draws on the anchors. I am 5'5" with a +1 and I tried, oh I tried, for the life of me to reach. I was pumped and downclimbed to the jug below, shook out, and then went again; there wasn't shit up there. I was fully extended gastoning (if you can even call it that). I fell because I could not find a way to get the draws on the anchors. What a heartbreaker. Definitely a waste of climbing when, at the top, you find you can't reach to get the draws on.
Jun 20, 2016
I did the same as Eric, clip the right anchor, then pull in to place the left one. I hung on as long as I could to clip that left one with no success.
May 27, 2015
As for the trouble with clipping both anchors, a leader need only clip the one anyway to lower. As for all the squawking about chopping bolts just because this one particular climb has some possible placements for pro...I wonder if'n these guys complaining have ever really climbed anywhere in Boulder Canyon before. This ain't Yosum, fellas...
Jul 16, 2012
I agree that hanging the left draw on the anchor is a pain, hence, I hung the right, clipped in, and then pulled up to hang the left. "One for the send, two for safety". Not worth moving the anchors because it would only make cleaning harder.
Jun 30, 2012
Sorry laid it on too thick about the # of ascents. I meant that I have never thought the anchor needed to be moved. BTW I am 5'6". That doesn't mean that I think it shouldn't be moved. The clip is not an essential part of the experience. However, if it was moved right, cleaning the route might be more of an issue?
Aug 10, 2010
Like I said in my previous post, I'm NOT suggesting anything. However, if the anchors are not prehung for those of a lesser ape index than myself (6'2" w/ a +8 ape index), my friends that have not done this route 50 times have had a lot of trouble placing the left most draw from the right hand gaston that you speak of. At least the whip that they have taken is quite enjoyable since it's all air.
Aug 10, 2010
@jarthur, I have done this route something like 50 times and have never used the crimp that fell off. There is a decent RH gaston/finger jam on the right that is secure enough to clip the anchor as it currently stands. Moving it is probably not necessary.
May 24, 2010
There used to be a decent crimp to clip the anchors. However after doing this route yesterday and confirming with my partner it is definitely gone. Now you must clip from the good holds out right, but this makes clipping the left anchor difficult and a stretch if the anchor draws are not already pre-placed. Not that I'm suggesting anything.
May 24, 2010
Great climb with continuous moves. Save a little something for the finish because the "pump-o-meter" is nearing redline.
Aug 21, 2006
I'm usually in favor of removing bolts if they are placed next to a handcrack, but I don't think this is the case with this route. I've only done this route 3 or 4 times, but is seemed that while there were a few bomber gear placements, others wouldn't be so bomber and the gear would be difficult to place, probably resulting in an "s" rating -- depending on which bolts were left. Sure, Steve D., myself and others would have put this route up differently, but we didn't. As for Greaser and AC: Why is it when somebody like Steve brings up an issue with a route like this, you guys have to stick your fingers back in his face and give him grief about a different route he put up at a different crag, with permission from the FHRC? It gets us nowhere, but in his defense, Saturnalia is well bolted and a great route (in my opinion). NO LO is a pile. It's not the same line that was soloed. The bolts are in bad spots and it gets one star at best. Steve knows he is not perfect and is open to the idea of having the bolts removed if someone feels so inclined to apply to do so. I wish other first ascentionists felt this way.
Jul 31, 2004
After forgetting this site for a pleasantly long time I see that not much has changed..... but I'd like to say that I appreciate Richard Wright's thoughtful comments and open-minded attitude. If there's anything that gives a moment's pause to impulse-bolting then it's all for the good - because what's the big hurry? I think a good climb is more than just a series of moves and that over-bolting stunts the imagination and makes it all prosaic and pedestrian. I've said time and time again that I'm not opposed to bolts per se and I can give you examples of sport routes that I like but I doubt that would appease those who delight in simple-minded reductionism. Regarding No Lo Contendre you can read my route description for the history and for Saturnalia I'd remind you that I didn't toprope it before leading it - I did some cleaning on rappel, I pre-placed a couple of RPs with long slings on them, and I worked it out from the bottom up. Then I got approval to place bolts where the RPs were clipped. Find fault with that all you want. I've been somewhat surprised, over the past years, to hear from so many people who share my feeling that Boulder Canyon has become a disgrace. The good & great routes are diminished by the too-close profusion of pointless, grid-bolted flotsam and jetsam. The sole purpose of too many routes seems to lie in "getting a workout" which, really, is available on any pull-up bar. A frenetically careless attitude leads to avoidable accidents and new climbers learn bad habits and not good ones. Maybe some day I'll come back here to read all the pithy insights and vapid humor, but for now I have better things to do.
Jul 30, 2004
Bob - No argument there. We're all learning, I suppose. In trying to grapple with where S.D. is coming from, it was not hard to see his side of things. I guess, what I'd like to be able to do is to keep this broader view of things in mind all the time, and you're right I have not always done so. I'm also putting away a lot of very inflammatory things attributed to him. But part of my point in trying to balance the many things that come up when we put up new routes is that we all enjoy the "right" to express ourselves, however we choose, so long as we stay within legal limits. There is a kind of anarchy to climbing as you well know, perhaps even more when put up new routes, and I think we need to hold on to that even if we don't staisify Steve or anyone else. But I can live with a little Steve gremlin perched on one shoulder asking whether that permanent bolt is indeed what we want to leave.
Jul 30, 2004
Interesting thoughts, Richard. I'm still a little unclear as to how Saturnalia and No Lo fit in wth Steve's constant and unrelenting position. It seems like his unrelenting position, relents when there's a route he wants to do. But he certainly appears to revel in telling the rest of the climbing community how they should act. Glass houses are still as fragile as ever.
Jul 30, 2004
Steve Dieckhoff has been a constant voice in the climbing community for at least as long as I have been climbing myself (4 May 1980). In this entire period, he has expressed a constant opinion, and as near as I can tell he has never relented and has never hidden from his opinion. He makes the point that placing a bolt trumps a trad placement, because it becomes a permanent feature of the landscape and asks the question "does placing a bolt confer a special right to permanently alter the landscape?" He comes up with "no" as an answer. There are least a few critical elements that require consideration in this complex and evolving issue. First, if placing a bolt on unrestricted rock is a "right" of the first ascensionists, then restoring the rock must necessarily be an equivalent "right". Second, climbing has always held room for the climber to express their own creativity, and where this creativity does not infringe upon legal restriction it should be given unrestricted expression. Third, what Steve wants, as best as I can determine, is for the first ascesionists to consider well the interests of the climbing community at large and to exercise respect for a limited resource. There are, of course, a lot of things to consider in weighing these concerns, but surely he must be correct in this demand. As far as Elanor is concerned, the climbing community has, in general, voiced little opposition to the bolts and the route can be climbed without clipping them all. It's a fine route with brilliant climbing and Mark saw it best as a fully bolted line. Is there anything here that we cannot live with?
Jul 30, 2004
"Thanks for the doublespeak explanation, Steve. Let's see, another and even better example of doublespeak would be Saturnalia. A route which toproped climbing that had previously been led onsight and then poorly retrobolted that climbing. And lets not forget no lo contendere, which also poorly bolted rock that had been onsight soloed. What knd of special honor should we confer on you?" Interesting... Anyway, I've climbed this many times as it is a great warm up, and have never thought of it as a trad line. I generally don't clip the last bolt, and therefore, would not place gear in the short crack at the top. It is a sport route and a good one. I have no problem with it as it is. By the way, there is a crack that goes in the .11+ range (next to Elanor) that was not bolted where gear can be placed. I think that demonstrates a reasonable descretion on the part of those to developed the area. All of this sounds like nitpicking to me.
Jul 30, 2004
Easter has about 25 routes (all bolted). Elanor could be the odd single route requiring you to carry a rack so you can place 2 cams near the top. Which means no one would do it , because most folks woudn't bring a rack to Easter Rock - you go there to clip bolts. This route isn't Rincon or Country Club - I think you guys are making a mountain out of a molehill. Good route on great stone.
Jul 30, 2004
Thanks for the doublespeak explanation, Steve. Let's see, another and even better example of doublespeak would be Saturnalia. A route which toproped climbing that had previously been led onsight and then poorly retrobolted that climbing. And let's not forget No Lo Contendere, which also poorly bolted rock that had been onsight soloed. What knd of special honor should we confer on you?
Jul 30, 2004
Yes, this is a typical example of doublespeak. On the one hand this is only a gym route (and gym routes are changed with regularity) but on the other there is supposed to be a special honor conferred on somebody who poorly bolts a piece of rock after top-roping it. It's ironic that the "right of the first-ascentionist" is the one traditional right proclaimed, even when they really aren't a first-ascentionist at all but only a misguided routesetter.
Jul 29, 2004
Ok, easy, guys. I'm not asking anyone to chop bolts. I was just curious to see what people think about bolts on top of clean pro. Maybe I used the wrong wording. I just don't think a bolt should be next to good clean pro. You can hate me for that if you wish.
Jul 29, 2004
Should this route be chopped? I propose that suggestions like this be made by people who are willing to sign their names as well. There is roughly 1/3 of the climb that is readily protectable with natural gear. The bottom crack, which is probably where Steve D clipped bolts, is mostly blind and/or thin with poor or no placements until after the second crux where the crack system opens up, . Then it's pretty easy up to the last crux where a good crack exists as well. Would it be as popular or as fun without bolts? Anyone interested can check out the crack to the right which gets done very infrequently despite its high quality and good gear. My suggestion to AC--go ahead and climb Eleanor without bolts or without a rope or in flip-flops, but otherwise keep the talk about route-chopping to himself, unless he's willing to identify himself.
Jul 24, 2004
Questions to consider to answer the above question: 1) Is this a retro-bolt of an previously existing trad route?2) Did you place the bolts? If the answer to the above questions is 'NO', then of course you should not chop the bolts. ac
Jul 24, 2004
3 stars for the moves, But I have to bomb the bolts where there is clean pro. I hate to start this, but too bad. Should they be chopped?
Jul 24, 2004
Somebody should go over the top on this one. It seems like it would go by somebody stronger than me.
Jul 14, 2004
I felt the crux to be about mid way. Good sustained climbing.
Jul 13, 2003
I believe I used the 2nd & 3rd bolts, but I'd have to look at the route to be sure.
Jul 1, 2002
Which two?
Jul 1, 2002
Led w/2bolts, and it's easier to placer cams on the top 1/2 than to clip the bolts. This would have been a very good route.
Jul 1, 2002
Excellent route, well protected, thoughtful, pumpy...lots of fun! The downside? Cleaning the draws on the way down...you'll see....
Jun 1, 2002
- Empire of the Fenceless
Was up there yesterday and noticed the glued block was starting to shift around, could probably use some more epoxy. As for the grade, I would say a 12-. 12a for sure if you are short like me (5’4” with -1 apex). I found the best way for the crux for me was use pinky/ring finger in pocket, left heel hook on slopes, then reach all way to small left crimp, clip, right hand good crimp. Super fun anyways!
Nov 3, 2017
This would probably be 5.10a in Rifle, CO.... Soft!
Feb 17, 2017
Agree with previous comments that it is a difficult onsight but a much easier redpoint. Beta: with small fingers, you can get a great two finger pocket jam at the crux, skip the low crimp, and with a high left foot slap the left hand up on the arete to the good crux crimp. Doing the move this way almost feels like neutering the route for me, because it really feels quite casual.
Sep 8, 2016
Just snagged this today! I had a lot of fun climbing this. For me at 5'8", the crux move was very tricky to figure out, and I wasn't able to do it completely statically. Nevertheless this thing is aesthetic on sticky granite and an absolute joy ride.
Jun 30, 2016
Such an amazing climb. I do agree that the on-sight would be a 12a and the red-point would be a few letters easier. Some moves become a lot easier when you know what to look for.
Sep 15, 2015
Wonderful climb, great movement the whole way. Looks like there are a few ways people pull through the crux. If you're short, the hardest part of the climb may be at the slabbed out part before the third bolt.
Jul 21, 2014
What he said ^. spoiler* Also, there's a great hands-free stance post crux (you can turn to your left and sit on your right foot on the ramp with your left foot wedged in the pocket on the face). Good place to de-pump before heading left to the chains. Best of the grade I've ever done in Bocan thus far.
Jun 12, 2013
This route is an absolutely mesmerizing line from the guidebook, the ground and especially when clipping chains from the top...sometimes in your dreams. The underlying beauty of this line comes in multiple facets: Clipping the first bolt off of a bomber, in-cut, right hand jug with huge feet quells any minor concerns for safety. Your first moves immediately after are not difficult but instead are just strenuous enough to let you know, "you're in it." Moving up the arete uses powerful and sustained movement on holds that are good but that begin to take their toll and require thoughtfulness and balance, as well as a very tight core. As your mental duct tape begins to come undone and your heavy breath becomes apparent, the voice in your head changes from "I'm going to send," to "damn... I'm pumped!?!" THEN you look up and see the crux. The sequence requires big moves off small holds to another small hold... a hard move I've seen done more than one way. This challenging dead point move up to an in-cut, half pad crimp has to be accurate and controlled. Although this climb only has 7 bolts, it is deceptively long. All of the lateral movement involved adds an additional 30 feet, which only makes this one better. As for the grade...I won't try to speculate on the difficulty.... If you climb 5.13, it's probably easy. If you climb 511...it's going to feel really hard.... The point is that either way, this route is really fun and I highly recommend it to everyone. For those you you who like to have fun climbing...don't be discouraged by people who are too good to climb something that has a glued-on hold...they probably don't like having fun anyway....
May 19, 2013
Hey, lost my Gri-Gri 2 here yesterday... if you saw/have it, please call me 303-359-6831. mountainproject.com/v/lost-…
May 28, 2011
Only in Boulder have I heard a difference between onsight and redpoint grades. Seems ridiculous. So, if it takes 8 attempts, does that bump the grade to 10a?
May 28, 2011
Awesome position and movement. One of the best sport climbs in BC.
Aug 21, 2006
I climbed this route yesterday. Just an FYI, it seems the glued block on this route is loose. This was my first time climbing the route so I have no idea what it was like before. When I grabbed the hold I heard it shift in its place. Has it always been like this? It still seems safe to me though because it didn't shift much. It just seems that the glue may not be doing much to hold it in place. Fun route.
Aug 2, 2006
Fun. Great workout. Who could ask for more?
Jul 4, 2006
The glue doesn't bother me; the block in question is big enough that it would be quite a project to safely get it to the ground without going to the road and I also believe that the presence of the block makes the climb better. Something that bothers me more, recently a fist-size pink splotch of paint appeared just below the crux that has been identified as resulting from a paintball, how totally lame.
Aug 29, 2005
Of course redpoint grades feel easier that onsites, hence the concept of a redpoint. Grades are based on onsites. Anyway and more important, all agree this is a great route!
Oct 28, 2003
Brilliant route. 12a onsight grade; 11b/c redpoint.
Oct 28, 2003
Great line, fun climbing.
Jul 13, 2003
I've gotta say that despite the usual sport-crag atmosphere, Easter Rock is one of the best small crags, trad or sport, in the Boulder area. This route in particular, I found to be one of the most enjoyable sport climbs in the Front Range. As compared to other sport climbs of the grade, I think 12a is pretty much right on, though it is a one-move wonder kind of crux. As to Tony's comment above, I don't want to necessarily start a debate on the comparison of sport and trad grades, but yes, it did feel slightly harder than the mid-5.11 cruxes of routes at Eldo like the Naked Edge, Climb of the Century, etc. The difference though, of course, is that you're clipping bolts instead of dicking in RPs or purple TCUs as is typical of those Eldo climbs. Though it is totally different in style, at Eldo Empire is maybe 11c/d? a short 12a crux section
Jun 4, 2003
Hey 'Bubb', who cares? About AC or the grade. This is a great route; nice setting, beautiful moves and has many ways to do the crux. I would suggest this route for women especially since every women I have seen does well on it. Have fun.
Jun 20, 2002
Empire Of The Fenceless was the Easiest of the three 5.12's I did this weekend. I didn't want to confuse my comment regarding chipping with a grades argument though because I am not trying to bitch about the route in general. It was very fun overall. I was, however, trying to express that I was pretty pleased, and then bummed to see the glue. As for the grade, I could have said 5.11b, but I've been getting a lot af flack for "sandbagging" lately, so I figured WTF- maybe I am having a good season... Either that or there really is a big difference between Sport and trad grades. Is Empire Of the Fenceless harder than the crux of The Naked Edge? The Diving Board? Kloof (admittedly, a sandbag at 5.11a)? Not in my opinion. Maybe the bolts being so close make me feel more secure and it is mentally easier, but I'd say it is not much harder than Gravity's Angel or Home Free either (both are 5.11b, sport). Certainly this route did not feel as hard to me as Fuzzy Dice (5.12a sport) on Cadillac crag.
Jun 18, 2002
Soft for .12a, more like .11d.
Jun 18, 2002
I noticed the re-enforced block on the arete as well. The rock that was glued on was obviously native and in place, but It looked junky and I was kinda bummed to see that. Gee, my first "5.12" on-sight of the season and it turns out to be on a "borderline altered" route. Folks, this is otherwise a great route, and would have still been one less that block as well. Why not clean it instead of put a bunch of epoxy up there? With the available holds for feet that are off to the left anyway, I don't think that the climb would have been substantially different without the glue. If you feel that you have to glue something, please do so carefully and discretely, keeping the junk out of sight.
Jun 18, 2002
First, the route name is 'Empire of the Fenceless'- that's my fault for the error. Second, there are glued holds on this route. I honestly can't tell if any were manufactured (I don't think there aree any), but a couple of the jugs have some epoxy behind them for support. Just thought I'd put the word out.
Nov 6, 2001
- Evermore
Regardless of how you do the climbing getting to the last the last bolt, there are still two sections of 5.12 moves in a row - at the 7th bolt & the crux at the 8th (last) bolt. Traversing left out of the rest on Eleanor to reach the 7th bolt isn't hard.
Jul 23, 2017
I personally disagree. I have done both routes Nevermore and Evermore and believe that this is not very hard and gives you no pump. You also skip part of the crux, the traverse section. Then you do basically two moves of crux. It felt pretty easy and went 2nd go. I think it is definitely more in the 12b/c range and would say that Ten Digit Dialing is harder than this route, but I'm just climbing to have fun, and it was a fun route...I'm just giving an opinion.
Feb 14, 2017
This was the third sport route established at the crag in May 1995. I don't know how you can call it contrived or .12b/c. The final crux is the same as Nevermore, but getting to the last bolt presents an interesting dyno as well. After clipping 7th bolt, I make a big dyno with my right hand to the good hold to clip last bolt from. Yes, you could avoid this dyno by traversing more left & doing this section the same way as Nevermore (.12a), but it feels run out enough I have always done the dyno. Cool move. The problem with rating it .12b/c, or even .12c, is this climb is at least two letter grades harder than Tell Tale Heart. I noticed that you are rating Tell Tale Heart (.12b), Train 4 Life. To say this is only half a letter grade harder is absurd. I originally rated Tell Tale Heart .12a, but after watching many climbers slightly shorter than me struggle, I decided it should be rated .12b & thus it was first guidebooked at that grade in 1996. So if you rate Tell Tale Heart (.12a/b), you could rate could rate Evermore (.12c/d). There are 8 bolts total.
Jun 12, 2015
A contrived problem of what is on and off. Grades easier than Nevermore...I think this route is in the 12b range, maybe 12c! Basically no pump going into the crux and then a much easier way to get into it with basically a V4 move to the jug!
Feb 22, 2015
Ha, that's funny Patrick. You're the only other person I 've heard uses that beta other than myself and I've seen lots of people on the finish. That finger lock becomes extra good with the perfect amount of tape on the ring finger you could almost shake out on it. Stellar climb anyway you do it.
Jul 13, 2014
Or you guys could use the obvious finger lock, no dyno required!
Jul 9, 2014
Okay...so left hand on good sloper...right hand on sharp crimp up high! From there, get your right foot up to a small chip and left foot high heel hook...you rock off the heel, and it's not that big of a throw to the jug! Enjoy! :)
Jul 9, 2014
I think there are two ways to toss up to the jug...one uses a sharp R hand with a devious L foot higher than you want, the key is to keep the L foot on long enough to toss/stand up with you L hand to latch the jug. I think the other way involves going up with you R hand with lower, more even feet...better if you are taller.
Jun 7, 2005
Any beta for the crux moves? From the slopey rail, it seems like a monsterous move to a jug. Any trickery here? The crux is difficult to work, since you end up taking repeated sizeable whippers while trying things out.
Jun 6, 2005
Great extension to Elanor. The no hands rest on Elanor makes this significantly less pumpy than Nevermore. Still requires creativity for the devious crux. 8 bolts.
Sep 6, 2004
The variation is called Nevermore and is rated 5.13.a. Starting on Tell Tale Heart would certainly add nicely to the pump factor.
Jun 27, 2002
Another good option is to climb the crux of Telltale Heart, move right above the roof, and hook up with Evermore. This link up is more sustained and flows like honey on hot cakes. Try and suppress the urge to lunge at the crux. Simply jack your right foot up to a good foothold and go all the way with your right hand. The left hand hold is bad (sloper) but body position make the move possible!
Jun 26, 2002
- Flying Beast, The
To the above poster, I would very much like to know how you did that. What do you mean by tic-tac? Also, please explain what you mean by bat-hanging. This route feels like a bolted V5/V6 boulder problem to me, and I wasn't able to get a single productive kneebar. Perhaps if you are downgrading most of the routes by at least a full number grade, you can explain to us what you are doing so well that the rest of us aren't. It seems to me that you troll.
May 18, 2017
I essentially tick-tacked up this thing statically. The key was bat hanging through both cruxes. It would be 11d at Rifle, CO (apparently)....
Oct 31, 2016
Right knee pad helps w/ last two clips. Commenting as a really tall climber, any advantage one gains in one part of the route is later negated. For example, I can reach through the lower crux but have to campus to get fully established in the corner - I have yet to see anyone do lower crux statically. I have noticed that smaller climbers are not nearly as bunched in the middle section of the business. Also, shorter climbers can cop a second kneebar to shake just before the finish, but taller climbers can not.
Oct 25, 2014
Thanks for posting, Mark. I'm definitely a shorter climber 5'6", -1 ape, so that is probably why it feels .13 to me. Regardless, the route is excellent and the movement incredibly fun. I just went up there again yesterday, and I have to say, the condition of the hardware is fine to me. The hangers are totally fine, and the fixed draws are in good condition...maybe getting slightly weather worn but not in need of immediate replacement. On the chain draw, the final thin link is questionable, but has been reinforced with a carabiner, so it is isolated and out of the system. I've certainly whipped hard on much worse.
May 28, 2012
"Flying Beast" has been one of my favorite routes in the canyon since I established it in 1995. The reason that I gave the route a slash grade is because it is a very height- & reach-dependent climb. For me, it is 5.12d, not 5.13a because I am tall. I find "Nevermore" to be just a bit harder, even though it could be rated 5.12d/13a as well. Slash grading makes a lot of sense to me. It is easy to argue over grades, and as a guidebook writer, I have learned no matter hard you try, you will never please everyone. When I look at a route's difficulty, I ask myself what's the hardest you would a climb & what the easiest. Is it soft for its grade or stiff? As for fixed draws. I never considered putting fixed draws on this route. I have redpointed it at least 25 times & cleaning it is not that bad. I think some routes & certain bolts should have fixed chain draws because cleaning them is extremely difficult or bad for your rope. "Mighty Dog" in Clear Creek is one good example and I put the chain draws on that route. It seems like more climbers want to turn the crags into an outdoor gym. Today's redpoint style was yesterday's pinkpoint style. If you have redpointed a route with the draws on it, the next way to up your performance is to redpoint the route 1st try of that day hanging the draws. I have done this on "Flying Beast" a few times. Usually I have redpointed it second try, after a hangdogging up the route I place the draws. That said I don't care that someone fixed draws on this route, but they do need some maintenance from time to time. I can't imagine that the 1/2" Rawl 5 piece bolts need an upgrade, because this route sees very little rain down its ceiling. I will take a look at the draws & bolts soon however. I have much experience replacing bolts, & if any these bolts need replacing, they can removed and the same holes used again. If you don't know how to do this, then don't bother replacing them, I will.
May 25, 2012
If you guys really feel like the condition of the hardware is that bad, and especially if you think it is dangerous, you should think about using the "condition report" function. Personally, the draws didn't look that <%.
May 18, 2012
GEAR WARNING:The fixed draws on the Flying Beast need to be replaced (or removed) ASAP. If I had tools with me yesterday, I would have removed them. DO NOT use the 3rd fixed draw, the fixed link in direct contact with the bolt is badly warn and will break with a good fall. If you want to climb this route in the interim, bring your own draws. Be safe, scared the SH#t out of me and my partner when we saw the condition of this gear.
May 16, 2012
I thought it was solid 11a. C'mon, people. Who cares what the grade is. 13a or 12d is more or less the same, remember? Great route nonetheless with some fun bouldery movements and some challenging clips with a fun finishing move which I couldn't seem to figure out for the life of me until someone showed me. As of 5-5-12, this route is in need of some fixed gear replacement. The very last fixed draw before the anchors which people seem to whip upon a lot is extremely worn on the side where it attaches to the hanger. Not sure if you're going to get this bugger off without a hacksaw. If I get around to it this summer, I plan on replacing the draws with steel permadraws, although the bolts and hangers look like they could use an update as well. Overall, still safe the way it is, but I give the last permadraw a couple more big whips and it's gonna snap off. So, I would hang your draw on that one until someone replaces it. Enjoy!
May 6, 2012
Felt like a 13 to me, but whatever. Certainly seemed harder than anything else I've done at Easter, but notably a totally different style too. It's nice that there are draws hanging on it. They were in pretty good condition as of 30 April, 2012. The last few clips are kind of tenuous, so be aware. They aren't really dangerous, just kind of unsettling. Regardless of any grade controversy, this is a very fun route. One of the best in the area (unless you hate slopers).
May 3, 2012
What's with all the slash grades? They make something that is already highly arbitrary even more meaningless. Take the lower grade and move on.
Aug 6, 2009
The guidebook I have says 12d/13a. I wonder if the consensus would fall closer to there if it were an option on mountain project. I don't want to labor the point since I feel that a lot of the disagreement over grades is because they are dissected so finely. It's just that 12c/d is an option, but 12d/13a is not.
Jul 3, 2008
Physical, athletic movement -- 12d/13a; a high-quality route...
Sep 26, 2006
A very bouldery route, basically a 10-move V5 boulder problem with a couple hard clips, but this is nowhere close to 13a. Maybe on the Boulder Canyon scale you could argue 13a, but at Rifle this would clock in at closer to 12c, even without the knee-bars or hip-scums, which I did not find. Similar in difficulty to Nevermore, maybe a titch harder or easier depending on your strengths.
Jul 12, 2005
This thing is stout, kneepads anyone?
Jun 25, 2005
Note: The previous comment is from the same AC 24.8.164.57 downrating Nevermore. If you had a hard time with Flying Beast and an easier one with Nevermore, maybe one route suits you better. Ease up.
Sep 20, 2004
13a - powerful and MUCH harder than Evermore.
Sep 19, 2004
- Joker, The
We climbed this route today, and there didn't seem to be any more loose death-blocks. The high crux (where I think the flake must have fallen off) is now somewhere around 11d. I stepped left onto some slopers (after some hang-dogging).
Sep 13, 2017
The route is certainly more difficult now! Glad nobody was hurt when the rockfall happened. Some of the carnage: A missing hold.
Jul 25, 2017
The route still goes in its new form, it's actually more interesting now. From the highest layback next to the rock scar, exit left on slopers and mantel onto the pillar. Maybe a little harder now?
Jun 2, 2017
So 6x4 meaning 6 feet by 4 feet? Wow! I know that the top of that route was always a little unconsolidated but yikes!
May 14, 2017
The rockfall event referenced by mc kaiser was major - there was debris visible all around the base of the route today. The trail itself was damaged by the impact. It is miraculous that no one was injured, it easily could have killed the belayer. We did not climb the route but found a few large rocks around the base with chalk on them, so we knew a part of a route and fallen off.
May 13, 2017
I climbed this yesterday and changed the route forever. On the last lieback section I reached for a jug before a large ledge, and upon grabbing it, heard a faint creaking, and suddenly began to fall backwards with a large 6 x 4ish flake in my hands. Fortunately, I'm pretty large, and my belayer (thinking quickly) hopped up while my fall pulled him up and safely away from the rock fall zone. I only came away with a bruised leg and chest, and my partner was unscathed. The scary part about this is that the flake looked totally solid and is very clearly the way the route went. It's now probably a letter grade or two harder. No bolts appear to have been impacted. Wear a helmet! Even if it's 'just' sport climbing.
May 13, 2017
Definitely a low crux on this one and very technical, which doubtless lends heavy credence to its name! Be sure you have a good belayer, as a fall after the first bolt could mean a deck on the block. Very sustained movement afterwards, and largely a mental game! Breathe easy and finish strong!
Aug 27, 2015
Warm-up? Who on earth would warm-up on this one? Right from the get go, you have to reach high off a sketchy block to clip the first bolt, then crimp like hell off opposing side-pulls, grovel your feet left, pull hard and throw to a rounded bump with the right hand, then reach way out left, and continue on insecure verticalness to the top. My partner and I were quite pumped after this 2nd route of the day and felt ready to just go home (but we stayed to flail on more routes). Eleanor was more sustained for sure, but this had a more technical, insecure, and just plain weird start.
May 26, 2015
Polished and Grovelly(sp?), with a necessary tree encounter at the top. There are more worthy warmups at Easter Rock.
Jun 1, 2011
The opening moves are kind of reachy and the landing is not great and if you're short like me (5'4"), it's hard to hang the first draw from a safe stance. If the draw is already hung, clipping the rope is possible. Luckily, some nice boys let me use their stick clip pole thingy.
Aug 10, 2008
Not very similar Elanor, there is a sit down rest 1/2 way, although it feels rather obscene.
Jul 16, 2008
I think it is because Elanor one is more sustained and people burn out. I felt more pressed on that one. I suppose The Joker could be more technical, but doesn't punch as hard at the top....
May 1, 2008
Funny to see Elanor getting an 11+ rating and this route 11b on this site. I would agree with the 11 rating for this route. It actually feels harder than Elanor to me. From what I've seen with other folks climbing it, I bet Elanor gets onsighted more than this route. My point being Elanor at 11+ is probably quite over rated. The ratings in Bolter Canyon sure are wacky... But then BC is its own world.
May 1, 2008
People tend to get shutdown on this route. Having a hair-raising and pumping experience on the onsight, I agree that this route is quality and fun. Having watched most climbers get shutdown hard, I understand why some do not regard it so highly. Relax, have fun, and pull hard - this route is cool.
May 14, 2004
Did this route again last night and I have to say this is a pretty great line for a 6 bolt 11b. It overhangs the whole way and stays in your face with slippery feet and hidden holds - it couldn't be much better. I think it is one of the better middle 11 sport routes in all of Boulder Canyon.
Aug 21, 2002
This is fun, varied route with a brutal and deceiving opening sequence. Above that is a weird flare that feels very awkward and insecure. Finally, it finishes with burly lieback moves.
Jul 16, 2002
- Knappweed Herbacide
FYI - the route actually has 5 bolts on it before the anchors (though the first two are super close).
Apr 24, 2017
I suppose it might be 10b or so if you stay under the bolt line at the start as the holds are sloping downward, but as this was a warm-up, I climbed left of the bolt line on easier ground.
May 26, 2015
It is worth noting that the second pitch climbs very well at around 5.12+ (height-dependent). Despite being chipped, the stone is great, and the moves are fun.
Nov 4, 2014
P1 is a great warm-up (as the description says), but I wouldn't have thought it was any harder than .10.
Jun 12, 2013
P1 is 10a/b-ish, P2 goes at 13a-ish.
Aug 1, 2007
I don't get how the name implies warm-up.
Jul 15, 2002
The extension is plainly chipped. It would not be "free-climbable" otherwise, but this certainly deserves noting.
Mar 7, 2002
A decent 'warm up' route as mentioned in the name. The bottom is a bit of an eliminate but once situated on the arete, the climbing is nice to the top. Wondering what the second half of this route goes at, from the anchors to next 5 bolts? I would only give this a 1 star for rock quality and the amount of lichen still on the rock. Well protected moves getting over the first lip and to the anchors.
Sep 12, 2001
- Mr. Two-Face
I guess it is "easy" compared to the other routes at this cliff, but this combination is much harder than either the Joker or the Riddler as it combines the hardest parts of both, though you do get a pretty decent rest before switching routes. Very continuous, challenging climbing.
Aug 26, 2002
- Nevermore
There are several ways to dispatch the crux. Only one way worked for me, and it was very low percentage with some precise body positioning. If you are tall, I can see harder 12 for this route. For everyone else, 13a seems fair. I have never fallen slipping off a finishing hold so many times.
Oct 18, 2017
I don't know. I never climbed a 13 before, AND I'm ugly...probably only 12b.
Oct 8, 2015
Or just clean the route on the backside as an extra "training" pitch.
Sep 13, 2015
Another way to clean the route is to climb back down from the anchor-remove the last clip-finish on Tell Tale. We found this way creates an easier clean, and you get in some more climbing.
Aug 24, 2015
In response to Jay Samuelson not understanding the anchor placement: Evermore was established before Nevermore, & the anchor works good for it. Secondly, I did not want someone doing Tell Tale Heart to go to this anchor. Climbers can climb Evermore & Tell Tale Heart at the same time, but not if they mistakenly arrive at the same anchor. Thirdly, before drilling, I always hammer tap the rock to make sure it is solid & not hollow sounding. I can't remember if this could have a factor. As for cleaning, it seems that gyms have raised some very strong climbers whose technical skills are a bit lacking. Try tramming to the rope with a single biner attached to your belay loop rather than a draw. I do use a draw but clip the rope biner directly to the loop, so I am into a single biner to the rope versus clipping the bolt biner into the belay loop & rope biner into the rope. The commom second method is a good way to pinch the skin on your bicep between rope & biner or your breast, ladies. Tramming in short generally avoids skin or nimble loss & keeps you in closer. Try it on the steepest overhang. It works. Lastly, I don't usually clean the first bolt when lowering. I climb back up from the ground to retrieve it afterwards.
Jun 30, 2015
Definitely one of my all time favorites. Tell Tale Heart was the first sport route on the crag, followed by Elanor, then Evermore (the easier way to get to the same crux from Elanor), then Empire Of The Fenceless, then Flying Beast. After that, I put up Nevermore in July 1995. I had the crux move wired doing it on "Evermore" but fell just shy on the horizontal jug break for almost 5 days on Nevermore. I had to find a better way to dyno this crux. I finally redpointed it on day 6. After the first ascent, I repeated it numerous times that summer. I have probably redpointed it 20 times between 1995 & 2004. I have thought it could be rated 5.12d/13a. I am tall, & it feels like .12d in good cool conditions, but I have done it so many times it isn't fair to call it anything but .13a (what I originally rated it). I love the flow of the moves on this climb & the aggressive crux dyno. Best day at this crag has been sending Elanor, Flying Beast, Nevermore, The Penguin, & Empire Of The Fenceless. That's a good day.
Jun 11, 2015
What a great route! It just keeps getting better and better as you climb higher and higher, climaxing with an awesome deadpoint to a mega-jug! Doesn't get much better than that, I had a really good time working on and climbing this route. Definitely one of the best, if not the best route at the crag. I didn't understand why the anchor bolts are 3 feet to the right though, makes cleaning more difficult.
Sep 4, 2012
This route is truly amazing and one of the best at Easter Rock. You get to do the amazing and fun crux of Tell Tale Heart, then cut right and go through a burly section of slopey moves to a final deadpoint off a really bad sloper. This route is dope and definitely 4 stars in my book. Do it when it's cold!
Jun 27, 2012
This thing definitely felt 5.13a. Sure, it is much easier with the right beta, but then again so is every route. By far one of the best in Boulder Canyon. Super fun climb with awesome movement!
Jun 29, 2010
Things to know if you want to do this route to beef up your 8a scorecard, or just your spraysumé, and aren't the type to just climb for the experience of climbing: > Crux finale seems stout for the shorter climber using the right-hand-crimp method. Heel hooks are NOT mandatory at the crux. > Basically feels like climbing a solid 5.12a followed by a 5-to-6-move V5. > I'd say it was soft if I hadn't missed the finishing jug a half-dozen times already. Beware. > My buddy who did Sonic Youth (5.12d/13a) found this to be more difficult, in that Sonic took him fewer tries. > I think this route does favor the power climber, since the climbing leading up to the crux is pretty easy, especially when you get it dialed. Chuff on, chuffers.
Oct 27, 2008
This is a fantastic route--sustained, pumpy, and technical on cool holds. Highly recommended.
May 3, 2006
I have seen very well established climbers not be able to do the moves on this route - much less link it. For those who feel it is easy for the grade - more power to you.
Dec 28, 2004
This route can feel a lot easier depending on conditions and the height of the climber. If you feel a route is off by two letter grades you should probably register and let us all know who's keeping the "newbies" in their place. Some who think this route is pretty hard aren't newbies.
Sep 20, 2004
12c not even close to thirteen a - sorry, newbies.
Sep 19, 2004
13b/c.
Aug 26, 2004
12c.
Aug 25, 2004
Now Ryan,.....be nice.
Sep 12, 2002
I heard Willie flogs dead horses when he's not sending 5.13....
Aug 30, 2002
This is one of the better routes I have done in the canyon. Sustained technical power endurance culminating in some nice sloper moves and a throw. Can't ask for much more.
Aug 18, 2002
- New Road
Super fun! A 60m is good for rappel from the top anchor, with enough left over that I'd guess lowering would work too.
Jun 16, 2016
Oh, this is a very fun climb, esp. the overhanging jug bit and the chunky top section, too. Would be a great warm-up, except for the first 2 strenuous, sketchy clips.
May 27, 2015
FFA: Alan Nelson, probably 2000.
Oct 23, 2014
- New Test Of Men
Certainly, a memorable route & one I have repeated several times since Alan & I made the first ascent on September 16, 2000. We originally rated it 5.12a, but I think it isn't quite that hard, & I call 5.11d. The moves past the 2nd & 3rd bolt on pitch 2 are the crux, but the redpoint crux is the finish. Lots of 5.11 climbing on pitch 2. I find it slightly more difficult than Elanor (which I have pretty wired). I would say they are the same grade. The moves at the start of pitch 1 have always felt like solid 5.11 & involve some awkward stemming. The first 2 bolts are close, & I don't remember thinking the clip to the 2nd bolt was a big deal. As for combining the two pitches into one, it isn't something I've ever done. The sloping ledge atop pitch 1 is a great rest. It is nice to have good communication with your partner on the 2nd pitch, so I would recommend doing the climb in two pitches.
Jul 23, 2017
I saw the bottom boulder problem done three different ways. The way I did it involved stemming, creative footwork, small crimps, and went no harder than V2. It was easy enough to clip the bolts. Overall, a really good route when the pitches are combined and a good second warm-up after Road to Emmaus. Use extended alpine draws or long runners on some of the bolts when linking up P1 & P2. Plenty of rope left with a 70. A 60 might just make it to the ground.
Jul 23, 2014
I felt the bottom was V2/3. Not a great warmup as the crux is off the ground.
Sep 6, 2013
I really don't think the start is any harder than .11a/b. It's just really f*cking awkward working through those first two bolts. I would recommend stick-clipping them; if you blew either of them, it could make for a pretty bad day.
Jun 12, 2013
No warm up, and I still thought the lower boulder problem was no harder than 5.11, but I'm a strong crimper.
Jul 14, 2012
2.5 stars. The boulder problem start is much harder than anything on the 2nd pitch, definitely harder than 5.11. 2nd pitch is quite good, but expect rope drag if using standard length draws. There is one bolt that is too far to the left around a sharp arete that really adds to the rope drag.
Aug 22, 2008
- Penguin, The
Good warm-up to burn off your friends.
Sep 6, 2017
Juggy flake is gone! Now you hit the recently revealed holds just above the 4th bolt. Go up left to a sloping flake in the corner, then dyno up to the sloper over the lip. Fun new 5.12 moves.
Jun 2, 2017
This is such a cute route! Being a yogini helps make it easier. Really enjoyed.
Jul 26, 2015
Not too bad until you hit the crux. Then it's hard.
Jan 12, 2014
Climbing the arete slightly right of the crimpy crux makes it 12a.
Jul 2, 2012
- Pterodactyl Traverse
In August 2000, I actually did more than just equip this climb. I redpointed to where I was able to grab the right anchor (.12c). My intent was not to stop here but to traverse more left to the jug on the lip of the giant overhang. Here the anchor can be clipped. So I took the right anchor bolt out & put a new left anchor bolt in. The original left bolt becoming the right, so you couldn't end the route this way. I then added the last protection bolt which is a hard clip. The last moves to the jug are quite hard. I was never able to do them. I haven't been on it for years, but I am surprised to see it rated only .12d. The finish seemed more like 5.13. I had no problem letting Peter get the FFA. I had enough of the bat shit flake. The hard traverse past the flake is excellent if you can stomach the flake.
May 25, 2015
Ben, that is an old project. The traverse is chipped, but the upper seam/corner is all natural and brick hard, maybe V13 bouldering?
May 7, 2015
Does anyone know the name of the line just to the left of the climber in the picture (in between this one and Dynamic Duel)? There is also a bolted traverse running through that is not listed on this site or in the book.
May 5, 2015
This route is much better than the first twenty feet look, and it is possible to avoid the brown stuff. It's left of the Flying Beast not Dynamic Duel. You get to the finishing jug by moving down and left, not by going straight up to the area of the anchors.
Aug 29, 2002
This climb follows the obvious traverse line on the left end of the long overhang.
Jun 25, 2002
When giving the details, please give info that will get one to the climb without a guidebook in hand. Dynamic Duel is referenced. Where is that?
Jun 20, 2002
- Rain Shadow
What's up with finishing on the Flying Beast anchors? Doesn't Rain Shadow have its own set of manky tat anchors to go to? I don't blame anyone for not wanting to use those anchors as they're definitely not as confidence inspiring as the ones on FB but continuing directly up the crack in the corner seems like the intended line. Did Dan Hare have anything to say about the finish when the above video was made?
Jul 12, 2009
Video of the climb at. vimeo.com/5235917
Jul 9, 2009
- Riddler, The
I totally agree with awkward and weird. Sometimes more satisfying to send those. Fun, delicate traverse to kind of desperate corner that felt hard on onsight. Definitely pulled out some shoulder scums while trying find the jug at top of corner.
Sep 18, 2017
Awkward and weird, so a must do! The anchor is invisible from below and is up on a slab well above the last bolt. Two solid bolts with a ring, so no reason to lower earlier. It did seem like a foot hold has disappeared from the last ledge. I'm 5'6" and just campused up and right from the good left hand hold. Maybe I missed something.
Mar 16, 2017
Very beta intensive. There are a lot of sucker holds.
May 31, 2011
Harder than Elanor...\;o) IMHO.
Aug 7, 2009
1 star? Come on! At some BoCan cliffs, this would be 3 stars and the best climb on the crag.
Jul 14, 2005
- Road To Emmaus
It has probably been over a decade since I last did this climb, but I did it a couple times at least. Alan wasn't trying to contrive a "bouldery, lip encounter" problem on pitch 2. I do remember using a big undercling on the right. As for the rating, I don't have a strong opinion, except to say I don't think it is only .11a. I was climbing quite strong in 2000 & climbing a lot. 4 times a week & sometimes 10 pitches of 5.11a to 5.13a in a day.
Jul 23, 2017
Both pitches can be linked into one super pitch, which I think goes as 11b, but use long draws or even some runners, or the rope drag at the top will be really bad.
Jul 17, 2014
For what it's worth, the chain on the first bolt is back.
Oct 14, 2012
There was a chain on the first bolt for several years that eliminated the unneccesarily dangerous moves to the first bolt. Someone swiped it. Bring a stick clip, replacement chain or health insurance.
Jul 21, 2012
Terrific climbing, but don't blow it getting to the first bolt.
Jul 28, 2010
A 60m gets you to the ground with plenty to spare.
Sep 10, 2009
I agree with Chris -- 2nd pitch is easy 11 and using the undercling/sidepull follows the line naturally. 2nd pitch is one of the best jug hauls in Boulder Canyon at the grade. The fun factor is very high on this one. Probably the best "easy" route at Easter Rock.
Aug 22, 2008
Mark rates the 2nd pitch of this route 11d in his guide. It looks like from the way they bolted it they were contriving a bouldery, lip encounter on the first roof. I used a big undercling on the right and it feels like easy 11, much easier than, say, Crash Test Blonde at Security Risk...but very, very fun. The 1st pitch of New Test of Men can be linked with the 2nd pitch of this route as one pitch. Don't clip the belay bolts as you go by the anchor at the top of the 1st pitch. A 70M rope will lower to the ground from the top. I think a 60M might work for the lower, too, but I haven't tried it. It makes for a pretty fun, long pitch and a good warm up for the crag. Take 16 draws.
Aug 10, 2008
- Surrounded By Reality
The right branch is the correct way to do this route, the center roof is still a project with the bottom part coming up from the left, still in progress.
Aug 21, 2002
12c sounds right. I took the right branch at the roof since there was chalk on it . I hope this was the right way.
Aug 20, 2002
- Tell-Tale Heart
This was the first sport route established at this crag in May 1995. I originally rated it .12a. For me, it is much easier than Plan B or Joyride. It was only after watching many good shorter climbers struggle & call it 5.12 that I decided to rate it .12b. Shorter climbers climb the crux differently making more moves. This route was the beginning of a long, wonderful summer of putting up new routes at the crag.
Jul 1, 2015
There are size 12 shoes left that are up by Flying Beast...also, there is a draw I took down off of Tell Tale Heart's last bolt. If this is someone's, please e-mail me with what type of draw it is and what it looks like/color and it is yours...I apologize for the inconvenience.
Jun 11, 2014
Classic route in my opinion though a bit polished. I think that's to be expected though in Boulder Canyon. The crux moves are pretty devious if you end up getting suckered into moving too high into the corner under the roof. Also a note on the anchor - there are not cold shuts, only chains at the top of this route currently. 8 bolts, plus two for the anchor. The moves at the top are a bit... peculiar. My partner and I both went straight up, not right, by using a bit of dynamic force. There are some holds there to use.
Jun 25, 2013
Okay, I take back my comment I put up a year ago about this route not being four stars. It's definitely fun, and the most exciting finish going right on Nevermore makes it even better.... Get after it....
Jul 10, 2012
Yes, the crux clip can be skipped, and the fall is fine.
May 22, 2012
Great Route, although I wouldn't give it four stars. It was a bit polished and fairly juggy with the exception of the crux section. It's a hard onsight too without having any beta, the heavily chalked holds split at the crux and can be a bit deceptive. Super fun though.... I don't think you can compare to Discipline, The Shaft, or Joy Ride which are all true 4 star 12b's in the area. Get on them if you haven't!!!!
Jul 2, 2011
The crux clip is extremely difficult for me off of that gaston. I'm thinking I'm just going to skip it next time I'm up there. Anyone ever do this?
May 31, 2011
Hey, left my Gri-Gri 2 here yesterday... if you have it, please call me 303-359-6831. mountainproject.com/v/lost-…
May 28, 2011
"Overhung, powerful, and sustained."
Aug 1, 2007
Great route. Benchmark 12a.
May 15, 2007
Tricky and powerful. Made me feel like a weakling. So good!
Jul 4, 2006
Someone left two locking carabiners on the anchor for this route which I'm assuming was by mistake. If you can identify them, let me know and I'll return them to you.
May 10, 2004
Tricky and powerful crux. Very fun moves.
Jul 13, 2003
One of the better sport routes in the Canyon. The crux is awkward... kind of like a harder version of the corner on Elanor (the route to the right)... some of the good holds in this section seemed like sucker holds. The 7th bolt, at the end of the crux section, was very difficult to clip. hard 12b.
Jun 4, 2003
This is a fantastic route, but was I missing something up by the anchors? I had a hard time finding any holds at all about 5 feet below the anchors (well above both cruxes). I was probably just blind from lactic-acid buildup...
Jan 1, 2001
Re: Pete Franzen's comment. I am sure that you found this in the end. However, a good stance for getting to the anchor can be had by cutting right around those rounded bulges, about ten feet below the anchor. You pick up good hands, and by staying cool can quickly step back left, over the bulge and right below the anchor. It turns out to be a good stance for clipping the anchor. I thought that the crux was also a bit circuitous. Cut hard left around the roof, and take scary move back right over the roof for a clip. Still, this is a great route and worth the effort to figure out.
Jan 1, 2001
- Thunderdome
I put a quicklink with some chain up. The anchor is now bomber.
Jun 14, 2017
A few things: first, this is a great route, do it. Second, the fixed nut at the roof popped on me. I placed 0.4 equivalent below it, so it wasn't a big deal. I didn't replace the nut. It's unnecessary and detracts from the route in my opinion. Third, the anchors need a bit of work. There are two bomber bolts that are equalized with chain to a single quicklink holding a rap ring. This is the definition of not redundant. I added some cord and a biner, but what is really needed is some chain and another rap ring. I'll try to fix it next time I'm up there, in the mean time, don't steal my cord and biner. Finally, when cleaning be careful. I unclipped my tram and had a really bad encounter with a tree. The best thing to do is have someone follow, but if that isn't possible: clean to below the roof with a tram, lower to the ground with the tram still on, pull the rope so you have a stick clip through the remaining pieces, climb up to the last piece, and then downclimb, cleaning as you go. If anyone has a better way to clean, I'd love to know. Also, I didn't meet any bats.
Jun 12, 2017
Really phenomenal, bonafied 4 stars. There are several constrictions of various sizes in the roof crack at the crux that serve excellently as opposition finger locks for the move to the finger jam above the roof, and then a sinker heel hook below the roof keeps your hips in for the lock off move to the jug. Great, great, great.
Sep 8, 2016
Really good crack route, particularly for Boulder Canyon. I thought it was right up there with Country Club, etc. in terms of quality. Good rock, good protection, steep, cool temps on a summer evening. What more could you ask for? In terms of difficulty, I thought 12a seemed pretty accurate. It was similar to other 12a's I have been on at Vedauwoo, Platte, BC, etc. That being said, I am generally better at enduro routes than bouldery power routes, such as this one. Gear is straightforward and not strenuous or pumpy, so it basically boils down to hammering through 3 or 4 tough moves. Tough one to onsight, as there is almost too much stuff to work with.
Jul 10, 2009
Amazing route. Thunderdome is pretty moderate before and after the crux, but the crux moves felt like solid 12a. My beta seemed different from everyone else's here so the best advice I have is just to get out there and figure it out for yourself. You'll likely have it to your lonesome even on sunny summer weekends. Isn't it great bringing trad gear to a sport crag.
Jun 24, 2008
Given how some of the sport routes here gets more than 3 star average, I'm hesitant to give this 3 stars, but I think that's all it deserves. It does not have a crack crux or any sustained hard crack section. I hung & fell at the crux (I was already pumped from a couple sport routes) before figuring out it was a bouldering problem, not a finger crack crux. Still, this feels at most 11+ for somebody with strong arms. At any rate, the protection is pretty straightforward and falls from the crux or above are clean.
Jul 6, 2007
Interesting to see the upgrading for this. I did this again today for the second time. The first was about five years ago. I haven't placed much gear recently and would say that if you know what you're doing placing pro, this shouldn't be too epic. It took a long time to figure what gear should go where, like placing a #1.5 Friend in the key jam at the crux and then having to take it out and leave room for my hand. Fortunately the crux is brief and the rest of the climb is littered with jugs. On the other hand, I did Nevermore, Flying Beast and Catwoman on the same visit and they felt much easier overall.
Oct 2, 2005
Fabulous route. One of the best trad climbs of its grade in the Boulder area. Powerful crux. I thought Chris Peisker led this on the FA.
May 30, 2004
You asked for beta so here's what I did: at the roof, there's a decent thin left hand jam, thumbs up, which allows you to move way out right to stick a good right hand side pull thats well-chalked. I toe-hooked my left foot in the crack to help out on balance while reaching for that right hand, that move is fun, wild, and probably 11+. Next, get the right foot around the corner to the right on a decent hold, then left foot onto a higher sloper horizontall just under the roof, and set up for a BIG reach to a jug, the crux move. I had to dyno to get it, but it's quite good. From there, make sure NOT to put a cam in the hand jam in front of you (as I've mistakenly done) or it will be very hard to climb past it without the jam. Use a nut or go a little higher before pro'ing. Excellent 5.10 or easy 5.11 climbing from there to the top.
Sep 25, 2003
Super fun route, but I keep getting spit out of the jams through the roof. Anyone got any good beta? It's rattly fingers there and feels burly for 12a....
Jun 18, 2003
I don't think the block above the roof is much to worry about -- I knocked on it hard (and pulled on it hard), and it seems really wedged in. Now watch me get sued!! Great climb: pumpier than it looks up to the roof, cool moves over the roof (easier if you're not short), another very hard move, then great 5.10 to the top. Now for the redpoint.....
Jul 16, 2002
Highly recommended if you're looking for a well-protected 12a trad route. I stuck three bomber Aliens in the roof (yeah, I'm a wuss) and finally went for it after hanging out for a while in the awkward "rest" below the crux.
Sep 25, 2001
- Trustafarian Panhandler
Haven't climbed it, but I am a fan of the name.
Oct 17, 2016
- White Men Can't Jump
If you're using Bob D's guidebook, this route is mislabeled on the topo (although the description is correct). If you follow the lines on the topo, you will end up on Dynamic Duel like us.
Jul 13, 2017
- Willard
This is up there with bad routes I've done in the canyon. The finishing move is just WEIRD.
Jan 12, 2014
1st bolt is total sketch. Finish is really weird, and reeks of rat shit.
Jul 11, 2012
The first 3/4 of the route has very delicate, balancey moves. Everything feels insecure like you are just about to smear off. Then a good rest and a huge jug rail to the anchors...which I eloquently flopped across in true beached whale fashion. Not sure how much fun it would be blowing the anchor clip on this climb. Satisfying climb for me though.
Jul 29, 2007
Just did this route a couple days ago - tricky, esp. as a warm up! Three of us did the route, 3 different variations for doing the crux. It's a lot harder than it looks from the ground. The Joker, 3 routes to the left, is a better warm up, though that has a couple thoughtful bits as well.... Oh, and we stayed dry in the rain!
Jul 25, 2002
- Electra Glide
- Bloody Monday
As the description says, the original rusted 3/8" stud bolt with rusted, thin SMC hanger has been replaced. The threads were stripped on the stud and the nut glued, but the whole bolt spun with the nut itself when trying to loosen the nut, which prevented being able to remove the nut as well as the bolt itself and thus preventing reusing the same hole. The new bolt location is a little closer to the arete, which makes it actually a touch easier to clip on the lead. Anyway, thanks to the Boulder Climbing Community for providing the bolt. Please support them if you don't already.
Sep 3, 2015
- Catch You Later
The flake has been cleaned. The remaining climb as left should be safe and protect-able. Have at it. As well, the torn and mossy webbing anchor (which was crap) has been replaced with 2 bolts to the left that won't kill the tree and will serve as a top anchor for any of the routes there.
Sep 2, 2015
Another fun TR from the Electra Glide anchors is the "Goof Roof", which lies between the two climbs. Not really worth wasting the metal on to establish it as an independent line, but there are super fun roof moves to a delicate slab which eventually joins the upper crack of E.G. at about 10+ to 11-.
Aug 12, 2012
June, 2010: Well worth trying on TR, but considerably harder than 9+, me thinks. I was looking and saw little opportunity for pro above the roof, with the exception of behind the tiny little flake, which as mentioned, moves when you pull on it. If you can get past that, there is a marginal slot above that that would take a piece, then the huge flake above that, which also moves when you put weight on it. I'd recommend just leading Electra-Glide then TR this from the tree, and even on TR this is quite a challenging "Yosemite-style" set of moves.
Jun 22, 2010
This is a very worthwhile climb and easy to do after Electra Glide. The body positions on this climb are very unique.
May 20, 2009
As Tony mentions, most/all of the gear in the upper crux section is placed in contact with a large, long flake or two that sound kind of hollow with the flake expanding possible. I thought one or two placements in the crux might have held a fall but still wouldn't want to test it out... There are rap slings in the tree at the top of the climb to descend.
Jul 17, 2005
The flake at the crux, which is your ONLY opportunity for pro has a 1/8 to 3/16 inch crack behind it, but flexes ~1/4 inch. If you were to fall on pro behind it you might turn a loose flake into a death flake (fall on you). There is good protection below the roof that would keep you off of the ground, so make sure you get it and then run it out a little- and be SURE you are solid at the grade.
Jul 7, 2005
Note: This is climb #2 in the beta photo. The climb makes a reasonably well protected lead with bomber gear up to the roof and then small nut and microcam placements in the crux section.
Jun 27, 2005
- Electra Glide
It doesn't get more splitter in Boulder Canyon. This lightning-bolt finger crack is a hidden gem... hiding in plain sight apparently, as it's roadside!
May 23, 2016
This is an excellent little climb if you have limited time. The approach takes about 30 seconds from the car.
May 20, 2009
Did Bruce climb this as a first ascent before 1976?Scott Woodruff did it then with Dan Hare and Rossiter gives them credit for the first ascent. Please correct me if Bruce's ascent preceeds theirs.
Sep 20, 2005
Dave Rosenthal and I did this route in July 1977 and called it the "Masterbatorium" (5.9-). Remember it was a fun crack lead. It really seemed ours was the FA, though, because we had to clean the crack top-to- bottom before leading it. Lots of mud, small tree and bushes. Perhaps Scott W. TRed it earlier, but ours was certainly the first true ground up lead ascent. Maybe the name was too impure for the Boulder-scene of that time? Tried doing a Goggle-search and found plenty of examples of the usuage.
Oct 15, 2004
Bruce Morris (with David Rosenthal)was credited with the first ascent for awhile but he named it Masurbotorium and somehow that didn't go over well. Any recollections Bruce?
Oct 7, 2004
This can also be done as a foot traverse. Delicate.
Sep 9, 2002
Insecure feet- this route requires confidence in some near-hands-traverse like moves, but does protect pretty well on nuts, tricams, and tcu's. A good test for the leader aspiring to be "solid" on 5.8
Sep 9, 2002
- Elephant Buttresses
- Dome Boulder, The
- Center Route
- Dome Boulder Traverse
Nice addition, Mark! I really enjoyed this traverse. I found the crux to be about V1 for a couple moves, but most of the traverse is much easier. There are definitely ways to make this harder if so desired. It's a great place to get a quick workout without pads or a partner. I added what I creatively dubbed "Center Route" (V0) to this wall, which I found to be a great line also. Center Route has top out holds, but the other possible lines may require some insecure mantle moves to top out from what I could see at the top. I may bring pads up here at some point to explore the other lines I was checking out on this wall. Does anyone know if there are any established lines on here? I don't think I have ever seen this boulder in a book or anything.
Jul 17, 2015
- Elephant Boulders
- First Buttress
- Carly Was With Us
- Flash Dihedral (Knapp Version)
Outstanding first lead for the grade. Easy to get to, solid rock, offers finger-to-hand-sized pro the whole way, walk off. There are even a few ledges for those wanting to get comfortable with belay anchors and transitions.
Apr 8, 2017
I LOVED the upper section of this route. Wish it was longer!
Jun 16, 2013
I did a bit of a variation on this (see photo above) since Bob D'Antonio's new guidebook didn't have a photo, and I hadn't printed out the above photo. I was trying to go what looked to be the easiest route since my partner is still new to climbing, and the most protectable route since I'm new to trad leading. I got myself into a bit of a tough section (5.8 or so), but it was very short and also fun! Bomber pro the whole way, but most of it seemed to be the same size (0.4-0.5 C4s or medium nuts, or small tricams). Excellent belay ledge up top with bomber pro and a great view. Rock quality was great the whole way.
Nov 11, 2011
Did this route today since we walked right by it on the hike back from Standard Route (3rd Buttress). Glad we did it -- good easy fun. We started a bit lower than the red line in the Mtn Proj picture above, but veered left of the red line during our climb to stay on more vertical rock. There are so many cracks on this portion of the rock, you could climb it in dozens of ways. Difficulty depends on the line you take, could be made very easy if desired, but I thought the line we took on the left felt about 5.6ish in a few places.
Jul 16, 2011
I came back out to Boulder a few weeks ago and did this route with an old bud after work. Faced with Californihoards on the Dome etc it looked like an interesting option. I kind of liked the route, relatively clean, and was amazed in all the years I'd lived there I had not done. I agree with Phil that if you scheme to stay more left more on the upper part (slabs) as I did, it seemed a bit harder than 5.6. I have to say I was a bit bummed before I read this post as that step across gave me a "sh*t...this is 5.4??" feeling. I thought it was kind of a pretty steep-slabby type line. Better than some of the other blocky moderates on the EBs.
Jun 30, 2009
Very surprised by the 5.7 rating of this climb. No harder than 5.5 IMO. I have done harder 5.4s at the Gunks!
Sep 25, 2008
This felt really easy. I would rate it 5.6 at the most, maybe 5.5... I had to go back and do it straight up all the slabs without using the big cracks (on TR) to make it feel like a 5.8
Aug 24, 2008
This is a decent route, and I would recommend it as an excellent beginner trad lead. There are pro opportunities everywhere and the length is good for a first lead. The climbing felt like 5.5 or less to me. A pink (0.5" I think) Camp tri-cam works perfectly at the horizontal crack at the crux in the middle of the route. IMHO the standard route on the third buttress or the Owl/Cozyhang or even East Slab are substantially more fun in the area.
May 24, 2008
- Flash Dihedral (Rossiter Version?)
I have to say the route described in Knapp's guide as Flash Dihedral is much better.
Apr 20, 2008
We climbed what is pictured as Flash Dihedral in Knapp's guide today. Clean cracks made for a fun route, but more of a 5.6 than 8+. Must not be what Pat Ament climbed in 1970, and doesn't sound like what T Bubb describes above, but offers a fun easy well protected 5.6 beginner lead not described anywhere else. Strange.
Jan 2, 2004
- Wandering Jew
- Fourth Buttress
- .... Variation of Mickey Mantel
This start has been lead before now. I did it with Ben Schneider, and I'm sure it's been done before even then. Also P2 is most likely the route called Azimuth, although Dan Hare doesn't fully recall where they went but is pretty positive that's it.
Feb 22, 2015
The tricky gear and the incredible handlebar jug over the lip of the roof are quite memorable and hard to forget.... Really fun moves!
Nov 30, 2014
Can't say as if I have any info on that first pitch as you describe it, but the first time I went up to do MM my partner didn't like the ledge fall and bailed out to the right. So I can tell you that was done a decade ago. I went up it a second time to do the mantle proper and Partick F. followed me that time. So P2 has history despite not being the proper route. I'll have to see if P1 is one of the things Jason and I did when we went up there to "do the rest" in 2012. That's when we did the "Undocumented roof" and saw GG and documented that as well. Jason did sketches of everything, but I just took a few pics for later reference and went from that.
Nov 28, 2014
Thanks, George, for the info and the history on this line. I assumed that someone had climbed sections of this line in the past... After cleaning and excavating many important placements, I wondered...? After the large roof on the left that we climbed, the diagonal seem trending rightward was choked with dirt and moss to the point that it didn't appear any one had ever placed gear there before... Now it has been cleaned and takes good nuts for protection. I also cleaned the classic corner section above of dirt, grass, and bushes.... This is when I thought that this line had possibly not been climbed before.... After reading Tony B's description of Mickey's Mantel, it seems the start is the crack/corner feature 15' to the right of the pumpy roof that we climbed. Then, the top of the 1st pitch at the belay ledge/cave, "Mickey's Mantle" pulls the dramatic, steep, "ledge fall potential" roof out the left side of the "cave belay" and into the obvious thin crack above. We instead climbed the arching, right-facing corner above the belay ledge that took some obvious cleaning too (which may have been climbed or not???). We chose to finish up with the dihedral around the back, and that seemed to have seen some traffic in the past. Overall, the line that we climbed is quite classic and really fun, especially after some much needed cleaning! I'll have to climb the start to the right sometime. I would recommend climbing the arching corner instead of the wild, "barely protected, ledge-fall "Mantle" above the belay ledge. Many different variations exist for this classic line....
Nov 25, 2014
This route (purple line on the posted photo) has appeared in guidebooks going back to 1976. It is called Mickey Mantel (FRA: Joe Frank and Steve Hall, 1975).
Nov 21, 2014
- Candelaria's Crack
- Flake
Pretty bouldery and stiff start to this one if you opt to tackle the face directly, without stemming. Getting off the ground and into the route was the crux for me, and then some great 10 moves followed until getting up on the slab. The R section comes about half way up the route and involved some balancey 5.9 moves. I followed this one, so I can't vouch for how scary a lead it was, but it didn't seem too bad.
Oct 22, 2010
A neat route, with long legs you can avoid the 10c crux with some serious back stemming in the chimney. The face up above is spooky and committing, but way cool. Expect some lichen and not much chalk to guide the way.
Sep 21, 2007
- Heartland, The
I'm giving this route three stars for what it COULD be, not what it is. It's infested with lichen and slippery when wet, but the climbing is excellent, the pro is good, and the position is superb. If only it got more traffic...or a good brushing. Do your part. Do this route! Oh, and the short second pitch is also quite good and lichen-free.
May 23, 2011
One bad-ass route! Not for the meek leader just getting use to 5.9. Short and sweet with a nice bit of creative pro at the begining of the first pitch. Enjoy! The route will only get better!
Sep 25, 2002
I forgot to mention that this route has a lot of lichen, and that it would rate much higher if it got a good cleaning, but despite this the gear is great and BOMBER.
Sep 18, 2002
- Mickey Mantel
- Northwest Face
This definitely did not disappoint! We TR'd it with the idea of climbing the main route and variation. but halfway through, a typical Boulder 50-60 mph gale force wind came ripping through the canyon in advance of a snow storm tomorrow, so we only did the main route. We took a slightly different line from that of the Beta photo: about 15 feet from the top we cut back right about 5 feet into the visible cleft which ends at the top, which was slightly climber's right of the chain (seemed plenty solid BTW - we used it as a backup along with several primary anchors). This flared jam seemed like it might be a little harder than the Beta photo line. Beautiful route with great sticky footholds and sharp face holds appearing when needed and perfect jams up above!
Oct 25, 2017
Fabulous. Heady lead for someone not strong at the grade. First 20 feet coming off the big ledge are best protected with offset cams. It would be tough to safely lead that section without them. After that, the climbing is mostly in cracks and sustained with great gear.
Aug 5, 2017
High gravity day??? I don't know, but I had a tough time with this 5.8. Once you leave the horizontal ledge, the next 20 feet aren't super well protected... flaring a bit. Gear is solid above that, but it's plenty sustained. Great one with really nice exposure. Reminded me of P2 of Over The Hill in Eldo.
Jun 3, 2015
This is a great climb! One of the first 8s I have lead on trad and had no problem. The gear is simple except in a few situations that require a tiny bit of creativity (or courage).
Sep 18, 2012
5.9 variation was lots of fun. Only a couple moves, go for it!
Jun 29, 2012
The eggs have hatched.... Little ones there now. Also, if you left some gear and want it back... Found: Booty at 4th Elephant Buttress.
Jun 18, 2012
Great climb! I would consider this a must do for Boulder and an easy grab after work. The route wanders, so match up your photos or you're in for a headache.
Jun 6, 2012
There is a chain (just one) cemented into the rocks at the top of this route. Since there are cracks in the cement and I can't inspect the attachment anyhow, I wouldn't rap from it. The variations add to some internal debate on which way to go. The answer turned out to be 'up'. Bring lots of slings.
May 10, 2012
This route reminded me why toproping can be SO MUCH FUN. Do two or three laps, trying all the variations!
Apr 29, 2012
It was kinda chilly when I cleaned this route, but the view from the top was totally worth it. Nice to have something with crack and face also the granite is amazing in Boulder (: I love rock climbing.
Apr 4, 2011
This route is fun for sure. Some will disagree, but I don't think I would recommend this for someone just breaking to the 5.8 grade. The first section of the route does not protect great. Most of the cracks are too shallow/flared to get a good downward facing cam into. It is also extremely important to consider rope drag. I ran into some problems when the rope was feeding through a crack below me. This made the final 30' quite difficult. It's an awesome climb, but one that you should definitely take seriously. Doubles in #2, 0.75 were helpful. I think a 0.3 and 0.4 would also be worth having since my standard rack ends at 0.5.
Apr 18, 2010
The water pipe has a hole in it that fountains right next to the start (if you're starting from the ground). Rather than get wet, we moved ~50 right, just left of the corner to a nice ledge. There is some crappy rock for ~20ft off the ground that leads to good, left trending, thin cracks. These cracks go up to a bush, that connects to the route after its traverse. This variation felt like 5.7+ S, the S being for the poor rock at the start, but the moves are enjoyable.
Jun 8, 2009
I disagree with previous comments. This route protects very, very well, particularly once the traverse is completed. The difficult sections can all be sewn up appropriately. I would strongly recommend this route to those breaking into 5.8. The climbing is straightforward, the gear is great, and the rock is pretty steep! Furthermore, the climb is varied and sustained; what else could one ask for?
Jul 11, 2008
The 5.9 variation of this route is sweet! This is definitely one of the best 5.8/5.9 trad routes in Boulder Canyon.
Apr 27, 2008
I think if you're breaking into 5.8, this one will be scary. Gear is sparse and tricky in spots.
Jan 1, 2008
It's also fun to start this route up the left-leaning splitter of Zolar Czakl (also a great climb) just above & right of the step off the pipe. Climb to the overlap/roof of ZC and traverse right across nice flakes, with occasional good gear. Then link into the 5.9 variation of NW face. Cool wall! Don't forget to boulder the tasty 30' 5.7 splitter in the short wall above the 4th Elephant.
Sep 25, 2005
Really fun climb. A couple of notes: pro up to the detached block in the middle of the climb is a little sparse. This could be very scary if you're just breaking into leading 5.7/5.8 trad. Be prepared (guidebooks never seem to prepare you for this stuff). Also, the traverse into the climb (starting at the pipe) is a little sketchy. Do your best to protect the second, as a fall here could result in quite a ride.
Sep 12, 2005
Great route. It doesn't look like much from a distance, but it's really quite interesting, with some excellent jamming near the top.
Aug 5, 2004
A must do in the area for the grade. We started from the ground below the pipe. It's a touch chossy, but it adds a few fun moves that are consistent with the difficulty of the climb.
Jul 19, 2004
Did his today. Great climb on a mild January day. Mental crux (especially for shorter folks) might be the step across from the pipe to get onto the rock. The holds are there but it takes committment. After that enjoy the sustained nature of the climb. Lots of variety with some thought provoking areas. The tunnel was dry as of today and made for an easy return.
Jan 23, 2004
Awesome climb. Red tricam is best for protecting your ass after the traverse which is best left unprotected. Three stars
Aug 4, 2003
Climb this last night after work... AWESOME climb. Started off to just do a quick climb, and think I ended up on the 9 portion..Nice. Definite must do climb! Like others said TCUs and or Aliens are good down low. WATCH your rope drag if you protect the starting traverse and head straight up.. cheers
Jun 19, 2003
Set a good anchor behind the belayer so that a leader fall on the first traverse move won't pull them off the pipe and over the ledge. A small nut high in the crack after the first traverse move will protect the second from a ground fall. A tri-cam works for the start of pitch two. Very satisfying climb!
Jun 3, 2003
A quality, good length pitch that offers positive holds, good stemming and placements.As mentioned above, a few slightly flared cracks down low can be protected with small aliens if you don't own offset cams. Most of the climb is 6 or 7 until above half way where the angle of the route increases. Here a section of hand and foot jams takes you thru what I felt was the 8 crux not too far from the top. Many different variations are possible on this face as cracks are galore. This climb is fun and well worth your time.
Oct 16, 2002
Steep, continuously interesting, varied climbing; one of the best 5.8s in Boulder Canyon. Three stars. Make sure you have Aliens or TCUs to protect the initial vertical section; offset Aliens would work really well here. Watch out for poison ivy on the descent; the worst of it can be avoided by angling left onto rock instead of going straight down toward the tunnel. The tunnel was dry, with one small wet spot, on 8/10/02. A good summer climb since it's in the shade until mid-afternoon.
Aug 10, 2002
This is a fun and challenging route. We TR'd it and had a great time with the various route variations. The TR setup is very straightforward with many blocks on top to set up your anchor system. You will need a 60 meter rope to reach the pipe. The tunnel is dry and provides great access to the east side of the buttresses.
Apr 10, 2002
Did this pitch today, and although I wasn't expecting much, it turned out to be one of the best pitches I've done in Boulder Canyon. Steep, continuous, interesting moves, a good mixture of crack and face, and occasionally thought-provoking pro and route-finding.
Apr 6, 2002
- Scrundle Corner
I climbed this in 2008 with Ben Schneider. I doubt we were the first.
Feb 22, 2015
- Smooth Groove
First climbed this in 2004 with Jordan Wood. I'm sure it's been done long before that too.
Feb 22, 2015
- South Face Roof
This route isn't all that great. There are three fixed pins in the roof which you can use, the blade pin is giant! When you start cleaning, beware of the loose rock(/crap) covering the surface of the roof above - you'll get showered with debris. Above the sloping ledge, over the roof, the rock is 5.4-5.5. I used cams of 0.5 (blue) TCU to 1" Alien. Maybe a few nuts and/or pink tricams for a belay at the ledge (rope drag sucks, otherwise).
May 21, 2002
- Southwest Chimney
- Undocumented Free Roof
- Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle?
I suspect that the lower part of "GG" had been led before the two bolts were installed. Furthermore, the 10b second pitch described in Drew's comment seems to be the upper part of Endgame (FFA: Jim Erickson, solo, 1973). In the route description of "GG" (above), Tony refers to Endgame as an obvious finish. The upper half of the green line in the beta photo is definitely on Endgame. I've led it.
Nov 23, 2014
I think this pitch is 5.11a past the 2 bolts and up through the final roof before easing off. Climb up and right to the nice ledge at the base of the green lichened pillar above.... Climb up the right-leaning, thin hand crack (ENDGAME), and step left up under the roof. A small cam (1/4") protects the exciting face moves on huge jugs (5.9+) to gain the continuing crack above (ENDGAME). The GREEN GARGOYLE start and the ENDGAME finish provides for a beautiful 2 pitches, 5.11a, 5.10b.
May 28, 2012
- Unknown, The
- Zolar Czakl
- Zolar Czakl (Direct)
- Second Buttress
- Avalon Rising
Updating to confirm that the first bolt's hanger is still missing four years later. The bolt is probably still solidyou could probably slide the wire on a stopper onto it and use it, though it's hard to say what kind of wear has occurred deeper in the bolt hole.
Jul 16, 2012
The hanger on the first bolt was missing last night when I was up there. The stud is still protruding and could probably be re-fitted with hardware. The other two bolts looked fine.
Jul 7, 2007
- Chimney
Snakes, yikes! I hate snakes when I'm climbing. That said, I didn't find this one too awkward, it does get tougher as the chimney constricts near the top. Glad to see someone did this route; I thought it was a nice change of pace for Boulder Canyon.
Aug 12, 2008
Led this yesterday. Interesting route that gets harder the higher you go. Found the last 10 feet of the chimney to be very awkward. My second said she saw a snake in the lower portion of the route in the cleft leading up to the main chimney.
Aug 8, 2008
- Classic Finger Crack
It should be called one finger jam crack....
Oct 30, 2016
This was fun!
Dec 31, 2012
Maybe it's been a while since it rained, but the "finger cracks" were so filled up with chalk it made it so slippery I used the tiny face holds.
Oct 4, 2011
Did this years ago and then again today, it's fun if you are in the neighborhood, but it's very short and very little 'finger crack' climbing technique is actually used. #2 Camalot is good for the initial little corner smaller and bigger by one size would work also. Wireds and a #1.5 Friend for the 'finger crack'.
Aug 11, 2010
The climbing is well worth doing if you come down from the top after another climb (we did Northwest Face, which is terrific). The scramble down toward the rap tree and then over to the base of the climb wasn't bad at all (much better than the Ramp at Devil's Tower, just to make one comparison).
Jun 6, 2010
This is a sweet climb. Great gear the entire way combined with a pumpy crux make this a Boulder Canyon must do.
Jan 31, 2009
I did this climb with Larry not too long ago and also I taught a CMC trip on the pine tree route a few weeks back. I asked one of the workers if we were allowed to be here. He said "you guys are climbers" I said "yes" he then said "you're allowed to be here". So, I'm not sure if it's just climbers who are allowed to be there or what, but we also ran into other climbers. After all that chatter, all I can say is that I'm not sure but one of the workers told us it was OK.
Oct 10, 2005
Is this area open now? The sign I saw last week on the orange fencing said closed until 10/23 under penalty of $300 fine for anyone caught climbing in the entire Dome area.
Oct 7, 2005
This is so not worth going out of your way for. I can't imagine who the hell would name it "Classic" Finger Crack. It is a good route for about 15 feet. The most amount of vertical you will gain will be on the scramble up to the crack! The only way this route would be three star is if it got one star for each move.
Nov 1, 2004
Agree with you AC, its a face climb that you use the finger crack to climb! And a #8 stopper placement is bomber up in the middle of the crack, but a black alien placement 2' lower is hard to pass up...this climb is like a 3 move wonder...but ohhhh so good...
Sep 8, 2004
2 cents on the approach scramble: It's really not that bad, if you take your time, and pick out the path of least resistance. If you are concerned, put on your climbing shoes first. Don't be deterred by this alone. To get down, the rappel off the pine tree is also straightforward to get to. Oh, and the climb itself was fun, but was much more of a face climb than a crack climb, i.e. not too many jams.
Sep 6, 2004
I'd like to applaud the sentiment of the previous post. Difficulty is rarely synonymous with danger. The class 4 approach is long and steep and hardly seems worth the risk for a 30 foot pitch. If you want to climb easy stuff without a rope, why bother bringing the gear to do the crack?
Aug 3, 2003
Looking up from the bike path or road, the upper face looks angled enough that you might guess its a romp up the crack, but don't be fooled. Its steep, and might feel harder than 5.9 at the crux on your first attempt. I've done this route 3 times now and it never gets easier, but always stays fun. There is a good hold out left, at the crux, that is easy to overlook, but allows advancement of the left foot high enough to get thru the little bulge in the middle of the face. Lots of foot smearing required, but the rock is excellent. Although the climb is short, I enjoy the sustained nature of the climbing on this route. My favorite climb on the Elephant Buttresses.
Apr 26, 2003
And the Naked Edge can be climbed with nothing but a chalk bag. Knock yourself out, kiddo. But that's really not the point. It just seems more pleasant to rappel than scrambling up with hands-and-feet-needed terrain with "varied ability" partners.
Jul 24, 2002
There is nothing "Spooky" about the approach as it can be done barefoot and in the dark going up and down.
Jul 24, 2002
A good way to access this climb without the spooky class 4 is to climb any one of the fine routes leaving the waterpipe (Monster Women P1 roof to Mojo Rising P2 corner?) that puts you on top of the buttresses. Scramble 'round back and set up an anchor on top of the Second Butrress and rap down to the belay shelf (no cheating!). On a side note, I was thinking as I scaled the immaculate face how in another era (ours) and in another place (sport park) this route would have been bolted to save time fishing stoppers into the small crack at the crux. Leading this clean is an honor and a bolt would certainly detract from the experience. (This tirade is not intended to give the impression that this climb is difficult to protect with gear, on the contrary, and my point) Now that I'm spouting my opinions, I think other climbs I have not done that I could experience on gear (and let me make that distinction clear: runnouts are ok if they fall comfortably below the climb's crux pitch, but boy do I love bolts on rock like the Monestary) would fulfill me more. Just a note to anyone with first assenssionist's fever and a bolt gun.
Jul 8, 2002
Actually, this crack can also be aided on lead AND Top Rope at C1. The anchor at the top can be a double length sling around a horn. Less than vertical slope and easy placements make this an awesome introductory aid climb. I'd recommend doubling up on stoppers 11-13, TCUs (not FCUs) .5 or .75, and maybe a #3 Camalot along w/slings for tiny horns. Be careful though, the top chockstone is hollow as shit so don't spend too much time on it. And finally NO PINS!!
Oct 13, 2001
- Elephantiasis
I replaced the 1/4" Rawl buttonhead compression bolt on the second pitch with a 3/8" SS Rawl 5-piece bolt. The materials for this work were provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
Sep 30, 2005
First pitch is a wonderful ego-boost. Of course, that was since i went into it thinking it was 5.10x. The BC Guide was a little tricky with the description. I should have relied on the trusty-CB.com guide instead! Place bomber green aliens in the crack (which is much bigger than one is led to think from the descriptions) at the lip of the roof, layback to your left, feet high AND in the crack below and turn it. Lots easier than I thought. GREAT gear. If you want to push into the grade, do it here. Clean-ish falls, nice nuts just after the roof, and a REALLY short crux. Fun fun fun. (Don't do the second pitch; do Tough Situation instead). ~Wm
Oct 3, 2004
- Pine Tree Route
Added a quicklink. A loop of tubular webbing on the (weirdly tied) slings indicated someone previously rapped off of the nylon.
Mar 21, 2016
Just for everyone's information: some idiot removed the rap rings on the slings on the tree at the top of the route, which I discovered yesterday (12/9/15). There was a single mini-biner there, so I added a locking biner. It would be nice if someone replaced these with real rap rings again...though it's about time that some rap bolts were put here, and stop abusing the tree.
Dec 10, 2015
Ok, easy route. Climbed this because a thunderstorm was rolling in, and we figured we could climb it quickly. Had a couple fun moves but no more than 5.4 overall. Descended trail between 1st EB and Dome in a pretty good rain-SLICK!
Jun 6, 2015
Phenomenal 5.4. Probably the best first lead for anyone ever, or, as I like to do, mix it into your Boulder Canyon soloing circuit.
Jul 25, 2014
Not a bad route. Maybe a couple moves I would consider harder than 5.5. Currently a very new looking sling around the tree.
Jun 29, 2012
Seems like the one move at the headwall with the hand crack that widens in the back is harder than 5.5, and quite a bit harder if you're short. At 5'11", I was stretching for the bomber hold up and left. Great pro though. I was practicing with hexes, and placed all 3 I had borrowed. One sling, and one thin (aluminum I think) rap ring on the tree, but the walk off up top was easy. Fun route!
Nov 13, 2011
Great route. Pro is abundant, but placements can be tricky since the cracks are pretty irregular. Bigger gear than recommended can be useful-- I easily used both my #3 and #4 BD C4s.
Aug 17, 2011
Multiple slings and a rap ring on this tree as of today.
Oct 3, 2008
I was looking for something casual on the Elephant Buttresses (and something in the shade) and found this one. Pretty straight-forward, with a couple of bulgy moves where height doesn't hurt; my 5'5" wife had a lot of trouble with the first bulge. 10' below the tree, I headed far to the right on an airy, thin ledge which added a nice finish to the route. Still no rap slings, but the walk-off through the tunnel is easy and lots of fun!
Apr 9, 2006
Don't forget the irrigation tunnel if you want a second alternative for an easy walk off, water or no water. If someone needs to bail off of EB, let them leave some gear. Things can get pretty desperate up there when a storm blows in. Anyone could leave some slings if they had to rappel off the tree and found no slings, so it isn't making it more dangerous....
Aug 16, 2005
The walk-off between the Elephant Buttresses and the Dome is casual and not very far. The slings wear away the tree and could/will eventually kill it. There is no reason for a rap station to be there. casey
Aug 16, 2005
As of 8/15/05, someone has removed the rappel anchor (multiple slings and two rap rings) from the tree atop this route. I hope to get back here later this week and replace the anchor. I wonder why someone would do this? Pine Tree Route is a standard rap route; these weren't bail slings. The 4th-class downclimb between the 2nd and 3rd Elephant Buttresses is tricky and exposed; not a pleasant alternative. I wish the people responsible for this would act in the spirit of service to the climbing community instead of making things more difficult and dangerous for others.
Aug 15, 2005
This is a good route-fun! You can reach safe ground, barely, with a 50m rope from the tree.
May 26, 2005
A good choice for a beginner leader though will make the beginner think in places, takes a variety of pro well. The route does end at a Pine Tree with some rappel rings, but perhaps a better choice for belaying your second is to sling the huge flake a few feet behind the tree. (this can also be backed up with pro) this puts you in a more solid position for belaying rather than hanging off the tree.
Jul 27, 2003
Fun climb !!! Good beginner route, plenty of pro and good holds. About 10 feet below the pine tree, there is a choice of two crack systems.... I thought the right-hand option was easier.
May 5, 2003
This is a good warm-up/beginner route since the angle is less than vertical and all the jams/jugs are bomber. I led it with 1 set up to 2.5" and was ok. Unless you follow a straight line here, bring long slings and place judiciously to avoid rope drag hell. Do it in the winter w/a pack for an alpine feel.
Aug 31, 2002
- Tough Situation
Zig-zag fingertips crack on the face around corner is definitely worth doing, perfect way to round up this little gem.
Oct 30, 2016
I liked this route but would note that it's probably a little more difficult for those with big fingers. There were several moves I had to complete without getting more than my tips in the crack. I'd call it 10b in this circumstance. It's worth noting as well this route protects ridiculously well with 0.4-0.75 cams and offset nuts.
Mar 29, 2016
For a three star variation at possibly 5.10a/b, step out onto the face to your right after finishing the finger crack section in the dihedral above the initial roof, and follow the challenging and awesome zig zag finger/tips crack to the shared finish with Classic Finger Crack.
May 22, 2014
For what it's worth, I thought this was harder than Cosmosis just up the road. I think Cosmosis is overall a better climb than this, but this route certainly had a harder crux move over the roof into some more sustained climbing. All in all, this is a great route and protects so nicely.
Nov 20, 2012
Great route, would be 3 stars if longer. Easier than the other old school 9+'s and 10a I've done in BoCan this spring, so 5.9.
Jun 2, 2012
The big rock on the shelf at the top was slightly wobbly yesterday. I wouldn't pull too hard on it as you top out. There is only a small, maybe loose wedge at its base. Fun short but sustained climb, slippery jams at the roof.
Apr 26, 2012
FYI: The Bob D'Antonio book for Boulder Canyon has this route marked incorrectly on the beta photo.
Oct 24, 2011
Very nice route (but short). I agree that it is more powerful than Classic Finger Crack, but the feet are much better.
Aug 31, 2010
There's great gear throughout this stellar (although short) pitch. don't let Chris's "ankle shots" referred to in the comments scare you off this beauty. (If you're looking for those pics, by the way, they were removed a while back).
Jul 24, 2009
Approached via a finger crack roof directly below and left of TS. Prolly went at 5.9. Does anyone know if this is a route? Very lichen covered, but super fun moves up an unprotected slab, then after the roof, the finger crack continues almost all the way up to the base of TS. I will probably always use this route from here on out to get up there.
Jun 16, 2008
Nothing like seeing two of your coworkers you have never seen climb before solo this before attempting an onsight, it got me fired up though for the send! Easiest way to approach is def the 4th class from the water pipe, my wife leads 6 trad and had no problem soloing to access this route, it only takes a few minutes and WELL worth it, my vote for best route in area.
Oct 6, 2006
Took me a few trips to send this one, I thought this went at 5.9+ at the crux. I also thought the climbing was sustained 5.8+/5.9- up the rest of the crack. The rests seemed thin and for me; it was an endurance race to see if I could make the top without burning out. But, I was probably placing too many pieces as I was nervous after seeing that guys ankles, ouch! That said, great climb, but it's not over after the crux!
May 17, 2006
This is a short route with great moves. My partner and I both enjoyed this route more than Classic Finger Crack to the right. I felt this climb was definitely harder than 9+, but I'm also 5'4". I found the easiest way to reach the base of the climb from the top of the second buttress is to downclimb easy terrain to the rappel tree between the second and third buttress. Then, traverse west and down to the gully that can be used in the approach from the water pipe. Continue up this gully to the base of the climb.
May 9, 2006
I led this climb yesterday. AFTERWARDS, I looked at cb.com and saw that godawful picture of the poor guy's broken ankles. Ouch! Sorry that happened. But, for those who want to lead this climb, don't let that scare you off. The pro's a little weird below the roof, but you can sew up this climb if you want to (which you can see that I did in the pictures below). It's a short climb, but it keeps your attention for almost the entire pitch.
Nov 12, 2005
That's one ghastly pic Chris.
Nov 11, 2005
Damn...this is a good one...anyone debating the + at the end of 5.9 is smoking somethin' better than what I got. Pretty hard move.
Jul 31, 2003
After TRing this a few times over the years, finally sent this on lead the other day. Its often wet and slippery in the crack under the roof. Get a solid left hand hold high in the vertical crack underneath, then reach up and lock the right hand into the crack at the outside edge of the roof while stemming out on the face with the right foot. Then crank over moving the right foot higher onto a good ledge and left onto the roof top. This move can be a tough situation for shorter folks with thinner hands. Fun (7)ish crack climbing above this unless you move out onto the arete or hook it up with CFC to the right which is harder. Sews up well with 1" & 2" cams.
Jun 22, 2003
This climb is really just a one (grunt) move wonder. Put one hand in the perfect jam, stem up and you are over the roof. 5.9 tops. The rest of the climb is nice, but much easier. I thought Classic Finger Crack (originally rated 5.8) was more technical and harder because the stances for placing pro seemed more tenuous.
Aug 21, 2002
From a ledge half way up this beauty, one can make an airy step around right and gain a beautiful thin crack that joins the last moves of the Classic Finger Crack. Interesting moves, bomber blue Alien. I love this little cliff!
Jul 23, 2002
The initial roof is hand jam heaven (9? 10? Depends on your technique and the number of climbers who have gone before you) and above, finger fun. A quality route that really needs a 100 foot extention...
Jul 8, 2002
Careful footwork and good jams in the roof make this route no harder than 5.9. Taller folks and those who can do the splits will find this route easier.
Dec 31, 2001
I found this a nice hard 5.9, taking great pro and offering fun moves all through the lower two thirds. Throw a nice nut in the roof at the bottom, head out, and enjoy the awkward start. I suggest taking lots of friends to see how many different ways the roof can be overcome!
Oct 20, 2001
An excellent line. The feet really are not as good as they may appear from below. I think this route is about mid 5.10 perhaps a/b. Also a better approach than coming up the gully is just as the second buttress starts you will see crack going over a little bulge, layback this crack (a little dirty on feet) and approach the base of the route via a flake that runs just left of an arete and then up a slab. I give this line 2 stars and the Tough Situation 3 stars.
Sep 20, 2001
- Third Buttress
- Ah Maw
On June 3, 2010, Michele Beaty and I did what might be either a new route or a combination of routes to the top of the 4th Elephant Buttress. We began climbing 15 feet to the right of the start for Monster Woman. It was unprotected but moderate in difficulty up a right-facing dihedral, and I could place a good cam. A bit further I clipped an old 3/4 angle piton with a broken eye. From here, I went straight up through corners and discontinuous cracks and flakes until I got to a spot where I had to make a few balancy moves (the crux at 5.10b?) left and up to a finger crack. The remainder of the pitch was easy and finished just below the top. Walk off right to the top of the gully. We grade this at probably 5.10b, 110 feet. A standard rack up to a #3 Camalot and a rack of nuts with a few long runners suffices to protect this route.
Jun 4, 2010
- FM
2 pins and 2 fixed stoppers currently on this route. The 2nd pin is somewhat dubious, easily backed up with a 1" cam. Bizarre, unique, awkward, powerful, wonderful climbing. For what it's worth, I stayed in the right dihedral of the double dihedral system. I didn't really find it necessary to step into the left dihedral system save for the very last move onto the good stance before the 5.9 climbing to the top. Perhaps a little hard for 11c?
Nov 4, 2016
We TR'ed this with a gear anchor at the very top of the cliff and a 70m rope. We belayed on a ledge right below the first crux. It felt ok without an anchor for the belay; however, there is still another 25' or so to the ground, so be careful. Tie knots in your rope rappelling, and add some directionals up until just past the crux. Fantastic climbing, but seeping wet a couple days after a big snowstorm.
Apr 20, 2016
A brilliant climb with some unusual movement! The crux is steep and strenuous, placing the pro is half the battle! If you have successfully reached the ramp above the crux corners and you are still wanting for some more then try this extension - work up and left around some huge detached blocks until you can step out left above the big roof, find a bolt runner and some cool face climbing (5.10+) which leads up an exposed headwall, follow finger and hand cracks to the top.
Jul 19, 2014
No more fixed nuts. Two good pins.
Jul 26, 2013
Fantastic climb. There are 2 fixed nuts and 2 pins left on the route as of today.
Aug 13, 2011
This route is GREAT! I got shit on March 11' trying this route and had to bail at the crux. I returned today and got it with one hang at the top of the "first pitch"/at the base of the crux dihedral. Do this route if you are able. The gear is really good the whole way and the climbing is so much fun, finger locks galore. Gear Beta: have a 0.4 camalot pre-drawn for the heart of the crux, you will be stoked.
Aug 5, 2011
FM means Frequency Modulation. Makes sense to me.
Mar 12, 2007
Hands down 4 STARS! This is an incredible route that eats great pro all the way up. Although, some is quite strenuous to place. Hats off to Briggs for this gem.
Sep 3, 2006
I remember clipping a number of fixed nuts and pitons on this climb a few weeks ago, but there are only the piton below the crux and another fixed nut higher up on the crux now. A green Alien will protect the traverse crux well.
Aug 30, 2006
I went up to FM today with a hammer, chisel, and a selection of pitons with the hopes of clearing away and replacing the piton that broke on me a few weeks ago. As soon as I got a good look at remainder of the pin, I realized there was no hope in replacing it. The pin broke off well inside the crack and reaching it was near impossible, so the hammer and chisel were never put to use. I did notice a good stopper placement a few inches above the pin and a very good cam placement above that, so the route is still well protected through the crux, you'll just have to work a little more for it.
Aug 26, 2006
Oh my gosh, you mean that that fixed stopper that was there back in '82 is still there? Wow!
Apr 4, 2006
FM is one of the BEST one pitch trad routes I have climbed. The rock quality and movement are exceptional!! In addition to the pitons, there are two fixed stoppers in the extended "old school" 5.11 crux section.
May 30, 2005
I got out in a really wide stem and was able to switch my hands into the dihedral with no problem. This made getting into the fingerlocks pretty easy, meaning the crux for me was the steeper climbing below. I have really long legs however, so this might not be feasible for everyone.
Mar 11, 2002
There is a bizarre sequence to the crux where I climbed a full rotation. Anyone else do that, too? Addendum: Anyone know why it's called FM?
Mar 7, 2002
This route is called FM. Probably the best line on the Elephant Buttresses.
Nov 5, 2001
- Feathers
- Frequency Modulation
This route is already covered on this site and has been for 15 years right here: mountainproject.com/v/fm/10… Perhaps merge this entry as a comment.
Oct 9, 2015
- Left Wing
A fairly bold lead on really cool features with some questionable flakes. There is good gear to be had, but it is not always where you want it. Climb this in the shade. I almost greased off a few times in the hot sun! We built a small anchor on the ledge with the two smallest offset Mastercams, placed two offset DMM nuts early in the corner, a yellow-blue offset Mastercam with a long sling above that, clipped the bolt (although some small nuts or RPs could protect the moves adequately), placed a C4 0.5 next to the stuck Friend (although yellow-orange offset Mastercam would have been easier to clean and even more bomber), and then got a #2 and #1 C4 in the undercling traverse. Make sure you take a good look at the gear in the undercling traverse. The crack is quite flared with some more parallel spots. Gear will rip from flared placements, and you will traverse a ways to the left and up on nontrivial climbing before you can get more good gear in. Felt like solid (hard) 10+ in the hot sun. Would probably feel much easier in the shade. My partner had to hang to clean the 0.5 C4.... I recommend a yellow-orange or yellow-blue offset Mastercam in its place.
Jul 15, 2016
Fair amount of poor quality rock as well as several ledges detract from the classic status. Good rests though throughout if you can relax. The gear on the final traverse is trickier than it looks. It is easy to stuff a piece up into the crack such that it won't fall out when you let go of it, but placing a piece that would actually hold a fall is a different story. Take your time to place good gear here.
Aug 29, 2011
So, sometime this summer, after climbing Left Wing a handful of times, I decided to replace the old green single piece of one-inch webbing with a rusty link at the top of climb with two new pieces of red one-inch webbing tied with water knots with 4" tails equipped with two links.... So, I was up there this weekend, and it looks like someone has cut out that anchor without replacing it, (not that it needed it at all).... This makes it really fun to get off this climb, even though fun is what climbing is all about, that is why they make webbing for anchors....
Nov 9, 2010
Man, what a great route! I went out the Elephant Butt to do it a few times over the past couple months, but it was always wet! It was finally dry this morning, and I jumped on it. What a treat in Boulder's backyard. I think move for move this is easier than Wingtip, but the distance you have to climb before finding a good rest makes them similar in grades. Very, very strenuous. Take a single rack of BD up to #2 and some smaller stuff, and you'll be fine. I placed a green C3 before the second crux layback up high in the crack above your head (not the one you are liebacking) and basically got a toprope. And what is up with that bolt? There's a perfectly good nut above it and a bomber 0.5 by the fixed Friend two feet above that nut.
Aug 26, 2010
I'm pretty sure the bolt has been there for at least 20 years.
Sep 22, 2008
I did this very fun route again a few days ago, after a decade-and-a-half hiatus. What's up with the "new bolt that protects a few feet below the roof and the first crux"? Don't want to start a bolting spewfest, but I don't think this bolt was here in the old days, and I didn't see any reason to clip it; the protection in the crack is fine. It's not that I was in some heroic run-it-out mood; that bolt just isn't particularly well placed. A useless retro-bolt on a historic route, or am I missing something?
Aug 4, 2008
Take the #2, leave the doubles.
Jun 16, 2008
Really great climb! I placed mostly nuts and small TCUs (one blue and one yellow). I don't think anything bigger than a #0.5 BD cam is necessary unless you protect by the fixed piece. Also you can find some rests by jamming up and then using that position to place gear. Definitely worth doing.
Jun 10, 2008
Pretty sustained pitch. Off the belay ledge 5.8 face move lead to another stance below the crux which really zapped me of arm strength for the rest of the pitch. Good gear under the roof lead to a series of underclings to the flake, which is scary feeling. As mentioned above, the jugs at the top of the flake are a relief, but don't really provide much of a rest stop. Place a #1 Camalot in the undercling and jet through to the corner. I fell from this point, as I was totally blown out. The rest is cake. Really good route.
Jul 5, 2007
Cool route with varied and interesting climbing. You can place solid pro from good stances but expect some pretty run-out climbing in between. Great after work climb.
Sep 2, 2005
What a great route! I happened to choose one of the hottest, most humid days of the summer to get on it, which added a little excitement, but still didn't find it to be greasy (as mentioned above). This is one of the best 5.10+ trad lines in the canyon IMHO. The fixed friend near the first crux no longer has a sling to clip, so plan on placing a red Alien or equivalent next to it. I think the red Alien / 0.5 Camalot is the only size that I placed more than one of (possibly 2 0.75 Camalots).
Jul 16, 2005
I'll give it 3 stars so the average increases a little--easily 2.5 stars in my book. To follow on Jay's comment, I think a key for this route is not stopping to place gear from those bad stances. You only need the fixed piece at the first crux, a couple pieces in between before the traverse--then go. And oh BTW, Quinn really is a sport climber so his rack advice up to only #1 Friend is a little skimpy--you can place several pieces in the 2-2.5 range.
May 4, 2004
This is a tough route both physically and mentally. After I pulled the 10c crux, I wanted a piece real bad before I did more laybacking to the jug...but you are in this really strenuous laybacking position and it is very hard to place pro--it took everything I had to place a "textbook" red Alien at my waist, but the friggin' rock was so greasy that when I gave her a tug she just slipped right out. This ended any thoughts of a clean ascent (although good gear is available)! QS or GB, do y'all just run it out past the crux to the jug to place gear?? Quite a whip if your foot popped! The second crux is short and powerful, there is a big foot out left that saves you, and a no hands rest afterwards.
Sep 19, 2003
As Quinn mentions, there is a juggy ledge, and it looks like it should be a pretty good rest. However, the wall overhangs above this ledge, and it can be hard to get off the arms.
Aug 15, 2001
GB is right on in his comment about rests. Even though you get a juggy ledge before the second crux, the time you spend placing gear and looking at the undercling saps you. At the ledge, I put my left arm across the hold and as I remember it, I did an inverted (?) right foot knee drop in the vertical crack just below. Inverted meaning drop your knee as if you were sitting indian style, not the more common knee drop. Hug into the rock and the rest is great! Oftentimes sport climbing style makes trad climbing far more difficult than necessary (ie., doing 5.12 face moves next to a 5.8 crack). It's nice when the two styles reinforce each other.
Aug 15, 2001
This is my favorite route on the Elephant Buttresses and I probably have done it at least 4 times. Finding reasonable rests is key as the route will pump you out fast. I always struggle trying to rest before the second crux (undercling left).
Aug 15, 2001
A very worthwhile route. I found that a #2 Camalot protects the "sporty" undercling well. There is a good flake where you can place the cam and milk a rest before launching up and left through the undercling section.
Aug 15, 2001
- Mojo Rising
Too greasy and disjointed for 3 stars but worth an after work climb for the two very fun and distinct crux sections.
Jun 18, 2015
I've done Standard Route a bunch of times over the years, but I never did this one. It's my new favorite pitch on the Elephant Buttresses! I didn't need any gear bigger than a #1 Camalot except for my anchor up top.... Hard to imagine that this went unclimbed until '91?? Especially with the old rusty pins and rusty old chopped bolt.
Jun 22, 2011
A biner fits fine in the piton. It looks like a new one has been driven in....
Jun 4, 2010
An excellent pitch with climbing that is more sustained than the normal Standard Route. The pin is driven such that a biner will not fit, but it is easy to thread it with a sling. Many fun and interesting moves along the way. 3 star pitch in my opinion.
Oct 15, 2009
This thing is a walk in the park- Central park- at 2 am.
Oct 4, 2007
I almost forgot, first of all leftern is not a word. You go left after the pin, under the left roof, around the bulge that fills the space between the two routes to meet variation (what is called mojo rising here). Climb on!
Jul 24, 2002
You have actually given the description for a route that Rossiter has called "Variation." To do Mojo Rising as Rossiter described climb up the same shallow dihedral after the belay on P1, clip the pin, but instead of climbing right and out through the roofs you must climb left, traversing slimy jams underneath the leftern roof and then up and around to meet with Variation at the .8 section 10-20 feet from the top. Joyful climbing!
Jul 22, 2002
- Monster Woman
First ascent by Stan Badgett and Frank Prescott in 1966 or 1967. At the time we thought it was 5.8. It went straight up the obvious line from bottom to top.
Apr 19, 2010
The route has 3 distinct crux sections. I found the roof to be enjoyable, but the second crux I had to down-climb and try again! The third crux has some nice jamming to a layback. This is a nice route with varied climbing.
Nov 8, 2007
Definitely not 5.9; definitely an awesome route and a delightful lead. Never did get the secret jug--didn't know it was there. Unfortunately, the climb is more or less a "one move wonder" --once past the roof, the rest of the climb isn't nearly as challenging.
Sep 17, 2007
This is a really fun, short route with lots of possibilities. Knowing the sequence really helps - I'm a very average climber and free solo it with no sweat - no way it's 5.9. On the opening overhang traverse, one can either hang there forever wearing out your arms, or stem high with your feet, make one small positioning move so you can reach the sharp undercling/horn on your left, match it right hand while your feet aren't doing anything, then reach high left around the corner for the secret jug. Once your fingers touch that, it's done. Above that are three worthwhile possibilities. 1) The route described traverses low on that overhang/wall to the right past that pin, before reaching up for another pull-up bar; easier than it looks. 2) Best option however is straight up, which means surmonting awkward blocks with big holds that don't seem to be at the optimal angle, thus providing a rather enjoyable thrash, as you think, "Dang, I don't seem to be doing this right". But the holds are big and the cams are at your face. 3) If you go to the left side of this same overhang/wall, there's a sketchy but interesting balance/friction move surmonting a smoothish ramp. Above this wall there actually are even more options, to either 4th class to top or continue encountering some nice 5th class lips.
Jun 14, 2007
Actually, this route does not necessarily link up with Standard Route. It links up with Variation, according to Rossiter. Start the second pitch as you would Variation, but rather than moving right to the face, move left and follow the left leaning dihedral. These are consistently 5.8.
Apr 28, 2007
Led this today thinking I was climbing The Standard route. Discovered this route links up with that one on P2 according to Rossiter. The roof on P1 goes at 8+ and can be turned any number of ways. Step way left, undercling the horn at the corner, then reach high with the left hand, worked for me. I've seen others avoid the high seem at the corner of the roof and move up the lip of the slab to the left, much harder. P2 crux is a fun corner, albeit short, with good stems, then easy climbing to the top. Fun route!
May 8, 2003
What's the best way to reach the left hand jug on the crux? I matched on a left-facing horizontal knob. Hard on the wrist! -- Clare Shemeta
May 5, 2002
- No Mo' Jo'
- Standard Left Start
- Standard Route
Really an enjoyable route, could always find gear whenever you wanted, get your feet high up on good holds for the second crux roof and reach for decent holds up high. Cruise city.
Nov 17, 2017
Wow, this was a total blast! I've actually done this route 3-4 times and the crux 6-8 times (via either Std Route or Monster Woman) but all were 25-30 years ago, and while I remembered the general appearance of the overhanging section, I'd completely forgotten the specifics of the moves. Before we went up this, I watched a guy go halfway up and then back off to the right to easier rock. I think his mistake was trying to go up about 3 feet too far to the left, rather than looking for the obvious footholds. It's a little tricky, but the protection is bomb proof and with a little time and awareness, I was able to get up it without much difficulty or strength involved. 5.7+ seems right, maybe 8-. Without giving it away, I'll just say it's all in the foot placement, but I didn't have to stem very wide, (certainly nowhere near as wide as that one photo) which is good since my right hip is pretty arthritic and doesn't take well to that kind of thing. I did The Owl last week and thought that was much harder, both the jam crack on P1 (which I thought was the crux) and the stem on the P2 roof, which was way wider for me. For the record, I'm 5'9"., but back to the Std Rte: great rock, steep and exposed...I also enjoyed the first pitch. 3 stars for sure!
Oct 18, 2017
At 6'4" I thought this route was difficult at the crux. Maybe I am too tall or just suck at stemming. I stayed left of the fixed pin. I would say it's harder than 5.7 but a really fun route though.
Aug 16, 2016
I climbed this two days ago, and it was wonderful. Unfortunately, we were running out of light and got a cam stuck 20 feet from the summit...so we had to leave it. My friend went back the next day to retrieve it, and it was gone. If you found it, please contact me, so I can get it back. Thank you. Climberboy228@gmail.com
Jul 16, 2016
Yesterday morning I on-sight soloed this route. After warming up on East Slab, I hiked down and approached the Elephant Buttress. Balancing my way down the pipe, I found myself at what I assumed to be the beginning. I booted up and entered the relatively dicey movement into and over the small, initial roof. Once up the thin, fun crack and over the second small roof, I was let loose onto the slab that coincided the crux roof. My first attempt of the roof was thwarted by the lack of vision. My confidence waned under the unknown. I returned to the slab to gather motivation and visualize, despite the assumption I would eventually have to back down. I decided to, at the very least, try the exposed, overhang (topped with a ledge) to right of the route. I hoped it would be a simple powerful move to crank over into freedom. Yet after hand traversing over the void, I found no graceful, safe solution. I quickly traversed back onto the route and de-pumped. In the process of retreating, I had this feeling of an unexplainable pull towards and up the crux. I found the stem. I saw the sequence. I told myself not to fall and to stay on, while I cautiously discovered the way. The rest of the climb went smoothly and was great fun. I believe the only reason I stood on the summit is because I truly imagined myself there and nowhere else. One's mind is everything.
Feb 6, 2013
Best if done as one pitch. There is no reason to take the time to set up a belay.
Sep 1, 2012
Instead of starting the climb from the left of the small roof, we started from just to the right of the pipe cable and small roof, standing just between the water pipe and the rock. Then traverse left immediately after getting onto the rock.
Jul 21, 2012
Good climb. Crux at start of p2 is great, but rest of climb is a bit dull. Spice it up by climbing off immediately to the left of the V-ramp that starts p1 - 5.7G as opposed to 5.5 or 5.6. Both pitches have excellent pro across the range to 3". The slightly slabby face at the very end looks wicked fun but clearly run out, so I'm scared -- probably 5.9?
May 10, 2012
Yeah, my partner led and belayed just above the crux which was helpful because it was tough! Also went to the right of the roof instead...still hard though.
Oct 4, 2011
Great climb -- but I think the difficulty is height dependent. Not too bad for me (5'10"), but very challenging for my wife (5'2") trying to stem up under the "roof" at the pitch two crux. Also, the river noise was very loud with the high water -- very tough (okay, impossible) to communicate from belay station on top to climber at the crux on the 2nd pitch. Nevertheless, a great climb!
Jul 16, 2011
I found CFK to be a lot harder. The bulge on the "2nd pitch" is tricky until you do it a couple of times, then it is mellow yellow.
Apr 4, 2011
Wow, 5.7+? I found this harder than either Classic Finger Crack (5.9) or Zolar Czakl (5.9+) today. And I am tall and was on a top rope!
Aug 22, 2010
I think I got off route... at the old, beat up fixed pin on the second pitch, I went right on a couple of jugs. What was this, if anything?
Sep 14, 2009
It can be kinda hard to find the start of this route because there are a lot of really fun looking lines along the pipe. Look on the left for a long chain bolted from the rock at eye level and slightly left and then another large bolt directly on the route. Did this yestarday and it was definitely a lot of fun although I'll admit the crux was somewhat intimidating.
Mar 4, 2009
We forgot to bring the nut tool today, and I couldn't clean a #7 BD stopper from a horizontal crack on P2. It'll probably come out pretty easy with a tool. Fun climb.
Oct 20, 2007
It sounds as if Matt Chan did what I did today - that is did the first pitch of Standard Route and then linked this up with the second pitch of Monster Woman. I don't know if it merits it, but I have put this route up as Standard Variation as I am sure that many people have done what both Matt and I have done. It is a nice line, but more consistently 5.8.
Apr 28, 2007
Hopped on Standard Route today. It was quite windy but had some sunshine, too. The crux sure seemed like 5.8 or 8+ to me today...maybe it's just getting back into the swing of things after long winters nap?! Snow is all melted off at the water pipe thanks to the warm weather.
Mar 8, 2007
My first climb in Boulder Canyon. What a great way to get on some rock after work on a Friday. Cold and drizzle, or not, it was still lots of fun.
Sep 26, 2006
Fun route. I am 6' even, and found the crux to be full of secure stems that made placing pro easy. It is easy to protect the crux with as much pro as you feel like putting in. Definitely able to do the route in one pitch with one 60 m rope.
Sep 11, 2006
That profound stem on the second pitch, as demonstrated by the photo of Phil Broscovak, is a little rough if you are around 5'6" or so. There are a few decent face holds off to the left that can help the height-challenged climber shimmy up this section.
Aug 7, 2006
I felt the crux of the first pitch was less secure and more dangerous than the roof crux on the second pitch. Wide stemming on the roof keeps this climb feeling like 5.7. I'd give it 2.5 stars, but I rounded up.-s
Jun 8, 2005
That pipe at the bottom is really leaky. Got my shoes and rope all wet before I even started. [Definitely] get geared up in the flat area to the left below the descent gully. Also, I got my rope caught on a [piece] of cable hanging out of the pipe when pulling the rope up at the top of the second pitch. This led to me free soloing to the top, walking down, unsnagging the rope at the bottom, climbing back to the top, down climbing back to my anchor, and continuing the climb. Is there a better way to handle this situation or avoid it all together? I need a giant hook to stack my rope when I pull it up or something. Maybe a number 6 Camalot would do the trick.. That being said, I really like taking the cave back to the packs. Even when it's full of water. The down climb in the gully seemed a bit scary, almost rappel worthy (or did I miss the rap anchor as well?)
Jun 2, 2005
The crux on the second pitch is definitely easier for taller people. I lead this route with no difficulty (I'm 6'0"), but my partner on a recent trip (5'3") really struggled, and she leads at a higher grade than I do. As with any roof-ish crux, the key is getting your feet high, but to do that, you must stem wide, and I find myself doing pretty acrobatic splits at this crux.
Mar 16, 2005
AC of 6/12/04 - it's just you. The crux alone is at least two number grades harder than anything on the East Slab. That said, the Standard Route is very well protected throughout and is mucho fun! Without any topo we mistakenly traversed left under the second (after crux) roof and up a left facing corner with a crease to the top - felt consistant with the 7 grade.
Aug 16, 2004
I don't feel sandbagged at all on this and, in fact, find it only half a grade harder than east slab of Dome across the way and even then only at the crux. But I do it a little to the right of the white line after the crux. Try this and then east slab of dome. If you can send it then maybe the ratings are correct. (After all, it could be just me!)
Jun 12, 2004
Take the + in this 5.7 rating seriously. While the crux isn't too tough to pass with lots of stemming, it is pretty steep and stout for a 7.
Aug 11, 2003
We did this route this a.m. and went right (15 feet or so ) of the stemming crux out on to an slighty overhanging face with some big vertical cracks and two old fixed pins. Kinda hard but well protected.Is this part of another route?
Aug 10, 2003
I have taken relatively inexperienced climbers on this route and think it's the best climb of its difficulty near Boulder for this kind of outing. Great rock, tricky crux, easy access, nice views, and summer shade.
Aug 3, 2003
The action photo below states the climber is on the P1 belay of Standard Route. This is incorrect, he is actually belaying from the top of P1 on the West Face variation route, which is down to the south of the Standard route on the 3rd Buttress.
May 11, 2003
Done yesterday after work. Great climb on cool days as the sun keeps you warm. Wonderful lead as the crux (start of the second pitch) protects well. It looks much more intimidating than it really is. Stem and work your feet up until you find enough to grab and go. Actually, for some odd reason, I tend to struggle mentally more on the start of the first pitch. Maybe this is harder given a fall would be a bit dangerous. It just seems a little bulgy and requires trusting the feet with only a small finger hold/crack with the left hand and slopers for the right hand. I agree with Ron and I always go through the tunnel even yesterday when the water was six inches above my knees. Its actually is good therapy after your feet have been in hot climbing shoes. My favorite 5.7 route in Boulder!
Apr 10, 2003
Morning shade makes this a good climb for a hot day. Doing the climb in two pitches facilitates communication if you've got a less-experienced partner. If the drainage ditch is dry, the quickest descent goes down the backside and angles right to the tunnel between the 3rd and 4th buttresses. Watch out for poison ivy. Grope your way through the cool depths of the tunnel (dry with one wet spot on 8/10/02) and walk the pipe back to the start.
Aug 10, 2002
I wasn't aware that people do this in two pitches. The route was pointed out to me from the road and it goes quite naturally in a single pitch with a 50 m rope. Yes, use long slings in the appropriate places, but as a trad leader you already know that, right? Breaking it up seems somewhat pointless.
Jun 17, 2002
Did this route on Feb 16 2001 2 days after a snow storm. There was still some snow/ice in the bottoms of the cracks at the begginning which made the already scarybeginning trickier, but it was still doable. I'd recommend parties wait until the sun has definitely cleared it off. Also, Rossiter's guide recommends a belay at the top of the initial ramp which is pretty mis-matched. I think a better spot is to belay after the middle "funky" roof section where there is a sloping flaring crack at your feet and a hand crack that shoots directly left. That breaks the pitches up nicely. If you used long runners in appropriate places you could link it all into one pitch. It's definitely fun, though.
Feb 16, 2002
I did this in Oct. of 99 with my Italian friend Matteo, and the rock was so cold I couldn't feel my fingers and hands--good thing I let him lead it. ;-) The crux was pretty tricky for a 5.7, just as the final Cozyhang/Owl roof is. This is number 1 in the picture.
Jan 1, 2001
Rick - Climbed with friend Chris on 5/18/01. Chris led P1 and I led P2. Good pro everywhere, but crux is kind of funky. I just reached high, smeared, and willed myself over.
Jan 1, 2001
- Standard Variation
not as pretty but funner than the original imo
Jul 8, 2009
- West Face (variation)
We did the tunnel twice yesterday. I highly recommend this when there is water in it. You have to stow your gear above your waist and roll up your shorts. The water was very refreshing, and I don't think (?) it can get much higher than right under the crotch. If your shoes are tight, it's a treat squishing through the nice cool muck for a couple of minutes.
Aug 18, 2003
I know all that, (did the dry route twice last week)...But you gotta try it when full, at least once - it's actually quite a trip!
Aug 30, 2002
Not only is it bone dry most of the year, but it's also pretty damn easy just to walk around the elephant buttress or down the gully just NW of the stone, lol. But I DO have you guys to thank for the photo and the imagery of people actually attempting to chunnel through whilst it's filled with water. Next time perhaps you guys will try a more practical route?
Aug 30, 2002
The spelunking return was recommended by a friend, and we too suffered through the dark, cold, wet slot. I immediately contacted the friend, and asked her how she could recommend such a horrible hole where I had to bend down so much half my rack was dragging through the water. Turns out she had never done it when there was water in the aqueduct. I don't know the schedule, but at least half the year it is bone dry.
Aug 7, 2002
A worthy variation to this variation is to work out onto the slab left of the normal start (with thin pro) and follow the cracks aiming for the left side of the roof, passing two pitons en route. Traversing back right under the roof is a gas. For your return to your pack on the aqueduct, a wade through the tunnel between Buttress III and IV, without a headlamp (in the pitch black), barefoot, and up to your waist in water is a character building treat not to be missed.
Jul 23, 2002
- What's Up?
Hardest 5.10 in the Universe and one of the best in Boulder Canyon! There is a large, detached flake in the lower corner which should be treated with care. Avoid clipping the bolt on Left Wing, it will just mess you up. Really wild monkey moves around the first big roof followed by bizarre and insecure opposition moves, stemming and chimneying at the second overhang, the cruxes are steep and in your face!
Jul 19, 2014
The rusty knifeblade is sheared off now, but you can get a couple of good RPs. Make sure they are good, because this is one of the hardest 5.9s in the canyon....
Mar 12, 2007
I had no trouble on P1 and there are a few fixed pieces which makes things easier. The roof is challenging but the hands are pretty good and it can be protected well with a nut slid in at the very top of the roof. It's one of those nut placements in which the size doesn't really matter. I think the crux was in the "chimney" which is right above the roof. I call it a chimney because my partner named it such and I also had to use my hip in it. It's more like an awkward dihedral. My partner told horror stories about it so we TR'd this part. It's awkward getting in and you have to use your hip, but then I got two good crimpers on each side of the dihedral and did a pullup with dangling feet until I got high enough to get my feet stemmed. This seems to be the crux. I don't know that I would have done this same move on lead.
Jul 7, 2005
Yes, what's up with the "5.9" second pitch? For the second time I followed the roof clean and then backed off the second pitch after flailing. P2 feels like 11a/b to me.
Sep 19, 2004
Both my partner and I (as well as other people I've talked to) didn't feel the 10+ undercling lieback was the crux. We felt that the section getting though the slot in the roof above was the crux. Unbelievably, Rossiter's topo calls this part 5.9! There is a rusty knifeblade protecting this section, then gear becomes marginal and difficult to place for the hardest, most insecure moves. Even the section after the slot/roof was sustained and difficult ("5.8" in Rossiter), although MAYBE you could attribute that to ropedrag. Awesome route!
Aug 26, 2004
The crux is very protectable and if I had to do all over again at the crux (little roof) I would clip the old piton in the middle of the roof and have a medium size nut and draw ready to slot in the seam of the jug that is on the lip of the roof/bulge and plan to place it quickly and then step high with a right foot onto the arete and with your right arm on the jug lift your left arm to a higher jug just below a old but usable piton and then move your right hand up to another solid hand hold just above your left hand shifting your weight our right onto your right foot (clip the piton and step up for a rest the next section is 5.9 - good luck (efficient gear placement and no hestitation will get the typical 5.10 trad leader through) solid 5.11 climbers will not need to read this - have fun...
Jan 2, 2003
- Wingtip
Climbed this today and did not have a #6 BD like Tommy recommended. It would have been nice to have right off the deck!
May 8, 2012
Every bit of PG-13 on this one. You have to commit to the route before you get gear, and even then you have to fight to get really good gear for it.
Aug 29, 2011
This is a fun route with good liebacking. It is a bit thin off the start but a #6 BD and a blue TCU will keep you from having a bad day. Aside from that, I would take gear to green Camalot possible a red Camalot, but I didn't use it.
Aug 5, 2011
It is short and sustained. Not worth going out of your way for, but if you are craging around elephant butterss it worth doing. You can protect it with small cams and small nuts.
Nov 1, 2004
- Topknot
- Grand Jam
One of 4 lines there in all. No better or worse than the others. If you were to stack them all end-to-end, then you'd have a pitch of climbing.
May 8, 2008
Pretty good route. This looks like the hardest line, but is cruiser with good gear.
Apr 18, 2008
- Grand Jam Left
A couple of those flakes up top seemed pretty loose to me. I'd avoid pulling too hard on them.
Jul 3, 2010
A 2 meter boulder problem with a terrible landing followed by about 6 meters of easy climbing, it that. Fun to do if you are there, but not worth going to as a destination.
May 8, 2008
- Grand Jam Right
Agree with the above comments, Far Right is a grade harder than the middle route. Used medium to small wires to protect.
Apr 15, 2015
Solid moves between good gear-placing stances... for all of 7 meters.
May 8, 2008
Easily felt a full grade harder than TopKnot Center route.
Apr 23, 2008
This route felt slightly harder than grand jam. OK route.
Apr 18, 2008
- Petite Arete
- Frisky Cliff
- Borg, The
I fell and hung on all the bolts in 2016, and they're fine. Great route. A tricky opening jump into sustained roof climbing that sticks with you all the way until you rock onto the slab.
Nov 29, 2016
I got on this thing today: the first bolt is oldschool-sketch and then as I leaned out to try the crux moves I looked at the 2nd bolt and the nut on the bolt had nearly unwound itself. I tried to get it as tight as possible. Just an FYI, take a look to see if the hanger is well secured before going for the dyno crux, it may be good for your longevity. Dope bouldery opening sequence. The first 3 draws are in place at this time.
Aug 19, 2009
I replaced the hanger today. Hopefully this one lasts longer than the last.
Jun 29, 2008
There's a number 2 RP placement instead. As the retro-trad wave continues, look for more missing bolts/hangers.... Seriously, the first bolt should be a glue-in since the leverage it gets is intense and virtually any hanger is eventually pried off. That's my guess. I noticed the problem when I did the route way back when and posted accordingly in 2004.
May 4, 2008
As of 5/3/08 the hanger for first bolt on the overhang is missing again. What's the deal?
May 3, 2008
This climb has one [redeeming] quality - it's steep. otherwise, there is no real line (you could just as well go up and over the roof at any point) and it was blasted to existence from the aqueduct. The fact that it got any press is attributable to the popularity of Moon at the time. There were likely hundreds of FAs at the time that should have been reported in lieu.
Sep 13, 2004
This would be a good candidate for a glue-in since it takes a lot of hard pulling from falling at the start.
Sep 10, 2004
The externally threaded bolt stud is there, but no hanger or nut.
Sep 9, 2004
Is the first bolt still missing?
Sep 9, 2004
- Con Gaz
- Double Impact
This is a nice alternative to Van Damage if you don't want to deal with the wide, cupped hand jam in the roof and then all the flared hand jams from there on. Four bolts of in your face underclingin', I counted 13 of 'em! Really fun addition to the crag. I still taped my hands for the top of this one. Have fun.
Sep 27, 2015
- Orb, The
There are new bolts to the right of the start of The Orb, creating a "direct start" for the route. It links into The Orb at the 3rd bolt. Anyone know what this is? Grade?
Sep 21, 2015
Beta: a left knee pad allows you to get a no hands rest before the crux and then use the left knee pad again as you make a left hand move up to the funky 1.5 finger sidepull/pocket. Stellar route. Super-technotronic foot work.
Aug 19, 2009
Great route; thanks Peter!
Aug 30, 2004
- Pesky
- Rumors of Glory
I didn't chip anything when I did the route! Cheers Jesse
Jun 4, 2010
- Sin Gaz
I just sent this route and had an absolute blast doing so. It was nice to return to the bottom crux of Sinopia and do a new finish to it. I put a long draw on the first independent bolt on the route, slapped it, clipped it, and continued on. Highly recommended! I swear this route felt just as hard as Sinopia :)
Jul 19, 2015
It should be noted that the direct start has the working title of Con Gaz. The top crux is a little tricky.
Jul 16, 2013
- Sinopia
I did this route in October of 2014 in the cold. Such a wonderful, finicky journey. Absolutely worth the trek up here. Good job, Peter Beal! It's hard for me to rate this, as I'm not a good 'granite rock climber', but it seemed like it could be 5.13a?
Jul 19, 2015
My take on the rating. If you are 5'10" or taller, 5.12c/d, unless at 5'10" you have negative ape index. If you are under 5'10", 5.13a. It's that simple, IMHO. Great moves, 4 stars out of 5!
Mar 3, 2015
I agree that it is definitely harder than it looks, but still not 13a. Fun route, though.
Oct 22, 2012
And the direct left start on the Z-seams would be "Con Gaz," or at least that's what we were calling it, but we never could do it. V-double-digit something or other, open project, start with the first bolt stick-clipped, have at it, don't trash your right shoulder....
Sep 20, 2012
That is Sin Gaz. 12c-ish? Kind of fun but not as good as Sinopia.
Sep 20, 2012
There is also a line that shares the first crux and then, from the jug, goes right through another crux and up to the slab.
Sep 19, 2012
We were up here today...anyone know what the thin recently bolted face start to the immediate left of the Sinopia start is? It is quite thin, sharp and devious....
Mar 31, 2012
Great route for a summer morning. The trick for me was figuring out the move off the sloping shelf past the 5th bolt. There are several ways to do this lunge move, but only one worked for me. A second crux past 6th bolt was powerful but more obvious. Still more 5.12 above. This climb has a total of four 5.12 section in a row. The 5.11d dihedral start can feel pretty burly too.
Jan 11, 2012
I had left draws and a cam on Sinopia at the end of December '07, I noticed recently that they are gone and different draws in place. If anyone has my gear, I would love to get it back. Cheers
May 2, 2008
- Van Damage
Felt great to clip the anchors on this bad boy and had so much fun working on it. What a great addition to the cliff. Make sure to tape both hands to the wrists and a knee pad for the right is helpful. I put a long draw on the sixth bolt to make it a more friendly clip. Enjoy and yes, this is full on jamming.
Aug 27, 2015
Classic! You could also have a special shirt sewn-up with a foam back, just in case your belayer is asleep at the wheel. But in all seriousness, having seen people take the falls at the hard moves, you end up stopping well short of the back of the gully...as long as you don't skip any clips.
Oct 27, 2011
Hilarious. I thought about bolting this line way back but felt it was much too close to the gully. Well done.
Oct 27, 2011
- Frogman Pinnacle
- Chimney
What a fun little route with good protection deep in the crack! Must be pretty skinny to fit or else you are climbing on the outside! Also, don't climb this when it's icy and there is snow everywhere ;)
Feb 25, 2015
This is definitely a squeeze chimney; depending on your size and technique, it may be more of an offwidth. I did it facing both directions and found one way to be more difficult.
May 15, 2012
Quick and dirty. Fun if you're soloing in the area or need an easy intro to squeeze chimneys, otherwise not really worth a trip.
Jul 4, 2010
I find myself liking chimneys and offwidths recently, and my unplanned trip up this was enjoyable. I think it's a great experience, and good practice for those squeeze slots up on the bigger walls.
Jun 27, 2007
- Frogman
- Garden Party Wall
- Can't Please Everyone
Tricky onsight. If you can find the hidden hold, cruiser.
Jul 7, 2013
- Dirty Love
- Illusionist, The
Interesting route. My first attempt it felt really, really hard, but I was paying too much attention to the 2nd bolt above the roof and trying to use it as a clue on which way to go over the roof. Big mistake. I was trying to figure out what was going on, as Bob/Greg's routes aren't generally stiff for the grade. I was pretty baffled. second time, just following the climbing, went much easier. If it feels really hard, take a step back and try something different - you are likely in left field.... The crack/jug under Bob's foot in the photo is caked in some sort of shit and pretty much unusable (for a hold and for gear as well). You can get a pretty good 0.75 Camalot out right though. The climbing above and below the roof was pretty good. Technical, delicate, and fun.
Jul 14, 2013
OK, but far from the best at Sherwood, IMHO.
Jun 18, 2012
Excellent climbing. For what it's worth, even I was able to TR this route without falling. That may have been an illusion. Then, later in the day, I shot 1 under par at West Woods golf course from the tips. Anybody for golf?
Jul 21, 2008
- Right Crack
The knifeblade has been removed due to its sheer lack of protection. My partner who led this sketchy climb was able to weight it, but when he did it levered. I followed, inspected it, and saw it had little or no potential of holding another's weight or fall. Someone with the proper experience may consider replacing the knifeblade it he/she desires to do this climb. With all the other great trad lines in Boulder Canyon, I wonder why one would.
Aug 1, 2005
- Topiary
Fun route. Has cleaned up nice. Good crag in the summer, till 2:00.
Jul 7, 2013
This route is very good. The climbing from the 2nd to 6th bolt is very continuous with a variety of moves -- good holds with bad feet followed by bad holds with good feet. The rock is surprisingly clean -- as clean as anything at Sherwood Forest a whole 2 min away. I'd give it 2.5 stars. Getting the feet situated over the roof is the crux. Bob's rating is certainly in the ballpark.
Jul 16, 2008
- Goofy Spire
- East Face
FWIW, I recommend belaying a pitch of climbing up to the base of this route. The approach bit is slippery and exposed. A fall here would suck.
Jul 1, 2014
The approach to Goofy Spire is short and a bit ugly, but the crack in the right-side corner of the dihedral (just left of center in the picture) climbs quite nicely up to the little oval-shaped roof. A somewhat awkward move gets you around the right side of the roof, which may be the crux.
Jun 29, 2014
- Goofy
Jason, did you name it? We can adjust the name to the earliest known ascent.
Aug 10, 2015
I free soloed this line in 2005, but I'm sure it had been done decades before that.
Aug 9, 2015
- North Face
Not as good a route as the East Face route but OK as a toprope. After trying a direct vertical start up the face with much lichen and minimal feet, which felt at least 5.11, we climbed up the chossy inset just right of the face (5.5?) then traversed left onto the face like George mentioned. Decent climbing up from there (5.7 or higher, depending on where you traverse out onto the face).
Jun 29, 2014
- Happy Hour Crag
- Are We Not Men
I may be a glutton for the obscure, but I think this is my favorite moderate at Happy Hour. Relative to other climbs at Happy Hour, the climbing in continuous, there are interesting features, and there is an exciting 20ft+ runout on 5.7 terrain to keep things exciting. The roof moves (attacked directly) are cryptic at first, adding to the tasty flavor of this climb.
Jun 1, 2015
Climbed up the flake on the right of the normal route to add some excitement to the climb.
Oct 1, 2011
Ditto on the runout. Not much happening after the roof. Feet are pretty decent, hands are ok. Wouldn't recommend falling on the second half. Just push on through and the finish tapers off. Moves are 5.7, but the commitment is much higher.
Aug 23, 2009
Can lead on gear, but be prepared to run it out after you pull the roof. Crack above the roof is flared and a solid 20 feet before you get another piece in.
May 13, 2009
I also think this is a good lead. I think the bottom part is pretty sustained for 5.7. Not a great climb for the blossoming 5.7 leader.
Jun 26, 2008
Though listed as a TR, this is a pretty good lead as well. The roof (crux) protects well but be prepared to run it out about 10-15' on good holds after passing the roof. The next good pro is a #5 Stopper in a crack out to the right where the next higher roof starts. Standard rack works well; nothing too big or super small needed.
May 28, 2005
- Are We Not Robots
- Baby Aliens
- Bad Sneakers
The move at the bottom is hard and is about a body length long. It does not look like good protection at the crux. I top roped the climb. The rest of the climb is much easier.
Aug 27, 2014
- Bent Faith
This feels a little harder than 5.7, and there really is no pro on the upper section.
Jan 15, 2014
Cool little route, instead of going straight to the top with no pro we hung a right on the ledge, through a bush and then up a crack with some cool moves.
Mar 21, 2006
- Big Spit, The
This line is prett cool. I really enjoyed the traverse onto the face above the roof, and the crux is exciting. A tad run out when doing the traverse, but everything is there. I also started left of the right-facing corner mentioned above. It looked too dirty and lacking in pro to really be enjoyable. I suppose either way is good though. Finger-sized cams worked well here.
Oct 7, 2017
This is a fine climb. I climb this every visit. Climbs much better and bigger than it looks, which is good because admittedly it looks like hardly anything. Tony is right, the line on the photo is incorrect. The upper part takes the nice crack above the roof, just as Tony says. Down low I've always started a tad left of the start marked on the photo, directly up to the left side of the roof. Moving right, onto the lip of the roof is really fun, and the crack above is brief but elegant. Years ago, while soloing this, I was near the top, pulling up the crack, when a toproper, out of sight, but only a few feet above, threw his rope off; no big deal except for the bloodcurdling scream, which I imagine was intended to sound like "R-O-O-O-P-E," right in my ear. Climbers on Cob Rock must have looked over in surprise. I nearly jumped off in fright.
Jun 26, 2007
Watch out for the big pile of animal dropping right below the roof. This climb is a little on the dirty side from top ropers kicking dirt down on it. This route is worth doing, if it is the only route that has not been seiged by the TR gangs.
Aug 2, 2003
- Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise
Reachy. Good TR.
Jul 19, 2011
Pretty disappointing to hear the horn was added. Totally changes the route and gives you a huge rest in the midst of a nice sequence. I'll try it next time without the modification.
Nov 17, 2009
I'm surprised to hear that horn was added. A great project for next time. Be prepared to place gear this is not a sport route.
Jun 14, 2009
I have no idea what this horn is that everyone is talking about. I found the last few moves to be the crux, but then I got into the layback and it went really easily. You can sew up the last layback with a blue and yellow tcu if you like. A stopper would also work there.
May 15, 2008
Thought this was a wee bit harder than easy 5.10 to onsight, but seemed pretty easy a second time on TR once you knew the holds. I placed some mid-sized nuts down low and a #6 near the top...probably about a green Alien size pod. The horn did make it a lot easier.
Mar 15, 2008
A #7 BD stopper fits quite nicely in a small crack above the horn to provide some protection above the second bolt.
Jan 10, 2004
This route has seem some alteration. I climbed this route for the first time in 1998. I remember the finish through the layback to be committing. It was an exciting route and my favorite on Happy Hour. I warm up here on the way to Security Risk a lot. I went back in 2000 or 2001 I cannot remember and someone had carved a small horn in the rock before the finishing layback moves. I could now throw a sling around the horn and protect the moves. It looked like someone brought a grinder up there and ground the horn down. This should be placed on the modified route list.
Sep 9, 2003
I thought above the second bolt was the crux. There is a bomber jug out right, but I couldn't really reach it, so slapped sloper and pulled hard. A green/yellow offset Alien provides comfort in the pod area. Committing layback to finish.
Sep 26, 2002
From the anchors you can also TR the right hand side of the arete directly to the left of this. This is essentially the outter edge of dimentia. It goes solid 5.11 with a single move to the right escaping the arete before returning to it just after. Climb from the top of the arete to the bolts. There would be no protection on lead. Without this escape move, the route might be 5.11+.
May 14, 2002
There most certainly is the 2 bolt anchor just up and above the top-out of the climb, below the actual top of the cliff. This route is quite nice, as most of the others at Happy Hour. Reaching the bolt is a bit of a stretch as indicated but the climbing can be eased by backing down and then getting just below and left of the bolt and following this line, I would say perhaps 10a this way 10b straight up and right of the bolt, as there is a funky foot match and small crimps to pull on. 2 stars.
Nov 14, 2001
- Cruel Shoes
I thought I did this climb based on the Mark Rolofson topo, but I may have climbed a short crack even further right. I did not have a dihedral for stemming, but the rating felt about right.
Aug 27, 2014
I liked the moves on this climb, fun stemming and cool moves, would get three stars if it was 50 feet longer.
Nov 14, 2005
- Dementia
There's now a nut keeping the unreachable tricam and the fixed cam company near the top of the open book. It wiggles ever so slightly but definitely wasn't coming out after our whole group TR'd the route. Brian, seems like each person in my group did it a bit differently. I faced right in the lower part of the book (left hand in finger crack, right hand using right arete), then turned around and did a left foot high step and cranked a really hard left sidepull to stand up on it. Definitely a power move after using both rattly fingers in the crack at various times while unclipping directionals on TR.
Aug 7, 2017
I've found 2 different options to get through the crux. The one I see most people do is to do a very thin, wide stem move across the book and grab the horn with your left hand. The other is to climb the finger crack a bit higher until your left foot can stem across to that same horn. Although the finger crack option is harder, I feel it is the more quality way to climb the route and makes it one of the hardest 10a's I've ever tried. Anybody else have an opinion on this?
May 2, 2017
TR'd this but wouldn't do it again. The rope drops into a crack and runs over a bit of a ledge
Sep 22, 2016
Amazing route! I was climbing Dementia today and was unable to retrieve my BD #0.3 cam from the top of crux. If anyone frees it or finds it, I would gladly offer a 24-pack of beer of your choosing if I could get that essential piece of my rack returned. I would be so grateful!
May 14, 2013
I agree with Ron Olsen, it felt easier than Cosmosis.
Mar 15, 2013
^^^ I ate your yellow Metolius for breakfast!!!
Sep 29, 2012
I tried getting your yellow Metolius out but to no avail, sorry, my friend.
May 28, 2012
My #2 Mastercam walked itself into oblivion in the middle of the finger crack. If you can get it out, I owe you a 6 pack. Thanks!
May 26, 2012
A great line but a proper grunt.
Oct 14, 2011
Finally lead this climb after cleaning it about 4 months ago and so glad I did. All I have to say is don't get splitter vision like me, cuz it gets way steep. Fortunately I looked around in time to get some good stemming in while placing the 0.3? before gunning it to the top.
Nov 21, 2010
At 6'4", my partner had no trouble stemming to a great left foothold while in the V slot. At 5'1", I obviously couldn't reach it unless I had been wearing 9" spiked heels with sticky rubber. Chimney technique is the way to go if you're on the short side like me.
Oct 11, 2010
This climb is pretty strenuous going up through the V slot unless you figure out the beta better than I did. I just kinda jumped for the hold right at the roof, because I was sick of the finger locks. It was pretty sustained. One of the more "true" 5.10a's in the canyon. The gear is bomber throughout, and there is a #0.3 C4 jammed in right below what I thought was the crux.
Apr 21, 2009
One of the best climbs at the crag. I'm 5'9"; the v slot isn't a problem if you chimney up with right hand in the crack, left hand flat on the wall at your back by the arete and feet smearing on the features. It's a cool section.
Sep 23, 2007
You go with that pink tricam, Kevin! A man after my own heart. (There aren't many of us left. Let's form a support group!) From the route description: "...A traverse out the top leads to chain anchors. Long runners to avoid rope drag if toproping." I would think twice about toproping Dementia from the chains. The angles and swing potential for the climber once in the 'business' would be...interesting. If toproping it, build a solid directional after exiting the roof or, better yet, just get ya some small gear and go for it. It's remarkably safe as a lead.
Jun 16, 2007
This route is very memorable...short but sweet! I found the smallest tricams to be perfect placements in the cruxy section.
Oct 15, 2006
Fun route...attempted with H. McIntyre on 5/14/06 but backed off the crux because the smallest cam I had was a 0.5 Camalot. I'd recommend red and yellow Aliens or equivalent size for the finger crack. Would have preferred to use stoppers, but I didn't think the geometry of the crack looked all that good for stopper placements. Or, maybe I'm just chicken.
May 18, 2006
Was on the sharp end of this stellar route today, and agree with Ron and others, in that those with a long inseam (I'm 5'11") will not have to go to the top of the crack for a stem way left. This stem is a long/wide one, and is 3/4 the way up the crack, involving a short smear up the face with close to perfect finger/hand jams on great rock. The sequence above the open book is also excellent... Thoughtful, sustained moves throughout... Protects well with medium to large stoppers, small cams up to and including a #2 Camalot.
Sep 1, 2004
I used two #2 Metolius cams at the crux. You can equilize a few nuts at the last ledge stance (medium to small I think). I remember using a #3 Metolius after the crux. I got the stem move (5'11"), You can reach way out and do a palm smear, then swing your left leg out to stem. I also found good footholds on the overhanging (right) side of the book. I onsighted this but fell on Cosmosis, I guess they're both around 10a, Cosmosis is just much more sustained. This was one of my first 10a trad leads, super cool route. Kind of like Yosemite but shorter.
Aug 21, 2004
Delightful. The grade is right on for the crux, which is the open book slightly overhung tasty fingers bit. It's solid fingers and placements makes it the perfect first 10 lead. Way to grunt sal! There is a fixed cam just atop the crux which looks a little worn but still good. Next time, rock, paper, scissors is mine to win.
Nov 12, 2003
I felt that this route was very true to its grade. I have lead many bolted 10s and 11s, however this was my first ever 5.10 trad lead. I enjoyed the route very much. The slightly overhanging open book is killer, and the finger locks are bomber. For future climbers who are just pushing into 10s on gear, I recommend keeping your pro organized and ready to plug in, when in the open book. I chose to keep a yellow Alien in my mouth, so that I would not have to futz with finding gear on my belt. Overall, the route was killer, I had a great time, and it was even November.
Nov 11, 2003
One of the best routes at Happy Hour. Interesting, sustained climbing from bottom to top. The difficulty of the crux is height-dependent: I'm tall enough (6' 1") to be able to do it with a wide stem, but shorter climbers have to do a harder sequence. For me, the crux is more like 5.9 than 5.10a, but I have seen shorter climbers who can do other Boulder Canyon 5.9s struggle with the crux. For sure, Dementia is easier than Cosmosis, so perhaps the 10a rating is a bit inflated. Easier than Cosmosis, and easier if you're tall.
Sep 25, 2003
This route is not as good as the hype...pretty much a ledge walk all the way up the thing. One hard move at the top of the flared grove and it's over. A good first 10 lead.
Sep 25, 2003
It is a good climb, a fun climb, but there are harder 5.9s in the canyon.
Feb 4, 2003
A very impressive route and a solid 10a for sure. Nuts protect the crux as well as TCU's so pop em' in there and crank. A really good character building lead for the ambitious 5.10 leaders in the group, I would say the best route at Happy Hour and a very stiff lead, enjoyed it a lot ! 5 stars on a 3 star rating.
Nov 14, 2001
That's funny, Mark! Isn't this the ONLY 5.10 at Happy Hour?? OK, I guess Cheers is 10a too. But I count only 2 5.10's!
Aug 13, 2001
Solid 10a through the crux and a fantastic climb. Two bombproof palcements through the crux (a blue and yellow TCU) inspires much confidence. Probably the best route at Happy Hour for its grade.
Jun 28, 2001
- Great Race, The
Maybe if I had thinner fingers this would have been 10a. Couldn't jam my digits well past the shallow hand pod. Gear I used: two blue aliens, two green Aliens, red and yellow C3, blue DMM offset nut and BD 2. This sewed it up well.
Mar 12, 2017
I too think this climb is at least 10a in difficulty. The hard moves are at the bottom and only a body length long. The pro is good at the crux. Starting to the left is possible as Leo Paik mentions.
Aug 22, 2014
It seemed as if the path of least resistance is, once you get pro to start, to be just left of the dihedral for a couple moves utilizing some small footholds on that little face to get started. Then, you can reach around into the dihedral. Going straight up in the dihedral to start seemed forced.
Nov 1, 2013
I think this route is may be .10b if you have very thin fingers. I couldn't make the moves through the thin section, couldn't even get a fingertip lock with my fat fingers (and it doesn't help that the rock is absolutely polished with no real footholds to start), so I can't rate this; my friend who climbs solid 5.11 said he felt this was .10d/.11a.
Sep 19, 2012
There's a very large boulder at the top and a little to the left for the anchor that looks solid, don't use it. I originally slung it with a runner. Then looked a little closer and gave it a little nudge, it moved, pushing it a little harder might have brought it down.
Jun 20, 2006
This is way stiff at 5.9+ in my opinion. I thought [Dementia] (5.10a) was easier than this climb. The crux is right off the ground with poor feet and bad hands. I wanted so bad to get a good finger lock in the crack but just couldn't fit my digits in there. The pro is very good with small stoppers, blue and green Aliens. Be careful with your pro placements as I came within a foot or two of decking when I missed a clip. With that said, it seems like a very balancy climb that is much more about finesse and sequence than power. A good problem but more in the 5.10 range.
Nov 14, 2005
- Grins
Super great climb, I found the crux much harder than Twofers. Just my two cents.
Feb 17, 2017
As much fun as Dementia & Nightcap are, think I'd say my fave at Happy Hour!
Jun 19, 2015
Awesome climb! The crux gets your heart pumping but has great hand holds, small holds and friction for feet. A member of our party had to bail off lead just past the crux as to avoid being late for work this morning. A small nut and nonlocker, tagged blue/purple, were left behind. I will be headed back tomorrow (Monday) after work to retrieve them, but if anyone is up there today...I would greatly appreciate them returned, in exchange for a couple beers on me after your climb. Nine-1-9-four26-seven1sevenfive. Climb on!
Jul 7, 2013
Good route. Bad pro at the start, and good climbing doesn't begin until nearly half-way up the route! Twofers is better.
Aug 14, 2011
I'm a super noob as far as trad leading is concerned and have probably lead a dozen routes... and I say Beauty!... very appropriately named. I grinned like a retard when I got to the top. This is one of the most sustained routes (<5.8). I've climbed at Happy Hour about 20 feet below the chains there was the option of going left or right. I attempted going right, placed a cam, clucked like a chicken, retrieved my cam, descended, and went left which I thought was easier... assuming I am not high, any comments on what this variation is rated? I used 8 pieces total... 2 small Aliens, cam and hexes. Twofers was my first 5.8 lead on trad a couple weeks ago. If I were to compare I'd say this one was longer and more sustained with 2-3 interesting moves. Steve's story was a great way to get started on this route.
Oct 4, 2009
My third 5.8 trad lead. I agree it was a great beginner route, as state above, for this grade.
Jul 31, 2008
Egads, Steve! Now you've gone and signed your name to that one.
Sep 22, 2007
Last time I climbed this was with a semi-beginner. I think I'll leave off his name. He led it, belayed, then took in the rope. So far so good. At this point, as per usual, I wanted to put my climbing shoes on. I stepped back to grab them, but the rope was already tight. And stayed tight. I yelled, slack! over and over, but the creek was high, he was way out of sight above, and he could not hear. In fact, he just pulled harder. So I ended up in midair, upside down, just off the ground; swinging like a mad spider, pawing the ground like a dog running on a hardwood floor and panting and laughing like a mad drunk, and eventually grabbed one shoe. I righted myself, put it on hanging with my feet just inches off the ground, then commenced battle again. A crucial couple of inches had since been pulled in, so I could barely reach the ground anymore. Finally, I found a handy stick to prod the shoe closer, and lift it off the ground so I could grab it. Hmmmm. Rereading this, I think perhaps I should leave my name off too.
Jun 26, 2007
Lot of fun. Don't miss it if at the crag.
Jun 22, 2005
Just led this one on saturday. very good route with lots of pro. The crux is definately turning a corner using hand jams, so make sure you can jam well. Plenty of pro, bring big cams 2,3,4 or big hexs for upper portion of the route.
Dec 6, 2004
Fun climb. I think it's definitely a good first 5.8 lead as it isn't all that sustained and has plenty of good rest stances to get in solid pro.
Oct 21, 2003
TRed this one yesterday and had a dandy time. As has been mentioned, a 50m rope is just long enough for the climb, which ever side of the tooth you start on. The anchors are pretty exposed, though and I rigged a bellay to get out there. Fantastic climb, 3-stars all the way. I didn't see too manyhand jam opportunities but there was a nice mix techniques from stemming to laybacks. The crux is about half way up with a thin finger crack/dihedral stem to a fat undercling to another layback.Anyway, gorgeous climb on quality rock!
Sep 10, 2003
I agree with the three star rating. This is a fun pitch, and a great lead. The crux (for me) was a high-step from a stance at an undercling about halfway up. The gear is fantastic all the way up. ...and as much as I hate to disagree with Myke, I've belayed topropers on this climb with a 50m cord, and it works just fine.
Feb 27, 2002
I agree that this route is a good route to hand jam in but perhaps not to be leading at first, it is easy but not that easy, take one of the routes to the left like Twofers and lead this for practice, but indeed this route has nice hand jams. I would give it 3 stars where you only gave it 2, it is worth 3.
Nov 14, 2001
This is a good route for beginners to learn to hand-jam in.
Sep 20, 2001
- Hands Off
Many people mention stemming the crux. I did not stem, and it still felt 5.7 for difficulty. There is good pro the whole way and interesting climbing.
Aug 22, 2014
As already stated, this route is short, but definitely worth while. I felt the crux was harder than the given rating of 5.7 with small/tricky protection. That being said, the moves are all there and was a fun climb.
Apr 26, 2012
Pretty short... I thought the moves felt harder than on Malign, but then I'm not good at stemming / thin cracks. I agree with the 5.7 rating although I felt it was harder than the other Happy Hour 5.7s I've led.
Oct 4, 2009
Toproped this route with my 7 year old daughter and my friend Monique who is mostly an indoor climber. We all had a good time. This is a good route to toprope since their are plenty of anchoring locations at the top and the route is almost entirely vertical except for the very bottom. It is also a good climb for enthusiastic but non-hard-core kids; not too much of an approach, a fairly short route and a relatively nice place to hang out at the bottom.
Jul 12, 2009
Protection was good the whole way. The option for easy stemming through the crux makes this a 5.7. Pretty short, but worth the quick go.
Jul 31, 2008
The protection gets a little thin (small nuts) a few moves into the dihedral, but I was still able to put about 12 pieces into this route, and they all seemed quite solid. This thing eats medium cams--I used a #0.75, 2-#1, 2-#2, a #3, and a #3.5 Camalots, plus a couple of stoppers (#4, #9, and #13, I think). Don't be worried about the pro. The stems are fun, but the good part of the route is so short that I'm not really sure it's worth it. Happy Hour has a lot of better climbs.
Jan 20, 2003
- I, Robot
This is a very fun warm-up. The pro is decent, and the finger crack is awesome. For such a short pitch, this packs in a good time. Bomber finger locks and just a tiny bit heady for 5.7. Get after it!
Oct 7, 2017
On lead, if you stick strictly to the initial corner and the upper finger crack, it turns into quite the challenging route. Flared finger section that's a bit difficult to protect before the awesome last 10 feet of finger crack.
Jul 28, 2017
All about that finger crack. There were also super straightforward gear placements for an anchor when you gain the ledge, so it would be pretty good for setting up a toprope. Definitely give it a higher grade if starting in the corner immediately next to the tree, as well as if you stay with the finger crack that takes you to the same ledge as the 5.5 route to the left.
May 22, 2015
Top half of climb is 3 stars, Great finger crack . Fun climb. The start was a little awkward but not difficult. I'd agree with 5.7+ if you use just the crack on the upper part.
Jul 6, 2014
I gave this three stars, because the climbing is really great with a lot of fun moves, especially for such a moderate grade.
Nov 19, 2011
Taken direct, this has a well-protected UK 5a move in the top crack, so I don't understand the 5.7 rating.
Oct 14, 2011
Sweet finger locks at the top. I would have given 3 stars if it were longer....
Mar 15, 2010
I just did this as my first 5.7 lead. I found it relatively straight-forward to sew up the finger-crack on the upper part of the pitch with finger-sized cams (e.g., blue to yellow Aliens). If you have small-to-medium sized hands, you can get in some great finger locks that will get you through the smeary crux with limited fretting.
Sep 30, 2006
Cool crux, it's lots of fun if you only use the finger crack and don't wimp out and go left. There is a fixed stopper at the crux as of 3/18/06. I would say only using the finger crack by itself could go at 5.8.
Mar 21, 2006
If you lead this, make sure to have plenty of small gear for the thin fingers crack up above. Small nuts and Aliens work well. Some good finger locks in the crack, but the feet are mostly smears at the crux (a small bulge) - harder than it looks from below, but 5.7 feels about right.
May 28, 2005
This route can also be led with a standard rack, up to a #3.5 Camalot. The crack that I went up, moving left to right diagonally as you look up was flaring, but it did take two cams. Leading this is certainly an option before it gets covered in top ropes, although the flaring cracks made the pro less than ideal. Not just for top roping!
Sep 23, 2002
- Last Call
There are several variations to this line that possibly make it even better. 1) Start as for Rush Hour and move right around the small roof to join the original line: awkward but interesting and well-protected 5.9+/5.10-. 2) After the normal crux bulge, continue straight up a short thin corner instead of angling left (short tricky crux, well-protected with small wires). This takes you almost to the top of Dementia's corner. Now head up and a little left through steep ground to rejoin the usual route just below the top. Combining variations 1 and 2 with the usual crux makes for a very direct and sustained line, and certainly one of the best low 5.10 pitches in the canyon. 3) Dave Goldstein showed me a fun linkup of Last Call to Dementia: Climb through the normal crux of Last Call, step up and place a 4 (or maybe 3.5) cam in a horizontal, then traverse right (fun face climbing) to the bottom of Dementia's crux corner. Continue to the top. Another great low 5.10 pitch.
Nov 12, 2017
I also found this to be noticeably more difficult than Dementia, some of the moves are fairly awkward. No move is harder than 5.9, but very few are any easier. Super sustained at the grade.... So call it 9+.
Apr 4, 2016
There are bolts above this climb, probably for Rush Hour, and they look safer to reach from above than the Dementia anchors which are at about the same level. I solo down climbed to the anchor, so I know it is possible. The crux on this is difficult but very short.
Aug 29, 2014
If your second wants to climb it, I'd recommend belaying from the top rather than toproping since the rock is a little sharp in places. There are two bolts with rap rings at the top. Also, don't forget to place gear to keep the rope out of the crack.
Aug 21, 2014
I actually thought this was considerably easier than Dementia. Hard for a 5.9, as you have to place gear while hanging out on the overhanging section, but the hold there is good, and a medium sized slotted nut is quick to place with the left hand. One awkward move in the middle brings you to easier climbing. Walk off is recommended. I think this is the most sustained and best 5.9 at this crag, and may be the best climb at the cliff, it's a toss-up between this and Twofer's for me. I like the sand-bag potential for Twofer's better ;-) .
Mar 23, 2009
If Dementia is 5.10a, then this is .10b. More physically-intensive then Dementia for sure. Small stoppers and/or big RPs help protect the thin crack before the 2nd roof. It is possible to traverse right at the top and lower off the Dementia anchors with a 60m rope. However, if you do this make sure to use a long sling on any gear placed after the second roof. Great route!
Oct 30, 2006
Remember those 5.9 overhangs in the gym that you thought didn't exist outside? There is nothing slight about the overhang IMHO. A fantastic climb at the grade with plentiful pro; albeit a little tricky to place going around the roof. This was an awesome climb, I can't wait to do it again!
Jan 2, 2006
Along with Dementia, the best route on Happy Hour. Sustained, interesting climbing throughout with a burly layback crux past the roof. Set up a gear anchor to belay, then traverse right and rap from the bolts atop Cheers (aka Thrill of the Chaise) to get down.
Oct 25, 2003
This route is the best on the cliff...really spectacular and 10 times better than Dementia. The crux is definitely getting over the chimney roof, then there is some more hard laybacking up above. This climb is probably a sandbag, but the protection is excellent.
Sep 25, 2003
I thought this route was almost as good as Dementia (which I think is the best pitch in the canyon) and as good as any other route at Happy Hour. Felt stiff for 5.9 (pumpy!) but the gear is pretty good, albeit a little awkward in places. Surprising this route is star-less in Rossiter's guide. The anchor on top can be set with #1 to #4 Camalots; I used a #1, #3 and #3.5.
Jun 26, 2003
Really fun, and kinda hard at it's grade for this cliff.
May 22, 2002
- Last Laugh
Does anyone know what the bolted line (4-5 bolts) is to the left? I liked it better, but that line felt harder than 11a. 11+?
Apr 30, 2015
The bolts and anchor have been replaced. Thanks to the Boulder Climbing Community for supplying the hardware. Consider donating to them if you don't already.
Apr 12, 2015
Prod, Essentially, yes. The second crux is right above the 2 bolts. I believe that someone added one because the first was sketchy, but didn't finish the job. Or maybe they intentionally wanted a bail point between the thinner crux (scarier).
Mar 9, 2015
Sort of a 1 move wonder. I am pretty sure we were on route. Here is what we encountered. Clip bolt at top of tooth for Grins. Make interesting transition move to 2nd bolt. Keep heading up, 10' to 2 bolts? but not the anchor. Then up to the anchor? Sound right to anyone? Prod.
Apr 13, 2012
- Left Side
Good route. As others have said, the pro at the crux can be a little wide. Deep in the back of the crack near the top is a tipped out #3, so a #4 would probably work. Having nothing quite that wide, I placed a 0.3 in the sidepull and just decided not to fall. This was a friend's first ever outdoor climb, and it seemed like a good fit for him.
Jul 24, 2017
A #4 Camalot works great. You could place something bigger, but it is really not necessary.
Jan 15, 2014
Also, I think a number 4 works just fine in the crux. You can even bring up another if you want to protect the final 4th class moves to the anchor.
Jan 3, 2012
The climbing on this route is all pretty straightforward, but I thought the crux was a little spicy and I took my time with it.
Nov 19, 2011
You can easily set up a TR from the tree at the top of this climb. I would suggest hiking up the left side to set up the TR and hiking back down vs. rapping since the top is rather blocky and would make for a slow and careful rap. Great exposure to rock for beginners.
Apr 29, 2010
You can really sew this up with medium to big gear--very reassuring for beginning leaders. Scott mentioned his #4 Camalot wasn't big enough, but I found a place to make it work...and even climbed higher and scooted it up, so I guess I found two spots for it. :)
Sep 13, 2009
Great route...just a note that I found that a #4 BD wasn't big enough for the crux (if you want it). Next time I'll probably at least bring a #4.5. You can avoid the big piece by placing a cam up in the crux sidepull.
Aug 23, 2009
Great route for beginners.
Jul 6, 2007
- Malign
I was wondering how the OW would go. Turns out, it goes quite nicely if you reach in and find the crimp rail on the left bottom half. The route seemed at most 5.6 except for maybe one or two spots.
Aug 7, 2017
Sweet route. Climb it with only a set of nuts. There are many good places to put passive gear in.
Mar 8, 2016
Good route for new trad leaders. Plentiful gear, and if you bring large passive stuff, you can sink it everywhere. Fun!
Jun 27, 2015
While leading this for the first time, I thought about slinging the chockstone in the off-width part. Wasn't quite able to get it, so I moved on without, but when I moved above it and stood on the chockstone, it moved under my weight very slightly. So it may not be a trustworthy feature for pro.
Aug 29, 2013
I found this route lots of fun. I'm a new trad leader, and found it easy to protect, with good moves, and nice and long. Don't be fooled by D'Antonio's single star. This is good! For pro, bring single and double-length slings, as there are quite a few good spots for them during the climb, as well as at the top for a bomber anchor. If you're looking for something a bit spicier, you can traverse climber's left about 15 meters and do an easy down-climb to the chains above Thrill of the Chase. Good TR. Use slings to protect the traverse.
Jul 19, 2011
I don't recommend using the trees near the top for an anchor. Too sketchy IMHO. The OW was the mental crux for me because of the lack of pro. Yes, there is good pro below and above, but it sure seemed run out to me. Anyone else? I used my cordalette and set a fine anchor at the top of Nightcap.
Nov 19, 2006
Not sure about the "sustained" comment. Sure, many of the moves are 5.7, but there are also good rests after every 3-4 (maybe 5) moves (or maybe I'm just lazier/better at finding rests than many) ;^) There's a short OW about half way up. There's good gear below this, and a double length sling can be used to sling a chockstone near the end of the OW, but it's a bit strenuous to get in place. All-in-all a good, well-protected climb, if you're creative.
Aug 15, 2006
This was one of my first 5.7 leads and is quite momorable. Fun variations of moves keep things interesting and the gear is usually quite abundant. I was able to place anything from a blue TCU to a 3.5 Camalot, but since the route is a bit on the long side for Happy Hour, pack an adequate amount of pro. Right before the top you will see two finger-ish cracks: keep to the left one to avoid crossing ropes with anyone on Nightcap. Also, the belay ledge is quite roomy enough for two or three, should you need to share it.
Oct 19, 2005
This route is a lot more fun than it looks from below. Nice variety, good length, takes good pro but requires some thoughtful footwork to get comfortable stances. A great lead for the grade if at the crag. imho, grins has a harder crux.
Jun 22, 2005
This is a solid and sustained 5.7. The key is it is sustained. I had a friend who climbs 5.7 but rarely makes 5.8 that went up it quick and easy. I'll use that as a good [gauge] on the rating. Lots of varied moves make it fun. It is quite long for a Happy Hour climb. Previous posting noted setting the anchor in the block above Nightcap. Instead I went left at that block and set the anchor off the tree (looks dead at first glance but is very much alive) and a few pieces to back it up. You can see the plaque for Mike from the anchor stance, and comfortably escape off to the top whey you want to pull the anchor later. Rope then comes down directly between Malign and Nightcap. At the anchor I was a little ways past half rope. Pulling all my pro on the belay down to let the rope hang straight instead of curving right in the route freed up enough rope to make it back to the ground. As you then climb to the right near the top, flick the rope over the rock and you're fine. I also TR'd Nightcap off this anchor and it was fine. Lots of excellent opportunities for Pro on this route. A 5.7 lead will tend to put in a lot of pro since it is sustained 5.7, but be careful of the resultant rope drag due to all that pro and the right wandering nature of the route. DON'T use the chains above "Thrill of the Chase" for this route. They are way to far left. You'll be looking at a huge swing and some good non-equalized side loading on the chains.
Jun 18, 2005
An interesting and varied climb. My wife thought it was tricky and didn't like it, but its puzzling nature is what makes it fun. A tallented newby climber cruised up this route with not much problem and came down shaking with terror. "That's _really_ high up there!" she commented. Amen. If you rig a TR anchor from the small ledge at the top of Night Cap, you'll be looking at a long swing around some sharp edges. Dropping an anchor over the ledge about 8' to climber's right of Night Cap is probably optimal. From the ground, I can see a set of chains that might work, but I'll be damned if I can find them up top! Knowing Happy Hour, it's probably a mid-5th class scramble just to get there. Let us all remember the lesson of Mike Sofranko and Happy Hour... :-(
May 27, 2005
Regardless of ratings, I think this climb is [trickier] than its 5.8 [neighbor, Grins]. It's got some interesting moves and [isn't] that [wandering], great gear the whole way except maybe right off the ground depending how you start. [I'd] vote for 1.5 stars, it's worth doing.
Nov 11, 2003
- Nightcap
It is possible to plug in a 0.5 Camalot at the crux move. If you set it low enough, there should still be room for a good finger lock above it. At least there was for me. A 0.4 might also work well. Fun climb!
Sep 29, 2015
There is now a two bolt anchor with rings just below the top of this climb.
Sep 29, 2014
Really nice climb! Highly recommended. Well protected, long and fun. I recommend bouldering to the obvious 3 inch crack about 25 feet up and plugging a Camalot #4.
Jun 12, 2013
I also had some trouble with the crux move in the corner. I may have plugged up the key finger lock for the right hand with a #0.5, so I French-freed the move to get my feet high enough to snag a good left hand finger lock and I was out of the corner. I think I made the move harder than it needed to be, though.
Sep 12, 2010
Fun route with great movement. You'll find that the crux is evident, but not in the way of a good send; get high feet.
Jun 14, 2009
First 5.9 lead and it was awesome. Gear is easy and abundant. Had to hang on the rope a bit at the crux but eventually sacked up and made the move.
Aug 27, 2008
Great Route! I protected the crux with a green Alien, I actually took a very clean fall through the crux and the Alien was bomber.
Jun 10, 2006
Definitely a nice route, not very sustained (much like Grins in that regard) but does have some tricky moves.
Nov 17, 2003
Fun route, a good one to warm up on before hitting some of the other moderates. It didn't seem of very sustained nature. The crux was short, some interesting little bulges on the granite. Plenty of gear placements, seems like a good first 9 lead. Overall, Happy Hour is a great place to work on placing gear to your heart's delight while being able to challenge yourself.
Nov 12, 2003
Right you are, Jay; this pitch is a lot more interesting than it looks from the ground.
Sep 25, 2003
You might like having RPs for this climb, because the part below the crux is a bit tricky as well. A really good climb and a lot better than it looks from the ground.
Sep 25, 2003
I agree with the 3 stars for sure. The 5.9 section is very short indeed, also you dont need to build an anchor if you just run your rope back a little to a tree up and left and belay from here. You can scramble down and right to get to the anchors for 'grins' and rappell or downclimb. A very enjoyable route with a mix of everything. Enjoy..
Nov 14, 2001
This is a fun route. It's a little easier than a 5.9, the only 5.9 sections is the small overhang 3/4 the way up. Even thought this site says that it's a trad route, you could easily top rope it with an anchor between a big rock and a tree.
Aug 26, 2001
- Perched-Pillar Pile
- Rush Hour
I think this route was actually really cool for what it's worth. It's nice to have a moderate or two at this crag. It's hard to rate a 3 move boulder problem. I did find, however, that you can place the #3 (red) BD micronut right after you do the roof mantle. There is a thin crack on the left. I wouldn't think of it as pro, but it does hold a toprope fall for a follower. I also found that the rope runs nicely for the leader if you don't place until the hand jams under the roof, and if you are average height you can clip the bolt from a perfect handjam.
Jun 13, 2016
I thought this route was ok. The start caught me off guard a bit - I didn't even look at it until I started climbing. Not hard but not exactly easy. The move over the roof felt way awkward. Good hand holds but really scrunchy feet. Probably considerably easier if you are short, as the hand movements are pretty small. Good quick after work 12a, worth doing once. Also, if you are doing this one with somebody who will have trouble TR'ing the roof cleanly, you will want a plan. You don't really get gear after the roof until you go way up to the right. You will need to either back clean and try to get a piece way out left above, or do some other shenanigans. Otherwise, if the 2nd falls after unclipping the bolt, it would be an unpleasant, rope-grating swing.
Jun 19, 2013
Bogus route.
Jun 11, 2011
I do agree it was a 12 move, but somehow can't give it a 12 rating seeing as it finishes so easy. For you taller folk, did you have to use an intermediate after the left hand 3 finger shelf? If not, I can see how that makes it easier. At least with my foot smear, I def had to use that intermediate.
Oct 25, 2010
After doing it not knowing anything about it, I guessed 11c or 11d. Call it 11+ and we're good. I doubt it was 12a, but maybe I got lucky or something. Fun moves marred by discontinuity of a line and lots of guano below the roof.
May 7, 2008
Definitely .12- crux. One bolt on route (protects crux), is easy to clip from funky layback. Power up off tiny tiny holds to big finish. Rest of route gets R rating. Takes a few TCUs the rest of the way up.
May 9, 2007
I would strongly disagree that this route goes at 5.11, 12 minus in my opinion. It is actually quite enjoyable lead if you angle up and right and join Dementia at the roof. A one or 2 move wonder with fun climbing above. 1.5 stars in my book.
Jul 31, 2004
I think that .12 might be a little high for the grade on Rush Hour. My guess is that it it more like .11 b/c.
Jul 23, 2001
- Seein' Double
FYI, as of 3/31/15 all the bolts on this climb are gone. They were there about a month ago. Anyone know what happened to them?
Apr 1, 2015
Direct at 2nd to last bolt is balancy but not 5.12, or at least not hard 5.12 if you have a good wingspan. I still don't like the idea that this got bolted. It was always a nice TR, now it's a squeeze job with bolts clip-able from previously existing routes.
Mar 8, 2015
This is fun, but it feels almost impossible in the 2nd to last bolt area. The old Rolofson guide calls this section 13a.
Mar 15, 2013
Just climbed Dementia for the first time today and was wondering why all these bolts where within reach? Total squeeze job!
Oct 7, 2010
Don't be sorry, Steve, it's Bolted Canyon.
Jan 13, 2010
I guess I have not been up here in a while. Sorry Chris, I gotta say I think this is a poorly considered addition to the cliff.
Jun 26, 2007
Tried to toprope this line and kept running into holds on "Thrill of the Chaise". I wonder how many ascents a year this route sees. Bolts 2.5 feet away diagonally from bolts on "Thrill" kind of just cluttered up a good trad/mixed area. Can't wait to lead Dementia with some bolts clipped though.
Jun 20, 2005
Beware any route that says 11a or 12c.
Sep 7, 2004
I've always enjoyed "Thrill". I had no idea it was a trad route, but I usually augment the route with a few cams (it's pretty exciting if you only bring quickdraws). This new route seems a bit close to "Thrill", kind of like some of the grid bolting at Sport Park. I've noticed that most of the bolts at Happy Hour see very little traffic, as most people there choose to do the trad routes instead. I will most likely enjoy the route, all the same.
Aug 21, 2004
A historical note, since I was involved in the FA of Cheers with Rick Leitner and Kent Lugbill. We didn't knowingly retrobolt Thrill - we had no idea that the route had ever been done. We also did not drill the anchor bolts; these were apparently added later by local guides. A good route worth the two bolts, I think.
Aug 20, 2004
I would have to agree with the above comments. This route doubles the bolt count on any other route at the crag. The lower potion of the route is easily lead on trad gear 3ft to the left. The 3rd bolt can be clipped from Dementia. The climbing looks interesting, but it probably should not have been bolted with 8 bolts.
Aug 20, 2004
More regulated climbing is where we're headed. It's inevitable. Theres only going to be more people climbing and more people making impacts like this route. More regulation will happen.
Aug 20, 2004
Chris, Thrill of the Chaise has only two bolts in it and didn't encroach on any other route. I didn't know if it was a trad route and I don't really care. It seems like your bolts retro it even more.... Now, while climbing Thrill, instead of only having those two bolts for the route, one could also clip all of your bolts. Maybe this is why you called it Seeing Double....
Aug 20, 2004
More regulated climbing? Oh yes, that's what we need.
Aug 20, 2004
Routes like this make me think all climbing areas should be regulated as in Eldo or the Flatirons. Boulder Canyon is an uninspiring mess.
Aug 20, 2004
Darren, Cheers retrobolted an existing trad route. Why would you consider that a more valid route?
Jul 29, 2004
Should have been left a TR problem. poor choice to bolt this one.... Thrill of the Chaise (AKA Cheers) is not much of a thrill anymore. I should have had my wrench with me....
Jul 29, 2004
Seems like this one gets pretty close to Cheers.
Jul 13, 2004
Formerly a TR problem, now leadable. Does that make these retrobolts?
Jul 13, 2004
- Skid Row
- Teetotaler
Originally led with one bolt.
May 22, 2015
I thought the crux was a harder than 11a. It would be a difficult onsight as the holds aren't visible from your position as you enter the crux. Definitely take some small cams.
Jun 4, 2014
Easy to toprope, but the long "runout" up to the first bolt is all really easy (5.6 maybe?), and protectable with gear. I'm pretty certain that this is no harder than 10c, the most difficult moves are low near the first two bolts. Still fun, if you're at Happy Hour, throw a rope on it and enjoy.
Feb 20, 2004
It is a climb well worth doing! Great moves on the crux! Can seem a bit runout (I didn't think so), but the crux is well bolted and the run out parts can be protected. Good hand jammin' before the bolts, great place for pro if needed. Easy to top rope from top of Grins. DO IT!
Sep 22, 2002
- Tipsey
Really enjoyed this route. Not as hard as it looks in some places and harder than it looked in others.
Jul 23, 2015
- Twofers
After pulling the roof, there's definitely enough options for two or more gear placements (if you didn't already use the size, c3s work well). Then it's either a 10-15 ft runout with 5.6 holds or you can take the easier crack to the left, which provides more security. Expect lots of rope drag caused by the roof if you try a toprope, even with a well extended anchor up top. Even lowering and cleaning was rough on the rope. There's a perfect horizontal slot at waist level below the roof that gives the best pre-roof placement, either a purple or green c4 if I remember correctly.
May 22, 2015
Super fun roof! I had my helmet bumping the roof, and it took me a minute to find the great handholds above. Once I found the hold, it was pretty easy to turn the roof but still really fun. One of the more fun climbs I've done at Happy hour. Solid 5.8.
Sep 7, 2014
For the roof move, stemming seems to be key for us short climbers. That wonderful jug to the left is a bit of a reach.
Jun 2, 2014
Mostly straightforward. At the roof, both of us did things a little differently. Instead of reaching left and climbing around, reach straight through the crack in the roof, and feel for the rail on the left hand side. Commit to it, and bring your right hand around for a rail on the right hand side.
Jul 9, 2013
Fun route! Had to take my helmet off in order to get my head past the roof.
Jan 30, 2013
Just climbed it today & there was no bird nest that I could see. Super fun.
Jun 20, 2012
Came to this route after 2 or 3 years of absence... can't believe that yellow (#2 BD?) cam is still stuck under the roof. I would have thought some super industrious college student would have gotten that out by now.
Jun 14, 2012
Good fun! Good pro! Good good!
Aug 14, 2011
I wouldn't want to lead this, as I didn't notice any pro placements after you turn the roof. Plenty of pro after you turn the roof, don't hesitate to lead this one. Wasn't even runout at all.
Apr 9, 2008
Led this enjoyable route for first time on beautiful fall day, yesterday. This climb did not feel like a 5.8 to me - got stung by a bee as soon as pulled over the roof, so maybe this adds a half grade of difficulty! Roof is a fun little puzzle & easily protectable. There are two nut placements in the crack directly above the roof and at least one hex left and above if you look around for it.
Nov 22, 2006
I just did this yesterday. Didn't feel quite like 5.8 but still super fun. However, I wouldn't want to lead this, as I didn't notice any pro placements after you turn the roof.
Jun 8, 2005
What a great challenge for the Gym climber gone outside. I took a few gym climbers up today and found ourselves (among many others) with a great end of the day climb. The roof could be rated greater than an 8 if you were to heel hook to the right, however, I found it much more enjoyable to navigate the corner with a smooth crawl up the opposing face while grasping the great hold just above the roof. The slab directly above the roof is really thin for slab... just the way we like it. Jeff Burley
Apr 6, 2002
When reaching the roof, place that piece at the lip and then reach up and right over the roof to find the nice jug waiting for you a little hard to spot from the ground and on the lead, but once you find it, the climbing eases for sure. A nice line. (What's with the piton about 2 feet from the top? Weird spot as there are plenty of spots there for good gear? Huh.
Nov 14, 2001
- Twofers Bypass
A #1 or 2 Camalot works well in the hand crack under the roof. The step around seemed pretty thin as far as the feet go. After that, I sewed up the rest with Aliens (blue through red). The trees at the top make good anchors. Use them gently.
Nov 19, 2006
A nice variation to this fairly easy climb is to start just right on the slab make your way up to a ledge and traverse left just under the underhang of Twofers. If you do this variation, I give it a nice 5.8. Following the gully all the way up... 5.7. Ciao'
Jun 2, 2006
- Twofers Gully
Really cool. Tons of gear and interesting moves.
Aug 23, 2009
I'm pretty sure this is right of the Twofers roof. A good place to practice placing trad gear.
Mar 15, 2008
If this is the big gully mentioned in Rossiter's guidebook, I remember it being to the right of Twofers (looking up at the wall), and to the left of The Big Split.
Mar 2, 2008
- Hideout, The
- Brat Slamet
The name of this route is Brat Slamet (not Slamit). I cleaned, bolted, & led the climb with a hang. F.A.: (5.12 A0) in April 2001. F.F.A.: Henry Lester on March 15, 2003. I belayed Henry, my friend & longtime climbing partner, on this desperate thin, shallow seam. It tweeked my right hand ring finger tendon badly. I was forced to stay on jugs for a couple months to heal it. I returned on January 10 2004 to finally redpoint it. We rated it .12c. It definitely earns its grade. I have ignored Taylor Roy's slightly inaccurate, incomplete posting of this route for 9 years. The information can be found in my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II" (2005). There was a time when more climbers got there info from guidebooks & this website didn't have much credibility. Times have changed, so has the great climber that this route was jokingly named after. His editorials used to slam much on the sport climbing in this canyon. I figured if he saw this route, he would say it should be a highball boulder problem, done with a good pad. I don't believe anyone has done it this way. It is a short route with a bit of narrow flat spot at the base. A 30 meter (100 ft.) long rope is more than long enough to descend.
Jun 8, 2015
- Claim Jumper
First ascent date was February 28, 2004. Some interesting climbing. Harder than it looks.
Jul 16, 2017
- Corporate Citizen
- Freedom Fried
If you go straight up at the crux, I think it's more like 11b/c!
Feb 27, 2016
Like most of the routes at the Hideout, this is my route established in March 2003. The reason the 2nd and 3rd bolts are right of where you climb is for good reasons. First, placing these bolts left of the tiny arete & corner would mean putting them in a hollow flake. Secondly, putting the bolts to the left would encourage climbers to stem to the dirty corner & ledge to the left rather than stay on the face & lieback up the flake. It is also possible to climb this section on the arete next to the bolts. The way I usually climb the line is to move straight up to a good jug & clip 2nd bolt & then reach left to the flake. Lieback up the flake and then reach back right to clip 3rd bolt. It is easy to clip & I have never noticed any problem with the draws scraping over the arete. Having these two bolts here also makes for a cleaner fall, as you swing away from the ledge below. As for calling it PG-13, I struggle to think it deserves a seriousness grade, but if 5.11 is at or above your limit, perhaps it could fuck with your head. It is not dangerous.
Jan 28, 2013
- Gray Hares
- Grubstake
First ascent: Mark Rolofson & Vaino Kodas on February 10, 2004. 2003 date in my guidebook is a typo error. I have never thought of this route as contrived, even though it would be possible to continue climbing up right on the diagonal crack. This would be a different route, require gear & end at a different spot. After clipping the 2nd bolt above the ledge (4 bolt on the climb), I bust out left & ascend the face. Fun climbing on good rock. There are 6 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.
Jul 16, 2017
- Harrassment
This is my favorite route at the Hideout. Even though it is not as classic a 5.12 as Plan B & Hot Wire on Security Risk, or Global Gorilla at Animal World, Harassment climbs a very striking, vertical arete. The bottom half of the route climbs a face that starts out easy & then turns to .12a moves above 3rd bolt. The business is a desperate face crux at 5th bolt. From a tips lieback hold in a tiny, right-facing corner, reach tiny edges and dyno to a jug. This is technical with small edges for the feet. It is also possible to traverse right, which is slightly easier (.12b) but not as cool. Then gain a rest on a shelf on the right side of the arete. Move left, at 7th bolt, to ascend the left side of arete for an exciting, committing finish. Clip the last bolt when your hand are above it on the sloping shelf below the anchor.
Jan 28, 2013
- Holdup, The
Thanks Peter. I would also like to thank Mark Rolofson for cleaning, and equipping this route. Without him, many of the routes in Boulder Canyon wouldn't exist.
Apr 29, 2008
Good job Taylor, I worked on this route for quite a while but the crux holds always felt a bit too far apart. The grade seems very solid and probably harder if you're much shorter than 5'5".
Apr 27, 2008
- Liberty Dipped
- Playing Shark With Chrissy
The name was inspired by a friend's childhood memories of playing in the pool with a girl named Chrissy. Apparently, he was a very naughty shark. We went up to this route thinking it would be much harder. Ben quickly unlocked the moves but didn't think he was very close to doing the route. So, he let me try it, and after breaking a foot and falling on my first attempt, I sent it second go. Ben did it quickly after me. A little awkward, and short lived, but really fun.
Oct 14, 2007
- Schlock and Vice
- Sick Diley
- Usual Suspects, The
- High Energy Crag
- Diet of Worms
Harder than 5.10a. 10b or 10c to onsight it. Apparently both my partner and I missed a key hold and "burly-d" through the crux, finding it later. No less, the climb is difficult. Fun too, but too short to be a destination climb. Under the roof there are 2 flakes the inner flake seems socketed in pretty well, but the outer one, and one which is tempting to put gear in behind is dicey at best. Beware!
Jul 18, 2005
I took a shot at Diet when I was I pretty good 5.9 trad leader, and was stumped, pumped, and felt like I had just been...jumped. Mentioned my difficulties to some fella, what was his name, oh yes Dan Hare, whomI guess some of you might have heard of, he said not to worry about my difficulties, that when he did Diet he thought it might be 5.11a, maybe harder? Must mention Star Span, 5.11c, as the main attraction here, though I have not yet tried it, maybe next week!
May 16, 2003
- Imp-Passible Crack
Probably a little stiff for 11b, but might have seemed easier if I had taped up. I am writing this with holes in my hands from jamming the crystals in the crack over the roof. Fun regardless. Would be 3 stars if it was a 100' pitch, but it isn't. A single set of cams from 0.5" to 3.5" are the pro, and I used a few med/large nuts for a bomber directional before starting the roof. The second may encounter some issues if they plan to hangdog- I would imagine that they might end up pretty low after a fall, particularly with any slings on the pro below the roof. As well, like the roof on Vertigo in Eldo, the rope gets sucked into the crack and maybe into the gear. Be mindful and consider taking a hex for a "bearing" placing it sideways out at the edge of the roof to keep the rope out. Set a 2.5" cam above for a directional, then belay up and at climber's right on a big sling around a boulder and a large solid tree.
Jul 18, 2005
- Neutron Star
- Higher Energy Crag
- Blood Whine
The low crux is a single power sequence. Maybe 10+/11-. Not sure. The start also need not be as for Red Bull, you can do the slab left of that lone bolt for some new territory, and it's not too hard or unsafe. The arete up top has cool moves- look for camouflaged holds instead of getting sucked too far off to the right.
Nov 16, 2006
- Full Throttle
A good climb for the short distance it covers. As well, I did it "belly to the bolts," but a different sequence than was done for the FA. I found it to be perhaps 5.11c and more gymnastic/powerful. Gear: The bolt below the potential gear placement is only at your knees when you reach the next one, so no gear is needed. Why hold on to crux holds for so long when big jugs and a clip are coming? I placed one to see how it was, but not until I was at the last clip anyway. Felt like a little bit too much effort since the route is adequately bolted for a safe ascent.
Nov 16, 2006
- Mike's Short Route
This felt harder than 5.9, but only for 2 meters. Then again, we did it in sub-freezing temperatures at sunrise. I suspect it might be easier for smaller people, and Mike is a Hobbit, so I can see where he is coming from.... Climb the easy slab with a hand crack in the corner, put in overhead gear (larger) then pull into a lieback and some grunting for a body length. A #5 Camalot is at the knees for a crux exit, but there is some suspect rock around, so be attentive to place it carefully. I think this would be a very hard and potentially dangerous for a 5.9 leader. To belay, walk back 5m from the top and sling a few big rocks. If only the climb were taller than 25', it would get more stars and respect. Post script edit: Mike has admitted that the assigned grade was a sandbag and was assigned because this is the 'traditional offwidth sandbag grade.'
Apr 6, 2006
- Red Bull
No gear needed. The placement comes with a bolt at your knees and easy moves after it. The route is perhaps 50-60 feet, but has a big ledge in the middle So it feels like a 15 foot slab to a 30 foot climb, with some messing around on a ramp between. In the end, if felt like a very short route. But it was OK, if you don't mind short routes. Climbing the seam/flake to the right of the bolts would go on TR or with an added bolt, but be very hard (V6+). I partially brushed this, but didn't do the last move. Maybe more cleaning would fix it.
Nov 16, 2006
- Twisted Chopper
A mostly easy route until the crux up high. Was still a little crumbly, and I pulled a lot of chips off of it. When you hit the top crack, go up, not right. 5.9. Crux pro is a good small Alien and a so-so small stopper.
Nov 16, 2006
- Hillbilly Rocks
- Hillbilly Rock 1
- Boy Howdy
A locker might be advisable on the first draw, because the awkward first crux means that falls may happen on that single bolt. Best to have it clipped in well.
Jul 13, 2010
Nice climb. The crux getting to bolt 2 can be a bit of a stretch for the short. I got my left hand on a crimp, got my feet high, and reached way up for the pocket directly to the left of bolt 2. From there, it is a balancy move up and right before clipping 3. At the top, go a little left when going over the upper ledge.
Sep 21, 2008
- Dirt Shower
- Hoo-doggy
We enjoyed this route most of the 5 routes we did at Hillbilly 1. It's quite airy as you traverse right with your feet either on the prow or aretes or the lip of a roof.
Aug 14, 2011
- I Reckon
Hard for the grade.
Oct 28, 2016
Having done this route both ways (i.e. following the bolt line up and left, going straight up/slightly right) here are a few comments: The left version felt way hard for 12a, particularly considering that the FA party generally grades things pretty friendly. I don't know if the heat/humidity had something to do with it, but there are some brutally smooth holds up there. Clipping the bolt was a bitch. I would probably call this way 12b or so, definitely as hard or harder than any 12b I have done yet this year. The right version is easier, but there is some mud and vegetation to contend with. Also, the bolt ends up being way out left and hard to clip. Between the poison ivy choked approach, length of the route, etc., this is probably a half star route. Not the worst route in Boulder Canyon but probably not worth the hike.
Jul 3, 2013
This is a nice, short 12 that makes the walk up worthwhile. Rolofson shows three 12 cruxes (12a, 12b, and 12a), but I don't agree with this assessment. Clipping the first two bolts is much easier than 12. From there, reach up and left to the sidepull. This is the crux section, but is easy 12, not mid-12. A key hold is a crimper ledge above and right of bolt three; don't mess around with the slopey stuff left of 3. Another cruxy move follows to get to bolt 4.
Sep 21, 2008
- I'll be Dipped
This was way harder than Square Dance just to the right, although it looked easier. I did my occasional sport fist jam to get past the final ceiling.
Aug 14, 2011
I thought all of these climbs were a bit strange. This climb seemed to be the most direct
Jan 17, 2009
This is probably the best of the three routes on the right side of the crag.
Jul 17, 2004
- Like Water for Bob
I thought this was more difficult than I'll Be Dipped. The holds are big, but the moves require lots of power.
Jan 3, 2014
Powerful and reachy but all big holds with good rests. Easier for me than I'll be Dipped.
Aug 14, 2011
The crux didn't seem dangerous at all. After bolt 2, reach up and left. This is the crux, and it is right above the bolt. The next moves to the bolt are juggy. There doesn't seem to be any groundfall potential so I wouldn't be worried about leading it if you are pushing the grade.
Sep 21, 2008
The Rolofson guidebook calls this PG-13 between the second and third bolt. After a move just above the bolt, you get good holds to clip the third bolt. You can even get a red Black Diamond C3 in a crack a couple feet above the bolt if you want it. Good route that is worth doing so be careful, but don't let the PG-13 rating keep you from doing the route.
Feb 16, 2008
One of of the key crux holds (towards the left) stays wet late into the morning after an overnight rain. Thankfully, the hold is so big that the water isn't a significant issue.
Jul 17, 2004
- Square Dance
The bottom bolt is missing its hanger.
Mar 29, 2014
- Hillbilly Rock 2
- Hillbilly Rock 3
- Huck's Fins aka Sun Dial Crag (submitted as Fin Land)
- Interloper Wall
- Cassandra Crossing
This route is a ton of fun! The approach is a short walk up a steep hill full of fallen trees and brush, and then are you're at the base of the climb. It's extremely well-protected, which is awesome, since after the first bolt it is steep and overhanging the whole way up. This is a must climb for anyone hanging around the Boulder Canyon area, it's just way too much fun to pass up.
Mar 25, 2012
- Island Rock
- Law of Physics Crag
- Bachar's Block
- Bachar Ladder, The
I'm confused by the description. Is the crack/"Yosemite Supreme" on or off? Is this problem a link-up?
Oct 24, 2010
4 stars means uber-classic right? For example, Turning Point V8 or Germ Free Adolescent V5 or Bierstadt V9/10 ... right?
Oct 14, 2009
- Deacon Blues
Where does this problem go from once you have the left hand crimp and right hand on the arete? The path of least resistance is traversing to the right around the arete. Traversing to the far left into the crack is next hardest. Climbing directly up is hard but contrived.
Oct 25, 2010
- Stone Master
I'm confused. Where does this line go? Here are my interpretations of the problems- vimeo.com/16156017
Oct 25, 2010
How is this named and graded if no one has sent it yet? Shouldn't that be left to the FA'er?
Oct 1, 2009
- Yosemite Supreme
Thanks for posting this problem. It is a nice one! It would be a good idea to brush the top-out before starting. It was very dirty when I did it on 10/24/10.
Oct 24, 2010
- Lion's Den
- Little Crag
- Belladonna
Dan Hare put this up free solo and first go back in the day. He told me it was one of the scarier moments of his life. Pretty proud considering how insecure the route is. Pretty cool, Dan!
Nov 25, 2015
- Nothing To Fear
- Short but Cute
- Smooth Operator
I led this climb twice in 1985. The first ascent & then months later, repeated it with Cindy Peiropan belaying me. There is actually a lot of protection, but most of it is tiny (#2 micro stoppers or RPs). The start is a very short, small right-facing corner with a #5 or #6 micro stopper, that protects the traverse right to the shallow thin seam ascending the steep slab. Marginal #2 RPs protect moves to the end of the seam. Here is a deep, thin slot where a #2 and/or #3 micro stopper can be keyholed in. In other words, place the nut the narrow way into the slot, and turn it around to the wide profile. A few feet above, a #4 micro stopper can be placed behind a fragile tiny flake before running it out to the ledge. Double ropes were used: one rope into the keyholed placement, the other rope into the flake. A fall or lower-off will distribute your weight onto both peices of gear more equally this way. The good news is the run-out gets easier the further you climb. Above the great rest ledge, the wall is vertical, but the pro is better (still several #2 RPs and a small tricam). Very exciting but not X rated. I rated it R/X. One other note is the line draw in Bob D'Antonio's Boulder Canyon Guide is incorrect. This route is not on the west face like the other routes. It is on the south face and was the only route on that face. Lastly, I did not place the bolt anchor on top. I believe John Payne added these years later.
Feb 2, 2015
- Loft, The
- Orange You Lichen It?
The route is very fun. The core muscles inside of my rib cage were sore for days after I TR'd it; however, I actually don't think that Cor and Wayne can tell the difference between 11- and 11+ sometimes.... I think it's harder!
May 9, 2012
Cor, The other 3 bolt route was put up by Bob Horan. 5.10 sounds about right. Not sure who he did this with. Steve S.
May 7, 2012
I Lichened it! Another great find HC. Worthwhile to tromp up the gully for these two fun lines.
May 7, 2012
There is another route on this wall to the left of orange you lichen it. The other climb (not sure who did it) goes up face with three bolts, then goes to trad out some small overhangs. At the top, there is a one bolt anchor. You can back it up with a cam, then scramble right to my anchors to descend, or walk off top. This climb is 5.10ish.
May 4, 2012
- Long Walk Rock
- Anoka Minnesota
I'm pretty sure that Litter Box is the short sport/mixed route that begins just around the corner to the left of Long Walk Crack. This is an undocumented line.
Jan 31, 2011
- Cat's Meow, The
- Free the Ostriches
Despite the meager height, it is a respectable OW pitch (at least by Boulder Canyon standards) for those seeking experience.
Jan 30, 2011
Bring tape. You pull pretty hard on a few fist-jams in some pretty coarse rock. Feels more like Vedauwoo than Boulder Canyon granite. A fun climb if you don't mind hiking a long way to do 30' routes. Single set of BD #1-#6 protects it well. Walk the 6 with you -- it's nice to have for a constriction in the upper section of the crack.
Jan 30, 2011
- L.A.T.E.
While the crack isn't that tall, the ground is sloping with lots of rocks so A.) gear is better than a pad and B.) who would ever drag a pad that far up there?
Oct 19, 2008
- Long Walk Crack
There are chains at the top that also serve a short sport/mixed climb (Litter Box 5.10a) that starts around the corner to the left of this route.
Jan 30, 2011
- Tiger Paw
- Lookout, The
- Armor Plated
First ascent: Mark Rolofson on August 26, 2004. I repeated the climb months to a year later. I haven't been back in over a decade, so I won't insist that the grade I gave it of 5.12b/c is correct. It definitely felt harder than Blue Flame or The Harder They Come. It is short, but I find it hard to believe this route is only 5.11 & not at least 5.12a/b.
Jul 16, 2017
Different, but certainly no harder than Blue Flame, IMO. I really thought no harder than 11c. Not trying to be a tough guy and downgrade a full number grade, but you reach from a jug to a decent sloper, lock in the bomber heelhook and reach to a decent to poor hold. Then bump to a jug. I warmed up on this route, and I legitimately had more difficulty on The Harder They Come than this thing. Perhaps it's a size thing. I'm tall (but overhangs and roofs are my biggest weakness), and I have fat fingers (so The Harder They Come was tough to get my tips in - but I'm also best at cracks). Regardless, I thought it was as fun as anything else at this wall even with all the sharing of common ground.
Jun 20, 2017
- Blue Flame
- Burnt Toast
I stick clipped the 1st bolt. There is an empty & probably partially drilled bolt hole at the start. I have always thought plugging it with a bolt would be wise. Especially considering that the climb starts on a ledge with a cliff below. Very cool climbing & one of the better routes on the wall.
Jul 16, 2017
- Dozer Rage
Rather amusing to think of bouldering this route with pads & spotters. Especially considering the consequences of rolling down the slab below & over a cliff, then down another hill & over the Bowling Alley. No thanks, I think I'll pass on that idea. That is why I bolted this route. Quite engaging climbing for a short route with the crux past the 3rd bolt, followed another hard move past the 4th bolt. The line really caught my attention years before I bolted it. It was worth the effort to send it. I originally rated it 5.12d/13a, but 5.12d is probably more accurate.
Jul 16, 2017
- Granby
Funny that you guys thought this route was worth two stars. I guess I should say thank you. I thought it barely deserved one star on a 5 star system. Interesting moves to start it & then its pretty easy to the anchor.
Jul 16, 2017
I did this cool route again, and it definitely feels 5.10ish. Definitely worth doing, but stretch first if it's your warm-up.
Sep 24, 2015
This is so short that it looks stupid, but it is actually really fun.
Sep 23, 2015
- Harder They Come, The
I personally think this route is as hard, if not harder, than Blue Flame. Might be the size of my fingers?
Jun 20, 2017
- Sweet Pea
- Lost Flatiron
- Arete
- North Face Left
Climbed this on 12/28 after playing around on Huston Crack. It took some effort to find the rock, and I wish I had read Tony's comment before being there -- the buttress that's directly downhill from the Lost Flatiron threw me off a little. I probably took a line that was a bit too far to the right of the arete, because it didn't feel like there were any moves even remotely approaching 5.7.
Jan 1, 2003
Definitely a one pitch route. I seem to remember that Rossiter's book says it's even three pitches long...now that's an overstatement if I've ever heard one! Pretty straight forward, no funny traverses that would cause rope drag or anything, so there really is no reason it shouldn't be done as one pitch, seeing as how it isn't even 200 feet. Oh yeah, the very bottom balance slab getting up on the face is the crux and didn"t feel any harder than five seven with the rest being five five or easier (forgive me my keyboard just fritzed and I can no longer type commas or numbers). Happy climbing!
Sep 27, 2002
Granted, the approach takes some time, and the descent is steep and messy. In addition, it seems less than 5.7, and I would say there really isn't a crux. However, I thought this was a terrific moderate climb with good pro and neat exposure. Also, the views to Blob and Eagle are excellent; it's a fine place to be on a sunny day. Although it can be done in one long pitch, two pitches keeps you in sight of your partner for the most part. I think this climb is well worth doing -- once.
Aug 13, 2002
If the rock seems crappy, then you are on the little buttress about 50 yards down the hill too far. Go up and around to get to the right rock. Take a single 60M rope and do it in a single nice pitch, as the route is less than 200 feet long. Rossiter's description of a crux at about 200 feet up would have to be correct. Anyone climbing over 200' on that rock is INCREDIBLE. Seriously, it is nice and it's probably easier than 5.7. It climbs and protects like a flatiron. Take a single 60M rope and do it in a single nice pitch.
Sep 27, 2001
- North Face Right
I did this as two short pitches. I was swarmed by ants at the first belay on this less than interesting route. No crowds though, that's for sure.
Sep 20, 2007
- Lost Rock
- Lower Boulder Falls
- Crocodile Smile
Cannot recommend this crag. Sketchy approach, lichen covered rock, and too many gawking tourists. One for the bolter canyon climber who's done it ALL.
Sep 5, 2006
Great route! Come strong. Extremely well protected.
Sep 27, 2004
- Doctor Patient
- Prodigal Summer
- Lower Dream Canyon
- Berlin Wall
- Blitzkreig
- Checkpoint Bravo
- Dachau
- East Germany
Really nice route.
Nov 24, 2008
I added a three-bolt direct start to this last week. Grade is still the same (12d/13a) despite all the noise from 2003. Anyway, the line is a lot more lineal now with no rope drag, and a fun/steep bouldery start up the pillar.
Oct 17, 2008
For the record, my position was and always had been only that the route was 12c or harder based on other Boulder Canyon ratings (excluding S.P.). I didn't know any more than that. My judgement once I get past 12c/d is just too spotty to have any meaning. Had AC or Duncan said 12c in the beginning, I would never have said a word. I just felt based on my Boulder Canyon experience, that 12b for EG was outta line with other Boulder Canyon ratings. The difference between b & c is pretty small, so maybe it wasn't worth quibbling over. The rock should speak for itself. I think that a significant thread that hasn't really been pulled out of this mess is exploring the question of "Are Boulder Canyon ratings seriously outta whack with the rest of the world and, if so, what should be done about it?" My philosophy on ratings has always been that ratings within an area should be consistent, but an alternate philosophy (that I think AC has) is that there is an absolute universal ratings scale that should be everywhere uniformly applied. That's a fine philosophy, but doesn't address the problem of what to do once a whole area deviates from the universal absolute. I'm guessing that AC's solution to that problem is to try to "fix" the ratings of certain routes to meet his understanding of this absolute standard, but that creates the new problem of inconsistency within the area. I don't have any good solution to this problem and thus I fall back to simply grading to be consistent with the published ratings within the area in question, in this case Boulder Canyon. Regarding quality: we rated EG two start out of three. That means pretty good, but not classic. We never said it was classic and that was never our position. I thought Interrogation was brilliant, that's why we gave it three stars. Dan did an outstanding job on that one and people should check it out.
Jun 28, 2003
This has certainly been entertaining and fun, but I think we all can agree it's starting to get old. Some final closing comments to hopefully bring this chapter to a close: Quality: EG is definitely not a classic, but a decent route worth doing if in the area. I agree with Duncan, my other two new routes (Fall of The Wall & Interrogation) on Berlin Wall are better. Protection: When bolting the route, I knew the well-protected crux would draw criticism. Actually, on the redpoint attempt, I didn't clip the last crux bolt until I was well past it. I agree, it's over bolted here and the top crux bolt should be removed. I'll do it when I get the chance. Glue: I hated to glue the block, but I was afraid that the block might come off and someone would get seriously hurt. I feel that safety is more important than ethics. Ratings: I honestly felt that the short EG crux was harder than the crux on Radlands (12d), which is of a similar genre: high-angle face. EG may well be mid 5.12, as AC firmly states. I just don't know anymore. Ratings are subjective, and AC is correct, everyone is entitled to an opinion. The Charlie Fowler quote sums it up best: ratings don't mean shit. Comments: It's easy to take things personally when one feels his/her achievements/contributions have been criticized, I apologize if any of my comments have offended anyone. Be safe, have fun, see you out there...
Jun 27, 2003
I exaggerated. There are 3 bolts not 4, protecting a body length of crux moves evidenced by your own photo. When I told you I onsighted, it was in passing, and I wanted to make my point fast and simple by saying, "there is no way I could onsight 13a." Honestly, I just blurted it out w/o thinking. I did not realize that I would have to own up to those words, or that anyone besides you and I would know I said them. I'm sorry this has been such a headache Bob, and I'm sorry I felt compelled to give you my honest opinion of the route. I liked the other routes a lot more. Sustained and interesting (never mind the rating). OK, I'm done w/ this too. It was briefly amuzing.
Jun 27, 2003
I think after reading Duncan's mis-characterizations of certain aspects of the route as well the false statements he previously made to me about his onsighting the route that no further purpose is served by me further participating in what has simply become some sort of pissing match. So I'm checking out here. Form your own opinions guys.
Jun 27, 2003
Not that I am about to go get on this route, but I [looked at the] 3rd picture and though to myself- Hmmm... a X'd flake hanging there- looks like a death block. So if one were to spend the time rap bolting this thing, and putting epoxy into it to hold on the key holds, wouldn't it have been proper to clear the deck below and get rid of the death block? This is something I wondered [about] for Free Willie at Animal world too, though there I am sure the concern was that it'd bomb the road after smashing down through the Boulderado. What is the normal and accepted ethic in the sport arena that sort of concern not-withstanding? Is extensive gluing really that widely accepted? It bumbed me to see it on Empire Of the Fenceless- since the climb would go without that glue-reinforeced hold just the same. Again, I acknowedge that I have not been on this route, so my questions are rhetorical, but since both FA-ists are obviously reading, please share your thoughts...
Jun 27, 2003
AC onsighted... it was moderatley impressive :) I got it second try, despite my enormous reach, it was still hard(12b). I agree with ac too, that local routes like evictor, hairstyles, your mother are all way harder than this one. Even more local, Grand Inquisitor(12a), frogman pinnacle(12b/c), the arete at animal world.... So big deal, it's overrated. Now let's talk route quality... crux moves are cool! That's about all of 6 feet with 4 bolts to clip. The rest of the route is nothing to write home about, not to mention the gallons of glue it took to hold the sucker together. With so much wonderful climbing in boulder, this route doesn't even show up as a blip on the classic radar screen. No offense Bob.
Jun 27, 2003
Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. My opinion is 12b, you guys can rate E.G. anything you want. What's the big deal? Sometimes a subtle variation in beta (especial on a slab) can make a hugh difference. My sequence was 12b! E.G. felt easier than Camouflage, Genesis, The Evictor, Power Bulge, Animal Instinct, Hairstyles, Pretty Hate Machine, Big Sky Corner and Mystery Arete. That is why I think it is 12b. If you want to do a 13a check out Bed Hog, Buddha Belly or The Rainbow Wall.
Jun 27, 2003
East Germany (EG), being a new climb, has only seen a few ascents, thus a consensus rating hasn't emerged. Based on my experience, I think the face crux, albeit short, and very well-protected is a technical 12d/13a. Both Jim Redo and Vaino Kodas (credible Boulder climbers) feel E.G. merits a 12d rating. 12b seems way off, AC, but in the realm of things, what's important is that it's a fun route on beautiful granite.
Jun 26, 2003
Hey AC (Pat Adams or Duncan Burke), you're welcome to your opinion, yet we beg to differ. 12b is outside the range we think is possible for East Germany. Take ''Plan B'', as consensus a 12b as there is in Boulder Canyon. Saying EG is the same grade as Plam B is not credible, the very first time I got on Plan B, I did every move on it (but didn't redpoint it that time). Compare this to EG which took something like 10-15 tries before I did every move on it (and I think I'm climbing better now than when I got on Plan B the first time several years ago). While EG may well not be 13a (since I don't have the exeperience at that grade level to be sure), neither is it 12b. If you (AC) are Duncan, then please note that your height would pretty much let you reach past the hard parts of the crux whereas those of us of shorter stature don't have that advantage. If you (AC) are Pat Adams, then you climb at a much harder level than the rest of us and maybe are not as good a judge of easy to mid 12 grades in the canyon, which is the range where most of my accents are. So I think I know 12b. EG is not 12b in my opinion. A more productive discussion would be possible if you identify yourself and your background and credentials would then be clear to all of us. Having someone like Duncan come up behind me in Mountain Sports and say ''12b'' is not exactly the way to start a conversation about such a topic as the consensus grade of this route.
Jun 26, 2003
Not exactly the great escape but a fine 12b. E.G. is difinitely not 13a. The short crux is easier than any consensus 12c. Watch the z-clip!
Jun 26, 2003
Quality rock climbing. I [recommend] this route and it's neighbor to the left "Fall of the Wall". Both are [probably] a letter grade over graded but so what. Get ready to pimp some little grips.
Jun 9, 2003
- Eastern Promises
Very challenging, a bit of choss down low, more crowbar....
Mar 17, 2012
Nice addition, fellas. Bouldery, interesting moves- difficult to figure out also. I agree a long draw on #5 is crucial. Quite a cool little hang out spot up there too- the yard chair is killer!
Nov 22, 2008
- Fall of the Wall
Fun route, choss mid-way, could use some crowbar action.
Mar 17, 2012
The 3rd and 4th bolt have been moved to better clipping positions (lower and slightly right). Additionally a 2 bolt extension has been added so the route now goes to the top of the wall.
Sep 5, 2008
There is a fixed rope to aid in getting up the gully if coming from Boulder Falls, it looked solid, so we used it to rappel back down the gully. Great route! Sustained.
Aug 1, 2003
We were originally gonna name this route "The Fall of the Berlin Wall", but that was approaching paragraph length so we shortened it to just "Fall of the Wall" Given the current Boulder Falls trail closure, note that it is possible to approach the Berlin Wall from the Dream Canyon parking lot and rap in. If you do so, please respect the private property near the parking lot and stay well away from the cabin that's located there. Also, at the top of the Berlin Wall be aware that there is lots of loose rocks and knocking any of it off could nail someone below you. Hope you enjoy this route and it neighbor, East Germany 13a. :-)
Apr 30, 2003
- Interrogation
The top crux seemed contrived. The hard right out of the seam didn't make sense as leaving the seam is very difficult and exits the natural weakness that continues straight up. Good route though.
Mar 10, 2014
One of the best sport routes I have done in Boulder Canyon. Watch out for a large loose vertical flake near the bolt before the anchor.
Feb 8, 2009
Great route, give Dan credit for finding this hidden gem!
Sep 9, 2008
Hint: You can rap into the anchors for this route from above and hang draws on it. This also shortens the approach a lot. Park at the Dream Canyon parking lot and head left and down the hill, avoiding the private property. There is a faint trail that you will find between the edge of the woods and the clearing, follow that thru a wooded gully formed by a spring (wet) and then follow the trail up a short hill. Keep following the trail past an old fire ring on your right, then look for a cairn on your right slightly down the hill from the fire ring (which was at the high point). From the cairn, head down the hill to the top of the Berlin Wall. You will find a modern two bolt rap anchor in the rock on your left. Beware the loose rock in this spot and the exposure, its a long ways down if you screw up. From the rap anchors, rap to the top of either Interrogation or East Germany. Either route is easily equipped by rapping from the anchors on the routes. In other words, once you rap down to the route anchors, clip in, pull your rope and rap again. 60m works for sure, don't know about a 50m. Its much easily to approach and climb this way than going up the yucky gully from Boulder Creek to the base of the Berlin Wall. Hope this helps
Aug 9, 2005
Wow, this is actually a really good route -- sustained, complex, and varied climbing good rock. A long approach, but a [somewhat] of a hidden gem -- tough crux clip aside....
Aug 8, 2005
- Irrigation
Perhaps the most logical and fun line of the three - skip the chossy start of Waterboarding and the contrived finish of Interrogation. It would be better with a bolt protecting the traverse.
Mar 10, 2014
- Walpurgisnacht
Nice work on the bolt replacement - when I was on this route early in the summer of 2008 the bolts were definitely old. Long long runout to the top - not knowing anything about the wall I traversed right to anchors over Fall of the Wall.
Aug 31, 2009
I rebolted this route today replacing the old, rusted hardware with modern hardware (Hilti SS KB 3s and Metolius SS hangers). This route is now the primary warm-up on the wall. Thanks to Roy Barnes for his assistance with the bolt removal and patching.
Sep 5, 2008
- Waterboarding
The bolt line is poor at the beginning, to far to the right. The logical line trends up the left side. The rock is pretty bad quality for half the climb. The climb is worth doing but be careful of the rock at the beginning.
Mar 10, 2014
- Bhakti Point, Summit Knob
- Chrome Dome
- Critic's Block
- Freedom Boulder
- Amendment, The
In my opinion, Freedom is a V9.
Mar 21, 2007
Great job, Dan. This is a fun and challenging line.
Sep 9, 2004
More specific beta for locating the boulder. On the hike up to the Plotinus Wall (Lower Boulder Falls), there's a sizeable boulder at the base of the talus, just west of the creek with an obvious cave, facing south. Start in the middle of the roof and slap the lip, struggle over. For the V11 start, use Dan's directions.
Sep 3, 2004
Exactly. It is facing the river.
Aug 30, 2004
Hey Dan, this sounds cool. I'm assuming it's on the west side of the river uphill from the falls?
Aug 27, 2004
- Freedom
There's an awesome V7 variation that starts with your right hand on the crimp and your left hand and foot on the lip. Super core intensive but an amazing problem.
Feb 10, 2009
- Right via Freedom, The
- Right, The
- Underground Railroad, The
- Krishna & Serenity Spire
- Adam's Arete
To khoa's comment - as of a couple days ago, THIS route is fully bolted (based off the picture shown), but the one up the hill 20 or 30 ft does only have 2 bolts and the anchors are set pretty far back. There is also a route 20 or 30 feet downhill that has a single bolt, and I assume the rest is trad.
Mar 6, 2017
Currently all bolts are there with lowering anchors. Great pitch!
Sep 4, 2014
Climbed this yesterday, and I only saw 2 bolts (out of a supposed 5?), and the anchors don't have rings, so you have to clean and walk off. You can definitely deck towards the top, because your last bolt is around the arete before you pull over onto the left side. So, please be careful if doing this route.
Jun 27, 2012
Climbed it yesterday. It is a fantastic route. The holds at the top make you want to cheat left off the arete....
May 4, 2011
Saw this post recently and not sure what's being said here. It has been a while since I've climbed these routes. BD's book perhaps has the line drawn (#2) a little right, more like North Face Route, a 5.12 top-rope we did during that period of time. Easily deciphered though. I am hoping the bolts on Bobby's Wall have not been chopped. I'll go check it out at some point. Have had a lot of good feed back from people who have really enjoyed these routes over the years. Such a nice, isolated spot.
Feb 10, 2011
Bob D'Antonio's new guide shows the line in the wrong spot. There is a line going up where Bob's book indicates, but it is not worth climbing. Most of the bolts on the line to the right of Adam's Arete has been removed.
Sep 20, 2010
- Black Pool
A one-pitch sport route that feels like an alpine adventure route. This is a good time of year to climb this because it starts right out of the creek and the water level is very low now. There is a 5 ft waterfall a few feet away adding to the atmosphere. Still lots of lichen on the upper slab. If you are looking for something a little different than the average Boulder Canyon route, this is it. 3 stars for the adventure factor, although the climbing itself is only 2 stars.
Oct 11, 2007
- Black Pool Variation
- Bobby's Wall
By far one of the best climbs in Dream Canyon. Consistent climbing with classic layback moves out of the start. A little sustained, solid 5.10 climbing.
Jun 28, 2016
I could only identify one bolt remaining on this climb if I have the location correct. The remaining bolt is way down low below a short crack/flake section.
May 17, 2013
- Cesspool
- Coug, The
- Diving For Kipper Snacks
- Eat My Lichen
- Full Circle
- Higher Rites
Great climb and a pumpy warm-up for the Berlin Wall, but I am disturbed and disappointed by the bolts that are not 3/8" wedge bolts, like the bolts on "Vishnu", but 5/16" bolts with a 1/2" nut. My guess is that these are not wedge bolts, but externally threaded 3/8" diameter sleeve bolts. If you are going to use this type of bolt, I think is best to use the 1/2" diameter ones (a 1/2" sleeve and a 3/8" diameter bolt). If they are wedge bolts, then that's really lame and dangerously weak. If I am going to drill 3/8" diameter holes, I use a 3/8" Hilti or Fixe stainless steel wedge bolt. I usually prefer to place Powers (1/2" diameter X 2-3/4") 5 piece sleeve bolts. They stay tight unlike bolts with a nut on the end and are very strong. I stopped using the 3/8" diameter 5 piece bolts in 1995. The 5/16" bolt used in these sleeve anchors is fairly easy to break from overtightening. Once placed, they seem to work fine, but they are not as strong as the 1/2" diameter sleeve anchor with a 3/8" diameter bolt. It is very, very rare to hear about one of these 1/2" diameter sleeve bolts breaking from being tightened with a 8" or 9" wrench.
Apr 8, 2013
We went up to do Vishnu and noticed this new route. This route is a junior version of routes on the Red Wall at Devil's Head. Excellent incut holds on a slightly overhanging wall. Great position. The top still has lichen and the holds are a little grainy, but it doesn't distract from this fine route. Excellent find guys. The knife-edge arete to the left looks wild (Pranja?), but there are some scary-looking flakes on it. Anybody done it? This route and Vishnu are located on an exposed pedestal in one of the most scenic spots in the Boulder Canyon/Dream Canyon area. N Boulder Creek makes a big bend here so you can see up and down Dream Canyon as well as up Boulder Canyon towards the Narrows.
Aug 1, 2008
- Vishnu
- Krishna West
- Nickel Dome
- Bob the Builder
Great name for those of us with pre-school kids! DINKS remain clueless.
Jul 26, 2002
- Engineering Marvel
- Eye Opener
- King Slopers
- Oversleeping
Every single 5.10 on Plotinus Wall is better than this one, so adjust your star system accordingly. Burly, dirty laybacking down low and a single move at the top that is way harder than 10a make the grade a bit suspect also.
May 19, 2003
- Pin Dome
- Big Sky Arete
Thank you to whoever cleaned my draws off this route and stashed them at the base of the climb. We only left my draws on the route since there was a rockfall incident resulting with a rock hitting me in the head and injuring me (fortunately not too seriously - blood running down my neck and stuff from the wound, but a CAT scan at BCH showed no internal damage). Wearing helmets while belaying is probably not a bad idea. We recovered the draws this morning, thinking at first that someone had swiped them since they were no longer on the route. Fortunately, I could not quite believe that someone had swiped my gear, so I looked in the nooks in the rocks at the base of the route for my gear and lo and behold it was there. :-) Was it one of the Jim's who cleaned and stashed the gear for me? Thanks guys. :-) Bob PS - This coulda been a lot worse, but I ducked into the corner and the big rock missed me after flying 60 feet, it was the 'little one' (bigger than a potato) that got me. :-(
May 29, 2005
- Big Sky Corner
Somewhat obscure, this really is an excellent pitch. The upper, business portion of the route stays on you right to the chains. A little flexibility would go a long ways.
Apr 13, 2015
Mega-classic and technical; maybe the best route at the grade in Bo-Can. Kudos to Vaino and Bob...
May 25, 2005
Smoky - I would recommend a smearing shoe and flexibility! The route is North-West facing so it never really gets into the sun, at least not this time of year (January). The bottom of BSC is a pile but the upper corner is cool / problematic / artful.
Jan 6, 2003
- Mine All Mine
Devious, yes. It's a little short, but worth doing if you happen to be in the area. The first half seems to be height-dependent. My partner (5'10"), who is a much better climber than I am, struggled a bit getting established on each of the two ledges. I was able to reach big holds and pulled up with little trouble (6'3"), especially on the first ledge. The arete is superb. Like many single pitch clip-ups, if it only went on for another 100 feet....
Aug 26, 2007
Is this that new sport route on "Chrome Dome"? Directions sound about right, though we crossed the creek via a log next to the falls, not too bad, but potentially fatal? (may 25, 2003) fun fun route, mantle, jam, crimp, roof, smear, arete... if you don't feel comfortable skipping the first bolt, maybe you should come back when you are a little stronger/more experienced.
May 29, 2003
I climbed this route again yesterday, and was reminded that you might have to hit it just right for it to feel 10a.
May 19, 2003
- Sweetest Taboo
- Plotinus Wall
- Left Side
- Art of Dreaming, The
The original rating of this climb was .12c. I have redpointed it twice, first in 2003 & then returned in 2014 to redpoint it again. Neither time did it feel easy. It is harder than Lucky Strikes, which I repeated on the same day in 2014 that I repeated Art Of Dreaming. Art Of Dreaming is very technical with a difficult, committing clip to the 3rd bolt. I suggest hanging a medium & a long Petzl draw on the 4th bolt to clip early before the crux moves. A fall onto the 3rd bolt can land you very close to a ledge below the route.
Apr 10, 2016
I wasn't that impressed with this route, given the hype I had heard about it. Lacks an independent start, crumbly/flaky rock for the feet during the crux, the bolts through the crux are located to make the clips as awkward as possible, greasy unpleasant climbing, lowering and retrieving the draws is a pain, etc. Definitely glad to not have to do this one again. Hard to grade as the crux is just greasy. Probably 12a during cool dry conditions but really gropy when warm and humid. The roof probably isn't even 11a (not sure how it gets described as 12a, the holds are huge and the feet are good). Mostly easy filler climbing above, which is ironically probably the best part.
Aug 13, 2012
Did this route on Sunday. If you can get to the rest, the upper section is easy. At 5'7" (8") on a good day, height initially felt like a factor however, I sent the route on my second try. In contrast, I have had to work (4-8 attemps) several 12b's and 12c's outside of Boulder Canyon.
May 24, 2004
Surprisingly good. The route climbs much better than it looks. The crux is height /reach related, which may explain the differing opinions on the grade. For my size 5'8" & 0 A.I. it's 12b to the rest, followed by a fun 11a/b roof and a romp to the anchors.
Feb 16, 2004
I'd second ac's assessment of the route's high-quality and 12a rating.
Apr 19, 2003
12a, you're joking A.C. The traverse after the third bolt and getting to the good holds under the roof is highly technical and merits a solid 12 b/c rating. The roof is 12a, and above is very easy. Anyway, I agree it's a great climb, especially now that it's cleaner due to the some climbing traffic.
Dec 18, 2002
Interesting climbing for the first four bolts. Getting past the second bolt is a bit snappy. Moving right might be reachy for some people. A gem at 12a. Keep up the good work.
Dec 18, 2002
- Bedtime Story
Gear is really not needed for the belay. Simply clip the first bolt with a long piece of webbing for your belayer. On a breezy day, there is no wind in the gully, which makes for a very pleasant belay with an alpine feel to it.
Apr 3, 2008
A fun route. If you brought gear it is best to belay on the ledge behind the gully. If you did not bring gear this is not an option as a fall would pull the belayer off and into the gully.
Apr 20, 2007
I agree with Roger on this one. The gully is a pain, but it is a nice route. I found the crux to be getting to the third bolt. Maybe I missed something (or I'm short), but I ended up clipping off a crimp. This is a route where it is better to bring your second up. The view is great! It was much nicer to belay from the large ledge, rather than lowering and belaying in the gully
Oct 29, 2003
- Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled
Personally I think this route barely tips the scale at 5.12. A hard entrance move leads to easier climbing and then probably mid-11 climbing on Bobsled. More like 5.12a as the entrance moves are barely V4, but, nonetheless, this climb is good with a weird finish on Bobsled.
Apr 28, 2013
Rolofson lists this start as War Sled, and escaping the line even higher as Freedom Sled. His description of the full War on Freedom mentions stemming out to the holds on Bobsled, but I've been trying to stay the line. Edit: I finally unlocked the stopper move and know the line will go without any use of Bobsled holds. It's an intense high step/rock up move off the slopey crimp to the high sidepull seam. Now I just gotta put it all together on lead!
Aug 14, 2008
So, this now continues on its own independent line to the anchor above Lucky strikes for a 5.13 "War on Freedom"?
Jul 9, 2008
- Bobsled, The
The righthand sidepull that Stephen (above) speaks of is definitely loose and about to go. Though thankfully there exists a sidepull slightly lower and to the left of said loose sidepull. Certainly makes the crux (which I thought was between bolts 1 and 2) a bit more reach and difficult but still doable. I normally wouldn't rate sport climbs of this nature PG13, or R for that matter, but this one warrants the PG-13 rating. First of all, the moves between bolts 1 and 2 are now considerably more difficult and above a) a large protruding boulder that could potentially injure the wary or fledgling 5.11+ leader, and b) you might receive a pinewood enema from a abnormally sharp branch located on the tree directly behind you when pulling crux moves. Other than that, this route is pretty good and can be combined with "Art of Dreaming's" roof pull for an interesting and more physical alternative than the OG Bobsled finish up the dihedral... let's call it "The Art of Bobsledding."
Apr 28, 2013
Interesting route. the crux is, well, setting up for the crux. Luckily you can easily get back down to the ledge to try another setup. I thought the bolt could have been placed a bit higher. It was a little spooky with the potential of swinging into the ledge/corner. The upper part is a lot of fun with nice rock.
Jul 18, 2012
Great route with two distinct cruxes! Don't miss the right hand sidepull for the lower crux! The second clip was not a problem, maybe I got lucky.
Sep 14, 2003
Best of the 5 routes I did at Plotinus.
Sep 2, 2003
I thought the crux was pulling up around the small roof, near the forth bolt. The moves by the first bolt are a little tough to figure out, but not that hard to execute. A little awkward getting to the anchors.
Jul 21, 2003
Nice route, overall. It has a few 5.11 cruxes with entertainment between. The first bit was fairly clean, but if I were to go back to it, I'd probably spend a little time cleaning it with my fingers, particularly the crystalline granite band by the feet by the first 3 bolts.I found that the sequence was a little something to figure out, but not much to execute. Transitioning into the undercling was tough until I backed down and found the right hands to start from. As well, moving to the second bolt was no prob with the right sequence, which requires either height or flexibility. I got a nearly-hands-free sequence between the two bolts with a great toe-hook/toe lock up and left in a "crotch" of the dihedral. Good fun and interesting moves. Mind puzzle not physical problem. Depends on the sequence and upon your height. It's tricky and so I suspect a lot of people will not find the easiest way on-sight. I did see one very good climber trying to figure it out before resorting to aid this AM.
Jul 11, 2003
I, too, would recommend stick clipping the second bolt. Very nice route. Tom Isaacson
Jul 3, 2003
I would concur that Bobsled is a bit soft for 12a, however, there is a reach problem passing the first clip that would be very hard if one lacked the ape index or were simply too short. This reflects the primary reason that it is difficult to assign an intrinsically optimal grade to a climb; the subjectivity of the rating can depend so much on exactly how one's own body "fits" the climb. I'm reminded of watching various of the hard core working The Seven PM Show in Rifle where a particularly wide pinch-grip would fit the big bear claws but a small pair of mits could never pop a thumb over the edge of the pinch. So for those with smaller hands the problem was essentially not doable. In the same vein, the reach from the start on Bobsled could be 5.12 for some and 5.11 for others. Overall, Bobsled seemed to offer interesting climbing with very brief cruxes followed by good, no hands, rest stances on solid rock that was well bolted.
Jan 29, 2003
This route felt like 11b not 12a! Fun climbing in the right facing corner. Great route to do on a warm sunny Winter day.
Dec 16, 2002
What a great route! I attempted the route with the draws already on it and the second bolt clipped so I know all you anonymous cowards will diss the send but I got the flash. I can't wait to go back to do some more of the routes on the wall. I also attempted the 11b to the left of the Bobsled, but it was a hard warm up and will have to go next time. Both were a lot of fun. Thanks for the new routes.
Nov 24, 2002
- Caffeine Buzz
I think the best option for a warm-up on this wall is to link Smell the Coffe with Cafeine Buzz. It's a super 160ish foot pitch. As far as getting off, I think lowering the second to the ground from the top would make the process pretty simple.
May 8, 2007
Best done as one long pitch, continuing from Smell The Coffee or The Daily Grind, thus avoiding a hanging belay. Good face climbing past the third and fourth bolts; the loose-looking flakes on the left are easily avoided. The rappel to Napster leaves you at a small stance at the anchor; cramped for two people.The second person down can wait on the ledge just above the Napster anchor until the first person has rapped to the ground.
Jul 27, 2004
I think "Standard Route" on the Elephant Buttresses is a harder route than this one, and I am really sure that the "Owl" on the Dome is not only way better but technically more difficult. I did not find much redeeming value in this thing.
Jan 10, 2004
Not knowing what this was we did this as 1 pitch as a continuation of Daily Grind. Nice enough. Didn't seem particularly loose. A good pitch for a weak second to lead if he/she can't lead the easy 10s at Plotinus (which are very easy as 10s go). To see how soft many of the ratings are at this crag, do this climb and then do Cozyhang, a classic 7 trad on The Dome (which was rated 5.5 way back!). After Cozyhang you might conclude that Caffeine Buzz is 5.5.
Jan 3, 2004
- Chore Boy
The crux section difficulty is definitely based on the climber's height. At 6'6" I would give the crux 10-. The hardest part for me as the tricky top out move to get to the anchors. The first time I led it with no gear. Not very wise. The second time I used a 0.5 and a 0.75 on the runout and felt much safer.
Mar 29, 2009
This and Snooze were the best pitches I've done at Plotinus. So at 5'7" I made a dynamic move at the point I think all you tall people are saying this climb would be hard if you are short. Bullocks! That reachy move is only hard if you are short and refuse to let go. Easy catch but I welcome exciting moves with a 1 foot fall potential. Yeah, very brave. As far as the rating I'll say 5.9 unless you are saying this is harder than Cosmosis 9+? It is hard for me to consider different ratings standards for different areas of Boulder Canyon. Maybe 10c in Sport Park. Okay, so maybe Cosmosis is just hard for me...but this climb was not. So you short people need not fear the spray of these tall guys with their huge positive ape indexes and go climb this route. Climb the Snooze to the left as well.
Nov 2, 2008
I racked up for this route with a slew of small-to-medium gear after reading these posts and it ended up being nothing but dead-weight. The "run-out" sections were always accompanied by easier climbing (and a nice new bolt) and I felt that to stop and fiddle with a placement would have been a waste of strength. That said, the event of a spontaneous fall (aren't they always spontaneous?) probably would have resulted in a rather unenjoyable ride down the feature-ridden face. The moral of the story: Bring gear if you like to feel safe, but whatever you do, get out and do this route. Dream Canyon is a very special place and is held very dear by those who visit. Many thanks to Bob D. and Vaino for their route-setting and effective bolt-placement. A final note: I chose to rap myself to avoid rope-drag on the edge of the headwall. I came all the way to my stopper-knots on a 60m rope.
Aug 21, 2007
This route is definitely harder than 5.10b for shorter climbers. Maybe it is 10b if you're over 6' but for me (5'7") the crux was desperate. The route to the left was a lot easier in my opinion.
Mar 18, 2007
At the lower crux, there is a little sidepull crimper you can use for left hand. It's my secret hold. It's about 6 ft left of the 4th bolt. I'm 5'11", and I can't reach that top hold. But using this crimper, you can work the feet up without barn-dooring and voila - reach the top holds, and you're done!
Oct 30, 2004
I agree on not needing gear. we hadn't read this site, of course. Being in sport-weenie-mode, it didn't occur to us either to bring gear, or to desire it while doing the route. I didn't notice the run-outs. However, like so many things, if I had had some gear with, I probably would have used it.
Dec 8, 2003
Roger & Dave, as Ray indicated above, the need for gear was reduced by the addition of one bolt a few months after the route was put in. There was a section of about 40 feet (below the top 3 bolts) where gear was needed. This was also the area where the block was removed that nearly took out Jim. Although I don't think it was that close but did make a good story. I drilled the bolt. The rock in that area seemed a little crusty. The only reason you would fall is if the rock broke, and it seemed that the flakes over that small steep section could snap off. To add another perspective on the "lookout Jim" episode, I was lowering Bob as he was to remove the flake. We moved everyone from the area (Jim was not yet in the area). Next thing Bob was holding this large flake screaming to be lowered. I got him to about 40 feet from the ground when he released the object. That was about the time Jim was ascending the fall line of the approach gully. He started hopping pretty quickly for an "old" man!
Oct 31, 2003
Climbed this Sunday 10/20. Great route! There's is a large block (1/3 'frig) just to the right of the last bolt that is quite loose. There is an X on it now, but it could have monumental consequences if somebody pulled it off.
Oct 20, 2003
Bob - a simple solution. We have lowered trundelers that were far too large to carry by drilling a bolt in them and then lowering the rock via a block and tackle pully system attached to a higher bolt. Most of the ropes will handle the job, but a static line has saved beating up the lead cords. Even a two-pass pully will handle some big loads (several hundred pounds), and smaller blocks can even be lowered with a GriGri. Beats getting stoned to death.
Oct 16, 2003
If you can protect a climb to prevent an injurious fall, you owe it not only to yourself, but your partner, who will be forced to deal with you and your injury. I agree with Peter that falls sometimes happen well within your ability (remember Derek Hersey?).
Oct 16, 2003
The relationship between difficulty and protection is not as straightforward as that. On this route, there is at least one15-20 foot stretch with no bolts. If, for whatever reason, you fall, it's going to have serious consequences. Merely saying that gear is not required because you lead a given grade and had no problem can mislead others who may not savor 40 foot fall potential regardless of difficulty. On this route, there are sections that are very closely bolted and others that are not. If you have no problem soloing 5.7, which is basically what you're doing on the runout part, then don't bring gear (and don't screw up). Otherwise be prudent and take a light rack. If you find you didn't need it, great.
Oct 16, 2003
One of the better 10s on the wall. A single crux of maybe 2 moves can be done a number of ways, but most will feel harder than the given grade. One way, at the given grade, makes it all finesse, but does require 5'9" height or greater if I am guessing right (I'm 5'10" but have LOOOOONG arms and had 5" to spare). ~5.10b. The shorter, the harder...
Jul 16, 2003
Excellent route. .10b/c seems about right. I'm 6'1" and could juuuust reach the key hold at the crux. Shorter climbers will definitely have to do a hard intermediate move to get there. This route has some great climbing. The upper headwall is steep and fun with a tricky top out. Nice and long, too. Stretched our 60m right to the half way mark.
Jul 12, 2003
The bolt count is actually ten - a single bolt was added (not by the FA party) on the very day that provided that little bit of excitement for Jim. As for difficulty, the reachy bulge at the 4th bolt or so is certainly harder for shorter climbers, which may explain any controversy. This is actually a really good route, and much better than it looks. -R
Feb 18, 2003
This is a really cool route with several good cruxes. .10b/c is a good rating for this route, no harder
Feb 15, 2003
AKA...Run For Cover Jim Erickson! Cleaning up splendidly. A tad stiff for 5.10 b/c, S.K.
Feb 4, 2003
- Daily Grind, The
Nice 5.10 climbing spoiled by an awkward 5.11 clipping crux. One of those weird big-stand-up-on-one-leg with no hands moves. Then you basically are balancing on one foot, swaying in the breeze, and swinging a draw at the bolt. If this bolt were moved down about a foot (as well as the next one), then you could clip more easily and the climbing would flow better.
Nov 13, 2010
For a nice warm up (if 5.10 is hard you that is): climb the first 4 bolts of The Daily Grind, then at the small overhang before the route gets thin along that little seam - traverse left up and over the overhang and finish on Smell the Coffee. This I thought was a decent 5.9 climb as you avoid the crux moves of both routes. Even with normal draws I didn't feel much rope drag as the two bolt lines are pretty close. You can call it Grind the Coffee or something...
Nov 2, 2006
Felt like a 10d. That crux is pretty hard to move past.
Jun 20, 2006
Definitely 10+ if you go straight up at the mini roof. At 6.4 I can just about reach anything, but pulling that highstep with the seam layback was pretty thin for mid 10. We thought this and Smell the Coffee were a bit forced (also climbed Snooze Button and thought the same thing). There are definitely some cool features on each route, but linking these features within a suggested rating and trying to climb the route the way the first-ascensionists envisioned felt pretty contrived. I have a beef with routes where a much easier variation can be had by climbing within a wingspan or so of the intended line. Why put in a 10+ sport climb in 10- territory? Such is the nature of sport climbing, I suppose. Oops, didn't mean to rant. This was my first sport climbing visit to Boulder Canyon, and ended up feeling a bit cheated. Perhaps we'll pick a different cliff next time.
Sep 6, 2004
I thought the route was at least 10c. Maybe I didn't approach it right, but I had a tough time with the moves on the thin face above the overlap.
Jul 19, 2004
The extension is "Caffeine Buzz," which is in the database.
Mar 17, 2004
Felt thin for 10b/c, but then again I'm a little out of shape for face climbing.
Dec 8, 2003
A very good route. 10b/c felt right to me. Pretty continuous slab climbing between the 5th and 7th bolt. Just gotta trust that nub with your right foot at the crux. Bob, just curious, why did you switch hangers?
Aug 20, 2003
5.11? Really hard slab moves over the roof. Is there a secret?
Aug 20, 2003
- Golden Slumber
No bats and no fixed gear on this route. I didn´t know about the gear placements, but it didn´t feel scary on bolts only.
Jan 17, 2015
Never seen a bat here - btw, there's a fixed piece of gear between 4th and 5th bolts (spaced ~12-15 feet apart), so no need now for placing a piece there....
Apr 8, 2013
No bats did I see behind the crack when climbing this route last weekend. The tower half way up seemed solid to me, although I didn't give it a thorough look over.
Jun 10, 2008
Climbed this route a few weeks ago, fun with a non inflated grade. NO bats did I see.
Jun 18, 2007
Amusing bat discussion thread from 2003... Most bats in this area are migratory and set up roosts in the same crag every year from around Memorial Day through late August/early September. While it may be a little unnerving to have a fuzzy, cranky, hypoglycemic beady-eyed beast hissing at you from your preferred hold, just think of all the mosquitos a colony can take out! ci.boulder.co.us/index.php?…
Nov 4, 2006
No bats today.
Nov 10, 2005
Did this a couple of weeks ago and enjoyed it, because:* Mixed gear and bolts. More interesting than just bolts. Even had a good sling on a horn.* Several long reaches to big jugs--that's always fun.* The swing right at the "hand crack"; I was perplexed at first, thinking I had to climb the crack, but instead, sink low and around to the right to a good stance.* The final, crux moves: Looks easy, because you start the crux with huge handhold footholds, but it's still hard.* No bats.
Oct 10, 2004
Bat on the jug just to the right of the middle of the headwall crack. The bat was mellow with my hand on the jug. The bat smelled badly.
Aug 8, 2003
I never noticed any bats in the crack when I did this route shortly after it was put up.... but then this was the *only* route on the wall that I really disliked and I would never repeat it myself.
Jul 18, 2003
Re: Climb first have an opinion later: Sounds reasonable, ok, I will get around to it, maybe, sounds like a p.o.c. though. Re: Armchair comments: I know I was armchair commenting and said so, that is why I asked the question, made the suggestion, sought input, proposed a solution. Is this harmful to anyone or anything? (ok maybe some of our carpal tunnels are sore now). Re: Angry at Tony: Is anyone angry about this? If so, let's tuck our nerve endings away and have a [reasonable] discussion, that is what this tool is for, no? (internet dysfunction aside). Re: Migratory pattern of bats: Hell, I guess if they moved in after we climbed it, then it's their tough luck, we are further up on the food chain, that's good enough for me. Read: flying rat stew. Re: Name of route: May I suggest a slight modification: Ozzy's Golden Slumber. Sounds like (from further discussion) that this route may be a "must miss" anyway, so bolts and anchor may not increase the traffic significantly to disturb our distant mamalian cousins, plus it sounds like you need to bring PRO? too, good show!
Jul 18, 2003
A few points, since I guess I [stirred the] pot... 1) If the bats are what I think they are, there nowhere near endangered. Perhaps the first thing to do is for someone (I guess I can, if nobody else is better qualified) is to establish what they are so we can react with respect to what pressure the species is under. 2) The bats probably are NEW there. There was not the typical stream of crap and piss out of the crack, although it was quite pungent. The colony was large and LOUD. If they'd been present on the FA they'd have been noticed. Let's conclude that the moved in later. 3) There are no bolts directly on this section. Also, you don't need to stick your hands into it to climb it. It's gripping a flake. They got most upset when I stuck my head over there to look in on them to try to determine the species. 4) Aren't Bats seasonal? I can't imagine they'd [rather hibernate] in the crack living in [icy] runoff in the winter rather than in a mineshaft 400 yards away in the winter. They may move off and not return. I asked that question before so as to establish this possibility. 5) Maybe nobody should climb the route until late fall/winter and then see what the situation is. Since the primary source of info about this cliff seems to be this site, we can self-impose a closure of the route here. If we're worried about people just showing up and getting on it, we can clip a laminated notice to the second bolt (where land managers won't be, but climbers will see) regarding the request not to climb the route due to BATS. Thus we close this route and don't get an over-reaching and over reacting closure on the whole thing. [After all]- the closure of the cave was for a general area the bats were in. This crack is not so general, and the bats didn't even notice and had no reason to notice what was happening on nearby lines. A total cliff closure would just be stupid. 6) I brought this up in good faith that nobody would overreact. If people do, I will have learned my lesson in front of a huge community- that will all learn not to try to 'help' and just keep concerns quiet in the future. This would be an unfortunate and counterproductive result if the county freaked out this time. Any bat experts out there?
Jul 18, 2003
OK, Bad assumption, but now that we know there is a significant colony there, should we wait for the real bat activist to turn up or should we take matters into our own hands? Alternatively, we could crowbar off the spire, bring a large can of BAT RAID and finish the cleaning job. I am sure that the bats would find a new home and survive (ok skip the BAT RAID), and we can continue to pull down! I am not a bat activist, even though I may have suggested in another thread that we improve their environment through the thoughful application of an artificial christmas tree, I just know of bat closures in other local areas, and it would be a shame to have wasted all the bolts and time on this crag. AC at Boulder Public Library, if you don't have something useful to say, then why waste those valuable keystrokes? Paul
Jul 18, 2003
Paul: Bats would rather live in cracks than sunbathe on slopers. Should we start closing all routes with bats in them? And if we do climb cracks, wouldn't it be better to use bolts along the sides of the cracks rather than sticking our bat-gaffing cams in there? Do you have a selective bat protection policy, biased against routes with bolts on them?...
Jul 18, 2003
Should this route have been bolted, knowing about the sleeping bats (I am assuming that Golden Slumber and Sleeping Bats is not a coincidence). Would it have been prudent to avoid the bats, knowing how fond our local public land managers are of protecting them and because we love them (the bats that is) and we love our continued privilege of climbing? Having not made it to this area (yet) would it be a good idea to move the anchor below the pillar, that may fall with people cranking on it anyway, and we have a win/win, not to mention an example where we are doing the "right" thing? We give up a crux of a climb for the safety and continued Golden Slumber of a colony of bats...this is good press, and seems to me (sitting here at my computer), to be a good/workable idea, maybe in real life there is a problem with doing this?
Jul 18, 2003
What is holding the pillar up top in place...Well, to some degree the dirt back behind it, to some degree inertia, and to some degree, just plain slip Vs tip statics. Gear low on it shouldn't pull it off- gear up top might pull out, but I wouldn't think so. If it did, I don't think it would tumble the tower. Maybe I am taking about a different tower? In any case, if it did fall, the absolute SWARM of bats back behind it would be really pissed off. On my way up there, I first smelled them, then they started tintering at me. I looked in to see about 50 of them crawling all over each other and further into or out of the crack. I moved on pretty quickly to avoid much more disturbance. They were probably Brown Moytis, but I'm not a bat expert, so maybe there is a look-alike of which I am unaware... The route is not bad, but not that great. It still needs to clean up a little, and the bats take a little away from it. When (if ever) do they move out and go [someplace] warmer/drier? The climb in general is more honest at its grade than some at the cliff. 10d seems fair [enough].
Jul 18, 2003
If anyone could explain exactly what is holding the big pillar in place, and what is likely to happen if any of the gear placed on the left side of it actually had to hold a fall, that would be interesting. Fortunately since that section is easy it's not likely we'll get an answer to the second part of the question. But don't pull too hard up there all the same.
Jul 15, 2003
My Vote: Bob did us a favor, neo old school: pitch a few more rocks, call the finale 5.11-, it's a winner...
Nov 8, 2002
Just for the record: I did the first ascent of this route sometime in 2000 with Dave Goldstein, entirely on natural gear. We thought it was 5.10+ or easy 5.11, and we would have given it an S rating for the loose rock near the bottoms and the sketchy traverse into the corner, past what is now the third bolt. I didn't name it. I climbed right of Bob's line after the third bolt, staying in the obvious corners. In my opinion, this is more fun and logical climbing than the way it is bolted, and since you need to carry gear for this route anyway, give it a try and see what you think. At the top, I traversed left just below the second-to-last bolt, which is a tad easier than the bolted finish. Just to be clear: I am NOT advocating that the bolts be removed. The bolts (and cleaning) have improved the first 30 feet of this climb, which was difficult and somewhat dangerous. Though the upper bolts don't really add any safety to the line I climbed, I'm not worked up over them either. The climb is a bit more fun now.
May 22, 2002
- Lucky Strikes
I stickclipped the second bolt, because I enjoy having ankles.
Jan 22, 2017
Fun, steep route with very good holds. Clipping the 2nd bolt is the crux. The first bolt is uselessly low. It will not keep you off the ledge. The route is strangely bolted, in typical Bob D'Antonio style, with too many bolts in places the don't necessarily protect difficult moves above ledges. 3 stars for movement, but the bolting somewhat detracts from the climbing. This was pretty easy, albeit pumpy, to onsight with plenty of good rests and jugs. There is certainly not a single 5.12 move on the route, including the heinous 2nd clip. It is a V3 boulder problem into 5.11 climbing. Of course, you can always choose a more difficult sequence. The way I climbed the route, onsight, ground-up, 5.11+ could be overly generous. Compare this to any mid to hard 11 at Castle Rock, Eldo, or the Flatirons for a reality check. Worthwhile and top 3 on the wall after The Scientist and Lucid Dreaming.
Jun 17, 2016
Since Fall 2002, I have climbed this route many times. I have always stick clipped the 2nd bolt. I would recommend this to most people trying this route. Blowing this clip would be a ledge fall & really impact the belayer. The crux is the overhanging start with powerful crimpy moves. Once you at the 3rd bolt, the climbing is sustained 5.11 with a second redpoint crux after the 4th bolt (.11d/12a). Gain the shelf & no hands rest at 8th bolt & it's over. There is an exciting runout 5.10 finish. Great route offering a powerful start followed by a good forearm pump.
Mar 20, 2016
I thought this route was pretty damn good from bottom to top... save for the last contrived 15 feet where it's easier to go right at the ledge into an easy corner system and then step back left using jugs to clip the last bolt and up climb to the anchor. I also thought the lower section was pretty difficult, but honestly clipping the 2nd bolt was not hard. The moves \after the 2nd bolt are hard! I think lock-off strength and precision footwork are a quality skill set to possess when climbing this route. Pretty spot on for the grade I thought.
Feb 17, 2013
What a great climb! Crimpy and balancy and technical but not too hard. Just when you hit the sloping ledge and think it's over you step back left over the void for another fun move. Top notch!!!
Mar 25, 2007
I clipped the second bolt and downclimbed to the ground, then went back up, stuck (struck?) the next move and finished the route. I thought I had flashed the route until another climber complimented me on my "nice try." Is downclimbing considered poor style these days?
Nov 20, 2006
Excellent moves and really fun and sustained... Don't blow the second clip though or it would be quite possible to hit the ledge below.
May 28, 2006
Good job, Young Doug. Pay no attention to the spineless downgrading. The route is 12b even when compared to Rifle routes at the same grade & even with the kneebar rest which is probably more taxing than making the 4 more moves to the slab.
Sep 20, 2005
Sometimes it's hard to determine whether a hold is "on" or not. Try this simple rule, which works well in Boulder Canyon: When you are touching the hold, can you touch a bolt with your elbow or your knee? If so, the hold is "on" and you can proceed to use it with a clear conscience.
Dec 19, 2004
No hands knee bar at the roof up high. Full recovery.
Nov 16, 2004
Obviously this is 5.12b, It's my onsight grade, and this was a perfect test. Nice route.
Mar 21, 2004
Hey D. Rivers that is a great way to put it! I agree. Your friend is right on. I have never been a strong onsight climber but I've always been able to "whittle" a route down until I can do it. I'm sure most of us have had the same experience: we work a route and when it finally goes think "man that felt like 5.11 (5.10 whatever)" I think I've read a lot of people downgrading routes after they have them so wired the can do laps on them. Its always been my opinion that the grade of a route is a subjective measure of a route's difficulty, onsight, on lead. Your friend says "whittle it down to 5.10. I've always said "beat it into submission" same idea. But beating it down doesn't change the grade does it??
Jan 30, 2004
A good friend of mine, who regular on-sights to soild 5.12 and redpoints to 5.13, has a phrase for hard redpoints. In his mind it's all about "whittling the route down to 5.10." Redpoints are always substantially different from onsights, whether it goes after one or one hundred tries.
Jan 29, 2004
(beta question following...don't look if you're an on-sight type) Is the large crescent crimp up and right of the first bolt "on"? Going there, then back left to the second bolt, was really not that bad. All the holds are pretty incut. Of course, you don't think it's good, just looking at it, but I saw someone use it, so I tried it, and like-alot. Oh, and the top is a little strange. The easy corner is so inviting! It's hard to avoid. I say 11d, because it certainly wasn't harder than "James Brown's Wild Ride", which for some reason always sticks out as a benchmark 11d.
Dec 8, 2003
I agree that this is certainly one of the best climbs on the crag! What a find! Clipping the second bolt is certainly the crux. Great movement...nice and pumpy!
Sep 14, 2003
Full disclosure: I fell off at the crux on my first try, then hung at the top (easier, but pumped). Lucky Strikes is a really cool route. Good moves, tricky in spots, several cruxes, although none as hard as the bottom. Hard to on-sight because of the strenuous nature at the bottom and the caution used going up and checking the holds and figuring out the moves. Once you know the moves, they feel better/easier. I got thrashed trying to move with caution through the bottom. Really nice line. Too bad it is not super-straight. Close to a 3* line though. There are 12b's I can't even dog my way up... but then again, this route is really hard to get on-sight. It felt easier after finding the holds, but the difficulty is in reading the route, not just doing the moves, so give or take a little, the grade is probably about right.
Jul 16, 2003
To go back to an earlier question you asked, I believe "getting" a route of this nature, as opposed to an aid route or an ice route for example, means no weighting of equipment on the way up. If that is the definition, then the route could be gotten in any manner of styles of ascent. Climbers have names for most of those styles, many of which I listed previously with the possible exception of "top rope". I think that, with respect to the grade of a climb, that should be an objective number, unaffected by the style of the ascent. Without doubt, most if not all climbs feel easier with rehearsal. However, the holds remain the same whether the route is onsighted or not. I believe that this is why the style of the ascent is just as important as the grade number attached to it. A true onsight of Lucky Strikes would be a much more impressive achievement than mine, even though both ascentionists could claim they had gotten this route at 12a (or whatever the grade is). What's your opinion? I agree that the purpose of doing a free climb is not weighting the equipment and that any number of styles can be used to realize the achievement. The question is whether a number really reflects the achievement or indeed really holds any value at all except as a rough guide to the potential physical and mental demands of the route. Your phrase "the holds remain the same" reflects the truth most of the time but how often have people said "a hold broke so it's harder" when no hold broke at all. The thing is that people change day to day, even hour to hour and their ability changes with it. That, combined with the sheer complexity of routes, means there is no such thing as an objective 12b grade. It's like saying a cloud looks like a dog. When I look at it, it may be a parrot. Is it the same cloud? What can we agree upon about it? The same point applies to style. Yes, a graceful, naked solo onsight would be very impressive, more so than a typical hangfest culminating in a sketchy, draws in place, shakefest. But style ultimately remains a personal choice and as long as you're not altering the rock or affecting others with your choices, go for it. Paradoxically, this can result in conunundrums such as whether soloing routes (theoretically good style) with other parties on them is maybe not such good style. In the end however climbers who seek to standardize, codify, or regularize the experience are chasing an illusion. Yes, doing a "12b" onsight is more impressive to someone who is impressed by that sort of thing but I am impressed more by people who think and ask questions about the assumptions we all make about even such a trivial pursuit as climbing. So, thanks for making me think about this some more.
Jul 15, 2003
Peter: To go back to an earlier question you asked, I believe "getting" a route of this nature, as opposed to an aid route or an ice route for example, means no weighting of equipment on the way up. If that is the definition, then the route could be gotten in any manner of styles of ascent. Climbers have names for most of those styles, many of which I listed previously with the possible exception of "top rope". I think that with respect to the grade of a climb, that should be an objective number, unaffected by the style of the ascent. Without doubt, most if not all climbs feel easier with rehearsal. However, the holds remain the same whether the route is onsighted or not. I believe that this is why the style of the ascent is just as important as the grade number attached to it. A true onsight of Lucky Strikes would be a much more impressive achievement than mine, even though both ascentionists could claim they had gotten this route at 12a (or whatever the grade is).What's your opinion?
Jul 14, 2003
Peter Beal wrote: If you find a route easy you may be a better climber than you thought. If only it could be true! Just the other day, a notorious sandbagger friend said that he wouldn't describe himself as such (sandbagger, that is); he just puts people to the task because he thinks "they're more capable than their ability." Hmmm ... think about it. Yes, this was a drunken comment. Have you been drinking from the same bottle, Peter? Just kidding. However, I see similar logic, though different results. Climbing a route my friend recommends could get you into trouble, but at least you're kept honest. If you climb a soft route and send, no harm done? Well, I value my integrity, so I guess I feel a little cheap. I do agree with Peter that grades aren't the end all be all, but they sure make for fun conversation/debate. For the record, I haven't climbed this particular route and probably can't (darned ability gets me again!). I have climbed others at this cliff, however, and did agree with many (even those who put them up, apparently) that the grades need to come down a letter or two. Regardless, I had a blast on all the routes I climbed here. Fun moves and great position that's far enough from road traffic.
Jul 11, 2003
I've done this route at least half a dozen times, mostly with no-preclipping. By now it feels like mid 5.11, except for clipping the second bolt which is still pretty tenuous. Given the amount of space devoted to grading comments, I shouldn't add any more but I would like to say this. If you find a route easy you may be a better climber than you thought. I'm ready to downgrade everything in Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek along with everyone else but it seems kind of pointless. Some routes feel easier, some feel harder, all of them are challenging in different ways. Getting all wrapped up in a number masks that truth.
Jul 10, 2003
Peter: Which one of the foregoing advantages that I listed (e.g. beta, prehung draws, etc.) do you think turned the route from a 12b into a 12a? Would that be true for every route or only this one? In other words, does beta, or some other combination of advantages, always drop a route's grade? Are there exceptions, and if so, what are they? Just looking for opinions.
Jul 8, 2003
I would say that all the aforementioned advantages would certainly make the route easier than 12b if that's what you're asking. If it qualifies as "getting" the route, that is a question of a deeper, more philosophical nature. What does getting a route mean to you?
Jul 2, 2003
Just Wondering: Does a prior-knowledge, no-falls, first go, draws pre-hung, rope clipped through the second draw, ascent count as "getting" this route? If it counts, where in the continuum of style does it fall? Does said style have a name, like red-point, pink-point, brown-point, beta flash, as some possible choices? Great route; 12a.
Jul 2, 2003
Two comments: First, Lucky Strikes gets my vote as the best line on the wall. It has interesting moves that utilize some very nice turns, ascends largely excellent rock, and has good continuity with a developing pump. Second, we found the nut on the first clip to be completely loose (2/16/03), in fact I took it off by hand. Knowing how much Bob and Vaino have done, I reckon that this is not a case of poor craftmanship. Here is how this nut loosened up. The crux climbing on Lucky Strikes comes between bolts one and two and as a result bolt one receives a lot of hangs and therefore a lot of torque. Since a wedge bolt has the nut on the outside, unlike a Rawl, rotational torque on the hanger will tend to unwind the nut if the rotation is clockwise. In this case one is moving right for a jug and any pull on the hanger will be clockwise, as a result unwanted torque on the hanger will unwind the nut. Its hard to beat if clips one and two receive all of the dogging. Stick clipping bolt two can help, and may be advised for the near future. Cementing the nut can help, as can a lock-washer. My personal preference is to use a Rawl, where, although some loosening may still arise, it won't dissemble the whole unit. This not a Tom Ridge panic button just a cautionary note for a sweet line. By the way, it may be a good recommendation to drop in some Rawl bolts on the new line going in to the left of Lucky Strikes, although the crux on this route will be higher on the wall - just something to think about.
Feb 16, 2003
My favorite 5.12 on the Plotinus Wall. The crux is definitely clipping the second bolt after the powerful start. I was able to find a decent rest in the upper alcove below the ledge, and down low between the second and third bolt. I thought the route was generally pretty clean compared to the other routes on the wall. Thumbs Up overall!
Aug 6, 2002
Hi Bob, Great work from you and your partners on these routes. I'm only jealous that I didn't get to equip that arete first. It looks really good. Next visit...
Apr 30, 2002
This is another excellent pitch, varied and technical. However it needs a thorough going over, especially at the start, to tame some of the crumbly rock.
Apr 29, 2002
- Lucky-Freedom
Nice send, buddy! Cool link-up. It's got the best moves of both routes!
3 days ago
- Morpheus
So, am I the only one who thought an all points off dyno to the little shelf out left on the arete was the way to go? After 2 tries of trying to get there statically the dyno worked really well and was super fun! Afterwards on TR, I just reached out several feet above the shelf and used the arete with the thin crack as a sidepull for my right hand (instead of the dyno). I placed 3 mid sized cams for pro, which seemed just fine. Agreed the top section is consistent and can pump you out quickly. And yes 60m rope mandatory...even with one you just barely hit the ground so be careful raping or lowering. I would give this 4 stars if it was completely sustained...as it is the plethora of rests break it up too much. Still a great climb though.
Nov 3, 2007
Lots of fun. Take a red Alien and maybe a #1 or #2 Camalot if you don't want to run out the 5.7ish corner to the crux. It was easy and I didn't really think about only having a red alien 20 feet below, but maybe it is smart to have a bigger piece. The crux move out left to the arete was sweet. To top it off the mid 10 face at the end is a great finish! Agree with everyone else, do not climb this with anything less than 60m rope.
Mar 25, 2007
Heard from a solid source, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITH A 50m ROPE!
Jan 15, 2006
Kirk Woerner said: For some reason I found this REALLY hard...Do you just go for the jug or slap the [arete] a bit first? I remember leaning out off of a decent hand hold, pasting my left foot on the wall and lunging sideways to the jug. My partner, Chuck, who is shorter, got his left foot to stick on something and did it more or less statically.
Sep 10, 2004
For some reason I found this REALLY hard. I simply could not get over to the good jug out on the arette even though it was SO close. Usually at this grade I can at least do the moves after working it out but not this time, and I stayed on the low path. Was I missing a backstep or something? Do you just go for the jug or slap the [arete] a bit first? BTW, I agree that just above the crux is a good bit of really cool juggy but pumpy and thought provoking climbing.
Sep 10, 2004
I'd call the "low" crux traverse left from the corner to the ledge .11b. But, since it's only one or two moves, .11a makes sense too. For me, the most enjoyable climbing was on the final headwall. It's never harder than .10c(?), but consistently thought-provoking. The 30+' corner between the 3rd and 4th bolts is well protected with two or three pieces chosen from 6 - 9 Stoppers to .75 - 1 1/2 Friends (or similarly sized Aliens, Camalots, etc.) This and The Daily Grind are probably the two nicest climbs uphill from Sleepless in Boulder.
Oct 18, 2003
The NW Corner of the Bastille has three variations in Rossiter's guide to do the crux headwall varying from 11b to 10c -- the left and center variations are just a couple feet apart. No one has a problem with that. Hopefully both variations for Morpheus will show up in the topo of the new guidebook.
Sep 23, 2003
To me, the grade is just an approximation. It lets me know if I should stay away or get on it. Some days everything feels easy and some days I have to work a "red point" on the trail to the climbs. Depends on everything.
Sep 15, 2003
I thought for a little while about how to say this without sounding like a wise guy, but I think no matter how I say it, some people are going to take it that way. I am serious and not trying to start a flame war, but isn't the climb an 11a if there is an 11a way to do it and anybody doing it a harder way is just making their ascent harder, not the route? From my point of view, skipping crux holds doesn't make a route harder, it makes the ascent of it harder. Maybe I am missing what you are saying, or maybe somehow this explains the differences in the grades I've been feeling between sport or trad lately. That maybe sport grades are made on the onsight by people used to redpointing?
Sep 14, 2003
grade depends on how high up you are at the crux, if you are higher, it is harder, if you a lucky enough or smart enough to reach lower at the crux it is easier. This probably explains the 11a/11c opinions Cheers BobL
Sep 14, 2003
11c felt about right for this route. Maybe I [missed] something at the crux. You can get a good #5-6 nut at the crux traverse to the left.
Sep 14, 2003
Good route that starts a little grungy and maybe loose, depending upon the path taken. The route soon improves. The other day I saw "medium gear" scribbled on a topo, so I took 1.5-3" gear. OK, so medium really meant .75"-2". With a few big stoppers and TCU's to 2" you can protect it well. It's a cool route, too. Borderline 2*. If the bottom 30' were more like the rest, it would be a better line, but it is very worth doing. I just have a really hard time saying that this is harder than Left Wing, let alone Pegasus, Kangaroof, or FM... I can't grade it 11c. I understand that the grades are all questionable, but the ones that have held their grade for 20+ years should be the benchmark.
Jul 16, 2003
This is a nice long pitch with a variety of climbing. Between bolts 3 and 4 in the corner, I placed a few cams ranging from about a #.4 to a #1 Camalot. (I think that a #.5 and a #.75 would be particularly useful.) I also placed a finger-sized stopper in the easy-but-runout section between bolts 1 and 2. A 60-meter rope is useful, as ours just reached back to the base of the climb while lowering, although this depends on where your belayer stands on the steeply sloping ground below the route.
Oct 8, 2002
- Mr. Sandman
Maybe I did it wrong, or maybe it was cold (couldn't feel fingers), or maybe I'm just lame. But I thought it was about 10c.
Oct 20, 2013
Excellent warmup. I would recommend it to anyoneb visiting this area.
Jun 12, 2011
An easy 5.10 for sure. The only reason I'm sticking with the 5.10 consensus is because several moves made me think, something you don't see too often on 5.9s. A little pump and fun moves at the end. Great warm-up.
Aug 21, 2010
Stellar, get on it! Long and varied, crazy wild moves to the anchors. Thought it was harder than Napster, but that just shows you what happens when you try to grade a climb.
Aug 12, 2010
5. B.E.A.U.T.I.F.U.L.
Nov 25, 2008
very nice warmup, not too bolted. Go straight at the last bolt, undercling the upside down horn and reach for the jug by the anchors, then move left. I tried it both ways, seems about the same difficulty but going straight up is more fun. down below is just balance, trust your sticky rubber.
Jun 8, 2005
Did this again a couple of weeks ago, this time on TR. Had a hard time at the bottom. There's not much for your hands, and if you're feet aren't just right, you get pushed out. Also thought the last move was pretty hard. Perhaps I just wasn't focused due to being on TR, or perhaps this is low 10 and not 9 as I said in a previous post
Oct 10, 2004
The easiest climb at Plotinus and one of the best. It's not difficult, but the moves are esthetic and fun the whole way up. An awkward move past the second bolt seemed about 5.8. The traverse left at the last bolt looks intimidating, but seemed about 5.9 once I got into it. It could be more difficult for shorter climbers to make the reach left to good handholds, however. A comment on quality ratings: Some people seem to find easy climbing boring and uninteresting, and give easy (or unsustained) climbs few quality stars. In my opinion, a climb with a single crux, with lots of fun easier moves, should not be downgraded in quality just because it isn't sustained at the crux level. But perhaps I enjoy easy climbing and other people don't.
Oct 28, 2003
Excellent route, but definitely easier than 5.10c.
Oct 27, 2003
One move at the bottom, one at the top. Easy in between. Pleasant but nothing special. 5.9. There are 10 bolts as of 10/9. There is one low to the ground that is not in the photo above. That may have been added recently? This first and possibly new bolt is unnecessary.
Oct 10, 2003
Charles, I concur. The move left to the anchors is similar in difficulty to the cruxes on Bolt Cola or That's Weak - the closest thing we have to "reference" 10a's in BoCan.
Aug 31, 2003
Wow! I climbed this in January 2003, and maybe it's cleaned up or something since then, but back then it seemed like solid .10b or so up near the anchors. I must be missing something, but I can't see how this could possibly be 5.8!
Aug 30, 2003
Another good climb seriously overrated. I appreciate above posts that reference rating against several other long established lines in the region. To continue that, this is easier than Hair City and West Buttress, any 5.9 on Castle Rock,... and that list could easily continue. I can't think of a lot of 5.8s that are harder around here, so in that vein I'd have to say 5.8 seems more like it. I know this is touchy ground, but keeping the rating inflation under control seems like a good idea. - Cindy
Aug 29, 2003
Even funner than it looks from the ground, but nowhere near as hard as Over the Hill. Easier than Bolting for Glory, too. I vote 5.9, if a majority grade makes sense. 5.9 **
Jul 22, 2003
I first did this route shortly after it had been put up, and thought Bob's grade was right on. It has cleaned up nicely, and I found holds today that I had completely missed in the grit and lichen before. It is easier now, yes, but certainly not 5.9. Sandman is harder than a typical bolted BC 10a, and for that matter, Over the Hill. I'd call it 10a/b, and do be careful getting to the first bolt. A two star route at a three star crag.
Jul 20, 2003
Pretty good line and if nothing else, nice & long. There are a lot of good 10's at the cliff so that a 5.10 climber can make this a day's destination and do good routes all day- in which case, this should be one of them. Pretty good route, but not the best in the area. So far, Sleepless In Boulder or Lucky Strikes seemed the best at the cliff. The route seems easy at its grade, but a 5.9 leader might be a little tweaked on it, eh?
Jul 16, 2003
Another vote for the quality of this route here. This is indeed an excellent route on quality rock, with moves that are surprisingly aesthetic and continuous. This is one of the finer bolted routes I've ever done, bar none. Thanks to Bob and Vaino for this line. These days I'm more inclined to see route ratings as unique to the area as much as being strictly conforming to the YDS. I.e. "an Eldo 5.9" or "a Vedauwoo 5.9" seems to mean more, if that information is available. That said, I think this route is "a Boulder Canyon 9+".
Jul 9, 2003
I had been up to Plotinus Wall twice before, but skipped this route because of the one-star rating. What a mistake. It was reading Richard's comments that changed my mind and he is right on. This route is destined to become one of the most popular moderate sport routes in the Canyon given the high quality of the moves and rock combined with the tranquil setting away from the highway. Regarding the rating, I thought this route had no moves harder than Animation 5.9 (aka Jaycene's Dance 5.8) at Animal World, but anyone who skips this route because of the rating is missing out.
Jul 9, 2003
I would like to add my vote of at least another star for this climb. Grade possibly 10a although given the downgrading mentality for this area, let's call it 5.8 to be on the safe side. Whatever the difficulty, certainly one of the most enjoyable moderate sport climbs in the canyon and the best warmup on the wall.
Jul 2, 2003
Two stars for sure, at a minimum. In two trips to Plotinus Wall, I found myself running up this pleasing pitch each time. The line has fine , thoughtful movement on largely excellent rock that is well protected. And it gets good sun. This leads me to musing about good climbing. Sometime in the middle 80s Alan Watts crystallized the one thought that has driven much of climbing for two decades or more. He said that "difficulty is the objective" - and (arguably) that statement set the whole quest in motion. Frankly, it may be equally important to recognize that "esthetics is the objective". In most circles, esthetics and difficulty equate nearly perfectly, but esthetics also allows that some moderate climbing contains some of the most pleasing movement you can find on rock. Mr. Sandman offered up pleasing, esthetic movement in a nice environment without amping up the difficulty quotient. What more could you ask for?
Feb 3, 2003
The route 50' left of Mr.S.. short but 3Star...Mr. S. is quite good but 5.10c? S.K.
Nov 8, 2002
- My Buddy
I almost skipped this route as Rolofson gives it no stars. However, it is an OK route and worth doing if you just did "Bedtime Story". There is still a lot of lichen near the crux.
Apr 20, 2007
A fun route, which is still a little dirty due to lack of traffic. It shares the pumpy layback start of Bedtime Story before branching off after the fourth bolt. A fun stem left at the sixth bolt, a neat bulge with good handholds up higher, and a crux slab at the top. The hardest move was at the next-to-last bolt; 10b/c seems about right. I may have skipped another hard move at the last bolt by sliding to the left. After leading the pitch, I lowered from the anchors and my partner followed and cleaned the pitch on top-rope. It would be hard to clean the pitch while lowering or rappelling due to the traverse from the fourth to sixth bolts. If you scramble up the loose gully to do Bedtime Story, be sure to do My Buddy as well.
Oct 28, 2003
- Napster
The comments on this rating goes to show that ratings are subjective. This felt way easier for me than Wake Up Call and Sandman...I would say .10b. Very fun route though. I would definitely recommend this one. Interesting features and fun moves. Just wish it was longer.
Jun 2, 2011
Very fun movement on this route. Only downside is that it was so short. Not sure why the anchors weren't placed directly above the last bolt. Wouldn't have affected the difficulty, just would have made more sense. I thought this was easier than Sandman by a mile.
Aug 12, 2010
Fun, steep, short climb. 9+ if it were in Eldo.
Dec 10, 2008
The crux is just below the anchors. Great fun climb. The first bolt is about 10 feet off the ground but easy to get to.
Jul 31, 2007
Fun little route. Felt much more like 10a to me.
Jun 17, 2006
Nice short line, fun climbing. This and several ratings in this area seem very generous. -Cindy 9+
Aug 29, 2003
Fun climb although short. Would get more stars if it was longer.
Aug 20, 2003
Albeit short, this is a great little problem. Much closer to .10c than Mr. Sandman (which is fantastic). Interesting, thought-provoking climbing with some spice at the top. Fun!
Jul 11, 2003
This is a nifty little problem with a flake system that just begs to be climbed. There is an interesting transition from the angular movement in the flakes to a fingery crux passing the small overlap. Up and left is a bit easier, but straight up off the undercling avoids the dicey moves back to the anchor. Cool thing.
Feb 3, 2003
- Not So Obscure
- Opener
Maybe I missed something, but I thought this was stiff for 5.10.
Sep 25, 2016
- Sleepless Child
This reminded me of climbing in the ADKs; the runouts keep it from being actually blah, especially the last one up the headwall! You can easily belay from the Morpheus anchor. Good route for traditionalists that would improve with more traffic. (We felt like second ascentionists: lots of lichen, no chalk, no bolts.) Note: I belayed at the top. We rap'd carefully back [left] to our packs with a 60m rope. (I'm not sure you could mindlessly lower somebody without a 70?)
Oct 7, 2010
- Sleepless in Boulder
This line starts off with some interesting opposing force moves to attain the good holds at the 3rd bolt and then immediately sends you in to a powerful lieback crux. It's really pumpy from the ground up through the 4th bolt and warrants an 11c rating in my opinion. I think the given rating of 11a no longer applies, since the big flake directly under the crux was removed. Grab some big jugs at the top of the sequence, and de-pump while on a nice cruise up through rock features similar to its neighbor Mr. Sandman. Come to a big, chalked-up flake, and prepare for the second crux to gain the arete and then up to the anchors. A long route with lots of intriguing moves, great rock features, and two distinct cruxes makes for an excellent sport route!
May 17, 2015
Burly start but luckily you are fresh for this part. Mostly easy climbing. I didn't really like the bolt placement up at the 'step across' move. The move isn't that difficult but a little awkward. The bolt should have been placed higher, so that you could clip from the high point of the good hand holds. There is a ledge about 10 feet below, and your belayer can't hear or see you at this spot.
Aug 8, 2012
Maybe I'm just weak these days, but this felt pretty solid 11c to me. No loose rock that I found that I needed.
Apr 20, 2008
The loose horn is now X'ed. I didn't tempt fate and avoided it throughout. Tough bottom section in the 11d range, upper section is a breeze with a considerably easier upper crux. Fun route, little blah in the middle. This is not an 11a/b, c if not d for the lower crux. Sandbaggers abound!
Apr 23, 2007
I tried this route on Saturday, and right after you clip the first bolt, there is an obvious horn out left with a ton of chalk on it that is now pretty loose. Does anyone know if it's always been that loose or is this a recent development?
Sep 25, 2006
Nice variety, fun route. From the perspective of a TR watching someone suss out the moves, I'd agree with Bob, this felt 5.11a/b. Around 7th bolt, there is a foothold R to make the move easier. Seemed the crux was around the 9th bolt moving R to the lieback.
Jan 15, 2006
I finally got this yesterday and I give it 5.11c. I never climbed it before the flake was removed and I think it has probably become significantly harder. Instead of standing on top of the now-defunct flake, you have to lie back and get your left foot high on a flaring crack that is above where the flake used to be. This entire bottom section is fairly burly and leaves you tired when you finally pull it. I think another tough section is at about the 7th bolt as seen in the photo. At this point there is an edge on which to layback, but it's difficult to get into. The layback is left-facing, and you start to the left of it, so there is an awkward swing into the layback position. Once you clip and mantel onto the holds over the clip, there are few holds on the face and I had to reach right for the arete. I think this is on-route. You also have to reach right for the arete before achieving the anchors, unless I'm a wuss and there is some way to stay on the face without using the arete.
Jul 7, 2005
I did this route on Saturday and it felt a bit harder than 11a to me and it appears that the missing block may have assisted in the feet situation between the second and third bolts. I am also comparing the grade to other grades in the canyon which can obviously change things. All in all, I think Sleepless in Boulder is a great route.
Jun 14, 2005
Is the climb still around 11a without the block?
Jun 8, 2005
Sort of too bad. That route was nicknamed the guillotine :)
Jan 6, 2005
Eight-foot crow bar? And to think, all this time I haven't had one of these on my rack. And everybody knows that you ain't diddley without a really big tool! So, where'd you get it? Neptune's only carries the 3 foot model.
Jan 6, 2005
Are you talking about the giant flake with a yellow question mark on it in the photo above the "comments" section? I hope not.
Jan 6, 2005
I repeated this route about two weeks ago. It is an excellent route, but a huge flake has broken off between the first and second bolt changing the difficulty of the climb the ease of clipping the second bolt. It is still a good route but be prepared for a rating that is a letter grade or two above the current rating, especially if you are short!
Jan 5, 2005
Variety is the spice of life. Overhanging laybacks, moderate face, and some interesting moves to reach the arete. Didn't see any loose rock on the route -- but reaching the bolt that protects the hard move right to the arete is a stretch.
Mar 22, 2004
Hard and strenuous at the bottom. Easy in the middle. Perplexing moves right and up at the top. I moved right onto the "arete" for the last moves to the anchors. Is that what people do? There was a bit of chalk going straight up the thin crack using small sloping footholds. But you'd have to reach right anyway to clip the anchors. I didn't notice anything loose, but I see the big yellow question mark on the big flake in the photo. I, and presumably everyone else, hung on this flake with full body weight. I rate climbs by Eldo and Boulder Canyon trad standards, so I'm calling this 11a. Could be 10d by those standards. I typically struggle (ie, hang once or twice) on 10c trad, but onsighted this.
Oct 10, 2003
Fun climbing. This probably deserves one star right now, but once it cleans up a bit it will be a solid 2 star route.
Sep 2, 2003
Perhaps I missed something, but it felt a little tough for 11a/b to me. Fun none the less.
Jul 21, 2003
Good route, one of the better ones I did at the cliff. It had a little of everything, jug-fest section, power section, balance, crimp, mantle. I'm not a big fan of one-move wonders with a pile of 5.9 aside... and this was not one of those- it kept my attention. Good route. Seems a little easy for mid 5.11, but it's good at any grade.
Jul 11, 2003
Climbed this a couple of weeks ago. Good jugs on steep rock down low. Upper headwall moves are pretty cool. Agree with the comment about the huge flake between bolts 1 and 2, although it *sounds* completely solid. Didn't notice the loose flake up high though so maybe its gone now. Check for loose nuts on the bolts -- two bolts (one at the anchor and one a couple of bolts from the top) had extremely loose nuts.
Jul 8, 2003
On May 31, my partner and I counted 11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. And there is indeed a slightly loose flake near the top of the route. At first glance, it is an inviting hold, which you reach right for, just below a clip (at the 10th bolt, I believe). When I grabbed it, it groaned in a sickening way. Also, at the beginning of the route, be wary of a large slabby block (about 3 feet by 4 feet by 8 inches) between bolts 1 and 2. The top of the block is a very sharp juggy rail that you use for your hands and later your feet. This block seemed solid, but there doesn't seem to be much keeping it attached to the wall; it is undercut below, and there are cracks on all the other sides, including underneath.
Jun 7, 2002
This a great route but needs a thorough cleaning. Lots of friable flaky rock and also a questionable fairly large flake near the top. I'm thinking that's going to come out soon with someone holding onto it.
Apr 29, 2002
- Smell the Coffee
If you go straight up instead of heading off to the right, this route is definitely more difficult than Mr Sandman. Fun, balance-y, reach-y and technical enough to make it interesting. Check it out and watch your feet at the first crux! Also, if you want to make things real interesting, try a full four-limbed layback on the roof fin. Felt like I was in yoga class... forty feet off the ground.
Aug 21, 2010
After having done this via the left seam and straight up past the bolts (more like just right of the bolts but not wayyyyy right) they seem kind of equal. Balancy on the left seam and a high-step/throw to a crimp on the right of the bolts. Felt 5.10 both ways. There is enough rock in Boulder that I didn't need to go literally straight up the bolt line, but yes this would be harder. Definitely not the path of least resistance. Funny though coming from Washington, DC where all the local crags are tiny - there would be three variations to this climb. When you only have a few climbs to choose from you explore every option.
May 29, 2008
I found the crux a bit deceiving like everyone else, but found traversing left to the side-pull seam to be a very natural feeling sequence. Also I highly recommend the second pitch Caffeine Buzz linked together with Smell the Coffee as one long pitch.
May 8, 2007
I liked this route a lot. A great warm up with big holds and no tough moves. Just fun the whole way and a great way to start out the day.
Mar 25, 2007
For a nice warm up (if 5.10 is hard you that is): climb the first 4 bolts of The Daily Grind, then at the small overhang before the route gets thin along that little seam - traverse left up and over the overhang and finish on Smell the Coffee. This I thought was a decent 5.9 climb as you avoid the crux moves of both routes. Even with normal draws I didn't feel much rope drag as the two bolt lines are pretty close. You can call it Grind the Coffee or something...The crux was a balance, "do you trust your feet" thing. It's all there you just have to find the little footholds. Felt 10 on the left seam.
Nov 3, 2006
We climbed this by going slightly left at the second bolt, liebacking the seam. Felt pretty hard for 10a... definitely harder than Napster or Mr. Sandman. It's tempting to even call it 10+.
Oct 6, 2003
OK... If this a 5.10a then Napster is definitely not a 10c. The beta photo has the 5th bolt wrong; you do not go around the small roof, you go right over it. I would put this route at 10b/c going straight up the bolts (crux between bolts 2 and 3) as Bob intended; even with the good side-pull it is a balancy move that is hard to reach if you are shorter than me. If you go right, you are more on the start to The Daily Grind which is well-rated at 10b/c, and another fun route on this part of the wall.
Aug 17, 2003
When this route was being developed, it was envisioned to climb it slightly left of the 2nd bolt. That was the crux, I thought some kind of 5.11. The real good handhold that you clip the 2nd bolt from did not exist in its current form. There was a loose flake on top of it, so you had to be careful how you pulled on it. When that flake came off, it made a very good hold that allows passage up and right. The farther right you go, the easier that move becomes, probably 5.9. It makes for a good route at a consistent grade.
Jul 11, 2003
Pretty good route. Going WAY right at the crux seems like the line of least resistance, as my partner did it, and we were both a little confused about the intended line. It seemed a little easy that way, but that's where all the chalk was. Going slightly right (left hand stays in clipping range) seemed about right for the grade, and if you stayed direct, 'belly to the bolts' it seemed very hard. I wound up to do it that way, checked my head and asked "5.10a?" and then moved a little right. It will go belly-on, but it'll be mid 5.11. Depends how you do it, can be a little easier or much harder.
Jul 11, 2003
- Snooze Button
Does anyone know what the FA's intentions were on the crux at the 5th bolt? I went to the right the first time I did it and recall it feeling 10a or b, so I assumed that was the intended route. Before I climbed it again yesterday I noticed that the 5th bolt is out left towards the arete and made me wonder whether I did it as intended before. I went left around the arete, and it felt 10c or maybe harder for me, but I'm not the best with smeary feet. I was within arm's reach of the bolt doing both variations, so I don't feel like I went off route. I feel you could make a case for 10b either way too. Anyone have thoughts on this route? Either direction, it's a fun route!
Mar 16, 2015
Good climbing throughout. Interesting and not so obvious moves on mostly good rock. Just keep an eye on some of the lower rock as it seems a bit rotten (hollow to the tap).
Jun 2, 2011
Watch out for a little vertical flake on the bottom portion just after the second bolt?? It creaked a bit when I pulled on it.
Sep 3, 2003
Another nice route on this wall. Nice climbing with an interesting crux. We climbed here at about 11am and it was IN the sun and hot. While short and sort of a one-move wonder, the crux felt like 10b to me.
Jul 15, 2003
Fun route on excellent rock. This area is in the shade in the late afternoon, making it a good destination for after-work climbing.
Jun 30, 2003
- Something Obscure
Lots of growth/dirt on this route and rock quality was less than ideal. Make sure belay has helmet. Didn't end up using any gear larger than #2 BD.
Sep 25, 2016
- Tooth Fairy
Did both of the starting variations, very different styles of climbing but felt fairly similar in difficulty, maybe 11a or so. Did the left hand start first, and found getting to the 3rd bolt (above on the slabby area) kind of daunting. Something about the orientation of the hands and feet that made it kind of insecure, despite the holds being pretty good. I didn't really snooze through that section. Once you get past that, the climbing is pretty fun.
Nov 13, 2010
I agree with the above comment that the rightward traverse across the roof (after making the second clip) is a little nerve-wracking. It's not steep but the feet are thin and the handholds are tenuous. I also think that the crux of this route is easier than the crux of The Scientist (11a/b). The upper part of the climb is easier and pleasant.
Aug 26, 2007
The start is hard, nothing else is. Traverse above the second bolt is a little nerve wracking.
Oct 24, 2004
Wrong thinking will be punished, right thinking will be as swiftly rewarded. I remember this climb being a little dicey at the start, but protected well....but that could be my height advantage. I highly recommend this climb to the 5.9 climber wanting to break into the 11s. It was fun and painless, two stars.
Mar 29, 2004
Wrong-headed? What's next, thought crime? Big brother comes Anon coward in the night? Do I catch your logic right that it takes right thinking to upgrade, but that if you find an easy sequence to a climb and you are in fact in the majority there, that you are somehow 'wrong headed' and mentally defective? Sheesh... 11c is hard for me and this climb was a trot. Perhaps the 5.12s nearby are overgraded too, because I on-sighted a few of them as well, FOR WARM-UPS. I guess I'm wrong headed... my head is all wrong! Can someone help me get right-headed? Fix my mental defect that allowed such easy passage of this "5.11c" climb?
Mar 28, 2004
Many wrong-headed grading comments again. 11c is correct -- actually a harder [crux than] the near-by 5.12s, but so bouldery and short-lived that there is no pump factor. Nice 5.10- climbing to the anchor when the business is over. Anyone can downgrade. Good upgrading requires real knowledge.
Mar 21, 2004
Clip the second bolt and thereafter the route drops to 5.8/5.9. The runouts above are on JUGS. Seems as though the bottom can be done two ways. Straight up is a reach to a jug, but the left face has some interesting stems to a big fin and is a bit more difficult. The start is a bit sharp.
Feb 28, 2004
If you find this under your pillow be thankful your sweet uncle is a softy, 5.10+.SK.
Sep 15, 2003
Pretty good route. Two somewhat difficult moves with a sharp hold, then the route eased off to maybe 5.9, a sleeper for anyone who'd on-sight the bottom, which was well protected with easy clips. Flexibility and height help. I don't know what sequence went on the FA, but "belly to the bolts" it felt like hard 5.10/easy 5.11. Disclaimer given that I hardly ever sport climb, so local grades at this crag generally seemed a little easy.
Jul 11, 2003
- Wake Up Call
I knew this was a Bob D'Antonio routem because there were at least 4 bolts right next to bomber and obvious natural gear placements. The route is quite fun... would be a 3 star lead without the unnecessary bolts. The first 4 bolts or so are reasonably placed. After that, the rest of the bolts are next to perfectly good 0.4, 0.5, and 0.75 C4 placements. The rock on this route is perfect! I might start carrying a crowbar to clean up the mess that Bobby D made. Please don't sport bolt cracks or your bolts will get chopped.
Oct 11, 2016
A fun route with a very thin crux. Bring your edging shoes. I found this harder than some of the other 10a-10c's on the wall but just for the one very well-protected move.
Nov 16, 2013
Great bouldery climb. Exciting moves that make you shift your hips like you're dancing on the rock. Even though the top 1/3 is uninspiring, the first 2/3 is great and worth repeating.
Aug 21, 2010
Good climb. A nut or small cam may be useful before bolt #2.
Jun 18, 2005
The bottom deserves three stars, but the the top is out of character.
Sep 3, 2003
Another fine moderate line, Wake Up Call, delivers an interesting crux after gaining a good ledge system. The move passing the second bolt can seem reachy but some inobvious foot work should make the sequence doable even for the height challenged. Very nice addition.
Feb 3, 2003
- War On Freedom
At 5'8", 13b seemed about right. Loved this route! Props, Mark.
Apr 2, 2016
Pretty fun route with a hard move down low and a sustained finish, being tall really helps. I think if you avoid the dihedral it's about 13c (pretty contrived) but otherwise sits in the 13b range.
Oct 24, 2012
I am pretty sure I remember hearing that it was redpointed by a guy named Chuck who has worked at the Spot, forgetting the year though.
Jul 14, 2010
Yes, Peter, I have read these comments written in August, 2008. But there is no mention of a redpoint. Secondly, I was told by reliable sources that someone had redpointed the direct line by early 2008.
Jul 14, 2010
See the comments on the Bobsled Direct Start.
Jul 2, 2010
- Middle
- Dirty Corner (unknown)
- I Have a Dream
It's short with an interesting boulder problem start. I found some graceful beta off of a tenuous left sidepull. Foot placement and body-tension are important. I thought it was a better warmup for Lucid Dreaming than Mr. Sandman, for instance. Also more convenient. It was pretty dirty, so I gave it a decent brushing. The bolts are placed well, and the crux is engaging enough that it deserves two stars, imo.
Jun 27, 2014
- Lucid Dreaming
I'm with Adam 100% on this, i.e. please don't add perma-draws, and Jacob, arguing that draws are not permanent because you can take them off with a wrench is a semantic distinction. IMHO Boulder Canyon routes are a very bad venue for permanent hardware...especially on a wall where there are already quasi-access issues. Plus, there just isn't a need, because it is super easy to clean the routes here.
Dec 30, 2014
That's a tough one, Joe. My initial thought about the route was that the top half was wasted mileage, although I came to see it as a fun cool-down after the business. Cleaning the pitch is pretty simple, and I don't think moving the anchors over will make cleaning the overhanging section much easier. The route is a well established classic, which has been done too many times now to change it, IMO.
Dec 13, 2016
Anchor location on this route has always been a bit baffling which is shared w/ The Scientist and Rama. Probably the case of the FA making due w/ an anchor on a previously established route to make things "easy." However, in my opinion the anchor should be right around bolt six which would make cleaning on lower super easy. The terrain above bolt five is at best 5.9, and nobody who sends the crux and clips bolt five is ever falling off anywhere higher. In addition, the terrain after the crux is ho-hum. I don't think this climb is a candidate for permanent draws. However, do bring a stick clip for bolt one as it's too risky otherwise.
Nov 28, 2016
Agree completely with Adam and KCP, no perma-draws here, please.
Jan 3, 2015
Not going to mince words in saying that I oppose permadraws on a route like LD. Hanging draws on this rig is a breeze. I've done it several times. Moreover, having permadraws prohibits the ability of hanging draws for a traditional onsight, which still matters to some climbers. Convenience draws are best suited for gyms and steep, dry, cave-routes which are otherwise a major undertaking to equip. I own expensive Petzl Spirits for a reason, and I don't want to be forced into using permadraws because someone else wants them there for training-route convenience.
Jan 3, 2015
Equipping the route with Climb Tech type draws will not be permanent. All you need is a wrench to undo the quicklink. This route has had standard aluminum draws hanging on it for the past few seasons which have deteriorated fairly rapidly. I'm all for hanging a few steel Climb Tech draws on this route, they will be safer, and in my opinion look better than a bunch of mismatched B-team draws with potentially dangerous, sharp grooves worn in them.
Dec 30, 2014
Hi Curt, Please do not permanently equip this route (or any other, for that matter). Perma-draws are an eyesore and totally unnecessary for this route. Lucid is easy to clean, and this is a beautiful canyon that should not be blemished by needless permanent draws. Thank you for considering the natural beauty of the area over the minute of effort it takes to clean the route.
Dec 29, 2014
KCP, the draws taken down in May were mine. No big deal. I use to do the route a lot and just had them up for ease of climbing and not having to clean. I have actually donated several sets of draws over the years. I have thought about permanently equipping this route with some steel Climb Tech draws to the first 4 bolts which should last a long time, mainly to prevent having to climb the 5.10 to the top and not having to clean the route. Most pull through the crux, and once standing pull some slack and take the whip. Maybe someday I will get around to it. Good to always inspect and pull garbage draws from routes though, so thank you. There are plenty bad ones out there....
Dec 28, 2014
I hung a set of draws today on Lucid. They have a grey dogbone and black Omega biners. Also there are two blue BD QDs for the anchors. I fell and injured my foot while attempting the route and couldn't rescue the draws. I will be back in a few weeks to retrieve them when I'm better. If anyone cleans them before hand, please contact me. Thanks.
Oct 19, 2014
There are currently no fixed draws on this route, and I did not find hanging the draws to be such a chore that this route should be equipped with permanent draws. Easy to hang the draws from good stances and good holds. I can see this pushing 13a for short folks and somewhere around hard 12 for tall folks. Either way, good movement, great holds, and although the climbing eases considerably after the crux, the climbing above the crux is still cerebral.
Oct 5, 2014
Completely agree w/ JA and KCP.
Aug 18, 2014
I'm with J on this, Chris. The draws were sun-damaged, and the biners were worn enough to potentially damage rope running over them. The draw on the fourth bolt was curled up stiff into a 90 degree position from the sun-damage. If you can't see the danger potential from the pic, then I'm especially glad that I removed them before someone gets hurt. As for replacing them, it's not my responsibility, nor am I in the financial position to. LD is not a gym route, and no one asked the draw owner to equip the route and leave his or her draws there indefinitely. It was obviously done out of convenience, with little regard long-term wear. I took them down and posted that here so that the owner would know where to find them and the community would know not to hike up there expecting the route to be equipped. I even offered to deliver them within Boulder city limits. I felt (feel) that it was the responsible thing to do. Hopefully you can see it that way. Peace
Aug 17, 2014
^^^^^ Why again is it Ken's responsibility to replace the fixed draws? Want a solution to your perceived problem? Bring your own gear, and clean it on the way back down. Personally I think it was awfully generous of Ken to take the time to take pics of the gear with an offer to return it.
Aug 15, 2014
I removed the draws from Lucid Dreaming today. They're no longer safe. The one with the square-cut gouge in it was on the third bolt that people whip onto when they blow the lip. Several of the slings are showing visible sun and weather damage. Anyway, whoever owns them is welcome to call or message me, and I'm happy to get them back to you if you're local.
May 18, 2014
I wonder what Lucid Dreaming would be rated in Rifle?
Nov 21, 2013
Finished this today and cleaned my draws, blue BDs. Moved the other 4 draws to the 1st 4 bolts. Just a heads up.
Nov 8, 2012
I think that there is no way this is 13a, especially when compared to routes like Big Kahuna in Rumney, which is considered tough 12d/13a, there is no move on Lucid harder than the crux moves on BK. This should "settle" at 12c/d.
Nov 23, 2011
Great route. Do it! Still remains an ultra-classic climb in the front range....
Mar 23, 2011
I am new to this area of grade (hard 12) and recently did another Dream Canyon route...The Caterer 12c. I was wondering how you would rate The Caterer (because nobody posts any comments on it) and how it compares to a route like Lucid Dreaming. Any comments?
Nov 20, 2006
13a for sure and a great one at that.
Aug 8, 2006
As reference, ac's bouldering scale is off by about a number grade (V8=13a), but you will find many more climbers capable of climbing a V8 boulder problem than a 13a. I believe George's 12b grade may be a little stiff (that is most likley the result of being a solid 13 climber).
Oct 18, 2005
To further the case for downrating you can dyno past the first crux from a jug to the shaky flake (height-dependent but easy V0+ move for most people). To my belayer's dismay, this seemed like the most efficient idea, and after seeing him thrutch on the layback to get to the same hold, I figured he was doing it wrong anyway - he should spend more time bouldering and learning dynamic movement because this is nothing short of a giveaway to anyone who boulders.
Jul 12, 2005
I felt the route was 12c, and I'm short. The [Flying Beast] at Easter [Rock] is much harder and that gets the slash grade of easy 13a. Although the routes are a bit different in angle [The Flying Beast] is two boulder problems separated by a not so good of a rest as Lucid.
Jul 8, 2005
Rating--depends on height. Easier for taller people.Upper crux feels about like Hagan's Wall difficulty (V5), lower section feels about like Consideration difficulty (V4) -- so it is essentially a V4 with a good shake followed up by a V5. Which adds up to something in the range of 12d.
Jun 23, 2005
Doesn't V6 relate to 12d/13a?
Jun 10, 2005
This route is very similar to No Doze at the Sport Park (style and difficulty) - 12c by Boulder Canyon standards, could be a 12b in other areas I have visited. Very bouldery, so I can see where some folks could get shut down, but V6 if you look at it that way.
Jun 9, 2005
A good 12c
Jun 1, 2005
Just to be a grade geek here... comparing to other BC routes, I found this one a good bit harder to send than Animal Instinct, Amazing Face, and Hands of Destiny. I don't have much experience with 13a, but I would expect that to be a much longer-term project.
Mar 17, 2004
I guess that just goes to show this route has a little something for everyone. I on-sighted to the 4th bolt and then hit a small hold up and left that spit me off 2 or 3 times.
Dec 8, 2003
Awesome route. Hard to believe this line wasn't put up until recently. I found the hardest single move to be the long move from the jug at the 2nd bolt... this was a low percentage move for me. If you don't have a stick clip, you can clip the first bolt of Rama to remove the possibility of tumbling down to the creek. Not sure what to make of the downgrading going on here. I think people just like to give Bob a hard time. I've been able to finish 12c's at Boulder Canyon and Shelf really quickly of late, but this one will need a bit more work for me to link.
Dec 8, 2003
I'm bummed that I'm moving from Boulder, because I won't have routes like this in my backyard anymore. Not too bummed to get away from all the mindless downgrading ego games, though. Yuck. This route is hands down one of the most aesthetic in the canyon, with some of the most fun climbing anywhere. And it is bolted just right for some good clean air when you blow the crux before clipping the 4th bolt. Great job, Bob!
Sep 30, 2003
Nice climb, nice moves: too bad I didn't link some of them...Speaking of the holds maybe breaking off, The hold on the arete from which to clip the first bolt is cracked back behind it and scares me a little. Check it out and consider stick-clipping bolt #1.
Jul 23, 2003
Man, I wish I were as weak as you guys...
Jul 11, 2003
I'm a weak Boulder climber and i have to say it felt like 12b/c to me. A very high quality route, nonetheless.
Jul 7, 2003
Pretty solid for 12c but definitely not 13a. However I have a feeling a few holds are going to break on this, especially the potato chip flake below the third bolt, in which case the rating will definitely jump.
Apr 11, 2003
Awesome route! Probably the best 12c in Boulder Canyon. Steep climbing leads to a reachy V4 crux. I would recommend a stiff boot! Good job Bob.
Dec 17, 2002
- Nerve Damage
You asked for a vote... Mine is leave it as is. Sack it up or don't do it (or just TR it). The route's name is "Nerve Damage"... you gotta expect some excitement!
Aug 13, 2008
My personal answer is that it is not a question so much for the community, but for Hare and Peisker, who did the route 22 years ago. But if you are collecting opinions, I think the route is fine. I question why you think retrobolting it is necessary? It is top-ropable already.
Aug 13, 2008
TR'd this line after leading the Scientist. that bolt is pretty darn high off the ground, and nary any good pro to be had before it. Once clipped, the climbing is fairly easy (for a tall strong guy) till pro is available. My question for the community is: Could another bolt or two be added to this route to create a safe (IMHO) 5.10 route for others to enjoy?
Aug 12, 2008
- Plotinus
In reference to "...despite needing a little weeding" , I give you this: When the farmer cleans out his ditches, I mourn the loss of many a flower which he calls a weed. -Henry David Throeau
Jul 25, 2003
- Rama
I stayed in the corner and stemmed all the way up. Seemed like one dicey move to get to the last bolt but it wasn't too bad. Above, I used one #1 Camalot and a gray Micro Camalot in the finger crack (.5?) My partner thought it was going to be a clip up and didn't bring any gear. She tied knots in slings and sent.
Nov 15, 2004
I stayed in the corner including the crack at the roof, but still consider it only 10c. Going out left at any point seems off route in a sport climbing sense anyway. I used a green (smallest) Splitter 2cam for the last section to the anchors. Get some if you still can!
Dec 8, 2003
Totally esthetic climbing, use good footwork straight up the corner past the bolts, then finger jam up the crack - awesome! Went well for me... hard 10? A handfull of small TCU's to Camalot Juniors, or stoppers if you prefer, are ample to protect the rest of this great climb.
Oct 18, 2003
The top needs narrow cams or RPs. Micro-Camalots are too wide to fit in the low profile crack up there. I consider myself crafty with gear, and I had all 4 micros... but I had to run it out. I had a ton of nuts in the crack/flake below though. A ledge-fall maybe, but not a grounder. I guess one has the option of stepping left and clipping bolts on The Scientist to finish there. Good line, but a little flakey still. Needs some more cleaning down low. I could have gone straight up the corner, but since I was already stemming to the left (might my right shoulder on the right wall), it seems natural that what's in for feet is in for hands, so if someone reaches out there, they'd seem on route to me. The climb felt like 10b.
Jul 23, 2003
Peter, your first comment above leads one to believe that if you don't have RPs, your only other option is to run it out. Not the case at all. Maybe you don't own Aliens but most of the Front Range climbers I know do own at least a set. Small TCUs, micro-Camalots and small stoppers would probably work fine as well.
Jul 15, 2003
As someone lacking a quiver of Aliens, I stand by my comment. The climbing may be easy but without trick (and expensive) gear it may feel exposed.
Jul 15, 2003
Stay in the corner if you want... Move left between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. I've done it both ways now and it doesn't matter how you do this pitch, it's a fine route. Probably my favorite on the crag so far (out of about 9). I'll agree it's a little contrived, and it's a committing clip for the 3rd bolt if you stay in the corner, but, fun either way. For the gear, no RP's needed. You can plug in the smallest thru the red alien in reverse order (starting with the red); all pretty bomber placements. One last note about this route: I find it pretty funky to get to the first bolt. If you blow the move and come off before the clip, you and your belayer could end up in the creek (far below) if said belayer isn't anchored in. Might be the same for any route along this sloping ledge but this is the only route I've climbed on this side of the wall. Be careful.
Jul 13, 2003
The ground to the left is just too close to be avoided on this route. I don't think you should rate the route by calling this stuff (two feet to the left and never out of arm's reach from the bolts) off limits. That's just too contrived to make sense. So, it's not 5.11. 10a might be a bit low, but a lot closer. Also, the gear section above the bolts is probably 5.8. I placed two yellow Aliens and a green Alien. I could have placed probably eight Aliens if I had wanted. This isn't dicey or thin. No need for RPs or even stoppers if you don't want them. Ray's idea to head right looks fun. A bit more rope drag that way, but probably no problem. This was a fun route, but too short. Cool moves in the dihedral and up the steep section.
Jul 11, 2003
This is certainly one of those routes which tempts with nearby easier ground, but you are still funneled into a steep section past the last bolt where most aspirants will certainly want to place some gear. The dicey upper section can easily be avoided by doing the soon-to-be-popular "Rama Dreaming" linkup. Power over the aforementioned section, place a good stopper, then shoot out right to the obvious bolt on Lucid Dreaming - it is maybe 5.9 to the chains, and all bolts.
Apr 11, 2003
I think if you follow the bolts directly up the corner, it's 5.11 but if you climb the obvious easy terrain to the left it's about 10a. This would be a really good moderate pitch except for some fairly thin pro up high. Bring RPs or run it out.
Apr 11, 2003
Guys...I like it a lot but if you're calling this 5.11 you might consider medication...S.K.
Nov 8, 2002
- Scientist, The
Not sure why you'd use "blue and green Aliens" over a bomber 0.5 Camalot placement in the horizontal/diagonal crack. Glad I brought one. At 5'6", this route felt substantially harder than 11a.
Sep 19, 2015
One of the best slab climbs around Boulder. A real gem. On par with Bearcat goes to Hollywood and longer than with similar quality as Prince of Darkness. The bolting, unsurprisingly considering the FA, is a bit strange. The first bolt is quite low, and blowing the second clip, although easy, will land you on a ledge. The bolting at the cruxy start is a bit spaced, while the bolting up higher on easier ground is quite close. The route could easily do with half as many bolts up higher and still be safe. Why? Why is it OK to take larger falls close to the ground on harder terrain, but smaller falls higher up where it is actually safe to fall? I may never know. At least Bob didn't put a bolt next to the crack like he has on other routes in the area. Although a blue Alien/purple Mastercam works in the crack, small to medium-size nuts are even better.
Jun 17, 2016
Could be one of the best slab climbs in the Front Range, but I don't believe this deserves the rating of 11a/b, even with placing a blue Alien, still felt along the lines of 10b/c, nonetheless, amazing climb. Post script, not knocking the climb, I think if you are shorter this could be a more strenuous climb, but there are really incredible feet as well as great finger chips to grab on the entire way...again, I think 10b/c.
Mar 28, 2016
There is currently a stuck cam in the crack. The wires are blown out, and you can´t get it out.
Jan 17, 2015
i was kind of surprised by the difficulty of this route. it has one of those stand up moves on one foot with no hands that i generally struggle with. a #1 camalot would work really well for protecting the diagonal crack. the smaller crack has some pods and some vegetation that might make it a little more tricky to get a good piece. like others have said, you could probably do without the gear, but it isn't a bad idea to go ahead and place it if you can.
Jul 18, 2012
This is one of the top slab routes in all of Boulder. This thing is amazing!! Very balancy with super tiny feet. Don't do it when it's hot or it will feel significantly harder. Amazing route, though. It keeps you on your toes to say the least.... Get 'er done!!!!!
Mar 23, 2011
This is a classic no matter the area, it's good to see smart bolting on a route in Boulder Canyon. Toward the top there is a ledge stance which kinda takes away from this being a five star route, but the bottom 2/3 has really fun slab moves. 11a.
Apr 15, 2007
Sweet Route BobD/Vaino!! I am one of those short persons, at 5'4". I had to make a shitty left foot smear to get to the left hand crimp (it took me a couple of tries high stepping w/ the right to figure this out). Then, the move to the crack I had to let go of the rock and just teeter over 'til I could make a last second thrutch for the crack. From the ground, we thought the roof would be most difficult, but after all the slabbing down low the roof felt easy on big holds. We didn't know what this route was named or graded before we tried it. That seemed to make it much more intimidating. Before my partner went up,I said that it was probably 11a/b. Good guess I guess ;-) I think that's pretty right on!!
Jun 23, 2006
For the average-height or less, average-to-heavier-than-average, average-to-less-than-average climber, smearing above the good foothold, this climb will beat up your left hand fingertips and you may get some blood blisters. Ow! Bring your slippers. Nonetheless, it is an aesthetic, intriguing sport climb. Kudos to the FAists!
Feb 7, 2006
I think this is a great route. I really like balancy slab routes and this one definitely fits this category. I think 11a is appropriate, especially for taller people. Moving at the second bolt requires a pretty far but decent left hand crimper. I'm 5'11'' and I barely reached it. My buddy was an inch shorter and he had to add a pretty crappy foot move. Just watch it as you're going for that really big ledge just before the anchors, some loose stuff there. I ripped off a hold and took a nice 15 footer, so be careful. Otherwise, highly recommended.
Jun 2, 2004
Great route. Tricky footwork gains the crux handhold. Glad to see there aren't bolts near the crack.
Mar 11, 2004
Fantastic climb, thanks Bob and Vaino. I had a raging calf-pump going by the time I reached the crack (I found the moves not only thin and balancy but difficult to decipher), and I was *very* happy to plug in a cam. I didn't think the moves to the next bolt were all that moderate! I also felt the climbing was quite similar to Gravity's Angel in Eldo--slightly harder, but fewer cruxes.
Aug 6, 2003
Perhaps I didn't do it as it was intended, but the fourth bolt seemed to pull me too far to the right. I moved left from the holds just over the small roof. Great climbing overall.
Jul 21, 2003
Slab-a-licious! Sticking in the gear in between the 2 and 3rd bolts is half the fun and quite welcome. Watch out for the loose rocks on the ledge when pulling the rope.
Jul 18, 2003
RE Tony's comment about the gear: If hanging off a jug and placing a small TCU feels like 5.10, the moves getting to the next bolt will definitely not feel like 5.8. This section isn't really s-rated climbing but feels a bit out of place considering the otherwise closely spaced bolts. I've done this route four or five times and consider placing the piece a lot more casual than going without.
Jul 15, 2003
Good climb if you like small crimping. Actually, pretty good climb if you don't, but you probably won't on-sight it- because that's what kind of climb it is. I like this route, which seemed to be a cosmic premeditated revenge upon me for downgrading everything else at the cliff. You are going to 'nickle and dime' your way up the route, so take the appropriate shoes. If you like thin climbing (Eldo climbers, think 'Gravity's Angel' or 'Prince of Darkness') and want a bolt at your chest for the crux, this is 2*'s if you don't like thin stuff, it's one. Harder than Bobsled, Sleepless in Boulder, Tooth Fairy, etc... At 5'10" and even with a +6" ape index, I was 2" from the crux hold from the good stance, so I still had to do a significant move. I toe hooked and went sideways to hit it static with the right (wrong) hand and had to piano switch to get to the big move right. I was wearing shoes that my foot literally hangs out the side of... but I think it's hard in any shoes- maybe VERY HARD for shorter people. If all you brought was draws and no gear- no fear. The moves above where you'd make the placement are not that hard and the distance to the next bolt is not severe. This line goes pretty mellow without any trad gear. It's still not S. I took a cam at the suggestion of a pal, but it was easier to do 5.8 move than to try to place the cam and clip it from a 5.10 stance since the bolt was just left of my feet.
Jul 11, 2003
This route is truly one of the best slab climbs in the area. Bring one thin finger-size piece for the crack or face a fairly scary but moderate stretch for the third bolt. Superb rock and excellent climbing, only slightly marred by the last ledge. A must-do.
Mar 17, 2003
- Right Side
- Boulder Quartz System
This climb has been one of my favorites, having climbed it many times. The amazing quartz system followed by steep climbing through a strenuous bulge offers some of the best climbing in Lower Dream Canyon. I just repeated it & didn't find a loose sidepull. I am assuming Eric is talking about the good lieback hold in the shallow crack system that you clip the 5th bolt from. At this point, there are two ways to go. I go left to a flat edge then up to the undercling flake. It also goes up slightly right & then underclings back left. As for the belayer, don't tie in with a daisy chain to the belay bolt. I tie in to the belay bolt with the end of the rope & 8-10 feet of slack, so I can stand directly below the 1st protection bolt. This way you are out of the line of fire should anything break.
Apr 10, 2016
The last good right sidepull (right before the real business), feels like it's gonna break -- it doesn't move, but I could hear/feel this thing feeling like it's ready to blow. It would suck if this hold broke, because it could not only make this climb much harder, but worse is that the bolt at the bottom for your belayer to tie into would be right in the line of fire. Basically, I would recommend not belaying off the convenience bolt or at the very least protect your noggin'. Anyways, this climb rules, have fun!
Mar 13, 2016
What a neat route. The climbing on this is really fun, the quartz cubes are unique. Very well-protected and the moves flow nicely. After getting through the first part of the crux, I thought it was in the bag, but it keeps a consistent level of difficulty for a bit. I could see 11d or 12a either way without too much argument. Might be easier on a cool dry day. Highly recommended. Easiest way to get your draws back is to TR it and clean on the way up. I tried to grab them on the way down, but the route is steep and traverses a fair amount.
Aug 1, 2012
I managed two unlikely tasks- somehow climbing past the crux bolt, mandating a sketchy reach down and left to clip, and then getting the rope stuck when I pulled it down! Neither recommended. Nevertheless a fascinating geological feature, a must climb for that reason alone.
Apr 17, 2012
Having ticked pretty much all routes at Plotinus Wall, this is the one of the last that I did today. Very interesting and easy climbing all the way up to the crux. You can get a good rest right before the crux and the first half of the route in the quartz-filled corner can be made significantly easier if you get creative with the stemming and liebacking. The crux has some funky high undercling moves that felt a bit desperate, but fun and well bolted. I used a hold out right and did a gaston to reach the undercling easier. I completely missed this hold my first time on the route but felt significantly easier the second time when I found it. Overall, a great route. As other people have said, it's gonna take some time to clean up since it's fairly new. Some of the quartz foot holds seem rotten and I had a buddy bring down a fairly large-sized block in the last month or so. So, be careful on the belay! Enjoy....
Apr 23, 2011
Finally a repoint!!! Couldn't even do the moves last fall. One guy in our party knocked some very large crystals down, so be careful here belaying or sitting under someone climbing. For me, this is 5.9/5.10 climbing to a long, "The Spot Bouldering Gym" like problem. Powerful, fun climbing. All the falls at the crux are clean...believe me I've tested them all.
May 29, 2008
What can I say... A Boulder Canyon personal classic. Great moves over a beautiful stream in a nice setting - what more could a bolt clipper ask for. Bah. Started climbing at Lower Dream last year and always wanted to get the Quartz System without falling. Today was the day.
Mar 19, 2008
Wow! What a cool feature! Felt more like mid 11 than 12a. All very easy climbing to a couple 5.11 moves. This felt miles easier than other 12a classics like Grand Inquisitor and Arms Bazaar.
Jan 2, 2007
Thoughtful and pumpy climbing up a unique geologic feature.
Jun 6, 2005
I found the clip right after getting out of the quartz to be really difficult and tenuous. Maybe I was clipping from the wrong stance, but it just seemed like there was one good edge off to the left you use to get out of the crack, and then a dicey stance to clip from... It'll go soon (I hate having to always say that :)
Nov 15, 2004
An instant classic!
Sep 11, 2003
Good climb. As Dougald said, this climb seems to be unique in the area. I've personally never climbed anything like it. nickle to fist-sized chunks of quartz litter the ground below, and the system in and of itself is going through a diagonal swath of quartz 6 feet wide. Somewhat of a surprise that the miners didin't get into that years ago, as quartz bands are usually co-located with sought-after minerals and metals... A few small quartz flakes blew out under my feet, and under the feet of Peter, who followed it. Nothing large or dangerous, and nothing that caused a fall. The climb is still cleaning up and it will take some time, but the significant holds are pretty solid already. That said, the route is fun. The crux comes when you step out of the quartz onto the granite underclings, then up and over. The feet are hard to find and the moves extended enough to be a gut-buster. The 'crux move' is a "a hold must have broke off" move now, although that made the climb easier, not harder. On my ascent I tried to pinch a little flake under the sloping undercling -- it moved significantly (nice fall produced). I went back up to it and removed it completely with a simple pull. The crux hold is actually now more secure/square. I have to give it an extra star for the overall oddity. The moves alone are 3-star, but the climb goes into a bonus round for the rock. Easier now that the crux hold changed.
Jul 21, 2003
I'm surprised this route doesn't get more raves. I thought it was excellent! The diagonal traverse up the quartz dike is unique in the canyon, and the crux is very interesting. Hint: It seemed easier to me to start the crux up and right, then move back left.
Jul 10, 2003
- Counting Sheep
Fun climbing to an intimidating move at the roof (second bolt). Go for it, because it is well protected and there are jugs above.
Sep 29, 2003
Good mixed climb. Bottom 2/3 eats stoppers or cams. Good fun. If the trad line wne the whole way, it would be of a more continuous style and thus a better climb, or the same may be said if the top 1/3 of sport were more continuous, but neither of those is what nature gave us, so the extended nature of the two combined offer the best option.THe climb has a single crux of ~10+/11- climbing and then a balancy move up top, where a tiny TCU can add 1 pcs pro (if you are squeemish) but the fall would be safe anyway. Borderline 2-stars. I likes it, but the bottom still neads some cleaning. Otherwise 5.10... but for a "one-move-wonder" 5.11a crux.
Jul 21, 2003
Underappreciated but a bit overrated: 2 star quality, 1 move 5.11-,SK.
Dec 2, 2002
- Sleep Deprivation
Traversing back to the left at the top made no sense to me. A separate anchor at the top on the right, with possibly one more bolt (but probably not needed) seems a more fitting ending.
Apr 22, 2007
Young Doug-If you start by clipping the 1st bolt on S.D., and head straight up past a patina-like knob, it is better than messing with the corner at the start of the pitch. used a tcu in the horizontal crack to protect the awkward moves onto the face.
Aug 30, 2005
There's a new(?) two bolt anchor at the foot of the Sominex/Sleep Deprivation Slab. It can be reached by a short trad pitch beginning on the Rama-to-Sleep Deprivation traverse ledge or, as Peter suggests, by third-classing up and left from the far right side of the traverse ledge. The two bolts to the right of the anchor are the start (and crux) of Sleep Deprivation, not Sominex. Sominex starts in the left-facing, roof-capped corner left of the anchor. There's a good I 1/2 Friend placement in the horizontal crack that extends right from the edge of the roof . After placing the piece, step up and right to clip the first bolt on Sominex.
Oct 23, 2003
Is the bolt line on Sleep Deprivation supposed to be completely separate from the bolt line on Sominex? My partner clipped the first two bolts of Sominex, then branched right to Sleep Deprivation, clipping 6 bolts in all.
Oct 17, 2003
I'd like to second that. Doing these routes in one long lead is asking for heinous rope drag. It's probably better to go up easy looking rock to the right (fixed sling?) and set up a belay. I did the 11 to the left in one pitch and it was pretty grim. Not a bad route but it would be better without the starting section to the ledge.
Jul 23, 2003
It made the most sense to us to start from the huge ledge below the slab. While the holds are all there, the climbing is tricky to sort out. Very fun climbing on a short but great slab.
Jul 21, 2003
- Sominex
I second Chad's observations about the climbing. Both crux sequences are pretty devious. On-sight, it felt more like .11c than .11b.
Oct 23, 2003
We started from the ledge below the slab (scrambled up from the right side). While perhaps missing some fun crack climbing below, the ledge is huge and really breaks this climb into two sections. The rock is interesting and takes a liitle searching to find the holds/ sequence.
Jul 21, 2003
- Tooth and Nail
Rock quality isn't the best - don't need any gear either - enough bolts to protect adequately.
Apr 8, 2013
Still pretty scruffy. Not a bad climb. The 'nail' is kind of cool.
Apr 17, 2012
This route is actually quite good, w/ a little more traffic the munge on the slab will clean up and the last few little flaky chips will get pulled off. Getting to the first bolt is easily protected w/ either small cams or wires.
Jan 31, 2009
No really hard moves, but some insecurity and continuous difficulty lead to a pretty good pump. Not a good warm up. Pretty good. Not as good as others at the cliff. I'd repeat others first. Rating given with pump factor in mind. I also used more friction-moves than some other routes at the cliff.
Jul 21, 2003
- Universal Crusher Rock
- Wall of Winter Warmth
- Alpha-Bob
Super short crux, but fun! It's a small pitch, but it packs in a good punch. If you're back here hanging out, definitely try it out.
Nov 5, 2016
At first glance, this route looks like a piece of Sh&* compared to all of the amazing rock formations around it including Plotinus Wall, Berlin Wall, and Wall of Winter Warmth. However, this climb is actually really fun on bullet hard/ near perfect granite. This is really fun slab climbing that will test out your skills of smearing and standing on nothing and also having virtually no hand holds throughout the middle. I was quite impressed with the quality of this route despite it not getting very high ratings or looking that impressive from the ground. I guarantee if you do it you will think differently as well. In fact, the only reason I even got on the route is because my buddy got shut down on the last bolt before the anchor. I have also seen bail biners on numerous occasions on the same bolt that my buddy bailed on. I still managed to get the onsight, though! The key hear is to trust your feet. Cooler temps are probably a must, as this would probably climb more like 12+ in hot conditions. If you are in the area or headed to Wall of Winter Warmth or Berlin Wall, it's worth getting on. Get on it and Get-er done....
May 1, 2011
- Angle of Repose
In contrast to the comment by J. Albers above, I suspect that most local climbers are NOT at all in agreement with bolting next to established lines, and especially run out classics like Left Side. Actions like this are generally considered tasteless and not OK. Many routes done in Boulder Canyon are offensive to many climbers, including bolting next to excellent cracks or other good natural protection, bolting too close to established lines, and chipping and gluing holds. Fortunately, places like Eldorado Canyon and the Flatirons have bolt review committees that engage the public and confirm that the community interests are well-served. It would be nice if climbers could organize and get involved with community oversight of new routes in Boulder Canyon, to help keep things reasonable and in the consensus of the community.
Jun 19, 2016
^^^^ How about you ask the community before you unilaterally start removing bolts? How much do you want to bet that the majority of the community wants you to refrain from touching AoR at all? This route has been up for over fifteen years and is by and large considered a classic route, and then all of a sudden you -- who was less than ten years old when it was put up -- has decided that they need to "fix" this terrible wrong. Really? Please leave the route as is. And just FYI, I am guessing that nobody is going to give you Bob D's contact info. Wanna know why? I'll let you in on a little secret....Bob removed himself from the website years ago because of conflicts like the one you are inevitably starting here in the comments section of AoR. Seriously, I am not trying to belittle you because of your age, but perhaps give a little thought to the possibility that other more senior people in the community have considered the value (or lack thereof) of the bolts on AoR and decided to leave it alone. In other words, perhaps you should defer to the judgement of folks who have been around a bit longer instead of assuming that your judgement is novel, justified, and appreciated.
Jun 17, 2016
Does anybody have contact information for Bob D'Antonio? I would like to have a chat with him about his first ascents and about the bolts on Angle of Repose that overlap with Left Side. I am confused as to why a bolted route was put up which obviously crosses a well-traveled traditional route, and would like to discuss options for restoring Left Side to a more fitting state. I have a hard time considering a route which shares rock with another older route a legitimate first ascent but would like to give due consideration to Bob before taking action, even if I disagree with his tactics. Your help is appreciated.
Jun 17, 2016
I agree with Drew's comments. We'd been challenged by the classic Left Side, with its devious moves and relatively sparse pro, when all of a sudden I ran into bolts, so close I could clip them from the crack feature I was working my way up, around the middle of the 3rd pitch. Very weak to have a bolted sport route force its way right into a tricky section of a good trad route. Not only these two bolts next to the crack but also the anchor bolts, which totally change the character of that part of Left Side. Disappointing.
Feb 17, 2013
I've climbed the 1st pitch and the dyno is slightly Sharma-esque. 5' leap to a glued on jug... total Hollywood move! good luck.... I'm very disappointed where the anchors were placed on top of the 2nd pitch. The 2-bolt anchor has DEFACED! the classic 3rd pitch of the "LEFT SIDE" route. The 3rd pitch of the "Left Side" climbs that airy traverse above the lip of the huge roof and up an awesome 5.9 crack. At the top of the 5.9 crack, used to be a heady friction move, to gain the roof above where you can get gear to continue to the top. NOW, at the top of the crack there are 2 bolts right in front of your face. Instead of leaving the crack, with a nut below your feet, and smearing moves to the roof... There has been 2 bolts thoughtlessly placed in the middle of a CLASSIC ROUTE. I know Boulder Canyon is a great place for thoughtlessly placed bolts and I should get over it BUT.......this is unacceptable! I wish people would think before they drill....
Oct 16, 2009
Ya like Wallace Stegner do ya?
Mar 26, 2005
Great route. Angle of Repose is an excellent descriptor for the moves on the 2nd pitch. Not many hand-holds on that pitch -- when you get a 1/4 inch edge it feels like a jug. We did a (new?) bolted route as the approach pitch that starts at the big pine tree to the right of the 5.9 slot. Climb past 4 bolts and then traverse up and left towards the base of Angle of Repose. You can also sling a horn midway so that you can do the approach pitch with no gear.
May 7, 2004
Pretty nice climb. Its on the west face, so it not as warm as you might hope given the formation's name. The two pitches are very different in character... the first, steep and juggy, with the second, slabby with friction being key. V3? dyno to start the first pitch. I thought overall, the second pitch was unquestionably harder than the first, especially with the fact that the two cruxy sections involve friction on quite flakey/licheny rock.Weird moves. Solid 12a, I thought, though with some more cleaning the friction might be more reasonable. Watch the ends of your rope if you rap from the top of P2 to base of P1, and also on the rap down to the ledges at the base. Small rack of cams with a #1 and #2 Camalot for the 5.9 approach slot.
Mar 12, 2004
We accessed this route by climbing the Berlin Wall (Fall of the Wall), and then downclimbing the gully to the start. There is a two bolt anchor setup above 'fall of the wall' for rappells back down (need slings replaced.) Great route, although a little crumbly. Have your belayer wear sunglasses.
Aug 1, 2003
While P1 and P2 are quite different in character, I'd agree with rating them at about the same level, about 5.12a.
Sep 30, 2002
If there was a Pulitzer Prize for routes, I'd nominate Bob D'Antonio for finding things that are classic in ground already well traveled. Now with that preface, I'd have to say that Angle of Repose, while a very interesting route, is also one of the weirdest routes in Boulder Canyon. On the one hand, it is very appealing because over its three pitches it seems to be going somewhere - a bit unusual for a sport route. On the other hand, it has some pretty weird sequences. The approach is the trad line "The Slot" which at 5.9 seemed stout for the grade, and it needs a double bolt anchor at the lower ledge for rappel purposes. Angle of Repose proper begins from a double-bolt stance at the top of The Slot and above a stunningly loose and cobble-filled slot. This is a warning to be careful!! P1 of Angle of Repose starts with a nice ballistic dyno to a very sharp edge that has been glued back in place (N.B. we filed off the sharpest part of the edge). This is followed by a reachy gaston and some pumpy moves in largely juggy, interesting terrain. Cop a rest between moves and this comes together nicely. P2 is the weirdness. It took a bit to suss out the beta, shortly after the start, which is a tad inobvious, and I won't give it away. Things got a bit weird again somewhere near the 30' mark where we went up to a clip and then dropped back down for half a dozen feet to set up a traverse left on disappearing feet that coupled with a totter onto a good fin. Swim up the small fin to a nearly invisible jug and pull into a shallow corner for the route's only significant runout. And it's all 5.7 after that. I'd go with three stars (two for the route, one for the weirdness) as well. Good solid rock, although it needs some serious flake removal, nicely designed pro, and a killer setting. The unusual hangers look as though you could rap from almost any point without fear of trashing the rope. The slightly surrealistic turrets at the top add to the line's appeal. Kudos to Bob and Vaino.
Sep 29, 2002
- Bed Hog
Amazing climb. The approach is a little more of a hassle than most BoCan cliffs, but not by much. We climbed the first pitch of Mordor then scrambled another 40 feet to the base, where there's a decent belay ledge. Alternatively, you can scramble in from the side at low, albeit loose, fifth-class. In early December, it's in the sun from about 10am until 2pm. Great work Pat, Duncan, and Steve!
Dec 2, 2012
Killer route, big headwall looming over the canyon, hard boulder-problem crux. If you want to bring a pared-down rack, we had: For belay at base, Metolius red, big stopper, Metolius green (black would work OK, too) To get to first bolt: Metolius yellow, then black, then orange Metolius orange between second and third bolts. Good eye on the FA!
Dec 2, 2012
- Closed Open Space
This is a good alternative to The Slit to approach the Left Side, Direct Cop Out, etc. routes.
Jan 9, 2005
If you think the mantle is way hard for 5.9 (as I do) you can climb the easier 10+/11- slab to the right or climb the corner on the left and step right to the first bolt.
Jan 9, 2005
Hey, there's another Closed Open Space at Ralston Buttes in Jeffco too. This must be some kind of trend. Overpaid and overstaffed county agencies keeping us out of their private parks......
May 30, 2003
- Direct Cop Out
The 1/4" lead bolts have been replaced. From the look of it, this 'horrible old bolt' on P2 has been cracked in half for a very long time. Worthless. New bolt is in the same hole. 1/4" bolt from below P2 crux.
Nov 10, 2016
Very fun route! I rope soloed it all on gear. The first pitch is super fun and no need for the bolts, the bolts make it out of character with the rest of the route, but whatever. There are short crux sections with tons of no hands rest and plenty of gear opportunities. A standard rack to a #3 is plenty, but I did find having a set of offset master cams very helpful. Each pitch has different climbing and cool holds (chickenheads, jugs, perfect layback flake, thin face). I approached from the Upper Dream lot, working down to the river, and to the base. It's a short walk back to the car from the top, just watch for private property lines. Do it!
Nov 16, 2013
Greg, you can do it all sport or all trad, including the belay anchors trad. There was a big flame war about this when Bob D. first did it. All related comments were removed, I thought, but now I see my comments from that time (maybe only I see them?). Bob D's comments are not there. It's fun either way.
Nov 14, 2013
Seems like there isn't to much constructive info on this page, so what kind of gear do you need for this?
Nov 13, 2013
This is a fun route with the most interesting moves comparable in quality with the route "Left Side" on this same formation. When I climbed it, P1 was protected entirely by good bolts and P2 was protected by newish bolts at the upper crux. I found it exciting that the lower crux traverse section (just one or two steps) has to be protected by small cams and a horrible old bolt.
Oct 27, 2013
I'm not sure what it means. I guess that's why I made the post. I was wondering if he (Vaino) removed the route from his website because he removed the bolts. Just curious what happened.... Regardless of who did the FA of this route, I rather enjoyed it. You recommended the route to me several months ago (maybe a year?) when we met at the Eldo Market while drinking coffee.
Mar 25, 2005
He must be a strong, well-balanced individual who can accept criticism.
Mar 25, 2005
Hmmm, this route no longer appears on Vaino's website...
Mar 25, 2005
Well, Bob, unless someone is crazy enough to take over this site (I hope someone is...), you can finally put up routes in peace. I've always enjoyed your work and would like to say thanks. To all you ACs out there, you'll have to go find a new site to slowly degrade. SuperTaco's pretty racy I hear!
Mar 24, 2005
Hey, this website has turned into a big pile of crap because of discussions like this. It's hard to find any useful knowledge about many routes cause of all of these ethics debates. If anyone does take over this site I pray that they can save it from you nutjobs. Here is an idea, go climbing, come back home rest and reflect and when your fingers have the strength, type up some good info on the routes you did. Let people know the conditions, how the route was, rap stations,,, stuff like that. Do you guys wonder why the site moderator is calling it quits right after he complained about receiving 600 emails from tattletales about jerks. I am glad I don't live on the Front Range with all you pc lunatics who ruin everything that is supposed to be good with your arguments about what is right and wrong within your little climbing community. There are other things out there to ruin too. You people should be politicians not climbers!
Mar 24, 2005
Another go-nowhere thread on a go-nowhere topic. Nobody is going to agree on this folks- haven't we learned that lesson? For example, let me argue both sides on a couple of issues. To start, let me argue the route had been done before, and counter some of Bob's points regarding consulting with local authorities, and the condition he perceived the line to be in when he first got on it:: Although Jim, Richard, and others are indeed authorities on local climbing, nobody holds the crystal ball recording every passage of every potential line on every crag. Furthermore, dirt, lichen, loose rock etc. on a line is in no way conclusive evidence that the line is unclimbed- have you ever climbed in the Black Canyon, or even on some of the obscure pitches in Eldo? By the same token, the absence of fixed gear, or even a lack of suitable cracks in which to place removeable gear doesn't mean you are on virgin rock (people were onsight soloing FAs of 5.10 in the '70s, if you recall). Nor does a tired statement like "we cleaned all the protection placements when we did the route" mean much; any competent trad leader on fuzzy rock knows how to clean placements out of dirty cracks. If Bob is saying he cleaned these placements with a more aggressive methodology, I would then accuse him of chipping the route. Indeed, the complete lack of any sign of passage does not indicate the line is virgin. Now let me argue Bob's point that he did the FA of this route: If a particular line has never been reported or documented in a guidebook or website, and prolific local climbers are unaware of the route- if indeed there is a complete absence of information in any form regarding it- and if first hand observation leads an experienced (potential) first ascent party to believe the line has not been climbed, long-held climbing protocol legitimizes calling a (potential) ascent the First Ascent. How about arguing style and bolt placements/locations of a FA? A first ascent may be approached in any of several styles: ground up with traditional gear, as a rehearsed headpoint, ground-up using bolts, cleaning and placing bolts on rappel, or as a free solo. Each of these approaches is legitimate, but take your pick, it would be easy to find fault (or logic) in any of them. How about bolt placements regarding this route? The "modern" approach to establishing bolted climbs often entails following a line that may or may not be as direct, logical, or in any way similar to one chosen by a climber onsighting with a rack of cams and wires. Often, when putting in a bolted line a climber will choose the more direct, cleaner, and often more sustained path. This results in many fine sport climbs that present future climbers with the ingredients- difficulty, deviousness, problem solving, a killer pump- that make sport climbing so appealing and popular. But what about those pesky trad climbers? Well, from the strict traditionalist's perspective, the result (of the aforementioned sport-bolted line) may be a less "natural", overbolted, contrived, worthless tripe heap. It may offend their sensibilities, esthetics, or their belief that rock is a limited resource, that style is critical, i.e. the whole argument that climbing is more than gymnastic movement, that it entails risk and calculation, etc., etc. So, here we have another round robin go-nowhere argument with people getting a little too worked up. I understand Ivan's logical argument. I understand Bob's defense of his route. In this specific example, a route was climbed in the '70s by someone who did not report it (I would give Ken et al full credit for their statements...innocent until proved guilty, eh?). Then, 25 friggin' years later, a potentially popular sport climb has been established on this small crag in a heavily traveled climbing area. Not everyone will dig this route, but many certainly will. This route is insignificant, folks. Follow the Middle Path- there will never be agreement between either side of a debate perpetuated by those who hold their personal beliefs infallible, who are unyielding, who believe they are "right". There are many fine climbs to do in Boulder Canyon- both traditional and sport. If you find some bolted route offensive because you personally can eliminate clips, by all means feel offended, skip the clips and finish the climb. Then walk away. Likewise, if you find some under-protected traditional climb offensive because, in your view, it is dangerous and foolish, respect someone else's foolishness (i.e. do not retro bolt the line), walk away and find something else to climb. Fortunately, Boulder Canyon has a rich tradition in both traditional and sport climbing, and there is a ton to climb there. Get out there and climb, and have a safe and fantastic time doing it. Nobody is right here, folks. Apples and oranges. I really liked the post a while back suggesting the "mixed" rack approach to climbs, and questioning why this did not happen in B. Cyn. If there is gear, don't place a bolt, and record it as a mixed route so people will carry gear on it (several routes on Easter, Bell etc could be done this way). Oh well, who knows....
Mar 21, 2005
For what it is worth, I would advise Bob D. to believe Ken's account of his climbing. While he was my partner, he was not only always honest about his abilities but of his previous experiences; which were many I guarantee! It's a wonder Ken didn't document the very days (yes, plural) he spent on this route in the past, since like most climbers, he kept quite accurate diaries of his adventures. Overall, a very competent climber at the 5.10 level on traditional routes in the past, he now seems to be doing some harder routes while enjoying the security of some of the newer bolted routes. Also; I will attest to the Platte being a very special place to both Ken and myself and believe Ken when he said he had nothing to do with Bucksnort.
Mar 20, 2005
To beat this dead horse again...Bob's 1st pitch variation is better than the old obscure way of traversing in from the far right, overbolted or not. Regardless of the bolt placements or who did the 1st free ascent of the sentrybox this is a great pitch. Bobby D's all right with me....
Mar 20, 2005
Bob said: Funny how Ivan can critique and criticize these new routes with the luxury of fixed protection in place. Doesn't matter if he use the gear or not, just knowing it is there and available makes it so much easier. That may be true in general, but on Direct Copout the new bolts are in places that are totally unnecessary. P1 is ridiculous. The gear is excellent. P2 the new bolts are at the belay (is Bob suggesting we could quickly clip the new bolt as the belay is failing?), and at the crux where there is excellent gear a few feet below and decent although small gear almost even with the bolts. The only place the gear is the least bit sketchy is at the traverse right past the old bolt and the next move or two up, and, for some reason, Bob and Co. did not place a new bolt here. Ivan
Mar 19, 2005
I must confess to a bit of confusion here. Maybe I'm missing something, but from reading Bob D's own description, it sounds as though there was fixed protection already in place on every pitch when he first climbed the route on the alleged first ascent. Bob, or anyone, if your ascent truly was the first, then what would explain the presence of the old bolts? Why wouldn't you just assume that the route had previously been climbed. The bolts don't sounds like rap anchors. I'm not trying to be a jerk, I'm just curious. Also, just an FYI, I'm writing from the Boulder Library, so it would be a waste of anyone's time to try to trace my identity.
Mar 18, 2005
This is a fun route.
Mar 18, 2005
I think it's silly that there aren't more mixed sport/trad routes in Boulder Canyon. The rock is very fitting for it, with some cracks and some faces. I know there are some crack-routes around that have bolts, with the argument that "it is a sport area, and some people wouldn't know to bring gear" and there are trad routes that are run out because no one wants them to be mixed seems silly. I've been to sport areas where cracks are left alone, and discontinuous routes become "mixed" with some trad pro and some bolts. It seems to work very well, the routes are described as mixed in the guides, and everyone who can't place a nut steers clear. I am not anti bolt or pro bolt, I think there is a grey area we are all missing. Why not have more mixed routes? Also, if the ascentionists (1st, last, 1st in 20 years, etc.) had to clean a bunch of lichen and loose choss, it would be fitting for them to think they were the first. I'm surprised that Ken H. isn't devoting his attention to "Rosy Cruxifiction" or other Eldo routes with bolts. It would seem like a better place to cry about than Boulder Canyon or the S. Platte.
Mar 17, 2005
This ethical debate is interesting, but I don't want to get involved. However, it seems that Ken's accidental use of a period instead of a comma in his first post has opened him to wide ridicule for suggesting that sport-climbing existed in 1978. Read the sentence with the comma instead of the period; it makes perfect sense and is nothing to get excited about. Save that for the actual issues.
Mar 17, 2005
It has come to light that the person who removed the bolts from Bucksnort Slab is Ken H.
Mar 17, 2005
Ken, as stated before, there were NO sport climbing areas in the US in 1978, and bolt proliferation was hardly an issue as well. Ken, your story regarding your background and experience has undermined your credibility to say the least. Fortunately, you can still be a success in the world without credibility on this website. It's safe to say a lot of us will be tuning your contributions out from here on out. Thanks for playing.
Mar 17, 2005
D'Antonio-bashing has almost become an art form. Disguising your anti-bolt proliferation philosophy by making a retrobolt argument is pathetic. If you're going to say things like that, you better be willing to stand up and say who, what, when, where, how, etc. Bob has committed to take the bolts out if you do. So do it ... if you can. If you can't, STFU.
Mar 15, 2005
I liked the crux on this, it has cool moves and has an old school feel,
Mar 15, 2005
Actions speak louder than words, add a wrench to your trad rack and stop posting about it.
Mar 14, 2005
The new bolts placed on this route are unnecessary and detract from the quality of the climb. Since when has it been acceptable to spray new bolts next to cracks on already established trad lines? I climbed this route without clipping any of the new bolts and felt perfectly safe. I'm surprised those bolts haven't been removed yet. I know those bolts might be an old subject, but I just climbed the route yesterday and was pissed to see such a cool line get "modernized". I think the bolts should go!
Mar 13, 2005
Ivan. Chuck & Ken; like I said ; "90% trad".... Guess Bob will have to scratch this one from his FAs. Granted the 10% sport on Direct Cop Out is definitely his. Who's this cowboy Mugatu?
Jan 12, 2005
Hi Bob, I still agree with Ivan that this is a bolted trad route. Ken H.
Jan 11, 2005
This is a fun route.
Jan 11, 2005
OK, Bob. End of discussion. To you "trad" means ground up hauling a Bosch. Interesting definition. My language was imprecise. I should have said, "it should have been done without bolts" rather than "it should have been trad". I will not apologize, since I'm sure you knew what I meant, and are twisting the words as you often do.
Jan 10, 2005
Bob says: "...it was done trad". Of course, I did it trad. Are you saying you did it first trad and then added the bolts later? And that therefore the bolts are OK? Or what? And, Bob, what about those old bolts? Didn't you retrobolt an existing (mostly) trad line? Perhaps adding a minor variation. Or not.
Jan 10, 2005
Good route, but it should have been trad. We climbed it without clipping any of the bolts, with the only gear difficulty being in the vicinity of the old bolt in the middle of P2. P1 has excellent gear near the bolts, except that pulling the ceiling the gear is underneath and a bit left. But the holds are huge, and it would be nearly impossible to fall, besides being only about 5.8. The old bolt at the belay directly above the ceiling may indicate that this obvious pitch (obvious due to the big horn at the lip) may have been climbed before. The P1 belay gear was 3 micro cams, a 0.5 Camalot, and a medium nut, all excellent. However they are all in a 6" section of crack, so the anchor might seem a bit unnerving given the difficult climbing above. Perhaps one new bolt at this belay would have made sense, especially since it could be justified as replacing the existing 1/4" bolt. P2 is a a tad spicy and trad (no old or new bolts) until a step right at an old 1/4" bolt. Had I clipped this bolt, I would have much preferred this bolt be replaced rather than placing the 2 new bolts higher up. Hard moves gain a finger crack right of this old bolt and fair-to-good gear gets you to a good stance at the steep right-facing corner. There are 2 new bolts here, both unnecessary. There is excellent gear below the lower bolt, and a good but small brass nut just a little lower than the upper bolt. The crux moves here are perplexing. You could escape left below the roof to a big jug or perhaps escape right. Where did the people that placed that 1/4" bolt go? And how much of this pitch is new, given the existence of that old bolt? P3 is moderate and somewhat runout until you get to the right-facing flake. You can climb at the old bolt up and left of the belay (gear opportunities), or climb more naturally directly above the belay and then move left. The right-facing corner has excellent gear and is quite moderate with good stances. 5.8 or easy 9. Above the ceiling, though, it's very runout on humps, but maybe only 5.6 or 5.7. It may be possible to climb left or right on easier ground. The descent gully pretty much sucks. Very loose.
Jan 9, 2005
- Escutcheon
- Leader of the Pack
11c/d, eh? Man, I must have been climbing like shit! It felt every bit as hard as the mantle on Earth Voyage.
Sep 25, 2002
- Left Side
Does anybody have contact information for Bob D'Antonio? I would like to have a chat with him about his first ascents and about the bolts on Angle of Repose that overlap with Left Side. I am confused as to why a bolted route was put up which obviously crosses a well-traveled traditional route, and would like to discuss options for restoring Left Side to a more fitting state. I have a hard time considering a route which shares rock with another older route a legitimate first ascent but would like to give due consideration to Bob before taking action, even if I disagree with his tactics. Your help is appreciated.
Jun 17, 2016
The Black Groove was bone dry today.
Feb 7, 2015
The only part where this is above 5.9, in my opinion, is the very beginning of the crux pitch cranking into the black streak crack/slot system. The rest, is absolutely incredible climbing with tricky moves, amazing exposure, and good pro. I'm not sure why there are bolts behind the tree with the cord, it doesn't allow you to reach the ground after two raps. I rapped off the bolts under the roof at the top of the last pitch and got back to the ground with three raps.
Jan 19, 2013
I'm 6'4" tall, the opening "crux" on P1 at the base of the black slit was hard, very hard for my size. Newt made it look clean and easy, I felt like a beached whale. Keep in mind it was hard to hear over the water, and the idiots yelling at the creek while we were trying to communicate. I will go back, its a great/tricky first set of moves, just be safe. Postscript: I finally made use of my partner's ball-nuts in the pin crack at the base of the slit, it was actually bomber placement.
Sep 12, 2011
I can't say enough good things about this climb. Its truly an adventure. First of all, you can't figure how the %^ to pull the black streak without breaking your ankles. Then you can't figure out how to get up/out of the black streak. Then the second(third depending on how you're doing it) pitch comes and there is some thin gear on your left and reasonably incut holds until a stemmy/balancey move out right to some jugs then a fun traverse back to the anchor ledge out left. Then pull the roof and find yourself out on a face with four different possible paths and infinite combinations. Just start climbing and plugging gear where you can. There are some mildly large runouts on the easier third(4th) pitch, so be solid. And have fun!
Apr 26, 2009
This is a fun route. Get on it. The rock gets plenty of sun in the late morning. We got way lost, but it was one of the coolest experiences of my life. Felt like a big wall because of the exposure.
Feb 7, 2009
LOST WALLET TODAY 4/5/07 At either base of The Slit or at the Pine Tree below the WWW. Please call 917 751 4955 If found. There is no money in it... but I'll buy ya a six pack of your favorite if you get it back to me safe and sound. -Nick Edited: March 10th, 2008 I have to admit this, and hopefully the few who read it will grasp the humor associated with it. Upon my return from a climbing trip to Alaska's smaller mountains, I was cleaning out my alpine pack, which I had used the day I thought I lost my wallet. The large pocket where I usually keep my hydration bladder was a place I seldom swept my hand in, because it was usually wet, with perspiration from my my bladder. In any event, I plunged my arm deep into the pocket and a distantly familiar object inside made me gleam...I am a fucking idiot. My wallet had traveled with me on every ascent I had made on our three week trip. Talk about extra weight...
Apr 5, 2007
Every pitch is fun with good moves. Pitch three is the money pitch. Pitch two was tough climbing through the black roof (green and yellow Alien). The exposure on pitch four is awesome-tricky gear placements over good air made this pitch exciting and heart pounding!
Mar 1, 2005
I'm serious! The Black Groove is really hard and treacherous, and I was following. You have to struggle with the gear, because it's continually hard after you step off a big block which you don't want to land on. The 1980 Erickson Rocky Heights guide says, "Chimney up the slot to a tree, 5.8".(!) He calls the second pitch 8+. Pitch 2 was very good. You need to make a few moves above your gear, and it's confusing which of the two corners to use. I started right, moved left, back right and then back left. Pitch 3 is mostly easy, with only a couple hard moves at the very top. Good gear where you need it. If it's slightly runout, it's only on really easy climbing. There's one exposed move left that's cool, as you look down on the very steep Angle of Repose (12a). We rapped from the Angle of Repose anchors to the ground in two 2-rope rappels. Be careful if you're using just one rope. It looks like you could miss the intermediate anchors on the first rap and end up hanging in space.
Nov 20, 2004
One of the longest trad routes in Boulder Canyon. Perhaps analagous to a 5.9+ version of Bitty Buttress, pure joy, with much more excitement. The rock is great, position incredible and moves were awesome. A #4 Camalot came in handy on every pitch. I experienced no run outs on P3, stemming; perhaps due to bringing a yellow/green offset Alien. However, P4 has a substantial runout with much air, but is easier climbing. Interesting flared cracks and grooves made for quite an adventure. The black grooves were dry today, but still very hard for 5.9, I think it's more 5.10.
Mar 18, 2004
Terrific route. One thought on P3: You can easily go past the statedbelay for P3 ("on the arete") another 30 feet or so. Go left throughthe roof, around the corner, and belay next to a big bush (tricams pink/brown;camalots 3/3.5). It makes it about a 90 foot pitch. The advantage: you can see your leader on the last pitch.
Jul 23, 2003
Truly a classic route. It is pure joy to do four pitches of granite in such wild surroundings, while only being 10 minutes from the car. You can't hear the highway!!!! Enjoy the stinging nettle.... What is that awesome rock straight up the canyon from the top of WWW? I could see a few bolted routes and a wonderful looking crack facing me.
Jul 14, 2003
Great adventure. A few notes on the climb: P1: Slit. Fun start and no pro loose 5th class slabs/vegetation above the two bolt anchor. P2: Black Groove. Awkward 9+ moves but we didn't have anything bigger than a 3.5 cam, and protected fine. Was dry when we did it on Saturday. P3. *** Pitch, best on the route. I found a few 'solid RPs' below the dihedral. BOMBER blue Alien at the start of the dihedral. One can sew up the rest with nuts and TCUs. Great rock and elegant moves through this pitch. Fabulous exposure. 9+ P4. Going left through the small roof can be protected with a blue TCU and then a #1 rock in the corner near the roof. Look for good holds left as you crank around the corner. This is a long wandering (some run-outs on 5.7 climbing) pitch to the second pitch anchors of Angle of Repose. Exit slightly right and up 25 feet to summit. Great position on this climb, made me feel like I wasn't in BC, but somewhere tucked away in the Valley...
Jul 14, 2003
Amen, the Black Groove is serious 5.10 trad. A quality 5.8 pitch lies 50' left of the Black Groove, and angles up to the same belay pine. Pitch #2 also 5.10, tricky pro but brilliant climbing. Pitch #3, 5.9+, goes left on runout face then tags into the last 2 bolts of A of Repose. End at that anchor. Wow...
Nov 19, 2002
Charles, I had the same question about this area when I visited it the first time; I don't have any "concrete" land rules, only my experience to share (as well as my own opinions - he-he). So here it is: In the number of times I've been there I've never had an issue with crossing the "cross or die" signs going up the hill past the erosion breaks. And I guess that goes with the quantities of others through the ages who have crossed the signs in the past to put up all the routes in the narrow canyon beyond the falls. I'm left with one conclusion why they are there: did you happen to see the hundreds of sightseers, gawkers and idiots on the tourist trail? Isn't it a rush to be so close to nature with hundreds of your brethren? Truly a transcendent experience if you ever get the chance to watch these idiots frolic in and around the falls. I think the signs are to prevent these lemmings from harming themselves by climbing up above the falls and invariable falling from the cliffs above. Even with the signs, land lubbors still seem to get themselves in over their heads in the area way too often. Also (here's my cynical opinionated side coming through) you know that with the throngs available, if the signs weren't there, it would be the perfect invite to wreck the canyon beyond the falls. If they saw how beautiful the canyon is, how strangely detached from the crowds below, how majestic the Plotinus wall, Wall of WW and adjacent domes make the canyon feel, well, it would be overrun with Easter Eggs with legs and aggro tourists. Simply put, those in the know walk by undeterred, the tourists look on in disbelief and have something to point their digital video cameras at as they film your ass ducking through the Keyhole. For the time being, the only folks you'll see above the falls are other crazy climbers and Boulder locals, and that's just fine with me. The Cone shaped wall proudly standing above the falls IS the WWW (it's an optical illusion, the wall is up the canyon a bit, it just looks like it rises from the creek). It really is impressive looking - like the Vampire, only this thing looks like good rock - and it mostly is! Finally, go do this damn route! It's awesome! And if it gets climbed enough with gear, maybe it won't get bolted (snicker, snicker).
Nov 11, 2002
Are there any private property/access issues with this climb? It sounds very intruiging, so I hiked the tourist trail to check it out today, and couldn't help but notice the many large signs on the west side of the trail and at the Falls stating in no uncertain terms that the area west of the trail and upstream from the Falls (to a point, obviously) are on private property and off limits. Michael or others, care to comment? Also, is the wall visible from the Falls (I chose to obey the 4+ signs and not scramble up the hill)? The wall I was able to see from the end of the trail was very impressive.
Nov 11, 2002
Crusher and I climbed this classic route in perfect fall conditions in late October, 2002. Bring a #4 Friend for the crux groove; there's a fine hold that's hidden at its top but was otherwise poorly protected without big gear. We both thought this section was trad 5.10. The two upper pitches are also quite serious climbing with lots of hard 5.9 moves away from good protection. On the final pitch, I traversed directly right on the unprotected section in the middle to gain a good groove, and thought the final crack moves at the top were also in the 5.10 range. Anywhere else but Boulder, this climb would get 5.10b s. In Boulder Canyon, it's a three star 5.9+. Wear a helmet on this one; we did.
Nov 6, 2002
- Mini Moe
- Mordor
Very cool route - hard/ somewhat scary second clip due to swing potential - I used a long quickdraw on the second bolt. After you get that clipped, tiny feet through the crux section with some hard crimpin' but mercifully brief. The rest of the climb after that is amazing, 5.11, steep, edge climbing with mega exposure. Rad.
Nov 4, 2013
- On The Bough
I thought that was an interesting climb.
Nov 14, 2002
- Prisoner, The
- Regular Route [WWW]
P1 deserves a single star, but it has a swallow/woodrat problem (poo and urates). P2 is not worth climbing at all.
Mar 5, 2017
- Slit, The
- Titleist (aka The Alicia Golembeski Memorial Route), The
I think this was a great find - snuck in between some old, established routes on a big wall (by Boulder Canyon standards anyway). I would agree with Dana that the bolt underneath the third roof is not ideally located, and it would be a lot better if it were moved. Especially since, as Seth said, that the big feature under the final roof is going to break sooner rather than later.
Mar 18, 2017
Great route - technical in spots and thuggish in others. Definitely thought provoking and worthwhile. The first pitch has some difficult slab moves - I broke the crystal at the fourth bolt. The area between the third and fourth bolts seemed to have some crumbly texture, a lot of which came off under my feet. As the route continues to clean up it's sure to improve (and possibly get harder). Be careful with the plate under the crux roof, it's ready to pitch, though it has a great jug... too bad. The roof move is pretty hard to get onsight but really cool. The second pitch is pure fun, I think 10- is a fair grade. I think the route protects pretty well. Certainly not overbolted, but perfectly safe. BC needs some more bolting like this... the general overbolting in the canyon is making me soft. Overall it's a great route! D - my compliments... Not only did you eye an excellent route, but you can kick some mean linear algebra knowledge. Here's one for you - does the crack below the second roof span the range of Camalots; that is, is the crack a linear combination of the cams on my rack? Cheers! Thanks all!
Feb 7, 2007
We've bumped the rating up to 5.11 from 5.11-. Also, we've bumped the rating of the 2nd pitch up to 5.10- from 5.9. Everyone I know that has climbed the route, thought that it was harder than its original rating. The original rating was an attempt to be more consistent with the ratings on the rest of the wall and to battle grade inflation. There are routes up canyon rated 5.11d that are probably easier than this route. In addition, we've decided to give the route a PG13 rating. There are a few places on this route where you are doing solid 5.10 moves a bit above small gear or a bolt. The last bolt below the big roof on the 1st pitch is poorly located. It is hard to see and not very useful. We'll go back in the spring and move this bolt. Depending on where we move it to, we may add another above or below the current location of this bolt. However, it'll do just fine for now. I think that this route is excellent, but it has one serious weakness. There are a couple of places on both pitches where you have to fight the temptation to wander onto nearby routes and easier terrain. The position on this route is magnificent. You can also hit the upper pitches of "Direct" and "Right Side" from the anchors at the top of pitch one. These are excellent crack pitches. In particular, this is a much better way to get to the 2nd pitch of "Right Side"...no animal feces to battle through.
Nov 25, 2006
Excellent climbing, but you'd better be a solid 5.11 leader before heading up on this route; not a good one to push your limits. I'm not a solid 5.11 leader, and I got a) scared and b) spanked. We rapped the route and I pre-placed draws on all the bolts on the first pitch, and I still had trouble finding some of them. There are several choices for the climbing line; I took what I thought was the path of least resistance, and I found myself well left or right of the bolts several times. Some of the bolts are just above roofs and are hard to see from below. Some of the pro is small, hard to find, and hard to place. At one point I had to look around a little corner to the right to find a small slot for a blue Alien to protect a 5.9-5.10 slab move. At the roof, I had to stretch up to place a blue/green hybrid Alien (a green would probably have worked) in the bottom of the V-notch, and then make an awkward clip. I was mentally and physically thrashed at this point and lowered off. I probably would have gotten toasted trying to clear the roof had I continued. As Dana points out, the roof move is hard to aid; it's a mantel and there's no finishing jug. I was wishing for about 3 or 4 more bolts on the pitch (OK, I'm a wuss): one several feet left of the hidden blue Alien placement, one on the 5.6-5.7 runout move to the roof, and one under the roof, about 4' left of the V-notch. And another at the top of a right-facing corner with guano (the bolt was out on the slab to the left). But if you're a solid 5.11 leader, you'd probably feel the extra bolts weren't necessary. The second pitch looked like fun, knobby face climbing at a much easier grade than the first pitch (I didn't climb it). I'll have to go back, rap down, and do it (and maybe top-rope the first pitch). Thanks to Dana, Jonas, and Yvonne for their hard work putting in this quality line; I just wish I was a better climber so I could have enjoyed it a little more.
Sep 10, 2006
- Mental Rock
- Manic Depressive
So, after the first roof, I went left through the next roof, does anybody else go this way? or is the hand crack to the right where most people go?
Oct 4, 2006
- Sleeper
This is a crag to hit in moderate weather. It has a northern aspect so it's shady and cold in cool weather.
Oct 4, 2006
- Mind Shaft Cliff
- Mind Shaft Crack Left
This route has a bolted rappel setup at the top.
Apr 4, 2016
This route probably is not "10c", but it is certainly harder than the 5.8 shown in the D'Antonio guide.
Jul 29, 2014
- Mind Shaft Crack Middle
I'd like to get some of whatever it was that Bob D was smoking when he rated this 7+ in his guidebook.
Apr 4, 2016
- Mind Shaft Crack Right
This route is very short and close to the road. It's OK for what it is and has a few good moves on it. Be careful of possible impalement on the pointy flake on the second half of the route.
Jun 29, 2012
- Unknown (Mine Shaft Roof)
- Mindless Cliff
- Aqua Regia
This is a great climb... thin and sustained on good rock. It is slightly contrived, since you could stem, but it has very fun moves if you don't....
Apr 29, 2013
What!?! None of those first two names on the FA would EVER bolt something dumb, contrived, or publish anything just to do so....
Apr 21, 2013
Quite possibly one of the dumbest routes ever bolted. This route is 5.8 if you stem the corner. The approach to this cliff is downright dangerous - this route and the other one on this pile never should have been bolted, and certainly never should have been published. This is not an area where lots of people should be going. The hillside is very steep and loose.
Apr 9, 2011
- Ground Swell
Not to try to sound hard, but I honestly don't think the trad placement was necessary.
Jul 20, 2013
- Myan Problem
- Never Mind
- Quick Chill
This route has an obvious bolt anchor, so there is no need to anchor to a tree as described in the description.
Jul 31, 2014
Fun climb, however, I don't think the PG13 rating is needed. I never felt close to run out, no you can't place pro above your head on every move but it's never below your feet. Crappy approach, good climb worth doing if you're in the area.
Jul 1, 2007
Greg Hartman and I did this climb on 6/12/03. It has a great start and is skinny throughout most of the climb. A fun lead climb that is perfect if you don't have a lot of time to climb. Take small nuts and cams and enjoy this more remote Boulder Canyon climb. I agree with the one star rating.
Jun 13, 2003
- Mine Hole Crag
- Bolt To Crack To Bolt
- Bolt To Crack To Bolts
- Bulge
Mark, that sounds familiar, but my notes don't have that much detail. It was a funky area with all the bolt chopping, bolting the flake, etc.
Oct 20, 2014
One of these routes had a loose anchor bolt when I climbed it. I think it was this one. Loose stud. Did you notice, Leo?
Oct 17, 2014
- Bull Fight
Hard to rate this one as it is basically a couple move boulder problem. The sloper for the right hand has a slight bit of a thumb catch that helps a bit. Fun throw to the hold above the bulge. I'm pretty tall, which definitely seemed to help, as I was able to use good feet for the throw.
Aug 5, 2009
I liked the crux sequence on this route actually, and it did not occur to me that I could cheat right until someone else pointed it out (I also thought this was a 5.10 when I started up it so take that for what it's worth). Being 6ft and taller is definitely an advantage on this route.
May 14, 2009
Ditto, Kateri.
Aug 14, 2007
Relax, the route cleaned up a little over the last few years- some of the holds have broken off, some becoming worse, some becoming better. I'll go with ~5.12b if done 'to the left.' The moves are pretty hard and the 3rd clip would be made from a not-so-nice crimper, or from the semi-sloper above. Definitely a heads up! It might be better just to skip it & make a few more moves to the jugs and clip #4.
Jun 14, 2006
I am hesitant to claim this route, because it is such a contrived steaming pile, but it is obvious I bolted it. I think it goes at mid 12, but I was not able to do crux. I dislike this route so much that I will at least move 3rd and 4th bolt to right for a little better route or remove them all together probably sometime this summer. Sorry for the pile.
Jun 1, 2002
- Couch Potato
When I climbed this route today, there were five bolts. From the second bolt on Sofa Kingdom, move up and left, past a third bolt, to the base of the flake. Above the flake, there were two more bolts on the arete.
Nov 14, 2012
Tony, Should only be 4 bolts. I thought about a separate anchor from Sofa Kingdom but have not done so.
May 14, 2009
Is this the route with the tan-colored bolts to the left of Sofa Kingdom? Not bad, but I thought I remembered more than 4 bolts? Did you add a few up top?
May 14, 2009
- Cow Patty Crack
Good route, IMO pretty stiff for 5.9 especially pulling left around the corner. Felt like 10. One of the better crack climbs at the Hole.
Mar 13, 2011
- Don't Pull on the Udder
At first sight, I had no idea this was a mixed route; just thought it was a run out lead. Lead it with a little hesitation at the crux, but other than that, it was not a bad climb.
Sep 14, 2013
In 2008, the chockstone is still there--and I still wouldn't crank on it! This is a short and sweet 5.8 that's easy to protect with an extra stopper and cam.
Sep 15, 2008
Not as bad as it looks from the ground -- it's actually a decent (though very short) pitch. From the top, it's possible to traverse climber's left to the next set of anchors, and set up a toprope anchor for the two neighboring climbs.
May 17, 2004
Thanks Pat and Azenda! This is so short and yet so sweet. It is a one hit wonder of a move but fun all the same. I definitely placed a cam in the crack just before the 3rd bolt...just to give me confidence to make the step up. This one is a 5.8 in my book. If you have never led a 5.9...this would be a good first attempt as you will succeed!
Jun 28, 2003
I forgot to put route name for short 5.8 crack right of Udder climb . We called it Salisbury Steak Crack because Gene had to eat salisbury steak in Estes Park because he could not find any vegetarian food there. I guess you had to be there.
Jun 1, 2002
This route was put up ground up by Pat and Azenda Thompson. I put the bolts in later to make a safe mixed beginner route. The name of the route is Don't Pull on the Udder. This is in relation to the big chockstone at the top of the route. I think it is solid but beware. We actually called this crag Bovine World. I used 0 TCUs and a .5 Camalot on the route. We thought the route was about 5.7. The short hand crack 10 feet to the right also has anchors on it. It definitely does not get stars, but it was put up ground up by Gene Kissler [I am not sure of spelling] and Pat Thompson. It goes at about 5.8 through the crack and backs off to maybe 5.4 above to the anchors. We used a number 1 or 2 Camalot for the crack and TCUs and stoppers above. Also up the hill and 20 feet to the right is another short crack with chain anchors. It starts in a right-facing dihedral and pulls the obvious roof and then ascends the short face on horizontals. You will need medium cams and TCUs for this route. I really enjoy this route, so I give it 1 star because it is so short. This route was put up ground up also, by Pat and Azenda Thompson and also Chris and Shannon Coney. We called this route Cow Patty Crack. It goes at about 5.9.
Jun 1, 2002
- Firing Squad
- Get Your Dieck Off My Barnyard Animals
Mantel schmantel. Sorry, but this route is very 9'ey. It's also a pretty nice route. It's got some interesting movement, has distinct and different sections, and, contrary to the opinions voiced here, probably doesn't need any gear.
Aug 14, 2010
The route's something like 5.8+ until the mantle onto the slab, which is 10a, like it or not you crusty old sandbaggers.
Oct 16, 2009
This route is an ok climb, but Little Stevie's Heifer is cooler. The runout at the top is pretty significant, and although it is a very basic scramble, it may freak out the novice sport climber who only brought quick draws.
Mar 18, 2009
Don't skip the slab by heading right... the move up past the last bolt is worthwhile (and much easier if taller).
Feb 21, 2004
There are two more mixed routes to left of Barn Yard Animals. These were both put up ground-up by Pat and Azenda Thompson and Chris Coney: Just Moo It, 11a. Just left of Barn Yard Animals, climb past two bolts on a broken slab past bushes and then go up an easy crack to a small roof. Step over the roof and do some awfully thin moves past a bolt to the anchors. Pro: 3 bolts plus some small cams and stoppers. Just Another Cow's Climb, 8? to 10a. Scramble up to the ledge just left of Just Moo It. Clip a bolt at ledge, climb up, place gear and stand on a big flake. Clip the next bolt and do the crux. Then place more gear up a slab crack and pull over small overlap to anchors shared with Just Moo It. Pro: 2 bolts plus small-to-medium cams and stoppers.
Jun 1, 2002
This route was put up buy Pat and Azenda Thompson. We gave it about 5.9. A few small cams are useful above 3rd bolt and then continue up to big hole in slab and commit to an awesome slab move to anchor. We called this route Get Your Dieck Off My Barn Yard Animals.
Jun 1, 2002
Shoot! I thought you looked like Ray Snead! I was there with my wife today, as you were leaving. We did all the routes here. This is a good one. #1 Metolius is good before the slab moves, which are, as Ray said, lots of fun (if brief.) The route to the left of this one appears to be abandoned -anyone have any info?
May 19, 2002
- Hot Donut, The
On 6/20, I led this up to the supposed "great" hand crack, which was defined by a dolphin-shaped, dolphin-sized block that angles up the the left and appears to be unattached to anything but gravity. It looked scarier than what I'd already climbed, so I avoided it and continued straight up, through the excellent arete finish of Couch Potato (10-). The lower section (5.8) is loose and covered with moss and flaky lichen. I worked for and placed about seven pieces of decent pro, burying small cams as deep as possible into crumbly "cracks." Not for the 5.8 leader.
Jun 24, 2015
- It's All Been Dung
- Just Another Cow's Climb
Maybe it was just the end of the day, but, for the average ape-index or shorter climber, this felt significantly stiffer than Sofa Kingdom, more equivalent to the easy version of Bull Fight. It's a bit licheny, especially the start. Cams to #1 Camalot were useful. Don't clip that last bolt of Just Moo It.
Nov 6, 2006
- Just Moo It
If this is the route I climbed today, I must have missed the last bolt or maybe I clipped the wrong anchors. I only clipped 2 bolts and made some really shitty nut placements (that probably would have failed if I fell) and basically ran it out to the anchors. It was pretty scary lol. That's what I get for not reading the beta.
Jul 17, 2017
I was overly influenced by the guidebook rating. It did seem like solid 10, but I thought maybe I should have been trusting my feet more. I do remember that I had to make quite a long reach up and left to complete the last move of the climb and that it would be quite a bit harder for shorter climbers (I am 5'11"). I bumped up the rating to 10+.
Oct 20, 2006
Pat Thompson gives this route an 11a rating. Here is an excerpt from his comment on "Barnyard Animals": Just Moo It, 11a. Just left of Barnyard Animals, climb past two bolts on a broken slab past bushes and then go up an easy crack to a small roof. Step over the roof and do some awfully thin moves past a bolt to the anchors. Pro: 3 bolts plus some small cams and stoppers. Rolofson's new guide book rates it 9+/10a, but that's probably an error.
Jun 14, 2006
Uhh... 10a for the move at the last bolt? I thought it felt like 10d. Was there a way to skip that thin moves off of the slanting sidepulls (left hand) that I did not see? Were there once footholds or something?
Jun 14, 2006
- Lieback
- Little Stevie's Favorite Heifer
I thought this was a very enjoyable climb. It is mostly sustained 5.10 climbing until the last bolt. If you stay on the bolt line at the last bolt, it is probably a mid 5.11 crux, but you can easily bail by moving right onto the adjacent route (Bull Fight).
Apr 28, 2012
We weren't up for leading this one, but we put a toprope on it after leading Get Your Dieck Off My Barnyard Animals. Fun moves, and not too much drag for a TR.
Sep 15, 2008
This route was put up by Pat and Azenda Thompson, Rick and Jana Thompson and Mark Rolofson. It goes at 10d to the right of the bolts or 11c/d straight on the bolts. We called this route Little Stevie's Favorite Heifer.
Jun 1, 2002
I should point out that my estimation of the grade of this and "unknown 2" are just that - my own estimates. I based this grade on how it felt to lead it and my wife's efforts to follow it. Could be anywhere from 10b to 11d (snicker).
May 21, 2002
- Ruff Roof
Spoiler alert sort of- Tape the second joint (DIP) of your right index finger and it'll be more fun.
Jul 20, 2012
Reachy?????? I'm 5'6" It can't be reachy! I tried to place the bolts so you would go right. If you can pull the ruff you don't want it to end there!
Jun 18, 2009
I'll actually give this one 5.12a as a flash grade. The crux is pretty hard and not obvious. I ended up doing some pretty funky moves to get through it, not to mention power and reach. Check out the photo of the crux set-up. Fun route. If you avoid going way left up top, then the route is NOT over after the roof. A 60M rope just gets you to the ground.
Jun 14, 2006
What a varied route! Steep slab climbing, slopers, crimps and a strenuous roof - all in 90 feet! The scramble to the first bolt is fourth class, but beware of loose rock - my rope dislodged a pretty hefty place from the junk. This route is well bolted, pumpy and interesting all the way to the chains.
May 19, 2002
Not to be confused with Rough Roof on Redgarden Wall. . . .
May 5, 2002
- Sabrina's Choice
- Salisbury Steak Crack
Tony's description is accurate. The photo in the D'Antonio guidebook is not accurate. The line up Salisbury Steak Crack is labeled as being Cow Patty Crack. Cow Patty Crack (accurately illustrated here on MountainProject) is around the corner to the right, not visible in the D'Antonio photo.
Nov 14, 2012
- Slab
- Sofa Kingdom
If you're at all unsure about leading this, bring a #1 Camalot getting to the 1st bolt.
Mar 13, 2016
Direct line on this is 5.10a. Old style ratings then a 5.9 to 5.9+. Very well-protected except the first bolt is a little high. Better to come from the right or use a clip stick. Gets a lot of sun in February.
Feb 21, 2016
I suspect that the folks calling this 5.7 or barely 5.8 are either on the tall side or climbed off to the left or right of the bolt line. That being said, I don't think it's 5.10, and my daughter who is 5'1" agrees. Would have been a lot more interesting as a mixed line and quite safe with 1 or 2 bolts.
Aug 2, 2014
Chalk X not there. The rock still is. I don't think anyone who looks at where they are climbing is going to use it as a hold.
Feb 28, 2014
Just did this a couple of hours ago. Very fun face climbing, but I want to highlight there's a loose block precariously at the top to the left of the anchors. I could tell that if someone pulls on it lay-back style they will dislodge it and put the belayer in danger. I put a big chalk X on it, but that won't last long.
Sep 6, 2013
This is a nice route on mostly solid rock (one suspect flake near second bolt). We approached the first bolt on the face from the right, up a wide slot and then along a left-angling, hand-sized crack where protection can be placed. Walking the feet up this crack, with good handholds available above, seems easiest. Rolofson's original intention for this route may have been to take a direct line right next to the fourth bolt, which looks rather difficult and would explain his 5.10 rating. We bypassed this by stepping right a couple of feet, to reach good handholds near a thin crack with a bush in it, then stepping back left. Just above this is the technical crux, the mantle-shelf maneuver to the Thank God finger pocket mentioned in the route intro (5.9-ish). With a 60m rope you can lower all the way back to the ground; no need to scramble up to the exposed belay ledge 10 feet off the ground to start the climb.
Nov 9, 2007
We ended up at this crag when trying to find Animal World also. The problem is that the approach to Animal World involves an easterly traverse along the sloping terrace just above the Boulderado, with some scrambling and a couple of slightly exposed spots. Since we were expecting more of a 'trail' to Animal World, this didn't seem quite right, so we left the terrace to head further uphill and bumped into Mine Hole Crag before we realized the error.
Nov 2, 2007
This can easily and safely be lead on gear. Most bolts are placed directly next to gear placements.
Apr 25, 2006
I like the Gerry Roach Maxim: "One must go the wrong way at least some of the time."
Sep 21, 2004
Bob, funny you should bring that up... I guess we are so used to 5 mile approaches that we did not bother to look for directions until we noticed that we were running out of climbable rocks as we hiked up the side of the hill. WT
Sep 21, 2004
I agree that this is not 5.10. More like 5.8 with perhaps one move of 5.9. I guess if one would limit onself to following the bolt line directly it may be harder than if you reach left and right for the obvious holds. But then, it would be way contrived.... Anyway, fun route to do, particularly if you are lost looking for the Animal Crag and stumble upon it. WT
Sep 20, 2004
This is not 5.10, although it might be a bit height dependent. At the start, it's easier to come in from the right before clipping the first bolt. A 60m is plenty for lowering off, I think a 50m would be fine.
Sep 20, 2004
A couple of things: As others have pointed out, this route is not 5.10. I've taken first time climbers on this, and they've gotten up it fine on TR. 5.8 at the most but still a very fun climb. A couple of saftey precautions: be very mindful of loose rocks both on the approach and around the belay station. Also, if you decide to rap off the route to save wear and tear on your rope from the awful sloping ledge before the last bolt, be sure not to toss your rope anywhere near the nasty pine tree with lots of small dead branches that stands just to the left of the climb. It can really eat up your rope and may reqiure some toproped, licheny, 5.10 fingercracking to untangle said rope from said tree. And the mine hole is not a bathroom!
May 19, 2004
Pretty solid rock, and fun enough moves, but probably more likely in the 5.7 to 5.8 range.
Feb 21, 2004
Oh yeah, great climb. It clearly is not 5.10, and I know this because I still struggle on many 5.9 routes, and this was pure joy.! The only reason I would give it a 5.9 is because, like mentioned above, you can get psyched out if you don't just keep moving. I must say, there are places where, being short, I had an intermediate move before the bolt. Those moments made it slightly challenging. Oh, we dabbled with starting left, center and right of the line of the first bolt off the belay ledge...and each start was fun and unique. The route is in the shade most of the morning.
Jun 28, 2003
I concur with Ray's comment. Did this route today and it felt like 5.9 for the Canyon - no harder. The bolts might be a bit reachy for the more vertically challenged, but the climbing is not 5.10. Compared to Eldo, this is probably 5.7. Great route though! Beware of loose rock and the potential for a nasty tumble getting to the first bolt!
May 19, 2002
This route is very nice and worth doing, but no way is it 5.10-, even by Boulder Cyn standards. 5.8 at the most, and easier and safer than virtually *any* 5.8 than I can think of in Eldo. Getting started is a bit weird, though, and I agree that a 1-2" piece has a calming effect.
May 19, 2002
I think if you hesitate you'll find this harder; fiddling around mid-sequence burns energy. If you go with the flow (will the hold to be at your reach) you'll find the crux 9+. Fight it and it will seem 10a. This is a sunny climb in the afternoon on a surprising slab. One last thing: if you want to make the first clip (which does involve a move over exposure up onto the slab) extra safe, it is possible to throw in some pro in a hand sized crack before the face. I used a red BD hex and felt glad all over.
Nov 13, 2001
- Theen Crack
Up above the thin crack is unclear, as Leo mentions. This rock is kitty litter if you go far right, and if you go left (recommended) has some rather large loose flakes and awkward moves. This is NOT beginner climbing terrain.
May 14, 2009
From a quick run up it, it's not clear which way you go after you finish the crack. You can angle left to the anchor of Sofa Kingdom or you could break right and head towards Ruff Roof's anchors. Felt stiff for 9. Addendum: J Hone informs me the climb finishes between anchors on Sofa Kingdom and Ruff Roof.
Nov 17, 2006
- Thin Slab
- Unknown
The hand crack is shoulder width apart from the first three bolts. I'd also say it's easier than every route at the crag other than the 5.6 on the far left side of the crag.
Oct 29, 2017
A belly-to-the-bolts line of more resistance is available for those who want more challenge and avoid reaching left to the cracks/edges a few feet left of the bolts.
Oct 17, 2014
- Unknown 11a
- Unknown Prow
Fairly easy to the obvious upper crux. A number 3 fits fairly well in the crux crack but does take away a couple of finger locks. Can be liebacked as well which may be easier due to better feet.
Oct 30, 2016
Irregular and licheny, it will perhaps deserve one star if it cleans up. Closely bolted on 5.7 terrain down low, then not so well-protected on the much more difficult (10+?) and slippery crux up high.
Oct 17, 2014
- What's Mine Is Yours
Nah, if it were superhero sort of thing, it wouldn't be sore. Reflexive and mortal...you'd have done the same thing, George.
May 31, 2013
Wow! Sounds like a superhero move, Leo! Rockfall's greatest foe .... SuperPaik!!
May 31, 2013
Beware when sitting below this route on a windy day. We got a softball-sized rock bouncing down the gully to the right heading straight for my partner. I deflected it with my hand, but it bruised it up and it's sore.
May 31, 2013
This has cleaned up pretty nicely- although my partner did pull off a small hold today.
May 21, 2013
Perhaps it was my imagination, but I felt that a juggy hold just below and to the left of the 1st clip was a bit wobbly. This particular rock did sound hollow upon knocking. I didn't like it and moved past it asap. Otherwise, a nice climb, and I second: it is harder than it looks! Had to "update" my D'Antonio book with this one.
Aug 26, 2010
Good, quick, beginner lead. Easy to talk a new leader through the cleaning process, because it's short and quiet. A fun little route, but the rock is definitely a little rough.
May 18, 2010
A post-script of sorts. I didn't break any holds. (grin) Actually, it was fun climbing, but yeah, a little gritty at the bottom.
May 14, 2009
"The rock is not the best. You might want to keep Tony off of it. :) " Ha! I love it! Addendum: I climbed this route the other day and the rock is WAY better than the crappy trad routes I put up. The rock is a little gritty but still fun.
Jul 29, 2008
Jason, This is on the formation right of where Firing Squad is. When you are climbing your route The Hot Donut, it is the formation behind you. The rock is not the best. You might want to keep Tony off of it. :) I was looking for more moderates in the Sofa Kingdom area because it is shady on these hot days.
Jul 29, 2008
Greg, is this near Firing Squad? I remember the rock on that formation being a little less than perfect.
Jul 29, 2008
- Mountain Rose
- Ancient of Days, The
Warren Shelly and I did this route on trad gear in 1997. It was likely climbed earlier as it is the natural line. Back then, the first placements were marginal cams and nuts under the roof, making the roof moves a bit more thrilling. As Rolofson noted, it is ~80' long, on good rock, and has nice views of Castle Rock. The trad gear on this one was never all that good, but if you want some practice with marginal trad placements, bring some small cams along.
Jul 16, 2015
Truly a nice piece of stone. A beautiful place to climb when the flowers are blooming. The route length seems closer to 80 feet, not just 50 feet. You could rate it 5.8 or 5.9- depending on how you climb over the first roof.
Apr 15, 2015
- Axed
The route with the glue-in bolts.
Jul 11, 2017
- Better You Than Me / Around the Corner
- Big Tuna
We put rings on the Metolius rap hangers today.
Jun 16, 2016
Most fun route on the wall but still on the crumbly side. Not as bad as the others.
Sep 19, 2012
- Coming Up Roses
Pretty fun stemming through the first 4-5bolts. After that, we cruised up the slab to the top. There are some jugs and good crimps up there, but they're difficult to spot as they're covered in lichen.
Sep 25, 2016
- Geezer Squeezer
- Golden Rose
A fun route with great rock and nice goods. That said, it's not 5.12a but more like 5.11c/d. Compare it to any number of 12a climbs - The Good, The Bad & The Jacked, Free Fall, Boulder Quartz System, Empire Of The Fenceless, Mercy Drilling, and even Days Of Future Passed (which seems a little light for the grade) this route is not as hard. At the 5th bolt, it is possible to finish directly above the bolt (.11d) or move left then up, which is a bit more committing but easier.
Nov 4, 2014
Fun, little route with good protection at the crux. Tricky the first time, substantially easier the second time.
Jun 8, 2014
Big Tuna and this one were bullet-hard granite. No choss, solid stuff. Golden Rose offered deep hard pull to a slopey clip hold then balancy lateral move with a toe hook. 5.fun!
Jun 10, 2013
Granite is not that solid. I broke holds on every route on this wall including this route on the bullet looking lower portion.
Sep 19, 2012
Great route at kind of an obscure crag. Worth the effort though. Cool movements on pretty solid beautiful granite....
Aug 22, 2012
Definitively 12a, no doubt about it, but every route in Boulder Canyon has to be downgraded by someone.
Jul 14, 2012
I don't feel like this is .12a. There is a good rest when you move left over the arete before the steep section. Due to this almost no hands rest, you can get everything back before the crux, which is quite short. This makes it closer to .11c/d. Still a fun route though. However, if you stayed to the right of the bolts the whole time and skipped the very obvious rest to the left, this climb would be .12a.
Dec 9, 2011
- Grizzly Rose
I wonder if this is the route that I've been warming up on for Sinopia. It's about ten feet to the left of Golden Rose.
Nov 7, 2014
Thanks for bolting this line. It's a great climb with nice jugs and several interesting 5.10 sections. A perfect warm up.
Nov 4, 2014
- Heat Wave
Seems to have cleaned up enough to be worthy. Still a few loose holds and the granular edges up high may continue to evolve. There's scope for different betas, giving different difficulties, enough to explain the range reported.
Jul 15, 2016
I led this four or five years ago. The existing bolts were old and rusty; the trad gear funky; and there was no anchor. I had to build an anchor somewhere up to the right. My wife couldn't follow, so I rapped and cleaned, then scrambled around to the top to clean my anchor. I thought that it was 10-, perhaps because I, too, continued up the rotten arete. Now that it may be a better climb, I'd like to do it again.
Aug 14, 2015
Perhaps I am reading too much into your opinion. That said it really caught my attention to see this route rated 5.9 with a bomb for quality rating. First, the route was originally graded .10c. If you had led it with its original gear, I will bet no one would have called it 5.9. I could agree that in its original state you could bomb this route. There was a bail biner on the 3rd bolt when I led it rope solo. I went the easiest way finishing up the rotten arête. I thought there were 5.10 moves at what is now the 3rd bolt & traversing to the arête finish. I retrobolted it to avoid climbing the rotten arête & to stay on the face which definitely feels like solid 5.10. Perhaps the moves at the 3rd bolt have cleaned up & gotten easier. So maybe following the line of least resistance is 5.9, but I have to wonder, does the protection affect the mindset of many leaders enough that the same moves receive dramatically different YDS grades? Seeing the significant downrating of the easier sport climbs at this crag makes me wonder. Is it good for a 5.10 or 5.11 leader to downrate a 5.9 to 5.7 or 5.8- or is it an ego thing?
Apr 14, 2015
Mark, thanks for the clarification. You seem to be reading in more meaning than there is. The description is as we found it. The rock's quality makes it less appealing than 90+% of Boulder Canyon's routes. As I wrote, some may like it. As you described in that clipping block pulling off, holds still crumble on this route. A warning as such is warranted. There are many better routes in the canyon, including many of yours, Mark.
Nov 6, 2014
Yes, the name of the route is "Heat Wave", and I retro-bolted it in 2013 after leading it rope solo with its old bolts and gear. I have since climbed the route with several people, all who enjoyed it. So, what's your problem, Leo? Traditude or just picky? Having more bolts is nice. I originally finished up the rotten arete, but I now always climb directly up the face with a crux above the last bolt. When I retro-bolted it, I pulled off a large block that I had used as a clipping hold. The route is safe. I used long 1/2" bolts, because the dynamited rock is softer than your typical Boulder Canyon granite. I felt the crag deserved a 5.10 sport route, which at the time had none.
Nov 4, 2014
GDW, thanks for the input. Oddly, p 272 of Rossiter's 1999 Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon guide lists Heat Wave as having 3 bolts, protecting with RPs, climbing an arete, and being a 5.10c. This little route climbs a face mostly, has 7 bolts, and is not 5.10. The bolts look newer than 1999, too. My guess is that it is newer than that.
Aug 9, 2014
I believe the name is Heat Wave, Darrah 1989 rope solo 5.10c; listed in at least 3 guidebooks, for ex. Rossiter, 1999, Falcon Press.
Aug 5, 2014
Leo's name for this route sums it up pretty well. I'll give it one star to yield the half-star average that it deserves. It may warrant a full star some day if the crumbly parts are reduced with use. (Although then all the holds may be gone, making the top a 5.11 slippery face.)
Jul 21, 2014
- Hummingbird
- Mountain Rose
I'm reluctant to say a route is safe, but it seemed to me that gear is plentiful and solid. I would recommend nuts for anyone apprehensive, as they seemed extra bomber, and a bomber #3 C4 in the crack over the roof protects getting to the bolt. TLDR: I'm not sure I see why this would be rated PG-13 or even PG really (unless the standard for G is a continuous bomber crack).
Aug 27, 2017
Climbing the roof line and pulling the roof are worth doing. The climbing after the bolt becomes much less worthwhile, dirty, and quite slabby with minimal protection up high. There's no bolt anchor for this route, so either belay your follower off a tree at the top, or traverse right to the anchor at the top of the adjacent Grizzly Rose route. The descent gully to the left is loose and not that fun.
Jul 9, 2017
Cleaner and more solid than it looks. Worth getting on if you have a small rack of cams along.
Jul 26, 2016
The bolt was a rusty 3/8" Lok-bolt design (e.g. powers.com/product_06160.php ) with the threads not quite fully engaged on the nut (perhaps someone had replaced the original thinner hanger with the Metolius hanger that was on it). It turned out the bolt was bent as well. Sketchy! This design of bolt is very weak in the 3/8" size even when new. The bolt was provided by the ASCA, please donate and help replace old bolts! safeclimbing.org
Aug 1, 2015
- Short But Sweet
"About as little fun you can possibly have climbing without getting hurt."
Apr 14, 2015
This really is a terrible route. I got up to the section below the roof and tried to go out right, but the rock was so chossy that I backed off and had to downclimb, I went down a ways and was able to get a quickdraw on a bolt on the neighboring 10c and lower from that. Then I had to go around and rap down and retrieve my draw... and the rap was from a tree 10 feet from the edge. While this route is horrible, the 5.9 climb "War Drums" on the larger crag, while still nothing to write home about, was OK.
Jun 3, 2006
Sounds like one of those "black hole" routes: so bad that they suck the stars off of surrounding routes.
May 23, 2003
- Short Sport Route
This is "Short Sport", what else could it be? Really, 5.10+! Wow I never thought the grade in Bob's book was incorrect at 5.11b/c. It is definitely not as hard as Steel Pulse (.11c) on these crags, so maybe I could see calling it .11b or as low as 11a/b. It is harder than Big Tuna (.11a). One thing it is not is 5.10d. None of my partners questioned the 5.11 rating. Short but sustained for its length. Better than it looks too.
Apr 14, 2015
- Sick Puppy
I'm pretty sure there are only 4 bolts. The move past the first overlap is entertaining, as are several others higher. After clipping bolt 3, I found a sequence which also uses holds to the right of the arete. Not sure how Mark stays left. Really a fun route, very clean, deserves more traffic. Try it sometime, when headed to or from Frisky.
May 5, 2017
- Steel Pulse
Better warm up for Frisky than the 10c, and just as fun. I'd give it 3 stars if it weren't for all the friable holds.
Sep 26, 2015
Fun route. Bit cryptic.
Jul 13, 2015
- War Drums
Maybe the nicest route at the crag. I used a #1 1/2 Friend and a #0.5 Camalot. You could place TCUs in various spots as well, if desired. Going left at the tree/twig is really fun amongst the pegmatite, highly recommended, but beware of breakable crystals.
Jul 15, 2016
I led this four or five years ago, finding only two bolts. Sounds like the third bolt wasn't worth finding. I did find lots of placements in horizontals, using C3s up through #1 Cam. So three new bolts is more than plenty.
Aug 14, 2015
All 3 bolts were replaced today 8/1/15, and we added a two bolt anchor to the left of the dying tree & removed all the tat off the tree (just a note - it's dying due to running out of dirt, it has nothing to do with climbers). The first two bolts were rusty 3/8" sleeve bolts (of the Lok-bolt design, e.g. powers.com/product_06160.php - a very weak bolt even when new), and the third was a 1/4" buttonhead. Hardware for the bolt replacement was provided by the ASCA, please support bolt replacement and donate! safeclimbing.org
Aug 1, 2015
- Wyoming Prairie Dogs
The opening moves up to about the 3rd bolt feel harder than .10a.
Jul 30, 2017
Climbed this today with my husband. We both had very different variations of the start (he's over 6 ft tall). The start stuck out the most to us. He was able to bear hug the wall to get crimps on either side of the corner sticking out and cross into the good edge above. Meanwhile, I used two crimps on the left to shoot up to the good edge above. Overall, we both had fun on this one.
Sep 25, 2016
I concur with Rolfson, this is another fun climb along the Barker to Kossler Reservoirs pipeline route that was constructed in 1909. I didn't notice any chipped holds, unless you consider dynamite and pickaxe scars from 1909 to be "chipping." Regardless, the area affected by the blasting is only the bottom moves and the rest is a fun romp on solid rock. We gave it a 5.9 grade.
Jul 16, 2015
Pretty funny! chipped!? Try dynamited up to 3rd bolt, to put the aqueduct in. Isn't it amazing how climbers worry about a possible chipped hold & ignore the greater impacts that we humans are creating. This route is a great addition to the crag. Interesting slab climbing on solid rock.
Jun 4, 2015
You must have chipped the holds...we didn't, but at least you got your name in the book (; >)
Apr 24, 2015
Climbed this route the other day. Sorry, boys, but it's just another squeeze job, and most of the holds are chipped to boot, but hey, you got your name on the MP, and that's what really counts right?
Mar 24, 2015
- Yellow Tail
Eric, Are you sure you were on this route & not the route to the right "Steel Pulse". I have climbed this route numerous times now. Seems pretty solid for the most part. There are several interesting sections: The start past first 2 bolts, past 3rd & 4th bolts & the wild, committing mantle over a bulge onto a sloping shelf, above 6th bolt. Love it! Good warm-up for Frisky Cliff.
Apr 15, 2015
For "bullet-proof" rock, I sure did break quite a few holds on this turd.
Sep 19, 2012
- Myth Rock
- Excalibur
This is my favorite route at this crag. The crux, down low, takes a lot of strength. Up high there is another hard move, maybe 10d, in the dihedral. We did it in one pitch, skipping the anchor on the ledge.
Apr 24, 2014
The ambiance turns this otherwise decent route into a not-so-great route. Then again, we discovered that you can belay from your car's passenger seat through the rolled-down window and escape some of the noise at the base. Wear a helmet and seatbelt to keep from getting bashed if the leader falls.
May 21, 2007
- Mithril
I added webbing and a biner to the tree today (there was none there). I only had one sling to leave. The climb is fun, but the crux is really short. I used a #2, #3, and #4 Camalots in the crux area. I placed a #1 both above and below. You can easily do the climb as one pitch.
Apr 24, 2014
A fun climb; too bad the wide hand crack is only 15 or 20 feet long. The climb starts with the same 2 bolts as the easier start to Excalibur, up blocky ledges on the right side of the face. At the top of the first pitch, I got an anchor in the corner with an orange Alien, #1 Camalot and #4 C4 Camalot. I protected the wide hand crack on the second pitch with a #3.5 Camalot and a #3 Camalot. Using the finger crack in the corner and working the left hand and arm in the wide crack kept the difficulty at 5.9. Above, an easier chimney led to the tree at the top of the crag. On October 14, there were two yellow slings and a locking biner for a rap anchor at the tree. If you can't see these slings before you start up, bring slings and rings of your own.
Oct 14, 2005
This is a response to Bernard, but will serve as useful data for anyone. MITHRIL is a very good climb, but is really too short. Were it two or three times its length it would be a north American classic like Reed's Pinnacle. The quality is there. You will just wish that fat hands crack went on forever, or at least another 80 feet. But don't despair, the other routes on this crag are really good...and longer. By the way, I started reading LOTR again. It is surely one of the greatest stories ever told. - Richard Rossiter
Oct 12, 2005
Hi Richard. I've read the Hobbit only a couple times as well (I'm embarrassed to admit how many times I've read LOTR; it's been pretty much an annual ritual since I was a young lad), and I looked at it again to seek out the first mention of Bilbo's mithril coat (having already found one reference to Thorin's gift to Bilbo before I wrote the previous post). In "Not at Home," it says: "With that he [Thorin] put on Bilbo a small coat of mail, wrought for some young elf-prince long ago." So we know at least one elf wore a mithril coat at some point (which means you're off the hook!). It's clear it was wrought by the Dwarves in any case (per LOTR). I've always regarded The Hobbit as separate from LOTR: it was written many years prior to LOTR, before Tolkien had figured out his mythology. Tolkien actually revised a few crucial passages in The Hobbit so that it fit in better with the history in LOTR (and unless you find a 1937-8 printing of The Hobbit, you've read the revised edition). Thus I'd look to LOTR for the definitive word on mithril. Re: "I didn't know you had girls (two?)." Would you believe four girls and one baby boy?!!? It's been a while since we've crossed paths (was I even married last time I saw you?), and we've got enough at home to field a hockey team. Imagine climbing with Raoul and 3 of his buddies, and you'll get the picture. I'll put Mithril on my to-do list next time I'm in Boulder Canyon -- sounds like a good route. I've always admired your gift for picking out strong lines; it's nice to see that you are still so active on the new route scene. Bernard========
Oct 6, 2005
Bernard, thanks for clearing this up. Everyone needs an editor and I much prefer to be accurate. I have gone through the Trilogy three times starting in 1986 and The Hobbit once. Looks like I should have read The Hobbit three times too. While I was writing (too late at night as usual) "of the Elves" I was suspicious that I may have had it wrong. Minas Tireth is just a typo, I took it right out of the book. I didn't know you had girls (two?). That is great and I am sure you are a great dad. It is good to hear from you, even indirectly. Kindest Regards. Richard Rossiter
Oct 4, 2005
Hi Richard - I can't let this one go without a friendly comment from a fellow JRR Tolkien fan. "Mithril, as any JRR Tolkien fan knows, is the legendary chainmail armor of the Elves worn by Frodo in the Lord of the Rings trilogy. " Mithril was mined by the Dwarves; it could be found only in Moria ("Moria-silver, or true-silver as some have called it: mithril is the Elvish name. The Dwarves have a name which they do not tell." (1)) "The Elves dearly loved it, and among many uses they made of it ithildin, starmoon, which you saw upon the doors."(2) Gandalf is speaking in both of these quotes, and the doors to which he refers are the east doors of Moria, which were inlaid with ithildin. It may be that the Elves used mithril for chainmail (though I doubt it), but the mithril coat that Frodo wears was definitely made by the Dwarves. Thorin gave it to Bilbo in "The Hobbit". Bilbo then gives it to Frodo in Rivendell, just before the Company leaves on its long journey to Mordor. Frodo loses it in the tower of Cirith Ungol (Shagrat gets off with it), and then Gandalf takes it from the Mouth of Sauron at the Black Gate ("Dwarf-coat, elf-cloak, and blade of the downfallen West..." (3)). It is returned to Frodo in the Field of Cormallen ("Then Gandalf came and in his arms, to the wonder of Frodo, he bore the sword and the elven-cloak and the mithril-coat that had been taken from him in Mordor." (4)) Mithril, then, is not chainmail armor; it is only used to make it ("...the Dwarves could make of it a metal, light and yet harder than tempered steel." (5)). It really isn't "of the Elves," either, because the Dwarves mined it (and likely traded it or gave some of it to the Elves). At the time of the story, most of it was in the hands of Sauron: "Of what they [the Dwarves] have brought to light, the Orcs have gathered nearly all, and given it in tribute to Sauron, who covets it. Mithril! All folks desired it..." (6)) When the climbing companies get some mithril, we can all expect stronger and lighter biners, though that [presupposes] they will be able to locate some dwarves who can help them forge it correctly. I'm waiting for the day when we can purchase Elven rope (leading the Diamond on a lithe 5mm rope would be sweet). Of course, free climbing standards will shoot through the roof if the scientists can locate some Gollum DNA and bring him back to life. (1) (2) (5) (6) -- See "A Journey in the Dark," Book II, The Fellowhip of the Ring (3) -- See "The Black Gate Opens," Book V, The Return of the King (this quote tells you it's a dwarf coat, but you already learn that in The Hobbit) (4) -- See "The Field of Cormallen," Book VI, The Return of the King You might also want to change the spelling of one of your routes on Watermark (on this site and your own). It's "Minas Tirith," not "Minas Tireth." Nice route names, though. I just put up "The Sword-that-was-Broken," (5.3 **) and "Ring of Power," (5.4 *) with my girls a few weeks ago. These were inaugural FAs for the kids, and Katie (my 8-yr old, who finished The Lord of the Rings last spring) suggested the names, so I went with them. (Anyone who wants a friendly place to climb with the kids: you'll find these routes on the slab left of Git-em Up Scout on Scout Slab, opposite Scout Rock in SSV Canyon -- these landmarks are all listed on this site. Very close to the road, so super short approach, but far enough away from the road that traffic is not a danger. Two bolts and gear on the left line to hidden chains at 60 feet; the right line -- Ring of Power -- goes to the same anchor and can be led or top roped, with a 5.6 R/X variant finish on the arete. The kids didn't do the arete finish; it'd be 5.11 for them due to lack of reach. There's a ratings debate this site hasn't seen yet: how to rate climbs for six year olds who are 41 inches tall). Bernard Gillett===========
Oct 2, 2005
- Mjolnir
This is a fun route and both me and my partner thought it was easier than the 10a to the left. I guess people's strengths vary.
Apr 24, 2014
A good route in a bad place. Too bad it's not further from the road. Still, it was a diversion while we waited to see if the rain would stay or go, before heading up to Avalon.
May 21, 2007
An excellent and sustained route; one of the best sport pitches at this grade that I've done in Boulder Canyon. There's a tricky move just getting started at the first bolt. I removed some loose rock on the ledge between the second and third bolts. There still is a small loose block in the corner on this ledge, but it would require a prybar to remove. Above, sustained interesting stemming and chimneying led to the top of the V-slot, where there is a committing layback exit left at the fifth bolt. This bolt is around the corner out of sight until you start into the layback; look for it and make the clip before pulling the move. The final steep headwall also has some hard moves. I got gray and yellow Aliens in horizontal cracks between the sixth and seventh bolts. The moves straight up past the last bolt looked very hard, so I went left to a hand crack and battled past a little bush before angling back right to the anchor.
Oct 16, 2005
- Myth of Freedom
Both my partner and I thought this was harder than 10a and more difficult than the 10c to the right. My partner climbs much harder climbs and so have I in the past. The route is not bad, but don't expect it to be an easy romp.
Apr 24, 2014
- Thor
The newest D'Antonio guidebook shows this having 8 bolts and continuing up the arête to the right of the start. My partner only climbed past the first two bolts. You could see the bolts up high when we were there. I did not see anchor bolts up top, but you could use the tree above Mithril to descend.
Apr 24, 2014
I was going to downgrade this to 11-, but after ripping off the starting foothold, the crimp on the starting handhold, the second handhold, the undercling, and part of the edge of the fingerlock, I think it might be harder now. I was scarcely able to hold on with each broken hold, and falling off that first foothold (can't clip before it) could have injured me pretty badly. I tried to clean up what was left of it (now 4" lower down) to avoid anyone else breaking their back falling 1/2 way on/off of the starting ledge. As a result of my experience, my opinion of the route quality reflects the rock quality.
May 21, 2007
- Nip and Tuck
- Antagonism
11a to a tricky boulder problem.
Oct 23, 2013
My buddy pulled me up this one on TR. I am not strong enough to lead it, but I could tell the thumb catch was essential. That crux is insane.
Jul 20, 2013
My first 12a/b redpoint! This climb is super cool but also really hard. I am 6'0" tall with zero ape-index; people with much shorter bodies/reaches would have to do the crux differently...here's my beta: once completing the tricky mantle you find yourself standing on the ledge with a big, left hand sidepull. From the ledge, I can barely reach the totally horrible, right hand slimper...smear the left foot and bump the left hand to the unique sidepull...but make sure you use the thumb catch, so it's more like a pinch...then comes the hard part...the left foot smear made me fall repeatedly, so instead I basically do a pullup off the slimper and pinch combo to the high right foot...which is also terrible...then get the left foot over the roof and make a desperate right hand bump to the sharp flake-like hold...find a better right foot and then go to a series of good hands to the anchors...totally awesome!
Sep 18, 2011
My new project. Too bad I can't close to pull the crux. Maybe this fall.
May 12, 2011
A friend and I went to climb here one evening, sans guidebook. We started on this one, thought it looked good...and it was, save the ankle breaker brick below the slick crux! Careful.
Jun 2, 2010
Most of the route is 11- or a, then getting up to the roof turns to harder 11, then over the roof turns to 12. If you can't crimp on quarter pad two finger holds, you're not gonna mantle, I didn't.
Oct 18, 2009
Tried this one on top rope. At the bottom you're like wow I'm climbing a 12, then reality sets in at the roof and its welcome to I-still-suck-ville.
May 30, 2009
I could not stick the "paste high and reach" beta at the crux, but here is an alternative sequence that worked for me. I did a left heel-hook/smear on the side of the wall under the roof, reached up/fell into the left hand pinch-thing, and then reached out to the not-so-good right hand. With the left heel in place, my body was less extended so I could work my feet over the lip. Fun moves.
Jul 2, 2008
Fun route. The lower horizontal crimps seemed rather polished, but the ledges are so long you can find your own sweet spot to go off of. This felt really hard the first time I went up, took awhile to figure out a sequence through the roof
Jun 13, 2008
This one is superhard. I ended up going right to the finger crack and then lowering and doing the crux on TR. I do have some beta. Fortunately, I can reach up to the crappy right crimper and then bump my left hand to the sidepull before the right smears off. It's hard to see from below, but there is a hole by the sidepull that you can put your left thumb in. This is key: now you can squeeze with the left hand which is significantly better than using the sidepull alone. Then, I get the left foot on lame almost-vertical edge under the roof and get the right foot up on an infitesimal nubbin. Then the left foot goes up to a smear over the roof. I have to use the left knee for balance just to get the left foot there. Now, you have two crappy feet, a crappy right hand, and a just somewhat-poor squeeze with the left hand. Now, go for the top of the ear (not big) with the right, get the right foot up to a small ledge below the bolt, and you are done.
Aug 27, 2006
So this is what a 5.12 feels like, huh??? Ouch. I like the above comment of paste your feet high... There really isn't a defined feature upon which one must place such a paste. Shameless Beta. Beware!!! Left foot goes on the tiny vertical crimp (you can see it plainly from the roof-rest pedestal), then get your lieback on, reach for the crappy positive crimp, then smear the right foot wherever you can. Power up to the small "ear-looking" feature with your hands (I had to be a little dynamic with this) and put your right foot on a thank-God tiny but long-ish ledge that is colored with lichen. I didn't really use the sidepull much to get over the roof. I just used it for stability AFTER getting over. Do what you will. I don't think I'll ever be leading trad .12s if this is par for the course. Freakin' hard. Props to those who can OS this crap... (Up to the crux IS REALLY fun though)~Wm
Nov 8, 2004
Heh...I remember trying to haul my ass up this climb several years ago...fun stuff but never could do it. I think with enough weight on the rope from my belayer I finally got over the crux. I loved the lower face though...tiny crimps!
Jul 26, 2004
So ok, "paste your feet high" where? I could reach the sidepull crimp (up and left of the last bolt) with my left, and something not-so-great with my right, but I was so extended, on marginal feet, that I couldn't haul up. now, it was a hot day and stuff, and I suck and all, but I couldn't even figure out a plausible sequence.
Jul 26, 2004
Tony, I've read other comments of yours that state you have pretty long arms. While I found similar to you that this climb was more or less impossible to me, it was actually because no matter how hard I tried I just couldn't reach the crimp beyond the roof. I climb all of the route alright until the roof, where I past my feet as Kristo said and reach hard, falling short by almost a foot. I don't know if you had the same difficulties as me, given your long arms, but I, too, think this climb has to be extremely relative in grade unlike many others.
Oct 23, 2003
Like warm apple pie?
Jun 30, 2003
OK, I'll stick my thumb in this pie...I couldn't even DOG the sequence of this one on TR. I tried 1/2 dozen times and just couldn't do it. Seeing as how in the same month I onsighted other 12s, I guess that made me think it was hard. One climb I had a much easier climb on was one that other's are saying the reverse of. I guess it depends on what you are good at. For me, this was terribly hard (read: impossible for ME).
Jun 30, 2003
C'mon, man. It's not THAT bad. I climbed it the same day as you (with all the fog, etc.?). It was hard to stick on the upper crimp and the feet because of the low friction. Big deal.
Jun 30, 2003
I must have climbed this route on a different day that all of you guys, because I thought that this route was THE most glossed over route in the country. I had to chalk up 30 times on the lower part and the crux was not doable........it was not doable. I could not smear. I was extremely disappointed in this route. 5.13a on glossy days.
Jun 27, 2003
Definitely a good route. Some holds look chipped, might be me though. The roof is the best part. Altogether, a kickass climb.
May 20, 2002
This is a great route. The crux is very well defined and you know to save the juice for this part. It is indeed height dependant, as some people may be able to reach and pull down on the upper crimp a lot easier, but there is always the tricky feet. Just paste them high and pull down as suggested.
Sep 25, 2001
It's 12a if you're tall, just paste your feet high and reach!
Sep 6, 2001
Agreed...very tricky feet...the crimpy stuff looks good, and it is easy to forget your feet. a hard on-sight.
Jan 1, 2001
The bottom of the route has a maximum of about 10d/11a but the crux is pulling over the little roof at the last bolt. Tricky footwork and crimpy holds.
Jan 1, 2001
- Arête
Great route. Not .10b if you stay on the arete left side, probably .9+/.10a.
Feb 13, 2013
You all have sandbags in your pants. The route's a soft 10a, but still 10a up to the 2nd to last bolt, then moving over the roof, yes even with the holds on the arete, is 10b/c. Suckers. Just stay right of the arete, or you're on a different climb.
Oct 18, 2009
The FA of this was done by Clay Wadman and Mark Gay and they rated it 10- and placed only two or three bolts. Mark Rolofson decided it needed more.
Jul 21, 2004
What is the bolted route just around and to the left of the Arete. It looks like 5.8 with some easy runouts?? New route with nice anchor up high.
May 13, 2004
Try doing this route WITHOUT using arete holds on the left, and you might agree with the 10d rating. If one chickens out to the left (especially at the roof) it is 9+ in my book. Great climb!
Oct 22, 2003
Last lead in the dark yesterday. This is by far my favorite .10 in the canyon. Climb it fast and dynamically for some serious fun. I use two slots to the west of the arete, but think that this could be why some think the climb is easier than a 5.10... If you lead 5.9 sport, this climb is a perfect project. If you lead 5.11b, don't use ANYTHING on the left side of the arete and you'll have a challenge, especially at the roof. Rebuttals???
Sep 23, 2003
A lot of people on this site, self included also 'upgrade' climbs. I think the tendency over time is to downgrade certain types of climbes from the FA's rating, as easier sequences are discovered. Others will be upgraded, as holds break off. It's just the nature of things.
Apr 15, 2003
Yeah, you're right. After rereading my comment, I realized I sounded like a dick. I just think it's weird that people are trying to downplay others' accomplishments at every level on this website by downgrading everything.
Apr 14, 2003
Beta is beta.. is the purpose of the site. There is a big difference between 5.9 and 5.10d when someone who only red points 5.9 is looking for a safe project to work on. They'd probably forgo the 5.10d.
Apr 14, 2003
Are you people seriously debating the ratings of this climb? Is there actually a difference between a closely bolted 5.10 and a closely bolted 5.9? Give it a rest....
Apr 13, 2003
5.9 if you've got the crag to yourself, 5.10d (and very run out, senorita) if there are any girls around.
Jul 18, 2002
Is this honestly a 10d? The roof is maybe 10a or b. Very cool climb.
May 20, 2002
This route, I believe is at least a 10b maybe c if you continue up, staying a bit to the right just beneath the last bolt instead of moving left around the arete then going up and finally coming back around to the right to clip the last bolt. I have seen many people do this including myself. When it is done this way it is definately put at 5.9. If you go straight up an undercling is needed to make a good reach to clip that last bolt.
Dec 21, 2001
A good route, did it awhile back. I can't justify the 10d rating but would give it 10b/c, if you are using the holds all over the left face perhaps the route is 10a, but being an arete and doing the route keeping this in mind I think the rating stands. The proper name of the route, just for bookkeeping sakes is "Sunshine Arete".
Sep 25, 2001
...besides the route is only 9+/10a anyway. Seriously, can ANYONE justify the 10d rating? A pal of mine who leads mostly 5.9s found it to be easy, too.
Aug 10, 2001
Yes I will comment! This is a fun route! do not bother top-roping, all of the bolts are within reach of good stances and the crux moves are a hoot!
Jan 1, 2001
- Bock!
There are a lot of loose blocks at the top, but there's a detached block on the right wall - a logical foothold if trying to move around right to the anchor for the arete - which is ready to go and extremely dangerous for anyone on the ground. I'd recommend heading straight up and belaying from the tree. This would be OK if the bushy start and rubble-filled finish were cleaned, but it's hard to recommend it as is.
Oct 26, 2015
- Boiling Point
- Caddis/Argus
- Capital Punishment
The theory is that a broken hold has upped the grade for Mr Stiffie to 14a from 13d. There is no new line, just an altered route. BTW Mr Stiffie should be its own route as it uses the arete more than the crack as it heads right along the upper section.
Jun 3, 2010
So, is it Mr. Stiffie, by T. Caldwell, .13d, via the direct start (aka Rob's direct start)? The new BoCan guide has the low left Mr. Stiffie at 14a, with the direct start. What is the line!?
Jun 2, 2010
Freed by Caldwell in 1997; now called Mr. Stiffie, 13d.
Feb 9, 2005
- Constrictor
TR'ed it today. It has some interesting moves on it then a grunt-and-hump-the-flake kind o' thing to finish off the crux (at least for me). Watch out for the bat shit. A bit short but maybe worth doing once. There are bolts above this you can scramble to in order to set up the TR. We put one long cordelette with a master point on the bolts and then used another full cordelette (two, actually, for redundancy) in a long loop to extend the anchor point just beyond a sort of finger thingie. Worked well.
Sep 10, 2017
- Dan-D-Line
Found a short strap with a snap-buckle at the bottom of this route. Doubt anyone would take the trouble to get it back, but if it's yours and you want it, message me to claim.
Aug 12, 2011
Instead of going to the break in the roof, pull the roof. There is a good undercling and then good holds over the top... adds some fun to an easy line (pulling the roof directly is probably still only 5.7).
Jun 29, 2008
The more difficult section of the climb, the roof and above, has reasonable pro opportunities. Study the route from the bottom and plan accordingly. While perhaps not a good beginner 5.6 trad lead, I rather liked the "tricky" pro-placing scenario. For that reason, the climb is a good mental test at the grade.
Jun 13, 2008
- Ebb Tide
Definitely does not require houdini moves. Straightforward, strenuous pulling brings it home.
Mar 5, 2002
I did the crux on big fun reaches without going horizontal. Good route, hard to let go to put in gear at the crux though, so protect early and often, then at the crux, fire for it.
Aug 10, 2001
Be aware of a 1 ton barely attatched death block on top of this route. It sits right in the v of the dihedral at the top. The approach on the west (left) side of Nip is not recommended. It is loose, I knocked some SERIOUS rocks into the road from here. The gully between [Nip and Tuck] would be much safer....
Jan 1, 2001
- Finger Crack
Fun lead on some small-ish gear. There is a old cam lodged way back in the crack. Spent some time trying to fish it out but no luck.
Aug 10, 2016
After the easy start, the first couple moves - cranking on finger locks with basically nothing for feet - is solid 5.10 (at Yosemite, the Needles, Joshua Tree, etc). Just because it's short doesn't mean people should sandbag. After those first couple cranks, it eases off to 5.9.
Oct 26, 2015
Getting really greasy.
Jul 23, 2015
This route is a lot of fun, but I agree that it would be a bit hairy for a more beginner leader. It's pretty much dead vertical, and not all the stances are that great to place gear. That said, the gear is bomber, and the moves are a lot of fun. Definitely not harder than 5.9, but it's not an easy 9.
Apr 22, 2015
Great crack. Super painful on the muscles for the new crack climber, I was screaming like the pros to get my arms to work. The feet are much better than they look.
Apr 7, 2014
Awesome finger crack! Best 5.9 I've done in a long time. Two-hang on lead; flash on TR. A couple gear placements are real strenuous.
Feb 13, 2013
Grease is getting worse. Watch your hand jams carefully. Climbed it this weekend again, and it's worse than the first time I climbed it. Lots of chalk making it super slick too. Still a fun climb though.
Jul 5, 2011
Greasy, but fun. I have a half broken ankle, and found plenty of horizontal ledges to stand on, part crack, part face climb.
Oct 18, 2009
This crack made for a nice first clean aid climb. Solid gear and short enough to complete with a standard free-climbing rack. C1 perhaps? I have no idea.
Oct 5, 2008
This route is really short, but it is a good quality crack. Easy access makes this a good easy trad route. If this crack were in the middle of a multipitch climb, it would be a classic pitch.
Sep 23, 2007
This is a great climb for the moderate or advanced trad climber. I would not recommend that it be climbed by novice trad climbers as there are not very many good spots to rest or put pro in. A great climb on TR for the moderately skilled crack climber. A little greasy on hot days. I also found some blood on a small ledge. Overall an excellent climb sans the grease, blood, or typical weekend crowds.
Jul 2, 2005
"A lot of fun. Fairly sustained. Great intro to crack climbing. " Finger crack that is. There are maybe 2 hands on this route. I used one #1 Camalot, but everything else was in the .5" to .75" range. Felt like I was climbing at Table Mtn... greasy and short (fun nonetheless).
Apr 5, 2005
The rock all around is plenty solid. No worries on getting anyone hurt. If anyone rescues a blue Smiley's #7 nut from the crack about 2/3 the way up, I'd REALLY appreciate it back. A nut tool + rock hammer may be required as my buddy didn't really know how to clean it and made the situation a lot worse... Also, if someone has a LOT of free time on their hands, please help me scrub that crack with a bouldering brush. It needs the abrasion. Thanks.
Sep 23, 2003
Has anyone else noticed the suspect nature of the rock that the right (east) top anchor is drilled into? It may be ok, but the rock around the bolt sounds a little hollow when pounded on with your hand.
Jun 3, 2003
A lot of fun. Fairly sustained. Great intro to crack climbing.
Apr 21, 2003
Cool climb! Bring your chalkbag... I climbed it after it was toproped by everyone in a large party. Very greasy (monkey traverse).
Sep 3, 2002
Fantastic route! Bomber gear and interesting moves throughout most of the climb. I placed a few mid-sized stoppers and found a great spot for a Green Alien about 3/4 of the way up.
Jul 20, 2002
There are currently two bolts at the top of the crack making an easy setup for top rope. -casey bernal
Dec 4, 2001
- Gyro Captain
12b.
Aug 3, 2005
12b.
Jul 24, 2004
After doing the route earlier this winter, I felt it was around 12b. Maybe the bouldery and short nature of the climb just fit my style, not sure. In any case,it's a great line and worth climbing, especially if you dont like to hike, or have a lot of time.
Jul 24, 2004
Just want clarify I am Nick Spoog and this is not Senor Samet (say Senor Samet with a French accent like the French castle guard in Monty Python's Holy Grail - it's kinda fun). Anyway, I've digressed.......oh yeah, I also wanna make it clear that Spoogie-mon made no quality or ratings comment concerning this climb. I've never even seen it. P.S. - drum circle Friday night at theWasteland.... all are welcome.
Jul 22, 2004
I agree Bob. I am surprised that Ted calls this 12b. How hard do people feel the 13c a bit to the left is (I forget its name)? bobl
Jul 21, 2004
Seems to Spoog that it's hard to compare grades from one climbing area with grades of another climbing area. How about we compare the grade for a climb in one are to other climbs in the same area. (i.e., compare Gyro Captian to other climbs in Boulder Canyon). The result of within-climbing area grade comparison will of course be that some areas will have a reputation as soft and others as sandbagged, but hopefully there will be consistentcy within the climbing area (in this case Boulder Canyon). (I'm on a bit of a crusade regarding my above comment and am hoping to persuade many to this way of thinking)..... what do you think?
Jul 21, 2004
- Hare Balls
The book... well, let's talk about that book. It is not accurate. The route is commonly led. It is also a popular toprope.
Sep 24, 2017
Tony, I wouldn't suggest such sacrilege [especially in a town that owns so many pitchforks], but my book lists it only as a toprope route, while its neighbor to the left is listed as 5.8R trad. Thanks for clarifying.
Apr 12, 2015
To the above I answer: Absolutely there is a reason. Because it has been lead on trad alone for decades. One does not just go adding bolts to climbs that have been done trad.
Apr 12, 2015
Fun route! Any reason why it hasn't been equipped as a sport or mixed lead?
Apr 11, 2015
An excellent beginner toprope. Chains at the top and easy walk up provides an excellent beginner outdoor climbing gym. Try lots of variations till your heart's content. It doesn't make sense to use this as a trad lead. If you want to do trad, try the obvious, dihedral crack to the left. It eats gear and is a perfect intro to trad.
Jun 9, 2010
A very easy and simple toprope. It could be done on trad with very severe run outs, but there is a a lack of any bottleneck placements. For all of those who seek the more natural approach to the top, do not bring rigid-stemmed cams....
Jul 2, 2005
- Heart Throb
Replaced the bolt today: Old 3/8" Star-Dryvin from Heart Throb next to the new bolt, a 1/2 x 2.75" stainless Power-Bolt. Hardware provided by your donations to the ASCA! safeclimbing.org
Mar 10, 2017
This must be the hardest 10 at the cliff. Perhaps one of the easier 11's? Moving right under the roof is difficult and getting to the jug is a pretty stiff move for 5.10. Or maybe I was totally missing something, but I did it twice and it was hard both times despite trying to find another way. Maybe I did not find the crux head-jam. The bolt protecting the tricky mantle above the roof is pretty crap. An old [Star-Dryven] with a rusty [Leeper]. The route runs out above the bolt too, so this requires some either element of faith, confidence, or stupidity to get far above. It should be replaced someday and is probably not good to push your grade on. I could write a small [article] called "how to epic" on 5.10 regarding this route. '...It all started by placing my red camalot down low, just for the heck of it. I didn't want or need gear, but the placement was [begging] to be had, so I placed it. [Then] I got up under [the] roof, where the red would have been perfect. I tried the green- pretty crappy, so [I] shoved the yellow in. [This] resulted in an over-stuffed crack with a solid placement, although tricky and with one lobe of the camming unit in a crux finger edge... Now I'd placed the red and yellow. Climbing the roof I came out and up above the crap bolt a ways and out left to what would have been a good yellow camalot placement., but I'd placed the yellow where [the] red should have been. So I shoved in a blue in a flare and traversed left out a bit and up to the belay, which would have been perfectly set on a Blue Camalot, but alas... It all started with a red camalot.
May 21, 2005
- Hypotenuse
Climbed both the corner (lead) and the thin crack on the face (TR). Both could be considered dicey for gear by modern standards. Both lines are super fun.
Jun 29, 2015
I'm not sure which guidebook you guys are using, but for the last 34 years, Hypotenuse has always been the thin crack in the face to the right of the corner. To quote Erickson's book 'Rocky Heights' from 1980: "a prominent, open book on the right hand rock. Climb a thin crack on the right hand wall (5.9+)."
Apr 20, 2014
Bring your baby Aliens/small stuff, this climb can be thin! The bottom of the dihedral currently sports a fixed WC Zero. I placed an okay nut above that and then a black Alien protecting the crux. Once through the crux, a great #1 C4 can be had. Enjoy!
May 20, 2013
Super classic. Fun easy stemming moves around a roof. Good rock and steep without difficulty make this a classic.
Aug 28, 2012
Three routes in this little rock. Stay left into the dihedral, lots of fun. I would say 5.9. Run the finger crack up the center, only two moves make this a climb otherwise its pretty simple. 5.8+ maybe a 5.9. Then run the nose to the left, very simple a little chossy. I would say 5.6 or 5.7.
Nov 26, 2008
I see I am wrong about Boiling Point being the cracks right of Hypotenuse. Boiling Point seems to be further right around the corner, facing the road. What are the cracks just right of Hypotenuse?
Oct 24, 2003
Good climb. We wondered why, in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guide, Hypotenuse was starred but Boiling Point, the more obvious and nice looking cracks to the right was not starred. Hypotenuse has interesting stemming moves. There are sloped ledges and holds on the left wall, but the right wall is essentially blank much of the way. Gear ranges from brass nuts and microcams to #1 and #2 Camalots.
Oct 24, 2003
Fun! Well named -- Tony Bubb calls it a study in the angles of forces.
Oct 24, 2001
- Left-angling Crack
This route isn't all that bad. The crux is down low in the starting crack. A committing dyno to get your hand in the crack and it's done. There is good small pro here, and you are only at boulder height anyway. Once you are around the roof, it's fun 5.6-7 slab climbing a bit runout. Climb strtaight up for better rock. All in all, a fun climb.
Aug 28, 2012
This route sucks. Do the bottom as a boulder problem if you like and spare yourself the garbage above. "Left Angling Crack" is a rotten, flaring seam full of dirt and veg that will lead you into a rubble filled corner above poor pro.
Aug 8, 2004
The start seemed hard. Brass nuts. There is good gear on the easier slab above--no need to run it out. Green Alien to #2/Gold Camalot. Lots of loose rock as you reach the belay ledge.
Oct 24, 2003
- Lethal Dose
- Mr. Spiffy
Um. Really?!
May 10, 2016
Someone stole my quickdraws from this route couple of days ago.... I saw a group of people climbing there recently, and draws were hanging, so next time I see them I will ask to give it back. This is sad that this kind of things happens in climbing community....
May 10, 2016
Thanks, Peter.. BTW all, this is a photo by Andy Mann!!
May 28, 2008
Chris, That is amazing even with mondo pads. Way to go! BTW the mantel on Mr Spiffy is just past the last pad in the photo so you're looking at a 30' drop onto jagged rocks on a 13a crux. The start is definitely harder than V8. That's probably the most significant highball/solo in the Front Range in quite a while. I can't believe it wasn't reported! bouldercanyonbouldering.blo…
May 27, 2008
Hi there.. To clarify, both myself and Seth Allred bouldered out this route a while back. I've also heard that Dave Graham bouldered it out a few years ago. Maybe V8 from the direct. Yep, a pretty scary mantle but not unreasonable with 3 mondo pads.... ;) Buttermilk-like....
May 27, 2008
Attn. Peter Beal, I am wondering why is Mr. Stiffy not in the guide? This route is a "classic" short, hard, contrived, very painful, also would like to note there is no " HIKING" for my little legs! Thanks so very much for listing!
May 22, 2004
If anyone bouldered this out ground-up, everyone would hear about it. A dicey balancy crux at 20+ feet with a deadly landing. 13X for sure
Apr 14, 2003
Pat Adams did the first ascent of this route.
Apr 14, 2003
- Mr. Stiffy
- Night Train
The rock just below the roof is poor and scaley, and the pro is less than great. COnsider this route to be rated "S."
May 22, 2002
- Old Dihedral
Took my 10 year old sister here for her first outdoor climb! She really seemed to enjoy it and setting up was super easy. To the left there is an easy upclimb, and I used an easy to set up tree anchor.
Nov 22, 2017
Be aware that there is a HUGE loose block in the dihedral which, in my mind, makes this forgettable pitch not worth the risk.
Jul 1, 2015
- Spread Eages Dhare
This route is not worth the effort and hardly 5.9, and it is totally safe by putting a nut up in the crack on the face and then coming down a bit to traverse to the corner. Like the previous comment, don't waste your time on this route, but do the crack in the face instead.
May 29, 2017
A little confusing. The arete blows, with lichen everywhere and not but maybe one section of good movement, certainly no more than 5.7, excepting the chance or a big TR swing, but the obvious crack between the arcing dihedral and the arete (a nameless crack apparently) is a really fun route, and runs a solid 5.9 imho.
Oct 21, 2016
- Surprising Slab
I thought this route was a lot of fun. This and the adjacent Hare Balls and Dan-D-Line all have variations you can try making it a good place to easily get in a bunch of enjoyable pitches in a short period of time especially if you just want a laid back day. Good area to practice things. Would be perfect for someone wanting to transition from the gym to climbing outside.
Jun 25, 2011
This is an excellent, beginner, toproping area. Not mutch pro and no bolts but its not meant for leading. Great place to go if you are just starting out toproping. The anchors are super easy to setup and access and you can spend the day here trying different variations. Why pay for the gym when you can be outdoors under a great shade tree? If you want to learn to lead, sew up the dihedral crack to the right. It goes at ~5.2 and takes all the gear you can throw at it. Walk off, too.
Jun 9, 2010
This whole face is an excellent TR location for beginners and intermediates as well as those aspiring to learn how to build anchors. Access to the top is easy, and there is ample up top to build various anchors. Also, free soloing the dihedral to the right is fantastic and straightforward.
Jun 13, 2008
Steve Dieckhoff thought this climb was noteworthy enough to include in is outstanding book, Serious Play: An Annotated Guide to Traditional Front Range Classics. There's a quote worth mentioning about this climb: "You could spend hours toproping different variations on this face, eliminating holds until there are none left. The grace, technique and confidence you learn while mastering this type of climbing will serve you well in your climbing career" (p.49).
May 29, 2008
Anybody know if there is a name for the route just right of where the rope falls - and does the wall with chains just to the right of this wall have a name?
Aug 11, 2006
A bomb? Come on, people. Maybe not classic, but fun and thoughtful. Harder but more interesting than the right-hand route on this face. You can make this one as hard or as easy as you want on TR.
Jun 27, 2006
If this is the route I think it is, I'm going to have to disagree with the bomb rating. Sure, there is little to no gear for leading, but this is a fun TR. The hand holds are far apart and maybe not so good, but the feet just appear like magic.
Jul 15, 2002
Definitely not worth doing. Not much pro at the bottom. Gets better at the top, but it still sux. Better climbing to be had right of this route.
May 20, 2002
- Unknown A
One move wonder, but it was a stiff one move for a 5.8.
Oct 23, 2016
Does anyone know who was the FA on this route; and/or who bolted it originally?
Jul 17, 2016
- Unknown B
Does anyone know who was the FA on this route; and/or who bolted it originally?
Jul 17, 2016
- Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route)
The pro before the first bolt is unlikely to hold due to rock quality. As is, it's just dumb, it either should have a bolt at the start, or just remove them all and return it to the original state....
Oct 26, 2015
George, did you and Beverly name it?
Jul 8, 2015
In 1994, I led Beverly Bien up this route. There were no bolts.
Jul 8, 2015
Lots of scrambling in between 2 sections that make that up. While not a total bomb, there are reasons why people bolted a lot around there but not this one. I more or less lead/bouldered/soloed everything around there in 2001 and never thought it was worthy of mention or attention. This line does protect on a few small cams low down prior to bolt #1. Here is the question - isn't that about all the protection you need? If you can do that, the rest is a cake walk.
Jun 10, 2015
A beginner will have trouble finding the protection placements below the first bolt.
Apr 14, 2013
I placed two small cams near the bottom, and it seemed perfectly safe to me.
Apr 4, 2013
There are a bunch of large loose rocks near the ledge around 4/5ths of the way up. I removed a few of the melon-size rocks that were ready to knock out a belayer, but there are still some sketchy pieces up there. Be careful and you'll be fine. Note: Most of this route can be toproped by walking out onto the ledge referenced above. Anchor yourself to the easily accessible bolt for safety, and use the large boulder in combination with the bolt to build your toprope anchor.
Aug 12, 2011
As a fledgling 7 trad and 8 sport leader, I got freaked below the 1st bolt. The #7 stopper placement looked a bit iffy. Backed off and spotted a nice little crack from the ground. Double zero C3 saved the day, I hung on that puppy to test it... beautiful! Absolute comfort cruise from there.
May 26, 2011
Not the greatest route. The start is the best part of the route and the pro is reasonable if you are confortable with trad climbing. I put in a small cam in a horizontal crack low down and the nut in the undercling. Both were good placements. So, as a 5.7 trad route, it's fine but unsustained. As a sport climb, this sucks. Once you get to the first bolt, you walk past three more to the ledge. Then there is one way too low and two above where the climbing gets fun again. So, basically there are three reasonable bolts on the thing. Would it have killed them to put one bolt down low? I guess I understand not putting bolts next to gear placements, but I think it's lousy how many grid bolted climbs have a highball boulder start, as if it's some kind of ego thing. This is clearly a beginner climb, so trade one of the plentiful bolts on the 5.0 ramp for one down low and you have a safe, beginner route.
Jun 9, 2010
If you have some bouldering experience, it's an easy enough lead to do with no pro to the first bolt.
May 21, 2010
I think this is a good beginner lead, depending upon what you lead. If one is just breaking into 5.7, probably not! The first bolt is high up, I did the aforementioned small cam in the undercling, I felt it was solid and did not worry going for the bolt. You gotta admit, it is 5.7, no harder. The second crux is not thin really, just have to spend a minute figuring it out. I think it's great to have a quick warmup climb before hitting other stuff on the crag!
Oct 22, 2003
Only a good beginner lead if the first bolt is clipped as Tonya mentioned. This was my girlfriend's first lead (sport or trad), and she's been on Supercrack Buttress with me in IC. She follows 10a trad and didn't feel comfortable clipping the first bolt. Be advised.~Wm
Sep 23, 2003
We climbed this route yesterday...after trudging through four feet of snow to get to the base. Gosh, do I sound like my grandpa telling stories of walking to school in the old days? Here is my two cents on this one....my hubby is a "beginner leader"....this was his second lead and he cruised it...now he is 6' tall and has been climbing for three years. After he led it, he pulled the rope, and it fell leaving the first bolt clipped so I could lead with little/no risk of hitting the ground should I fall off doing the initial crux move. This is my second year of leading, and I am 5'2". I was thrilled to have the rope running through the first bolt given the ground rush potential. I agree....there was protection had I chosen to place a piece before the bolt. I actually found this section to be easy (of course - I had no risk)....it was the upper crux where the two bolts are close that I found to be the hardest moves...it is protected but a fall before the second bolt would result in hitting the ledge...it is a couple of dicey moves and very thin. Beginner route....the verdict is still out....I vote "no."
Mar 31, 2003
I applaud the 'ground-up' style (very reasonable on this terrain) and can easily understand the qualms about this being a 'beginner route'; however, the use of clean protection at the bottom shouldn't preclude 5.7 leaders from trying this. There are two placements possible to protect the initial section, and while neither is ideal, it should be quite easy to climb back to the ground to test them if you are having any doubts about pulling past them. This is a good habit to adopt - beginner or not. (I led it w/o clipping the bolts, since the first couple also offer nut placements and the climbing is about 5.2 anyway....the last 2 bolts seem warranted though.)
Sep 11, 2002
The crux 5.7 protects with a single #7 stopper at about eye level. Clip a single biner to this, and then clip the bolt once you're through. If that nut pulls out later, who cares? The other partially cruxy section is after the ledge, but the bolts here protect you real well. Maybe not such a great beginner route, since the start can be freaky. I saw two guys trying this route in hiking boots and a 2-foot runner on that #7 stopper. You can imagine how far they got. Plus, that nut placement got stuck, and they walked around to rappel down to get it. Ha! Don't do this. You really have to rappel this route from top. Otherwise, you're in for some vertical bushwaking w/no belay. If you really wan't to, you can set up a belay/rap at the ledge with a bolt and a #2 Camalot, or something weird like that.
Sep 11, 2002
This is described as located left of "Sunset Arete"... is this the same as "Arete", which is left of the classic finger crack? I saw some bolts here - the first one is high, and the route continues up low angle rock and a sort of a headwall. In semi-darkness it looked dicy to get to the first bolt.
Sep 5, 2002
Good beginner route? Ha! The start is the best part, but the tiny cam stuck in the undercling (I eshewed the RPs in the cracks to that point) at the 5.7 crux is a couple feet below you, and I wouldn't want to fall on it. It was actually kind-of fun, but we were kidding each other that we were in England, on Gritstone, climbing at the crux above marginal gear. Not a really good beginner route.
Jul 18, 2002
- Nursing Home
- Angel of Mercy
If you are comfortable on class 3/4, you can quickly approach this climb from the left as well - 5-10 feet of climbing is all it takes. On another note - there is a huge pile of crap right under the first bolt. We really couldn't think of a large enough animal that would be also agile enough to get to that spot. Even weirder is that the same pile is clearly visible on the pictures posted here on MP dated back to 2007. WTF?
Jan 25, 2014
There is a huge jug in the center. When you grab it, your feet will be dangling in space.
Apr 28, 2013
Great moves, but you clip one bolt before starting, then 2 more and then the anchors... the bolts are 5' apart. So the meat of the climbing is 10-15 feet. Great fun, but over quickly. If it were not for the deadly landing (sloper ledge to a 60' drop), it would be a boulder problem. As is, it's better off, but wish it was longer.
Jun 11, 2009
Great route, great moves! Definitely worth the slab scramble. Thanks for putting these up!
Sep 17, 2007
To get to the belay, approach up a gully on the right side of the the main rock and traverse carefully across slabs to the base of the climb. This is easy if no snow on the slabs. A few cams will make the belay more comfortable. The view from the horn halfway up is worth it!
Feb 6, 2006
- Aricept
Wins the award for worst route in Boulder Canyon, maybe even in Colorado.
Oct 18, 2016
5.11b if you don't use the block behind you (like a sit-down start from the low undercling). Some think harder still. If you start on the block it might be 11- though, or perhaps even less if you walk up it to start far to the left. Regardless, interesting opening moves lead to more mellow climbing once your feet are above the roof.
Aug 23, 2007
- Depends
We placed a nut between the second and third bolts.
Apr 28, 2013
Fun slab route. There are two new bolts (in addition to the ones in the picture), one 10ft up from the first bolt (in the picture), and a second new bolt between the last bolt and the anchors. I only used two small cams - 2inch and a 1/4inch to protect the rest. Fixed protection are in really good condition.
Sep 29, 2008
The slab down low is slippery when wet and is not protected. Be careful.
Aug 23, 2007
A fun slab route. I protected the last move to the anchor with a #1 Ball Nut; another bolt here might be a good idea.
Sep 4, 2006
- Devil in Disguise
Surprisingly enjoyed this route. It's a pain to find but actually not too hard to get to. The route feels like more of a boulder problem as all the moves seem sustained but for only ~20 feet of climbing. I noticed the hanger on the right anchor when looking up was a little loose, but the bolt seemed tight. I'd say this route is still worth checking out.
Aug 6, 2015
This looks a lot harder from the ground than it really is.
Apr 28, 2013
Great holds at somewhat less than ideal angles. Climbs like a steep route- too bad it is a pain to get to the base and too bad its only 20' long... 5X longer would make it a sought-after classic.
Jun 11, 2009
- Digital Stimulation
- Elder Abuse
The crux is protected by some awkward gear in not-so-great rock. The bolt just above the overhang can be clipped from above the crux, but frankly, I skipped it until after due to an awkward stance. Not a great route. As if to punctuate the questionable nature of some of the rock on this climb, a hold broke off just above the crux while I was downclimbing it from the top. This might have been one of the options for a clipping hold.
Aug 23, 2007
- Failure To Thrive
The holds at the crux of this all seem to be located on the right hand side.
Apr 28, 2013
- Freak Brothers
- Grampa's Day Out
Dangerous for a 5.9 leader, easy to deck on the sharp ledge if you blow the crux moves getting past the first bolt. Also it's solid 5.10 if you try to go straight to the second bolt instead of staying right (and even staying right is very tough 5.9). I wouldn't be surprised if a hold or two broke off at some point. Short leaders may need an extendo draw to clip the first bolt.
Aug 23, 2015
Hard for 5.9.
Jul 19, 2013
Not bad, I agree the hardest part was at the first bolt. Some cool moves up higher.
Jan 8, 2013
Agree with LG that the moves below the first bolt are the most difficult. You can ensure that you get that first bolt clipped (I can do it being 5'9"), then work the bouldery start. After that start, I had fun. Some of the holds are a little dirty.
Sep 10, 2012
I liked this little route. It seemed that the hardest moves were the footwork to get on the wall at the first bolt. Also, one of the blocks you're likely to pull on to get up to the ledge, about 3/4 of the way up on the right, isn't solid and looks glued down with dirt.
Aug 22, 2009
- Hip Replacement
I agree with most of the above comments, either stick clip, or worst case it's a 6ft fall from the large jug to a flat landing. 3 fun moves of a boulder problem to uninspiring 5.7 climbing above.
Sep 15, 2017
Moves up to the first bolt felt pretty hard for 10d. Being tall helps....
Jun 10, 2016
This is basically a V something or other boulder problem with 5.7 climbing to the anchors. Not really worth the shoulder wrenching 1st moves.
Jul 19, 2013
I guess I could call this 10+, but I thought the opening sequence up to the jug above the first bolt was trickier than anything on Early Bird Special, across the street. I up and downclimbed the opening section 5 or 6 times before I found beta that worked for me without having to lunge through it, and then it was still hard. It is an interesting boulder problem, but the rest of the route left much to be desired.
Oct 17, 2007
I agree with Ron's assessment, above. This felt like a fun, interesting V1/V2 boulder problem (easier for tall folks) followed by a short bit of 5.8 climbing. Recommend a stick clip or a crash pad and spotters for the first bolt.
Oct 9, 2007
At the request of a climber, I have equipped Hip Replacement with its own set of anchors. This will eliminate rope abrasion while lowering or top roping.
Sep 16, 2007
Height or arm-length dependent. A reach followed by a scrunch problem. You have to make a semi-hard move to clip the first bolt, so in reality, you might as well be bouldering the start. And that's pretty safe- the point is to get a spot at the beginning. This route is 37 feet long including the top-out to the anchors.
Aug 23, 2007
Definitely bring the stick clip for this one unless you're a solid 5.11 leader. The crux sequence requires some precise body position while the pump meter is ticking. My partners and I all did the final move to the jug as a dyno with the left hand crossing over. After that, it's an easy ramble to the anchor shared with Lost Dentures.
Sep 5, 2006
When first led by Bob, the big jug did not exist. A 2 foot high detached column sat on the jug. After we realized it was loose, we pushed it off to avoid an accident.
Apr 16, 2006
The first move of this climb is interesting but the rest not too exciting. If you had a pad you could do this as a boulder problem, since the crux isn't that high. The first move is burly, requiring a powerful powerful shoulder to push off the left flake to get the left-facing incut with the right hand. (I don't recommend trying the intermediates.) Being taller helps. From here you can lock off and clip. Then you reach up (I crossed over with the left) to the right to a big jug and the climb is done.
Apr 16, 2006
- Lost Dentures
The climbing was interesting, too bad it was so short.
Sep 15, 2017
This route has one bolt up high.
Apr 28, 2013
I generally agree, Dougald. Just thinking out loud. I guess it's the very short nature of this route and wall that caused me to think about it that way. The routes at Nursing Home are almost like overgrown boulder problems.
Oct 18, 2007
Ken wrote: "I just don't see the point of carrying a rack to do twenty-five feet of easy mixed climbing. Just my opinion." Fair enough. Your opinion. But some of us think mixed routes (bolts and gear) provide some of the most enjoyable and interesting face climbs around. It's great to have a variety of routes (sport, trad, and mixed) in an area.
Oct 18, 2007
This is a fun little pitch. I found a perfect #10 stopper placement in a finger slot that protects the moves up to the bolt. You could plug an Alien in here, but then there would be no room for your fingers, and the stopper is bomber. There was also what looked like a good medium cam placement just above the lower shelf, although I had no cams with me. Not to start a shit storm, but I am inclined to say that this would have made a better sport route. It is basically a face climb, and the placements are definitely not in a crack, per se. I just don't see the point of carrying a rack to do twenty-five feet of moderate mixed climbing. Just my opinion.
Oct 18, 2007
I replaced the anchor on this today. The original chain I bought was really strong, but was not coated and thus rustable. I have been replacing them as I remember where they are. Last week I replaced the chains on Depends and was going to do this one also, but I had an "incident" with Ray that cut our day short. He tore his biceps muscle off, and there was a lot of screaming!
Sep 5, 2006
A fun bouldering traverse along the flake to get to the crack where you can place your first pro (#2 Camalot). The thin seams up higher took some thought to find the best line; I went a little right near the top to get some pro (blue/green hybrid Alien), then stepped back left for the final moves. The anchor is two bolts with smash links and chains. The chain is already very rusty. This would be a good candidate for an anchor upgrade with quick links and stainless chain.
Sep 5, 2006
- Sponge Bath
The crack is really fun when done as a lieback.
Apr 28, 2013
Better and more independent if done from the left-hand crack the whole way - 2.5" handcrack down low. Take a red & yellow Camalot. But be careful- not all of the flakes in that crack are trustworthy for gear. I was careful and I've heard a story involving some rock blow-out.
Aug 23, 2007
We climbed directly up the hand crack in the slanting corner on the left instead of taking the line shown in the beta photo. A #2 and #3 Camalot protected this section well. Thin crux move past the first bolt on the headwall above.
Sep 4, 2006
Also an option to put gear in the handcrack, but climb to its right a bit, then jog back left at the overhang. Nice combination of gear and bolts. Sweet bit of steep face climbing at the top.
May 16, 2006
- Sundowning
The better of the 2 routes, and given 2 stars to designate that. Noithing to call hoime about, but interesting climbing at least. If you force an 'eliminate' line up between the 2 lines here, the climbing is 5.10 on "bad" holds and gives you a 3rd option.
Jun 11, 2009
Somewhat interesting, short climb. There are probably a couple of 9+ moves around the second bolt. However, some of the holds/seams were quite dirty. You might want to bring a brush to clean some of the loose debris on the holds. The flake at the start of Lost Dentures can also use a good brushing.
Oct 9, 2007
- One Shoe Makes It Murder
- Overlook, The
- Brenda from Kansas
Nice work on this line, Ted and Matt! This was a delight and made for a really nice route to climb during a cold afternoon.
Nov 5, 2017
If you start sitting way down and left, there is a cool, gaston boulder problem to link into the original start of BFK. (Bring a pad to protect this part.) Not perfect rock, but really cool athletic movement. Probably adds a letter/or V-grade to the route. One of my favorite "mini" routes in B-Canyon. With a lot of pads and fresh knees, it would be pretty reasonable to just boulder this route out.
Apr 13, 2014
Some additional beta for getting with Brenda from Kansas: You can pre-clip the first bolt leaning over from a rock; use a locker on this and a short draw on the second. Because the wall's so steep, you'll skid backward a little if you fall below the first bolt, so having a crashpad down there to cush out your landing might help; we used packs and jackets. The starting hold is the lowest, four-foot-long horizontal rail down in the pit at about chest height. Start any higher and you're cheating on Brenda...from Kansas. On the upper part (Obscurity Risk) you can back up each angle with an RP near it, as well as a bomber yellow (No. 2) Master Cam in the horizontal from which you clip the second pin. The angles stick out quite a bit, so it's good to back them up and/or tie them off. This upper part is spooky 5.11. BONUS tip from Brenda: Once you're on the ledge, have your belayer huck up the gear and draws for the upper bit, so you don't need to lug them with you on the V-Brenda bouldering crux.
Jul 9, 2011
- Denver Nugget
- Golden Child
This has one of the better backstep-dropknee moves in the canyon.
May 22, 2008
Crux can by a dyno or a static move out left with a cool pinch and heel to the right in a slot. Both seem like they will be reachy for short folks though.
Jun 5, 2006
- Greenfield
- Jersey Devil
I really enjoyed this climb. Lots of great movement down low and a nice, easy topout. Bolts are spaced so that you are definitely making some moves between clips. I personally thought this was easier than Straight Outta Compton. Great views from the top. Bring some medium cams for the crack above the bolts.
May 22, 2016
- Lobo
I cleaned the route hard on lap #1 and then went for lap #2. It improved a lot with cleaning- as well, some good footholds came up from under lichen and dirt on the second crux, stepping right into the lower angle crack. The start is still hard and has a bad landing. As well, it is strenuous to place gear there. I elected to continue climbing higher and place below me after getting the bomber flake and side-pull on it. Since the rock below is pointed and sloping, and far enough to hurt a climber, I suggest approaching this route with caution. Difficulty? Bottom moves: 5.11-, PG13. Rest of the route 5.10-, good gear.
Jun 5, 2006
- Louisville Slugger
Sweet little route, 2nd bolt tough to clip.
Jun 2, 2013
I tore off a chunk of rock just above and left of the second bolt while climbing today. I was just happy it did not hit my belayer. This was from a stance just after the 2nd clip (which would be from the incut below). The remaining rock nearby is solid. Fun enough- but the upper slab still needs some cleaning.
Jun 5, 2006
- Minnesota Fats
If this pitch is 5.10 and ****, then Cosmosis is 5.11 and ********.
Jun 16, 2007
10a if climbed up from straight below at the start. If coming in from the left, easier- perhaps 5.9. This is a good climb with good rock and good moves, teh best at this small cliff, but it is pretty hard to call a 50-foot line a 'classic' when climbs like Country Club Crack and Athlete's Feet are within view from the anchors.
Jun 5, 2006
A short but excellent route. Sustained, fun moves from the ground to the top of the inset corners. I found hybrid Aliens very useful for the flared cracks.
Oct 22, 2005
- Obscurity Risk
A little scary at the start. I climbed up and hung off the first fixed nut to back it up, then lowered and fired from the start with the fixed nut and back-up nut already clipped. No decking potential that way. Cool route overall- steep and funky with a back-up available next to almost every fixed piece.
May 30, 2013
- Philadelphia Flyer
I thought that the moves to the shelf after the first bolt were the crux. I wish I'd had a dust-mask, goggles and alcohol up there- so I could brush the guano off of the crux holds without contracting some odd infection or disease. Save for that it's a good climb. I didn't find the feet out and right at the second roof and was goofing off- and found that a good jam and a double toe-hook up and over the roof was bomber. The climb goes up-side-down there with good heels and toes. Fun way to try it anyway and skips the tenuous moves.
Jun 5, 2006
- Probe, The
On my first lap I ran the crux, sight unseen similarly to the way the pictures show. Second time I found a way to do it without going right of the main feature which was actually a nicer line and more technique, but less gropey. This route might not be so hard, but it would be hard to onsight, so I'd give it 11c. Also, it might get another star someday if it really cleans up, but meanwhile it's a bit dirty.
Aug 13, 2009
Pretty good before the crux which is hopelessly contrived.
Jun 16, 2007
- Straight Out of Compton
First off, this area is sweet! Great views of Castle Rock. Thought it was pretty fun and solid 5.8 in my opinion. Lots of great stemming and a fun crux sequence. I brought a #4 and used it but not totally necessary. Went left to the anchors for Golden Child to rap.
May 22, 2016
Not to be an ass, but the YDS is supposed to rate by the hardest move on a route. This route is 8-/8 on that scale. That said it, it is a one trick pony, although the start is also solid 7. I managed to use high feet and the left pocket to hit the horn with my right at the crux. My second claims you can extend your right hand to a jug near the proper of Denver Nugget to power through the crux. Fun moves though.
Jul 22, 2011
Gear up to #3.5 Camalot. The wall on the left side is still shedding and needs more of a scraping than a brushing. You can go left to the anchors for Golden Child to rap off.
Jun 5, 2006
- Transylvania
- Yosemite Sam
- Poison Ivy Dome
- Poison Ivy
A good solo, because the namesake plant is 2/3 the way up the route and can be climbed around, but your rope would surely get in it.
Jun 5, 2016
- Pop Rock
- Practice Rock
- Dark Magic
I thought it was C2. I placed some beaks and cam hooks but never had more than 2 in a row, which seems to be textbook C2.
Aug 4, 2017
Is Dark Magic the red line in this photo? Dark Magic.
Apr 24, 2016
If I did indeed hop on the right route it is C1. For the first twenty feet I had equalized bomber nuts, hybrids and a ball nut. After that it was all bomber placements. If nothing rips while testing it cant be C3. This is a good route to learn how to do thin nutting. Peace -Eric H
Feb 23, 2009
I aid soloed this a while back and almost seriously hurt myself using RPs at the start. Later, I returned and used Leeper cam hooks with much better results. Doing a couple free moves at the top is much easier than goofing with hooks-IMHO.
May 26, 2006
This route goes free at about 11a, plus or minus, depending on how you attack the 3 cruxes. The pro at the first crux is decent (with an attentive belayer), so-so at the second crux, and good at the third. Just over the ledge at the top is an old button head bolt, evidence that this route was done long ago. Really good route with diverse, technical climbing.
Aug 16, 2005
What's the crack right above the boulder at the base? Is that "tricky nailup"? I heard of a good practice C3 line on Practice rock (go figure) so I went looking and soloed that one, lots of cam hooks up high (or RPs I was too pansy to commit to). Turns out I wasn't on this route. I kinda followed the route labeled 1 (traverse left then right) then about halfway up I stopped traversing and went straight up those 2 thin cracks right below the huge block on top. Anyone know what I climbed, cause it sure was fun?
Nov 24, 2004
I want to thank whoever removed the #1 copperhead from the start of this route. At the time it seemed like the most novel idea but in retrospect, its existence is not warranted by any need. Instead, I would now advocate maybe using a micro cam-hook, or some offset brass. Another part of the climb even goes free with decent gear. Use your own judgement and climb as clean as possible, I know that I will after this.
Nov 7, 2002
Old timer again, I must be getting senile. The seam of tricky nailup is the one that goes all the way to the ground (2 over from the route marked 1) so this may not be the same climb that DZ is talking about. A random bit of history however.
May 17, 2002
Thought that you might want to hear from an "old timer." This thin seam was listed way back in a 1972 (?) guide book by Pat Ament for the Boulder area that had the title "5.10" (a little red book). It was rated A3 (old school) and was considered a practice nailup. The name was "tricky nailup" as I recall. I also solo aided it about 2-3 years ago and I don't think that you could zipper to the ground (but then I used a BD Pecker in the seam - which was actually hard to get out). HB offsets and tiny TCUs worked great at the pods in the seam (which by the way are old pin scars).
May 16, 2002
I just recently solo-lead this climb again and the pink tricam comment is total bull. You might need two #5's but one will definitely be half-way out(bring along the Smirnoff). A blue TCU can help at the crux along with possibly a #3 stopper equalized with something else. I flailed around for a hook placement. Anyway, only double on the #4s needed, and the crux is just totally fun. Just be sure to duct-tape the sling around the horn real well. Otherwise, you're in for a long fall...
May 7, 2002
I sincerely apologize for posting this as a first ascent. At the time, there were three reasons suggesting that this real was an unclimbed route. 1: I asked employees at Neptune's and Mountain Sports as well as Roger Briggs about this route. All told me that they didn't know of this aid line. 2: I looked on the internet and in the Neptune's New Routes Book, there was absolutely no mention of it there either. 3: When I climbed it, the cracks were absolutely chalk-less and filled with dirt/grit, forcing me to clean thoroughly before piece placement, which left me to believe that the route was previously unclimbed. Once again, I am very sorry for saying this is a first ascent. The name and rating of the route are by no means official and probably wrong. However, since my climb was not an FA, that just goes to show how cool of a route this is. Also, if you have indeed climbed this route before, send me an e-mail, iradj@mho.net.
May 1, 2002
Sorry bro, I don't mean to burst your first ascent bubble or anything- but I did that route in the fall of 1998. Also, I'm almost postive it had been done prior to that, a unique little practice route though.
Apr 21, 2002
- Left Crack
Warning! The roof is made up of three or four detached blocks which look ready to let loose. Even avoiding them by pulling on the left side requires pulling on a large block which is resting on a sloping ledge. If these blocks came off, they could potentially reach the road. This route should probably be avoided. You can go right at the roof to climb "thin crack" instead although that requires some tricky gear to protect the crux.
Jun 8, 2016
Fun climb. I thought the lower part was the hardest. Probably easier if you use the left bulge, but that is "off limits". The roof was pretty easy and the crack above easier than the start. Still felt like 5.9 to me or maybe 5.9+. Probably easier for climbers with longer arms.
Oct 5, 2014
Though I don't believe in "+" ratings for 7s, Chan has it right; this route, really, is a breeze--especially for those with monkey arms (though my shorter partner crushed it anyway on lead). I call this down an "8," though, against the grain, I also upgraded the 10a on the right to 10b.
Apr 1, 2010
Good gear makes this route a breeze. Down low, a couple of good wires and maybe a TCU in a pin scar. A number 3 camalot above and right of the overhang is bomber and a big stopper behind the expanding flake will sew it up well. Be careful not to set the stopper to deep behind the flake, you might not get it back. Feels no harder than some of the older routes in the 7+ range in BoCan (Owl, Cozyhang, Empor).
Mar 29, 2005
Good route. Felt pretty easy for a 5.9 rating though. Roof protects well. Definitely a lot easier than the "5.9+ thin crack" route that exits the right part of the roof.
Jun 27, 2004
This was my first trad climb. Pretty cool! There is an ancient cam stuck in the crack below the roof. Tried to yank it out, but it wouldn't budge. Oh well.
May 18, 2002
- Lieback
Definitely harder than Thin Crack or Left Crack. About as hard as Regular Route, IMO. I found the 1st 6-10 feet off the deck to be harder than the lieback, but that's just my opinion. Really fun route, at any rate. 10b?
Feb 8, 2015
Forget the "wide" gear. Start with a yellow Alien, pump up to a #3 Camalot in a fat slot, then stuff a #4 up there JUST BEFORE the flake gets superwide, then walk out that lieback around the corner, baby. It's pumptastic, but the friction-friendly feet are better than they look from the ground. And it's a hell'ave-a trip wondering out that far up and left above good gear. Great for head strength. Bring some finger cams for the 5.8 scrambling at the top out. As for me, I held and had to lower. Needed to psyche up hard before I could re-climb and send. And? This is pretty F'in pumpy for 10a. I'm usually one to grade DOWN (see "Left Crack), but this one I call it a solid 10b, even though the magic is short lived. Q: Anyone know why--in Boulder Canyon, of all places--there aren't anchors above these lines? The tree pendulum anchor is kinda nasty....
Apr 1, 2010
A great climb. Good climbers make it look easy, while the rest of us make it look like a grunt. 10a.
Sep 17, 2006
This is a fun, pumpy route. Definitely not 5.9-. I agree with Brad on the 5.10 rating.
Aug 15, 2006
This is a great introductory route to Boulder Canyon, as a top rope can be set up, and trad may also be used. Be careful not to get your rope stuck under the slab or it may tear/fray ... poor rope.
Jun 20, 2004
We've been rating this 5.10 for a long, long time, and after untold laps on all of the routes on Practice Rock think "Lieback" is definitely is harder than the route you call "Thin Crack" which is listed as 9+. Also, what is listed here as "Left Crack" is more like 5.8 than 5.9. I've been known to sandbag a bit, but I think more accurate ratings for Practive Rock routes left to right are 5.8, 5.9. 5.11, 5.10.
Sep 3, 2002
- Regular Route
Did this on toprope today. I think it would be a 10a or b if the holds weren't so slick, but they are really polished and covered in chalk. My hand and finger jams weren't very positive, and the footholds are minimal at the mid-part. I'd call it 5.10d or 5.11 in the current condition, but I'm not really a 5.11 climber (easy 5.10 is about my upper limit), so I'm not sure my grading is accurate....
Oct 5, 2014
This is a really nice routeone of the best finger cracks in the canyonand great for training laps. It's 11a, straight up.
Jan 12, 2014
Great route, parked to go do Cosmosis and noticed this line from the road. Not 11b I don't think but fun nonetheless. I thought the gear was solid - a few bomber stoppers, a #1 C3 in the crux seam, and a great #2 C4 as the crack jogs back right. I found a green c4 and an orange quickdraw as I was topping out, please message me to claim them (include the initials that are marked on the cam's webbing)!
Oct 28, 2013
I got my first taste of clean aid on this route this weekend. Really fun moves with consistently good gear. To all the trad leaders, my hat goes off to you.
May 13, 2013
This is the softest route I've ever been on. 5.10c at best. Come on, guys, this is supposed to be Boulder, land of climbers....
Apr 13, 2013
This is a really approachable lead. The gear is good all the way through the route albeit a bit thin. Have some C3s or equivalent ready right before the crux where the crack gets thin. Excellent route even though it is a bit short.
Nov 21, 2012
Lots of fun! I didn't notice much in the way of grease, but it is certainly a polished line. Gear was plentiful and solid, not to mention good stances for getting it in. It seems like a good line for those breaking into 11s on gear, although I'd imagine sausagy fingers would make things a bit tougher. Also, bats aplenty in the bomber jam down low.
Aug 3, 2012
It's a good one, for some reason we found this easier than the 10b flake next-door. It took fiddling with gear at the crux would love to get back and lead it clean. Here's what I remember placing (it was like 3 hours ago, but short term memory... you know how it goes): -#2 BD to keep you off the deck at the first wide part. - Something thin past that, maybe a blue Metolius or similar (if needed, it's not hard to the jug), then to the "jug" before it zags left, -you can place a 0.75 if you reach far up, this one held a whipper for my friend. - up past that a 0 TCU in a pinscar at the crux seemed quite solid but wouldn't hold much more than a 3-4 footer reliably, - you can then place a good small nut. I put in a #8 Metolius Astronut, but a #1 nut would fit in there nicely, then run it out to the rusty pin. - clip the pin, get to a nice rest and throw in a solid red Metolius (0.5?) cam in a big pinscar on your left and make the exit moves out right. Anyone ever taken the line completely left instead of zagging back right? That's an embarassing amount of spray for me, at least it'll help me remember what to place for next time.
Apr 28, 2011
This is a great first aid climb. Make sure if you set up the anchor prior you extend the sling over the lip, otherwise it is difficult to reach.
Jan 22, 2011
A fantastic TR and a MONSTER lead for all you heroes out there. As for "grease," I thought the occasional right foot IN the crack itself was fuck slippery, but friction feet against the wall stuck as well as you could expect them to. Hellishly strenuous, that way, though. Great for the pump; suggestion: try multiple b-2-b laps if'n you're going to top rope....
Apr 1, 2010
I have been waiting for a line like this for a while. Beautiful even if pin scarred. This is the only climb that I've been able to pull "THE SPACKER" on. A Must. No grease when I went there, but I was there around 7 pm or later using a headlamp.
Aug 31, 2009
There are bats in all of the cracks on this rock. I practically shook one's hand yesterday.
Aug 19, 2009
Be really careful placing the gear I was belaying my friend on it and he fell at the crux where the crack zigs back right and ripped two pieces and almost decked. The gear is good if you place it just right but it is tricky. Enjoy this great crack and be safe.
Jun 24, 2009
I am from Ukraine, climbed it with Paul in the evening, and also did not notice any grease....
Aug 1, 2008
Climbed this in the evening of a mid 90's day. Not much grease. I'm from the East though so perhaps I just don't notice....however I didn't slick out of everything. Great movement and great crack practice. You can set up a TR here and run laps easily.
Jul 31, 2008
5.11- at hardest for folks with thin fingers. I used pinky/ring instead of first/middle and all the sudden I was hiking up it, little effort required. Good during cool temps, and I didn't find it to be too slick this time.
May 15, 2008
Excellent route. I can't remember how many times I've climbed on it, but it always menaces us when we go to practice rock. Hard work and great practice. Hence the name? Great practice for aid climbing in the snow, rain, etc. too. Easily toproped off of a huge tree on top.
Apr 24, 2007
As to comment #one: NO SHIT. O decked on this thing a couple days ago. Pretty messed up. Karl.
Sep 4, 2005
A greasy and polished, short pin-scarred crack. Classic if you're into that sort of thing. Strenuous and to be avoided in summer.
Jun 30, 2004
I was just up here last week, and quite personally, I think this is the worst route at practice rock. Though inarguably the hardest, it is so greased up that it is hardly worth the trouble. However, it does provide good trad practice for gear between 1 and 2.5 inches.
Jun 20, 2004
Don't be scared off of leading this sweet route by the lack of easy gear. If you take your time and fiddle stuff in, it can be pretty solid. There is a bomber rp just before the crux where the crack goes back right. Classic civilized (i.e. pin scarred) climbing!
May 23, 2002
This is an AWESOME route!!! Me and one of my friends did it on toprope since one had a cast. He was the only one who flashed it, too! He broke his pinky and ring finger and was jamming them into the crack! His cast was in shambles by the time he was done. Very cool rout
May 18, 2002
Even though I did this route on TR it still stands out in my mind as one of my favorite. Powerful climbing down low into a good rest, then more technical as the feet taper out. Since it is so close to the road I don't see why anyone would pass it up. BAD ASS!
Mar 15, 2002
Did this one this morning (4/26/01) at 7am with Ben after we both pulled all-nighters. Best way to start a day/end a night in a long time. Crux is sticking that hand jam 30 feet up just before it cuts back right.
Jan 1, 2001
Great thin crack. Went for a 30 whipper on this one way back in the day. Small cams will pull out of the piton scars if you e not careful.
Jan 1, 2001
- Thin Crack
This climb is a blast when you go for the onsight. Skip the toprope rehearsals and commit to it and you will love it, it will keep your attention for a 5.9. once you do it the move feels maybe 5.8 but really good.
Nov 18, 2008
As a variation, if one avoids the finger lock above and to the left of the mini-overhand and instead directly tackles the mini-overhand from below (reaching up and to the climber's right for a good flake), this route can be significantly harder (perhaps middle 10s). Anyway, I recommend the variation as it climbs quite differently (I felt like I was on a different route).
Jun 24, 2008
- Red Lyin' Slab
- Retirement Rock
- COLA (Cost of Living Allowance).
- Early Bird Special
The best route at the crag. Honestly, that's a measured compliment, but all of the routes will improve with cleaning. That said, this is presently both the cleanest and the best of them.
Jul 27, 2010
This is a surprisingly good route, and I am almost tempted to give it three stars, except that it is a bit short. The climbing, on positive edges and sidepulls, is interesting all the way to the anchors. I didn't find the lunge mentioned above. On the contrary, I found good holds within reach the entire way. Good job, Bob and Greg. Hey, Greg. Screw the wheelchair access. I enjoyed bushwacking away from the crowds for a change. I liked it so much that I'm going back, tomorrow, to do the 5.12.
Oct 16, 2007
After the second bolt, there is a stretch of blank face. This is the crux. The move, as I did it, is a lunge/deadpoint to a good left hand. The hands and feet for the move are good but it is committing. This move is probably somewhat height-dependent.
Apr 16, 2006
- Fixed Income
A steep and challenging climb. The direct line past the fourth and fifth bolts looked harder than 11a with very few positive holds. My partners and I traversed a bit left here to some better holds and moved back right up higher.
Sep 5, 2006
This will be a decent climb when the lichen is cleared. I had to do a couple of big highstep moves to get to good feet because smearing on the lichen wasn't feasible.
Apr 16, 2006
- Let the Daylight In
I went up to do this route, today, and broke the crux handhold off. It was a good edge, and it is now a bad sloper. The route felt like 12- with it, but it is solid 5.12 without it. I was up there with Matt Samet, and he redpointed it without the hold. He said it is probably 12b/c now. The third clip is harder. Be careful standing on the detached blocks at the first bolt. A basketball-size chunk broke off, when I stepped on it, and almost took out my belayer. Make sure that the belayer and rope pile are back far enough away from the wall in case the rest of this huge block goes. It is probably a hundred pounds, and could easily kill someone. It is not a matter of if but when. Otherwise, this is an okay route.
Oct 20, 2007
- NW Arete
- Second Career
This route presently is pretty dirty. It might merit a star if it got a good brushing.
Jul 27, 2010
Ken, Ray & I added a bolt a few months ago to replace the blind smallest Alien placement. I have fixed the route description.
Oct 16, 2007
You can find some fun climbing on these obscuro crags. We really enjoyed this route. I personally didn't see the need to place any gear. The bolts seemed to protect everything pretty well.
Oct 16, 2007
A fun slab route. I placed a black (smallest) Alien about halfway up. The route could use more cleaning; bring a wire brush if you're headed up here.
Sep 5, 2006
- Senior Discount
This is the rightmost route on the slab, climbing just left of the arete. A fun route with some tricky moves at the second and third bolts. There's a runout between the third and fourth bolts but the climbing is easy. I counted four bolts on the route, not five.
Sep 5, 2006
- Road Rock
- Hand, The
We broke a pretty big hold at the crux today; might be 10b again.
Aug 29, 2015
FA: Greg Hand & Bob D'Antonio.
Apr 30, 2014
When you hit the anchors, you will want to grab the big flake. DON'T, a large portion of it moves.
Apr 30, 2014
- Magic Bus
- Motorcycle Diaries
Instead of going hard to the right at the end, you can keep going directly up to the first large ledge @ 5.8 PG-13 (43 meters). There is a belay tree up there and to the right once on the ledge. No fixed belay on it though, but you can scramble down and climber's right to a rap.
Aug 29, 2015
FA Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand.
Apr 30, 2014
This is a super fun and varied route, better than it looks, and it protects nicely. Be careful, lots of loose rocks around the belay on top of the first pitch.
Apr 30, 2014
- Road Kill
The book screws up pretty much every route on this rock. 11+ or 12' sounds about right. Book says 10b. This sucks as a warm-up though.
Aug 29, 2015
FA Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand. This is the left of the two routes on the rock and I thought we rated it 5.12. This should be named Road Kill.
Apr 30, 2014
- Road Rash (or Tweaked?)
The book misdirects all 3 of the climbs on the right side of the rock here...but yeah, the right-most bolted line is a moderate 5.10.
Aug 29, 2015
FA Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand. This is the right hand route on the rock, and I thought we rated it 5.10. This should be named Road Rash.
Apr 30, 2014
- Road Trip
This is a fun route. It still contains lots of moss, but most of the moves are clean. I think the bolts start in a logical place. The crack pinches down as it gets higher.
Apr 29, 2014
I thought this was a really fun route. The moss didn't really detract from the quality of the route. However, the climbing will improve as this thing cleans up. I had been looking at this line for over 2 years and I never got around to climbing it. Bob beat me to it. Good job cleaning the route. My only complaint is that the intended line leaves the crack before it ends. It seems that the route could have followed the crack for another 10 feet or so and then pulled onto the slab. Nonetheless, the route was great.
Jun 28, 2006
- Tailspin
- Roadside Boulder
- Road Warrior
Front Range guidebook calls this V8 and Bob Horan's Best of Bouldering Book calls this a V5. Due to me climbing this in the rain and getting to the lip on 2nd go, I am with Bob on this one.
Feb 22, 2017
- Rock Island I
- Destroyer
Was on this today. Pulled off a couple pieced of dangerous choss that must have loosened up over the winter because I don't remember them last summer. I don't think they effect the grade unless you climb it substantially differently than I do. Adds a foot after the crux, but there's another good foot there anyway. Still feel like 10c is a good grade. It's essentially a V3 boulder problem that's 15 feet off the ground and surrounded by 5.7ish stuff. Maybe unaesthetic overall but I really dig the crux move - sequencey and powerful.
May 6, 2009
Kinda unaesthetic.
Jun 25, 2008
Yeah. The thing is, it's a really short problem. After the pullup to the flake, the rest of the climb is 5.7. The two or three crux moves are solid 5.11 (IMHO), but given how short it is, I think 10c isn't a bad rating.
Jun 24, 2008
Maybe something broke - this felt a good deal harder than 10c. Awkward and probably harder for those with bigger fingers.
Apr 26, 2008
You're right, Big Wave, actually the rating I posted is what it was before I watched (in horror) some Frenchie with a hammer pull loose a piece of the old handhold because he thought it would fall loose under his weight. It is probably in the stiff 5.10-5.10a class now. When he pulled the rock loose, it created a nice foothold that made a nice rest that was previously not there.
Sep 26, 2002
I feel this route goes at a stiff 5.9+. A strong head and good tech sense should bring ya thru the crux w/ a bit of ease. It really reminds me of the brillant routes in N.M.; Questa dome comes to mind.
Sep 25, 2002
- Independent
Hey Rick, I saw you guys on this the other day when I was coming down from the Second Buttress. The two bolts mentioned are there, they are about 5ft down and to the right of the poorly placed bolt you speak of, but it's a little hairy accessing them; I think the bolt up higher is meant for safely accessing the two-bolt anchor. In any case, they don't provide a good position for the route either. On another note, anybody know of the name and grade of the straight up route with a chalk tick on it? Seemed 5.12 to me....
Oct 26, 2013
Fun route that makes you look for holds a little. Top roped it, so I wasn't looking for gear placement. I'd say the first half would be easy to protect and the second half not as easy especially the last moves. Easy to start with a few mantle moves, but it's mostly cracks. The last few moves are a bit chossy and vertical, and I'd say this is the crux. Luckily, the BC path was still closed due to the flood. You belay from almost middle of the path where there is typically a lot of traffic, so expect gawkers. There is one very short steep section section on the hike up to the anchors to set a top rope, but you don't necessarily need to rappel back down it. I only found one bolt but apparently, as stated below, there are 2 somewhere down there but not in position for this route. I didn't see them on the way up either. I used a 30ft sling to back up the single bolt and get the master point over the edge.
Oct 25, 2013
I did a couple laps of this with a friend on a freakishly warm day in the middle of December. We setup a top-rope using the bolts. After the dihedral, there is a traverse right on the "bridge" which feels a little exposed even on a top-rope. After that, we finished the route up the nose to the bolts. Just before the end, you can traverse a little left to some nice granite for a finish that requires some reachy moves to slopers - it's little variations like this which have me giving the route a 5.8-. On the second lap, I tried to climb straight up from the top of the dihedral - this redder rock is pretty crumbly and dirty and I slipped off a few moves in - I don't recommend this variation. Also, beware of swinging around on the top-rope. In hind-sight, I might have used a directional.
Dec 9, 2007
- Unknown
Interesting, but a little contrived and grungy with a lot of groveling. The holds on this route are also a big contrast from the routes elsewhere on the rock. As for finding the route, start at the awkward bulge about 10' left of a huge iron eye-bolt at ground level. Moving straight up from the eye-bolt gets you to a much lower pair of cold shuts on what looks like an easier line.
Jul 6, 2009
To lead this you end up taking a rather unpleasant line in order to place protection. A more direct and much more enjoyable route can be taken with the safety of a top rope.
Apr 28, 2008
- Unknown II aka The Broken Wing
This climb has nice variations that traverse right. I heard this climb called "The Broken Wing". It is a great route to practice some essentials for Boulder Canyon. Definitely not an x rating from me, just dicey at the start.
Jun 18, 2011
- Rock Island II
- Candelaria's Crack
I think this is way more appropriate as a boulder problem than the gill crack. The gill crack is more fun on a rope if you finish on black crack. This is a really cool roof crack however you decide to play on it but I think a bouldering pad is all you need.
Jul 14, 2009
Very fun. My vote would be solid 5.12 compared to Gill Crack and Thunderdome as far as area grades are concerned. If Gill Crack is an eleven, I need to go to corner. This area get blazing afternoon sun. Curious how people do it. I stayed in the right hand crack - straight in the whole time.
Jun 21, 2008
I found the crux to be right above the lip of the overhang, where the crack opens up. I mostly used face holds at this point, making full use of the arete on the right. TR rope solo was my choice for pro, but it seems like placing pro would be strenuous to say the least.
Jul 30, 2007
For anyone thinking of bouldering this route, it is a clean fall from and above the roof. You should miss the slab below the roof, as well as the big rock by the parking area. I bouldered this route yesterday with a couple of friends and hit the pad cleanly everytime, even slipping off on the top out when I was above the entire crack when my feet greased. Also, as for the route being soft, I'm not sure that I agree. I felt that this route was harder than the Gill Crack, which I'm willing to argue is 5.11+, making this route at least 5.12a. Both cracks made for awsome boulder problems though. Leading them seemed kind of lame for how short they both are, but the moves are great!
Apr 17, 2006
The route is pretty good for its length. To give it 2 stars means that that 20' of climbing is truly good climbing, and would be 3-star if it were long enough to be a route. It would be a great boulder problem, right? 3 stars then? So, I'll give it 2 as a route. As for difficulty, there are plenty of V9s that are no taller and that's what, 5.13? So anyway, I don't think that the height changes the difficulty. That said, I don't know if the route is 5.12a or not, but I doubt harder. My first go with one busted-up ankle (foot in a splint) I got over the roof and jammed into the hand-crack. Fully dangling off of said jam, I was able to campus above. At the time, not knowing what the route was suggested to be, I had guessed possibly 11c or 11d. 12a is fine, too. The real difficulty is in ignoring the pain of the finger-wrecking locks. 2 days later, my arthritic knuckles are still aching.
Aug 4, 2005
If you want to set up a top rope you can place several good pieces (hand-fist sized cams) in the crack a few feet above the lip for an anchor to avoid going up the loose slope above.
May 22, 2005
This route is currently closed due to a nesting porta-let at it's base. Sorry for any inconvenience. Boulder County Road Maintenance Dept.
Aug 13, 2004
While this is a sweet line, it isn't even as high as Germ Free in Eldo or a number of problems on Flagstaff. I'll agree that it's a bit highball but it seems a stretch to give it the mighty title of being a 5.12 trad route. No offense to anyone.
Jan 23, 2004
Adam asks: "it is vertical for eight feet or so and then goes over a big overhang split by a finger crack. If so, where is the Candeleria's Crack?" That's it! If you've got a pickup truck, you can probably put your bouldering pad in the truck and do it as a boulder problem. I always thought that would be a good place to set up a trampoline.
Jan 22, 2004
Is this the right pull out with the west facing boulder problem crack called road warrior in the original horan bouldering guide? it is vertical for eight feet or so and then goes over a big overhang split by a finger crack. if so where is the candelera crack?
Jan 22, 2004
In response to the location, use the directions from the rock page: climbingboulder.com/rock/db…
Jan 22, 2004
Could someone please give me some good directions to this crack? Thanks.
Jan 22, 2004
Haha. Good comeback, AC. I like. Have you seriously done this thing, though? I really did think it was a lot harder than antagonism (assuming that's what you're paraphrasing), which must be the trickiest 12- sport climb in Boulder Canyon.
Jul 5, 2003
C'mon, man. It's not THAT bad. I climbed it the same day as you. It was hard to stick on the upper fingerlock and the feet because of the low friction. Big deal.
Jun 30, 2003
This thing is brutally hard. It looked so easy from the ground, but the fingers were either rattly or too tight. When I whipped off (numerous times) it felt like my fingers were gonna stay in the crack. Whatever else people may say about the ratings in Boulder Canyon, it seems like the 5.12 cracks are really solid for the grade.
Jun 30, 2003
In my experience, the crack only accepts small (up to .75 cams) and stoppers are pretty hard to work in there. Also, if you want an interesting bouldering (or TR) problem, climb the broken crap just right of the crack (it's no harder than 5.8, if that). If you want to set up a TR, there is really only one solid way, and that is to hike up the loose slope to the top of Rock Island and sling a big horn. Then hike down or "rappel" to a ledge just above and right of the crack to belay. You can also put in some nuts or TCUs at this ledge, but I think the placements aren't exactly top-rope worthy.
Jan 8, 2002
I love this area....it is great when the kids fall asleep in the car and I can pull over almost right under Candelaria's Crack and do some easy but fun bouldering for 30 minutes. There is a great hand crack/lie back corner down the wall about halfway, there's an old piton protecting the upper moves (in case you want to lead it....great beginner lead but short, 25 feet topout). It is maybe 5.6 but great to just work on jams eliminating feet (only in crack) and toping out and down climbing it.....I like climbing it in the rain for fun. There is another traversing lieback crack that joins another sweet handcrack....an easy arete, easy slabs, some huge roofs (if your strong and like those scary high balls), a couple easier finger cracks just to the right of Candelarias. Most of the bouldering here is pretty easy with some hard and scary (the roofs, Candelaria's Crack) ones also.....very close to town and fun for killing 30 minutes while the kids are napping.
Jan 1, 2001
- Old Practice Aid Climb
This can be and should be climbed clean. A standard cam hook does the trick at the lip.
Apr 4, 2008
- Two Move Groove
- Security Risk Massif
- Higher Security Risk
- Cold Shot
I really like this climb. Techy. Short and sweet. I didn't need to do too many tips locks. More crimps and sidepulls and footwork.
Oct 22, 2017
5.11a might be a slightly sandbagged grade for this route. Traverse right just after the second bolt to get to the right-hand crack. There are some nice moves on this route, with a lot of crimpers and at least one finger-sized slot.
Aug 17, 2011
This is worth a visit. It might get two stars in a different area, but this is Security. What can you do with Plan B just a 100 ft away?
Dec 19, 2002
This thin crack is in fact a terrific little line requiring a good capacity to lock into tips-only placements. This is a fine line and well worth two stars. I did this several years ago with a friend who lost their footing with the locks established. The crack is just thin and deep enough to keep your fingers if you lose the feet. It took her close to a year to get the function back in two joints. Good rock, nice moves if you are ready.
Dec 19, 2002
- Evolution
Hmmm, I don't know that I would go as far as calling this thing clean. I would say there is still quite a bit of questionable rock including friable flakes and overall hollow sounding bigger features. Okay climbing, but the rock quality is subpar.
Nov 12, 2014
2012 - clean as a whistle. Ready for prime time and totally worth it. Two distinct cruxes that are worth the effort of figuring out. I give it 2.5 stars. More if it was longer.
Nov 5, 2012
Higher Security Risk still needs a little cleaning, but I thought this route was pretty nice and I wouldn't give it a bomb. There were several interesting moves, particularly getting into and out of the "pod". Most of the looser rock is near the anchors. This face gets a lot of good late-season sun in the afternoon.
Oct 3, 2009
Ok climbing, but weird bolt locations and exfoliating chips blowing out from under left foot at crux. Felt harder than a lot of the 11d to 12a routes that I have done in the canyon. Not sure why, just kind of a weird route.
Dec 15, 2008
I agree with the two comments above, this route still needs some serious cleaning.
Dec 11, 2006
I second the heads up on the loose rock. A couple of foot holds disintegrated as I was traversing into the bigger stuff to the left. Several flakes flex, and there seems to be a largish area of hollow and scaly rock to the left of the crack that ends in the bigger stuff. If it received a serious exfoliation, it might be worth it.
Sep 10, 2006
As a heads up, there's still plenty of loose rock on this thing.
Apr 26, 2006
- Gimme 3 Steps
In December I replaced the bolts (including the anchors) on this route after Steve and I put up Evolution. Should feel better now without those 5/16" shorties. This route is pretty stiff and contains a lot of variety. Enjoy.
Jun 11, 2006
- Turmoil
I thought this was an interesting climb. There is still some lichen, but otherwise the route seems pretty clean. There are a lot of scars where rock has flaked off, but hopefully the remaining holds are stable. There is a scar right between the last two bolts, making me wonder if there was a crimper there at one time. The crux here seemed pretty thin. I went up to the right to reach a knob, but there was nothing for my feet except licheny smears while I made the last clip. It's definitely easier than 5.12 though.
Oct 3, 2009
- Lower Security Risk
- Agony and Ecstasy, The
This is a great little route! Fun boulder problem with varied holds and movement into a stellar arete / flared crack feature. Honestly, I was surprised - I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Not sure on the grade, I'm horrible at rating boulder problems and this is by all means just a 8 move boulder. My guess would be that it's more 13d as Peter originally proposed. Who knows. More people should climb this!
Apr 16, 2014
Hi Peter, I'm curous about what your suggested grade was before you upgraded it? I heard some folks are getting psyched on it. Maybe it will see some repeats. Peace
May 25, 2011
Where is this climb? - what crag? - thanks.
Mar 1, 2004
Nice tick, Peter!
May 25, 2002
- Central Insecurity
Glad to see that Matt climbed this route. It is a great route that rarely gets done. I have not returned to repeat this technical vertical face now for 19 years. I established this route with Bob D'Antonio on February 3, 1995 & then repeated it a few days (redpointing it twice). Ian Spencer Greene redpointed it on the day I repeated it, being the second person to redpoint the route. Since then, I have seen almost no one on this climb.
Mar 5, 2014
- Ecstasy of the People
This is a very odd comment by Taylor Roy. I established the route on March 9, 1995. I redpointed it twice that month. I also cleaned a lot of lichen. It is hard to believe you could spend a hour more, but I guess it is possible. I also don't remember leaving a loose block below the anchor. I am curious now if the block is really loose or just a hollow flake. Perhaps it is too big to want to trundle. As for placing gear, it didn't seem necessary if you can climb this route. I originally tried to establish this route via its direct start, Agony Of The People, but was unsuccessful. So I finally bolted the indirect start that the line takes. The route is quite sustained, but I thought the crux was around 4th & 5th bolts using the edge of the vertical seam on the right side of the arête to lieback on while palming with my left hand & pasting my left foot flat on the left side. Pillar climbing technique used on buildings. A memorable route that I have not revisited in 20 years.
Apr 12, 2015
Spent an hour scrubbing lichen and removing loose rock today. This thing is ready to go!
Nov 9, 2012
- Eldo of the People
- Enema of the People
Unfortunately doesn't climb as nice as it looks. Easy start, hard to avoid the dihedral on the right, which makes you feel kind of dirty. Good crux, but the sharp pinky lock with marginal feet is a little tense. As with a lot of GH routes, the bolt placement above the crux is ridiculously reachy. Actually it isn't even reachy - you have to leave a really good stance for some tweaky moves and a screwed up clip. This really detracted from the route in my opinion. The climbing above is unclear. I moved left to the arete, which seemed the most natural thing to do but couldn't figure out how to clip the last bolt and had to skip it. Not sure if you are supposed to go into the licheny flared crack on the right(?). I almost gave this route a bomb, but the crux was pretty cool.
Nov 10, 2011
- Enemy of the People
- Maximum Security
- Men Are From Mars
This short route is worth getting on--the crux is tricky. If you are doing Security Risk, you can do this sport climb before heading up the second pitch of Security Risk.
Sep 8, 2008
I agree with Ivan - this was a really tough 5.11a, esp. for Boulder Canyon. Couldn't find much for feet past the third bolt.
Oct 7, 2007
My brother and I flailed on this a couple of years ago. Yesterday I TR'd this on self belay after doing Security Risk. Got it, but it was very desperate this time. Total lunge at the crux for a big sidepull and then pumpy with not much feet to the anchors. Much harder than the other 11a's at Security Risk. There are lots of scars in the crux area from broken flakes and crystals, but those scars were there 2 years ago, so I'm not saying it's gotten harder recently. You could, but few would, continue trad from the anchor to the top at 5.8 or so.
Dec 12, 2005
- Prism
Don't let the few feet of grunge at the bottom put you off. This is a fun and well protected route.
Apr 15, 2012
The bottom of the route looks grungy, but I'd say the rock is solid and takes pretty good gear. I used Aliens at the bottom and bomber large cams at the top and got in a couple of nuts. I think 5.9 is a good rating, and I thought the pro was good. This route and Security Risk combine for a nice morning of trad, though one shouldn't leave without getting on at least one of the stellar sport routes.
Aug 17, 2011
I don't think this is a sandbag for 5.9. Every hard move has a great rest following it. Big hexes work great to supplement cams on this one.
Jul 14, 2011
Pretty fun if you can get through the loose stuff at the bottom. Big stems avoid most of the rotten rock.... Then a nice crack and better rock all the way to the anchor. Easy for old school 8+ but hard for a bolted 10. I guess the consensus is 5.9....
Jul 13, 2011
Definitely a sandbag at 5.9 and very scary, hanging blocks to start.
Jan 13, 2010
- Scraping By
I stayed in the dihedral and found it quite interesting. There's another small roof that isn't trivial. It's easy to top it out then downclimb to the bolts on The Prism if you'd rather lower off.
Jun 10, 2015
Cutting right to the bolted arête after the low crux makes this quite a fun and worthy route.
Apr 15, 2012
The interesting moves on this one don't last long, but they are fun. I found a #2 Camalot best to protect the crux move to the left after standing up on the block. A #1 seemed a bit small.
Jul 14, 2011
- Security Risk
^^^ @Mitch You do realize that George was likely doing routes that would fill your pants when you were likely still literally filling your pants as a little tike, right? Sheesh, kids these days....
Jun 19, 2017
Came here to say that I've never seen such a lily livered route description for a good route. I totally recommend the harder line, as it's pumpy, fun, and safe. Gear to 0.3 would be helpful, and I agree with 10c.
Jun 17, 2017
It seems unlikely that the route was named Security Risk for the locker jams after the first pitch. The overhang is worth doing and only 10c in the Rossiter topo. The variations are cool too.
Oct 6, 2014
I submit that *many* multi-pitch routes are not done today following the exact line of the first ascent. Thus, the argument that "the original line is the way to go, because the FA team went that way", holds no water for me. I still recommend avoiding the original start, even if I may be in the minority.
Jun 21, 2011
Why would you climb the original start, call it 10d in your comment, then rate it 9+?
Sep 22, 2010
Great climb. One of the best of the trad climbs in the Boulder Canyon area (Left Side - WWW, Where Eagles Dare - Blob Rock, Cosmosis - Bell Buttress, and Security Risk). The 10d start is protectable for any competent trad climber and should not be avoided unless 5.9 is your limit. I had gear above my head the entire way. There's even a fixed nut directly below the crux. Great stemming options throughout (no hands rest below the crux, though strenuous on the legs).
Nov 11, 2009
The 10d way is the route as it was, and is the better way anyway. A good line worth doing.
Nov 24, 2008
Terrific route, which is the namesake of the two Security Risk formations. It seems odd to grade the route according to the easier and less interesting variations and to describe the variations as the route. The route starts on the 10+ corner. It is not 5.9. IMO the route should be listed and graded as originally climbed, with the easier variations being noted as options. Good gear is available, but strenuous to place on the original first pitch The route gets another star if you run both pitches together, which is quite straightforward to do without rope drag.
Nov 24, 2008
One of the best cracks in BoCan IMHO. Get pro in on the 10d start early as it is hard to place through the crux section and you are right above the deck. Awesome varied crack on the second pitch. No gimme for a 5.9 leader. You might want a double set if cams on this one to sew it up or bring a few hexes. A #4 can be placed, but not required. It varies a lot though so a single set of nuts, cams will suffice if confident on 5.9 crack.
Nov 9, 2008
Why would you skip the true first pitch at 10d? Yeah the gear is a little strange, but you get two bomber nuts to begin with and two small cams before the crux move. The first pitch is tough and well worth climbing. However, it is tough to do as one long pitch this way due to drag.
Oct 21, 2007
There is a nice variety of techniques to apply on this route - jamming, stemming, and thin balancey moves. The 5.10a variation on P1 is great, though I thought the pro was lacking near the upper section. Managed to place a purple TCU in the little hand-sized flake at the crux, but I wouldn't want to fall onto that piece.
Oct 7, 2007
The original start is great and I disagree with the author on avoiding it. It protects well with smaller cams and make the the whole climb constantly challenging. Climb the left-facing dihedral to the left of the 5.7 start. This makes the first pitch 10d.
Sep 9, 2007
Climbed this for the third time recently, I have now done all 3 start variations. The 10a start is accurately described by Ivan. The upper pitch is shorter than I remembered, maybe only 120' or so. The jams also seemed less bomber (flared) than I remembered, and it helps to have big hands on this pitch. The crux on this pitch seemed to me at the small 1' overhang (between the cracks). This pitch will uncover any flaws in your crack climbing and stemming technique!
Jul 12, 2004
Damn, what a fine crack this is. For me, the balancy 5.7 section off the deck was the scariest, it's a wee dirty and funky. Once above the ledge the stemming is fabulous then the jamming goes on for a longish time. I was glad I had 2 #1 Camalots, and a #3.5. Several rests provide opportunity to de-pump your left arm.
May 13, 2003
10a start: This is the shallow left facing corner and thin crack right of the regular start and just right of the 5.7 variation. The Rolofson guide calls this 10a, and that's about right. The start, up to a ledge, is harder than it looks. The step right at a ceiling is a little exciting, with gear up high and left, and about 5.9. You probably don't want to combine this start with the second pitch due to rope drag over the ceiling. You would need a really long sling to prevent drag, and that would make the step right a little too exciting.
Jan 6, 2003
I combined the first and second pitch easily with a 60m rope, for a very enjoyable long pitch. I stayed near the 5.7 start, but actually went slightly right of the 5.7 section, climbing through the bulge via the 5.9-ish squeeze slot. Granted it doesn't sound very appealling, but it was a short section, well protected with a standard rack, and quite fun. Combining the pitches is highly recommended, but the average 5.8/5.9 leader will want to double up in the 1-3 Camalot sizes to do it.
Sep 23, 2002
- Upper Security Risk
- "S" Buttress, The
- Cold Shot
This is listed under "Higher Security Risk", a separate rock. Please add comments about Cold Shot there.
Jan 17, 2005
- Cracking the Code
We thought this route kind of sucked. Awkward first pitch but pretty well protected. My partner had a little bit of trouble clipping the bolt before the crux but managed. Second pitch completely blows. Wanders all over the place trying to find the hardest climbing. Bolts are poorly located resulting in biners loading over edges, rope running over edges, etc. The anchor is kind of a botched job as well as it isn't well equalized. Not really worth doing.
Nov 10, 2011
The first pitch is indeed cryptic and on the first attempt I was perplexed. Aided by beta, the second attempt went much better. The second pitch is pretty good but is still somewhat dirty, unless I was way off-route. I'm pretty certain you can rappel from the 2nd-pitch anchors with a 60m rope.
Sep 7, 2008
Thank you Joe, P2 & P3 combined offers great position with 3 mid 5.10 cruxes the 3rd. and highest on loose/friable flakes.
Jan 17, 2004
If you don't do the 2nd pitch, then you're missing out. The first pitch, in of itself, is probably not two-star quality. I thought the better climbing was on the 2nd pitch. The position is also excellent, though there is a bit of looseness. Climbing all the way to the top from the anchors at the top of pitch 1 is about 90 feet of climbing and one 60m rope easily gets you back down to that anchor.
Sep 19, 2003
I also believe that 11b is on par with other sport routes in Boulder Canyon. The climbing is not powerful, but good use of your feet is key.
Jan 9, 2003
The first pitch is a little ugly compared to the other routes nearby. The upper pitches look good, but I didn't do them. I'll be back for those pitches. The first pitch seemed easier than two 11a's I did the same day, Led Astray and Cold Shot. One hard move between good stances. If it were trad, I'd call the first pitch 10b/c. I say that, because I more often than not cannot onsight 10c trad clean (I know that's redundant) yet I onsighted this quite easily. The rating of this may be consistent with modern sport climbing standards, but I can't say, being new to sport climbing after 30+ years trad.
Jan 6, 2003
I did all 3 pitches and liked the whole route. It is aptly named, as the crux is complex but not so physically hard. I didn't high-step either. The first pitch was 5.11, and the second was 5.10. The third felt like 5.10 as well, but maybe that was the pump factor. I lead the first two pitches as one for sure, and if I remember correctly, I lead the entire thing as a single pitch on a 70m rope. Sorry, but I don't recall how much rope was left at the end. I did skip some clips and use some 2' long slings along the way to avoid drag. We walked off of the top.
Sep 12, 2002
- Crash Test Blondes
Not sure who replaced these, but the anchor bolts are now fresh ASCA hardware. Support them and your local re-bolting efforts (the BCC) if you value safe hardware. The top 2 bolts prior to the anchor still need to be replaced. P.S. very good hand-jam at the roof-crux-flake.
Jan 30, 2016
What a killer route, I thought the business end was in the beginning, but the roof moves were quite amazing. I think this would be a little easier for a smaller person (smaller fingers).
Jan 6, 2016
This is a wonderful route. The only problem it has is one of consistency--most of the route, save the roof at the very end, is good 5.10, and the roof itself is 5.11. There is one confusing point about halfway up below a small roof. There appears to be a blank face leading to a small roof with no holds and a huge runout to the next bolt. There is actually a bolt obscured by the small roof.Get your feet high, stand up with the aid of a small 2-finger sidepull used for balance, and then reach for the big hidden crack underneath the small roof and make the clip. The roof at the top is the star of the route. When approaching the roof, you have to go left, clip the bolt in the middle of the roof, and then work your way right and undercling the huge flake. Then you can clip the bolt at the edge of the roof. The next moves are super-burly.You have to get your feet really high and you are really exposed (although there is no dangerous fall potential). Work your hands up and move to the right to get a big hueco and another big hold over the roof. Then, with the left foot really high, haul your way over the top. Stellar.
Jun 16, 2005
As of October, both bolt anchors still have at least an inch worth of washers; this seriously compromises the strength with the bolts sticking out this far.
Nov 22, 2002
Great route! The first one we did up there...a good sign of things to come.
Nov 20, 2002
I did this route on 9/29/02, and the large sidepull between the first and second bolt is loose. It does not feel loose when I was yarding on it, but when I let go I heard a sound that sounded like rock against rock. I then tried to move the hold and found that I could.
Sep 30, 2002
Did anyone fix these anchor bolts? They were sticking way out with a bunch of washers for some unclear reason.
Mar 7, 2002
- Friendly Fire
- Get Smart
Pretty great route for a cool autumn afternoon... ah! I brought a new #5 Camalot and #4 and felt pretty secure with both of these pieces. I thought the OW was going to be the crux, but... I was wrong and pleasantly surprised when I entered the upper crux. Super fun, very well-protected crack climb on good rock in an amazing position! Get on it!
Nov 12, 2013
Great route! I'm surprised it doesn't get climbed more. We only had a 55m rope and had plenty left. Maybe a new anchor was put in lower on the pitch? The "OW" start is not bad, and much more logical to stem around given all the feet. Single new #5 is plenty on the big gear.
Oct 25, 2012
You can get by with a single #5 C4, if you don't mind bumping up the cam for 25ft from good stances. The crack is mostly #5 sized, so an extra #5 or Big bro could be used instead of the #6. Here is my rack for next time: 1 set 0.4-5 C4 Yellow, grey, red Alien Extra 0.75 1 set med-lrg nuts.
Jan 3, 2012
I highly recommend this route. I don't know about soft for 10d, but who knows? 10+ seems about right. I wouldn't call the start "burly offwidthing". It felt about 5.9 to me. Could be a little harder if you had really small hands; I was able to get a few good fist jams along the way. For newer BD sizes (C4s), I used one each of 4, 5, and 6. This is sufficient to be well protected for the start without sewing it up. There may be other gear there. I had the big stuff so I wasn't looking. I'd take doubles in the 0.5 to 0.75 Camalot range. This climb doesn't have any bad sections.
Jul 25, 2009
Steve, We considered continuing up and right (but without consulting a guidebook), but it looked easy and there were bolts that are, apparently, a continuation of Plan B. Perhaps, staying left of the bolts is hard and poorly protected, but it never crossed my mind to avoid the bolts. More likely, I was so relieved to get to the anchors, that I just wanted down.
Apr 20, 2005
I believe the "serious" rating in the guidebook pertains to the 10d s last pitch that comes after the route description by Adam above. I don't think it gets done very often... it looks fairly lichenous and perhaps a bit chossy, as well as run out! And it's also very short, 30 or 40 feet?
Apr 19, 2005
I've wanted to do this route since I first saw it about 2 years ago, but Rossiter's 10dS rating scared me away. Adam's posting of this climb reinspired me. Turns out you can get as much gear as you want, and it may be soft for 10d. You'll want a 4.5 and 5 Camalot for the wide crack. I placed a couple more big cams since we carried our nuclear arsenal up the hill, not knowing what we'd be up against. We all stemmed the wide start, and it was fun and interesting--not at all a grovel. Above the wide crack is an airy moderate overhanging corner. If you don't have double in hand-sized cams (#2 Camalot), you'll want to move your one cam that fits up at least once. You could belay (or bivvy) on the lie-down ledge, but it's better to keep going so that you'll have more rope out for the hard part. The crux shallow right facing right leaning corner is made reasonable by the occasionaly positive foothold. I placed 7 pieces in this corner from a #3 Camalot at the very bottom to a 1/4" nut at the last move. The other pieces were in the red Alien to #.75 Camalot size. No micro cams, although you might get one at the last move. The crux for me was, as Adam implies, the last move over the overhang, due to accumulated pump and placing the last piece rather than to technical difficulties. Both my partners, Luke and Chuck, avoided this by stepping left onto the face directly below the anchor bolts. Overall, the start was better than I expected, and the upper corner was easier and much shorter and safer than I expected.
Apr 18, 2005
Hey Dan, The rangers and signs say that the Security Risk crags are open early this year. If you want to get out there, drop me an email. adam
Apr 12, 2005
I looked on-line a few days ago and this area is open. Blob and Bitty are still closed.
Apr 8, 2005
Hey Adam: Did they lift the raptor closure for Security already? What about Blob Rock -- still closed, usually this one is opened early (before Aug 1) too, unlike Eagle Rock?
Apr 8, 2005
- Hot Flyer
Very nice route with unusually fun, technical and steep climbing. The rock is mostly really good and hosts interesting features uncharacteristic of Boulder Canyon. This could be a 12a, but The Ticket is definitely harder. If Plan B is 12b, then this is no harder than 11d. I appreciate climbing bold routes ground up on gear. However, along with Archangel, I am glad that this route is bolted. There are very few natural gear placements, and not many of them are very good. This would easily be R/X rated without freshly placed heads. In contrast, there are many routes in the canyon that would be far more enjoyable and still reasonably protected without many of the existing bolts.
May 22, 2017
Pretty sustained climbing to a little rooflet boulder problem. This route, along with its neighbor, Plan B, made this little crag one of my favorite sport climbing areas in the Front Range. Can't wait to get on the rest of the .12s at this wall!
Dec 1, 2015
Thank you, Randy, for your historical account of Hot Flyer & complimentary remarks of my retrobolting the climb. There are a few things I would like to clarify. I was belaying Andy Parkin in 1982 when he took the 50-60 foot fall. He fell once at the roof on two fixed copperheads & they held. On his next try, he downclimbed rather than fall & grabbed the heads. His outward pull unseated them. Had the heads pulled in a fall from the roof, he would have possibly decked. As he fell, poor RPs & a #1 Friend zippered. A good nut he placed (above where the 5th bolt is now) caught him. There was a fixed pin a few inches lower. He landed out from the wall, left & slightly above the ledge where you now clip the high 1st bolt. He was unharmed, but that ended the day. A day that began by Andy onsighting Enemy Of The People (.12b). As for retrobolting the route. It was actually Randy Leavitt, who first suggested it to me around Thanksgiving 1993. Henry Lester & I climbed with Randy on our visit to the Virgin River Gorge. Thank you Randy. I retrobolted it in July 1994. I climb the route about twice a year. It is one of best 5.12a sport routes in the canyon. As for the 9th bolt at the roof, the rope biner on the quickdraw hangs below the lip. I do use a medium length quickdraw. It's a clean fall, & the rope doesn't touch the rock. There are two ways to go at the lip. Straight up (a bit harder & less obvious) or left over to The Juice & then back right. I have only fallen once going this indirect way. It was very exciting.
Apr 21, 2015
Wow, 22 comments and only 3 of them relate to the beta of the route...you have to admit, that kinda sucks. My two cents, if you don't like the bolts...don't use them!!! Now let's get to the nitty gritty. This is a fun route, but if you are just breaking into 12s, it may get into your head as there aren't many "clean" falls. Climb this in the shade and at cool temps to help the redpoint attempt. The going is pretty easy through the first few bolts. A temperature-dependent crux awaits halfway up, and the last roof my deceive some. Stay cool, calm, and collected, and this climb holds excellent onsight potential with decent rest opportunities.
Oct 12, 2014
This is a great route and well worth getting on. I agree the climb is solid for the grade. The chains seem to be very rusty at the top and may be ready for a change.
Nov 9, 2009
Does anyone know about the route Limits of Power that Randy mentioned? Thanks!
Jan 9, 2009
Great line on a spectacular crag! With all the recent comments and photos from guys like Randy and Bob Horan, this website is in danger of becoming respectable.
Jan 9, 2009
I just recently stumbled onto this thread about Hot Flyer. I am glad everyone has enjoyed the route, and that brings me happiness. Before the first ascent, I rapped from the top to see if there was actually a line there. Dan Hare was kind enough to show me this crag, and I had already been to the top. On rappel, I could see there was enough protection, except for the roof. While hanging on the rope, I decided to place the fixed copperheads below the roof. My background was that bolts were to be avoided, so the copperheads seemed justified. I did not try the climb or rehearse it on top rope. My rappel was merely to establish that there was a line there worth risking my ass for. I came back with a double rope belay (and two belayers). I believe Harrison Decker and Dan Hare were with me. I led the route, probably without falls (because I don't remember any). I thought it was scary but reasonable. On a subsequent trip, Harrison made the second lead, and I photographed him. I recall, he did fall once above the roof (heads held) but got it clean on his second go. There are a lot of well thought out comments from the folks who post here. I know several of you and have tremendous respect for you (Bob and Chris). That era was a time in Boulder when a lot of talented climbers were putting up routes that had been previously overlooked in the Golden Years of Boulder climbing development. Skip Guerin was the most talented and boldest of the lot. Alec Sharp, Jeff Achey, Harrison Decker, and Bob Horan were also very motivated and talented. Of course, there were Jim Collins and Roger Briggs, who were still active. Anyway, I was proud of Hot Flyer, even though my rappel inspection and copperheads were not perfect style. The comment one of you guys made about fixed copperheads being good for the FA and not for later parties is true, unless the copperheads are beat into the shape of a stopper and wedged into place. That was not the case here. The heads were not that good, even for me. Maybe a year or two later, a top Brit climber, Andy Parkin, tried Hot Flyer. I was told he fell above the heads and almost decked when the heads blew (that might be a 60 foot fall). So he almost died. Years later, Mark Rolofson called me and asked if he could retrobolt Hot Flyer. I remembered Andy Parkin. Who would rap back in to replace the fixed heads? Should a bolt go there instead? In this case, Hot Flyer was a perfect candidate for retrobolting. In fact, I thought it would be selfish of me to say no to Mark. Rolofson was opening the fantastic route for everyone to enjoy. I tell people if they want the thrill, do Limits Of Power, which is safer than Hot Flyer ever was. The lesson I learned is that every scary route doesn't have to stay that way. On the other hand, I would not want to see all scary, classic routes bolted (like Jules Verne). I think it shows a reasonable compromise by the FA team to let some of them be bolted. Bottom line is that many more people have enjoyed this awesome route. I hope to return soon to climb this route again, but clipping the bolts (jeez, like the 30 year anniversary or something). I haven't done Hot Flyer since that FA. I assume Rolofson did a good job on the bolts, because he is probably good at that craft. Thanks, Mark and thanks to all of you who commented on this route. - Randy Leavitt
Jan 8, 2009
Best to traverse in from the right to avoid the choss below the first bolt. However I always go through the choss for some reason? Maybe I should climb in Glenwood. Excellent route. Glad it is bolted. Doesn't let up until the chains.
Nov 9, 2008
Outstanding climbing in any condition.
Oct 28, 2003
I agree that the bolt protecting the crux at the lip of the roof is not in the best place. The bolt is placed such that the carabiner on the rope end of a short quickdraw rests against the lip of the roof. There's pretty big whipper potential here, especially once you commit to the insecure moves on the slab, and big falls could cross load the biner, open the gate, etc... if you use a short draw. Use a long (more than 6 inch) quickdraw here. This route's kind of a sandbag at 11+, compared to similarly graded routes in the Canyon.
Sep 19, 2003
So when you say that only the FA-ist can remove bolts, you give permission for anyone else to place them, in effect... you see, if I go place them, they get to stay until the FA party returns under your rule. So when Fred Becky dies, can someone rebolt everything he ever did? Some day Chouinard, Robbins, Ament, Erikson, etc... they will all be gone. Under this system of 'only the FA party can remove a bolt', you have to start with only the FA party can place one, or eventually anything can be bolted and never stripped. Sometimes it is not about ideals, or even right and wrong, sometimes it is about gauging the probable end result. In this case, 'only the FA party can remove' is not acceptable.
Aug 21, 2003
It took big kahunas to do this route on gear!!!! Holy crap. It's a tenous sport lead with very few clean falls! Don't climb at this crag in the sun if its hotter than 50 degress....
Jun 9, 2003
After thinking about this overnight, I came to the conclusion that it really doesn't matter that much to me (personally), because I've already done it many times, and this is just another case of climber against climber over relatively trivial issues. If Randy returned Hot Flyer to its pre-bolted state, I'd have a new objective to try. Although I doubt I'd ever have the mind to do it on lead, Steve's suggestion to top-rope the route is fair enough and something I could accept. If someone else removes the bolts, I question their authority. If the person is not the first ascentionist, then they have no right to remove bolts unless they represent the greater interests of the climbing community. To often, self-righteous individuals disregard the interests of their community and destroy something valuable that many enjoyed. Bolt wars, the ice flows, ... etc. These acts are selfish and ego driven. If the Boulder climbing community supported the pre-bolt Hot Flyer, I'd be OK with returning it to its original state; however, it is my opinion that this is not the case with Hot Flyer, and only a very few outspoken individuals are making this an issue and will do a disservice to the community by removing the bolts.
Sep 13, 2002
Arms Bizarre has a bolt on it.
Sep 13, 2002
I just want to clarify that I do not favor bolting existing trad routes. I might even bust out the crowbar if I saw bolts on Arm's Bizarre. However, I agree with AC that the circumstances with Hot Flyer are different, and these bolts are not so disturbing. If Randy were to pull the bolts, I would be bummed, but that would be his right, and no one else's. I understand the debate and the fear of setting a precedant by not condoning this. However, pulling the bolts on this route is disservice to the entire climbing community. Peace.
Sep 12, 2002
Removing the bolts from this line is a terrible disservice to the climbing community. Hot Flyer was certainly a bold ascent by Randy, and re-equiping the line was a good contribution by Mark. The bolts are well placed. The self righteous should be constructive, not destructive. Focus your energy on putting up new bold lines. You can write them up and then everyone will still know how hard core you are.
Sep 12, 2002
My understanding of this situation is thus: Randy was asked if some bolts could be added to the climb to make it safer and was agreeable in the matter. When later hearing just how many bolts were added, he was/is somewhat dismayed. Perhaps with a few less bolts, it would still have a degree of commitment but still be safe, as opposed to yet another mindless clip-up of which there are plenty around.
Aug 2, 2002
I have no problem with retrobolting if the 1st ascentionist gave his permission, although the bolt at the crux seems poorly positioned, but I heard a slightly different story. I heard that Randy wasn't asked, but that when told it had been bolted he didn't want to make an issue of it. It's true that if it hadn't been retrobolted it wouldn't get as many ascents, but so what? The people who would do the route, and there are those people around, would have a different experience than just ticking another .12a, they would probably feel the quality more intensely. Why should those who value that quality be deprived? If you want to toprope it, it can be accessed via PLAN B, so that's not an absurd idea. I know somebody who doesn't know any better will trot out that old line about how you don't have to clip the bolts...at the very least my experience has been that it's like seeing a movie and somebody who's seen it already is describing the plot out loud behind me. The annoyance factor spoils the show. Having a running monologue in your ear about the bolts and 'whether to clip it' and 'can you skip it' just isn't conducive to focusing on the climbing. There are a large number of routes around here that would have been excellent with a few bolts but are quite forgettable at their over-bolted, lower standard. This is the best route at the crag, but it could have been better.**
Dec 6, 2001
I appreciate the value of a true hard trad climb and hate to see these all retro bolted. I agree that marginal fixed gear (such as questionable pins and copperheads) makes for a daring lead for the FA but is really silly and irresponsible for future climbers as this type of lead does not use solely clean gear. As such, adding bolts does not seem unreasonable. If the FA had placed all gear on lead, without pins, then I would think differently. I know people are against seeing bolts added to old trad routes, but I hate nothing more than trying to lead a route that relies on pins, that were new and good 20 years ago, but are now crap. Fixed gear is fixed gear whether it is bolts or pitons.
Dec 5, 2001
Originally done ground-up. The problem with keeping a route like this in the original style is the FA party had a hammer and placed heads and a marginal pin or 2. So even though a very dangerous lead for the FA, the gear was adequate, but the climb only gets more dangerous for subsequent ascents over time as the fixed gear erodes. A similar example is the style of the FA of Stratosphere and Air Voyage in the Black where Coyne and/or Leavitt placed marginal fixed gear (poor quarter inch bolts, heads, etc.) with a hammer for the FA gear (and on rappel by the way). This is a style of FA that provides adequate pro for the FA team and really just sandbags future ascentionists. Hot Flyer is a classic sport climb, and although I hate to see trad routes retrobolted, it seems to work in this instance.
Dec 5, 2001
The reason I asked how it was done is to find out if it was originally worked on TR, pro placed on TR, etc. There is a world of difference between true ground-up climbing and headpointing, and plenty of so-called trad routes relied on these tactics without explicitly mentioning their use. In some ways, I agree that the route should have been left unbolted, but I doubt anyone would ever do it these days. In part, this is because it isn't hard enough to attract the attention of most climbers who would want to take the risk. It would become a museum piece instead, looked at but rarely climbed. Again that could be a good thing, but I have to say I prefer the hypocrisy of leading a once-scary route on bolts and admiring the skill of the FA to hassling over a TR setup for a single 12a pitch with a 30 minute uphill approach. Most people, myself included, wouldn't bother.
Dec 5, 2001
Randy Leavitt never gave Mark Rolofson permission to retrobolt this route.
Dec 4, 2001
I don't know how this route was worked originally, but I would say that it probably would not be climbed often if still a trad route. My understanding was the FA gave permission for the retrobolting. This must have been one hell of a lead on gear....
Dec 4, 2001
I think most 5.11 sport climbers would have a pretty hard time with this one. Does anyone know how Randy Leavitt did this one? I'm guessing it wasn't ground up.
Dec 4, 2001
I agree with Peter on this one. Great route, tough throughout, solid for the grade. Also having never seen Peter Beal write so many sentences about a route, it must be a good one! (Just kidding, Peter.)
Dec 4, 2001
- Hot Wire
I hang-dogged this route last weekend: it's super fun! Not much dirt or loose rock, so I assume it's cleaned up a lot since the description was written here. The crux at the roof seemed pretty hard, but it's easy to pull on draws and get through it. The bolts are close enough together so that even if you're not a 12c climber it's still a fun route to throw yourself at. Get on it!
Jul 6, 2016
Bobbi's redpoint was awesome, today, especially after the effort we spent working the route Friday & today. It has been 18 years since I redpointed this route. Chris Alber was the first to send the route on March 8, 1997. For him, the route flowed easily & he called it .12c. In fact, he'd sent it two or three times before I finally redpointed it on March 23, 1997. Hot Wire was my first hard tick after recovering from a shoulder injury. I thought it was .12d. It took me longer to redpoint it than any other .12d at Security Risk. I rated it .12c/d in my last Boulder Canyon guidebook, because I was uncertain on the grade. The route would be rated .12c if it ended at 6th bolt. Then almost every move is 5.11 until above 10th bolt. It's tricky climbing, & the most obvious way may not be the easiest sequence. This long section of the route could easily be rated .12a. After a great no hands rest below the 12th bolt, the overhung headwall is .12a/b above the bolt. Hard to cheat through this section. Great route even though it needs a fixed chain draw on 5th (crux) bolt to make this clip easier. It is important to mention Rick Leitner on the first ascent, since he bolted & cleaned the route. Then he recruited me. I straightened out the line at 9th & 10th bolts making it more sustained. I pulled off the key hold starting the crux but luckily held onto it & didn't drop it. I glued it back on as I felt it would nearly impossible without it. Nothing was chipped or manufactured. Nothing at Security Risk is chipped. Leitner established a lot of routes in Boulder Canyon in the 1990s. He didn't chip or manufacture anything until 1998. Adam Brink who thinks this is chipped is pretty ignorant & judgmental. We recruited Chris for the first redpoint. I should mention that he didn't own a drill until 1998.
Apr 12, 2015
Absolutely loved sending this route today. It was mental all the way to the anchors. Clipping the bolt over the roof was probably the crux of the route for me, because I had to climb out of sequence in an unnatural way, make the clip, to get into the crux. Who knows, being a mere 5'4" has its challenges :). There's some good rests here and there, but it is very continuous to a hard section at the very top. This route is just as awesome as its neighbor, Plan B. Good rock, super cool position, and the view of the Indian Peaks at the top of this 100 foot route doesn't suck either!
Apr 12, 2015
I thought this was a great route despite everyone bashing on it. Quite varied and consistently tricky climbing most of the way. Super fun crux as well with some fun moves on big buckets to finish the route with great exposure!
Dec 6, 2012
I, myself, am surprised that I hadn't been on this rig until today. As for the quality, etc, I am a full on route snob and despite a couple holds of questionable integrity, I thought the movement was quite enjoyable. As for the (crux) hold enhancement accusations...I think the "mini strip-steak" hold starting the crux, which obviously was glued back on, should be removed and the climb sent without it. It appears that there will be ample hand grips in its absence; just a little bit harder, perhaps. As far as the right-hand sidepull, that one looks like it maybe was gouged out, but it's hard to say for sure. My impression is this route musta bin way dirtier and for a while, post FA. I'd say it cleaned up rather well. I'd knock it one star for the massive rest at the top and the slightly contrived feeling of the moves getting up to the last roof lip.
Nov 27, 2011
I thought this was a great route, and as it cleans up with a bit more traffic it will only get better. It's very continuous and felt solid at the 12c grade--the thought-provoking crux is followed by 5 or 6 bolts of sustained 5.11 climbing. If you're tired of the overgraded one-move wonders in Boulder Canyon, check this thing out. As for the alleged chipping, like Dan said it's hard to tell based on appearance. It certainly doesn't climb like a chipped route, especially at the crux, which could easily have been dumbed down a couple notches with one strategically placed quarter-pad crimp. Either way, it's a really fun route well worth a reconnaissance burn at a minimum.
Jun 29, 2007
Adam, you say the route was chipped with such conviction. It's not obvious to me -- you may be correct; however, I would get the facts before making such a statement.
Jun 5, 2007
Correct me if I'm wrong but.... this route seems heavily chipped. Even if there was a lot of cleaning for the first ascent, the whole middle third is covered in chisel scars and obviously enhanced crimps. A sad climb.
Jun 5, 2007
Fantastic route despite the claims of it being chipped (hard to tell). It does have a lot of rock scars and friable rock in the upper dihedral, but the roof crux is way cool and the climbing very sustained -- 100 foot (30 meter) pitch. The flake at the chains is suspect and will eventually pull off (beware). Combined w/ Hot Flyer and Plan B in a single outing -- this would be a great power-endurance workout.
Jun 4, 2007
- Juice, The
I established "The Juice" in August 1994. I redpointed it 7 times over the next 2 years. My best day of climbing at this crag was redpointing The Juice, Plan B, Hot Flyer & Just A Little Insecure all on the same day. A great workout! The Juice has 10 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. The crux is definitely height-dependent. This is why I rated it 5.12d/13a in my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I".
Mar 5, 2014
This route is flippin' hard. I have heard by many that the route has a height-dependent crux and many people do it dynamically. I am only 5'7" and could do the move entirely static by using very high feet and opposing sidepulls. This route seemed every bit of 5.13 to me. The feet were very tricky in a lot of spots, beta was a bit tricky to figure out at the crux (especially if your short), and the final pull over the lip requires some juice, hence where the route probably gets its name. Great route, though!!!
Dec 3, 2012
Got on this for the first time the other day- climbs way better than it looks from below- lots of long moves between positive crimps. The quality is diminished by the fact that it shares a rest with Hot Flyer to the right (and possibly another hold?).
Jan 31, 2011
- Just A Little Insecure
I actually enjoyed this more than Hot Flyer, but I'm a sucker for aretes.... Super technical, balancy climbing until you hit the jug above the 3rd bolt. Felt like a super high-ball boulder problem!
Dec 7, 2014
R rating with out a stick clip. Not too bad though. I do not think you will die if you botch it. From the fall anyways.
Aug 18, 2008
- Led Astray
I found the second clip a bit awkward, but not particularly scary; maybe I was oblivious to the groundfall potential. I would have given the route two stars but for the sixth bolt, which does seem in the wrong place like Ivan says. You have to go quite a bit left of the bolt line and then traverse right using the small crystal foothold, which wasn't clear to me for a while. That was probably the most difficult move for me. The crux move through the dike wasn't terribly difficult for me because I did a huge left high step and was able to reach up to the jug. The last moves diagonally up to the anchors were fun. Since the anchors are well to the right of the bolt line it is somewhat difficult to clean.
Jun 16, 2005
- Plan B
The climbing to the 2nd anchor is great... and there has Mussy hooks to lower from. It is obviously not climbed much judging by the lichen, but get on it.
May 22, 2017
What a route!!!!
Jan 6, 2016
Maybe my favorite mid .12 sport climb in the Front Range. For real, this climb is just about as good as a single pitch route can get. Very solid at the grade.
Dec 1, 2015
"Relentless" is right on. I don't think there's a single move easier than about 5.11d for the first 60ft or so. Fantastic climbing. I won't put a grade vote in until I redpoint it, but I'll say this: it's for sure every bit of 5.12b, and felt harder than many 12b's I've tried in Rifle, RRG, etc. In fact, having just been on Ten Digit Dialing a couple weeks ago, I'd say the hardest move on Ten Digit is harder, but this is more sustained.
Aug 8, 2015
Plan B has been one of my favorite climbs since it was established in 1994. It is always a super pump with fun moves. Here are the first ascent facts: F.A.: Ken Trout in Feb. 1994. F.F.A.: Henry Lester in April 1994. Finished added (F.A. of entire route) by Mark Rolofson in July 1994. Most people still stop at the first anchor. I find the finish, even though not as hard, rounds out the pump. It climbs the entire 95 ft. face rather than ending it on a slabby section. Ken was using 50 meter ropes so it made sense to put the anchor here. Now I would like to make one very important correction to Ken Trout's comment. Yes, the name comes from being our Plan B of the day. However, Henry & I were not planning on SNEAKING into the Flatirons to climb Slave To The Rhythm on the East Ironing Board. In fact, until that very day, the East Ironing Board was never closed. I used to climb here in Spring 1991-92 until I redpointed Slave To The Rhythm in June 1992. Henry had not yet redpointed the route but was close in Spring 1994. At the time, the Third Flatiron's Southwest face was closed for a prairie falcon. When it was discovered that a peregrine falcon was nesting there, an emergency closure was put in place. We & other climbers were turned around by a ranger at Bluebell shelter. The peregrine was on the endangered species list at the time, so the seasonal closure was expanded to include the Third Flatiron & everything for a 2 mile radius. It still is this size even though the peregrine falcon was delisted in 1999. My point here is that even though I am a strong critic of both seasonal closures of the Security Risk & the East Ironing Board, I have never violated or attempted to violate any raptor closure. In fact, such actions reflect negatively on the entire climbing.
Feb 27, 2015
Wow, what a fantastic line that just doesn't let up until bolt 6 and even then isn't a gimme! I definitely agree that this is a temperature dependent route. I gave it a near onsight at 50 degrees in the shade, and 30 minutes later at 60 degrees and in the sun it felt much more difficult. I'll have to go back to get this one.
Oct 12, 2014
This route is essentially 3-4 awesome boulder problems linked with OK rests between. Super fantastic and well-protected route. Bakes in the sun and is actually kind of slippery if not below 50 degrees.
Nov 12, 2013
A few days ago, a new climbing friend was questioning me about the name of this route. I thought to check and see if Richard had covered it and found not. After all, who would know the story behind the name of Plan B? Most names have no story at all. Actually, my friend had been out climbing with Mark Rolofson a lot and was more like: "So Ken, is it Plan B because you couldn't do it and went elsewhere?" No! It was Mark and Henry's Plan B. Plan A was to sneak into the Flatirons and try "Slave to the Rhythm", but the first ever spring bird closure was in effect and a ranger found them. They were sent packing back down the trail. Mark knew I had bolted something big. I even told him it would be cool if a bunch of other people would do the route so some chalk would build up on the holds. I was sick of grubby, dirty, first ascents. At the time, there was nothing else in Boulder Canyon with millions of bolts. Mark convinced Henry that the best alternative plan for the day was to head up and do the route before me. I wrote the song, and they played it first.
Aug 25, 2013
This feels like the Front Range 12b benchmark... absolutely stunning route... stoked to check out the two other highly rated 12s @ this wall.
Nov 8, 2010
Fantastic climb - best I've been on in Boulder Canyon. Great cold weather climb - gets the sun around 11 am until sunset. Nice suntrap in the corner. 1st clip is reachy if short - consider a stick clip. Can skip the 3rd bolt.
Nov 1, 2009
This is a superlative route. I have made it my goal to redpoint this route; if I do, I shall be able to retire from climbing and life. The route is very aesthetic, on a nice granite face with the starkly-delineated pink dike running throughout, yielding many crystalline holds. The extension brings the pitch closer to a full 30m, but contains much easier climbing and is still fairly dirty. It can be skipped. The route begins to receive sun shortly before noon. After working through the 5th-bolt sequency crux many times, I can provide some beta: clip 5. Do not go right to the dike; on this path lies only despair. Put left hand on L-facing arete; bring R foot down to ramp directly underneath you. Lieback to R; get L foot high and left to very small edge. Crank up on arete and L foot to get 2-finger undercling flake with L hand. Move R foot higher up ramp. Get R hand high to diagonal crimper. R foot higher. Match L hand to crimper. In a balancy move, reach R to sloper under 6th bolt. Switch feet, clip 6 with L.
Sep 7, 2008
Don't miss this one.
Jul 26, 2005
Sport climbing in Boulder Canyon doesn't get much better than this route and Hot Flyer.
Oct 28, 2003
Best mid-5.12 and under sport climb in the Canyon? Two 5.12 cruxes with a good shaking hold between them. Lots of other mid to hard-5.11 cruxes.
Sep 19, 2003
The climbing is fun and the hand holds are good, but the feet are rather slippery. I dont reccomend trying this route in warm weather even if its in the shade, but it is a great route. It is worth the hike!
Jun 9, 2003
4 stars on a 3 star scale.
Oct 2, 2002
- Pup
Thanks, Dale and Bruce, for the new anchor. We were up on Plan B when you were replacing. Really appreciate the effort!!! Went up today and saw the nice shiny new equalized anchor bolts. Direct start was very hard for me. Green and yellow Aliens protect it well, but climbing straight up the crack (instead of "cheating" the start using the blocks out left and moving back right above the crack) is solid 5.10, if not a low 5.11 move on those thin finger locks. Not much for feet getting off the ground. Felt harder than any move on the upper section of Get Smart. Maybe I am just missing something obvious though or too short (5'9" in shoes). Easy to place the cams, then clip the 1st, then back clean the cams. 5.9 minus the "direct" start sounds about right for Bocan. There are several spots for small cams and nuts on the way up if you feel like doing a mixed trad lead.
Nov 15, 2015
Dale Haas and I did some anchor renovation on this route. We removed the upper cold shut and bolt. We also replaced the cold shut hanger on the lower bolt with a SS Fixe. We added a new bolt, Powers SS, next to the lower bolt and added SS Quick Links and SS rap rings to both bolts. The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA - safeclimbing.org). Support of the ASCA is greatly appreciated.
Sep 29, 2015
A stick clip is wise here.
Aug 8, 2015
The two anchor bolts at the top of this route were poorly placed, one bolt being about a foot higher, but also six inches to the left of the other bolt. With several quicklinks and links of 3/8" chain, I was able to create a situation where both bolts are both about equally loaded. Now, if one bolt fails, the other should not be shock loaded. The welded cold shut on the lower bolt is definitely showing signs of wear, hopefully this was because of the improper placement of the bolts and not because someone is belaying and lowering directly through the anchor. I was not able to figure out how the lower of two cold shuts would be the one to show wear unless people were clipping a draw into the upper bolt and threading the rope through the lower cold shut which would create an equalized anchor.
Oct 20, 2007
The first clip is most easily placed from the stemming position described, but may be difficult for shorter people. I really liked this route. It had a lot of nice laybacking. I thought it was on the high end of 5.9 in terms of difficulty.
Jun 16, 2005
A good route and very useful as a warm up for some of the nearby routes. However, it's very unfortunate that this route includes so many bolts within inches of easily protectable cracks. Tom Hayes and I put up the S Buttress in 1993 on natural gear about a year or so before Pup went in. The S Buttress starts at the same place as Pup but goes straight up instead of right near the first bolt on Pup, then traverses in where the 4th bolt is located, then goes up the same line from there.Really no need for bolts at all above the 3rd, a standard rack enables very safe gear placements.
Oct 25, 2003
To make the first clip, place a small cam--green or yellow Alien. Then step right to a foothold from the block on the left. Don't climb from below (that's hard). I thought the rest of the route was quite easy but very nice. The first clip is also easy if done as described above.
Dec 8, 2002
Sure felt harder than 5.9 to get to the first clip, but I am not very tall. My 5'6" partner though it was VERY hard. The higher crux felt like 5.9 though, for both of us.
Sep 12, 2002
- S Buttress Direct
I went back and led this with Steve last week and I must say this is a quality 5.10 trad route. A nice addition as there are not many at this grade in the area. Clipping the 1st bolt of "Crash Test" is a good way to avoid any danger from falling on the tree at the start, but the rest of the route goes nicely with gear.
Aug 2, 2005
- Sentinel Slab
- Sherwood Forest
- Boyz From The Hood
Nobody in my party today particularly enjoyed this one. It's not a bomb, but one star. It's just weird. Like Keith, I'm normally all for technical moves, but it just wasn't very fun. I squeezed into the slot between bolts 1 and 2 which was a bit nerve wracking, though not super hard. The book says moving onto the face on the left isn't the crux, but that part actually felt the most straightforward after all the awkwardness below it. For me, the crux was getting to the first bolt, though I probably read it wrong. Also agreed with Tony, no need for the sling. Once you're there, it's 5.easy to the chains.
Jun 1, 2017
Fun route! Tricky start followed by an optional offwidth and then interesting traversing moves.
Jun 24, 2016
I liked this line. Compared to other 10a's in the canyon it felt harder. But I'd stick with 10a for the rating.
Oct 15, 2011
I did not enjoy this route very much. I agree with Cribbs. The moves on this route were awkward. I'm all for technical routes, but this route was just unpleasant. The only redeeming feature of this route was when I decided to run out the last bit by ignoring the clip, staying on the original face, and hitting up the high-foot layback in the crack. Try the route to the right of this one. Much better.
Sep 4, 2011
The move onto the face is a bit tricky and the poor feet make the next clip interesting.
Aug 12, 2010
This climb gave me the feeling that it was meant to be 10a, but someone took all the good holds and faced them the wrong direction.
Jul 19, 2010
The sling for the horn is not necessary.
Jun 19, 2009
Not as clean or as nice as the routes on the main wall. While the climbing is OK, it lacks the distinct and singular line that make a great route great.
Jul 3, 2008
- Fatman and Robin
Fun route, although a little confusing at the middle tier of the three roofs. There are two lines of bolts above the first roof. I was intending to climb T&F but moved back right which (I think) was Avenger [now clarified as Fatman and Robin]. I clipped after I gained the roof, but clipping as you move from left to right is probably a better idea. I found the move to be a little harder than Merry Men. Very balancy as you're forced to push out with you left hand from below as you try to find something for your right. The middle section has some great stemming moves once you reach the right-facing block. No hands!
May 17, 2010
We found this climb by counting two climbs right of Sheriff's Tariff (an obvious line up the white dike). The second last bolt moves right of Tuckered and Fired then back left and shares the last bolt + anchors.
Jun 1, 2009
It took a while to figure out which route might be right of 'Tuckered and Fried', but only 2 routes left of 'Little John', because there are 3 routes between. Eventually we settled on the conclusion that the left most of the uncertain routes was easier (Fatman and Robin), and the right route was harder (The Avenger). This route is 2 routes to the right of Tuckered and Fried. Which anchor are you supposed to finish on? You can go left or right from the last bolt, or perhaps directly up (which I did for 20 feet or so though one more roof). Seems like another anchor could add more climbing, one more bulge, and leave it separated from the others. The best of the 'new' routes here. Jugs through a roof for a crux, but I didn't find a crux down low as stated in the description.
Jul 3, 2008
This was a FUN route! Just wondering if anyone else has found that you can stem from the small dihedral/arete to the far right flaring crack? Or a knee bar @ the first roof? Also, any beta on the moves over the second roof? They seemed a little sketchy and took a bit of mental strength for what I consider a 10. I'd call it a 10+.
May 9, 2005
Thin 5.10 face climbing with some tricky moves leading to an imposing roof. A little "new route grunge" doesn't detract from the quality of the moves. I clipped the 6th bolt over the roof and moved left to bigger holds instead of tackling the roof directly. Moving back right was a challenge and I took a few hangs to figure out the moves. I eventually got back on route and finished the climb. The way I did it was harder than 10c and my initial attempt at tackling the roof directly felt harder than 10c, so I'll give the route an 11a grade . Next time, I'll try the roof straight on and see if I can figure out the sequence.
Aug 13, 2004
- Little John's Big Stick
I lead this bottom section on gear. You could pretty much stand just above the ground and place a very small stopper or RP to protect the first move to good gear. I didn't bother and just clipped the bolt. Then lead on good gear until the start of the dihedral. After that it would be dicey on gear at best. I won't even bother with the gear/bolt debate above, and I just lead it because I enjoy placing gear. Probably could just bring 4-5 cams for this. I placed a #0.5, #1, #3, and a yellow Alien. Probably should have used a #2 as the #3 is high on the pillar as Ron mentioned. You probably could find some crap in the dihedral, but why bother. This isn't Serenity Crack.
Jul 2, 2008
I brought my trad rack to Sherwood Forest this afternoon and led Little John's Big Stick on gear. The direct start up the corner is hard and poorly protected, so I came in from the right and got a bomber #3 Camalot as my first placement, just as Tony says. Above, I got solid placements with a #.75 Camalot and a red Alien before reaching the detached pillar. I put a #2 Camalot in the crack at the base of the pillar, but avoided putting a bigger cam up higher. At the horizontal crack I got a good red tricam. From here, it's three bolts to the anchor. My assessment: LJBS is a reasonable and fun climb done in this manner. All gear placements are in solid rock, and the #2 Camalot placed at the base of the detached pillar would exert mimimal levering on the pillar in the event of a fall (which is unlikely since the climbing is easy in this section).
Aug 12, 2004
Bob, I sent you this before, but so long as you continue lighting fires pretending this does not exist, I guess that my moral compass says it is the least of the possible evils to post it. Richard, if you are reading this, forgive my divulsion of a personal email. Since you said you wanted to avoid a bolt war, I am acting in my best conscience in posting this to do so. Maybe I shoulda done it a long time ago, maybe you shoulda. Maybe, Bob, you are interested in this because you've bolted handcracks yourself such as up in CCC on the Crystal Tower, chipped holds in climbs, and claimed the FA of routes you have never climbed... but I digress. So here is the permission from Richard. Apparently there is confusion and I generally don't like posting formerly private emails, but if it will put a bolt war to bed, here it is. ----------------------- "Tony, Thanks for contacting me directly. Frankly, LJBS has always been an after-thought in my mind. Not a big deal by any means. I could care less whether it is bolted from the start or trad, so if you are in the area and want to yank them, have at it. If you do pull them, it would be a good idea to have this noted somewhere. While it would not take a rocket scientist to see that some pro would be useful, with the notation placed in the route description, someone could plan on taking the gear. We should be careful not to start an all-out trad-sport conflict. (Insert- I have removed a few sentences of text here regarding other bolted cracks and their locations and FA parties which I don't know Richard would approve of me posting.) Perhaps if it is clear that the FA party is in agreement, or doesn't care, then it may be less of a declaration of open warfare. -Richard " ------------ Bob, are you satisfied now that this is public? Can we move on? You can call it alleged if you like, and I won't argue. You know well enough though that I am honest and try to do right, and I think you know (regardless of what you might say in public) that I am not making a word of that up. Richard's 'consensus' statement was much later and in the context of involving a local bolt chopper and what he said was: -----------"So long as there is no disagreement about bolt removal, it may not matter a great deal who does so. But, I do agree that ************ is probably the wrong choice."--------- So let's not cloud that any further. Let's move on. Regardless of what was said later, I was given permission to remove the bolts and that is clear. Richard also warned me that it might touch something off. He was right. I did what I did because I saw something touching off if I didn't and I though that the bolts were unnecessary and that proper removal (clean, non-violent, with permission) is better than hanger-smashing, which is less reasonable and certain to enrage. Now that all of the facts are out, I have nothing further to say. I accept the responsibility for what I did, and I accepted it openly before. But I'm not taking crap for what I didn't do and I absolve myself from any responsibility for the future. I told you what I think is impending and if it happens, remember I told you about it in advance and you made your own choices. I'm over it.
Aug 12, 2004
Oh brother, Tony's weary. Tony, you started this. You sat on your high horse and loudly proclaimed your intentions to the world. Deal with it ya whiner.
Aug 9, 2004
posted on this site: By: Richard M. Wright On: 8.24.2003 Comments: Pull them.
Aug 5, 2004
NOW that the hornets nest has been stirred and everyone has "bolting ethics" on their minds... Regarding Castle Rock: P2 of Corinthian Vine has an old fixed copper head near the top (after you pull out of the dihedral and onto the jugs). There is no other gear available and a fall here would slam you into the ledge above Boot Lead/Close To The Edge (assuming the head rips). Should a bolt replace this "fixed" head? Or should this lead continue to be spooky? And why is there a bolt on that ledge anyway? Suppose that the fixed head wasnt there anymore? ok, gentlemen, start your engines...
Aug 5, 2004
We were kinda overdue for one of these discussions... but a quick note from a "moderator" of the site: One, this is a legitimate topic for discussion. Two, people seem to be failing to follow the single rule we have for posting: "Don't be a jerk." I know that's pretty complicated, but please do try.
Aug 4, 2004
Paul, where, exactly do you stand on this issue??? Show me the [relevance] of WHATEVER I said to the incremental n=1,2,3...infinity expression (Are you trying to express this in terms of a series...) you used. Would you approve of the removal of any bolt on the routes you established? I'm not suggesting you approve, just trying to understand what you are getting at. Tony, You had to of known that this would become the topic of another heated debate that you have very definite views on. And you have cast youself in the middle of it. I can't help but wonder what you real intentions are??? megalomaniac???. You say that you did this in order to ease tensions in regard to what some "anarchist" were planning, but I think that you just appeased them. "Give [an] inch and they will want a mile". Time will tell where this will lead. In that moment you were right (I can't disagree), but your actions MIGHT precipitate more anarchy. I hope not, and I hope that you will be right in the long run.....
Aug 3, 2004
On second reflection, perhaps it is all well and good to hold an ethical discussion over a minor route. It's likely that there would not be much to discuss if the bolts had been placed on the 5th pitch of the Naked Edge, or up Pervertical Sanctuary. Like all good discussions this one has at least two worthy and rational sides to it. Tony approached me with the proposition that because popular opinion seemed to lean heavily toward pulling the bolts on LJ, he would do so if I consented. This was a level headed, reasonable, and anything but hysterical request, and that is certainly one characteristic of his. What I told him, in what was hopefully no more agitated a state of mind, was that I personally thought it not a good idea to get into something that smacked of an ethics police "vigilanteeism", but if the general tenor of things favored removal, then pull them. What the F***, I wasn't heavily invested in it in any way and I had no trouble accepting consensus opinion. Bob's argument is every bit as reasonable, and please correct me if don't say this right. The crag was developed largely with bolts since most the routes needed them, and the dozen feet of climbing in question don't add up to very much. There is also a very long tradition in climbing to leave a route in the form of its original ascent, and stripping LJ invites vigilantee bolt wars, and it gives unwarranted credence to the most vitriolic element. Furthermore, the tolerance implicit in Bob's stance provides an opportunity for the climber to exercise their own judgement in their own work. We're climbers afterall, and at least one of the reasons we climb is to define ourselves differently from the 9 to 5 herd mentality that consumes most of our lives. If one tries to cobble together these different sides, along with Steve's position, then it seems to me that we come up with something like the following. If you are putting in new routes, then for the most part you will be working on something you don't own and putting in a route does not confer any greater ownership on the crag. It's still not yours. There is a general preference in Colorado that if the balance of a pitch can be done trad, then leave it trad. If consensus wisdom argues for adjusting a route by adding or removing bolts, then accept the decision based on the greater wisdom. We can all make mistakes. However, I would also add that if we are going to preserve the individuality of climbing and if we are going to recognize the investment that each climber places in climbing, then we are going to have to accept that some things will be done differently than we might choose ourselves. If we can't do this, then climbing is not worth the effort.
Aug 2, 2004
For those that don't know or can't remember the facts of the matter, which as noted by another poster, are archeived on this site... Or for those who didn't bother to read them, or maybe those who KNOW the facts, but just don't want to discuss them honsetly... I didn't even contact Richard Wright about removing the bolts until after he posted publically to this website saying to "pull them." Kudo's to Richard: there are ethical quandries about both placing and removing bolts next to potential gear placements that's I'm unprepared to deal with unilaterally. I removed these bolts with permission, and without it would not have done so. So maybe there was a different "choppin' posse" forming, but I wasn't part of it. I preferred to think of this route as a reasonable and diplomatic agreement of both sides as opposed to ignition of a bolt war. I have no interest in a bolt war. Other people will always see it in their own light. By the way, I was up clipping bolts with Richard just a few weeks ago at a crag he has been developing, Ra. So who said I was anti-bolt? Obviously someone who doesn't know me.
Aug 2, 2004
Not worth the effort.
Mar 5, 2002
- Maid Marian
Pretty silly route. If there is a 5.9 line on here, I couldn't find it. It's ledgy and not really sustained at all, so some of the falls could be less than ideal. I don't think I've ever given a bomb, but this route really doesn't even deserve a star.
Jun 7, 2014
Meh. Not worth it. Go to Prince and the Pauper.
Sep 4, 2011
I think the hangers on this route could be put to a better use... like bolting the approach to highwire in CCC (it's got to be at least a 4.10-) jeeze.
Jul 8, 2009
"Comfortable for the grade" = maybe, 5.7+? IMO, 5.9 is hard. Boulder Canyon grades are soft.
May 10, 2005
I thought that this route was pleasant, comfortable for the grade. I believe that the more experienced climbers tend to forget how easy nines actually are, hence the bomb ratings.
May 9, 2005
This route is an absolute waste. It has nice hangers, though. I suggest that the hangers be removed from this route and put on Little john's Big Stick, a mere three feet to the left, replacing the kinda old- looking cold shuts...
Oct 6, 2002
Maid Marian is a dumb route. And it's loose. And there's friggin spiderwebs everywhere on the route. And it's not even a good warmup, one move is MAYBE 5.8, I don't buy a 5.9 rating.
Sep 6, 2002
- Men in Tights
The slab down low is fun and thought provoking. The top felt like a gym climb with how much chalk was on all the holds.
Jun 7, 2014
Good warmup for the wall.
Aug 15, 2010
A good variety of climbing, and though the top looks chossy, it actually climbs very well.
Oct 4, 2007
This was a great route. Very straightforward and fun. Pleasant and unimposing; the clipping stances are solid.
May 9, 2005
- Merry Men
Top Rope Hero is right on with the above comment. I think that this line is no harder than 10c/d unless you stay directly in line with the bolts. Moving left on the slab at the 2nd bolt is the most logical, obvious, and natural feeling way to do this route and keeps you well within arm's reach of the bolts. I tried to find the 11- moves by staying directly on the bolt line last night. It is certainly harder and probably 5.11 doing it this way, but it felt really contrived. It's a fun route no matter how you do it, but I agree that its not an 11- unless you really want it to be.
Jun 24, 2015
Hmmm...Merry Men seems to be yet another one of those sport climbs that just can't decide what it wants to be. 11b?!? For Christ's sake. Sure, yah, I suppose if you restrict yourself severely to just certain holds, it'd clock in as an 11. But, like the vast majority of sport climbers out there, I consider anything within an arm's reach of the bolt line (like the nubs and the scrubs around to the left) to be decidedly in bounds (and NOT an "escape" as some would have it). Use those close-n-easy-to-reach, natural features on the left and Merry Men comes in at a merry 10d. Maybe even 10c. Challenging, but certainly NOT an 11. The point? Don't. Inflate. Grades. If it's within reach, it's game. And if it's game, then WHY make a contrivance? Why make artificial a line that comes in just fine on its own, even if it's a bit easier than originally imagined? Otherwise, let's just hack off a limb, wear Crisco for shoes, and call every thing out there a V37.
Aug 21, 2010
Just an update. Did this route today and someone has been generous enough to fix the anchor situation referred to above. There is a sold two bolt anchor w/ rings directly above the line of the climb.
Nov 7, 2009
I really liked this route. I climbed it clean just after doing another 11b, so it's probably more like 11a. I escaped left and had a hard time cleaning the route. I couldn't tell if the route was supposed to continue through the lichen or stop at the 2 bolts that were 4 feet apart.
Jun 16, 2008
Devious climbing if you don't escape left to the right-trending rail at the bottom. The anchors seem straight up dangerous; too far apart, left one spins, and awkward to clip. Besides, this thing should pull the roof; it looks like it would go sub 5.12. Maybe some new anchors (does anyone even care)?
Oct 4, 2007
Fun route, hard down low, but I couldn't quite find the 11b staying straight on the bolts.
Jul 13, 2005
Although this as well as Robbin' The Hood are shown in the Rossiter Boulder Canyon guidebook (p. 47) as continuing past the 7th bolt, the rock above is covered in lichen. We ended up traversing right along the ledge and continuing to the top of Prince of Theives, which ends up being about 12 bolts (total) to a 2 bolt anchor and makes for a nice, slightly longer linkup.
Oct 29, 2003
Top left, cold-shut anchor is a spinner, with shaft and hole eroded, if folks clean off any more to the left, downgrade to 5.10, nevertheless still cool....
Sep 2, 2002
Terrific little route. Lots of sidepulls. 11b is generous. Well worth the effort.
Mar 5, 2002
- Prince and The Pauper, The
My climbing partner and I really enjoyed this route, and it seems to be cleaning up nicely over time. The crux was 5th through the 6th bolt and the sequences, and holds were fun. Two stars for me.
Aug 30, 2017
I'm just barely giving this two stars, and that's really only for the "boulder problem" to the first bolt. We also didn't notice any loose rock, and the moves between the 5th and 6th bolt were thought provoking. Certainly merits more than a star, but it wasn't particularly memorable. Worth doing if you're in the area and nobody's on it. All that said, it's probably a pretty good first 5.10 lead.
Jun 7, 2014
Greg, it is possible that you posted it as a condition report? If so, those disappear after some time.
May 4, 2013
Strange, I posted on July 6, 2012 that I replaced the missing anchor mentioned above. That comment has vanished, but it is still on my personal page.
May 1, 2013
FYI, one of the anchor bolts is missing. We used Merry Men's anchor--no problem traversing with the wide ledge.
Jul 2, 2012
Fun line.
Oct 15, 2011
My partner trundled the boulders near the anchor today. It's still got lichen in some of the places you need to smear, but it's getting cleaner and is worth getting on. It's good to have a few warmups before sending Prince of Thieves.
Aug 12, 2010
That big, fragile flake left of the 5th bolt was cleaned off today with the slightest tug and exploded below thanks to Dave. Yeow! There are still a couple of big, mobile chunks just below the anchor that could take out a belayer. Beware.
Jul 22, 2010
- Prince of Thieves
Best route in the area for sure, so glad I did it! I would say this is pretty classic for BoCan. Like an upside-down Tell-Tale Heart.
Aug 19, 2017
Pretty great route and the best at this crag. This would even be worth doing if you climb it at 5.11 C0, because even the climbing above the crux is pleasant. I can see how some folks call this 5.12a. It seems as though this crag has a lot of contrivances and climbing about 10' right of the 2nd bolt, and then working back left to the 3rd bolt would put it at 12a and make it certainly less static than the 12b way. Either way, it's a good route worth doing and feels pretty right on for the 12b grade going directly up from the 2nd bolt.
Aug 10, 2017
This route is great. Just made a trip up to Sherwood Forest and certainly didn't expect the climb to be this good. For sure a classic with a great boulder problem down low and then fun climbing and somewhat of a long route for BoCo. Do it!
Jul 10, 2012
I can't believe this route only gets two stars in the book! In my opinion, one of the best 12b's in the Canyon - bullet rock, cool moves, and pretty long by Bocan standards. Go do it!
Sep 2, 2011
I'd grant this route three stars. It's got a great sequency crux down low, a fairly sustained middle, and a pumpy finish. I really had to work out the crux. The feet are key. Tony's advice is useful: don't clip bolt 3 until it's at your waist. Clipping from the sloper ledge below it will just burn you out. Be sure to get a nice rest at the ledge under the roof, because the last part is pretty pumpy. The fin at the top isn't that great; try to layback it.
Sep 1, 2009
If this route is 12b and the beautiful arete at upper Animal World is 12b then we got a problem. Either way, a fun route that is not in the least bit dynamic (and I'm only 5'10''). Use the good feet through the crux.
Jul 9, 2004
Certainly the best route that I tired in this area. Powerful crux on marginal feet. Fun 5.11 climbing above.
Aug 25, 2003
Pretty hard, devious, boulder problem.
Aug 19, 2003
If you are tall and have long arms, the crux goes static. Nice route in general, 3rd bolt is easiest to clip at the waist. Two stars. I've been on significantly cooler sport routes. Maybe 12a?
Aug 7, 2003
Correction...Robbin' the Hood is route #2 and Prince of Thieves is #3 in the above photo.
Jul 8, 2002
It's a slab. Of course you were scared......
Mar 25, 2002
Although I still feel this is the best route on the wall, in retrospect 3 stars may be a little much. Isn't as good as say, Tell-Tale Heart.
Mar 7, 2002
One of the few worth visiting on this crag. Fun, fun, fun. Use the feet Luke.....
Dec 20, 2001
- Robbin' the Hood
There seems to be two main ways to run this route: 11a if you step out left, 11c/d if you work the entire arete. If you work the arete (seems like THE route), this rig is amazing and unique. The arete is fabulous and made this one of my favorite 11s in BoCan.
Jun 1, 2017
I was taken to task on this route today ... yowsaa
Jul 23, 2012
Combining Robbin' the Hood with the upper section of Prince of Thieves creates a four star 5.11. Bring a shoulder runner for the first bolt at the break to delete rope drag.
Aug 10, 2009
Great route. If you don't enjoy sustained, balancey, tenuous climbing then this might not be for you. Found it hard to onsight...not too hard to TR second go. Excellent practice for your technique and footwork.
Jul 2, 2008
Best route at the crag.
Jul 6, 2007
With the exception of Prince of Theives, I found this to be significantly harder and sustained than any of the other routes at Sherwood Forest.
Oct 29, 2003
Best route at the crag. You can make it power, but you can make it gymnastics and save the strength. Fun either way. One key foot looks like it will be gone some day soon, which might add a crux. One of the most enjoyable sport climbs I've done in a long time. 5.11b. I didn't think it's at the top end of 5.11.
Aug 7, 2003
Fun route. Worth the effort, you can find some good swings if you fall!
Aug 26, 2002
Correction... Prince of Thieves is route #3 and Robbin' the Hood is #2in the above photo.
Jul 8, 2002
Great route. Well worth the effort. Packs a couple of punches. Save some juice for the end.
Mar 5, 2002
- Sheriff's Tariff
I think the new guidebook rating of 11c is correct. Saying this is 11- is a classic sandbag.
Jul 17, 2017
I found this route to be easier than No Direction Home on the Witches Tower, even with going left, and pulling through the roof with my left on the pinch. 11a is sandbagged compared to a typical Boco grade, but it's an honest one.
Jun 17, 2017
My roof beta: Left sidepull (there are three obvious sidepulls and I only used the middle one) while right is on a "ball" like right hand side pull. Left foot up on a ledge just below the huge ledge...right heel toe hook deep in the ledge. Then static right hand reach up to the very beginning of the jugs. Move the right hand progressively back left to better jugs...bring the feet up and the left hand. Clip. Then establish your feet high and move as far right as you can on the jugs. Throw right to a horn. One more pull in and move your feet up move and it is over. If that isn't specific enough....
Jul 2, 2008
Tony- what do think of this line relative to Skippin' Stones in CCC? That can of worms aside, this is a fun line with really one big move to gain the roof. I think this was 11a- I can't flash 11d.
Jul 23, 2007
The holds tend to push you to the right towards Tuckered and Fried, for the first half of the route. The moves are much easier the farther right you go, including at the roof. Following or going left of the bolt line makes this route significantly harder (11d seems reasonable to me). Otherwise the line of least resistance is 11-.
Aug 25, 2003
I don't know that there are any rules about which way to go, but the Left is the better line. Not bad for a short route. It gives the chance to do some overhang without too stout of a grade or getting too pumped. If taking into account the critter poop that was on it this summer you'd subtract one of the two stars though. 5.10b right or 5.11a left -by modern sport standards. If comparing to a route like Gates Of Eden or Left Wing, then the route goes 5.9 right or 5.10a/b left, but let's face it, those are hard at the grade.
Nov 8, 2002
I think it's supposed to be 5.11d if you go over the roof and head left. It's not .11a, but it's not .11d either. Probably (by canyon ratings) an .11c... If you head right over the roof, it's about .11a.
Sep 6, 2002
- Tony Bubb's Little Stick
Another unfortunate, contrived, BoCan embarrassment.
Jul 21, 2011
History and controversy aside, I think this is a fun route. If you stay completely off the block to the left (LJBS), it seemed like a nice 10a route with a 10+ tricky section before the ledge. Squeezed? Yes... but still a nice climb. Two stars in my estimation.
Jul 19, 2008
Crusher, Perhaps the bombs were deleted because most of them came from the same person. Hardly a consensus.
Aug 21, 2004
LJBS is a trivial pile, at best a one star route on a one star crag. I did clip the bolts when it first went in, but personally would never have put them in in the first place, chopped them, or re-installed them. The "disgusting affair" started with the wrong-headed chopping of the route. All we have is agreement with FA wishes and concensus in matters such as these, and it's pretty clear that neither were achieved before chopping. Then, if Alan wanted to take a stand he should have simply re-equipped LJBS. Overlaying a pathologically squeezed and contrived "new route" just provides ammo for the choppers. Disgusting? Check out cb.com, read the transcript, and decide for yourself.
Aug 21, 2004
What happened to the Ray I climbed this route last weekend with?? I leave town for 3 days and he's been abducted!
Aug 21, 2004
Ron describes a stupid but time honored practice, usually promoted by jaded first ascensionists at tiny climbing areas with nothing better to do. Whether the climbing is good in that 24" swath of rock is irrelevant - the whole affair is disgusting.
Aug 20, 2004
Maybe that's why I entered Psych-Gill-Logical in Eldo in this database at a 5.9. I wasn't playing eliminate with it. Looks like my namesake is up for more than a bombing or a chopping, I smell the ultimate wrong-headed evil of a good, solid downgrading coming on. If you can reach it and the bolt at the same time, it's on. Which I guess makes these bolts, or some of them anyway, still "on" LJBS. But whatever.... There would be more to talk about if this were harder than 10a.
Aug 20, 2004
Ray, The red tape never was on the pillar; that was always off route. There is a long history of contrived routes where certain holds were deemed off-route to make the climbing harder. Here are two examples from Eldorado. I quote from Ament and McCarty's "High Over Boulder", 1984 edition: p. 335: "Psyche-Gill-Logical, 5.10b. FA Pat Ament, Dale Goddard 1984. Just left of the Birdwalk is a little right-angling finger crack in an almost overhanging wall. The crack takes fingers and nuts and is one of the nicest short pitches in the area. Climb about 15 feet up the left variation of Birdwalk and make a move left to the base of the finger crack. FOR PURITY, AVOID A SMALL PROTRUSION OF ROCK ON THE RIGHT (NEAR THE TOP OF THE CRACK). " p. 416: "Joke Crack 5.11. FA Alec Sharp, Leonard Coyne, 1981. This climbs a finger crack in a slightly overhanging wall just right of Chockstone. Climb a chimney to the top of the pillar on the left, then ascend the finger crack USING ONLY THE WALL TO THE LEFT OF THE INSIDE CORNER CRACK." (There is an easy stem over to the Purple Haze corner which knocks the difficulty of Joke Crack way down.) So the fact that TBLS places certain holds off-route puts it in the same category as these old Eldorado trad routes done by icons of the Boulder climbing community. Climb the route Alan's way, climb it your way; it really doesn't matter. Personally, I enjoyed the challenge of avoiding the holds that didn't have the tape!
Aug 20, 2004
Yeah it's a shame. Because of people making points rather than bolting with some ethics in mind we now have fifteen (!!!!) bolts covering a piece of rock that should have three at most. Nice work, guys.
Aug 20, 2004
It's a shame, quality should be the issue.
Aug 20, 2004
I'm with Crusher. I can understand Alan replacing the bolts on LJBS, but this is no route. When I climbed it (on TR) I stemmed left at about #5, duh, a full 18" away. The red tape must have fallen off. The stylistically confused can just climb the obvious link-up "Little John Made Marian," which catches the only good climbing on either Stick at the headwall.
Aug 20, 2004
Crusher, When I climbed Little John's Big Stick (on gear) and Tony Bubb's Little Stick (clipping bolts) last week, I climbed two independent lines to the top of the detached pillar. My honest assessment of TBLS is that it is: a. A squeeze job. b. Contrived. c. Climbable without using holds on LJBS to the top of the pillar. d. Fun climbing You may give it a bomb rating because of a. and b., but I give it one star because of c. and d. I'm pretty sure that most folks who gave the route a bomb rating in the earlier incarnation of this route description had not climbed the route, but were reacting to what they thought was a direct replacement of the bolts on LJBS.
Aug 19, 2004
This is not a new route. This is rebolting Little Johns's Stick, but the new bolts are now a bit further away, like five feet right. The person who rebolted this should have explained what they did, and why, not invent some new line three or four feet to the right of the LJBS dihedral. I climbed this last week, without any knowledge of the vast archive of postings about LJBS. Placing the new bolts an arm's reach away from the LJBS dihedral is a tasteful way of resolving this rebolting issue, so the bolts are not right in your face if you choose to climb the dihedral on gear, but this is a terrible way of posting the information. It's puzzling to see folks posting nice comments as if this really was a nice addition to the crag. It's sad to see folks removing all the highly critical comments that were posted here a few days ago (if a dozen "bomb" ratings all posted in a couple days are not a consensus about a route's worth, I don't know what is). Please remove this non-route from the database.
Aug 19, 2004
It is contrived but the moves are fun nonetheless.
Aug 14, 2004
Sounds contrived.
Aug 14, 2004
Fun moves up the thin face between Little John's Big Stick and Maid Marian. There's a 10d crux moving from the 4th to 5th bolts and another hard move at the 6th bolt. It's possible to climb the route at an easier grade by stemming the corner on LJBS, but for full value, avoid the corner and stick to the face. The bolts on this route are well to the right of the bolts that were removed from LJBS, so this really is a new and independent climb.
Aug 13, 2004
- Tuckered and Fried
- Short Cliff w/ Three Cracks
- B-Line For The Tree Line
- Catalyst
Too short for 2 stars IMHO. Worth doing though if you're there.
Sep 10, 2004
- Far Left
Of the four cracks here this is the least fun, but you might as well do it if doing the other cracks.
Oct 25, 2013
- Get Over Yourself
- Hesitation
Great Lead. Scary and thought provoking. Bring small to medium stoppers for the finger crack. Place your gear and move quickly.
Jul 31, 2002
Great climb - I love this cliff...have only toproped, but it looks great for trad also. Three great cracks and lots of varied face climbing above. I submitted a pic with the four cracks numbered and a larger version of the same (147,148).
Jan 1, 2001
- It's Just Rock Climbing
- Mirage
- Reach for It
- Sleeping Beauty
- Ledge One
- Into the Mystic
A fun route that seemed a little harder than 10a. Bring a #.75 or #1 Camalot sized piece to anchor the belayer; the starting ledge is exposed and it's a dicey move to the first clip. The crux is a difficult mantel past the third bolt. The route is 95' long.
Oct 25, 2003
Pretty solid, fun route. The mantle moves are sick!
Sep 8, 2013
Nice route and thought the rock was generally good though the route was a little dirty getting to ledge 2. Getting to the first bolt is not trivial and the mantle move is more difficult if you are tall. Very much worth doing. I'd give it more than 1 star and a rating of 9-10a. Beware of loose rock. A party before us knocked down a rock the size of a basketball as the second came up to ledge 2- it surely would have killed someone if it had hit them.
Sep 28, 2008
OK route on OK stone. Better to climb up to ledge two than to hike it though- more fun than the trail.
Aug 5, 2006
The step onto the pedestal at the third bolt is done more easily by stemming off the left wall. Excellent climbing past the first four bolts, but it eases significantly from there to the anchors.
Sep 12, 2004
- Mystical Melange
- Tom Dennis
- Lost Highway Area
- Avalon World AKA Chong's Biway
- Cheech and Choss
Ain't no block too big to trundle. That thing needs to go!
Sep 10, 2017
- Choss Boss
It's also possible to traverse left from the anchors on Cheech and Choss and climb into the second pitch of Lost Highway at 5.7 R.
Jul 21, 2017
- Cross Your Mind
Among the best low 12s in the canyon. Quite straightforward actually. Nice job cutting that diamond, Todd!
Sep 10, 2017
Fun holds and great cryptic crux. Nice work!
Oct 22, 2016
- Heavy Duty AKA Moss Highway
This route currently has a red project tag on the first bolt. I'll remove it next time I'm up there.
Jul 18, 2017
- Lost Highway
A few weeks ago I found a wrist watch at the base of this route. I'm trying to find his owner. Describe it, and I'll find a way to return it to you. Cheers, Daniele
Nov 11, 2016
On P3, instead of swinging left to avoid the roofs, you can clip the last bolt prior to them and then go directly upward on underclings and kneebars over the roof and to the anchor. You skip the 2nd to last and perhaps last bolt this way, but it's very good climbing and not runout. It is probably a shave harder than the given 10c grade. Maybe 10d/11a?
Aug 30, 2016
When you get to this climb, turn and look across the canyon. You will see Animal World, a clean and challenging crag. That is where you should've gone, hahaha. Unless you like smearing lichen and crimping moss. If you do find yourself in need of a dirty adventure, bring screwlinks and place them on the bolts at the second belay (there are no rap rings here, but there should be, as it is the most sensible way to rap...from the top, to the second belay, to the ground...with a 60m).
Apr 17, 2012
I really liked this route: fun, interesting climbing from bottom to top, in a spot isolated from other routes on the cliff. Some dirty rock doesn't detract from the quality of the moves. We stashed our gear at the start of Arcanum (just right of the one-bolt belay anchor by "Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid"), then scrambled about 100' right toward a tall pine tree visible on the skyline. The rappel bolts to access the route aren't visible until you top the pillar just left of this tree. An 85' rappel got us to the big terrace below the route. I wouldn't recommend rappelling in from the top of the route, unless you just wanted to do the last pitch or the Orgasmatron finish (11b). We rebuilt the small cairn marking the top, but it's hard to see from a distance. Also, there are no rap rings on the anchors atop the first and second pitches. Ivan's beta is excellent, as usual. The first pitch starts with some steep bulges that felt 5.9 to me, but were much harder for my shorter partner. Then fun stemming moves that seemed about 10a. I followed Ivan's advice and ran the first two pitches together; this was a good idea.The climbing in this section included a neat quartz crystal band and a clean arete and slab - 5.7 or 5.8. Bring a few longer runners to keep down rope drag. The final pitch was outstanding: thin stemming moves up a steep corner, somewhat reminiscent of Over the Hill; I'd call it 10b or 10c.I felt comfortable with the bolts for pro; I brought some wired nuts but didn't use them. The 5.8 friction slab after the corner was fun as well. After scrambling to the top of the rock and going a bit left, look down left for a big cairn marking the traverse to the anchors atop Arcanum. Two rappels (85' and 90') with a 60m rope got us back to our gear. Check out this route if you're looking for an "adventure sport climb".
Aug 24, 2004
- Lost Your Mind
- Orgasmatron
- Sleepwalkin'
- Sweeping Beauty
- Wizard of Moss , The
- Main Wall
- Aerial Boundaries
Really nice route. The 4th clip over the lip is not that easy to make. Consider putting a draw on that bolt and perhaps a long sling - one can yard on the draw and then step in the sling to reach the jug hold above. Without the long sling you have to make a 10 slab move to reach the jug. I really didn't feel much at all to grab onto above the lip to try the route free. I wonder if anything has broken off in the last 9 years?
Sep 28, 2008
The information in Rossiter's guidebook is incorrect; Moe Hershoff may have toproped the line free, but he did not lead it, according to Moe himself. The first free lead of the route was by Bob D'Antonio in 1999.
Oct 8, 2007
Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guide lists Moe Hershoff as the "redpoint" in 1998. Is that incorrect? Should the rating be changed to be the free rating, since it has been listed as such since the 1999 guidebook.
Sep 20, 2007
Yeah, but I had to pull real hard on that draw.
Jun 18, 2007
The 10a layback up a ramp past the 3rd bolt leaves you in a tenuous position to make the 4th clip. My partner, who is 5'5", didn't think she could reach the clip if she were leading. The next move is the 12a/b crux (A0 if you yard on the draw). Shorter climbers be forewarned. There's a great belay ledge at the top of the climb; bring your partner up and enjoy the view before you rappel back down.
Aug 17, 2005
- Arcanum
I looked up the definition of "arcanum" and found this: "1. mysterious or specialized knowledge, language, or information accessible or possessed only by the initiateusually used in plural."
Aug 17, 2009
Tony, Thank you for cleaning the route!!! We have had some rain this summer. It has shut us down on many occasions. Congratulations on your new routes. Pebby Johns
Sep 11, 2006
The route is closer to 180' as the comment and 2-pitch text beta above and NOT 130', as in the route description headers. It is a good as a single pitch though, with proper use of slings. The station at 1/2 way down makes it a single rope route, with 2 raps. We re-cleaned this route on 8/5/06 and cleaned it hard. Removed some loose flakes, moss and dirt. The dust has not quite cleared, but the rain today should take care of that, and the route is better now.
Aug 5, 2006
A fun route. Two cruxes on the first pitch: at the start of the steep crack, and at an overhang near the top of the crack. Be sure to finish the pitch in a right-facing corner with a bolt; don't angle left or you'll wind up on Sunshine Makes Me Paranoid. The entire climb can be done as one 180' pitch, avoiding a tiny belay stance at the top of the first pitch. If you do this, be sure to work out rope signals with your partner, since you won't be able to hear each other.
Aug 30, 2004
Nice route with a trad crux. .10a seems about right. Ivan's gear recommendations are spot on -- but if you don't have a double set of Aliens, a single set complemented by #6-#8 Stoppers and a 0.5 Technical Friend should do the trick. Cams larger than a 2 1/2 Friend are unnecessary. On the other hand, test the 2"x24", decomposing vertical flake in the crack below the last roof carefully. It's an attractive hold but felt loose to me.
Aug 6, 2004
- Crack of Dawn
Did this again, clean this time, barely, despite having a human belayer and knowing the moves. If there was a decent foot hold to rest on at the crux, this would be 5.9 for me (but see Bruce's disagreement regarding the approach crack). As it is, there's a thin edge for one foot and a rattly jam as you clip the bolt and lean out. If you're extra cool, you could place the high gear and clip the bolt, then downclimb a body length to think about it. Compared to other 10s on this crag, this is one of the hardest to onsight in my opinion (having onsighted all of the others, and half of those self-belayed).
Aug 21, 2006
I don't know, Ivan ... I think I used the foothold you described (a small triangular edge where the crack intersects the little overhang at the base of the corner), but, at 5'11", my skinny hands were rattling around in the crack, not jamming. I didn't reach good handholds until I stemmed up to the roof and began the traverse. And my 5'3" wife -- who has really small hands -- was totally flummoxed by the corner. I certainly agree that bomber hand jams would knock 2 or 3 letter grades off my very subjective .10d-.11a rating -- so .10b may be an accurate rating for the hypothetical "average climber." Caveat emptor, I guess.
Sep 20, 2004
Bruce, I think you did miss something. There's a foothold at the bottom of the crack that's hard to see unless you lean out. Stepping on that allows you to reach the bomber hand jams. But maybe you're shorter or, as you said, your hands are smaller, so that was harder. I self-belayed so no way is it hard 10 or 11a for me. Easy 10 trad or mid to hard 10 sport is my limit self-belaying. As for gear, the gear list I posted matches what you say more or less: double in 0.75 to #3 Camalot, #3.5 Camalot, #4 Camalot (could do without).. The "could do without" refers to the #4 Camalot. By making the first move in the crux crack you can place a hand-sized cam above the wide spot. In any case, when I did it, the top of the crack was wet, and I was unable (more like unwilling) to cleanly clip the bolt and make the reach out to the bucket. That part was the crux for me.
Sep 19, 2004
Maybe my crack-climbing technique has atrophied, maybe my hands are smaller than Ivan's, or maybe I just missed something -- but the hanging corner below the traverse to the first bolt felt awfully hard for .10b (i.e., more like .10d or .11a). I couldn't find the "inobvious footholds" and had to stem from ripples on the left wall to smears on the right wall. Decent jams were in short supply as well. Fortunately, I was able to get a bomber #4 Friend in the roof capping the corner and then clip the first bolt before committing to the (easier) "crux" traverse. Ivan's gear recommendations may be a little conservative too. I'd call a #4 Camalot, a #3.5 Friend, and a #4 Friend mandatory for the corner -- and two #3 Friends (or a #3 and a #3.5) advisable for the wide section 10' or so below the second bolt
Sep 18, 2004
I went back and did the second pitch of this as a continuation of Immaculate Deception. It's worth doing, with several 5.8 or 9 moves at the first 2 bolts, and then easier to the top.
Aug 29, 2004
- Eight Miles High
Rather airy and scary, maybe because it was dark, licheny, wet, and close to Halloween. I missed the bolt above my head on the traverse left. The rope got totally stuff on lowering, as I descended the left side of the arête, and then had to reclimb the crux section to free it.
Oct 8, 2015
Fun climb with good movement. Crux was a little reachy as I am short but still totally do-able. If you can get past the fear of the airy traverse, I would recommend NOT clipping the 6th bolt. Even with a long sling, the rope drag made for a tougher than necessary lead.
Oct 31, 2010
I backed off the arete move on sight - Strappo flashed it. A beautiful pitch with an exciting finish, but harder than 10a. We lowered through the belay with a 70m rope with no problem.
Sep 7, 2008
Greg Miller led this all trad yesterday. The only excitement is the last slab move which is above a micro cam that's a few feet below your feet. I then led it clipping the last 2 bolts. The arete move turned out to be much easier than I remembered, so I could have easily done it with just the last bolt. The arete move is protected by a fair micro cam, #00 TCU or purple Alien, with back up about 4 feet below. No gear for the first 30' or so off the ground, but it's easy.
Jun 2, 2007
Kevin, The route to the right of Mind Bender is Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid. Great climb; do it the next time you're up at Sleeping Beauty. How did you get across the creek?
May 28, 2006
This route has some nice moves on the arete. I didn't put a long sling on the sixth bolt; this bolt looks like it's exclusively for the route "Mind Bender, although clipping it might make the traverse move less worrisome. I didn't need any gear on the rest of the route, but I'm tall so perhaps the clips were easier. I wouldn't recommend the second pitch. It's short, slabby, and covered in lichen. However, if you do the second pitch, and belay from the tree, you can walk a bit to (climber's) right and rap off those anchors down to the Mind Bender pitch-1 anchors and reach the ground safely from there. Rapping straight from the first-pitch anchors of Eight Miles could be problematic. There is another route that starts about 6' to the right of Eight Miles High. Maybe someone set up a new start for Mind Bender so that it no longer shares any bolts with Eight Miles High?
May 28, 2006
Just want to reiterate Ivan's comment about lowering with a 60m rope. If you do this, be sure the belayer is tied in to the end of the rope; the belayer will have to climb up a bit to get the leader all the way down. Letting the end of the rope slip through the belay device would likely have fatal consequences for the leader. Better to use a 70m rope if you're lowering, or belay from the top and get down via a 100' rappel. I carefully inspected the left side of the arete, and did not find any usable footholds. My partner and I did the crux move the same way: grab a protrusion on the arete with the left hand, and high-step the left foot onto a sloping foothold right on the arete.
Aug 30, 2004
Ivan Rezucha wrote: "At the crux, did you step around to the left side of the arete? There's a good hold there. I'm pretty sure I leaned left and stepped up with my right foot." No, I didn't. I used a knob on the arete for my left hand, and high-stepped with my left foot onto the arete. My partner did it the same way. I'll have to try it your way next time; it has to be easier than what we did!
Oct 25, 2003
Ron, Yes the crux is exciting, but the 100' of climbing leading to it is easy and not that interesting, although not unpleasant. At the crux, did you step around to the left side of the arete? There's a good hold there. I'm pretty sure I leaned left and stepped up with my right foot. As for lowering off, I was self-belaying, and so tied off the rope at the anchor and rapped the free end. As you say, it's probably not a good idea to lower off, and a 60m rope won't reach without the belayer climbing up a bit.Ivan
Oct 25, 2003
An airy and exciting route. The crux is a pumpy, committing high-step layback on the arete; my partner and I felt it was more like 10b or 10c than 10a. The move is definitely harder if you're short. I clipped an 11th bolt to the left at the top, but it may have been on another route (The Wave). Bring up your partner and rap 100' back to the start. We didn't do the second pitch; it looked very easy and uninteresting.
Oct 25, 2003
Now THAT takes guts. Good on you, man.
Oct 20, 2003
I would like to comment on the superfluous bolts just right of the initial crack. As you may know, I have cleaned, set up and led hundreds of new routes along the Front Range in Colorado. It has never been my practice to bolt usable cracks. Looking back at this route now, I don't know what the hell I was thinking. If these bolts are offensive to most people I will be happy to remove them myself. Have fun and be safe. Richard Rossiter
Oct 19, 2003
- Immaculate Deception
Greg Miller onsighted the direct start yesterday all trad. The gear was very good. Blue Alien to .75 Camalot. The cams in the vertical crack are good straight down. You can get a directional below the crack which, if clipped short, keeps the rope from pulling out on the cams above. There's a very good small cam in the flake on the right, and bigger cams in the overlap.
Jun 2, 2007
The direct variation is short and most of it is easy, but the remaining four meters are very worthwhile. Quite closely bolted, but I'm not complaining. I used yet another sequence from the ones described above. The rest of the climb, above the intermediate anchors, did not look worth bothering with.
Sep 14, 2006
Solid 11d. Hint: layback the other direction from what is shown in the action photo. Cheers, bob
Aug 30, 2004
A decent route with a height-dependent crux. The move straight up from the bolt at the crux bulge has poor hands. I tried several times but couldn't make it work.This felt like hard 5.11. I finally went left about five feet, stepped up and grabbed a thin flake, then laybacked up and right. At 6'1", this felt about 5.10a. My shorter partners couldn't make the reach to do the move this way, and ultimately had to aid the move. The direct start, up a flared finger crack and over a roof, is strenuous and difficult. I attempted it on a top rope, but couldn't do the crux move. I'd guess it's 11c or 11d.
Aug 30, 2004
- Kama Sutra
Some traffic would be really nice on this one. As it is now, it isn't bad, but it would be one of the better pitches in the canyon at the grade if it cleaned up a bit. Cruiser hand crack roof, fun bit of wider climbing at the top, what more could you ask for? And there is no way this thing is any harder than 9+ at the absolute most. IMO, the lower hand crack felt 5.9, maybe 9+ if you can't jam hand cracks, the wider section 5.8ish. My hands are slightly smaller than average for whatever that's worth.
Oct 8, 2015
A great crack route in BoCan. We linked this in one pitch with a 70m. Five ten... 10a... who knows...? It was a fun romp nonetheless!!! Wide section was fun, so not to be missed if at the crag!
Sep 19, 2015
A good climb overall and a great crack climb by Boulder Canyon standards, even if the wide part is a little dirty and wet. I agree with some others that this is more like 5.9+ or maybe 10a.
Jun 26, 2013
Soft. 5.9. locker hand jams down low though
Sep 5, 2012
I give this route 5.9. Bottom part was not 5.10d- cruiser hands. The upper wider part was a bit trickier that warrants a 5.9 rating. Fun and well protected. Not as grungy as it looks.
Aug 25, 2009
I'll have to second Ivan's thoughts here. The bottom felt 10a at hardest, and Pretty solid- I placed gear expecting hard moves, tehn just cruised it. But then I got higher to the wider section and slowed down quite considerably- fighting in and out of the back of that crack for fist-jams. I walked the #3 camalot up because I didn't have anything else bigger than hands with me. One move Felt like 5.9 up there. If I were to do the climb again, I'd take cams from 1/2" to 4" (one each) and a double set of stoppers- this thing EATS large stoppers and I only had 1 set.
Jul 11, 2008
"Assumption is the mother of all fuck ups." Wisdom from PULP FICTION. This 4-foot-tall tree was removed because it was totally in your face at the top of the off-width, totally wrapped around you at the only possible belay and was being slowly destroyed by people belaying and climbing the second pitch. I could not stand to see the slow mutilation of this ill-fated Douglas fir. Perhaps you can think of it as a mercy killing. For the record, I dearly love trees. THE MEMORY OF TREES. THE TREE OF LIFE. In their own way, trees are better things than any animal or human that ever walked the face of the earth. When is the last time you were attacked or robbed by a tree? Do you have locks on your doors because trees exist?
Oct 4, 2006
Why cut the tree down to place the new convenience anchors at the top of P1? The tree is clearly visible in Ron's beta photo. What remains now is a 6" stump, 4-6" in diameter. I assume it was cut to make pulling the rope easier, but as there is another descent that has worked just fine for the 8 years this climb has existed, the tree should not have been chopped.
Oct 1, 2006
Ben, The variant you did is a new route by Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns called The Tree of Life.
Sep 19, 2006
It seems that there is a 3rd variant. Realizing that my rack would not afford me any protection in the wide section, I traversed right past a lone bolt just below it and up a crack on the right. It was quite fun, well protected and not too dirty.
Sep 19, 2006
There has been extensive work done recently on this spectacular crack. Along with the trail work to the approach being done, there are now new anchors at the tops of the first and second pitches. The new anchors on the first pitch are even with the anchors on Lightspeed. This pitch is about 75 ft. long. The finger crack on the left has also been cleaned (again) and offers an excellent alternative to the off-width. The second pitch has been cleaned to open the crack for solid jams and placements. This pitch is about 100 ft. long. The route is high quality in excellent rock and deserved the attention given to it over the last couple of weeks (inspite of the adverse weather conditions at times). Kama Sutra is wholly deserving of three stars !!! Pebby Johns
Aug 29, 2006
After the many happy hands and feet that have scrapped up this fine climb; we can safely say this is barely 5.10, including the traverse left to avoid the angry wide section.
Sep 30, 2004
Just make sure when you throw a rope over the edge of a cliff, you let the climbers below you know that a rope is coming...i.e. yell "ROPE!" , and maybe wait a few questions for a "CLEAR!".....even if you think no one is below you.
Sep 14, 2004
A long, excellent crack climb. A few burly hand jams through the roof, and an awkward wide section a little higher were the main difficulties. My partners with smaller hands (and shorter reach) found the roof difficult. The long, angling finger crack at the top was also fun. You can rappel with two ropes back to the ledge at the start. Rappel straight down Aerial Boundaries; don't angle the rappel back toward the start of the climb, or you risk getting a rope stuck on a ledge with loose blocks after you pull it.
Sep 12, 2004
- Lightspeed
Climbed this yesterday with Joe Chorny. We both managed to lead it without incident. I'd have to agree with others that this route is not really 11a but mid 10. Perhaps new sport 11a which is really most of 1 grade lower. The lower roof pullover is harder if you are tall. I found that cruxes of several routes at this crag were tougher if you were tall (Lightspeed, Mystic Mile (both pitches), Into the Mystic). So shorter folks make sure to give this crag a visit!
Sep 28, 2008
Short with low awkward crux. Might be 5.10d, might be 5.9+. Just awkward. Meh... If it were at any gym, they'd rate it 10+ I guess.
Jul 11, 2008
Awkward crux move gettin' over the bulge followed by nondescript and wandering face climbing. One star at best and nowhere close to 5.11-, a, or anything else.
May 27, 2008
I agree w/ Ivan.
Sep 14, 2006
I thought this was a nice route with several interesting moves with the most interesting being the crux roof at the start. I did the heel hook and think it's probably the best method, though it's a burly move getting your hips up over your feet. Some might call the initial move harder than 5.11a, but I suppose it depends on your burl factor. Update: I did this again in '09, and it felt more like 5.10 since I knew about the heel hook.
May 28, 2006
This route rules Boulder Canyon! The two-pitch combo with Aerial Boundaries makes a great combo with lots of fun climbing. Couldn't stop giggling through the whole thing. Nice call Dana.
Aug 4, 2004
There's really just 2 moves on this. One over the roof and one moving left higher up. I guess I still am comparing these one pitch (half rope length) nondescript sport climbs against the multiplitch Eldo, Lumpy and Park classics. Compared to those, this is one star at most. It's another discussion as to how the quallity ratings on this website should be applied. By rock (e.g., Sleeping Beauty), by area (e.g., Boulder Canyon), by style (e.g., sport vs. trad vs alpine), or by entire website (the original thought, I think). I consider a 3 star climb something I aspire to doing, something to dream about, if I haven't done it already. This climb, Lightspeed, is just one of very many similar climbs. Maybe you can tell that I'm a trad climber at heart.
Jul 30, 2004
Yup, the horn sure does flex when you crank over the crux roof. Be careful up there. The roof coupled with the nice, sustained .10 something face climbing from the crux to the 7th bolt merits at least two stars.
Jul 30, 2004
This route is awesome! Excellent rock w/ excellent movement. The horn at the crux flexes a little and may rip off in someone's face someday. Nonetheless, this climb deserves 3-stars. It is easy to combine this pitch w/ Aerial Boundaries for a fun 2-pitch sport route. You can also do 2 raps w/ a 60M rope to get down. Rap from the achors on Aerial to the anchors on Lightspeed, which are ~15 ft higher (and to climber's right) than the anchors at the start to Aerial.
Jul 29, 2004
- MLK
Challenging OS! we intended to climb Wings and wound up on MLK unknowingly. Started on Wings, skipped the 4th bolt, and went straight up on the steep slab to the 5th (?) bolt for MLK and finished straight up. The crux is thin and will test your footwork/creativity/tenacity. We lowered on a chopped 70m rope that got us to the ground with a few meters to spare. Our cord is probably <60m.
Oct 23, 2016
If you are below 6', the moves are going to be proportionally harder here and there. If you are below 6', several of the clips are going to be even more proportionally difficult. If you are anything between 5'0 and 6'6", however, the ledge fall from the crux headwall onto the flake/ledge is pretty much (if not precisely) the same... and if you are short, you'll likely blow the clip and fall from up there with that much more rope out. Ditto the above for me. I was one more person trying to do Wings of Desire and getting suckered directly up on this one. Felt pretty hard for 11b. I'm not sure if it is 12a or not, what I can say is that it stays insecure for quite a while, and that adds up to something. You just have to stay on the whole time and focus, I guess. I didn't manage the OS, so yeah, my ankle and wrist are sore. Like I said, the ledge fall is the same for everyone. BTW - a rack from 1.25 to 3" cams might inspire more confidence on this route for shorter climbers in a few spots where there is some space between bolts, and then you can't reach from the good stances besides.
Jul 24, 2016
My intent on Labor Day was to first climb "Wings Of Desire". After climbing the start of that line to its 5th bolt on a sloping shelf, I clipped a 6th bolt only a few feet away up right. Then I continued straight up the face. I got to hard moves at the 11th bolt and fell off a couple times before dogging to the anchor. I thought this is desperate for 5.11b. My partner had a similar go. We then realized that we were on "MLK". It is possible and recommended to start with "Wings Of Desire" to climb "MLK" with just quickdraws for bolts. In fact, looking up from the base of "Wings" the obvious direct line up the face is the upper part of "MLK". "Wings Of Desire" goes left at 5th bolt up easy run-out terrain. "MLK" climbs straight up a left-facing corner to a good ledge. Then up the face along a precarious, detached flake its top. From here, climb a steep slab face passing a tiny roof. Some exciting climbing! 14 bolts / ring anchor (with "Wings" start). This is an excellent climb with bolts in the right place. Good job, Bob, on the route but not so good on the info in your guidebook. If you do the crack start of "MLK", it seems like the obvious line is to join "Wings" at its 4th bolt on a sloping shelf & continue up to its 5th bolt, then continuing straight up "MLK".
Oct 16, 2012
Basically what Goldstein said, other than recommending the Wings of Desire start (which blows). The route wanders too much to be great, hard to avoid rope drag, as the rope wants to run behind some flakes. Several dicey clips up high. Some nice rock on it, but also some crappy rock and lichen.
Sep 13, 2010
Rapping w/ a 60m rope got me to the 2nd bolt. The lower part of this climb seemed like a moss fest so you're probably better off starting w/ Wings of Desire. The upper part is probably great if you're a true slabmaster (pure smearing w/ minute sloper "hands") -- I found it much harder than Mind Bender & aided it. Also, there is a somewhat scary move getting to the crux, mantling above a vertical flake which you could fall onto if you blow the move; the clip after this move was also pretty dicey @ 5'7".
Sep 14, 2006
- Mind Bender
Good job to Vaino and Bob. Tony is correct, though. When I first led this climb with Serena Benson in 1999, the wall was still streaked with rock powder from my old Bosch hammer drill. Dirt and lichen yet obscured critical holds. I couldn't quite pull the final mantle and so responsibly graded the route 12a A0. I never went back until recent times. The route has cleaned up very well over the past 7 years and is a real beauty of a face climb. I find the final moves to be quite demanding, and I still grade the route 12a. I experienced the same situation on the FA of Aerial Boundaries with Moe Hershof and Leah Macaluso, 1998. This is another exceptional face climb and a very difficult one to do all free. Though the crux is really a single move, it is not easily passed. Most folks clip the bolt and yard off the quickdraw. Kudos to Bob D. for getting it right.
Sep 18, 2006
I agree w/ Tony about the rating. The headwall is quality climbing, but it is considerably easier than the direct start of Immaculate Deception (not to mention the crux of MLK). Call it 11c, and it's still pretty easy in the grade.
Sep 14, 2006
Good rock and good route. The bolts through the crux are darn close together, but they were thoughtfully placed. The route still has a few moves left in it after the crux, too. I think it may have been over graded though- perhaps the horizontal crack and sidepulls through the crux have cleaned up. Regardless, 5.11c or 5.11d seems more appropriate.
Aug 5, 2006
Very nice, sustained at the top. BobL
Aug 16, 2004
- Mystic Mile
Recommended to have your belayer tether themselves to the tree with a 10-12' runner, in order to be able to see the leader throughout the first pitch. On Sunday, I fell at the second to last bolt, and ended up taking a 30+ foot whipper due to 1) miscommunication, 2) the belayer assuming I was pulling rope for a clip, and 3) the belayer not seeing that I was going up and down on the same move several times. Ended up bruising my foot severely, hobbling down the hill, and across the river!
May 20, 2014
The potential exists for a nasty fall without a yellow Alien between bolts 2 and 3.
Aug 13, 2012
Would have to agree w/ David, this gets the 3rd star if done as one long pitch.
Aug 15, 2010
Really nice route - probably the best quality route there. I found both pitches to be harder for a tall (6 ft 2") person. The tower roof was especially awkward. 5.10c seems like a reasonable grade for P1. The 2nd pitch is probably 9 for a shorter person and 10a for a taller person.
Sep 28, 2008
Take long runners and do it a single pitch.
Jul 11, 2008
I thought the 2nd pitch was the best of several we did at this cliff. Neither pitch is exceptional, but together they add up to three stars.
Sep 14, 2006
Great route! The first time I climbed this route, my buddy Brent and I were amazed that we were the only ones on the wall. Animal World was swarming with people, and we had all of Sleeping Beauty to ourselves. I can't believe that there isn't a line at the bottom of this route on the weekends. The crux of the route is a mantel over a roof. The move is outrageous!!! It's not harder than 5.10+ (once you figure out how to do it), but you will probably find yourself laughing your ass off when you do it (like Brent and I were), or you'll be cursing Rossiter for grading the pitch 10c. Climbing "Into the Mystic" and then this route make for 3 excellent pitches of climbing. "Into the Mystic" hits the 2nd ledge 10 ft right of "Mystic Mile." As a side note, the picture above has the anchors too low. They are actually where the #2 is in the picture. To climb "The Wave" traverse straight right from the anchors in the middle of "Mystic Mile." I'm pretty sure that "The Wave" has a manufactured hold on it, but I'm not an expert on the subject (looked pretty suspicious). I'm also pretty sure that "The Wave" isn't 10a. It's MUCH harder than "Mystic Mile."
Jul 29, 2004
- Prince Charmer
Has cleaned up quite a bit. The gear is reasonable. A light rack to 3". 1st and 3rd bolts would be for want of longer slings. Anchors at the top are 5' too high and thus across a long edge. Belay up top and rap, lowering is hard on the ropes. A 60m should get you down OK.
Jul 28, 2016
Worth doing. Two crux moves on it are harder than 5.9, the start/corner is mossy and has lichen, but indeed can be avoided on right. The way I did it, after the crack, join the bolts on the route to the right, but is quite a hard move onto the face. Maybe not if you are very tall.
Jun 30, 2011
I enjoyed this climb, and it climbed better than I expected. Yes, the bottom 1/4 is dirty, but not enough to bother me. I was, not having read the beta, expecting a sport climb having climbed past the first and second bolts when doing the girdle a couple of years ago, but it climbs more like a trad climb. Fun stemming with trad gear to start (you can bypass that out right on the arete). A couple of interesting moves past two bolts over a bulge to access the arete. An easy trad hand crack (bring a red or gold Camalot), and then a puzzling move at another bolt to gain the slab. After a few minutes here, I went straight right then up, and it was easy, 5.9 at the most. Easy slab to the top. It seems like it joins the last couple of bolts of Aerials Boundaries. Is that true? Or did I miss other bolts further left?
Aug 21, 2006
Some good moves past the first two bolts, but the climb is so dirty with moss, lichen and grunge that it's really not worth doing. The dicey move past the third bolt is much harder than 9+; perhaps a hold broke? Seemed more like 10c to me. If you're in the area, do Aerial Boundaries, Black Rain, and Jungle of Stone; don't bother with Prince Charmer.
Jul 17, 2004
- Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid
Mark Roth. Report bad bolts here: boulderclimbers.org/what-do… and they will get replaced by one of our volunteers. Support the BCC when you can. Although we do provide volunteers with only top-quality hardware (Climbtech 316-series stainless steel), the bolts are not free!
Oct 8, 2015
I wouldn't climb this until the anchor can be replaced! Both studs are falling out....
Oct 7, 2015
Nut on the bolt below the roof is loose.
May 30, 2011
I think the bolts on this route are spaced for a tall person. I found I would climb to a bolt, clip it, and have some very easy climbing. Then there would be a harder move right before the next bolt, so all the potential falls were long, and some had ledge fall potential. The bolt at the crux is a very long reach. If you wait to clip it until after you do the move, then you have the potential of breaking your ankles if you blow the crux. I enjoyed the climb, maybe if I were 5'10" or taller I wouldn't be bothered by the bolts, but it just seemed to me that if several of the bolts were 6" lower, the climb would be far more mellow... but people like spice, right?
Aug 16, 2010
Good climb. Tied with Mind Bender for the best route I have done there. The grade is probably height-dependent, going right at the bulge into the horizontal. A short climber would lose their good feet before matching hands in it. You can continue on ??? for a 180' climb by clipping one bolt at the belay and going up and slightly left past a few bolts for 80 or 90 more feet to the top; belay on a tree at the edge or set a directional on this and head right to the 2nd pitch top-anchor of 'Arcanum'. Two 1-rope raps (60M OR LONGER) will get you down.
Aug 5, 2006
This is the only route with a one-bolt anchor at the base, although the start may be confusing. There are two bolts visible 8-10 feet up, you want to go towards the right one. This all sorts itself out once you start up, but from the ground I was confused. I was pleasantly surprised at how fun this route was, from the start it looked iffy, but is well worthwhile. My shorter partner found the moves under the roof pretty reachy, and hard a harder time than I did. This climb is interesting the entire time, up to the second you clip the anchor.
Sep 14, 2004
I went back and climbed this route again, this time doing the correct finish. It is an excellent climb, one of the best I've done on Sleeping Beauty.There are 9 bolts on the pitch. Here's how I would describe the climb: Climb a low-angle slab and a steep corner below a roof. Clip the fourth bolt and make a committing traverse right under the roof to good holds above the lip. Clip the fifth bolt and surmount the roof (10b) to a stance. Step right and climb steep rock past two more bolts. Angle slightly left to the 8th bolt in a short, leaning, left-facing corner. Swing right around the arete (10c), clip the final bolt, and continue up and left to the anchor. In my earlier ascent, I angled right at the 7th bolt instead of left; this put me on Arcanum. If you go to Sleeping Beauty, be sure to do this route!
Aug 26, 2004
I guess I was confused by the route description, which said to "continue up on good holds to a short corner then swing right and then straight up to the anchor." This led me to the anchor on Arcanum, which is up to the right at the top of a short corner. The party I saw that went to the proper anchor went a little left at the top, not right. Perhaps, the route description could be clarified a bit.
Aug 24, 2004
An interesting route with an exciting crux. The traverse right under the roof is committing and airy. I found the clip over the roof to be a bit pumpy, with OK but not great handholds. Move a little left to reach a good high hold after the clip. Above, angle right to do the standard finish to an anchor shared with Arcanum. It's also possible to move left and finish on Mind Bender, as we saw done by another party. I counted 9 bolts on the pitch, which is about 95' long. You can belay from a small stance at the anchor if you want to do the second pitch of Arcanum (5.8 to 5.9) to the top of the rock, or lower with a 60m rope back to the start. If you do the Arcanum finish, bring a red Alien to protect the move to the second bolt, and bring a wired nut to thread the top bolt which is missing a hanger. Sleeping Beauty has a neat summit with great views; you should make it up there at least once on your trips to this crag.
Aug 24, 2004
This a great addition to the wall. With more ascents it should clean up nicely. A 60M rope makes it back to the belay bolt with a few feet to spare.
Aug 24, 2004
Bob I must say it's impressive the number of first ascents of quality you have done in this state. Bolts or no bolts. That level of motivation ought to be applauded. Don't let the T Bubbs of the world keep you from posting to this site.
Aug 18, 2004
Good route, I think crux was the smear move right on the slab arete above the roof bit - 10c. bob
Aug 16, 2004
- Tree of Life, The
OK climb, but 1 or 1 1/2 stars rather than 3, when compared to other climbs at Sleeping Beauty. The start (Kama Sutra) is good, the moves right are fun but short, with a difficult gaston foot switch, then much moderate nondescript climbing that shares a short bit with Kama Sutra, then good hard 9 climbing on the upper part of Wings of Desire. I.e., about 6 traversing feet of good new climbing. The description says you come "very near" to Kama Sutra up high, but I actually joined Kama Sutra for about 15' on the lead. On TR, I was able to avoid the KS crack, but only by inches. That seemed silly, grungy, and would be dangerous on the lead. The bolt is somewhat useful, but not much--I didn't clip it. Since I was self-belaying, and rope drag was not an issue, I placed a #3 Camalot at the base of the wide crack on KS, stepped down and across. Soon as you get the good stem you get good gear. On a regular lead, you could do the same thing with a long sling on the left and back cleaning the first piece you place after the traverse. Or you could use double ropes. As for difficulty, maybe 10a by Sleeping Beauty standards (Crack of Dawn is harder), but there are harder 9s in Eldo and Boulder Canyon. I had more difficulty with bolted upper Wings of Desire than with the trad bottom 2/3's. I'm revising downward my estimate of the difficulty of the Kama Sutra start. The main difficult is getting jams with the cams in the way. Otherwise, it's very straightforward. For gear, I carried way too much in the 1" size as per the description. It's not really a finger crack. Singles from finger size up. Doubles in hand-sized (since you'll be leaving a couple at the initial roof). Brass if you plan to avoid the upper part of KS (silly). #3 Camalot if you plan on skipping the bolt (less silly). Plus a set of nuts, mostly big for the several great nut placements.
Oct 1, 2006
- Walk on the Wide Side
Quicklinks are currently installed at the anchor above the 2nd pitch, so it is no longer necessary to use the Immaculate Deception anchor to rappel.
Sep 11, 2017
A good long pitch with sustained and interesting moves. Fun jams up the initial hand crack, enjoyable stemming up the slot, followed by more crack climbing with a wild move past a protruding spike. Some dirty rock and a few minor wet spots, but fun moves throughout. Ivan's gear beta is right on. The second pitch is an easy but enjoyable slab. As Ivan mentions, there are no rap rings on the top anchor, so don't belay here but continue on to the Immaculate Deception anchor.This anchor is hard to see; don't go too far right before heading up. I traversed too far right and wound up at the Crack of Dawn anchor instead.
Aug 30, 2004
- Wave, The
I checked this out after doing P1 of Mystic Mile. I was optimistic until I reached up for what looked like the first finger jam, and it sucked. It might be possible to start on the right wall of the corner using an undercling flake. Looks real hard. 11+? Wonder what happened? Rossiter's ratings elsewhere at Sleeping Beauty are more or less accurate or a bit soft. No sandbags. Could a big hold have broken off?
Sep 10, 2004
I was up there about a month ago, and checked out the start of The Wave after doing Mystic Mile. I clipped the first few bolts, got to the overhanging headwall, and couldn't figure out how to move up, so I backed off. The dihedral to the right is also quite difficult; I backed off that as well. This route is much harder than the 10a listed on Rossiter's website. I have a hand-drawn topo that Rossiter did a few years ago, and it shows an A0 move on the headwall. So I think the route is probably 5.10a A0, or perhaps 5.12. It certainly isn't 5.10a.
Aug 6, 2004
- Wings of Desire
IMHO...the start is fun, the route is great, I saw no groundfall potential whatsoever, the route is 11b as advertised. This is a giant mega-pitch with 80% of the climbing at the grade. Periodic semi-rests, variety of technique. When's the last time you did 160 feet of continuous 11 climbing? We did 2 single rope raps to MLK then ground. BOOOOOYah! LOVE it!
Aug 27, 2017
This route felt really hard to me. Maybe I was missing something, but it felt more like 11d than 11b to me. The section between the 7th and 9th bolt is stupid hard. It is a little dirty on some parts, too. The run-outs aren´t that bad. You could eliminate them by bringing some Aliens with you.
Aug 25, 2013
Words of advice - a single 70 meter rope will NOT get you back to the ground.
Oct 1, 2012
Didn't see the 5th bolt "hidden in a dish" (who the F#$% hides a bolt in a dish?) and found the poorly protected, slippery move up and right pretty scary. After climbing the easy section below, which had bolts every 3 feet (usually with good cracks nearby) the potential groundfall on the slippery crux kind of formed my opinion of this route.
Sep 13, 2010
I thought this was a great, long route with several thin slabby crux moves. Despite the warnings, I too ended up on MLK for a couple of bolts and had to traverse back. To stay on Wings, you have to go through a runout mossy section to an invisible bolt above. Not obvious at all. Take a lot of draws.
Aug 25, 2009
Fun with several hard moves -- mostly high steps -- betwen the 7th bolt and the anchors. Less fun but more exciting if: (1) you get suckered into climbing straight up at the 5th bolt and, after falling off the crux of MLK twice, realize you're off route and have to downclimb to the 5th bolt to continue; and (2) only have one 60m rope and have to rap 40' to the MLK anchors and then 100' to the ledge in a torrential rain and hail storm.
Aug 6, 2004
Great route. Take the advice on using the long runners down low. Found myself yelling at my belayer for slack at the thin crux clip, when really I screwed up!! A little dirty near the top, so watch the feet. Otherwise a great route.
Aug 4, 2004
- South Pillar
- Black Rain
First trip up to Sleeping Beauty. This route was pretty fun with a good amount of 5.9 slab on it. Careful pulling your ropes as they could get hung up in the trees.
Jun 26, 2013
Did this route yesterday with Joe Chorny. The upper crux is between the 6th and 7th bolts and is a little spicy as you make the hardest move with the bolt 2-3 ft below your feet. It almost felt like it was bolted on lead. At least you are going for a good foot and hand to clip from. With a 70 m rope one can lower back to the start with a few feet to spare. The length was given as 130 ft but it must be closer to 115-120 ft.
Sep 28, 2008
60m rope? Better have a long-ish one. 70m for comfort. Nice long pitch, but you have to like smearing to enjoy it. I did, but some don't.
Jul 18, 2008
Indeed, you can rappel with a 60m cord, but if you rap straight down from the anchors to where the climb begins, you'll have to down-climb from just above the first bolt. Be sure to knot the ends of your rope!
Jul 16, 2008
Can rappel with one 60m rope; don't need to do anything tricky, but knot the ends.
Jun 17, 2007
There is a 5.7 layback about 5' above the 6th bolt; you can place a pink tricam and/or a blue/green hybrid Alien to protect this move if you want.
Aug 17, 2005
The climb seemed easier than when I did it last fall. I'd almost say 9+, but I'll leave it at 10a for now. Delicate step-up moves at the third and fourth bolts, and a short layback between the fifth and sixth bolts were the hardest parts. An undercling up a ramp at the second bolt was the most fun. You can rappel back to the start with a 70m rope with about five feet of rope to spare.
Sep 12, 2004
Our party thought the crux was lower down, at the 3rd and 4th bolts, but agree there is one tricky move higher. The upper part is much easier than it looks from below.
Sep 10, 2004
- Jungle of Stone
At the crux bulge there is a big flake about 2 feet right of the main crack. If you use this flake for your right hand, rather than jamming both hands in the crack, you can stem right past the bulge at about 5.8 (maybe even 5.7+) because you can make better use of the good left foot holds in the crack which you can't seem to use properly if you are straight in jamming the crack.
Dec 31, 2005
Consider anchoring the belayer to the tree by the start; the ledge is exposed. Ivan Rezucha said: "This is a good climb on which to practice nut craft. Bring a single set of nuts and a single set of cams. The nut placements are excellent." Sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don't. I didn't place any nuts, but did place several tricams, several Aliens, two #1 and two #2 Camalots, and a #3 Camalot.
Aug 17, 2005
The route has cleaned up nicely since last fall; solid climbing from start to finish. From the anchor, you can rappel back to the start with a 70m rope,with about 5 feet of rope to spare.
Sep 12, 2004
I also agree that this is an excellent route. It looks dirty but climbs clean. Jamming and stemming at about 5.8 lead to the roof. A couple of crux moves pass the roof, and then an insecure move gets you into slab climbing when the crack runs out. I didn't think the pro was scarce at that point. I had a good but shallow medium sized cam. The slab is pretty easy, and you can climb it left of the Black Rain bolts if you want to climb a slightly separate line. This is a good climb on which to practice nut craft. Bring a single set of nuts and a single set of cams. The nut placements are excellent.
Sep 10, 2004
Climbed Jungle of Stone on 6/27/04, and we found it to have cleaned up nicely since Ron's photo of last fall. A quality route, one of several excellent trad cracks on Sleeping Beauty.
Jun 27, 2004
A fun route with a variety of moves: stemming, hand jamming, a roof, and a slabby face. Too bad the route is still quite dirty and mossy in spots (see photo). Two stars for the moves, but downgraded to one star because of the uncleaned rock. The rappel route runs through the middle of four small trees; pull the ropes carefully to avoid a snag. Nice moves, but dirty rock.
Sep 4, 2003
- Sleeping Beauty Girdle
- Water Spirit
Has cleaned up a little, and I put some more effort into that. Would take gear from sm-med stoppers and cams from green Alien - blue Camalot. If you like lots of gear, then double up on cams 1.5-3".
Jul 28, 2016
- Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse), The
- Altoids On the Beach
The book calls this 5.9, but no move was harder than 5.8, so it is correctly graded on here.
Jan 27, 2013
- Baditude
After Leitner & I were done establishing routes, Richard Wright & Alan Nelson established two more lines. I have climbed this route twice, & that's enough. First, the moves to the 2nd bolt aren't nicely protected. What's far worse is climbing on the large, scary, expanding flake up the overhanging section. I don't trust it will always be there.
Mar 16, 2017
Jug haul climbing on holds I trusted just fine.
Aug 29, 2016
- Burning Up The Hillside
This is a really good route for people who can't normally lead 11 but have a little pulling power.
Mar 12, 2002
- Fire Starter
11c finish is a bit unnatural feeling/contrived. You go left out to a jug and then pull awkwardly over the bulge. Didn't see the single bolt that pinched the chain up above there at first and just went back left to the main anchor, which is not much fun.
Aug 29, 2016
- Homesteader, The
This climb has two starts using the same bolts. Left of the first bolt using the jug & thin crack is .11a. Right of the first bolt on the arete is .11d. There are 6 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. The left start is the more common start.
Mar 15, 2017
Unless you are really tall, the first clip on this is hard to reach.
Apr 19, 2014
The lower jug haul on this route is lots of fun, but I am puzzled about how to pull the upper bulge right above the ledge. It seemed quite a bit harder than 11d. What am I missing?
Apr 19, 2010
- Howl Of A Hungry Cat
Although this climb is short, it has really fun moves. A little face climbing, a little crack climbing, a little roof. When I was on this climb yesterday, someone inside the crack in the middle section hissed at me. Maybe a bat?
Apr 19, 2010
- Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob
Mark, Thanks for the info. I have amended the route description with this. As for the grade, This one is likely quite height/reach-dependent. Aside of the general subjectivity of grades overall, I try to fairly account for my rather abnormal wingspan.... "If you can't reach this, then you might also find the opening moves harder than 11-." So I won't quibble a bit about the grade. Thanks for the info.
Mar 16, 2017
First ascent: Mark Rolofson, Ken Trout, Rick Leitner & Chris Alber on Jan. 24, 1998. There are 4 bolts / 2 rings. I never thought it felt as easy as .11a.
Mar 15, 2017
- Kelp Bed Freak Show
- Lady Of The Light
First ascent: Mark Rolofson, Rick Leitner & Rho Green on December 13, 1997. This was the first route on the crag. The climb was named in memory of Elaine Chandler who died on December 5, 1997 from an illness. She was a climber, hang glider, graphic artist. She started the Sport Climbing Connection - a climbing magazine published in the early 1990s. A short easy slab lead past 1st bolt to the overhanging face. The climbing is fun & gets progressively harder with a redpoint crux finish. There are 7 bolts / 2 rings.
Mar 16, 2017
- Lipstick Sunset
Not sure why you would toprope it. The climb is bolted to be a well-protected lead. Much easier to work the moves on lead too. First ascent was on February 7, 1998. It is Rick Leitner who bolted the route. I was the first to redpoint it. Rick send it after me on the same day.
Jul 26, 2017
- Montana Floodgates
- Morning Sunshine
One move wonder yes... but still only 5.4.
Jun 5, 2016
This route really is a one move wonder, but it is a good warm up climb and is good for new leaders. The bolts are very closely spaced at the most difficult parts.
Apr 18, 2014
- Nimby
Mostly positive holds & climbing. Better and more interesting than it looks from the ground.
Jun 5, 2016
I can't believe this is a 5.8. My guidebook says it is 5.5 and it felt 5.6 to me at the most. I rather enjoyed it.
Jan 28, 2013
- Nuns on the Beach
- Sundance
- Tanning Block, The
- Walking On The Sun
Got to say I really like this route. It really overhangs. The 5.12a/b rating was given because there are two ways to go about this climb. It is possible to get an off route rest to the left & clip the 4th bolt. Then, you are forced to climb back right to rejoin the line. This is the 12a version. It has the same crux moves, but the rest makes it easier. Having the 4th bolt already clipped makes it psychologically easier. The cool way (.12b) is the direct version. The crux moves are done above the 3rd bolt. I have to get my left hand on a good lieback edge above the 4th bolt before I can clip it. The obvious, direct version makes for a sustained, short route.
Jul 26, 2017
Good roue with a few thin holds, then a hard long move. Tough climbing but fun.
Jun 5, 2016
To historically clarify this route: Rick and Mark did do the First Ascent, however, John Baldwin led the First Free Ascent, Chris Alber led the 2nd (second) Free Ascent on the same day. Reference: Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Page 53, Item #10, Author, Mark Rolofson.
Apr 17, 2010
- Walking with the Homesteader
- Waves of Rays
Rick & I were responsible for bolting the line, but we were joined by several ladies for the first ascent. F.A.: Rick Leitner, Mark Rolofson, Dianne Barrow, Marget Mestdagh & Claire Mearns on January 18, 1998. One of my favorite 5.10 sport climbs in Boulder Canyon. Cool moves up the slab & a stemming corner lead to a vertical face crux. Perhaps easier to do the crux moving more right & then back left. The interesting slab finish should get your attention. Perfect stone that was clean the first time I touched it. 9 bolts / 2 rings.
Jul 26, 2017
With the bird closures, probably not.
Mar 7, 2002
Is there any legal approach to this crag?
Mar 7, 2002
- Waves on the Beach
First ascent: Dianne Barrow, Mark Rolofson, Rick Leitner, & Chris Alber in January 1998. Gotta love the rating system & the psychology behind it. I climbed this route numerous times, & I'll stick with .11a. Perhaps it can be climbed less direct at the crux. Great pitch with good rock.
Mar 15, 2017
Wow that's quite a downgrade. I was very "tired" when I did it (on a top rope) and thought it was easy for 11a, but 10a doesn't quite right either. Felt a couple notches harder that the 10c (Waves of Rays), so maybe WOR is 5.9? That's possible. Anyway, these routes are OK, nothing special and not worth the hike from a pure climbing perspective, but possibly worthwhile for the scenery.
Nov 15, 2008
The 11a rating is what is given in the book. I think this line is perhaps a number grade easier than that. If you're a 5.10 leader, as I am on a good day, you will feel comfortable on this one.
Nov 28, 2005
- Willie's Wake Up Call Girl
I bolted this line & invited Rick & Chris to climb it with me. I can't say that I really enjoy this route either, even though it does have a hard crux. I have probably climbed it twice in 1998, but I don't ever recall repeating it since. Many routes are worth repeating at this crag, but this isn't one of them.
Jul 26, 2017
Agreed - sharp and awkward.
Aug 29, 2016
- Solaris
- Contact
Communication between my belayer and I was very difficult with the road and the river, fyi.
Sep 10, 2016
Dale Haas and I brought a wrench and tightened the 6th bolt on the 2nd pitch as well as all the other bolts on the 2nd pitch as well. If you go right at the 2nd bolt, it is much easier than going left. That might be why some people think the crux of the route is at the 2nd bolt.
Aug 25, 2016
I thought the second pitch was really enjoyable and well worth doing if you're at Solaris.
Aug 10, 2015
Some of the clips required a bit of a reach. Might not be the best for a shorter person not confident at the grade. I (5'8") was able to clip pretty confidently, but my friend (5'6") struggled a bit more. Also, be careful when your pulling your rope. There are so many ledges to catch the rope on. I got it caught and had to clip up three bolts of p2 and do the some what sketchy downclimb off the big ledge. If nothing else, you should do this route for the beautiful views. Some of the best belay stations I've been too.
Jul 24, 2014
With a 70m, you can climb the whole thing as one pitch and lower back to the mid-anchor so your partner can lead the 2nd pitch too....
May 29, 2014
I agree that the crux on pitch two is at about the 6th bolt and not at the second one.
Aug 9, 2013
The nut and hanger on the sixth bolt, which protects the crux on pitch two, are loose. Bring a wrench for a large-size nut. BTW that bolt is poorly placed, so that the hanger can't rest flush against the rock. BTW I found no good trad placement near the crux.
Aug 23, 2012
The first pitch was a bit of a waste...but would be good for people just wanting to get the feel of clipping without any real stress. The second pitch is really fun that gives you a great view at the end!
May 2, 2010
Excellent climb for your first multi-pitch experience. Well bolted, great ledges and no move harder than 5.9. While not the greatest route in the area, it's worth getting on.
Jun 17, 2009
This route falls into the grey area of what should or should not be bolted. After leading it last night without clipping any of the bolts, I found it to be significantly better and more engaging when done trad and as a single pitch. Why I say that this is a 'grey area' climb is that there are some runouts or difficult areas to place gear. A beginner at this level should not attempt the lead. An experienced leader should be OK. Take a set of cams from .3" to 2.5" and a set of nuts and a significant number of slings, since the pitch is long and wanders a little. The stars, difficulty, and protection grade I give here are accounting for doing it trad.
Aug 30, 2006
I thought this was a great route, and definitely worth the visit. The first pitch felt a little harder than 5.7 at the third bolt. You can't see the P1 anchors until you are past the fourth bolt and pull up onto the ledge. The second pitch was a lot of fun - great climbing throughout on great rock. The crux comes early at the second bolt, followed by a fun transition from face to slab just below the anchors. The anchors are in a great position with good views up the canyon. Definitely recommended.
Aug 7, 2006
Watch out for loose rock on this one. If you look at the beta photo for the first pitch, there is a pretty well-defined block just below the second bolt. That is not there anymore because it peeled off when I was climbing and came within inches of causing some serious damage to my partner's head. Lots of lichen on the rock as well.
May 30, 2004
The second pitch is a fun one. Some well protected moves on big jugs, with less than stellar feet. Definitely worth a go if you're in the area. The first pitch isn't great, but it's over quickly.
Oct 19, 2003
A 60m rope will get you down (without much to spare) from the p2 anchors to the p1 anchors, but make sure your rope ends are even.
Oct 19, 2003
- Cosmic Explorer
Slopers and sidepulls abound! Hard when the sun is on it!
Jun 5, 2006
- Crumbs
This line has a lot of lichen and does not look that great but , it is fun.
Aug 1, 2013
- Don't Get Me Started
The top anchor of this route was one Fixe ring hanger and a standard hanger with one quicklink. Dale Haas and I replaced the standard hanger and quicklink with a Fixe ring hanger. Thanks to Ron Olsen for providing the hardware.
Oct 6, 2014
Pretty good route for a first time leader. Also, I'm feeling like an idiot because I managed to get my purple BD 0.5 X4 stuck in a crack a measly four feet off of the ground when I was showing my partner how to properly and improperly clip a bolt. Went back about a week later, and it was gone. If you happened to pick it up, please let me know! Email is Thomas_glsn@yahoo.com. Thanks!
Jul 3, 2014
Really a pretty good climb for novice climbers, especially the top section with good exposure for the grade.
Aug 30, 2013
This has maybe one 5.6 move, but the route is fun regardless of your climbing ability. The route provides good views and movement.
Jul 29, 2013
When rapping off on the vertical left side of this climb, I noticed a potential 5.10-11ish climb. There's some crumbly holds, but I'm sure there's a good route somewhere in there. Just food for thought....
Jul 5, 2013
This climb must have cleaned up, as I found it pretty enjoyable with solid holds. The 4th class ramp near the bottom will never be great, but the climbing above is fun and an awesome view can be had at the top. This could also be a fun trad lead if you're looking for a little more excitement. Looked like finger-sized gear for the crux and then hand-ish sizes higher up....
Jun 20, 2013
Some good reaching moves. I give it a 5.5. Big flake to the right of the second to last bolt broke free. Pretty dirty, check your holds.
May 26, 2012
Brought some friends up to Solaris who have never climbed outside before, and they really enjoyed this. It was a good confidence builder/first route for them. Probably not 5.6, maybe 5.5 or 5.4 except for one or two moves.
Oct 24, 2011
I agree with Corinne all the way on this one. Still needs a bit of cleanup and this one will be just fun. Thanks again to the F.A.'s!
Nov 7, 2009
Right, it's not The Nose but this is a fun and easy climb for novice/nervous leaders, kids, etc. As someone else commented, it's kind of a mix of 4th class and a couple of real 5.6 moves, but it's a fun route with beautiful views from the top!
Jul 15, 2009
Strange mix of dead easy and a couple of hard (bona fide 5.6, IMHO) moves. Nice view from the anchor ledge. A few loose blocks remaining on this one, but a bit more traffic would solve that problem.
Jun 28, 2009
I've climbed both the East Slab (5.5) on The Dome and Chouette (5.6) in The Riviera (both in Boulder Canyon), and I thought that this climb was easier than both of those, so I am giving it a 5.4. It's a great first climb for a beginner. It's a little dirty, but it's okay. The approach is too long to make it worth revisiting, but it is an excellent route to teach someone how to Lead Sport on. -ajs
May 17, 2005
The rock is still rather dirty on this one, but the rock underneath was solid. It should clean up fairly well with additional traffic.
Oct 11, 2003
- Harvest Moon
Just did this route today. Very dirty. Don't expect to see any chalk, lots of lichen though :). You definitely don't need gear to 3.5". I'm no trad pro, and I never used anything larger than a #1. Take a few shoulder length and a double length slings. As of today, the "anchor" is doable for a rap there is a good biner up there for it.
Aug 15, 2012
- Kundalini Express
The crux on this is near the bottom in perhaps the first 20'. Gear up to a #2 Camalot in size is all you need.
Aug 9, 2013
What is holding up that humongous guillotine perched above the approach to the start of this climb?
Sep 7, 2007
- Left Line
3 of the bolts are next to perfect gear placements!?!? The climb to the left has shitty gear and no bolts.
May 29, 2014
Thin holds between jugs. Crux down low before 3rd bolt. Solid 5.8+. Nice climb. Two stars.
Nov 7, 2009
This climb is reasonable. If wanting more, continue up and left from the top to the top of the next ledge- this can give access to the upper tier from the lower tier without a hike (why not climb instead). Continuing up and left for the remainder of a rope length (or so) will take you past MANY gear placement opportunities, which for the first half would be larger (hand-to-fist-sized) cams in good horizontals and then normal gear higher. The grade might be 5.5 or 5.6. "Leftovers" 5.5(?), 130' FA: Tony Bubb, Free Solo, 8/29/06
Aug 30, 2006
This was the first lead that I ever did and it was great! The last portion of the climb is rather easy and getting up the first third is the tricky part. Directions are right on and the difficulty seemed to be as stated. Lots of other cool climbs in the vicinity, so it is a great place to spend an afternoon.
Mar 28, 2005
This was the first lead that I ever did and it was great! The last portion of the climb is rather easy and getting up the first third is the tricky part. Directions are right on and the difficulty seemed to be as stated. Lots of other cool climbs in the vicinity, so it is a great place to spend an afternoon.
Mar 28, 2005
- Leftovers
- Luminosity, The
Excellent route with varied moves - loved it! The crux is tricky for a 5.9 but definitely doable. Want my beta to avoid aiding it? After you turn the huge roof and stand up to clip the next bolt, drop back down about a foot to stay low on good hands and feet and traverse back toward the right edge of the face. There's a high right-hand pinch on the face that should be within reach unless you're quite short. It's not much, but it's solid. There's also a mini-ledge just under the face itself near the arete - get your feet on this, pull on the right-hand pinch, and stand up calmly. Decent left-hand holds will be in reach. I'm 5'7" and wimpy, and this move wasn't reachy or pumpy or too thin for me. The rest of the route similarly has good hands and feet if you look for them and have decent technique. Use a few long slings to reduce rope drag if you've got them.
Jul 3, 2016
Dale Haas and I addressed the problems with the 4th bolt on this route. We added a SS lock washer and applied some silicone seal to the threads, so this bolt should stay tight for a while. We also tightened most of the other bolts on the route.
Oct 6, 2014
Fun problem, great views, worth the extra hike from Avalon to do. Upgrading a bit due to the crux, which felt hard for a 5.9 (even for Boulder Canyon).
Jul 28, 2014
One of the best 5.9s IMHO. I got around the roof by crouching low standing on the ledge on the face of the arete(?) and sidepulling on both sides then just inching around. The crux is committing, but there is small micro-ledge above the cave right of the jug that you can get your foot up on to. In conjunction with the pinch, it's doable. Be warned, the next few clipping stances aren't great and might really tax a nervous leader.
Jul 24, 2014
Crux bolt nut (the first bolt after the roof) is still loose - I hand-tightened it today.
Jul 24, 2014
Excellent route. Sustained climbing at the grade. I'm not sure how it was before a hold at the crux reportedly broke off, but I would say it goes at 5.9, sustained with some moves over exposure. I too found the bolt next to the crux to be loose 7/2/14. Solid bolt, the nut on it is just loose. Didn't have a tool otherwise I'd have tightened it more than just by hand. It's probably the bolt most likely to get torqued on the route due to being at the crux, so check it out before you clip it. Have fun!
Jul 3, 2014
I tried to rope solo Luminosity today, and I am clueless at the crux so ended up doing it 5.8 A0. For the life of me, I couldn't figure out how to move my hands to lean over to the jug? Is the move height dependant or was I just off today? I think the Avalon/Solaris area is some of the softest grades in the canyon, and this felt way harder than say Dominator, Mists of Avalon, The Tower, or Wheel of Fortune. Or like I say I was off and missing something. Have to go back w/ a partner.
Nov 29, 2013
NOTICE: As of 9/7/13, the 4th bolt (I believe) above the roof and at the crux is loose. Still a great route! Definitely a stiff 9 without the broken off hold...maybe 10a?
Sep 7, 2013
Terrific, long route with great positions on very steep rock and spectacular views at the top. Sustained 5.8/5.9 with a 5.10a crux above the roof.
Aug 30, 2013
I lead this yesterday, having never climbed it before. It's well protected, but I would grade it at 9+, only for the crux. Someone mentioned the sidepull being gone, which makes it much more balancy to get your feet above the roof. The next couple moves are tricky as well, which makes the sequence harder than 9 in my opinion. For reference, I've lead In Memory of Trees twice, and feel Luminosity is more difficult. Not quite 10a, but sustained 8+, with a 9+ crux. The diagonal crack before the anchors is excellent.
Jun 23, 2013
One of the best 5.9 sport routes in Boulder Canyon! Turning the roof and next few face moves are the crux. The flake at the top is my favorite section.
May 17, 2012
Yeah, when I climbed it today, I was confused about the sequence above the roof. Having climbed it before, I remembered a nice hold to get your feet over to the right and eventually up. Without the hold, it's definitely harder- perhaps 10a.
Mar 25, 2012
During early September, I pulled off a hunk of rock about the size of a book at the crux. So... it's a little harder now. To pass the crux, there was this sidepull off to your right. Yeah, it's not there anymore. Good luck. It's still a blast of a route.
Nov 1, 2011
Nicely varied climbing (backstep, layback, you can even fingerjam if you really want) on positive holds the whole way. Recommend using a double-runner on the bolt inside the dihedral; this will help with rope drag a bit later, but it's manageable without. 5.9? It's a "boulder canyon 5.9" which means it's more like 5.8. Whatever. 5.youcan or 5.youcan't.
Jul 8, 2009
This is a fun route with big, positive hand holds for the entire thing. It is a sequence of interesting moves shifting your weight around. I would say there isn't a single move harder than 5.8, but it is sustained throughout.
Aug 11, 2008
One of the best sport 9s that I've been on in BC. Interesting moves and great views. This and The Memory of Trees at Watermark are my favorites at the grade.
Sep 19, 2007
I really liked this route. Fun, varied moves and nice length and nicely bolted.
May 25, 2007
Don't pass this one up! Excellent route that will clean up in time. Recommend that the belayer be wearing a helmet and glasses as there is an occasional lichen shower and/or pebble size rock. There are also some fist size rocks waiting to be pulled out as well. 50M rope just gets you down. Don't forget your knots in the ends though!
Aug 13, 2006
I thought this was another great route on Solaris. Fun, sustained climbing to the anchors, with great position. The final moves up the arcing hand crack just below the anchors are great. I would agree with Ron - the best route on Solaris, and worth going back to.
Aug 7, 2006
Maybe 5.9 by Boulder Canyon sport standards, but there are much harder 9s. The fun move is the move left at the roof--squatting there trying to figure out what to do with your head. The moves up and right above the roof are also tricky. I wanted to go right just above the lip...
Oct 29, 2003
- Mephistophiles
Don't hesitate to lead this. The crack above the bolt is definitely flared, but it's more of a problem for jams than gear. There are several solid gear placements but zero solid jams :(
Oct 11, 2014
This climb does look dirty, especially at the bottom, but it is fun and should not be overlooked.
Aug 9, 2013
This thing is filthy and looks terrible but climbs really well. There is great gear except for the very bottom which is covered in lichen. The bolt is perfectly located right at the only hard move....
May 25, 2012
Nice use of the word "festooned" Tony!
Aug 14, 2008
This climb is better than it looks from the ground and with some thought and effort can be completely festooned with gear, even above the bolt.
Jun 5, 2006
- Mission To Mars
The crux is at the top, right at the last bolt. There is a slopy, sidepull thing (that is the only way I can describe it) you have to use to work your way up to establish yourself at the anchor. I couldn't reach the anchor from the stance below the roof, so I had to make the moves, that is where the 5.10 is I would say. The route is ok, worth doing once for sure.
Aug 16, 2013
The crux is certainly at the top and maybe the very bottom if you don't touch the tree. I think the climb is mostly 5.8 and you could use all gear, but the bolts are nice and reassuring to clip.
Jul 29, 2013
I know I'm on an told topic of dispute; however, this route feels like the 5.10 move is right at the top just under the anchor and can actually be skipped if you stretch a little (I'm short FYI) and clip the anchor. Otherwise a somewhat fun if awkward climb. I'm easily amused though, so your milage may vary.
Nov 8, 2012
Perhaps it's because I am only getting into trad, but this definitely felt 5.10 to me. With comparing the other routes in the area, especially Tower of Power, there were two moves on this (the lieback and pulling right with a high foot above the anchor) that felt easily as hard if not harder than any move on Tower of Power. Fun climb and agree that this could have been protected with a little runout and skipping all of the bolts. I certainly appreciate those anchors though!
Jun 17, 2011
For pro: I place 2 small nuts (somewhere in the #3-#7 range) and then protected the last move before the first bolt with a 0.4 BD cam. I tried to not touch the tree, but it was pretty unnatural to not lean out when placing the first piece of gear. If the tree weren't there it wouldn't be much harder, but it is a bit contrived to find some body position that doesn't touch it... I would say the last move to get to the first bolt was the hardest move before the roof, and was comparable to 5.9s in the area (similar to the crux move on Luminosity for difficulty) Once you get to the bolts the climbing eases off until you clip the anchor. Once you clip the anchor, pulling the roof seemed harder than any move on the neighboring 5.10bs to the left (Tower of Power or Twilight Zone) Obviously, you are already into the anchors so you can just pull yourself up... but there are a couple of decent foot holds to establish yourself on and once you pull the roof, there are good handholds above the anchor, so pulling on the anchors isn't necessary.
Jun 20, 2009
Tradsplatter wrote:This climb is a waste of bolts. I only followed this one, but it seemed roughly correct rating at 10a. A few fun moves and should be a trad route IMO.Mark, I wouldn't be too quick to pass judgment on the route until you've led it yourself without clipping the bolts. Do you think the two-bolt anchor at the top should also be removed, to make this a "pure" trad route? How many ascents do you think the route would see if if it had no bolts at all? My guess: not many. The move turning the roof is pretty hard, and poorly protected without the last lead protection bolt or the bolt anchor to clip.
Oct 4, 2007
This climb is a waste of bolts. I only followed this one, but it seemed roughly correct rating at 10a. A few fun moves and should be a trad route IMO.
Oct 3, 2007
I cleaned the loose stuff from the crack and it goes all trad, at least to the anchors, without any runouts. Gear- cams to 3" and larger stoppers or small tricams. You can pull up over the roof, but it is difficult- clip the anchor for that move.
Oct 3, 2007
I wasn't trying to get heavy... But when you're trying to assess the correctness of a climb's rating, you need to consider how it is usually done. This is more the case with sport climbs where it's often easiear to climb just a few feet to one side or the other. (With trad it's almost always considered fair to use nearby features.) So, when rating a climb, there are some "rules" that need to be considered. Ditto for rating boulder problems.
Oct 30, 2003
Ivan, You need not ask anyone about what constitutes the end of a climb, success or failure but yourself. In the big picture, What The *#@% Does It Matter (WTFDIM)? The beauty (and sometimes scourge) of this game is that we all play by our own rules, more or less. (The exception is when our rules change the rules or experience for others, e.g. bolting, chipping, etc. I won't tread any further on this slippery slope.) Anarchy is the cornerstone of climbing. Seeking affirmation from others is anathema to the game and its' primary rule (anarchy), thus depriving yourself of an experience that you define on your terms.
Oct 30, 2003
William, I thought I was clear. I clipped the anchor bolts clean, and then pulled on those draws to get high enough to thread the rings. Clipping the anchor bolts was about 5.9. Below that the climbing felt like 5.8. Often, people grab the anchor draws, because there is no good stance at the anchors, and that's my question on Mission to Mars: Is the climb over when you clip the anchor, or are you supposed to continue and actually pull over the hang? If your chest is at, say, the level of the anchor, there would be no decent stance. Ivan
Oct 30, 2003
Ivan, I'm confused... You've established yourself on this site by posting comments on 5.9+ well into the 5.11 range and yet, this easy 5.8 necessitates you "yarding on the draws?" I'm not calling you out by any means, just seeking clarification. What do you mean by "yarding on the 'draws?" French-Freeing a route, or something else? If FF-ing the route is what you meant, was it the darkness or difficulty that affected your ascent style? I think it's just me having stayed up WAY too late reading this cursed site in my insomnia. Cheers!~Wm
Oct 29, 2003
The climbing up to the roof is, in my opinion, 5.8. If this is the crux, and is considered 10a, then the sport standards are really slipping. There are 5.8s that are way harder than this. As for the last move, clipping the anchors is strenuous, but are you supposed to get established above the roof, or do you just yard on the draws (as I did)? I tried several times to pull over the lip to get established on the holds by the anchors, but couldn't get it. I was in a bit of a panic, because it was getting dark, so maybe I missed something. If you're supposed to pull over the lip rather than yard on the draws, this might be real 10c or so. On the other hand, if you're just supposed to clip the anchors and yard on the draws, then this is silly. Just put the anchors under the roof.
Oct 29, 2003
I'm happy that the first ascensionists left the crack unbolted -- a few small cams protect that section quite nicely. There's a fair amount of pigeon "grease" around the third bolt, so beware. The moves just getting to the anchor felt rather awkward to me.
Oct 11, 2003
- My Place In the Universe
- Party On
- Right Line
This is a fun climb, but I have to agree that I could not find a 5.9 move. I think it is a 5.8.
Aug 1, 2013
Another good climb! Yes a bit easier than Left Line IMO, but still a 5.8 and worth doing. Again 2 stars.
Nov 7, 2009
Decent route for a warm up. If there is a 5.9 move on this route, I sure could not find one.
Oct 3, 2007
Height-dependent - at the 3rd bolt if you can not reach the good edge you'd have to make a funky lay-back. If you can reach, it's quite easy. (6'0" would be easy, or shorter with long arms). The real question here is about the bolts. WTF? Let's see, perfect green Camalot, stopper, stopper, .75" cam, stopper, ledge with whatever, tree. That got me 20 feet up past the first 3 bolts. All placements were bomber and I put them 4' apart for effect.
Aug 30, 2006
Ok climb. I would concur that Left Line is the more difficult of the two. Keep an eye on the large detached block above the tree.
Aug 13, 2006
Not a bad climb, but rather easy for a 5.9 rating. I felt that Left Line was a little more difficult personally. The crux seems to be right at the beginning and farther up was not that challenging. Still a fun easy climb and lots of other routes in the vicinity for the novice leader to enjoy. And the tree in the middle makes a nice obstacle to get around.
Mar 28, 2005
- Right Way, The
This route is fun! It's true that you can place gear instead of clipping the bolts on Right Line, but you might as well clip the bolts unless you really enjoy placing gear.
Aug 1, 2013
I thought this was the most fun climb in this lower section. The dihedral is FAR cleaner that one would expect. If you start below the dihedral to the right-ish (the obvious line all the way up), be VERY careful on the flake to the climber's right before you get to the ledge. It's about 5-6' tall and about 4' deep at the top, and it almost came completely out when I pulled on it at the very top. Be careful with that one as the climbing is easy on solid rock to that point. Note: this whole bottom section is rated pretty soft.
Apr 22, 2012
- Start Me Up
There is definitely still some loose rock on this route. My friend knocked a chunk off (approximately palm size) near the fourth bolt. It bounced off the tree right of the base and then off of me. No injuries, but yeah, there is loose rock up there. The route is great fun though. The line isn't super-obvious from the ground, but I thoroughly enjoyed the lead.
Apr 18, 2017
This route has no difficult moves but is true to its rating and is fun. Where you think there might be a hard move hidden holds appear.
Jul 29, 2013
Good climb. It dies out just as the fun really sinks in. The first half has some good moves. Easy end. Heads up: Flake was broken today. The route is clean, but all it took was a lieback for someone to pop of the flake. (Wear a helmet!)
Jun 18, 2011
Excellent clean face! Thanks to the F.A. folks who bolted it! Pure 5.7 and 2 Stars!!
Nov 7, 2009
Nice route, but it ended just as I was getting into it.
Jun 28, 2009
Unlike some of the other routes at Solaris, this one is already quite clean.
Oct 11, 2003
- Stellar Drifter
Most of the first pitch has quite the classic alpine feel (discontinuous, loose, 4th/5th class, lichen-y). The second pitch is on much more solid rock and super-cool, and is one of those pitches you wish was at least twice as long. Its beginning is quite run-out, though it's possible to clip the first bolt of Cosmic Explorer and traverse back into the crack from there at 9+ or so. Rapped C.E., after debating the existence of a walk-off. Apparently, according to previous post, that will work.
Jun 13, 2011
The start of the 5.9 section is not completely unprotectable. I think it is unnecessary to clip a bolt on Cosmic Explorer. If you can climb 5.9s, you make a move or two before you get good gear, but it is doable without too much risk.
Aug 15, 2013
I'm not sure where A Concerned Citizen was, but there are no bolts on this route. We did it this way: one short 30' pitch of hand cracks to a ledge with a tree (5.7ish). The second pitch begins at this broad 15' ledge. A few flaring cracks lead up on balancy moves with somewhat tricky but adequate gear. I saw the anchors to the right on Cosmic Explorer, but headed to the top of the formation via an offwidth and walked off the back. We headed to the next gully over after you top out to walk down. Decent route, a bit dirty but given the location that might be expected. Still fun, though.
Jul 10, 2008
Protects well on a single set of cams to 3" plus nuts. The climb is great moves on good rock, but it would be better if not broken up by a ledge. Total length is ~105' and it can be rapped to the ground from the anchors to the right on Cosmic Explorer with a 70M rope.
Jun 5, 2006
- Tower of Power
Fun route! Can be toproped by moving the anchor over from Luminosity, but it seems like there would be a big swing with the rope dragging across the edge of the roof if you fall below it. Maybe not the safest toprope unless you're able to send up a confident .10b climber to clip in some directionals on the bolts below/to the right of the roof.
Oct 5, 2015
I did not see the rock with the X on it today, so I think it's been trundled.
Nov 8, 2012
Agree with the previous comment about the 'x'. I wouldn't jump up and down on it, but it didn't seem all that bad.
May 6, 2012
Not sure about the rock with the "x" on it. I pulled on it from below, pushed on it when going by, and stood on it when above it. Sure, it's a tad bit hollow, but it's fine as long as you aren't putting gear around it (and since there's a bolt 2' above and 2' below, I hope you aren't).
Apr 22, 2012
Fun route. Use longer slings on the first three bolts as the route trends left after the roof. Large positive holds get you over the roof to some fun face climbing. Be aware, it's a little ways up to the first bolt.
Sep 30, 2006
I wondered why Rossiter said, "Hint: stay in line with the bolts above the roof." There are some bigger holds out left, but they don't work so well, If you're right at the bolts at the crux move, there's a ladder of small but positive foot holds, that makes it quite easy.
Oct 29, 2003
- Twilight Zone
This is a fun climb that maintains its difficulty throughout.
Aug 9, 2013
Excellent, well protected route (bolts just where you want them). It's still getting "cleaned up," as there's still a fair bit of lichen/dirt/loose chips.
Jul 20, 2009
Another "must do" at Solaris! Don't celebrate too early as it is slightly run out (but easy climbing) from the last bolt to the anchors.
Oct 16, 2006
Despite initial appearances, this is one of the better routes at Solaris.
Jun 5, 2006
Good route, steep with the bolts in just the right places.
Aug 27, 2005
- Spasmodic Rock
- Joker and the Thief, The
- Lily and the Jack of Hearts
Cleaned up a little more last night. Just stay right once you pull the roof and avoid the crumble.
May 9, 2012
Still shedding/crumbly. Good climbing on poorly cleaned rock- might get better with time. Hard to on-sight, as above the roof is a semi-blind balance move, but not hard once you know what to do. Bolt just above the roof is placed awkwardly for the rope if you go up and fall on that, which is the crux. Maybe a long draw (10-12" and beefy) would be best so you don't cut your rope or sling on the flake as your taut rope slices across it.
Apr 26, 2011
Meh. Short, dirty, and lots of crumbly rock. If I were a scout leader, I would take the kids here every day for a summer and eventually all of the duff might get cleaned off. Or maybe not.
May 20, 2008
Fun bouldery feeling route, but a bit dirty. I suggest belaying off to the side to avoid being showered with grit.
Jul 27, 2007
- Sport Park, The
- Clock Tower, The
- Chicken Wall
- Alfa Chick
This was a deceptive climb. Lots of shifting your weight. Can be pumpy if your not sure of the moves.
Sep 1, 2009
Agree. Very deceptive little line. Looks like a walk from below, but really had me wondering around the 3rd clip (no guidebook). Turned out to be good suprises though...not a bad climb.
Mar 24, 2007
Great little slab line. Intriguing to figure it out onsight. Packs a punch for its brevity.
Mar 5, 2002
- Chicken Delight
Bold moves, lots of standing up on slabby feet while pulling on small high underclings or sidepulls. Feels very stout on lead. Many of the best feet up the face are not visible from above...you have to kind of toe around for the pockets in the horizontal grooves. Going left to the lieback is more secure but also feels like cheating. Several reachy moves for me at 5'7".
May 14, 2017
Fun but short. If it were twice as long with half as many bolts, I would give it three stars.
Apr 19, 2014
Good stuff.
Dec 31, 2012
Did it again today. New nemesis. Didn't use the left flake holds at all, tried going directly up the bolt line - definitely not 10a/b, at least c. Some holds are now polished and more difficult to use. Going to the right does work, but takes you off the bolt line. Really wondering what the intended route was! I'll keep coming back until my skills allow me to climb straight up the bolt line - totally doable, just not at my skill level yet. Not that I think this is a particularly good route overall. Really interested to try the 10c to the right, it looks fun.
Jun 2, 2012
Climbing up the face didn't seem 5.10a/b, I used a bunch of the flake on the left. Very fun that way, it will feel difficult if you are strong on the laybacks. My partner said that his legs were worn out from hanging on the flake and sliding up the wall.
May 1, 2012
Good route. I think the crux move was a little tougher than Rubber Chicken. Interesting holds, nice rock. I moved slightly left of the bolts to step up onto the ledge above the crux. Seems like if I was to the right I would have been on the other route.
Sep 4, 2010
The one to the right is comparable in difficulty but much better quality.
Aug 6, 2010
Came back to lead this again and tried it on the right side. Crag Dweller is right, it is more fun on the right side for sure.
Jul 11, 2010
I think this route is more fun if you stay to the right of the bolt line.
Sep 7, 2009
The moves felt redundant and pumpy. Delight wasn't terrible, but did not live up to its name. Worth it for a workout.
Sep 2, 2009
Not the worst route on the rock, but other than the crux reach/undercling, its kind of like doing the same move over and over....
Oct 15, 2002
- Chicken Hawk
Actually a really fun little pitch with a variety of holds: slopers, crimps, monster jugs, jams, and a mantle move. Only one or two moves that were 5.9.
Jul 20, 2010
Fun route. I think 5.9 is a fair rating, considering the area. Good warm up. Some reachy moves. Pretty safe, although don't blow the last clip. Nice, steep pitch. I moved a little right about mid height, at a nice finger jam, but was able to easily reach back left for the clip. Then moved back in the bolt line via some great incuts. Lots of nice, satisfying holds on this climb.
Jun 25, 2010
I love this route as a good warm up for the chicken wall. It has also been useful as a spot to teach others some leading skills. It seems more like a 5.8 than a 5.9, but it really depends on your route. Don't drift too far from the bolt line!
Sep 2, 2009
I would lean towards the 8 rating. Good feet the whole way. Great warm-up for the rest of the wall.
Apr 30, 2007
8 or 9, there are pretty good holds sustained to the anchors. If ever there are worn holds there are good feet (my take). It's a decent route- definitely a good first run for the day.
Mar 24, 2007
This felt like solid 5.9 to me; maybe some of the edges have rounded off over the years. A good climb.
Jun 19, 2006
I agree about the rating. But you must always think of the grading issues at 'The Sport Park' when you go up there. Many of the routes are a little overgraded. Perhaps this route could be 8+.
Sep 23, 2001
There are so many features to use on this route, I'm not sure why it's not rated 5.8.
Jun 21, 2001
- Chicken Lips
Short, fun climb on thin (and sharp) holds. Nice and balancy -- keep an eye on your feet! Hard to know if the side of the arete on the left is on, though -- makes some parts significantly easier.
Aug 8, 2016
Almost had flash. No send but one hang. Thought it quite good and I look forward to a single push next I'm there. Yes, short but good moment is just good movement. Worth the effort.
Sep 15, 2012
A good climb with a short crux. It's relatively easy getting the clips on bolts 1 and 2, so if you are into hangdogging the crux (not that I'd ever do such a thing), then you are totally safe. Yep, sharp holds.
Apr 8, 2012
I'm with Dr. Evil on this one. Sharp! But overall fun with a crux around bolts 2 - 4. Also, I made the crux moves before (attempting to) clip bolt 3, and got to the first good hold up and left of the third bolt. I was clipping from roughly waist height when I slipped and took a totally clean fall. (And I outweighed by belayer by about 70 lbs.) I think if you fell trying to clip the third bolt from the lower, worse holds, you might not take such a clean fall.
Jun 27, 2010
This would be a good route if it was a little longer. Still, better than some of the other routes on this section of rock.
Jun 16, 2008
On the downside, this route has some rather sharp holds. On the upside, it has some fun balancy moves.
Jun 23, 2007
- Daddy Blocker
Climbing on first half is OK, but bolts are placed to the right which makes route finding less obvious. The second half is contrived and poorly bolted. An attentive belayer is necessary to avoid a ledge fall on the upper half; 2 ways to pull the roof - I thought the right option better.
Jul 8, 2013
Contrived and not easy.
Aug 15, 2011
5.9??? Oh my god, Leo??? This is the one route at the cliff that I thought was hard at its grade and my partner agreed. I thought 11a. Would be a decent route if it were not for the guano up high- a nasty lot of it when wet too- where are my arm-condums (TM)???
May 29, 2008
A decent route -- be careful clipping the second bolt! I "barn-doored" off the wall while trying to get in a better position to the right of this bolt to clip it --- I was flipped over head-first because of the rope running under my leg and came within 1 foot of hitting my head on the ground...close call!! The next day I went and bought a helmet!
Aug 8, 2002
I'm no Sharma, but 5.9 is closer to reality.
Mar 7, 2002
- Mommy Blocker
Maybe I did it wrong, but the crux on the bolt line is not 5.10. Both my partner and I wouldn't do it on lead. Instead we traversed right, practically getting onto the Weasel next door as we went around. Overall, too short, do it if you're stuck waiting for something else.
May 1, 2012
Weird route, not really worth the effort it took to put in the bolts. Still, there were a few good moves and a couple of finger jams. A little zig-zaggy, pretty tough to follow the bolt line. A tad harder than the line to the right, but honestly, it didn't feel like 5.10 to me.
Aug 28, 2010
It felt like a 5.10a to me, but this was right after working a few other problems on the wall, so it was probably fatigue kicking in. Fun route to climb though!
Sep 2, 2009
Err.. 5.8 perhaps?
Mar 7, 2002
- Rubber Chicken
Crimpy sloapers and delicate footwork kept this one interesting from bottom to top. Indeed fun!
Nov 3, 2015
Gets your heart pumping, for sure.
Dec 31, 2012
This is a very enjoyable climb! The line is not obvious and it has some nice, fluid and balancey moves.
Apr 8, 2012
5.10c ??? Much easier than the 5.9s on Castle Rock!
Oct 16, 2010
Such an attractive wall. Nice, steep line with great holds. Both routes are intelligently bolted. Led both today. I think this one is slightly easier than Delight. But I agree this is a better quality climb. Great holds and a little more straightforward than Delight. Do them both when visiting.
Sep 4, 2010
Very fun. I found there to be a committing crux about halfway up. Wasn't sure if I would peel off when I made the move. Cool friction foot moves.
Jun 27, 2010
Definitely worth the climb. WAY better than chicken delight. I found it easier in the sense that the moves were more fluid, harder in the sense that it is more technical. More tricky short moves = more fun in my opinion.
Sep 2, 2009
This route is balancey, interesting, and fun. I didn't find it particularly reachy, and I'm 5'5".
Jun 23, 2007
This is an excellent pitch; one of the best sport 10s I've done in Boulder Canyon. Sustained and interesting from bottom to top.
Jun 19, 2006
I agree with the above comment. Its more sustained, fluid, and enoyable. i don't think any one move was harder than the crux on Chicken Delight, though the overall sequence was tricky. Footwork and balance was the key. Good route.
Oct 15, 2002
Definitely more fluid and fun than the route to its left, Chicken Delight. Both are worth doing, though.
Mar 25, 2002
- Wessel in the Chicken Coop
I thought it was a pretty fun route, considering it's so short and doesn't look like much from the ground. I enjoyed the crux bulge. You have to search a little for the best combination. It's not obvious. Recommended.
Jun 25, 2010
Perhaps the key to making this climb a little easier, is the zig zagging as stated above. I think if you keep to the bolt line the route is enjoyable and the holds will be a little more slopey than the others to the left and right. I guess it could be considered an elimination kind of route, but either way have fun with this one. A good warm up with the route directly left, then continue around the corner.
Sep 25, 2001
- Upper Wall
- Beaver Fever
Wow! I never thought I'd see the direct start be rated 5.11 or even .11d. Are you sure you were on the correct route? Leave It To Beaver has a high 1st bolt that must be climbed up to from the left, above the starting ledge. This is followed by a hand traverse right past 2nd bolt to reach a small, left-facing corner. Beaver Fever is the 3 bolt direct start just right of Leave It To Beaver & just left of Mutant Overload (the black streak). It can either be done to start Leave It To Beaver or Mutant Overload. The line Beaver Fever is the 5.12 direct start to the former, but it can be done to make the latter harder for a 12d/13a called Beaver Overload. I usually preclip the 2nd bolt to avoid a ledgefall. There is a jug hueco to start then to poor sloping small edge & a small undercling flake to match on, & then reach to a good jug pocket. At 3rd bolt, the climb moves up left into the corner. One of hardest moves on the Clock Tower with the exception of Salad Shooter. I can't always do it especially when it's warm. Perhaps it is easier for shorter climbers. To say that The Joker at Easter Rock is harder is a joke. I've warmed up on The Joker many times. It's a hard warm-up & certainly has strange, funky moves but nothing as hard as the show stopper Beaver Fever. I first tried this start in 1999. I finally did it in Fall 2001. That was a good year. I had finally redpointed Buddha Belly, then Pump Truck, to mention a couple of the nearly 100 climbs of .12a or harder I sent that year. I redpointed Beaver Overload in 2006, then did Ten Digit Dialing (.12c) in Clear Creek. In 2007, I repeated many hard routes including Ten Digit & Mutant Overload & also did the first redpoint of War On Freedom (.13a/b) at Plotinus Wall but failed to repeat Beaver Fever. To answer the Anonymous Coward, it has been a very long time since I climbed Surreal Estate at Shelf Road, but it seemed harder than any single move on that route.
Jul 19, 2015
Four weeks out from hand surgery! Yeah it's no 12c, but it probably adds a letter grade to the difficulty of the route overall. 5.11d would be a good grade for this route anywhere.
Oct 17, 2010
I think there are 2 variations to this climb. The one that goes out left is pretty easy. Then there's one that is directly under the bolts, I had to use a sloper and lay back to swing to a big jug. This was the hardest part of the climb. Hardest climbing I have done. I give it a 12a/b and 4 stars (my style of climbing).
Jul 13, 2010
I also don't believe the people who rated this 5.11 were on route. The first bolt on Leave it to Beaver is a bit right of the easiest line and might look like a direct start.
Oct 4, 2008
Softest graded climb I've done in BoCan. The "12c" part isn't even as hard as the upper part, which is the 11d crux of Leave it to Beaver. Decent route, nonetheless.
Jul 21, 2005
No where close to the difficulty of Gyro Captain.
Jan 20, 2003
I believe that 11a might be a little sandbagged for sport climbing in Boulder Canyon. I have not climbed any of the routes you mentioned above, but the day I did the route, my wife and a friend also did the route. My wife, Michelle, has never climbed a 5.11c, let alone 12c. She fell once, and that was past the crux. My friend, Ryan, did not fall at all, and at the time he had to make 12a projects. We all thought this route was 5.11. I thought it was about the same grade as The Joker at Easter Rock, which I had done the week before I did Beaver Fever. As with any rating, peoples opionion will be different, and it should not be left up to one person. Maybe other people will put in thier two cents and we can get a consensus. I am not trying to sandbag, but it might come naturally.
Aug 21, 2002
There seems to be a dispute here to how hard this route is: 12c vs. 11a. Quite a difference. Is one person trying to sandbag or is the other person looking for an ego stroke. So, how hard does this route feel? Is it similar in difficulty to 12c's such as Rifle's "Pretty Hate Machine", or Shelf Road's "Surreal Estate", or Boulder Canyon's "Gyro Captain". The first ascentionists put a grade on the route. Doesn't mean you can't disagree with them. They may even disagree with themselves if they did the route again.
Aug 20, 2002
- Beaver Overload
- Belfry, The
- Big Dipper, The
I have seen it led on gear. If that is how you get your kicks, then have fun. I can't imagine wanting to bother spending the time dicking around with the gear, when I can just cruise up it for a warm-up & not have to bring a rack. 99.99% of the ascents made of this route have used the bolts. I haven't heard any complaints.
Aug 1, 2017
This can be safely led on gear with a SR and medium nuts, with extra #0.75/#1s. 5.10.
Jul 23, 2015
Let's be real about the grade. Calling this .10a is just plain ridiculous. I have felt this climb could be rated .10d, & in areas where overhanging 5.10 is the norm, it probably would be. That said, I've watched many climbers struggle & hang going past 4th bolt up the short, left-facing crack corner. This lieback, fingerlock section is a real crux with overhanging moves leading up to it. There aren't many other continuously overhung 5.10 sport routes in Boulder Canyon. I have always felt that sticking to Big Dipper's original rating of 5.11a was wise. If you rate it 5.10 or 5.10d, all the more climbers will get on it & flail. It is one of my favorite warm-ups at this crag.
Jul 19, 2015
Finally returned to this one and got to lead it! Whatever the grade, it's a great route. Some exciting exposed moves. Check it out if you're in the area.
Jul 11, 2010
One of my favorite climbs in the Sport Park. I typically stay in the 5.9-5.10 realm, but my brother took me up on this one and I loved it more than some 4-star climbs. A great route for anyone breaking into the 5.11s.
Sep 2, 2009
This climb is fun, and consistently easier than it looks.
Jun 23, 2007
A joke at .11a. Watch the z-clip crux.
Sep 1, 2005
Might as well mention that most of this route could be led on good natural gear. So, it's overrated, overbolted....right on par for Bo Can.
Jul 21, 2004
I totally agree with Nick. I am so sick of hearing how "That route would be 5.6 at the Gunks."And really, who does care if it's a, b, d,q, or f. Did you enjoy the climb or not? And besides, your not 20 years old anymore and the routes are probably harder than you remember! Good luck with your crusade.
Jul 21, 2004
Yes, the old Spoog-ster does care, and anonymous coward appears to also care. This is good. The Spoog-ster cares about consistency in grading/quality ratings within a climbing area...not the actual grades themselves. We climbers should all care and make efforts to continue self-organizing ourselves for the benefit of our sport.
Jul 21, 2004
I've been on routes graded mid-5.10 that are harder than Tagger, Outer Space, and Grandmother's Challenge. So, that makes Tagger, Outer Space and Grandmother's Challenge 10- or perhaps 5.9, which means Big Dipper is 5.9 or 5.8 (this is clearly nonsense).......... The point: it's difficult to compare trad grades to sport grades. Furthermore, it's hard to compare grades from one climbing area with grades of another climbing area. How about we compare the grade for a climb in one are with other climbs in the SAME area. (i.e., compare Big Dipper to other climbs in Boulder Canyon). The result of within-climbing area grade comparison will of course be that some areas will have a reputation as soft and others as sandbagged.... but who cares.......
Jul 20, 2004
Easier than Tagger, Outer Space, Grandmother's Challenge, etc.
May 7, 2004
A beautiful climb! The bat shit, I feel, does not detract from the route at all since it has become park of the rock --- like a black glue. A great workout for more difficult 5.11's.
Aug 8, 2002
Great route, very fun. Seemed easier than graded for those who are pushing their limits.
May 14, 2002
An enjoyable route, although it doesn't look very promising from the ground. The holds are large and the angle is steeper than it looks, if there was no bat shit all over the route, it would be much nicer, but a great line dispite all of this.
Sep 25, 2001
- Butt Luscious
Definitely a harder climb than Leave It To Beaver. As hard or harder than Turkey Neck Direct at Stepping Stones & certainly move powerful. If you are 6 foot 4 inches tall, I can believe that this route is 5.11c. Gotta say if you climb 5.14, it is easy to rate this 5.11, if you even know the difference between 5.11 & 5.11d. There are a few people that don't climb 5.13 or 5.14, that rated this climb between .10c & 5.11a/b. I'd love to watch them climb this route, just to confirm it's as easy for them as they rate it.
Jul 28, 2017
Does this discussion about each other's personalities and egos really belong in comments about a route? Take it to PMs.
Aug 13, 2015
Richard, Long time no see. I hope all is going well. There is no point in changing what you wrote if that's your opinion and you own it and you're not beholden to anyone to change it. The consensus vote shows in the route a few lines down anyway. People can click "details" to see how that was arrived at. Voices in disagreement are a valuable aspect of the data here. My ongoing discussion here has never been to attempt to get everyone on a single grade or page, it was to defend that the multiple voices are valid, and that no single voice or opinion should or can dictate the opinion of others. I defend my interpretation of the route but don't expect others to necessarily share it. I don't think it's a big deal to have a consensus rating different, or even far different, than the initial posting. Reason being, at least that is a "flag" that there may be something subjective in the grading or perception of it. Have a good one, and hope to see you out at the crags some time again!
Aug 13, 2015
Harder than "Higher Calling" at Empire seems a bit of stretch.
Jul 27, 2015
Consensus is 5.11c for BL, but the numbers are still all over the charts. How does 5.11+ work for consensus?
Jul 23, 2015
Wow. What a huge amount of bullshit in the comment section & the grades. First, having done this route many times (& I am tall), this route feels like .11d at the 3rd bolt. I rated it .12a/b after watching numerous shorter climbers on the route. Most were stumped, a few suceeded with much more technical beta than my lunge move. Perhaps .11d/12a is a better rating. That said, it is a classic route for Boulder Canyon. There are 8 protection bolts.
Jul 22, 2015
The climb is overrated. The Sport Park is overrated. Hell, Boulder Canyon itself is almost always consistently overrated. And? And if an area's grades are habitually, consistently soft (or sandbagged, for that matter) AT WHATEVER THE GRADE, then it falls to the community to make a stand and address that, inject some objectivity, as best as that can be acomplished. So bravo down- and up-graders. As I see it, that's the whole damn point of this Mountain Project.
Jul 13, 2011
I didn't like this climb much, I thought the opening move was hard, and would be significantly harder for normal size (reach) people. The rest was pretty much easier, but not gimmee. Good line, not so great climbing.
Aug 4, 2008
Okay...the fragile ego downgraders that frequent this site need to remember that we are talking about moderate routes (11+ through 12-). Does Tony B and his other cast of middle-aged weaklings need to be reminded that there is nothing cutting edge about this grade range? What is their motive to downgrade? To remind the gym rat with six months experience that they haven't scratched the surface of advanced climbing? If you find yourself downgrading 12- routes, you probably need to take up another sport, because you just don't matter anymore!
Aug 26, 2007
TB - yhe ape index does help to soften the move. I think the 5.12 rating was noted in Rolofson's guide, and I used that as a reference. Personally, I don't think the move is 5.10. Mid to upper 11 probably fits.
Jul 16, 2003
I'm going to take a LOT of heat for this, but it is my honest opinion. This climb is VERY severely overgraded. It's fun but very overgraded. Maybe something broke off and left better holds, maybe it just suited my style, maybe I had the best day of my climbing career, but 5.12a/b should not be a cake walk for me - it should be on par with my most desperate on-sights ever. It wasn't. I'd put it on par with a soft 5.11 or hard 5.10. That said, big moves to big holds. I have very long arms and big shoulders. It you are 6' (I'm 5'10" with a +6" ape index) this should go well. Really fun move. Please tell me that the opening undercling was real?!?!? It looked and felt drilled to me! I honestly thought it was 5.10d. I thought about putting 11a/b, because that would stir the pot too much, but my honest opinion is my honest opinion and I don't want to mince that too much.
Jul 14, 2003
I am not so tall at 5'9"... But this isn't even height dependent. This is a good 11d route for someone of my size, but the people that are 5'2" aren't going to be doing the same move as those over 6', not that they usually can on reachy routes. I don't think this was a chipped route, and was a fairly interesting and burney route for me.
Sep 6, 2002
I couldn't detect any chipped holds and the bolts are some of the better spaced at the Sport Park. I'm tall so the reach was easy, so in my book it is 11c and gets *** Cory
May 16, 2002
- Go Dog Go
One of my favorite routes at Sport Park. This gives Butt Lucious an interesting direct finish. I skip the next to last bolt in the middle of the crux. It takes more energy to clip it than it's worth, considering it is a clean fall. It is a nice dog bolt to work the moves. Some people do clip it. Great moves & not with big holds. Small edges, an undercling, & a high step.
May 10, 2015
- Hair Shirt
I believe I was the person that introduced Kaelen Williams to this crag & this route. I feel I should defend this climb & critique this post. First, calling these manufactured holds ugly is a matter of opinion & one I don't share. This climb is a masterpiece with big moves & fun holds to climb on. The large hueco in the ceiling looks natural. As for this route & others at the Clock Tower that have some manufactured holds, I have enjoyed many days of great training here. Where I don't usually advocate such tactics as the liberal use of chipping or manufacturing holds, this crag was a pile covered black shit below the blank overhangs. Chris & Rick turned this crag into a wonderful sport crag. The tactics used here aren't appropriate at most crags or routes, but in a free society, there is room enough for such climbs to exist just like we have different religions, political views, & porn. As for the crux getting over the lip, the direct line is the intended line done by the first ascentionist. These funky moves are on natural holds. I have only redpointed the climb once this way & normally take the indirect line. As for the grade, the direct line is .12c/d versus the indirect line is .12b. The direct line may be easier if you are short, but the dynos getting to here won't be. The indirect line at the lip, moves left to Jolly Jug for a final dyno & then steps back right onto Hair Shirt, using all the same bolts. Where I do use a few holds on Jolly Jug, it is not the same moves as on that route as I am further right.
Jul 20, 2015
Nice dyno though?
Aug 4, 2008
- Hee Haw
This route was originally rated .11d not 5.12a & it is not the leftmost bolt line. The leftmost route, called "Ditch Witch" is rated .12a or .12b. Ditch Witch shares the 1st bolt & then climbs the leftmost bolt line. It is essentially Hee Haw revisited with a separate finish to higher anchor, unless you climb the upper part of the route to the left of the bolts (.12b). Chris Alber climbed it on the left. Squeezed & contrived. As for Hee Haw, it is the second route from the left. I'm sticking to the .11d rating. There is big reach move or dyno off an undercling past the 4th bolt. Then past the 5th bolt, is another move off an undercling with poor feet to make a final reach. A harder climb than "Animal Magnetism" or its neighbor "Leave It To Beaver" in my opinion. It is powerful for a stretch.
Jul 28, 2017
- Infa-Red Riding Hood
Not that I'd bring a rack up to Sport Park, but this could easily and safely be led on gear. You could get a piece in up high before pulling the crux move or two. And it's definitely a 10 crux, albeit short. Why rate it 8+ just because you're angry that it's a bolted crack? Especially after you just (apparently) climbed it yourself?
Aug 6, 2010
Why the bag of sand? True, crack and face differ, but the crux was definitely 5.10a for a couple moves. I suppose if you are wearing tape on your hand it would be easier.... I didn't tape up and ended up with less skin and blood than when I started.
Sep 26, 2009
Another bolted crack, whats up with that, overrated, 10a if you're a sport climber who never climbed a crack, more like 5.8+/9- in the real world.
May 18, 2009
- Jolly Jug
Most of climbing is 5.11 & easier. The crux at the lip of the overhang is pretty aggro. I used to have an much easier time repeating Go Dog Go, No Doze, or Hair Shirt (indirect variation) than repeating Jolly Jug. Inflation on the New Economy Cliff in Clear Creek has a huge dyno, & I find it easier to send than Jolly Jug. There is more than one way to do the crux. The dyno method is how I've always done it. There is a good hueco jug to dyno off to a horizontal slot. There is an intermediate pebble. If you over shoot the slot, you will most likely not catch it & fall off.
Aug 5, 2017
If you can look past the bat droppings all over the ground, bat shit all over the start of the route, and blatantly manufactured holds, it's actually quite enjoyable climbing. Pulling the roof move is pretty burly and powerful, especially for the super soft Sport Park Grades. 5.12s at the Sport Park are really 5.10, but this route packs a punch at the roof and is surprisingly pumpy. I'm not gonna lie, I did have fun on this route.... The only way I'm ever gonna climb on it again is to powerwash the whole first half. Bat poo on your hands in no fun, and it smells like 2 rats humping in a wool sock....
Jun 22, 2012
This thing would be super classic in the gym; very well-manufactured and burly!
Aug 2, 2007
- Leave it to Beaver
The first bolt is the high bolt left of the Beaver Fever. This route was established before Hee Haw. Clip the 1st bolt after pulling up on a jug to the left. Climb up to the left side of a small shelf or "broad horizontal". Hand traverse right on the shelf & stretch up to clip the 2nd bolt. Move a bit more right, & continue up the left-facing corner. Hee Haw's 1st bolt is really too low & too far left to protect the start. You would definitely clip Hee Haw's first 2 bolts & then move right on the hand traverse. Hee Haw's 2nd bolt is a bit higher than the 1st bolt on Leave It To Beaver, so this is the more protected way to start. This route offers sustained climbing with the crux, past the 5th bolt, reaching off an undercling pinch hold over a small roof.
Jul 28, 2017
This climb doesn't let off. It's a good climb that isn't a overhung, letting the arms rest a bit compared to all the other climbs in the area.
Jul 13, 2010
- Mother Goose
Really fun and worthy route. Good solid 5.10 pump. A little tentative at first clipping the third bolt, but found a really solid hold and it turned out to be reasonable. The crux holds are right below the second overhang and after a high step on the big ledge the holds above are very positive. The steep headwall above has good holds. I moved left a little, almost over to the next route, and then finishing up on very solid and satisfying jugs. Don't miss it.
Aug 28, 2010
This is a fun route. I was surprised by the strenuous work required to pull over the two roofs.
Sep 7, 2009
- Mutant Overload
Great pitch with a few manufactured holds. There are two ways to do the crux at 6th bolt. The more direct way using the undercling for the left hand then dynoing to the jug with the right has always felt quite hard (.12d). This is how I climbed it numerous times over the years. In 2012, I figured out I could traverse left another move to to big sidepull flake & then reach the jug. The way is less obvious but easier to execute (.12c). Please note: the first 5.12 section past 3rd bolt has gotten a bit harder in 2016, due to a small foothold breaking. This doesn't change the overall grade, but if you were used to the way this move felt, be ready for a surprise.
May 10, 2015
- No Doze
Yes, there are some manufactured holds on this routes & a few crimpers that make me wonder if they were improved from their original state, but so what! If you saw this route before it was established or even after it was first climbed, you wouldn't care. The bottom part of the route was covered in bat shit. After the route was cleaned & decomposed flakes that were permeated with shit were pried off, this route became a masterpiece. One of the best climbs at Sport Park offering sustained overhanging climbing with a variety of holds & moves. It has a wild crux dyno past the 4th bolt.
Apr 6, 2017
Possibly the most "comfortable" route ever. Almost every hold on this route seemed suspect to me, but it is what it is so enjoy it. To boycott it or complain about it would be to even further disrespect this poor piece of granite. Two enthusiastic thumbs up to the manufacturer...er...route setter... or whatever.
Oct 16, 2007
I really think this is a great route. The branches are not missing because of the climbers...the hold was comfortized which sucks, but the climbing is great.... I posted that this route was comparable to Lucid Dreaming, and after doing both in the same day, I have to say that they both fit my style, feel easy and are probably both 12c. They both seem just as hard as the more bouldery 12c routes at Rifle like Drunken Monkey and harder than Ruckus.
Aug 28, 2006
Hard-12a or soft-12b. To whoever mentioned it, this is nowhere near as hard as Lucid Dreaming. 2-3 star route if this were the BRC, so some will like it, but pretty blatant chipping on this one.
Jul 21, 2005
Welcome to the Sport Park, this is the place to go to grab your "hardest" ascents. I still think some of the routes are fun despite the grading/chipping etc.
Jun 15, 2005
From CA here - Haven't climbed this route but my experience with the Sport Park was that the grades were pretty damned soft. And routes like Mentor or Easy Skanking (two of the most famous 12b's I've been on) aren't particularly rough for the grade. You can find much harder 12b's out there if you go looking - MUCH harder.
Jun 14, 2005
Same difficulty as Lucid Dreaming...12c
May 14, 2005
Jim Redo makes a good point. Is someone really trying to make the case that "No Doze" is as hard as Smith Rock's "Chain Reaction" (12c)? Absolutely no way. If you were to drop Rifle's "Pretty Hate Machine", VRG's "Mentor", or Cave Rock's "Fire in the Hole" (all classic sport climbs originally rated 12b) at some of the newer Boulder Canyon crags, it seems to me they would all be rated 12d or 13a. I guess it comes down to the question of whether or not the old timers were just sandbagging, or whether grade inflation is a problem around these parts. At any rate, there is value in trying to keep consistent ratings, and I appreciate knowing when people think a rating is out of line.It doesn't make the route any less fun (if you thought it was fun in the first place), so there is no need to get upset over the rating issue.
Sep 20, 2002
I'm not trying to be pretentious when I downgraded a few routes on this site. It just seems that the newer routes that have gone up in the Front Range in the 5.12 range are grossly overrated. Compare some of these routes to some of the older established climbs. Do you really think "No Doze" is as hard as "Powerbulge"? Steep doesn't mean hard.
Sep 20, 2002
Regarding ratings, to keep your self honest - use the following scale/conversion. Gunks 5.9+ = Sport Park 11c.
Aug 28, 2002
12a only. Chipped pile.
Aug 21, 2002
For chipped holds, you might want to add the large horn itself and who knows what else between the start and the lip of the roof. I would like to know what was there before it got hacked. Maybe a really hard climb instead of a height-dependent chipped 12b.
Jul 23, 2001
I felt that the guidebooks rating of 12c is quite generous. It was more like 5.12a.
Jan 1, 2001
- Pump Truck
A very cool crux. The route has 100% natural holds. The overhanging climbing up to the 3rd bolt & crux isn't very hard. Then get ready for 2 bolts of powerful, technical moves. Wear pants for the left leg lock. If you pre hang a long sling on the 4th bolt, you can have overhead protection for the hardest moves.
Apr 6, 2017
- Salad Shooter
- Three Little Pigs
This was my first 5.11 onsight, and I am 5'7". No big deal, if you're jumpin' on 11's, it's an easy 11. The clip is shitty but not insecure.
Aug 18, 2011
Must do, what a blast! This one is way chill if your 6 foot or taller for the high clips. Shorter folks would definitely have a R rated lead ahead of them.
Jul 24, 2011
We top roped this climb after leading Mother Goose and really enjoyed it. An onsight lead of this climb would be a bold and dangerous undertaking. The first crux is protected well enough, I guess, but Ben is right. Clipping that second bolt would raise the difficulty a letter grade. At the second 11 move, that bolt is really a stretch. Lauren has it right when she points out the out of reach bolts at both the second and third 11 sections. It looks like one has to climb halfway through the third crux before the clip can be made. That said, the steep upper wall had some really good moves similar to the crux moves on "The Other One". Our plan is to try the lead with quickdraws in place. In no way was this climb a waste of time. Even guys watching from the Big Dipper said it looked like fun. Just top rope it first.
Sep 4, 2010
The climbing on it was pretty good, but the bolting was idiotic. The second bolt forces a contrived clipping crux. Poorly bolted. Interesting granite pockets too, but I guess I'm several years too late to the party.
Aug 6, 2010
I found the first two cruxes of the route very fun. They make the route well worth doing. I did find that the third bolt was a dangerous clip. Unless you're about 5'8" or taller, you can't clip from the stance on the ledge. A fall from that ledge would involve hitting the ledge then going headfirst/rolling off onto the deck. The third crux was somewhat frustrating as the clip was too high for me to get from the good ledge. The third crux is suitable for a colder, stickier day. I suggest adding a bolt between the 2nd and 3rd existing bolts or stick-clipping to the 3rd.
May 11, 2010
- Forbidden Fruit Crag
- Forbidden Fruit
- High Test
Seems chipped.
May 23, 2016
- King Of The Highway
Comparing today's climb vs Bob's book, there are 5 routes on the crag, he lists 4. So, for the uninitiated, THIS is the second from the left route, between Percocet Arete and High Test. (Percocet Arete is just left around the corner.) The route description here on MP is right. [Bob doesn't show this route is his book and confusingly lost the High Test name; but MP doesn't show the 5th route on the right of the face, which Bob calls Knocking on Heaven's Door, 5.11c.] So, High Test is the obvious overhanging rib left of Forbidden Fruit crack with 6 or 7 bolts to a 2 bolt [w chain] anchor. Bob has it labeled as route #49. KOTH starts down and left of High Test. Obviously there is a name/route error somewhere. Maybe someone who has climbed Knocking on Heaven's Door could post-up the route?
Aug 13, 2011
- Knocking on Heaven's Door
- Percocet Arete
- Overhung Wall
- Eternal Vigilance
This route needs more traffic. It climbs like a gem for 12b. A little dirty still but a great route. I was here on a Sunday, with the whole pullout packed with cars, and we were the only two people at this nice, morning shady wall. By far the best wall at Sport Park. Again needs more traffic to clean up this route, but it climbs very well.
Jun 2, 2013
- Invisible Touch
That system was used in other areas and guides instead of letters, for as long as you and I have been climbing and longer. In fact, it predates the use of letters in grades, as you should know after 43 years. I.e. 5.9-, 5.9, 5.9+. Or i.e. 12-, 12, 12+ instead of 12a,b,c,d.... It is less specific in that case, subdivided into 3 grades instead of 4. On THIS SITE, 12- is between 12a and 12b, and 12+ is between 12c and 12d, more or less in line with how I use it. This site is what is relevant here. I don't generally see fit to subdivide the 5.12 grade, since I am an onsight climber with 5.12 as my very upper end, the difference between 12a and 12b might be tough for me to tell. I rated it, for all whatever, to be 12a/b on your scale. Consensus is 12b/c. WTF is the difference worth arguing about? A single letter grade? Or a letter grade and a half if you insist that it is absolutely 12c? Do we have to discuss, in detail, every single grade we disagree on in the comments section? It should be OK if people don't agree with you 100%. If their ratings are grossly out of line, it will show.
Aug 13, 2015
Tony, your interpretation of .12- is new & strange to me. After 43 years of climbing, I have always thought that .12a & .12- were exactly the same rating. 5.12 & .12b/c are the same rating. 5.12d & .12+ are the same rating. I think this climb is at least 5.12 or .12b/c.
Aug 13, 2015
Ha. Well, in turn, I never never rated this route 12a until Mark Rolofson posted it on this website. I put on the website as "12-", as in: "the easier side of 12", but not necessarily 12a. I am not generally a 12+ leader, so I figured it to the bottom side of 12s. Hopefully you didn't take offense to me having an opinion, regardless.
Feb 18, 2014
This route is not 5.12a and was never rated that until Tony Bubb posted it on this website. Originally it was documented as .12d in a "Rock & Ice" Front Range Climbing Guide. After climbing the route, I rated it 5.12c in my "1993 Boulder Sport Climbers Guide". After returning to it last fall, I am still calling it that. It is quite hard at the 1st bolt & also past the 4th & 5th bolt.
Feb 18, 2014
This is currently not the rightmost route on the Overhung Wall; it is the second from the right. There is a hard move at the start, and a stick clip is very useful.
Nov 27, 2010
- Warf Factor
I didn't heed the advice for pants/kneepads, 'cause I thought I was tough. Turns out I'm not. On my OS attempt the kneebar cut me up enough that on my redpoint burn I taped over it. I recommend pants, kneepads, or being tougher than I. Fun route!
Aug 27, 2011
Can't comment on the knee-bar, but the full-on dyno up with the left from the same holds is big fun .12- at the hardest. Really fun, short line.
Jun 19, 2011
When I first did this route, we called this area Surprising Crag... because none of the routes where chipped our over-bolted like the Sports Park, and I hope the routes are still the same way when I did the first ascents. :) Jesse
Jun 4, 2010
This climb is awesome. Doesn't look like it gets much traffic since it had almost no chalk on it when we began working it. *Beta* The kneebar crux is really unique, you have to get the body position just right or that next hold will feel too far away. Wear pants or a pad, even with pants my left knee is all cut up.
Jul 30, 2008
This is by far the best climb at Sport Park that I've been on. Please give me a heads up if you have any other recommendations. Awesome roof to a super rad crux at the lip.
Jul 27, 2008
Fun one-move route.
Aug 21, 2007
- Warm Up
This makes for a fun gear route.
Jun 2, 2016
This is a hard warm-up! For me, the crux involves reaching around the arête at the overhang, reaching out to palm the arête, holding in with a right heel, and throwing for a jug on top of the arête "column". I missed with my right hand and, on TR, caught it with an awkward left hand. The move above the overhang to the last bolt is reachy and balancy, too.
May 8, 2015
This is tough! What are short people doing at the second to last bolt? I was attempting a pretty desperate dyno. My friend who is 6'3" made it look pretty casual.
Aug 27, 2011
I did this route at the same time I did the others on this wall.. Cheers Jesse Guthrie
Jun 4, 2010
- Whippin' Post
This pocket seems to be "natural". Not the usual slick texture that a manufactured hold inhererits. If Jessie is out there listening, is it a drilled pocket? The move can be done without it.
Jun 12, 2011
Pretty fun climbing, despite the very, very, obvious, two finger drilled pocket at the beginning of the crux. What can you say though, it's the sport Park. Worth doing.
May 29, 2011
- Owl Prow
- Ground Zero
This route has gotten much harder since the crimp on the right wall of the corner disintegrated. This is now the crux.
Jul 8, 2013
A crucial hold broke after the third bolt. Now makes pulling up to the 4th significantly harder. I'd say this line is now 11d/12a.
May 12, 2013
Gotta love having to make only 2 moves between each bolt. This was my first 11 lead. Does it still count if I fell/yelled take at every bolt but 2? hehe. Yes, I have no shame. The fact that I led this climbs proves that there is no way that this is 11c! Maybe 10d but not 11c. My name is Tracy Roach and I USED the dyno-scar! Fun climb.
Aug 17, 2004
I was wavering between adding this as a chipped route or not and decided that it should be classified as such because it is at the Sport Park and several routes there are modified and I just wated to add my two cents worth that I think that is super lame. If the operators of this site want to change the route to "non-modified", I won't lose any sleep over it. After all compared to some off the routes up there the large dynamite scar seems subtle. My comment above should say "at least Ground Zero has no drilled pockets" I got the names mixed up. Many of the routes at this crag suffer from that awful fate. I do however commend the bolting efforts of many of the FA's at this crag. I was talking with someone recently at Little Eiger who was putting up a new route and he told me: "I'm putting the bolts really close together on this route for people like you. It looks like you could stroll up the route but it also looks like you could use a girlfriend (I was climbing with two dudes). Closely spaced bolts brings more ladies to the crags and thats something we all want to see."In this regard the sport park rules, I just wanted to say chipping SUCKS!!! With bolts so close why bring down the difficulty?By the way, I probably would have added Spinx Crack as a modified route. :)
Sep 6, 2002
If this is modified because of a dynamite blast, then why isn't the sphinx crack considered modified.
Sep 5, 2002
Weather or not it was actually "chipped", I still enjoyed this climb. I didn't even use the dynamite scar to pull it off. It has a couple of really good moves and a lot of it is crimpy. I don't think that it is rated correctly. This was one of my first 5.11s and I pulled it with relative ease, which surprised me quite a bit. Chipped or not, I'll climb this one again.
Sep 4, 2002
Actually, by the site standards, this is definitely not a chipped route. The "fundamental principle", i.e. the quote in bold on the "This is a modified route" page clearly states that it is the intent of the climber who puts up or climbs the route that makes a route "modified".
May 21, 2002
I'm not chastising anyone, that fact remains that it is altered, not in it's natural state and therefore "Chipped" by this sites standards. I think more of the routes at the Sport Park should be on the black list however. At least Owl on the Prowl has no drilled pockets!.....
May 21, 2002
This is actually a good climb and to blacklist the route because it is on a dynamite scar seems questionable. If the first accentionists modifies the route, that is one thing. But if someone has the insight to turn a scar on the landscape into somthing good, enjoyed by many, and without further damage, I don't think we should chastise them.
Apr 30, 2002
- Linking Logs
There is more than one way to climb this route, so the difficulty ranges from 5.11b to 5.11d. The cool direct line stays on the face & avoids the bat shit crack. One of the photos show the climber spanning from a jug to a edge on the face. This is an easier way to climb the direct line, if you have the wing span. I have always stepped right a few feet lower off a finger lock (avoiding the jug). This way is full value. The easiest line continues from the jug up the right-angling bat shit crack.
Jul 29, 2017
Chipped, but one of the top five chipped routes at the Sport Park.
Jul 8, 2013
I as well accidentally climbed this instead of Owl on the Prow and I liked it more! It is a lot of fun, but I thought it was easier than Owl on the Prow, not sure 11d, but I will take it! Red point, roof is bit heady, but once you figure the holds out, it is a blast, the crux is before it.
Sep 19, 2012
Accidentally climbed this instead of Owl on the Prow. Great climb! If you're feeling in the mood for some technical, shmeary fun, definitely check this one out.
Jul 11, 2010
- Owl JuJu
I was not expecting much, but this route was actually really fun. It had some cool moves and a couple different climbing styles packed into it.
Nov 13, 2016
Such a great climb! Really learned how to put my confidence into a climb and free it. Super rad.
May 6, 2016
- Owl On The Prowl
I found clipping the anchors on this to be the crux. It's got scattered jugs above the second bolt, but it's pumpy up to there and beyond. Pretty great route, altogether. Fun technical stuff mixed with pure burl. Looking at the pictures of folks on the crux on this climb, it clearly goes in many different ways, making it reasonable for those of all heights.
Oct 17, 2009
A short, fun route. A little beta: I used a right-shoulder scum on the first crack/dihedral that worked nicely. Once you get past the third bolt, use the arete to your left. A right toe hook to gain the jug at the top of this arete comes in handy. The rest is jugs or slopers to the top.
Jun 12, 2006
- Recovery Room
- Blackout
I love how all strong climbers compare everything to Rifle. Which is kinda bs because Rifle is known for being funky, sandbagged, hard to read sequences and being just plain weird. Remember you're climbing in Boulder Canyon, home of soft, straightforward climbing. It seems stupid to compare the two. Maybe we should compare all of BC to The Gunks, in that case this route is only 5.10.
Sep 16, 2013
Chipped. Hard to onsight. Grade seems height/reach related, unless you're Jimmy. Best route on the crag, which is obviously a low bar.
Jul 8, 2013
A fun route whatever the grade! A little sharp in places though.
Feb 26, 2004
Jim, the beta is actually Right, Left, Right, Left, Right, Left, Right, Left.
Oct 11, 2002
11d - go to Rifle and see what 12b is really like. Chipped and obvious. Left, right, left, right.
Oct 8, 2002
A great bouldery route with 4 bolts along the way. The route is very straight forward, if the holds are not chalked just think of how a crimpy route would be set in the gym, and you will find the holds, with some reachy moves for shorter (under 5'7") folks. A decent route, I would give it 2 stars. Worth doing.
Sep 18, 2001
- Coffee Pot Crack
MP is a great place to document route information, including the degree of manufacturing, so that people may choose to climb the route or not. Removing routes from the site (as many of the previous posts suggested) would make it even more difficult to keep track and make informed decisions about which routes we choose to support as a community. Thanks "ethics" spectrum
May 26, 2010
That's true, they created what otherwise wouldn't exist. Unlike the route developers who chip (vandalize) existing rock to make it climbable.
Nov 28, 2005
Why does the Boulder Climbing community accept a guidebook with worthless charcoal artwork(questionable) graphics? Because someone painstakingly went to the trouble to produce it otherwise it would not exist.
Aug 13, 2002
It sounds like this route should be removed from both the site and the cliff. Publicity and acceptance equals legitimacy.
Aug 1, 2002
Why does the 'Boulder climbing community' accept chipped routes? If you allow it to remain, then you are accepting it.
Jul 29, 2002
I agree. Artificial routes should not be published and should be filled as a public service.
Oct 24, 2001
Can we stop adding chipped routes to the site? Publicity equals legitimacy.
Sep 24, 2001
The drilled bucket hold, like every other artificial hold in Boulder Canyon, should (and will) be filled in. What a pathetic excuse for a route. While these over the hill dudes with power drills may be prolific, they are usually totally lame. Let's get some new (young) route developers out there who can advance the sport by climbing natural rock.
Sep 19, 2001
A decent route although the manufactured jug above the 3rd bolt is a bit of overkill. Seriously, did they need something for 2 hands ? A bit of a let down, but if you are here and want a quick clip-up, go nuts, watch the bat shit at the bottom, it may be slick.
Sep 18, 2001
- Jaws
Actually thought this was a fun little climb. The only downsides are that it's super short and a bit dirty at the start. There are a few variations to the opening moves, but it's sequency either way. Fun layback flake afterwards.
Aug 6, 2010
- Stryker
My opinion... The line left of the bolts on the slab is not even worth doing. 10a? Ha, it's super easy with no redeeming qualities. The line right of the bolts is probably a solid 11, but I found it an annoying slap session with no good feet. Not too enjoyable.
May 20, 2014
- Sky Cafe, The
- Ride the Wind
Glen, where I would rather NOT see the routes on this crag posted on this site, I can't stop you from posting it. That said you have crossed a line by using my route description from "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II" without my written permission that you do not have. This is copyright infringement; even though you did mention the source. That was good. That said I don't want to see my route descriptions used on MP. Please write your own description.
Jul 17, 2015
- Right-facing Dihedral
- Sport Park Slab
- Walk in the Park
This is a fun climb and is like walking up a nice staircase. A 70m rope is about perfect, maybe 3' short on a rappel.
Jun 6, 2016
I got down with one 70m cord brings you about 2 to 3 feet off the ground. Very easy, not worth hauling the extra cord if you have a 70m.
Jul 21, 2011
A fun easy cruise that definitely beats the approach hike. Great beginner trad lead - not sure why it's bolted, but that seems to be how things go in this area. Spiciest section was definitely before the first bolt, where there's an awkward step around a bulge after a steep section. After that, nice cruising with good feet, excellent gear, and bolts if you need them.
Apr 10, 2011
You can't get down from the anchors with a single 70m rope, though it's very close.
Mar 15, 2008
- Stone Cafe, The
- Gruel Shoes
We're not living in 1980s anymore, George. If a route is mostly bolt protected, then it is usually best to make it entirely bolt protected. If a climb is mostly bolt protected but requires a piece of two of gear, it presents a danger unless the gear is at the start. Many climbers will assume it is entirely bolted until they are up on the route. Personally I prefer a sport route to mixed gear & bolts route, unless half or more of the climb requires gear. Ultimately, I believe the first ascentionist has the liberty of deciding how to establish a climb. Calling bolts unnecessary because you can place a cam, is a snobby old school opinion. Many routes have been led or free soloed without the bolts, but other climbers will still appreciate those bolts or find them needed.
Mar 23, 2017
My point about the gear placements is that some of the bolts on this route are unnecessary, especially the one that compromises the carabiner.
Apr 29, 2015
This route was established by Dan Hare. I rope soloed it in 2008 & have repeated it. I didn't find any gear necessary. You can always used a locking biner on the bolt hanger if you are worried about leverage.
Apr 26, 2015
- Reach for the Sky... Cafe
- Rock Lobster
- Stone Soup
- Thanks a Latte'
- Yin Pin (aka Stonefish)
The name of the route is "Yin Pin". I established this route with Sharon Kloepfer on July 13, 2008. I rated it 5.11b. I thought the start had a hard move at the top of the short arête to gain the slab at 4th bolt. The final overhang has interesting moves as well. I did not grab the chains as George did but climbed to where my hands were on top & I could stand on a hold. Interesting that you found the slab dirty. I did wire brush this line. I guess if you stray much it could be lichenous. Perhaps some lichen actually grew back.
Apr 26, 2015
- Surprising Crag
- South Face
- Chasing Sticks
Seemed harder than the supposedly 5.9+ climb to its right. The layback at the top is fairly committing if you go that way, though a slightly easier alternative is to head left and make use of the big crack in the corner.
Sep 14, 2014
About a dozen different ways to do this route and all of them fun and exciting. Great warm-up for the area!
Apr 13, 2014
It is a little run out to the first bolt, but at least you have some rope in the system by the time you clip it? This route can be made more difficult if you jam the left crack (not the dihedral).
Apr 12, 2014
A fun route thats unfortunately just horribly bolted.
Oct 24, 2011
In my opinion, the first bolt was not too exposed. I would have liked it down several feet, but it did not have me extremely nervous. Just my two cents... otherwise it was a very fun climb.
Apr 12, 2010
Fun climb, and a good work out if you work up the second and third bolt as a compression. Also, on the last crack I stemmed off the chimney to the left, which may be off route. Loved the runout at the start.
Aug 25, 2009
The distance before the first bolt can be protected with a small to medium stopper. Other than that a good climb with a very fun layback crack near the top.
Aug 23, 2009
Led this w/ Aliens and med./large stoppers along with clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Makes a good mixed route if you brought your rack.
Aug 30, 2008
As others have said, the climbing is really fun, but the equipper was on crack.
Aug 10, 2008
This is a very fun route, that was poorly bolted.
Oct 26, 2007
Beside the bolts, I thought this climb was pretty fun. Loved the mixed holds and the crack near the chains.
Aug 15, 2007
- Choss Temple Pilots
We saw a ton of chalk on the big flake to the right, but motoring up just left of the bolt line had some nice crimps. Felt more challenging than Monkey Bob or The Touch. Can reach over and set up a toprope on the .11- to the left from the anchors.
Aug 21, 2017
A fun TR variation goes left up the very edge of the arete. Pumpy 5.9 on slopers and crimps.
May 31, 2013
Also skipped the last bolt, didn't make much sense to me where it was. The climb was just so-so, but the exposure on the top half was pretty cool.
Jun 27, 2010
Had fun on this route. Last bolt is poorly placed. Skipped it, and it seemed more logical just to go for the anchors.
May 19, 2010
This isn't a bad route, except that the last bolt is very poorly placed. I got the impression that the bolter was trying to force the route onto the face.
Aug 21, 2007
The crux is a high stepping reachy thing if you follow the bolts. The shorter people I was with found it easier to go left where the step isn't as high.
Oct 3, 2005
For all the negativity surrounding the Sport Park, I enjoyed the climb. A nice route with interesting moves and exposure. 5.8 seemed about right.
Jul 29, 2005
The last comment is why the Sport Park is the best climbing in front range...bolted cracks...sick...z-clipping off of ledges...the sickest...the only part that they are leaving out is that route was originally rated 13a because some wanker really wanted to "climb 13" so they put their own up.
Jun 22, 2005
The bolts on this route were quite badly placed. Had to clip the second one while in the middle of a jam and got my rope all twisted up. The third bolt is useless. By the time you can clip it, you're already standing on the ledge, and reaching the 4th bolt is no problem from that position. Getting over the roof is the crux. If you're tall, just grab a huge jug off to the right, no footwork required.
Jun 21, 2005
It climbs more like a 5.9.
Jul 22, 2002
Fun climb, I'd tack on another star.
May 14, 2002
- Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive
I think this is the most logically bolted route on the crag, which is sort of unfortunate since almost the entire thing could be protected (and the crux would be pretty ballsy if it was runout instead of bolted halfway through). The small hands-and-fingers crack at the beginning makes this extra-cool, though the giant ledge halfway through is a little bit anticlimactic.
Oct 18, 2009
Led the right corner variation with a purple alien to protect the initial move into the crack, then a #1 and a #4 Camalot. Good hand jams - just too short.
Aug 30, 2008
- Double Down
Left a black chalkbag. Please text 720-982-3548 if found. Thanks!
Nov 28, 2017
Silly route, but the upper bolted face next to two cracks was fun, or at least all 15ft of it.
Aug 21, 2017
Without the bolts up the face, the climb is less than inspiring...fun/bouldery start if you can "suffer" through the bolts.
Sep 21, 2010
By being bolted, you get to do one interesting face move at the start (I'm short, so getting to the good hands was a bit tenuous). After that, the route is uninteresting.
Sep 3, 2009
Did the 7 crack variation with good gear all the way. Good beginner gear route.
Sep 1, 2008
It's a shame that this was bolted. A prime example of the over bolting done at sport park...Other than that it's easily protected all the way to the anchors. Makes a nice first trad lead.
Jun 19, 2008
A waste of good hardware. This is one of the most contrived routes in the park, and the bolts spoil the natural corner right next to it. It felt like 5.8 without using the corner. I really wish people would think more carefully before bolting right next to natural lines. Not every square inch of rock needs a bolt.
Aug 21, 2007
- Dutch Oven
We climbed most of the routes to the left and right and felt this one was the most challenging.
Aug 21, 2017
I have no idea what the person above is talking about, this isn't greasy at all. In fact, I lost skin in the crack at the bulge due to the grittiness of the rock, and the holds leading up to it are super positive. Not the greatest route, but it's a fun little warm-up.
Oct 31, 2014
So freaking greasy... tried this on a cold day, I'd hate to think about this on a hot day. I slipped off a couple of holds when I grabbed them and ended up throwing a heel up. Don't commit to any single move with your hands below the first few bolts.
Sep 27, 2014
Fun warm-up, another high first clip, but there are fun crack variations to be had on this one.
Apr 13, 2014
- Fix, The
I found this route to be fun despite the chipped holds. The roof is interesting and a little pumpy. The technical crux came after the roof when I tried to avoid using the possibly chipped pocket through the blank face (although the pocket is less obviously chipped than other holds higher on this route, maybe because spiders have inhabited it). I was able to avoid using chipped holds the whole way up until the jug just below the anchors. I did not know this was a chipped hold until I grabbed it. I think it would be fun and challenging to try to finish this climb without using that hold. It's a true bummer that someone chipped this climb, because it is pretty fun and obviously needed no modifications.
Mar 22, 2011
I'd say 11a if you go directly over the roof, a little less if you move to the right, then hand traverse back left. I don't think I've ever seen such perfect holds in granite.
Aug 29, 2004
If you are correct, Alan, and I don't doubt that you are, then the chipping/drilling really is more than foaming at the mouth. The upper pocket is clearly unnecessary - the jugs can be reached easily from the thin seam (was it chipped?). If the hand traverse over the roof has been chipped then that also seems unnecessary since it will go with a short dodge to the left. Now in the case we are talking about, the chipping/drilling entails hacking a line down to 10+ where all of the chipping/drilling was utterly unnecessary. If this riles the climbing community in general, then this is not surprising, and I will side with the principle of solving nature's problems as they come to us - clean as a whistle. Isn't that our job?
Jan 23, 2002
- Frictionary
The friction move at the crux (third bolt) was a lot harder than 5.7, I thought. One of my teammates is 6'4" with a +2 and had no trouble (he also leads 5.11c). I'm 5'8 with a -2 and really struggled. Maybe I'm just too scared of a leader? Maybe the move would have been easier for me on TR? For those of your considering this as a first lead, make sure you have excellent slab technique... or be 6'6".
Nov 5, 2017
Fun warm-up, the arete seemed easier than further right.
Aug 21, 2017
I agree with Paul. (BETA) The arete has steeper more committing moves, but if you go right, you end up in the blank friction zone. Felt like a pretty solid 5.7 even as short as it is.
Aug 26, 2013
Frictionary was my second climb ever. I really dug that jazz. It was a great start, then half way up it becomes smear city, but all around good. I'll be returning. Sterling-
May 24, 2011
Really fun route, for what it is. Stay on the arete for the best line. People sometimes put down the climbing here, but I really like the rock quality.
Jun 25, 2010
My girlfriend and I decided to try this place out today. We did about a half dozen of the moderates, up to mid 5.10, and thought this was the best route of all of them. The route follows an obvious, uncontrived path, and it is bolted intelligently. The moves are also very fun.
Aug 21, 2007
Good beginning lead, but you have to trust your feet as there aren't as many hand holds on the slab. Would like to get back to sport park for some ot the good moderate routes.
Jun 25, 2004
This is probably the easiest sport lead in the Canyon (that I know about anyhow). It is perfect to build confidence and if you want to make it more interesting you can stay on the face instead of going left around the arrete.
Jul 11, 2003
I would strongly recommend this climb for those very new to sport climbing. An easy climb, all of the bolts are easy to clip, and a great view from the top. This was my first sport route, so I will always have fond memories of it.
Aug 1, 2002
- Hood Surfing In Socks
I think this route is going to be really hard for folks shorter and with less reach than me. (5'6" +1 ape). As for on/off, IMHO avoiding the two small crimps on the bolt line up to the terrible dish on the right and the undercling crimp on the left, using only feet on the face? makes an ascent pretty pointless.
May 23, 2016
Question on what's on/off: does the intended line ignore the stemming possibilities off to the right, along with the pocket on the far right? That is to say, does one go off the two small crimps on the bolt line up to the terrible dish on the right and the undercling crimp on the left, using only feet on the face?
Nov 9, 2014
Definitely a hard move due to the nearly non-existent feet. Big moves at the crux and strong fingers are a must. Very easy before and after that though.
Sep 7, 2010
Good climb, hard crux. I thought this route was a little harder than the roof/layback to the right of it......little more thought provoking and also hard not to bail out to the right or left to easier terrain. Fun climb, I would say the crux move is .11d
Apr 28, 2007
Fun crux... pretty hard I thought!
Oct 27, 2003
- Killer Fish Taco
There were definitely some thin, thoughtful moves on the upper face.
Sep 16, 2014
Led KFT last Thurs. June 2nd on a perfect day. Loved it. Bolts are well located. The only real committing part is the move over the flake, which is solid. I thought it easier than the move at the same level on CTP. The upper half is a blast with good holds and elegant moves. Above the flake, I stepped left then up to a good stance. Had to make a long reach back right to clip the bolt for the crux move. High step back right onto a couple more good feet, then reach the lower horizontal crack. Hard finishing move, too. I say, if you stay within reach of the bolt line, you're on route. My partner thought I wandered a little too close to CTP, said the pure line was directly up the bolts. What do you guys think?
Jun 5, 2011
My first 11 onsight, and it felt soo good. Super balancy and tenuous I truly thought my foot would pop at any time and I would go sailing.
May 11, 2011
Fun moves at the top. Fury went for the delicate tooth and nail dance at the crux, and I went for the dyno. Either way, great route with a puzzling, balancy crux.
Aug 31, 2010
Very fun route, there's a sweet heel hook at the top.
Jun 14, 2009
...I said it here because it was brought up here, and I did not notice anything obviously chipped.
Mar 31, 2004
Go to the page for "The Fix" and you will see that several experienced climbers/route developers came to the same conclusion regarding the modified nature of that route. Greaser, if you are so sure that your assertion is correct, why don't you set the record straight on that page.
Mar 31, 2004
"A few of the holds have questionable origins". What, are they bastards, or were they made in china or smuggeled in from cuba with a bunch of cigars. No, they are not chipped. There are only 4 or 5 routes out of the 50 or so there that are chipped. Four are on the clock tower and one is up the hill above this climb. Some agressive cleaning on the owl prow (I think).
Mar 31, 2004
The route is called "The Fix" at 5.11a. I am guessing that a few of the holds have questionable origins.
Mar 30, 2004
Anyone know the name and rating of the route to the right of this one, that goes over the roof?
Mar 30, 2004
Easy climbing below the protruding flake leads to some fun slab climbing. The bolts are well placed, so slap on some QDs and have a good time! I'd say the upper face warrants an 5.11b rating if you stay on route.
Jul 17, 2003
This was given a .10b rating when it was first done, I think the guide book has a misprint. (Still, a nice route)
Apr 30, 2002
- Monkey Bob
Steep for the grade with large jugs everywhere, a fun one.
Aug 21, 2017
Bring sling up for anchors as two quickdraws will not be equalized.
Jul 21, 2016
The first bolt is a little high/awkward, at least if you're short (I'm 5'2"). I ended up clipping the first bolt on the route to the left before I reached over to the first on Monkey Bob. Throughout it felt a little run-out with dangerous fall zones. It was a fun route, but I wouldn't put a very beginner leader on it.
Feb 9, 2015
Super fun route, the overhang at the start is the crux, and it's smooth sailing from there on.
Apr 13, 2014
- Platinum Curl
Beta? The left foot jib is so tiny. This might be a shoe-dependent route. Has anyone tried it with a high, far left foot dropknee?
Nov 11, 2017
One move wonder over the small overhang easier climbing before and after.
Aug 21, 2017
Totally reach dependent, this felt like 10+ for me...I do NOT onsight 11s this easily.
Jan 3, 2012
Easy climbing with one tough move, 11b.
Dec 1, 2009
You people make me laugh, come on 11-/11a?
Aug 22, 2008
I climbed this a couple years ago, and I only rarely climb 11a.
Apr 8, 2005
Fun climb! Who cares if you think it's overrated!
Jul 17, 2003
I climbed it, and I can't climb 5.12. The ratings in the whole area seemed off a little. Probably 5.11-.
May 5, 2003
The flake is a pretty sweet move. Probably not a 5.12a though.
Sep 4, 2002
Jeff, we jumped on this 11/12/01 and I thought it was 5.11d for the squeeze needed to get the right foot in place.
Nov 13, 2001
- South Crack
- Touch, The
We climbed about 10 routes on the cliff, and this was one of the better lines.
Aug 21, 2017
Yes, seven bolts.
May 6, 2016
I thought this was challenging for the grade but super fun with some really cool features. The guidebook lists this as having 5 bolts, and I think it's listed here as 6, but I remember 7 bolts?
Aug 9, 2012
Probably the best line on the cliff. Sustained, fun moves throughout. Good first lead, as you can practice nut and cam placement. Don't expect to climb it on a busy weekend. Step left out onto the face ASAP after the double crack/corner ends for the most exciting line.
Jun 25, 2010
Gave this one three stars if led on gear. Beta: Used a No.4 to protect the first move into the crack, then a large stopper a little higher up. Two small but trucker stoppers in the left seam protect the crux, which I thought was exiting the hand crack. Head right, place a No. 2 then step up to the roof and place a small cam or two for the easy traverse back left. Exit the roof and it's all good. Very satisfying.
Sep 1, 2008
A good route. Makes a fun lead with some interesting moves.
Oct 8, 2004
This entire climb can be easily and safely led using gear. After the fun handcrack start, step right and get under the roof. Place a cam and move left to turn the roof and arrive at the anchors. Mike.
Apr 21, 2003
One of the better routes on Surprising Crag - clean, uncontrived, actually well-bolted (not too over-bolted and they aren't in stupid places), and it might even be 5.8
Jun 4, 2002
- Vitamin V
This one was definitely fun, and (I thought) much easier than it looks from the ground. Seemed about 5.9.
Jun 27, 2010
First day to the park. On-site lead Vitamin V. Wish I could say I agree with the ratings. In my very limited experience, I would give it a 5.8-. Fun climb! I'll be back for more of it and its neighbors.
Jul 16, 2007
Has some fun moves. Definitely surprisingly stiffer than it looks from the ground.
Jul 29, 2005
- Wavy Gravy
This one felt the same if not a touch easier than the climb to the right to us.
Aug 21, 2017
The climb only has a couple of 10a moves on it. Could be good for someone breaking into the grade.
Nov 24, 2014
Another kinda sketchy first bolt. Not worse than any of the others on this crag, but a stick clip would be nice if you are not comfortable with high first bolts. Getting there is never that bad, it just looks high from the ground.
Apr 13, 2014
- West Face
- Amber
Felt sustained and technical, similar to Mercy Drilling to the right, but harder!
Sep 10, 2016
- American Beauty
Incredible line! Perfect holds, nice clipping stances, great movement, and a good rest before the tricky crux at the end. Classic!
Aug 5, 2017
Here is alternative short person beta for the crux at the top. Up the crack, reach right to an edge, bridge right foot to dish. Left hand to a small face hold, right hand to the outside edge (to the right of the seam), then left hand to the edge that the right hand was on. Then you are standing on the right foot, and the rest is reasonable. I think it is probably 12a; mostly it was hard to figure out and what seemed like reasonable alternatives didn't work for me.
Apr 2, 2017
Crux is very height-dependent. For reference, I'm 5'7" with 0 ape-index. I tried going straight up from the pocket like Mark Rolofson said, but it doesn't matter how high I smear, I'm about an inch or two away from the shallow seam right of the bolt line. If I use the finger crack on the left, I can't use the good finger lock higher up, I have to keep my hand lower in the right-most part of the crack, in order to get two pads on the very bottom of the shallow seam (I'm fully extended at this point with not an inch to spare). From there, it's a very chin-to-the-rock balancy move to transition from the left hand crack to the right hand seam. Anyone with less than my wingspan will not be able to reach the seam from the left finger crack and will have to work out some pretty hard beta (hand-foot match in the pocket, like mentioned above?).
Jan 6, 2016
I agree with the above comment that Chris makes. If this route were in Eldo or a more "respectable" crag in BoCan, it would be 4-stars and highly sought after. I hadn't been to the Sport Park in years and figured I'd go and check it out again just for the hell of it. I'm glad I did, because my eye was immediately draw to this line, and I'm also a sucker for Grateful Dead references! So yes, say what you will about the sport park, but this is a quality line on BOMBER rock (aside from the first 10' maybe) with great climbing and a devious crux sequence. Wharf Factor down the hill is a great pitch as well.
Apr 6, 2015
Great route with a brilliant crux sequence that is super fun. I have done a lot of routes at Sport Park, and this is one of the best. The stone is gorgeous! Do it....
Jun 5, 2012
As the first ascentionist of this 100% natural line, the route goes straight up the face. The crack on "PowerLine Pup" is off limits for making the moves even though I often use it to rest while standing on the horizontal break. Here is the beta. Left hand goes in the shallow, large pocket. Right hand on a small edge. Feet are on the good horizontal break to start. Bring the right foot up to a good edge one foot above the break. Left foot on a tiny edge. Reach a fingertip lock in the bottom of a shallow seam. Sorry, shortie, this route is not for you. Left foot goes up again onto a tiny edge that curves up left. Stand on this foot and bring the right foot into the shallow pocket on top of or right of your fingers. Pull your fingers out of way and reach a good fingertip lieback. Stand up and clip last bolt. Finishing is easier with a moderate 5.11 move. I have done this route many times and so has my first ascent partner, Chris Alber. In fact, I do it about twice a year. Often it is easy, but sometimes I can't do it and it is due to the shoes I am wearing. The tiny left foothold requires a tight shoes with a square edge. Sloppy shoes and worn out edges don't work. The short climber method is to use the crack on "Powerline Pup" and move right. It is still 5.12b, but it is definitely easier than the intended line.
Aug 6, 2010
Perfect rock, cool laybacking down low, sneaky sequence up high. Do it to it! A lovely climb.
Jul 11, 2010
This is an excellent route. How ironic that a lengthy discussion on chipping should occur in relation to this route, which is not chipped. If this climb were located on a less controversial crag it would be highly regarded and quite popular.
Jun 30, 2008
Pretty silly that the chipping/overbolted discussion is going on for this particular route which is neither chipped, nor overbolted. Since Chris asked for beta, here's mine: Very technical. At the 2nd to last bolt, right hand in the pod, left hand in the highest good fingerlock in the crack out left. Stem left as high as possible and right hand/foot match in the pod. Bring right hand up to slopey layaway near the seam (the best part has a tiny thumb catch). Bring left hand up higher to a thin flaring part of the left crack, then bump left foot up higher. At this point you are pretty stretched out. Crank off the right layaway and pull your weight over your right foot and grab a thin crimp above your head with your left. Move with the right to the good part of the seam and clip the last bolt. For my length this felt like mid-12, but if you can't reach from the left crack this would be WAY harder, involving moving directly up from the pod to the seam with no feet. Very height dependent, and one of those routes that it doesn't make sense to give a letter grade.
Oct 11, 2004
Geez, it's so good to know Matt and Bob are pals.
Oct 4, 2004
Sorry Matt, Andrew, Rich, Nate, etc. I apologize for going off, and I'll try to clarify myself better in the future. The route American Beauty is difficult, beautiful and (I think) natural. Chris asked for beta and instead got grief from people who hadn't done the route. Not all routes are chipped, overrated, etc. at the sport park, and climbers are not guilty just for having fun there. I don't support chipping and I hope that chipping is discontinued, as Bob D. thinks has happened.
Mar 2, 2003
Bob, I must admit that I completely agree with your view of Rifle. I have climbed there quite a bit and think its completely over-rated. And the way some of the routes were manufactured is quite ridiculous! I suppose people got all psyched on Rifle because it was a limestone crag right here in Colorado! But I have climbed there and enjoyed some of the better routes. I would be bummed if someone slammed me as a climber just because I climbed at Rifle where some of the routes are manufactured. In the same way its not fair to slam people who climb at the Sport Park. But I think its fair to question the way the area has been developed just as its fair to question other areas such as Rifle. Hey everyone, I appreciate the forum here and am really psyched when we can all have a discussion about topics that mean a lot to us without resorting to childish name-calling. Take care.
Mar 1, 2003
Matt, I agree with you that its important to slam the issue and not the people. But I don't think you should apologize for expressing your view on the Sport Park and other areas like it. In fact I think you'll find that a high number of climbers agree with you. Lets face it...the Sport Park is seen as sort of a joke by many people in the climbing world. Hey I could care less if people want to go climb there...but the people who developed it should have been prepared for the fall-out that this sort of developement on public land would bring. Its too bad that they were not a little more responsible...I think with some care and forethought the Sport Park could have been another fine little crag in Boulder Canyon.Instead it was turned into an over-bolted joke of a climbing area where you can go to pad your already inflated climbing ego....sort of like we used to do in the climbing gym scene...now we can go outside and get the same effect! Hey I'm not slamming the people who enjoy climbing there... Chris said it best...the Sport Park is in fact "overbolted/overrated." Question to Matt and anyone else who has any beta. Has there been any fall-out from the Land Management on this issue???
Mar 1, 2003
12c Sport Park....11d in the real world?
Mar 1, 2003
No need to apologize Chris. These guys (Rich, Matt, Nate, Andrew) are the same guys who jumped you while trick or treating (in second grade) and stole your candy. They think they are funny. . .
Mar 1, 2003
Hey...I agree. And, Nate, I hope I was not rude to you specifically. If so, apologies. I agree wholeheartedly with what Matt is saying, but I felt the need to reply to comments I (whether directly or not) received. I was simply asking about some beta, and got bashed(stereotyped) in doing so. I climb at places like the industrial wall/secret crags, and shelf road (older climbs), where overbolting etc. are not issues. I do not support areas like the sport park, but areas like shelf where there are not such debates as this area is not 'known' for overbolting. I just stated that rockclimbing is fun, no matter where I am doing it. I wouldn't know the first thing about chipping. My comment was meant to address the petty issue of an average climber (me) asking a simple beta question which happened to be at a very controversial area, and getting stereotyped as a chump, or chipper or whatev. That was silly. Have fun!
Feb 27, 2003
Thanks for the idea Chris! I can't believe I never thought of egging cars in the sport park. Off to King Soopers...
Feb 27, 2003
The sport park has a reputation of having lots of chipped routes and what would that do?................attract climbers that tend to chip. I am not pointing any fingers at anyone. I am not saying that YOU chip. There are a lot of clean, honest people out there but the ones that are chipping are giving climbers that climb @ the sport park like yourself a bad name. No harm meant in that comment. To me, overbolting depletes routes of their natural beauty, especially cracks.
Feb 27, 2003
Wow...you guys sure are witty. I love to get dogged by people I don't even know!!Thanks Nate! Thanks Rich! True, it is at the sport park, but if you guys are too blind to see a beautiful line (whether it be 'overbolted/overrated' or not) then I'll have to see what lines you guys are doing. I know the sport park gets a lot of bad press, but I for one think that rock is rock. Period. It's not my favorite place to climb (maybe climbed there 3 times), but the sport park does hold some awesome lines. It's too bad so many people are missing what climbing is about..fun. Personal fun, no matter how gained. So, if I climb at the sport park I am now labeled a chump or something. I'm surprised my car didn't get egged the last time I was there. If this is what climbing is coming too....inflated egos, dogging people you don't know on forums, constant debates on ratings and chipping.... I think I'll pick up bowling.
Feb 27, 2003
Good one. Sad to say, most would listen.
Feb 26, 2003
It is tricky. I suggest bringing your drill and making your own holds. That way more folks can figure it out, and the more people that do it, the better it is.
Dec 17, 2002
Any beta please? Me and my buddy tried this thing yesterday, and could not figure it out at 12c??
Dec 16, 2002
- Curve of Binding Energy
I struggle to understand Nathan's comment, regarding if the 2nd bolt was lower it would avoid breaking an angle. First, the landing is quite good, and if you blew the 2nd clip, it is not far to the ground. By bouldering standards, it wouldn't be too bad unless you landed on your back or head. Still avoiding a groundfall is always wise. I ALWAYS STICK CLIP THE 2ND BOLT TO AVOID A GROUNDFALL. Lowering the bolt would make the clip marginally easier, while not protecting the moves over the lip as well. It may even make it harder to work the moves pulling over the lip too. The bolt could only be lowered about 6" or less. Putting it below the handhold or in the roof would likely be putting a bolt in a hollow flake. Regarding the quickdraw blocking the handhold, it has never been a big problem because the good part of the diagonal hold its upper left side. This is at least a foot left of the quickdraw. I have climbed this route many times since 2000. The start is a powerful roof problem. Taping the right hand helps for a flared hand jam in the flake in the roof.
Apr 6, 2017
Would love to see that second bolt placed lower, so you don't break an ankle if you fall and also so you don't have the draw hanging right in the middle of the hold.
Jun 26, 2013
I did not notice the drilled holds at the bottom the many years ago that I first did the route. One is in a natural foot placement, but I don't use the others. I think the one can be avoided with the foot, but it is lame that it exists at all.
Feb 4, 2013
Massive, drilled jug holds at the beginning. Way lame, and also completely unnecessary.
Aug 30, 2011
I really enjoyed this route. Making that first clip would be much less frightening if you had a bouldering pad. The moves never really seemed to get into the .12 range to me, but I haven't climbed much at the grade in Boulder Canyon, so it could just be a matter of [lack of] perspective.
Dec 23, 2009
The guidebook suggestion to place a long draw on the second bolt is helpful. Otherwise, make sure your belayer is right underneath you and paying attention. Too bad I had to climb the miserable route to the left to set it up.
May 6, 2002
- Furious Howard Brown
Definitely one of the best climbs at Sport Park with lots of interesting climbing on great rock. The roof is the unavoidable gymnastic crux, but it is far from over on the face above the lip. The shallow seam & vertical face above the roof is tricky & can feel very insecure. Above the 5th bolt the climbing eases of with relaxing rests on small ledges. A 5.10 section moves right & up to great pocket in a horizontal break. The upper crux past the 8th bolt is quite tricky with poor smears & should not be missed. It can be avoided by moving left onto Space Goats & then stepping back right. However, the upper crux is not contrived & takes the direct independent line. These crux moves begin with a short steep slab leading into a left-facing corner.
Apr 26, 2017
- Impeachara
- Mercy Drilling
Didn't even notice the monos until coming down. Totally pointless. The crack pinch thumb catch is so cool!
Nov 11, 2017
This climb was led in 2001 by Alex Shainman without the bolts & on sight. His partner also led the route on mostly gear but opted to clip the crux bolt. I can think of numerous routes that have been led on gear after being established with bolts. Usually these climbs will still be led with bolts by the majority of climbers. It's fun to climb Mercy Drilling & simply focus on the climbing, without having to fiddle with tricky gear to engineer a safety net. Other serious, hard to protect climbs that were led entirely on gear were later bolted. Cookie Monster (pitch 1 - 5.12a) in Yosemite & Jaws (5.11d) at the East Quarry come to mind. Classic routes that get climbed thanks to the bolts.
Mar 23, 2017
I led this on gear today, and the pro is actually very good. That being said, it was strenuous to place, and I had to top rope first to figure out some of the placements. It's a little finicky right before the crux. The crux itself is protected with a bomber small stopper. This route feels really cool as a trad line. PG-13 rating with the right gear beta. I used lots of small cams from the tiniest gray C3 up to a #0.75 Camalot plus small to medium stoppers. This gear info is just FYI for anyone who wants to do the pitch on gear, I certainly do not expect the bolts to get pulled because I rehearsed a gear ascent on top rope. The pocket seems most definitely natural, and there are several other similar pockets on that face that aren't part of any route.
Aug 29, 2016
That pocket is natural, for sure. There are a lot of water pockets throughout Boulder Canyon that occur naturally, and this is one of them, at least from my experience climbing the route. You can tell because a natural pocket will still have a rough, crystalline texture.
Dec 6, 2015
Those monos are all over the place. Mark has earned more respect than to be accused of manufacturing holds by people who probably don't even know him. I've known him for decades, and if he says he did not drill that pocket, I have no doubt in that he didn't. Accusing someone like Mark, without sufficient evidence and whose route-development résumé speaks for itself, is bad form. If this bolted route isn't your style, there's always RP or Not to Be, in Eldo. It's barely 12a, and you should have no probably getting your pucker factor on.
Dec 5, 2015
Maybe because it's a bolted crack? And I'm glad they were there; I wouldn't lead this thing on gear but had a great time clipping bolts and enjoyed the safe crack climbing. I also didn't find a mono on the upper section, just the two finger pocket in the middle.
Sep 19, 2012
So the route is called Mercy Drilling, but all holds are natural? Me confused.
Jun 18, 2012
This is a really nice route. It's a little short, but it's quite fun. I would agree with others that when I first looked at the pocket on this thing, I thought it was drilled (and yes, I frowned a little). However, then I started to look around more and there are indeed other solution pockets scattered here and there, and given that Mark has posted up, I think it's best to take him at as his word (thanks for posting, Mark). I think the route poster should consider amending the description. Furthermore, about the gear... this thing would be deeply 'R' without the bolts. The placements are flaring and marginal at best. A fall at the crux would probably not be super pretty. On top of this, I think it's bad form to climb a route using the fixed gear and then comment on how a route "could" go on natural pro...and clearly the route poster has not climbed it this way, because if he had, he would have noticed that there is no 3 inch (or 2 inch for that matter) gear on this until you are at the anchor.
Nov 8, 2010
To set the record straight on Mercy Drilling & all the routes on the west face: all holds are natural. Perhaps the person who submitted this route should talked with Chris or me. In fact, the two finger undercling/sidepull pocket would have been very hard to drill like this. This is a beautiful examples of how natural pockets exist in granite. Most of the drilled holds I am aware of at the Sport Park are the larger pockets & jugs. I have ignored much of this site, especially if I have climbed a certain route & have the needed info. I generally just use it to get new route & first ascent info, but I am tired of hearing about this pocket being manufactured. Lastly, if you don't like the bolts on this climb, either don't clip them or go climb Never A Dull Moment, Spin Off, & Englishmen's Home at Castle Rock. Limits Of Power at Blob hasn't seem a repeat in probably over two decades.
Jul 15, 2010
I don't think that pocket was drilled. If that goes on gear, it would def include a heavy R rating as the crux would be very unprotected.
Mar 21, 2009
Really good route. Technical and powerful. My two cents worth: I agree w/ Joe in that I don't think that the route is any harder w/out the mono. -BA
Jul 27, 2008
I'm glad this route was bolted, because I would never want to lead it trad, and I have led other routes at this crag with trad gear.
Sep 16, 2007
When I first climbed this route several years ago, I thought it was chipped as well, but after climbing a few more routes on the cliff, I highly doubt the two solution pockets in the upper part of the route were chipped. At the worst they might have been comfortized, but this section of Surprising Crag has several such pockets, nowhere near the cruxes of routes (you don't even have to use the crux "mono" mentioned above). This would be an R/X-rated trad lead. It would be an exciting, but relatively-safe mixed lead if one clips only the bolt at the crux. People who are caught up in the Sport Park hysteria are missing out on a very nice crag in the west face of Surprising. There are several good 5.11-12 sport routes (not chipped) and some intimidating looking trad lines.
Oct 11, 2004
This mono is not man-made. Occasionally features like these are created when granite is formed and/or eroded. I've climbed this route and have looked for and have NOT found any signs of chipping. Look at the hueco on "American Beauty" next to this climb. It is NATURAL. I have seen these kinds of pockets on granite in many other areas, not chipped. Just because a route is at the Sport Park does not automatically mean that it is chipped or bad. There are some good routes up there. This is a good route with one very bad jam in the crux. I think that it would hard to protect the crux and the section above it getting to the good finger jam (where the difficulties let off). At this point your last piece would be below the horizontal seam that is before the crux. A fall here, on gear, would be interesting.
Aug 19, 2004
- North Crack
- Northwest Passage
- Other One, The
Ahh, that friction crux! A tiny right foot was the key on this one. I tried about 8 times and failed before finding that foot and completing the move. Super fun route!
Nov 5, 2017
I liked the climbing on the lower section with slightly overhanging moves on juggy holds at about 9+ to one harder move at the crux. It's a fun one.
Aug 21, 2017
Enjoyable, to say the least. After some beta, I found the moves weren't too outrageous. The crux is REALLY tricky if you don't know where that crimp is. I tried using the sloper to the right and felt like pulling my hair out. Sturdy holds, regardless of possible chipping.
Aug 31, 2010
That other route to the left is Shakedown Street, 12.c, according to this source. The Other One is a quality climb in great position. We got some incredible shots in profile with massive, towering cumulus above and the colors of the rock really popping. I'll post as soon as I get my camera back. The crux moves took me some figuring out. Some guy who was free-soloing 8s tried to give me the beta, but I tuned him out. For what it's worth, a guy I saw flash some 11d to the left, one of the roof routes, had a harder time on this climb. I would concur that this is the best route on Surprising Slab.
Aug 28, 2010
My honest opinion was the route was 10 with a single 11a move pulling the last bulge. Fun stuff.
Sep 26, 2009
Yeah, what IS that other route rated? Harder than I usually try, but it seemed so inviting after The Other One. I got the last clip and went nowhere. I tried going straight up and failed miserably. (My partner deviously stepped up on the arete and crawled onto the right face and finished.) Straight up "power crimping," wide feet on the overhanging wall and using the high sloper on the face got me nowhere. (Neither did the sketchy slapping along the arete.) It would be nice to know what my limit was.
Sep 20, 2009
You don't think that right hand crimp was chipped?
Aug 15, 2007
I pulled the last roof with a little right hand crimp and reached up to a high sloping left hand. This felt harder than 10c...perhaps I botched the beta? I would agree there was NO other climbing on the route harder than 10a, but what the crap, is there an easier way to pull onto that slab?
Mar 24, 2007
Probably my favorite route in the Sport Park....
Oct 27, 2003
After getting rained/hailed on at Castle Rock on Sunday then walking up to the choss at Mountain Rose crag with threatening rain again, I and my partner decided to go walk up to sport park at dusk and check the place out & see what all of the noise is about. We went with no guide, so we didn't know what routes we might try or what kind of chip & glue we might see. In the fading light (this route being done on a cloudy night at 8:45PM on May 18, the sun having set 15-20 min ago) I wound up for this route.When I was done, I called it 5.10c. I am guessing, but the point is that the route is seriously over-graded.On the bright side, the holds were all natural (or at least what I could see in that light- without the chalk on them, they would have been exceptionally hard to find). The crux was pulling over the round bulge onto slabby holds and I was relieved not to have found a deep finger pocket there- one which would have changed the climb totally.The line was reasonably bolted and due to it's position on the arete/end of the buttress was not seemingly crowded. If all of the lines at the Sport Park had been done in this fashion, nobody would bother bagging on the place for anything more than the blatant over-rating of the climbs. 5.10c in the dark. This is not an exaggeration- it's how I did the route.
May 19, 2003
One of the only climbs that I know I'm going to miss about Sport Park. I don't really think the first couple of moves are .10d, but I think this is actually an 11a move over the top roof.
Sep 6, 2002
Touche! While I will never have the steady mind control of our head-pointing masters, even I am committed to the idea that part of what we do is to play a mental game. My recent visit to the Sport Park also uncovered very little need for those superfluous synapses.
Nov 14, 2001
But would it be categorically unfair to dismiss the area as offensive because it's egregiously over-bolted?
Nov 14, 2001
- Pocket Fisherman
You can start directly below the first bolt in the overhang area if you want to make this route even weirder.
Jun 2, 2013
- Shakedown Street
A nice link up climbs the first 4 bolts of ' The Other One' then moves left and finishes on the last 4 bolts of 'Shakedown Street'.
May 14, 2016
Was told it was 5.11. Very lousy warm-up!
Aug 15, 2012
Really fun and well bolted if you want to climb at your limit. Basically 3 bolts of 5.7 to a V5/V6 boulder problem. If you can on-sight this sucker without the draws pre-hung, you are a bad-azz. The crux is surprisingly over hung with a reachy off balance hand match. Could this be 12b? Yea maybe...Get on it!
Aug 9, 2012
- Space Goats
If you go straight up after roof and don't bail out left, I think it feels like 11d 12a. Either way, cool route.
Mar 12, 2016
- Wise Crack
Regardless of the bolting debate, I actually liked the climbing on this route. It actually felt like an .8, had actual crack climbing for more than 5 feet (well maybe 25), and didn't have a chalk highway up the route. The first bolt placement made me scratch my head though.
Aug 21, 2017
It is what it is, a bolted crack. Consider the bolts a safety net for the aspiring trad leader. Same can be said for "The Touch". If you like 5.8s, do it. If you're offended by the bolts, I suggest leaving that beautiful matched set of quickdraws at home and choose a climb you can safely do with a set of hexes and stoppers. Bottom line is, bolts make climbing easier and safer, just like cams, shoes, or any of the newer technologies. Most of you climbing now wouldn't be if it wasn't for some of these advancements. Nobody gets into climbing with a death wish [I hope]. So, enjoy the rock in your own way, and try not to be to judgemental about the styles and ethics of certain areas. I had to laugh a few years back when I saw the article in some climbing magazine proclaiming Sport Park one of the ten worst crags in the U.S. What elitist crap!
Aug 28, 2010
I thought that it was easier to use gear than the bolts, which are somewhat awkwardly placed on the face to the right of the route. I noticed the tendency for the rope to get caught in that little corner and just placed a redirect to keep it a couple of inches out. Kind of a dull and unrewarding crack, but sufficed as a warmup for the west face. There was a huge group on the south face, so we just worked our way left to right.
Oct 18, 2009
By Michael Walker From: Loveland, CO Oct 20, 2002 If we could assess the needs of bolts on each route specifically, start with this one. It's a very fun route. Problem is, as the name would imply, it's a crack. And it's bolted. And the excuse for this is? ...it's at a crag called The Sport Park....
May 19, 2009
I just led this yesterday with cams and stoppers. Must say that the bolts are probably easier to clip if you're not used to gear placement. I had to place a #1 gold camalot in the crack while hanging off a jam on my left hand. Kind of awkward since I'm used to waiting for good stances before I place anything. The other problem is that placing gear in the crack runs the rope through an annoying slot where is gets stuck if you don't work really hard to keep it out. I had to climb back up my rope to get it unstuck and remove the piece that was feeding it in to the slot. The bolts avoid this problem by keeping the rope way out of the crack.
Oct 3, 2005
A nice climb, but after having led it using the bolts, I wonder if it might even be easier just to go ahead and lead with trad gear. Just cause the bolts are there doesn't mean you have to use them, and their placement seemed a little awkward for the natural stances of the crack.
Jul 29, 2005
i have a question for everyone. This crack being at an old trad climbing area. How can the people that bolted this crack think that they were the first ascentionists? another question is what was going on inside your head when you bolted this, are you proud of your accomplishment of bolting a trad climb? honestly? there is no excuse. if there are any "wise cracks" out there that would like to answer this for me, i would be siked! have to go bolt some cracks, peace.
Apr 5, 2005
Beyond whether this should be bolted at all (because, yes, you could totally protect it with gear), it's a fun climb. Practice your jamming skills, but keep your eyes open--whenever the jams get sparse, there's a jug in reach. I lowered, but it looked like you could walk off to left.
Aug 28, 2004
If we could assess the needs of bolts on each route specifically, start with this one. It's a very fun route. Problem is, as the name would imply, it's a crack. And it's bolted. And the excuse for this is?
Oct 20, 2002
Repeat after me....Me must bolt everything, natural gear is not safe...Grrrrr
Oct 15, 2002
- Visor, The
- Absolute Boulder Canyon
The 25 feet of climbing is not worth the pain it takes to clean it.
Feb 27, 2017
These routes blur the line between toproping and leading. Wuddajoke.
Aug 15, 2004
Not a bad route although overbolted a little much. The first move is a little height dependant, but being 5'8" just meant you made one other move, nothing harder than 11b. The top of the route can be eased with a right hand reaching far inside the crack, feet high and a great layback undercling, you can almost reach anchors from here, just move up the crack. A decent little route with no obvious manufactured holds ? 1 star.
Sep 18, 2001
- Bone Home
The hand jamming to the lip of the overhang is pretty bomber. Then the crack widens to offwidth at the last bolt. The crux is the finish, & there are some face holds to pull over the lip. Kind of hard moves. You'd need fists the size of boxing gloves to jam these moves.
Jul 28, 2017
Definitely not an 11a! More like 10a/b.
Mar 25, 2012
I agree with Jackie. Bomber fist jams make this route a snap. Now, without tape one might go home with ground beef for hands, but this does not warrant a 11a rating. My vote is 10b. It is a short pumpy and rather fun route though.
Jun 26, 2003
- Dyno Monkey
The route has some very positive holds. This climb is more about power & strength, less about subtle technique. Dynos do require technique & practice to perfect. Sport Park is a great place for that. The crux dyno is pretty wild & finishing it out is still powerful. A fun, short, very overhanging route. I can see how someone would call this .11d, but there is a point where downrating a climb is really a great way to flex your ego & draw attention to yourself. Calling this route about the same grade as Flying Machines (.11a/b) is pretty silly. I can think of numerous people who can climb most .11c or d routes but would struggle to send this route. Clearly rating are subjective. If dynoing & hanging by one arm with feet dangling is your thing, then this route is for you. There are 4 bolts / 2 Fixe rings on this route. Best advice is don't try to clip the anchor until you are on the long horizontal jug off to the right.
Jul 28, 2017
The only 12 I've ever been to the anchors on. Sport Park is also home of the only 11d I've redpointed. Oh well, still had a great time on the route. A fun TR because no one gets to dog around after they fall off. I love huge jugs up overhangs, too bad they are man made. I'll do it again for sure though.
Aug 29, 2004
Great route and movement! A little soft though...wouldn't call it 12b, but well worth doing!
Feb 26, 2004
Well, it's probably a number grade too high. A similar, but harder route at Smith Rocks (Toxic), is rated 11b.
Jul 6, 2001
- Flying Machines
Hard to rate this problem. It feels like a chopped gym route. If you can stick the top dyno it's really pretty easy, but you've got to hit aim well. All in all it's quite a bit of fun, but no way 12 climbing.
Aug 26, 2007
A fun, overhanging jug haul; reminiscent of a gym route. Some dynos may be required, but the holds you're shooting for are really good. Keep moving and get to the top before the pump sets in.
Jun 19, 2006
Wow I meant Bomb, big time.
Dec 29, 2004
Wow. Three star of the day? Wow. This was the most chiseled and gouged out piece of shit at the sport pile.
Dec 29, 2004
Come on, Jon, get it together. The manufactured routes at Sport Park are an abomination, and Peter is just pointing that out. Why don't you raz the first ascentionist for creating routes in the Boulder area that are SHAMEFUL!!!
Jul 30, 2002
Can we stop adding manufactured routes to the site? Publicity equals legitimacy.
Sep 24, 2001
I agree with the last comment, it would be nice to see what this route was like a couple years ago. An enjoyable "comfortized" route, with nice jugs the whole way. The bottom may be more of a dyno-like sequence for shorter people, but from here haul away. Perhaps the grade is a little much, as stated before. But a good bit of fun.
Sep 18, 2001
Yes_I was looking forward to the "technical crux" and my groping hands fell into some very unlikely and very large jugs, just where they are most convenient.... fun climbing at (now) an even standard (about 5.11a), but I kinda miss the chance to work out whatever the original moves were like.
Jan 1, 2001
- Flying Rubber Monkey Canyon
- Geek in the Creek
Agreed with the previous posters ... the bolts are a bit reachy for those on the shorter side (5ft 4in) / awkward.. but you can find an okay undercling to make it possible. I would ignore the flaring crack to the right.
Aug 1, 2017
Total waltz up to last bolt, then it became awkward 5.8. I couldn't figure out the last moves. I did not find an undercling or anything positive to get up into the final crack right of the anchors. Like the 10a to the left, it felt like the bolter must've been tall and didn't think to place anchors for average height people.
Mar 31, 2012
The majority of this climb is more like a 5.7. If you aren't tall (I am 5'4"), clipping the anchors is a bit difficult because you can't just stand up and clip - find a good undercling like one of the previous posters said and toward the right for a so-so hand. You can then stand up and be close enough to get the anchors. I don't know that I would recommend it for beginner leaders unless they are tall - in that case, definitely. Not so much for the short ones.
Aug 1, 2010
Great fun! Just below the anchors there is a solid undercling that let me reach the anchors easily.
May 4, 2007
This is pretty fun and good for beginner leaders... it would be easy to reach high and clip if you are tall... but as a midget, it was a lot easier for me to clip the anchors once they were at waste level. I though my clip position was a lot more secure even if you are higher up.
Jul 11, 2003
- Hair of the Dog
Cleaning the anchor was wickedly hard for someone who isn't tall enough to stand under the roof. Took a lot of one arm pullups, a fireman's belay, and expletives to unweight my PAS and quickdraw. No interest in going through that again! I'd do the climb again as it was short and fun, but my partner will have to clean.
Mar 31, 2012
Mislabeled in the D'Antonio guide. I thought it was 10 if you stay in the bolt line. (And therefore contrived, like many of the other routes here.)
Aug 6, 2010
10a if you go straight up at the final headwall; easier if you go left to a good crack.
Jun 19, 2006
I agree with the two other comments. Although being a fairly decent climb...it is not a 10.
Sep 4, 2005
It's 5.10 on the "Sport Park Decimal System".
May 27, 2003
There is no way this is a 10. I don't lead 10s and had no trouble with this. One more example of inflated ratings in the sport park.
May 26, 2003
- Rubberneck
This route is NOT manufactured, unless you count the jug on Dyno Monkey to the left. Rubberneck was one of the first two routes on The Visor. The moves past the 4th bolt originally had to be climbed up the thin, shallow, vertical crack to reach the natural hueco below 5th bolt. It is now possible to reach left off the thin crack to the manufactured jug on Dyno Monkey then reach the hueco on Rubberneck, making this section easier. Still the crux is the big dyno past the 5th bolt.
May 20, 2017
I would have to disagree. I don't actually know what hold you are referring to left of the last bolt, but none of the holds seem manufactured to me. I dynoed straight up, maybe a little rightish, from the jug just below the last bolt. Getting to the crimp by bolt 2 was very reachy, at 5'6" - ape +1, I had to use some bad sidepulls and a little bounce. My taller friend could keep his hand on the low rail. The route to the left however...looked like several enhanced holds.
Aug 20, 2015
I believe that this route is manufactured. The obviously manufactured hold to the left of the last bolt can be skipped, which makes the route slightly more difficult. I cannot tell if one of the lower holds has been enhanced, but due to all the other manufactured holds on this wall I would think so.
Feb 4, 2013
- Welcome Wagon
Four holds in a row were complete chisel work. Felt like a gym route. Not the least bit useful. Even has shitty rope drag for newbies toproping.
Oct 4, 2008
I got a chance to climb this route just after it had been bolted but before it was "complete." Before the hammer, you actually had to use the finger crack which splits the big block while squeezing the edge of the arete. It was tremendous fun and probably 5.11-. Two weeks later that same winter I returned and found a 5.9+ bucket traverse up the arete. Climb this route and imagine what was and don't think you just ticked an 11a as the "guide" book states.
Apr 30, 2002
Can we stop adding chipped routes to the site?
Sep 24, 2001
- Stepping Stones
- Contortionist's Pleasure
You'll want to check the right bolt at the anchor on this one. The hanger was spinning, and the nut was almost completely off today. I tightened it the best I could with my fingers.
Oct 7, 2014
- Cruisin for Neo's
- El Barrio
Redpoint crux sequence: youtube.com/watch?v=ShX5oCG…
Jun 6, 2014
Full value. Awesome problem!
May 27, 2014
Also, don't underestimate the final "lip" traverse before the exit jugs, on the dog it feels easy, on the redpoint go it's incredibly pumpy and without a doubt the redpoint crux....
Apr 8, 2009
...I'm new to Boulder and this was the first bouldering area I found whilst searching on my own. Love this zone, thanks a lot to whomever put in the effort here. I see lots of glue n' such, but no complaints as it has clearly helped "solidify" the spot into a great overhanging training ground. I am curious on the ratings... there is one problem that moves from a sit start up and left and ends after 6 or 7 moves as you come over the lip, anyone got the scoop on this one? Love that problem, great warm up! I also noticed a 'lil spot about 100 yards back down the road that has a few quality moves on it and a ton of chalk. Right above those problems is a way overhanging bolted route that looks super human, would love to hear the beta on this zone. Sweet! //SS
Jun 15, 2006
Barrio traverse is a fantastic way to work hard moves on a route length bouldering problem. My advice on this problem/route: do not underestimate the second crux. Climbing through the cave crux is only the beginning. Also start the route from the sit start at the far left. Those moves are great too and add to the difficulty of the first crux. It's really an intense training tool as well. Once you get it. Add a 10 pound weight belt to your traverse and watch your forarms become machines of raw, crushing power! If you want to train power endurance for Rifle style climbing, you owe it to yourself to work the Barrio traverse. Have at it, and have fun!
Jul 16, 2003
- El Gallito
Hey Dan -- it would be a funner route if less runout. I didn't put it up, no. Maybe Bruno Hache? Or it might have been there before he added his climbs. Not sure....
Jul 17, 2014
A lower first bolt and another bolt below the tricky stem would make this route a lot more enjoyable. I'd be happy to do it with the permission of the first ascent party. Anyone know who that might be? Samet?
Jul 16, 2014
Hey Topher: I'm not sure who did the FA (maybe Chris O'Connor, who submitted it, or Bruno Hache?), but anyway my vote would be to move the bolts to make it safer, in line with the rest of this good little sport wall. Thanks for trundling those death blocks--it needed to happen!
May 23, 2012
The bolting on this used to feel just fine, but I pried off two huge flakes, one before the first bolt, and one before the roof. The climbing is more continuous and safer now, but it does feel kind of sketchy, especially climbing off the ground to the first bolt with a lousy landing. Would the FA crew consider re-bolting the lower half to suit the climb without the massive time-bomb jugs it used to have? Seems like adding a low bolt and then lowering the bolt below the roof a few inches so it could be clipped before the tricky stem would set it up nicely.
May 23, 2012
"Hard to read finish". Amen....
May 17, 2012
Quality climbing slightly marred by unnecesarily intimidating bolting. Hard to read finish. Felt like 11d on sight; 11b red point when you know where to go.
May 17, 2012
Great route. The best part is the super-stem to move right along the bolt line. The crux is hanging on to one of the slopers at the top to clip the anchors. I chose the sloper off to the right.
May 5, 2012
Pretty sweet route. It definitely puts some air in between you and the bolt below you especially going to the anchors. Just the way I like it.
Sep 9, 2008
- Gravel Pilot
- Magie Noire
The opening moves over a bulge are fun. However, when you look down from above, you see that the whole 5-by-6-foot bulge has a crack going all the way around it. If it were to come off onto a climber yarding on it, it would be the big pancake.
Jul 6, 2013
Fun moves. I found this easier than the 5.11s to the left (Turkey Neck Direct and El Gallito). Make sure to avoid the seemingly out-of-place bolt to the left--this bolt is for the Warlock Pincers / Pinche Guey linkup. The upper half of the route is shared with Warlock Pincers. I thought the rock quality was good.
May 21, 2012
- Pinche Guey
Definitely the best route on the crag & worth repeating. As for the grade, when I first climbed this route in Fall 2008, it was originally rated .12c. I felt it was overrated & not as hard as "Caught In The Web" or other .12c climbs. However, calling it .12a is a sandbag compared to "Free Fall", "Warf Factor", or "Furious Howard Brown" (all .12a). I have always felt it was solid .12b, if not .12b/c. I've redpointed it at least once a year since 2008 & have yet to do it first try hanging the draws. I have always send it second or third try with the draws in place. Most 5.12s I have repeated on the first try. It seems harder than "Meteor Rhoadblock" (.12a/b) or "Tell Tale Heart"(.12b), at least that's my opinion. There are hard moves from the 2nd bolt to past the 5th bolt. The kneebar doesn't fit me at the 4th bolt crux, so I use an intermediate pinch & then dyno to the jug. A very thuggish route.
Apr 1, 2015
Broke off the little finger divot at the slab crux. Still goes and not much harder. Fun route.
Jul 16, 2014
3 of the bolt placements crossload your biners. Beware.
Jan 27, 2014
This is a surprisingly good route at a relatively obscure crag. The moves over the roof are super fun and a little cryptic at first. I didn't find any knee-bars in the roof, but I suck at that. I did a huge power move off the undercling to snag the jug at the lip. Without the trickery, I thought this route felt about 12b/c.
Aug 17, 2013
The kneebar does bring the grade down a bit (or a fair bit) at the crux; also the holds are much cleaner and less gritty thanks to traffic than when we put the route up four years ago. 12a/b for the onsight; 12a once you know it? I dunno...something like that. Not as hard as Warlock Pinche.
Jun 30, 2012
We mistakenly got on this thinking it was the 11b/c. I looked at the knee bar in thin tights and thought better of not doing it. I pinched low and slapped over the roof second try. I don't think this is harder than 11+/12-. I defer to the harder side of that in light of other opinions, but it is not terribly hard. I don't usually get mid-12s that easily when I'm going casual climbing after work. I think the pinch is just bad beta.
Apr 11, 2012
Hmm, I remembered to use a kneebar, but used my left...which worked fine. Sometimes too little knowledge is a good thing. Felt more like 12a with the kneebar, but I don't want to be one of those downrating guys. Regardless, quite fun and worthwhile.
Mar 23, 2012
I saw the possibility of getting a kneebar under the roof, but opted out with a series of underclings, pinches, and key foot sequences to a dynamic move over the roof instead. The tricky sequence getting to the 3rd bolt is just awesome. It helps to put your dancing shoes on up to the roof. Good eye Matt for picking out the best line at the crag.
Sep 9, 2008
Probably the best route at the crag. A right kneebar at the crux (getting into the overhanging blocky rock) makes the crux straight forward and enjoyable, without the kneebar/kneepad (jessery, cheating, whatever) the crux is painful and hard relying on powerful pinching. Great route and nice addition to the crag....
Aug 13, 2008
- Québec Connection
Nice mixed route. It's still a bit dirty at the top. You only need a couple of pieces of gear on easy trad until the first bolt, and then the rest of the climb is protected by bolts. I didn't do the crux move as shown in the picture; I moved left into the corner, turning my right hand from a Gaston into a push move to gain the undercling on the left. I felt the moves were more like 5.10. Interesting moves requiring good foot placement. I stayed under the flake at the top and clipped from the left side of it, but I suppose you might be able to jam in the crack above the flake.
Sep 25, 2008
- Stepping Stones
- Turkey Neck Direct
Excellent climb. The vertical face climbing past 2nd bolt to 4th bolt is 5.11b & quite fun. Then shake out under the roof before a tricky, powerful crux. The roof crux has sloping pinch holds, sidepulls, & a dyno to the turkey neck jug. Still tricky past the last bolt. Worth doing & repeating.
May 7, 2017
This is a good route, but it is harder than it looks from the bottom. The middle section lacks positive holds. At the first roof, I did go a little right to get a ticked sidepull to be able to stand. Getting through the last roof to the turkey neck is the crux. Unfortunately, my only beta is "use your 6'6" wingspan to reach past the terrible slopers and get your fingertips on the turkey neck."
May 5, 2012
- Unknown
There is ledge fall potential above the 2nd bolt. Be careful.
May 7, 2017
You'll want to check the right bolt at the anchor on this one. The hanger was spinning, and the nut was almost completely off today. I tightened it the best I could with my fingers.
Oct 7, 2014
Better finish & better pro if you finish on the top of the 10-.
May 16, 2012
- Unknown Variation
The route has 4 bolts. Definitely committing getting to the 3rd bolt. Best not to fall. There is a good, vertical edge system on the right. Another bolt between the 2nd & 3rd bolt would be nice, but it's no big deal if you are climbing 5.11+ or harder. I have never thought the crux past 3rd bolt was only 5.10-. Very solid 5.10 crux. The rest of the climb is 5.9 & easier.
May 7, 2017
You'll want to check the right bolt at the anchor on this one. The hanger was spinning, and the nut was almost completely off today. I tightened it the best I could with my fingers.
Oct 7, 2014
Short, but interesting. There are several steep slopey moves.
May 21, 2012
- Warlock Pinche
Good eye to Josh and Christie for this killer link up--it takes the hardest climbing on three cool routes and links them up through the steepest part of the wall on nice, dark rock. I thought it was a fair bit harder, at least in terms of pump factor, than Pinche Guey. I'd say a 12a crux, to 5.11- laybacks, to a cool, technical, body-English 11+ crux traverse, then into the Pinche roof of Pinche Guey. ¡Orale! You can also do "Rock Warrior's Guey," 5.12c, by traversing in from low on the right, beginning on the flat starting jug below the 11a corner. Arc up and across the blue streak to join Warlock Pinchers by the second bolt; harder if you off-route the jug flanges on the right for your hands. This variation is also "guey" pumpy.
Jun 30, 2012
- Warlock Pinchers
The crux is low (at the 2nd bolt) and thereafter the difficulty eases considerably. Getting off the ground may be hard for the short; at 6'1", I could just reach the starting crimper; others will have to use poor intermediates with poor feet. The crux moves are interesting; look for the hard-to-see R sidepull right of bolt 2. A modified kneebar (more like a knee sidepull) may help exiting the crux. Clearing the roof is fun but much easier than the crux grade.
Sep 25, 2008
- Stoner Slab
- Inagodadavida
I climbed this today with Leo Paik and Doug Redosh. From the base of the Bitty Buttress route, we descended southeast for about 200 feet, then third-classed a long way east, across loose ledges, until we reached the start of what Rossiter describes as pitch two of Inagodadavida. We top-roped the lower pitch, which is unprotectable, by belaying the climber as he traversed east to the "left [west] of two trees," then using the tree as a directional for lowering him to the base of the route. Beware of loose rock; it could end up on the highway. Doug led pitch two, up funky cracks that diagonaled slightly to the east. When I followed (thirded), I climbed to the right of the cracks, up the middle of the clean slab, which provides unprotected climbing on good rock (5.6-). The top is guarded with a fence of loose blocks.
Nov 24, 2015
- Inagottawhat
- Sugar Crack Buttress
- Rubberneck Crack
Don't go left to the corner at the bush. It is totally avoidable and the direct line is protectable - put a cam below the bush, step left to a jug right by its base, and get up to standing on that. Step back right to the right above it, place good gear in the "quartz dike" and pull that from its right side on great sidepulls, then finish. Going left is dirty and loose and the moves are not as good anyway.
May 9, 2012
We initially thought this was Sugar Crack, but after a chat with Dan Hare I'm pretty sure it wasn't. The name comes from the five or six cars that were backed up behind a "rubbernecker" watching us as we climbed.
May 24, 2008
- Sugar Crack
- Sugaree
My friend was leading this route when a crazy guy came flying down the canyon, running over my rope, flubbering something like "I own this rock" and "If you don't leave now, I'm calling the Sheriff"! (who's probably his neighbor he makes backyard gin with), but anyway, IF you want to climb this, park way down the road and gear up there, then come storm the rock and move as fast as possible! If the Sheriff comes, tell him the land is a public CDOT roadcut, because that is what we think it is (but I don't argue with a barrel of a shotgun. We left.).
Apr 20, 2016
This is a pretty cool route. A bit dirty right now, but after it sees some traffic, it could shape up real nice.
May 28, 2014
- Sugarloaf Block
- Superdeath
- Teflon Wall, The
- Three Buffoons
- Tonnere Tower
- Creekside
- Creekside Cruise
A wee bit dirty in places, needs more traffic - possibly not so popular due to the absence of bolts?
Oct 14, 2011
- Curtain Call
Not totally a bomb, but also not really a star either. Only the first pitch is independent terrain. P2 no matter how you do it is a different route.
Jun 8, 2017
Climbed P1 yesterday and branched off to intercept Smooth Operator. Blah... Wish I'd done P2.
Jun 15, 2009
Climbed this with Gregory. We actually ended on Dutch Treat and finished at the anchors up and right of Showtime. Super fun!
Jun 3, 2008
Awesome route, the best of the day 5/17... Even though the route has the low angle slab in the middle of the 1st, it's still got some super sweet sections, especially the 2nd pitch. Another awesome route from Ron O. As I've been climbing here all day, I've seen so many people @ Boulder Falls parking lot taking pictures of everyone climbing... it's funny to think of all the homes across the country our pictures make it in to... we're all famous ;)
May 18, 2008
- Liquid Therapy
Just the first couple moves are hard. All the cracks the rest of the way are full of dirt but not hard. We scrambled over to showtimes arete which was fun but had a bunch of dangerous looking rocks.
Sep 23, 2016
Even though the bottom may be out of the water & be belayed from a river rock at the base, the creek-spray can make it quite slick for the opening moves.
Jul 28, 2014
Seems like a 1 move wonder to me. V1 boulder problem is protected by a large, blue, Metolius cam. Enjoy.
May 17, 2008
This route turned out to be more interesting than it looks. Compared to routes like Mists of Avalon 10a, BC, and Bolting For Glory 10a, Eldo, I would call this one 5.9ish. I wouldn't think twice about recommending it to a 5.9 leader with good gear skills.
Sep 30, 2007
- Local Hero
Did this line yesterday for a the first time. Overbolted seems to be the norm for this crag. Nice route, creative line.
Sep 30, 2010
A few bolts where gear was an option, but mostly right on. Actually, the route is decently protected by bolts alone, as the gear moves are not difficult. Do take a few long slings for clips that are not in-lin or are below a roof. The 3 stars is reflective of the length of the route done as a single 60M pitch and the exposure up top. It is the top half of this one that earns its stars- the bottom is sort of discontinuous.
Jun 15, 2009
Fun route, not over bolted and for the most part bolts are where you want them. Light rack of stoppers and one each of gold Alien to #2 Camolot is all that is needed to lace up.
Sep 14, 2008
- Los Pinos (The Pines)
The first two pitches are fun. The upper pitches are pretty lousy, and only worthwhile if you want a tiny adventure.
Oct 26, 2014
P2, following a crack in the slab, is good climbing but its atmosphere is spoilt a bit by the nearby tree-infested gully on the right.
Oct 14, 2011
- Spirit on the Water
With all the trees and stuff, this seemed vaguely reminiscent of the scruffier bits of Borrowdale (apart from the bolts!). Sticking closely to the line of the bolts up the slab, P2 seemed just as hard as P1.
Oct 16, 2010
Fun route. The only route I have seen that has a two bolt anchor in the rock at the bottom so your belayer doesn't go for a swim while you are climbing!
Sep 8, 2008
You can place a nut between the second and third bolts if you so desire. This route is quite slick if it is at all wet.
May 15, 2008
I think the first pitch of this route is one of the better pitches on Tonnere Tower.
Sep 22, 2007
- Garden, The
- B Boys, The
Does anybody do the 1st pitch? It was licheny AF, desperate, and slippery. Even after getting the flake over the lip, it's lichen everywhere. Sketchy!
Aug 13, 2016
Pretty fun stem problem and a little more sustained than I was expecting (though there is only one distinct crux). I think it would go on gear pretty easily. There is gear by all three of the bolts (in order - yellow Alien, RP, yellow/orange Alien, yellow Alien, hand-sized cam)... that said, I'm not complaining about having them there.
Jul 15, 2016
You certainly need to know how to stem to be successful on the 2nd pitch. The 1st pitch looks difficult, but good holds appear when you need them.
Aug 4, 2013
Interesting 2nd pitch! The bolts are well placed. It looks like a key hold might come out. (There is a loose, triangular block above the roof that creates a good hand-hold.) I wonder if this would go at a lesser grade if someone cleaned the crack above the roof? I think this one could go trad if you were ambitious. Maybe some day.
Oct 18, 2007
- Before The Deluge
What a dirty contrived POS. Waste of time. Apparently doesn't see much traffic and yes - harder than it looks from below.
Nov 6, 2017
Totally looked easier from below. Went too far left around bolt 4 or 5 and got stuck in no holds land.
May 21, 2014
Slab city - fun but pretty low angle.
Oct 30, 2008
Well protected but still rather dirty. It might clean up and be a decent balance climb. We did this right after 2 days of rain and keeping the mud off your shoes was a challenge and for that reason I really didn't enjoy it. I was thinking of rating it a "bomb" but perhaps it would be more enjoyable if it had been dry for the last couple of days.
Sep 13, 2008
Well-protected.
Oct 18, 2007
- Border Crossing
- Crackdown
The crux section is short on this. It is only a move or two.
Aug 4, 2013
Protects with two small TCUs (Metolius blue and purple) or green C3 down low and a draw near the top.
Oct 24, 2007
- Dutch Treat
- Fine Fir
After the second bolt, you can stay on the face to the left anchors (Just Do It) and get in a bit of questionable small gear, but this is harder than 5.7. Going right and over onto the face that heads up to the higher anchors is easier but unprotected runout. None of it is very good.
Aug 27, 2017
I ended at "Just Do It" anchors, and I think it was a much better finish than continuing up the extremely dirty gully to the true anchors.
Jun 29, 2012
If you go left of the tree and continue up the faint crack it is a little harder. Small cams and a couple of small stoppers is all you need. You can finish up at the "Just do it" Anchors this way. 5.8
Oct 25, 2007
- Just Do It
Felt like 9 if you stick to the face after third bolt.
Sep 18, 2010
Nice route, I lead 5/17... Protects well, I give it 5.9 in the crack, but if you step left, 5.7 what a sweet area, Kudos to Ron & Bob for cleaning this place up and getting it recognized.
May 18, 2008
The last bolt is kind of pointless when the anchor is 2 5.6 moves away.
May 15, 2008
I lead this last night with Tristan. Funny because we didn't realize this was a mixed climb. (It was too dark to see any bolts.) I got about half way up and realized there were no more bolts. Luckily I had my trusty #11 stopper and some extra alpine slings. Slotted the nut and slung a "horn" on the left. Ran it out to the anchors. Wicked easy if this was a nine. I say 5.7 or 5.7- -percious
Oct 25, 2007
- Showtime
A 70m rope does work if you want to lower to the starting anchor below the climb.
Aug 4, 2013
By rapping straight towards the creek rather than re-tracing the route to the intermediate anchor, you can do 2 60m raps rather than 3. At the second rap, there are two anchors. Either works for setting the second rappel. The anchors here are all really bomber.
May 3, 2012
We didn't realize about the intermediate rap anchor when we descended this beauty of a climb in the dark.... a 70 meter rope will get you down the the next anchor though... Too bad we only had a 60, and were forced to leave some gear on the tree above the first belay station. Solid 5.8 with some interesting crack climbing. Interesting position once you pull though the crux. This climb is better done when it is still light out.
May 15, 2008
- Smooth Operator
If you have a rack, you can add some real value to this pitch by climbing straight up and a little left after the crux, moving through a couple of overlaps with good trad pro. Roughly hard 5.10 with some balance-y moves and lichen. After that it only makes sense to join the bolted line (or continue on trad up the easy groove). This variation roughly doubles the independent stretch of Smooth Operator, and it's very interesting climbing.
Aug 16, 2015
I think this climb is a 5.11, not a 5.10+. I think it is about 11a in difficulty. It took me several tries to figure out the initial moves.
Aug 4, 2013
That's really odd. I'm used to downgrading their routes a few letter grades, but I found this one particularly perplexing and insecure. I hung on it. So, both in my wildest dreams, and in reality, I nodded to the 11+ grade on it. For what it's worth, I onsighted Le Boomerang and The Contest without much trouble, and recently onsighted or flashed 5.12 on other climbs with established consensus grades, but this one gave me a fit, and my partner had trouble, too. Perhaps you unlocked a sequence that they, nor I, could find. In which case, good on you. Got beta?
Sep 30, 2009
Bob/Ron, The 11+ rating on this must be a mistake. Not in anyone's wildest dreams would this route be 11+. I think 11- is a stretch even by Boulder Canyon standards. It is a decent route, but 10+ is a more honest rating. Consider other 11+'s in the Boulder area: Englishman's Home, La Boomerang, The Contest (I could list many others). Compared to these routes, this one is a walk in the park.
Sep 30, 2009
- Storm Warning
- Northwest Face
- Sport Land
- Clean Sweep
It seems fairly clean at present. The line is not obvious but becomes apparent as you move upwards.
Aug 4, 2013
Still a little loose and an indirect line connecting a few fun sections though. Might clean up with time, but it's still indirect and will never be a great line. Worth doing, but that's it.
Jul 16, 2009
There's a big block perched on the second pitch belay ledge. Be careful.
Aug 5, 2007
Climbed this route on 6/26. Rating seemed about right, since it felt a little harder than Gonzo and V3 in Eldo. Good pitch overall with some crumbly rock in sections that will clean up over time. I did not have offset cams and a lot of the cracks are flaring, but it still protects well enough if you are solid at the grade.
Jun 27, 2007
- Face Off
There are 7 bolts on this route, and it is 5.7 at the most.
Jun 14, 2013
Even in approach shoes, never felt anything remotely close to 5.8. Howabout 5.6?
Jul 16, 2009
Easy warm up route. Did Stayin' Alive to make it a 2p climb.
Aug 11, 2007
- Generous Donation
I guess I'd give this an 11a, BoCan sport ratings :). I'm 5' 5" and didn't really feel like anything was that reachy. A stout couple of moves lead to a jug flake right of the lip. Then it's pretty much over. Definitely fun and worth doing if you're up there. Just looks cool from the belay on Toe the Line. Rapped down from the top of Toe the Line to do this pitch.
Aug 13, 2016
As usual, fresh cleaning often make the fresh FAs feel harder. 9 years later, now that this route cleaned up from climbers enjoying the route, I revised the grade to the consensus 5.11a.
Jul 29, 2016
I had a lot of fun on this route last week. Although the 5.11 rating is too high I think. I am just under 6 feet and had no problems reaching the good holds. Superb feet everywhere. Fun climb, 5.10+.
Sep 25, 2009
Nice route with a fun, albeit short headwall - probably 11a. However, I would urge climbers to be careful about the crux flake. The moves require pulling directly outwards, and over time, this force may dislodge the flake. The belayer and other climbers below should beware and ready in case the flake should go.
Aug 6, 2009
Like Ken, I did a high step right at the top of the headwall. It appeared to be the logical exit move. For a pretty nice, quasi-three pitch route, climb both pitches of Toe the Line, rap back to the belay beneath the headwall, and finish up Generous Donation
Aug 22, 2007
Ken, Thanks so much for the warning about the fixed line. I went up and pulled the rope up so the exposed core was not on the rappel line. You may have saved my life!?! :) You are very welcome for this addition to Tonnere. It is a fun crux. About the flat stuff at the end, I would like to make a comment. Yes, I agree that it is much easier in the flat stuff section. But I felt that this section is actually fun. Easy but quite exposed with tons of air. So to make it interesting, I purposely spaced out the bolts more than at the crux. More run-out in easier terrain with tons of air! I quite enjoyed it when I did the FA! :) Those were my thoughts when I set it up. Bruno
Jun 27, 2007
Ken, Glad you enjoyed the route. You would probably need a 70m rope to rappel from the top of the headwall back to the ground. The end of the first pitch of Toe The Line is about 95' up; the headwall is another 30' or so. I don't think you can get down from there with a 60m rope without doing some down-climbing. Our intention at Tonnere is to make every route safe to rappel with a 60m rope. Putting in an anchor that requires a 70m rope would be a dangerous thing to do, in my opinion.
Jun 22, 2007
Bruno and Ron, thanks for the work in putting up this route, (and the tyrolean, and the trail work, etc.!) The crux moves are cool -- those incut edges are small, but very positive. I did a high-step right to get off the headwall -- was that your intention? I did the route as a single pitch, combining it with the first pitch of Toe the Line. Just a suggestion, why not put an anchor after the headwall so the route (Toe the Line 1st pitch + the crux 11 moves) could be done as a single pitch with a single rope rap. This would make for a continous climb without all the low angle stuff at the end. Also, we were going to rap your fixed line from the tree at top, but observed that about 8" of sheath is missing from the rope about 20 ft down from the tree. I seriously advise not trusting your life to this rope. Thanks again!
Jun 22, 2007
- Hard Times
I thought the clips were a little iffy. Not bad, just pumpy. I think in time this one might hold the grade, or very nearly. But only time will tell. Regardless, I think it is harder than Sidekick becuase the feet are 'worse' so to speak. It requires more faith anyway.
Jul 16, 2009
I didn't think it was so sketchy of a climb. The bolts seemed well placed. Good little problem in otherwise easy terrain.
May 21, 2008
- Nick Of Time
I used one #4 Camalot on this route and one #3. I did not use a #2. Most of my gear was fairly small. This route is fun and has maybe one 5.6 move.
Jun 14, 2013
I used up my #2 and #3 C4 early on and didn't have much trouble finding placements for small nuts and a red C3 later on, a bunch of #3-#4 C4s would be the easiest but are not necessary.
Jun 29, 2012
A good route with good gear if you bring bigger stuff instead of stoppers, as suggested. Felt as hard at the sport 5.8 to the right, both are probably 5.6.
Jul 16, 2009
I would say the bulge is maybe 5.6, but it is only one move and the rest is easy and fun with big holds and lots of pro placements.
Sep 13, 2008
I agree that this is probably more like 5.6, but it may also be that it only has one move at the bulge that is harder and the rest is a lot easier. The largest cam I used was a #2 Camalot at the bulge. If you look around, there is plenty of smaller stuff if you don't want to bring bigger gear.
Jun 27, 2007
Climbed this nice corner line with the recommended big cams. After the gardening and beta from the FA, it probably seems not as difficult to subsequent leaders. Giving it a 5.6 rating with maybe a borderline 5.7 move at bulge. Nevertheless, it was a fun route with some nice holds throughout. Top anchors are well placed and convenient belay anchors at bottom make this a very easy, enjoyable, trad route on otherwise sporty face. Nice job, Ron!
Jun 14, 2007
- Sidekick
A 70m will get you to the easy ramp at the beginning with only 1 rap.
Sep 10, 2017
The first pitch is great. There is a flake at the end of the harder climbing that is loose and will probably break in the near future. It is a great hold and is obviously used by many, so I wanted to give a heads up. It can be avoided by underclingling instead. The second pitch is not worth the effort.
Sep 21, 2014
First pitch is a lot of fun, sustained climbing at the 5.10 level. Don't bother with the second pitch, I'm not even sure why it exists.
Nov 9, 2012
Stellar first pitch with high quality vertical climbing at 5.10+. Second pitch isn't worth doing.
Jul 30, 2012
Would have given this 4 stars if it weren't for the disappointing 2nd pitch. Very technical 1st pitch and thought provoking...that's what I like.
Jul 4, 2011
Great first pitch! One of the more memorable sport routes in Bocan for sure! Great find! However, there is no way it's harder than 10d. FWIW, my girlfriend called this 5.10a (granted she was on toprope).
Aug 29, 2010
This is the best lines on that cliff 5.10c.
Oct 29, 2007
Easy for an 11 if that is the given grade. Very nice moves and well worth doing.
Oct 4, 2007
No move harder than .10d, but the sustained climbing merits an .11a. Several surprisngly good rests and shakes. Probably the best single pitch on any route starting from the dirt ledge.
Aug 31, 2007
Don't usually have a problem onsighting 11b. Maybe because I was tired but I took on this one after the crux. Long and sustained. Best route we did.
Jul 19, 2007
I can see it being harder when first sent as there is still a lot of lichen on the route - especially high up. You can send this in one pitch with a 60m rope. You'll need two ropes for the rap though (perhaps two 50s would work? or like Tony said one 70 and a downclimb). I didn't try, but I would probably agree with Tony that this could be a trad lead...probably pumpy to place gear though. My guess is when it cleans up even more it would be 5.10b/c. The lower section is quite continuous, but if you get good stances you can shake out. Beta hint: sidepull, sidepull, sidepull....etc.... Nice, fun route. Well-protected if you are trying to break into mid to hard 5.10 climbing. 5.11a/b is my onsight limit right now, and I didn't seem pushed that far.
Jul 13, 2007
I posted initially 5.11c and it was the feeling I had when I climbed it on my Shunt, when it was still full of lichen and moss! In my opinion, it probably is more around 5.11 a/b, especially onsight. But the grade being so subjective and personal, we will see a lot of variation on the grade people will post. Update: Nearly two months later as 08/04/07, I climbed Sidekick and in my opinion, this is 5.11a/b due to the continuous nature of the climb.
Jun 25, 2007
65 ft of continuous moves on nicely featured rock -- this is destined to become a favorite at the grade on the Boulder Canyon sport climbing circuit. I'd say it is about as much fun as Hound Dog on Bell Buttress, but it's slightly less than vertical so working the hard sequences before committing makes it a bit easier than Hound Dog. Great find guys.
Jun 24, 2007
Lots of good, fun moves; relatively sustained at the grade, whatever that is. Good new school bolt job.
Jun 23, 2007
The best of the pitches I did here that day, worth 3 stars. Worth the trip up there to do, I was really quite surprised at the number of sidepulls one can do in a single pitch. Good find, though you might not want to climb it after a rain. It had some slick dirt/mud at the steep sections just 24hrs since rain. I did this trad (gear only) with Jerry Bargo with a light rack of stoppers and cams. Doubles in the cams 1" and below might have been nice to have, but it went without. The climb had some 5.10 moves with a little runout, but not big ones. On the way down I cleaned the crack a little more. RPs and ballnuts could now be used where I did not place anything. This would make it well protected for someone with the skill to place small and complex protection. That may be tricky to get in solidly, so some minor caution remains. I'd call it PG-13 to be conservative. If you don't like it, clip a bolt; there is no risk of getting totally snaked. Perhaps this makes this line an idea line for people just pushing into more complex and harder trad lines to attempt. Since bolts are available every few yards, one can easily 'bail out' A 70M rope rap from the anchors got me down to a short 4th-class downclimb to the belay.
Jun 14, 2007
- Stayin' Alive
The very closely spaced bolting on pitch 2 gives it the feel of a very well-positioned UK HVS 5b pitch.
Oct 10, 2015
This can be led on gear in one pitch with a 70m rope starting with Nick of Time. Only sketchy part of the final slab with no gear but easy climbing. Fun climbing up high.
Jul 6, 2015
Buried Alive feels like the most natural line of pitches. Very fun three-pitch 5.9. Great intro for aspiring 5.9 leaders. Carry your approach shoes, as the walk-off is much easier and faster than rapping. Pitch 1: (Buried Treasure) 5.8- Pitch 2: (Buried Treasure) 5.6 Pitch 3: (Staying Alive crux) 5.9.
Oct 30, 2014
Agreed with Justin, the rope drag is something fierce.
May 21, 2014
Linking the two pitches is possible with a 60 but really not recommended.
May 21, 2014
People love this climb because it climbs like a fun trad route. Lots of cracks, underclings and sidepulls, all in perfect gear placements. Since mixed routes are common in the area, why not leave this one mixed, too. Way to go.
Apr 26, 2014
I agree that the 1st pitch is a 5.8, not a 5.9.
Aug 4, 2013
I climbed the first pitch arete. It was really enjoyable; I'd give it a 5.8 rather than the 5.9 listed here.
Jul 14, 2013
Haven't yet done the first pitch, but the second pitch is, without a doubt, the very best 5.10a bolted climb I've ever led!!!
Jul 3, 2012
The last pitch is remarkable - as said above, maybe the best easy 10 in the canyon (aside from the questionable bolting). Start on Buried Treasure for a classic 3 pitch sport climb, I thought both pitches of that were better than P1 of Stayin' Alive.
May 28, 2012
One of the best sport climbs at the grade in BC. Great, continuous moves, especially on the second pitch. Perfect view of Boulder Falls the whole way. Would be a stellar trad climb....
Jun 15, 2011
P1 feels a bit contrived but has fun moves and nice position. P2 is fantastic, consistent climbing. I agree that it could mostly be sewn up with gear (might be a bit dicey around the dihedral), but I still enjoyed it as a sport climb (and I'm mostly a traddie). Thanks, guys, for putting this and the other routes up on Tonnere. Cool area with great rock. Hint: make sure you save some energy and hand strength for going back across the Tyrolean.
Jul 16, 2010
It's a league game, Smokey.
Sep 17, 2009
'..Ya but I wasn't over. Mark it an 8.' 'Smokey, you're entering a World of PAIN.'
Sep 17, 2009
P2: Great pitch, too bad there's lots of bolts in the way. Easily lead with natural, removable gear (except the contrived arete ending). Bolted finger cracks, has everyone else gone crazy? How has this not been chopped?
Sep 16, 2009
Great pitch but no harder than the first pitch of Buried Treasure. The link-up of the two is a pretty good outing for sure.
Aug 9, 2009
Second pitch is a blast! Thanks Ron, Bruno and everyone who has worked on Tonnere.
Jun 2, 2008
The second pitch crux is Awesome! Looks a little intimidating but just keep moving. Great route and really well bolted.
Apr 16, 2008
The second pitch has a nice bolted crack on it... Fun moves though. I don't quite understand why there are 4 bolts after the crack, but whatever.
Oct 4, 2007
P2 is a nice pitch. However, I'd be very cautious on P1. The 3rd or 4th bolt (second bolt on the pinnacle part of the arete) is attached to a very large block (which you obviously have to climb on and over) and, as far as we could tell, the block is NOT ATTACHED to solid rock. Only gravity seems to be holding it in place. For now.... EDIT: I contacted Ron about this block (9/23/07). He's looking into it and will undoubtedly provide an accurate assessment of the situation.
Sep 23, 2007
P2 is great! Fun underclings and side pulls with footholds that aren't always obvious. The dihedral requires some thoughtful footwork, too.
Jul 1, 2007
The first pitch arete is spectacular, because you are on the arete with lots of air and good climbing. The second pitch is fabulous! The dihedral crux makes you think, then the easier, undercling arete keeps the pitch very interesting and airy! A classic at the grade in Boulder Canyon!
Jun 30, 2007
- Tag Team
In short, pitch 2, use a big right side hold that's on Total Eclipse, 5.10+ variation. Climb stratight up in the bulge/roof as per the FA, not using the big hold on the right, 5.11 b/c, pick your letter. I am NOT changing the grade.
Jul 29, 2016
Another great route. The roof is easy, and I thought the crux of the first pitch was no harder than .10b.
Oct 8, 2011
P1 is definitely 10b, not d. It's easy to get off route on this one. If you head up from the anchors, you end up on P2 of tow the line, 10a. Head right I guess if you want to do the "true route" This part of the cliff definitely feels grid bolted.
Dec 8, 2008
We thought we were doing P2 of Total Eclipse, but I guess we ended up on P2 of Tag team -- it seemed like a more direct line (lot of bolts up there). Going up the right side of the little roof felt like mid-10.
Sep 23, 2007
Fun climb, did it in one pitch with a 70M rope. Can rap from the anchors down to the start with a 70M rope. Don't follow the crack too high on the first overhang or you'll miss the jug over the roof. Second overhang seemed a bit awkward.
Aug 11, 2007
Bruce, >Which illustrates another point about ratings: different people read rock differently -- especially on-sight without colored tape (OK, chalk) to identify the "right" holds. .11b/c or .10d, it's an interesting, if short, puzzle. Yes, ratings are very subjective to those factors. Hence the need for a consensus rating and stars voting system that MP provides so nicely. Thanks Andy! You get an average from many perceptions from many climbers of various rock reading abilities, climbing styles and body sizes. There are no "right" holds in my opinion. There are holds that fit one person and other holds that fit others. The key is that each individual will use them differently to fit their own individual body sizes and climbing styles/reading abilities. Indeed, using those holds in a different combination is an awesome short puzzle to solve. The discovery of that puzzle is the beauty of onsighting a route and climbing in general. >Our thanks to you and Ron for the hard work you put into cleaning the routes. You are so welcome. Ron and I are glad to hear that you and others enjoy Tonnere Tower for the climbing it now offers to all climbers who visit this crag. Cheers, Bruno
Jul 31, 2007
"You are right, I went straight up since the holds were bigger and cleaned. Thus my proposed grade of 5.11 b/c when I freed it." Bruno, not knowing about the bolt above the roof, I worked my feet up to the good holds near the highest bolt under the roof and then torqued right to the hold occupied by your right foot in the crux photo. Which illustrates another point about ratings: different people read rock differently -- especially on-sight without colored tape (OK, chalk) to identify the "right" holds. .11b/c or .10d, it's an interesting, if short, puzzle. Our thanks to you and Ron for the hard work you put into cleaning the routes.
Jul 31, 2007
Bruce, You are right, I went straight up since the holds were bigger and cleaned. Thus my proposed grade of 5.11 b/c when I freed it. One thing I would like to say: The more accurate grade is the average grade that will end up as a classic statistical "bell curve"! Strong one day, less strong another day, you are small, you are tall. For some people it will feel like 5.11 b/c, for some others, like 5.11a and even 5.10d. Take all this into consideration and the statistics sums it all. So please people, keep voting, it's the whole purpose of the grading and star voting system on MP, let's constructively get an average!
Jul 30, 2007
Two enjoyable pitches. The crux on the first pitch seemed like .10c; pulling the right edge of overhang on the second pitch seemed like .10d. Going directly over the roof to the bolt above the lip (which isn't visible from below) would definitely be harder.
Jul 30, 2007
Mark, I buy that! When Tag Team was a start variation line, it was not very popular. Then it gained popularity when we did it as an independent line. It must have cleaned up quite a bit by now. Therefore, it probably got easier, however I did not use the edge that Bruce is talking about. Or perhaps I am just more out of shape than I thought! :) But for the moment, in my opinion from what I felt when I did the first ascent, the grade I propose is 5.11 b/c ...if you go straight up! Will climb this route again in September. Update: Climbed it today 08/04/07. In my opinion, I maintain the straight up exit is 5.11b. Bruno
Jul 26, 2007
Lets do a reality check here - 11b/c? Come on. It is a great route, do not get me wrong. Thanks to Bruno and Ron for putting this up. Maybe it was harder when it was put up due to lichen and loose rock. 10 for the first overhang and 10+ for the one move second overhang.
Jul 24, 2007
Bottom section is cool. I didn't care for the one move wonder above it. Inadvertently pulled out some loose stuff at the top of the left hand crack at the 11 b/c crux.
Jul 19, 2007
Be careful going over the first roof...I don't think you want to get over and blow the clip. Not a place to fall as you will probably hit the wall below pretty hard. Perhaps this bolt should be moved a bit lower - a bit closer to the lip? Not a criticism, just a safety thought. Much appreciation to Bruno and Ron for bolting/cleaning this fine route. You could also run this with one 60m rope, but perhaps place some runners before the overhang to avoid rope drag. Though if you place one right before definitely don't blow the clip after the roof...I thought the upper crux was much harder.
Jul 13, 2007
The original 6th bolt on Tag Team, which traversed over to Toe The Line, has been removed. Tag Team is now a completely independent two-pitch climb: a fun face and overhang on the first pitch, and a tougher overhang on the second pitch. If you're not up for the second pitch, give the first pitch a try; it's really fun!
Jul 2, 2007
- Toe The Line
Loose tooth still at the top as of 5/22/2016. Fun line, pretty scary for the grade!
May 23, 2016
Loose tooth right below p1 anchors is still there. It is pretty loose and is wedged between solid rock and a much larger also loose block. If either of these loose blocks comes free, it will probably be bad for the belayer.
Jun 5, 2015
Fun fun route! Use both sides of the arete as necessary; not only keeps the route at grade (although it felt way easier than .10b when I on-sighted; my friends disagree), but the airyness while switching back and forth is what makes the climb so fun! Great second pitch - I look forward to leading that next time.
Jul 3, 2012
As of July 2012, right before topping out at the P1 anchors, there is a smallish prominent "tooth" that would be a sweet jug right on the route, except it's loose. It holds a decent-sized boulder in place, otherwise I would've cleaned it off. Chalked it up with an X. If you pull it, it will go right at your belayer. Just be careful.
Jun 30, 2012
By staying on the face and clipping the third bolt and then continuing on the face to the 4th bolt, I felt that this was much harder than a 5.10b. I would rate those two bolts (from 2-3 and 3-4) as a 5.10d and the rest as around a 5.10a/b. Also, I felt that after the arete, when you throw a high right foot and step up, that this was a fairly committed move with slabby feet and not extremely positve hands. A bit of a balancing act for the whole climb.
Aug 13, 2011
I didn't read the description very well and went right onto Tag Team after the 5th bolt on the 1st pitch so I'll have to go back and do it straight up. The crux at the third bolt can be climbed 10a by staying to the right of the bolt, or if you use the holds on the left of the arete I thought it was 5.9. Of all the pitches I've climbed on Tonnere I felt this route was truest to its original grade.
Oct 4, 2008
We stitched the two pitches together to make one, long wonderful sport climb at near 60 meters. It's worth doing only if you don't mind the full weight of the rope at the top as well as have ~20 QDs in your possession.
Aug 20, 2008
Never having climbed the route before, I *thought* the crux was a little testy for Boulder Canyon .10b. Hard .10 seems right for the step right in Ron's photo. Thanks Michael. The first pitch and the first 1/3 of the second pitch are really nice: devious climbing that doesn't end at the third bolt crux. 2 1/2 stars (can we give half stars?)
Aug 22, 2007
It's worth noting that the original line on the first pitch stepped right at the third bolt, but that was prior to a loose block being cleaned. I revisited this route a couple of days ago and this move still goes, but more likely at hard ten or 11a. To keep the grade at 10b, swing out left to easier holds.
Aug 3, 2007
- Total Eclipse
I led the first pitch. Totally believe the 5.9 rating. It was fantastic, really enjoyable set of gyrations needed to get around on it. I believe I moved a little far left, clipped into a bolt from Tag Team and went under the roof before moving right back onto the route. If you're interested in an exciting little variation, that one's totally worthwhile.
Jul 14, 2013
I can't really comment on the grade of this route, because I don't even think I was on it. I have no idea how I ended up doing this, but I started at the slab for Total Eclipse, at the roof ended up going straight over at the Tag Team one move wonder .10d (which I thought was .10c) and then ended up at the anchors for Toe The Line...still a fun climb though! Haha
Jul 4, 2011
Surprised it was bolted as recently as it is - very clean and overall fun route.
Aug 25, 2010
Thanks to everyone for all the hard work and $$$ for equipping the routes. I had a blast climbing up there and will be back soon. Peace.
May 23, 2008
Maybe worth a read: alpinist.com/doc/web08s/new… Thanks to the first ascensionists for the hard work and good routes up at Tonnere. Obviously a bunch of time, effort, and dough spent up there.
Apr 29, 2008
"Totally clips" -- a Robbins caliber pun. Yes, it can be climbed with gear. It's also a pleasant sport climb. Does it really matter?
Jul 30, 2007
Last week I met Ron at this crag, and I must say it was a pleasure. He was incredibly nice and offered detailed info on his new routes. Regardless of your stance on "ethics" of climbing and what gear you choose to use when you climb, Ron deserves thanks for putting up these routes. He was covered in dirt the day we met and his shins looked pretty destroyed from all his work. I can't say that many climbers I've met in Boulder would work so hard. I've now climbed a lot of the routes here and they're great. Save your ethics and politicking for next year's election. Thanks, Ron.
Jul 20, 2007
I sincerely appreciate all the work that went into cleaning this route, but there really isn't a need for bolts on this climb. Bring a light rack and a 60m rope and you can send this in one nice long pitch. Felt like a 5.8/5.9 at Lumpy Ridge. Two 60's for the rap, maybe two 50's would reach not totally sure.
Jul 13, 2007
A good route that can also be protected trad. Take a rack if you like to place gear. The runouts will be fairly mild.
Jun 16, 2007
The first pitch is nice and makes you think. The second pitch is fabulous!
Jun 11, 2007
- Up and Left - Lone Unknown Route
- Treasure Wall
- Bobby's Back
Fun route, really thin and slabby, but I agree with Bill, if you use the right-facing ledge the grade drops significantly.
Oct 7, 2012
Using the right-facing edge at the crux makes this route easier than its grade, imo. And it's well within reach. Great route!
Oct 8, 2011
The climb is interesting, but like lots of crowded sports lines, I kept asking myself "is this on?" Leading it, my left arm was never more than and inch or two right of the vertical line created by bolts, but depending on what you grab with your right, the difficulty can greatly vary. On lead I was stemmed to make the second bolt clip (pretty much right under the bolt), and then without taking a step, but just by shifting my weight on to the hold my right foot was on, I could reach the arete. I'm pretty sure that isn't how the line is intended based on the 10d rating. I would say using that arete the climb is no harder than 10b. I then tried variations on TR. Using that downward pointing flake just below the little bush/tree on the corner instead of the arete the route felt like it was about 10d, maybe even 11a (is the next hold on the right off? I could clip while holding it...). I played with going to the left of the bolts, but that was definitely harder and I gave up on that (probably at least mid 11, but I can't say since I gave up...).
Jul 11, 2009
A nice little route that delivers more challenge than would appear from the ground.
Sep 8, 2008
I'm curious. Was the fixed lost arrow towards the top of this present prior to the recent ascents and cleaning? No doubt it would have been from an ascent of the crack system just right of this climb if so, but it should have precluded that top bolt placement. I found the route to be 5.11. I warmed up on it not knowing what it was and went left (ha ha on me). I and my partner each took falls when we scaled off or broke off a foothold or chunk of one, but the climbing is now presently pretty solid overall. I can see the reason for the first two bolts (the second one held my fall) and the third, albeit just below a bomber stopper placement, is clipped overhead just before an insecure move (crux?), but the rest of the bolts are within inches of good gear placements. Perhaps this should have been a mixed route?
Sep 22, 2007
Rate it by the path of least resistance, which, in this case, goes straight up the bolt line. That's how routes have traditionally been rated. I would agree with the mid 5.10 rating. Fun crux.
Sep 19, 2007
Fun little line. If you like thin slab stuff, give it a try. Climbing slightly left of the bolts, seemed like a couple 11 moves. Otherwise 10c/d. Didn't know how to rate it due to the variations. Enjoyed playing on it, though.
Sep 19, 2007
Fun climb even if short. Interesting crux. I think 11c would be a more accurate rating (based on leading it).
Jul 29, 2007
- Buried Treasure
About 3/4 of the way up the first pitch, there is a loose chunk of rock that's covered in chalk, because it is supposed to be the hold for a particular move. It looks ready to fall off if someone pulls it with a bodyweight amount of force. The belayer in particular should be aware of this, because it is eventually going to fall and it looks like it weighs 15-20 pounds. I climbed this on Thursday, September 21.
Sep 23, 2017
Buried Alive feels like the most natural line of pitches. Very fun three-pitch 5.9. Great intro for aspiring 5.9 leaders. Carry your approach shoes, as the walk-off is much easier and faster than rapping. Pitch 1: (Buried Treasure) 5.8- Pitch 2: (Buried Treasure) 5.6 Pitch 3: (Staying Alive crux) 5.9.
Oct 30, 2014
I combined the last pitch of Buried Treasure with the last pitch of Staying Alive, which resulted in much rope drag. However, this does make for a long and enjoyable pitch, just make sure you have several long runners and consider back cleaning or skipping some bolts.
Sep 21, 2014
I lead this today, with the Buried Alive linkup, and enjoyed it quite a bit. I would definitely put the third pitch at 5.10a, and I think the first route goes at 8+, if only for the sequence right by the tree. There's a nice two/three finger pocket that makes it much easier, but without it, I can't see the pitch going lower than 8+. To anyone doing the three pitch linkup, I would recommend anchoring on the two bolts at the top of Stayin' Alive's first pitch, rather than the bolts on Buried Treasure. There might be some drag up the second pitch, but this anchor is visible to the bottom belayer (the normal anchor is not), and the zig-zag out left to the first bolt only to move back right to the second bolt made for a pretty nasty fall when I took the wrong approach. All that said, I really enjoyed the route. The crux on p3 (the finger crack dihedral section IMO) was fantastic!
Jun 30, 2013
Did the "Buried Alive" variation this afternoon. So awesome, highly recommended! The first pitch is a fun 5.8 with some cool moves (I'm a newer leader so if you're really experienced maybe not as fun). The second pitch is pretty short but has some neat exposure. The real fun is doing the last pitch of "Stayin' Alive", 5.10a. Just awesome... like I said I'm a newer leader, so this felt pretty exhilarating for me. Regardless, I think this route is well worth doing. Great views of Boulder Falls (had lots of tourists staring/pointing/taking pictures of us while climbing lol...) and great climbing. One complaint: if you don't have runners or slings, there is definitely some serious drag on that third pitch. As to all the trad vs. bolts debate... sure this route could definitely be done on gear, but some people don't have a rack (myself included); someday I hope to lead trad and have a full rack and maybe I will come back and do this all on gear, but let's face it, this is Boulder Canyon... it's bolted out the wazoo... you wouldn't be preserving anything by taking the bolts off this unless you somehow took the bolts off the other 700 some odd sport routes in the canyon. (In other words... have pity on those of us not fortunate enough to have a full rack.)
Jun 12, 2012
Just climbed "Buried Treasure" this afternoon, and I must say this has got to be one of my all-time favorite climbs. It's been so hard finding quality, bolted, multi-pitch routes in the canyon. It really is "Buried Treasure," as finding a route this well-bolted with this much vertical climbing in such a bomber spot is really discovering something new. That said, please don't retro-bolt or remove bolts from this route. I'm new to climbing, and I'm hoping to eventually become a trad leader doing multi-pitch climbing. The standard progression for a climber learning to lead trad is to lead sport routes before attempting to lead trad. We need routes like these still available for amateurs like myself to practice the belay transition, hauling, and top-belay systems that are crucial to know when doing a multi-pitch and/or big wall climb. The bolts aren't affecting where you place your trad gear, so please cut us a break and leave the route as it is. I'll promise to approach it in a year with my trad gear.
Apr 23, 2012
Fantastic climb -- especially when the 3rd pitch is added in the "Buried Alive" variation. This climb is worth doing again!
Apr 21, 2012
Good route. First pitch is a solid 5.9 with the second quite a bit easier. A great first multi-pitch, or just a fun climb for the more experienced. I for one am glad that it's bolted. I took a less experienced friend on his first multi pitch, and was glad to be able to just climb a moderate sport route with him his first time. It's nice to have a few of these longer sport routes in the canyon to teach or just have fun on. Leave the bolts up!
Nov 1, 2011
Great route with some interesting variety and expansive views. The bolts near the bottom felt a little widely spaced for my tastes. I was glad the route didn't require dragging up trad gear, giving it a more modern feel than some of the "mixed" routes in the Canyon. This area would be relegated to an obscure footnote in an aging guidebook without the bolting effort. Instead, parties were lined up waiting to play on clearly popular routes -- good work!
Oct 27, 2011
Good climbing, nice positions, but would be better had it been done as a trad climb
Oct 14, 2011
Fun route! I felt it was no harder than 5.8, and no more than 5.9 on the direct variations.
Oct 8, 2011
Climbed "Buried Alive" variation and while this link up could go on gear it was a great line and sometimes clippin' bolts is fun.
Jul 5, 2011
I can see where you'd place gear.... But I think some of the bolts are "necessary" near the top of the first pitch. The bolts are there, it would be stupid to remove them, live and let live. This place saw no attention before Ron O, Bob D and crew so they should develop it how they saw fit. What used to be an overgrown, mossy POS crag now sees 20+ climbers on a sunday afternoon. Overall, it is pretty overrated. 5.9?!?
Aug 29, 2010
With the Buried Alive linkup, this was awesome. As a new leader who has yet to place a single trad piece, I appreciate that this is bolted. Thanks to the FAs.
Aug 27, 2010
Did the Buried Alive extension and continued on the third pitch...seems like it would be good to carry some longer runners as I experienced a lot of rope friction leading up.
May 21, 2010
Yo admins, why were my comments about this climb removed?! The Cascade Creek discussion prompted me to look back at some of the prior comments I made after doing most of the Tonnere Tower climbs, but they are all gone! I simply don't understand, are only glowing reviews of this climb acceptable? FWIW, I climbed this specific route and found that the overwhelming number of bolts, especially those on the third pitch next to the crack in the corner, to greatly detract from the climb and the overall experience of the wall. It could have been a great route.
Oct 21, 2009
E Johnson: Birds get to fly because they have wings, fish get to live underwater because they have gills, and trad climbers get to climb cracks because they use equipment available since the late '70s that protect cracks without leaving a mark. If you want to climb cracks, learn to place gear in them. No one is making you climb cracks, go nuts on bolted slabs! Just skip the bolts, I mean cracks! Just because the rock can be bolted doesn't mean it should be. Placing a nut in a crack and removing it when you're done should preclude drilling a hole in the rock and pounding some metal into it. Jeff Welch: I carried a light trad rack up the 5 minute approach because I heard they over-bolted the place and wanted to skip the bolts, yes.
Sep 16, 2009
Buried Treasure was intentionally created as a sport route, to provide an easy multi-pitch clip-up for newer climbers (this is how we rationalize bolting cracks). In almost all places, it can also be protected with trad gear. If you prefer to place gear, bring your trad rack (nuts and cams up to 1") and see how many bolts you can skip. If you prefer to clip bolts, bring your quickdraws, no nuts needed.
Sep 16, 2009
Traddies have been driving past this crag and route for at least 50 years to get to Castle Rock, yet never bothered to do it. It was hardly cutting edge difficulty, even 50 years ago, so you can't use "too hard" as an excuse. If it hadn't been bolted, it would probably remain undone, or at best, obscure. As it is, it's a fun, easy, well-protected multipitch climb that seems to get regular traffic. I doubt that would be the case if the bolts were removed. I bet not a single person would have carried a rack up here if not for the "see how many bolts you can skip" challenge posed by the FA.
Sep 3, 2009
Concering a loose anchor, The nut is loose on the left anchor. I still rapped down from both but would not recommend this to anyone! The anchors are mentioned above in the beta. The anchors atop the second pitch, 15 feet to left (I believe these are the anchors to one of the routes on the right of Sport Land) of the typical second pitch anchors.
Aug 29, 2009
Bolts or gear, the buried alive link is a blast. Nice work guys! Look forward to going back for more on Tonnere. -KT
Oct 30, 2008
Guess what, there are climbers who don't climb trad. And never will. While trad climbers can choose not to use the bolts and put their gear in the cracks (the bolts aren't in their way in the cracks), but if you lead sport, what? you are sorry out of luck because a bunch of purists get to decide when rock gets bolted?? I was up at Exit 38 in WA appreciating the rare opportunity to have lots of moderate sport routes to gain lead experience on and then thought about Boulder Canyon, or Boulder in general and how there are all these people who think "if it's protectable, nearby bolts are an abomination and should be chopped". As much as I love where I live and the granite of the canyon and the close proximity of a lot climbing, it was a drag thinking about the attitudes I would be returning to. It's just rock climbing, people, and there are different styles. Why should trad preclude sport climbing? Sport climbers aren't stopping trad climbers from doing their thing. As soon as you step off a trail you've changed nature. As soon as you apply sticky shoe rubber to the rock, you are aiding. Live and let live.
Oct 3, 2008
I would like to express my sincere thanks and appreciation to Ron Olsen, Bruno Hache, Bob D'Antonio, Ken Cangi and others who contributed their considerable time, effort, expense and expertise to create the climbing routes that are now to be found on Tonnere Tower. Please keep up your excellent work. I climbed at this area for the first time today and had a truly outstanding day of climbing. I will be back for more.
Sep 21, 2008
As a new climber, doing mostly top ropes, just learning to lead some sport routes but having no experience placing gear yet, this route was a blast! Went with a better climber and actually led the middle pitch. Thanks for putting this up!
Sep 19, 2008
If put to a vote, I would support chopping all but two bolts on this route. Leave the anchors; that is fine, but the bolts next to the cracks should be removed. With that said, this is an excellent route. I really enjoyed my experiences today at the tower. Thank you FA folk.
Aug 8, 2008
Dear Buried Treasure, We first met at the suggestion of a friend, he told me I'd like you and that you were fun. Boy, he was right! We had some good times, didn't we? Sure, I may have gotten a little off-track with you here or there, but I always came back! I'm sorry it had to end - it's not you, it's me! I like you just the way you are. Don't you ever change! -Mark P.S. I'll come visit again soon.
Jun 2, 2008
I led this yesterday with a set of cams and stoppers. I feel it is rather well protected. As Tony has stated above, I think this route should be considered for retro-unbolting with the first ascentionist's permission. I think the bolts left of the crack on P2 of Staying Alive are an atrocity. This part of the climb in particular is well protected and does not warrant permanent fixtures. I encourage other 5.9 leaders to lead the route traditionally and weigh in on the issue. For those looking to lead this marvelous climb, a set of stoppers (every other size will probably do) and cams to 2 1/2 inches will be suitable, perhaps with doubles in the 1/2->1 inch sizes. -chris
May 26, 2008
One of the better lines in this part of the wall, sadly, it deserves no more than 2 bolts. Lead ground-up on gear while cleaning it, the only bolts that tempted me were those leading out right to gain the arete 2/3 up, but I found myself on 5.8 jugs anyway... Both bolts there are OK, but only one was really needed to protect the moves. If those had been the only bolts this would read differently, but that is not the case. I cleaned a lot of cracks out with my nut tool and sewed the climb up as I liked, save for that one place. It's a shame it was not done in mixed or trad style, in my opinion. This is a good candidate for the FA party to reconsider the bolts on. In my opinion, the route would be improved.
Sep 22, 2007
With the Buried Alive finish, this climb packs a nice variety of climbing into the three pitches.
Jul 20, 2007
Climbed the "Buried Alive" (p1 & p2 Buried Treasure, p3 Staying Alive) variation last night. Great link-up. The undercling traverse into the V-slot on the final pitch was really fun. Thanks for all of the work you've done on this area Ron!
Jul 17, 2007
- Fields of Gold
Don't rap the gully! What a mess. Did all of that crap come down after the bolts were installed?
May 11, 2009
This makes for an excellent toprope route (and its neighbors) with a 60 meter rope. The rock quality here is particularly high. Also, it can be well led on trad along, but the placements at the end of the dihedral/corner systems are thin.
Aug 8, 2008
It is possible to skip the first 2 or 3 bolts on P1 and climb the corner to the right, which is fun. Tread lightly around the detached flake in the dihedral, though. It would ruin your day if you pulled it out.
Jun 21, 2008
Warning!!!! Loose block at the start of P2, Fields of Gold, Tonnere Tower On 5/29/08, just up & right of the P1 two-bolt anchor (the one 20ft right of the P1 lowering anchor) there is a very loose block. It's about three 30 inches tall and a 12 inches wide. I attempted to pull down on it leaving the ledge and it shifted. It's currently detached from the main wall and in place because of the dirt and mud behind it. Cleaning it was not at the time because several parties were below. Have said that the route was amazing!! Thanks Ron! Scott Murray
May 30, 2008
What an awesome mixed route for Boulder Canyon, nice crag... Climbed this with Matt G 5/17. Update on the traverse from the lowering bolts to the 2nd pitch belay bolts... only one of the two dead pine trees left, the other is in the gully below... if rappelling from the 2nd pitch, tie in and downclimb on belay to the low anchors, saves time... Sweet route, thanks to Bob & Ron.
May 18, 2008
READ!!: If lowering off the the first pitch, make sure that your belayer is tied in or that you have a stopper knot in your 60M rope. Awesome route with varied climbing!
Oct 10, 2007
- Join The Party
The large loose flakes have been removed. There is some dirt on the rock there now. It will take a few rains or a brush to clean it up, but you can climb around it just fine as well.
Jul 15, 2015
There's a new loose block halfway up the route. It's to the right of an arete, at about 55', just before getting to the bulge described above (70'). It's very tempting to place gear behind it, but do not! I marked it with an "X".
Jun 5, 2015
The death block directly below the anchors is gone, but it could use some cleanup as there is some dirt and small stuff still in place. Still a lot of loose stuff above the tree.
Jul 6, 2014
Be careful! There are now quite a few loose blocks on this one, including a ~50 lb. loose/detached flake right below the anchors that looks like a very inviting handhold but is actually precariously balanced on another loose rock right below it. I tried to figure out a way to remove it when I lead this route today, but there were too many people at the base to do it safely. I marked an "X" on it with chalk, but it rained right after we left, so I doubt that will stay. Someone should probably remove the flake when there are less people around -- it's beyond ready to go.
Jul 27, 2013
Fun route! Takes gear well. I used a SR to 2" since that's what the guidebook calls out. No problem, but new leaders might want to take a 3" and 4" for the wider section.
Jul 3, 2012
Worthwhile trad route with interesting route-finding, but an oddball grade. About 5.8 or VS 4c at Tremadog.
Oct 14, 2011
Believe it or not, I was initially accused of sandbagging by the area developers! The grade was reflective of the FA condition lead for a single move up on the quartz up high while cleaning on FA, relative to other routes here. With that considered, it was set to more closely match the others at the crag than what we would have otherwise given it. A compromise, perhaps and certainly not representative of other areas. I note in the book, it has been given 9+.... It is probably easier since this thing cleaned up a little. The nice thing about "voting" the grade here is that over time it will come to consensus. Please do 'vote' the grade as you feel is appropriate here.
Sep 26, 2010
I'm surprised you did the first ascent of this route and graded it Tony, because usually I agree with your grades. I thought this climb was very easy at 5.9+ and fit well with the overgrading at the rest of the crag. Maybe that was what you were going for? Maybe it has gotten easier as it has cleaned up. The first ~40 feet are cool. After that it was pretty nondescript until the cool final moves on the quartz crystals at the top. If the middle cleaned up a little more it would get better. Also there was a head-sized block loose right below the anchors. We didn't trundle it due to the large amount of people below in the direct firing line.
Aug 29, 2010
- Tree Line
This is a good warm up route for the area. It is probably easier on the left than the right.
Jun 10, 2013
As good a lead on gear as bolts. RPs or similar required, but with that, reasonably protected. With some craftiness or ball-nuts, it can be sewn-up.
Sep 22, 2007
A good climb for newcomers to outdoor routes. If memory serves, the line can be climbed using the crack system to the left of the bolts (which probably goes at around 5.8), or on the face to the right of the bolts (probably 5.9).
Sep 19, 2007
- Twilight Kid, The
I didn't use the tree, but I climbed up the tree crack a bit and stepped right. Maybe the people who give it harder grades take a different line and stay substantially right of the tree. If so, that's fine, but it would be contrived to climb it that way. A pretty good route whatever the grade.
Sep 4, 2017
First, if you using the tree left of the crux moves at the 5th bolt, you're cheating. The first time I climbed this route, I led it rope solo & didn't argue with the 5.11a grade. The crux is brief, & I can go with 5.10d but not 5.10c or easier. The crux moves are harder than any move on Sidekick (.10d). If you wish to add another hard section, stay left of the 8th bolt, & climb the dihedral via the thin crack.
Jun 18, 2017
This is the route by the right tree. The warm-up routes are by the left tree...learned that the hard way. Took three falls figuring out the crux; couldn't get my feet to stay on. Surprisingly clean falls though. If I would have known this was originally an 11-, I never would have attempted it. Probably 10b/c being the hardest grades I've sent.
Sep 17, 2016
A beautiful and fun climb (if you like slopey, crimpy, slab climbing). My partner and I both found this route significantly easier than Bobby's Back, which goes at .10d. I would say .10b/c tops for this one. But still a great climb well worth doing!
Aug 27, 2015
At what point is the tree mid-route "off"? It is mighty tempting to grab, hug, shimmy, and stem (perhaps contibuting to the down-grading).
Jun 5, 2015
Great climb with solid rock, good features, and an interesting crux. Potential for a decent fall if you don't clip before trying the crux. I agree that this probably goes at the mid-10 range rather than 11-, great climb though.
Oct 29, 2014
This certainly is not 5.11, maybe 10d but no harder.
Jun 10, 2013
This is the easiest 5.10 in the universe.
Jun 6, 2013
This is a wonderful climb. If you like balancy, delicate moves, definitely check it out.
Oct 1, 2007
Great moves between the small tree and the anchor.
Sep 14, 2007
Did the 2nd ascent, 5 minutes after Bob did the 1st. Fun moves on the upper slab. This one should clean up well.
Sep 9, 2007
- Twilight Time
FYI: 3rd bolt is apparently a little loose. My partner tried to hand tighten it...and then whipped on it...it stayed put. Climbing itself is a ton of fun. Not very hard if you climb creatively.
Apr 14, 2015
I wouldn't come to the crag for this one, but we had a lot of fun on it when we were there. The stemming moves above the third bolt are great! I don't think I could call this 10a, though there are much easier 9s in the canyon.
Jul 12, 2014
This climb is probably easier clipping bolts than placing gear, but it ain't harder than 5.9 as a sport route.
Aug 29, 2010
Nice line and you can also then top rope the route to the right if you wish.
Sep 8, 2008
I lead it on gear, cleaning the little cracks up as I went. It goes 5.9+ on gear, no real runouts if you have some brass or steel. If I'd had ball nuts I would have sewn it up tight. A majority of the route goes easily without bolts, some I had to tinker with, but it was all protected.
Sep 22, 2007
Pleasant line. I believe (?) that in addition to the anchor, the last bolt is also shared with Bobby's Back. At least, I clipped it. Nice hooks for anchors!
Sep 19, 2007
Fun route.
Sep 2, 2007
- Workingman's Blues
Not a great climb, and the best climbing on it is already covered by Fields of Gold. There are a few interesting sections of 5.7-5.9 climbing stitched together by long sections of loose rock on scrambling. Felt like an "alpine" 5.8+. Blah.... It is hard to give it a bomb, but it's also hard to give it a star. The second pitch was the deciding factor for my partner and I. Not much can save that experience.
Jun 30, 2009
- Tortoise Boulder
- Tower of Babel
- Babylon is Burning
- Pinnacle
- Unknown
- Ziggurat
Stopped here today while returning to the car from Boulder Slips. We couldn't resist the tower, even though it's towards the limit of our ability! The creek wasn't raging, but our feet would be submerged on belay, which would probably lead to pretty frozen feet after your shift holding your partner up. Our choice was to go around the side and start from the cheater's start. We spent a lot of time working the route, crimpy, minimal holds, not bad feet though. I'm going to work on being a stronger climber, bring some waders to stand in the creek with, and return for a rematch.
Apr 13, 2012
- Trespass Rock
- Trout Rock
- Cutthroat
Of the four routes here, this seemed to be the most difficulty. Hard slab climbing.
Aug 30, 2013
- Greenback
Better than it looks, and fairly sustained all the way. I didn't really notice a distinct crux, and blowing the 2nd clip would be bad. Overall, I enjoyed this one.
Jul 10, 2014
I'm with Chris, if you miss the second clip you could hit the ledge. Short folks might be happier to pre-hang the draw on the second bolt.
Jul 1, 2011
Ledge fall possible getting to 2d bolt.
Aug 29, 2010
- Griffon
The best route on the rock by virtue of the interesting and unique moves; a measured compliment. If you could put all 4 routes end-to-end, you'd have something long enough to consider an actual pitch of rock. Worth doing if you are there, and hardly a long approach.
Oct 10, 2005
There is now a 2-bolt anchor that can be used for both The Griffon and Where's Vaino.
Sep 19, 2005
- Trout Farm, The
- Where's Vaino?
I can't in good conscience call this 10a. Maybe if it were 100 feet longer. It's sustained and has good moves, so it is worth doing if you're in the area, but don't worry too much about the grade. The crux for me was getting off the ledge.
Jul 11, 2014
Kind of a typical Boulder crack, in that if you stacked about 5 of them on top of each other, it would add up to a good route. The climbing is interesting, but quite short.
Aug 16, 2010
This route is about 33 feet tall. Not 25 feet, but not 50 feet either. It does have a few interesting moves, but nothing worthy of note in terms of salient qualities or my own objective experiences on it. After we climbed on the 'Beer Can Rock' we went looking for this rock. One of my partners looked at the rock and summed it up, asking: "That tiny thing? Why would I want to climb anything on that?" She elected to join others in our group who agreed and went climbing elsewhere. Chris & I stayed and climbed every route on the rock at a relaxed pace in a span of 45 minutes. I don't regret it, but in a few weeks I won't remember it anyway.
Oct 10, 2005
- Truth or Consequences Crag aka Inca Stone
- Alter, The
- Elegant Peasant
This is called "Elegant Pleasure" in the new D'Antonio guide, but it is called "Elegant Peasant" in the Rolofson and Rossiter guides. It takes mostly small cams and nuts for protection.
Aug 15, 2014
- Inca Stone
- Jamie
This is a good climb, but it feels difficult for a 10c. There are no good rests in the upper crack. Be prepared for difficulty.
Aug 16, 2014
I flailed on this on the lead. Thought it was in the 10+ range. The individual moves are not quite that hard but always low 10 or harder, they are tricky and easy to screw up, and the rests are marginal. Gear placements are always from tenuous stances. Dan Hare (FA) was there as I was struggling on this, and he remembered it being hard and tenuous. Gear: Double Aliens from green to red (single if you place them in the correct sequence) and a couple of nuts in the 1/4" to 3/8" range. I placed a gold/#2 Camalot into the good jam, but that turned out to be a mistake. Better to make the move and place a smaller cam in the rattly finger lock above.
Feb 5, 2006
- Left Side [Truth or Consequences]
- Prayer Wheel
Have to say it was a bit taller than 15 feet, Maybe 20-25 but still only took 2-3 pieces that will actually do anything due to the to the small rock wall behind/under the belay. You can very easily go in between this route and its neighbor to add some spice if desired.
Aug 26, 2013
- Sacrificial Virgin
This thing felt tough for the grade.
Apr 20, 2012
Unless you're awful darn tall, the 4th bolt is hard (strenuous, pumpy) to clip and the fall is not going to be at all nice if you blow it while clipping. Go for this one fresh.
Jun 10, 2004
- Speak Softly
This crack is not a good climb. There are loose blocks in the crack, and the pro is not good near the bottom. I top roped it. A lead would be scary!
Aug 16, 2014
- Treadmill, The
Agree with Tony on this one, felt tough. It was pretty cold when I did it, fingers and toes totally dead, but it still seemed like it would be fairly tough in conditions. Weird feet and kind of weird gear. Worth doing if you are there.
Jan 11, 2009
Even with finding the kneebars and the good hold below the roof I thought that this route felt like 5.11, and definitely not like 5.10c.
Jun 5, 2006
- Truth Serum
This is not much taller than a boulder problem, but it is somewhat taller. I found a few good pieces of pro. I placed two nuts which seemed "bomber".
Aug 1, 2014
- Unnamed
I too thought this route was easier than 5.11. I think it is a little harder than 10a but not much. You make a difficult move, and then it is over.
Aug 1, 2014
I wondered what this route was when I did it (only have the Rositer guide) and after i did it, I penciled in: Unknown, 5.9+, That was my honest best guess. I'm not trying to be inflamitory, but I honestly believe this route was no harder than 5.10a. I can't say it is any harder than Cosmosis (9+), let alone Gates Of Eden (10a). It is nowhere near as hard as Left Wing (10c). I was up there and did it in the drizzle. Even a pal who hadn't climbed for a year (an has never made an 11 in his life) was able to do the moves. We saw the extra bolt-hole too. I bet it was not placed/removed because it wouldn't keep you off of the ankle-raking boulder behind the route anyway.
May 10, 2002
- Venom
- Warm Up
This and "The Altar" seemed contrived to follow right over their bolt lines as there is easier climbing within in reach just to the R ond L respectively. Nevertheless, staying right on top of the bolts is much better climbing, and this one felt like .11a when done that way which has to be the "bolter's intention"?
Jan 23, 2012
OK, 10d if climbed to the right of the bolts, and the crux was low. But with your 'belly-to-the-bolts' or to the left it felt like a solid 5.11 with the crux being up high.
Jun 5, 2006
- Tungsten Mine Shaft
- Heart of Darkness
I have heard that the large spike at the start has detached and this route may be much harder now.
Aug 4, 2008
I looked at that line. There might be an issue with rock quality.
Jun 12, 2008
The line to the right of HOD looks cool, wish it were bolted....
Jun 12, 2008
I too was unable to clip the 5th bolt, and took the big whip (from high on the lip) several times before finally redpointing the route. The fall is safe, although you do come somewaht close to hitting the ledge. Great route, solid V8/V9 crux. Kudos to Pete Beal.
Jan 28, 2005
I am curious if anyone has beta for the fifth clip, which is the clip right above the roof and at the end of the crux.I can't find holds good enough to let go and clip with the right hand. The only thing I can think of is to skip the clip, but if you blow it high on the lip you risk hitting the ledge below. Any thoughts would be appreciated.Thanks in advance!
Dec 13, 2004
Just a thank you to whoever stole the carabiners I left on the anchor. 15 year old microlights, hmm...I hope they never get put to the test.
Oct 17, 2001
- Neuromuscular Toxin
Great route, very steep.
Nov 8, 2013
- Turtle Rock: A Crag for Kids
- Unknown Crag (across from Lost Rock)
- Vampire Rock
- A.C.E.
I tried cleaning this on the lower today, and it worked absolutely fine, so don't let Tony's comment deter you. One trick to rope drag reduction on this pitch is to back clean the first draw after the final overlap.
Aug 15, 2006
- Blood Doll
I lowered the crux bolt (last bolt) about a foot so it is now possible to clip before starting the deceptive crux moves. Be careful when lowering off this pitch (when linking this with Pincushion) as a 60 M rope will just make it to the Pincushion anchors.
Jul 1, 2008
AC, are you trying to imply that you did the first ascent? You did not, my anonymous friend. First off, I redpointed the route at least a day (or days?) before Dan sent it, and we leave the tag on projects until we have both redpointed it. Second, what the hell are you doing climbing on someone's project that has a red tag on it? Cheers, BobL
Sep 20, 2004
Funny to hear that the name is related to the bike accident. I climbed it about an hour after the crash, in one pitch from the ground (with a 60 meter you can get lowered back to the top of Pincushion, although the belayer needs to be mighty careful). It had a whole buch of quickdraws on it and a red string on the first bolt (which is always good motivation...). The climbing up top is quite fun, delicate and not very obvious.
Sep 20, 2004
- Bureau (Pitch 1), The
Stop reading if you don't want beta: The bad sloper at the first overlap can be avoided all together. Before pulling the overlap work the feet as far right as possible. Hands on the good undercling. Move the left hand up to the high side pull (just right of the bolt) while leaning way right. Work the feet up. Right hand to slightly slopey crimp (just above and right of the sidepull the left hand is on). From here, it's one move up to better holds. Cell phone video of crux sequence: youtube.com/watch?v=9JeCnVq…
Sep 21, 2015
Great route. Shady until late afternoon, and somewhat protected by rain from a roof above. I don't really dyno at the crux; I do more of a lieback off the terrible right sloper. It's important to lean left for the sloper to be effective. I then let go of the left undercling and statically--but quickly--get the jug rail above. The route is not long but I find it pumpy. This and Wanker P1 are my favorite pitches at Vampire. I'm not sure whence the name derives.
Aug 28, 2009
- Chupacabra
Pretty good. Pitches can be linked with good sling work if you don't sling the anchor and go right after clipping the top bolt with a 2' sling. The rope line is direct that way. Makes a maybe 150' pitch or so. 2 cruxes: 1) The poorly protected move to the right on P2 in the crumbly rock with bad gear and a questionable flake is probably 5.9+... if your arms are long enough to span it on the best holds. If not, then harder on worse rock and holds. 2) The roof, which is somewhere in the 5.10 range depending on finger size. My thin fingers were not the best answer. My partner told me I also missed a "bucket" hold (incut), and I just kept climbing. Yes, a red Alien would have been nice there. I ran it out a little instead of getting pumped trying to put a Camalot Jr. in (which is what I had). The Aliens/FCUs/etc. are going to be better, since the crack is not a nice parallel crack - they'll fit in there. There are a few insecure moves after the roof that might have you pausing if you just ran it out 15'..., but with narrow cams or medium offsets that should not be an issue.
Jul 15, 2017
Nice pitch. Kinda exciting from the new sport climb anchor to the crux roof. The crack is grainy and exfoliating with a large flake that is not very solid. Once to the crux roof, the gear becomes great. Good call on bringing extra big fingers gear. There was no way I was downclimbing to the good, bad, and jacked anchor. I left a bomber #9 stopper and biner and lowered to that anchor. It would be nice if it stayed there for an easy descent. I assume an anchor is out of the question because of the proximity to the Vampire, an old established route, but it would make repeating this route more enjoyable. 10+, 11- seems about right.
Jun 3, 2017
Ken: "Can the ratings of each pitch be added to the description? Thanks." Done.
Sep 13, 2016
Can the ratings of each pitch be added to the description? Thanks.
Sep 9, 2016
I won't rate it, because I didn't get it clean, but I think this is harder than 5.10+. Big fingers would help. Pretty cool short pitch.
Jul 29, 2016
- Climb-Eye-Knight
The bolt line suggested to me to stay left and lieback a weirdly featured arete on the upper part of the pitch, but that seemed silly once I moved into the small open book with a fine finger crack. It's a worthy pitch even if the start feels brushy and grungy.
Aug 20, 2017
The climbing is decent, but it is quite dirty, and the bolting seemed all over the map. Many of the bolts weren't visible from below, so you pay attention or you might miss them. It seemed like the easy sections had bolts 3 feet apart, and the weird moves weren't protected as well. If this grade is at your limit, I'm not sure I would recommend it.
Sep 19, 2012
At the "finger crack", if you proceed up the bolt line (the finger crack is a bit to the right of the bolt line) I think it's harder than 10b. Anybody else try it on the bolt line? There's a move with a left hand fin that's harder than the finger crack. I thought it was a fun, long (about 80 ft) line - 10 bolts, Rolofson book says 8....
Aug 11, 2008
Despite its looks, this is a pretty decent route. Left around the corner from The Bureau, it's hidden and obviously sees little traffic; it could use some cleaning. It was more challenging than I'd imagined. At the first roof, I got crunched underneath on poor feet. Above that, the holds are consistently slopey. Stem as much as possible.
Aug 9, 2008
- Crack of Desperation
Three stars for general weirdness at the crux, but that may be a little generous. Also seemed to take very good gear (save #3 C4 for crux) although not all rock quality was perfect. I traversed right into the bolted climb some ways above the crux. Brought back memories of when I first tried, probably close to 20 years ago--as a crack newb then I was somewhat overmatched.
Sep 11, 2017
Climbed this route again years after the first time. The rock is quite a bit worse than I remember. I recommend a #4 for the roof so you can place it deeper in the ear where it's less of a flake. You could also take another large cam to place lower on the pitch where the rock is crap instead of searching for the couple of ok places deeper in the crack. Now that I'm done bashing the route, the roof move is fun!
Oct 9, 2016
I thought this pitch was really fun. The jamming up to the roof thing is solid even though the rock is a little quartzy (weak). Before firing the roof, get a shake on the jug to the left on the arete - the exposure is quite nice. After the roof, I wanted to go straight up on the left, but there really wasn't any pro, so I came down and traversed right to finish with "Trash It and Move On". This finish is good, but make sure you extend after the roof and on the following bolt or you'll have a fair amount of rope drag. Do your best to protect your second on the traverse. I didn't take a number 4 and was fine - there are tons of other opportunities.
Sep 15, 2014
Definitely a spectacular route. Calling it 10a is a legit sandbag, because the crux isn't at all obvious or easy, but with some sussing it goes without any grunting. Not easy ten, but definitely not hard ten, either.
Jun 22, 2010
Far from 3 stars, but worth doing if you're on the ledge above That's Weak. The roof move is easy-5.10 if you find the easiest way, which didn't involve any grovelling
Jul 14, 2004
I found this to be a great route. Definitely an old school-type classic. good pro and solid jams up to the crux roof. The roof goes pretty easily if you walk your feet up the left side until you are horizontal and then reach up. did the climb in '02 and don't remember the sequence that well, but, I found a no hands rest here leaning back after getting my feet up high as mentioned above. I am hardly a solid 5.10 leader, and found this climb to be right on or even a little easy for its grade, though good stemming skills and a strong "head" are required for the exposed crux moves.
Jul 12, 2004
Two thumbs down. Whatever that equals in stars. How the hell did this route get a 5.10a rating? My partner and I both thought is was a lot freaking harder than that- the roof is this huge overhanging flake that only an anorexic person could wedge themselves in to. I'd just like to know how this rating stands, it's pretty darn misleading and could get someone in trouble.
Jul 18, 2003
The original line above the roof went up and left via some funky climbing ,then up and angle right to a ledge about 10 feet above the anchor on "Trash It."
Sep 23, 2002
- Fear of Sunlight
Gotta disagree about the bolting job on this line - definite possibility for unpleasant falls at a few spots along the route, which is a shame, because it's better than the second pitch of Le Stat. also, i'm going to argue that the crux of this climb was more difficult than either P1 or P2 of Le Stat; it involves a tough undercling sequence with shit feet and not-much-better hands. also very beta-intensive. If you're solid at the grade, however, hit this line up, because it's better than P2 of Le Stat for sure.
Jun 22, 2010
We had no idea what we were getting on when we started this pitch yesterday. It looked easier than the bolted line to the right. Get a good belay to start this pitch because you could hit the start ledge if you blow it above the first bolt. After that I thought the route was protected fine. Cool climbing past a few bolts will get you to a 12" wide positive ledge to inspect the crux before you commit. Although the description says you will hit the higher ledge if you blow the crux my partner fell without incident. That said, if you were balancing really close to the wall and came off, you could possible tweak an ankle. Fun route worth doing!
May 14, 2009
- Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The
Put an extra long draw or sling on the 4th bolt of That's Weak if linking pitches to alleviate rope drag. Fantastic route, one of the true gems in BoCan....
Aug 27, 2017
Rule #1. Sorry.
Oct 17, 2013
I agree, one of the best at the grade. Powerful and sustained crux. Technique pays huge dividends here as well as spotting a key rest. This would be a stout onsight. That's theory, of course.
Aug 14, 2013
Phenomenal rock climb. Definitely worth doing the 10a into this pitch for the full value 70m rope stretcher.
Jul 17, 2013
Very well bolted and safe. I think it deserves another star in the guidebook though. Combining it with That's Weak (fun thought provoking 10a) makes for an incredibly long pitch where the climbing gets progressively harder on the upper half. Great route! Tie a knot in the end of your rope....
Aug 31, 2011
One of the best 12a's in the Canyon... climbs kind of like limestone.3 stars when combined with That's Weak. Just wish the meat were longer. A 60m rope will just get you back to the ground with a little shenanigans... definitely keep a knot in the end though.
Jun 23, 2005
Great pitch. Easy to mess up the onsight (as I did!). With the beta it's quite a bit easier. Very well bolted apart from the runout section off the belay.
Jun 19, 2005
one can also lead this from the ground by climbing "thats weak" and going directly into "the good,the bad,and the jacked". makes for a nice long pitch(2 ropes to get off,or 2 rappells)f.a. s.sangdahl,d.salisbury,j.baldwin
Oct 2, 2002
- Heart of the Narrows
First pitch gets a bomb rating, poor bolting and contrived.
May 16, 2017
Scott's right, that bolt near the top of pitch one is poorly placed right at the edge of the roof, so your carbiner gets loaded over the edge. Best to link pitches 1 & 2 as one. Third pitch is barely 5th class, but the fourth pitch is good. Pitch 4 is a lot of 5.10 climbing with a very stout crux move (for me). But it's good, safe and fun. Bring a few small to medium cams to build an anchor at the base of pitch 4 to give an adequate belay. Two raps to the ground with a 70m.
May 24, 2012
What would anyone rate P1? I thought it is harder 10. I think it's worth doing, and the roof is really fun. Nice new anchor at the top, thanks!!
Sep 3, 2009
Unacceptable time frame for beta. I call shinannigans!!! Choss monkey... muuuhahahahahahah
Jul 15, 2008
Patience young grass smoker. More info is on the way...
Jul 15, 2008
Who the hell posts a route with 4 pitches and then only informs users of two of them???? Wassup Aki??? ;) P3 did not look attractive to me. P2 on this route is super sweet. Good rock, solid holds and perty colors.
Jul 10, 2008
The belay at the top of the first pitch consisted of one 3/8" Rawl five-piece bolt and two old, 1/4" bolts. Ron Olsen and I removed the two 1/4" bolts and added a 3/8" SS Rawl five piece bolt. We added quick links and chains to replace the slings for rappel. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
Oct 13, 2005
I know this is the first pitch of a longer route, but standing alone, this pitch is a pile with a poorly placed bolt at the roof.
Jun 28, 2005
- Le Stat
Haha, I agree with Aaron's 5.11++ rating. It makes things more interesting.
Jul 17, 2011
It's undeniable that this routes features decent climbing on good rock, but the cruxes were very beta-dependent; some of the toughest hard 11s I've been on. I think that calling the second pitch 11c is misleading, however. While the crux is less steep than the P1 crux, the holds are smaller and the moves more balance-y. 11++ for both pitches.
Jun 22, 2010
I think 11+ is a good rating for the first pitch. A hard undercling move (FULL extension deadpoint for me) gets you to the bolt before the crux. I tried both ways (straight up and left) and think left is a bit more reasonable for an verage height person. I was nowhere close to reaching the crimp flake straight up (I'm 5'10"). I started up the ramp directly under the crux section instead of starting on the left with the 10+ boulder move traversing up and right. Personally, I think this way is more straight-forward. This pitch is nothing to write home about but the pitches above are pretty cool!
May 14, 2009
First pitch is very hard for the grade. Not what you would expect for a Boulder Canyon 11d. This would be a hard on sight on less you were prepared or told what to expect. After failing first time up trying to move statically thru the crux. I moved left on the finger tip crack and dynoed for the horn with bad feet. Once executed it seemed not bad. Kind of a quick boulder problem move. Seemed hard the first time up but once I did it in retrospect it did not seem too bad. Perhaps that is the reason for the 11d rating. I am not sure what I would rate it for the onsight.
Jun 15, 2005
The crux on P1 seemed hard for the grade, but it also appeared as though there were two ways to do it: going straight up from the finger ledge and then traversing left or traversing left on the finger ledge and chucking for the horn on very bad feet (this seemed pretty hard). Good stone despite the whipping.
Jun 8, 2004
- Monkey's Sister
- Monkey's Uncle
When the bolts lines split, I went up right and then traversed back left under and then over the roof. Felt just solid 5.10 climbing without any 10+ to me. Trying to hug the bolt line straight up seemed a bit contrived. Maybe that is how it becomes 10+. Above the roof felt harder than below for me. Gotta give right until the chains. Either way fun climbing. Either 5.10 variation worth a go.
Oct 5, 2017
Is this route chipped? Some of those edges feel too perfect.
Jul 17, 2013
The climbing is good on these routes. However, I feel that a couple of the bolts could have been placed in better positions, especially for those who are climbing the Monkey's Sister variation at their limit.
Jun 15, 2008
We really enjoyed this climb, the multiple small roofs kept this interesting to the end. One question though, Stephen, how bad were the large flakes at the last roof before they were glued (the middle 10d version I guess from your description)? It seemed to us that if they were pulled out it might have made the climb an 11 or so (but who knows, right?). That was the only drawback for me, seeing all that glue. Just wanted to get your thoughts on why you wanted to save them.
Sep 2, 2002
This route (the straight up variation) is called "Monkey's Uncle" 5.10d. It is located approx. 30' right of "Wanker" (behind tree and boulder). 3 variations exist; going left from 3rd bolt out small roof to thin holds on headwall is "A.C.E." 5.12a . The middle line up small corner and small roof is "Monkey's Uncle" 5.10d . The easy right hand finish is "Monkey's Sister" 5.10b/c . All end at same 3 bolt anchor. FAs of all three routes; Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, summer 2000.
Jul 11, 2002
- Pin Cushion
Really interesting, albeit short pitch. I thought there were 2 definite cruxes, getting past the 2nd bolt and getting past the 3rd bolt. For the crux at the 2nd bolt being tall seemed pretty advantageous. On the flip side, being tall at the 3rd bolt sucked. By the time I rocked over onto the left foot, I already had the shitty, slippery (yet somehow sharp) crimp at my shoulder and didn't have much range to pull it down. Instead, I ended up using a right hand, flake gaston (above the hold that you spend half of the day hanging out and dunking your hand into your chalkbag), and left hand manteling. The fun doesn't stop there though, as the holds are still kind of weird and insecure, and you have to make a few moves to clip the next bolt. For a bolted 11a in Boulder Canyon, this one felt pretty legit.
Sep 1, 2008
I like the bolt spacing. And I am of shorter stature so, the first clip was a bit sporty. Also seeing how far the next bolt was I opted to clip a lone 'biner to the first bolt to save a foot or drop should I blow any of the moves above. I'm also going to have to go with no more than 11b. I don't usually onsight 11c and definitely not 11d!! The pro is adequate but that's it!! No more no less, I thought the movement was great and, although short, it was a pretty exciting pitch!!
Jul 10, 2008
The sportiest way to clip the first bolt is with a stick.
Jun 30, 2008
Good route, maybe middle 5.11 in the right conditions. However... this climb can get downright slick in poor weather- I got totally shut down [slipping] on and off of the crux with raw skin and humidity after having just done a neighboring 5.12 with much less effort.The first clip is sporty to get to, especially for the shorter folks.
Jun 24, 2005
Hi Ray, I bolted Pincushion and the project above. I agree, Pincushion is probably 2/3 letter grades harder than 11a, but it seems every new route in the canyon gets massively down-graded; therefore, we decided to start on the low-end of the scale. I disagree, I think the protection is adequate, and it doesn't detract from the quality of the pitch. BOTH minimal bolt placements AND pitch quality were equally addressed. The project above isn't lavishly over-bolted - it simply appears that way because the first couple bolts are close so the climber doesn't hit the ledge and/or belayer if he/she falls when climbing directly above the belay. Thanks, BTW send me an e-mail, let's get out - we haven't climbed together in about 10 years. Take Care, Dan
Jul 13, 2003
I apologize for the lack of clarity in my earlier posting. I thought that the sarcastic tone was sufficiently established in the first sentence to carry over to the second. So I will be clear. I think that Pincushion is noticibly harder than 11a, and believe that the bolt placements were made with an eye toward minimizing the bolt count, not toward making a good 5.11 route. This might be more understandable, but still quite ironic, in the context of this being an approach pitch to a lavishly bolted project above.
Jul 13, 2003
The grade is about right - if you include a hearty tug on the second and third quick draws, that is. A breath of fresh air for those who are sick and tired of overbolting or soft grading.
Jul 12, 2003
Thanks Bob! The second pitch (in progress) is even better!
Jul 6, 2003
Bob, we used klettershoes, so yes, definitely edging shoes work well.
Jul 1, 2003
- Politician, The
Yo Patrick, feel free to clean said loose rock when on routes like this. Better to pull it out and clean it up than to leave a time bomb for someone else.
Aug 16, 2016
Downgrading it for now as it is a bit dirty. Also there is a good sized (~5#) loose rock near the top...deceiving because it looks absolutely solid. Be careful belaying underneath this route until the conditions improve. FYI - the rock is in about the last ten feet approaching from the right side of the bolt line. It is a small pillar in a small corner that looks attached at the base. Added 7/16 - it was not so loose I could remove it, and there was a bit of a crowd at the base, so I didn't think it was the time to start kicking and punching. When I go back to work, TG, TB, and TJ, I will take care of it if still there.
Aug 16, 2016
Steve - we wondered what was up with that bolt! Cool to know the back story. Were you just top-roping it from the That's Weak anchors? If so, you probably didn't get to do the last 20'. There's some fun moves getting to the anchors!
Aug 3, 2016
Cool to see this finally get bolted. John and I top roped this when we put up That's Weak in 1996 and even pissed on it by installing a bolt at the corner but then moved on to other stuff. The upper pitch looks good too.
Aug 3, 2016
Nice route. A little easier than That's Weak but still probably 10a. A 60-meter definitely works fine.
Aug 1, 2016
- Stage Fright
Pretty great route. Runout to the corner is not trivial but not that difficult either. Like Lisa said, save a #0.4 or 0.5 Camalot for the crux. The crux is over quickly, and 5.11- is a generous grade for this route. 5.10c would be more appropriate.
Aug 30, 2017
Save a #0.5 Camalot to place overhead at the crux. It's initially hard to see, because it's so high and around the corner, but it's bomber. Great pitch.
Aug 7, 2016
Nice job, Brett. I thought that straight up at the top felt tough and definitely insecure. Spent a lot of time looking, groping, and clenching my teeth.
Sep 1, 2008
The other day I led the thrilling left finish (that Joe mentioned above), thinking that was the normal route. It was probably mid-5.11 and kind of spicy, but high quality.
Aug 28, 2008
FA: Mason Frichette and Paul Reid, 1977.
Jul 21, 2007
Great pitch!Nearly 3 stars. Routefinding at the crux is challenging. My belayer, who had done the route before, remembered going left at the crux along the continuation of the crack. This variation looks like it takes gear at first, but then turns into scarey looking slab climbing. When I got up there, traversing into the right crack (as described above) seemed the more logical, and safer, way to go. So after much confusion and hesitation I went that way. The crux takes very good stoppers as well as the #1 sized cam.
Jul 14, 2004
This is an excellant pitch!!! Save the #1 Friend for the crux. I believe Dan Hare was with Mason F. on the F.A.
Oct 2, 2002
I diagonaled directly to the roof, the option you described. I don't know if it's harder than stepping right and going straight up, but it was fairly run-out. In the end, we felt it was sort of silly, though -- better to just follow the easiest ground to the roof, where the real action starts. Great climb, all in all, with the crux near the top, where it should be.
Oct 1, 2002
- That's Weak
Greg, thanks for replacing those bolts. I don't seem to recall placing a Kong hanger, so maybe it was put on later or.... Anyway, thanks for your efforts replacing the hardware in Boulder Canyon and elsewhere. I owe you a beer or 2. Cheers.
Aug 26, 2017
Jeremy Lubkin and I replaced all bolts on That's Weak today. The impetus for replacing was the left hanger at the anchor, which was a Kong aluminum hanger, like the two that broke in a single incident at Index in 2009. I was concerned someone might get to the anchor, clip into that bolt, then go off belay before clipping the second bolt (a fair number of folks do that...especially Europeans) or continue to an upper pitch and have an anchor hanger break in a multi-pitch situation (yikes!). We replaced all bolts in the original holes, and the new bolts are 1/2 x 2.75" stainless Power-Bolts. The anchor has stainless links to the new style Climbtech mussy hooks (wire gate, hardened, anodized dull green). The old bolts were in good shape considering the 21 years they've been there - they all looked pretty good except for the scary aluminum hanger. Rust wasn't too bad. Hardware was provided by the ASCA, please consider a tax-deductible donation at safeclimbing.org
Aug 25, 2017
Thought this was a very nice long sport route with several interesting moves. If you do veer to the obvious looking easier stuff to your right, of course that lessens the grade. Your choice!
May 8, 2011
Agreed, if one follows the bolt line directly, as paralleling the bolt line on the right, this route is harder than 10a, perhaps 5.10 or 5.10c.
Oct 19, 2008
If you follow the bolt line (rather than climb right, then hand traverse back) I think this line is legit 5.10 and features interesting and not at all awkward climbing. It is only marred by the line of easier holds off to the right that sucker you in and make for a much more unfulfilling experience.
Jun 15, 2008
Fun route. Soft for 10a, but sustained at 5.9. Only route that I have done on Vampire, but looked like it was the cleanest of the base routes. Generous clipping stances. Would be good approach pitch for upper stuff. No move harder than 9.
Jul 21, 2003
Solid stone, well protected, with no move harder than 5.9.
Jul 8, 2002
Definitely a much better start to 'The Vampire' or 'Crack of Desperation' than the 5.7 trad start (very loose rock). Not a 3-star route either. Mostly awkward.
May 31, 2002
I don't think that this route deserves the stars, it's mostly just awkward without being interesting. Still, it looks like a much better start for Vampire than the official first pitch.
Oct 24, 2001
A pretty good route, straight forward 10a. Some good climbs start from the top of this pitch. Refer to Rossiter's book. There is a great, sequential 12a (seemed easier than 12a) straight up from the belay and a strenuous 11c to the right.
Jun 25, 2001
- Trash It and Move On
First Ascent: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin - 1996.
May 19, 2010
Good, tough route. Climb edges past bolts up an increasingly difficult vertical to slightly overhanging wall. Crux involves sidepull slopers / flaring crack to the trad section (yellow alien to .75) that doesn't let off much if you're pumped. Continue up the overhanging wall atop the ledge (3 bolts) to the hanging belay instead of bailing out right on easier ground (1 camalot). Hard for the grade in Boulder Canyon.
May 31, 2008
Beware of loose block on right off the ledge near the top.
Oct 2, 2002
- Vampire, The
There is now only one ring pin on pitch 2. Pulled the lower one out after noticing how loose it was when I went to clip it.
Aug 19, 2016
...but then you really wouldn't be doing The Vampire. The 5.7 corner with marginal rock quality is proabably as memorable as the generic 5.10 bolted face.
Aug 15, 2011
Best way to do this route is the 5.10 bolted start (5.7 was not memorable) then climb up the slot, left over the roof and then after clipping a bolt descend down 10 feet to the anchors of (??route name?). Everything after that was dirty.
Aug 14, 2011
P1: I wouldn't recommend the original first pitch. It is super dirty, loose and dangerous. The moves are easy as long as the whole thing doesn't fall apart. We went this way so we could claim the historical tick.... Starting on That's Weak is way better. P2: is pretty fun. Still lots of loose stuff, but better. My favorite hold was the rotten, loose chockstone being held in place by the old ring pin. P3: We were surprised at how easy pitch 3 was, nowhere near as ominous as it looks from the road.... One move off the belay then 4th class-ish. P4: The last pitch up the left-facing dihedral looks disgusting but is pretty fun. The gear is good, so you can take the chance and do a full body stem to avoid the oozing poop. If done right, you don't even have to touch the crack.... Right before you top out, you can step down to a bolt anchor. From here, it is 2 raps to the ground with a 70m. Not sure if a 60m will make it, but there are plenty of other anchors to shoot for it it doesn't.... 1st rap lands you just under the pitch 2 belay @ the anchor for The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked (skipping the anchor on the ramp). And then, from here to the ground....
Jul 7, 2011
Actually kind of a fun route. Has a bit of an alpine flavor to it in terms of the rock itself. (i.e. a bit of moss, looser rock here and there). The first pitch of 5.7 is the worst in terms of quality, so if you would like better rock you can climb That's Weak and arrive at the same anchors. The rest of the climb has some very nice sections and interesting moves. Has a few cruxes so recommend you be solid at the grade. Nice views and a fun adventuresome outing. Solid 5.9.
May 8, 2011
We climbed this route yesterday, and while it's enjoyable, I'm not sure if it merits three stars. That said, I still found the first two pitches to be worthwhile, and if the final pitch hadn't been so shitty (literally full of shit) it would have been great. If I return to this climb, I'll rappel down after the first couple pitches....
Aug 12, 2009
I thought this route was really cool. It was longer than most routes in Boulder Canyon and fairly sustained. I had a great time on it.
Apr 22, 2006
Be sure to do the bolted 'That's Weak'... it's the only clean and decent pitch on the route. Loose, much easier than 5.9 all the way through.
Sep 18, 2005
Dirty. Loose. Historical.
May 23, 2005
Not that great. Summit route. Loose. Many better routes out there. Obscure.
Jul 19, 2003
3 stars probably IS too generous now that I think about it... Like I said, the route has sections of very good climbing, and it goes to the top, but when pitted against true 3 starred classics of the same grade like Green Spur or Yellow Spur, it *does* come up short. Maybe 2 stars, though. It's a unique climb for Boulder Canyon.
Sep 6, 2002
I'm glad the reviewer found a good finish. We couldn't find a good way to finish (one possible option looked too bird-poo coated) and ended up traversing right on some very difficult terrain after the end of the second pitch.
Sep 5, 2002
- Wanker
only did first pitch, based on the bob d book. i had thought the 2nd pitch was the other route. first pitch felt around 11d, but it was pretty hot and humid, which resulted in some frantic prom night groping. really good pitch and nicely protected, although clipping that one bolt is kind of tough. one thing that would improve the first pitch is moving the 5th (i think?) bolt a bit to the left so that the rope isn't trying to get behind your ankle during the sloper slapping.
Jul 18, 2012
If you are shorter than the climber in the video, you may find the crux a little more complicated. Have fun!
Jul 7, 2012
First 1/2 of Wanker; video by Henry Lester. Second 1/2 of Wanker.
Sep 17, 2011
Several bolts added to the first pitch, now eight bolts + two for the anchor, make it well protected. This makes a great pitch on its own, and is 12a IMO. Not chipped, glued, or chained as far as I can tell.
Sep 5, 2011
Nowhere close to 3 stars.I would give 2 stars for the variation which climbs the left line, through the first roof, to the 2nd set of anchors (The Bureau???). The stretch up to the 3rd set of anchors, however, is among the more jingus sections of rock I've climbed in Boulder Canyon. A key block in the roof is attached to the cliff by a vat of glue, and is secured to the cliff, in case it comes off, with a 4-foot chain attached to the last bolt. A few other key loose holds here as well. This section of the route is fully worthy of the coveted cb.com bomb rating. I also felt it was the crux since I onsighted to the 2nd set of chains, but failed in this section (which could possibly, but not likely, be attributed to lack of inspiration instead of increased difficulty). As for the lower pitches to the 1st set of anchors, I agree with the previous comments on the poorly located 4th bolt on the right line. 3 closely spaced bolts on the lower climbing followed by a spicey crux well above the 3rd bolt getting to the 4th bolt. WTF???!!! A stopper or alien may work in the finger slot, but I find it surprising that gear would be required for a route on such a nearly-gridbolted section of cliff.
Jul 11, 2005
see the comments for the corrected route description. "Wanker" goes to the very end of a 60 M rope, through two roofs and three cruxy sections - very fun!
Oct 2, 2002
Sangdahl's clarification above is quite useful. Nate Adams and I did this route (the right hand route, which I now understand to be Wanker) last summer and we both made the fourth clip without being too scared. I will say it would have been a much more comfortable clip if it were a foot lower, but it is not so bad as is. Another error in the guidebook is the rating and the noted location of the crux. Nate and I both thought the first roof was 12b and was definitely the crux. The guidebook shows a 12c crux in the second roof, which is no harder than 12a. It also lists 12c as the overall rating, which I was willing to buy as an overall pump crux sort of thing, but Sangdahl says the rating is 12a/b, which is closer to the actual hardest move. Guidebook corrections aside, this is a steep shady route that really has fun climbing. The 11d section at the 4th clip is tricky and slopey, and the first roof is really puzzling the first time through - it gives you the choice between trying to ooze up a dihedral with holds all going the wrong way, or up a short arete with tiny holds. The second roof isn't so bad, but you get pretty pumped up there.Overall, a very good line - the full 60M route is probably about a dozen clips, and if you do it all the way to the top, it deserves at least 2 stars, maybe 3.
Jul 11, 2002
Just to clarify; the route known as "the Bureau" and "Wanker"(not "the" wanker)are switched around in the sport guide book. the route listed above is "Wanker". "the Bureau" is actually the left hand route with a chain on the 2nd bolt. "Wanker" 5.12a/b is the next line to the right and goes all the way thru both the 4'roof and the 7'roof in one long pitch(back clean where appropriate and use long slings to avoid rope drag,60m rope can lower one to ground) This route can also be done in 2 pitches, p1(5.11d)ends below the 4'roof and shares a 2 bolt anchor with the bureau.(the 4th bolt is easy to clip if one heel/toe hooks the left foot in small corner to lock in,the 3rd bolt is just below your feet) p2 is as follows,crank out 1st roof(5.12a/b)climb up and launch out 2nd roof(5.12a)past bolts,fixed wire,and block chained to wall,to a stance above roof at 3 bolt anchor.F.A.;Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, with Chip Ruckgrabber assisting on "wanker" summer 1999 Also from the shared anchors on bureau and wanker one can traverse 40' to the right to the anchors on "Monkeys Uncle".This is called "Nothin but trouble traverse"5.10b .one can also top-rope the hard roof below the 2nd bolt of this traverse, this is known as "More trouble than its worth"5.12b/c. f.a.of both by sangdahl and baldwin ,summer 2000.hope the beta helps.
Jul 11, 2002
- Wall of Voodoo, The
- Porch Monkey
Nope. Let's all chill out, bruh.
Sep 11, 2015
Is anyone else disappointed and shocked that this route's name is terribly racist and offensive?! I expect more of Colorado climbers.
Sep 10, 2015
This felt 12b/c to me as well. It's listed as this in both guidebooks. When you compare this route to the other route a 12a/b in the guide, this route is significantly harder. Also I don't think Dan climbed this, what rests are you talking about and what crack do you grab, doesn't sound like the same route to me. It sounds like the route down the hill that starts on a ledge.
Oct 31, 2013
It seems as if Boulder climbers are insecure with grades. Porch Monkey would hold the 12b/c grade in Rifle (which is a warm-up there if you were not aware), so if climbing at this grade is a big deal to you then live it up, and yes you will be able to climb practically every 12b in Rifle if you can climb Porch Monkey (have fun waiting in line with all the other dolts!).
Oct 17, 2005
Porch Monkey is actually 15 to 20 feet right of Voodoo Child. steve s.
Jun 30, 2002
I agree. This route is 12a/b and really fun. The first three clips are a jug haul to a small roof. Then you move left and reach up for this crack (this is the part that I felt was the crux) , rock up on the lip and you're in a great position to rest. Then you crank through a couple more moves and out to your left is this killer hold that if you get it right, you get another massive rest. The rest of the climbing is straightforward and fun. I think this route definitely gets 3 stars.
Jun 18, 2002
- Sufferin' Succotash
Willie, the 5.11d rating for Voodoo Child is "old school" i.e. sand-bag It probably is 5.12a. Glad you enjoyed the routes.
Aug 26, 2002
Thanks, Steve, for the correction. I was going off Rolofson's guide, and I believe the routes are switched. Not only are the names wrong, but the ratings seem switched too. At the time I climbed these it didn't matter, because we didn't have a guidebook. I only referenced the guide before submitting the rock and the routes to this site. Anyhow, the far left route seems 5.11- until the ending (5.12b/c?) move. I didn't get it, and therefore I didn't write it up. Perhaps I'm missing something. The middle route sounds correct at about 5.12a, and the rightmost seemed 11d or 12a. Whatever the names and ratings, these are all good sport routes.
Aug 26, 2002
These must of got switched around in the guidebook. Voodoo Child is the route on the left, 5.11d; Porch Monkey is the middle line of bolts out a roof to start, 5.12a; Sufferin' Succatash is the right hand route up a corner, 5.11? Steve Sangdahl.
Jun 30, 2002
- Voodoo Child
- Watermark, The
- Dark Tower
A set of tri cams will help immensely with this route in my opinion. Still dirty. I think it would clean up into something if more people got on it. No ants on top.
Aug 1, 2012
No ants as of July 2006, but still not worth hauling a rack up to the crag for. The climbing was easy, but I thought the pro was less than great. The line looks better than it is.
Aug 7, 2006
Pesky ants.
Jun 3, 2002
I soloed the route yesterday and here's my take on it: The rock is kinda junky and dirty and the ants are still there. I crumbed a hold or two each way, up and down. There was dirt in the cracks besides. I'd have given it the bomb.
Jun 3, 2002
- Glennevere
I would say that the rock on this climb is pretty junky. There seemed to be plenty of jug holds after the overhang that I skipped in fear of the rock breaking off. The roof section was fun. After the roof was meh.
May 4, 2013
Depends on how you do this one. If you don't do the small dihedral with roof, it's a 6-7.
Nov 6, 2012
I pulled the loose rock off the climb yesterday that was marked with the chalked X. It seemed pointless to mark a loose rock that was easily pulled out by wiggling it for 30 seconds or so. Hopefully this will be more helpful to future climbers of this climb.
Sep 2, 2012
Basically one long boulder problem. Really fragmented in its flow, but wouldn't hurt to climb it.
Jul 19, 2012
Must have cleaned up a bit with age. Definitely steeper and more fun than Road to Isengard in my opinion.
Jul 25, 2010
I was surprised to see this climb stopped before pulling through the cracks at the top. I would like to go back and try this one again and top-out.
May 31, 2008
I thought the route wasn't too bad for the crag - the upper section above the small roof was definitely better. It felt harder than the other 5.8s at the crag - probably due to the steeper nature of the face. We scrambled up to a shelf running below Glennevere, Twin Peaks, and Dark Tower to belay from.
Aug 7, 2006
Spooky rock. Per RR: "Glennevere", 5.8.
Sep 2, 2002
I climbed it yesterday without knowing anything about it. I rated it 5.7, and my climbing partner called it 5.8. I thought it made for a good warm up and was worth doing.
Jul 17, 2002
I agree with the comments expressed. I did it yesterday with no knowledge of the climb other than that I saw the line. I guessed 5.9 and thought it was pretty junky. I'd put it in the "don't bother" category. I'd have given it the bomb.
Jun 3, 2002
- Lothlorien
Dale Haas and I took a wrench up on this climb today to address the loose 3rd bolt. It turns out that the bolt is fine. It is a 1/2" Powers "5-piece" bolt that is properly tightened. The hanger does move a bit, but that is not a safety issue, IMHO.
Sep 21, 2017
Bolt #3 was loose, able to spin!
Sep 10, 2017
Fun route with very positive holds all the way up. Bolting is great, if you're a solid 5.7 leader, you'll be fine.
Jun 3, 2013
Say, this is a solid 7.
Nov 6, 2012
As a fairly new leader, I felt the bolt spacing was well thought out. This is not a 5.6/5.7 gym climb. The bolts are run out for the grade and in all reality that is what bumps this from a 6 to a 7. A nice climb in a nice area. Don't go on weekends like we did; it felt like a gym.
Jun 24, 2012
I agree with Apgar. Pretty cool slab at the grade, and very consistent. Being pretty short it offered me a couple of cool chances to make dynamic reaches (extra fun considering I was soloing).
Jul 17, 2010
I'm not sure why this route doesn't have a higher star average. I'm not sure what more you could ask for from a slab route at the 5.7 grade. The rock is super clean and solid; the climbing is consistent throughout. It's certainly worth coming to the watermark just to get on this one route. Cheers, BA
Mar 21, 2009
I think this one could be traditionally protected with some lightweight runouts.
May 31, 2008
Maybe it is because it is a sport climb, but if the 1st pitch of the First Flatiron Direct route is 5.6 and Frictionary at Sport Park is 5.7, then there is no way this is any harder than 5.6.
Aug 24, 2006
Perhaps, 5.7 with a little run out.
Jun 18, 2006
No way!!! this can be 5.8, maybe 5.7
Mar 28, 2004
The route is relatively nice and clean, and all the holds are positive. No need for any smearing on this slab.
Oct 19, 2003
Now the route sports *five* bolts and a two bolt anchor. It is good fun, but I wouldn't call it a great beginner route. It is a low-angle and very positive, but the five bolts protect a 25m pitch - you do the math... I suspect that most gym-bred beginners will not be happy with the potential tumbling falls. A competent Eldo 5.8 leader, no problem.
Jun 3, 2002
Two new bolts at the top of the slab replace the tree anchors for an even better time. A very fun climb with nicely spaced bolts. Michael Walker
Jul 20, 2001
- Memory of Trees, The
Best route at the crag I'd say. Wouldn't recommend coming to Watermark just for this one, but if you're around there go ahead and do it, it's fun.
Jun 12, 2012
Fun route. As of 10-13-11 a lot of the bolt hangers were spinners, though the anchor bolts seemed OK. Might want to bring a wrench.
Oct 13, 2011
Nice route, but a bit of a one move wonder.
May 31, 2008
One of the nicest 9s in the canyon. Worth a trip to Watermark for this and Twin Peaks. Sometimes crowded on summer days. Needs almost all of a 60m rope.
Apr 24, 2008
Best route of the area. Couple of fun roofs and some nice exposure if you stick with arete. The anchor is quite far right. If you top rope it, you will probably want to leave a quick draw in the bolt above the first roof. A fall there would otherwise probably swing you into the rock to your right. 5.9.
Jun 18, 2006
[The] unknown climber on [Ron Olsen's] picture from [August] 27 is none other than Brent Pohlmann, who has the distinction of swimming from Alcatraz Island to San Francisco WITHOUT a wetsuit more times than anyone else in Boulder......13 to be exact, including 3 roundtrips and 2 on New Year's Day.
Aug 28, 2005
Three stars narrowly averted for a [Boulder Canyon] moderate sport route.
Aug 25, 2004
As of 6/5/02 this route has nine bolts, though only six are easily visible from the ground. Two long draws for the bolts below the roofs will prevent rope drag at the top.
Jun 6, 2002
This is actually a pretty good route, and makes the crag worth visiting. The first roof is certainly easier on the left, and the second one goes elegantly straight up or more easily on the right.
Jun 3, 2002
Two bolt anchor at the top eliminates need for tree anchors (perhaps now it is aptly named?). Also, more bolts made this a fine lead without gear. Much like Lothlorien, with roomy placements (a fifth bolt before the anchors on that one too!). Finally, another bolt route on the right shares same anchor with Memory. Michael Walker
Jul 27, 2001
- Minas Tireth
Meh, 1 or 2 hard moves, and the rest is way easier. Overall okay route.
Jun 3, 2013
Fun route, but it really seemed to be a one (2?) move wonder. The roof is sequency and challenging, if you use the holds on the left face. I thought it was 10a, unfortunately, the rest of the climb is an easy 8 or less.
Aug 11, 2012
Beware of loose rock. A couple climbing this last night went a little further right than the route was intended and pulled down a pretty decent chunk of granite. Scared the @#$! out of me, but nobody was hurt.
Aug 27, 2010
Crux is very well protected. Try the toe hook under the ledge to move into the crux move. Although it wasn't a tall climb, it was definitely a fun one.
May 15, 2009
Sort and suite. Very sequency at the crux.
May 31, 2008
Actually a fun little climb. And for what it is worth, I found the route probably also goes around 5.10a by staying on the left arete and up over the overhang.
Jul 20, 2007
This route is "Minas TirEth" 10a on Richard Rossiter's website: boulderclimbs.com/watermark…
Aug 27, 2005
The crux is moving right onto the slab under the roof; turning the roof past the final bolt is much easier. Beta: there's a good hold on the left edge of the roof; you just have to work high enough to reach it. When you lower, leave the last bolt below the roof clipped if your partner is top-roping. This will keep the rope from running across a sharp edge on the roof should your partner fall at the crux.
Jul 13, 2004
The interesting move over the roof merits a star.
Jul 4, 2004
I climbed this last week and to me it felt a lot easier than 10c, maybe 10a.
Apr 3, 2004
- Road to Isengard
I loved this route personally. It's well protected and fun the whole way up. Follow the bolts for a line that is more fun.
May 22, 2014
This was my first lead. And for that, it was good, because the climbing is pretty easy all the way. If you're an experienced leader, not worth it, but if you're bringing a new leader, maybe take them here. Overall an ok climb, nothing spectacular.
Jun 12, 2012
Very easy and very enjoyable. Lots of fun.
Oct 4, 2011
I found this pretty easy, but the moves were less than obvious to the infrequent climbers I was with. I fired straight up, but they tried to wander. Only worth a repeat if I had to hang a top rope for new climbers.
Aug 2, 2010
We all thought this route was a lot of fun. Easy climbing on big holds leads to some decent exposure and a quick crux on the upper section. There is definitely no need to climb in the grungy corner. Step left onto the face - way better that way.
Jul 31, 2010
I agree with Ron Olsen's assessment. Follow the bolt line for thoughtful footwork and moves (for the grade). Fun climb, especially after the first bolt or two.
Aug 22, 2007
I was finally able to climb this route today. (I wasn't the one who added the route to the database.) Probably about on par with Lothlorien in terms of difficulty, but a few more bolts and a little longer.
Oct 19, 2003
Per RR: "Road to Isengard ", 5.7. Crappy down low, but quite good second half.
Sep 2, 2002
The starting moves can be done directly up the face to the first bolt without getting into the grungy corner on the right. The upper slab has a spot of 5.8 if you stick to the bolt line; easier variations exist to the left or the right. A fun slab pitch; worth doing as a warm-up for Memory of Trees. Slightly harder than Lothlorien. One star.
Aug 23, 2002
Well, if you don't use your left hand for the first 20', then you can't use your right foot for the rest of the climb, it makes it 5.8. Just kidding. Yeah, the only thing "difficult" about this climb I think I made up in the grungy corner to keep it interesting. Not really worth doing really...
Jul 18, 2002
I led this route yesterday without any previous knowledge of it. I felt it was 5.6 at most, and I pretty much climbed straight up without much regard for finding the easiest path. My climbing partner led the route and felt it was 5.5, but he did traverse some for the easiest path. In either case, we both found it to be an enjoyable route. But use a 60m rope as a 50m rope barely makes it to the ground.
Jul 17, 2002
- Twin Cracks Left
Surprisingly good! Crack is all but invisible from the ground but magically appears once you reach the undercling. Super solid jams and pretty clean rock. Do it!
Jun 3, 2013
Clipping the 3 bolts is not required for this climb. A yellow and blue Metolius as well as a large (3 or 4) sized cam protect the lower section.
May 31, 2008
Longer and more varied than Twin Cracks Right. My partner clipped the bolt below the undercling with a long runner before moving left. Fun moves up the crack and arete. Near the top of the crack, he angled right to the anchor on Twin Peaks and lowered from there. I followed and cleaned the pitch. I think many people will do the climb this way instead of continuing up to the ledge and building a gear anchor.
Oct 2, 2006
- Twin Cracks Right
The entire climb can be safely lead without the bolts. The bottom section is easily protected with a large cam for the starting flake (3 or 4) and a yellow and blue Metolius. The crux is well-protected, even if the moves are a bit awkward.
May 31, 2008
A short but fun crack. I clipped the bolt below the undercling with a long runner before stepping right. Be sure to place directional pro at the top of the crack for your second before moving right to the anchor on Glennevere. It's best for the leader to lower off and have the second follow and clean the pitch, since it would be hard to clean while lowering or rappeling due to the slanting nature of the climb.
Oct 2, 2006
- Twin Peaks
Making the last clip was a little difficult. Go to left as you approach anchors for easiest climbing. Be careful by 1st bolt as there is a large lose block. Overall a fun route. 10a/b.
Oct 4, 2011
One of the better routes at this crag. An aspiring 5.10 leader should hop on this one, as it is an easy tick, and the clips are safe.
May 31, 2008
Actually, the ring anchors are still at the top of Twin Peaks.
Sep 2, 2006
Bummed the anchor was moved, but I am at least glad it was done by the FA crew. The logical route now seems the left line, which removes the route's second crux and perhaps downgrades the route. Perhaps, you just didn't have time, but it seems lame to leave the old bolts. They should be chopped and the holes should be covered if you're going to make the change. Clipping was exciting and fine from the old location.
Aug 20, 2006
Found it quite awkward at the anchor, no good stance! There is a pretty nice crack a few feet to the left of the route for the second half if one wants to take an easier detour.
Jun 27, 2006
Per RR: "Twin Peaks", 10a.
Sep 2, 2002
One more I did yesterday. Leo and I again agree on the grade, as I would have guessed 10b for a modern sport grade. This route was only slightly better than its neighbor. There was a section from about 1/2 way up (starting with the undercling) to about 10' from the top that had some redeeming qualities, but all in all the route was poor. I'd give it 1 star.
Jun 3, 2002
- Witches' Tower
- It's My Swamp
The climb still the same as above^^^^. Lots of loose rocks, the floods may have made it even sketchier. I'm not sure I just know there are loose rocks for days....
May 19, 2014
Not too hard or runout, but certainly an 'adventure climb.' Plenty of lichen and a few loose blocks. The grade on the first pitch seemed about right. No single trip up this thing with a brush will make it clean, but the route would be tremendously improved with a some effort from each of several of the next attempts... take a brush. Also, perhaps 50 or 60 feet up there is a flake/spike to the right that someone's second could push off after verifying that the trail is clear.
Jun 26, 2008
- Nala
I was able to make some sense out of the line tonight and did it, but it felt tight between Tese and Romancing... if someone is on one or the other, this one is too close to climb comfortably. The route can certainly be done without the bolt, as an Alien goes in just before the roof crux, but at and above the roof you do a few moves that are not super-well-protected.
Jun 26, 2008
Was this climb retro-bolted? I climbed a route to the left of Tese that seemed to share the same start as Romancing the Stone, but went through the small, tiered roof system and then up the north face of an arete to the top of the buttress. There's a photo topo posted in the Romancing the Stone route with a small bush under the tiered roof system that has been cut out and a bolt was placed above it. Maybe it's just a bolted variation of Romancing the Stone?
Jun 25, 2008
- No Direction Home
It would have been better to easily clip the bolt at the roof from the stance below it, instead of clipping it off of the steep greasy sidepull (I didn't find the hidden jug until afterwards). Felt like an 11c clip with 5.10 climbing.
Jun 14, 2012
It is possible to walk off to the west from the top of this route. As of now, it's quite steep, brushy ,and loose. That said, it's probably just as easy to rap...carefully.
Jul 11, 2011
I agree, really fun. An optimistic attitude will be rewarded. Might be a little height dependent. There's a lowering anchor one more bolt past the crux roof, which I unwittingly used, so can't comment on the upper part. Went back today (9/15/17) and did the upper section. It's worth doing once. You wouldn't miss much if you skipped it.
Jun 14, 2011
Tony B sums it up perfectly. I counted 12 + 2 to the top chains.
Jul 18, 2010
Good climb, missed the undercling under the roof and was happy to get the jugs after matchin' on those little crimps. Still, not harder than 11- unless you completely miss something. It was nice that all the routes went the distance now- it adds some quality and length to them and makes them all the more interesting. The upper arete on this one was fun too.
Jun 24, 2008
Good route! Best I've done at Sherwood. Really fun movement into the roof section.
Jul 30, 2007
Quite good from the ground through the roof.
Jul 28, 2006
- Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad))
Only about 10, maybe 15 feet of interesting climbing on this, and it is really dirty. The main seam feature seeps for long periods after wet weather.
Jun 8, 2014
I trundled the biggest flake I have ever cleaned off a route between the last two bolts. It is not difficult there and originally we stood on the block. But last week I noticed it moved. You can see it laying down by a tree. It is almost 4 feet long. Hence the "Bombs" reference. Give a good spot to clip the first bolt.
Jul 5, 2008
- Pumpkin Eater
- Romancing the Stone
This is a damn near classic route. There is a little bit of hollow rock here and there but nothing that's going to come off in a catastrophic way. I kept climbing past the anchors into the neighboring 10-, and this creates a really good mini-extension to an already awesome moderate. Doing the pitch this way, the route is exactly 30m. Tie knots in the end of the rope! All that's really necessary in terms of gear is a finger-sized cam for after the 2nd bolt and a long draw on the anchor of this route to climb up to the anchor of the 10- without rope drag.
Jul 22, 2016
I did this route yesterday with no gear. I didn't feel it needed it. Perhaps a tad run out but nothing compared to what you can find in RMNP. A groundfall from the third bolt seems only probable with a bad belay. I had a lot of fun climbing this, and got down with a smile on my face. Interesting/fun movement for the grade. Tread lightly. There are some large flakes that if pulled off could be potentially fatal even with a helmet. Belay should back off the wall after the 3rd bolt.
Jun 20, 2016
The bolting on this route needs some work. A fall going to the chains would be nasty. I really think adding some bolts to this rig would be the right decision.
Jun 17, 2013
I did not notice any loose rock.
May 23, 2013
Great climb, no need for gear but HOLY SHIT! Loose rock! Be very careful climbing this one. I pulled one baseball-sized piece with chalk on it and felt many a large flake move under body weight. Put your belay far right and wear a helmet!
Sep 18, 2012
Great route. I found the route to be clean with no loose rock so get on it! It's just fine without any gear if you are solid on the grade. Use a couple long slings to reduce rope drag. Also, there are two 3rd bolts - not sure why. We clipped the left one.
Jul 18, 2012
I'd agree with those posting about loose stuff, mainly large and some small flakes. Because of the comments, I was doing the hollow punch test, and there was a lot that didn't sound good at all. Unfortunately, this really takes a lot away from an otherwise fun warm-up route. I am sure that in the next few years if not sooner, this route will change drastically due to large blocks and flakes coming off. Be aware of what you are pulling and stepping on while on this route!
Apr 25, 2012
The climb to the right is much better without the loose blocks.
Jul 28, 2011
Matt - I'd have to disagree. I had a blast on it! Really fun, and pretty safe, especially if you place the supplementary gear. Sure, there's some loose rock, but that's all part of the outdoor experience, especially on crags facing that aspect. BTW--a helmet won't do a belayer much good if any of those aforementioned blocks go. Just sayin'. Have fun out there!
Jul 11, 2011
This route isn't good at all. The looseness of the rock makes it kind of serious, so make sure your belayer wears a helmet for sure. I tried to avoid the loose sections as best as I could making it probably a bit harder, but if you just tromp around on the flakes, it is probably 5.8. Anyways, super crappy climb. Not recommended at all.
Jul 8, 2011
The above comments about loose rock in 2008 are still very relevant today. I did the route a few hours ago and was quite surprised by all the loose rock. The bolts have a lot of run out (the possibly of a ground fall exists even after bolt 3 and 4), so I placed some protection and witnessed a huge flake expand with just a light tug on the cam. Fun, but be careful both when on the rock and when belaying.
Jul 2, 2011
I have to agree with Jeremy. This climb (while a lot of fun) has a lot of missiles hanging, waiting to release. I'm not normally a fan of altering routes, but it would be nice to see some of the more questionable items removed, simply as a safety matter. Fun climbing, though
Jul 21, 2008
A nice route, but it's not 5.9; 5.8 at the most, maybe 5.7. Maybe I'm biased because I've been climbing a lot in Eldo recently. The moves past the hanging flake are indeed cool, but be careful. As Jeremy implies, all things are temporary, and some of those flakes seem to be potentially more temporary than, well, other things. Climb lightly, and tell your belayer to stand off to the side.
Jun 26, 2008
I did this one more 'directly' and did not step left to the Camalot placements, and as such hit some questionable rock. A good route overall though, but I was trying to figure out what was what, as maybe 50' up there were two diverging/converging lines available with bolts to the left/right of each other. Was a little confused on which was the intended line. No less, it was a nice long pitch done to the top anchor and was enjoyable. Thanks for 'finishing' the route.
Jun 24, 2008
The creepy and loose sounding rock on the middle of this route really took a lot away from this route. I'm sure it much more solid than it seemed, but I couldn't shake the feeling that I was going to pull a HUGE piece of rock off every other move. I think it would be a really good route if you weren't a wuss like me and just cranked on everything.
Jun 16, 2008
A good route with varied moves and nice exposure. The layback past the hanging flake and the moves up the arete are fun and airy. I placed a red Alien after the first bolt, a #1 Camalot (or #2 Camalot) after the second bolt, and a #.5 Camalot to protect the final move to the anchor. Romancing the Stone and the neighboring route Tese are must-dos on your way up to Sherwood Forest.
Sep 23, 2005
- Scarecrow
Interesting line at the right of the climbable section of the wall (lichen lurks just to the right). I found some loose rock in the vertical seams in the first 20 ft. Can continue route by using last 5 bolts of "No Direction Home" for added enjoyment.
May 24, 2013
I used a #2 Camalot on this. I placed one nut and 2 other small Camalots as well, a 0.3 and a 0.5.
May 23, 2013
- Teenage Terrorists
Climbed this route in the spring of 2016 and really enjoyed it. A bit dusty and licheny but had some cool moves on small holds.
Dec 21, 2016
The climbing is ok, but unfortunately it is an absolutely filthy pile. If for some reason you are compelled to climb this thing, bring a couple wire brushes, goggles, and a dust mask. I looked like I had been working in a lichen mine after climbing this thing. Also, the bolts could have been a little tighter through the start off of the ledge. Be prepared to 'make contact' with your belayer. (edited to add) i went back up and scrubbed the lower section pretty thorougly which improved the climbing quite a bit. upper section is still really dirty. lower section felt much easier this time, but the upper section still felt a little dicey.
Jun 8, 2014
- Tese
As of late September 2015, the first bolt is somewhat bent and very loose-- likely should be replaced.
Oct 12, 2015
Very nice route. Bring a couple slings to reduce rope drag. Don't need any gear if you are solid on the grade.
Jul 18, 2012
Definitely one of the best 10s in the canyon. Awesome climbing and a nice extension. I found myself smiling every time I put a hand somewhere on the rock where I thought a hold would be, it was there pleasantly. Getting to the first bolt can be one crux depending on how you do it, and the second is the roof. Once that's done, it drops down to very pleasant 5.8 climbing. Do it!
Apr 26, 2012
Holy crap was this one was fun. Couldn't wipe the smile off my face afterwards.
Aug 27, 2011
After getting past the first slabby part (crux), the route changes into this cool, chunky roof followed by a beautifully exposed arete. Amazing, sustained climb.
Aug 26, 2011
Possibly the best 10a sport route in the canyon, I can't think of any better ones off hand. From the moment you leave the ground until you clip the anchors, the climbing is good and fun. The rock is really cool and has a lot of different and interesting features. Be really careful as a 60m just barely gets you back to the ground.
Aug 24, 2011
Nice line with interesting climbing.
Jul 28, 2011
This route is full of fun moves with really excellent climbing all the way to the top. I personally found the committing move just before the third bolt to be too disconcerting to attempt without the added pro; my partner, however, did not have a problem relying solely on the bolts.
Sep 26, 2010
Ken, thanks for the reminder. I meant to make that note when we put in Scarecrow, we removed the intermediate anchor. I will change my comment above.
Aug 5, 2008
Greg Hand wrote: "We have left the 2-bolt anchor at the half way point for climbers with shorter ropes." The midway anchor is no longer there. One of the bolts has been cut and the other bolt has only a hangar on it now. One can traverse to No Direction Home if you have a short rope, but going to the top provides very fun climbing.
Aug 5, 2008
Great route! The extension makes this climb a great pitch - thanks to the FAs. The lower section (overhangs) has a few spots of interesting rock, though. I remember tapping a hand-hold and feeling my feet reverberate... (just after finishing the overhang).
Jul 21, 2008
What a great climb. With the new extension, there are four sections: a thin slabby part followed by a blocky roof section, then a fun arete and finally a relaxed corner at the top. Agree with Bob that this is one of the best 10s in the canyon. Thanks Greg and Bob for extending it! (Note that you need 11 draws plus anchors... skipped the alien myself, and seemed fine.)
Jul 13, 2008
I did the extension today and thought it made the climb much more classic and enjoyable. Thanks for the work guys.
Jun 26, 2008
Really good route. I thought the crux was right off the ground. The extension portion really has a lot of lichen still.
Jun 16, 2008
Tese has been extended to 100 feet. Now you need 11 draws to a 2-bolt anchor. A 60 meter rope gets you down. Tie a knot to be sure. The second half is easier than the first and has fun climbing on the arete. There is no longer an anchor at the half way point. If you have a 50 meter rope, you may need to go to the anchor on No Direction Home or Scarecrow to the right.
Jun 10, 2008
Heady bottom section for a 10. nice and balancy. Did without the added pro with no problem. I would call this 10c to be consistent with the area not 10-. Definitely worth doing.
Jul 23, 2007
Short & a tad forced, but pretty cool nonetheless!
Sep 28, 2005
A high-quality short line climbs an interesting feature. Kudos to Bob and his team for this fine effort.
Sep 28, 2005
An excellent, sustained route with varied moves. If you're headed to Sherwood Forest, stop here first and do this route!
Sep 23, 2005
- Tipskin Jihad
Went back and reclimbed this 9 years after the FA. You can go straight up the bolts using very thin double-gastons at probably 5.12c. Or stay slightly right of center, taking the right-gaston holds with your left hand, at around 12b. Either way the bolts are totally clippable and all options are "on." Still need to get back and remove the old spinner up high. Maybe someday....
Jun 29, 2017
Straight up the bolt line is hard. Brutal fingertip abuse. Not lame. Felt stout for 12b. Harder than the 12b to the right.
Jun 19, 2017
Slim, we climbed it today straight through the bolt line, and it felt right at the grade and pretty fun. I wouldn't say it's a lame route, because it's dirty if you go off route.
Jun 5, 2016
Kind of a lame route. Climbing straight up the bolt line is way hard. On my second attempt with weather rolling in, I eeked out right and felt kind of dirty. According to the guidebook, this is the way to go, but it would have been nice if the bolts followed the climbing better.
Jun 8, 2014
The climbing through the first three bolts is very continuous and a very hard onsight. It helps to have the belayer stay close to the wall, b/c otherwise the leader swings into the rope.
May 30, 2012
- War is Love
The routes on this little section tend to seep for quite a while after wet weather, and that wet fluffy lichen is super slippery.
Jun 29, 2015
I thought the movement was good, but the rock didn't feel that nice. Also, I have done it after it rained earlier in the day. The rock looked dry, but I had a hard time with wet lichen at the 3rd or 4th bolt. The rubber did not want to stick to the rock.
Jun 28, 2015
I thought this was a pretty good route but was a little confused between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Does the line continue straight up, or angle left to share a few moves with Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad))? I tried going straight up but couldn't find a way past the blank spot that felt 11 b/c. Angling left seemed reasonable for the grade but seemed a bit off line. As Slim said, be careful with the clips. The business is right off the ground on this route. I think blowing the 2nd clip could put you on the starting block as well. You clip from a decent hold, but I recall it feeling tenuous - possibly bad feet?
Jun 23, 2015
Calling this one of the best pitches of the grade in the canyon is pretty silly. There is about 10 feet of climbing on it, then a bunch of meandering up easy dirty/lichen climbing. The protection isn't well thought out either. The 3rd bolt should be lower so you can sneak a quick clip off the lower gaston. In it its current location, the stance is still bad, and if you blow the clip you will probably crater on the starting block. I don't think I would recommend it to somebody breaking into the grade.
Aug 13, 2012
Found the route to be a little dirty with lichen. As someone said above, the four routes on this wall are very close together - bolt lines are about 5-6 feet apart.
Jul 18, 2012
I thought the sequence was fun and devious. Lichen didn't bother me. This wall is a good addition to the canyon with crimpy, sharp, powerful moves.
Apr 24, 2012
Disagree. Licheny and disturbingly close to the other routes. Not bad, just not that good either.
Jun 21, 2010
Made the not-so-clever decision of top-roping this route from the anchors on Romancing the Stone, located high on the arete formed by the N and W faces. It seemed like it would be the easiest way to top rope this and the other two routes on the N face by simply moving a directional runner each time (the RTS anchors are directly above Teenage Terrorists). But there is a lot of loose, funky rock between the top of these north face routes and the anchors on RTS. Our rope dislodged a good-sized block that exploded between my partner and myself. Suggest if you want to top-rope here, use the actual route anchors instead. Btw, War is Love has some really good moves on positive holds.
Jun 27, 2008
Surprisingly good -- better than almost every climb at Sherwood Forest -- but by no means a classic. Needs brushing. Be prepared to stick clip the first bolt.
Jul 28, 2006
- Wisk, The
- Witch Hunt
- Wizard Rock
- Christal Ball
At the crux, reaching around to the left seemed like the best move to make. The crux is about a body length in distance.
Jul 17, 2013
Fun, high quality route.
Sep 24, 2011
The best route we had time to do, sadly got rained on before trying the 5.10 route. Harder than the Way of the Wizard, with prettier moves. The lack of chalked holds typical for Boulder Canyon sport climbs made the crux interesting, but it's quick! Wizard Rock is a cool place to go for moderate, well-protected lines.
Aug 10, 2004
Another nice line. This route is about 20' left of Magic Wand, and has three small blocky overhangs just right of the climbing line (see photo). The crux is a steep headwall at the 4th and 5th bolts. The route is about 65' long. One correction: the name of the route is "Christal Ball".
Oct 7, 2003
- Crack
- Driven Like the Snow
I did not see any loose blocks on this. You can clip the first two bolts on Snow Crash at the bottom where there is not much gear.
Jul 9, 2013
Climbed this excellent choss pile on 8/8/07. Accurate description of runout start...pretty mossy slab start but not too scary. Be on lookout for loose blocks. Fun crux section, reasonably good gear. Climbing is not too difficult..the real crux is making sure you don't peel blocks off this route. Nice new route...you get the alpine experience without the altitude!
Aug 18, 2007
- Magic Wand
This is a fun route, but I did not find a 5.8 move. I think it is a 5.7.
Jul 5, 2013
Another fun route.
Sep 24, 2011
Fun route, great views from the top and well bolted for the 5.8 leader.
Jul 15, 2010
Fun, but I could not find the 5.8 move on this one.
Jul 3, 2009
I felt this line went at about 5.6+ (felt easier than say, Calypso), and this is staying within 12 inches of the bolts to the left or right. I guess you could make it harder, but there is a fairly easy path of least resistance in line with the bolts. It is very well bolted, and would be a great, early lead for a beginning climber.
Aug 10, 2004
A fun route. It can be identified by a small pine tree growing out of the rock about 50' up, just right of the climbing line. One correction: there are 9 bolts on the route; not 6. The route description on Richard Rossiter's website (www.boulderclimbs.com) also has this error.
Oct 7, 2003
- Right Arete
There is lots of loose rock on this route, but it is avoidable. Tony is correct, you get good pictures from the bolted belay.
Jul 18, 2013
Tony, The side of Wizard Rock with Christal Ball, Magic Wand, Snow Crash, etc. faces west, not north. Boulder Canyon runs north-south from Bell Buttress to Vampire Rock, as shown in this photo: Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock. The crags on the east side of the creek, including Solaris, Wizard Rock, Avalon, and The Watermark, are predominantly west facing. I think Right Arete climbs the prominent, narrow rib of rock right of Snow Crash, at the junction of the west and south faces, as shown in this photo: Wizard Rock. The four bolted sport routes are shown in the photo, which was taken from the summit of Avalon.
Sep 5, 2007
"Where is this route in relation to Richard Rossiter's Right Arete?" Good question. Rossiter says: "Right Arete 6 FA: Richard Rossiter, solo, 2001. Scramble up and around to the west side of the crag. Follow a norrow rib to the top. Walk off." I would not have described the climb as being on the West Side, but maybe he would have. Perhaps more elaboration on the matter? Richard? Are these indeed the same?
Sep 5, 2007
Where is this route in relation to Richard Rossiter's Right Arete? See boulderclimbs.com/wizard.html.
Sep 5, 2007
Beautiful views of Boulder Canyon at the top. Loose blocks are easy to find, be extra careful. Fun climbing, used three smaller tri-cams, handful of nuts, a couple small hexes, and 0.5 - #2 Camalot. Dislodged one softball-sized, portable foothold that meteored to the ground. Belayer is advised to stay well out of rockfall for this route. Rating felt accurate. Plenty of lichen and choss to be had for the connoisseur.
Aug 17, 2007
- Ruff
This route is fun but contains a lot of loose rock. The crack on the right side of the roof provides some hand jams, but it is not perfect hands.
Jul 18, 2013
Is this route the small (12 inch) roof to the left, or the larger (4 ft) roof that forms the corner of the arete of Snow Crash? I'd say the larger roof goes at 10a or so. Has it been done previously?
Jul 3, 2009
- Snow Crash
Probably the only worth-while climb at this crag. I think 10- is a very generous grade. Probably easier if you are taller.
Jul 3, 2009
Fun climb. Mostly 5.9ish up a narrow arrete until a mid-10 thoughtful sequence between the fifth and sixth bolts. Worth the stroll over if you're at the third tier of Avalon.
May 17, 2008
Crux can also be done to the right. Regardless, this is the best sport climb at the rock and is pretty worthwhile.
May 21, 2007
An airy climb with a steep crux at the 5th bolt. The crux can be done several ways; stepping left or going straight up. Both seem to be about the same difficulty. The climb is about 80' long. The leader can also belay from a good ledge at the top instead of lowering.
Oct 7, 2003
- Two in the Bush
The crux moves at the bottom are not very protectable, but the rest of the route has good gear. It is best as a top rope.
Jul 9, 2013
Richard Rossiter has done a climb called "Way of the Lizard" that is 15 feet left of "Way of the Wizard"; see boulderclimbs.com/wizard.html Is Two in the Bush a distinct line that is different from Way of the Lizard?
Sep 5, 2007
- Uncertain Fates
- Wave Yer Wand
I think this route has good gear. I only used cams, no nuts, and no section felt run-out.
Jul 5, 2013
Lead this pitch today. Thought middle section below dead tree was runout but could be I just didn't look enough for pro. Still, a fun moderate line. Very convenient trad line with the top anchors from Magic Wand. Good gear and cool route.
Aug 18, 2007
- Way of the Wizard
This certainly is not 5.9. It has a 5.8 move but, only one.
Jul 9, 2013
Nice climbing, very similar to the route on Avalon, Incline Club. This felt fairly easy for for 5.9 though, I thought maybe one 5.8 move.
Aug 10, 2004
- Wide Jadodat
- Wizard Shuffle
The big flake mentioned in the description is still there. It is easy to avoid touching it while climbing the route.
Jul 9, 2013
- Zoo, The
- Living with the Apes
I have climbed this route several times since 2000, when I first documented it in the first edition of Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide. The climb is not an easy .12a, & I usually do it on my second try after hanging the draws. I think it may have gotten a little harder at the crux past the 5th bolt, since part of a hold on the right side of the arête has broken off. I would compare it in difficulty to Kudjo Tranquilizer, that I originally rated .12a but is now rated .12b. The two cruxes on Kudjo are hard but come after perfect ledge rests. Living with The Apes is more sustained from the 2nd bolt past the 6th bolt. Then there is a good rest before the slab finish. At the 2nd bolt, strenuous lieback moves lead out left on a flake to face moves ending at a good hold below a small overlap. A technical, vertical face follows with an exciting clip to 5th bolt. Then the real crux, involving a small hold on the arete & side pull/ undercling on the face to get the feet up & reach. I place a red Alien to reach the very high 1st bolt. After 15 years, this climb could still use some wire brushing between 2nd & 3rd bolts. In spite of lichen, the movement on this climb is so good I have enjoyed repeating over the years. There are 10 bolts.
Sep 29, 2015
While not essential, some may find a 1" to 2" cam below the first bolt to be helpful. Nice climbing with no raptor issues that I noticed, at least in the fall.
Nov 7, 2004
I was here last Thu for the first time. There is a large nest about 40 ft up the cliff. I'm certainly no expert, but there was a good-sized raptor that flew away when I was within 50 ft of the base of the Zoo (coming from Animal World). We bailed. The routes are within feet of the nest so I suggest staying away. Anyone else been there this season?
Jun 4, 2003
- Monkey Wrench, The
- Primate Studies
Hard for the grade. I have always thought this climb was 5.11+, & I would give it a PG-13 rating. There is a 20 foot runout between the 6th & 7th bolt on juggy, moderate terrain. However, you must get your feet up & stretch up to reach the 7th bolt. Thankfully there is a nice, incut jug. Perhaps more concerning is location of the 3rd bolt, out right of the cracks you are climbing. The moves get hard here & involves a vertical, thin crack for the right hand & a diagonal crack for the left. The left crack begins with a hand jam but then turns into rounded sidepulls. A fall here (even though not far) would be a swing down & sideways, where you could easily hit the corner & arete below or the rope. With draws in place, you can hang a long sling or a long draw & medium draw off the 4th bolt. This will allow you to clip from lower & then clip again to the upper draw. The actual crux is past the 4th bolt, & it is well-protected. This climb has cool moves & interesting climbing. Primate Studies & Living With The Apes both share the last 2 bolts & anchor.
Jul 16, 2017
City of Boulder- Best Buy
- CU Campus
- CU General Campus
- Discovery Learning Center
- Transport Theorem
One of the most inspiring climbs I've ever been on. Not quite sure what kind of rock it is... some kind of conglomerate. Friction is amazing. Run laps on this in between class.
Jun 17, 2016
- Engineering Center
- Crimp Master
- Dihedral
Cool thanks for the info, BC!
Oct 13, 2014
While I do not know who did the first ascent, I do know many people in the mid '70s climbed this corner on a regular basis for training -- myself included. We rated it around 5.11-, because there were climbs in Eldo that felt similar to the corner.
Oct 6, 2014
- Door Dyno
where on the engineering building is this problem?
Nov 13, 2004
Did this one back in the late 80s. There used to be a side-pull half way up the top panel above the left side of the door. Is it still there?
Jan 1, 2001
- Dyno One
- Dyno Traverse
- Elevator, The
While your at it, make sure to sneeze in between "left hand moves" 2 and 4, and hook your shorts on "right hand move" 3. Anybody ever think of putting up any "teeth only" moves here.
Jul 24, 2003
- Four Corners
- Hand Traverse
- High Exposure
Does this still exist? What side of the building is it on?
Jul 7, 2014
I heard this was originally called "Two Broken Ankles" from an older Boulder climber...
May 25, 2004
This route can be done without going entirely up onto the wall above but rather as a hand traverse with feet on the cement. Probably first done by Jim Collins in the late 1970's.
May 27, 2003
This follows a "natural" line with highball moves and some cool campusing. The best thing found at the engineering center.
May 26, 2001
- Juvenile Delinquency
Getting off of the roof would be tricky, but if you would rather not wait for the janitors (as nice as they are) then you might want to walk across the roof to the north side where the roof is shortest. If you're gutsy enough, and brought enough pads, then have someone else stack 'em in the grass on that side and jump.
Aug 26, 2008
dude, this route is awesome. anyone that flashes this route must be a stud, eh stephen? haha. actually, finding this route takes skill. good times. how about getting down? i climbed this and couldn't figure out how to get down. i was stuck up on the roof all weekend until the janitors got me down the following monday. any tips? i'm always doing that- climbing up stuff and then getting stuck. you know me.
Sep 27, 2002
This route isn't quite V4. It depends on your route finding, but I think V2 or so would be more appropriate.
Aug 18, 2002
This is a really great climb. Definitely a rewarding view from the top. It was harder than the rating, but it was rewarding once I got to the top. Whoever found this route is amazing!
Nov 21, 2001
Fun route, though short and doesn't require endurance. I'm not sure about the rating, but its the trickiest problem I've ever done and took about a dozen attempts. Be discrete when climbing on the building.
Sep 19, 2001
this is actually a really cool climb. It is fun cause you have to think about the route and the police
Sep 18, 2001
- Lorin's Reach
- North Crack
- North Door
- North Wall
- Number Cruncher
I second that (above): Where is it? Knowing the engineering center, a V8 might not be an obvious line....
Mar 31, 2011
Could give a location for this problem?
Oct 27, 2003
This is solid 5.13, which should put it are v8 or higher depending on the thickness of your fingers. I guess the only attraction to this problem is its difficulty and location, but definately worth trying.
Jul 24, 2002
You're calling this a V2?? Ive seen V5s that are easier than this thing. Maybe its just me, but I think V2 is a sandbagged grade.
Jan 1, 2001
We haven't seen anyone do this sick traverse so really we should have a ? grade for it. I agree, its probably way harder than V5.
Jan 1, 2001
It's a 5.13 traverse!
Jan 1, 2001
- Plummer's Crack
Going up the crack and getting fist jams in the roof crack is pretty easy. I have heard first hand of 1 climber climbing the roof crack. Prod.
Dec 26, 2011
If you like hurty horiaontal hand cracks this was designed for you. The goal is to traverse up an across then back. probably harder than v0. I'v seen only one person do this great problem!
Jun 22, 2001
- South Traverse
try using the window sill and reach out to the lip the pull the mantle. then and only then will you be a stud.
Nov 21, 2001
- South Wall
This wall goes with all natural holds for hands except for the last panel between columns at the left end (facing the wall).
May 27, 2003
- South West Crack
use the hinges on the door (left side) hit the horizontal crack bust to the top and mantle. helps if your not a chicken shit or tall
Nov 21, 2001
- Statics and Structures
This is a V3? God I suck....
Oct 2, 2009
- Walk Around
start with your feet on the Y pillar and undercling the pillar then lunge to the top and mantle. fun way to freak-out overacheivers.
Nov 21, 2001
- Windows
Variation (actually a separate route). Climb straight up between the two windows. Pinch the right fin of the left window and the left fin of the right window and "throw" yourself into the very slippery chimney created by those two fins. Squirm upwards until you've proved your point. V1+?
Nov 14, 2001
- X marks the spot
- Hale Science Building
- Ssshit It's Cold
Good add and eye for the line! Will have to check these out soon.
Oct 28, 2017
- Math Building
- Music Building
- Old Main
- UMC
- Wolf Law Building
- Old Mapleton Elementary School
- Pearl Street
- Safeway Spires
- United Methodist Church of Boulder
Eldorado Canyon SP- Bastille, The
- Bastille - N Face, The
- Bastille Crack, The
Left #6 (red) Wild Country Zero cam on the 4th pitch on Friday. Six pack of beer if you return it.
Nov 25, 2017
Truly a classic. Every pitch is terrific, and each are distinctly different in nature from the others. The traverse into the crack on pitch one never fails to make me hesitate and heighten my focus on the move into the crack - trust those feet and finger jams (thankfully it protects very well with one or two 0.5 cams in the bottom of the crack). The 2nd pitch may be the best of the climb; it is long and continuously engaging at the 5.6 level (maybe a 5.7 move or two). The 5.8 crux on pitch three is an exquisite sequence of delicate balance to pure power back to delicate balance. The 4th pitch has been overlooked due to the quality of the 1st three pitches, but it is a gem itself requiring imaginative and gymnastic movement on 5.7 terrain. The final chimney pitch is fun and best enjoyed as a free solo.
Jun 27, 2017
Note that it is possible to combine the first 3 pitches with a 60m rope, and one can combine the last 2 pitches even with a 50m rope (but watch out for rope drag).
Jan 1, 2001
Hello fellow climbers! My gf left a BD #2 cam at the belay station #3. I would love to buy you a beer if you happen to find it. Thank you so much! Rock on! Cheers, Kirill
Oct 29, 2017
Hi, I accidentally left my buddy's cam just above the first bolted anchor, it's right next to another fixed cam. If anyone comes across it, please message me, thank you!
Aug 3, 2017
Just onsight lead this on Sunday June 18th at about 4pm maybe, nobody at the bottom and a group sitting atop pitch 2. I'm a 5.7 leader and follow 5.9. Here is current beta: Did Rewritten first same day, Bastille is def. harder, it's steeper and more sustained 5.7 moves. However, it's not too polished or slippery or overcrowded to miss out on this classic. Go to a pure crack climbing crag, and see what it's all about. Then do climbs like this, and you won't complain! Pitch one beginning is not as hard or as slippery / polished as people are making it seem, the crack is very nice for jamming and laybacks. With that being said, definitely helps to have crack climbed 5.7 before because the climb goes 5.7t, but this is not the crux IMO. The next part after the chains is def. harder, crux probably in there somewhere, but the whole climb is sustained. Also good note to protect the beginning, pretty positive I got a 0.3. I was in the crack on the left before I pulled into it, I also had pieces on the right. I'm 6'0" tall, and stemming from the flake on the right to pulling and laying back into the crack on the left was enjoyable and not that hard. Pitch one 65ft is easily combined with pitch 2 with 60m rope assuming you have essential gear by climbing past the chains on the left. This is where having crack climbed really helps, as it's pure, beautiful, vertical, steep crack up about 80 feet to a good obvious belay ledge. Here you are atop pitch two in one pitch a long, beautiful, sustained line that goes pretty straight, once again the fun doesn't stop here. The next pitch follows the obvious steep crack on the left, more laying back and jamming with little feet, it's only about 70 feet, and you summit over a big, left-slanting ledge that you stay into the right corner, and at this point there is a lot of rope drag. So what I did was built my anchor in the obvious crack just to the left at the bottom of the next pitch. This is what I thought the best thing to do was. Worked well. Finally the last pitch is about 130 feet, you need runners for this. Still the intensity of this climb keeps going, it is sustained until about the last 50 feet, haha. There was a chimney in the end which I always think are easy, but some may call a b. Anyways with what you got to work with, I found it best to belay about 5 feet short of the summit in a little alcove behind a boulder at the top of the chimney. Basically, it worked well for us! Descent: from there go back up and left find Ivy's wire, clip a biner into it, unclip, follow the wire back to the south on the right through a tight, gullyish down hike. There is one spot 4th class. There is a big wall on your left, and Bastille is directly behind you. Follow the wall down towards the south passing a big, gnarly sport climb on the left, carefully make the hiking trail! Do this climb towards the end of the day, don't let someone say it will be sweaty or chalky. If you can do the moves, what's the issue. Less and less people will start this climb the later it is, and people leave. Now's a opening instead of waiting and being bored, climbing while watching the sun go down is magnificent, can't beat it! Hope all this helps lol. This is how much I loved this climb.
Jun 20, 2017
Dropped a yellow #2 cam off of the third belay station. It fell quite far down to a ledge below. If found, please let me know, and I'll throw some cash/beer your way. Thanks a million! Oh, and the climb is wonderful. Give it a go if you get the chance...just be sure to hang on to your cams. Cheers!
May 13, 2017
A bit more about getting down: when you reach the saddle at the top of the chimney on pitch 5, you are at the top of the route. The saddle rises up briefly to the northwest, or falls off sharply to the south, or rises up, by Ivy Baldwin's steel cables, to the southeast. Go southeast, up, past the cables, about 30 feet, and wiggle through a large inclined gap in the rock. You'll find the descent trail on the other side of the gap. The trail follows a gently descending ramp, that travels southeast along the entire west side of the Bastille. There are a few places where a short downclimb is necessary, maybe 10 ft, but not more than that. See the annotated photo in the photo section for the route.
Mar 18, 2017
Found your gear and sent you a PM. Just let me know when you'd like to meet, and I'll get it back to you.
Nov 11, 2016
Bailed at the top of P3 yesterday (11/6/16) (partner was panicking and we had run out of daylight), I had to leave a #0.75 Cam, a green DMM biner, and a locking biner at a piton lower down. If anyone recovers them, it would be great if you could reach out to me to return them.
Nov 7, 2016
P4 variation - what is it? Went straight up from the belay instead of traversing left. Still crossed the traversing gap but then set up the belay by the pin and headed straight up through some easy roof moves (harder than 5.6 though). This seem to be the harder variation described but haven't found any info on a name or thoughts on the rating. Just curious. P4. 5.6, 100'. Traverse left to a short corner with a destroyed fixed pin. Continue traversing left on awkward, off-balance moves past another fixed pin (crux). Go all the way left to a hand crack, and climb it to a corner. ****Don't start up too soon or you'll be off route on a harder variation.**** Climb the corner, then continue up and right on easy ramps to a belay stance below or just right of a chimney.
Nov 3, 2016
This was my first rope solo back in 1975, and after decades away, my wife and I made a quick overnight trip in and out of town last year so I could do a fortieth anniversary rope solo of it. Unfortunately, however, we were so tired we ended up oversleeping in the hotel that morning and found the usual conga line on the route and in line when we got there. I was pretty bummed, because I only had a few hours available for the climb and it clearly wasn't going to be happening from the end of the line at the rate things were moving. Then all of a sudden, and seemingly out of nowhere, dark clouds and a truly fierce wind came up along with some rain, so everyone in line scattered and the first two parties on the route bailed. Once everyone dispersed, I was able to jump on it and was lucky the wind edged back a bit and the rain became intermittent. All in all, it all made for a fairly wild and somewhat less-than-casual go of it, and I felt incredibly lucky to have been able to do it again. But the most striking thing about the whole experience wasn't so much the climb but rather that so little had changed in Eldo and on the route itself since 1975. It was like being whisked back through the decades in a time machine - I still can't get over how odd that aspect of it felt. On top of that every other move and placement was like running into a long lost friend with all kinds of memories flooding back. It was also a treat to be able to lay a hand on Ivy Baldwin's cable at the top. Say what you will, but it's as timeless a classic as they come.
Sep 10, 2016
The Bastille Crack is, in many climbers opinion, one of the best moderate multi+pitch routes in North America. If you have strong lead+climbing skills at the 5.8 level, a competent, experienced partner, and the weather is nay cold, you should have a blast. (If either of you flail on the first 1/2 pitch .. heed the Gods and rappel at the chains, otherwise all kinds of negative are likely to manifest.) Enjoy the crack climbing by making the moves slowly, with the joy of physical movement. Be courteous and graceful at the base, and en route, as the desire to climb this route can result in amped up emotions amongst fellow humanoid rock climbers.... Pay homage to our passionate & ballsy & talented patriarch, tight+wire walker (sans leash) Ivy Baldwin at the top by clipping the 1" steel anchor cables. Then perhaps head up to the Visitors Center, and watch the DVD of the history of the Canyon with footage of Mr. Ivy Baldwin's high wire walks (and then hit the pool (now heated, summer 2016,) for a grrreat way to soak it all in). Enjoy.
Aug 19, 2016
BC = rad. Fun times. Look out for the #1 Camalot graveyard 1/4 of the way up P2. I think there are about 5 in there.... Extend yer pro, buddy!
Aug 15, 2016
Climbed for the first time today. Found it to be much harder than Rewritten. Take as many #3s as your heart desires for sewing up the 2nd pitch.
Aug 11, 2016
Had to bail off Bastille due to weather a week ago and left a #0.75 Black Diamond with a green biner on it halfway up the first pitch. If you happened grab this and want to return it, give me a call 3306963878.
Aug 11, 2016
Found a draw at the base today. Describe it, and I'll help you get it back.
Aug 10, 2016
I thought 5.7 was fair, although I'm from the Midwest, so I'm used to stiff grades. The first pitch was amazing but not nearly as difficult to climb or protect as people are making it seem. A #4 helps a lot for psychological purposes, because you can shove it in that huge flake right before doing the crux traverse, although you do have to play with it to get a solid placement since the crack is a bit flaring. I actually found the short 3rd pitch to be the crux of the climb. Exiting that overhanging finger crack by pulling over the small roof was quite spicy on lead, as there were next to no feet and I ended up having to lock off a crimp to get my feet up and pray there was something better above (luckily, there was a thank-God jug!). Knowing how to crack climb definitely helps (esp. for 2nd pitch), and if you don't, I could see where people would find the route sandbagged, but if you do, it's an incredibly fun climb.
Jul 29, 2016
Anybody have the backstory on the exploded pin on P4? As I wandered by it, I got lost in a daydream of someone blowing it out as they whipped by holding a loose block, although I suspect something more mundane, like someone trying to remove it via funkness. It would make for a nasty landing if that was your first and only pro and you fell.
Jul 3, 2016
Super fun route. The last time I climbed it around 15 years ago I didn't enjoy it as much as I could have, since it started pouring rain on the 4th pitch, and we topped out with lightning snapping all around. A much more pleasant day today.
Jun 24, 2016
Accidentally left a tied sling on the barrier wall opposite the Bastille Crack today. Blue with a black covering the neck. If someone picked it up, please contact me...it isn't very valuable but has sentimental value...it was given to me by a dear friend. Thanks.
Jun 5, 2016
My follower had to leave my beloved 0.5 x4 on the 4th pitch. If anyone gets it out, I can provide 12 tasty beers in exchange.
May 25, 2016
1st pitch of The Bastille Crack. Absolutely great climb today, the first pitch is a bit polished but otherwise really great. Had to abandon a #11 BD stopper on pitch 3 or 4, so if anyone gets it out, please let me know. Also, the attached picture is of the group that was ahead of us, if you'd like the rest of the photos, just message me your email.
Apr 13, 2016
Climbed Bastille Crack and Rewritten the weekend of 8/15/15. In our humble opinion, Rewritten is a grade harder than Bastille Crack. So 5.6/5.7 or 5.7/5.8, take your pick. Personally have Bastille Crack at 5.7 and Rewritten at 5.8. Most of this route is protected from the sun which is nice. P1 is pretty polished. P1 & P2 are the crux pitches goes easy after that. The downclimb from the summit is pretty cool. Bastille Crack and Rewritten are awesome climbs!
Aug 23, 2015
Pitch 4/5 can be a bit confusing if you don't check out topo a ahead of time, mistakenly got off route and had to back track to get back onto route. Accidentally left a yellow Neutrino in a piton on pitch 5! There for the taking!
Jul 24, 2015
Doesn't get any better for a classic climb (unless you are moonlighting on a birthday climb with your best friends in tandem, and then it's simply CLASSIC).
May 31, 2015
I recovered a cam 9-13-2014 that someone probably abandoned as fixed. PM me with brand/size/etc. and I'll get it back to you.
Sep 14, 2014
Loved to solo this at sunset, but it's harder than 5.7 sandbagger rating back in the day. When you're 30 feet off the deck and you realize that you committed yourself to this free climb, you're focused like a fiend. Didn't want to start "The Elvis" and peel off. Much relief at the summit by the old cables with the orange sunset. A memory etched in my mind forever. Felt a rush of adrenaline in my veins after that climb that got me hooked on climbing for life.
Sep 6, 2014
Climbed this beautiful multipitch with my wife yesterday. Super uber polished in areas and def seems like it can be pretty crowded, but we were lucky and had it to ourselves. It is ridiculous how much pro has been left behind in this route. Lastly, the shade is awesome!
Jul 6, 2014
Did it in 2 pitches yesterday morning with a 60m. Single rack to 4. If this is your first trad or trying to break into 5.7/5.8, the crack will SEW up with doubles from fingers to 4. No needs for nuts. 0.3 protects off the deck very nicely. If you're comfortable running it out, 2 pitches is the way to go.
Jun 6, 2014
Retrieved a nut and, more importantly, a cam from the route yesterday. PM me & describe it/location to get it back!
Jun 2, 2014
Linking pitches 1-3 and 4-5 is possible with a 70m, there is even rope to spare. Drag is really not bad, even with 200 ft of rope out.
May 11, 2014
Cool, next time I try it, I think I'm going to shoot for 1-3 and 4/5.
Apr 1, 2014
I've done it in two pitches with a 70m a few times. I linked 1+2, 3+4+5.
Mar 27, 2014
Climbed this route again yesterday for the 5th or 6th time and finished right before a wicked storm rolled in. Had what I would guess to be 70+ mph winds for the hike down.
Super fun! Has anyone done it in 2 pitches with a 70m? I was thinking you could link pitches 1-3 (the best climbing), and 4/5 with some long slings for the traverse on pitch 4. It's also quite easy to link 3/4 with a 60m, I thought about attempting pitches 3-5 yesterday, but we had a 60m rope and I think I would have came up about 20' short and had some bad rope drag.
Mar 27, 2014
Lost an red #4 Metolius master cam at the base of the Bastille Crack on Friday, August 16th, 2013 in the afternoon/evening. Please post/contact me if you picked it up. Thanks. Awesome climb.
Aug 18, 2013
A gear graveyard! Even with long slings I had a couple pieces try and walk on me, so watch out. Do the 5.8 "fun finish"!
Sep 10, 2012
Does anyone know what the grade is for doing the more direct line for pitch 4 (according to the pitch breakdown in the description). I didn't traverse all the way over to the handcrack/gully and instead took the first line up that I could (shallow, corner-type thing that turned into face climbing past some shrubberies). The grade felt in line with the previous pitches, and besides being a little dirty/loose, it was fun.
Aug 19, 2012
After many years of not doing this route and just walking by... Plan B ended up with us on this route while rock trumbling was going on at Redgarden! Personally found it to be anti-climactic! Pitch 2 was great! Combining 1 & 2 would be a great pitch and maybe 1, 2, and 3 with a 70m would be stellar! 4 and 5 were just not interesting, blocky, and slightly wandering ... feel these 2 pitches take away from it being classic! Atop pitch 3 is a fixed cam a #1 & 2 maybe a 3 cam should help that belay also a stopper, too. Atop pitch 2 with a pin gear about 1 to 2 inches... I used a lrg stopper and tricam.... Extend those runners to not sacrifice your cams... so many cams walked deep into the flake systems.... Leave the small stuff behind... and the big stuff, too, 1/2" to 3" place non stop, so double up on those if you like placing pro very 8-10 ft. and personally think of this climb as G rated! Superfun, though don't get me wrong... will do again for sure... enjoyed the historic pin scars, and blown & cracked pins on this route... good reminder to back them up or just skip and place pro!
May 25, 2012
The transfer at the first crack can easily be protected with a 0.5 if you can reach across to the crack. I placed this before I fully committed and was way fine. Overall, fun route, I'd give it 5.7. Did it this morning at 8 and while cold, we had the whole wall to ourselves (no wonder....no sun haha). Glad I woke up to do this.
Apr 5, 2012
I pooped my pants on pitch two. I wish I was kidding. I just thought everyone should know.
Oct 16, 2011
Toomy, I am simply voicing my opinion on the grade along with 50 other people, so why don't you forget the attitude and leave it alone. It is such a problem that I have an opinion that is different than a few others?
Jul 11, 2011
Tyler, the first three pitches are way harder than 5.4. If you think The Wind Ridge (5.5) is harder than the Bastille, you are crazy. Calling this climb 5.4 goes well beyond sandbagging, it's being a jerk.
Jul 8, 2011
Pitch 4 did have that funky stance on it, but I don't think it's 5.7. I have sweated bullets on 5.6 pitches in the Gunks, and this route was CHILL. If this is 5.8, then I should be one-hanging Jumbo Love.
Jul 5, 2011
Tyrel, quit trolling. Even by Seneca standards, these were worth their ratings, not to mention I either went off route or pitch 4 is definitely the crux pitch! Not the start.
Jul 2, 2011
There did not seem to be any moves that warrant 5.7. I submitted a 5.4 rating because it seemed easier than any other 5.5-6 multi-pitch routes I have done. The short third pitch was definitely the funnest climbing of the entire route.
Jun 30, 2011
Call me silly, but I found P2 to be a good deal harder than P1. P1 was scarier until you've protected after the step-across, but otherwise, I wonder how P2 gets a lower rating? Superb climb and excellent for every foot of it to the top of the last pitch! In addition too, linking P1 & P2, with 70m doubles we easily linked P3 & P4. It could possibly work with a 60m single if you are smart with your pro placements on the first part of P4 and don't mind running that part out. BTW, my 5.8 rating is just in relation to how the climb felt to me compared to ratings in Yosemite Valley. Eldo's ratings are stout :-)
Jun 7, 2011
This was one of my first leads and a great climb. And the low crux getting into the hand crack I was told to protect before commiting to the hand crack. Which is done easily and you don't have to worry about your gear ripping out of that sketchy flake.
Apr 27, 2011
Unbelievably sweet line! No issue with the polish - the constrictions of the crack hold your fingers and hands just fine. Loved the 5.8 finish variation.
Oct 7, 2010
Lovely route, but the PF is closer to a 5 than a 1 (Polish Factor).
Aug 20, 2010
A friend and I did Bastille Crack a few weeks ago. I have a question about the final pitch variations. I the new (awesome) Eldo Guide book it lists an 8- PG variation that climbs the corner off-width and it lists an 8+ PG-13 variation that takes the nice crack just to the left of the off-width. We did the "8- PG" variation which approximately matches the "fun finish" listed above, and found the gear by the crux to be a little lacking. Maybe a #5 would protect the last few moves up the off-width, but with a standard rack you find yourself about 10 feet above your last piece(s) and only 16 feet above a ledge. I haven't done the crack to the left, but I have a hard time imagining how the gear could be worse given that it's a finger/hand crack. Any thoughts?
Aug 13, 2010
Did this climb today for the first time, and it was great. I did the 8 variation on the 2nd pitch and didn't have any big cams but was able to slot a nut up and left from the start of the short traverse. The variation was not to difficult, but it did feel a little run out. It had rained last night, but the route looked dry. The 4th pitch felt like 5.8s though as half the holds had water on them and couldn't be used, be careful if it's wet.
May 14, 2010
Yes, and per Chris' comment above about belaying the road, I actually threw my rope down on the road while rappelling down off of Werk Supp and a car came and drove right over it! Didn't even bother to try and go around.
Feb 1, 2010
Re the fourth pitch: when in doubt, go up and left. When you can't see around a corner, reach, and your hand will land on a 5.6 hold. If it looks harder than 5.6, don't go there. If it feels harder than 5.6, you're off route. Remember up and left.
Jan 11, 2010
I climbed the first pitch of this last September. My second lead at 5.7, and yeah, the step below the crack is slippery, but if you reach into the crack, there's a tiny ledge of rock inside the crack on the side that you're stepping from that you can wrap your fingertips around and get a pretty solid grip (or was I dreaming). I had to feel around in the crack for a bit to find it. It was a lot of fun, and just the first pitch deserves classic status for being as vertical as it is at the grade, and the rock is beautiful. Clouds rolled in and it was raining as we rapped down from the first belay. Re: the grade...I don't know what all the fuss is about. I don't see people trying to upgrade Friday's Folly, which I led the day before, and found much more difficult, at least in the problem-solving and psychological aspects of it. For one, the moves on the first pitch of the Bastille Crack were obvious, no guessing, and if you have trouble placing adequate gear here (how?!) you should work your way up to the grade more slowly. It was easy to protect, even for a beginner like me. Having to watch out for cars while you belay is a little odd....
Jan 10, 2010
Nervous going into it. But when I got to the chains on the first pitch, I knew the whole route would be pure fun. Don't get spooked by 'polished rock'. Great climbing, and check out the cable that Ivy Baldwin used to tightrope over to the Wind Tower. If you liked this route, try the Lover's Leap Crack off 470 and 85. It's got the same exposure and a 'two move stem crux'.
Oct 8, 2009
CLIMBED THe WEST BUTTRESS BY MOONLIGHT ON 9/28/09 AND GOT MY ROPE STUCK IN A CRACK AT THE SUMMIT, I HAD TO LEAVE THE ROPE AND TRIED TO GET IT IN THE MORNING BUT DDN'T HAVE ENOUGH TIME TO RAP DOWN AND GET IT PROPERLY, WENT BACK AFTER WORK AND IT WAS GONE, PLEASE PLEASE, IF YOU HAVE MY ROPE, RETURN IT TO THE FIREHOUSE IN ELDORADO SPRINGS OR CALL ME AT 720 217-4897. A CLIMBER WITHOUT A ROPE IS A SAD SAD THING, PLEASE OBSERVE KARMA. THANK YOU. I KNOW THIS IS THE CRACK FORUM, BUT I JUST WANT A LOT OF PeoPLe TO SEE THIS POST.
Sep 29, 2009
Could someone tell me about the 5.8 variation on P2. Is it the OW that traverses roughly 25ft beneath the next belay? I think I may have gotten off route a little because this seemed to be closer to a 5.8. If so does the actual route turn to face climbing during this section? thanks
Jul 6, 2009
Hmmm. I was a bit disappointed. Rewritten is a way better 5.7. I last climbed the Crack back in '78 (Litz are you out there?). Amazing what cam technology can do to your adrenaline rush. By the way, does anyone in Boulder have a job? By 9:30 on a Tuesday morning, Eldo is teeming with people top roping on the Bastille. What the hey?
Jun 17, 2009
There is a very loose flake right below the second belay. It makes for a great left foot when heading for the belay ledge, but when I stepped on it it flexed about half an inch. I was suprised that it didn't break off. Fortunately there are plenty of other options to use and the climbing is very easy in that section. Have fun on this route and be careful. Peace.
Mar 5, 2009
Great route no lines but a bit cold. Got it done in 2 pitches with a 70m and some gnarly rope drag. Did the "fun finish" it was fun....
Nov 1, 2008
I'm not quite 6', I'm a much better face climber than crack climber, and I made the traverse from the flake on P1 pretty early. That said... I would rate it an 8. Maybe I did it wrong, because the crux on P3 I felt to be easier than the crux on P1. Awesome climb though.
Aug 30, 2008
Do it at night with a full moon (after you've done it at least once in the day), it's better than any of those drugs you took in the '60s and '70s!
May 16, 2008
No wonder this route always has a line, THE BEST 5.7 EVER! Can easily be done in 2 longer pitches without much rope drag if you have fairly good rope management skills. Climb past the first pitch and then past the start of Out Space then up to the Traverse at the top of the in cut ramp. Belay before doing the Traverse. From there, lead to the top. Have Fun!
Aug 28, 2007
Finally, found the time to get out and do this one. My wife and I were in boulder for our 10th wedding anniversary, so her gift to me was following me on the Bastille. What an incredible climb. Pitch #3 was definitely my favorite, with great position and gear. I did the traditional finish up the chimney, and finished that by moving left from the top of the chimney up about 8-10 feet of slightly overhanging pocketed face. It was a fun, bouldery, but very short add on, that reminded me of Hueco Tanks.
Aug 19, 2007
Did this guy today, it took 4 hours though because we started at 2! and it rained for a good hour, so we had to wait a little. My first time though on the thing, it was incredible! sustained and classic. The rain gave Ryan and I a whipping though. But what a great climb.
Jul 27, 2007
Led the first pitch again yesterday after doing a number of 8's recently in Eldo and at JTree, and no way is the first pitch 5.8 - at least not for a 6' male with a -1/2" ape index. 5.7 definitely feels right - but your crack technique and gear placing skills must be solid. I'm also not sure why folks get confused about the 4th pitch. To me, there's only one place to climb that looks anything like the published grade of the pitch (5.6). Everything else anywhere nearby looks MUCH harder. OTOH, I find the description above of this pitch to be confusing and not matching the pitch well. Just move slightly down-ramp from the belay and climb up in the easiest spot and follow the easiest climbing. It's really pretty obvious (of course, maybe I'm just not a good enough climber and so am not tempted by the other possibilities! ;^)
Apr 30, 2007
The third pitch is perhaps the best 5.7 pitch I've done anywhere. Simply amazing movement, location, and protection. Also, the 4th pitch is very easy to get confused on the proper route. Check the topo before you leave the ground.
Jan 6, 2007
You don't have to deal with the crowds if it's 20 degrees and windy...then again you have to deal with frozen fingers.
Dec 17, 2006
The very best 5.7 that I have ever done.
Sep 12, 2006
After never wanting to wait in line, I decided to send this route on Sat. morning. Got to the base about 6:45 and no one was on the Bastille, yet. Found the route to not nearly as slick as I thought it would be and 5.7 a very fair rating. I think most of the route is 5.6 with a couple 5.7 moves on P1 and P3. Pro placement is not trivial on the first pitch, but it's all there, if you seek it out. Classic, one not to be missed.
Jun 17, 2006
This crack is probably by far one of the most exciting and thrilling in all of Eldorado Canyon. 5.7+ is a good rating, a standard rack with plenty of cams will do you just fine. The first ten feet or so of the second pitch has a small roof and can be somewhat tricky if you don't have much experience with roofs. But overall very good climb and worth climbing.
Jun 7, 2006
There is no way the first pitch is 5.8. I would rate it at a 5.7-, but it was pretty wet when I climbed it. I can see how if you climb it wrong it could be harder. It is a step from a big stance at the bottom of the flake, to good feet and nice holds. Pitch 3 is the crux and went at easy 5.7, it is really short with big holds all over and really good gear whenever you want. I took 1 set of cams to #2 Camalot w/ doubles in green, yellow and red Aliens, and about 5 stoppers. I wish I would have had a lot of big stoppers, some hexs and 1 set of cams from green Alien to #1 Camalot. It would be fun to climb this with just nuts and hexs and I'm definitely going to do that next time. A fun route and a must do, I can see why it gets so much traffic.
Nov 1, 2005
Lots of gear on 4th pitch! My partner and I got into a jam last night when we ran out of light and had foolishly left our headlamps at home. Because of this, our cleaning of the 4th pitch was hurried and whoever is the first to climb it today (Saturday, October 8th) will find some decent pieces. Of that person wishes to trade those piece for some tasty beer and good karma, please call Ryan @ 303.746.5643 and I will happily pick them up. Also, the days are getting shorter so don't forget your headlamps, even if you leave the house in the early afternoon, by the time you wait for a couple of parties and get going, it gets dark fast. Thanks again to the guys who were kind enough to lower us a headlamp from the top (we had made it to within 50 feet of the summit when I decided not to break an ankle trying to lead out in pitch darkness). Thanks! Oh yeah, great route of course, I thought the crux was the 3rd pitch and that is is 5.7, but it's old school Eldo 5.7 for sure.
Oct 8, 2005
I did this 1st time last week; I would simply second most of the comments here. It wasn't difficult, I thought the 1st pitch was EZ, everyone says it is the crux. 2nd and 3rd pitches tripped me up a little. AWESOME climb! What is this talk of greasy 1st pitch? I had no problem and I don't even use chalk. colorado-hiking.net/bastill…
Aug 2, 2005
Hi guys, I'm sure I'm not as good a climber as most of you are, but I just redid the Bastille Crack a day before Bastille day, and I couldn't disagree more with your comments. I first did it in June of 1975, and have done it a few times since. It still seemed no harder than a 5.6 to me, maybe minimal 5.7. The first pitch isn't any greasier than I remember it . I'm sorry, I just don't get it. It is a great climb, but it's not that hard.
Jul 15, 2005
Did this one last Saturday. I'd say P1 goes at 5.8 due to the glassy like finish on the rock. Also, I recommend the 5.8 variation on the last pitch. I'm guessing a red Alien would have fit nicely at the crux (last move of the climb), which of course I didn't have because it disconnected from me somehow while I was fiddling with gear. Thus, Larry's red Alien took a ground fall. RIP red Alien, you were badly missed :( . The green Alien I used was just barely cammed. At the crux, just remember you have good feet, just keep moving them up!
Dec 14, 2004
Lead the first pitch on 10/17...finally, after all these years of looking at it. Fun route.
Oct 22, 2004
I think the crux on the first pitch might be 8ish if you are short, definitely 7ish if you are taller (like me).
Aug 12, 2004
I climbed the Bastille Crack again last weekend with my buddy Rob, who taught me to climb 22 years ago. We were the second party on Saturday morning. The first party was from Illinois, and they were great guys enjoying a week in the Rockies. At the bottom of the third pitch, the belayer offered to wait and let us pass on the fourth pitch, because we were climbing a bit faster than them. We took him up on the offer, I gave them a little beta on avoiding rope drag on the last pitch, and climbed quickly. A beautiful day, a classic climb, friendly climbers. Wouldn't it be great if we could all treat each other like these guys treated us?
Jul 27, 2004
Robert Curtis - I did this last thursday after climbing the first pitch of Touch and Go (8+), honestly I think between a hard 5.7 to a solid 5.8 is fair (for the first pitch). Lots of fun!
Jul 19, 2004
Let's remember that at one point in time, there was no such thing as a 5.11. This used to be a .6 out of a possible .10. It now gets a 5.7 rating because we all love Eldorado and it's own personal stiff rating system. Sure I'll lead .11d at sport park. But I'm still shut down above .10a at Eldo. That's just the way the cookie crumbles. We are using the "Yosemite decimal system". Try leading the first pitch of "After Six" in Yosemite Valley. This pitch used to be considered 5.6, and it now gets the 5.7 rating. This Pitch is also WAY harder and more sustained than anything on Bastile. Make sure to use an extra long sling at the starting flake, I had a cam walk all the way up and out of my ownership.Having at least three 1"+/- pieces extra at the main ledge before p4 makes the anchor simpler. There are several bomber placements in this range at this belay. A 50m rope will get you to the top from here if you watch the rope drag(long slings).All things aside, I love this route. A great way to shake off the cobwebs after winter.
Jun 29, 2004
The Ernie Port photo shows the step across from the flake to the crack on P1 for those curious about the part that became greasier after the 80s. Newer leaders, be sure you slot this crack before committing but don't immediately slot a backup higher above you, IMO - you might need the room and the crux goes rather quickly; this has been the scene of far too many accidents.
Jun 12, 2004
THE classic. The queues don't form for the access reason alone. Consider that many only do P1 but this designation is for the entire route. On the rating, the old 5.6 was before a general consensus. The 5.8 rating (Rossiter, 1989) was before it became ultra-polished. It was down-graded to .7 but after a many-year hiatus I am astonished at how polished a route can become and believe a return to .8 is justified for the hardest move on P1 with the variation on P2 being 8-. Expect more Eldo routes to show similar signs of wear.
Jun 12, 2004
Speed record climbing down 10m 42s (23 Oct 03). Speed record up remains 5min 33sec.
Jun 6, 2004
I climbed the Bastille with my 5 year old son last week and it was great. When climbing with little kids (if anyone other than me does?) the hard part is actually the 5.4 part of the climb because of the reach. I had to push his bum up a couple of the rocks meanwhile I could not keep up to him on P2. Fun climb but a crack climb. Kids might do better on the Werk Supp route, I will let you know later this week!
May 31, 2004
Climbed it this weekend and got to lead the whole thing b/c my partner had already led it a few times. I think it's a stellar climb. I'm a 5.7/5.8 leader and found it challenging. Tricky moves throughout. Started at about 9 am. Nobody waiting at the bottom, and pretty much had the climb to ourselves. The infamous slippery P1 wasn't slippery, and the pro was just fine. Still probably a good idea to be very cautious at the bottom of the P1 crack b/c a fall from there could be bad. Really bad if your pro pulls. I didn't find a slippery section on the whole climb. I think because the rock was still cool (no sweaty hands) and the route hadn't had any traffic yet that day. Tried the 5.8 variation at the top of P2 but didn't quite get it. Couldn't turn the corner from the lower traverse to the right-facing side of the flake. Seemed like the only way to do it was to pull a big lieback, but I was too pumped by the time I tried that, and ended up falling and heading up the standard route. Can anybody offer some beta on this move? Cool route everyone. A must do.
May 17, 2004
Climbed the Bastille Crack for the first time yesterday afternoon. I've climbed at Eldorado for several years now and have finally gotten the chance to climb Bastille Crack (there is always a line at the base of it). Polished, dirty, lots of lost gear, pigeon crap, and usually a line of people on it. The canyon is much too big to wait for this route to open up.
Apr 5, 2004
The climb has gotten harder, at least since I moved here in 1995- slicker, more polished, etc. So I don't know how it was in 1960 or whatever, but I guess I expect some upgrading. For what it's worth, I'd give it 5.7 right now. As I recall, the rating was boosted to keep tentative leaders at the 'real 5.7 grade' away because they kept falling off of the start, which was not protected well by most 5.7 leaders cruxing there. Other climbs, such as Grand Giraffe have seen similar action. I've done it maybe 4X, once every few years since 1995 and each time it seems slicker than the last. Once it starts getting slick, people start slipping more, and the slippery slope of schmarm speeds along. Grand Giraffe is harder than it was. 10a is fair. Plus, 10a is usually easier than 9+ anyway. As for T2, you all know that the starting flake fell off right? That the past crux hold does not exist, and that the ground below has eroded? Now I'm not an old guy, and I 'never was' so calling me 'washed-up' or a 'has been' is quite a stretch. SO I guess I'll be considered objective here? Nah- I'll get labeled something or another by whoever, according the their agenda. So here's my take on it. I agree that in many cases the grades got softer. Some of this because certain climbs got much easier with the advent of sticky rubber, and others because of gear/protection options. Maybe when the average 5.9 got easier, but a good solid crack climb, (were rubber and pro are not relevant did not change), the grade on that moved by comparison and got 'harder.' Maybe only 20% of all routes really changed, so the system moved to upgrade 20% not downgrade 80%? Maybe that's why I can climb hard cracks but thin face hurts me? As for grades on other routes, particularly 'modern' or 'new wave' free climbing grades. I suspect there is some element of ego from previous sandbaggers and current mercy-graders. I'm certainly not feeling any stronger than 10 years ago, but seem to climb more hard routes despite somewhat frail health. So what can I say? The times change and I'm still having fun. That sums it up.
Feb 3, 2004
If this climb were rated solely for "maximum ego improvement" it would be 5.12 by now! Sometimes the difficulty of a climb CAN change over time. Holds may break off, or become slick with repeated use. I'm not sure if this has occurred on this particular climb (I didn't climb it in the 60s or 70s) but it's something to consider. I don't believe the individual rating of a climb is important except as compared to other climbs.
Feb 3, 2004
Just FYI, the 1967 guide rates the Bastille 5.6, Calypso 5.5, Tagger 5.8, Vertigo 5.10, Ruper 5.7, Grand Giraffe 5.8, T2 5.9 etc.etc. I guess 5.6 isn't what it used to be.
Feb 1, 2004
This climb is great. Easily the best 5.7 around. As for the rating, it compares nicely to The Owl (Dome), Empor (Cob Rock), and Verschnidung (West Ridge), all 5.7 crack climbs.
Jul 28, 2003
Instead of the normal 5.4 chimney section of the last pitch (about 1/2 way, after gaining the huge sloping ledge), consider the next giant dihedral to right. It offers an offwidth and some crack/face climbing. It goes at 5.7 and is more consistent with the grade for the previous 3 pitches. Also, more fun in my opinion.
Jul 21, 2003
Great climb.I dunno, maybe I lucked onto the right sequence, but i thought the first pitch was not the crux. I agree with those that though that the 3rd pitch was the hardest. More committing, at any rate. Still a classic any way you slice it.
Jul 18, 2003
Current speed records on the Bastille North Face are: July 1998 ground to top of climb 5 minutes 33 seconds ground to summit of crag (above YOUR MOTHER) 6 minutes 59 seconds P.S. It will never gain in popularity, but climbing down the BASTILLE CRACK is excellent. It's 5.7, the same as an ascent of the route.
May 29, 2003
According to "Best of Boulder", this route is now 5.8+! According to "Accidents in North American Mountaineering 2002", this route is named "Bestowal Crack". Just shows you can't believe everything you read ... and a good editor is hard to find ...
May 10, 2003
Bottom felt like a greasy 5.8. I thought it was equal to Reggae.
Dec 12, 2002
Hey Ernie, I was on the crack today with my girlfriend and I strung P1 and P2 together. As far as the climbing when it was nice not to have to stop. There was some confusion with the who was on belay etc. As soon as she got up to me, we figured out a system of tugs etc so there wouldn't be any accidents. I have never climbed The Bastille before and I love it! I wasn't real sure how the walkie-talkies would have worked out so I left them at home...Yeah I'll know better next time....Oh yes, there will be a next time!
Sep 27, 2002
While passing this route on our way to the upper west side of the Bastille recently I spotted a young woman really struggling to work out the beginning of the crack. I noticed her leader had combined P1 & P2. I'd be curious how this situation worked out. I suggest when leading this route, and combining 1 & 2 or any long routes close to the stream, especially with inexperienced climbers, bring 2-way radios. Otherwise, you'll be sitting up on that ledge waiting and waiting, unable to hear or see your partner, until finally forced into an assumption which can lead to an accident. Be careful out there!
Sep 27, 2002
First, this is a frickin' damn good climb. Second, I think that there are many reasons that warrant giving this route a 5.7 c/d S (V) grade, although it can be done 5.6 C1. The traverse to gain the crack on the first pitch is frickin' hard: the crux move requires technical stemming and finger locking and the feet have been super-greasy ever since some ignoramus decided to use some old motor oil instead of chalk to "tic" the holds. There is also groundfall potential because you must wait till you gain the crack to place gear lest the throngs of watching climbers and gapers will think that you are a miserable coward that barely deserves to slave away at belaying a sportie at Table Mountain let alone climb THE Bastille Crack. I'd recommend a stick clip to pre-place gear in the crack in case you get gripped up there. After that, its pretty much a cake walk unless you get your haul bag stuck. If this happens or another party slows you down, the ledge at P3 is a good place to bivy. After completing the climb, a tricky 3.9 sportaneering gully with difficult route-finding must be descended in order to get back to your car.
Sep 21, 2002
The variation at the top of pitch two is definitely the way to go for if you're up for it. Its easier than Reggae only in that it is shorter. Technically it feels about the same as it has the layback thing going at 5.8. It protects at the bottom of the flake with a big cam; #9 Metolius.
Sep 12, 2002
Led the route today and felt P1 to be solid (7) with one polished hold on the crack. Maybe a half grade higher because its a little slippery. But what difference does it make, splitting hairs over a (7) climb? Definitely test your mettle on P2 and take the flake to the right (8) before the belay ledge (lay it back and smear). On the last pitch read Matt Bauman's description above and go for it. That way is the right way, for the Bastille finale, in my opinion.
Aug 8, 2002
At the top of P3 on the left side there is a tiny, right facing dihedral. The plate/flake perpendicular to this on the face is loose.
Jul 20, 2002
I must have screwed up. There was an early move on that first pitch that felt tougher than the first pitch at George's Tree in Lumpy (5.9). The rest of it was more like 5.7, just an awesome route.
Jul 11, 2002
This is a good place to sit in the shade and watch all the beginner epics. "well protected 5.7+ crack - I can do that - I once led a 5.9 in the gym with no falls". In case there is not enough amusement with the Bastille Crack you can also watch the antics on Werk Supp. Apparently, this is a good place to toprope (either the Bastille, Northcutt, Werk Supp, March of Dimes, etc) because it seems everyday someone is blocking the upper pitches with a beginner toprope session. While you might find this amusing to watch be sure to stand back because at least one gumby will drop something or pull on a loose rock. It can even be exciting (or horrifying) to watch as the beginners sketch out because the crack is different (ie Eldo-type) then the one they practiced placing pro in and they place nothing that will stay put or hold a big fall. I guess it is easier to make enough money to buy a rack then to learn how to use any of it safely. eek. Somehow it makes me feel better and more relaxed to watch people on the NW Corner, Hair City, Outer Space, even Jules Verne. At least they know what they are doing. CB
Jun 10, 2002
Alright, I will put my two cents in on the rating---5.7. In my HUMBLE opinion, it isn't 5.8 or 7+. Also I didn't find it to be that slick and the feet were solid. cheers
Nov 6, 2001
On the photo, the short traverse out right on P2 I believe is 5.8, though I could be wrong - when I've done the route, I've continued up and slightly left following easy climbing instead of going right around that flake.
Oct 24, 2001
Casey Bernal - Although it should be obvious, I thought it must be said here too. Most of the guidebooks state explicitly to place pro in the flake and crack in P1 before stepping into them. There have been several ground falls here. This is one of the most spectacular 5.7 climbs around. Enjoy.
Oct 24, 2001
If you think wider is better, try doing the "move left down the ledge and go up a corner system" pitch one pitch too soon (where you're clearly supposed to do the finger crack). You'll soon find yourself in a short awkward flared chimney with a piton near the top that exits onto the ledge just below the normal P4 anchor. Probably 7+ or 8 compared with some of the chimneys at Lumpy.
Jul 28, 2001
I agree with the 5.7 rating. The only way I could see the first pitch being 5.8 is if you don't have a long reach. Those of us 6 foot or better do have an advantage. I've done it several times as it is one of my favorites. I also agree with the third pitch around the double cracks being more difficult than the first pitch, but only for a few moves.
Jun 13, 2001
I agree with George (by the way, your site is one of my faves George), the slick beginning of the crack seemed harder than 5.7 (Id say 7+). Also, a GREAT variation to the final pitch (avoiding the easy chimney) is to step right and head for the HUGE left facing dihedral with a wide crack....climb wide crack for ~10 feet and then take finger crack that angles up and left, becomes straight up and then opens to hands as it angles back right to the top of the dihedral.....GREAT 5.8 finish to this classic climb.
Jan 1, 2001
This route was originally rated 5.6 in the old Ament guide. I won't say it's that easy but if you stem between the crack and the edge of the flake to the right and than cross left at the top it's much easier than 5.8. Done this way the crux actually seems to be 3rd short pitch.
Jan 1, 2001
Best 5.7 around. It seems 5.7 to me... but then I've done it about 100 times. Great tip on the variation up top... thanks.
Jan 1, 2001
- Coach's Demise
About 3 years ago, (on June 25th, 2004 to be more precise) the loose part of the death flake was briefly in the middle of the road. Now, it's more off on the side.
May 31, 2007
Tried this route today and I have to agree on the Bomb rating, mainly because of the lack of pro and the large detached flake. Also it may very well be closer to an 'x', at least the way we did it. On lead I got forced left from the top of the flake (5.9) because of the lack of pro, in my opinion, the flake will come off if you fall on the nuts or cams you place behind it. Above that there is no pro till you get to the third pin if you go right from the top of the flake (.10). If you go straight up from the top of the flake it's probably 9+ but again there is very little in the way of good pro till you get to the third pin. Never did see the angle piton but it is probably hidden in the grass off to the left someplace.
May 21, 2007
Well...Seeing people rate a route this badly, I just had to go try it. On TR though, given the death flake warnings. First off, I only found 3 of the pins. Second of all it seemed S but not VS. The 50 pound block loose on top of the death flake was removed with benevolence it now lies 6 meters right of the base of Werks Supp. The remaining flake will easily hold a climber, but I wouldn't take a big fall on a cam behind it... The rest of the route was OK. Tricky to lead? Yes. Sandbagged? Yes. Minus two stars? Not that bad. There are numerous hidden holds that bring this into reality. It's on the shy side of a star, but the route is not a total bomb.
Jun 25, 2004
I never knew this route existed before Leo's post, so I had to go right out and get it! I have to agree on the bomb, but it's too bad we couldn't tag on a couple of negative stars. This would be minus-**.
Aug 28, 2002
- Cross-country
- Crossfire
Great Route! Rob told me to get on this route and Interceptors 11c, 2 routes that I think he has FAs of, so I hopped on both. This route is way harder than Interceptors, maybe even 12a I had a tough time figuring out which way to go (L, R, up) in the middle of the route about 15 feet before the mini-roof. In the process, I broke off the biggest foothold I could find making it quite thin there. Check it out.
Sep 14, 2008
Rob set the bolts for this with Matt on TR. When he led it with me belaying, the bolt studs were in, but he carried a bag of hangers and a wrench. So, as he got to each bolt, he slapped on a bit of glue, installed the hanger, then clipped the bolt. Pretty fun methodology. There was also a two-bolt belay (at a shelf close to the end of P2 of BC) that made this a great, long pitch. At the height of the bolt wars, this belay and protection bolt for the upper section were excised. The climb now joins 'Wide Country' instead of continuing up.
Sep 5, 2008
- DNF 5.10 variation
- Derek-Tissima
Wow, I thought this route was great. Interesting, thought provoking moves that left me smiling when I got to the top. I would give it three or four stars if it wasn't in Eldo. Makes me wonder if putting bolts in so one could lead it would be a worthwhile endeavor. My hunch though is that 40 feet of .12a in a canyon that hosts so much isn't worth equipping for lead, especially since so few seem to climb it.
Aug 15, 2009
I remember feeling slightly crestfallen when Derek told me he had done the arete; I had put in my share of tries over many years. More than just a committed soloist, he was an excellent technical climber. Long live the King
Aug 22, 2005
- Direct North Face
Very excellent route. The climbing is very continuous throughout all pitches with varying degrees of difficulty on all. Above the crux on P1 is pretty spicy! I balked numerous times over the course of many minutes but finally wiggled in a #2 BD stopper and 000 C3 and did the moves. Pretty decent distance above the pin without this gear.
Sep 7, 2012
This is far and away the best line I've done on the Bastille. An elegant and sustained directissima.
Aug 2, 2006
I first did the DNF around 1978 when I followed Rich Goldstone up it. Rich also led me up Rain which seemed pretty bold in that pre-cam period. Did the first pitch yesterday in much worse style. The approach was fine. Lots of gear, but a bit dicey at the bottom. The crux was frustrating. It looks pretty easy, but the problem is, I think, the holds, although in reach, are in the wrong places and the balance and sequence are difficult. After a few falls and hangs, I tightened my shoes and did it, only to get pretty scared on the easier ground. Got a tiny brass high (that later fell out) and moved far left. Good gear the rest of the way. The 10 finish seemed straightforward. Strong winds and dropping temperatures convinced us to abandon our plan to continue to the top. The crux is a bit problematic for the second because a fall swings you far left. Next time I'll climb double ropes (as I did this time) and after the crux not clip the right hand rope until the end of the 10 finish. This should provide a good TR for the second.
May 8, 2005
"So anybody want to name the climb, and where the RB initials are located on the climb??" Steve - isn't it on Vertigo, and the intials are at the belay below the direct finish roof? That's where I see those initials in my mind's eye, anyway. You can send me a bag of your left-over halloween candy for a prize if I got it correct :-)
Nov 17, 2004
Steve, I was climbing at the Gunk's with Howard Doyle and we came across a crumpled mess at the base of Karma Sutra. I don't remember the date but I am sure you do. Greg
Nov 16, 2004
Here is the story as told by PA in High Over Boulder:"I was wearing a pair of big mountain boots which Cub Schaefer gave me to try out on rock. I was using a stretchy nylon rope I didn't trust, I was belayed by a 14 year old kid I wasn't sure could catch me, I had no chalk. I had to hammer in all the pitons climbers today have the benefit of clipping, and I managed to climb the 5.11 move my first try. Dalke told me he'd done the upper section of the dihedral free and that it wasn't much harder than 5.8. So when I got the hard moves, and as all of my assorted adversities began to wear me out, and giving myself the benefit of the doubt that I could--under normal circumstances--lead 5.8, I started resting on carabiners on relatively moderate moves. Perhaps I shouldn't have listed it as the ffa. When people complained that I had cheated or been dishonest or some such, I returned and climbed the pitch in much more exact style." Also, Bob, I think you meant to type DH instead of DK. The old days are fun to reminisce. By the way, Steve, do you remember when and where we first met??
Nov 16, 2004
Very entertaining and great clues, Steve! Hopefully it will pique the curiosity of a new generation of Eldo history afficionados....but isnt the answer to the last clue a different climb, namely Rosy? I haven't seen the film in many years, but I seem to recal the incident that I think you're referring to occurring on the traverse.
Nov 15, 2004
The LK initial carving comment is truly interesting trivia. I'l have to figure out where ol' RB made his mark.
Aug 24, 2004
2nd PITCH HAS LOST A FLAKE: Today (6/29/04), I fell about 15 feet above the belay on the 2nd pitch (variation to the right), and my two cams pulled off a medium-sized flake. This was not the main undercling/lieback feature that you follow the the right, but a smaller undercling flake above the main one. I don't believe it will affect the overall rating of the climb, as the route really goes to the right of the flake before traversing back left above it. It does eliminate a couple of protection opportunities (which apparently weren't very good). Fortunately, my partner and I only suffered minor abrasions and a good scare. The flake landed in his lap, and is now sitting fairly securely on the ledge up and left of the belay. I'd hate to thing what would have happened if that sucker had fell to the road!
Jun 29, 2004
The Wide Country pitch would be 11d/12a as a Boulder Canyon sport climb
Sep 26, 2002
I did the first pitch of this (Wide Country) the other day and I have to say that the section past the bolt is one of the hardest low-11's I've done at Eldo. The 10ish section above at the overlap is exciting. The 'hand-sized cam' that protects this section is a bit sketchy as it is wedged against a loose block. However, the block doesn't flex, nor does it look like it's going anywhere. One can back this piece up with a bomber yellow alien up and left (if you are tall enough to reach the placement). An awesome pitch!
Sep 23, 2002
Nice job, AC, on figuring out the 11a face move. I've only followed this pitch once and I didn't figure it out. I think the runout above this move is horrendously scary looking. I need to follow this pitch once move before I'd lead it. On the second pitch, the key is matching on a small, insecure hold up and right. You get it with your right hand first, then delicately step up and match - very insecure. This move is hard, but not as baffling as the move on the first pitch. At least for me. I've led this second pitch before and followed it and haven't fallen off this move. If you fell three times, it must have been a descent fall since the gear is well below your feet as you reach for this ledge. How'd the fall turnout? Did you fall on the fixed pin or put in a higher RP?
May 9, 2002
I climbed this yesterday and was able to figure out the (yes, very footwork intensive - look around for awhile to find the key nubbin) 11a crux of the first pitch - but ended up falling three times on the 10c crux (you can see the huge shelf but how the heck do you reach it!) of the second pitch! Maybe I just couldn't figure out the moves, but it seemed a degree of magnitude harder then the 11a crux.
May 8, 2002
For those who want to be more precise about their spice, the 10b crux on the second pitch is protected by the smallest rp I own. Even with a screamer, I doubted it would hold. The next piece down, a pin, is maybe 8-10 feet below your feet when you make the crux move. Tom Isaacson
Aug 1, 2001
I looked around for the initials on Outer Space today(4/18), but couldn't find them. I stopped and looked at every conceivable sloping stance where a hanging belay would be possible. Any hints, how big are they.
Jan 1, 2001
I love how some people, when adding routes, describe the pro. Its not scary or poor protection - it's "exciting", or "a little spicy." :-)
Jan 1, 2001
The first pitch of this feels quite hard for .11a, very cool footwork intensive crux.
Jan 1, 2001
- Hairstyles and Attitudes
A classic with some stellar stone - no polish to be found. A few tips on gear: bring a double runner for the eight bolt which is after the crux and rightwards traverse to the no hands rest. A few moves past the eight bolt a green #0.75 Camalot can be placed to lessen the likely hood of hitting the ledge.
Apr 14, 2017
Strayed onto this by accident with in 1975 with just a few stoppers and a novice partner belaying me, and it's the closest I've ever come to dying while climbing. Managed to get off of it alive, but just barely. Interesting and not surprising to see it didn't get done until 13 years later - definitely burly with some sketch pro.
Apr 1, 2016
Now that the footsy block has been removed from the lower anchor (THANKS GUYS!), a decent stance can be made by placing a 0.4 size piece in the crack to the left of the anchor and clipping in short. Thanks again to everyone who has helped rebolt, dremmel, and trundle, this is an awesome rock climb!
Aug 12, 2014
Thanks to two brave souls from ACE, the footsy block has been gently lowered to the road.
Apr 26, 2013
Take care at the belay station below the climb. There's a detached brick in the crack below and left of the anchors. Your left foot and this doomstone will be playing footsy. Excellent trundle candidate, but clear the road.
Dec 1, 2012
Thanks for finishing the job!
Nov 3, 2012
Thanks to 3 recent sorties by members of the Action Committee for Eldorado, all old ring bolts are now removed, holes are pretty well camouflaged. Also, rings were added to the anchor at the bottom just in case anyone were to rap from there. FYI, those old ring bolts are a pain to remove. A Dremel tool with lots of batteries and lots and lots of fiber cutting wheels was the ticket, much easier than a reciprocating saw or hand saw. Pulling them out by force seems like a bad idea - forces are great enough to damage the rock. Big thanks to Madaleine for replacing the ring bolts. A multi-year team effort hopefully resulted in a pitch that gets more attention now. And now that Madame Guillotine's bolts have been replaced, the epic 5.12 link-up is ready for all suitors!
Oct 8, 2012
This is a great climb that is now a little harder due to one less hold before the crux. I pulled off a flake about a foot long and 4" wide from the rotten band. Judging from the chalk, I wasn't the only one to be using this hold. Establishing on the headwall below the crux is still in the realm of 5.11+, you may just need to figure out new beta. I pulled off this bad boy from the rotten band a little above the kneebar rest. The flake dangerously flexed when I used the crimp to help establish on the headwall before the crux.
Mar 21, 2011
Yes, there's a bolt at the lower belay (the start of the pitch). It will be obvious rapping down. This would be a cold winter route, though, good luck. -Scott
Dec 9, 2009
Thanks for all the hard work, Madaleine. This is on my list of routes to do for the winter here in the FRange. Karma will come around to whoever stole your rope. So, there is a belay bolt for this thing? If one were to rap down the route, it would be pretty obvious, yes?
Nov 10, 2009
This route has been equipped with new, 1/2" and 3 1/2" bolts. Not all the old ring bolts have been removed, and will be within a month or so. The bolts were replaced as they were first installed, with rap rings at the top and one new bolt at the belay from below. *ALSO**, a new, bright yellow static rope is "MISSING." I left it up there for over 2 weeks in the dark, deep recess/crack at the top-out. pls. return this to the ranger station or email me. If it was stolen, WOW and good karma to you.....and it's actually a dynamic rope so you should go out and take some whippers.
Jul 31, 2009
I belayed Scott on the all gear send today, it was sick!! He ran it out 20 feet on a so so number 6... that's right, you heard me, he climbed that bitch with a number six swinging from his harness. Good work, Holmes.
May 18, 2009
Hardcore F***n' Hardcore! Nice work, Scott.
May 18, 2009
Also, maybe replacing the bolts is not all that necessary... I went out today with my friend Matt and sent this route sans bolts, all gear. It's not really super runout, I did TR a few times first, but it could probably be done ground-up by a 5.12 climber. It actually felt easier this way, since you don't have to clip any bolts during the crux. -Scott
May 18, 2009
Glad someone is replacing the bolts on this thing, those old ones are annoyingly hard to clip! One question/concern though: I noticed there's a quicklink and rap ring on the new anchor bolt. Do you think the top anchor needs to be equipped for rapping? I can't really see any reason why you'd need to rap here, and if you're rapping in to approach the pitch, you can just hang a couple draws and retrieve them when you top out. I guess my concern is that someone with limited knowledge of the route/area will see the anchors and attempt to rap down to the ground, which would be tough. I know the anchors are not super visible from the summit, so it probably won't be a problem, but there doesn't seem to be a reason for having them equipped for raps at all. Again, thanks a ton for the volunteer work, I don't want to be negative, just thought I'd raise the question. -Scott
May 14, 2009
FYI: I obtained a permit to re-bolt this route (the old bolts will be removed and new 1/2" bolts as close as is safe to the old holes). However, due to a little power drill drama last week there is currently only one new bolt at the top of the route. Hopefully a new drill or battery pack will magically appear and the changing of the bolts may continue.
May 5, 2009
A good way to set up for this route is to belay about one third of the way up the second pitch of Outer Space, below the start of the prominent dihedral. This belay takes smallish gear, TCUs, nuts, etc. From there, climb the dihedral on Outer Space with some long slings, and then cut left onto the bolts of Hairstyles and Attitudes. Using this method you can take this pitch all the way to the top of the Bastille, and it's one of the best pitches in Eldo!
Apr 9, 2009
I assume you mean the belay at the start of the pitch? I seem to remember not having too much trouble finding gear there... but we always approached by rapping in from above and setting up the anchor at a natural starting point just up and left from one of the Bastille Crack belays. When I was working this route, one of my partners, who will remain unnamed and happened to be wearing my bright orange down jacket, had to relieve himself while I was climbing. Despite my protests he proceeded to urinate right into the Bastille Crack. A few days later I walked into the BRC and a few staff members jokingly chided "way to go pissing all over the most popular climb in Boulder last weekend!" "It wasn't me! I swear!"
Mar 18, 2009
This route would see way more traffic if it had belay anchors. It's a total pain to rig a belay, unless both climbers climb 12b/c and the second can remove all the crap. A big loose rock is in the way of your feet at the belay as well. It would drop straight down Bastille Crack.
Jan 31, 2009
- Independent Study
This is a worthwhile route for the obscure tour. I'd recommend bringing plenty of RPs and small nuts. I placed a #4 Camalot at the nest of slings in the bottom of the OW before starting the traverse. A baggy 0.5 or tight 0.75 fits okay at the crux. I was able to get a good green Alien right after that.
May 6, 2016
So a few weeks ago someone told me that this was a great alternative first pitch to NW corner and that it had great gear ("good small wires"), so I got on it and got spooked. What I found: There is a good purple Camalot right at the crux (didn't have it that day) but it's tough to place and it takes up a key hand hold making the crux harder (I felt) than most 10c's. A decent, purple TCU can be placed from the good stance before the crux and then that frees up the good hold. Placing the "good small wires" the rest of the way is hard, best to just punch it. Cool movement. There's a fixed wire/HB brassy on the route after the crux.
Aug 5, 2007
Dougald, I saw you on it last weekend and Commented to my partner "Somebody's on Independent Study. I've never seen anyone else on that before." I did it more or less straight up in 1996 with Mark Spieker, Done this way you just get bad stoppers in bad flakes, and only here and there. It's reminiscent of Marie Antoinette, but harder with some bad holds. I thought it was a scary 5.10c, maybe a few moves that were harder, for the sake of skipping suspect holds.
Jun 25, 2003
- Inner Space
Lots of lichen...zero chalk. The seriousness of this route guards some of the most intriguing and fun face climbing in Eldo. Don't sleep on the heads up "10a" climbing, spooky but fantastic! Only detraction would be the lichen, but that's due to the minimal traffic. The juice is worth the squeeze on his one. Full value onsight effort. P.S. Did not notice any "loose hold", at least that was needed. Don't let previous comments deter you.
Sep 8, 2017
On the first ascent of this pitch, I actually started from the second belay on XM, but instead of going straight right past a bolt, I followed the little arching corner up and right (part of the 5.9 XM variant Josh mentions above) and from its' end continued up and right across blank rock to meet the flake below the runout slab at its' bottom. This makes a more independent and committing route than the one described, but overall about the same technical difficulty. Rossiter's guide is correct. Glad you guys are enjoying the climb. -Jello
Jun 17, 2007
Back on this one again today with Joe. I was on the sharp end this time. I found myself with another case of "pastemouth" similar to last weekend on JV. Good thing you're pulling the crux with great gear near by. This climb is delicate and balancy is spots way out on marginal pro. Classic hairshow! Oh, I think the loose hold is gone.
Jul 2, 2006
I followed this climb with my friend Joe yesterday. We were doing the "spice tour". What an incredible pitch! I agree with the other comments that it is BOLD, but not death defying. Yes, there are some huge runouts, but on moderate rock. Leaving the belay and traversing over to the pin on NW corner is probably the spookiest section. Besides the bolt at the start, there is no pro for quite a ways. The runout below the crux would be very spicy on the sharp end, and yes, the loose hold is still there. It kinda caught me off guard. The crux section has bombproof gear about at your feet and it's really only a couple hard moves of 11. I guess I'll be on the sharp end next time. This climb should definitely be on every hardman/woman's ticklist. 4 STARS!!
May 28, 2006
While the runout is pretty serious, it is definitely more mental than really difficult. I wouldn't say it was any harder than 10a. Concerning the loose hold, it would be great if it was gone but I didn't feel like it was necessary to even go near it to finish the runout. With that said... WOW, Holy Shit! What an amazing pitch!
Jun 3, 2004
I thought this was sufficiently terrifying - I was more scared than on Jules Verne at least. The loose hold on the run out is a serious disaster waiting to happen. The hardest move of the run out (the actual crux comes later and is well protected) comes right before this hold - both my partner and I latched onto it and moved up to a better stance on it, only feeling it flexing after the fact. Someone please go up there and knock the thing off - preferably while seconding. Also, Rossiter's topo is misleading on this climb for three reasons. First, if you start this from the anchors atop Wide Country, you traverse almost straight right past a bolt, not up into the 5.9 variation of XM as shown. Second, there isn't an 11a S move near the top of the NW Corner piton crack as shown. Third, the run out is definitely more serious than 9+ S as shown. The climbing is pretty darn good though! A long, sustained, and interesting pitch.
Jun 2, 2004
- Interceptor
Protected the crux runout with a # 1 Camalot right next to the last good hand jam. About 1 - 2 ft below the optional micro cam placement. Whipped 25' at the crux, and I can testify that the gear is good :) Fantastic route.
Aug 8, 2016
Great pitch! Single rack of finger and maybe doubles on 1. I placed a #2 (not great) and a 0.75 (bomber) before the crux runout, number 1 would have been better. You can get in something smaller higher, but honestly that would be a speedbump. High quality but definitely R (a safe clean long fall).
Apr 22, 2016
I fell a good ways several times onto a red C3 in the green Alien placement mentioned above. I bent the $&%# out of it. I recommend either a flexible cam, like an Alien, or just going with the red C4 that's about a foot below that (I tested the red C4, it's good!). The beginning is a little scary, and I did a lot of traversing around. It looks like there are two possible ways to go, and of course the other way looks easier than the way you are attempting at the time... a little sketchy. You have to pull a "5.7" move (think the crux of the Bastille Crack) with no gear about fifteen-twenty feet above a bad landing.
Aug 26, 2011
Stellar climbing that seems to go on forever! This must have been 100 feet to the anchors and none of it boring. While this might be R rated for the first thirty feet (and it's only 5.7 there), after that it is safe with only the chance for a long, clean fall. Another Eldo gem.
May 18, 2009
Based solely on the last 2 editions of Rossiter's guides to Eldo (1989 & 2000), the FA is listed as Christian and Dale in 1984 (or perhaps the Kid in '77).
Sep 15, 2008
I'm perdy dang sure the FA is Rob Candeleria, CATS Rob. Great route with one critical sequence to read, other than that just great keep-your-head-together Eldo climbing.
Sep 14, 2008
Josh and Rob are right, an overlooked classic for sure. On my redpoint, I opted for a red Camalot about a foot below where Rob placed the micro Camalot in the photo, which I skipped. The classic conundrum of more pro or go is encountered. Those that can onsight I applaud as this un-Eldo gem is tough to decipher.
Jun 8, 2006
This is probably my favorite pitch on the Bastille -- classic Eldo. I think the only R section is the easy climbing early on. While a fall from the upper face/crux (before slinging the flake) could be big, it would also be nothing but air, in fact, I actually think it is a great pitch to push one's mental barriers on lead. The second photo of Rob Kepley leading shows the location of the green Alien or similar piece (his highest piece), but one should also note that gear to back it up (a green or red camalot) can be had underneath the flake he's standing on.
Jun 7, 2006
Just got back from Eldo this morning and climbed this route. What an outstanding pitch! Interceptor epitomizes Eldo climbing. Once you get out of the crack just keep your head in "check" until you can drape a sling over the flake. The moves are all there, just spicey. Three stars for sure. I would recommend this pitch to anyone who climbs this grade at Eldo.
May 26, 2006
I think that this is one of the better pitches in Eldo. Deserves 3 stars.
Apr 18, 2005
Also see the route description for The Spice Tour.
Dec 11, 2001
- Lilliburlero
- Liquor Mart
Cool route and fun movement. Lower section definitely has some sporty moves. Pins at the crux (there are 3) held a fall as of April 2016. Really unique movement for Eldo.
Apr 26, 2016
Great route. As for the name, Chip told me after they did the FA they asked Derek what they should name it, and with out any hesitation, Derek proclaimed "Liquor Mart!" Club salute for Sheaf Stout.
Apr 26, 2016
- Madame Guillotine
News Flash - All nine bolts on Madame Guillotine were recently replaced. All new bolts are 1/2" x 4.75" stainless Powers 5-piece. Allegedly completed by masked bandits with bad attitudes and a beat up Bosch.
Oct 8, 2012
A few more variations for those looking to enjoy the upper 5.11 section of MG: You can start on the Northcutt Start, and continue up the thin corner to start clipping bolts on MG. You can also Climb Werk Supp to Nexus into the upper 3 bolts of MG. All are great variation pitches on good rock!
Sep 24, 2010
FA: Erik Fedor, Rob Candelaria, 1989.
Apr 20, 2010
Sorry, I don't have my guidebook with me to check the FA info. Anyone know who put this up? -Scott
Apr 20, 2010
- March of Dimes
P2 & 3 link nicely. Fun climb.
May 20, 2016
Kerr, ditto Tony B above. 3 variations for P1 start, and if you want good pro, there are at at least 3 good placements on the left start before moving up into the left-leaning crack; a micronut then a TCU under the left-arcing overhang, then another good placement at the base of the crack itself before committing. If you start up and move right a little traversing across the 5.11 start, there's a great right kneebar to help you hang out to place and rest before the moves into the crack. Bolt anchors at top of P3. No more need to build a weird gear anchor.
Jun 17, 2015
Warmed up on the first pitch. There isn't much gear until after the crux. However I was able to wiggle in one of the smaller BD micronuts a little ways below the obvious wide spot in the thin crack. If you start on the far right, get to the good stance, and look around the corner, you can put in a blue TCU and extend it, then traverse left to the get to the sort of decent micronut placement. If you do slip at the crux and the nut comes out, you may just skim the ground instead of completely decking. This would also be nice for your follower, so they don't swing. Can't wait to go back and do the rest!
Jun 8, 2015
I really enjoyed all three pitches of this route! It was the first time I've ever done the first two pitches, and while they don't warrant classic status, they've got some fun, thoughtful climbing on them. The third pitch I hadn't climbed in more than 25 years, and it was as good as I remember!
Sep 10, 2014
Here's how this route breaks down: P1: 5.9. Ascend the right side of MoD Buttress via the right of two cracks. Small pro until the hand crack is gained. Belay at chains. 75 ft. P2: 5.10a. Scramble through easy terrain to an obtuse corner. Finger-sized cams. Lieback, stem and reach right to gain the top of the corner. Head right slightly to belay below the diagonal crack. 125 ft. P3: 5.10c. Climb the crack! Excellent movement... too bad it's so short. Great pro. Belay at top of crack from a BOLT ANCHOR. Descend to the east. 10min. back to base. Good route.... Would definitely be best to link with Werk Supp for a great route.
Sep 22, 2012
The offwidth (5.7) above the crux finger crack makes a great continuation to this climb. I didn't find the rope drag to be very bad. I didn't have any pieces bigger than a BD #1, but I was able to get in some gear on the face and sling a chockstone in the offwidth. There were plenty of face hold inside and outside the offwidth too. Finishing MOD by climbing the offwidth corner to the top of the Bastille felt much more fulfilling to me, try it!
Jul 10, 2011
Did Werks Supp to this gem. I thought it was a blast. Good pro, fun moves. I thought it was fair to grade at 10c but could agree with 10d.
Jul 8, 2011
The last pitch is a great link up with the first two pitches of Werk Supp. It's pretty spicy near the top of the finger crack, but the gear is great so it is well protected. I followed this route a few weeks ago and wasn't too fond of it, but after leading it today, I realized how great this line actually is.
Jul 13, 2007
The crux pitch is excellent - well worth doing. It is easier if you have small fingers.
May 4, 2007
Substitute P2 of Werk Supp, and you've got a great line! Regarding P3--stemming out left toward the top as soon as you can will ease the difficulty and keep it more in the .10c range. Also, do what you can to downclimb/rappel 'softly', so as not to add to the soil erosion on the descent line.
Jul 7, 2006
TR'd the first pitch yesterday, I tried several different variations to get ready to lead this thing. I went from the left up the red rock band and from the right up a thin crack. I also tried straight up but this was too tough. However, the crux from whatever direction was moving onto the face with the left leaning crack. If this is 5.9 then its the hardest 5.9 i've ever done! I'd say the easiest variation on the first pitch goes at 10a with less than bomber protection right off the ground. With that said its still a very fun route with some cool moves.
Apr 27, 2005
Got spanked off of this climb yesterday, can anyone comment on where the 5.9 start is thats in the route description for P1? I went up the brown band to the left to the left leaning crack but couldn't get a solid piece in so I ended up bailing out. Whats the easiest variation on P1? Is there really a 5.9 variation?
Apr 15, 2005
The first and last pitches are good The last pitch takes small gear, i.e. blue Alien, #1 Metolius TCU and FCU, small stoppers. My buddy built an anchor using medium cams downhill from the top of the last pitch. The last pitch felt right at 5.10c.
May 23, 2004
I led the first two pitches of Werk Supp to the crux of MoD. This combo is stellar. P2 of Werk Supp can be combined with this crux, although that may have been my downfall, as I was pumped by the time I got to the crux. Tricky feet and crimpy hands up high. Used small nuts and Yellow and Green aliens (equiv. to BD 0.3, 0.2 I think), the latter of which held multiple lead falls before I figured out the sequence. My partner, Mike Flanagan flashed it though. The belay atop is weird. Sling a root, good BD #2, poor BD#3 (would have been better with bigger cam).
Oct 23, 2003
Does anyone climb the second pitch of this? Supposedly 5.8. Yesterday I had a harder time following the second pitch than leading the crux third pitch. Pitch 2 is a left leaning left facing dihedral with a blank and dirty left wall. Two short but strenuous sections of laybacking a wide finger crack. Above that is easier runout climbing.
Oct 20, 2003
There are actually several possibilities for the first pitch- the first comment gives directions for the 11a variation and talks about going all over- I thought the 11a just fired right up the crack- no left, no right, just up. After the first crack (11a) runs out you can still go more or less straight up (10b). For another variation, you can come in from the lower left up the brown band on well-spaced jugs and then up the left-leaning crack above that. This can be done without stepping out right to the face and instead go right up into the thin crack up high (10b/c)- it protects with small cams and can be backed-up with a so-so 2.5" piece, although that gets in the way a little of the crux hold, it can be done.Further- you can go directly up the blunt arete way out on the right all the way to the top (10b) and the chains. This way is runout.
Jun 19, 2003
Doing the last pitch of this route as a finish to Werk Supp was too fun. But I changed the grade to 5.8 A1 by hang dogging it. I was surprised and happy to find better feet than expected. It looked barren of foot placements, but that was'nt the case. I was also pleasantly surprised to learn that you didn't have to go all the way to the roof to traverse to the finish. A note on the pro at the top. I placed a #2 Camalot around the corner above the crux, then went back down and place a yellow Alien above the crux for my 2nd. For the belay, I slung a wedged rock near the cam (the cam I ran the rope through to keep a fall from being directly on me). I also slung a root down low in the wide crack that looked like it would have held fine. From this description, you can tell I didn't read about this route before doing it and had left the #4 Camalot down below for protection...
Sep 8, 2002
Pitch 3 of this route is a good way to end Werks Up, just don't leave all the big pieces you brought for pitch 2 of Werks Up at the belay like I did or your anchor will be sheit. I have pretty meaty fingers and found the last move to be pretty stout for the grade, cool pitch though..
Aug 17, 2002
Agreed, Charles, I try to remember to bring a #3 (or #3.5?) Camalot for the belay at the top of P3. I think it fits perfectly, and will make your second (and you) feel a lot better as he cranks the final moves.
Jun 28, 2002
The crux is a nice looking face with a typical Eldo-type crack. It sunk some great nuts but using micro cams would be weird - the nuts were just too good. We only used a green Alien until the top where we used a yellow as a directional. For the crux section we had a bomber #4 stopper then a #5 (the #5 held a fall). This crux might be a little harder if you have large fingers as it is a small crack - I had trouble fishing in my pinky tips in some places. Beautiful face too bad it wasn't longer than 30 feet. Casey Bernal
Jun 12, 2002
The belay anchor after the P3 crux is real funky. There is a decent root you can tie-off, but otherwise you might need big cams (at least #3 friend, but an OW piece would work in the wide crack), or you may need to reach back into the crux crack and place a couple small pieces to back up the root. Continuing up the wide crack presents heinous rope drag.
Jul 19, 2001
The 11a alternate start is highly recommended. Start about six feet to the left of the 5.9 start at a thin crack which starts about 5 feet off the ground and runs for about 8 feet. Step up and place small nuts as high as possible. Clipping directly to the nuts is recommended. Move left and up diagonally to the right to regain the top of the thin crack. From here move slightly right and continue with the remainder of the first pitch.
Jun 20, 2001
- Marie Antoinette
Yeah, the first bolt of M.G. can be reached for and clipped prior to the rising traverse here, but there are still no bolts on it. And also agreed that the RPs I placed (actually H.B. "Anchors" and B.D. "Copper-Steel") were most useful without the bolt and perhaps not needed if that is what you are going to do, but I thought at least one of them would have held. Then again, I don't fall much, and I could be wrong about that. Not falling is by far the best option and going after a lead like this at one's limit would be fool-hardy at best.
Jun 3, 2014
John Ruger and I made what we thought was the FFA sometime in the '70s. I'd had the opportunity to check the route out on rappel and made some custom small wires and wire slings to protect the route. Ruger led the first pitch in fine form on minimal gear, and I crept across the traverse with a few points of protection, including a fixed RURP. There were no bolts in place. I've never been back.
May 27, 2014
Might as well leave the rope in the pack, because it's only extra weight.
Oct 14, 2010
Agreed that this should be considered "X" rated. I reached out right to clip the first bolt on "Madame Guillotine", and didn't get any pro until the bolt ~20-30' later. Definite groundfall potential on some 5.9 terrain. I think I saw the RPs Tony was talking about, they're to the left of the line and I didn't place them because my last piece (the MG bolt) was down and to my right. Either way, the RPs didn't look great. You should probably be comfortable soloing Eldo 5.9 face climbing before getting on this one. -Scott
Apr 20, 2010
I climbed this on Friday 7/6 and got in a bomber red Alien at the top of the finger crack but didn't see any other gear till I was in the rock band where the bolt is located. The Alien protects the crux mantle as I slipped there and tested it out first hand. But after the mantle you don't want to fall since the ground is the only thing that's going to stop you at that point.
Jul 9, 2007
It might be in the range of 20' from the ground, but you can definitely fish in some small nuts/brassies near the line. I believe I got 3(?) pieces in there just before the balance-crux of the pitch. Maybe this was not immediately apparent, but there are placements that should hold a fall. My memory is faded, as we're talking a few years ago, but it seems they were in a seam on the right-hand side of the feature you are climbing and they are pumpy to place. Yeah, you could & probably would get hurt in a fall, but I don't think that it's a necessary grounder or career-ender.
Jan 28, 2002
Hmmm, each time I've led this a fixed ring-angle or bolt about thirty or forty feet up is the first piece of gear. This is on easy ground after the crux. This route feels like a VS, or have I been missing something? Anyway, a favorite, with great 5.9 moves on perfect rock. Be there ever so many climbers crawling over the Bastille, there's never a line for Marie Antionette.
Jan 26, 2002
- Model Citizen
- Nexus
Got on this route yesterday. I recommend keeping a red Alien or two for the traverse as I was sketched out on techy, lichenous feet with a piece that prob wouldn't hold a fall when my last bomber piece was 15 - 20' left on Werks Supp. I was confused when I got to the bolt on Madame Guillotine, cuz I thought you're supposed to continue right to Bastille (which looked sketchy). My partner followed this way. To offer her a little pro, I ended up lowering off the bolt, traversing a rail to the bastille and running it out maybe 60 feet so the 1st piece on that route would give some sort of top rope pro instead of forcing a penji whipper to the right on follow. A little strange, but it worked fine. I recommend just sacking up and going straight up the bolts on the 11 pitch to the typical gear anchor atop Bastille P2. Continued into Outer Space for a good, spicy, continuous 10+ / 11- route up the Bastille.
Oct 18, 2010
This is a cool way to start a "barber pole" girdle traverse of the Bastille. From Bastille Crack P2, continue on the traverse to Outer Space, but instead of heading up the well-chalked dihedral, continue right on strata to join a dihedral on XM. Take this to the Outer Space ledge, and then continue around the ledge to the West Face and summit from there. You could probably start further left still, somewhere on March of Dimes, for the longest traverse. There's not too much shade in Eldo in the summer, we've got to maximize all the climbable surface on the Bastille!
Sep 22, 2010
- Northcutt Start
So good. Stellar movement. Wish this was a full pitch!
Jun 24, 2015
I remember falling on that pin in 1983. Nice to know it's still good.
Sep 16, 2014
Delicate, thin bits at the crux, yes, but with the piton and good pro just before and after it, it totally goes. Full-on technical bits, definitely not strengthy. So being 5'3" at best, and in Eldo, I'm quite rather surprised by the 5.10"d" rating. Especially since the entire bit to the crux is smooth jammin' and restful climbing (because I'm definitely not an Eldo 5.10 leader, and I've backed off Eldo 5.9s harder than this).
Jun 6, 2014
Luckily I didn't have to test the ring piton on this climb yesterday, but the party below me took a fall on it and it held. From what I've read, that piton must have held thousands of falls over the years. Great short climb nonetheless.
Aug 25, 2013
A superb climb, but it is a little spicy cranking the crux above the 2 old, rusty pitons. Old pitons are always good until they're not.
Apr 7, 2011
Harder to onsight.... Once you fall on the pin once, you get the general idea, and it's relatively easy.
Sep 12, 2010
The grade isn't really that important to me, but for context this feels harder than the first pitch of Genesis and at least as difficult as the crux on the Northwest Corner. Fun little route.
May 26, 2010
Feels like 5.11 death if'n you've got fat fingers and can only wrench at most your tips at the crux finger lock. Oh--and decades later, that pin/ring is still holding leader falls....
Apr 29, 2010
I'd say it's all 5.7 to 5.8 except for the crux move. BTW, it CAN be done without the mystery foothold. You just have to place your left foot really high and hang from the sidepull in the dihedral with your left hand while reaching around the corner for a pinky and ring finger lock in the crack. Then grunt and send. This worked for me (but my partner swore it wouldn't 'til I did it:) Might not work if you're short. I'm 5'10"
Jul 11, 2008
The pin is still good, but doesn't really come into play if you put one of your smallest cams in the pocket a few inches to the left, the pocket isn't really essential for the move. I placed a tiny gray TCU, and it fit easily with space on either side.
Jun 27, 2008
Easiest way to get to the anchors is pitch 1 of Bastille Crack. So unless you can free solo 5.7, you can't get to the anchors without protection.
Jun 10, 2008
I had a question on the route. Can I safely get to the anchors to setup my own top rope? I'm going to be climbing solo and while I have all the logistics setup so I can do that safely (backups to all of my protection), I need to be able to get up to the top anchors for this route without any protection. Can it be done without having to go really far out of my way to get up the rock? Thanks for any help.
Jun 10, 2008
The pin is still good :-p
Apr 7, 2008
You can do a variation at the top of the climb. Rather than traverse right at the pin, continue up the ever thinning crack to the anchor. Not much protection for the leader. On a TR it felt about 5.11b.
Jan 31, 2008
Amazing climb! Great crack climbing with an exciting finish. If you can't lead it (like me), TR it from Bastille's anchors, very fun.
Aug 7, 2007
The pin at the crux traverse was still good when I fell on it last week...
May 4, 2007
In his mid 70s, Ray still is as strong as an ox. When he shakes your hand he just about breaks it!
Nov 2, 2006
I toproped this 2 days ago and pulled it right away. I'm not convinced that I could pull it off as quickly on lead but I'm gonna try! I didn't have any beta on the route and can't see why people find the move so mysterious. It was simply hard on my fingertips. Ouch!
Jun 2, 2006
What a sweet pitch. Ray Northcutt did a hell of a job. Well Kreighton, that pin on the traverse still holds a fall. I took one on it today because I'm a dumbass. It's amazing how much harder a move can be when you don't use your head and eyes to find footholds.
Apr 29, 2003
Great climb!!! Wouldn't consider it to be harder than 10+
Nov 6, 2001
Adendum to the historical note. This was the first 5.10 in Colorado, and very possibly the first in America. Not only was Northcutt sandbagged into doing it in 1959, there wasn't another 5.10 done in Colorado until well into the sixties. I do support the 10d rating. The "trick" is a tiny foot cup stemming right onto the arete, two inches below a small upside down triangular lip.
Aug 24, 2001
I find 10d to be a suitable grade, considering the first 30 feet are no harder than 8+, and the crux is so short. Even if the ring pin did pull/break, the pin below it is great and the gear options below that even better (.75 Camalot). Also, I find this pitched linked with P2 of the Bastille into Outer Space to be a good warm up to the X-M/Outer Space link-up: the difficulties are similar, only difference is the quality of gear.
Aug 1, 2001
Well, if you're wondering what Eldo 11- feels like, try this. I didn't get the route, but I can say, in case you're wondering, that the old ring pin (circa 1959??) will hold. At least, as of this morning it held two pretty good whippers from around the corner (and three smaller ones too!). Yes, I made it past the crux and around onto the 'good' slopers and came off. Nonetheless, this is a beautiful route and it is a shame the first part of it doesn't go on for another 100'.
Jul 20, 2001
I love the story of the first free ascent. Ray Northcutt, who must have been strong as an ox since he could do 100 pullups, was incorrectly told that Layton Kor had freed the direct start to the Bastille Crack. Upon learning this, Northcutt went out the next day and fired the line, only later learning that his was indeed the FFA. I think this is generally acknowledged to be a bona fide 5.11- pitch nowadays, and when you consider that it was nearly a decade later that Ament, et al. were being credited with climbing the "first" 5.11 routes in the U.S., it serves to emphasize Northcutt's achievement on this short route, as well as the powerful impact one's mindset can have on climbing performance. Free your mind...
May 31, 2001
- Northeast Corner
- Northwest Corner
I tested the gear yesterday... holds just fine :) Yesterday was my first day on NW Corner. I think the current gear is adequate. I whipped on a 0.1 BD x4. It was backed up by a bomber blue/green offset.
Aug 30, 2017
Heh. Thanks, Lenore. You just provided a lot more information that I didn't have earlier.
Jul 14, 2017
First of all, "Climberz" stated that he "heard" a story about someone ripping gear and thus assumed he took a 40' fall. So, we have no facts at all about this story or any story on this thread of someone getting seriously injured on this route resulting solely from a missing pin, not just poorly placed gear, lack of gear etc.... As of Dameeser's gear recommendation, he is simply giving a suggestion on gear he used and I TESTED. I tested this gear myself, did everything I could to rip it out, and could not. Dameeser was actually in favor of putting the bolt, I was not, so that is why I tested the bujeezus out of his placements, so that I could convince him NOT to put in an application to bolt the route. We were on the route that day volunteering for ACE to test the safety now that the pins are gone. We posted our report on ACE's facebook page, with pictures of the placements and told the community to think about the placements, the route, and to leave suggestions. Dear team, please note the gear recommendations are NOT A STANDARD ELDO RACK. Like, who on Earth has an offset blue/purple Master Cam? haha, I don't. But this route is worth buying one for..... jus'sayin.
Jul 13, 2017
Phil, You should submit an application to ACE, and the community can vote on it. I'm not saying I prefer the route one way or another. I was simply stating my experience with this route as it currently stands.
Jul 12, 2017
'looked good' Fantastic. What a sterling recommendation of gear placements. What will it take to convince you, Dameseer? Someone ripping the full pitch and breaking their ankles? Their neck? It's great that you, who have probably had to redpoint that pitch previously, now has the pitch wired and can do it without testing that gear. It's great but also irrelevant to the conversation. The bottom line is that pin was bomber when it placed. It was bomber many years later. However, it is gone now. The original character of the route is defined by bomber protection in that location. It is only a continuation of the past to continue to have bomber gear in that location. Let's put a bolt in that will last a long time. This coming from a guy who has whipped on that pin after a red c3 that 'looked good' ripped.
Jul 12, 2017
Without the pins on the 2nd pitch, the nature of this route has certainly changed. It's heads up now. I climbed it in Feb. 2017, and I placed a green Alien, an offset blue purple Master Cam, and a green c3 all right where the pin broke, just before the crux. You have to run it out to the bolt, because the pin scars won't take any gear. Sure, if the gear rips, it's going to be a big fall, just with any gear route, but the green Alien and offset Master Cam that I placed looked good.
Jul 12, 2017
I'm with Bob. Only lead this once. Whipped onto the pin. Now the pins are gone, bummer. Just heard a story of someone whipping, ripping the gear from the slippery flared pinscar, and falling past the belay... yikes...40 footer?...no thanks. Let's put the pins back in!
Jul 12, 2017
Climbed this super route again today. A couple notes - I used a yellow (0.2) BD X4 on the placement at the base of the P2 crux below the bolt. It was fine, but I would have preferred a green Alien. I linked pitch 2 & 3 and had horrendous rope drag by the time I reached the Outer Sspace ledge. Probably better to break it up. Have fun!
Aug 16, 2016
Just want to re-iterate the importance of having a smaller biner ready to go to clip the first pin on the 3rd pitch.
Jun 11, 2016
Hey Bob, I climbed the route last summer not knowing that there was ever a pin protecting the upper part of the thin crack, and it felt pretty safe. I placed several pieces just below the crack and gunned it through the crux to the bolt. As you say, placing protection in the seam would be strenuous, and honestly, I didn't see any great options. The fall would be pretty big if you came off towards the top of the crack, but I believe it would be safe. The cams below the crack are very good placements.
May 31, 2015
Did this today and found the top pin that protected the straight up thin crack version and has been there for 15 plus years is missing. I always thought it looked pretty solid, but I see in a post above that it came out when someone was cleaning the pitch. I don't doubt that it has been fallen upon many times in the past, but over the years with freeze thaw, these things can loosen. This seemed to me, at the time, that it changes the route quite a bit from when the pin was there. I am in a climbing recovery mode and not really on my game right now, but it seemed like It adds quite a bit more commitment, since that pin used to be quite high in the crack and close to waist level when doing the crux. The crack is pretty flaring in this section, I couldn't get anything good passive pro in up high in the crack, plus it's a very strenuous place to try and place anything, which was the reason why the pin was there to begin with. Getting any good gear in high in the crack, where the pin was, would be difficult if possible at all. You can get a green Alien in just above the existing pin. Seems to me it would be good if some one replaced the pin that feel out. That would return this route to its previous, more friendly character. Or maybe it's not that bad, just not what I was expecting? 08/17/16 update: Now the other pin that was there that was below the green Alien placement I mention above has broken. Part of the pin is still in the crack. I know some may not agree with me, but I am just sayin' what was once a pretty friendly and safe climb, with the pins there, has a much higher commitment and risk factor now.
Apr 29, 2015
Rock climbing at its best!
Mar 21, 2014
While cleaning the crux pitch, my partner effortlessly pulled out the pin that "protected" the crux. Luckily, great gear abounds!
Sep 10, 2012
I think I do this different than everyone else. First, the XM start is much nicer and adds another 10 pitch to the climb. On the crux, I climb over the tiny roof and get my left hand in the good slot between the two pins in the crack. Then I reach out with my left foot and toe in on a tiny edge (out left) and balance forward on that while moving my left hand high and right hand to a gaston in the crack above the pins. My left hand hits a high edge and I pop my feet up and move to better holds right under the bolt. Clip the bolt and move right. Voila
Jul 27, 2009
Good to hear Steve Levin's comment on how the 3rd pitch has become more difficult to reach the fixed pin since removal of the block. Felt scary trying to lock off on one arm, heel hook, and stretch up to the pin just to find my Superfly biner wouldn't fit through the hanger, as I was hanging above sharp loose rocks... maybe there's an easier way to do it (?).
Jun 26, 2009
P1/P2 can be linked. From atop p2, a ~65m pitch goes to the summit. I thought that the crux, if climbed straight up, then rightward (long reach to pin scar and desperate pull) felt harder than 5.11a. My partner worked right and then up (past one more pin and another new bolt) and said it felt less strenuous.
Apr 15, 2009
Is the loose rock removed? Is the route open now?
Mar 16, 2009
Instead of trending right on the last pitch into the 5.7 finish, do the Outer Face pitch (see separate route listing). This pitch keeps the grade more consistent with the rest of the route and allows you to really follow the prow from base to summit. Good fun.
Aug 11, 2004
I did this route again yesterday and the flake I mentioned above does flex if you pull on it...
Jun 1, 2003
Jeez Bill! You need to be careful! If one of your calf muscles popped out from three pitches up, it could seriously hurt someone down below.
Aug 29, 2002
I climbed this route yesterday and it is indeed a great route. On the 3rd pitch, mentioned above, I have some comments. First, the loose flakes are not where the pins are driven. These flakes seemed completely solid to me. Yes, the first pin is difficult to clip and have a small biner for this (Neutrinos work here). The loose flakes below this are a bit freaky but they can be avoided. This section is steep, but short and didn't seem too serious (if the pins hold and they seemed good to me). The start of the crux pitch is a bit disgusting right now with pigeon shit. Thankfully this only lasts for about ten feet, but it sucks having to fist jam this crack with that shit in there. I followed the crux pitch and fell off it. What worked best for me was to do the long reach left from the best hold in the crack. This hold is rather low. Then the key is to reach as far as possible on the hold out to the right. Not only is it a better hold the further you reach, but it gives you room to match your right hand on it. This match is by far the crux move on the route, but it is followed with a dicy move to get your foot on this hold and a fall from here would be exciting, though supposedly safe.
Aug 29, 2002
Now that I've (FINALLY!) led the crux without a problem, I think this is a great route. Before it was negative-five stars. If you're weak, like me, don't stint on gear for the traverse from the bolt to the belay (assuming you've taken the left variation). You can clip the second bolt at your knees with a long sling. And be sure to back up the pin at the end. The exit is not trivial!
Aug 1, 2002
Has anyone done this route in 2 pitches with a 60m. Me and my partner came close the other day. I lead the third, fourth and the easy chimney pitch above and right form the outer space ledge and came about 15 feet short form the top (walk-off ledge). My partner belayed right after the .9 undercling roof after the crux, because of drag, but still had about 30 feet or so of rope left. I, of course (on the crux pitch) did the easier variation to the right after the second pin which is a good option for someone following the pitch who wants to keep the climbing easier. I remember staying in the crack the whole way when I did this last year (following) and remember getting really pumped and hanging quite a bit trying to find some decent feet. Excellent route and mostly great 5.9 climbing except the crux 25-30 feet.
Jul 3, 2002
Your'e right "AC", it was the third pitch and it is no place to push things, I'd say this pitch is more serious than the crux........
Jun 19, 2002
That's usually done as the third pitch, and yes, be really careful on that shattered band. Have a Petzl biner handy to clip the difficult pin. Not a place to be pushing things, regardless of how one approaches the crux pitch...
Jun 13, 2002
I climbed this route yesterday and loved it. I did however get pretty sketched out on the 3rd pitch when I pulled on a large flake in the 5.9 section and it moved. The pro at this point is a pin driven behind the same flake. I found it difficult to make the move without yarding straight out on the suspect flake. I also had a hard time clipping the pin just below this one because of the way it sits in the rock, I was standing on some loose strata trying to make this clip. I found the crux 2nd pitch to be very difficult and got spit off a few times but will return to try again since the pro is very good through this section. As Steve said, the fall is clean, I went slightly left after the last pin at the crux..
Jun 13, 2002
Fun Climb. On the crux pitch, the traverse after the crux moves feels a little dicey, if you fall, you'll swing (but on a good bolt). Also, the fixed pin prior to pulling the small roof to the belay bolt is questionable at best, back it up. As with all other gear routes on the planet, small aliens are helpful. The most obvious finish to me was Outer Face, definitely worthwhile.
Jun 1, 2002
This is a really good route. The crux pitch is a classic shit or get off the pot scenario, but very do-able.
Nov 12, 2001
On the crux P2 there are several ways to go from the fixed pins in the thin crack: 1) up the thin crack, 2) a long reach right to a good hold and then a balancy move up to a bolt, or 3) downclimbing a body-length to traverse right then up. This last sounds convoluted but the leader will frequently downclimb to get a rest after clipping the pins (or just placing a bombproof small cam) anyway, and this traverse is better if you don't have a long wingspan. In any case, I launched up on this once when I wasn't climbing too well, placed the small cam (before the pins were placed by Chris Archer), traversed out to the 'mantle hold' and lobbed off. It's a surprisingly comfortable fall. ...so much so that I went up and lobbed off again. I hope this little story serves to encourage people to go up on this classic pitch with less trepidation.
Nov 5, 2001
- Outer Face
This is a great pitch. Not quite as exposed as Outer Space, less awkward and no pigeon shit. Worth doing again. The first half of the pitch is only 5.8 but fun with decent gear to be found amongst the choss. Rock gets very solid for the exit of the first overhanging bit with more decent gear just above. The most dangerous part is stepping over to place a piece in the undercling, a 5.9 friction move. Brad's beta for the big cam is spot on with the placement at waist level a few feet to the side. The crux is on amazing Bastille rock with good pro through it and after. Tried the left finish which has a couple of holds leading into it and then nothing but lichen. I ended up going right around the final overhang, better pro and easier.
Jul 21, 2007
When I climbed this, it was as a finish to the Northwest Corner. My partner had led the last pitch of the Northwest Corner and continued past the Outer Space ledge up to the ledge below the slab, and set a belay there. It made a lot of sense to do it that way. While the slab section is short, it was nice to be belayed when my belayer could see me, as it does get a little thin and a fall could result in hitting the ledge below the slab.
Jun 16, 2003
...The step-across onto the undercling flake can be protected by a 3.5 friend placed to the right in a funky heuco. The placement is hard to see at first but it's actually pretty good.
Jun 13, 2003
- Outer Space
Incredible route! One of the best in the Front Range. Comments: -I placed a #4 on every pitch (including Bastille Crack). -Definitely not R rated, maybe PG-13. Very standard pro for Eldo/Flatirons. -Bomber #2 placement underneath initial "scary" traverse on the last pitch.
Apr 10, 2017
Third pitch is basically a sport climb. Fixed pins abound! Only placed a red C3 on the traverse and a couple finger-sized pieces on some of the 5.9 sections before the juggy face. Great climbing nonetheless!
Nov 16, 2016
This route deserves all the hype it gets. First time up, we brought a single rack thinking it would be casual 5.10, and I used all my finger-sized cams early on the first pitch... made the crux dihedral very exciting climbing 15 feet above a small wire. The first time I ever got on this thing I ripped what my partner said was a super old and crucial RP fixed in the middle of the first crux of the first pitch. Sorry! First moves at the beginning of the second pitch are classic Eldo: if you do it right, it is laughably easy and if you do it wrong it is insecure and weirdly strenuous. Good on you if you can remember all of the beta from memory on the second pitch every time! I invariably have to climb up and down and up and down a couple times remembering the perfect way to do the several tricky sections of that final second pitch. Substitute Wide Country for the Bastille approach pitch with a bizarre intermediate leftward hand traverse in between (R-ish) for full value!
Sep 29, 2016
Wonderful route! I didn't find it R, maybe PG-13 going around the first bulge P1 traversing to the corner, and on the P2 upper hueco-ed runout to the top, but neither sections are near the crux 5.10b-ish grade. Pro seemed plentiful and solid otherwise. Don't let your guard down after pulling through the P2 crux. It stays pretty continuous and has a couple more interesting cruxy bits on the upper headwall.
Jun 10, 2015
Spectacular position and interesting climbing. The first pitch is insecure and sustained at 10a for a good 20-30 feet. I think the traditional "S" rating comes from this pitch, as you have to climb 8-10 feet above a small wired nut and risk a ledgefall. I followed both pitches, so take this in context, but to me the second pitch does seem to protect surprisingly well.
Jun 24, 2014
It sounds like I was off-route on pitch one. I followed the chalk into the first corner with the ripped nut. I moved out onto the left face of the corner, using the thin finger rail, before crossing back right. It went, but it was harder than 9+, and I was a bit above my last piece by the time I was on top of the block. I'd be curious to hear what people rate it.
Aug 12, 2013
CLASSIC! I have wanted to do this route since I moved to CO a couple of years ago. However, that R rating like many others has scared me away. This route definitely does not need an R rating. You can, and I did, staple the route up, hahaha! This fact does not take away from the exposure. The last pitch is amazingly exposed and awesome. I feel like the crux is short, but there is still some great moves to come to finish the route. I can't wait to run up this again, and I am psyched for anyone who has been scared off this thing to give it a shot. Great climbing.
Jul 5, 2013
Believe the hype. It's all true. I thought the undercling move was money. Lots of gear at the crux.
May 28, 2013
Super fun, super safe.
Jul 5, 2011
For the P2 crux, there's no need to undercling high by the pin. Just stay lower on better hand holds.
Jun 8, 2011
This route is junk. My partner and I did it this past weekend in near-freezing temps wearing shoes that Chinese-foot-binding specialists would have deemed torturous; we went without water, food, or warm clothing. To say it went easily would be an understatement, but frankly, a couple times my feet were so cold I could have sworn my name was Hugh Herr. All the beta is total crap. There is no exposure . . . no pumpy headwall . . . no airy traverse. There was some rather lackluster graffiti we noticed (LK who?), which I took the time to chip off and replace with a nice (and obviously more gratifying) "Eat Me" in bright orange spray paint. I always huff the orange stuff on routes. It just gets me there faster . . . .
Apr 5, 2010
This is my favorite route to date! For anyone who loves exposure, you have to do this climb. Pitch 3 was AMAZING!
Sep 27, 2009
Absolutely wonderful route! Just loved everything about it - every move is great.
Jun 24, 2009
Definitely in Eldo's Top 10, no top five routes. Everything about it is great! Great gear, great positioning, vertical, comfortable belay ledges, exposure, and so on....
Jun 22, 2009
I agree with Tony both that the top and bottom pitches are about equivalent in difficulty, and that the gear placements do not warrant an S rating. I will say however that the gear on the P2 traverse is strenuous to place. I was only able to get a small nut and a yellow tcu before clipping the pin and giving it a go around the corner. Once I got around the corner, I was expecting the climb to let up a bit, but a number of 5.9 moves awaited me before I found a substantial rest stance. Great climb!
Jun 19, 2009
A wonderful route as advertised. It protects *very* well.... and most definitely does NOT warrant an R rating. You can place gear anywhere you want it (perhaps with the exception of the last 30 feet up the huecos on P2, but the climbing is easy). I thought P1 contained the crux, and the stemming felt about 10a/b (and a touch easier than Over The Hill). If there was a pin at the base of the stemming (in the chimney like alcove), it is gone now.... but a red alien fit nicely. The P2 "crux" felt about 10a as well, but the entire second pitch is definitely a journey. I placed the EXACT gear Tony B lists above, and they are all bomber. There are plenty of rests up the final headwall, but the various moves are engaging and sometimes a bit tricky. I had pretty bad rope drag, despite judicious use of slings, so I'm not sure how I could have avoided it. The pitch is spectacular, but the rope drag is a big bummer. A standard rack (nuts and two sets of cams from tiny to #3 camalot) is fine. Lots of slings. Edit: I just looked at a photo and saw one of someone belaying under the "end" of the traverse, and that looks like the ticket to avoiding rope drag. My belay was towards the beginning of the traverse. YMMV
May 20, 2009
The pin protecting the chimney section at the beginning of the final dihedral on P1 is gone (or at least I could've sworn it was there before). You can get in a #4 BD nut and a pink tricam (neither of which felt bomber) before taking off. Fortunately, you can get gear soon after. The high traverse on P1 is significantly harder than going low and contains the (5.10c) crux move of the whole climb IMHO.
May 5, 2009
I climbed this today for the first time and have to agree with everyone that it is one of Eldo's best. I really don't climb S or R routes and the only reason I did was because of the comments here, so thanks everyone. I will agree the first pitch of Outer Space is the more difficult of the two. If I relate the dihedral to another classic, Over The Hill, the Outer Space dihedral is easier but still a handful and the exposure is no comparison. I am also comforted on OTH by all those pins...or is it discomforted on this one by the need to think a bit more. I'll chime a 10a. Pitch 2 was relatively trivial, protects well, and is spectacular. I did not find a move harder than 5.9 on the pitch. With plenty of feet on the traverse and easy climbing around the corner I couldn't even tell where the crux was supposed to be. I thought it might have been a less secure leftward traverse near the end of the climb? Overall, a fantastic climb with absolutely no R sections and plenty of rests if you want them.
Sep 27, 2008
I protected the opening moves of the last pitch with a red Metolius Astro nut, a green Alien, then clipped the pin. The remaining pitch was incredible and steep with multiple 5.9+ sections. There is a small, sloping ledge about half way through the pitch that offers a chance to 'rest', though I found it difficult to rest there. The exposure, steepness, and awesome views of the canyon took my breath away.
Aug 16, 2008
Followed Shane Zentner today. Agree it's superb; agree the 1st pitch is trickier than the 2nd. But I think the 2nd still is the harder of the two and the crux was the marathon after the undercling/corner, which only felt about 10(a). The miles of 9+ pack a 10b/c pump factor, IMO. Good lead, Shane! One other thought: On approach, it's not hard to stretch the Bastille pitches across the traverse, past the little pillar, and belay directly under the dihedral. You can sling a couple flakes and get some small gear at the belay.
Aug 9, 2008
Climbed this route in the afternoon on 9/23 for the 2nd time. The pin is indeed missing from the start of the corner on the first pitch. I was surprised to not find in there as I had remembered being able to clip it from the no-hands, shoulder-bar rest. I am only 5'8" and was able to reach high and place a great wire to protect the crux move getting established in the corner. No need to replace the pin in my opinion.
Sep 24, 2007
I climbed Outer Space again on 9/15. I hadn't seen the above comment regarding the pin, so I was surprised when it wasn't there. I was able to place a good nut AND a good yellow Alien within a foot of each other where the pin used to be, so I don't think it need to be replaced. I will bring this up with the Eldo FHRC.
Sep 18, 2007
Alright, I have to admit to it and fess up. I pulled the first piton thru the crux dihedral on the first pitch. How one might ask? I would love to tell a story of some great whip I took on this piton but actually, (sigh), I fell following this pitch mantling onto the sloping ledge off that horrible rail that looks great. Yes, shameful I know. I didn't play around with it, but I think you can get a small Alien where the piton once was. Thanks to John for hauling me up this beauty and making it look casual.
Aug 11, 2007
Not 10c, not runout but very good and worth checking it out, maybe 10a/b.
Nov 11, 2006
Such a sweet route! I don't consider myself a solid 10c climber and pulled this clean on lead after following it once. Not runout. If you are even close to the grade, Do This Route!
Aug 18, 2006
I climbed this last night for the 3rd time and just wanted to add a more recent comment. Like everyone has said, what a great route. p1 - Bastille Crack to ledge p2 - Chalked-up dihedral. There are three pins you can clip in this dihedral. 2 seemed bomber to me and the other one was decent. The hard part is getting situated in the dihedral. Once in the dihedral you can stem your way up using little hands. p3- Like everyone else has said, this is not run out at all. After pulling the 10c move, the upper part is pumpy and tricky. Counting the pin at the crux, there are three pins on this pitch as well. Only the last one looked like it belonged in the Eldo hall of fame.
Jun 30, 2006
Stellar route! Followed 2 & 3 today and found it to be every bit as good as advertised. On P2 the first hard move up and over the blocky prow is made easier using the overhead rail as the crack up and over peters out. This rail is slopey in the middle, but pretty good low and higher up...there is a fixed stopper at the top of the crack. The next hard move for me was out from under a pod like stance at the start of the dihedral below the pin, using bomber underclings and the crack out on the left face to begin the business of stemming. This move is 10b and leads to sinker fingers above and good holds up high to the ramp. Suppose if you don't like big exposure the start of P3 might scare you, but the holds are not too bad working up & over to the undercling crux move. Mostly smearing for the feet here, there are a few small edges, and a pretty good jug around the corner to start the business on this pitch. Pretty sustained (9) moves, with lots of exposure, bring you to a tricky, somewhat greasy, (8+) move up and left past the last pin. Juggy huecos to the top ended my new favorite climb on the Bastille.
Oct 1, 2005
I just thought I would throw out the suggestion to start with the Northcutt start and it makes for three great .10 pitches in a row.
Sep 2, 2005
Such a good route. Great after work elevetion gain. S rating is really pretty mild.
Aug 31, 2004
I've heard that when this and a lot of other Eldo "S" routes were put up, Aliens and small nuts had not yet been invented, hence the rating. I agree the crux of the 1st pitch felt harder than the second. Of course I lead P1 and got a ride on P2. For me, the crux on P2 was getting into the undercling, once you are there,pulling around the corner was no problem. The pitch is definitely not over though with several 5.9 moves left but all well protected with good feet everywhere. Enjoy. Best route I've done in Eldo!!!
Aug 31, 2004
GEAR beta: On the headwall pitch, bring a Yellow Camalot for the start of the traverse off the belay ledge. You can reach way up and right to plug in the yellow camalot before beginning the traverse section. Also on the headwall pitch, bring lots (10 to 12) of extra runners to minimize rope drag. Finally, be SURE to look down at the Bastille Crack as soon as you finish the opening traverse. It looks like a sidewalk, and makes the whole adventure fun.
Oct 4, 2003
I followed this climb for the 2nd time yesterday and was reminded of how beautiful the line truly is. The 1st pitch has wonderful stemming and finger locks and a very spicy second pitch with great exposure!One of my favorite in the canyon.
Jun 18, 2003
There's also a billion Lowe-ball placements if you've got 'em, like every route in Eldo. There are precious few "real" runouts left in Eldo with modern gear.
May 8, 2003
Just climbed this line again (4th time) after 3 years away from it. For the "s" pitch I placed a pretty solid #4 BD stopper just before leaving the belay (while still standing on the ledge). After 2 moves I put in a PERFECT green Alien up and right a few feet from the stopper. 2 moves later there was a yellow alien placement staring me in the face in a left hand sidepull... then the #8 stopper to the left, then up to the TCU placement beside the pin and the pin. Then around the corner to tons of gear opportunity. In short, the climb is not S at all, unless S stands for "S"ewn-up. As for the difficulty, I too find the dihedral pitch more technical than the upper pitch and would give both 10a/b. Staying low on the upper pitch is the key, reaching the undercling by the pin from below instead of traversing over to it.
May 8, 2003
A fantastic route!! Definitely three stars! As mentioned above, I could not see how it got an S rating. The climb, and the crux, eats up stoppers. Even the somewhat dubious looking fixed pin at the crux (pounded straight up into a slightly flaring crack) could be backed up with a large tcu, although I'm sure that pin has held its share of falls. As for the short bulge that can be avoided on the first pitch, I would be curious to know whether it was on the original line of ascent or not. It offers another short section of technical 5.10- moves, is well protected and fun, but can be easily avoided by climbing down and around it. Booty/Fixed Gear Alert! One of the stoppers just before the crux on the second (10c) pitch, was so good that my partner was unable to clean it. He could get the nut to move in the crack, but couldn't get it out of the rock. He said his last attempt to free it left it pointing upwards, but believed if a leader clipped a draw on it and tugged downwards, it would seat well into its original position. I hope that it is removable or at least becomes a good fixed piece. If someone posts that it is neither, I will go back up on a fixed line and see if I can get it out so that it doesn't detract from this classic line.
Sep 25, 2002
Great route! I too struggled with rope drag at the top of the last pitch even though I put long runners on everything below the roof. When I got home I looked in my old Erickson guidebook and he splits the last pitch into two, adding a belay after the roof undercling and initial steep flake (40' off ledge.) Next time I do the route I'll try it this way.
Jun 12, 2002
This route is absolutely excellent. I recommend it to anyone interested in getting some big air out under your feet. I agree with everyone else's comments that the first pitch of Outer Space is tougher than the the second. That dihedral is definitely more technical and devious than the one hard move to clip the pin in the undercling on the airy final pitch. Also, I second that motion to go around toward the right on the mini-pillar from the belay atop the first pitch of the Bastille Crack instead of trying to go up and over it. This is one of the best I've done so far (which isn't saying much but), launch yourself into Outer Space! The cracks and huecos toward the very top are so fun! Take care for rope drag as you are topping out.
May 6, 2002
Be careful not to go up the thin crack on the first Outer Space pitch to get into the dihedral. There is/was a ripped wired nut in this crack. Stay right and do a blind traverse to get into the dihedral. The last pitch is airy, well-protected (small alliens, nuts) and perhaps even a little easier then other Eldo 10c's.
Dec 31, 2001
I led the whole thing barefoot many years ago, does that mean I'm a real stud? Anyway, the picture actually shows the upper part of Wide Country to the right of the dihedral.
Oct 15, 2001
Linking these two pitches with the first three of X-M makes an excellent and airy route. With three pitches at 10c and two at 10b, and four of them with s or vs grades, it makes for an aesthetic and rewarding line straight up the middle of the Bastille.
Jul 23, 2001
The final pitch is most definitely NOT S. I place three good nuts before clipping the pin in the undercling. And thinking the S section might be coming later I sewed up the rest of the route. I also believe the first pitch (10b) to be more technical than the last pitch (rated 10c). The last pitch is long and somewhat pumpy, but probably more like 10a/b than 10c.
May 30, 2001
I found the crux pitch to be easier than the dihedral. Knock off about 3 letter grades if you're tall.
Jan 1, 2001
This route is [unbelievable]. It is [definitely] the best route I have climbed at Eldo. [Rossiter's] book gives it and "s" rating, and this can be interpreted as "a 15 foot traverse to the left, that if [your] pro pulled during a fall, or while trying to clip the pin, would [deposit] you [...10 feet up?] onto a ledge." This one gets an "s" for the same reason Rosy Crucifixion does, a fall at the beginning might be interesting. I just wanted to clarify this [because] you never know. If you have looked at this route all spring, like I have, and not gone up and done it yet, go for it, its not too dangerous. The airy positions are killer, too.
Jan 1, 2001
- Prow Finish
- Saturnalia
Three stars for sure! Pumpy, overhanging climbing to airy arete slapping and crimping; how could this not be three stars? Seems 90% of the loose rock has been taken off by past parties. We too found that square hold (on the traverse to the first bolt) to be loose, so we took it home. Thanks to all who cleaned the route. After getting to the first bolt, I took a huge sigh of relief, and was pleased to find no more long/dangerous runouts. I was also happy to be very tall while clipping the second bolt! All and all, great climb.
Jul 13, 2011
Saturnalia is certainly a worthwhile route to finish on. Pumpy, rough rock and a thin, balancy sequence at the end make it all the more satisfying. But there is loose rock up there, and it isn't as good or sustained as some other climbing on other, three-star routes. I give it two stars for quality. Rumor has it that Charlie climbed just about everything in Eldorado Canyon. Mentioning this isn't an attempt to set a standard by which first ascents are graded. Merely a way of keeping people honest. Giving historical value. When it comes to trad first ascents in Eldorado, one can't always be sure that someone hasn't come before. At the time, when the name was proposed there was a lot of speculation about who might have first climbed the rock that became the route known as Saturnalia before Michael and Steve got their fair due. It only adds interest that CF might have gone up there before anyone else. Who knows? Maybe Duncan soloed the thing.
Apr 5, 2007
Regarding the first ascent. I did not know that there was new first ascent standard in Eldorado, the "rumor has it" standard. If we start with that, we will never end. Steve, I think it is best to do your fact checking correctly and explain who, what, when, and where rather than starting a cascade of dubious revisions. Now I am concerned to think that you might be writing a guidebook to this area. The "rumor has it" guidebook is bound to be an interesting one.... Saturnalia, together with Innerspace, is one of the better pitches in the Bastille. It is a great final pitch to many of the cool three pitch link-ups that the Bastille has to offer. It provides a great alternative to the often crowded and overclimbed Outerspace. I like very much the fact that it provides a bit of pumpy climbing over the roof, as well as a techincal, thin crux higher up. If finished via Lost in Space, it is just a great pitch. As for loose rock, I don't think there is any at all, but of course that is a subjective appreciation. I think it deserves 3 stars. rolo
Apr 4, 2007
Clipping the 1st bolt can also be done solidly from a big side-pull on the left and this is better for a shorter person. Or anyone really. Yes, traversing lower past those 1st nuts is better - I didn't use that "loose" hold for much more than balance but if someone wants to pry it off then go for it. Yes, I did rap down to clean what I could, and did hang slings .... from RPs. Mea Culpa. If Charlie did lead it, then he must have used some other Very Loose Holds that were balanced up there...not to mention front-pointing on the lichen I cleaned. Lichen grows very slowly so maybe it was Lewis & Clark who did the FA.... This is a serious route, but not 'very serious'. It's not "for the masses" If you're not up for it then fine, but don't whine about it.
Mar 1, 2007
One star, at most. Loose, yes. Spice, yes. Didn't pass mustard on public nor FHRC vote first time through. Persistence on the part of the retro-bolter did push it through the second time.
Jul 22, 2003
Following Bryson on this route, I too encounter loose rock below the first bolt. Use extreme caution in this area, as it is very likey that any rock knocked off will land on the road below. And there is plenty of loose rock in this section. I broke off a foot hold yesterday, which scared the hell out of me, but did sail clear of people on XM. Yikes!! I think staying low and traversing out left after putting (or cleaning) gear in the crack will help you avoid the worst section of rock, though this may add to the difficulty.
Jul 22, 2003
Seconding Tony on this, I damaged a hold below the first bolt (see the first picture below). It's loose but I couldn't totally pull it off. If you elect to run it out to the first bolt, this hold could be a nasty surprise. If you place the nuts shown in the picture, you will be fine. If you think you can remove the baseball-sized loose part safely, please do. It will not drastically affect the difficulty of the climb.
Jul 21, 2003
- Shatek's Ramp-age
I could be wrong, but I do not remember seeing a piton when I climbed this. Nevertheless, it protected well.
Jun 27, 2010
Sorry, I meant "third pitch variation." As a young teen, the third pitch intimidated me for a few years, so I would sneak around the corner to the left and climb the awkward dihedral/slot with the fixed pin.
Jun 20, 2005
There is also a ramp system to up or down-climb between the top of P1 of WerkSupp & top of P2 of Bastille Crack. This is distinct from the above described line. The down-climb is useful if you want to bail (rain, hail, whatever) & don't want to leave gear & don't trust a single old pin. It's much easier than 5.8.
Jan 22, 2005
- Space
That's fast action! Chip was pointing that route out to me, and it seemed almost like the next day you guys did it. Ya Big Studs!
Jun 5, 2012
Nice work, lads! Looks like a terrific addition.
Jun 1, 2012
Great find, Chip! Thanks! Super fun climb, exciting and safe....
Jun 1, 2012
- Space Invaders
This is a great finish to Outer Space.
Sep 15, 2010
- Spice Tour, The
I completely agree with Cedar about the runout on Inner Space being stout, technical, insecure, and improbable. The rock has a good bit of lichen on it which is pretty disconcerting on some of those small flakey feat. I agree that it's a substantial step up from routes like Jules Verne and Pansee Savage. This is one hell of a 3 pitch link-up!!! One of Eldo's best if you're up to the task. Also, I'm seeing some pictures and descriptions that say to load up the big flake with gear before the runout. I thought the flake seemed to expand dangerously; however, I found a couple of bomber TCUs a few feet down and right that seemed much safer to me in the event of a monster whip.
May 14, 2017
Wow! Inner Space is really what it comes down to. I got the onsight yesterday after fearing it for so many years. It has quite a reputation. My thoughts on it: there are two scary parts 1) from the belay to the Northwest Corner 2) from that flake to the 5.11 crux. This route is a big step up from Jules Verne. There was a lot of lichen, but it never really got in the way. If you're confident and know you WON'T fall on 5.10, then go for it. In the end, it wasn't as bad as I envisioned, but it's still a serious pitch. Where falling on some parts would land you in the hospital, or worse. Great climb!
Oct 2, 2016
Cedar, Nicely done! John Baldwin and myself watched you lead the Inner Space part of this the other day. We were the clowns yellin' at ya to go right when you were lookin' left. Having led Inner Space 4 times myself, it was great to watch someone else on it from across the creek. Puts the run out into a new perspective. As you know from the point of no return till you "finally" get to the bomber stopper placement is a defining moment in yer Eldoexperience as in "thank God or whoever"! Rarely gets done...imagine that. John Baldwin always reminds me that Jeff Lowe wanted to call it the Giraffe's Neck, as in ya gotta stick your neck out! Nice send. Peace. Steve Sangdahl P.S. We call the Intercepter to Innerspace link up Interspace.
Oct 27, 2014
Well.... That was exciting. The Spice Tour is a great way to feel born again through rock climbing. Interceptor is on the soft side of R but really really good and perhaps the difficulty crux. Saturnalia will feel like piss by the time you get there. Really the crux of this worthy linkup comes down to the aptly named Inner Space pitch. I was definitely finding my inner happy place up there. I would call Inner Space R/X serious and a big step up from Jules Verne. If you came off at the end of the run out... well... I can't imagine anything good would come of it. Maybe after your 70 foot slab slapping whipper you'd be fine, but if I were a betting man, I'd put money on broken sticks. I actually found the "10a" runout to be quite stout, technical, insecure and improbable, and the rock is a little friable, but if you are solid on 5.11 and have a cool head, it should be fine. A good attention to detail is imperative. If you read this in the next couple days... now is a good time to go do it, because with chalk on the route, I think it's a little less daunting. Be prepared to clean lichen off the foot holds right at the point of no return crux about 15 or so feet into the run out! By the time you get the bomber pro before the "crux", you will not be afraid to climb 5.11 with gear at your feet! I'm truly in awe that Jeff Lowe and John Baldwin, who I believe did the FA of Inner Space, had such big balls and technical climbing ability back in 1978. Those guys were Heroes. A route like this would be pretty forgettable with two bolts in the run out, but as it stands... I think you'd be hard pressed to forget this one. Climbs like this remind me why I love climbing. Get on it, it's awesome!
Oct 26, 2014
An outstanding link-up! Climbed this today with my bro Joe. I got Interceptor and Saturnalia, he sent Inner Space. Interceptor is such a classic pitch. Just keep it together, the run-out is not too bad. I followed Inner Space after this. This is one fantastic journey up the Bastille. It wasn't quite as desperate as I thought it would be. All the really big run-outs are on moderate rock. I think the spookiest part on lead would be getting over to the top of the Northwest Corner. There is absolutely no pro in this section. The crux is protected with bomber pro at your feet. Saturnalia was a good pitch. It sorta wanders a bit. Totally out of character with the previous two pitches. All in all, The Spice Tour is great climb.
May 27, 2006
Wow! Got on this wild route recently and we completed the first 2 pitches (ran out of time to do the 3rd). Although I got scared and backed off the 1st pitch, it wasn't too bad in retrospect, with pro at your feet during the crux moves (the green Alien), then much easier moves to the flake pro mentioned above. The next pitch (Inner Space) was much scarier, real glad I wasn't leading that! The crux felt very technical, even for Eldo, and I would rate it 11c.... at least the pro there was reasonable, pretty good gear at your feet as you start the hard moves. The dihedral above that was very funky and awkward and felt like solid 5.10, but the pro here was decent. The quality is absolutely excellent throughout, funny how some of the best routes in Eldo are the spiciest!
Jun 23, 2004
- Werk Supp
Thanks, Gregger for the chains, much appreciated. Just a short PSA in regard to rappelling Werk Supp: if rapping the route with a 70m rope or double ropes from the top of pitch 1 (i.e. in one rap), please be sure to rap directly over the top of the March of Dimes buttress. You will rap directly over the chains on top of pitch 1 of MoD. Do NOT descend via the gully between MoD and Werk Supp. That gully is stacked with large, loose boulders. When dislodged, those boulders will find their way to the base of Werk Supp (where there is often a belayer) and/or into the road. We were unfortunate enough to be at the base when a climber chose the loose gully and kicked loose a microwave size block, which triggered several other large rocks to tumble down to the road. No one was hurt, but it was a good reminder: 1) to always wear a helmet everywhere in eldo 2) that even 2 minutes from the car, there are loose rocks on routes/raps that see enormous traffic. Please stay out of that gully! Kyle
Jun 8, 2015
Replaced the Werk Supp anchor early this morning. It had 3/8" x 3" carbon stud bolts that were getting rusty. Now it has 1/2" x 4.75" SS 5-piece bolts with SS hangers. I put the old chains back on, but plan to upgrade those to SS also soon.
Jun 14, 2014
Excellent route! Did the second pitch on the second time, had to come back and give it another go, well worth it! No need for cams bigger then Camalot #3 on second pitch, first pitch ate small gear like crazy.
Jun 13, 2014
P2 is a little slice of Vedauwoo in Eldo, super rad hand jams all the way, some big, some small, I think the crux could be almost anywhere on the route depending on your hand size.
Apr 9, 2014
As per the above: to rap to the ground from there, yes, you need a 70m. However, you can rap the route with a 50m if you go to the station to climber's left on top of the March Of Dimes pillar as described in the topos and this route description.
Apr 7, 2014
I did just the first pitch today as a last climb before heading home. I loved the climbing! I wish I had brought more small gear (BD #0-0.2) as the finger crack at the top of the climb was more challenging with just placing nuts. I used up my smaller gear lower on the climb. Although a #4 is not necessary, I did place one toward the bottom of the climb. I rapped from the bolts using a 70 meter rope and got to the ground with very little to spare. You NEED a 70m to do this!
Apr 6, 2014
P2 was my first Eldo 5.9 lead. Onsight. Nice hand jams but tricky insecure feet and positioning. Stay high on the walk of to the east. We almost got lured down too soon.
May 15, 2013
On March 25, 2012, we apparently left a red Alien on or at the bottom of the first pitch of Werk Supp. Reward and good karma for its safe return! Email jyatesatwork@yahoo.com.
Mar 26, 2012
Grade II? Someone want to explain?
Oct 28, 2011
About the rating: Pat Ament, Rossiter, and Levin's guides all give P2 a 9+ (Ament did the FA). To the extent that any climb actually has a rating, Werk Supp does, and it's 9+, not 9. If it feels easier than 9+, congratulations, you're climbing well.
Jul 25, 2010
The first time I did this route was in 1979, back then I could not afford cams. Didn't trust them either, they were new and looked unreliable. Hey, I was climbing trad, my shoes were PAs if anybody remembers them. P1 was wonderful, sustianed but not too difficult. P2 was a bit more commited. I was able to get a #8 hex in at the "slot". I did not trust it but continued on anyway. Ten feet above it I peeled! Falling head over heels backwards, chalk raining down like snow. My belayer held me two feet above the belay ledge! The #8 hex held!! I could not believe it! So I smoked a ciggarette to calm the nerves and made it on my second try. I love that climb!
May 8, 2010
Thanks, David. That's all I needed to go fire it up this morning. I led both pitches. I was able to get some "okay" gear in before the pin. The pin is not really needed, but I clipped it anyway. Super fun and intricate moves in the finger crack. I ended up peeling off on P2 after pulling out of the funky pod half way up the pitch. Then finished it off clean. I would recommend 2 #1 Camalots for the P2 hand crack. Also bring a #2, a #3 and leave the #4 at home (or use it for the P2 belay). What a classic route! Get on it if you have not yet :) Drew
Apr 14, 2010
Drew, in my experience (have led pitch 1 3 times that I can think of), I've found the climbing up to the finger crack to be much easier than the rest of the route, maybe 5.7, climbing is on big holds. Much of the initial section is expando rock and some people might not bother to place gear but there are some decent possibilities. I seem to remember a good pin or 2 that also inspired some confidence. The pro at the crux is bomber and I don't feel the R rating is warranted. Just my 2 cents though.
Apr 13, 2010
Beta question for P1. Whenever I see people leading this, their first piece appears to be about 20-25 feet above the ground. Why? Is there no gear before then? Is the rock just not worth placing gear in? If so, then what would you rate the difficulty of the first section of the climb before the finger crack. Despite the fact there is no "R" rating on this climb, I am leary to lead it because I am not a fan of routes that have no pro near the ground. Although that is a common characteristic for Eldo routes :-). Any thoughts would be welcome. Regards, Drew
Apr 13, 2010
If anyone finds the black shades I left at the base of the climb (6pm Saturday, Oct. 16th), can I offer you a 6-pack of refreshments?
Oct 17, 2009
I just don't know. I floated the crux pitch of Handcracker Direct, which is supposedly a 5.10a handcrack. Then I jump on the second pitch of this, a 5.9ish hand crack. Which one should be harder? I guess I really suck at crack climbing....sometimes.
Sep 26, 2009
I just did pitch 1 for an end of the day climb and found it to be fantastic and varied. I was in the midst of it, 90 feet up, and remembered why I love rock climbing so much. It is thoughtful, balancy, and simply sweet! Or maybe I just love finger cracks. Eats up nut placements.
Aug 15, 2009
Fantastic; in all honestly the first pitch my be my favorite trad line anywhere; fantastic, varied, and sustained climbing makes this a classic moderate. Just when things start to feel a little hairy one of the magic "wrap your hand around" flakes of a bomber finger jam appears. Eat's TCUs and C3s for breakfast. We found with a 70m rope and some rope management [read: long slings] you can get to the top of the Bastille via the end of Bastille Crack from the Werk Supp PI anchors in one pitch, which makes for a great afternoon jaunt if time is scarce.
Sep 28, 2008
I followed pitch one and I thought it was quite interesting and somewhat typical Eldo style with traversing and steep face with the occasional crack feature for gear and what not. Pretty sporty; sustained and a bit bold, I don't think I would have enjoyed to lead it. P2. Was mine and I was a bit nervous with anticipation of the awkward looking crack but also eager to get on it and learn something. I got up and placed 2 cams and got pretty pumped trying to see how to get up the akward section onto the stance in the first pod, I came off and grabbed a cam to keep from decking as my belayer was back at the chains of pitch 1 and there would have been a bit of rope stretch. I lowered to the ground and started again after looking it over a bit. I got into the first rest stance in the pod and got some more gear, and kept working the hands/ wide hands crack through the pods getting gear and an awkward rest occasionally. I plugged a #1 near what seemed the crux and ran it out to the ledge with the tree on the far side. Both I and my partner found this to be stout for the grade and definitely sustained for the short pitch it was. The thing seems to want to spit you out the whole time, and there isn't much out side of the crack to keep you in so you just have to work the jambs, keep moving and keep an eye out for holds on either side of the crack when the going gets rough. We took MOD for the third pitch and both had some trouble with it seems stout to me, bout as hard as Northcutt Start on BC for sure IMO. We continued up the OW directly above and over to the last pitch of BC, good fun! Pretty sure I used my 3.5 and #4 on p2. and my partner wanted the #4 on the OW above the finger crack on MOD.
Jun 30, 2008
This would be a **** route if there was some kind of fixed anchor either atop the 10c March o' Dimes pitch, or above p2 of Werksupp. Summitting above here takes a lot of time and walking, the "East Face" isn't fun to descend either.
Apr 25, 2008
**** 4 stars all the way.....how could anyone rate this 2 stars.
Feb 2, 2008
If you're going to do the first pitch, then you have to do the second. That's where all the excitement is! Getting swallowed up by that fat crack is great!
Jun 30, 2007
This is a great climb and well worth doing. Pitch one and two could not be more different. Pitch one is thoughtful and balence-oriented while pitch two is deep-set slammer hands. For what it's worth, P2 [reminded] me of [Pool of Blood]. For the walk-off: head east down a ramp system, you'll see a tree with slings-don't go there, instead climb up a short corner and then down a very easy ramp to the talus.
Sep 12, 2005
My .02 cents - p1 is great fun, a perfect challenge for anyone comfortable on 5.8ish routes. Several thought provoking sections between good stances. I was glad to have lots of small gear, I used all of it. First 30' or so has kinda sketchy pro, after that it's solid.
May 6, 2005
Named by Ament because the climb works up (i.e. wers up) in difficulty the higher you go. Find an old copy of High Over Boulder to read Pat's comments.
Apr 29, 2005
Does any one know what "[Werk Supp]" means or if its a different language? In my German to English dictionary (werk = action) and (Suppe = soup broth)....."action broth"?
Apr 28, 2005
Larry, I think the ramp from the top of P1 on Werk Supp to the P2/P3 pitch of the Bastille Crack goes at 5.8ish if you stay to the left its 5.6ish with crappy pro if you go to the right its 5.8ish with better pro and an old pin at the crux; I think the route is called "Shatek's Ramp-age."
Apr 26, 2005
Since a rappel on a 60m rope will get you down within 10 feet of the ground with stretch, it's obviously not at 140-150 ft. pitch. I'd put it closer to 105 ft. Vertical distances are usually overestimated.
Apr 13, 2005
Larry, I've done this a few times and it links up fine. There is one tricky and awkward 5.8ish spot with poor pro (an old pin, I think) and quite a bit of loose rock but it goes... The second pitch of WS gears up very well and is short. Go for it... when you're ready...
Jan 1, 2005
Sure. From the top of WS pitch one (the lovely finger crack), cruise easily up the ramp to the right and enter a short but awkward dihedral (5.6; may be a fixed pin here). You will arrive at the belay on top of BC pitch 3.
Jan 1, 2005
Climbed P1 today -- I thought the 5.8+ rating was right on. Beautiful sustained climbing with plenty of gear placement opportunities. We took 2 full sets of aliens and I used everyone along with 13 runners and various other pieces. Big gear is good to use in the first 30 feet but not a requirement. Also, a 60m rope for rappel gets you to about 10 feet off the ground to an easy down climb. I placed a perfect red Alien right in the crux but also found that I needed that hand hold. Next time I would use a stopper or something. Great route!
Dec 31, 2004
I vote (it's that time of year) for 5.9 on the second pitch. It's short but good stances to place pro above the offwidth are not there, and the climbing is sustained.
Oct 5, 2004
I agree with Tim. Stellar first pitch! No approach, great climbing with sweet finger locks, and a quick rap off.
Sep 29, 2004
I got to lead P1 for the first time today and found it to be exceptionally good. I ran out of the right size nuts towards the top. I can't honestly say what else could make this pitch better! It certainly deserves 3 stars.
Sep 8, 2004
I recently climbed Werk Supp again. This time around I used left hand crimpers on the face and jammed with my right hand in the crack (laybacking will make you barndoor). Look for the rail near top left of the crack. Led the last pitch of March of Dimes from here-medium stopper, blue Alien, green Alien, blue Metolius.
Jul 22, 2004
Great moves until getting to bolt anchor (following) loose flakes and a little polished for first 40' or so.
May 10, 2004
Goodness...Concerning the gear on this route, I recommended WAY too much. Doubling cams from green Aliens-2" is insane considering the weight you're carrying. Remember that I set enough gear for AID. This is when double ropes are recommended, NOT for a free ascent. This is not an Indian Creek varying crack, so don't gear up for that. Just bring a standard Eldo rack (but include some small cams and hexes. They will help). Thanks Leo. ~Wm
Nov 12, 2003
Trail another rope or use it for double rope gear (better idea) and you can rap to the ground from the chains ten feet east of the ledge you end up on after pitch one. Was going to aid this today but we had a nice break in the cold snap and it went On Sight free on lead. I placed enough gear for aid (double ropes) should my girlfriend need it, but she toughed it out. REALLY classic first pitch. I'd do this three or four times a year for a quick run up a fun yet challenging route, especially if the Bast. Crack is a traffic jam. Easy climbing lets you top off the beast after pitch one anyway... For gear, double up on nuts #7-9, double green Aliens-2" cams. For an anchor on a direct line with the first pitch, bring a pink tri-cam #9 BD stopper, and appropriate cams. You can set up an equalized anchor in the wide finger slot just after the cruxy overhang with accompanying finger-tip crack. If you're bailing after this, belay down to the chains and rap directly to the base. OR simul the rest of the broken ramp to top out the rock quickly. Can't wait for the warm weather!~Wm
Nov 8, 2003
I led this route and finished with March of Dimes yesterday. All 3 pitches are stellar, in my opinion. P1: sustained 8+, very enjoyable, a little runout after the first piece. Bring plenty of small-medium cams (i.e. 0.2-0.75 Camalot equivs.) and larger nuts. Definitely belay from below P2, rather than at the bolt anchor. P2: I loved this pitch and felt more secure on it than on P1. I don't know what the + is doing in the rating. Maybe it is hand-size dependent, but I didn't find this particularly hard, and it is short. There are good feet on the right face and in the crack and the hand jams are bomber. I would say 5.9, no plus. It is easy to continue onto March of Dimes without stopping for a belay, although this may have been my downfall (I fell on the 10c crux) as I was kind of pumped after the first two pitches. May have benifitted from a rest before tackling MoD. Gear: I placed Camalots 4, 0.5, 3, 2, 1 BUT I think a 4 is unnecessary and a 3 would have been better in that placement. P3: (March of Dimes) Hard, for me anyway. Tricky feet and crimpy hands up high. Used small nuts and Yellow and Green aliens (equiv. to BD 0.3, 0.2 I think), the latter of which held multiple lead falls before I figured out the sequence. My partner, Mike Flanagan flashed it though. The belay atop is weird. Sling a root, good BD #2, poor BD#3 (would have been better with bigger cam).
Oct 23, 2003
Pitch 1 has got to be my favorite 5.8 pitch in the whole canyon. Climbed it at lunch today and we were the only climbers on the Bastille. If this isn't 4 stars, I'm not sure what is!
Sep 11, 2003
Small cams will sew this up...good stems, jams, and laybacks on P1. Pretty sustained for (8) climbing...thoughtful moves in a few setions, but its all there. A great, long, worthy first pitch...looking forward to continuing up P2 in the near future.
Jul 24, 2003
The second pitch, although shorter, is much sweeter than the first...very physical hand jamming, don't rappel after the first pitch!! Crack climbers will eat this pitch alive.
Jul 17, 2003
I didn't place anything bigger than a #3 Camalot near the crux(the offwidth is too flared for anything bigger.) Solid at the grade and burly. Laybacking caused me to barndoor and fall several times. Maybe a combination of jamming and laybacking would work. Well worth the effort and fun to do.
Jul 7, 2003
Before I led P2 I was given some beta on gear, which included taking a couple of Metolius #3s and a #4. The only gear I used, and felt very secure, were #1s and #2s. It is not actually an off-width, but a solid, be it awkward, hand crack. Because of the right leaning and downward direction of the crack, it leaves your body hanging and your right foot smearing most of the way.
Jul 1, 2003
.... there are many flakes to hang a rope on, not to mention the rocks perched on top of P1 March of Dimes. I'm sure it is possible to rap directly from the anchors atop P1 Werk Supp, but doing it in 2 shorter raps significantly reduces the chance of something going wrong.
May 19, 2003
If this pitch isn't 3 stars, I don't know what is ...
Oct 7, 2002
I agree with everyone, the first pitch is a really great climb. The pitch is varied, interesting and fairly sustained. The protection at the bottom of the route looked a little bit sketchy, although I didn't lead the route. But I thought the harder, upper moves were well protected. I really look forwared to leading this pitch. I think the first pitch is rated 8+ in Rossiter's guide, and I would say that's right on.
Sep 30, 2002
The first pitch is easily one of the nicest pieces of rock I have EVER been on. Gorgeous line, good pro and astheitcally pleasing. Climb this thing. I think it deserves three stars:)
Jun 14, 2002
Did the first pitch today...you can sling a horn right when the real climbing begins for good, easy pro (not the two obvious horns below it). An all around 3 star pitch--and long.
May 31, 2002
If you like big cracks, P2 is great. I haven't found anything quite like it in Eldo. Eventhough P1 covers some discontinous features, the line is very enjoyable with good quality rock. I highly recomend it.
Jan 24, 2002
An Awesome line.. A little bit of everything, jamfest on P2, good fingers on P1, great length on P1. A really superb route. Good grading as well, P2 deserves more credit than it gets, it is a character builder once you get on it. Jump in !!
Nov 5, 2001
Linking this route with the last pitch of March of Dimes is great, and it makes the descent much easier. Even though pitch two was short, I found myself placing more gear than I usually would only because the ramp on which the belayer sits angles up right quite steeply. Resultingly, in the the event of a fall, hitting this ledge is quite likely if the leader has run it out at all. 9+ is a good grade for this pitch, but the 10c March of Dimes pitch is a bit overgraded (more like a/b) especially when compared with routes like Bolting for Glory (10a) and Northcutt Start (10d).
Aug 1, 2001
Really?? Wow! I think the first pitch is one of the best 5.8 pitches in the canyon--I've done it about half a dozen times. Great for running up at the end of the day.
Jun 13, 2001
Somehow I never realized that there were bolts on top of the first pitch. Always did the long runner and belay at base of P2, as someone mentioned. This is a great route, though personally I don't like the first pitch very well (the 2nd one makes up for it though).
Jun 12, 2001
I did both pitches yesterday and I would have to say... the second pitch is VERY STRENUOUS, especially after doing such a long pitch before it. Absolutely a 9+, if you are not comfortable climbing 9's then don't try it unless you got doubles in the #1 and 2 Camalots. I also found this climb to be VERY odd from the usual Eldo climbing style. I can't wait till I have more time to try the next section of March of Dimes (10c)... what a cool lookin' crack.
Jun 11, 2001
Yes, I made the same mistake on the descent too which made for some tangy downclimbing the steep slope with loose rocks. The correct or easier way is to stay high on the traverse until you see the talus field. I found that many smaller pieces work best for the first pitch. My largest piece was a #2 Friend until the last move, where I placed a #3 Friend. On a side note, Myke and I were filmed on this route today (4-30-01) for some climbing instruction program to be aired on a new cable network. We will probably get 5 sec. at the end when they are fading out. ;-)
Jan 1, 2001
- Wide Country
The crux is insecure but safe on a big shiny bolt, although clipping that bolt is a little spooky and reachy from a just barely secure stance. The runouts are indeed on easier terrain and probably warrant an R rating (clean but looong), but if you pulled the crux, then there's no way you're going to botch those moves. Agree with Scott that it's a great summertime Eldo pitch early in the morning.
Sep 3, 2016
After the crux at the bolt, you can place a finger-sized piece or nut in a crack near the Bastille Crack attached with a double-length runner. Save a 0.75, red Alien, and yellow Alien for the top.
Sep 10, 2014
I really enjoy this climb, it's a great quick single pitch to do in the summer. I don't feel that it's particularly dangerous, all the runouts are on much easier ground and the crux is very safe (though hard!). I found that double ropes really helped to maximize the pro on this pitch.
Jan 22, 2009
Sick Onsight, if you are reading this page to gather beta before you climb it you are missing out on a great gut check. Stop reading now while you still can! Even with beta I think it's a stout lead, it seemed more scary than XM. Bring lots of runners and balls. Don't fall it looks like it hurts more than your ego.
Aug 12, 2007
I did the first pitch again today. Even more classic than I remember. One thing concerned me, though. There is a block that you have to pull on at the end of some run-out climbing just before the crux. It is actually what you're standing on just before launching into the crux. This block sounded very loose when I tapped on it. Perhaps it has always been this way, and I've just never noticed before. Does anyone know whether it has always been loose, or has it only become so recently? The above comment about the rock being absolutely bomber makes me wonder. Anywhay, be careful, but don't be deterred. Just try not to pull out on it.
Oct 14, 2005
This was one of the harder 11a climbs I've attempted in Eldo. The slightly awkward and fairly scary though short crux seems a bit harder than 11a to me - also, if you blow it you'll swing down and right, into the small broken dihedral that you traversed from (could hurt quite a bit). Granted, I hate to fall, so a mental edge is needed here, and for the RO that follows the crux. The RO sections of 5.9 climbing that precede the crux aren't too bad, and the climbing is really nice; though a fall shouldn't be considered a choice. I'd certainly give this climb a balzy rating. BTW, the rock is absolutely bomber.
Oct 5, 2005
I agree with the comment by Anonymous Coward that: "the traverse to the left off the XM belay is the crux of the climb" rarely is this interesting little piece of climbing attempted. In all my years around Eldo I've never seen anyone even try it. It's a mystifying no-hands high step onto a nubbin. I've lead this section a few times and must say that when one puts it into the context of Duncan Ferguson and Don Peterson in EBs on-sighting it ... it's really quite impressive. Try it and see for yourself. It's a bit of a run-out and may give you a dry throat! Kevin Worrall and I did a nice finish to this climb as well. The climbing extends the original line and maintains the standard and personality of the route. Description of the pitch is in Steve Levin's Eldorado climbing guidebook.
Nov 15, 2004
The third pitch is a "must do" for all us sandstone junkyard junkies.
Jul 18, 2003
Also, if you do the entire route (which nobody does) you will agree that the crux of the climb is moving left from the XM belay, which involves a move harder than anything on the first pitch. See "The Direct North Face" for a description of the "route" as it is commonly done these days.-SL
Jul 18, 2003
- Wide Times
- X-M
The tat around the chockstone at the bottom of the Dalke offwidth will hold a fall. A few months ago, I led the offwidth after clipping the chockstone tat with a sling. After feeling a bit insecure due to grease and funky beta, I started to downclimb from 25-30 feet above the chockstone. I was unable to downclimb the entire way and ended up taking a 40-footer onto the tat and ending up eerily close to the ground. I then grabbed a #6 Camalot and reclimbed the pitch clean. Someone might want to tie some new cord there sometime soon, but it is good enough for now.
Aug 10, 2016
Wow, I'm surprised to see almost no mention of the offwidth variation (original free variation?) to the first pitch. The way most of you guys are going sounds a bit hairball. Got up there the other day and it was great! Pretty secure and featured, while still physical. The chockstone seems like it's not going anywhere, and if you want to you could potentially bring a big cam to push through the crux. Doesn't seem to get a ton of traffic, but I'd recommend it for a bit of old school fun.
Jul 5, 2012
Mike C. is totally spot on. The second pitch is very serious for the leader - with bad fall potential (suspect RPs with a bad landing if they blow). A ballsy lead. If the second blows the crux, no big deal - a top roped swing to the left with nothing to hit - I've had two seconds take this fall - they were able to swing back into the start and try again. The suggestion to solo or backclean the pitch doesn't make any sense (i.e. is crazy) to me. Wally
Sep 2, 2011
Linked the first two pitches, which made sense to me at the time, because if the micro nut blows at the crux, you'd fall down instead of swinging onto the bolted anchor and the pillar. Of course, you're likely to fall further, but I didn't test the theory. The swing is not a big deal for the follower if you place a nut loosely after the traverse. Everything will pull out when you move up and you can claim that you soloed the second pitch. :)
Aug 7, 2010
Let's not kid ourselves. In the description, it is written that this climb is a more serious for the second when in fact I have seen many climbers fall from the crux and just swing left 15 feet or so. Yes, I assume it is a little scary to fall from there as a seconding climber. If the leader were to fall and his little manky stopper actaully hold, they'd hit the edge of the big old flake/chimney and it could be nasty, and if for some reason that piece failed they might never walk again.... So, I don't agree that it is more dangerous for the second. I do think that if you do X-M to Outerspace in 3 pitches, it's one of the best 5.10s in the canyon, if not the best.
Jan 17, 2010
After contemplating the crux move on p2 for a good twenty minutes I ended up committing to the higher variation with two tiny sidepulls. Either way, it's one move that is quite exciting. The RPs there are mental gear.
Oct 14, 2007
Link P1 and P2. You can use a cordalette to clip the anchors above the pillar just like it was a long draw. This allows the leader to fall straight down on the nuts if they slime off, and if they do fail you won't take the full ride b/c you will hit the bolts. when I lead it I didn't have anything long enough to pull off this trick. So I had my belayer up on the pillar. That situation would have pulled the nuts around the corner hard to the right if I lost it. Not confidence inspiring. In fact I wouldn't put a rice cake on them if they pulled into that orientation. Have fun.
Aug 12, 2007
This is a "heady" route!! Awesome rock and cool moves. My partner led p1&2 together which seemed pretty bold. I was pretty worried about the big swing following the moves off the pillar. For p3 I tried to go up the left var. but backed off, gear wasn't great, and I couldn't find anything that would keep me off the ledge. so, I went up the right side. All was well, I got to the base of the O.S. dihedral and kept moving right. I clipped a pin (shoulda clipped two) and started the looong upward traverse right. I got a ways past tht old janky slightly downward driven pin (about 10-12ft out) and lost a foot on some lichen. This sent me for a freaking long ass ride!!! We guestimated about 30-35ft!! By far the longest fall I've taken! If that pin pulled it would've added another 30ft to that (my last piece was a good 15ft below). I finished the pitch but still found no other gear 'til the dihedral. A lot of lichen and not much chalk tells me most people don't do this pitch. It's a scary pitch I think but well worth doing, and it is part of the original climb. Outer Face is aloso a good exit option if you don't want to do O.S. again or if someone is on it.
Jul 6, 2006
WRONG FLAKE! In my previous posting, I said that the flake I blew was the same that Ivan mentioned above. The flake that blew was NOT the hand-traverse flake, but a much smaller undercling flake about 10 feet directly above the belay.
Jun 30, 2004
FLAKE ON P3 HAS MOVED! Today (6/20/04), I fell on the right-hand/straight-up variation on P3, pulling two cams and the flake under which I had placed them. This is the flake that Ivan Rezucha mentioned on 5/16/04 as being loose. I'm not sure how this has affected the rating on this pitch, as we bailed and did not finish the pitch. The flake is now sitting (marked "XXX" with chalk) fairly securely on the ledge just up and left of the belay ledge Fortunately, my partner and I only suffered minor abrasions and a good scare, and the flake landed in his lap. I'd hate to think what would have happened if the flake had fallen to the base...
Jun 29, 2004
Here's another testimonial for the quality of the small RP on the 10c variation to the 3rd pitch, and the insecurity of the move. No need to risk a 25 footer... my foot slipped off the mantle and the RP held... basically a 5 foot fall. The move isn't that hard, but you mantle with your weight fully on a polished, slanting hold... a strange, insecure move. Look around for the placement... it isn't immediately obvious, but it's there.
Jun 23, 2004
I really wanted to do the original 4th pitch rather than finishing on Outer Space, although Outer Space sure looked tempting. We had neglected to read the guidebook, but I knew it went up a dihedral right of Outer Space. I thought it was the dihedral just right of the Outer Space dihedral, but my 1980 Erickson and Ament guides now make it pretty clear that it's the green dihedral much further right. And that is what we climbed. From the belay above P3, climb up about 20' to where Outer Space traverses in from the left. Move right on the red band to below a small dihedral with 3 pins. I thought I was going to climb this up to the dihedral just right of Outer Space, but it looked way hard. Continue right to a tenuous stance. I had a real hard time here letting go with either hand, but eventually got gear. Make one more hard move up and right to better holds and easier climbing. Continue right to the base of a left facing dihedral with a good crack (finally!). Thinking I was home free, I was surprised to find a hard move half way up the dihedral. The crack runs out, and I had to step left onto a sloped hold on the arete with not much for the hands. One more hard move back right into the corner, and easier climbing to the top. Erickson says this of the pitch: "Move up a little and angle 30' right, then climb a dihedral . 5.9". Felt harder, 10a S? Ament says, "...with marginal protection traverse right (5.9) across a steep band of rock. Ascend a left-facing dihedral 5.8 [felt much harder to me] near the west edge of the wall. Rossiter's topo looks correct but his text makes the rightward traverse sound short. Questions: What's the dihedral just right of the Outer Space dihedral? Below that dihedral, what's the dihedral with the 3 pins a short ways right on the XM traverse? Just right and up from those 3 pins is a left facing flake with a pin. What's that? There are lots of routes and variations on this wall. It's hard to figure it all out.
May 16, 2004
Unsure of whose advice to heed regarding linking P1 and P2, I used double ropes with one rope clipped with a long sling to the bolts above the pillar, and the other rope going straight up to the brass nuts. This worked pretty well, but I had a lot of drag trying to rock over onto my left foot after the crux. That was pretty tenuous. With double ropes you can just run the right rope straight up from the P2 crux to the bolt right of the belay that Steve Dieckhoff mentions above. Looks like a big Crack'n Up will go in above the higher brass nut. Next time... I actually had more trouble on P1. The first 25' or so are really slick and no gear for a while (but I placed a piece high on Wide Country, and then pulled the rope through after getting gear on route). The moves leading to the step across are awkward. At the step across it's reallly pumpy. I hesitated at the step across, put in a cam above the last pin. Downclimbed about 10'. Tried to rest, went back up, then had to hang. On P3, the 9 way makes the most sense to me and is the original aid route. It's straight up above the belay, and the gear is good until the hand traverse. But beware! I followed this pitch, and a small Alien was really stuck. Chuck said, "Maybe the flake expanded when I leaned out on it." Sure enough, I used my nut tool as a mini crowbar, and I could visibly expand the flake (not the smartest thing to do, as I was hanging on another cam in the same flake while working on the stuck cam). After cleaning the gear, I downclimbed the 9 variation and TR'd the 10 variation on the left. Didn't see that trick wire. Had to pop for the ledge. May not be leading that variation any time soon.
May 16, 2004
This is one the best multi pitch 5.10's in Eldo when combined with Outer Space. When done in 3 pitches, every pitch is 10c and every belay ledge is great. It has a little bit of every type of climbing that Eldo has to offer. (squeeze chimney, liebacks, technical face, steep cracks, mantels, runout face, and overhanging jug pulls)
Oct 27, 2003
From ramp at top of pitch 3 climb around the corner right to the easy (5.0) exit pitch for W. Butt, Hair City, etc. Takes about 2 minutes to the top.
May 19, 2003
if you are tall, like me, the crux could be the move out of the handcrack on P1. The crux moves on P2 are tricky to figure out, but once you work on it, it's not that bad (fortunately for me, my partner's gear popped after he passed it, giving me an effective toprope). The crux on P3 is a reach problem, but not pumpy, like on P1.Don't make the mistake, like we did, of thinking that you can downclimb the ramp to the left from the top of P3. This led to some rappelling in the dark!
May 18, 2003
Three stars when combined with Outer Space. The first pitch (10b) is a quality stop on the Bastille 1-pitch cragging tour.
Sep 30, 2002
That is a sneaky little #2 RP placement on the third pitch! I once managed to slip off after the crux and fell about 10 feet onto it and it held. Glad I didn't find out what woulda happened if it didn't. Scary.
Aug 30, 2002
I just led the 2nd pitch this morning and I didn't place any RP's at the start of the route. With the belayer positioned correctly, this feels quite safe. Don't fall after the crux move, of course, but then it is easy. Place the stopper underneath the small flake - tricky to find and place because it isn't obvious, but it's there. I led the third pitch as well and after clipping the three fixed pins, you can place what appears to be a very solid #2 steel RP (might be a #1 - anywhere a really small nut). This placement is not immediately obvious as there are to other placements that are larger, but not very secure and I doubt would hold a fall. This tiny RP doesn't inspire much confidence, but if it held, this pitch would be well protected. If you fell and it pulled, that would be bad, as the pins are well below your feet the crux move. Great climb! Bill
Aug 30, 2002
If you're gripped about the nut on top of the flake, string additional runners over to the two-bolt anchor to back it up -- the nut would keep you from swinging inside the flake if the micronuts were to fail. I think it's better to lead this way because if you were to fall on the micronuts, the catch would be very dynamic and they are more likely to hold. If you belay, you're looking at an awkward pull on the nuts as Joe desribes or placing nothing -- either way, a nasty fall for both the leader and belayer.
Jul 26, 2002
Joe, I guess it is the wimpy way, but the way you describe leading it (linking the pitches without using the belay anchor), the risk is way too high for someone like myself. I have also heard of people linking the pitches, but clipping the chains with many long slings. Seems like too much hassle to me and your method (of just using the RP's with the next piece way below that) is just too dangerous for me. Hats off to the guys like yourself who have the mental control for such feats! I should probably also say that I haven't even led the pitch in question! I have belayed two people using this method, though. I need to go lead it. I followed it fine the last time up there. Bill
Jul 26, 2002
Hey Bill- isn't that the wussy way of doing it?... just kidding. That actually seems like really good beta for those who want to do the route but might not be the most solid at the grade. I have heard of people linking the first 2 pitches, but clipping the chains for crux pro... big, big swing potential. FYI- I think linking the 1st and 2nd pitches is actually much safer than belaying at the chains on top of the pinnacle. A belay from the chains would likely put an outward force on the delicately placed RPs at the crux, possibly pulling them out. With the rope running straight down the RPs are more likely to stay put... as it is, the highest RP pulled on me anyway as I did the easy traverse part. That next piece of gear sure is a long way below the RPs though.
Jul 25, 2002
I just noticed that this route has only one star. Bogus! Two stars at least when you combine it with Outer Space. As stated above, if you combine the first two pitches, it appears to be quite dangerous for the leader. Also, as stated above this route is NOT dangerous for the second even if the leader fails to place the stopper above the crux as indicated above. Here's the new information. If not combining the second pitch with the first there is a good way to protect the leader. The belayer clips into the bolts at the top of the pillar with a long length of rope and climbs back down to just above and right of the crux moves. Braced in the slot by the pillar and the wall, the belay can now give the leader nearly a toprope for the crux moves! In fact, I wouldn't even bother placing the RP's - the belayer is above you. If you step out low (tricky and balancy), then there is a single hard move to do.
Jul 25, 2002
X-M__Outer Space is one of the best 5.10 routes I've done in Colorado, along with the Scenic Cruise, Yellow Wall/Forrest Finish, and the Book link-ups at Lumpy. As stated above you can get two RP placements right at the crux, but it takes some work to find the optimal placements. The nuts are decent, that is they'll probably protect the crux but I certainly wouldn't want to take a big winger (or an 8 footer for that matter) on them. Be solid!! If the leader fires the crux then he/she should have no trouble finsihing the pitch without placing any more gear. The leader can then clip the Inner Space bolt to protect the 2nd as stated above.
Jul 25, 2002
If the first two pitches are lead together, then it is definately scarier and more dangerous to be on lead during the crux. I followed the pitch, thank god, and pulled the crux moves before cleaning the disturbing RP. I'm fairly confident that had I fallen during the crux, the rp would have kept me from the big swing. However, the above advice for the leader to reach back right, following the traverse, and placing something for the second is good. It's impressive to link pitches 1 and 2 together, climbing directly into the crux from the chimney.
Mar 23, 2002
TWO STARS!!!....
Jan 25, 2002
I'm with Chris on this one...fantastic quality rock, technical movement and exciting position.
Nov 12, 2001
I must say that this route deserves atleast two stars. Good rock, good moves, good line. Plus if you combine it with Outer Space, it's one of the most fun/best 5.10's in the canyon if not the front range.
Nov 11, 2001
On P2 the leader can back-clean even to the point of clipping the anchor and downclimbing the easy dihedral....after that it's fairly easy to climb out right from the belay and clip into the bolt on INNER SPACE (the only real use for that bolt)--this will give the second a good toprope. They take a little swing but it's not as bad as they think it'll be. On P3-the left-hand var.--I usually place a very small but solid RP next to the crux 'long reach' move. It goes into a perfect little slot formed on one side by a crystal. After the long reach it's nice to get a good piece in and I think the best might be a tri-cam!
Nov 1, 2001
If you don't have HB's there is a really solid #3 Black Diamond Micro Stopper (steel-head) in the seam at the crux. Reach up high and slide it down until it catches.
Nov 1, 2001
As Charles states above, it is quite possible to place good gear for the second on the 2nd pitch. After completing the crux, climb up and set left a few feet to a good stance. From here it isn't hard to reach back to the right and place good gear directly above the crux. The second is completely safe now. I did indeed fall off while following the crux. I went only a couple feet to the left and was able to get back on and do the crux the second time. My advice on the crux - step onto the wall as low as possible. Once that is done, heading up involves only a single hard move.
Sep 13, 2001
for pitch 2, the climbing becomes easy after the crux, and so if the stronger climber is leading, it would be advised to run it to the belay or as far as he/she finds comfortable. this will make the swing of the second less substantial (more like a toprope than traverse) and will make it easy to get back on the route after the fall. even better, climb the route with two solid 5.10 leaders, no falls, no worries.
Aug 1, 2001
There are 2 possible brass-nut placements just around the corner from the flake-belay. I used 2 HB micronuts (not offsets) These can be placed from a good (not pumpy) stance at the corner if you can do a near-splits (or are very tall, which I am not) or from a slightly off-balance stance once arount the corner on the face holds. A few more things- yes, the old KB's on Pitch 3 will hold a 30' fall. That was me on Sunday. It might be a little harder in the heat/sun. Do it before the sun hits in if on a summer afternoon. The route should get 2*'s. Great route, but not the best.
Aug 1, 2001
I did not see any nut placements out right post-crux. I have led and followed the second pitch and found it scarier to follow. If the second is really worried, it's not that hard to tie off short, use the extra rope to thread the anchor atop pitch one and give yourself a back belay (probably easier with a grigri). It's the same idea as lowering yourself out from an anchor on an aid route. Tom Isaacson
Aug 1, 2001
Have not done this route, but I distinctly remember a Bill Wright TR where he describes falling on the P2 crux as the second climber, and not swinging at all. His partner, he said, was able to creatively place a stopper back right after the crux. Unfortunately this TR was only on my e-mail inbox and somehow got deleted...it isn't on Bill's website. Anybody familiar with this?
May 31, 2001
- Bastille - W Face, The
- Blind Faith
Bad ass climb! One of my faves of all time. Even the second pitch is cool.
Dec 9, 2016
There's a bird's nest in the crack about 10' up from the belay atop P1. Lots of bird shit at the belay and an obviously unhappy bird. It may be best to bump out left to West Crack for the time being.
Aug 18, 2016
I climbed the .10 variation last night. I think it has better and more interesting climbing. It's more technical, but if you stick the correct sequence, it's less work than the 10a crux. Those well versed in the "Eldo dance" will probably execute it easily. I still, however, think, that it is probably a 5.10 pitch and not 5.9, but I don't have much grade sensitivity in this area.
Apr 8, 2016
Left a yellow BD nut, dyneema sling, and green cordlette at the top of the first pitch when we had to bail due to nightfall yesterday. If you get them back before I do today, please return in exchange for beer. Michael_moritz@live.com
Mar 13, 2016
Belayed like a POS on P2, gear stuck (0.75), beer in it for return. :(
Jun 26, 2015
Blind Faith. I have loved this climb since I first climbed it in the '80s with hexes and stoppers! P1 is the purest crack climb I can think of at the grade in Eldo, and P2 is a really nice compliment with very different climbing. Just wish it was more continuous. When on the west side of the Bastille, Blind Faith is almost mandatory every time.
Jun 17, 2015
I left a couple of DMM offset nuts on an oval biner at the bottom of this today. I came back, and the people there told me whoever found them was trying to give them back. If you found them, pm me and a sixpack is in your future. Thanks
Apr 24, 2015
Did the route this morning in one pitch with a 70m. Was great. Two fixed nuts on the route, so all in all pretty clean.
Jul 22, 2014
Got a #1 BD cam stuck low down today [blush]. Pretty wedged. I'll go back for it with some tools soon, but if you manage to get it out in the meantime, please call 303 621 4250. Thanks!
Aug 12, 2013
Lead it today and took a good 20'er from the top of the hand crack. Got it clean 2nd try. This was my 2nd 10a in Eldo. Felt really good and protection was excellent. Nothing bigger than a #2 C4 needed.
Jun 12, 2012
Superb climbing. A great intro to Eldo 5.10!
Apr 19, 2011
I would give this route 4 stars if it had a better finish. A more enjoyable finish in my opinion is to head left after P1 and climb the 8ish corner. It finishes in the same 5.6 chimney as the standard finish does, but with better quality rock and a few more fun moves. Definitely a great climb though. Very worthy of 3 stars - so close to 4....
Nov 3, 2010
Found it quite thuggish for 10a.
Aug 4, 2010
Being that I've lead this climb as a single pitch on most occasions, with a 60m or a 70m rope, (the 70m leaves you more room at the end for anchors), I can assure you that this climb in just under 200' in total. It would be nice to change the main description that says 250' to accurately reflect this possibility/opportunity. (EDIT: Done)
Mar 15, 2010
Just noticed the route description says this route is 250' long?.... I climbed this yesterday for the first time and had no problem linking both pitches with the use of long slings, and the occasional runout. More like 155 feet of awesomeness.
Sep 14, 2009
Did the right crack variation today. It is certainly not 10c. I would call it 5.9. It is certainly easier than the left crack. The moves are, however, worthwhile and fun.
Jul 22, 2009
I have been to The Creek a lot recently and this climb was a fantastic Creek-style climb. One of the best I have climbed in Eldo. Easier than Handcracker. I just wish it was a little longer, but don't we all?
May 21, 2009
A great, well protected route. You can throw as much gear as you want on the first pitch, but I recommend saving some #1-#3 Camalots for the top bit. The p1 crux felt right on at 10a - definitely pumpy, but the jams are good. The first 40 feet of P2 has some creepy rock, but the gear was good.
May 16, 2009
You rule.
Mar 4, 2009
We did the route yesterday and it ruled. The 10c variation went without hitches. Crux Beta: step high enough to gain a jug with the left hand and jam your fingers in the 10c crack. Reach higher with the left or just cross through to a nice two-hand shelf. There's a good nut placement above the 10c jam. My partner noticed a loose hand-hold near the start of pitch 2 in the chossy looking rock.
Mar 4, 2009
This was my first onsight 10 in Eldo, not bad IMO I got a Brown Point on Northcutt Start yesterday as I rested on the pin at the crux, but that was the first ten ever in Eldo, so not bad. As a solid crack climber I found this one to be pretty easy. I thought some of the jambs were shaky at first with my skinny hands, but upon readjusting, the jams held quite well. Ran it out a bit to the crux (not necessary, but I didn't have many long runners), then threw a #2 in at the start of the crux, and thought I would run it out to the lip jams were so good I hung in there and put in another #2 and a #1 then turned the lip on a good jam high with the left and I think the right hand crimp with feet high in the crack. Then stepped onto a nice little edge on the arete and it was done. The anchor really sucked, and I was a little scared for my life. Went left from the belay to a 5.6 exit with nice cracks, because I didn't want my "green" partner to try to lead his first 5.9 trad route on chossy rock above a manky anchor. One pitch next time with a lot more long runners, and I will take the right variation and the original 2nd pitch.
Oct 28, 2007
If you have small hands you may find the P1 crux rattly and spooky.
Oct 28, 2007
Most people probably assume Jim Erickson simply walked up to this climb and free soloed it. In fact, Jim is a shrewd and calculating fellow and climbed up and down the start numerous times over many days before he committed to the crux section. In the 70s in Eldo, most climbers were experts at climbing down as well as up difficult sections. These days it is all too tempting to yell "TAKE!" This route was climbed last weekend by Jim Logan and Wayne Goss, together with one of their sons! I was hanging out at the base chatting with them, which is where I got the info on the first ascent.
Sep 19, 2007
I think this would be a great first 5.10 lead in Eldo...especially if you know how to hand/foot jamb. The pro is excellent...except for going over the bulge maybe, but you can put a super solid #3 or #2 Camalot in right before the move. I've never crimped or mantled up over the crux, but just keep jamming until I'm over. I found the 5.9 move on P2 harder than the P1 hand crack actually. No bolts needed IMHO...you can build a great anchor at the top of P1, and it's a two pitch route.
Sep 19, 2007
"For this reason, I think there should be one bolt placed a few feet left of the pin." The bolt you suggest would violate the entire premise of the climb and the park as well as the rules of the legally chartered FHRC. With time, you will get used to Eldo and what is good and what is not and will probably feel more secure about climbing in Eldo. My comment on Jan 30, 2002 (read above) may have once spurned a sentiment somewhat like your own at this time, but as it says, I don't climb like I once did, but I feel safe there now.
Jun 4, 2007
A fixed anchor is not going to happen given that you could climb up a few more feet and get multiple good pieces above the alleged loose block. The climb can also easily be done in one long pitch, but then you might be asking for a bolt at the top where an anchor is hard to arrange if you've used all your big pieces.
Jun 4, 2007
I am relatively new to Eldo (30 routes or so). I think the anchor at the top of pitch one is uninspiring. The anchor spot consists of a large block wedged into the crack. It is possible, though unlikely, that it could move and spit out your gear. I did not have one piece I trusted 100%, much less three, so I put in 7 pieces in five different cracks around all the loose junk. Yes, it was overkill, but an anchor is supposed to be overkill. Especially in this case where the first 25 feet of the next pitch has no great gear. I guess you could sling one of the massive blocks lodged in the crack, but I didn't want to touch it, much less be attached to it. Before you get the first good piece (a crack formed by two large walls rather than a crack on either side of a loose looking block) I pulled hard on a torso-sized block that had no visual means of attachment. I can't believe it hasn't fallen out yet. For this reason, I think there should be one bolt placed a few feet left of the pin. This would make the anchor bomber. At this point, it might be good. I will not belay at this spot again if I can avoid it. Doing it in one pitch is a good idea if your experienced enough to alleviate the ropedrag and can run it out enough to conserve gear for the whole pitch. BTW. I don't think a fixed anchor is necessary for the first pitch, but one good piece would be nice for the possibility of a forty foot factor-two fall from pitch two.
Jun 4, 2007
It was too difficult to sort through the comments above, so I thought I would quickly recommend the 10c variation over the 10a variation. The climbing on the 10a side is a bit of a grovel (though well protected). The climbing on the 10c side has much more aesthetic movement and gear that is just as good. Yellow and green Alien and or nuts can sew this up. Give it a shot!
May 14, 2007
A pretty solid and classic 10a. Definitely would be good to follow to figure out the mantle/bulge sequence at the top before leading. Quite awkard mantle on some loose stuff with not-so-bomber jams. A really fun route though, I high recommend it. Watch out for some loose flakes near the second bulge, would be a bad place to put in protection to protect the crux.
Mar 21, 2007
Holly **** Stephanie! Maybe I was a bit tired from doing (leading) both Hair City and West Buttress, but having done quite a number of low 10s in Eldo, P1 crux completely shut me down, and I had to aid it (and yes, I can climb crack, no I'm not a 5.12, or even 11+ sport climber). P2 is straightforward 9, even pumped. I think there is a 'bad' way or trying to do the P2 crux, though my partner inexplicably fell multiple times seconding. Discussions on route difficulty never cease to amaze me. When I did West Buttress a couple of years ago, the 9+ crux seemed hard - I had to deadpoint for it - and definitely felt sandbag 9+. This time it felt quite straightforward (footwork being key), as did the 10a straight up (although did feel 10a). People talking about Xanadu being 'hard' for 10a, Uhhh? It's just stemming with good gear. Technique and how you feel on the day seem to make a big difference in Eldo. Then, others are like "Blind Faith is a good first 10", and I fell multiple times - something I haven't done in Eldo before. The pro is decent, but strenuous to place, and I was looking at a 10+ footer trying to top out without placing the last cam up there (I got pumped placing that last piece). A really good, fun climb though, and I wouldn't hesitate to get back on it, even if I did not expect to make the crux. The bulges before hand and P2 are just a delight. Then again, who knows, maybe I'll find it "easy" 10a next time!
Aug 9, 2006
We took the left-side (10a) variation on pitch 1, and I thought it was maybe 5.9+. If you have good crack technique, there is actually a good hand jam (for your left hand) right over the edge where you have to mantel and a handhold off to your right. I happened to think the second pitch move over the roof right off the belay was more 10a than the first pitch crux - I'm only 5'5" and I had to really lay it back and reach to get a semi-good hand jam in the crack before I could step over right, spicy and exposed!! And I agree that like a lot of Eldo climbs, some of the rock is a bit questionable - you're pretty sure it's solid, but ............
Aug 7, 2006
Climbed this two days ago. Just to update, the only remaining fixed gear for the P1 anchor is the old piton. Everything else is gone--no cord, no nut.
Jun 28, 2006
I onsighted the first pitch today (I have to brag 'cause I'm stoked) and it is awesome - good pro and your fall will be clean at the crux. However, the final move to the belay is f@&*ing desperate. I seriously almost puked. The only other place that this might be a 5.10a is at Vedawoo. So, sweet climb, but a definite sandbag. Jim Erickson is a bad ass. Oh, and the first 20 feet of the second pitch has some scary loose blocks. Cheers.
Apr 21, 2006
I followed this in 98 and fell. led it in 2003 and fired the whole thing. Just make sure to rest well before the crux and don't hang out in the middle of it for too long. I think the start to the upper pitch is just as hard if not more as you need to place pro from an overhanging stance. Wonder when I'll get the nerve to do it again...
Oct 21, 2005
I did this route yesterday 8/31/05. The anchor atop pitch one is nowhere near as bad as I expected from the comments. Maybe it was recently replaced. Now it consists of a pin (solid) and a nut (solid) equalized with a sling. I think the discussion of an anchor is moot since it is a giant ledge for you to belay from. Protection abounds or just plop down on the ground and wedge your body between rocks with some gear behind you. Now for the actual climb, I went left and found it a little more strenous than the rest of the low 10s I had done in the canyon. I used the crimps out right while I had a bomber left hand jam. Protection is awesome so if you are thinking of doing 10a. This is not a bad one as you do not need to worry about protection just the climbing.
Sep 1, 2005
Hmmm.... what would the perfect entry level 10 be. Xanadu would be my first suggestion. Nothing devious, pro above your head and soooooo good!!!!
Sep 7, 2004
Blind Faith was a difficult lead for me, one that I would not consider a novice 5.10 leader to attempt. The crux moves are harder than Tagger, Over the Hill, and March of Dimes in my opinion. I climbed the crack on the left (with a nice big fall!). The crack on the right looked easier, though. Place a #3 Camalot in the crack near the top of the bulge, work your way up the crack, crimp like crazy on the holds above the bulge, and try to find foot placements under the buldge (I didn't find any which made this very difficult for me). Good fun!
Sep 7, 2004
Don't forget to bring your hex's for the first part of the route. (# 7,8,9) You can then save your cams for the crux. You can place a #3 Camalot about 2 feet below the top out. This is a fun 5.10a route up to the topout, which I won't try to rate. I finally had to traverse to the right to get over the bulge. The anchor now consists of a piton, 2 knots, and a bomber nut, which you should backup. There is no reason to rap, the 2nd pitch is fun and only has 1 well protected hard move.
Aug 31, 2004
...or you can lead it in one pitch with a 60-meter rope with no simulclimbing. Great route!
Jul 10, 2004
Followed P1 yesterday... at the crux, feet up as high as possible, palm-forward fist jam with right hand, lay-back left edge of crack with left hand and, with commesurate body position, step up with right foot to surmount bulge. Strenuous, but went well. This will be my strategy when I go back to lead this pitch, along with tape, after looking at my hand today. Should have rested a bit longer before grabbing the lead for P2 as it continues to be quite pumpy. Awesome climb.
Apr 27, 2004
Hey ac- If we adhere to the old school ratings, Boulder climbers not only can't climb pure cracks but overhangs, slabs, pure face, corners or anyother type of climb. Here are some ratings from Ament's 1970 edition of "High Over Boulder": Gorilla's Delight 5.9 "Layback a flake to the 5.7 or 5.8 slab above," Country Club Crack 5.10, Cussin' Crack 5.5 or 5.6, Final Exam 5.10, Skunk Crack 5.8, Tagger 5.9, X-M 5.9, Black Walk 5.8, T2 5.9 "Start under the overhang and climb out and up to a bolt, "Rosy Crucifixion 5.8, Ruper 5.7, Grand Giraffe 5.8, Super Slab 5.9, Vertigo 5.10, Grandmother's Challenge 5.9, Grand Course 5.9, Break on Through 5.9, Rincon 5.9. Advances in technology should easiliy make up for any broken or polished holds, missing fixed gear, etc. Thus the only conclusion to be drawn is the the modern Boulder climber is simply a pathetic wuss.
Apr 23, 2004
I think it should be pointed out that Erickson originally rated this route 9+. I think what Alan Nelson refers to as the "Valley Daze" is the trick for this one. Most climbers in Boulder are not so great at pure cracks as we don't have any. A few months at the Creek or in the Ditch will make this route feel easier. An anchor on this route will not pass. I say pull the pin and stuck cordalette. If anyone needs to bail, they'll just leave some booty for us. It is also possible from the top of pitch one to climb up and left to the second pitch of West Chimney (5.7).
Apr 22, 2004
No need for any anchor at the top of the first pitch. Carefully traverse off climber's right on exposed, inobvious class 4 ledges. 5.10, huh? I must have been better than I thought I was 20 years ago!! Maybe it's just that my hands fit the crack...
Apr 21, 2004
I too would recommend the route for the first .10a trad lead, it was my first .10a trad onsight. I certainly found Blind Faith much easier than Break on Through, but then I feel very comfortable on hand jams. The fixed "anchor" at P1 is definitely sketchy. I certainly would not rap from it. Finish the climb with the second pitch and walk off. P2 is alittle easier and less consistent than P1, but still worth doing.
Nov 17, 2003
"... is a bolted anchor more visually unobtrusive than a nest of ratty slings?" As you well know, Joe, one of the early goals of the FHRC was precisely to remove the unsightly mass of slings that had decorated Eldo for so long. In wilderness areas we are not even "allowed" to leave those slings. While I have no feelings one way or the other for placing anything on Blind Faith, a well concealed Fixe anchor has the advantages of durability and reduction of the nest of ratty slings. The bottom line in this debate should be directed toward the consideration that making any change constitutes an improvement to the climb - in all regards and dimensions. If you rap off a tree that has a nest of ratty, and often rotten, slings, what will you do? You will add to the mass of slings, that's what you will do, and that is part of the problem of having so many people climbing these routes. An analogy: did the trails up the Redgarden and the West Ridge help in any way? We had all humped around the nasty climber's trails for years, and that worked well when the population using the trails was limited. But, with the hordes came more erosion, and the new trails stopped the erosion.
Nov 11, 2003
A bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch will never be approved, so it's not even worth debate. What is worth debate is the current set-up and whether it should be removed.I think its pointless to remove the current anchor. People like to climb the first pitch of Blind Faith. If you remove the anchor, I'm certain that a new, similar set-up will reappear. This presents another question: is a bolted anchor more visually unobtrusive than a nest of ratty slings?
Nov 11, 2003
Holy Crap... I'm gone for eight hours and people have saturated this page with caustic remarks. My posting was placed here to help others that ran into the same predicament as I create a confidence inspiring set-up for a rappel in case they HAD to. Ivan, perfect example of my point is that my girlfriend and I climbed it the other day and in the process of clipping up an etrier, a carabiner shifted and pinched the crap out of one of her fingers. We thought it MIGHT be broken, therefore she was in no position to climb pitch two. Are you saying I should have told her to suck it up and climb on (rhetorical)? I understand the suggestion of leaving gear, though read my comment about backing up the existing anchor again...I simply posed a question. The implication within my question was that the FHRC would deny any motions towards shiny new hangars atop pitch one. I didn't make a suggestion.This truly doesn't have to be a bolting-brawl. I just made a vain attempt at providing helpful hints to those who might find themselves in a less-than-ideal situation. Leave the damned anchor as it is. It defines the top of the first pitch, it CAN be backed up, and digging out that knotted cord would be more of a pain in the ass (and potentially scarring to the rock) than leaving it.Forgive me for attempting to use the comments forum as an educational tool for others to use *read "What information would someone who has never climbed this route find useful?"*
Nov 10, 2003
Whoa... I didn't mean to stir up a hornet's nest. I never suggested bolting the stance. I for one would encourage removal of the existing crap anchor. THAT WAY CLIMBERS WOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR OWN CHOICES, ACTIONS AND SAFETY. I for one firmly believe that if a piece or anchor is to be FIXED it should be SAFE. BAD fixed gear, particularly anchors invite the very real potential for serious injury. Make it safe or don't make it at all!
Nov 10, 2003
Scott Conner and Tony Bubb's comments are spot on. A bolt anchor atop the first pitch of Blind Faith would not be approved by the FHRC unless there was overwhelming public sentiment in favor.This is highly unlikely. More likely is the complete removal of fixed anchors from this spot. Bottom line: don't start up Blind Faith unless you plan to do both pitches. If you want to rappel after one pitch, be prepared to leave some gear behind.
Nov 10, 2003
If you take this discussion to it's logical conclusion, then either a new anchor has to be placed, or the old one removed completely.I for one would prefer to completely remove the old one. Like people have said, it's bogus.Since you can build a good anchor on trad gear there in the first place it's unneccessary and just leads to people calling for bolts. There are plenty of multi-pitch climbs in Eldo that don't have or require bolted anchors on top of P1. This is just one more of those. So I suppose I could totally fix this problem by removing the in-situ anchor... just as well as we could by adding bolts. Or maybe we could just leave it as it is and people can just place trad gear to suppliment it. I don't see any precident for bolting more of the park so that we can turn more climbs into 1-pitch TR's. If a pin and a bad cord set the precident, we should start removing the pins and bad cords, not just bolting stuff. I'm not anti-bolt. I'm just anti-bolt-everything.
Nov 10, 2003
In keeping with the flow, I'm putting this here, though the last several posts should be moved to the Eldo Fixed Hardware thread. I don't want to see a bolted anchor go in on top of P1 of Blind Faith. This would be strictly for convenience. The "anchor" that is there now is an ad hoc job and should probably be removed all together. It wasn't built for the masses. There are enough gear placements on that ledge to build your own anchor and leave your own gear if you need to retreat. Do those in favor of a bolted anchor here want to bolt the first pitch of all of the multipitch climbs in Eldo? I say no bolts on Blind Faith and here's why: Eldo is a trad area. This is a two pitch climb. The quality of the second pitch is as good as the first. The difficulty of the second pitch is less than the first. The walk off is easy.
Nov 10, 2003
William, If you're not ready for the route as is, you are responsible for getting down. Leave gear if necessary. Else wait until you are ready. This is an unnecessary convenience anchor in my opinion. In any case, this discussion should be continued in eldo fixed hardware (Editorials (Ranting)). Ivan
Nov 10, 2003
Casey, I'm inclined to agree with you in that this is one of the worst anchors in the park. Has someone submitted a request for bolts/chains yet? This was my second time up the first pitch of Blind Faith (one variation each), and both times I have felt the anchor was safe. Something ANY party should do if rappelling off this anchor is to back it up with trad gear, but don't equalize it. This will give confidence to the first brave soul and assure the second climber that the anchor holds. Obviously if one equalizes the anchor, this is not possible, so place the back-up in 'leading-style' below the webbing that is the anchor. Ivan, I also found that when I seconded the first pitch I was too tired to lead or even second pitch 2. This was before i was climbing nearly everyday and before I had the same endurance I have now, but it is a challenge to get on that effectively stiff 5.9 after the first. Hey, sometimes you just gotta go for the one-pitcher!Cheers!~Wm
Nov 10, 2003
Is it too much to expect you to put in some gear to make the anchor safe, climb to the top (interesting), and do the easy walk off?
Nov 10, 2003
I really like this route! However the anchor atop P1 is BULLDOOKIE! It is worth considering doing this route in one nice long pitch to avoid lingering at a crappy anchor. It annoys and amazes me that on a route of this quality and popularity that the anchor has not been fixed. It is not a nostalgic honor to the style of the 1st ascent to leave this anchor as is, as the 1st ascent was 3rd class. It is negligent lunacy! If you want dangerous anchors and adventure go climb in the Black Canyon or Bugaboos. But this is the front range and a very public area. Let's all get real, survivable anchors are a GOOD thing. Dicey and Spicey are great but not on this route!
Nov 10, 2003
William, we rapped off it too. I would NOT recommend making a regular practice of rapping off bad anchors. This is the worst fixed rap anchor I have seen in Eldo. casey
Nov 10, 2003
Casey, the knotted cordalette combined with the piton holds just fine. Rapped off it yesterday (though nervous) and it held. However, the stoppers that Jackie mentions haven't been there since mid-summer to my best recollection. Not a bad route to practice/learn aiding on. I aided the roof on the right yesterday evening late and had a good time. Were I to do it again, I would place a nut in the crack above the roof (Tony's salvation hold, though the climb would still go free as a good .10b) and put a nice runner on it. That way, there isn't horrible rope-drag from the green alien that protects the inside of the roof, and your second will have two clipping points for the roof proper (aside from being the same piece). It was just too damn cold to get the free onsight... *I know... excuses, excuses...*~Wm
Nov 8, 2003
I'd agree with the previous comment. Maybe some comments don't explicitly specify this, but it IS the mantle at the top that is the crux, not the crack below (although strenuous, which saps energy for the crux). It is during this mantle that I fell on my onsight attempt. The jam at the back of the ledge SUCKS.
Oct 21, 2003
Yeah, that last rattler half-in half-out jam with loose little pebbles and sand scrunching around in it is sweet if you know proper crack climbing technique. Whatever!
Oct 17, 2003
I gotta make another post on this route...I have since learned how to hand jam, and I must say that this is the easiest and most secure 10 that I've done. No crimping or anything except jamming should be going on here, and there are jams to get you over the end of the overhang as well. With adequate crack skills, every jam should be a jug!
Oct 16, 2003
I found the crux crack jams are a bit slippery, (although that was probably my sweaty fingers). I got worked pretty good busting thru, even with the security of a rope from above. I found it to be an awkward crack, and once in it, not easy getting off your arms, since your out of balance, leaning backwards. There is a stem for the left foot higher up, and a crimper out right halfway thru, but still quite pumpy. I want to work this again, to see what I'm missing. The P2 crux is not as strenuous, but just as awkward. A great, reasonably long route, where you're technique will be challenged in a few spots. Great exposure...look forward to getting on the sharp end of this route. Erickson's FA 1972 solo of this climb is remarkable...
Jul 25, 2003
I hesitate to add anything since there's already a veritable book going on this climb, but I didn't see any mention of the variation to the second pitch. (Maybe it's a different climb?) Try traversing up left from the belay station at the end of the first pitch. After 15 feet it heads straight up a nice dihedral that will give you a little more crack time. It felt solid 5.9 to me, then lets up to 5.6ish stuff the last 30 feet to the top. Enjoy...
Jun 1, 2003
I climbed this yesterday. I have just recently been breaking into 5.10s, at Eldo and Lumpy primarily. This was my 3rd Eldo 5.10 and I had yet to take a lead fall at this grade. But this one did it! I think it is hand-size dependent, a little. I have thin hands and it was getting a little wide for me at the top. Also, would have helped to have known about the crimper to the right, which I didn't use, even when I reascended and topped it off. Also, don't bother placing too much gear in the bulge crack, which saps energy and isn't very beneficial--the fall is super-clean and I didn't feel a thing. Well-protected, so that is a plus for early 5.10 leads, but steep, overhanging, and strenuous, so not that great if you are used to "typical" Eldo climbing, which isn't very crack-y. Maybe good practice for an Indian Creek trip. Oh, easiest 5.10 at Eldo (for breaking the grade): Positively 4th St. This was my first and I had no problem. Steep, juggy, well-protected, short.
May 12, 2003
Well, it's not just sport-wankers that may get worked on BF. If you've been climbing mainly in Eldo (where real crack climbing is rare), this could seem pretty tough as a first 5.10. First time I did it, it felt p.f. hard for a 10a (I **thought** I was a good crack climber). About a month later, after my first Indian Creek trip, I did it again, and it felt downright E-Z for it's grade. Someone with lots of mileage on Lumpy 5.9 cracks would probably cruise it as a first 10. BTW, my first 5.10 was Break On Through, and I thought it protected very well -- maybe too well, as I got got overly pumped sewing it up like crazy (got the onsight though). Also, my 2nd 5.10 was the Tagger roof (also onsight). Why do people think it's dicey? There's a perfect 2.5 friend right at the lip. It's a stretch to place it, but you have a primo #1FR 1/2-way out the roof protecting that move.
May 11, 2003
IMHO, if anyone is searching for a good first .10 Eldo lead, try Handcracker on the West Ridge. It is a great summit route, with two pitches of moderate .9 climbing before the 10a crux pitch to warm up on. It also protects as well as any of the other 10- climbs mentioned here. The moves are much more straight forward (hand jams) than B.F. ....it may even be a bit soft for the grade, an Eldo rarity.kc
Apr 22, 2003
As of 2/22/03, the first pitch "anchor" consists of a single angle piton and a knotted cord. Be careful on the second pitch about 20 feet off the belay - there are a couple of loose, wedged blocks that people have clearly been yarding on.
Feb 22, 2003
Those of us who have gotten our butts kicked at indian creek should not worry about the "crack climbing" which is often optional (except for one move). Once you get to the overhanging section there are nice holds and one huge jug to place a bomber cam. Reach up from the jugg, get a hand jam, and grovel your way up to the top via sketchy insecure moves (with a beautifully clean fall(s), trust me I know)....also don't get suckered into the offwidth before the crux, there is protected face climbing to the right of it.
Feb 18, 2003
Very nice climb with short crux. Thier is a faring hand jam at the very top which will get you over the top with ease, not obvious.
Aug 26, 2002
THE FIRST PITCH ANCHORS ARE GONE. Well kind of; the anchor now consists of a knotted cord and a flexing pin equalized to a single piece of webbing with no rap ring. Now you have to do the second pitch (which is quite fun) and rapping after the first is more or less out of the question. This anchor should really be entirely removed or a better fixed anchor put in place.casey bernal
Jun 25, 2002
My 2 cents on the first pitch: fun climbing, 5.9+, nice hand crack, bomber gear, tricky topout, and BAD anchor. The anchor consists of an angle, a fixed tricam, and a knotted cord - all equalized to a single rap ring (part of the webbing can be used to back up the ring). The only nice thing at the belay spot is that you can back it all up or just put in your own anchor. It would probably be better to set a new anchor and continue on so you don't have to use the bad anchor. This whole mess should be replaced OR removed entirely (it is amazing how two bolts *the B word* would clean this up nicely). Also, if you love cracks you will cruise this one grinning the whole way. Crimpmasters will suffer. Casey Bernal
Jun 3, 2002
I read this discussion with great interest and went out to do the route yesterday. I hadn't done for it 15 years and remembered it with pain on the backs of my hands. Still painful, still 3 stars! My only comment is that I would reverse the ratings of the regular route and the variation. I think the handcrack is 10c and the roof on the right is 10a! (we did both while we were up there.) On the question of whether this is a good first trad lead, I would say that it is, but only if you've followed a bunch of handcracks first. It's tough to learn hand jamming technique on the sharp end on this one since it's fairly steep/stenuous.
Apr 15, 2002
I climbed Blind Faith yesterday and it was my first 10a lead in Eldo. I have to say that I found the bulge below the belay to be surprisingly hard. Now I am not a very strong crack climber and I also took my first fall, on gear I placed,leading trad from the crux. I admit that I felt this was a good first 5.10 lead for me because it was so easy to protect and it actually boosted my confidence knowing that I could take a fall on a cam I placed. After going back up to the crux, I realized, as with so many aspects of climbing, that if you get your feet up as high as possible it makes the crux a lot easier and getting super good foot jams will relieve some arm pump. Anyway, enjoy this route. It is definitely a challenge and an experience worthy of your time. And that's what we're all here for right? the experience
Mar 24, 2002
I definitely agree with the two Steves' comments above... The fact is that this climb is exceptionally well-protected for an Eldo climb and for that reason it is a great first .10 lead. Also, it is really not as hard as Charles makes it out to be...for a crack route that is. Of course, everyone should be aware of the fact that crack climbing requires different technique, greater stamina, and a vastly different repetoir of moves than sport climbing. This is probably why this climb might be difficult for the sport-master who finds climbs like Rosy and .12 bolt-ups easy but struggles on this fine crack-fest. For those adept at cracks, its a great first .10 lead, with "jam, jam and jam some more" being the best beta I can offer. Obviously, if you havent climbed .8 or .9 cracks yet, this ones probably not for you...but it certainly won't hurt to try it.
Feb 17, 2002
All I can say is that I had a damn hard time with the crux on P1. I had to hang twice before I found a greasy crimper out to the right of the crack. The second time I climbed it, it wasn't much easier. For me, it is certainly one of the meanest 5.10a's I've done in the canyon. I've had far less difficulty with Chockstone, Grand Course, etc.
Jan 31, 2002
I found the gear and holds on the beginning of the second pitch to be of poor quality. I was new to Eldo the first time I did it, and although I was on-sighting 5.11s, and a lot of R rated routes, but I had some concern for my safety on this route for gear quality. A few years later I did it again. Peter Spindloe lead it in the snow and took a few nice falls off of the P1 crux. I lead P2 and don't recall being as intimidated by it that time, but that was after doing 100s of routes in Eldo. Since then, I've lead it all as a single 60M pitch 3 times and had no concerns. I guess that just means it is in the eye of the beholder. And who is the Joker? After climbing the "5.10c" variation I'll pipe up. It's 5.9 if you are over 5'9". I can imagine a tough reach for short people, but the right-hand variation is pretty easy, and well protected. It would be a good first 5.10 for someone who is climbing 5.9 and is confident of their gear.
Jan 30, 2002
I agree with Steve's comment and most others except for the bitching ones.It is also a reality that everyone climbs with differant techniques and syles based on experience and strength, and possibly luck. Maybe when someone puts a comment in here ,or for any other route that the writer should keep their opinion of whether it is a good first lead of that grade to themself as we are all differant in our own styles.
Jan 23, 2002
I can't disagree with any of the previous remarks....I'll just say that I find it much easier to set up for the last move by.......... jamming with the right hand at the top of the crack, moving the right foot as high as possible and then reaching up and over with the left, jamming in the slot towards the back. This allows me to palm with my right with my weight already above the bulge. I think any 5.10 with protection as good as this one has is a good one to choose for your first. You may not flash it but you can always come back another day. One note: I've known people to get in trouble on the second pitch for one reason or the other. A GOOD ALTERNATIVE is to climb up and left from the belay and connect with the WEST CHIMNEY route. After 30' or so look for the little traverse to the right past a fixed pin. If daylight is fading this may be a better choice that the regular second pitch. A better fixed anchor for rappelling would be worth considering too.
Nov 6, 2001
A lot of bickering over such a short route. My take on the situation is this, the first pitch of the route is very very nice and gives a surprising pump at the crux. Hopefully you can reach high enough to place that piece before committing to the crux. (especially if this is your first 10 lead). Pull down on the hueco and left hand jam, throw the right foot up high and DON'T look straight up for something positive, the good holds are to the left of the little roof two parallel crimps which can get your feet over the 10c variation and up to the anchor, which is quite a masterpiece in itself. The second pitch is decent but nothing to the first, a little more difficult than it may appear at first, watch for loose block for first 20' of P2. We were 'Blind' indeed, doing the last pitch in almost pitch black ! Damn dayight savings time.
Nov 5, 2001
Geez, time to get the discussion forum section going on this site. Anyway, I did only P1 of BF last Nov. - my partner insisted that she was done upon reaching the ledge. Anyway, it is neither the best nor the worst choice for a first 10 lead. It does sew-up very well. Due to the overall steepness of the route, especially the top, any half-way competent leader should be safe taking a fall. Also, one can tell by looking at the route from the ground (or reading the detailed beta in the above comments), that it is essentially a cake walk until the upper section. The statement about the "5.12" sport climber does not surprise me and hopefully does not lead anyone to believe that the route is sand-bagged. Someone I know who boulders harder than me fell seconding this route. My overall evaluation of this route (P1) is it is 2 stars, plenty safe and 10-.
Jul 29, 2001
Whew! It is refreshing to hear that maybe Blind Faith is as hard as I thought it was. My 2nd 10 trad lead in Eldo. I fell a few times trying to exit the crack, and it even felt hard on TR the second time. I tried Northcutt today as my 4th Eldo 10 lead...you can read my comments yourself, but hey, the ring pin holds! For the record, if anyone wants to email along their idea of easy eldo 10s, I'd love to hear. Xanadu wasn't too bad, but I don't think Over the Hill is for the faint of heart...but it sure ain't pumpy!
Jul 20, 2001
I had the pleasure of catching Ben M., mentioned beforehand by Charles Vernon, taking a nice whipper attempting to flop over this top mantle. Left a healthy dallop of blood on it as well.
Jul 16, 2001
Break on Through is harder and less protected at the crux.
Jun 27, 2001
Chockstone "textbook nuts from good stance?" Ouch! Better be tall or good at blind placements - I use a black Alien which I can't confirm until I'm into the move. There's a good nut placement but I can't reach it (I'm 5.10, or should I say 5'10"). At least the crux on Chockstone is short - I agree with that - and the pitch is really good. (Sorry to detour from Blind Faith, just following the collective train of discussion.) I should mention too that I'm impressed by and jealous of these young gunners with the sack to go after Tagger and the Northcutt for early 5.10 (give or take!) leads...
May 30, 2001
I disagree with the comments that this is a good first 5.10 lead, although of course everyone is different. The moves over the bulge seemed awkward and desperate--that was the crux, not the straightforward crack moves. My advice-- try Chockstone (one tricky move, textbook nuts from a good stance), Break on Through (ditto), P1 Outer Space (if you like stemming--great pro but the sequence is kind of bizzare). Of course I'm revealing my biases toward climbing that has tricky, short sequences with good stances to figure them out--but most people I know prefer routes like that as breakthroughs. On the other hand I believe Ben M.'s first ten lead was Tagger which I don't want to lead even now and I don't know what category that fits in, so what the hell... I'll shut up now :)
May 29, 2001
After climbing BF the other day, my partner & I watched a party top out on Cream - looked like great climbing, really neat position (summits a slender pinnacle atop the Bastille's West Face), and some rather spartan use of small wires or RPs. Not a bit of chalk on it - looked like a good adventure, though the leader was solid and conversing with us while casually runout.
May 25, 2001
Maybe it's handsize-dependent, but for me this really is a good breakthrough route into Eldo 10a. The gear is great, you can place all the high pro you want and back down to a ledge to rest, and, for me, I feel it's one of the easier 5.10a routes in the canyon (and I'm the guy who HATES when people say that about a route they have wired). But it also fits my own style - dumb and strong, no footwork, and like I said it fits my hands (average male). A tiny bit of beta helps - at the overhang, jamming high with the left hand allows use of a big hueco in the crack and also sets you up to reach the blind crimper over the bulge (at about 2 o'clock) which helps the mantle. Two steep jams, a mildly grunting mantle (all with good pro) and it's over. Sentimental favorite for me, my first Eldo 10a and a confidence boost when I've needed it.
May 25, 2001
This is probably a good route for the first .10a trad lead, it is well protected and not too hard for the grade, and an enjoyable route (better than it looks from the ground)
Jan 1, 2001
- Breakfast in Bed
Great pitch. The start is quite sustained, but there are jugs everywhere. One of the steepest 5.8s I have done. Look for a good kneebar about a quarter of the way up too. Pro is decent, but you will most likely end up running it out a little.
Dec 4, 2017
I really enjoyed this route. Steep and pumpy with contrived moves and numerous hands free rests when you need them. Lots of fun.
Sep 24, 2017
As of Sunday May 4th, the intitial piton right off the deck is gone.
May 6, 2014
Highly recommend for a new 5.8 leader or one with only a couple 5.8s under the belt. If you feel OK with holding giant jugs, leaning back slightly, and placing easy-to identify cams and a couple nuts, then do this climb. There is very little groundfall potential as long as you know how to stick cams in a basic crack or nuts in a clear v-slot, which any 5.8 leader should be able to do. Bomber pro, great position. Do it! Watch out for loose rock at the belay, fist-sized pieces could easily make their way to the trail below or your belayer.
May 4, 2014
I almost convinced myself not to do this route about hearing my friends' and MP's comments about steepness, pumpiness, sketchiness, etc. As a self-proclaimed moderate 5.8 climber, I thought the gear was great the whole way (couldn't even get a biner into the pin), there were multiple rests, (2 no-handed), and all the holds were there. Do not hesitate to jump on this if you are on the fence about it: it's a pretty cool route.
Apr 6, 2013
Pumped myself out before finding a crack right and up of the perfect #1 cam placement in the vertical slot. There is a shallow, right-facing dihedral and the cracks are on the right of it. This hidden crack makes the climb much, much easier.
Oct 4, 2011
This route is pumpy!! I found the red Camalot at the lip to be adequate to pull the crux and then just hang on till you can find something else and get into the rest. Cool 5.8 though.
Sep 12, 2010
Sweet route with some fun, airy climbing. I would not recommend this to a new .8 leader though.
Apr 28, 2010
Definitely not an S rated climb. After the #1 Camalot at the crux, there is a great placement for a #0.3 Camalot before you commit to the crux moves. The moves are awkward, but you won't hit the ledge if you find the gear.
Jul 10, 2009
Definitely NOT for the 5.8 leader. Feck potential on the first real moves in a typical Eldo, rotten band roof. Switch between the corner and a steep 5.8 bucket haul. Go to the end of the rope and belay at the tree. Really cool route but S at the beginning for sure. CL
May 31, 2008
The 5.8 part is fun, true, but my favorite part is the finish: 5.5 Very exposed buckets. Airy!
Sep 17, 2007
No need to clip the pin or even place a cam before pulling the lip, there is a little hole that you can sling a runner through, bomber and makes the scary move a little bit less frightening....
Jun 28, 2007
Definitely not a beginner 5.8 lead. While everything is there, as mentioned earlier, it can be hard to find a restful stance from which to place pro for the first third of the climb or so. A nice steep, strenous route though with interesting sequences to decipher. Traverse left from the Bastille trail just past two rather large trees to the start. It is quite exposed, but the moves are easy.
May 14, 2007
Super fun route, steep, balancy, and tall. I also agree that it would be very scary for a new 5.8 leader though.
Apr 9, 2007
I agree with Jayer and others. While this is a good route [fairly] rated, it would be (is?) spooky off the ground for a beginning 5.8 leader.
Nov 4, 2005
Not sure what you mean by "not a good route for the beginning 5.8 leader" as the route is easily protected and only requires a little [commitment] after the cam at the lip. I would submit that this is an excellent route for the beginning 5.8 leader.
Nov 4, 2005
Protect the crux with a #1 Camalot @ 1 o'clock from the old pin, which is unnecessary. I would not recommend this climb for the beginning 5.8 leader. Huecos are fun.
Nov 4, 2005
I believe the route to the left is a Hersey route called Overhanging Talus (5.10d S). With a name like that, you can understand why there is not a line. Although I have not climbed either of these routes, the route New [Chautaqua] (5.10c) is to the right of Breakfast in Bed.
Sep 8, 2005
No need to clip the old pin, there is a perfect #1 Camalot placement at the lip. I think the old pin is part of a different route which is rated 5.10d. This route joins "Breakfast in Bed" after about 30ft. There is also a fixed nut on this adj. route. This route felt harder than "Hair City" due to the pumpy nature of placing gear. Fun stuff....
Sep 6, 2005
This route didn't offer much to interest me. There was a lot of rope drag due to zig-zag climbing at the start. I was unimpressed by the huecos as they are not the crack that Rossiter [described]. Looking for a 5.8 crack? Try Star Wars on Lower Peanuts wall just 5 minutes farther uphill.
Jul 18, 2005
I'm with you George! I found this climb to be rather tricky at the bottom, too. The [balance] is just hard to dial in before you get into the main crack. A stiff 8 for sure, IMO. A very nice line, however. -Tim Stich
Jul 10, 2005
From the name, this route appears a casual cruise -- but it is not! If you don't notice the hold mentioned by Ron (it is not that obvious) you can pump yourself silly searching left and right for the easiest way. Once you find it, the next few moves are very committing and it overhangs slightly, making pro placement strenuous. Also a few of the handholds in this section are thin and might snap off. Beyond this the difficulty eases, although it is still amazingly steep. This climb is much better than it looks from the ground!
Jun 6, 2005
I love this climb! The crux is directly off the ledge and yes, you want your piece to be bomber. I place a red Camalot in a slot on the edge of the mantle...quickly pull up and reach for the bomber hold as Ron mentioned on the left-facing dihedral. The climb continues to back off the higher you go. This is a long fun pitch. You can walk off the standard Bastille descent.
Jul 26, 2004
Kreighton-you found the knee bar. Nice, huh!? The traverse out to the base of the climb is a cool element of the climb, but if you want a few more feet of climbing, (must usa a 60mtr for this) start directly under the climb just off-trail and choose from a couple of ways: * There's a licheny slab to a fun bulge or, further right, **a short, thin, overhanging finger crack to a ledge, (through a bush or two!). Both ways lead up to the starting ledge. I think they're written up in the guidebook, but I just kinda eyeballed 'em, as they're pretty obvious. By the way, the 'fixed' nut is no longer there, and at the bottom...sure! Why not clip the pin. With a long runner. Back it up, if you can then go for it! One of my favorite routes in Eldo. -CL
May 19, 2004
Did this Sunday, Oct 6 with James Balasalle. Although a little funky to start, this was acutally a pretty cool pitch, more fun than I expected. Protection requires close examination, but is there. At the start, it is *not* necessary to traverse left and clip an old, upward-driven pin (!). Just plug about a #2 cam/Friend in an obvious vertical slot and go straight up the dihedral. Nearly the entire pitch is overhanging slightly, so look for rest stances. Pro is a mix of medium to small cams and nuts in the cracks along the dihedral, with one place for a big cam (#4 Friend) in a chimney-like recess towards the top. The more you can climb daringly on the big jugs on the outside of the face, the more exposure and adrenaline rush you will have! The upward driven pin on the traverse out left at the beginning should be removed. It is misleading since the traverse is not needed, and badly placed.
Oct 8, 2002
I backed off this lead after four tries, not trusting the piton, and a small cam placement I put in loose rock to the right. I just couldn't commit to that first back leaning move on lead. Fearing the ground fall potential I decided to hand the sharp end over to my younger, fearless partner for a go at it. He had no problem and made it look easy, and its not a super hard move, fairly graded at (8), but if your having a bad day, and do peel...well, you get the idea. The rest of the route is fun. It gets pumpy at the halfway point where you have to move out onto the arete and pull up on several huecos. Good exposure on this sustained route but as mentioned above, kinda tricky.
Oct 3, 2002
There's a bomber placement for a #1 Camalot or #2 Friend above and right of the old pin that protects the initial crux. Also, there's a great crack handhold in the right wall of the initial corner that simplifies the crank past the above placement. Once established in the corner, there's a bomber placement for a #3.5 Camalot or #4 Friend. I'm never worried about groundfall potential on this pitch. Whenver the climbing gets difficult in the corner/chimney, swing right onto the arete and climb up overhanging jugs instead.
Jun 29, 2002
Where else but Eldorado Canyon would you find 50 feet or more of back-leaning trad 5.8 with a low ground-fall-potential crux? The rating is fair, but you wouldn't guess it looking up on the sharp end. I found Ballnuts a valuable piece of gear for a thin crack that shows up regularly; they set quickly, and when you're getting pumped, due to over-gripping caused by anxiety, that means a lot.
Jun 24, 2002
If we're talking of the piton that is below and left of the initial dihedral, then I've always started it to the right of that pin. That starts you directly below the overhanging dihedral. These moves are stout, intimidating and not too easy to protect. Blow the moves and you'll probably bounce onto the ledge. I've always thought this was one of the more sustained and tricky 8s in Eldo. At least one solid Eldo 11 leader I know put in about six pieces before commiting to the initial mantle into the dihedral, but again, this was right of the piton. When you're getting pumped higher up, remember one word - "kneebar".
Jun 12, 2002
Which way do you start the climb right above the piton??? I went to the left and did a hard mantle with a marginal nut placement...it definitely felt weird and psychological.
Jun 12, 2002
- Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick)
- Chance of Rain
Chance of Rain - 5.10b/c sClimb up the slab to the left of Rain and follow a poorly-protected seam up to an awkward bulge (8 or 9) past a poor fixed pin (about 10 feet to the right of the 5.9 on the first pitch of the Northwest Corner) to a good stance. Reach left and place pro in the NW corner, then make a funky traverse right (10) to the stance above the roof on rain. Clip another manky fixed pin in a small left facing corner and then climb up and slightly left to a downward pointing flake. Fire in as many TCUs as you can and then climb strait up past a jug and tricky face moves (crux) to another downward-pointing flake. From here, step right and follow rain up to the anchor (5.8 or so). I would recommend leading this on double ropes and bring double sets of cams up to a #1.5 Friend. A #3 or 3.5 Friend can be placed in the flake past the crux, but it's not that hard going past it and more gear is available. This is a pretty cool route but is a little contrived as one could easily bail onto the NW Corner or Rain. It's a little runout but the cruxes can be bouldered out from good stances with classic Eldo pro (it's there, but you don't want to fall onto it!).
Jun 22, 2002
PS- I recently received this note: "...this route is "a chance of rain" and is in rossiter's (newest) guide book. the pins that were in it are long gone. 'this is only a test' is the vague, hold-less and gear-less scoop like water runnel left of chance of rain and right of north west corner(another bold derek route). I was present for the first acsents of both routes." -steve sangdahl So, the pins are now gone folks, which may contribute to the difficulty in locating/defining this route.
Feb 11, 2002
- Cream
I stepped over onto the face at the lowest place I could. Definitely not an option for those who are altitudinally challenged. That first, downward-facing flake flexed the full range on a BD 0.75 when I placed one behind it. Spooky. So, I took it back out and my first gear was a slung horn a bit higher. (Bad fall potential beforehand). The rest was fun and better protected. I placed a BD 0.5, a medium nut, looped a keyhole, and slung the top horn (for TR protecting my second). Interesting moves down low, cool holds up high, great position. But overall quality is average. [IMHO that flake should be trundled]
Oct 29, 2007
Boy, if I climbed where you did, that is ballsy use of a TCU/Alien behind a flake... looked pretty bad to me. I placed gear in the crack in the chimney, a large bomber stopper & bomber Camalot an a long sling, and then headed left. The first stem would have been hard for a short person. Then up and left on runout terrian. I got nothing good in for quite a ways (severe fall potential) and then got several bomber pieces once near or on the pinnacle. This gear was 1 ea. red & brown tricam + a few large Camalots in the back of huecos + I threaded a few needle-eyes. Of course, they were creative placememnts, but they were good gear. I'd only rate this pitch 1-star. It will improve with traffic.
May 10, 2002
- Early Riser, The
- Hair City
Currently a fixed stopper on P2 roof.
Sep 15, 2016
Pitch two is fun and protects well with stoppers. We used two, and the second one was super bomber. Hard for the second to remove. Do it!
Aug 28, 2016
P1 is pretty spooky, keep it together out there...I'm no Eldo chossmaster and did not like the looks of P2, instead opted for the line out right which was really nice.
Jan 27, 2013
This line is scary.
Nov 11, 2012
A little history ... we made the first ascent on a very cold December day -- hours before Royal Robbins showed his slide show of the first ascent of Tissaack on Half Dome. I led the first pitch wearing Royal Robbins shoes and, of course, no chalk, maybe with a stopper before that first mantle. After that it was just the 2 bolts. I then placed a small stopper near the lip of the roof. It gave me the heeby-jeebies, so I climbed down and the three of us tugged on it to test it. Jim then went up and led the over hang, and the rest was a walk.
Jan 3, 2011
Led this route for the second time yesterday and remembered it well as one of those trad routes that really grabs your attention right from the start. The first pitch has so much climbing variety in it, mantling, thin crimpers, jugs, mini laybacks, traverses, and runnout in a nervey 130'. The finish of P1 can be done 3 ways...straight thru the jugs, over to the right then into the squeeze chimney (highly undesireable IMO), or to the right side of the finish block, then traverse left 15-20' to the corner and up (the money IMO)...very exciting finishing that way (runnout .7ish with BIG exposure there)! So cool....
Oct 15, 2010
First pitch was incredible. The second pitch has some seriously sketch-ball blocks at the base of the roof. One block has been deservedly marked with the white X of death, and I second that motion.
Aug 15, 2010
My second-favorite route in Eldorado! Definitely commiting, though.
Jun 14, 2010
What a phenomenal route! I was glad to lead it today. I do think that the S/R rating is appropriate due to the runouts, but the hard moves on the first pitch are well protected. The 15'-20' runouts between bolts and gear force great focus! As an interesting variation, I setup a belay to the right of the block after the aesthetic pockets section. Such a nice belay seat--reminded me of a motorcycle seat (slightly less padded, though)--with a great view to bring up your second. This is followed by a nice but short squeeze chimney to gain the top of the block. The roof that is above this block is the money. Heading right, then up to gain a nice zigzag fingercrack was worthy of 9+ IMO. Now that I know the sequence it might feel easier next time, but onsighting was, for me, pumpy to commit and place gear; the ledge underneath looked unpleasant. The zigzagging fingercrack is 7ish, and fun the whole way.
Jul 9, 2009
Fantastic climb on great rock. I only did P1, as my partner wanted to lead the far right upper pitch. On P1, the holds are mostly big and positive, and really the only tricky move is at the pin starting the pitch. I do think you want to be comfortable at the grade, but if you are.... get on this route. There is gear where you need it, and sussing out the path-of-least resistance is pretty straightforward (of course, everything was all chalked up for me). If it feels too hard, there is probably another way.....
May 19, 2009
Best 5.9 in Eldo.
Aug 27, 2008
Great route! Run out but you can get gear where you need it, any 9 leader should be fine on this route. The crux is on the first pitch and although it is run out the falls are clean. Get on it! I would agree with Mic, and by the way Mic, good job on the time!!!
Aug 22, 2007
Although the mantle move down low may be the crux, the balancy move just above the second bolt, was a bit hairy too. Once you figure it out and move up, good small stopper placements are there. Up high on P1 I went to the right side, placed a #1 cam in a crack , traversed left to that little horn in the far left upper corner, and up to the top of the block, a series of moves made more exciting with that much rope out!
Sep 9, 2006
Finally climbed this, great route. Ac on Sep15 2003 comment nails the pro/danger issue. I now understand what 'safe IF you are comfortable at the grade' means.
Aug 9, 2006
I won't add to the gear-beta-blog-pile. Climb this route, it's fun!
Oct 1, 2005
Marcel and I climbed it on Friday, June 24th. Great climb. Someone left a draw on the second bolt - maybe a result of the rain on the 23rd. If you want it back and can identify it, do so here with a phone number and I'll call you back. Otherwise, thanks.
Jun 26, 2005
Climbed this route for the first time yesterday, what a treat! Runout for sure, but the pro is there at the difficulties. The first pitch is a gem, but don't miss the roof on the second pitch! Though it looks loose and chossy from below, some care on the lower foot holds gets you to super solid hand holds with great moves over the roof, and it's well protected with a bomber sideways #6 Stopper.
Sep 14, 2004
I did this route last week for the first time. I think overall it is a harder climb than the West Buttress. Definitely more sustained. I started the opening moves by using the small ramp for my hands and traversing under the layback. Once under I shot right up through it to the bolt. I have seen other people walk precariously along this ramp as well. I tried both and felt much better traversing underneath and firing straight up. I was also able to place a #9 stopper in the small flare at the bottom of the lieback before the pin. Makes the opening moves a little easier if not safer. The rest of the climb was great. The run out is not that bad as it is on solid buckets the whole way. There are definitely some places where you could get off route especially when approaching the end of the 1st pitch on the detached block. On the right is blank face so stay left for the easier ground right to the anchors.
Jun 16, 2004
Best rock quality I've seen in Eldo. Lots of traversing and awkward moves. Eldo is funky. Good route for the area.
May 10, 2004
Tie in Mic. You're giving the kids the wrong impression.
Nov 8, 2003
One of my top 10 in Eldo, probably above W Buttress, because of its clean line. A wonderful lead, and a fabulous solo because the holds are so positive. Did a nice line a couple weeks ago: up Hair City down Bastille Crack total time 19min 12sec from backpack-to-backpack. Enjoy! Sic Mic Don't slap rude and sail if you're shaky at the grade.
Nov 3, 2003
Ed-In response to your comment in response to mine, you are right. I am suggesting that someone climbing this be confident on such terrain at such grade and experienced in placing pro. Otherwise it would not be safe. I guess I slightly misspoke when I said you MUST NOT fall. I definitely wouldn't have wanted to fall. I trusted most pieces of gear I placed and with so much rope out, the fall factor would be low. If one was to fall during one of the runouts, the benefit of placing gear is that you probably wouldn't die (i.e. hit the ground). Rather you would take a large, scraping, swinging fall and may find yourself with significant injuries--something I strive to avoid. However, that sounds better than death.
Oct 9, 2003
Matt, I've led and followed it both ways, and it is perfectly doable to go straight up, but a bit harder and more poorly protected. Stepping right, up, then traversing is the more natural line, although as you say it seems odd to do so--when you step right, why not just continue up the easy chimney? In fact, that's about the only thing I don't like about this route--it's a bit contrived (on both pitches), and therefore not as committing as comparably graded Eldo hair-fests such as Metamorphosis or Alice in Bucketland. But purely for the climbing moves, it can't be beat at the grade!
Sep 16, 2003
Matt, I believe you followed the standard line. I recall maybe going somewhat right to get over the roof, then heading back left. Following the path of least resistance is the way to go there (follow the buckets!). It seems to me this is what Rossiter's topo indicates although he does not have his line going right over the roof (more like straight up).
Sep 16, 2003
Executive summary for Hair City: where a solid 5.8/9 climber needs gear, it is there and obvious. Where the difficulty eases, there are runouts ... none of which are too scary for again - a solid 5.8/9 leader. Probably not the best lead for someone who isn't a solid leader at the grade, but an absolute MUST DO for Eldo enthusiasts. If you need more info to feel comfortable about this one, follow it first to make sure you've got it in the bag. Being solid on 5.8 terrain and confident on 5.9 and even 10 will be a plus for the leader and not take away from the experience and exposure. One of the best at the grade PERIOD and probably among the best 50 routes in Eldo regardless of the grade.
Sep 15, 2003
I succeeded on the first pitch of this climb yesterday evening. I found it to be more challenging than other comparable 5.8/9 Eldo climbs. The middle section of the p1 meanders a bit and the path-of-least-resistance isn't obvious. The headwall of the first pitch still has me scratching my head. There is an obvious crack/gash trending left from the stance up the headwall, but it quickly peters out to crimpers. In contrast, the climbing to the right of this gash is much easier. I took the path of least resistance and moved up the right part of the headwall (almost to the exit on the right), then traversed left across the face before heading up the slab to the top of the flake. This seems to be different than the guidebook's route description. Where do most people generally climb to get through this section of Hair City? The way I went was so close to the exit, that it seemed contrived to traverse left and then move up the face to the top of the flake. -Matt Findley
Sep 15, 2003
David, with all due respect, saying you MUST NOT FALL does not really help anybody assess a climb unless it has no pro. Otherwise what is the point of placing protection? Do you mean that you would not want to fall at any point on this climb? If so did you not trust any of your placements? It sound like you are suggesting someone who attempt this should either be very confident that they will not fall except perhaps on the protected crux(s) or that they should be very good at placing pro.
Sep 15, 2003
The first pitch might be my favorite in the canyon.
Jun 22, 2003
Regarding the rating: One comment said it is 5.9, NOT 5.9+. I think the first pitch is maybe 5.9-, but lots of 5.8. It is the second pitch roof that is 5.9+. Another disagreed with the S rating. If you are a solid 5.9 climber, experienced with tricky pro and confident in your placements, you may not "feel" runout on it. However, the S rating is to warn those that may be breaking into the grade or less experienced with pro of what they may be getting into. This is definitely warranted in this case. You MUST feel comfortable on 5.8 terrain, you MUST place pro opportunistically and in somewhat tricky ways, and you MUST NOT fall. I think part of the fun is just finding your way up the wall. Who needs a detailed description on this route? It isn't tricky, just look for the easiest way and go.
May 12, 2003
To AC - regarding routefinding.... you make a good point. Looking up at the wall, find the large block/ledge a rope-length above you. The first pitch finishes by surmounting a bulge at the base of this block and angling left (runout except for a funky big stopper placement) and then up just left-of-center. To get to this block you'll find the 'bucket ladder' directly beneath. Getting to the first bucket is a bit runout but 5.6ish. It sounds like this is the point you reached. If you get to the bulge at the base of the block and don't like the looks of it you can easily escape to the right. Good luck.
May 7, 2003
I seem to recall clipping a fixed pin near the bottom right side of the big belay flake (near the West Arete belay cleft), moving more or less straight left and slightly up from the pin, and then gaining a line of good holds near the left arete of the flake, which is followed to the belay spot. Just good old devious Eldorado face climbing, not crimps of death.
May 7, 2003
Did this today and loved it!! Another Eldo classic! While I would agree with everyone above that the runouts aren't that big a deal (the climbing is solid, you can find occasional stoppers, etc.), I would disagree with the idea of not calling this an "S" rated climb. It IS a runout route. In general, the climbing is not harder than 5.7 in the runouts, but this ain't no sport route with a piece every 6-8 feet (and I'm glad it isn't). The fact that we all feel comfortable on it is great, but lets keep in mind that the purpose of this site is to provide beta. If you are just breaking in to 5.9, this route will most likely scare you. But, if you are used to Eldo climbing and haven't done it, go do this route! It earns its 3 stars.
Apr 21, 2003
I find the hardest move on this route is the mantle near the start. Once I was not concentrating (having led the route several times) and nearly lost my balance doing the move. As I recall there is a pin 5' below you here, but if it pulls or your belayer is asleep you could hit the ground. The middle of the first pitch is runout but it is very easy there. There are some large solution pockets in this section that will be full of water if you climb after a heavy rain (no problem, just unexpected).
Oct 7, 2002
I have done this route many times and feel it does not need to be rated serious. Reason being is that the first pitch can be well protected w/ some creative pro just left of the second bolt, the 1st pitch headwall also can take 3 to 4 placements, again w/ a good eye for the placements.
Oct 6, 2002
The aformentioned "loose and runout climbing up to the crux" at the start of pitch 2 is only runout if you choose not to place gear. There is a good small cam placement before entering the steep section below the crux. Use long draws on this and the next piece and you can reach the top in one long pitch with no rope drag. I Don't bring anything larger than a .75 Camalot for this route, it's one of my favorite.
Apr 22, 2002
Near the top of the first pitch, just before it gets overhung for a few moves, there is a really solid #9 Stopper placement. This is directly below the left-slanting undercling crack in a little slot. This piece provides a little reassurance as opposed to placing iffy cams in the crack.
Nov 26, 2001
I did this route today (3/9/01) and liked it very much. I led the 2nd and 3rd pitches. I thought the 1st was the most difficult and was glad I did not lead it (so I wouldn't have to clip any bolts not because of its difficulty).
Jan 1, 2001
Note that this (phenomenal) route starts just right of West Buttress, below a large block which is located a little ways up the steep talus that rises up the west wall of the Bastille. Another locator which has been there for a while is an old cable slung through a tunnel near the base of the route.
Jan 1, 2001
- Implied Consent
I don't think the climb deserves a bomb. There are better routes nearby, but it is something to do if you want to do another route in the area. The crux is really short, and the rest is easy.
Jun 20, 2016
And having forgotten I'd ever done it, I went to do it again today and had an OK time on it. It is seldom traveled, but it has had a good cleaning and probably deserves a star. The rating felt right, and the gear was within reason this time. Just goes to show - that there are good and bad days both!
Aug 23, 2015
I did this one just a few months back and my overall assesment was that it was just plain dirty and flaky - which would have left me with the impression that it would be better as a TR - presuming for a moment that it would be worth the effort of setting one up. However, it isn't. I concur with the bomb rating Leo gives it. There are higher quality routes that are just as obscure.
Sep 4, 2002
- Let Them Eat Cake
- Neon Lights
As per the note above abut a yellow Alien in solid rock - yeah, maybe, but it just blew out on Saturday and that's changed. So don't count on that at this point. I went for the route again after running a trail race with no warm up and couldn't get my feet high. I jumped off from a few feet above that cam and ended up taking a 40' fall when it went out. Luckily, I'd told my partner I expected that, so I had placed a few small Aliens below that and ended up 8' off of the ground. Don't take P1 casually.
Sep 12, 2016
The "jug" on the first pitch is hard to reach if you are not tall. Once you have it, the rest of the first pitch is easier, and there is a pod to rest in right after the crux.
Jun 20, 2016
I led the first pitch recently. I was able to get a yellow Alien at the start of the roof in solid rock. I'm not sure it would keep you from hitting a ledge if you blew the crux move but at least you wouldn't be falling onto the gear in the mudstone below the roof.
Jun 16, 2016
2nd pitch: great pro (including a #3 1/2 Camalot), super fun, very steep.
May 26, 2013
After pulling the roof on the first pitch, it is very easy to move left onto Sunset Boulevard (just after the crux) and enjoy the steep huecoed climbing on that pitch.
Jul 18, 2002
- New Chautauqua
- Out to Lunge
An ascent of this route should include P2 for full value. The pitch is significant, worthy, and fun.
Aug 23, 2015
P1 PG-13 for sure, though not at the crux level. P2 is fun though a bit unnerving off the ground. If you come off the thin face to the first pro, you'd easily break an ankle. "R" rating for this on the upper pitch.
Jun 17, 2015
Great route with much better climbing than I imagined after looking it over from the ground. It was a little spicy but never seriously runout, and the cruxes had gear at your waist or above. The upper slab is a little tricky, but as someone mentioned earlier, you can sling a decent chickenhead/pebble off to your right for some pro. After that, it's one big move up to a jug and then good gear to the top.
Apr 17, 2015
Runout to block/flake 30ish feet. Placing gear behind it isn't necessarily inspiring. The route is super good though, really fun climbing. Good inverted #2 halfway up route.
Jul 22, 2014
The first pitch of the climb is not as bad as some of the comments make it appear. The run-outs are on easy terrain, and cruxes can be protected if you're willing to spend the time looking for solid placements. I used a lot of nuts on pitch one and a R.P. above the mantle. The second pitch is much headier I.M.O., slippery feet on the slab and I had to cut my feet loose to pull the overhang.
Jun 24, 2013
Be aware that the entire first rising traverse off the deck on P1 is now essentially unprotectable (as of 07/09). A flake that once could be used for pro at the end of the traverse has become very loose. (It's actually just barely hanging on). That has compromised the integrity of the neighboring flake, as well, which used to have a great nut placement. That means that you're run out 30 feet before a good piece of pro at the 5.7 grade. What a great climb, though!
Jul 9, 2009
I thought the run out up the slab and the roof on pitch two warranted a .9 rating. The crux on pitch one seemed about .8ish though. Fun climb.
May 22, 2009
A few days ago, I had to re-climb this on TR to get a nut out. I lowered to the ground to get the nut tool, got the nut, and then, at the mantle move, moved left and up over a featured face into a left facing corner that led to the upper easy climbing. Fun climbing, but it would be pretty runout on the lead. I saw some chalk down and left that looked like someone was considering climbing straight up to the left-facing corner, but there's a pretty blank steep section blocking the way.
May 1, 2009
Climbed the first pitch of this route a few days ago, right after climbing Breakfast In Bed. IMHO, this climb is not nearly as difficult nor as serious a lead, but much more esthetic. A bit runout, but all of the crux moves were made from relatively good stances and were protected by fairly decent pro. A lot of fun, though it didn't seem as hard as 5.9 to me.
May 10, 2005
Man! Finally got around to doing this! I feel like it was just a bit easier than Breakfast In Bed. I'd give both that climb and this one an 8+. The second pitch is also a blast. To avoid the 's' slab, I started far left and got a decent piece in before traversing up to the roof. The roof indeed has good holds around the corner, but you ARE hanging it out there! Very fun.
Aug 8, 2004
This would be a 3 star on the West Ridge. Pitch 1 is steep and continuous for the grade (whatever it is) -- pretty darn fun. P2 is basically two moves, but still adds some value.
Jun 22, 2003
I agree with a previous comment that the mantel isn't as hard asa 5.9. A friend of mine lead breakfast in bed the same day andit sounded like his mantel was much more difficult than mine.I however didn't like the pro placement before the 5.8 sectionat the top. I found myself about 20 feet above my last placement(just after the crux mantel) and placed two very sketchy pieces which Idon't think I would have trusted body weight to. Is it possiblethat I missed some good placements in the 5.5 section? In any caseI enjoyed the climbing, but would warn climbers about the proplacement at the top of P1. Also, in the 5.8 section, going straightup on small holds and moving left although looks rather uninvitingat first is not as bad as it looks. The feet I thought were really good.Alex Olivas.
Jun 9, 2003
For the "unprotectable slab move" on P2, you can sling a decent small horn (a large round pebble) on the right. With the belayer down and left from the start, this horn is quite good. If you come off you'll still hit the big horizontal crack, but the horn should keep you from going all the way to the walk-off ledge.
May 30, 2003
There is a pretty fun variation listed in the guidebook for pitch 2: Go up the left side of the slab and turn the roof at a thin crack (10d/11a). Gotta say, although it's short-lived, this is pretty damn hard for the grade and a wee bit hairy to protect. Did I mention reachy?
Aug 6, 2002
Quick comment-Did the route for the 3rd time today, and realized a good way to keep the rope out of the roof crack atop the 2nd pitch is to brinng a #2 Camalot or equivalent for a pothole about 5 feet right of the belay ( a straight in crack 15 feet above the roof). This will keep the rope to the 2nd climbers right (out of the crack) and make it easier to belay. Otherwise it has a tendency to get caught in the sharp finger crack at the crux move while you belay your second.
Jun 20, 2002
FWIW, I thought it protected fairly well (the first pitch at least). Pitch 2 continues up and slightly right up a slab before turning an awkward looking, off-width/chimney crack/roof. It's actually hands and a finger lock once you get up there, but there's a tricky move on the clean face that is unprotectable - THIS warrants an s rating, I believe. Anyways, turn the corner and follow the easy climbing another 15 feet to the ridge and belay. I thought this was definitely better than 1 star, 2 stars in my book.
Sep 5, 2001
This was a good climb. I think my entertainment came from the assortment of quality moves. I didn't do a route submittal since I did not do P2. Anyway, the "s" rating may be warranted as Kristo suggests since some of the placements behind the hollow flakes are questionable and well spaced. My partner and I felt that this pitch was 5.8. However, I would recommend Blind Faith (10-) to the 5.8 leader before this climb due to the nature of the protection.
Aug 8, 2001
- Out to Lunge ... with Dessert
- Rain
Ermahgerd! If a sport route and a trad route drank tea and made a baby, this bundle of ten perfect bits would be it! In the "roof crux", I got a bomber hand jam, then a bomber tight fist, and once I pulled the bulge and stood up, voila! A hueco mouth waiting to go nom, nom, nom on a perfect cup! Perhaps this one was made for 5'2" climbers with #1 sized hands. I fired straight up direct to the anchors, and indeed, I think it a bit too run out for my mental happiness, but, as they say, you get what you get and you don't pitch a fit. Wow.
Mar 19, 2015
Fun climbing. Challenging and pretty safe. After getting a TCU (yellow?) under the roof, I had gear every 6-9 feet if needed for the challenging bits and then a piece or two for the easy slab above.
Jan 12, 2015
Not 'R' rated without the direct finish, but be a solid 5.10 climber so you don't get freaked by the 5.8 and 5.9 sections with sparse gear.
Aug 13, 2011
Fun movement with spicy run-outs. This climb definitely has two distinct crux sections. A 60 meter rope will work fine if you swing uphill when rapping off.
Jul 30, 2006
Awesome! Looking at the routes on the Bastille in the database, it seems that folks are awfully stingy with stars for this formation. I give it 3 (or at least 2 and a half) stars. The gear is sparse though actually pretty good for the cruxes. However, getting to the 2nd bolt, which felt like the crux to me, is a bit spicey.
Jun 28, 2002
This is a three star pitch.
Mar 3, 2002
Wow! Classic Eldo....
Nov 12, 2001
I use a couple of the smallest TCU's at the first set of overlaps and then a #3 Camalot in the middle of the larger bulge. This can be placed before committing yourself to the underclings and I think using a full sling on it is a good idea. I don't think going to the second bolt is the best way to go. The route was done for many years by going straight above the first bolt. The second bolt seems superfluous and misleading, it was replaced relatively recently and tends to lead you around to the anticlimatic lower-angled face to the right. The direct finish is brilliant. The difficulties ease quickly and the holds are positive but the climbing is steep and unprotected. I've thought that continuing the pitch by going left around the corner and heading up the NW CORNER would be a good thing to do but haven't done it yet. A fall from the crux of that would be spectacular. If you are attracted to SHINE be advised there is some loose rock up there.
Nov 1, 2001
- Serengeti Spaghetti
- Stem Gem
Did this on a TR to check it out. The crux for me involved a single digit first knuckle jam to surmount the dihedral. Interesting. my Gear beta: BD .75, 2 x #4 stoppers, #8 stopper, and slung flake (plus whatever gear you prefer to reach the start of the dihedral on easy but runnout terrain)
Oct 15, 2007
- Sunset Boulevard
Jumped on Sunset Boulevard yesterday. Pulled off a hand-sized rock right above the pin - which totally foiled my onsight :/ but ... the pin holds! In retrospect, if I was paying more attention, I probably would have realized that wasn't a good crimp to pull on and would have followed the chalk. Anyway, fun route and unique in Eldo.
Jul 15, 2017
This route is just fun. Almost like the anti-Eldo in that it's well-protected and full of jugs. Not that committing, once you get past the pin and the potential ledgefall at the start. After the crux at the first bolt, the rest is a jug-haul cruise.
Sep 27, 2016
No beta: I think that before the crux is 9+ and after the crux is something between 5.9 and 10a depending on your stamina. Before the first bolt, the pin backs up with a perfect nut (extend w/ sling), and a tiny cam a few feet up (also extend) will prevent a whip if you somehow blew the first bolt.
Jun 6, 2016
10+ to .9.
Jun 15, 2015
Fixed it, Matt. The online database of fixed hardware is a pretty new feature, and some of the data needs lovin'. Not unlike much of the hardware in our beloved chosspile.
May 2, 2013
Looks like the pin is new(ish) as it is not even rusted. You can back it up with green Alien or small nuts. It's all good once you get the 1st bolt above the pin.
Jul 12, 2011
My gear (other than bolts/piton): #1 Camalot before piton, nut after piton (can't remember which one but about size of little purple TCU), and slung horn up high (not necessary but cut down on somewhat spacey (but reasonable) bolts. Not many (or perhaps any!) routes like this in Eldo--a real sport climb (with a small bit of supplemental gear as noted). Lots of fun; I wish there more.
Oct 4, 2008
Lots of fun, the start looks intimidating but is pretty solid. A small RP can back up the pin and a blue Alien/blue TCU can be found at the ledge before getting to the first bolt. It is also pretty easy to clip the first bolt and downclimb for a rest. This was my hardest redpoint and onsight in Eldo to date, felt easier than some 10s though. I'd like to call it 11a, but other routes of the same grade seem harder (first p. Genesis, Vertigo, C'est La Vie). People who haul overhanging jugs at the gym will do fine on this. A warm up on Hair City yesterday was perfect before Sunset Boulevard.
Apr 23, 2008
I too enjoyed this route and agree that it is soft for Eldo--I felt like I was on the beach in Thailand while powering through the jugs while clipping bolts (in more ways than one). I wasn't sure of the grade beforehand and thought it was hard 10 or easy 11 (not that I am an authority). The runouts were totally manageable on easier ground but I did place some gear (equalized two small tcus)in the stratum below the first bolt as I didn't know what I was getting into. In hindsight, the clip wasn't bad. All in all, this helped my ego in contrast to all the sketchy 10+/11-s in Eldo.
Jun 4, 2007
Though it's too new to be in the Boulder Climbs South guide, I've seen folks on it and kept marching on by without giving it a second thought. I'm happy that tradition ended and we jumped on it finally. The bolts are in good spots, but I backed up the pin out of habit. If you blow the first bolt and your belayer is narcoleptic, you could deck I guess. The moves through the first and second roofs are exquisite and the slab work past the white round inclusion was superb. The end left me wanting more, kind of like a slutty supermodel lingerie show.
Sep 1, 2006
A point of clarification to the ac who thought the 2nd bolt above the crux was unnecessary. I added that bolt to protect the second. Without it, a fall at the crux while following the pitch sends the second into space and necessitates lowering to the ground and starting over.
Aug 19, 2004
Hey folks, climbed this one for the first time in a few years onsighted (loved) it the first time, got spanked the second time, flashed (loved) it the third time, the first time up the route was right after it went up and the thing that impressed me the most was the quality of rock/movement and the well spaced bolts. Except for the second bolt, I found the second bolt to be unnecessary and a real energy sucker AND out of character with the well spaced bolts on the rest of the route - my advice to those who follow is to ignore the bolt and go for the good holds. I understand that this bolt may take some of the commitment off the edge of the crux move but climbing in Eldo requires commitment even when on a sport/mixed route. Also, having climbed the route before and after the newly installed chain anchor. I found the route to be more enjoyable, in the style of Eldo climbing, when the route continued to the ledge - c'est la vie = have fun - thanks, Chris.
Aug 19, 2004
I did this route yesterday and it was great. I thought the bolts were perfect and although I had extra gear on me I did not place any. The wall looks intimidating as it is overhung the whole way but there are some great rests (no hands) and all jugs. Just keep pulling clipping and you will get through it. Amazing position and a great route to jump on on the way down the Bastille from another route.
Sep 25, 2003
There is now a beefy, two bolt 'sport anchor' that allows a true sport climbing experience, right here in Eldo. (The Action Committee for Eldo web site reveals that this was applied for and approved in the Fall of 2002). This anchor makes this a really fun, quick sport route to do before work. A 60m rope was plenty long for the TR/rap off - the application on the ACE site states that the anchor is "97 feet above the ground".
Jun 12, 2003
Excellent route. It feels like an 11-, but you almost forget that you are in Eldo. There's definitely no need for sketching around trying to will an RP into the rock, I did it out of old habit going for the onsight but will probably just use the bolts from now on. At most sport crags, I think this would probably get an R rating as well as three stars. I wouldn't be too psyched to use only the dead tree as a belay anchor, this route is pretty good at spitting people off. I used some nuts, a #2 Camalot and a long sling to make a solid anchor at the walk off ledge.
Jun 6, 2002
Ditto, Roger (on both accounts) - I was climbing up in the Estes Park area this past weekend and a fall on some of the bolted climbs would have been dramatic to say the least: Index toe before the last bolt comes to mind - there is the potential for 50'er (easy rock but uneasy climbing). Some bolted routes are not for the squeemish....
May 29, 2002
Here's what I think about sport/trad with bolts. In my opinion, part of the definition of a sport route is that it is well protected enough that there is no potential for long falls or dangerous ones anyway. So if you go by that, routes like Pansee Sauvage or maybe Just Another Girls Climb, or any pitch with an "S" rating, wouldn't be classified as sport routes even though bolts are the only pro. Sunset Boulevard is definitely a sport route.
May 29, 2002
I agree this is a good route. I also agree that this route is probably not .11c. It also poses a question- Is a route that is lead using only bolts for pro a sport route? This one is not over bolted, but the cruxes are well protected. Hmmm....
May 27, 2002
- Sunshine Daydream
- Voodoo
If you like doo-doo, do do Voodoo. Wrote that next to the route description in my guide in '93 or 4 or so, sounds like it still applies!
Jan 14, 2004
Agree with above. I thought this climb was highly overrated in both quality and difficulty. Theres only one remotely challanging move on the climb .
Aug 22, 2003
I had a lot of fun on this climb..P1 only. It's not the 'classic', by any means, but I think this would be a great climb to take a less-experienced climber on, or good for those 'time-frame issue' climbing mornings, (if Out To Lunge and Breakfast in Bed was busy)--It's short, fun, and no raps required. The pro was a little weird, though, I thought. Based on comments, I'm glad I didn't do the Poo-poo second pitch.
May 29, 2003
It doesn't deserve the star that it get's in the new Eldo Guide. To start the second pitch go directly up the bulge just left of where the first pitch comes up and traverse under the pigeon shit to a very licheny corner. Go up the corner to a ledge and up an obvious but not pretty groove. It's probably better to rappel than to try to find the walk-off.
Oct 22, 2001
[Definitely] not the rock quality you expect from Eldo. Getting into the v-slot was the only fun move. I also did the second pitch and found myself climbing through tons of pigeon droppings.
Jul 2, 2001
- West Arete
Got a grey 0.4 BD C4 stuck just past the roof to the right on pitch two. Any good samaritan who manages to get it out, there's a pair of Zeal Optics sunglasses/goggles of your choice waiting for you. Call or text me at 248-345-8394, thanks!
Jul 28, 2017
I agree that the pro is adequate. The route is fun! There really is no longer a fixed anchor at the end, but there are other ways to continue up.
Aug 28, 2016
Definitely has adequate pro if you take the time to place it. Fine climbing, tainted only by its brevity.
Jul 16, 2014
Very fun classic route. Steep climbing on jugs. Easy access and 3 pitches to the summit. What else can you ask for? The cruxes have adequate pro and clear fall lines. Some of the moves are spooky and exposed but not to warrant an S IMHO. The crux for me was about 30 feet after the start as you pull onto the arrette. My advice--just let go of the bomber undercling and trust the smaller holds above. Its over in a minute then its fun heucos to a fun chimmney.
May 19, 2009
We did the route about a week ago. I took P2. The first pitch starts just up the trail from Hair City and immediately traverses left. You can get a very shallow small cam on the far left before you go up. P2 has you just under an overhang with a crack running up the right side. There's a doughnut hole of rock you can sling if you like, but it's fractured. A cam to the left would be better. I climbed up to inspect the thin roof crack in the back of the overhang and decided what kind of piece I wanted, stepped down to the big ledge and got it ready, and then went up the crack. Pretty exciting! The rest of the pitch is very straight forward and broken up with rest ledges. Consider doing this route if you are looking for something at the grade and the other routes on the Bastille are occupied. Much easier than "Breakfast in Bed" a few lines over.
May 9, 2005
Did the 1st pitch yesterday. I thought there was adequate pro if you are solid at the grade....
Aug 22, 2003
Yet another finish to this route face climbs out from the belay alcove (before the chimney) to the right on good holds, but runout (5.5), to join the West Chimney route. This finish is rated 5.7 but feels more like 5.8 to me. This second pitch can be done in one long pitch. A great link-up. Rossiter calls this 5.8+S so I was reluctant to get on it for a while. It didn't feel too runout to me; just take advantage of placement opportunities.
Jun 7, 2003
The 5.8 crack on the right on pitch 2 seemed to me about as hard as the middle route through the roof (pitch 2 of Hair City). Less strenuous, perhaps, but trickier and looser.
Oct 7, 2002
Good stuff. The first 30 feet or so has the crux and only takes a small wire and alien or similar for pro, and it is SLIPPERY. Once you are through the slippery stuff, the climbing is steep, juggy and really fun. Combined with the 5.7 finish to the West Buttress, it is a great outing.
Sep 23, 2002
The first pitch has a few steep and stylin' moves. Even the second pitch is not too bad. However, be carefull of a few fragile features under the roof at the first belay. The last time I did this route, a party above nearly beaned me in the head with a football-sized rock! Never the less, this route is worth doing.
Jan 29, 2002
- West Buttress
I forgot to retrieve a BD 0.3 C4 cam and #2 C3 cam on a double length red sling placed at the start of West Buttress regular start. If found, please call/text 720-308-0398. I will buy you beer or a cash reward for being a good person.
Oct 8, 2017
I thought the move at the bolt on pitch 2 was the crux of the whole climb! For some reason, it seemed hard to get established in the offwidth, although I'm sure I missed some crucial piece of beta. Pitch one has some reachy, balancy moves, but the gear is decent, and the holds are generally incut and solid. Don't skip the final 5.7 pitch, it's definitely worth doing.
Jul 24, 2017
Direct start info: Seems the info scattered in this thread is a bit conflicting/unclear. In route description P1 above, it mentions the direct start as 5.9+. I don't think so. Levin calls it 5.10b. I tend to agree. For the direct start: do not traverse left from the start of Hair City, rather drop down the hill a tier to start, and climb directly up to the bolt in the steep, vertical-to-almost-overhanging face. Once past this section, you join the regular route above the regular start's traverse. Pro beta: there are a couple good cam placements before the bolt in the 0.5-1 C4 range. A tricam also fits one of the placements. Crux beta: the reach past the bolt is difficult if you don't know where the hold is. It's a hard pull to explore for that hold, and the clock is ticking. Otherwise, if you nail that hold right away, it's a reasonable 5.10 move. There are good nut placements after you clear the difficulty and get a stance before the pins.
Nov 5, 2016
I typically want my hair on fire all the way to the top, so I climb the last pitch of Hair City. This way makes a real hum dinger of a 5.9 rock climb to the top of the mighty, mighty Bastille.
May 27, 2016
Did the 5.10 variation after the crux, felt easier than crux. It was on my second try, I led it after I decipher the moves, definitely easier for taller people, I'm 6'3".
Sep 4, 2014
A fine climb with exposure and fun (even the OW) movement throughout. The 5.7 version of P3 isn't getting much love, for some reason. I found it to be enjoyable climbing on big jugs and incuts. If you want your hair to be on fire all the way to the top...well, the 5.7 isn't for you...but it's a nice finish after groveling your way up the OW.
May 27, 2013
Fantastic climb! I seconded up the variation on the Super Start (10a), and we inadvertently climbed the second pitch of Hair City from the anchors above the second pitch of the West Buttress. If you want a sustained 5.9 climb the whole way up, I highly recommend the second pitch of Hair City instead of the rest of West Buttress for a hair-raising, exposed, but extremely enjoyable and safe roof!
Aug 10, 2011
I'm not a wide crack fan, so while leading the second pitch, I clipped the bolt and busted out right to the arete and then up to the belay ledge. 5.9ish and some decent gear once you get out there and up. Recommended. Also, I back cleaned my gear so my partner could climb the wide crack. Also recommended. :-)
Sep 12, 2010
I thought the "5.10" variation was easy. I struggled figuring out the crux sequence but got the onsight, then started to go left and got scared. So decided to take the crack, if you go left first it is not that hard to get into the crack and is definitely easier than the crux. Also it takes great gear if your a big baby like me.
Jun 17, 2010
Hmm. Seems there's lots of beta about options after the crux, but nothing about nailing that reach. So...EXCESSIVE BETA WARNING: After the traverse, clip the pins, position your feet up on the little ledge, and select a higher edge for your right foot to press a semi-lieback. Decide which right pull crimps in the crack to crank on, imagine powering the move and throwing your left hand up to the holds above the crack, and it feels HARD! Hard crank, hard balance, hard everything. If you do it like the guy in the "5.9 crux reach" photo, more power to you. I was a wimp, felt sure I'd fall, and couldn't force myself to commit to a move that felt futile. ("There's a pin at your chest, weenie! Go for it!" *wimper*) I backed off and Rowdy Ranger Mike McHugh polished it off. Then, on second, a miracle happened. Same awkward stance, same high right foot, same low right pull crimp...and then...instead of cranking a big move and throwing left hand up, I started to pull a slower, little move, my left hand still on something lower, maybe flat on the face for balance, don't really remember, but the miracle: just before my left foot pulled off the flattish ledge, I suddenly thought to look DOWN and left, where I spied a greasy scoop to pop my left foot up on. Foot held fine. I was higher without any uber crank on the crack crimps. Suddenly, all the holds that had been a foot or more out of range were in easy reach. Now, your left hand moves casually up, feels selectively around for the best hold, and you've done the crux reach. Easy. Where to go after that? Straight? Little left? Big left? Your call. Read the other comments for that beta. By the way, this isn't just cheap top rope advice: after I joined him at the belay, Maestro Mike mentored on: "Shall we finish, or do you want to go back and lead it clean?" That's what we did. Thanks, Mike.
Jul 8, 2009
An exciting and varied route - highly recommended if you are comfortable at the grade. The opening traverse is a bit polished, adding to the excitement. I though the crux seemed fair at 5.9+, but I knew exactly how to do it from the MP beta, so that certainly made it easier. The pins were in good shape on 5/16/2009. Above the pin the climbing is easier, but don't expect much gear. I thought P2 was really fun. I clipped the bolt, and cranked into the offwidth. Good fun, but I enjoy a little squeeze now-and-then... particularly with a bolt :) I opted for the left P3 finish, and thought it was a dud. I won't be repeating that finish again. Easy to take this pitch all the way to the top.
May 16, 2009
I thought that this was the worst "good" route I've climbed in Eldo.
Jul 15, 2008
This was the second route I ever climbed, on the first day I ever climbed. This was back in '67 when we had no harnesses or belay devices--it was quite an adventure. Been hooked and climbing ever since.
Nov 23, 2007
8/9/07 was a fun send. Cops blocked off the road to Eldo for a race- ran for 20min. w/ light rack + rope. Oh and a case of PBRs- which we deposited @ Kev's and Bodey's place. Started climbing @ ? 8:45pm. Rack I lead on 1st pitch in order: -Pin; -Pin; -#5 RP (BD); skipped bolt anchor- did clip inset piton-w/ double length runner. After a pigeon flew out the crack right in my face. - Bolt; to the 2 bolt anchor belay. Now it's dark. 2nd pitch: -piton @ 5.7 move, 5 pigeons chillin' right w/ that pin, had a quick chat w/ them and decided to back pin up w/ that #5 RP I used earlier in case birds freak out. Top out. Done dark style.
Aug 10, 2007
What a great way to finish off the day. We did the crack that continues straight up past the pins through the thin crack. Never even realized that the route went left at the second pin. It did feel harder than 9+ so it makes sense. The squeeze chimney was a little intense... they aren't my favorite. The simple top out pitch was cool, too.
Sep 26, 2006
This is a superb climb, and IMHO one of the finest 9s in Eldo. If you need exposure fast, this is the route for you. Two moves off the trail, and you have much exposure. Combining P1 and P2 makes for one hell of a good pitch with a little bit of everything. I am 5'8" and felt the crux at the second pin on P1 to be quite tricky, the off-width section was wild. I'm a fan of OWs, so I went for it using off-width technique, which did not last long before I figured out that there is a little trick to keep everything at 5.9-. I think that if you go with pure OW on this section, you will get a little more than 5.9.
Aug 14, 2006
We finished by stepping down and left to the last pitch of Outer Space (inobvious as a first-timer on this route, but highly recommended).
Feb 28, 2006
Fun route, the beginning traverse is a bit hairy but protects well. A bolt at the chimney eases the fact that your forgot to bring really big gear once again...
Oct 18, 2005
The chockstone on P2 was on vacation at a trundling party in the Tien Shan. It has now resituated itself in the chimney.
Jun 22, 2005
The chock stone on pitch 2 is gone. Enjoy.
Jul 28, 2004
After 4 times on the route, I still think the P1 crux is one of the hardest in Eldo! Delicate feet. Anyway, my point is really that, on P3, there are 3 ways to go, right after the rotten band. Far left is the funky 5.7 thing, to the far right is a loose committing 5.8+ (as was already mentioned), but I recommend the middle option: straight up the middle crack above you. 5.9. A great stopper placement right before the moves over the top should give some encouragement...after tiptoeing through that rotten, crappy red band. (NOTE--There are a couple of VERY loose blocks in that but, then again, this IS Eldo, God love her!). Have fun!
Jun 24, 2004
Instead of traversing left at the second piton I went straight up the crack(following chalk marks) and onto the face(5.10). Stout and pumpy, yet fun and a bit heady. The gear is there, but one must be a little creative in placing it. Crimp/layback the flake on the second pitch, chicken wing the chimney. Traversing left at the piton is a bit confusing, hence the crack above. Well worth doing.
May 28, 2004
Sooooo good!!!!!
Feb 5, 2004
Another way to do the start of the 10a direct: Right foot to a small put positive hold up and left from the pin. Right hand to a good sidepull in the crack, just above the brass nut/small stopper you should have placed. Left foot up to big hold. Rock ontol left foot. You can climb much higher on this variation than the beta photo indicates before escaping left to join the regular route. Where you escape left depends on how far you are willing to run it out on 5.8 or so climbing.
Sep 27, 2003
Agree with Jay and Charles regarding the step left at the beginning of the (10a) variation on P1. I used it, as it offered more leverage for the crank up and thru. Easier (10a) move though than say...the crux of Blind Faith. IMO this climb favors those high on the ape index, especially at that move, as well as the one down below in the lower crack.The (9) move at the bolt on P2 into the chimney is pretty wild...I stepped high with the left foot and layed that bitch back. Not a gimme layback either...kinda flared out and down sloping rock, so I stemmed way out with the right foot, and then shifted my left side & inserted the left leg in the off-width. One of the weirdest moves I've done in awhile. Once in the OW, work over to a nice chockstone & shimmey up 8' to the belay ledge. Hellova fun climb...lots of variety.
Aug 19, 2003
Beta on the 5.10 variation: There are two ways that I know of to get into the the crack above the tricky 5.9 crux. 1) (hard way) grab those huge juggs to the right after the 5.9 crux, work your feet up in the thin seem---lock off, and grab a really shitty hold in the crack. you now have really shitty hands and no feet to get the rest position. 2) (easier, less obvious way) instead of grabing the juggs to the right, step left a foot or two (or three??) and balance your way up to the crack with better feet.
Feb 18, 2003
The crux is harder than anything on Hair City. The offwidth on the second pitch is quite a wake-up call too, when you realize you can't remember how to climb OW's any more. Liebacking past it may be the easiest way, but is this cheating?
Oct 7, 2002
I climbed this on 7/4 and both pins are still at the crux on the first pitch. An old ring pin is at the end of the hand traverse (about a foot above the holds in the start of the crack ) and the other one is a LA at your waist for the crux move. it is easy to place a back-up piece near the first pin. You do not need much gear for any of the pitches and emphasize on smaller stuff. Also a #4 cam is nice before you clip the bolt on the OW pitch.casey bernal
Jul 8, 2002
after the traverse after the crux be prepared to get creative with gear (i placed nothing bigger than a red alien on the first pitch)....anyways the climbing is easy but the path of least resistance does require thought, as the easiest way wanders a bit
Jun 23, 2002
There's also a variation to the second pitch that is pretty fun. Climb up, clip the bolt and traverse on thin holds out right to the arete (awkward/a little airy/scary) then climb up the face. It's about .8+, so it's a bit easier than the normal route. It's also a little more interesting. Quick note on the pins on the first pitch. One of them is missing as of this fall. I think it was the lower one but I could be wrong. It is possible to back up the pin with gear however.
Feb 4, 2002
Another great variation for the 3rd pitch is to take the right side roof, which is actually West Face route. I thought is was the better one of the three choices, all of which end up in the same place. But a word of warning, just when you start up into the roof, theres a horn sticking out that is a must to make the move... it EXTREMELY lose and sounds like its about to snap. Other then that, its an awesome pitch!
Jan 1, 2001
Escalar - Going straight up after the initial crux makes for an even better pitch. It might be .10a/b or so. It is well protected--better protected than going off to the left. It is also nice to do the "direct start", starting under the initial traverse at the bolt. It is not as hard as it looks especially if you are tall, but it does involve a long reach--solid 5.10. Combining these variations makes a superb, direct line up a beautiful wall.
Jan 1, 2001
- West Face
Updated the "beta photo". Reading the description and comments here, I was pretty confused about the variations when I went to lead this a few days ago. "The 5.10 section", "the 5.11 start", "the 5.10a bulge", "getting on the slab (5.10a/b)", "the 10c way", "the 11a/b way", "the 11b variation", "direct start via thin crack (5.10c/d)", "the 11b straight up variation", "the 10a/b bulge".... After getting on it: -Direct start: just right of the start to Hair City, climb the thin crack straight up from the lowest point just right of Hair City. (I found this solid 5.10-5.10+. Levin calls it 5.11a.) There was a fixed nut on this crack. -Indirect start begins further right and traverses left onto the ledge above the direct start crack. (Silly, I think, the direct is totally worthwhile). -Then climb cracks to the bulge. Decision time: -Keep right through the bulge at 5.11a (or b or whatever) -Or step left 5.10a (or b or whatever). Here you can go left right away to a bolt to bail onto Hair City or back right to continue up West Face. There is good pro up to that decision point, then hard to place through the crux, but there are a couple very good placements. Also a pretty clean fall if needed (I did). There is a lot of climbing in this short bit via the direct start through the bulge! Edit July 2016, worked on the direct variation staying in the crack today, not moving left... kind of a greasy feeling day on all routes today. Felt 5.11b in my book.
Jun 17, 2015
Climbed the first pitch today. After the 10a/b bulge, I stayed climber's right and found fairly easy climbing with descent gear. Set up a below behind the big pillar next to a fixed pin. Since we didn't find any bolts, we left a nut to back up the pin and rapped from there to the ground.
Oct 20, 2014
Awesome route that is entertaining the whole way. That bent over pin at the bulge crux is suspect as it's probably had multiple whippers on it and is deserving of being backed up. The 11b straight up variation exceeded my leading mojo, but moving left was way fun.
Aug 9, 2013
West Face Double Direct, 5.11a PG. Take direct start via thin crack (5.10c/d) to a stance. Climb dual cracks to the bulge (pin, small gear) and instead of stepping left, continue up and slightly right. Another crux is encountered at the pin which can be backed up with a 1" cam. Great moves on good holds. Continue 25 more feet to a stance. I didn't find a bolted anchor where Levin indicates. I didn't continue up so was forced to rap off two stoppers. They are yours, or leave them for others. Excellent route!
Sep 22, 2012
Why so little mention of the 11b variation? It's very fun: exposed, and a bit bouldery.
May 15, 2009
Wow, great route but I also had a harder time with the bulge than the thin crack start. Did the start clean even after plugging up the good finger lock with a yellow Alien but, got worked on the bulge!! I don't know if it was trying to fiddle with gear or just not wanting to commit over those bent ass pins or what but after reading these comments I for sure have to go back an redeem myself!!! Good fun stuff though! I friggin' love Eldo!!
Jul 3, 2008
I thoroughly enjoyed this route. Classic Eldo style in running 'er out on smaller gear. There is a tricky blue TCU placement from a steep stance right below a broken knifeblade that enabled me to proceed through the crux, with a little caution.
Sep 2, 2007
My [friends] and I have been on this pitch at least three different times. It is a great climb. The 10c way is fun, but the 11a/b way is much better. For us the moves are beta intensive. At first it felt much harder than 11, but after working (read TR) it into submision it still is very hard for us, but we can do it on TR. John did manage to get it with one hang at the crux pin. The pin has held us on [several] falls and you can back it up with a good cam a foot below. The problem is that we cannot put in any more pro until we a standing on the small sloping ledge four feet above the pin. That puts fear in me. We finish by going [straight] up above two more pins and staying just left of the chimney. I also agree that the 5.11a start is very easy for its grade. Very nice moves.
Aug 11, 2005
I followed the West Face first pitch and struggled at the bulge. The 5.11 start was difficult, however, I had a harder time getting around the 5.10a bulge, getting onto the slab (5.10a/b), then moving right. Good, balancy moves over good air made this pitch exciting.
Jul 5, 2004
I did it on Saturday with my girlfriend, who is short, small fingered, and very strong (X-gymnast). Here's what it boils down to- I though it was incredibly easy at the grade, she thought it was very hard (she has done other 11's). We dissected what occurred when we returned to the base. As usual, it's all about sequence- one move ...if you get it right. Not to sandbag or downplay that Steve can climb circles around me, but I don't think the edges are marginal at all- if your feet are in the right place (not the big holds) then the hands you use are all pretty positive, and I did it in the direct sun in the afternoon. Then I went and felt desperate on Supremacy Crack...
Jun 30, 2003
It's possible to avoid crossing over to Hair City by staying right above the last pin at the 5.10 section and climbing up to the chimney on the right side of the giant flake (5.7s). I did not see the bolt Rossiter shows in his topo for this secton but the climbing is pretty straight forward. Both pitches are quite good, I'm not sure why it doesn't see more traffic...
Jul 25, 2002
For once, an 11a in Eldo that felt soft for the grade. Perhaps shorter stature and slenderer fingers might have been an advantage....
Jun 16, 2002
- West Side aka West Chimney
This is an interesting route with extremely varied climbing and none of the bird droppings mentioned above. Start of the first pitch is 50 feet of 5.5-6 crack that protects well. The traverse left is on questionable rock, but there are many opportunities for protecting with small stoppers. Best to traverse left on this pitch until you see the not-easy-to-see piton, and climb up from there. The 20 feet of offwidth on the next pitch is 5.5, but unless you bring a #9 Valley Giant or a #3 Bigbro, it’s not protectable. #5-6 Camalots don’t really do the job. To locate the traverse to the right, climb up the crack, which is past the offwidth, until it really steepens and see an old piton on the traverse to the right. The traverse is fun with gaping exposure. There are two pitons on the traverse, but the second is bent, and I was unable to clip it Petzl Star carabiner. The traverse ends in a cave on Blind Faith. Best to belay from there and not run out the pitch—for obvious reasons: communication with the second and rope drag.
Jul 11, 2016
Echoing the comments of some others: Not really difficult climbing and not a bad route (overall), but P1's 30 feet of traversing on broken, movable rock over not-so-great pro detracts from the fun of this one. There were plenty of jutting flakes with Xs on them today and plenty more that moved when touched that should have had Xs.... P2 is considerably more entertaining.
Jul 4, 2016
Had a surprisingly really fun time on this climb. The 5.6 rotten traverse was exciting with a mediocre cam 20' below, but if you are patient and seek out good rock, it is (kind of) there. I thought it was exciting. Otherwise, the fat crack was fun, and the 5.8 corner w/ perfect hand jams and a sweet move around the corner was great. Recommend doing if you can overcome the scary rock on the first pitch.
Nov 1, 2015
Followed this today and saw not a single pigeon or a drop of bird poop, which was odd considering the ever-present swallows. (Have swallows replaced the pigeons?) Didn't encounter much loose rock either. This is a good, varied climb--never boring! And much of it was in the shade. A pretty interesting alternative to Bastille Crack, if you're feeling impatient and don't want to wait in line.
Jul 10, 2014
Really fun route overall, much better than the above description makes it out to be. Definitely do the 5.8 variation on P2! With that you'll get fingers, hands, offwidth, a roof, and some cool, delicate rotten band climbing over the course of the route. Great exposure and variation, you just need a little sense of adventure!
Apr 12, 2014
~200' of a route, with 50' of good climbing (5.5), then 30' of terrible climbing (5.6+), then 120' of good climbing again (with the 5.8 variation). A #6 protects the offwidth at the start of pitch 2 pretty well (about 5.5), though you'd need something bigger to have a perma-top-rope. For the 30' of terrible climbing, here's a hint: the lower route is better rock overall, but only slightly. Not a great lead for tentative or learning leaders.
Mar 17, 2014
Don't know why people are bagging on this route. Sure, there's bird crap from time to time, but isn't that just part of the Eldo Experience? I think it's a great route for someone who is not climbing 5.10 crack but is comfortable with the run-out, loose nature of the red band as you find on P1. It's a nice summit route, and the lower and upper portions (aka Blind Faith) are really fun and protect well.
Jul 19, 2011
+1 for birds flying in my face. I stood up in the crack on the second pitch and birds were right in front of me. I held on tightly while they ran into me and the wall for probably 10 seconds before they found their way out. Poor birds! While there were a few fun moves on this route, the combination of the terrifying choss at the end of the first pitch, the run out at the beginning of the second pitch, and the birds flying into me, made this a route I don't recommend. I stayed left, and climbed the 5.8 crack on the second pitch, out of fear of encountering more choss (I could see that the 5.8 had good gear). I'd recommend staying left, because the moves were fun and well protected.
Jun 29, 2011
Overall, just another mediocre route on the Bastille; my climb notes stated: "Not one that needs frequent repetition." Almost, but not quite, a bomb.
Mar 12, 2011
This route would be a typical Eldo forgettable moderate for me at best. Well it sure kicked my ass once in the form of weird timing at 13 years of age. I got the stomach flu and puked my way up the climb. It is the hardest climb to this day I've done in Boulder!
Jun 3, 2008
Climbed this Sat. Definitely a decent route, great exposure, and quality rock except for the traverse. There is a good fixed pin on the traverse if you go far enough. At least twice I was tempted to go straight up to the ledge, but my gear was iffy and so was the rock, so I continued traversing and found a good pin. P2 was more exciting as we did not follow the route description very well. After the OW we continued straight up (no traverse) following the crack system. It steepens, then you must move around right and up to stay in the crack system. You automatically merge with Blind Faith/West Chimney after that. The gear is good and the rock is excellent. Felt like 8+ or 9 for a few moves.
Jun 2, 2008
There is some very good climbing in the initial right angling crack (though I thought pretty stout in places for 5.5). Not for the beginning 5.5 leader. However, I would not repeat this climb because for me the traverse left on pitch one and the moves up to the belay are just too dangerous for my liking. All those flakes jutting out look so tempting to grab but I was fearful the whole way that at any time the holds would come off. (A few even moved when I started to weight them). Anyways, it is an adventure and gives you great views and expose, just be super careful. If you do climb it I would also suggest a couple of extra pieces in the 1-2 cam size range.
Apr 22, 2008
The correct name for this route is "West Side", a name used since the 1967 High Over Boulder.
May 15, 2007
Oh man. That traverse under the gnarly-looking, right-facing dihedral on P1 was horrendous. I didn't trust any of my gear placements and I was fearful that my hand holds would simply pop off. Aiding up Blind Faith probably would have been safer than this crappy traverse. As far as the off-width, I didn't bother with it. The face climbing to the right was much easier. Unfortunately, the biggest cam I had was a number 3, and that went in right below the crack. The rest I ran out. In fact, I only managed to get in two pieces from the diversion of the route from Blind Faith to the top of the off width. Spicy.
Nov 3, 2005
Just climbed this route for the first time today, with a group of three even. First of all, it is a much less secure 5.7 than the Bastille Crack. The traverse after the first part of Blind Faith leads you to one of the many angled rock layers. This traverse has rather crappy gear, but if you stay low until it nearly intersects the upper crack/ramp, you are rewarded with a fairly new piton near your feet. Climb straight up from there and get a small cam in a crack through the rotten, red rock. If you were lucky enough to still have some cams in the #2-#3 [Camalot] range, you can build an anchor on this larger part of the ledge. If not, you can traverse right to a smaller crack that eats nuts and small cams. I had nothing that would fit the offwidth above, so I opted for the deeply inserted left leg style of climbing this section. Your second will enjoy staying out of the offwidth and instead stepping on dainty footholds on the slab. After the offwidth, there is a large boulder perched at the top of the crack. I went around right andplaced my first piece of P2 in a crack behind it. Go up above into the continuing crack about 20ft where good gear awaits. At the traverse right, you will see a ring piton that is easily clipped before committing to the traverse. A second piton can also be clipped while into he traverse. Rope drag for me was insane up above this, so be careful of that. You'll come to a small cave above the traverse. Instead of going straight up out of the cave, look around to the face out and left and see a nice spot for a mid size cam. The rest of the climb tapers off in difficulty and route finding tasks. No birds nesting. -Tim Stich
Jul 10, 2005
I've done this one twice. It is good in parts, however both times that I've been on this there has been a ton of bird poop and birds. All of the doo doo is concentrated at the second pitch crux. The smell up there was so foul that I did not want to stop to place pro. Plus the last time I climbed it I thought that I was going to be attacked by the two pigeons that flew out of their perch right when my face was even with them. Other than that, the climb is good.
Apr 15, 2005
That's an impressive "first-lead-ever" and not really one that I'd recommend as such. One thing worth mentioning is that the 2nd pitch is a good alternative to the 2nd pitch of Blind Faith (up & left from the belay and joining it just above the OW). As P2 of Blind Faith is a bit dodgey at dusk, there is no fixed rap anchors atop P1, and they didn't know about the West Chimney, Beth chose the dubious descent route toward the right.
Aug 13, 2003
I agree that this climb is much better than the description suggests. P1 is a good warm up with steep climbing on big holds, mildly runout. P2 offers a fun, easy OW, a steep corner, a delicate step around move, and a fun chimney finish. It also pretty much rounds out the difficulty gamut for Bastille climbing. Worth doing!
Aug 13, 2003
I did this climb as my first on-sight lead last night. I think Richard Rossiter's guidebook understates how far left and up you need to traverse on the first pitch. There is a little green shrub at the base of the "right-leaning, right-facing dihedral with a wide crack" that can be easily spotted from the ground. Look for that to get an idea of how far left and up you need to go before you start. The crux was excellent and had a couple of very "balancy" moves on it - nothing extraordinarily difficult, but great fun with a lot of air beneath you. IMHO, I think Chris has done this route a disservice with his evaluation above. While it certainly has a lot of pigeon shit on it (and pigeons that can scare the shit of you as they fly out of their roost) in a couple of spots, the route has some excellent features: + Off width crack that is good for beginners + Varied moves - balancing, traversing, chimney (second pitch), layback. All in all, I think this route should be upgraded to two stars. I am definitely going back.
Aug 13, 2003
One more thought on this route: it's got clean crack climbing, a funky loose rock traverse (P1), an easy roof (again P1, but maybe we were a bit off route), an off width, and an airy traverse. I thought it was different and well worth it. And except for the OW, I thought the pro was all there.
Aug 5, 2002
Doing this route yesterday, my partner and I gave the first pitch a 5.5++, and the finishing pitch a 5.7++ (rather than the 5.5, 5.7 of the guidebook). I wish I'd read George's comments to bring big gear--leading out for pitch two and finding my #4 Camalot not up to the task made me glad this was not one of my first outings of the year. Other than being, IMHO, a sandbag, this was a very fun and varied route.
Jun 10, 2002
Check out Pete's account of this accident on members.aol.com/ptakeda1/wr… He does not give details on exactly where they were. This is just the easiest route on this face and I was assuming they were downclimbing it, but I don't really know.
Feb 12, 2002
If I'm not mistaken, the aforementioned party did not attempt to downclimb West Chimney, but had climbed P1 of Blind Faith and from the belay ledge opted to traverse unroped right and off on the downsloping rotten band/ledge. There is one lower 5th class move with 30-40 feet of exposure on this downclimb, and the rock is poor.
Feb 12, 2002
I remember this route being better than Chris indicates. It also contains (on pitch 2) one of the few "easy offwidth" cracks around. If you are leading at your limit, you might need some big gear to protect this well. On a historical note, I believe it was this route that was downclimbed (in error) by Beth Coates and Pete Takeda. Beth fell and is now paralyzed from the waist down. Be careful!
Feb 11, 2002
- Your Mother
Just went up this route yesterday-- terrific! Holds feel a bit creaky, but nothing came out on me. Side note-- the last bolt before the anchors looks quite loose, probably due to more than a few whippers. Could use a little love next time someone is up there.
Oct 19, 2015
Wow, this route is really fun. I had for some reason or another overlooked this route even though I wanted to do it years ago. Great flowly climbing on mostly jugs to a really fun finish and huge whip potential. Sack up and take the whip, it's really exciting with stellar position. I'm just plain impressed.
Jul 12, 2014
Did the FA on August 1, 1988. On a historical note, I am pretty sure that this was the first new route put up in Eldo with the bolts being placed with the aid of a power drill (Bosch Bulldog).
Jul 27, 2012
An interesting debate at the ACE site. Colin stated directly that the bolt in question was a mistake but many said it added to the "character" of the route. Thanks Matt for at least offering to fix the problem.
Oct 25, 2008
Great way to finish any route on the Bastille. I do it almost every time I climb up there.
Oct 17, 2008
Thanks for the replacement work. I've been trying this route a bit lately. It is way hard to clip that last draw. I just skip it, but alas I fell reaching for the anchor anyhow. I'll go back and get it next time. The last bolt seems further away than all the previous ones. It makes sense to me to move it down 16 inches or so. Good idea!
Jul 25, 2008
Classic Eldo-style sport climbing at its best. The position is spectacular. This route gets right to the point in a short distance.
Jul 26, 2005
I just wanted to thank the jerk(s) who stole my bottom two draws. Too bad you weren't strong enough to steal the rest!
Jun 9, 2003
Willem, feel free to change that last sticky biner up there. Be warned that everything goes back with me when I take my draws down :) So, please replace it with a Petzl bent gate!
May 29, 2003
FYI...the last in situ draw has a sticky carabiner. I will replace it next time I am up there, but how do people feel about a wire gate?
May 24, 2003
Careful up there. The larger of the two holds by the 5th bolt is crunching and creeking so loud that your belayer can hear it. I had my doubts- I tried to work the crimper next to it and couldn't pull the move that way. Eventually, I got pumped and yarded on it anyway. It did hold me, but I would approach it with caution, if I tried again. I think it is also the 5th bolt that is almost shattered out as well. There is no danger of hitting the ground if it were to pull, but you might get slapped in the head with a chunk of rock.
Aug 13, 2002
For full entertainment value, after sending the route lower off and down-clean the draws- at the lowest bolt have your belayer give you a touch of slack and then let go...good training for Elitch's Amusement Park. PS The perfect place to be for late afternoon sun.
Apr 3, 2002
Spectacular route on beautiful stone. Good moves that are actually quite moderate lead you to a painfully tough throw at the end. Fun route with great fall when you miss the crux move!!!
Mar 27, 2002
- Cadillac Crag
- Auburn Court
Fun, I think it goes left at the top block (as shown in the pic). It didn't seem harder than the first pitch of Auburn.
May 29, 2011
Two #3 Camalots are useful on this one.
Mar 13, 2011
Definitely the best finish to Auburn Lane. Watch for rope drag if linking with Auburn Lane as a single 150' pitch.
Apr 28, 2007
- Auburn Lane
Save a #3 for the roof.
Mar 14, 2015
Rossiter's book lists this as 10d, but I agree with Levine's new book as 10b. Super solid gear all the way.
Jul 12, 2011
Good first 5.10. One 5.10 move, well protected with a micro cam or 2 or maybe an RP. Easier if you're tall (over 6 ft).
May 28, 2011
I agree with Tony, this is one of the easiest 10s that I have done in Eldo. Maybe one move of 10a on this one with great pro.
Mar 12, 2011
Regarding the 1.5-move wonder comments, the variation Auburn Court (posted separately on the Cadillac pages) offers quite a few more good moves, making this a much more sustained and interesting route.
Jan 27, 2008
Agree with the others: a clear 1 1/2 move wonder. However, still worth doing if you're in the area since the rest of the climb is pleasant if easy. Fell at the crux leading it a few years back -- redeemed myself yesterday. An excellent start/warmup for Stargate.
Jul 21, 2007
Did this today while waiting for Moonlight Drive to open up and found it to be a worthwhile route. As stated above, the route is definitely a one or two move wonder. The 5.9 dihedrals and roof above are really very good and would get 3 stars anywhere else in the canyon. The huge loose rocks at the top are scary. Definitely worth doing!
Oct 16, 2005
This climb is a lot better if you take the variation called Auburn Court, which adds about 35 feet of quality crack climbing and a second crux (and avoids the rubble at the top). We should have listed it as a variation here, but it's posted as a separate route on this site.
Jun 9, 2003
I thought this was an okay route. Crux is extremely brief (maybe one move) I could not tell any difference in rating between the first and second pitches. The top of the route is loose rock hell for anyone not being extremely careful. I did both Morning Thunder and Over the Hill in the last couple of weeks and think both of those routes are harder than this. IMHO if it is even a 5.10, it would barely make 5.10a and only for one very brief move.
Jun 8, 2003
Slightly chossy in places, with a very brief crux. Seems like a 10d move, though it's over quickly. Second pitch would be nice with a little traffic to clean it. The belay area at the top is loaded with precarious rocks ready to fall down into the dihedral - caution or hats advised, and I would steer well clear if another party is up there. Not the worst route in the world, but if you're at Cadillac and craving some 5.10 crack... you walked just a bit too far up the hill.
Oct 3, 2001
- Black Face
Thin, committing, and a bit scary.
Oct 2, 2002
Yes there is a 12 move at the top. the seq is not obvious, but if i remember there is a small left hand crimp with a long reach to a half-pad two-finger sloper...sounds good huh? Rossiter puts up fun routes...
Jan 1, 2001
- Brand New Cadillac
youtube.com/watch?v=Z2WXlaW…
Mar 13, 2015
Great route! Similar in style, difficulty, quality, and excitement to Aerospace. I don't think it deserves an "R" rating, although a fall getting to the third bolt could suck (you wouldn't deck, but the slabby arete below could make things awkward). The gear between the 2nd and 3rd bolt is bomber, I used a purple Camalot. I did the whole thing as one pitch, up to the bolts atop the fin, which was great. Rack: Single set of cams to #1 Camalot, some med/lg stoppers, a few long slings. -Scott
Oct 19, 2009
I got on this route yesterday (9/6/02) and found it to be an Eldorado gem. It has masterful slab climbing with a stunning postion. Though the crux is runout that only made it better. Please, don't add any bolts to this line. It is perfect as it is. An extra bolt would only cheapen an ascent.
Sep 8, 2002
I left a wire draw on the third bolt last weekend, but it still seems run out to me now. I guess 16 years and 30 pounds does make a difference. I used a large stopper in the crack between the 2nd and 3rd bolts which looked pretty solid. I'd have no objection if someone wanted to add a bolt.
Aug 26, 2002
- Bro'd Less Traveled, The
- Deviant
The overlap makes this a little more tricky, and the rising nature keeps you off balance but still 5.9 imo. Be quick about dinking in pro.
Oct 9, 2012
Tony, Jay, I couldn't agree more. This route isn't about a single move crux, so momentum, energy, confidence, and how much you've climbed so far that day could certainly make it feel pretty different.
Mar 13, 2012
Hi Ben, Yeah- BUSTED on my part. Just goes to show that you can climb a route a few times and come back with different opinions. The comments were written in 2001/2002. Since that time I've redone the route and adjusted my own opinion and added a 'grade' to the route of 10a. As you may know, the grade rating for routes feature was not even available in 2001/2002 on MP.com... Anyway, it's a great illustration of how subjective grades are, even to a single person. Perhaps Jay's comment immediately above is the best rating explanation available anyway. "5.9+" Rather that realign things here, I will leave them as is for exactly that reason/illustration. Have a good one out there and be safe!
May 29, 2011
Maybe I was having a good day, but it felt 5.9 and way easier than I had anticipated. I am not one to downgrade routes normally. Most Eldo 9's feel difficult! I went with the traditional 9+ rating because I don't want anyone to feel sandbagged.
May 28, 2011
Ahh, Eldo 5.9+. I love this: Tony Bubb rates it 5.10a after saying "... honest at its grade..." and "..hard end of 5.9, but still .9 in my opinion..." AND Jay Eggleston rates it 5.9+ while saying "... one of the easier 9s in Eldo...." And the funniest part? I agree!! (since 5.9+ is often harder than 5.10a).
May 28, 2011
One of the easier 9s in Eldo. There is a great horizontal rail halfway up that provides a great rest. There are holds for the feet throughout the climb if you look for them and have good edging shoes. Very fun and easy to "sew up".
Aug 20, 2009
The first pitch of Gonzo and Deviant string together quite nicely, about 180 feet I'd say.
Jun 10, 2007
This was my very first 5.9 lead, and it was simply spectacular!!! For me the crux was the last two thirds of the route because my fore arms were just "PUMPED" . I even took my first lead fall on this one---SAVED by a red Alien---!! The route is very easy to protect and a beautifull straight forward line which is why i chose it as my first 9. Stoppers and small cams are the way to go here I think I placed a 1.5 camalot right before I popped off near the middle but that was the biggest one I plugged. Led V3 after this and felt like I was in "easy heaven"!!!
Oct 15, 2003
I loved this route! We did the first pitch of Gonzo then finished on Deviant. I think this route is very hard (but safe) for the grade - I have done many of the "classic" 5.9's in Eldo and found this to be more continuous and sustained than most routes at the grade. It is short, but feels like a lot of climbing for it's length, one of the most interesting 30 feet of climbing I have done in a while! Enjoy!
Oct 6, 2003
An excellent crack climb that is different from the usual Eldo style...it has no feet on the face and only one semi rest--excellent finger locking.
Jul 17, 2003
The grade felt right on to me. Compared to other 5.9's/5.10a's in Eldorado, 5.9+ seems accurate. Quite pumpy throughout with nice finger jams.
Jun 23, 2003
Sirens of Titan is softer than a feather pillow, so it's not very fair to use that as a comparison, or almost all of the Eldo 5.9s are 5.10s... It's harder than The Bat and Auburn Lane as well, but that doesn't make it 5.11...those are just super-soft routes (at 5.10d?!??!) Touch and Go, The Green Spur, P1 of Yellow Spur, C'est La vie, P1 of Tagger, , etc... those are the yardstick 5.9s in my book, and to what I would compare Deviant. It is tough, and on the hard end of 5.9, but still .9 in my opinion. YMMV.-Tony Bubb
Oct 3, 2002
Tough for the grade. I found it to be harder than a number of the classic low 10s in the Canyon, and it is miles beyond what should be a comparable route: the 5.9 leaning crack just right of Prince of Darness (called Sirens of Titan, I think). Good fun, but the leaning position and uneven nature of the crack make it a real challenge.
Oct 3, 2002
This climb is on the cover of Rossiter's Eldo guide....
Oct 2, 2002
A classic Eldo 9+ that would otherwise be rated 10b were it located just about any where else. Aliens are the call on this route...as you will not want to hang out fiddling with nuts. To bad it does not go on for another 100 feet...
Aug 18, 2002
I found the route honest at its grade. Nice rock, nice moves, nice setting. If it were a multi-pitch it would qulify for classic status. My partner lead it and found it difficult to plac the protection due to the right-hand overlap of the crack combined with the fact that it leans left. This may be why stoppers are good, but hard to place without a pump. A 1" cam is the crux pro- one of my cams now has a broken cross bar to prove it (Thanks, Mark).
Oct 16, 2001
- Easy Street
As Michael suggests, combining this with Ghetto Cruiser makes for an enjoyable 160' linkup. I was able to keep the ropedrag to a tolerable level using a double length sling on the traverse (which protects well with a blue TCU). The anchor bolts look okay, but the bolt hangers and sun-bleached tat is in bad shape (9/03). A good service project to the climbing community would be to replace these with 1/2" stainless hangers and eliminate the webbing rat's nest/eyesore. An alternative to the double-rope rap mentioned is 2 single rope raps. First one takes you to a large tree in between Fins 1 and 2 (the first belay for Ichiban Arete). Second one gets you to the ground.
Sep 21, 2003
- Emission Control
This is a fun and worthwhile route, but it is not sustained. The crux is probably pulling onto the face. Save a #2 and 0.5 for the horizontal about 2/3 of the way up.
Mar 10, 2016
Bolt upgraded 05/17/2015.
May 17, 2015
A pretty good route. The crux is protected by a bolt, making it 5.10d, 5.7 R.
Nov 14, 2007
- Escalade
A very good climb that needed a little more cleaning. I inadvertently gave it just that. A handhold snapped and in the course of trying to recover my balance, I sheared off a delicate foothold & took a pretty good fall. Joseffa broke a loose one off following, too. The resulting edges are better than the originals, and this was well below the crux, so the grade was not effected. The worst pro on the route is a "good" #1 RP next to a blue Alien in a so-so horizontal. This protects against what might otherwise be a long and dangerous fall from the crux. Then a 1.5-2" cam may be placed in the middle of the crux, which I actually found to be a bit powerful, but on good enough holds so as to be easier than the climbing down lower where the less comforting gear was. After pulling the last roof/bulge (big moves on good holds) you get run-out quite a bit unless you take a #4 Camalot for behind the big flake up top. Beware that if you climb the flake on the outside (lie-back style) that the top right section of it is detached, so don't pull too had unless you want to take a big fall. Past the flake you can run it clear to the top for a nearly 200' single pitch. One of the best things about it is its 'improbability' as the book puts it. The climb keeps looking like it will get very hard or impossible, but at each critical juncture gives you just enough of something to keep it 5.10. Overall, the route was modestly rated for quality by the FA party. It is fun moves on interesting rock and deserves at least 3 stars.
May 1, 2010
- Evening Stroll
- Flash Cadillac
Bolt upgraded on 05/30/2015. (Needs to be added to the MP database here.) Bolt hanger and Rawl from Flash Cadillac, others from Trail of Tears.
May 30, 2015
- Ghetto Cruiser
This route was way cool! I thought given the two star rating that it would be junky. I think if you bail left toward the tree, you are basically bailing before the slightly overhanging and fun crux.
Sep 17, 2011
This route is a nice warm up to start your day. It faces southeast and is one of the first lines on Cadillac to get sun. Sling gear long at the top of the corner, so you can traverse on to Easy Street and the bolt anchors. They were rigged with a long cordelette in good condition yesterday which made it possible to rap to the tree at the start of Ichiban (and another rap to the ground).
Nov 29, 2010
Fun, fun, fun! One of my new favorites at the grade in Eldo. Good gear and a few tricky moves kept me thinking all the way. The short runout at the bulge where the crack ends briefly gave me some pause, but it's all there once you get moving. The steep roof was a hoot and is protected well by a #3 BD. As others have stated, rapping off seems more of a cluster than it's worth IMO. Just use the obvious walkoff.
Jun 28, 2010
Probably best to double rope rappel from the anchors, but I think you would be ok rapping from the back if you make sure to throw the cord over the top towards the backside. An adventurous route with a great view on top gets three stars from me. I guess I would say just to be careful with the large flakes at the crux, could become more flexible with time.
Aug 17, 2009
Surprisingly fun route. Not sure where you'd place the number 4. It is too small for all but the first few feet of the offwidth. More pleasant climbing is had in the dihedral to the left of the OW. Belaying just before heading up and left on the Easy Street ramp will prevent considerable rope drag and provide some shelter from gale force winter winds. The anchors are not well thought out. The two options are extending the anchors with long slings to lower to the bolts on the top of Untitled/Ichiban Arete and rapping from there or rap off the back and hike around.
Nov 24, 2008
Led this yesterday (9/30). Had only one rope and rapped off the back, then walked around. I concur with Kevin that I did not love the cord directly through the old-ish bolt/hangars as the profile on the hangars is very thin and 'sharp'. Couple quicklinks would do it (I woulda, but didn't have 'em).
Oct 1, 2007
The old bolts and hangers are still there. Because of where the bolts have been placed it requires good rope management and serious muscle to pull your rope. We rapped into the gully to the west and at the big tree/2nd rap station there was only a single sling with a leaver biner on it. At this date the sling is in good shape. The cord being used at the top is another matter. It is tied well but was pretty toasty. Being it is directly threaded through the old stamped hangers it is time to replace it. Just a couple of screw links through the hangers would help this anchor/rap station. To make this a well-oiled 2 raps to the ground you might consider: four small, screw links, 25' feet of 1" tube you can cut up and a couple of rap rings. The four links (or two links and two rap rings) and 10'(? maybe a little extra just in case) of the webbing for the top and the rings and the rest of the webbing at the big tree. Great pitch. But the rap, at least the way we did it, was as not good.
Aug 12, 2006
Did this route on [Thursday] and really wasn't expecting anything since its rated 5.7. This route felt more 5.8 to me near the top. But, I stayed in the dihedral the whole way. The gear placement is good and the route gets nice and steep. The moves felt quite commiting near the top! I think this route gets by with two stars.
Jan 22, 2005
We really wanted to climb V3 on Fin 4, but that was already taken. Rossiter doesn't give Ghetto Cruiser a star rating so I wasn't expecting much. But, this is a fun climb. I agree that it's an old school 5.7 rating. Getting up the steep slot is a little strenous with a committing move, but it's fun and the pro is there. I used a small pebble on the left wall to make that last move into the slot. We didn't continue up Easy Street, but scrambled back down to the base instead to see if V3 was available.
Sep 28, 2004
combined with easy street this is a great route, the summit is worth the sections of hollow flakes. the rap bolts are solid, the hangers are old homemade jobs, but they seem safe. pretty adventurey, lichen, chong-a-bong flakes and exposure near the top combine to give this a microneering feel. and yes, some of us like that over waiting in lines to climb classics......oh and the views are grand.
Dec 7, 2003
Just wanted to mention that the rappel anchors on the top are quite the museum pieces. If you're concerned, bring about 10-15 ft of webbing to tie around a horn on the summit to back them up. I've got an application in to replace them and it should be done by, say, December. Definitely string together Ghetto and Easy. Good times!
Oct 9, 2003
This route is memorable and old school 5.7. If the face to the left of the huge crack is taken, continuing the sunstained nature of the dihedral, an exciting route is had. the moves are [strenuous] and rewarding. Don't bear right to a tree but charge straight up to a slot. Above the slot is the ramp leading to Easy street and the summit. Finish with Easy Street for a two star route. A fine autumn climb with a SW orientation. The route description is kind of ambiguous, so here's the take on my line: start from a ledge above the talus slope on the SW face of Fin 1, above and to the right from the bottom of the colorful face. Traverse to the left toward the huge roof on an easy strata. A [right] facing corner shoots up before reaching the arete after about 15 feet. The start has dual cracks (the one on the right takes good gear) and the fun is stemming b/w these two...yippee...to a nice stance. Contemplate your future, your objective is the large slot between overhanging roof sections. You can work right and be below a wide fist crack that goes up to the right small roof and then work left under the roof to the large slot; or (recommended) continue straight up the corner, placing great gear in the crack before it ends. Place it well from your good stance because you will be forced out onto the face to work around the bulge and you might get pumped trying to place marginal gear when the crack resumes. This section is not for the meek. Your next rest and good gear is a stance and hand jam under the slot. Continue up the large slot, which is easy.
Nov 4, 2001
- Gonzo
Both pitches are great. Great stances and moves on the first and excellent jamming and crack work on the second. Leading the second pitch I had 4 #3s, 2 #2s, and a #4 and was able to sew it right up. I thought the whole crack was very secure, because you can always get a right foot.
Oct 11, 2016
2nd pitch is quite wide. Didn't have anything bigger than a single #2 Camalot. the jams were secure enough, but it was run out. Bring at least 2 #3s.
Apr 21, 2014
This route is great the upper pitch is pretty cruiser if you have large hands and the width reminds me of Supercrack. The route definitely seemed easier than V3.
Jul 17, 2012
Thought pitch 2 was harder than pitch 1 or V3. May have been b/c I left one of the #3 cams at the anchor and had to run it out in the upper section more than I'd like. Pitch 1 sews up, and with all the face holds, the "roof" isn't as hard as it looks.
Oct 2, 2010
Climbed this yesterday and thought the P2 off-hands/fist crack was harder than anything on P1, V3, or Ghetto Cruiser. 5.7? Hmmm...maybe for taller folks or those with big hands. I was burying my arms into that crack and never felt super secure with the jams. I thought the move to the reasonable stance just over halfway up the crack was pretty burly for 5.7. If you like to sew things up like I do, three #3s wouldn't hurt. P1 was excellent. Great finger crack with solid yet committing laybacks for a couple moves at the crux.
Jun 28, 2010
Gonzo is an excellent, sustained crack climbing route. Next to other 5.8 classics in Eldorado, such as the Long John Wall, Regguae, and Gambit, it easily holds its own and is actually 5.8 for more than just 5-10 feet. To squeeze even more crack climbing out of the route, one should crawl through the hole at the base of the climb (under the block between V3 and Gonzo, and start from inside. This will add ~10 feet more of beautiful laybacks.
Mar 23, 2009
I thought this route was fantastic. The second pitch tops out on an awful pile of stacked choss. The pitch diagonals quite a bit so the belayer is out of harm's way, but being on Deviant or anywhere in that vicinity while someone is up there would be a bad idea. For the average leader, I would suggest a single set of cams from thin fingers to hand size and doubles of #3 and #3.5 Camalots. Throw in a set of Stoppers and you should have no problems. Please leave that poor tree alone!
Jan 19, 2009
Pretty fun route with finger to hands to offwidth size. throwing that right leg into the leaning offwidth up top was awkwardly fun. A couple #3-3.5 Camalots for the top section make things G-rated. BUT all the loose rock above the route sucked. I ended up belaying from a tree maybe 15 feet above all the loose rock on top and kept worrying if my partner was gonna get taken out by the rope dislodging some death block. Yuck. Is there a better belay at top?
Nov 3, 2008
Climbed this Saturday, I thought it was better then V3 personally. ?One pitch, long runners, clip the tree to run the rope around the lip of the roof smoothly. A double rack especially in the 1-3.5 range is nice. I really enjoyed the second pitch which I had not done before as I had gone on Deviant in the past. Lots of good jambing in the hands/off hands/fists range. I thought the feet were great as we did this right after Deviant which in comparison is way thinner for the feet.
Sep 8, 2008
Don't place a lot of gear at the bottom, sling them well, and you'll be loving this as a one pitch route without the awkward belay. Two #2s and #3s were welcome, and I could've put in a #4.
Sep 7, 2008
Climbed 10.6.2007 with S. Costello. Tried this earlier this spring as one pitch and ran out of large pro on the wide 5.7. I would recommend doing the route as two short pitches 1) to avoid a lot of rope drag and 2) have a full rack of big pieces for the second pitch. Second pitch is especially cool--plenty of arm-jams but scanty feet in places. There is a great deal of choss at the top of the route--be VERY careful. On my earlier attempt, I managed to knock off a piece and gash the hand of a woman on the ground--if you're reading this, my sincere apology!
Oct 8, 2007
P1: The hard part is short (15-20') culminating in a classic tricky Eldo move to get out of the corner onto the first big ledge. P2: Felt very insecure for a non-crack climber -- I felt more secure leading P1 than following P2. My partner basically used 2 pieces on P2. Hand-sized cam about 10-15' above the belay and then an old blue Camalot (#3 or 4?) that he kept sliding all the way up the crack until almost at the top.
Jul 21, 2007
The BIG loose block/flake is still there-lookout! You may want a good directional on P1 at the top of the block and right at the bottom of the crack. Your belayer is about 30' from you horizontally at this point.
Aug 12, 2006
Did this route last weekend. I did the whole route in one pitch with no rope drag. I placed about 4 pieces o n the lower section and [found] that it was actually easier than the upper section. [Definitely] bring more than one 3 if you want protect it well. I had one 3 and had to run it out quite a bit. Also, at the beginning of the 2nd pitch there is a large loose block wedge in the crack. There is a chalk X marked on it. This block wobbles and is really loose. I had to climb around it making hte climb a little harder than usual. Give it a try and do it in one pitch. Spare the baby tree:)
Jul 22, 2005
The first pitch of this one is great, the crux feels spicy but protects very well with a red alien. I agree with the 5.8 rating, however compared to V3 (which is also a great route) this route is more difficult technically IMO. In short, take the hike (which is nothing compared to many approaches) and loose the crowds. enjoy!
Apr 4, 2005
I followed P1 and thought it was fun. I led P2 and thought it was horrid. The leaning crack made the entire pitch really uncomfortable and harder than most of the 5.8s that I've done. There are no rests and not much for feet. In one section the crack becomes too large for jamming adding to the spice. It looks to me like you have to do P2, I didn't see a way to retreat as some of the comments might suggest. I would love to lead P1 but I felt P2 was really awful. I probably won't climb this one again anytime soon. -jason
Nov 3, 2004
Don't even need the hexs. Just bring finger and big hand-sized cams. Don't even really worry about bringing the mid-size cams. Also, make your anchor immediately after the traverse so you aren't inclined to use the little tree as a belayer's personal anchor. No telling how long that thing will support people.A fun alternative to the walk-off and/or rapping: Walk north approximately 30' to a large downed pine tree. Downclimb the limbs of the dead tree, carefully placing feet on the limbs as close to the trunk as possible. Gets you RIGHT down to the bottom and a rather fun option as well!~Wm
Sep 24, 2004
You can get away with a single set of cam's for both pitches, if you bring hex's. The crack sucks them right off your rack.
Jan 12, 2004
watch for a really loose block in the crack on p. 2. there is chalk all over the top as testimony that people have pulled here before, but when you jam between the block and wall of the crack you move the block. After realizing how loose it was, i went out left around it, and that seemed harder than if you pulled on the block for sure, but id hate to rip it out on myself, get hurt, and ruin some poor bastard's day below.Contrary to this web site, i thought gonzo was nicer than V3.
Oct 20, 2003
A great route with two very distinct pitches. The finger crack under the traversing roof of pitch one looks a lot thinner from the ground than it really is and allows for some solid jams. The second pitch is sustained and by the end (at least for me) the crack was even to wide for a solid arm jam. Fun route though. If the approach was roadside it would be climbed everyday.
Jul 18, 2003
Did this today and agree with Brice W. that P2 (7) crack up high felt harder,more sustained, than the P1 crack at (8). Used arm bars in the wide crack up there, as there are no obvious holds to reach for and shakey stances for (7) climbing on P2. Nonetheless, a good route. I didn't like the looks of the start to the left of the boulder, so I opted for the same start as V3, to the right of the boulder. Once on top of this large rock, you can gain the Gonzo crack by traversing the top of the boulder and stepping across a void. I felt this protected better and was a fun start.
Jul 17, 2003
The first pitch felt easy for an Eldo 5.8. There is really only one hard move - and the gear is great for the whole pitch (it might be easier for fat-fingered crack heads). The second pitch felt harder because it is more sustained. At least 2 #3 Camalots for the second pitch as it is sustained at that size. I don't think you need 2 #1 Friends for the first pitch - there are some bomber nut placements and you only need 1 or 2 small cams for the lower section and a couple in the roof, we had green-red Aliens and were fine. Fun climb. casey bernal
Sep 9, 2002
Fun climb. Nice to have the crag to ourselves on a busy Saturday afternoon in Eldo. This climb can be done in one pitch with a 60M rope, but I don't recommend doing that unless you are a fan of rope drag. To me, the awkward, slanting crack on p2 (5.7 in Rossiter's guide) felt harder than the nice finger crack on pitch 1. The scramble off is obvious and easy.
Aug 22, 2002
And yet another cool route in an area that does not see too much traffic. I climbed this in the fall and saw two other people there on a warm and sunny saturday afternoon. One should check out the boulder that is adjacent to the parking area...Shane
Mar 14, 2002
I did this route this morning and after comparing the picture of V3, which shows this route, to what I saw today, I have one question. Who is/are the prick(s) who are trying to kill that little tree at the belay? You really suck and should take a rusty razor blade to your wrist. That little tree barely had anything green on it. Good route.
Aug 25, 2001
I also led the first pitch yesterday. I thought it was a lot of fun. Just wish it was longer. The second pitch was also well worth finishing.
Jul 2, 2001
Led the first pitch today....short but FUN!!!!!! The second pitch is just as fun in a wide crack sorta way....I give it 3 stars, way cool route.
Jan 1, 2001
- Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf]
I thought this was a great route, just pray you don't have the Mariah Carey song stuck in your head for the whole pitch. I stayed just right of the 2nd bolt, which turned out to be pretty blank and definitely felt 5.11. The 2nd clip was super desperate for me at 5'7".
Nov 16, 2013
If you're tall for the upper moves--around 6'--and climb just left of the first two bolts, this is about 10b. Fun climbing, but I was a little annoyed at having to decide whether to climb the obvious rock with holds just left of, and within reach of, the first few bolts, or to climb straight up at the bolts.
Jul 7, 2009
This pitch is just barely worth doing, for the nice top section. The bottom, where the crux is supposed to be, is contrived: one must force oneself to stay exactly in the bolt line for it to be 5.11b. If you move left and keep hunting for edges, it is maybe 10+, at most. But the top section of bolts is sustained and quite pleasant (10a or 10b).
Sep 10, 2007
I think this route deserves three stars for upward movement and one star for position because it is so easy to reach the 5.7 arete on Emission Control. It also felt quite a bit easier than 11b on the positive thin edges.
Jun 29, 2003
- Highway Of Ra
- Highway of Diamonds
Brilliant, quite unlike the other face climbs at Cadillac, no bolts to clip! It meanders a bit, double ropes can facilitate combining both pitches and eliminating the hanging belay in the middle. The hardest 5.9 I ever led!
May 31, 2015
Great route with continuous climbing on P2 if you go right from the roof. Every other move is significant, every second stance is rest... it never goes away but never exhausts you. Exciting but not lethal. A great first "heads up" lead for a 5.10 climber.
Mar 30, 2012
Had to bail today for various reasons. Lots of booty up there. Help me out if you can.
Mar 26, 2012
If you are allergic to runouts, pick the right-hand variation on P1 following a small, left-facing corner instead of traversing out left. Doing this, you can clip one bolt on Land of Ra. If following the suggestion in Rossiter's book about going left to the arete above the roof/bulge on P2, I think this is quite a bit harder than 5.9. Taking a step to the right makes it a 9.
Jul 12, 2011
Rap off the slings to the tree (full 30m), then a quick ~25m to the ground. Bring lots of small-med gear if leading as one pitch.
Sep 7, 2008
I wouldn't agree that the first pitch is VS. About half way through the scary hand traverse, right below the first bolt of Land of Ra, you an get a bomber #3 Camalot in a hole. It's still spicy, and I wouldn't recommend falling, but this is not a death route. Don't let the first pitch scare you and get on this gorgeous line.
Jul 5, 2007
4 things: 1-the "runout fun" is not over after your pitch one traverse. P2 has plenty of spice left. This is not a good route for the fledgling .9 leader. 2-I echo the great idea of bringing a 3.5 and 4 for the traverse crack on P1. 3-Bring doubles of red, yellow, green Aliens for building your anchor on the arete, or sm/med. tri-cams. 4-rapelling (with 2 ropes) certainly beats the alternative loose, steep downclimb. Finally-I pulled an autolocker off 'Land of Ra' on 8/4/06. If you can describe it, it's yours. PS--Esteban-I'm not much into leather vests and I don't know what tongue baths are, but 'Highway' rocks, nonetheless!!
Aug 4, 2006
Climbed on 10/9. Great route. I would have to agree that the first pitch is X though it is fairly mellow face climbing. A fall before reaching the secure finger crack would not end well. As for the second pitch, I am not sure what the original line is but skirting to the right seems more in line with a 5.9 rating than going straight up.
Oct 15, 2005
Another crux comment. I'm sure we cheated the route by moving farther right, to "Land of Ra" and proceeding up and then left to the arete, but the move straight up is 5.10 tricky and a little run out (potential 20 foot whipper.) Having said that, I certainly appreciate the sandbag gifts of our predecessors, it keeps Eldo real and interesting.
Sep 25, 2005
I agree with Luke. You have to beware any 9+ rating put up in the 70's. Nobody wanted to give a route a ten and then given a bunch of shit for it. That's my interpretation.9+ is a dubious grade in any climbing area.
Aug 20, 2004
Not that this site really needs another rating argument but I think the 9+ rating in Rossiter's guide for this route is a classic Eldo sandbag the hardmen of the 70s bequeathed to us. I was crushed on the crux -- leading and on top rope -- and I have been leading 10b and c in Eldorado. The 10b Ichiban Arete felt much easier than this line, which we intended as a *warm-up.* This is harder 9+ than p1 of Rincon.
Mar 8, 2004
I think the guidebook gives this route the dubious 9+ rating. Also I felt like the crux moves were a little run.
Feb 4, 2004
A bit of an unheralded classic. Crux felt a bit stout for 9, and the moves are a bit reachy. First pitch is 5.8 X.
Jan 12, 2004
I led the fist pitch of this route a couple of days ago and it is great. I would mention the long runout after the hand tranverse left up to the crack. If you're solid on 5.8 it just takes a cool head. But it is a 15-20 foot runout and the last piece is somewhat suspect.
Aug 26, 2002
- Ichiban Arete
This is Richard Rossiter on 1 December 2017. I have been looking back at my life and trying to comprehend what I was doing. Regarding the name of this route: while I was married to Joyce, I went through a weird "Turning Japanese" phase of my life. Ichiban is pronounced each ee bon (as in bon fire) and means: number one.
Dec 1, 2017
No way this thing is "R" on anything more than 5.6 climbing. You can place good gear before leaving the dihedral, and from there, it's hand over hand across a very large and positive handrail before reaching a bomber nut and #1 placement for the mantle to the first bolt. From there, it's well-protected by bolts until the arete where the difficulty eases off significantly. Higher on the arete, you can even get a great #3 in a hueco to protect the final few moves to the top. Don't let the rating scare you off, it's great face climbing with good protection for all of the more difficult climbing!
Oct 20, 2015
I agree with Ivan above. Compared to Deviant, Highway of Diamonds, Chockstone, Xanadu, and other 10a routes in Eldo, Ichiban is a bit easier. Gearwise, I would put it at PG. Mostly you get great gear (and you can even back up a bolt with a great nut!), but there is a small runout section. However, there's nothing to hit if falling.
Jul 12, 2011
I like it spicy! Don't put another bolt in, it's pretty obvious what you're getting into from safety; it's a choice to go up or not, if you're not feeling it, rap off! Also, a #1 C4 goes in well after the initial right traverse on the quest over to the bolt. At the top, there is a bolted anchor at the top of The Untitled in addition to the top anchor. The top anchor has a long cordelette and a large quicklink, and the Untitled anchor has rings. @Gregg: Sounds like your disappointment stems not from the lack of quality of IB, but frustration with your inability to sack up and lead The Untitled. Since IB is well below your ability, pretend, for a moment, that some other climbers don't TR .12 like you can, and that leading a .10/.9+ face route with an exciting runout is fun! Good route, Richard!
Apr 29, 2011
Compared to nearby sandbag 9+'s Deviant and Highway of Diamonds, this climb is very easy. With double ropes, the initial traverse is safe and not at all scary. I then downclimbed a bit and traversed out. I didn't see the Tri Cam placement that Tony mentioned, but there's a sinker brass nut in the thin vertical crack to protect the move up to the first bolt.I clipped my left rope a little too high up the corner and so had some drag after I rounded the arete. It would have been better to clip the left rope to the nut in the corner and then to the 3rd rather than 2nd or 1st bolts and clip the right bolt to a nut (optional) and 1st and 2nd bolts.
Jul 7, 2009
Worth doing if you like the dicey lead. Go up the gulley from the tree, not out to the funky looking bolt to right of the tree. Place gear in the corner, then traverse right to good holds (don't fall!). Work your way to the bottom bolt in the line on the 12a route, then veer off right (crux) to a bolt near the arete. If you then step right onto the arete, it is a long way to the next bolt, but very fun, easy climbing.
Sep 3, 2007
Even with the tri-cam placement, this route definitely warrants an 'R' rating.
Apr 29, 2007
Great little line on excellent rock. Yes, the first bolt clip and the upper section should both be considered RO (though the climbing is easy). Also, there is no way that this route is 10b - solid 9+ (and a very short crux at that). Adding a bolt is unnecessary (though the old rap anchors and their position are questionable).
Sep 30, 2005
An extra bolt might not hurt the route, I guess. If it doesn't get placed, or until it does, you can put good gear in. Just take your Lowe tricams & look for the pocket. My partner and I both though it was bomber.
Oct 6, 2003
Followed this today and we found the initial clip way [runout]. My leader threaded a runner off a branch on the fir tree...as the first clip is a ways up, with no other apparent pro. Richard, I agree, a bolt down lower is necessary. The climbing felt a bit soft for (10b) on the face, but good nonetheless. Decent crimps...Once up on the arete its a fun jugfest.
Oct 4, 2003
Joyce (my wife of the time) and I did this route and The Untitled nearly 20 years ago. I went back up and climbed these routes during the summer of 2002. The initial stretch above the "belay tree" is really bogus and needs an additional bolt. Also the anchors at the top of the tower are not in a useful place and should probably be relocated at the top of face of The Untitled. This is a case of 20-20 hindsight. Please realize that 20 years ago "sport climbing" was in its infancy and the concept of lowering off from a climb was nearly unknown. One simply led the pitch, brought up the second, then walked off or rappelled. It was an extension of mountaineering. Cadillac Crag is not in Eldorado Canyon State Park, nor is it in Boulder Mountain Parks. I believe this crag lies in a narrow stretch of BLM land and is not subject to the bolting restrictions of either agency. I may very well return and upgrade the fixed gear as is logical by modern standards.
Sep 28, 2003
ICHIBAN!!! yeah Mark, I thought the same thing about the grade, super cool route though. Bolts en route are new and draws will do for pro if you don't mind running it out a bit. Those bolts on top are starting to look pretty ancient and they are sharp, check the webbing..
Aug 22, 2002
I did this route several years ago and found it easy for 5.10b. Climbing up the arete is fun and very exposed. You can stick a cam (#3 Camalot, I think) in one of the pockets as psychological pro if you want, but I don't advise falling here. The rappel bolts are in a odd spot, but for what its worth, you can rig a toprope from them for the untitled 5.12 (which is decent climb) with a little webbing.
Apr 4, 2002
It is also quite possible to place a reasonably good Lowe tricam prior to reaching the bolts. It is the red one, if I recall correctly, but it has been years... I carry only pink, red, brown, so it has to be one of those.
Oct 16, 2001
- Land of Ra
This is a great, sustained route! However, the crux is one move max, and I don't think that it is a 5.11a move. I may be biased though because I am taller, but the move was over before you knew it. That being said, the route doesn't let up at any point. Be on your game for this one because you really have to go for it and navigating wasn't easy. The seam up top takes some wire (I slotted a #9 and was PSYCHED) and microcams. Control yourself in the beginning so you don't have rope drag with will f%$k you at the end of the route. The SMC bolts add a bit of spice into the equation as well. All said, what a great route. Get on it!
Oct 11, 2011
Made the same mistakes as Gregg Russo. Clipped the first three bolts and while staring into the sun climbed up past the 4th bolt while following the natural line of gear placements. Pulled over the two bulges(10-) and then traversed right back to bolt 4 or 5 but encountered heinous rope drag. Climbed back to the arete and ran it out over moderate (but run out) terrain to the bolted anchor. Keeping true to the route would have trended up and right more than seems logical from the 3rd bolt. I'm sure we weren't the first to make this mistake and so thought a logical name to this variation is Land of Diamonds. Rapping from the bolted anchors with a 60m rope left us with about a 8 ft down climb to the tree...be careful!
Jun 25, 2010
Fabulous, long pitch. The upper "crack" is not 9+. Ichiban Arete, which we did just before is rated 10b (maybe 10a). The incipient crack above the 10c move is continuous/harder than any move on Ichiban Arete; it is difficult to lead while protecting safely, especially if you put the gear in the few places you might have gotten a finger lock. You want to be solid at placing gear and leading about 10b for this bit, or you need to bail out to the left and up the arete, as some have done (9+ S, maybe). Also, the guys above are quite right: the safest way to do the traverse moves to bolt #1 is how they describe, with trad. gear up and right in the dihedral. Finally, 60 m rope indeed gets you about 10 feet above the belay tree, with 5.4 downclimb to it.
Sep 3, 2007
Pretty standard Eldo route, spicy, runout, nice long pitch. Keeps you on your toes Enjoy it, it's a nice route
Jul 6, 2007
The previous info was very helpful, and I'll just add a few comments. Near the start, I climbed up to the top of the shallow, left-facing dihedral, placed protection (with a long runner), climbed back down, and then went directly up to the first bolt. Even with the gear in the dihedral, a #3 Camalot in a pocket below the bolt (with a double length sling) was welcome. The slot for the #4 Camalot was between the third and fourth bolt, and shortened the long runout getting up to the fourth bolt. This is a great route.
Nov 16, 2005
I agree with Gary, the shallow dihedral is a perfectly acceptable way to avoid the serious face move to the first bolt, and should be considered a variation for the quality of the left-traversing moves. I love this route. The anchor bolts should be moved to the solid block three feet above to avoid the sharp, loose edge. A 60m rope is sufficient to reach the tree between the 2nd and 3rd fin, and will get you almost all the way to the belay tree for Ichiban with an easy five-foot downclimb.
Sep 25, 2005
Contrived runout getting to the first bolt, but otherwise an enjoyable pitch of good-quality face climbing. Seemed a little soft for 11a.
Jun 21, 2005
After climbing Highway of Diamonds it's hard to think this isn't a wee bit contrived.
Feb 23, 2005
A few Aliens / Camalots to .75 supplemented the bolts nicely. Double ropes eliminate any rope drag.
Sep 17, 2003
With a 70m you can reach the tree for a second rappel, or easy downclimb.
Aug 25, 2002
The ground-fall potential on this route prior to clipping the first bolt is pretty high and I found it more comfortable to lead this by climbing the shallow dihedral just right of the face moves to the bolt, placing pro in the dihedral's crack and then traversing almost directly left to the bolt. The rest of the pitch is one of the nicest face pitches around, with good pro.
Apr 5, 2002
I agree it is an excellent pitch of sustained slab climbing. The 9+ crack/seam at the top does take wires and small cams, but the gear placements take some work. Also, do *not* fall on the 5.8 moves up to the first bolt. This would be a bad pendulum that would slam you into a slab.
Oct 11, 2001
- Let it Vee
There really aren't too many quality one pitch climbs of this grade in Eldorado. I thought this was quite fun and has a lot of interesting stemming between the cracks on the right and the corner. It is worth nothing that the detatched block (that a beginning leader might be tempted to place gear in) on the right immediately following the stump, moves a bit and will not take reliable protection despite its appearance. As soon as you pass this block, there is a solid single crack that will take a good finger-sized piece.
Nov 2, 2015
This climb is much better than it looks, and I thought it was a lot of fun. If you want more of a challenge, climb the finger crack on the right side before stemming into the corner. Only downside is that it is a little grassy.
Aug 30, 2015
The infamous tree stump has been removed. Note--the very loose walk-off ledge traverses just above this pitch, so expect some rockfall on a busy day.
Apr 23, 2012
Julie Clements and I climbed this route in '71 or '72. I don't know if we were the first, but there were no signs (pin scars) of anyone else climbing it before. We protected it entirely with chocks, and a previous party might have too.
Sep 9, 2011
No one mentioned the nice laybacking starting half way. Fun route! Lots of loose rocks at belay ledge, watch out! I knocked a few down.
Jul 30, 2008
Great climb! Someone has 'adjusted' the stump recently. There is no longer potential for getting goosed/impaled. Very fun route!
May 26, 2008
This is a fun climb. I would recommend this climb to any leader. But I agree about the stump. If you fall - Owwww!
Aug 3, 2007
Maybe it was just because I hadn't warmed up, but I got pretty pumped on this. As with all routes in this area, there is a ton of loose rock piled up on top. The stump should be either removed or sharpened to a fine point for beginning leader kabobs.
May 7, 2006
This is an OK route, much easier than P2 of Gonzo. I don't think this gets climbed often. In the dihedral crack, there's a bit of vegetation and dirt. Makes the feet "interesting" when there's not much on the face. Lots of loose rock at the top. Be careful when belaying from above.
Sep 20, 2004
For you beginning leaders, either don't fall or place closely spaced protection above the broken off stump (clearly pictured) to prevent horrendous impaling. Perhaps a saw....
Apr 25, 2003
Better than it looks from below, quite enjoyable.
Oct 22, 2001
- Midnight Trundler
I agree with Tony on the rating. Short, but really stenuous!
Sep 21, 2003
- Moonlight Drive
Copy Ivan's comments above. Compared to Deviant, Highway of Diamond, Chockstone, Xanadu, and other 10a in Eldo, I think Moonlight Drive is a bit easier. There's a bunch of suspect rock on the first pitch, bit being careful, you only need to touch one suspect rock (the very large flake) while climbing it at 5.8 level. Just avoid the big suspect jugs and use the smaller and more stable features. Gear can also be placed away from the suspect stuff with a bit of imagination. Make sure your second is a solid climber as the traverse (5.6?) at the top of P1 doesn't have a lot of solid gear.
Jul 12, 2011
Great climb. Both pitches are on the spicy side but not bad. I enjoyed this climb more than both V3 and Gonzo. Definitely don't agree with the description of "A good climb for sure, but nothing spectacular." The flake on P1 is cool. I don't think it's going anywhere, but I also didn't even think of place any pro behind it. I got a suspect #2 Metolius curved nut in on P2 between the 3rd and 4th bolt, but it was probably just mental help.
Sep 27, 2008
I agree with Ivan. "As for the gear between bolts 3 and 4, it is indeed at your feet. I used a #00 Metolius." I used a blue Alien. I also found this and Ichiban Arete about as difficult as Deviant. For the record I think Deviant is 10a easy.
Aug 9, 2008
I didn't think the runout between bolts was too bad. It would be an uncomfortable fall, but not a dangerous one. I found the suspect rock on P1 more spicy than anything else on the route.
May 4, 2008
Read all the comments. Good route indeed, but everyone who says watch out on p. 1 is quite right. Very suspect little holds, and the big flake is going to break if you pull out and hard on it. We all know it is possible to rate things differently, and maybe the folks who say p. 2 is 5.9 went some different way. The way we did it, definitely 10b. Also I said "R" as you do NOT want to fall at the 9+ move just before you clip the 4th/last bolt on the arete - pretty run out at that point (previous bolt maybe 25 feet down).
Sep 10, 2007
I lead this today having followed it a year or two ago. It seemed very easy. The first pitch is maybe 5.7. The big flake was more solid than I remembered. The rock on the traverse left is atrocious--don't pull out on anything, but the gear is pretty good, and the climbing is very easy if you stay low. The crux is on positive 1/2 joint or bigger hand holds and pretty big feet, and is all in balance. One standup move is all. I had followed Deviant (9+) that morning and had more trouble following that than leading this. As for the gear between bolts 3 and 4, it is indeed at your feet. I used a #00 Metolius.
Nov 18, 2006
"No harder than 5.9" I just don't get it (my partner said the same thing, "5.9"). I think it is solid 10- for 3 moves. Also, this route should be considered S (Serious), due to the exfoliating/thin/rotten nature of several sections in P1 and the RO in P2. . . . at least remember this warning (and the others) if you're using this website as beta.Really fun climb - and exciting for the grade!
Oct 1, 2005
If you didn't find any gear between the third and fourth bolts, it's because it's at your feet when you're standing on the big ledge. Set two opposing small stoppers. Maybe it was the comfort of clipping bolts, but the second pitch seemed no harder than 5.9. I certainly concur with all the [trepidation] expressed over the first pitch death flakes. Pull carefully.
Sep 25, 2005
Recommended. Green or yellow alien before the traverse left on pitch one. Don't remember much gear on pitch two apart from the bolts.
Jun 21, 2005
The move from the third bolt to the fourth bolt is not too bad minus the wind guts which really sucked. I didn't see any placements between these bolts at all. Pick a calm day to do this. I followed the first pitch and noticed rotten flakes that probably wouldn't hold a fall. Solid 5.8 and fun, though.
Mar 15, 2005
This route definately rates two stars. Very nice position with good exposure on both pitches.
Jan 23, 2005
This is one of my favorite pitches. Tons of fun! The flake on P1 is a blast, but placing gear is sometimes hard as you have to contort around to see it. I'll aslo concur that the final 10-15 feet is a)S, and b) has some suspect rock in places (thin flakes waiting for their chance to go) and c) really fun. I doubled up on a couple of placements right out of the crack and felt OK about it. Don't head right to the roof; the bolts are a bit lower.I blew off stringing the 2 Ps together, therefore making my partner pull the cruxes, but I regret that. I think with long slings, they'd go together withough THAT MUCH drag. When you get to the top, hit Midnight Trundler if you're so inclined. Enjoy!
Oct 9, 2003
This is a superb route! Climbing the P1 flake is excellent... to an airy hanging belay. I have to say the P2 (10b) face is fairly graded, and a very worthy pitch of Cadillac fin climbing...
Oct 4, 2003
Great Route! P1 is moderately long 60-70 feet. Some suspect rock, that could be pryed loose with poor cam placements. IMHO not a great first lead for a 5.8 leader. 20 foot traverse left to the anchors if an onsight would be would be quite serious trying to route find because anchors can not be seen from last pro placement.P2- after Bolt 3, I was able to place a Blue Alien and Black/Blue Alien in a small slot on the ledge and equalize them with a sling. Either one on it's own with a higher impact fall would probably fracture the rock and you would take 40-50 ft fall, equalized they would likely hold, however the climbing is not that difficult getting to the bolt, unless there are 40-50 mph wind gusts? Save a 3, 3.5 or 4 Camalot for the top. I have climbed several routes at Cadillac, and this is one of the best.
Sep 21, 2003
This is a great climb! The first pitch flake is cool - unique and fun. The runout traverse to the anchors isn't too bad (S-). Keep in mind that it's likewise S- for the follower. Pitch 2 is superb - airy and exposed on quality rock. It's peculiar (to me anyway) that the first ascentionists placed 3 bolts to protect the first 20' of this pitch, then ran it 30' to the 4th bolt! The difficulty eases to about 5.7 for this stretch, but a 60' fall past your belayer would be, well...exciting to say the least. I found a marginal smaller nut placement (#5 BD?) about half way between the 3rd and 4th bolts in a tiny pocket, but was sure glad to clip that last bolt. Used a .5 Camalot and yellow TCU to protect from there to the top. Airy and exposed!
Sep 21, 2003
Re my first comments. I led this pitch after following it the year earlier, so I think my comments are affected by that. I would hate to describe a pitch as easier than it is; I'd rather be on the conservative side. I defer to those climbers with more experience who commented above, and appreciate all the feedback this site offers.
Sep 19, 2002
I agree with Steve and Bryson. I remember leading the first pitch and being pretty nervous about taking a big fall in the final 10' . After Pete's comment I figured I was just being a wimp, or was missing some placements.
Aug 23, 2002
I would concur with Bryson. The 1st pitch is rather spicy and I definitely wouldn't recommend it to a 5.8 leader. I do think the route is well worth the long approach when you're comfortable at this degree-of-difficulty.
Aug 23, 2002
To me this did not seem like a good moderate lead up to the bolt anchor. There are some very suspect flakes above the wheat thin flake that are waiting to be pulled off onto someone's rope. This may be a moderate lead for someone more accustomed to ice climbing but anyone at their limit on 5.8 has a good chance of pulling something big off. I strung both pitches together without drag problems and thought the upper part was pretty good but found the bottom half to be rather dangerous and definitely not worth a trip in it's own right
Aug 22, 2002
With the rap anchors at the top of the first pitch, this makes for an excellent moderate lead at about 5.8+ (Rossiter). The pro is fine with the exception of the top traverse, which is easy, the position airy, the flakes very funky. Just be aware that you'll need to traverse left before you reach the top of the roof in order to get to the anchors, and you'll have to place some funky pro to protect your second. (I used a pink tri cam and a small camalot).
Jul 24, 2002
- Shallow Dihedral
Was able to fiddle in two small offset brassies and a red ball nut in the lower 5' of the dihedral, but it pinches shut completely after that, so be prepared to run it out. I mantled onto the good flake/crimp on the right wall before deciding that the lead was too much and backing down. You won't hit the ground falling out of the dihedral (if the gear holds), but you will need a high level of confidence in your small gear as it will be holding quite a fall if you do blow it near the top.
Oct 23, 2014
- Stargate
Anchor up top - wrap three or four strands of rope around the tip of the summit (tensionless hitch) which gives a high enough point to belay from while seated on the sharp block to climber's right. Not super comfortable but strong and effective.
Oct 30, 2016
I thought this route was fantastic! I enjoyed it more than Land of Ra. The moves past the first 3 bolts are super thin, technical, and very bouldery. Definitely get on it if you're in the area!
Nov 30, 2013
Great climb...did it as one pitch, and it was smooth. Fair as 11b in Eldo...if you relax. I had a harder time with the moves up higher. I found the upper section slightly commiting (5th to 6th) but exciting.
Nov 29, 2011
Another of many mismatches between Rossiter's rating in the text and what it says on the topo. The text says 11d, but the topo shows an 11b crux down low, and an 11a crux higher. Needed a magnifying glass to read the notations on the topo.
Nov 9, 2003
Actually, Rossiter's latest Eldo book rates this 5.11d. I'd have to agree that it is easier- and perhaps easier still because yesterday I snapped off the sharp part of the crux hold and it got better. I tend to sacrifice a little strength for security and lean back hard to make my feet stick better- I leaned back on the diagonal crimp and 'pop' now it's a little different. My partner, who normally has to grovel a bit on climbs harder than 5.11b came up it clean without too much struggle, despite hot/humid conditions. Building a good anchor up top while keeping the rope off of sharp edges is a little problematic, build it to avoid cutting your rope in the event of a fall. Neat route. P1 breaks charicter from P2, but both are fun.
Jul 28, 2003
- Trail of Tears
Located on the west face of fin 3, just right of the beautiful dihedral of V3. Approximately 140 feet in length. With rope stretch, an 80 meter rope will just get you to the ground if your belayer steps into the starting alcove. TIE A KNOT. 13 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A #3 Camalot w a runner placed between bolts 1&2 is wise, if you were to slip or botch clipping the 2nd bolt, you'd certainly hit the ground from 30+ feet. Once established on the face, after the 2nd bolt, this route is incredibly sustained. I thought there were two distinct cruxes- a 12c section getting from bolts 3 to 4, and a 12b section just past the 11th bolt. While there are a few areas of respite in which to shake out your calves, the majority of the climbing never falls much below 11+/12-. A superb route, great stone, super sustained for 140', strong toes and calves would be a huge asset.
Mar 12, 2016
- Twistoflex
A #5 Camalot is great to protect the wide crack. A #6 would fit up high if you really wanted to sew it up.
Mar 12, 2011
- Untitled, The
Sustained very thin holds. Make sure your tips are hardened and your toes well rested.
Mar 30, 2015
Felt loads easier than Bachar Yer Aryan, which is somewhat similar in style.
Nov 2, 2008
Funny that I have never checked out this thread before, but here is Bret's and my version of what occurred that day. Bret contacted me the previous day about coming up to Cadillac Crag to climb what has now been called either Fuzzy Dice or Untitled. I agreed. We wanted to try and drill the route on the lead, ground up. As far as Bret (or I) knew, no one else had ever been on this route before although we knew that Richard had been checking out various lines in the area. To the best of our knowledge, this was not one of them. We never saw any chalk marks on our proposed line. We got to the foot of the climb, Bret allowed me the first attempt at leading and drilling. I had gotten the first bolt in and was above it contemplating the next when Joyce came rappelling from up above. Bret and I were naturally confused and a bit upset, because we figured that their intent was to rap bolt and we wanted first chance at a trad lead. Bret and I had a quick discussion with Joyce and it was obvious she and Richard were intent on drilling from above. Bret and I didn't think we could finish the route that day and might have to return again the next. Everyone agreed to a truce. The route would get drilled from rappel if Richard and Joyce gave Bret and I the first chance at the redpoint. Richard drilled the bolts, I did the first redpoint. When I got to the top, Richard and Joyce were no where to be seen. Bret followed the lead and he and I went home. We never top roped the route nor did we ever see an Elaine Chandler. I think what probably happened was that Richard had placed anchors above several routes on that cliff and had previously TR'ed them with intentions to go back and establish the bolts. He was really ambitious back them and sometimes didn't always communicate his intentions to others. Bret simply saw a great line he wanted to climb. At the time, Bret and I were holdouts (of a sort) of trad climbing. We really wanted to see if we could drill this rock on the lead. Hence, our stubbornness at not giving in to Richard's claim that it was his route. I was pretty adamant that I was NOT going to give in. Richard was surprised and ticked-off. That was a long time ago, and everyone has since changed. We're all friends now, and this story is just part of the interesting history of Eldorado climbing. The name "Fuzzy Dice" was Bret's idea and a good name. I think that Richard and Joyce's name should remain on the FA.
Oct 20, 2007
To Steve. Now that this whole story has been told, I just want to say that I am easy on it. Fuzzy Dice is a clever name and I don't really mind at this point if people call it that. This is an excellent and challenging route on very good rock. I would like to return to this face with a drill and make a few improvements: it needs a first bolt behind the tree and a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the face. The current anchor is up on the summit and makes a poor rap or lower-off. A first bolt behind the tree would also serve the route Ichi Ban Arete. I, of course, heard about your stroke on Spearhead. I hope you are doing better now and I expect you are! Best wishes Steve and thanks for your many contributions to the sport. Kindest Regards, Richard Rossiter.
Apr 21, 2003
Sorry for the misinformation Richard. The story I heard (which you state is incorrect) is that Jack and Bret were the first to free climb (i.e. redpoint) this line, and had named it Fuzzy Dice. "Fuzzy Dice" is a clever and fitting name for a route on this crag. However, the name "The Untitled" should probably be reinstated now that you have clarified the route's history.
Sep 18, 2002
I have never published the story behind this route, because it is not a very pretty one. But the [previously posted] misinformation presented here compels some explanation. During the summer of 1988, I had set anchor bolts at the top of the northwest face of the First Fin, Cadillac Crag. Joyce (my wife of the time), Karen Kuddes and myself toproped the face and determined the ideal line. I marked in chalk where I thought the bolts should be placed and we rapped off, planning to return the nest day and set the bolts. When we returned we found Jack Roberts and Bret Ruckman toproping the face from our anchors with the intent of bolting the route. I agreed to include them in the project and placed the bolts with my Bosch, as I had planned. We all climbed the route. I later found out that a friend of ours, Elaine Chandler, had come by earlier that day and told Roberts and Ruckman that we were already working on the route and planned to return. Regard this as you will. Personally I feel that my including Roberts and Ruckman in the first ascent was an act of good will. I named this route The Untitled because I never felt comfortable with the circumstances of the first ascent. The correct name of this route is The Untitled and the FA should read: Joyce and Richard Rossiter, Jack Roberts and Bret Ruckman
Jul 18, 2002
- V3
I felt it was easier than Verschneidung (5.7), but I think they both should rated 5.8.
May 31, 2017
Good long moderate and very enjoyable (minus the bird poop). A couple of spots will definitely put you a bit above your last piece, but the moves are straightforward. I liked having 2 #3, 2 #2s, and doubles in off finger sizes too. A #4 was nice to have up top. Solid 5.8 and worth the hike.
Oct 11, 2016
A #4 Camalot would definitely help at the top. I saw anchor rings at the top right. To end the climb, I traversed left and belayed off a tree.
Aug 30, 2015
I led this route yesterday (7/13/14), and it was super fun. I'd do it again for sure. I used crack system and jammed fingers and feet all the way. For a small person like myself, the last 10ft or so was kind of like a baby offwidth, but I jammed my entire legs and used my body as a cam. Gonzo and V3 are must 5.8 routes in this crag!
Jul 14, 2014
Good climb, sustained, and straightforward for Eldo. #4 certainly helps for the top section.
Apr 21, 2014
Nice climb that's well worth the approach hike. Seemed easy for the grade.
May 15, 2013
Fun route that I really struggled with, much more difficult than Gambit and upper Gambit variation.
Oct 31, 2011
Awkward five 8. Three of us did it all with different tactics. I did less stemming and more foot jamming and it was fun! Bear hug near the top.
Jun 17, 2011
I followed this pitch so maybe my perception is a bit skewed, but I thought Ghetto Cruiser was noticeably harder. I didn't find V3 to be very sustained either. I found that jamming the crack was pretty secure, so I didn't stem too much at all. Would like to go back and see what it's like on lead.
Jun 28, 2010
Bird poo central, but that just add to the ambiance, right? Probably the easiest 5.8 I've been on in my life. A few backsteps and minor stems make it a cinch.
Jun 27, 2010
A 70m will put you at a nice stance about 15 feet off the ground, easy downclimbing. Just watch your ends on the way down! As for the route, probably my favorite pitch of 5.8 ever! Not too sustained, good gear, great movement. I had a single #4 and used it before the 'double wide crack' section at the top. Another would have been nice for the head, but it's pretty easy ground. You can avoid the hanging belay by going straight back from the top of the climb onto the next headwall, plenty of cracks to make your own anchor. Or the tree at the top of Gonzo, although it's a bit out of the line of the climb.
Mar 8, 2010
Regarding the comment that a 70m rope is too short. Too short for what? It is an easy walk off to climbers left from the top. No need to rappel this one.
Jan 18, 2010
Was able to climb this today, in January! I love living in Colorado! Turned out to be an amazing day of 50ish degree sunshine. We used a 70 meter rope and it was too short. However, it was sufficient enough to get us to comfortable downclimbing spot. Also, when you set up anchors at the top, you can place a few directional draws on the way down for the 5.11b next to it! Great fun.
Jan 18, 2010
Climbed this last week. Really fun climb. For the anchor on top, I was able to run an open loop of rope to an anchor around the large pine about 20 feet back from the top of V3. By clove hitching it back to my harness, I was able to sit right on the edge and watch my second the whole time without having to hang off the awkward-looking bolt anchor. This was with a 60m rope.
Jun 18, 2008
Climbed yesterday and loved it. A few cruxes with ample protection. The bird shit exists and the wind was deafening, however despite the complaints on the top anchor, the hanging belay on the right wasn't terrible and the following walk-off was easy. Choose between walk-off and a double rope rappel. Have Fun!
Apr 16, 2008
Climbed 10/6/07 with S. Costello. This is a fine, high-quality pitch. Keep the #4 cam for the wide bit. I was surprised to find my #2 and #1 Camalots still on my rack when I finished it. There are numerous excellent nut placements and a lot of good spots for medium to large hexes (#6-#12) if you've got them. The fixed anchor is not so good and would require a hanging belay. Unfortunately there are not many options for a trad anchor either. Beware the choss!
Oct 8, 2007
Loads of thick, gooey bird crap up near where the .9 variation rejoins the dihedral (7/20/07). We chose to cut left onto Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf], a superb, thin face climb.
Jul 20, 2007
I onsighted this one today and just had a great time. I linked both pitches, but unfortunately ran out of slings. Definitely keep that #4 for when the crack gets wide and splits before a large chockstone you have to haul on to get over. If you use it lower like I did, you can bury a #2 deep to the left. You can get a nut in on the right side of the chockstone before you climb over it. And from time to time see if you can stem the feature instead of puting your feet in the crack. Some awesome no hands rests that way.
Oct 29, 2006
The bird shit was not there the first time I climbed this route (many years ago), but it was there yesterday. Let's hope for some heavy rain....
Sep 18, 2006
Led this route today just after leading the first pitch of Gonzo. It felt definitely harder than Gonzo P1. Long, very sustained, and it looks like there are several cruxes on the route. IMHO, it is better not to use the anchor at the top at all, it looks quite shitty and hard to reach.
May 21, 2006
Great route! I chose the non-stemming option while leading this one. I am just getting into finger cracks and found this one a good intro to finger jams and toe work (if not stemming). I did not bring big gear (i.e., the # 4 discussed above) and felt fine. However, without a big piece (hex or cam) the last set of moves out right to the bolts will be EXPOSED and a run out, but the climbing is easier at that point. Enjoy!
Apr 4, 2005
My first climb in Eldo. I thought this was a great climb! Definitely sustained. A little easier than it looked but good fun sustained crack. And the approach ain't that bad compared to other areas I've been to. Look forward to many more climbs in Eldo.
Nov 14, 2004
[Beautiful] long pitch !!! If you are not comfortable with runout sections definitely bring an extra #4 or two aside from your standard rack. As mentioned above the moves through the [runout aren't] very hard. I only brought a #3 Camalot and used it early on in the pitch. Awesome route, fun, long, thought provoking lead. Oh yeah when I was there I clipped a fixed nut and about 15-20 feet up a fixed red Camalot. Couldn't get it out though.!!! Enjoy - PEEEEAAAAACE out!!
Oct 15, 2003
Three stars all the way. Solid rock, sustained climbing, and even a shady belay stance! Easy walk-off to the left.
Jul 18, 2003
As mentioned, very similiar to Veschneidung, only longer. Crux for me was in the middle involving lay backing, while walking up the steep wall. As with Verschneidung, because of the angle of the V, you can use your back to pressure your feet against the wall in this section. Didn't see much to stem with there. Higher, a #4 is needed to sew it up completely, but I climbed it without one, as that move is not that difficult. Top third of this route is pretty casual, the meat is in the middle. Quite a hike up to this crag, but a morning start has you in the cool summer shade, enjoying killer views west to the Divide.
Jul 17, 2003
This route is kinda like Triple-S at Seneca in the sense that if you don't stem, it's hard. If you do stem, there are still some moves to consider, but a rest between almost every one of them.
Apr 3, 2003
Led this yesterday and thought the climb was pretty sustained for it's grade (maybe it was the 50mph gusts and cool temps). An awesome climb, nonetheless. A note about the fixed stopper: if you're counting on using it, it's gone (I removed it with hardly any work). I wouldn't consider the pro tricky there anyway, as previously mentioned, or anywhere else on the route.Also, the double bolt anchors atop Trail of Tears are not set up for rapping (needs webbing or chains), and the belay isn't that comfortable. Art Veenendaal
Jan 20, 2003
I tried leading this climb 3 weeks ago. There's a fixed stopper about 25 feet above the large block. After moving above this stopper, I was unable to get a good piece of pro in. The crack there is kinda weird and I didn't want to go higher without a piece. So, after fiddling with gear for way to long, I fell on the fixed stopper. I was unable to get the climb that day. I just went back and tried it again this weekend. The gear is better above that fixed stopper, I just didn't go up high enough. After finishing the lead, here are my comments: I agree with the other posts, the gear placements are all there, but sometimes a little difficult to find or require a slightly strenuous stance to place it. The V is at an angle that is a little less than 90 degrees. So it can get tight, and your gear can get in the way. It is a pretty long pitch, so bring enough gear, and endurance. I used most of my 50m rope. The wide cracks at the top were not so much a problem for me as the lower sections. I found 2 distinctive crux sections, both relatively sustained, both about 20-25 feet, and both below the wide cracks near the top. Comparing this climb to other 5.8s, I found it to be a little bit harder, especially for a beginining leader (like me) because of the tricky pro and narrow, tight space. But this was my first 5.8 lead in Eldo. I really enjoyed this climb. It's usually empty, and definitely worth the hike. Great climb. Solid 5.8
Nov 20, 2002
Awesome climb! Brice, you are right on--althought the gear is superb and always right where you want it, placing gear is definitely thoughtful--its not your normal plug-and-chug line. althought it looks line a tight finger crack from the ground, the crack eats up medium cams (green BD, etc), and definitely bring hand size and a larger piece up top (#4 Friend baaarely works), or else you'll be looking at quite a runout. Also, anyone know if trail crews are gonna hit up Cadillac Crag? It's pretty loose, and I'm so used to nicely terraced benches and steps (Eldo is spoiled :) I saw them working on northern Rincon earlier in the summer, so maybe they're workin' down the line.
Oct 13, 2002
Great climb, it's like the V-slot on Verschneidung, but longer. Note to budding trad leaders: the climb protects well, except for the wide crack at the top (though it didn't feel too hard there). If you want to sew that up, two #4 Camalots would do the trick. There are good stances for placing gear, but in places the crack is a bit funky and takes a little more thought than just throwing in a cam or nut.
Aug 22, 2002
I led the route yesterday and it ranks as one of my Eldo favorites. I enjoyed it so much that I followed my climbing partner on the same route just minutes after the first climb. I also want to do the finger crack variation.
Jul 2, 2001
I did this route again, this time with the 5.9 finger crack variation. The variation is fun, but not too long and pretty easy for the grade IMHO. I thought it compared in difficulty to the rest of the route (maybe only slightly harder). Also, some gear advice: some tricams (0.5, 1) work well and bring a #4 Camalot if you have one to protect a section near the end with two wide cracks on either side. Otherwise, you'll have to run it out slightly, but if you feel comfortable on 5.8 terrain, don't worry about the extra weight.
Jun 4, 2001
Followed this today and what a cool pitch....sustained and long for Eldo. I wanna go back and lead that nice finger crack in the left wall and also Deviant, which looks HARD....saw this strong looking dude hanging on it today.....there's no feet. Led the 2nd pitch of Over the Hill today too, that finger crack has been calling me for the last 2 weeks and finally got to nail it today, very recommended!!
Jan 1, 2001
- You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny
I don't know that was a cupped hands crack and I had no three, did the whole thing on one tipped out two. The exit from the slot was awesome and technical. Great line and dont forget to protect your second.
Oct 16, 2011
Really fun. Solid jams, a tough roof, and some steep, challenging moves afterwards. Took the crack described above for the start and bouldered through it until the tree.
Feb 28, 2009
I think it gets an extra star for the name alone.
Apr 21, 2007
w/J. Blumberg 3.18.06...there are some weird moves on this climb. Lots of them. It's a good practice route for, well, other weird routes. Standard rack was sufficient. Beward the choss-pile at the belay.
Mar 19, 2007
Lots of loose rock undermines what is otherwise a great climb. Bring extra number #1-3 Camalots for the hand crack. Great climb in the fall.
Oct 10, 2005
Err, uh, squeaks by with a star. Sorry. So many better routes in the Eldo area.
Apr 30, 2003
I'll second AC comment regarding being short: at 5'3", I thought that going over the roof was particularly difficult. Stemming was not an easy option. That was the crux for me.
Apr 13, 2003
Wow! Pulling out and over into the crack from the slot is puzzling, and a blast! Having doubles of #3 Camalot was nice.
Apr 2, 2003
1 or perhaps 2 stars, but 3 is a bit optimistic.
Mar 17, 2003
Very good climb! The line looks somewhat improbable from below--and intimidating, but it's not bad once youre into it. Bring an extra hand sized piece and a #3 Camalot for the hand crack--if you're short and not too solid on jamming, the hand crack section will be brutal. But if you're tall you can jam and stem pretty easily for good rests along the slot. The crux felt to be the few moves out of the deep slot where the hand crack jaunts out on to the licheny face above, and finishes into the finger crack. This section [isn't] hard, just a little tricky and the lichen makes it slippery--and I also had a pretty good pump going!
Jul 2, 2002
- Cartoon Crag
- Dewey
- Doc
Added new, purple, 1-inch webbing and heavy stainless quicklink to top of route. Tighten water knot before use.
Oct 2, 2016
- Donald Duck
- Dopey
- Goofy
- Huey
- Lazy
Added new, purple, 1-inch webbing and heavy stainless quicklink to rap station. Tighten water knot before use.
Oct 2, 2016
- Lewey
- P.A. Pops Up Again
- Sleepy
Just right of Sleepy, TR the right side of overhanging alcove and then up the clean face, through the middle of the overhang just below the Sleepy anchor for a fun 5.9 or so option.
Jun 16, 2014
- Sneezy
Added new, purple, 1-inch webbing and heavy stainless quicklink to rap station. Tighten water knot before use.
Oct 2, 2016
- Visual Imperative
- Continental Crag
- Bonsai
- Continental Breakfast
Glad someone is out getting on these things- especially you Jay- great to see you made it back into the game!
Nov 6, 2012
We replaced the cord on the rap anchor on 6/21/2012.
Sep 21, 2012
- Continental Drift
- Continental Soldier
- Cougar Bait
- Fuzzy Crack
- Last, But Not Least
- On-Slot
I climbed this route for the second time today and never had to pull an offwidth move despite what it looks like from the ground. Some lucky bastard did retrieve the stuck cam Tony and I left awhile ago.
Jul 20, 2006
Decent route with a fun and improbably crux. Hard to commit to, but not so hard to do once committed. The climb is 5.11 and does have O.W. on it, but it's not 5.11 O.W. Or at least that's not how I did the crux. The rack is "up to a #4 Camalot" with wide gear optional before or instead of the bolt. The route goes without the bolt on a #4.5 Camalot... but recall that those were not on the market in 1986 when this route was FA'd.
Jun 15, 2006
- Pangaea
- Plate Tectonics
Removed the flake today. Another Top Ten Trundle.
Jul 17, 2007
- Primal Scream
- Rift Of Consciousness
- River of Deceit
- Welcome to Eldo
This one is easier than the wide section of West Buttress (5.9). It might become a 10a if you really want to do it as an offwidth instead of the clean, obvious layback that it is.
Jul 12, 2011
- Whatever Pops Up Next
- Whymper
I found this much harder than its rating of 5.9. Maybe because of the lichen at the crux leaning weird crack/slab. Gear was good, though.
Aug 4, 2011
- Diamond Head
- Cameron's Corner
I thought the start of the third pitch was a little dicey for sure. After you crank a few moves, good gear can be found; however, it seems that if a hold broke high-factor fall potential is present. Good climb though.
May 4, 2012
Combine 1 and 2. This would be four stars except for the 20' of choss just before the belay. We skipped the last pitch as the start looked a bit dicey and Shibumi was calling. Note, if you don't want to do P3 you can move right about 30' (5.5) and do the 95' P1 rap of Shibumi.
Jan 18, 2010
Cameron's Corner is now a three-pitch route. Brad Bond, Pamela Emanoil and Dougald MacDonald added a short direct start and a direct finish to this great route. The first pitch is a shallow left-facing corner in a slab with wires and RP pro, something like 5.8+ and somewhat serious near the top. Brad Bond's 5.11 second pitch is a mega-classic -- as good as anything on Rincon. The third pitch breaks through the roof just left of the belay with unique buckets and strenuous-to-place but good pro. Continue on steep ground to the summit ridge (5.10a).
Apr 15, 2002
- Climber in the Buff
Starts with a bit of jumbly rock, but has good pro over head and gets better after the first few moves.
May 7, 2008
- Diamond In The Rough
- Facets
I did this one while wandering around up at Diamond head, prior to figuring out what I was getting on. This, I did the route without beta or bias as to its grade. I felt like the route was 10b/c, based on a comparison to other stemming routes. Ariel Book P1 (10d) is much harder, and no better protected. The Green-Spur dihedral section (9+) and Over The Hill P1 (10a)& P2 (10b) are also easier. If I'd not found the key time to step to the right into the sidepull, I'd have had to find a harder sequence, I am sure. As for protection, it seems adequate enough, but you need to be sure of the pieces you get, which will include some quite small pcs (#00 HB anchor, for example). The route would be what I refer to as "S-" This means the route CAN be adequately protected. The question is, are you solid enough on the climb to play around with it and get it right? This route may be height dependant, particulrly as per leg length and/or flexibility. The stemming is wide.
May 27, 2002
We did this thing again and Eric found an easier way to do the crux. Instead of trying to stem out left, stem strait up the box and look for a finger lock up and right. Done this way the crux is entering the dihederal -- 10 or maybe 10+. Still really fun!
May 15, 2002
- Fistful of Diamonds
- Flaw, The
If there is anything that I thought I needed on this pitch, it was a few yellow Camalots.... I broke the trigger wire on the first attempt at placing mine, then found 2 more places where I wanted it later besides. Other than that, the climb was actually very good. Unique and fun, but certainly NOT for the tentative leader or second.
May 5, 2008
- Kill All Bad Brown Dogs
Here I go again- I know ratings are subjective, but... I did this one while wandering around up at Diamond head, prior to figuring out what I was getting on. Thus, I did this route without beta or bias as to it's grade. I pulled up to the corner on the somewhat "iffy" rock. I was a little wet from the recent snow and melt-off, which explains the lichens. I was able to place enough gear (small cams on 2' runners) up under the roof to make me feel plenty safe for the roof moves. Stemming left under the roof to a foothold near the edge helped. I pulled up under the flake and around and could ALMOST reach a killer side-pull. instead of reaching the killer side-pull on the knife-blade feature, however, I pinched the edge and slapped around at the crack, moved both of my feet high end left and cranked like a fiend to match hands on the side-pull. From there it was good locks. At 5'10" This felt like 5.10d. Once I had the side-pull it was 5.10a. I went up and down trying to grab that thing from many different feet. Now I don't know how tall you guys are, but I am guessing in the 6'0" range. Check your height for this one if you only lead 10a. In my opinion, it was harder than Tagger (10c), Grandmothers' Challenge (10c), Whiplash (10c), or Sooberb (10c).
May 27, 2002
- Let It Rock
The climbing is decent, but the approach to the face/crack is AWFUL. Not worth it in my opinion, but I rated the route based on the actual climb, not the 100ft approach scramble.
May 6, 2008
- Let It Slide
The climbing is decent, but the approach to the face/crack is AWFUL. Not worth it in my opinion, but I rated the route based on the actual climb, not the 100ft approach scramble. Also, I now see that you rated this thing 5.9 Tony, thanks for the sandbag while I was soloing :) Best route of the three up there.
May 6, 2008
- Let it Roll
The climbing is decent, but the approach to the face/crack is AWFUL. Not worth it in my opinion, but I rated the route based on the actual climb, not the 100ft approach scramble.
May 6, 2008
- She Blew Me
I believe this crag is on Mountain Parks/Open Space and therefore (at present) is illegal to bolt.
Mar 14, 2002
- Shibumi
This route was a fun (and frustrating) project when we worked on it IN 1988. It took more than a year to link it all together. Sort of a team effort with Bret Ruckman figuring out the crux on pitch one. Pitch two involved multiple hair-raising attempts on the headwall fingertip crack. The small wires placements add complexity to the hand/feet sequences. At one point, I challenged Derek Hersey to go up and try it since he seemed like the only person, at the time, who would have a lot of fun figuring it out. Not sure if he ever took me up on it, but he surely had the cajones and skills to pull off an onsight. If you want to get away to a remote spot with awe inspiring views, Diamond Head is the place. I figure it is the highest elevation rock climb in greater Eldorado. Kudos to all who have taken the journey to SHIBUMI to climb! Bill Gibson
Sep 21, 2011
Placing gear on the 2nd pitch adds loads to the difficulty. Bring your trad honemaster skills and bunch of thin gear. -Scott
Jan 19, 2010
The head wall pitch is not to be missed. Totally unique to Eldo. Its uncelebrated status hinges on its isolated location. However, getting to the head wall seam is heady. Even on follow, I was freaked out for about 30 seconds as all manner of choss must be negotiated. Props to Scott Bennett for the bold lead. I look forward to another bout with this classic. Note both P1 and P2 anchors could use some TLC. Sorry I didn't take any photos. They work well enough, but updates would be nice. P1: I would pull the pin and go with a vertical modern two bolt setup. P2: pull the pin and bolt (i.e., patch hole) then go down about 6' with a nice beefy setup to eliminate the rope drag.
Jan 18, 2010
- Uncle Chip
- V2
- Eldorado Canyon Bouldering
- Accordion Boulder
- Beach Boulders
- Blocks Rocks
- Crank Rock
- Creek Slab
- Diamond Head Bouldering
- East Draw
- Center Ring Wall
- Infinite , The
Fantastic line! Much better than I would have thought! I recommend!
Jan 16, 2015
Fun problem that is steeper and more gymnastic than many in the Boulder area.
Mar 14, 2013
Here is a video I made of the climb. youtube.com/watch?v=Aaz9RM-…
Jan 12, 2013
I sent this one today!! It was my second day on it, and it was an awesome boulder problem. I felt like it was more in the V9 range though. I have never sent a V9 or V10 to be honest prior to this, which is why Im leaning towards V9, since it only took 2 days of work. I would love to take V10 on it, but it just wouldn't feel right for me personally. I have been trying 606 on the Gill Boulder for 7 days now, and that feels a step above this for sure. I have also tried Whispers of Wisdom, and this was not really in the same realm as that. I am about 5'5" which might make the lock off move to the crimp feel easier, since I dont feel all crunched up. Being tall might be a disadvantage but idk. It is an amazing boulder problem and I think if your up there you should get on it. I was really excited to get this.
Jan 11, 2013
- Pig Dog
It may not be much to look at for some, although the movement is brilliant, and a sandbag. Four-star boulder!
Dec 16, 2013
This is a video I made of my buddy Gehrig Smith crushing Pig Dog. youtube.com/watch?v=bQ6thGx…
Jan 23, 2013
I love this problem! This has to be one of my favorite boulder problems for the grade. Great FA, Kevin.
Jan 11, 2013
My best FA, yeah.
Nov 27, 2012
- Pig Ears
- Pig Nose
- Slopers
- Tough Cookies Never Crumble
- Low Traverse Boulder
- Crack
- Face
- Traverse
Sent it this afternoon. Fun problem in a great location. Need to go back and link it into the V5 on the left end of the wall.
Nov 8, 2013
FA me. Sadly enough, probably my best FA, after Pig Dog. Wrong, Ryan Fields says it was him. It's his then.
Nov 27, 2012
youtube.com/watch?v=cd-AaUE…
Nov 10, 2012
- Sofa Patrol Wall
- Warm-up Blocks, The
- Edge Blocks
- Freight Train Boulder, The
- Highball/Mini-Cliff Standard
Actual Name: Highball/Mini-Cliff Standard. FA: Adam Massey/Patrick Wild.
May 20, 2011
- Buddha Belly, The
Best V3 in the Front Range!
Nov 8, 2011
I did this pretty easily without a knee bar or a heel hook....
Oct 24, 2011
FA: Adam Massey / Patrick Wild.
May 20, 2011
Good Stuff!
May 6, 2011
This has got to be one of the best routes for the grade!
Apr 23, 2011
- Chubby Bunny
Chew-Chew: Stand start on the left side-pull crimp and right razor crimp. FA: KRONG.
May 20, 2011
- Classic Warmup, The
- Get In My Belly!
- Hobo Mantle
Also- There is a crazy, full body-length dyno from the starting jug to the lip that Bart Strege may have sent.
May 20, 2011
- Jay Goes The Gay Way
Whoa Now, Jota! I recall you skipping the fun crux throw from the belly to the edge, bypassing this move with some sort of lame undercling. Hence -> Jay Goes the Gay Way. And, should I amend the grade to V2/V3, this seems more reasonable, for either sequence, don't you think? I just can't grade problems anymore....
Jun 7, 2011
Yes, Krong (aka Philip) Pat and Jay were all climbing this together, but Jay got the FA and called it, "Pat Philip's Butt."
Jun 1, 2011
- Muckler, The
- Prancing Cow Direct
Isn't this Poke'mon?
Aug 15, 2011
- Prancing Cow Right
- Fringe Boulder
- Gill Boulder, The
- 606
So happy to finally be posting a video of me sending this boulder. What an epic battle, haha. youtube.com/watch?v=q-DJ7YD…
Dec 19, 2014
FWIW, the FA was done by Will LeMaire, 2004.
Nov 24, 2007
- Baldwin Face
Unless I am mistaken, the rocks below this problem are still high enough for the start. A bit spooky to start but a classic nonetheless.
Feb 17, 2016
Fabulous problem, John. MB showed me it about 12 yrs ago. Sandbag!
Jan 21, 2013
- East Face
- Gill Face
- Grinch, The
Wade, I have no idea what beta the 5 sends that are V9 and under. It is significantly harder than 606.
May 27, 2012
This boulder problem was originally given V8/9, not sure how it got V10/11. It's seen 6 ascents now 5 of them being V9 and under.
Mar 22, 2010
- Horan Face
So for some perspective, if Zero G is V5 and Re-Entry Burn is consensus V6, then Horan Face is solid V6, at least in warm weather. Classic problem.
May 23, 2014
Isn't 'The Baldwin face' the original (stand up) start to '606'? Done before the boulders were dug out?
Jan 21, 2013
Why is the Baldwin Face (B.1+) eliminated? A significant problem. This problem is listed in Front Range Bouldering (1989), Author: Bob Horan. Pg. 160. Description: "Left of the Gill Face about fifteen feet is a thin-edged face that moves up and right. FA: John Baldwin, 1988." (Start at standard face, go up one move, then go right, two moves, then straight up, and finish at jug)
Apr 17, 2010
Feels like V6 for sure.
Aug 1, 2009
Thanks Chip. I am going with what my original thought was. Thanks for the info.
May 13, 2008
FWIW, the problem done by John Baldwin is about 10 ft right of 606.
May 12, 2008
Hey Chip. That is what I had thought it was. Bob Horan's book is a little vague with the photo on this route and has 3 other lines with in feet of it to the left. So, it was a bit confusing to read and try to post. I am going back Wed. this week and am going to snap a couple photos a bit more visible and see what happens. The Gill Boulder is great, and I think we should have some accurate info on the higher end problems it carries. Cheers
May 12, 2008
As for this problem, Horan identified it as the Horan Face. While it is certainly possible Pat (Ament) or John (Gill) did this problem back in the day, Pat never mentioned it in ANY of his guides and considering that it used to have a pretty bad landing, my best guess is that they passed on it. It is a pretty damn good problem and with the addition of Will's 606 to the Gill Boulder, it is as popular as ever.
May 12, 2008
I would take just about any grade in Phil's book with a big grain of salt. If you read his introduction, he states he will always take the lower of two grade options. By general consensus, a number of problems which are well-traveled Front Range classics have crept steadily up in grade since the book came out. The author's "keep 'em in their place" attitude combined with vague problem descriptions has long been a pet peeve of mine and if there is a new edition, I'm hoping there's a lot less attitude and a lot more specific useful information. A good alternative approach is Chip Philips' online guide to Flagstaff at flagstaffmountainbouldering…
May 12, 2008
I'll go with the first two folks I heard from and keep this route as is with the standard route. I feel it goes at stout V5 or so but oh well. It is a great problem regardless and at least now someone has a way of seeing it. Thanks for the input Adam. Cheers
May 12, 2008
I will check out some stuff and other guides as well. I want to post some of the other routes on the gill as well so it would be nice to get it all straight. Thx SAL
May 11, 2008
I think I was mistaken on this route, and it is actually the Baldwin Face judging from Bob Horan's Best of Boulder bouldering guide. I posted this photo to help validate this info, so by all means please let me know if I'm out of whack here. Cheers
May 10, 2008
Isn't this called V4 in the Benningfield guide? Either way, excellent problem!
May 9, 2008
- North Dihedral
- North Face Dyno
- North Face Mantel
I am not sure what this is called, please comment and suggest a grade.
Jul 17, 2009
- North Reach
- Northeast Corner
- SDS to Northeast Reach (submitted as The Blunt Arete)
- South Face
Contrived to avoid left hold....
Feb 7, 2017
The rating may depend on how you finish it. I've never thought it was quite kosher to grab the "side" hold that is about straight left from the high right crimp, at least not for full credit. Instead, go up (and still somewhat left), and then sticking that move is the crux. Doing as I describe could be V2 I suppose, in the same way that Crystal Lift is V2.
Jun 14, 2014
Did it today as a warm-up. I agree with Phil's rating. V2 feels about right. There are several V3s in the canyon that are harder than it. No way it's V4.
Apr 5, 2013
- Southeast Slab
Indeed, it is possible to climb on the other side of the corner and perhaps directly up the blunt arete as well. Benningfield describes the Southeast Slab as "a small slab four feet wide on the southeast corner". The line I featured in the photo seemed most obvious to me but try them all.
Apr 29, 2008
I've always thought of the SE slab as being a little bit left of the line in the photo. Regardless that is indeed a very stiff V0.
Jul 16, 2007
- Hip Hop Boulder
- Hobo Boulder
- Horn Boulder
- Mile Stone
- Milton Boulder
- Donna
- Milton
Just did this thing again, after 20+ years. Still fun, and still felt stout for V4.
May 3, 2015
Fun alternate (Milton Dyno V5): dyno from the starting holds to the lip, and mantle over. Much more fun, in my opinion...compared to the original problem. Did both versions today, and this dyno was a lot of fun.
Nov 6, 2012
This thing is so much harder than V4. I send V9 with one session of working, and this thing took me 15 goes to send.
Oct 10, 2011
Colorado Bouldering by P. Benningfield rates V3. That's strange, as the inventor of the V rating system, J. Sherman, uses Milton as an example of the benchmark for V4. (See Hueco Tanks, Climbing and Bouldering Guide, 2nd ed., Chockstone Press Inc., 1995, p. 20). Not a big deal, but I've always been a little miffed at Benningfield: Milton does not seem like a problem to downrate. My beta: either R or L foot onto obvious, greaser hold, then go to top with L hand. I've seen others use R foot up and R of greaser hold, and go to top with R hand. Mantel exit is much easier but not totally trivial. I've done this on warm summer days: maybe it's easy when cooler. Beautiful moderate/hard problem.
Jul 19, 2009
- Never Say Never
The static version of Never Say Never, V12/13. Never Say Never from bob horan on Vimeo.
Mar 14, 2014
Bob, I am very interested in "The Kiss of Life" boulder problem. Can you provide a more clear description of where it starts, on which holds, and the line it takes? That is a big, amazing boulder, and I've checked into a couple possibilities on it - I'd be really keen to try this line you mentioned above.
Feb 15, 2012
Taken from the frontrangebouldering link: "The first move was different than any move I had ever done. I would dyno off the ground to an upside down gaston for the left hand and dyno my left foot to a tiny foot hold as thin as a nickel, all in one move. After about a month of working the first move I was sticking it enough to begin linking it with the upper moves and maybe a week later did the problem. It is a great feeling doing something you have put so much effort into, especially a first ascent that required so much figuring out. I think it is the best of bouldering." - Steve Mammen This seems consistent with what Bob is saying. It appears Steve did the first ascent of the dynamic start, Bob did the first ascent of the static start.
Apr 22, 2011
I am a little confused why the first ascent of this is even being questioned. Again. Well, all due respect, nothing I've read here about someone other than Steve Mammen doing this first (and there is only ONE first ascent after all) is congruent with anything I've read or heard from anyone (the exception being Best of Boulder Bouldering, of course, by Bob Horan himself). Because this was first done back in the stone age, and there weren't iPhones or YouTube back then, there is no footage of the FA I am supporting. I feel ridiculous posting "evidence" of my claim on here, but here are a couple links to make up for any lack of credentials I may not have for NOT being Steve Mammen himself. Climb Talk Radio Front Range Bouldering
Jul 8, 2010
That is a good video. Nice work, Bob!
Apr 24, 2010
Nice video! ... and thanks for providing some clarification about both Steve and your ascents.
Apr 24, 2010
@Chip, Steve's way was to run at the face and hop onto it by using the dynamic motion to latch and stabilize onto it. My way was to start at the base and statically mantle and pull myself onto the face, (the crux move without a doubt) much more difficult than the hop onto, which I was also able to do just after hearing of Steve's ascent. The static way was unrepeated for many years. How many people have actually repeated NSN, via my static move from the ground, or done the problem at all, just curious? You also maybe interested in another problem of mine on the River Block, around the corner from Eastern Priest, The Kiss of Life, V12?hb,(1985), I originally sent it as a traditional lead, from a cheat block start, at 5.12c/d, belayed by Rolofson, Later I removed the cheat block and bouldered it out, several grades harder without the cheat stones, and unrepeated to this day? It's a serious hb boulder problem now, not the greatest landing, but then neither is Germ Free. I mention this because I see you have started to seek some historical Eldo reference points and for all the problems new and old they have some interesting historical origins deep rooted in their final ascents. The essence of bouldering is in the moment, after the fact is a whole other dimension. Boulder On! See video below!
Apr 23, 2010
@BH ... It was not my intent to suggest you did not do NSN and very close in time to Steve's ascent. Are you saying that Steve's ascent was via a hop from the ground or a dynamic move after establishing on the face? If the former, you may have arguably done the first move in better style (defined by today's not 1980's standards). If the latter, then I really don't view your ascent as anything more than a repeat of Steve Mammen's NSN. I'm still a newbie Bob, having moved here in 1999. Although I've spent a lot of days in and around Eldo, I'm definitely not suggesting I'm an expert on Eldo Bouldering ... quite the contrary. I was merely suggesting that the history of Eldorado bouldering is a bit of a mess, particularly the stuff that is a long hike from the car. Yes, I have your Best of Boulder Bouldering book and it covers some of the boulders in and around Eldo quite well, although as you know there are hundreds more problems in, behind and around Eldorado Canyon State Park that are not currently covered in any guide and rarely with FA info. Merely speaking for myself, I like details, including names and dates, which requires a lot of work and keeping in touch with developers who are actively hiking around and pulling down lines, some of which are new and some of which are not. I can think of one nice line pretty far back that no less than three people have claimed the first ascent of in the last few years. I'm not blaming anyone for the discrepancy and in the end, I suppose FA info in a guidebook is irrelevant to the enjoyment of an area. However, it does serve as a historical insight into the progress of the development of an area going forward AND facilitate a better appreciation for those who went before us. Peace.
Apr 8, 2010
Never Say Never was worked at the same time by Steve and I. We intially tried it as a dynamic, hop to the out left layaway, we were at that time unsuccessful with holding the move, but would push on each other's back allowing each of us to stabilize on the face and then complete the rest. A week or so later Steve sent it with the hop start, an awkward move but impressive. That was considered the 1st ascent, and the way Steve described how he did it. A week later I was able to statically do the move from the ground, a new and somewhat more strenuous approach. I would use an inverted mantle push with my right hand after latching the layaway. It would kind of tweak your shoulder if you did it to many times. I repeated it many times and found that it was way easier to do in cool temps. The Milton Hop was a run jump problem done on the Milton Boulder problem by myself in 1980, Jimmy had not moved here yet, his run jump problem ran up the Never Say Never face, equivalent to a slam dunk on a standard basketball hoop. I was unable to slam dunk the Never Say Never face although I had tried many times, very height dependent and rather challenging for someone under a certain height. Chip, when did you move to Boulder and how long have you been climbing in the Boulder Area?
Apr 7, 2010
Chip, Sharp End is compiling the new Front Range Guide which has a lot of the new problems. However, I don't know about the history part.
Mar 24, 2010
No worries, Matt. The history for much of the quality bouldering in and around Eldorado State Park is a sordid mess at best. Nobody - AND I MEAN NOBODY - has all the problem names and FA info adequately documented for a grade A guidebook to the area. It is a project, however, that someone should get started on.
Mar 23, 2010
Chip, Thanks for clarifying the FA info. I will change that.
Mar 23, 2010
^That was Jim Ratzlaph's ascent Leo. To say that Jim's circus trick send was the FA of Never Say Never is a misnomer at best. Never Say Never begins statically from the ground and I was always under the impression that Steve Mammen did the FA, although BH seems to think he did, as documented in Best of Boulder Bouldering. FWIW, a handful of other people have repeated NSN, including a 2009 ascent by Dave Graham who called it V11. Grades schmades.
Mar 22, 2010
I recall that someone tall did an alternative ascent with a leap, foot on the wall, and slap to the top. Was it another Bob?
Mar 22, 2010
- Smeary Thing
Feels more like V6 if you use the undercling crimp with the left instead of the pinch.
Mar 24, 2010
- Undercling Problem
I agree with the above comments on the pictures being incorrect. DSeltzer gives gives a great description of the correct start. This felt easier than the V1 to its left. Maybe "Standard V1" has lost a hold? "Milton V4" to its right felt way harder than this one to me.
Dec 8, 2014
The pictures posted for this problem look like the standard route, which tops out high and uses the good undercling about 3/4 of the way up. It's a V1, I think. The undercling problem referenced in guidebooks is to the right and starts on two opposing sidepulls then uses the undercling about 8 feet up as referenced in the previous post (V3).
Aug 7, 2013
Is this the undercling problem, or is it more to the right on the smaller undercling feature at about 8 feet? Doing this one as shown in the pictures felt more V1 or V2 than V3. I'm trying to figure out where Donna goes, as that description is misleading as well and uses this problem as a reference. -Patrick
Apr 15, 2010
- Mitten Boulder
- Musical Boulders (aka- Eldorado Canyon Trail Boulders ), The
- Peanuts Pile
- Punk Rock
- Pyramid Boulder
- Redgarden Boulders
- River Block
- Eastern Priest
Getting pads down to River Block is a bit of a pain. Don't come in from Milton Boulder. Come in from the East; park in the lower lot, cross the bridge, and hike like you're going to Upper Redgarden. Then hook into the West Ridge trail. Also, if you have crew, you can park a car on the road, hike the pads down to the river, and toss them across during Fall/Winter.
Nov 3, 2017
- Kiss of Life
- Riverside Boulder
- Splish Boulder
- Water Rock
- 8th, The
- Horan's Highball
- Ice Breaker
- Resonated
I guess the break enables match beta to avoid the compression move... but if you've got the reach to execute the compression -> bump sequence you really ought to do it, so classic!
Dec 8, 2016
For those of you turned off by the wet-landing beta photos, it seems that the flood has changed the course of the creek a bit, and the landing for this is now a bed of nice, flat rocks. Really fun problem too, get on it! @IMG-111249145
Nov 2, 2015
Can anyone speak to the quality of the crimp before it broke? Still felt soft for V9 whatever the quality of the right hand. I felt I was using my hips and a really high foot more than finger strength for the bump move. Maybe for a shorter person being able to match the low crimp makes the climb more approachable. The problem is awesome, awesome, awesome. Do this boulder.
Nov 3, 2014
This thing broke recently.... The bottom crimp around the arete is much larger now than a month or two ago. You can see a large scar where the rock has pulled off. I think it may be easier now... but not for sure. You can match the lower bigger crimp now and skip the compression move all together, but it is still difficult. The beta now is not using the ultra small crimp above the now larger crimp around the arete. Just stay with the lower big crimp now, and go for it.... I don't know if it deserves a downgrade, more just an informational post that it has in fact broken....
Feb 16, 2013
Hey Matt, this is still climbable as of 04/10. Someone has built a landing to stack your pads on... seems as if there might be another few weeks to work this thing but not much more than that.
Apr 11, 2010
Is this still climbable, or is there too much water?
Apr 1, 2010
Hard line.. tried it years ago for a few weeks and could not come up with a send. Powerful and beta intensive this is probably one of the better lines for its grade found down in the canyon. Hope to send one day!!!
Feb 18, 2010
Thanks, Andrew! I tried to find the correct info and failed, so I thought the next best thing was to post what little info I was given and hope someone would correct me. Thanks for setting me straight. Great problem indeed!
Feb 8, 2010
Great problem! However, it was named, "Resonated." FA: Paul Robinson 2/20/08 dropkneeclimbing.blogspot.c…
Feb 8, 2010
- Unknown
To answer the above question, yes, this is different than Horan's Highball. It's to the right of it.
Oct 11, 2017
Is this different than Horan's Highball posted here?
Feb 10, 2017
- Vibrant
The initial pull up to the crimps and jug on Resonated is the technical crux (i.e., V6), but the moves getting past there constitute a second crux. Your height and flexibility will determine which is harder. For folks under ~5'8", the first crux is much harder, and the upper will feel easier. Climbers taller than ~6' will breeze up the first crux but struggle with the second. Having the upper crux sussed will make finishing Resonated easier. Also, bring at least two large fat crash pads as the landing although flat is littered with baseball to football sized stones.
Oct 11, 2017
Is this the same climb? The video calls the problem "Ripple" with a FA from Chris Schulte. vimeo.com/107893996 -David
Feb 16, 2016
- Wave Boulder
- West Ridge Boulders
- Terminator Traverse
Reported grade history: West Ridge Traverse V5 & Terminator var. V6 (Colo. Bouldering Front Range 2012, Colo. Bouldering 2003: Beningfield & Samet; Colo. Bouldering 1999: Beningfield). West Ridge Traverse V6 & Terminator var. V7 (Bouldering Colo. 2008 & Best of Boulder Bouldering 2000: Horan).
Jan 21, 2014
Original start for West Ridge Traverse began as a sit-down start next to small tree. "Terminator version initially in the first ten feet of climbing."
Apr 20, 2010
Yes, I did the first ascent - John Baldwin
Apr 20, 2010
- West Ridge Traverse
Sun until 3 pm 20 January.
Jan 21, 2014
John Baldwin FA. Also the Terminator variation.
Sep 23, 2009
Sun until 3:30 PM 6 Feb.
Feb 6, 2009
Darn - with a name like that, I was hoping for a description of a full traverse of the West Ridge - say, a girdle traverse rising up from Morning Thunder and topping out around Knight's Move.
Dec 3, 2008
- West World
- Corridor Boulder
- In Kneed
Hey Murph! The Truth Boulder is above this block. Here is a photo of the earliest ascent I know of. Damn good chance it was done before Jason did it though. Jason Kehl - "The Kneed" - FA?
Mar 6, 2013
Is this to left of Truth, frontrangebouldering.com/el…. If so, Ken Kenney FA, early 2000. Next.
Feb 25, 2013
Right on, good to hear, Andrew. I was surprised by the lack of cleaning on it for how well it climbed! Thanks for the update! Stephen
Feb 24, 2013
Hey Stephen. Thanks for the submission. Good name. Nice work, Trevor, on the send. This one has indeed been climbed before. I think it was 2008-ish, I was there with Jason Kehl and Justin Wood. Jason sent it after working that first move for a bit. Great problem. Grade seems about right. I took some good photos of it that day. I'll dig around for the images. Cheers!
Feb 24, 2013
- Germ Free Boulder
- Germ Free Adolescence
Yes, the FA is the Verm...note to the Administrator...thanks.
Jan 13, 2012
The sit starts are also great, adding a couple of difficult moves.
Oct 13, 2008
Yep, thats what I meant...getting over the lip in general.
Aug 7, 2008
F'shizzle. It's hard to mantle when your nuts are in your throat.
May 15, 2008
I thought the crux was after sticking the lip when getting established on the slab.
May 14, 2008
- Germ Free Adolescent SDS
So good. Just too hard to get 6 but is a soft 7. Highly recommended for anyone looking for an exciting boulder or the budding V7 climber to proj all over.
Feb 16, 2016
Baller. One of the best of the grade on the Front Range.
May 16, 2010
- Here Comes Sickness aka Germ Free Adolescent Right Sit
Ivo Penchev on Germ Free Adolescence Right Sit V8 - Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. from Ivo Penchev on Vimeo.
Apr 20, 2011
- Tasty Slab, The
- Hawk-Eagle Ridge
- ATC
Fixed anchor where you can otherwise easily walk off?
Apr 8, 2013
- Anthurium
It's more like 11 bolts, but half of them are missing hangers. You can't lead it in its current state.
Oct 14, 2017
- Body Lice
- Bold Finger
It's really pretty mellow till the last 5 feet before it goes to a lower angle. Worth the time.
Aug 20, 2008
- Bowling Alley
- Brother Jug
Updated anchor for this route. Could still use a second aluminum ring, though.
Jan 19, 2014
Not sure why people are being so hard on this one. Tons of fun, I thought. No, not a 10, as it was originally rated, but interesting and a nice "might as well since we're here" route. One note--the slings on the juniper were missing as of 4/11, so I created a rap station on the large tree just down ridge above The Bowling Alley.
Apr 18, 2011
This is 5.8 tops if you can reach the hold. There are many Gunks 8s (land of roofs) much harder than this. I think the ceiling on P1 of Touch and Go is harder than this. Plus, it's essentially top roped with gear high on Die Heeda Rule (fixed nut as of today). The climbing above is pleasant (not silly as Josh says), with a bit of a move over a bulge and some runouts on easy knobs.
Mar 6, 2004
Seemed like a one-move wonder followed by some silly climbing above.
Sep 21, 2002
- Central Park
- Cinch Crack
The webbing in the belay/rap station above this pitch is currently in pretty bad shape (5/29/11) and should be replaced/refreshed. If you head up there to do Cinch Crack, please take some extra.
May 30, 2011
I tried this many years ago on toprope. I thought it was a very tongue-in-cheek name at the time and only made it up the thing with numerous "hangs". I was told at the time that it was 5.10.
Feb 10, 2009
- Comeback Arete, The
Nice, Cor! Cool spot... I originally rope soloed it the way you described then realized there was a hold in the roof. Fun either way!
Mar 27, 2013
This route also can be climbed without the roofs. Start up Devo, branch right on 1st obvious crack heading out to arete. Climb arete, and pull overhang/crack/flake/lichen straight above. I have a tree and rock anchored with cord/biners for lowering. 5.8 WAC Arete (what we called this before knowing it had been climbed with the roofs out on the right sides of the arete).
Mar 26, 2013
- Crab, The
- Cracker Jack
I love climbing. I'd rather climb the nearby trees than this again. It isn't that this route is bad, it was just really lack luster. I've had some scramble ascents that were more hair raising and exciting. The gear was placed only as a "well fuck it...we're supposed to place gear 40ft up a wall. might as well." I climbed this within my first few weeks of climbing, so this isn't from a wellspring of experience, talent and skill.
Feb 18, 2014
- Dead Left
- Death Card (aka Ace of Spades)
I was up at Peanuts the other day and found out that there is already an Eldo route named 'Ace of Spades' up there (doh!). So I had to rename this rig, so there you go.
May 16, 2013
I remember you showing me that last winter. Way to go.
Apr 24, 2013
Nice send, Wayne! And nice photos by Cory.
Apr 23, 2013
Nice work, Wayne! I looked at this a couple of years ago but never went back for the lead! Way to get after it on another, obvious, unclimbed line in Eldo!! greg miller
Apr 23, 2013
- Devo
- Die Heeda Rule
A very nice, short, steep route. Great rock quality. I climbed it jamming with my left and slapping up the arete with my right, and was able to have gear the entire time, felt 11a or so. My wife led it straight on and said it felt about 11a also. Gear for it is from 0.3 (blue) Camalot to 0.5 Camalot. Basically finger-sized cams. Stoppers would be a little harder to place as the constrictions are subtle. To descend, head to the right (downhill/south) when you get up to the gnarly juniper, and there is a tree to rap off of that will take you down the big chockstone chimney, pretty close to the base of the route.
Oct 19, 2009
I lead this route today and felt that the grade for climbing the crack straight on was accurate. I think you just need the right beta for it, but the moves were not bad at all
Jan 15, 2006
5.11b my...!
May 8, 2005
Bill, I'm glad to see someone else feels that way (i.e., 5.12ish) about climbing the crack straight on. I couldn't do it free even while following today!
Jun 3, 2003
I think climbing the prow just [right] of the crack is the only way to make this route 11b. It does get you at least ten feet above gear on 5.11 climbing. I think the rating climbed this way is probably 11b. Climbing the crack straight-on seems like it would be more like 5.12. Much, much harder. So, I sort of how the ratings reversed to Tony. I've climbed it (or tried - I couldn't climb the crack) both ways.
Sep 13, 2001
- Emergency Brake
Going straight through the roof to Rush Buick is great!
Apr 13, 2012
I ended up at the anchors for Rush Buick via a thin crack that went straight up after a short traverse right from the last bolt. A fun route worth doing if you're in the area.
Feb 14, 2011
The bolts on this one have indeed been replaced with modern hardware.
Feb 5, 2010
- Grim Reaper
I got on this rig on Tuesday, and it goes a little like this: easy, HARD, easy. Not classic but pretty fun, and if you're into routes that could hurt you (I love 'em for some reason), then this is for you. Sent on TR second go, and so I will go for the lead tomorrow. The crux climbs over a #2 BD wire... spooky!
Oct 4, 2012
- Grubble Gully
- Hangman, The
- Heart of Gold
Bolts are all stainless and modern now. Bolt #9 is ~2' lower because the previous location was in bad/hollow rock.
Apr 17, 2017
FYI - the only modern/bomber bolts on this climb are 2 bolts on the top anchors, and the left of the 2 bolts on the mid-anchor. The rest are all ok, not great, not terrible, but aging bolts with SMC hangers. A good candidate for an ACE upgrade.
Mar 2, 2017
Really fine route, I'm glad I finally made the hike to check it out (not that bad a hike, btw). Though it looks slabby, I thought it climbed rather steeply. Also, it's fairly unique for Eldo in that it makes a lot of use of the arete. We just took draws, and that was fine. There's a bit of a run getting up below roof (near the end, between bolts 8 and 9ish), but the climbing gets easier as you get further from the bolt, it didn't feel at all dangerous. A well bolted route, IMO. All in all, a great pitch with plenty of thought-provoking climbing! -Scott
Jan 19, 2010
Naw man, I tried to boot it straight up the arete to get to the 9th bolt but then just didn't want to take the whip (it's sorta loose and all I had were draws anyways).....oh well, I got payback incentive for that thing. As soon as I fire it easily next time, I'll give it 3 or 4 stars. Nice job on the beta flash anyways Kevin.
Feb 9, 2008
Hank, Did you step right and work up to the flake then up to the roof? I was able to get a few C4s in the flake and the climbing looked easier than continuing straight up past the 8th bolt. It was a bit spooky, and I was a bit pumped and glad I didn't whip. BTW I didn't onsight, as my partner had tried it first and hung the draws and chalked all the key holds! So beta flash at best.
Feb 9, 2008
Agree with Hank. Great route until last bit.
Feb 9, 2008
A great route until the runout between the 8th and 9th bolt. Sorta weird clipping bolts every few feet and then getting schooled on the runout section up high. Maybe it's just payback for those Flatiron routes I mis-bolted the late 80s. Anyhoo, congrats to K. Stricker and anyone else that's onsighted this baby.
Feb 9, 2008
As the other comments indicate, make sure you are a SOLID slab climber before attempting this route. The crack rules--but the serious part of this climb comes at the top (end) of the finger crack, where, unless you climb 5.11b, you must traverse directly right to gain a ledge/rail. This right traverse comes after good gear, but is very run out and could lead to a long pendulum into the belayer on steep cheese grater [Eldo sandstone].
Aug 31, 2001
- Heva
- Hooker
Surprisingly fun moves through the crux, unfortunately this is only reached after 40' of bushes, moss, and choss. There is decent gear to be had low in the roof but nothing I would love to fall on. Fortunately it's a steep but relatively easy move to reach the hand jam slot, and a bomber #2 will slide right in. Throw to the jug, and it's all over! Once over there aren't many options for a great belay, I used a the least crispy looking tree and a large slung block. Enjoy!
Mar 16, 2014
- Hopscotch
- I've Been Sick
- Inflorescence
Missing hangers. Not leadable.
Oct 14, 2017
- January Playmate
15' of good climbing at the start and another 15' at the end. The middle majority is awkward and polished with funky pro. A fall around the rightwards traverse would be bad indeed. Overall not a great route IMHO.
Feb 8, 2015
Nice climb, but the middle bit was creepy. The bottom part (hand and fist jamming) is great - good pro and relatively sustained. Then you pull the huge roof by traversing right on jugs to a huge horn that you can wrap a sling around for pro, but above the horn, you've got to face climb up and slightly left with no pro - gently grabbing a rotten flake along the way until you can finally slot a small wired and a purple Camalot in a little undercling above the rotten band. If you fell before the undercling (which could easily happen if the rotten flake gave way), you'd fall all the way down past the horn - nasty! Above that, it gets good again as you ascend the finger crack. So, yes it's a great climb, but tread lightly in the middle!
Nov 8, 2013
Fun. Remember to save #0.75 and #1 Camalots for the anchor if doing the direct finish (thin crack after pulling right around the roof). Gear is sparse after the roof.
Feb 17, 2011
This is a good climb. The rotten rock is found traversing right and a few moves above. The finish is on very solid stone and follows a thin crack to a nice belay ledge. The bad rock is only a short section and no worse than the "rotten bands" of rock crossed by other Eldo routes.
Feb 5, 2010
This climb is GREAT!! Little to no wind, starts off on a nice off-width. Face climbing at the top. The rotten rock appeared to be the top to us, which created a nice walk to some rap bolts to the left about 15ft. Stellar climb, stout too!
Dec 28, 2008
- January Rush
Those moves on the arete moving left are way cool. Very exciting definitely on both ends of the rope. We ended up topping out on a spire and doing a ~20m rap to the anchors on Rush Buick from a small tree with a bunch of slings on it. Mildly sketchy IMO. This is Eldo adventure climbing.
Feb 14, 2011
I was gripped following the hand traverse. The handholds are slanting and slick, and there are basically no foot holds. If the second falls off he would end up below the roof. If the leader falls off he would swing right and below the roof, but might be able to get back on. The post for January Playmate mentions descent bolts out left. We didn't see any, and the Steve Levin Eldo guide doesn't mentions the flake with slings but no bolts.
Mar 17, 2010
- Larch, The
- Last of a Dying Breed
- Leapfrog
Wow, weird. First 5.8 I've bailed off of; must try again!
Apr 13, 2012
- Lips Like Sugar
This definitely (probably) was a really good route for a few ascents.... Kind of became one of the grosser bolted routes here with breaking holds and gluing attempts to restore it/keep it from further hold failure.
Sep 10, 2007
- Low Profile
This route, and neighboring routes on Uninspiring Wall, are short routes on good rock with poor protection. They are good for setting up a top rope and practicing slab technique. There is easy access to the top via a short 4th class scramble in a corner on climber's right. Probably best to bring a small amount of pro for anchors. I tied off a large boulder and used hexes and nuts for backups and directionals.
Apr 28, 2017
- Molehill Direct
- Mountains Out of Molehills
- Nails to Nowhere
Sorry, the 5.9 top is still REALLY dirty (sorry I forgot to bring a brush the second time) so be careful. The route has big moves on it, especially at the crux, so it may feel hard for the grade for shorter folk.
Feb 10, 2009
- Nobody's Home
Great climb that is much more fun than it looks from the ground. Nothing awkward about the climbing with a sustained mix of thin crack and cool face. Pro seemed pretty good to me with some spaced out but generally solid pieces. Offset nuts/cams and a couple of small cams for the end will serve you well. The rap sling is currently nice and new with a fatty rap ring. Oh, and nobody's home.
Feb 8, 2015
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! I thought this pitch climbed much better and much steeper than it appeared from the ground. Totally disagree with SL's guide that it's awkward, but agree with his FUN statement. I thought it was quite interesting and thought provoking. Maybe it was my avoiding the awkwardness, but the way it keeps pushing you right over the steepness for your lower body with fun exposure was fantastic.
Mar 5, 2012
Does not have gear when you want it, but there is gear when you really need it. Like the comment above, the gear is not bomber. Fun route, but I would not lead it again. Be solid at the grade.
Jan 26, 2012
The gear at the bottom is solid (purple Camalot), but then gets spotty for a while with a possible groundfall from 10-15' before coming back. Generally speaking, this route is PG-13; there are many individual placements which you are relying on for your safety, as they are sparse and singular - single points of gear failure could be catastrophic. I'm not saying that the gear is intrinsically poor, but you have to have your game hat on. This is not a route to take lightly.
May 30, 2011
Spicy.
Jan 8, 2011
This route is short, but has a lot to offer: cool location, a hard to protect crux, steep and pumpy climbing all the way up (with just enough jugs to keep the grade down), and of course the nice surprise....
May 17, 2009
We liked this challenging Eldo 5.9 and the "big suprise" at the end... it's worthy. And if the slings are good, the rap anchor through the tunnel is bomb. Much better than the Rush Buick anchor.
Jul 10, 2008
Not bad...but I wouldn't do it again.
May 8, 2005
DESCENT: As of 11/8/02 there were slings with rings through a tunnel in the roof of the cave. I didn't like the look of them, so I traversed left and down to the anchor (slings and rings) on Rush Buick and belayed and then rapped from there.
Nov 11, 2002
- Pepe le Peu
- Peter's Out
- Peters Out - Roof Variation
Sure seems to me that THIS is the obvious line. The 'variation' should be the escape left, but "are we splitting hairs here?" Haven't done the escape scenario, but the roof is fun stuff.
Aug 31, 2013
There's also a super-quick walk-off option that works for everything from "Howard Placebo" to "Peters Out". The walk-off meanders north then west, hugging the cliff, and deposits you right back at your packs. As of 8-31-13 there was no rap station established on the tree Tony mentioned in the route description.
Aug 31, 2013
- Plinth
I thought this was a very good route, up an aesthetic face. The face climbing above the last gear on the ramp felt bold and intimidating, but not hard. After initiating the left angling 'traverse' it eases off to the bolt. Initiating the traverse felt like intricate 5.9 and A fall up here could be very bad, seemd R/X worthy, at least compared to others in Eldo. Climbing straight up above the bolt is the crux,some kind of committing .10. Habanero spicy on the pepper scale. Really fun climbing on mostly good rock. Well worth doing, recommended!
Jan 21, 2013
This is a really scary climb. We spent most of today failing on it, but it was the place to be. No wind! We ended up toproping it. Tony's description seems overly complicated. Climb the right leaning, left facing corner until it runs out (as does the gear). Be careful your gear doesn't lift out as you climb the bulges in the corner. Continue about 6' higher on positive holds, then straight left to the bolt. If you fall off on the traverse you'll likely hit the left facing corner and/or ledges below. The bolt is useful for the straight up finish, but a bit silly if you're escaping right via the original route, since that's only about 5.7. Red Alien a bit higher. Lots of small wires and small cams before t he crux traverse. We had a funky sideways brass and blue Ballnut, both with Screamers, a bit higher and left of the top of the corner. They both survived a bounce test and held a small fall downclimbing, but it wasn't apparent what they were sticking on. The jug above, at the start of the traverse, creaks--be careful.
Mar 6, 2004
This climb is on a beautiful striking face. It is much harder than it looks from the ground. The runout section is 10a or so. You can set up a TR approaching from W (or Dubya) to the right or [Bowling Alley] to the left (advised).
Oct 3, 2002
Just in case you don't know or don't heed the warning: There is no pro from the beginning of the traverse leftward until the only bolt. 5.9s may be quite a sandbag. This traverse felt like the crux without the direct finish and 10 b/c seems a bit conservative.
Sep 25, 2002
This is a pretty fun route. The runout is only 5.9s and is straitforward with good holds. Once the bolt is clipped it is safe face climbing strait up and is about 10b and really fun moves. Going right at the bolt only misses the fun part of the route.
May 15, 2002
- Prime Time Climb
- Resisting Arete
Wrong gully! This route starts way left of the Bowling Alley.... Probably why Tony didn't see the bolt.
Feb 6, 2010
- Roof's Way
- Rupee Dog Route
This route, and neighboring routes on Uninspiring Wall, are short routes on good rock with poor protection. They are good for setting up a top rope and practicing slab technique. There is easy access to the top via a short 4th class scramble in a corner on climber's right. Probably best to bring a small amount of pro for anchors. I tied off a large boulder and used hexes and nuts for backups and directionals.
Apr 28, 2017
- Rush Buick
Two stars and 5.7. This would be a three-star trade route if the approach didn't suck. This one and Nobody's Home are "must do" climbs when you're in the area because you're probably not coming back soon. It's one of the cleaner and more consistent lines on this formation.
Mar 15, 2010
Has a bolt anchor now....
Feb 5, 2010
Felt like a 5.6 Eldo. I thought Calypso and Washington Irving offered more of a challenge. Rap down after 30 meters/100 ft. Two connecting holes w/ a bridge in the rock make it possible to thread a sling with a rap-ring. I wouldn't use the smaller of the two rock bridges, but somebody else did. SCARY! oh, to the left of the tiny tree that I also would tie to.
Dec 28, 2008
A great climb for the first 70 feet. After that, easy but runout climbing. I continued up, looking for the anchor mentioned in Rossiter's guidebook: "Rappel 100 feet". There is NO rappel anchor for this route: not on a horn, not on a tree. I continued to a loose ledge about 110' up, managed to get in a decent anchor (after a 40' runout) and brought up my partner, who scanned the area for rap anchors. The only anchor in sight was the bolts at the top of Heart of Gold. My partner climbed a ramp to a tree just above the Heart of Gold bolts. From the tree, we managed to get down to the Heart of Gold bolts, which are on a vertical wall with a hanging stance. A 60m rope got us to the ground with a little rope to spare. This descent is NOT recommended; it's not easy getting to the Heart of Gold anchor from the tree. It might be possible to install a rap anchor on this tree, but the tree is less than 6" in diameter and doesn't instill confidence. We also weren't sure if a 60m rope would reach the ground from the tree (in retrospect, it probably would just make it). Another alternative may be to continue to the top of the ridge and then descend to the left, but the rock is junky and loose. Traversing left on the ledge system at 110' also looks possible, but this is littered with loose rock as well. Anyone doing this route in the future should bring slings and rings and look for a good place to install a rap anchor as soon as the difficulties end after 70' of climbing. We had brought up slings, rings, quick links, and a knife, but by the time I got 100' up, there was no place to install an anchor, other than the aforementioned tree.
Nov 7, 2005
Climbed this on Labor day. Since there were no anchors at the top of the route - we went up and left along the rotten band at the top to near the top of Heart of -Gold. There is a small tree w/ slings (I added a quick link) about 10 feet back. A 60m rope will just barely get you down the bushy corner below the tree. Anchors more in line with the route would be nice.
Sep 16, 2004
I climbed the route today and the slings were gone from the horn that's been used for about 20 years to rappel. Maybe just as well as the structual integrity of the horn seems [questionable]. As far I can figure, this leaves 2 ways to get off. Climb to the rappel bolts on Heart of Gold on the left (second rappel station further down). It's troublesome getting to the bolts. The second way down is to do an easy pitch to the top and then scramble to the very north end of the ridge. Makes for a long descent. A rappel station on the left wall would be a welcome addition.
Sep 15, 2004
Nice varied moderate. There is rap station 80' up the route (a slung horn on the right side of the ramp) allowing for a single (50 m) rope rappel.
Jun 3, 2003
My partner and I climbed on Saturday, April 6th just before the snowfall. Great ridge in the winter...no wind and we had the warmth of the sun (probably 45 degrees in Boulder). We didn't have too much trouble finding the route...just make sure you get off the East Slab [descent] trail early and head towards the ridge. We went a bit high and had to back track as we weren't certain we could cross over from high up. The actual route was easy to spot thanks to the picture posted by Scott : - ). As a semi new leader it felt all of 5.7 (and a tiny bit harder than Calypso) because the crux is so close to the ground. It did protect...this I know because I sewed it up. There is a good sequence that took me a while to figure out but once you get it...it is so fun. It was just not obvious at first. I used every small cam on my rack. Once finished you can top rope a fun 5.9+ just to the right. Oh, we cut out one of the old crusty slings and added a new one. I will go back and do it again. It is unique but aren't they all?
Apr 7, 2003
This route is easy to find using the picture below. Rating history:In the 1970 High Over Boulder and Ament's 1972 "5.10" this is rated 5.4!In Ament's 1980 "Eldorado" it's rated 5.5 or 5.6.In Erickson's 1980 Rocky Heights it's rated 5.6.
Nov 11, 2002
New sling added 10/12/02. Fun route.
Oct 12, 2002
Nice solid route. It could use a new rap sling and removing about half of the six that are there would make it easier to clip. The existing slings look pretty weathered.
Apr 2, 2002
How about 2.5 stars. 5.7 corners don't get much better than this. I look forward to doing this route again but the approach was kinda crummy. Fun route, though.
Mar 14, 2002
I actually thought this route was pretty good, 3 stars! If the approach was as short as Calypso it would be as popular.
Aug 7, 2001
- Russian Arete
This route doesn't look like much from a distance, but it packs a lot of cool climbing with wild position into a short distance. The gear is pretty bad, if you blow it on the arete you will probably deck. It wouldn't be as scary if it was brushed a little.... Even clean, it would still be scary and awesome!
Aug 13, 2014
It's a little sketchy getting to the bolt anchor on Lips Like Sugar. You can place pro and down climb if you are leading, but following, you are above the anchor as you downclimb to lower off.
Aug 13, 2014
- Self Abuse
Fun climbing, always have gear at or above your head. Save a #3 Camalot for the exit move.
Jan 26, 2012
I definitely suggest starting with January Playmate and traversing into the roof from that route.
Feb 19, 2011
My self esteem has been restored after seeing the rating of this climb on Mountain Project. The Steve Levin guide calls this 10a, and we thought it would be a good start of the season climb. After 2 or 3 hangs at the lip I got it, and the moves seemed reasonable, but to onsight it seemed pretty hard. Rossiter calls this 10b/c. If you are short this could be really hard since you might not be able to reach from the giant foothold out left to the crack in the roof.
Mar 14, 2010
This is a good roof with good foot holds and good hand jams. Also, if you want to add a good hand crack to the beginning of the pitch, you can do the first part of January Playmate and traverse over under the roof to link up to the Self Abuse roof. There is a horn/block at the top of the roof that we rappeled off to get down.
Apr 16, 2008
What a great roof! Lots of fun. The dihedral is a little overgrown with vegetation, but the roof itself was [awesome]!
Jan 15, 2006
- Shallow Grave
From the description of Resisting Arete posted on this site: "Climb up this chimney only as far as necessary to pull onto the wall to the left and make your way to the arete. The route felt harder than the 10b/c it was given, but that may have been due to the amount of dirt and lichen on it, which made it feel insecure." Sounds like you and I both could only find the same way up there... I think these ascents are both likely of Resisting Arete, becuaswe I never could figure out where else the route might go. Maybe Dan Hare or Steve Levine can sort it out...
Jun 19, 2007
- Short One
- Siberian Khatru
Not sure I'd sling that tree, but I state the obvious...as of 8-31-13.
Aug 31, 2013
There's also a super-quick walk-off option that works for everything from "Howard Placebo" to "Peters Out". The walk-off meanders north then west, hugging the cliff, and deposits you right back at your packs. As of 8-31-13, there was no rap station established on the tree Tony mentioned in the route description.
Aug 31, 2013
- Skip 'n' Go Naked
Funny thing was, Eric, we saw it too, but Joseffa and I don't own or use chalk. So, there was a 3rd party around in the recent past.
Feb 11, 2015
Yeah, thought I saw some chalk on it and figured it must have been you. I wonder how long it has gone unclimbed before seeing two ascents within a couple of hours haha....
Feb 9, 2015
Funny, I'd just go to add this thing, and there it is, added moments ago. Yeah - R/X. X for the fact that it is not protected at all, R maybe because it is only 40' tall? I say X for an inevitable groundfall. Good climb, though. I see mention that there is now a webbing anchor on the tree at the top for those who wish to TR it. Apparently the submitting party did it right after us. It is a single 9/16" strand. Back it up with a sling if you feel that is inadequate. An unmentioned downclimb traversing to the left and then into and down the corner is 5.3-ish.
Feb 9, 2015
- Slide, The
4th class until one move at the top. Perhaps this is the better downclimb than the designated corner, which is blocky and dirty.
Feb 8, 2015
- Squeamish, The
I agree with Wayne, this was an excellent route with lots of variety, tricky gear, and wild and sustained climbing. There's some bits of chossy rock here and there but not too bad. Glad I was following that day, would be a fairly stiff (and exciting) onsight considering all of the factors.
Apr 13, 2012
Hmmm, not sure about all the haters re: this route, must expect perfect rock all the time or maybe they just top roped it and so missed out on the love? I thought it was every bit as good as it looked descending from Nobody's Home. This route has everything a Eldo adventure climber could ask for. Lots of fun and sustained .10 climbing with interesting gear placements, good rock, good movement, and good position. What's not to love?? Definitely R, I thought it tricky hard and sustained, .10+ serious R, or Habanero spicy. But it's all there, the rock is much better than Ivan's overwrought description, generally very good to good enough for the climbing and acceptable for the gear considering it's a real Eldo R rating. The most severe climbing for me was the 10+ face mid-height between the positive flakes that take fine gear but could break on a fall; traversing R. and up from the first to the the second flake. The crux is harder 10+ above the pin, great climbing, and after the pin the gear is good to the end. The pin is likley to hold a fall, but I agree not confidence inspiring, good micro nuts below and above it help inspire. And the last third above the pin is full-on Eldo GLORY CLIMBING, fantastic exposure, fun, steep, and sustained. Yes, the rock in the roof is not perfect, but it's fine, great gear abounds, don't stress ... enjoy! Typical heads up Eldo adventure climbing. I thought The Squeamish BIG FUN and highly recommend this line to those who enjoy such endeavors.
Mar 18, 2012
- Stay Hungry
Excellent route with lots of 5.10 climbing! A sustained and interesting finish too. Highly recommended.
Mar 26, 2012
- Stop!
- Stranglehold
- Tekneek
- Tombstone
There was a very annoyed sounding bat in this crack as of today about 10 feet up. Never got to see it, but sure heard him pretty much at my face/chest level and not very deep back. Looks like a really cool line and the opening moves were super fun. Hopefully can return to finish, sans angry bat.
Dec 31, 2016
Once you turn the lip and head for the tree anchor, make sure to flip your rope out of the crack, otherwise it will jam up really badly.
Jan 15, 2006
Rope eater.
May 9, 2005
Not bad climbing, it's just so short. Maybe 30'? Poison Ivy abounds.
May 21, 2004
Actually, while you do climb into an overhanging slot, you never have to use any wide crack technique to climb this route. It is really short and quite fun. I recommend bringing a #4 or even a #4.5 Camalot. You only need single units for this route and about 5 placements will protect it nicely.
Sep 13, 2001
- Uninspiring Wall
In the Steve Levin guidebook, it shows the route going straight up over the roof following a thin crack. The line drawn in the photo on this site shows the route going to the right of the roof. We went over the roof at the crack, and it felt about 5.5 in difficulty.
Aug 13, 2014
- W
One of the few routes I've ever looked at and said "that's just too bushy for me."
Feb 9, 2015
This "bushy" route is named after the current US President. It could also be called "Dubya". The quality is the same. Watch out for the poison ivy at the base of this and Plinth...
Oct 3, 2002
- Walk About
- Werner Brothers' Roof
There's also a super-quick walk-off option that works for everything from "Howard Placebo" to "Peters Out". The walk-off meanders north then west, hugging the cliff, and deposits you right back at your packs. As of 8-31-13, there was no rap station established on the tree Tony mentioned in the route description.
Aug 31, 2013
- You'll Poke Your Eye Out
- Island Rock
- Kloof Alcove
- Extendogap
Thanks for the props, Josh. I wonder who thought it broke? I felt like that one crux move was stout for 12c, so I assumed one of those holds crumbled or broke, but who knows? You're right about wondering who had/has climbed it, in Boulder there are so many secret crushers!
Apr 12, 2013
Matt, Nice Work! Cool to see somebody repeat this route, and a nice look back at the days when I was into the Eldo headpoint game. Looking at your video, it looks like the beta I used way back when, so I don't think anything has broken as the guidebook suggests. I've seen a few people toprope this line...Sonnie, Segal, etc...but to my knowledge, I don't know of anybody else that's led it. Of course in the Boulder area this is always a very sketchy assumption! Also Segal's route Smart Went Crazy is basically a harder version of this route, climbing the rail that leads right. Check out "Stupid Fly" if you haven't already. Super good, with two boulder problems instead of just one! Congrats again!
Apr 11, 2013
I got on this one today... it's hard... really hard. I'm excited to lead it. I think a few more TRs are in order. Maybe 13a. Has anyone climbed this thing since Josh? The guidebook says a hold has broken since the FFA.... My thoughts are this thing has gotten a bit more serious. I fired this rig on TR today, looks like the crux is very hard if you're not tall. It weighs in at a 12a boulder problem to a ledge to a solid V7 move to sustained techy 11a. You can punch in a bunch of gear at the ledge leaving you with a scary but safe (ish) fall from the crux (20 foot fall 25-30 from the deck). After the crux, you can place a very marginal 000 cam or small nut and run it to the top, definitely a no fall scenario. I will report back after I lead it. Ok sent... it's probably 12+ but hard and reach. Here is the video if you care: youtube.com/watch?v=vvyYkYu…
Mar 17, 2013
"Jeff Baldwin" should be changed to 'John Baldwin'.
Apr 17, 2010
Yo Josh, nice send!!!!! John Baldwin top-roped this line in about '94 or so. I top-roped it with him also and thought it was way hard. He did apply to bolt it but was denied. It's nice to see it get led with-out the bolts. Well done.
Nov 12, 2005
Sick Bird!!! Just an FYI - the #00 blew out and the #0 held (numerous times). Nice work, Josh.
Nov 11, 2005
- Flyswatter
- Half & Half
- Jimmy G.
- Kloof
Harder than some 11s for me probably because of the overhanging nature.
Jan 22, 2014
Curt - if Kloof wants to make you do more trad, then lead Sequential. It'll make you want to give up sport climbing and buy a rack of RPs and sliders!
May 31, 2012
This route is really fun. Makes me want to do more trad....
May 30, 2012
Really fun pitch. Not quite as long as I would have liked. The first 15 feet has no pro but, it is all positive and if you're going to make it up the rest of the climb, this shouldn't be a problem. Pro is pretty good the whole way. At the crux I found that a 0.4 c4 works low in the crack to the left; however, you have to set this piece blind and the crack isn't perfectly parallel throughout, so I would double this piece up. I think a green c4 or a red TCU would work pretty well in the main/wider section of the crack, but I didn't have one.
Jun 27, 2011
I've always done this route going up the crack at the beginning, instead of traversing left through the buckets (I do it like this because I'm a wanker and I like having pro, it doesn't look like there is much traversing left). I think done this way it's quite a bit harder than T2, because you arrive at the crux pre-pumped. Of course, doing it like this is probably contrived.... Save a grey C4, #0.4 or a yellow Alien for the crux.
May 29, 2011
I agree with Greg on this one. T2 is a bit harder. No stopper moves, just a jug haul with one hard move near the top. Fun climb though with cool moves and great gear.
Nov 15, 2007
...I Googled for "Kloof" and found that it's a town in South Africa. Also found this very relevent definition on BrainyDictionary.com: Kloof (n.) A glen; a ravine closed at its upper end.
Oct 24, 2004
What a great climb! I had no idea from the description that it was as long or overhanging as it is. Great gear except for the start, but don't overdo the gear, unless you're really strong, in which case you don't need to overdo the gear. For me it was 3 "pitches": Boulder to the ledge and haul up the gear. Free climb to the traverse. Aid climb to the top. Double ropes are useful, especially if you want to lower from the crux and let someone else try it. The right rope can protect the second to the start of the traverse. With a single rope to gear at the crux, someone TR'ing to there faces a big swing on the lower crux. There is a wide crack above the ledge to the left of the regular route that looks reasonable and has chalk on it. How hard it this, and do you traverse way right at the top of the crack, or can you continue up to the left end of the traverse on the regular route?
Oct 24, 2004
Regarding the direct start: traversing in from the left is the easiest way to gain the ledge, but the direct crack is not that tough (hard 10+). One move of insecurity, but the pro is not so good. I agree with Tony on the rest, difficult onsight as route finding is tough, as well as some difficult gear. But overall, a great route.
Apr 22, 2002
Rossiter's book gave the route a 10b/c on the title, but a close inspection of the topo shows an 11b crux! I'd just done Tagger (yes, all pitches) in 40-something degree temps and 50+ MPH winds Sunday AM before heading for Kloof. I regard Tagger as the yardstick for 10c in Eldo. Tagger was easy despite the winds and numb hands. Then I headed for Kloof and ended up taking a hang on gear. The big issue with the route is the wandering nature of the pitch, which leads to a lot of false starts with the "pump clock ticking" as it was phrased earlier. Don't even try to make this route go direct- just follow the easiest line, which may take a few tries to get. Once the path is KNOWN, then the route might be 11a, but it sure felt harder to on-sight. There is also the issue of the energy required to protect it well. After the first attempt, with some knowledge of the route, the redpoint will not be so difficult.
Apr 22, 2002
This is quite a good pitch. For its grade, it the most continuously steep route I can think of in Eldo. Rossiter used to grade it 10b/c (total sandbag) but upped it to 11a in his latest guide. It's still a tough onsight at 11a. It starts with about 15' of unprotected, overhanging 5.9, the hardest part of which is at the end where a fall would be highly undesirable. The pro at the crux is perfectly safe, but it's a little lower and off to the side of where, ideally, it should be; with double ropes the crux pro would be better. If this route were put up today in Boulder Canyon, it would be partially, if not entirely bolted, there would be a bolt right where you'd want it at the crux, it would probably be rated 11c (or harder), it would be very popular and it wouldn't be nearly as interesting.
Mar 11, 2002
- Lug's Crack
- Paligap
- Sequential
If you're missing a young child right shoe drop me a line. I have your kids shoe. Cheers, Byron.
Sep 17, 2017
Currently there is no fixed gear.
Jan 22, 2014
Steven means routes on gear not bolts. Big difference.
May 10, 2009
Steve Lucerelli wrote: "I'd agree with Rob, this route is by far the easiest 5.12 that I've done in Eldo and the gear is pretty obvious for most of the pitch. " Easier than Apple Strudel? I would have said that would be one of the easiest.
May 9, 2009
I totally agree! Unfair advantage if your name is "Hank Caylor". This would be a proud 12 send if you're a mortal.
May 7, 2009
Hey, I didn't say it would be an easy onsight. It's just a lot more climber friendly than say the "Wisdom" or even a route like "Foxtrot".
Feb 2, 2009
Well done but I'm afraid the onsight doesn't count if your name is Hank Caylor. It's an unfair advantage.
Feb 1, 2009
You da man Hank! Right now there are 2 fixed nuts. Only 1 about a year ago when I climbed it.
Feb 1, 2009
I onsighted it last Summer, but clipped all the fixed gear there was. I seem to remember that there was a fixed nut about everywhere you would really want one. 2 maybe, and the rest is bomber gear.
Feb 1, 2009
Sandbaggers! Onsighting this in good style (placing all of your own gear) would be well proud and stout. Even if you used the fixed gear, it would be a very challenging onsight as it's hard to recover from any mistakes at this angle. How many people have actually onsighted this?
Feb 1, 2009
I'd agree with Rob, this route is by far the easiest 5.12 that I've done in Eldo and the gear is pretty obvious for most of the pitch. If your looking for a potential 12a trad route to onsight in Eldo this one is probably your best bet.
Feb 1, 2009
I think Rob is saying the moves are not "technically" hard. I would agree, the crux factors on this climb are power and the strength to endure. The FA was done with one fixed nut to protect the crux moves near the top and having to place this piece would make it quite a bit more difficult since the pump factor is mainly what you are fighting on this one. I think difficulty perspectives are getting skewed here by some folks. This one is strenuous & powerful and you aren't going to be able to do it if you don't have the strength. If your burly, strong and light, this could feel easy,. I would say this one is pretty unique in its overhanging & strenuous character compared to many other Eldo 12's which tend to be more techy and not just brutally strenuous like this one.
Jan 21, 2009
I just think the moves are not too bad for a 12 in Eldo. As far as gear...well it is Eldo. It ain't no weenie roast up there. Safer than a lot of routes though I've been on.
Nov 26, 2008
I agree with the above posters, this is an awesome route! It's way overhung from beginning to end with only two rests, and even if you can make all the moves it's so sustained that it's really an endurance crux. Also, the direct finish staying in the crack to the very end is recommended and makes it a little harder than bailing left. Beware of sucker holds if going for the onsight... a few of the highly chalked holds are worthless and not necessarily part of the best sequence.
Nov 25, 2008
Super fun route that gets steeper the higher you climb. Great gear throughout. This is not your typical Eldo route and is probably a good first 12 for everyone.
Feb 4, 2008
One of the best single pitches in Eldo, if not the Boulder area. Excellent moves, consistently overhanging and great looking. It would be even better if you skipped the fixed nut and did the direct finish. With that combination, the route would warrant about 10 stars for quality.
Nov 9, 2004
- Superfly
Excellent route with a unique and bouldery crux move. An old #3.5 Camalot protects the flared placement more securely than a #3.
Jul 20, 2013
Mar 18, 2010
Boy oh boy....
Jan 13, 2010
Yeah, that #3 looks shady, fortunately there's a pretty good looking green Camalot a few inches below. Agreed that it shouldn't get an R, but you'd better nail every placement or else things could get dangerous in a hurry. -Scott
Jan 13, 2010
Shut up Josh, I nixed the R rating. If the SHALLOW #3 Camalot blows, tell me where to send the flowers.
Jan 3, 2010
Pro is definitely more than 5 feet apart but generally pretty good where you need it. I think injury could only be the result of a freak accident on this route for a competent leader. Also, we would start left of the line and traverse in right - following obvious, chalked holds and good climbing before the biz - the way Skip is doing it in the photo.
Jan 1, 2010
As a wimpy, bolt clipping, sport wanker, I found the gear on Superfly to be thin but very good and the pro was never more than 5 feet apart. The danger rating on this climb is very inflated. In my opinion, this route doesn't even deserve a PG 13 rating. So don't let the R rating keep you from trying this route. It's excellent, and very safe.
Nov 24, 2009
- Weevil's Walk
Climbing to access the first fixed pin (which is terrible) is 5.8, PG-13. The beginning of the crack is 5.10- then predominantly 5.9 for a bit. If the splitter crack were the length of a full pitch, there would be a line to wait in to get on this climb but the best quality is for about 20-25'. The second pitch is easily adjoined for 125' total as a single pitch. Take large stoppers and double down on hand-sized gear. Also - the best approach is via Jimmy G. (5.9+, fingers and hands - strenuous).
May 2, 2015
- Wizard, The
- Millennium Crag
- North Rock
- Peanuts Walls
- Lower Peanuts
- Air Guitar
Just did this today, very nice route! The distances between bolts are a little sporty, but a fall would be generally safe. In addition to some small nuts (not ideal), there's a pretty good small yellow Camalot placement between the first and second bolts.
Aug 27, 2003
- Aspenleaf Dihedral
- Black Pearl
Black Pearl is a really entertaining route and an awesome addition to the Lower Peanuts Wall. The route is very well protected, but the extremely thin and delicate nature of the climbing keeps you on edge for sure. Difficult and cryptic moves lead up and left from the fourth bolt. Some very demanding footwork and unique body position is needed to pass into the end of Scorpions. There is a set of anchors above this climb (for Scorpions) that is not visible from the ground. Awesome route!
Nov 3, 2008
The holds start out quite good, but around the 4th bolt it gets really thin. Then I assume it goes left after the fifth bolt to get to the top of Scorpions for the anchor.
Nov 2, 2008
Nice job Eric! This is a great route, but a large piece of rock at the second bolt is loose. Also, there is a loose flake in the dihedral/groove at the top of Scorpions. So be careful.
Apr 30, 2008
- Blows Against the Empire
I put in purple Metolius in the crack I took to the big ledge before the first bolt, then a yellow Metolius on the ledge. The crack to the anchors takes pieces in something like 0.3 to 0.5 Camalot size. As to the height-dependent nature, I'm 5'7" and could sorta reach the good hold, at least well enough to make the move. Seemed soft at 10d for me, but that's not to brag--I expect Eldo 10d to feel hard. I didn't feel getting to the first bolt was especially bold (in light of the good-sized holds you're on), but of course everyone needs to evaluate the risk for themselves. Be careful of rope drag if you put pieces in before the bolt--I extended, but not enough!
Jun 7, 2014
Fun route. If you start from the trail, as we did, then I'd take the shallow dihedral up, instead of the large, right-facing flake. It was pretty fun, and took a good nut. Also - if you are starting from the trail, make sure you knot your rope. We took a 70m, and it didn't have a lot left for lowering after the traverse onto the line. I'd also be a little careful. This is listed as a "G" rated .10d in the new Eldo guidebook, but if hard .10s are difficult for you, then getting to the first bolt might be pretty terrifying. It would be a bad fall. Chances are, if you can pull the crux, you won't fall getting to that first bolt, but if you're not solid on .10s... watch out, this might not be a good one to push the grade on.
May 9, 2011
Directly below this face is another face with piton in a seam and a 12" long vertical handcrack. It provided a few balancy and reachy moves to dual crimpers, followed by a big reach to the edge of the rotten ledge. My partner and I thought this was the start to Blows Against the Empire. Anybody know if this is a different route?
Jun 1, 2010
It's a fun, one move wonder at the crux, but I agree that it is an 11a move.
May 18, 2009
I've climbed many 10s in Eldo and a few 11s...certainly this route is a one move wonder but far from 10a. Perhaps, for a slabmaster, this route is easier than the first pitch of Outer Space, but for me it was thought provoking and a bit of a challenge. I think the rating is solid.
Mar 24, 2006
I just did this route last night and really enjoyed it. It is very safe and has fun climbing on it. There are no longer the fixed stoppers as mentioned in Ken's description. At the top of the wall, where Peanuts ends, there are two good bolts and a rappel anchor. You can rappel from here with one rope, though we continued up the ramp as recommended (in order to climb another pitch). I agree with Ken that this is the easiest 5.11 I've ever done in Eldo. Granted I haven't done that many, but this is a far cry from the first pitch of the Naked Edge. I'm six feet tall and I could reach the jug hold and even got both hands on it before sliding across the face (it was ugly, but worked). If you can reach this hold, the pitch might be as easy as 10a, but I hope no one rates it that easy. Certainly it is an easier lead than the first pitch of Outer Space (10a). Now that said, if you can't reach this hold, then it would be an entirely new ballgame. I'm amazed that Jimmy Redo would think this route is only 11a. I'd believe 5.11+ for someone short. You'd have to be a slab footwork master! Fun route. Bill
May 23, 2003
Who's spraying, A.C.? It seems like everyone here says this route is 11a (the rating listed). I guess there is even a short-person solution that makes this route 11a. Everyone is different and if this routes doesn't play to your strengths, it might feel tougher than 11a or visa-versa. Just like any route.
Aug 21, 2002
I'm 5'4". It still wasn't that hard. 11a seems fair, but barely.
Aug 21, 2002
Well... I'm 5'10" and I could ALMOST reach the hold. I have to use a funky foot smear to add a tiny bit of height. It felt like 5.11a that way to me. My partner was 6'0" and found it to be quite easy. If I'd been 4" shorter, it would have been *_quite_* hard.
Jun 16, 2002
I'm 5'11" and was just able to reach the good edge at the crux. If you can reach this edge, its probably the easiest 11 in Eldo.
Jun 13, 2002
- Chaucer
- Cornered, straight up variation
Just an FYI, after topping out this route, you can rap back to the base of Your Basic Lieback (which my partner and I used to get to this one) with a 70m. This is much quicker than either topping out and descending as for Star Wars, or doing 2 raps back to the base of the wall as is shown in the Levin guide. Also, sorry James, but the C3 was gone already.
Sep 22, 2014
I managed to get a red C3 stuck right around the cruxy bit. I tried to get it out on rappel, but it thwarted all of my efforts. If someone gets it out, I would be willing to meet up and trade some beers for it, but it is in there quite solidly. So, in the mean time, there is a solid piece of gear that you clip as you pull over the flake/roof!
Aug 18, 2014
Do the 5.9 section. Very fun and protects great.
Aug 22, 2011
Felt like solid Eldo 5.9 to me. Very nice thin crack, with good pro available.
May 18, 2008
I went straight up the Cornered variation and found it to be great fun. I think this is solid 5.9 as well. It protects well and makes a great finish to Your Basic Lieback.
Jul 26, 2006
Nice route straight up or undercling left. Nice entertainment just right on Forbidden Planet 11a.
Dec 6, 2001
This straight up version FA was Richard Rossiter in 1980, the original route Cornered or Dihedral (as it is renamed in the new guide book) goes left at large flake at top of dihedral, FA Erickson, solo 1978......I almost wussed out and went left at the beautiful undercling flake but the steep crack up the right side of the flake sucked me in....FUN.
Jan 1, 2001
Nice climb. Another way of descending: from the sloping ledge at the top, boulder up to the next ledge, then walk off toward the gully between Upper and Lower Peanuts.
Jan 1, 2001
- Criller
I think this should be bolted, Wayne spotted the line and put a lot of work into cleaning it up. After we climbed the route on top rope, and he realized it could be led, it was to him, his last mark he'd leave in Eldo before moving away.
Oct 2, 2015
The pieces left as directional weren't suppose to be there as fixed pieces, the day we went to lead these routes we noticed someone took down our intricate top rope anchor left up for the week. We had planned to lower off and clean the remaining directional pieces; however, we didn't want to deal with it and figured we'd clean on the follow. I think this could also make for a good mixed route (gear and bolts) as there are good natural gear placements. I think Wayne would approve of bolting. It's a great climb on good rock and his vision for a route on an intimidating wall.
Jan 20, 2015
This is a worthy route...a pain to rig for a TR, however. Wayne had preplaced some gear for his attempt which came in handy for directionals. I think this route is worth bolting. It would link nicely into Joe's pitch higher up. What would Wayne want?
Jan 20, 2015
- Dihedral
With 1 70m rope, you can rap from the Forbidden Planet anchor all the way to the base of Your Basic Lieback aka "Star Wars ledge".
Jul 30, 2015
Following the angling crux flake left doesn't even come close to .9. If we're looking to split hairs, I'd say .7+. The laybacks are bomber and the feet are all there. Fun pitch.
Oct 4, 2010
Ben, FWIW, there are 2 versions to finish this. To the right feels easier, 5.7. To the left is harder and probably 9-, briefly.
Sep 15, 2010
7? True that the crux is short, but it's harder than most Eldo 8s. I challenge you to list 5.7s at Eldo that are harder or on par with this.
Sep 14, 2010
Did this as a second pitch to YBL. Very high quality. Definitely would have felt like 5.9 if you try to place during the crux. Also, there is a little bulge above the anchors at the top that you can continue up and add another 20 feet to the climb (this ends right where Star Wars ends).
Aug 6, 2009
Nice Climb! Great Pro on the climb. I think the crux was 5.8- but I placed pro during the moves so it was probably harder than it needed to be. If you move through the crux without placing gear it is probably easier.
Jun 8, 2009
This really should be considered the second pitch of Basic Lieback. Done from the ground this route is a 3-pitch classic. I think its something in between 7 and 9-. My partner placed a cam under the flake and I felt very postive until I had to retrieve it....
May 6, 2008
I really liked this route. Two #2 Camalots protected the crux nicely, the rest of the route ate nuts. If you set up a belay at the crack with the rope and sit back on the ridge you can get some great pics of your partner (see photo). Look up about 20 feet for the glue-ins on top of Forbidden Planet (marked) and you can rap to the West a full 60M with rope stretch. We had a shortish 60M rope and had to downclimb 5 feet on very easy ground. Every ledge we were on was full of death blocks, wear a helmet!
Oct 26, 2007
I give it a 7. If you keep moving through the crux and stay focused, it's a cakewalk. Hang around and place gear on it, you just sandbagged yourself. I'll give that 9 variation an 8+ at best, there are obscure but good feet all the way up it. All in all, it's a great intro to 5.7 Eldo climbing.
Oct 22, 2007
I'm just breaking into 5.7+/5.8 routes this summer and after a ton of climbing in this range over the last couple months I would say this is harder than other sevens I've been on. It felt harder than Reggae and easier than the crux on Long John Wall so I think a 5.8 might be in line. The route protects superbly though and you can plug a couple #2 or #3 C4s at the start of the flake then go for it. The hands are bomber and once you start moving the crux is over before you know it. A 60 Meter will just get you back down to the ledge between Your Basic Lieback and Star Wars if you follow the line down through the trees. Make sure to knot your ropes though.
Apr 20, 2007
The flake offers very secure hand jams with a bumpy face below for delicate footwork, followed by a move or two of strong but secure liebacking. The whole pitch protects very well except for maybe the last move or two. It's a seven (maybe a hard seven). GEAR BETA: the dihedral prior to the flake eats up small to midsize nuts and has good stances. The scary looking triangular block in the right wall seems very secure. A yellow Alien goes in the corner just below the flake, and you can get a #2 Camalot followed by a #3 Camalot in under the flake.
May 7, 2006
Did this route today and found that the bolts up and right of the top of the route will give you a one rope rap with a 60m rope to the ledge at the base of Your Basic Lieback. Our rope was about two feet off the deck.
Sep 17, 2003
I led this recently and I don't think it is 5.7. The crux is the last 5 feet, you can put in a #2-#3 Camalot from the undercling and then go for it. Don't try to place anything after this or it will feel like 5.9 for sure (it's a short fall anyway). Fun pitch, no matter exactly what it's rated.
Jun 16, 2003
Not even close to 5.9.
Jun 14, 2003
Interesting that this climb was put in the database as a 5.7. If you look it up in the Rossiter book he has the left variation (this description) going left of the flake at 5.9-. If you look at the topo it is shown as 5.7. This is a common issue in the Rossiter guide, the descriptions are rated higher than the topos. But which one is right then? I lead it a couple of weeks ago and it is not 5.7. It felt 5.9ish to me. Grant it the tough part is not long but still... Maybe a really hard 5.8? Certainly harder then Reggea... The "straight up" variation is 5.9 and requires, at least the way I did it, some pretty wide stemming to be able to free at least one hand. All in all fun pitch either way. Cheers, WT
Jun 14, 2003
- Do or Do Not
- Double Cracks
- Easy Off
Ooh balzy, I know what you mean now - that would be a nice bouldery, ankle-twisting start - will try it next time.
Jul 31, 2005
Same climb, but you started to the right of where I did. I came in more from below the fat flake/ledge. I guess I didn't realize at the time that there even was a first bolt over there that was supposed to be a part of the route and more or less bouldered up to the flake, which is why I only described the second bolt. The line was pretty natural the way I did it. Beginning was 5.10 not 5.0 though. Same end result from a different start.
Jul 29, 2005
Warning! BETA! First, yes, it is height-dependent, However, I don't agree with most of the remaining description, unless, I am at a different climb that is certainly the MOST northeastern route on this lower wall. There are 2 bolts (older aluminum hangers)and one pin at the [mid-ledge]. Start up the 5.0 ramp (right-angling) to the first hanger, clip it and move left on thin hands but a reasonable foot (the only obvious foot down fairly low); match feet and move left to the edge of a small ledge, then bump up to a big, crisp hold (full-body hang on the left hand until the right matches). Then it's an easy up to the big ledge and the pin clip - mounting the big ledge is easy with a left sidepull. Now comes the face, and a fall could damage an ankle (due to the big ledge). Clip the hanger and pull some fairly crimpy edges/ledges, then repeat and you're up. Short but fun - and I agree, it's not a destination climb but worthy of a climb when at [Lower Peanuts]. I hope I didn't ruin [anyone's] climb with too much beta, but the description didn't seem to fit, and I'm still wondering. . . is this the same climb?
Jul 28, 2005
- Empire Strikes Back, The
- Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life)
Thanks, Steve! Really appreciated your help on this one. Good point on alternative approach pitches. I added those to the description. Hopefully, it'll see some action soon and the grade can be confirmed. I am open to raising it if warranted, but I think with the correct beta it's .12b.
Jun 8, 2014
Nice job, Joe, way to persist, stay focused, and get it done! You must have found some new beta if you think this is only 12b though! Or maybe you're doing some serious sandbagging!? By the way, for parties that don't want to do the Shield, it's easy enough to climb Blows Against the Empire or Peanuts and traverse left to the belay ledge.
Jun 8, 2014
Stop reading if you're attempting an on sight. A partial left kneebar/scum makes clipping the third bolt easier and affords a few good shakes. A kneepad makes it so you can almost get both hands off. The crux toss between bolts four and five can be a bit perplexing until the right beta is applied. It is not height-dependent, rather beta intensive. 5'4" climbers send when wired. Above the "shark fin" at bolt four is a good mini-ledge you throw to. With left hand on the mini-ledge and right hand on a decent in cut crimper, match left foot to left hand heel hooking. Be careful the heel hook is along the edge, so you don't scrape up your Achilles. Fire left hand to a small side pull crimp overhead. Spy the slightly left-leaning dihedral overhead. Move left foot to a heel toe cam on the mini-ledge, and pull with arms pushing hard with left leg. Make the crux toss with left hand for the bottom of dihedral. Clip bolt five, suss out the red point crux which moves right onto the lip/arête feature and take the fun wobbler if you botch it. Note, the "shark fin", some rock to its right and another lower feature in the roof sound hollow but are going nowhere. I crowbarred these extensively, and they are all bombproof.
Jun 7, 2014
- Faith, Hope and Charity
Congrats on the headpoint Joe and Alex, looks like a great line I'm excited to check it out!
Jun 11, 2009
- Fickle Finger of Eight
The first 30 ft are clean and beautiful, and an easy downclimb can be done from the ledge. It'd be classic if it were on a long route.
Aug 8, 2012
This pitch would be much more pleasant if it were climbed more. As is, it is currently pretty lichen covered.
May 8, 2011
- Forbidden Planet
Very worthwhile route, a little unusual for Eldo and a lot of variety for a short pitch.
Oct 8, 2017
Don't be discouraged by these posts, shorter people! I'm just shy of 5'7", and I loved this climb. It suited my strengths, and so I find the 11b grade appropriate. Myself and my boyfriend (5'10"), a stronger/skilled climber, had to work the first moves; a tricky onsight. But I figured out how to use my feet and balance and was then able to hit the those moves consistently. I hopped on again and led it after seconding, and it was my first clean 5.11 Eldo lead (granted- it is a sport climb...). Go for it, no matter what your height, if you like being persistent with creative footwork and balance (and have a little burl for the next section until it eases into a nice slab). Great for shade in summer heat, too. Have fun!
Sep 23, 2010
BETA WARNING! A left heel hook got me to the second bolt via the long reach to a positive small edge, and then I traversed out right on decent handholds but very thin feet. Moving up to the next four foot wide edge the edge has various better and worse places to grab it which are not obvious from below, at the right end of this horizontal it is a much more positive handhold which will also help you get on your feet on the right. I couldn't put it together today, but I will be back!
Jul 11, 2009
You know right where you are when you rap as the bolts' washers have, "Forbidden Planet" stamped on them; pretty classy.
May 11, 2006
For anyone wondering what happened to the description, I asked for a change in my submission from the 10d grade to the 11b grade to reflect the new difficulties associated with the absence of the formerly crux holds. While this may cause some confusion about the cause and nature of the comments that followed, for which I apologize, I thought it better than advertising the climb as a 10d on the front page, which at present would seem a sandbag.
Aug 24, 2005
When I did it you still needed some gear for the last part of the pitch on the arete above the crux - i.e. it's a mixed route, not a pure sport climb.
Aug 22, 2005
Did this climb today. If the hold that broke was where I think it was, it makes the move between bolts 1 and 2 harder for shorter people. At my height (5'10"), I could stretch up to grab the good crimp, and the crux passage through 1 and 2 still felt the same way it did when I first did this route, around a decade ago. Great pitch -- if you can reach that hold!
Jul 27, 2003
Hey, Rich. The outer part of that hold popped off on me a few weeks ago. I guess the whole thing's gone now, huh? Bummer! This has to make the route substantially harder. That section was never a piece of cake to begin with! ... What a fun climb, though! The obvious 'approach pitch' is "Your Basic Lieback" 5.6, which is fun, as well...in a different way!
Jul 16, 2003
A small flake pulled off the route today in the middle of the crux. Since I couldn't firgure out the way to get through this section clean, I don't know if this was the crux hold or not. The resulting edge that was left is almost exactly the same size as the original and has only a slightly different angle, so I don't think it will change the nature or difficulty of this section too much. These moves felt a lot harder than 11a/b to me (6'5" tall). Guess I need to do some more sport climbing...
Jul 11, 2003
Very reachy between first and second bolts.
Jun 12, 2003
As with all routes, the rating depends on the strengths or weaknesses of the climber rating it. My guidebook calls this route 11a/b and, for me, it felt solid at 11b because of the burly moves out onto the face. I couldn't do it clean. I lacked the lock-off power and the clock is ticking. I eventually got up the route but used no fewer than five deadpoints. The upper, technical face climbing was exciting, but thankfully not as steep. A really great, short climb! Bill
May 23, 2003
I think this route deserves its 11b rating. It's technical and reachy at the beginning.
May 18, 2003
The large sidepull hold near the first bolt has broken off, making the start a little harder now. I did a direct start a bit down and to the right of the first bolt. (You'll want to first go up to the left and reach up right to clip the 1st bolt, then come back down to the right to start climbing.) This seemed about 11b or so, although it is probably height-dependent. (I'm 6' tall with a 6' reach.)
Aug 2, 2002
Here is another score for the raven haired power meistress, Andrea Azoff. Forbidden Planet climbs out right to an arete from the belay in the prominent corner marking the upper one third of the Lower Peanuts Wall. You will pick up a bolt just before the arete and one just after stepping around right on to the face. The crux is getting established on the face. From here on up its just pure clean edge climbing, never harder than 5.10, on bullet proof stone. Probably no single move even ticks in at 5.11b. Great line. Two raps to the ground, or walk off to the right towards the Upper Peanuts.
Mar 1, 2002
- Good Mourning
- Home Free
The two protection bolts on Home Free were updated to half-inch stainless steel bolts. Many thanks to ACE, Eldorado State Park and to Bruce Hildenbrand for the support and the help. A picture of what came out of the rock shown below: Bolt removed from Home Free.
Aug 13, 2016
Overall, good route with two 10+ to 11- cruxes and some questionable rock that should be treated with care. Red or yellow ballnuts or small nuts may be helpful on the first pitch. One can stand on the questionably attached flake with questionably solid gear placed behind it and tiptoe over to the bolt on fingertip underclings.
Aug 31, 2015
Clipping the bolt is scary going straight off the flake.... I don't really understand where people usually go on this.
Jul 9, 2014
I didn't realize this was two pitches. We always just do it in one pitch with the use of some runners. My brother is a little fella, about 5'8" with shoes on, and never had an issue with the crux. It's just a more committing move for the wee person, but you're on top rope because of a well placed bolt. This is a nice technical climb. I brought a strong gym climber here once and it was like V4 for him.
Sep 6, 2011
Wew went up and did this again on Sunday. I was able to protect the first pitch with small stoppers, and RP's. The large flake just before the 1st pitch crux is now loose, and will change the beta when it cuts loose. Still a nice route. 2nd pitch did not seem as tough as it was 15-years ago...
Jul 22, 2009
You might be in trouble if you are under 6ft on P2. There is a reach to the first bolt and to the solution jug. After the crux, it is possible to head right instead of left. It looked more secure and had less lichen.
Jun 20, 2009
I made the mistake of trying to climb directly above the flake to the bolt, which is a difficult series of moves with a sketchy cam placement in the flake. Apparently, as mentioned by Tony, the route goes left at the flake and then to the ledge. I obviously missed this and went straight for the bolt (bad idea). The flake is strong but I wouldn't trust it to hold a fall. Going for the bolt directly from the flake is sketchy as hell, so I climbed around it. The first pitch is definitely doable, although as mentioned, I wouldn't push your limits here (I'm a 5.10 leader and this was a thinker). The gear is good, just be certain to be quick about placing it. Aliens, Aliens, Aliens, and a #3 BD stopper.
Jun 19, 2006
- Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power)
- Just Another Girl's Climb
Quality route that gets lots of shade. A few tips: Bring a bit of gear to place at the ledge before you clip the bolt...the clipping hold is a bit suspect. I imagine that if you are under 5.7 or so, it may be impossible to clip the bolt without a mini-stick clip. I soloed up the 5.6 and then found a 0.75 and 1 Camalot amongst the shattered rock on the ledge, and I actually put two draws on the first bolt, because I watched a draw come unclipped in the gym recently, and if it came unclipped here... it would be a day ender. The movement is really technical and engaging, and I actually found there to be three distinct cruxes all about the same in difficulty and each of them unique... the second crux is harder if you are short but possible as proven by my wife after some beta sussing. The final moves to the anchor are spicy. I would call this route excellent and totally worth getting on. The anchors are actually to the right and hidden in a corner. I'm pretty sure you could also climb the 5.6 to the right and then traverse the ledge to put this on top rope, but if you are a reasonably solid 5.11 climber... just go for it. They don't bolt them like they used to... no fluff bolts here.
Oct 27, 2014
- Let's Jet
Pleasantly surprised by this one, and the rock was better/cleaner than it looked from the ground.
May 12, 2013
I found both the moves off the ramp and after the second ramp to be reachy (I'm 5'6"). Levin's guide calls this 10b, but I found it way more desperate than Blows Against the Empire (10d in the book).
Sep 15, 2012
- Narrow Gate, The
Brad Bond and I talked and the consensus is that Brad and his partner probably did the FA about ten years ago onsight. Congrats! I spent about an hour scrubbing the slab on my lead so it's cleaned up a good bit.
Jul 26, 2008
- No Visible Means of Support
I thought this was a really fun route, probably worth three stars if not for the choss band (plenty solid) and the circuitous-wandering nature of the line. The bottom is definitely 5.8R, but that's significantly below the grade, so I think it's more of a PG-13 route, Jalapeño spicy. Tricky but good gear, a little spaced here and there. I found Loweballs to be very useful and inspiring in many of the thin cracks and flakes. Aaron's description sums it up well, I would probably not use the flexing, suspect KB on Easter Island next time as there is a good nut ~3' below and the single bolt is 6' directly L. of this pin causing some awkward drag with both clipped even with long slings. Definitely bring at least a half dozen shoulder slings. Exciting, technically sustained climbing past the bolt and out the notch. Well worth seeking out, pretty classic Eldo style. An unknown gem of a line, nice work, Mike!
May 12, 2013
- Nova
I "lead" this route a few years back... this consisted of soloing the route with a rack and rope tied on, then down-soloing the Double Cracks. It is just not protectable... or worth the effort.
Jul 15, 2002
- Off The Cuff
So is the X rating obsolete then?
May 3, 2014
Fun, easy climbing, guarded by some lichen and loose blocks. Gear is sparse on top, but the crux is at the bottom. Makes for a good 100 ft pitch to the summit ridge. Take RPs and micro cams. A tall leader can get in a piece from the top of the decapitated flake before continuing on. Located 8 feet left of the clean "Fickle Finger of 8", left-facing dihedral. Start at a short overhand with a wide slot in it. Head for the obvious OW and tree reaching out at the top.
Aug 8, 2012
Indeed the flake on the left has been decapitated and is safe to climb.
May 30, 2012
It seems that this worrisome block has fallen off....
Jul 30, 2003
- Peanuts
This is a great pitch. I love the movement on this climb. The finger crack traverse is exciting and well-protected. I thought the short, angling, finger crack right below the chains was the crux as well, but there are great locks and perfect feet that you just have to commit to! Do this pitch! You won't regret it....
Aug 21, 2017
Tricky little climb! Quite fun, and in the end pretty fair for the grade. Neat swinging around left and then finding the way up that is hidden from below.
Jan 17, 2017
All the moves are there, but I definitely found this a hard onsight. The gear is good but quite thin. I don't like swinging falls on C3s. I found Blind Faith and Handcracker much easier even though they are in the 10 range, but...welcome to Eldo.
Jul 3, 2014
Awesome route, one of the best pitches at its grade in Eldo, I would say, despite the lackluster start. Yesterday when I did this we couldn't get out an old #1 Friend I placed after the crux and below the pin. It's a piece I've had for a while and would love to get it back. If any one gets it out, there's a pitcher from the Southern Sun in it for you. My cell number is 720-938-7626.
Jul 8, 2013
I was surprised to see that this doesn't have more stars. The position is great, the movement interesting and varied, and it's one of those improbable lines that looks harder than it is. Holds appear right where you need them. Now one of my favorite 9s at Eldo. The scrambly start does detract a bit, but the upper part is so clean and aesthetic, I still give it 4 stars. As far as difficulty, no way is this any harder than 5.9. Other Eldo 9+s are WAY harder (such as Hair City, P1 of Rincon, P1 of Pony Express, P1 of Tagger, etc). Just have faith that the holds (and gear) in the hand traverse are bomber and don't get stressed.... This climb can actually be quite restful. Super fun!
Jun 28, 2013
I didn't place anything bigger than a #0.75 C4. There's a place for a #3 and #2 on the 5.easy start just above the dead log. Bring plenty of finger-sized cams.
Nov 3, 2012
I agree the pro is very good. This route sucks Aliens/Mastercams off your rack. You might want to bring two sets.
Jul 9, 2011
There really is a finger crack after the flake/overhang. Can't see it from the ground. Grab the flake, lean back, and there it is. Nice route.
Aug 3, 2010
Once you know the moves, yes, 5.9. But for the on-sight leader, better to think 10a/9+, because it is hard to see the moves on the traverse. You have to feel your way across. Definitely worth doing, and by the way, the rap to the ground is no problem on a 65 meter rope.
Jul 9, 2010
I agree with comment above that pro is good, and so I don't think leaders should be scared off by the description that this isn't a good climb to "press your limit" or whatever. If you bring a good selection of small cams in particular, you can double them up and most of climb would be easily aidable on bomber pieces, and few moves that are not (end of traverse) are just past bomber gear (I placed yellow Mastercam in horizontal crack after the "pod"). I always hesitate to weigh in as I'd feel bad if someone followed my comment and got hurt, but I wanted to share my opinion as Eldo only has a limited number of climbs at any given rating with really good pro, and this seems like such a 5.9 to me. Of course every leader is responsible for his/her own safety. Also, this is 5.9 in Rossiter's guide: I wonder why so many feel need to use a + or -: 5.9 seemed fine. Edit--led today (10/22/16) and still agree with my old comment, but add that i put in more small and medium nuts this time than I remember, so bring a good selection of those too if this is likely to be challenging climbing for you.
Jun 29, 2009
Superb route. Great anchors at the top.
Jun 18, 2009
Maybe I am alone here, but I think that this is one of the better 5.9s in Eldo. Only the length (short) and the 40 ft of scrambling to the base take away from this climb. Much easier than P1 of C'est La Vie or Hair City.
Nov 3, 2008
To clarify, there is a very nicely placed rap anchor on top of P1 of Peanuts. You can climb up to the anchor then lower off 100' to the ground. Close the system and have the belayer tie in or knot the end of the rope! Fun climb!
Oct 24, 2008
I did not read this site prior to climbing this today and looking up from the base I was not sure what holds there could possible be after the flake. I had more doubts than usual. Then, a short hand traverse put the biggest smile on my face. The vertical crack going to the anchors had some additional fun moves. It may be short and have an uninspiring start but this was a fun climb for me. I think not knowing of the hand traverse made it even sweeter, so don't read this.
Aug 19, 2007
The route felt on the easy side of 5.9 to me and the pro is great. The crux is short and the finger crack at the end is really fun. There are some small foot holds that, if used, decrease the difficulty.
Jul 3, 2005
Can be led with a set of nuts and a couple sets of TCU's. If you wanted, you could place pro every 2-3 feet on the traverse. Don't let the above comments scare you off, give it a go.
Jul 19, 2003
Fun route. Be sure to wedge your body behind the over-hanging flake and enjoy a perfect no-hands rest before you tackle the traverse. The final crack up to the anchor felt more difficult than the crux traverse; steep finger locks with insecure feet. Be careful of loose rocks when pulling your rope if you rap. I pulled a few grapefruit sized rocks off and almost crushed a few friends. Sorry guys! Also, Rossiter's guide suggests scrambling up to the ledge below the 5.7 climbing and belaying there. My partner belayed from the ground and it worked out fine. 100' to the anchor.
May 23, 2003
- Pretender, The
- Right Escape
- Sacred and the Profane, The
Thanks for ripping that off, you f'd up the route....
Aug 10, 2014
The good undercling before the last 20 feet of hard climbing ripped off today. The route is still climbable, just a little harder. Sorry!
May 20, 2012
Damn, wish it was acceptable to hang static ropes laced with quickdraws off of everything....
May 19, 2012
Gear for the start, 4 spaced out bolts, R rating - yeah, I'd call that a sport route.
Apr 19, 2012
- Scorpions
Pretty soft for the 11b and PG-13 rating.... I wouldn't be too concerned with the PG-13 tag. This thing protects very well in my opinion. I'm not even sure where there would be cause for concern? Anyway, this is a classic pitch on good stone with a variety of movement!
Sep 22, 2015
Clipping the first bolt is extremely pumpy. There are fixed draws on it right now. The first draw looks good. The second one has a sharp rope-end biner. Be careful.
Jul 6, 2015
The bolts are in terrible locations and make the crux avoiding tangling the rope in your feet and clipping.
Jul 9, 2014
The climb is awesome up until the crux. I myself didn't enjoy the crux, but maybe that's cause I was trying to stay in the corner.
Aug 12, 2013
This thing is great. It's a great and long pitch if you climb it straight up into Air Guitar. I climbed it many times before my brother asked me if the giant flake you pull into through the crux made me nervous. He pointed out it was a bit rattly to me, and now I'm a little more paranoid about it.
Sep 6, 2011
A good route, and I was more nervous going into it than I should have been. It is a safe route as long as the pin holds (but you probably won't be falling onto it). Apparently I went the wrong way at the first bolt and climbed straight up the edgy face to the left of the bolt, instead of staying in the shallow dihedral to the right. I would say it's about 5.11 still, but if you think that is the route, the bolt placements seem really goofy, and the second bolt is really hard to clip.
Aug 26, 2011
The loose flake mentioned by Taylor is no longer there. I was almost through the dihedral crux and I suddenly found myself airborne along with the suspect flake. Nobody was hurt and my partner and I both think that the modification didn't really change the climb.
Jun 12, 2011
There is a loose flake in the dihedral/groove at the top of this route. So be careful.
Apr 30, 2008
A worthy route and one of my favorite routes on Peanuts. Good climbing with a steep and pumpy crux. Doing this and linking it with Forbidden Planet on upper wall of Lower Peanuts makes for good outing on Lower Peanuts.
Oct 9, 2005
'S' only in the sense that it could be dangerous if gear blows. The piton looks suspect and the gear below it (green alien in the description above... I got a stopper which frees up the hold) is in a somewhat hollowish sounding flake. Steeper and pumpier than it looks.
Jul 19, 2004
Did this recently and thought it was a great route, and relatively well protected too. This really is THE line started by Peanuts, and it seems as if Peanuts should be considered a variation to this route, not vice-versa. Nuts and Aliens and the fixed gear present can sew it up about as well as your standard Eldo route; and all of the hard moves have fixed pro right where you need it.
Sep 26, 2003
- Shield, The
After the crack tapers into a left-facing corner in a sloping dish feature and the climbing eases way up climb up another 10' feet and set a bely on a nice ledge that is a bit jagged in spots. Save a gold and red Camalot for the belay. Pitch two is fairly dirty and probably gets done once every five years or so. I was scared considering this was only 5.9 climbing. I wonder where Kenny took the plunge from?
Jul 24, 2008
Interesting to see this here; of course after Kenny died the route got the name Psycho Killer due to Kens' seriously unstable personality. The story continued to get interesting after the accident; I won't risk being disrespectful in this post, suffice it to say perhaps there is such as thing as karma or destiny.
Jun 19, 2008
- Sickle
Easily protected the whole way, especially if you bring a #4 Camalot or similar. Fun but short, crux at bottom.
Aug 8, 2012
- Star Track
This route deserves the bomb. The loose flake and bushwacking under the tree brances tip you off that this climb isn't worth it. Step 10-20 feet right and do Star Wars instead.
May 6, 2008
The beginning is so easy, then it gets so sketchy, so interesting, and then it's so over. My favorite part besides sending it was reaching around a corner to place the two smallest nuts in the thinnest crack and allowing those placements to boost my confidence just enough to turn the corner. It puts a smile on my face to look back on it and know I lived through that!
Nov 13, 2017
Steve, way to go! You da man!
Jul 15, 2007
The interesting line Leo mentions has been led. See "Do or Do Not".
Jul 15, 2007
Oh, yeah. I forgot to mention this. There is an interesting line between Star Track and Star Wars, 1st pitch. It starts up a crack that fades into thin face holds. Steeper than its neighbors. I wonder if anyone has done this previously?
Jul 16, 2002
- Strata Outta Compton
- Strolling
- Tracer
This route falls somewhere between a highball boulder problem and a climb. The crux is down low but the pro is bad here. Above the horizontal crack it gets easier and the fall potential is less. Then its over. The climbing is fun but overall its too short to be a climb.
May 6, 2008
- Trouble And Strife
This is a really fun route. However, to put this on the same playing field as 5.10 Crack, Grandmother's Challenge, Blind Faith, or Darkness Till Dawn is joke. I would say 5.9+, and that feels generous. PG
Sep 10, 2017
I liked this little climb! Short but full value and protects well. Good fun!
Jun 30, 2015
Short and very physical climb. Got on it because the Levin guidebook rates it 10b. I'd say it is definitely solid/hard 10. Not at all PG-13, gear is solid the whole way.
Jun 20, 2015
I would recommend pre-clipping an extendable draw onto a 0.75 cam for the traverse. Fiddling around trying to hook the cam sling deep in that crack is hard. Save some trouble and have it clipped, ready to extend.
Oct 7, 2014
Plenty of gear on this one and the swing fall is no problem. WARNING GEAR BETA: Green Alien, red C3, red #1 C4 in initial creck, yellow #2 C4 / green #0.75 C4 at horizontal jug, blue #3 C4 past the hand jam (or other possibilities on traverse), red or yellow C4 in top cracks, optional green C4 protects the second above the moves. There's a good boulder thread for TR without going all the way up to the Star Wars ledge/tree.
Aug 8, 2012
There is a bomber 0.75 placement back in the crack to use if you don't have the #4. The spot for the #4 seemed kinda hollow anyhow.
Jun 18, 2012
I thought this climbed way harder then it looked and its grade, maybe it's because I'm short, old and fat. There isn't another 10b in the canyon that has shut me down like this one. I thought is was really technical down low with strenuous gear placements, to bomber hands if all the gas wasn't spent on the first 10 feet. Anyway, I'm going to loose 10 lbs and try again. Anyone know the rating if you climb in from the left as opposed to straight up?
Oct 16, 2011
Awesome link up to Star Wars or any other climb up there. Didn't know what it was, but I am glad I did it!
Jun 21, 2007
Finally! Always wondered what this one was called. Next time I won't stick all the gear where my fingers need to go...and I'll bring a #4 cam for the diagonal band. All and all--good fun! And it DOES make for a good link-up with Star Wars, to be sure.
Jun 8, 2006
Fun linkup to Star Wars. #6 BD stopper, blue Alien, #2 Camalot, #3 Camalot for the traverse, and a #1 Camalot for the final paired cracks.
Sep 5, 2005
A #3.5 Camalot works good for protecting the band traverse; otherwise, one can climb the band unprotected and risk a swinging fall.
Jul 23, 2002
This is a short, but fun and demanding lead. Four pieces of pro will get you through it, which include a small wire (3?), [a couple of] medium and a large cam (not sure exact size). I wasn't psyched about the direction of the cam placement at the crux, about 15/18 ft up, so I stuck two in (a 6&7 [Trango size])... The climb goes straight up the finger crack, then right into an open, diagonal band (where you need the large cam). (There's also a variation that follows a crack from the left into the crux). Decent feet on the right when you're pushing past the band. Once through that traverse there's plenty of space to rest, then a pair or cracks on top that are easier to negotiate. This route is a bit like a 10a boulder problem sitting on top of a highball V1... fun!
Jul 22, 2002
- West Crack (aka Star Wars)
I was expecting something great, we even played Star Wars music on the drive in ... it was ok. The crack is fantastic, but REALLY short! I found it much easier than an Eldo 8, but it depends on your crack technique. Perfect size for hand / foot jams. I suggest saving two 0.75 cams for the top half of the climb (after the crack). I can't remember what I placed in the crack, but it had enough variation to not force you into just one size cam.
Jul 19, 2017
To the couple who had to abandon their cam on the last pitch yesterday, we were able to get that sucker out! Contact me, and we'll arrange to get it back to you.
Jul 10, 2017
Really fun, even after the jam crack.... It turns into this interesting dihedral crack thing, which is quite different. This climb is recommended if you are in the Peanuts area!
Jan 17, 2017
I climbed this directly from bottom of crag, obvious worn tree/hand crack a little wide at top with loose gravel to link (p2) into Star Wars ledge directly into a beautiful money pitch. Much fun, bring a helmet. I don't know what I climbed, haha, but this variation requires 2 pitches. I used my 70...and some doubles.
Mar 19, 2016
Do this climb! I would suggest linking pitches as the first pitch is very short and doesn't need hand-sized gear that you will use higher up.
Oct 13, 2015
West Crack was listed in Ament and Erickson's guidebook "5.10," which was published in 1972, which is before the Erickson/Barber tandem solo. I believe that West Crack (aka "Star Wars") was first climbed in the '60s. I climbed West Crack in 1976, with Doug Hill, before Kevin Donald's "first ascent" changed its name to "Star Wars." To sum up: "Star Wars" is the same as West Crack; pitch 2 of "Star Wars" is pitch 2 of West Crack.
Sep 18, 2014
Fun climb with plenty of opportunities for protection. Just remember to bring your tennis shoes for the descent as it is no fun going down in climbing shoes.
Aug 3, 2013
Fun, fun, fun climb...too bad the crack isn't longer (as usual)! I definitely did a layback on the crux move (see at about 3:50 in video) and was pretty easy for a newer climber -- doing a mantle would have been a bit more challenging for my skinny arms. vimeo.com/29796444
Oct 1, 2011
Led this today in 2 pitches. First pitch was easy 5.5. Belay in the rotten band at the base of the second pitch has a VERY loose, large block. If we had someone to clear the base of the wall, we would have trundled it. Be careful. The crack on P2 was sustained and pumpy. A #2.5 Friend and a #2 Camalot sewed it up. Mostly jams. The v-slot was just awkward. Exiting the v-slot required a high step. Belayed just below the summit in the wide slot. Probably not ideal. Lots of loose/hollow flakes up there. Be careful. Needed nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot on either pitch.
Sep 5, 2011
Finally got a chance to lead this yesterday after having followed it about 3 years ago. Pretty steep and sustained jams, but there are workable stances every body length or so, as mentioned. I had a hard time getting solid jams at the crux before the exit right and ended up pumping out trying to get set my hands in the crack. After a quick shake out, I just laybacked through the crux as well. The v-slot up high is sweet.
Oct 4, 2010
From top to bottom, a beautiful climb. I don't know if it is a size thing or what, but on P2 I felt the hands were good enough, but I could never really get a good foot in that crack - just seemed a little small for some reason (my inherent weakness?). Having not been out in a while, that second pitch provided a little more pump than I expected for a 8. Definitely do this in one pitch - there should be no problem with rope drag on this thing.
Jul 19, 2010
Fun crack for Eldo. Definitely some loose stuff on the ledges and "P1" but as long as you're careful it's not a big deal. The climb eats nuts if you don't have doubles. Definitely link the pitches. The V slot/offwidth has great rests the entire way if you want them, and the hand crack opens for easier feet at least every body length.
Jun 2, 2010
Star Wars is an enjoyable climb albeit the hand crack is rather short. I climbed this today and as my belayer was beginning to follow me up pitch 2 he managed to knock off a sizable few blocks off the chossy ledge as he was removing our gear sling after cleaning the belay. Excuse me for stating the obvious, but exercise caution on the chossy P1 belay ledge. Good thing it was shady and cold so we were the only people up there. Another option for the descent: If you scramble traverse up the ramp on the back of the wall you will see a hole in between a notch that leads to a large tree with slings and 2 rap rings. We added another 7mm cord on the 2 existing slings, one of which was crap. The tree seemed well rooted and strong at this time.
Nov 29, 2009
Too thin for it to be good jams for my big hands :-\
Aug 7, 2009
Only do pitch 2. You can get to it by walking right and talking the big chossy ledge down to the start of P2.
Jun 18, 2009
This felt much easier to me than YBL (5.6) next to it... the hand crack is perfect. Excellent hand and foot jams and everything is so secure. If there were 5 pitches of this, it would be my favorite Eldo climb. Doing it in one pitch felt like the way to go. One long sling on my first pitch of the hand crack and there wasn't any rope drag. The first pitch can easily be protected with smaller gear to save your hand sized cams (#1 and #2 BD) for the crack. The approach and the loose rock on the ledges detracts a bit, but I still loved the route.
Jun 12, 2009
Do this as one pitch from the lower ledge. You'll only wish the crack was longer!
Nov 3, 2008
What a great climb. I would highly recommend this to any level climber.
Jun 21, 2007
When we (myself and 3 International Alpine School students) first climbed this lovely, atypical (for Eldorado) crack in '77, it was the location (high above the river) and the curved geometry of the crack and dihedral that intrigued us. At first glance, I felt it would be somewhat more difficult than 5.8; however, the jams were secure and by Yosemite standards it is quite short. We had no camming devices, but it accepted nuts easily. The students were stoked to do what we thought was a first and the next day Paul Sibley did the climb and confirmed the 5.8 rating . Interestingly enough, I described the crack to long-time friend and mentor Jim Erickson the next day and he could not recall having ever seen it. However he has since mentioned that it may have been the mysterious "West Crack" that he tandem soloed with Henry Barber a few years earlier. Regardless, I still feel that this little climb, short as it is, is worth the approach. Kevin Donald
Apr 30, 2007
Climbed this today (on second). Nice first pitch from the lower ledge (5.7). Fun jugs just where you need them (gotta love Eldo!). The exit onto the ledge under the hand crack was sweet. I found the hand crack a little strenuous. Upper half I said "Screw it" and laybacked the final moves into the V-slot above. Of course, this is probably easier on second. The V-slot and notch through the roof were pretty funky, but fun. All in all, a terrific 2-pitches. For descent, it seems that scrambling south to the notch up there is the way to go.
Mar 11, 2007
Great route. The uniform crack on P2 makes for some strenuous laybacking on P2 depending on handsize.
Sep 6, 2006
Unlike Liebgott and Johnson, I found the entire climb exciting and enjoyable. If you are looking for long crack climbs, Eldo is the wrong place. The route has a nice mix of face climbing, crack climbing with a few contortionist maneuvers that keep it fun.
May 30, 2006
I agree with the previous comment. This route wasn't all that amazing from the boasting I have heard. I would say it "looks" better than it tastes. The hand crack looks really cool but only offers a couple moves and were a little wide at the top for my hands.
Sep 27, 2005
I was expecting a much better route from the description. The fun hands section is probably 25 feet long - the rest is not all that exciting or enjoyable. There was a fixed Tech Friend at the bottom of the hand crack that will likely come out without too much work. I could not booty it, but not for lack of trying. My hands were too big to really work the lobes, but they all 4 moved. Booty for some lucky dog.
Sep 13, 2005
This was great - we climbed it twice. great protection all the way up (Camalots #0.75, 1 and 2 (bring a couple #2s) and a couple of Aliens - yellow and red. Nuts are useful too) The first 20 feet are on solid holds, the crack is Perfect (#2 Camalots) and the v-slot above it is actually a lot easier than it looks since you can use good holds on the face and on the arete. A #1 and/or a .75 camalot protects the v-slot. Once you're above the v-slot and over a small and easy roof it is a scramble on big holds to the top (you could run this out pretty safely if you're out of gear) The climb is easily do-able in one pitch - it's about 100 feet to the top.On the approach I was walking around at the base of the base of peanut wall and looking at rossiter's topo for about 10 minutes before my friend yelled down from a ledge about 15 feet above to let me know that the climb started up there. So once you reach the base of the wall, hike up and right in order to get on top of a ledge which is at the base of the route. Now that you have all this info you probably don't even need to go climb it!
Apr 19, 2005
I can't comment on the rating because it seems to me that different guides really describe this one differently. I climbed 4 variations between Home Free and Your Basic Lieback (also good). One post names one variation but does not describe it. They go at .7 to about .9+ . Does anyone have more beta?
Jun 12, 2004
The variation to the first pitch I suggested is called Trouble and Strife.
Apr 24, 2003
Wow, great crack pitch! Too short tho. 3 comments - there are foot holds (small ones, yes) on the left face. I pretty sure I only jammed my right foot most of the way and smeared or stood on nubbins on the left. Also, I thought the crack exit was more of a layback than a mantle. If you sew up the crack and don't want to run it out, you might want to save a #1 Camalot (possibly .75) for the 5.6 slot/crack above. I had some crappy hexes in there. It's easy 5.6, but would still make for a long fall.
Apr 15, 2003
Beautiful and varied climbing -- and very fun squirming up the v-chimney.
Mar 15, 2003
(There sure are a lot of 'Chris's registered on this site...Anyway-) What a beauty! I followed this a couple of years ago and have been itching to get back on it on lead...which I did yesterday with, ironically, Chris Drumwright. Only one substantial comment-watch out for the 'oh-so-nearly-so-perfect' big chock stone in the V slot as one pulls the small roof on P2. I'd hate to see it levered out of there. Enjoy! Don't forget those extra #1 and #2 (and 2.5?) Camalots if you're into sewing up the hand crack! And Chris would say that having big hands makes the climb suck a little bit.
Oct 9, 2002
Somewhat unique Eldo climb, with good pro...highly recommend.
Sep 30, 2002
Awesome climb. The second pitch of Star Wars offers good hand jamming and laybacking. Definately, bring hand size pro for the second pitch. Have fun!
Jul 22, 2002
Nice climb. Wasn't sure where to start... we did the off-width that's up around the corner from Trouble and Strife. Nice varied, easy climbing to the base of the second pitch...
Jul 22, 2002
Good route! It is possible to add some quality climbing by doing a short 1st pitch right off the trail instead of going up to the ramp and then back down. The pitch is an obvious crack that goes straight up off the trail for 15 feet then hand traverses right then up a finger crack. It starts directly below the obvious crack on pitch two of Star Wars. It is about 50 feet long and probably 5.9+, watch for a loose block during the hand traverse....
Jun 23, 2002
Here's a fun way to end an evening that a friend showed me - instead of the final roof and belay from the summit, put in some pro to protect the second and hand traverse left once above the hand crack. Very Airy traverse! - You can then belay from the bolt anchors on Forbidden Planet (try topping that stellar line if you like). Easy two rap down to the ledge instead of a hike.
Aug 28, 2001
I also think that doing it as one pitch is the best way. The crack was a great jammer without many rest spots. I also really enjoyed the exit at the top of the 5.8 crack. Highly recommended for crack lovers.
Jun 13, 2001
It seems like I climbed this route every few weeks one summer -- my favorite 5.8 in Eldo. Highly recommend doing it as one pitch (but long, like Matt said).
May 29, 2001
Forgot to mention, while starting up the awesome 2nd pitch we heard a huge CRACK and looked across the canyon at Redgarden and saw 2 HUGE chunks of rock falling thru the air from somewhere around Yellow Spur area...a couple more CRACKS and it was over...SCARY...it was around 6pm, and if it was a weekend someone or a few folks would have died for sure. I don't know if it was precipitated by anything (a climber) or if it was intentional (highly doubt this). Anyone else know anything about this or if it affected any climbs on Redgarden west????
Jan 1, 2001
This is an atypical crack pitch for Eldo. A parallel hand crack with nothing for the feet except to jam the crack. This is a burly and sustained 40ft. of 5.8 jamming. A 2.5 Friend is the perfect size for this crack.
Jan 1, 2001
- Whiskey Gala
- Wired
I agree that this climb warrants a solid R rating, and I wouldn't want to put a 5.9 leader on the sharp end of this one. This is one of those pitches where you can place the gear, but there is no way of telling how good it really is without falling on it. While you have great gear for the first little crux of pulling on to the slab, until you reach the good flake at the end of the traverse, you are relying completely on tiny RPs behind the very thin, outside edge of the crack. Falling could very likely end you back up on the ledge messing you up pretty good.... Also, woe to those without a 6'6" wingspan. I'm about 6' and had to do an exciting high step on a small edge to slam that #2 home in the flake at the end. All that being said, this was a great little route! 3 star climbing but just too short!
Apr 1, 2015
This is a dangerous climb. I'm 6'1'' an could barely reach over to the flake to place the number two before doing the very committing and thin crux. A shorter person probably wouldn't be able to protect the crux making this climb very serious or X rated. I thought I'd be able to get a nut in the crack, but the crack was just too thin. Any placement would have been more for mental benefit and probably wouldn't have protected a fall. This would be a very nice toprope however.
Jul 6, 2007
This is a great climb in practicing with RPs, HB's offsets and small wires placements. Place a lot because if you fall swinging in the corner or decking is very likely. A [reasonable] lead for a solid 5.9 leader. Chris W.
Dec 5, 2005
I concur with the "s" rating here, the pro is rather difficult to place and it's small. I used two #2 and two #3 RPs to protect fairly sustained moves, plus the gear mentioned above. The RPs might hold with Screamers, but better not to fall on the first half as that ledge is never too far below.Fun climb, maybe a bit harder than 9+, but probably not a good route for a 5.9 or 10- leader.
May 10, 2004
For leading, I'd suggest 1 ~red Alien sized, a #2 Camalot for the end, and then a few nuts/RPs no bigger than #4 stopper. We TR'ed in and fiddled with pro for a bit, everything was a little questionable.
Jul 4, 2003
- X-Wing
- Young, Blonde, and Easy
The position of the first bolt is poor. Onsight, you're forced with a mental dilemma of either clipping the bolt or sending the crux as you can't have both unless you're very strong. The bolt should be a foot lower and left. Great climbing with some cool movement and good mental edge.
Aug 26, 2013
This is a badass climb! It protects quite well once you make it past the initial entry moves and get a few good RPs placed. The initial climbing to the first pin is easy. Before clipping the first pin, I plugged a #0.75 Camalot deep into the hollow flake on the right. You can either backclean the .75 or not, depending on your faith in the flake's strength. I would also recommend putting a screamer on that first pin if you have one. From here, make one mid-5.10 move past the 1st pin (mental crux). At this point, you have pretty good feet and are able to plug in 2 good RPs from the same stance. The climbing is PG from here on! Clip a few pins, place some RPs, get stoked when you reach two new, fatty bolts. At the top, clip one more pin, place a nut and/or black Alien, and you're finished. A heady route for sure, but one I highly recommend if you like Eldo weirdness and are good at placing small gear. The actual climbing felt only 10d/11a-ish to me. Also, thanks to the person that put those new bolts in!
Aug 11, 2013
- Your Basic Lieback
Lots of loose rock on the direct start. The sweet hand crack make it worth doing even if the rest of the pitch is quite junky.
Oct 13, 2015
If you go west from the belay down the short ramp towards the tree, there is a very short 4th class downclimb that brings you back to the the ledge you started on. This decent does not involve any traversing on rotten rock and no rappels.
Apr 12, 2014
The direct start is absolutely the way to go. It's a fun little 5.4 flake/5.6 hand crack that takes you right up to the start (rather than walking down the loose, exposed Star Wars ledge), and when you rap off your pack is right there. This solves all of the problems mentioned in the route description!
Sep 18, 2011
Great climb but this should be done instead as a two-3 pitch climb from the ground up. Start on the ground below the route and scramble up 4th class terraign then climb a crack to gain the ledge 5.5 at most. Then climb the YBL crack. Finish with Dihedral. If you do walk around on the ledge be very careful of rockfall. Everything here is loose and other routes are below you. On Tracer someone with a dog (don't bring dogs up here!) kicked off a bunch of loose rock that nearly clocked us. Dogs don't call out their rockfall.
May 6, 2008
While the short crux section was nice, be aware of the loose talus on every ledge. WEAR A HELMET!!! I was up on YBL and the three climbs above it on the 4th, and it was a pleasant afternoon. Until we started packing up our stuff at the base to leave when we heard rock fall, I started to run but got hit by a baseball-size rock. The rock fall was natural from what we could see. There is a lot of loose rock in this area. When we pulled our rope a computer-sized rock came flying off the face. So be careful when walking under the face, and when on it. I got lucky, 9 staples in the back of my head, other people climbing on this wall have had worse luck.
Jul 6, 2007
Absolutely the best lieback for the grade I've found. This route (in my opinion) is the second best 6 at Eldo, right behind the final pitch of Icarus. If you are comfy then keep a number 2 and a number 3 BD C4 and keep on going and combine with Dihedral above. Well worth the hike and Star Wars is right next to it.
Apr 20, 2007
The large block mentioned above by Scott Edlin has been removed.
Jul 27, 2006
The low start from the ground has a lot of lichen and is slippery and scary right off the ground when wet. It would probably be more secure when dry. There is a fixed pink tricam in the short crack above the two-trees-ledge. This crack is fun, but on top is a 3' diameter 8" thick block VERY precariously perched and holding back a flood of scree. Getting out of the crack without knocking anything down was fairly horrifying. Then there is still a 10' or so traverse right (with even more loose rock) to get to the YBL start. As much as I imagine the scramble to the traditional start must suck, it's probably safer than climbing from the ground. YBL itself is a blast - steep with good jams and rests. There aren't really any cheater face holds which makes it look harder than it is. If you are continuing up "Dihedral" (5.7 - recommended), continue up past the ledge on the left side of the loose red blocks (up a splitter low angle crack on the right side of a slab), then step right and up to the base of the "Dihedral" corner. A solid gear anchor can be built here at a good ledge with good visibilty of the next pitch.
May 7, 2006
Fun! It's easy to make an anchor at the top of the crack with a couple of hand-size cams. The best way to descend is to bring all of your gear from the ledge (i.e. backpack, guidebook, etc.) and then make an easy (4th class / 5.0 ) 10 foot traverse to the left and rappel off of two bolts. I say bring all of your gear since the rappel will take you to the base of the peanuts wall - that way you don't have to hike back up to get your stuff from the ledge. Just be sure to belay for the short traverse - even though it's easy a fall would be bad. The rappel is 100 feet long so be sure you have a 60 M. rope.
Apr 23, 2005
Short, yes, but terrific alone or in combo-route. Glad to see others have enjoyed this one. Can anyone be more descriptive about the P2 variations. I also climbed 2 variations between this and Star Wars P1 and P2. Can anyone comment?
Jun 12, 2004
The belay isn't that bad. The 4th class scramble up to the ledge is short and the ledge is descent in size. This has been my favorite 5.6 lead in the park so far. Although short in legnth, it is sustained and worth doing. Too bad it wasn't a little longer.
May 7, 2004
Great little line! From the top of YBL, strike out right and give Forbidden Planet a go, or continue on up through the .7 or .9 exit moves above and set a top-rope for it. There are 2 eyebolt anchors at the top. It makes for a great outing. By the way--what's the chimney/crack angling up and left from the lower ledge on YBL? 'Looks reasonable. (.9?) Finishing the pitch, I realized that (variation?) places you right below the rap anchors.
Jul 2, 2003
I agree, fun pitch! As with most liebacks, it can be strenuous to place gear. Clever leaders, however, will not entirely lieback this crack. Look for footholds for stemming, and as it is hand sized you can also hand jam it. There are many ways to climb this short pitch.
Jun 16, 2003
This is a great climb, of high quality. An Eldo rarity at this grade. To add to the climb, start on the ground. There is a nice, big flake just slightly downhill from the start of this climb. Climb the flake, sling the tree, and scamper to the ledge with the two dead trees (see the picture on page 136 of Rossiter's new guide). You will be uphill from the two trees he shows crossed at the bottom of his sketch.Climb one more short crack section, and this will deposit you near the base of Your Basic Lieback. This makes for a nice long pitch of 5.6 climbing. Use some long slings at the bottom to cut down on rope drag. Continue to the top by climbing Dihedral at 5.7. Use the rap station at the top of Forbidden Planet. Now that you are warmed up, go climb Star Wars!
May 31, 2003
- Upper Peanuts
- Ace Of Spades
- Advanced Rockcraft
I lead this route on that bashie, many years ago, and remember thinking, don't fall on that thing.
Aug 10, 2016
That rusty, fixed wire popped on me yesterday! I was top roping this from the Gravity's Angel anchor, slipped and fell, and the wire itself broke off the nut! This thing is hard!
Aug 17, 2015
The fixed wire is rusty, and if this broke, you would be bummed. No other options.
May 23, 2013
I love this route. It is what Eldo is all about. I led this when it had that tiny, nail-sized bolt. I had worked it on rope solo, and when I finally got a partner up there, I looked like a bad ass. The truth is, this route handed me my ass for a while. It felt like Street Car Named Desire in Joshua Tree to me. I'm psyched the bolt's been replaced. The corner's crux is ruthless. It is very hard for 12b. The dangerous part is pulling out of the upper 5.10 corner.
Sep 6, 2011
S- Thanks for making the effort to upgrade the hardware.
Aug 6, 2010
The single bolt at the crux has been replaced with a 5-piece Rawl 3/8" bolt. Thanks to ACE for the necessary hardware and tools. The pin below, bashie (!?!) above, and pin higher are all still in place. A yellow Alien can back up the higher pin, and a pretty darn good #5 BD Micro Stopper (Swedge) protects the upper 5.10 runout.
May 27, 2010
Since it is all fixed, why not upgrade the whole route?
Feb 28, 2002
- Cardinal Richelieu
This climb reminds me of everything I love about climbing...since it boasts absolutely none of it! That it was bestowed a star in the guidebook is purely mind-boggling. Perhaps the most positive thing about it is its random name, which inspirited me to embark on a webquest for its namesake. lucidcafe.com/library/95sep… The Cardinal is quoted as saying "If you give me six lines written by the most honest man, I will find something in them to hang him." We must assume that Rossiter is an honest man...with an imperfect memory of his climbing experience on Cardinal Richelieu. BUT...The first 25 feet of this climb is actually really fun! Bummer.
Jul 18, 2007
My partner and I decided that "Cardinal Douchebag" might be a more appropriate name for this route when we did it sometime in the mid to early 90's. It's right up there with "Voodoo" (if you like doo-doo, do do Voodoo...") for starred routes that no one should go near...
Jan 14, 2004
This route was fun but DIRTY definitely not deadly and not very serious but eye opening and enthralling...ahh that silly Cardinal.
Jul 10, 2003
I was Tony's partner on this route. I would like to agree with, support, and reinforce what he said. You don't want to do this route! Vertical lichenous kitty litter, climbed with fingers spread wide to spread the load. Tony coined the term "cragmire" to describe this climb. It was so bad that rather than pitching it out into the two guidebook pitches, Tony ran it to the top to get a safe belay. While seconding, I found that the rope had flipped around a flake requiring me to aid some moves under the "cat claw" flake. I placed a cam blind, hauled on the 'biner and stuck a hand jam in the same crack as the cam. The combined outward pressure of the cam and the jam moved the block.
Jan 11, 2002
- Cruise, The
At this point in time, staying on the face at the top requires serious bushwhacking; I wish I'd read the description here about moving left to the dihedral. The bolt now looks new and inspires much confidence. Gear before it is hard to find, however.
Jul 26, 2016
Another party was starting Heavy Weather, so we went up to do this and the chimney/OW corner. Worth doing once, but I wouldn't make a special effort to do this climb otherwise. A serious lead with marginal pro getting to the bolt, so not recommended if you aren't solid at 5.9 or 5.9+. Bolt/hanger is currently rusted/questionable.
Jul 1, 2015
Did it today, bit bushy at the top but not a big problem. Wouldn't like to take the fall but you can stop and gather yourself for the moves beyond the bolt.
Jul 16, 2009
I did this in '02 and got scratched up by the bushes after the crux. I looked at it today, and there are some very big, healthy bushes there now. Anyone done it lately? Looks like it'd be hard to get through....
May 18, 2009
We were going to try this one, but did the start and said "no way, Jose", ended up doing Upstairs Dihedral instead, which is much more direct to the anchors. Maybe not R or S rated, but it sure looks like a bad fall if you mess up.
Jun 27, 2005
The rock you place gear in before the bolt is a little junky. I was hoping for a fat cam placement before the slab, but all I got was a #2 nut and a #2 RP. Luckly, you can step to the right a place gear w/ a 4ft runner to protect the moves to the bolt. A tricky #2 Camalot placement can be had after the crux, before you start the bushwack to the anchors. This climb would be 2 stars, but bushes and pine needles at the top subtracts a star.
Jun 20, 2005
A stiffy at 5.9 but mostly psychological. A locking biner at the bolt is reassuring.
Mar 7, 2002
- Downstairs
I gave this route a 5.7 rating, because I actually climbed the start of Heavy Weather and bypassed the 5.9 dihedral by going right into the squeeze section formed by the flake. I would not recommend doing this variation as the rope drag was terrible. I would, however, give the beginning of Heavy Weather 2.5 stars!
Jul 1, 2013
- Gravity's Angel
I don't know what I was missing, and maybe I'm just way outta shape, but this thing was chockful of scary cruxing! The first-second bolt area is a dangerous fall, although not that hard. Getting to the third is a far, hard traverse with a big, swingy fall potential, and the 4th to 5th bolt was WAY scary for me! Great fun movement when you didn't think you were about to die!
Aug 17, 2015
I'll add some beta since no one has commented for a while.... I found this climb to be fantastic! Certainly better than the neighboring "Home Free". I was able to get some solid gear between the 1st and 2nd bolt by climbing up and left from the 1st bolt and into some licheny rock where I got a purple Mastercam and red c3 (both had long slings on them). It seemed a bit contrived, but it was better than going straight up to the 2nd bolt and risking a serious groundfall, especially because some of the rock just below the 2nd bolt is suspect. After the 2nd bolt it was a great, technical, footwork intensive climb!
Apr 21, 2014
Great route! All cruxes are well protected. The rock is amazing. An Eldo classic. A good place to spend on a hot summer morning. I don't remember it being spicy, but I've only lead it a few times and we were using it for a warm up.
Sep 6, 2011
In regards to Stefan's comments on the rebolting of this route: In reading his description, it appears that some non-stainless hardware (3" x 3/8" Rawl 5-piece bolts are plated and not stainless) was used. I hope I am mistaken, but if not, there are several organizations which promote rebolting (ASCA, ARI, etc.) which provide stainless hardware free of charge. It doesn't make sense to me in light of all the time and trouble to do rebolting to use non-stainless hardware. Also, if I am not mistaken, don't the rebolting guidelines for Eldorado State Park require that stainless hardware be used?
May 27, 2010
All of the bolts on Gravity's Angel have now been upgraded to either 5-piece Rawl 3/8" x 3" or Fixe stainless. Thanks to ACE (Action Committee for Eldorado) for the tools and hardware.
May 27, 2010
Very cool face climbing with 2 cruxy sections. I got a pretty good small stopper and a red C3 before the second bolt to help ease the ground fall potential.
Oct 18, 2009
A great pitch, but it sure could use an upgrade regarding the fixed protection. I also don't think that there is any good gear between the first and second bolt; the rock quality is questionable for all of the small options and the old #2 cam slot is definitely broken and no longer useful. I'm wondering if something else broke since it seems to be a lot harder than I remember passing the second bolt?
Sep 3, 2009
This route, Forbidden Planet, and Blows against the Empire make for a great bunch of 5.11 climbing that are easy to get to, well protected, and high quality. We climbed this one Sunday, and I did not see any rust on the bolts, however; the lichen this year does seem abundant. I would recommend that subsequent parties bring a brush.
Jul 22, 2009
There didn't appear to be any gear between the 1st and 2nd bolt... tread carefully as you could hit the deck before clipping #2. Otherwise, brilliant slab climbing.
Nov 3, 2008
What an excellent and sustained route, one of the best on Peanuts in my opinion! A Black Alien and/or small offset Aliens can be used to protect the runout between the 1st and 2nd bolt, and it would be a 5.9 s or vs section without gear there. After the 2nd bolt, no more gear is needed but draws, and there are some rather spicy but safe runouts between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and after the 5th bolt. Lots of fun, thin, and footy climbing throughout!
May 29, 2005
This is truly a great route - although there are many to choose from it stands out as solid for the grade and aesthics of the movement. There are several distint cruxes that require solid foot, hand, body, and head work...and not too much chalk to show the possiblitiles. Awesome! I see that these bolts are ~16-17 years old and are looking fairly rusted. Realizing that the are 3/8" and that this may sound silly - Does anyone have any idea if they are still relatively safe? or the expected life on them?
Jul 26, 2003
I don't think the danger from the Heavy Weather death blocks applies.... the fall line for those blocks is well to the left of this route.
Jul 22, 2003
There's a DANGER: LOOSE BLOCKS warning on "Heavy Weather" that probably applies to this climb as well. May want to check it out...
Jun 22, 2003
Your welcome Leo, ...most appreciation to Erik J. who had the vision.--aa
Aug 28, 2002
The book beta says that a 2" cam can be placed between the first and second bolts. No Longer True. There is no placement there, but there is plenty of broken rock as of ??? I was there on Saturday, 6/14/02 and the rock was on the ground. I hope that nobody was injured. As an end result, the climb is actually slightly easier in that spot and does not require a placement. Even most 5.10 leaders will feel comfortable getting to the second bolt, but if you are not a 5.11 leader , you probably don't want to be on lead on this anyway...No real bad fall potential, but you could skin yourself up pretty badly. I am 5'10" and felt that the right-hand traverse around the 2nd-3rd clip was somewhat reachy, but more for the feet than hands. The crux upper part between Bolts 4-5 is quite thin and can be solved different ways, with or without crosses. From the 5th bolt to the top is some distance, but is safe if going left and will feel like easy buckets. It is pretty safe overall.
Jun 16, 2002
This is an awesome pitch, but it doesn't feel like a BC or CC clip-up. Pretty sustained steep slab climbing with healthy runs between the bolts for a 5.11b leader. Thin moves right off the deck. #1 1/2 F & wire useful before the 1st bolt. The R traverse high above the 2nd bolt feels out there with little for the hands -_ long reach/lean R. After the 3rd bolt there is balancey footwork with 2 foot crosses. Move L after the 5th bolt. Another diamond in the rough! Great vision. Thanks [Andy] and Eric.
Apr 1, 2002
- Heavy Weather
There is now a rap line installed starting maybe 10ft up and right of the top out of this route. It is described under the main page of Upper Peanuts: mountainproject.com/v/upper… Thanks to rangers (for the suggestion), Eldo ACE (for $), and volunteers (for the work).
Jun 11, 2017
Some of this is pretty good...but's it chunked out and a little contrived, though the good sequences are quite good. That first pitch is not 5.9 for any single moment.
Mar 1, 2017
Dat crux doe. Well-protected with great views. What else can a girl ask for?
Jun 3, 2016
Found a small, black Mountain Hardware bag with food and sunscreen hanging on a branch at the base of Heavy Weather. Send me a message if this is yours, and we'll figure out how to get it back to you.
Jul 20, 2015
This is a fun route with solid pro. I can only give it 2 stars because of how hard it is to not launch all the broken scree on every belay ledge. If the descent looks sketchy, you have not gone far enough along the ridge line. I didn't :(
Jun 20, 2015
Whoa, what a hidden gem. The first two pitches challenge you in such an interesting variety of ways. Sequence intensive finger-cracks and slabs are the name of the game. On P2, when the crack "flip flops" you've got to pull just the most delicate and challenging 5.8 move I've ever done. It's definitely a 5.8 once you commit, but before you cast off to the left side of the slab, you're totally moving by faith and friction. Then on pitch 3, a nice little Colorado hail storm came in. At first, I was pretty sketched and pissed, then I remembered that the route is called "Heavy Weather", and I couldn't help but laugh and laugh. Suddenly the hail didn't seem all that bad.
Jul 21, 2014
Post-flood cleanup: The loose blocks on P2 and atop P3 are now gone. So is the dead tree below P4.
Sep 22, 2013
Very good (but not great) route - definitely worth doing. If the route were cleaner and had more sustained climbing, it would get 3 stars. That being said, each pitch has bits of really good climbing. It protects well - the crux moves can be sewed up. Reports of "death blocks" are massively exaggerated. I saw only one precarious flake, and if it were to go, it would fall to the left of this route. You can link pitches (I linked 3 & 4), but the climbing is more enjoyable if you do it in 4 per the guidebook.
Jul 10, 2013
This route is well protected and is a great outing. Well worth it if Lower Peanuts is crowded. It also holds shade for most of the morning, so it's a good option on hot summer days. I thought the P1 crux was harder than the P2 crux, personally...very thin tips, quite balancy, and there's very little for feet, but it's short. I got a #4 and #5 BD micro stopper in at the P1 crux and they are bomber. We did it comfortably in 3 pitches linking 3-4.
Jul 15, 2012
This route is awesome. I think I climbed it in '04 or '05, and a crazy rain/electical storm hit us hard while my buddy was following P2. With little communication and no upward movement, I eventually lowered him until I saw him running out on talus below to signal me. I then untied and solo'd out somewhere down the ledge with lightning and thunder crushing in on my world. The next morning we returned early to finish route and retrieve me gear. Heavy Weather couldn't be a better name for this beauty.
Sep 6, 2011
Congratulations to Korde Broker on his 1st traditional lead on pitch 1 of this route...Hella nice Bro!!!
Jul 22, 2009
Might be a favorite to some since it is moderate, in the shade, has great views, has brilliant lichen, and a pleasant break from brutal heat waves.
Jun 25, 2009
A decent climb. I was a bit disappointed. I guess I had big expectations based on above comments and a friend that said it was one of his favorites. Very short section of quality and business. The rest of the climbing was ok.
Jun 20, 2009
Climbed today with Ryan Brough. Fun! if a little segmented. Ryan led p. 1, then we top roped Gravity's Angel, also very cool. Ryan led crux pitch 2. I led and linked 3 & 4, the wide crack and blocky finish. Fun all the way. I'd say p.1 has a couple slabby 5.9 moves on thin but good pro, and eases quickly. Pitch 2 has a few 9 moves also, that continue at 8+ for a bit. The mental crux is the first 9 move pulling around the dihedral flip in a blind lieback and not being sure what you'll see/grab around the edge. The p. 3 wide crack felt easier than 5.8. It may not even be 5.7, compared, for example, to the 5.6 second pitch of Bastille Crack. It's full of awesome hand jams except a short wide move at the top, and there are ramps and edges for feet all the way. I didn't do a single foot jam. The blocky top to a short finger crack was interesting and probably 5.8. The descent kept things interesting. We followed corners and bushes up and right* toward Peanut's summit, came to a notch, and wound our way down 3rd and 4th class rock, passing several loose piles. Then we crossed a crumbly red ledge, and took it left* (south, really, same direction as "right" above, but that was when we were climbers facing in, and now we're descenders facing out) toward the hill side. Great morning.
May 30, 2009
A great climb with lots of fun variety and superb views. I actually thought that pitch 3 was overall the most challenging, maybe not the hardest moves but the most sustained nature and steep. You will want to have your number 4 cam for the widest slot and a number 3 is very comforting for the final exit. To get off we scrambled s.w. along 3rd class rock and shrubbery until we came to an obvious notch with a rough trail starting down west to woods. This trail continues west for a bit and then starts traversing back north east to your start improving the closer to get to the base. Only takes about 10- 15 minutes to walk back this way. Have fun. Makes a great combo with others classics up there like Star Wars.
Jun 9, 2008
Do this climb in 2 pitches. Get ready for a descent that will take as long as the climb, worth it though.
Aug 22, 2007
P1 can easily be combined with Upstairs Dihedral by going straight up instead of left after the P1 crux. We (+J. Blumberg) did this but not really by intention. No matter, Upstairs is really a sweet old-school dihedral with some surprisingly kind OW. Peanuts Wall has choss everywhere--be VERY careful about how you move about at belays, and anything that looks even remotely doubtful should be tested before pulling hard.
Oct 2, 2006
This is a very good route. I felt P1 is good but over graded a bit. Felt more like (8+) max to me. Yet my partner, thought it felt bouldery and harder than (9), and he climbs harder than me, so go figure. Good stances for placing gear...used a black alien and a #4 BD stopper for the business in the dihedral. P2 may be the crux, and it felt (9) to me, but the finger to hand jams are bomber, on good rock with great pro, made it feel very secure. Took a blue alien at the start of the crux and orange TCU a few feet higher. P3 sucked the wide stuff right off my rack, although there are placements for smaller cams under 1" in the first half of the pitch. Hand/fist jams and good stemming edges all the way up this fun pitch. Suggest bringing doubles of #3 cam and a #4 cam for the last 10'. Last pitch traverses way left, or I would have linked the last two, but [it's] a good finish. Good rock quality , position, and pro the whole way, I would do this route again for sure.
Jul 31, 2005
We did pitch one, then continued up and right on chossy terrain to the big tree with the horizontal section, easy fifth class all in one lead. This put us at the base of Sunrider and the Upstairs Dihedral. After the dihedral(9), we got to toprope Sunrider, which feels really exposed for a toprope. Very cool link up which let another party do Heavy Weather while we were on our upper pitches.
Jun 27, 2005
I would agree with Shane. This is an excellent route. Fun and varied with good positioning. Pitch 2 is the money pitch, but all the pitches were enjoyable. Watch for loose rocks on the ledges. Have at it - great line.
Jul 6, 2004
Stellar route. Every pitch is fun with good pro. Pitch one takes small stoppers(Black Diamond #3 and #4) to protect the crux. Pitch two is the mack daddy, though. Awesome view at the top of pitch two. Pitch three is a fun hand jam. Pitch four is a funky, little crack that goes to the edge near the top.
Jul 5, 2004
For the not-so-light climber (of the non-sport sized) like me, you don't need to rely upon RPs. I've always used BD wireds for P1. Small Aliens are useful for the P2 belay. Not to push you to climb this route, but some of those blocks have been shifting for a few years. When in doubt, don't touch those loose blocks, climb to the top of Sunrider/The Cruise, or downclimb. A fun, short, pretty, 4-pitch climb that is generally in the shade.
Aug 20, 2003
Cool climb. Though somewhat disjointed, this route links up some great rock. Bring micro-nuts or RP's for the P1 crux and small to med. cams (or nuts) for the P2 crux. The belay before P3 is the best view in the canyon. You can see the west side of the Bastille, Wind Tower, Whales Tail, entire Redgarden Wall and entire West Ridge and Rincon. As for the death block, definitely avoid it. It looks like a giant surf board ready to slide. Many other large blocks on the same ledge. Just pay attention to where you build your anchor and tread lightly. For the decent, we contoured south, then west around the wall and ended up at the base.
Aug 20, 2003
If you are solid at the grade, you can probably leave the big cams at home. I didn't need to place the #3.5 Friend, and a small runout at the top of the third pitch will let you leave the #4 Friend at home. An extra hand size cam and medium hexes do come in handy, though. A must do on those hot sunny days. There are nice ledges for belays and good views of the rest of Eldo.
Aug 11, 2003
Hey Myke, Sorry to disuade you from doing the route unnecessarily. Also glad the blocks are stable enough to kick. When I was up there, they did slide, not just wobble (and without kicking or stepping on). I thought it was worth being adamant about, since it seemed pretty dangerous. My two partners thought so too, so I posted.Anyone who climbs in Eldo knows there is loose rock everywhere, "just don't pull on it" usually suffices. This situation seemed different; at the time, to me.Great route; based on your assessment, I'll probably be on it again soon. BTW-S. Kimball's Chicken Little comment wasn't what convinced me.
Aug 1, 2003
CHICKEN LITTLE;"THE SKY IS FALLING, THE SKY IS FALLING..."Miss this route and ya miss one of the best 5.9's in Eldo.The last pitch ie; site of DEATH BLOCKS is a bit of a pile anyway, and is easily avoided .
Jul 31, 2003
The above comment on the "death blocks" deterred me from climbing this route.... until today. After seeing them, I do not believe the dire words accurately projects the situation. I believe Mark is referring to a horizontal 5'x5' flake pushing edgewise on a veritcally aligned 5' x 5' flake by the belay below the summit pitch. Indeed the horizontal one is loose - stepping on it causes wobbling. If it did go and hit someone, they would not survive. Disclaimer: Everything I write below is completely suspect. Do not trust me. They are my opinions, please do not trust them. Only read the below if you've read the disclaimer on the site (bottom of every page). I am not responsible for the safety of the route or your safety. However... they are on the ramp below the last pitch of the climb and I believe they can easily be avoided to the left or right, without climber or rope touching them (we did, being the curious sort). Secondly, they clearly appear precarious, and any climber with proper experience and judgement should identify them as potentially loose, as they should view any block placed precariously on a ledge high above the ground in Eldorado Springs. Yarding on them is not advised. Third, despite that statement, I did not find them waiting to go if someone "breathed" on them. We pulled, hit, and finally kicked (all in the name of science, boys and girls) the blocks with no loss of life occuring. I just wanted to mention this, since I was dissuaded from climbing the route for a month, but after climbing it and seeing the flakes, I felt the risk of rock-fall on this route from these flakes was no greater than other places in Eldorado Canyon (top of P2 of over the hill comes to mind), and I was glad I enjoyed this fun route.
Jul 22, 2003
WARNING, DEATH BLOCKS/FLAKES! At pitch3/pitch 4 belay, the rock is highly unstable. Please do not do this route right now. Yesterday, a flake big enough to kill a couple climbers shifted twice while we were near it, VERY SCARY.This should be trundled with the area cordoned off. The big snows of this spring must have moved stuff around. I have done the route several times in the past and it has changed. Right now it (and the blocks around it) are just waiting for someone to breathe on it. Strongly consider also avoiding routes directly downhill such as Gravity's Angel.
Jun 5, 2003
Bring the small nuts (or slider nuts or Lowe-balls) to protect the p1 crux.
Apr 15, 2003
This is a great climb. Lots of varied climbing. The crux on the first pitch is thin and smeary, but not steep. The second pitch is very interesting with some weird dihedral stuff, and a great, angling finger crack that you can't really get your feet in. The third pitch is a sweet fist crack with some great, full-on arm jams. And the last pitch is short but pretty cool. I thought P2 was the crux of the climb. It is also pretty sustained once you get around the weird dihedral craziness. Rossiter calls both upper pitches 8+ but they felt more like 8 to me. Easier than the crux of Chianti for instance. 5.9 seemed pretty close for both P1 and P2. We walked off the the west. This entailed 4th class downclimbing. Wasn't that bad, but it wasn't great either. You could probably descend to the east through the trees, until you get to the saddle between upper and lower peanuts.
Apr 15, 2003
This is a very enjoyable route that will challenge you in a variety of ways. Pitches 1-3 can easily be combined into one long lead without rope drag as can pitches 4 and 5. I did the route today in two pitches with a 60m rope and would suggest doing it this way but be careful on the last pitch, you will either get drag or have to make a couple tricky moves with ledge fall potential. The walk off sort of sucked but the variety of climbing, views and exposure were well worth it.......
Jun 23, 2002
- Martyr's Arena
Wow, man, well done.
Aug 28, 2012
Nice job, Joe. Way to make a dream come true. "Some micro nuts if you're into illusions", can I dislike that comment.
Aug 20, 2012
- Sunrider
Due to being a total wimp, I was quite happy to place a couple of pieces between the first two bolts to eliminate the possibility of a nasty ledge fall prior to clipping the second bolt. A small nut and a small TCU can be placed before the horizontal and hand-sized gear can be placed in the horizontal.
Jun 23, 2014
The Sunrider bolts that were removed for the recent upgrade were tested at the CSU lab and all of them sheared at about 3800 lbs. This was a pretty good test result considering the appearance of the bolts and that they had been extracted with the Greenlee. More information on the test results will be available soon.
Apr 16, 2014
Fun TR after doing heavy weather-upstairs dihedral. Just glad to make it to the anchors.
Jun 18, 2005
This would be a three star climb if it weren't so easy to climb the left side of the upper section of arete.It seems as if the upper 2 bolts (4th and 5th) were placed so as to force you to climb the right side of the arete, though the natural line of holds is on the left side.I took the left side of the arete in this section, left hand on positive crimps and right hand on the arete.The 4th bolt is in a bad location for this, and you are looking at a nasty swinging fall if you blow it. After climbing the route, I TR'd it by staying on the right side of the arete from the 4th bolt on, and thought it was pretty-hard 11+ with some cruxy moves well above the bolt.But following the easiest path on the left side of the arete for the entire climb, I thought it was similar in difficulty to 11b/c Eldo face routes with some 5.10 spice.
Apr 28, 2004
I disagree: the bolting is fine, meaning you won't hit anything big if you fall in the easy-5.10 section towards the top. it's only really 1-2 slab-smear moves, not too far above the bolt, until you hit the big holds in the broken band, after which it's easy. unless you went to the left of the arete, about which I can't say anything. it's a little spicy, is all.
Oct 9, 2003
Rossiter says to bring a #5 RP to place after the first bolt. You can also place a medium cam to back up the second bolt, which is a ways up there. I thought this climb was easy for Eldo 11d, but I am 6'4" and I was on top rope. Next time, I will have to lead it.
Aug 9, 2003
The approach scramble described by Rossiter was not that fun. The band you traverse on is pretty shattered and loose. But then, I'm I complete chicken. The approach via Heavy Weather looks better (in retrospect).
Jun 18, 2003
Nice line! Everything is fairly simple except for two or three 5.11 moves around the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A little height may help. I certainly had to reach a bit here.
May 31, 2002
I can think of many many better 5.11 pitches in Eldorado. Still a nice pitch though.
Feb 26, 2002
Great route, but not 11d. 11b perhaps.
Feb 25, 2002
Nice addition. I'd almost go with three stars for Sunrider given the excellent stone, superb position, and arch-typical, thoughtful Rossiter pro. Is there a better single pitch 5.11 in Eldo? The line loses very little by switching onto the right face about half way up, but it would have a kick to remain entirely on the arete. We tried to top-rope the arete at the transition point and it just did not work for us. Sunrider is a terrific route any way you look at it.
Feb 25, 2002
- Through and Through
- Twilight
- Twilight Variation
- Upstairs
We found this pitch delightful, having missed the correct way to finish Heavy Weather. 5.8 sounds about right.
Aug 8, 2016
This is Upstairs, FA Larry Dalke and Bill Chase, 1965. According to Jim Erickson in Rocky Heights 1980: "Upstairs 5.6. This wanders up the right margin of the upper wall (i.e. Upper Peanuts), into a prominent dihedral." It is the most-obvious and cleanest line on the entire formation, and considering the compressed ratings of the day, it is easy to conclude this is Dalke's route.
Aug 12, 2007
The Rossiter book gives an FA date of 1980, and that it might be possible that it is the upper pitch of 'Upstairs 5.6, 1965', but that the rating of 5.6 is far off the mark. I think that it probably is the upper pitch of 'Upstairs' and was probably first done in 1965, or at least some time well before 1980. My basis for this is: a) a prominent dihedral like this wouldn't have been passed up until 1980, b) the rating of 5.6 seems pretty accurate. It definitely isn't 5.9. Fun, albeit short, pitch.
Apr 23, 2007
Very short. The tree in the pictures makes the route look longer than it is. Still fun, though. There are only two short sections of true off-width, the rest of the way the crack has good holds inside, or it's hand/fist sized jamming.
Jul 1, 2005
If you do this on the same day as the stiffie, The Cruise, you'd find this is the far softer of the two. It was perhaps once rated 5.6.
Jul 16, 2002
Terrific route. Here's an alternative descent: rap back to the start on the Sunrider anchors (bring webbing). Then walk down to the ramp and rap down the gully from the tree with the horizontal trunk section. 60m rope.Check out the picture in Rossiter's guide of this tree. The webbing and rap ring were put on June 2, 2002. The rap will leave you 10 feet above the ground and 15 feet from the start of Heavy Weather. Easy mini downclimb.
Jun 3, 2002
- Petit Bastille
- Bricklayer's Spite
AS luck would have it, I just did Bricklayer's Spite last Sunday night, on a lark. Problem is I did a completely different route than described here. I read the Rossiter description as having started from the roadcut, maybe 5-6 meters South of where the wall runs uphill. I followed a crack & right facing dihedral up to where I tended right into a slot/chimney and went through the right hand arete burried in it to the top. The route was a bomb and would be a little sandbagged for 5.6. The available gear was also somewhat poor in sections.
Jun 25, 2004
- Eyes to See
- Plankton Stew
This is a fun route, but beware sketchy rock. There is currently a backpack-sized rock below the bulge, ready to fall left into the belay zone. There are several hollow blocks and flakes beyond the bulge, so tread lightly.
May 5, 2017
Bob and I climbed Plankton Stew, 5.8+, over the roof. The roof is harder than what it looks on the ground, and he placed good pro all the way up. There really wasn't an issue about loose rock. It was hot hot hot out on Sunday, and it was a nice little climb in the shade. Once the sun hit it, we headed for the boulders. Fun climb!
Jul 26, 2011
- Scimitar
- Sourpuss
- Two-Tone Dihedral
It's almost 12 years after this route description was submitted to MP. The pro is no longer good. I placed four pieces (none in the roof crack, though I could have if I'd wanted to fiddle around and get pumped). All those placements were hard found, and at least two of them were marginal, in my eyes. I don't feel experienced enough to say what protection rating a route should get, but if this is PG-13, maybe I should take another look at sport climbing.
Apr 11, 2015
I did not think this was bad, but a new 5.8 leader might not like it very much. The difficult sections had good pro, but the pro on some of the easier sections was questionable. There is some loose rock on this, but if you test your holds, it is avoidable.
Sep 28, 2012
...I thought this was pretty bad. There is NOT good pro for the first third of the dihedral. A doubtful nut protects the first move off the ledge, but that move is not too hard. Then no gear at all for about 10'. Then some fair cams in a rotten horizontal on the left. A couple more moves to good gear. Coupled with that, most of the positive holds are on the red rock on the left wall and are of dubious quality. At the top I went right, avoiding more loose-looking rock, glad to get out of the red zone. I was self-belaying, so that may have contributed to the bad vibes. On TR, cleaning the pitch, I had a bit more fun.
Oct 19, 2004
- Physical Crag
- Bacon Bits
Indeed, 1x #4 C4 + 2x #5 C4s is the right rack. A #6 CAN be placed but is not critical. This climb is deceptively steep and much harder than it appears from below.
Jun 3, 2017
- Bacon and Ergs
This is an outrageous climb, a must-do for offwidth lovers! More than good OW technique, this seems to require a serious abs workout, and general tenacity and endurance. I didn't lead it, but the protection seems fine if you have some large cams, bigger than the #5 Camalot. Can now be rapped from two slung chockstones at the top... otherwise, an interesting 4th class descent.
Mar 21, 2005
I would have said the crux was getting off of the chockstone, with the move to it being hard, but not quite as hard. It will probably depend upon body size- with skinney people finding the lower part eisier and people with VERY long arms (we're talking LOOOONG here) finding the top less difficult.
Jul 9, 2004
- Crown Joules
- Dyne and Dash
- EarthQuark
- Ergonomics
- Fission Chips
- Ohm on the Range
Agreed with Ivan, the way we did it is not the way Rositer describes the route and skips the 10b/c crux described by Rositer in the Eldo book. However, the way I did it, cutting direct left from where the picture was taken is still 5.10 and as you turn the corner, is still S. Watch out. Ivan's line (different than mine) might have been the best, mounting the flake and then cutting left.
Jul 12, 2004
After re-reading Rossiter, I believe the way we climbed this (as described by Tony above) misses the 10b/c S crux. See the first photo below. Tony climbed to the flake above him in the photo and then went left around the arete. I followed by laybacking to the top of the flake and then going left (to retrieve gear), but continuing straight up would have been easy. I believe the route actually traverses right from below the flake along a ramp and then makes a crux (according to Rossiter) move onto the upper slab. From above I could see a nice-looking thin crack in the upper slab that is likely the top of the route.
Jul 11, 2004
- Pole Vault
- Watts For Dinner
- Watts Left Over
- Quartzite Crag
- Redgarden Wall
- Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
- Apprehension
- Arcane Saw
We think we did this route, but we didn't see any reasonable way to do the initial moves, so we stepped from the tree onto the face. After that it was about 5.7 skirting the ceiling on the right. This is an OK route as a 5.7 if you're looking for an end of day climb in this area.
Apr 3, 2010
- Bitter Route, The
This is a challenging lead at the grade, and worthwhile if you're looking for that kind of challenge. The initial moves required yarding off a suspect flake in the red band. Good gear after that leads to the small ceiling. There's a good cam at the lip, and you can get several marginal pieces in the two thin vertical cracks above that. The crux step up is pretty hard given the suspect gear, but it's over as soon as you stand up. More good gear can convince you to make one more hard move straight up, or you can move left to easier and dirtier ground.
Apr 3, 2010
- Breakfast Of Champions
Onsight this feels like .11a R. Gear seemed marginal, but holds appear when needed. We used the two bolt chain anchor on top of Captain Crunch which is to the right of the finish.
Jun 8, 2006
- Cabana Boy
- Candy-O
- Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana
I guess we thought it was maybe 10- the first time. Then we all promptly soloed it, with the rope still on the Mr. N. tree for the rap. Later, when I 3rd classed it again, I found that the real business was getting back down.
Sep 10, 2011
I have no idea where the 5.9 rating in the books come from. This is spankin' hard!
Jul 13, 2011
This is called Santa Ana in the new book. There is a nut placement on the left that would keep you from rolling down the trail, but probably not off the ground.... Crash pad might be better pro than gear.
Apr 28, 2010
Fun TR from Mr. Natural. I didn't see any possible gear placements.
May 8, 2009
"Captain 4Q" was apparently a comic and/or a character in a comic. Found only this on Google:"my list ...includes the forbidden fruit of EC Comics, Wonder Warthog, Captain 4Q, and other subversive intelligentsia."
Oct 24, 2004
Getting started seemed to be the crux, and felt a little hard for 5.9. A variation boulder problem start (just a few moves) is to pull onth the arete from underneith the left hand side of the base of the arete, essentially doing a big overhang move to gain the arete. This will probably feel like 5.10d. We called this boulder-problem start "Captain 4Z" at the time.
Feb 1, 2002
- Captain Crunch
Props to Joe Crotty for replacing some old, manky bolts on CC, on Sunday, 3/29/2015. Os are original hardware. Xs are new hardware.
Mar 31, 2015
This is the most condition dependent route I've been on in smeldo. Considerably easier than The Web. Ya gotta start on the ground after getting the first bolt clipped, none of that aiding bs....
Mar 20, 2012
Great winter climb (2 windows of sun and protected from the wind). Exciting/spicy runouts hence the "S" rating. More fun than The Web!
Feb 10, 2008
Great route, fun crux. 8a Good cold weather route, sun 12pm-1pm 2pm 3:30pm
Feb 4, 2008
I thought this was a pretty good boulder problem. Ok for a route needs to be longer. Fun either way.
May 8, 2007
To answer the question about where the route goes... I placed the "aid" bolt without actually knowing how the moves would work out. Eventually I started down to the right which is the standard way. I saw a couple of very strong lads a couple of years back who did it directly from the first bolt which looks real hard but saves a lot of distance.
May 23, 2002
Agreed, those sloper holds above the lip require good temperatures!
Apr 23, 2002
It matters only if it matters to you. The crux is indeed higher than the section you are concerned about. It is common practise to work this on TR, and on the redpoint have the first 2 pieces (a pin and a bolt, I think) clipped to start. P.S. get on this before it gets much hotter.
Apr 23, 2002
I am curious, does the line start directly below the gray bolt, or is it "allowed" to traverse in from the left following the aid bolt section? Both seemed tough, but obviously not the crux so I wondered if it matters to anyone?
Apr 22, 2002
Although the guidebook credits Charlie with this route, I'm afraid I have to take primary responsibility. Kyle Copeland did it on aid and suggested that I should do it as a free route. To make a long story short, Charlie joined in the crusade after I had been at it a while and together we worked out the crux moves but couldn't continue to the top. The crux bolt has been replaced and two more added, I believe, by Dale Goddard, who I believe also deserves credit for the first ascent. Cheers, Joe
Oct 12, 2001
13a/b? Sounds good to me. This route also has a fairly hairy slab at the top. I remember bringing a stopper or two to supplement the bolts. Also this is easy to work out on TR. In fact there's a great 5.11 corner just to the left to warm up with on TR. Almost like Rifle.
Oct 11, 2001
- Clyncke Punched a Hippy
- Day Dream
- Dispensary, The
There is a new 2 bolt anchor on this climb about 10' down and right of original tree anchor. UNFORTUNATELY this ledge is covered in poison ivy. Be careful. If you are sensitive to poison ivy, you could likely use the tree anchor and avoid the poison ivy.
May 11, 2017
Really fun, continuously thin moves for the first 2/3's of the climb. The gear up to the first bolt is bomber. After the last bolt, there's a pretty good stretch up to some uninspiring gear - save a #2 Camalot for the area behind the hollow sounding flakes. The climber's right-most ledge that one can top out on is covered in poison ivy, but it can be easily avoided.
Oct 19, 2016
Fun and interesting pitch. Thin face climbing! Seems that there is 2 ways to climb past almost each bolt... some ways easier/harder than others. Fairly big runout after the final bolt....
Sep 5, 2014
^^ Regarding the post above about the gear before the bolt, I was able to find plenty of gear to safely protect the climbing before 1st bolt. The moves off of the ramp are chossy but it is all there and gear can be had if you look around. After clipping the bolt, I back cleaned my gear easily. At the last bolt, step left and head straight up. I was able to find smaller gear to protect the moves onto the ledge before the belay tree. The tree has webbing and you can easily setup a TR after leading. I found this climb to be similar but better than bolting for glory. It will clean up nicely with more traffic. PS the block mentioned that is leaning against the tree is still there, but I put my feet on it and didn't seem too sketchy to me. If it goes, it will probably stop at the base of the ramp.
Mar 17, 2014
Good climb. The tree at the base of the climb has a large block leaning against it. This scared me, because I could not find any gear for the 1st 15 ft of climbing when you are already 40 feet up the ramp. I really wanted to sling the tree. I ended up doing this and had my belayer move toward a cave thinking that if I did fall and weighted the tree, the boulder might dislodge and crush my belayer, me, and possibily someone at the bottom of the hill. After building a nest 6 feet below the 1st bolt, I downclimbed to the tree and removed the sling because I did not dare weight it. Seemed possible if I fell higher on the climb. That said the climbing is easy to the first pieces but intimidating and not on very solid rock. I was unable to find any gear besides the tree before leaving the ramp. Maybe a #4 Camalot in the mud layer? I would love to see this block removed. It would be dangerous to do because it might roll all the way to the trail. Might be able to sling it at lower it down the ramp. Anyway, fun climb, well worth doing. Decent warm up for routes in the roof area.
Nov 14, 2013
Remember to check your knot and yer belayer!
Nov 6, 2013
- Dogpatch
- Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation
Not bad, and the upper half is quite good going right to the finish of Suparette when you can (at the big block) as well.
Feb 15, 2016
Levin's guide calls this Eat or be Eaten.
Mar 4, 2013
On October 3, 2012, I led (belayed by Dan Hackett) the "improbable feature" to the left of "Eat Or Be Eaten".... We don't know if anyone has done this line before, but it is well worth the effort!! Climb the 5.6 corner to start, then keeping left at its top to gain the broken ledge at the base of "Kor Direct". Start up the "Kor Direct", instead of trending left to black rock, continue up and right to the obvious, 2" crack that disappears up into the clean face.(I've up climbed this way and traversed back left to the "Kor Direct" and is a fun way to go also....) Place a few bomber cams in the disappearing crack. Step out right below a shallow, right-facing, seamless corner that leads up into the wide looking crack out the left side of the roof above. A series of runout liebacks brings you under the roof where you place a reachy, thin nut before continuing... A #3.5 Camalot protects the steep wide slot up to 5.9 climbing above.... I feel the difficulty was very similar to the the roofy cruxes at the top of "Eat Or Be Eaten" with an "R" rating. This is really an awesome pitch at 5.10b R, and we call it "Tweener Act".
Oct 7, 2012
This is definitely not the route Chris and I did! We were well right of this, and there were no similar cracks. I may have been causing some confusion with comments on Super Arete and the route Chris and I did, which I have submitted as Quantum Mechanics. That's because I now think Super Arete starts on the talus? If so, it also has no relation to the route I lead.
Aug 31, 2009
I was a little freaked out on this pitch. I had read a post about rabid bats being found in Eldo earlier in the morning. When I reached the key undercling near the traverse to Superarete, a bat started going crazy from the undercling. I quickly moved past the undercling to the key jug before the traverse. I soon noticed yellow jackets streaming out of the crack around my hand. Luckily, they were still a little cold and not too feisty. An exciting lead....
Sep 15, 2008
This is a great pitch! Truly a hidden gem!
Apr 25, 2007
Yes, Super Slab Direct starts left of th route described here. This is the variation to SSD as listed in Rossiter. I've described it here with a separate start that is more consistent with the grade of the upper face. Feel free to do the 11+ SSD start and continue with the route described here.
Apr 7, 2005
I could have sworn that SS Direct started on the trail, with an 11+ move past a pin. . . ? The pin is solid but you can back it up with a small'n in a scar right above it. If you are shorter, it's more like an opening move(s) of 5.12. A great start indeed with 5.4 to 5.10 pitch to the base of Super Slab.
Apr 6, 2005
Did this recently and was pleasantly surprised to find such a nice pitch that I didn't even know existed before. It's much better than it looks. I concur with Ivan's 10a or 10b rating for the lower part of the route, but if you take the left overhanging crack finish it's solid 10d. This left finish is wild and highly recommended.
Jan 20, 2005
Went back today, the day after doing this the first time, to get photos. In better weather and knowing that it's not S, our party agreed this is easier than 10c--10b or maybe even 10a. You can also get by with less gear than I listed. Thinking it was going to become S at any moment, yesterday I put in multiple pieces at every stance. I noticed today that you can go left at the top rather than exiting right to the top of Suparete. You can either step right and then easily step left, or go left as you come over the bulge above the shallow right-facing corner. I scoped it out, but didn't lead it. There is good gear and a hand jam (#2 Camalot), maybe 10 more feet of hard climbing, making this a completely independent line.
Dec 18, 2004
- Flakey Floont
Loved It! The hardest moves are the ones off the ground. No large pro required. Good rock quality. Excellent chimney experience. Bonus top rope of Mr. Natural.
Feb 11, 2017
I didn't think this was quite as bad as the description made it out to be. The rock isn't the best, but it's far from bad, and while the movement is awkward, it's still pretty fun. Definitely don't put this climb on the must do list, but if you're bored and looking for something new, this offers an interesting diversion for a few minutes.
Sep 5, 2014
- Flower Quarter
- Greaser, The
- Hasting's Cutoff
Hey Mike, just last week I received and email from Kent after he noticed my post of this route. Bruce Miller and Kent McClannan had climbed this line in 2010 and named it Hasting's Cutoff, 5.10b. It seems likely that someone might have at least toproped it back in the day, but regardless, this is really a cool addition to the Super Arete area!
Mar 17, 2014
Nice find, Drew! This is a good addition to the area. Similar in nature to p2 of Super Slab direct start. Needs to clean up a little bit, but overall it's a solid route and another good way to start Super Slab or Doub Griffith. Consider bringing a couple extra cams, #2-#3 Camalots.
Mar 16, 2014
- Kor Direct to Super Slab
- Lemon Line
- Lime Line
- Little Fish that Die Abruptly
- Loose Lucy
- Lucid Dream
- Micky Mouse Die-Rect
No fixed TCU exists. A small, manky nut is the lone, fixed gear, and, like the rock quality, is less-than-inspiring.
Feb 3, 2010
- Mr. Natural
Really fun. One of those routes that you walk by many times on the trail and smile at. More stars if it was longer.
May 22, 2017
As of this past Sunday (4/11/15), there is a very angry bat living in this crack.
Apr 13, 2015
We did this because the Great Zot/Rewritten area was a zoo and we didn't have time to wait. Protects easy enough, but I was specifically trying to jam it on lead and didn't have an easy time of it. After setting the anchor, I tried it again and cruised up as a layback. Fantastic climb, but short. A couple good rest stances.
Aug 21, 2011
I did this a while back and recall the line to be immensely enoyable, but too short. After getting spanked on Vedauwoo 7s, I was a little shocked at how easy this went. Definitely played more to my style, being a recovering sport climber and all. And the good pro was a definite bonus - especially since I felt deathly ill and wasn't thinking clearly.
Apr 2, 2008
Mr. Natural's (the route's) only fault is its brevity. It it continued with the same quality for another 60 feet it would be a super classic. It's still super fun, even if it's short. I'm sure some guys could relate to this. As for LSD, Dr. Leary had this to say: "Psychedelic drugs cause panic and temporary insanity in those who haven't taken them."
Jun 30, 2005
Tougher than it looks from the ground, this little pitch delivers a lot of fun and a high pump per vertical foot ratio.
Nov 5, 2004
After pulling over the flake, there is a very large jug (hard to describe but you'll know is when you see it). Towards the bottom of this jug hold there appears to be some friable rock. Looked like it could break pretty easy if one were to lay back off of it. Just a heads up.... Fun route, too short, but might be a good lead for those transitioning from 5.8s to 5.9 in Eldo since it protects so well.
Jul 25, 2004
"Those were the best of times , those were the worst of times". FWIW , I somewhat recall my solo ascent of the Bastille Crack on Purple Micro-dot. Guess you had to have been there. :~)Sorry you're too young to remember.
Oct 17, 2003
Saw the movie, as I never understood the underground following Crumb had.... Crumb was pathetic at best, just like his artwork. Lysergic acid diethylamide and a simple mind required.
Oct 17, 2003
Oh yeah. Led this route naked in 1978, but no long white beard. I was inspired by R. Crumbs [relentllessly] 70s character, Mr. Natural. If you haven't seen ZAP COMIX, check 'em out. Heavy stuff. OK, the route is short, but the climbing is exceptional. Hence, three stars. As for the name, Captain 4Q, see ZAP COMIX. I would also recommend watching the documentary of the life and art of R. Crumb, CRUMB. Heavy stuff. Richard Rossiter
Oct 17, 2003
Very fun, but short. If the jam crack were twice as long, people would be lining up for this one.
Aug 24, 2003
Good route but too short for 3 stars.
Jan 3, 2003
Three stars? A solid route for sure, but hardly three stars on an Eldo standard. As indicated for three stars: "This route is great. It's one of the routes that you smile as you crank the moves on the rock. The length and asthetics of the line are factors also. It's a route that, when you're done, you say excitedly to your partner, 'That was friekingawesome! You're gonna love it.' You look forward to doing it again with another friend."
Aug 13, 2002
A great route. This route certainly can give you a pump if you fiddle with gear, all of the gear placements are great so keep climbing. Have fun with this one, a great warmup if you are doing Yellow Spur or anything higher up, Gma's, Darkness, etc..
Nov 4, 2001
Rossiter gives FA to Robert Crumb, the cartoon artist who conceived Mr. Natural back in the hippie days. So was the first ascensionist just a stoned art enthusiast or did he lead it naked with a long white beard?
Aug 23, 2001
This is a great warmup line. Rossiter calls it "lightning-bolt shaped", which is appropriate. To locate, look for the line running up the middle of a clean face with a big flake that you have to move to the left and up to get around. 60 above the ground is a large tree with rappell slings. Its probably 50 yards below the wooden ladder.
Jan 1, 2001
- Over 'ed Power Line
John and Jenifer didn't do the first free ascent. I did the FA as an aid route in 1986. Derek Hersey saw the line and asked me if it would go free. We went together, and I gave it first try. I wasn't able to do it. Derek gave it a try and was able to free it. I followed on top rope. He named it Over'ed Powerline, but in his English accent, it sounded like Overhead Powerline.
Jul 8, 2016
- Phee-nix
Led this onsight with a couple terrified spotters in about 2001. Probably an irresponsible way to do it, but since there seems to be a new history of the route, it seemed worth mentioning. Climbs more like a highball V4 with a 5.10 finish than a 5.12.
May 13, 2014
From talking with a few people who have done this, Phee Nix does not step in from Flakey Floont on the right, but begins with the boulder problem start described above, i.e. you climb directly into the corner from below (good hold for right, reach left to OK hold, reach right high to sloper, shallow pocket, better pocket, bucket). I still need to ask Mike Brooks (FA) about it, but I know David Light led the bouldery start in the late 1980s after he worked it on TR a bit. On toprope this felt like 5.12a to me.
Oct 24, 2007
- Pickpocket
True, this thing would be called "zone two" in John Bachar's ropeless rating system: if you fell you would definitely get hurt, but you wouldn't die.
Jun 16, 2007
With all due respect, this is not a good boulder problem to blow. The crux is high enough that you'd be in bad shape if you blow it turning the bulge. Only 5.8, but a high ball at that rating. Best to think of it as a solo...albeit fairly short.
Jun 11, 2007
Fun boulder problem.
Jun 10, 2007
- Quantum Mechanics
Hiked up to the area today and saw unequivocally that the route Chris and I did was virtually the same as Super Arete. Not claiming FA here, couldn't care less, but that's where we climbed in 1973 sans bolts. This route should probably be removed as a separate climb. Cheers!
Sep 7, 2010
P.S. Jim Erickson has the route description but not the rating (my fault) right in Rocky Heights, 1980. I'd give this four stars if it were better protected.
Aug 31, 2009
- Real Men Eat Eggs
Nice work buddy, who says Eldo is climbed out! BTW- the route would not really be "R" if you clip the bolt on CC (maybe only pg-13), but Matt decided that it would be a better route if it was put up with all natural gear. Also, double ropes really help, since the pro in the BoC corner and the pro after the traverse to CC are at the same height. -Scott
May 20, 2009
- Remention
The bulging start with little or no gear at the bottom is the crux of the route and is harder than 5.8.
Feb 15, 2016
- Rosy I
- Rough Roof
- Roving for Love
Hang a long runner on the bolt on the roof of Rover so that your second can do the moves. Otherwise the bolts at their feet once they pull the moves and the rope is pulling them back off the roof. Also, long arms are useful to clip this bolt for the leader. I think the bolt is in a bad place (better than no bolt however).
Nov 18, 2001
Interesting link-up.
Oct 23, 2001
That would be a cool linkup. Roll Over Rover is superb. That first pitch of Love Minus Zero is one of the finest pitches at the grade in the canyon and gets no traffic at all. I don't remember it as being too runnout, just that holds that you can't see from below appear right when you need them and you got to get fiddly with the gear. Is that sideways pounded-in stopper still protecting the Love-0 roof? This whole link-up can be done at a grade easier by climbing Super Slab to start and finishing right on T-2 rather than left on the Love-0 roof.
Oct 19, 2001
- Schizophrenia
Crappy rock quality. Throw this climb in the dumpster.
Aug 21, 2011
The start is easier by turning around and walking up the ladder a couple of rungs. But don't tell your sponsors....
Oct 29, 2007
Nice warmup to above pitches. Head over to [Mickey Mouse Nailup] and then to [Alice in Bucketland] for a great day. T Nydam
Sep 12, 2005
Decent climb and fun while it lasts. The start is a bit bouldery for my liking and the interesting part is way too short. In fact, the whole climb is way too short. Definitely a one star.
Jul 6, 2005
Although this climb is almost too short to be called a route, it has some fun moves on it - esp. going over the small roof and a cruxy move or two in the dihedral. I'd recommend doing it if you are waiting around to get on the super popular routes up trail from it (e.g. rewritten, yellow spur ,etc.). Nice little warm up for the day.
Jul 25, 2004
- Senora (??)
- Senorita
- Shadow
I think that I may have found the 5.10 variation. The cove mentioned in the description is the biggest weakness in the roof and probably only 5.7. The 10 is about 5 feet right going up a dirty crack with vertical pinches for holds. This variation also deserves 0 stars - extremely dirty, loose, and discontinuous because of the huge ledge.
Jul 13, 2003
- Slimy Spoon, The
The third pitch is AWESOME. The rest of the route is not great, and by that I mean kinda a choss pile. I think taking the slab ramp to the third pitch is a blast, though.
Nov 25, 2017
I've climbed this route a couple times now and really enjoy it. It's pretty clean too. The leftward 5.9- finish definitely adds some fun to P2.
Nov 6, 2016
The most dangerous part about the route is the rotten traverse. The rest of the route is OK. We opted for the 5.9 finish (to the left at the end), which had good gear (yellow Metolius) and was a little dirty but fun.
Dec 20, 2014
I personally think this is one of the most fun 5.8+ routes in Eldo. It must have cleaned up over the years, because I think it climbs quite cleanly. The ramping, diagonalling 1st pitch is nothing special, but the 2nd pitch is spectacular stemming up the steep, left-facing corner. Climb the steep finish to the left (5.9-) instead of taking the moderate rightward finish. Incredible position to the top of the Lower Ramp!
Mar 17, 2014
Too much loose junk to be good, despite a good looking last pitch. Not worthwhile unless you've climbed hundreds of other Eldo routes and are looking for something new.
Apr 4, 2010
Did this route today and totally avoided the death flake at the crux by yarding on the nut I put into the finger crack. Without doing that and avoiding the flake this move would be much harder than 5.8. I did move out to the left just under the flake in question as there seemed to be a plethora of good holds there. All of those flakes were loose and scary. I frenched the nut and got outa there! I did like the route though.
Oct 22, 2003
After climbing this route yesterday, it is readily apparent why this one doesn't make anyone's top ten list. There was much rotten rock, some very suspect flakes, and a few moments of shear terror as rock groaned and creaked - rock isn't supposed to make those sounds and not while I'm lying back on it! For a true Eldo experience, however, after climbing Chianti Wednesday, it was a great contrast on the quality and character of Eldorado, and one of the reasons I love Eldo so much. Trad climbing truly is an adventure. Sometimes a dangerous adventure, but that's part of the appeal isn't it? I think with a little knowledge of the rock to avoid this climb can be safe and enjoyable, so I'll try and do my best to share some of my experience so you can avoid the most dangerous rock. Interestingly, the protection was fabulous on this climb, but the rock you climbed was horrible - how's that for contradictions?? The start is exactly as Mike describes it, up a short one move wonder dihedral that is fun, and then the work starts. Once on a left leaning ramp, traverse left along the top of quality rock, with a terrible rotten band above. You will need to cross this rotten band, so be creative with your pro in this bad rock as you go left. I found an awesome #3 in good rock that I was able to run a double length runner to protect this traverse. The rock is rotten, but the worst is obvious and easy to avoid. Once opportunity presents itself, shoot straight up to the roof above, which will take great pro. This keeps pro above your head, making the leftward traverse under the roof very secure. Once at the apex of the roof, the worse part is over (for this pitch!), and you can follow the left or right dihedral above over clean rock to a ledge. Belay well right or left of the slightly overhanging second pitch dihedral above, this is very important to avoid the danger zone of falling rock from the leader. Make no mistake; this is a VERY DANGEROUS belay, stay away from the base of that dihedral! The second pitch could be stellar - maybe in 25 years when all the crap falls off. Here's the blow-by-blow: Stem up the slightly left leaning, overhanging dihedral (Fun!) with great pro. There is a hanging Pizza Box flake in the dihedral that looks suspect, but you can stem out to avoid this first obstacle. At the apex of the overhanging section appears the Glider Wing Flake - a thin flat flake that temps as it is right in the face at the top of the dihedral. Work cautiously around and start back right up the finger crack above. Here is where I let my guard down, thinking the flakes I had just past were the flakes mentioned in the comments above.Oh no, not by a long shot. The crux of the route is in a clean finger crack working up the right dihedral. When it looks like you will need to lie back, really look at what you are grabbing onto - an upside down spearhead, the flake looks solid, but I called it the Death Spear Flake for a reason. I tested it, then went into a layback and the rock made the most unpleasant sound I've ever heard a rock make, I realized this flake was going to fall into my belly if it came off and land square on the head of my belayer below. Terror filled my heart. After Andrei jumped out of the way and I made a cautious, difficult stem out to the right, I was past the danger. I worked right and attacked the face straight up - the best part of the climb, but hard to enjoy. Oddly, even though dangerous, I enjoyed this climb. Maybe because Eldo still has surprises, and you can still feel like an adventurer so close to the throngs!
Aug 2, 2002
CAUTION!!! The loose block on pitch2 defies gravity at the moment! Make sure your belayer has a helmet and pray that the block smashes into lots of small pieces should it release while your on route. Also, without that block getting up onto the face moves which lead right is pretty stout for 5.8.
Jun 12, 2002
This is a much more enjoyable way of getting to the lower ramp than the 4th class scramble. Good warm up for Rosy, Ruper, Grand G, or Super Slab.
Feb 2, 2002
I did Slimy Spoon last spring. I also did Vertical Smile, or so I think I did. In the end, I followed two lines more or less where the topo on P.203 of Rossiter's old Boulder Climbs South book showed them. Neither really seemed to match the description, and we spent some time trying to figure out if we'd done the right lines. Neither was classic, but both were fun & easy & seemed reasonably safe at the time. I'd have given either one of them a *, but neither one two *'s. Anyway, there are a few lines up in the area worthy of the bother if you are in the area, but neither is a destination.
Nov 19, 2001
I think this route deserves at least one star, there are some loose rocks but they can be pretty easily avoided, and the last pitch is clean with fun moves.
Nov 19, 2001
I did something similar thinking I was on Slimy Spoon, regardless I don't think it deserves a star. Either hike/scramble up the lower ramp or if you're feeling frisky lead Super Arete.
Oct 2, 2001
- Strangle Hold
- Stray Stud
- Sub Slab
My partner and I both agreed that this route should be PG/PG-13 and not R. The hard moves are protected well, and the runouts were moderate and not terribly long. We also felt it was 5.9/5.9+, but both have long arms. It may be harder for shorter climbers. It is a good route and deserves to get done. Perhaps people doing the new route 'The Dispensary' will enjoy going on upward through this. The grade is no harder.
May 13, 2012
- Suparete
Fun time, only bringing draws. Get excited for the runout at the top!
Apr 24, 2012
That odd bolt at the top was there before the FA. It's not in a good spot for an anchor, since it's over the top of the steep stuff and would be well over 100' from the base. I usually belay off gear about 15' lower and then scramble up and right to descend. A useful sport anchor would need to be relocated, I think.
Apr 12, 2010
Any climber can apply to ACE's Fixed Hardware Review Committee to add another bolt. If the climbing community agrees, the application is usually approved by the Park. aceeldo.org/fhrc/applicatio…
Apr 9, 2010
Paul H. said: "There is already a "useless" bolt at the top of this climb. Why not add a second with rings so that this can be easily TR'ed, cleaned, and rapped from?" Agreed. The single bolt is really stupid.
Apr 9, 2010
Warning! There is a very loose block at the top of the ramp where the business part of the route begins. A bit bigger than a 12-pack, but flatter. It is on the ledge and a natural stepping stone for the left foot when transitioning to the vertical. Beware!
Aug 19, 2009
There is already a "useless" bolt at the top of this climb. Why not add a second with rings so that this can be easily TR'ed, cleaned, and rapped from? Yeah there is the tree to the right to rap from, but you can't see this bolt from the ground at all and why wear on the tree. Slings on the tree are visible from the approach trail.
Oct 5, 2008
Excellent route with fun moves on the lower crux. The upper "standup" crux is quite reachy. Great apph pitch to D-G, Superslab....
Apr 6, 2007
Our party agreed the crux was moving left at the last bolt. Barely in balance with hard to see and figure hand holds. The steep part at the 2nd and 3rd bolts wasn't as bad as it looked from below after figuring the sequence, but hard to onsight if you're not strong enough to hang out for a while. I wasn't, for sure. Clips are easy. This assumes you meeet a certain height/reach standard... You can TR from the ground with a 60m rope from gear (0.4 to #2 Camalot) in the crack above the final overhang.
Dec 18, 2004
I think the book was right when it said 11a/b. There is no certain grade as it is quite height and reach dependent.
May 31, 2004
Yikes, this route is a brutal "warm up" for Superslab, considering it is harder. Of course better protected, I guess. I had an epic time following Suparete, but not Superslab.
Mar 22, 2004
Escalar - I really like this route and have done it several times. Yes, you do need a small cam (blue Metolius tcu or fcu) about 8 feet above the last bolt. I usually belay about 15 feet below the ledge at a perfect crack (1.5 to 2.5 Friends) so that you can see your partner work out the crux, which is a bit reachy. With the supplemental gear, it is a very well protected climb and the perfect start to any of the routes that begin above the lower ramp (SuperSlab, Rosy...). Otherwise, you can rappel from the tree off to the right, or down climb from the top part of the lower ramp to the base of the route.
Jan 1, 2001
- Super Natural, aka Dr. Thrill
Fixed nut in the corner has been cleaned...oops. That bolt is in a very poor place. Nearly impossible to clip until you pull off the ledge unless you have a huge reach - which matters quite a bit since Scott pulled off a massive block in that exact spot right after clipping.
Nov 25, 2016
This is a classic pitch! Difficult onsight, sustained for Eldo, great way to link into Vertigo and beyond...much slater.
Jun 10, 2012
- Super Slab Direct Start
Technical but secure way though it is to start from the good feet, paste the left foot up on the offset and windmill though with the right hand into the crack above the left (which is just above the pin) before going left hand onto the jug. Then the hard part is over. Technical and grunty.
Feb 15, 2016
Cool Larry, I think this picture was taken around that same time, might have been '74, I'll have to check the date on my slide. Chuck Tolton and I think Mark Jansen were there that day, along with Gary. I'm not sure who the belayer is.
Sep 1, 2009
Art Higby and I did the FFA in 1973
Aug 31, 2009
- Tiny Line
- Toys for Tots
Bolts replaced as of 05/07/2017.
May 23, 2017
I thought that this was a fun route, not too spectacular but fun.
Oct 28, 2007
Yes, the hangers are still the very thin hangers. They are probably fine, but definitely not as bomber as the bolts on other routes, like Suparete down to the right. This route seems pretty contrived to not use the corner on the left, but it would be pretty hard without a stem over to that corner. Even with stemming over to that corner, I thought the pulls on the holds was at least 10+. it's short, though. Definitely a heads up finish. This whole route is harder than it looks.
Sep 29, 2005
I didn't notice the hangers. They seemed normal to me. First one is a spinner, though.
Oct 24, 2004
A few years back when I played on this route, it sported thin, somewhat spooky-looking, hangers that seemed similar to the recalled Leeper hangers...have these been upgraded?
Oct 24, 2004
I'm calling this S due to the long fall potential on the upper slab. I realize some climbers will disagree since the runout climbing is significantly easier (5.8??) than the crux 11a climbing, but I feel it's better to be safe and make it clear that this is not a typical sport climb with bolts very 6 to 8 feet.
Oct 24, 2004
- Unknown 10c aka Quadrille
The piton has been replaced with a glue-in Wave bolt per the public vote earlier this year. The pin had contact with the rock only at the bottom of the hole for about 0.75". I tapped the pin up/down/left/right, and each direction it would move about 1mm and stay there. One strong outward tug and 'schwing!' it was outta' there. Drilled the same hole deeper and placed a Wave bolt glue-in. Pin from Quadrille. Note where it was in contact with the rock...
Aug 25, 2017
Gonna have to join the "way hard for 10c" group on this one. Pulled moves between the bolts that involved yarding on a sharp crimper with the right hand while hand-foot matching a tiny pebble and sloping dish with the left. Definitely some missing rock on the small, left-facing flake above the first bolt, is that recent or cleaned on the FA?
Feb 14, 2015
I'm inclined to agree with those stating it is harder than the posted rating. I'm not quite 5'6", and I took quite a few hangs on lead to work it out. Went back up on TR to retrieve the anchors and cruised it easy, so who knows? Definitely sharp on the fingers through the crux.
Apr 19, 2014
Nice little route. 10c sounds right.
Dec 29, 2013
Maybe I just had a good day, but this didn't seem to hard for me today. (6'2" with +2 ape) beta I used: once matched on that reachy hold out right, there is a great sidepull 1 foot underneath the 2nd bolt. I brought my feet high onto a sloping ledge at my knees, and once I stood up, I could lean into the wall + continue to the horizontal crack. Felt waaay easier than Santa Ana (Captain 4Q), which we had toproped just before. I guess that's "5.9+" for ya though. This was my first 5.10 lead in Eldorado, so I'm not too sure of the grade.
Apr 14, 2013
Heeheh, it's .10c if you're 6'6". Shorter than that, I can easily see it feeling harder.
Apr 27, 2012
This is listed as Quadrille in the new book. FA Mike Brooks, '82 (whoever put it up, it's pretty fun). A nice short route to do at least once.... You all know you look at it every time you walk by....
Sep 10, 2011
Charlie was indeed the FAist. I know he had a name for it, damned if I can remember it.
Sep 10, 2011
Lenny Miller led this yesterday by stick clipping the first bolt and then climbing slightly right of the bolt and pulling really hard on the good hold at the base of the tiny, left-facing corner. I followed it completely differently by pulling on a two tip pocket with my right hand and rocking up and left to end up standing and in balance on the higher part of the starting ledge. I then smeared up on crimps and stepped far right. Both ways seemed very hard for 10c judging by the noise Lenny was making and my own experience with the left sequence.
May 4, 2009
Climbed this yesterday and enjoyed it. I'm 5'9" and found the right hand reach to be very 'reachy' indeed. The crux starts at the ground and goes to the second bolt. After that, the climb eases up a tad. I put in a blue Alien between the second bolt and the piton in the horizontal 'crack' for added measure. Short and sweet.
Jan 19, 2004
We did this route today and found it very interesting; I'd call it 10c/d or so. I found clipping the first bolt to be the trickiest spot, just because of the potential of falling on to the trail! Once clipped, we climbed it two different ways. Slightly to the right of the bolt is a good handhold and thin feet, slightly to the left of the bolt is good feet and thin hands. The left method is very balancy, the right more stenuous, but they felt about the same difficulty. The lack of chalk on this route really forced us to search out little key holds. A small Alien fits in the horizontal crack between the second bolt and the pin if, like us, you're so inclined.
Jun 29, 2003
Balancy, intricate, thin, difficult crux makes this a must do little short route that has basically toprope protection for leading the hard moves. There is an optional 1/2 size Friend placement between the second bolt and the pin. I think this is solid 5.10d. Seems to be a little to hard for 10c when compared with numerous other cruxes of that grade.
Apr 7, 2003
I agree with Tony on this one. In its current state (actually I climbed it about a year ago), I think this climb is more like 5.11a/b(?). It is a short boulder problem pitch, but it is sharp and quite difficult, I think. Even the first clip is pretty exciting. Bill
Oct 22, 2002
Verified. I was on the 2 bolts one pin, complete match to topo on text. Saw Toys for tots over to the side. Leading theory is a broken hold by to the right of the second bolt. Second leading thoery is I just couldn't figure this one out and got spanked. Either is possible, as there is evidence to support both a broken hold or that I am a goof ball.-T.
Oct 21, 2002
Tony, are you sure you weren't on "Toys for Tots (11a/b)", which is also left of Mr. Natural and has 2 bolts?? According to Rossiter, "Unknown 10c" has 2 bolts and then a piton. I have climbed one of these routes but it was a long time ago, all I can remember is it is hard to find an anchor at the end of the pitch ...
Oct 21, 2002
This is definitely a height dependent one. Shorter climbers find it harder. Taller climbers find it easier. 5'10" with +2 ape makes it feels 10c. My ole buddy Steve 5'7" found it quite challenging. Flexibility can help. Balance is important.
Oct 19, 2002
Tried to on-sight this on Sunday- both my partner and I got spanked. We both generally make very short work of 5.10. It's thin, sharp, and tricky. The holds are hard to see and harder to stick to. Granted, we were both tired...Still, the moves seemed awful hard for 5.10c... I honestly believe that this route is much harder. It reminds me of "The Unlead" except that it's harder than that too. 5.11??? Or maybe I was just having a bad day? That said, there was one hold up and right above the first bolt that was obviously broken in the not too distant past. Maybe that used to be a bigger hold? Good, different, thin.
Oct 14, 2002
- Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The
- Velvet Hammer
- Vertical Smile
I agree with Drew, it's a good pitch. The climbing is surprisingly steep on good holds with one reachy move in the middle. This makes climbing Slimy Spoon P1 worth it and is great to link into Ruper.
Nov 10, 2015
Although very ignored and overlooked...this really is one of the nicer single-pitch 5.7 routes in Eldo. Incredible position, beautiful features, thin crack, and some challenging sections. Classic!
Sep 4, 2014
Rossiter's description of this climb as a "Bastille-like crack" is misleading, if not false. The crack is not large and obvious, and its quality is not Bastille-like. I would definitely recommend approaching by climbing the first pitch of Slimy Spoon (despite its chossiness), rather than bushwacking and scrambling up the diagonal ledge. The Vertical Smile is the first crack system to the right of the large corner that is P2 of Slimy Spoon. Climbing both of these would make it worth climbing P1 of Slimy, but a rappel or downclimb from the Lower Ramp to the diagonal ledge would be required. Quo Vadis does not exist. Does anyone know if there is a rappel from the top of the lower ramp to the ground?
Nov 23, 2008
Paul, I'm pretty sure you were on P2 of Slimy Spoon. It climbs a chimney/stemming slot into a left-facing corner. I looked at it the other day when we did what we thought was Vertical Smile. There are no other features on the left side of the wall that could be Quo Vadis.
Dec 8, 2006
A few months ago a friend and I did what we thought was Quo Vadis. To get to it, we went to the top of the ramp, and there's a dihedral of bad rock. We went up this, and it quickly gets better, and had some fun stemming moves on it and felt 5.8ish to me, so maybe that was it?? but it may of been the second pitch of Slimy Spoon also...
Dec 8, 2006
I felt this climb's only redeeming value was late season afternoon sun, with the climbing on junk rock with only a couple of interesting moves. The top is very near, or may coincide, with the top pitch of Slimy Spoon. As for Quo Vadis (1 of 2 with that name in Rossiter's guide), it seems that either it doesn't exist or it's the same as Vertical Smile.
Nov 27, 2006
We fired quite a bit of rock off the upper bit of this pitch (might help?). We didn't find Quo Vadis either. Perhaps 1 star is too much?
Mar 7, 2002
- Waking Sleep
This route is the '5.10' variation listed in the route description for 'Shadow'.
Feb 19, 2011
- Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun
- Zombies on the Lookout
- Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
- Abracadabra
- Burning Chrome
- Burning Desire
- Chris Cross
youtube.com/watch?v=010KyIQ…
Aug 10, 2017
- Cinders And Saints
Allow me to clarify: The route is 30 feet long while the flaky fun part is only 5 feet long.
Oct 25, 2005
Are you kidding me? Five feet? Why the heck is this being included in here? Do you really think that no one has ever scratched up this before?
Oct 13, 2005
- Color of Pomegranates, The
There is now a direct start to this climb. It adds some low 5.12 to the climb. Instead of traversing off of the face, you can end your adventure at the start of the Twist and Crawl project. If you plan to go ground up, you will need some RPs and a draw with two lockers. Expect 5.12 run-outs. I would recommend you climb Darkness Till Dawn and traverse into the Twist and Crawl project's first bolt anchor. From there, you can use that anchor to hang a double length sling on bolt 7 and a double + a single on bolt 6.
May 24, 2017
The climbing on the face is AMAZING. This is a long forgotten gem. I only gave it two stars because of how indirect the climbing is. There is no gear after the bolt on the face, so if someone is going to follow it, they are not allowed to fall. I traversed over to the Spur of the Moment anchor. The only gear I placed after the bolt was on the arete, so after I clipped the anchor, I traversed back over to the arete, cleaned the gear, climbed back to the anchor, pulled the rope, and rapped. I then climbed up Darkness Till Dawn and traversed over to the first bolt on the Twist and Crawl Project. It's directly above the face climbing on The Color of Pomegranates. The first bolt on the Twist and Crawl Project is a fat glue in with a ring. I then used that anchor to clean my gear. It's harder than Book of Numbers, Je T'Aime, Madame Guillotine, and Hairstyles and Attitudes. The bolt has been replaced with a glue-in. Expect run out 5.12 climbing above the bolt. The climbing is easy when you traverse off the face towards the arete.
Apr 3, 2017
How hard is the R-section, and are the bolts any good?
Nov 5, 2015
- Controlled Burn
If this is the dihedral around the corner of p.1 of Hot Spur, I climbed the first pitch in early 2010 (March?) and called it Machete 5.9. The first bit was really bushy. We continued up a big flake to the pine tree. I'll look for exact date. Fun first pitch though!
Oct 3, 2012
- Culp-Raubach Finish
- Darkness 'til Dawn
Gotta say, I wish I had brought my #4 on this, mostly for the lower portion which was wide. Couldn't find any decent gear for about 10 feet, though maybe I wasn't looking in the right places. Other than that, you can sew this thing up if you want.
Jul 24, 2017
P1+2 is still a long, scary, physical, phenomenal pitch! Nothing has broken off P2...yet.
Mar 20, 2017
Burly and sustained! Stays in the shade, which is handy. Really fun.
Mar 14, 2017
Only do the 2nd pitch if you like climbing on and around huge, loose, death flakes. If you do, the gear is surprisingly good and the movement is cool.
Oct 6, 2015
Good rests but very sustained. The gear was excellent, but I felt like I had to work for some on it. You can TR this easily with a 70m rope.
Jul 17, 2013
Onsight after rapping down Grandmother's Challenge and sooooo glad I did this route! It'll be on my circuit now for sure, high quality! I used a 4, 3.5, and 3 C4 down low in the wide part of the crack and all smaller stuff the rest of the way. Previous commenter gave it a PG-13 gear rating, but I disagree. There is bomber gear everywhere you look on this thing, and you could easily put a piece every 2 feet if you wanted to. Down low you can protect the exposed moves into the corner committing to the crack by putting big cams out right, as I mentioned. Throws everything at you but with no-hands stances (I found 4 of them) and endless palming and stemming. I made it the original 5.9 by climbing efficiently, I can see how 10a is fair as well. Sustained and awesome, go do it!
Apr 4, 2013
Super CLASSIC 5.10 climbing. One of the best 10s I have done anywhere. This climb just eats up gear all the way to the top. Save a #1 or #2 for the top. Fun, sustained climbing with good rests.
Jun 26, 2012
FOUND: Gear sling with QDs and a cam Saturday June 9, 2012. Gear has a one of a kind paint / tape job, so please give me an accurate description of it and it's yours!
Jun 11, 2012
Despite the looks of it, there's actually a bunch of solid gear on P2. I found a bomber brown tricam, 0.75, and 0.5 in the bizness of the roof. Now the rock you have to pull on, that's loose for sure. You can link P1 and P2 for an amazing pitch with a 60m; go for it! Also, the crack start on P1 is great.
Dec 7, 2011
P2 beta: I tried the 2nd pitch, was through the cool slot (undercling), and was at the white dagger hand hold in the corner (over halfway) when I decided to escape left since I could not see any gear on the upper right exit moves nor a rest. But later I noticed I totally missed a large foot hold stance on the right face slightly above my head, doh!
Oct 17, 2011
I agree that a few small hexes and a #4 might make you happy.
Sep 7, 2011
If you have 2 #4s, the bottom half will be a little more secure. Not required, but if this is at your limit, you will be happy to have them.
May 1, 2010
For this climb I only had 1 #3, though doubles in #2 helped. Also, this was a climb where I wished I had lugged some smaller hexes along... looked like some great placement s! Also, you get a good rest every 10 feet at the very least, so don't be intimidated by the grade. I went into this climb thinking it was a 5.9. Pretty soft for the grade, compared to other 5.10as I have done in Eldo (Born under Punches, var. to Yellow Spur, Rosy Crucifixion...).
Aug 15, 2009
I had a harder time on this route than on the first and last pitches of the Naked Edge.
Apr 22, 2009
Despite the rests, I thought this route was enjoyably sustained. I brought a #3.5 and #4 Camalot and placed one towards the bottom and another at the very top, though a #2 Camalot would have worked at the top. Beyond that I had a standard rack and placed a variety of pro from small nuts to a #3 Camalot.
Oct 24, 2008
What a climb! Great variation of moves. If only this went to the top, Couldn't get enough of this route. Wow!
May 7, 2007
Great long pitch. Milk those rest stances. No hard moves, just tricky sequences. Onsight 2/1/06!!!
Feb 1, 2006
One of the best pitches....
Nov 11, 2005
I've seen this one several times coming down the trail after doing other climbs and have always been intimidated. However, I rapped off the tree after finishing Grandmother's Challenge the other day and gave it a go. I am just getting into 10a Eldo leads and I found this one to be really fun and reasonable, albeit long. The gear is generally very secure and almost all moves are followed by good rests. Highly [recommended].
Nov 10, 2005
Great route, a number of challenges and good pro before each. I found a #3 and a #3.5 Camalot very useful down low after the initial transition into the corner.
Oct 11, 2004
Excellent route. You will use all your climbing skills. Great pro. Crux in middle is thin. This is the perfect rain climb. We took our time and climbed dry through a good rain for 45 minutes.Climber and belayer stayed dry. It wasn't windy but just a steady rain.
Aug 14, 2004
Caution: people have been dropped when toproping the route, with tragic results. If you are going to toprope, DEFINITELY tie a knot in the end of the belayer's rope, even with a 60m.Even then, downclimbing is required, and some scrambling by the belayer.
Oct 13, 2003
I did his climb for the first time yesterday. It is indeed a must do for the grade. Next time, I would leave the large cams on the ground. Bring two #1, #2, and #3 camolats. A single 30M rap works well, with a short low fifth class down climb.
Jun 22, 2003
you CAN rap with a 60m, you just have to downclimb the first easy section. just make sure you start downclimbing BEFORE you hit the end of the rope!
Jan 6, 2003
Keep in mind that you need two ropes to get down (unless you have a 70m rope). Summer '02 there was an accident here and I know someone that also let the end of the rope slip through the belay device and caught it with one had. Yikes!
Jan 3, 2003
Excelet Climb!!! Many short cruxes with rest in between them all. If it feel hard you are not milking all the rests. Take 2x2, 2 x 3 , 3.5, 4. It looks small from the ground but if get quite wide in places.
Aug 26, 2002
There is also a DIRECT FINISH to this that gets you to the tree. It's obvious, about .10+, and was a real favorite of Derek's. Don't let that last fact dissuade you though, it's well worth doing. Double ropes let you lead it all with no drag and make for an great rap back down.
Aug 21, 2002
One can climb up and left on bad rock from the anchor at about 5.6R to access Green Slab Direct. Helmets and a belayer who is ready to sprint out of the way of the oncoming rockslide are a must. I seem to remember doing this in one 60m pitch from the ground. The climbing is way-jingus but it goes.
Aug 20, 2002
Ok, I must make it harder than it needs to be because last time I did this route my second (Lindsay Gill) walked up it in tennis shoes!...
May 21, 2002
Stemming and Palm-smearing are the technique keys necessary to keep this route feeling like it's original grade of 5.9
Jan 23, 2002
I find this route to be pretty stout for the grade especially because it used to be called 5.9! I would caution anyone who picks this as their first 5.10 in Eldo even though the gear is very good, the crux is thin!!!...Excellent route though, and totaly overlooked. This is a good alternative to other crowded routes in the area. Top o' the li
Jan 23, 2002
this is a spectacular climb, and quite long a sustained for the grade, but don't let this scare you. there are several excellent rests and the gear is incredible (many medium nuts camalots .5 to 3), just be sure to bring enough if you don't feel comfortable running it out. to get off i lowered to a height about 20' above the ground with a 60m rope, and then did some very easy downclimbing to the ground.
Aug 1, 2001
- Direct Variation to Zot Face
This is the green, left-facing dihedral. The abundance of lichen testify to how seldom it is climbed. This is a "pull down, not out" pitch... unless you are in the roof. Thoughtful gear, tread lightly. Not recommended for new trad climbers but certainly a fun 5.8 pitch that adds a little spice and variety to the route as a whole.
Apr 6, 2016
- Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite)
No fixed gear as of this morning. Protects well with a selection of cams and nuts. Best as a single pitch. Super fun!
Sep 8, 2017
There is no longer a fixed pin on the route.
May 3, 2015
Aka Kryptonite from S. Levin guide, the stuff that kills Superman. Another classic pumper.
Mar 26, 2014
I'll add to the praise: this route is from bottom to the top an incredible climb. The gear is good and everywhere you want it but sometimes strenuous to place, which I think adds to the difficulty of the route. Overall, I thought the hardest moves were moving from the left crack into the right-facing dihedral. The moves off the pedestal are very well protected, and if you're sly enough, you can slide a bomber small stopper just high enough that if you were to blow the moves you wouldn't hit the pedestal. I led this as one long pitch and could have used a few more double length runners for the upper crack that bends around the arete. A 70m rope makes the rap no problem.
Jul 9, 2012
Really fun route! 130 feet of good climbing the whole way broken up by 2 great rests. I found the crux getting to the fixed cam not above in the dihedral, but that's just me. The whole climb protects really well. I did find one spot where I was 5/6 ft. above a #4 RP that was an ok placement, but aside form that, there is gear all over this thing. If you are in the area, go for it! Great climbing on great gear.
Jun 27, 2011
Awesome pitch!! Just before the crux there's a fixed purple TCU that can be clipped (blindly). I backed it up as soon as possible!! Great route. Makes you go a bit above your (small) gear in a couple spots, and I thought it was pretty balancy and reachy, but I'm only 5'5". A 70 meter rope will get you back down with about ten feet left.
Oct 1, 2006
I've done this route a few times. The first time was with a Jens Meyer after work in 1995 when we ran up with nothing but a set of stoppers and maybe 2-3 cams to do Grand Course. We did that route and on rap we saw D.A. We had no book with us but we had plenty of time. I racked back up and lead this pitch, finding nothing worth belaying off of at the top of the pillar with the rack we had (stoppers), so I kept going up. Done as one pitch, this felt like 5.11a, R. A few years later I went back up with Matt (I forget his last name) I lead the bottom, which felt like 10d, and he got the top pitch. We took more than stoppers that time, but sure enough, maybe 10-15' off of the belay he popped off, popped a piece, and landed next to me on his butt on the pillar. I'll never forget looking him straight in the eye as he hit and seeing his face- I thought something was broke. Matt was a tough guy though- he said he'd finish it following despite the tail-bone bruise. Second pitch felt like 10d that time, though I definitely had a ledge fall in my head the whole time. Moral of the story? Well, I suppose to watch the gear, and to take cams to shove up under flakes on P2. As well, that the grade may depend on how you do it- as one pitch or as two.
Oct 6, 2003
Aw Ben, please don't take my 11a from me :) This IS a soft 11, but I like to think it's a soft 11, not a hard 10. It's a lot harder at the bottom if you try to stick ONLY with the finger crack (don't use the stems out left). That being said, I can't imagine why the stems out left wouldn't be "on"... And there's still enough crimpy nastiness to deserve a 5.11 rating IMO. This is a great route, and you should DEFINITELY do the whole thing as one pitch. A single rope WILL make it down from the tree at the very top as long as you rap left. This just means that you HAVE to bring the second up to the top since you can't lower the route with one rope.
Oct 6, 2003
I followed this route yesterday, what a great climb! From the tree at the top, you can rap all the way to the ground using one 60m rope.
Mar 16, 2003
Ahhh, what an incredible pitch! I placed a #4 Friend at the start... it could take a #2 Camalot but the #4 Friend placement is a bit higher in the crack. On lead the obvious way seemed to lieback up to the pin, then bust a move back right into the dihedral. My partner stayed in the dihedral the whole way and said it was tough stemming, but probably not as hard as the way I led it. This climb goes easily as 1 pitch (140 feet?) with little rope drag, even if you're like me and don't runner it too well.
Oct 5, 2002
If you take care runnering your gear on the first pitch (better yet use double ropes) it works fine to combine both pitches into a single lead (60M rope) more bang for your buck!
Aug 23, 2001
There actually two ways to do this pitch. After the initial finger crack one can go left up to a pin, or continue straight up and avoid the pin. Rossiter tells you to go straight up, I was confused and went left on some strenuous liebacking, still probably about .11a, perhaps a little more devious than going straight up? Going straight up to the belay from the pin looks really cool, however it gets .10+ in the old b.c. south and now gets .11d in the new guidebook!
Jan 1, 2001
Going straight up from the pin (called Rabbits from Hats) was called 10d in the old guide, but this was a typo. More like hard 5.11. Most folks, on the sharp end, lieback strenuously up to the pin, (which can be backed up with an excellent 3.5 Friend/blue Camalot) then step right, thought it may be a tad easier to keep right. Second pitch is very good. It has a deceptive move at the start, which is 5.10d Eldo, (which means solid 5.11 modern sport). This is harder than any individual move on the first pitch. After this it reverts to about 5.9.
Jan 1, 2001
- Doris Gets Her Oats
- Dream Weaver
- Everybody Route, The
- Fanning the Flame
Named "Fish Cake" in the Levin guide.
Apr 19, 2011
- For Whom the Bell Tolls
- Grand Course, The
Did the 5.10a variation today. Great route, especially the upper section. Bird shit was not an issue at all. Perhaps the recent rains cleaned it up.
May 21, 2017
The right "5.11" stem corner is not 5.11 if you exit from the top of the dihedral to the left. This is maybe mid-5.10 done with feet a bit above your last gear (a very typical Eldo crux). Lower down in the right hand dihedral is 5.9, on par with the Green Spur. I have not done the right exit. Don't expect 5.11 corner climbing. Good climb, I liked the wideish crack at the start. Fun!
Mar 27, 2016
The route itself and movement is very cool, but the slickness and pigeon shit detract (the 5.10 variation, I have not yet done the 5.11 section).
Jun 17, 2015
I recommend doing the 11- variation up the dihedral on the right side, as the 5.9 is full of bird crap on the left of the two cracks.
May 31, 2015
Because this climb has a 5.11 variation doesn't mean that it is a 5.11 climb.
May 24, 2015
Combine into one pitch with a 70m rope, you can lower off the anchors and TR. Single set fingers, doubles from 0.5-2, one 3 & 4 was perfect. If you really want to sew it up, throw on another 3 & 4. As everyone else describes: good crack technique is pretty much a must. You can stem around some of the wide stuff but at a harder grade. I got a knee in and was able to get a bomber rest...learn to crack climb. Awesome climb. A little over graded at 11a, I'd give it sustained 10. Bird shit is medium once you hit the twin cracks. I was able to make it non-issue. Afterwards, swing over and give Silver Raven a burn.
Jun 17, 2014
Very little bird shit right now. In its current state, 4 stars.
May 21, 2013
Did this 5/14/2011, and bird poo was not bad at all. Great done as a single pitch. We did the 10 variation after coming over from West Ridge and doing Handcracker. This climb was certainly more sustained and difficult than Handcracker, IMHO. I think I saw a couple feathers and part of the skeleton of the dead bird in the crack mentioned in previous comments.
May 14, 2011
I rapped from the new anchors with a single sixty. It will make it to the ledge above the 4th class scramble to the start of the climb. You will have to swing in to get to the ledge (watch your ends). A single 70m will get you all the way to the ground.
Apr 26, 2008
This climb is sick! All sorts of varied crack technique. Hands, fists, thin hands. Good footwork will ease up the pump a little. Did the 5.9 variation at the top. Whole route goes easily in one pitch (on a single). I didn't even pay that much attention to extend placements with runners. Don't know if they are new, but there is a nice bolt anchor atop the 11 variation finish. Double rope rap with 60s makes it to the ground with plenty to spare. A single 70 barley makes it back to the ground. Well worth doing!!! CL
Feb 24, 2008
Someone told me this was a .10a, not too sure about that. Very sustained but all the moves are great. On the end crux move coming out of that dihedral, it helped a lot to move the left foot out of (on the edge) the dihedral. We did it in one pitch with a double rope rap
Oct 20, 2007
As of yesterday, there is now a two-bolt rappel anchor at the top of the second pitch. It is about 33-meters to the ground from here and a single 60-meter rope will probably get you down to the top of the easy pillar at the start of the first pitch. From there it is easy (4th class?) scrambling to the ground.
Apr 30, 2007
You CAN in fact rap off the tree on top of Paris Girl with a 70m rope.
Nov 2, 2006
Having done this a few times, we rapped off the tree at the top of Paris Girl with little thought with our 60m. We had seen two women rap earlier to the top of the pillar at the start of Disappearing Act with a single rope. Turns out they rapped from the next tree to the left. Do NOT rap off the Paris Girl tree with a single 60m or 70m (the first tree with slings you come to). I got to the second ring bolt on Paris Girl when I realized no way was I going to make it--to the ground or far left to the pillar. It was pretty scary hanging there with about 10' of rope left below me and the ground another 15' below that. The safety knots did not inspire. I wrapped the ropes around my leg, tied the tails to my harness, and began prussking with my one prussik. Stand up, "rappel" backwards, hang on belay device. Repeat. Re-wrap the ropes around the leg every 4 iterations. Check out the amazing Paris Girl while recovering between upward lurches. Eventually I was able to swing left to the pillar at the top of P1 of Disappearing Act and go off rappel. Luke moved to the left tree and we rapped in two rappels (although one 60m should make it from there to the pillar on Disappearing Act).
Sep 5, 2006
Climbed this on Sat. March 25,2006. Great Eldo crack climb. I highly recommend doing it as one long pitch. To my surprise, the bird poo was minimal, not nearly as bad as the avian feces on Grand Mother's Challenge.
Mar 27, 2006
Traverse climbers' left to the tree atop Disappearing Act. Rap uphill, be very careful of the ends, which don't quite reach, and you may have to do some minor downclimbing. I've done this several times with a 60 meter rope.
Oct 5, 2004
Is there an easy way to down from the top of this climb with a single 60M? Or, is a double rope rap required?
Oct 5, 2004
My partner led the 5.11 right-facing dihedral on Sat, exiting the dihedral by using some holds to the right, and then climbing directly out of the dihedral onto the slab above. When I followed, I exited the dihedral at the crux around the arete to the left on to lower angle rock. A good #3 camalot placement protects this move. My partner gave me a hard time for taking the easy way out so I lowered back down and did it his way. I would say that his way was 11a and my way was 10b.Perhaps this explains why some people think this climb is over-rated. Since the rest of the dihedral is no harder than 10a or so, I would say that exiting left offers an excellent 5.10 climb on par with Over the Hill on Rincon. That said, the 11a variation is well-protected and is just one move so it would make an excellent "first 5.11" lead as well.
Sep 23, 2003
Even though a pigeon shit on my helmet, and the shit dripped dripped down on my shirt, I thought the route was worthy. Either way, left or right at the top is good. I went to the right and placed a bomber #3 Camalot right below the crux. I think the pigeon situation is worse in the spring than later on in the year.
Jul 20, 2002
Just do it in one pitch either 10 or 11!
May 3, 2002
Climbed this 4.30.2002. As Ben states in the description, there are a couple of choices for the first belay. If you opt for the 11a second pitch, it is probably best to belay lower and to the right. Setting a belay on the ledge (higher to the left) causes the rope to run over a sharp edge at the start of the second pitch.
May 2, 2002
This route deserves three stars despite the bird shit. Erickson onsighted it as the first 5.11 in Eldo. The upper dihedral is fantastic and well worth the grovel below.
Nov 2, 2001
Ross, Rossiter's guide gives P2 an 11-. If you were to call the 2nd pitch 10+ and maybe even 10, I wouldn't argue. Ratings are subjective. My second thought the rating was close enough. At the crux (for me) section on P2, I didn't find any hand jams (lower, I did). I felt the climb was similar in difficulty to P2 of Muscular Dystrophy (also rated 11-). I am assuming that you took the right-hand finish/P2 and not the 9/9+ to the left.
Oct 11, 2001
I can't believe you could give this climb a 11-, pitch 2 has good feet and two great hand jams coming out of the alcove. Orginal grades are fair 5.9+ and 10-. I loved this route.
Oct 10, 2001
Erik, you must have done that thing the within a day of us, since the bird looked "fresh". I forgot to mention the dead bird and figured it would make a good surprise. I think the thing is as good as the Green Spur or Grandmother's Challenge (10-, not c). Of course, in addition to being a crack afficianado, I enjoy technical dihedrals like the 2nd pitch.
Jul 17, 2001
We did the 5.9 variation on the second pitch and it was nice, though it felt pretty hard for 5.9 (harder than Werk Supp or Over the Hill top pitch I thought). Also there is a dead bird in the crack of the 2nd pitch (yuck). As for the first pitch, 0 stars in my book. I am mostly a crack climber and even like weird grungy things but this has more bird crap on it than I have seen in a long time (there was another comment about this but maybe it got lost). Add to that the less-than-enjoyable polished, slippery feet and you have, in my opinion, an unappealing pitch. Maybe it would be a little better on a less hot, humid day, but I could not figure out why this was considered such a great climb.
Jul 17, 2001
- Grandmother's Challenge
Awesome route. Tons of fun, great pro. Do it.
Jul 24, 2017
This is outstanding as a single pitch - one of the best 240 foot climbs around.
May 18, 2017
Here is some extra gear beta from my side: Drop the number four in the wide crack BEFORE the crux (not the crux itself). You don´t need it at the crux. The crux itself protects wonderfully with a number 3 cam and an optional nut placement to the left. Mid-crux you can place a 0.4 cam. Next piece is the old nasty pin and a stuck cam under the roof. I was so paranoid about saving my number four that I didn´t place it at all, which says a lot since I´m usually overprotecting.
Jul 6, 2015
A bird shat on my shoulder while belaying the leader on P1. I took it as a good omen. Route is amazing, I hope the bird shit stories keep more people off of it, so I never have to wait in line :)
Jun 5, 2015
We rapped from the tree at the top to the chains on the face above and to the left of the crux roof. From there, you can reach the ground with a 70m...but probably not a 60m.
Jun 25, 2014
Wow. Do I suck at wide cracks (very likely), or is this hard for 5.10? I've felt way better on "harder" routes in Eldo (Art's Spar, Northcutt, T2, Genesis, Sunset, and Practice Wall all come to mind). Impressively difficult, impressively awesome.
Apr 5, 2013
Because of my mid 20's senility, I may have left some locking biners and double length slings by the tree at the top. Their return would make me very happy.
Nov 3, 2012
I got crippled by drag on this today right above the roof. Take enough slings!
Dec 4, 2010
Apparently can be done in one pitch w/ a 60 if your second doesn't tie in w/too much tail and your leader places the pro w/ out too much drag! We did this on 5-4-10! The rope just makes it!! Inches.... Keep your shoes close!!
May 6, 2010
Less bird crap than compared to the fall right now. Can link all the way to the tree in one long pitch with a 70m.
Mar 22, 2010
Ahhh, the joys of Eldo. Nothing like the smell of birdshit in the morning....
Sep 18, 2009
I was on GC last evening and was horrified at the number of cliff swallows and the amount of bird shit that was coming out of the crux flake. As I was nearing the beginning of the crux I was pummeled by about 40 birds and poop rained down from the flake. It sounded like there were plenty more birds up in the flake, too. Thankfully there's a slung chockstone and I was able to escape quickly, since it was probably the most disgusting thing I've experienced over 10 years of climbing. If you're heading to up to do this route anytime soon, DON'T! Wait till those birds leave and you'll have a much better experience.
Sep 18, 2009
Train on climbs 11a to onsight 10c?
Jul 10, 2009
The Grandmother's Challenge rap anchor (when rappelling from the tree down by Darkness 'til Dawn) has been installed. This anchor was installed with ACE hardware. A big thanks to all that donate money and or time to ACE and FHRC. For those of you out there still trying to redpoint this route I highly recommend training on Vertigo (5.11) and Country Club Crack (5.11). I redpointed the route today by using a #4 CM just above the traditional belay. A #3 CM at the entrance to the crux. At this point lieback to get the right foot up then lock off on the lie back to bring the left foot up so that you are in a stem. I then place a #3.5 CM high into the crack. I then jam my left fist below the #3.5 bring my left foot into the crack and jam to the roof. At the roof you are able to stem again to place gear and or clip the fixed Trango cam. If you are not pumped at this point you will easily get the remaining moves. Note: The best time of year to climb this route is between November and March when wind, rain, and snow have cleaned the route of bird poo.
May 25, 2009
The bird crap is pretty gross, but what a spectacular climb all the way. A great way to do this, mentioned by Tevis Blom above, is do P1 from the ground up through the roof and then build an anchor just over the roof where you can get as many bomber pieces as you like. This way you can avoid having to hang out amongst the worst of the bird crap (traditional first belay anchor), the leader can easily talk the second through the roof if necessary, and the leader and second can communicate much easier from that belay stance to the top. And it's a spectacular place for a belay -- very airy.
May 10, 2009
I thought this climb was stellar!!! lot of bird poop but stellar nonetheless. I would advise bringing at least double #3 Friends and double #4 Friends if you have them, I found them useful for the fist crack section and just below the crux. I thought the crux was not too bad, but did it offwidth style, chicken winging and knee barring until I could get up to that sweet hand jam below the block. I couldn't for the life of me imagine laybacking that but whatever works. The Trango cam is still stuck mid way through the block making it a short gas to a "fixed" piece of pro. From there, it's a freaking cake walk. Undercling and layback the block to bomber big holds and good feet. Easy climbing lies ahead although I would advise protecting it as you go. I chose to sparsely place gear and had a hold break off and ended up taking quiet a fall clipping a ledge on the way down. NOT FUN. Either way I give this climb 2 thumbs up. Definitely take a gander at Darkness til Dawn around the corner as you rap down or just walk around and take a peak.
Mar 2, 2009
Was the Grandmother's Challenge rap anchor approved and placed? aceeldo.org/fhrc/applicatio…
Feb 18, 2009
Yeeehaaaw! Good fun. This thing looked burly from the ground, and it still looked burly from right below the crux as well :) Amazingly, with proper stemming the moves are all there. I used an armbar at the bottom of the crux to place a high #4 camalot but then upward progress was definitely made via stemming and working the left and right features. I vaguely remember starting the crux with a brief lieback to get established in the stem. I was glad to have two #4 cams for the crux section..... but YMMV as I didn't place any gear to the left of the crux or clip the pin. Not a great route for the second if they come off. My wife fell out of the wide crack and unfortunately she swung out onto the blank face on the right... and she really couldn't get back on very well. The piece was a #3 Camalot at the top of the crack, so there isn't much a leader can do to prevent this... just an FYI. The bird poop wasn't too bad, but I extended the belay below the chockstone to stand on the ledge.
Oct 24, 2008
At the risk of stating the obvious--for those who are not "at one" with the resident birds and their leavings, simply clip into the numerous slings around the chockstone at the end of P1, tie a clove hitch and extend it down to the ledge about 7 feet from the original belay. That way, you've got a nice place to watch your buddy and you don't have to worry about the wasting wetness in the crack above.
Jun 20, 2008
The slings and stuff for the belay before the roof were completely buried in bird shit, but it was otherwise avoidable. A 60m will not get you to the belay tree without about 30 feet of simul-climbing.
Feb 24, 2008
Too much bird crap. Enjoy.
Sep 13, 2007
Casey, thank you for validating my sanity! Ironically, we climbed DtD right after rapping from the GC tree (but no voices this time, presumably since no one was on GC at the time). Thinking about the orientation of the cracks on both climbs your explanation seems logical. The DtD crack that splits the left-facing side of the dihedral meets the GC crack on the other side of the arete. I wonder if you were to shine a bright light into one side you could see it from the other? This explanation is unfortunate in one respect, though: it would have been much more fun as a ghost story.
Aug 28, 2007
David C. - YES! I had a very similar experience at a belay just above the slings. I was looking all around me to find out where the "voices" were coming from ... NOBODY was anywhere within 100+ feet, though the sounds were right next to me. ... After I coax my partner thru the crux, I hear the voices say: "I can hear somebody" Then I realize I am not crazy, I am just hearing ghosts. ... Or someone is on Darkness Till Dawn. So I ask them (talking clearly and quietly into the crack): "Are you climbing Darkness Till Dawn?" Then I hear a lot of laughing ... and finally a "Yes I am, HA!HA!HA!" So does that mean that they are the same climb and one side is just a variation of the other?
Aug 27, 2007
Let me start with this: I do not believe in supernatural phenomena, nor am I particularly superstitious (the latter no more so than most climbers). On Sunday Im belaying my partner on the crux pitch of GC from just below the slings at the top of P1. After my partner clears the roof and disappears I begin to hear faint sounds coming from the wide crack at about chest level. My initial conclusion: pigeons, maybe bats (no surprise there). Then I start to hear metallic sounds, like those of gear clinking together. Okay, so theres long lost gear buried in there and the pigeons are disturbing it. I peer into the crack about a foot and a half deep-the point where dim sunlight meets blackness-but I see nothing. Then I start to hear faint grunting noises. The grunting gets louder and louder, but its definitely not pigeons or bats. Its the sound of a human being grunting! It gets louder and, as it gets louder, there is no longer any doubt the sound is coming from inside the crack, not via the crack by some weird sound reflection phenomenon, but from INSIDE THE CRACK. Im thinking to myself either 1) this crack is a wormhole piping sound in from some other part of the canyon or 2) the ghosts of Layton Kor, Jim Erickson, et al have come to pay me a visit (except neither Kor nor Erickson is dead last I checked). Anyway, I couldnt wait to get the hell out of there. Can anybody here 1) recall having experienced this phenomenon and 2) if so, offer a reasonable explanation for it (besides the voices are coming from inside my head)?
Aug 27, 2007
I have to say the bird shit or whatever it is takes away from the great climbing. The stuck cam (Trango) is still there. Now from gathering all the beta from the post above, I was going to avoid the wide crack not try to do any off widthing. Big mistake for me. After a few down climbs and takes, I had to get in there to move up. For the start of the wide crack I did lay it back, but then moved in with a knee to set up for the good jams above. I did clip the pin, but I don't think it was needed, you can get a #3 BD in at the same level as the pin. Now to pull over the roof is a bit heady. A lot of air under your butt. But it is all there. Have fun on it.
Jul 20, 2007
Great route. There is a purple cam (Camalot?) stuck under the roof. I hope someone can remove it, since it spoils the crux.
Jul 1, 2007
I was stoked to get on this climb today, and it didn't disappoint. I found the crux tough and a little burly. If you put in a piece at the undercling fingers, use a long draw so there isn't any drag. Great climbing on solid rock. Classic. We used 60m doubles and did the route in one pitch with a nice, 200 ft, free-hanging rappel over Darkness till Dawn. I recommend doing it in 1 pitch, much like Green Spur. I took doubles of 1-4 C4s and used them all. C L
Jun 2, 2007
I felt the route was soft for the grade. I was initially disappointed when I got under the roof that it wasn't more of an offwidth, but once I did it, the moves were fun. The hand stack splitter below the roof is not to be missed. The only bird poo I found on route was in a small pile on top of the sling anchor belay underneath the offwidth pod and it was very easy to avoid (build an anchor above the slings, they look rotted from the poo).
Apr 15, 2006
On-sight!!! (12/1305) First 5.10 route ever led on trad!!! Bird poo...minimal (basically it was frozen).
Dec 14, 2005
An amazing route. Rossiter describes the crux section as "wild and strenuous"-I'd say he's right on.
Nov 10, 2005
"The coveted "Eldo Bird Tour" must include the Diving Board, which having the excrement at the very crux I must give 5.11a Ex 3+.
Aug 28, 2005
I love this climb because it's the right size for me. This is where I get back at my buddies who lead thin cracks. I watch them struggle with way too many feet of 4"+ jamming.This is the climb for the 200 pounder! I'm surprised more people don't go to the tree in one pitch, or at least over the roof before starting the next pitch. I have attempted this route twice, I'm hoping #3 is the charm. I have wondered if the crux would be easier if the 2nd pitch started right below the crux, yet it seems such a shame to quit climbing right then! I walked a 3.5 Camalot in the 5.8 section, found a decent #3 Camalot in the back of the flare, and a #10 Metolius (close to 3.5 Camalot size) where the flare pinches down. A #2, and #3 Metolius fit nicely in the undercling, layback upper crux. It's nice to have your big cams pre slung with QD's or runners, as it saves a lot of time while you're pumped. There is a keeper hand jam at the top of the wide crack. (I just relaxed and the crack held on). It hurts like hell, but you can stem, place gear, and de-pump there. I have big hands, and I get fist jams through the back of the flare. This seems more secure to me, but some people just don't fit. The #10 Metolius placement held my 200lbs. Should be reassuring to all you skinny pukes.
Jun 29, 2004
This is a sweet route, don't let anyone tell you different, If youre just there to tick it off your list why be there to begin with?? The first pitch takes #4 Camalot well and is great fun at around 5.8. Save some big gear for the bealay, I used a #3 a #3.5 Camalot and a silver DMM. You can get 4 in at the start of the offwidth a #3 where it narrows to hand size, the pin looked shitty, and I didn't like where it would land me if I fell (which I did...more than once!!) so I didn't clip it, instead red of yellow Alien in the flake and then a large nut at the stance before you pull the final layback over the flake. Stemming is THE way to go, I would not really enjoy groveling through that crack OW style. Great route -- have fun!!!!
Mar 22, 2004
After having read the preceeding comments, I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents worth. **WARNING: SHAMELESS BETA AHEAD*** I think the trick for those of us that are...ahem..."vertically-challenged" is to get a hip scum with your left side in order to reach the high right jam. I discovered this after struggling for a good while trying to stem and getting pumped out.
Feb 1, 2004
Three of us (me, Kevin, and Jeff) went up this this on Friday. Needless to say, the slime was minimal. A bit of advice to those leading the first pitch: bring your bigger cams with you. Even though you think you might not need them before the roof, you do. Otherwise you'll have to set up your belay about halfway up the pitch. That said, if you come upon a set of slings and rings before the OW fist crack on P1, keep going. There's another anchor above you. Great climb, though the offwidth makes it WAY pumpy.
Feb 1, 2004
We did this route this morning and thought it was great. All the betaon pro I read beforehand, I thought, was very helpful. We did alsodo it in one pitch with double 60m and just barely made it to the tree. My partner belayed from the top of the block at the start to give usan extra 8 feet or so. I ended up needing it. I was about 5 feet fromthe tree while my partner was debating whether she should standup and start simu-climbing. If you're going to do it in one pitch I would recommend bringing radios so you could communicate clearly with your partner. Also I don't remember reading this anywhere, but we ended up takinga #3.5 Camalot. I found it useful in the fist-sized crack just below wherethe first belay should be. But I suppose if you did it in 2 pitches you could place the #4 somewhere in this crack and still have it for the crux. Alex.
Nov 12, 2003
I'm not sure what these offwidth comments are about. See the photo of the climber with arm buried in the crack. See the chalk on the left edge of the crack. That's for laybacking. No offwidth necessary. A while back I saw a much better climber stem the whole thing with no layback or offwidth. But today I looked at the stemming option and it was not for me.
Mar 8, 2003
Soft for the grade ... short crux ... are you sure you were on the right route? ;^)
Aug 26, 2002
This climb is outstanding and perhaps soft for the grade. Every one has different strengthens hence I do not suggest down rating the climb robbing due credit from anyone. I recommend this climb to 5.10a/b leader looking to move into the harder 5.10c/d ranges. The gear is outstanding hence very safe climb. The crux is short and intense. The climb was not a health hazard due to bird excrement either. As of 8/26/02 disregard and excrement warnings. There was only one position with a mildly grungy spot. I have climbed much worse. Triple up and #3 Camalots, 1 x 3.5, and optional 1x4. Currently their is a fixed piece where you would have placed the #4, so I did not use the #4.
Aug 26, 2002
Poo poo is still not oozing as of 04/25/02, the fixed nut is gone that I found earlier, a #4 Camalot came in handy. I climbed with Lindsay Gill who forgot her climbing shoes and managed the route (as well as Green Slab) in sneakers, burly...
Apr 28, 2002
I spent about 1/2 hour dangling beside the route yesterday and taking pictures. Plenty of bird shit is on the route, believe me. I shot a few rolls of film, and I am sure it will show in each picture. That said, it did remind me of how cool the route is, and also of how it might be just a little height dependent. Shorter body and arms mean having to do an extra move prior to the good jam below the roof.
Apr 8, 2002
Superclassic. I climbed this as one pitch, with my partner simuling for about 30'. This worked well as the last 30' seemed about 5.6. Early season must be the time to do this route, as I didn't notice any sheiBe at all.
Apr 6, 2002
Did it last night with Josh Janes -- the bird poo situation was quite tolerable thanks to the relatively low temperature and that's it's still early in the season. If you are going to do it this year, do it now. I thought it was an exciting, worthwhile climb. I didn't place the #4 that I had, although the #3.5 Camalot was handy, but also probably not necessary.
Apr 4, 2002
Hey, did you know putting #1/2 Friend and weighting it make that flake at the crux flex out? Be careful.
Mar 7, 2002
I must say that I climbed Granny's in late summer and the bird poop was horrible. I had to wipe my shoes off before starting up the crux. That little nest of slings and the footholds above it were flowing with dookie. I'm sure it's a different story in winter, but be forewarned.
Feb 9, 2002
Yeah I hear you, it is hard to deal with ANY bird-funk on a route that sits between the Green Spur and Darkness Till Dawn and I'm sure that the heat brings on some serious slime flow, still I'd have to say that since you can avoid the stank by going during the winter it deserves the stars...
Feb 8, 2002
Ok, I finally went and did this route and must say that the bird shit did not bother me, or my partner at all. I was hesitant to get on it because of the comments here, but I loved it. The only way you would touch the droppings would be if you thruthed up the off-width crux, if you do this you deserve to grovel through shit. Perhaps it was better since I climbed it in Febuary (less oozing). I was planning on doing it in one pitch but used my big pro on the first pitch and thinking that I would need that piece for the crux, I did it in two. I however think that one would be hard pressed to reach the tree with a 60m rope because I only pulled up about 25 feet of rope at the tree. It would suck to belay below the tree. The crux has a fixed nut just below the pin (as of 02/04/02), other than that, I placed a #2 Camalot just after the belay and a #3 before the udercling/layback. No #4. Don't hesitate to do this route because of the bird poop like I did, it's great. Three stars for sure
Feb 6, 2002
A 60 m rope will just barely get you to the belay tree. Manage the rope well, and the rope drag is not to heinous. Remember a couple of pieces of gear for after you pull the roof, moderate climbing but a fair amount of it.
Nov 28, 2001
How well does this work as 1 pitch?
Nov 28, 2001
Climbed this again this weekend. The only place bird crap bugged me was the odor at the first belay. The climbing is great and a test of skills requiring you to muster some offwidth skill, a bit of delicacy and power. Combined with the upper pitches of the Green Slab this is one of my top 5 outings in Eldo.
Nov 12, 2001
Pat, you are right on with three stars! The first pitch is excellent 8 hands and fists with many good crimps on the face, and the crux second pitch is laybacking through the crack and so you can't even see the birdshit, let alone touch it.
Aug 1, 2001
- Great Zot Variation A., The
I was actually going to add that as another variation, but the site went haywrie. PRobably a good recommendation to not have this as a whole route in itself, but seeing as how The Great Zot isn't described on this site at all, except for the beginning up to the Zot Face finish, I thought it seemed worthy as an addition. It isn't good, but it's better than the standard finish, so I gave it one star. The finish you've described is the best finish to The Great Zot, deserving of three stars with some pretty spectacular fun!
Aug 14, 2003
I'm not sure this variation needs to be added as a separate route. Perhaps add it as a comment under the Great Zot maybe? In any case, I've done this, as well as just about every other Great Zot variation while soloing in that area, and can't recommend much about this variation. Avoid it, as it's the worst way to finish the Great Zot. My favorite way of finishing the Great Zot is the wide crack that forms the right side of the tower of Rebuffet's Arete. Fun, mostly solid rock, and pretty mellow for wide-5.8.
Aug 13, 2003
- Great Zot, The
I, like Charles (see previous post), climbed left of the roof on the first pitch. The climbing isn't difficult; however, it is run out, and there's a large loose flake (clearly marked with large "Xs"). The traverse back to the crack can be protected by climbing a little higher above the roof (look far left). Next time, I'm doing the roof and skipping all this nonsense.
Jun 25, 2015
Climbed the first pitch of this climb today before linking it with Rewritten to Swanson's Arete. Instead of pulling the roof directly, I opted to climb around the left side and then traverse back over to the crack. There was quite a bit of fixed gear lodged in the roof crux, and I figured this move might make it a bit easier, which it may have been (5.8 instead of 8+?), but it leaves no option for protection and you end up about 15 feet above the pin doing a weird traverse before you can get gear in again. Probably best and safest just to throw a cam in the roof and pull it directly.
Jun 19, 2014
Thanks, Paavo, I went to do the "Local's Favorite" (Zot to Direct Variation to Zot Face) today and got ~20 feet up that dihedral until the seam ended. I didn't see any hold or chalk, so I unfortunately downclimbed it. It definitely looked harder than the 5.8 that Levin called it.
Apr 14, 2013
Today I did a third pitch variation listed in Levin's book as Direct Variation, route 290a, 5.8 PG, three stars rating. While it did have some loose flakes, it was relatively clean and had good gear. The line was super impressive going out left from the belay, then up a left-facing dihedral which after 40 feet or so goes left under a roof for 15 feet or so before exiting at its left-most point, then straight up the corner for 30 feet or so, till you step right about 5 feet to a small stance to belay (which I did because I'd run out of slings and had just a few cams left). The grade is definitely sandbag, IMHO. I would put it at 5.9, maybe 5.9+, sustained, with lots of exposure. Where I belayed, it was sparse for gear, but I got a red Alien in a space on the left, a small grey Camalot on the right, and a grey 00 Metolius TCU up higher on the right. Honestly, I would have liked to have had doubles in most cams for this variation pitch.
Oct 17, 2012
There's a variation 3rd pitch listed in Levin's guidebook, claiming a 'few loose flakes' rated 5.8 PG (to the left of P3 decribed on this site). It is basically 60ft with no gear in any solid rock and a great chance of pulling off loose holds. Please avoid this variation as the bottom is always crowded with people. I found it more sketchy than the 1st pitch of Moonlight Drive (at Cadillac) that gets a 5.8 R rating.
Apr 23, 2012
This climb seems to be suffering from "grade inflation!" It was considered "definition 5.7" when first put up and for quite a few years thereafter.
Feb 25, 2012
I absolutely agree with Kevin. The dihedral is a blast. We skipped out finishing Rewritten, went up the choss pile to the right of the Rewritten traverse, and found ourselves by the tree. The dihedral looked fun, and it was. Excellent bit of climbing. Wondering why it isn't included anywhere?
Nov 29, 2010
I highly recommend the 5.8 dihedral formed by Rebaffet's Arete to finish Pitch 5. It looks burly, and is solid 5.8 for about 15 feet in the middle, but eases considerably afterwords. If the off-width is too intimidating on the last part, one may leave the dihedral and fire straight up the face along thin, but well-protected cracks. The position and exposure on those final moves is stellar! This deserves its status as an Eldo Classic! The 4th pitch traverse...need I say more?!
Apr 30, 2009
I read Ivan's post from 2005 with interest because I followed that variation today. I was not convinced that the first dihedral you come to on the traverse left on the third pitch was the one referred to in Rossiter's guide: I looked over the roof, and though there is a decent handhold I didn't see much for the feet or any pro. Looked harder than the 5.6 noted in the description. I continued out to the upward-driven pin, clipped it (with serious doubts that it would hold a fall) and headed up the huge flake. Not too bad except for the rope drag. Next time I'll try the actual route. We went up the Zot Face finish which was great, I think it makes this a classic. We traversed left on the awesome hand traverse under the trees and then turned back right on the discontinuous ramp/ledges/corners over the tiny tree belay. Pretty easy climbing, but again we battled rope drag. Heading up the 5th pitch was fun route finding and I finally learned my lesson, placed pro sparsely and used a lot of runners. There is a great placement (small cam)at the bottom of the traverse left at the twin hairline cracks (crux) but no more gear until you complete the mantle at the end, maybe 12-15 feet. Definitely the limit of my comfort zone for the crux of a route. Rossiter's mention of the "small right-facing dihedral" is a little misleading, it's really more of just a discontinuous crack system, but an excellent finish to the route. Routefinding, loose rock, placing gear, rope drag; all the elements of a true trad route!
Jun 28, 2008
Climbed the first pitch this morning at about 730am, it was way cold. When my partner got to the crux he clipped a fixed cam in the cave/crack and tried to rest on it to warm up his fingers. The stem of the cam broke as I was taking in slack, luckily he had a good jam and caught himself. The cam head is still in the crack but is no longer available for clipping. Beware when clipping fixed gear. Climb safe, Kirk
May 4, 2008
We missed the Zot Face cutoff as well.... However, we did the variation that takes the right-facing dihedral to the right of Rebuffat's Arete. There is a microwave-sized, loose block just below the belay at the top of pitch 4 (as it's described here) just before you head up the dihedral. I pulled on it, and it rocked a bit - it will come down if anyone pulls on it at all. There's loose rock and weak flakes all over the place up that dihedral. Be careful.
May 3, 2008
Fun route. We ended up missing the cutoff for the Zot Face because we went to the Red Ledge eyebolt belay atop Green Spur. The rest of the climb from here is kind of grungy. I HIGHLY recommend actually reading the description first so you make it to the Zot Face finish, which I hear is classic. Enjoy! CL
Feb 24, 2008
This route is a great route, but lookout for the choss on the last pitch. We combined pitches 1 & 2 and 4 & 5 to do the route in 3 pitches starting from the ground. It is definitely doable. Have fun!
Jun 5, 2007
Very good route nice for first time multipitch lead. It is a bit of a wandering route, that's got some air. The last pitch is to die for. Lots of good belays and go do it. Worth the time.
May 31, 2005
Variation to pitch above Red Ledge? Reading the description and comments above, it seems that I've twice done the pitch above Red Ledge wrong. This is the variation I've climbed: On Red Ledge left of the large corner is a shallow cave. Climb out the right side of this cave and up grooves, short cracks and flakes to the right end of a long ceiling that extends to the left. I believe most climbers continue straight up from here to the start of the hand traverse. Instead, traverse left below the ceiling with decent pro and some interesting moves. A double length sling is useful at the start of the traverse. Near the left end of the ceiling place a hand sized cam with a long sling. The ceiling ends at a left facing corner with a wide, bigger-than-fist crack. Make another move left onto very thin, creaky flakes for the hands, and clip an old thin pin driven straight up into a small ceiling. Place a #4 Friend, or, more secure, a #4 Camalot in the wide crack. I recommend unclipping from the pin for reasons that will be apparent. Make a hard move, maybe 5.9, into the wide crack and onto the arete. Climb more easily up the arete, sliding the big cam up. When convenient, flip the rope right so it runs over the middle of the long ceiling. Either continue up the wide crack to the top of the pillar at the start of the hand traverse or, more easily and less of a grovel, traverse right to the right side of the pillar. Belay.
Jan 15, 2005
I've only done the east slabs descent once, in the dark. But I think it sucks. It is like downclimbing a flatiron with better holds. you can walk off well to the north, and then backtrack (s.west)down the gully to the base, similar to the descent from rewritten, you can either downclimb class 4 or make one rap and walk the rest. The slabs will basically put you at the parking lot which is most likely not where your stash is. I don't consider myself a gumby(well maybe), but gumbies certainly do not belong on the slabs. there are some funky sections (really funked out in the dark) that I would not want to be a beginner on.
Sep 11, 2004
Climbed this on 8/22/04. Watch your ass on the fourth pitch. I headed up and right after the great hand traverse, connecting all the wild flakes and edges. Near the top, as I was approaching the tree in the gully on the left, a huge flake (3' x 6') shifted on me as I was holding on to it with both hands. Prior to grabbing it I had thumped it hard and it sounded solid. I was contemplating placing a piece there as my last one was 20' down when it settled about 2" and sand and gravel sifted out of the bottom. Don't know why it didn't come off as the wall there is quite vertical. The obviously thing to do would have been to kick it off but there were a bunch of people below. The flake is precariously purchased there and something like a clap of thunder could knock it off. If it falls it will shatter and shotgun Dirty Deed, Lower Swanson's, the Zot, Rewritten, Rebuffat's and maybe even the Green Spur. As you're roping up for any of these routes you're right in the gunbarrel. Next time I go up there you won't find me sitting around the base of these routes. If you're ever up on that pitch at the end of the day and you're sure no one is below you (Someone suggested a team with radios) do us all a favor and clean the flake.
Aug 24, 2004
It should be noted that this is a great 1st pitch link up to the ledge past Swanson's and a terrific bypass of Rewritten with just one or two cruxy moves. As for the upper pitches, glad I'm not alone in missing the 'original' route. The upper areas are quite large and I have led into areas I could not find in Rossiter; quite happily, but a little runout. As for the rap, I used to use East Slabs years ago bit now prefer the rappel for reasons above. The danger is not in the Swanson's-T1 chimney (the one that should be used) but in the West Chimney adjacent to P1 which is a long established (30 years) rap route that I've rarely seen anyone climb. The only time I've experienced rockfall was at the start and it was because a team was stuck/confused in the Dirty Deed chimney, straight above the west chimney. It should be very easy in using the correct rap route to avoid rockfall at this point.
Jun 12, 2004
I climbed this route the Saturday early in the morning. No one was there. It is a great time in Eldo really quite and serene. We did the whole route in 4 pitches and I think it was pretty spot on with Rossiter's guide. I ran the first pitch all the way up to the perch above the red ledge. It was a full 65M rope length. P2 was about 60 feet up to the start of the hand traverse. P3 I traveresed out (reminiscent of Rewritten) lef and then back right on easy ground to belay in a niche with a small tree. P4 I went out right to some dihedrals and pulled a small bulge and ran it out all the way to the top. Great pitch with a ton of nice climbing. I found the whole climb easily protected except for the last pitch which was more fun to enjoy the climbing than stopping to place gear anyways.
Aug 27, 2003
BTW-I wanna mention that the huge block you'd REALLY want to use below the roof on P1 is gonna pull right out soon. 'Careful.
Jul 2, 2003
Wow! That rappel issue sure got a lot of 1s and 0s! Bob Cando-take a rest! If you're gonna make a point, you can do it civilly, or you can do it somewhere besides this site. I don't come here to get your extended opinions...delivered quite pompously, I might add. ('Had to get that off my chest. 'Sorry.) For those who just can't wait to get to the Mtn Sun for a Java Porter, the first two pitches can be linked with a 60, as can the last two...(although watch that rope drag. "It's a bummer, man.") Myke-good to know that 2/3 link well, too. I'll try that next time. I'd get to the Sun even quicker! I found the next-to-last pitch to be a bit run-out and it asked for some thoughtful and 'creative' placements. File somewhere between "Urghh" and "S". Fun, though! PS, regrettably-My 2 cents on the rap 'discussion': If you do choose the East Slabs, bring all yer stuff with ya. They'll take you far away from the base of the route. Also, they ARE relatively dangerous but, then again, so is making eggs and toast.All in all, I gotta side with ya on this one, Bob. I like the walk-off option--it's easy to find, is not that far, and it *does* avoid any rope-sticking and rock fall potential. But, alas, to further document our sad inconsistency as people...my party rapped the D.D. today. It was freakin' hot, I was tired, and all the route were clear below. Anyway-- Enjoy the climb!
Jul 2, 2003
Wow! lots of comments. Perhaps somebody can comment on this. It is my belief the bolts that AC refers to are sanctioned by the ELDO bolt committee. It seems in recent years that a number of routes have had rap bolts installed. This seems fine to me it protects the trees that for years have been the rap anchors and are showing signs of wear and tear. I do not remember any living trees in the west chimney. There are some near the top off to one side. I once rapped the bottom 150 feet of the west chimney on the new bolts when the temp went from 45 to 32 with snow falling early last spring. The one drawback to the bolt anchors is I have seen a growing number of people who horde a route with a top-rope (mostly on the west ridge)
Jul 25, 2002
Okay, so I took Intro to Rock through Colorado Mountain School last weekend, and this was what my guide, Mark Hammond, took me on! Never been climbing in my life.... I lost my nerve at the beginning, but got over it with the help of some complete strangers on a parallel route, who took the time to talk me through a tough part (for me). I really appreciated that. Once I got going though, it was a total gas! By the time I was done with this climb, my confidence and enthusiasm soared. I can't wait to try this new sport some more. Oh, about the route- I don't know what to say, as this was my first time. Lots of loose rock to avoid kicking down on the rappel... What a view !-excerpt from swanson's arete comments
Jul 24, 2002
From the top of the Zot Face, the West Chimney raps seemed like a logical descent since they are, I dunno, 100 feet away from the top of the climb. I've done the East Slabs descent also, and that is definitely a good choice. I apologize to the hordes of other climbers who were starting up routes while we were rapping down (oh, that's right, there weren't any). I think people can flame all they want, but as long as there are fixed rap anchors in the West Chimney, even "gumbies" like me, who obviously can't find their ass with two hands and a flashlight, will spy the anchors and rap down. In addition, said gumbies, assuming they can read and have enough dough to purchase an Eldo climbing guide, might think that the West Chimney is an established rap route. I, for one, will make an effort to use the other descent routes in the future, but as many people have mentioned in their posts there is tremendous rockfall potential from many of the routes in the area, whether gumbies are rapping down the West Chimney or not. If you are looking for Eldo climbs with low rockfall hazard, I'd avoid these routes, or get up early and be the first party there.
Jul 24, 2002
Bob D. - Thanks for filling in a vital link to this story. I had never known who was killed that day, however, I was descending the East slabs shortly after Robin was killed on them. My partner and I picked up a full rack of stoppers and Friends near the large block. We turned them in to the Ranger station and waited for two weeks. When the rack was not reclaimed, my partner claimed it. I don't know if would have any sentimental value at this point, and I'm not even sure that he still has it, however, it might be possible to track it down if you or Waugh were interested.
Jul 24, 2002
Upon finishing all climbs in the area (Rewritten, Zot Face, Great Zot, Swanson Arete, Yellow Spur, Green Spur, the list goes on), I have found it quite convenient and easy to scramble north along the ridge (my god it's a harrowing 2nd class walk over some boulders where you might actually use your hands a wee bit, and then down a gully, so hard, so hard [please excuse mass sarcasm]), and then down the third class gully. I've done it mid-winter, ground covered with ice AND snow. If you get down the first part of the gully scramble and you don't like it, go up and right (descender's right, climber's left) on the big gravel ledge to an even easier scramble down. I have never seen anyone do a rap down the West Chimney except during the onset of a lightning storm, which has in fact even been done by myself after getting halfway up the Swanson Arete only to see a bolt hit the top. The fact remains that when climbers are above people rocks tend to hit heads. Wear a helmet, yes, but also respect the mass crowds that gather to climb these moderate routes. Almost every time except the time I ran into lightning and the time in the winter I have scrambled down the gully to find another group gearing up for a climb on one of these lines as well as a group already on one. It's a popular area, and most people are learning, so don't feel it's worth it to invest full blown days going to RMNP, but also don't want to get jumbled at belay stations like the West Redgarden is a local small crag. Oh yeah, and once in the dark I used the Yellow Spur raps, and those are incredibly easy to find and do. peace
Jul 24, 2002
The easiest and fastest way to descend from The Great Zot or Rewritten area is to hike to the north until you find an easy 3rd class down climb. I climbed Rewritten one winter morning with my partner and there were two of our friends in front of us. When my partner and I reached the top it was dumping snow, so we quickly scrambled north and then back to the base of the climb only to see our friends (who were extremely experienced climbers but didn't know the downclimb to the north) rapping the West Chimney. They were quite cold and we were nice and warm from the down climb and we made it back 5 minutes before them. This descent gets you back to the base just as fast as rapping but is much safer. I don't know how easy it would be to scramble from the Yellow Spur or Swanson Arete area, but I will find out. I have found that most rocks come down from climbers while on route and not while rapping. ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET and if you are only hanging out - do it under an overhang. When you are on route BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL OF LOOSE ROCKS. See my comments on Rewritten. Casey Bernal
Jul 23, 2002
This is a fun route. We climbed the Zot face at the top (I think), though I never found the 8+ section Rossiter mentions in his book. After doing the spectacularly exposed hand traverse at the start of pitch 4, I traversed right on small ledges and holds, up a flake, and belayed at a ledge with a small tree (this is the tree all by itself in the middle of the face). From here I traversed right about 15 feet, then climbed up a dihedral. From there I climbed thin flakes and face holds, trending to the right, climbed over a flake with holds on both sides, and came back left, ending up at a small, exposed ledge with a very small tree. This is the belay shown in the book, but the climbing didn't fit the route description exactly. There weren't any bad runouts, and the climbing wasn't too hard, maybe 5.7 in a couple of spots, but mostly easier. The big exposure and continuously steep climbing are a treat, though. We rapped down the West Chimney with one 60M rope. You could rap it all with five raps with no downclimbing.
Jul 21, 2002
We climbed this a few weeks ago, with the recommended Zot Face finish. The belay at the end of the zig-zagging traverse pitch isn't all that hanging (there's a small, sloping ramp or if you climb down it a great ledge), and there's great pro for it. We are pretty sure we missed the last picth, going too far left and climbing the left facing dihedral just left of the Zot face instead. So, be wary, when looking from the top of the fourth whilst at the small tree belay, make sure you find the face just right of this left facing dihedral and you will have it.
Jul 10, 2002
I have done this route before, but on Sunday I did it again only this time on the traverse pitch instead of going up the crack, I continued to go left and around and up that other inside corner up to the belay ledge. Is this a pitch on the Green Spur?
Dec 5, 2001
I didn't find the Zot face either. Faced with short days of November there was no time to look around - I'll assume it was off to the right further and not obvious. Other than finishing on chunks, the route was great. Pitch's 1-3 we're all fun stuff.
Nov 12, 2001
We linked pitches 2 and 3 (as shown on the photo) and minimized rope drag by not meandering so far right. However, turning the roof I definitely felt to be a 5.8ish move; committing, and an ankle sprainer if not worse if you slip. I believe the 3rd pitch, the exhilirating leftward traverse, can also be continued another 30 feet further than shown on the drawing. Continue the traverse around the big tree (5 feet after you would break up and right for zot face) for another 10-15 feet. At a fixed pin, the move up aiming for the giant tree 40 feet above you. Belay there (or better yet, just left and behind it - the stance at the tree doesn't look comfortable). Then finish up the ramp that you are on, or the face directly above you. The big RF dihedral to the left is supposedly 5.8, but looks burly and wide - next time. A really fun climb - especially with the two cute girls from New York that were climbing Rewritten right next to us. I never did get the 45 minute backrub I was promised for all the great beta we gave them...
Sep 3, 2001
I found part of the fun on this route to be the adventure or routefinding on the Zot Face. I recall meandering my way up the face being careful to avoid loose rock. It's runnout, but it is fun climbing, and worth doing of one feels really comfortable leading at the grade.
Aug 1, 2001
We missed the face as well. I guess you have to break up and right from the middle of the fourth pitch to climb the Zot Face pitch. This would require a hanging belay. We climbed the whole left-angling crack to a terrible ledge with tons of loose blocks and a tree. The last pitch was a runout face, but I suppose not the "Zot Face"
Jan 1, 2001
When I climbed this route, we had trouble finding the Zot Face. From the tree at the end of the 4th pitch, Rossiter says something like "step right, then go up". In reality you must go quite a ways to the right, at least 25 ft I would say. We went straight up and missed the pitch.
Jan 1, 2001
- Green Hornet, The
My buddy and I both bailed off that first pitch due to hard climbing over uninspiring gear below the first bolt. Too bad because it's a stellar pitch (we did TR it). Now I think I know what the "key placement" is (not the stopper 20 feet below that Ross mentioned; the gear he thought wasn't worth fiddling with...and he may be right), but we didn't have that piece of gear at the time. Still, I'm not sure how excited I'll be to climb above that piece in the future--pretty thin gear, and a long way from what I'd consider solid gear. The second (last) pitch is great though! Don't miss that one. It's maybe 5.10a and makes a spectacular finish for Green Spur.
Jun 11, 2013
This is a nice addition to the area. Before the first bolt, the climbing is 11a and you can place good small/medium gear. Lowe Balls would be nice to have but not mandatory. The key gear is about 7 feet below the first bolt - a blue alien and two small offset brass nuts just below below that. The second pitch is also very good.
Jul 16, 2012
The link above didn't work; here's a better link to the ACE application with a pic of the route: ACE Application
Apr 22, 2011
It's a long way (20' or so) from the "key" placement (a good stopper) to the 1st bolt, and you will encounter crux climbing over less-than-ideal stone over that stretch. Above the stopper and below the bolt, I didn't see much in the way of gear that was worth fiddling with. Given that, I think that an otherwise worthy climb will not become popular enough to clean up from a 2 star to a 3 star route. That's too bad, because it's really a nice, inspired addition.
Mar 21, 2011
Maybe "Eldo 5.10", pretty thin. Felt one more bolt could have been placed lower on the crux. Fun, spicy, exposed feeling climbing. Some of the thin edges are brittle and will clean in time. Additional description: Variation of P4 of Green Spur. Pass the big roof and instead of climbing the standard large dihedral/corner section on the right, climb the arete/face on the left/straight up to the dead tree belay.
Mar 14, 2011
The ACE application shows a picture of the route.
Dec 21, 2010
The 5.10 rating is a guess. It felt hard, but it was snowing and blowing like Crazy during the FA, and my feet were wooden. Edit to add: After climbing it again in better weather, I'm giving it 5.11b.
Nov 16, 2010
- Green Slab Direct
Dang spring storms! Left bail cordelette and quicklink on tree at ledge between 2nd and 3rd pitch. From here with a 70m rope rap, one can get to the anchor chains for pitch 1-Green Slab Original start (left of Darkness to Dawn).
Jun 2, 2017
Thought it was a pretty hard 9 (even for Eldo). Great climb with excellent gear throughout!
Jun 19, 2015
We accidentally did pitches 3-4 of this today after we missed the start of pitch 4 of Green Spur (traversed too far left). It was fun! I thought it much easier than pitch 2 of Green Spur.
Aug 18, 2012
I first did a precursor to this route on the Green Slab with Bob Culp in either November 1960, or January 1961. It had snowed in Eldorado the night before and we climbed in mountaineering boots. We basically took the easiest possible line that simply went "up." We stayed fairly far left on the slab proper, sometimes out to the arete forming the left edge of the slab. We were continually being cascaded with bits of falling ice and some sloppy snow, which made it into an "epic climb." Bob noticed some of the neat features of the wall that were holding some snow on small ledges, and came back again with my roomate Henry a few weeks later to establish the "Direct." Done by the easiest possible line, we thought it was probably 5.6 at that time. The descent was nightmarish coming down icy gullys and slabs. My assessment today, is we were doing solid 5.8 climbing on wet and slush covered holds in boots. I have subsequently done the route 5 more times by several variations, including the now-standard Rossiter described route, and it felt trivial by comparison to our icy epic! Overall, still one of my all-time favorite climbs in the canyon.
Sep 13, 2010
The funny thing about the descent for this and other routes like Rewritten is that it can drop just as much if not MORE rock careening down the talus slope. Who hasn't caused some kind of a rock to dislodge while hiking down? Who hasn't seen one cartwheeling way into the air to possibly bean someone on the trail below you? Man, that is just the way it is in this area.
Jun 28, 2009
Good climb, especially if you're into homicide -- there are some real murderous hollow flakes on this one. It seemed OK as long as you are careful and check every hold, especially on the last pitch. I traversed right (just before the crack ended on the third pitch) at an undercling and moved over to the right facing dihedral / ramp. This move was easier than some of the other moves along the crack. The route seemed easier than most Eldo .9s I've done, but I would still call it a .9. Maybe next time I should try the .9+ left option that seems so popular.
Nov 2, 2008
Super sweet route with no crowds, classic Eldo stone, and just a good time when all else is standing room only. Do it in 2 long pitches, break it up into more, just a fun route....
Aug 24, 2008
Loved the route myself, but as mentioned in the route description some questions about what I actually climbed came up. On P3 I left the belay, climbed up the crack on the right all the way to its terminus (noticing the pin/bolt out left lower down), and that's where the uncertainty came in. At the top of the crack where it gets rather thin (green Alien), I was unsure where to go. I ended up moving up a bit more, finding funky combo of undercling on the left and hold high and right, then making a delicate foot move to the left. I saw the fixed Metolius cam, but did not move all the way over to it. Instead moved up, placed the thinnest RP on my rack, up a bit more, and then slightly right until reaching the left-leaning ramp/dihedral and feeling secure for the first time in 10+ feet. From the other comments, it sounds like I might not be the first person to do this variation. Another question, where do you get into the Rossiter 9+ variation as indicated in the topo? When I looked at it while climbing seemed sketchy to get left into the bottom.
May 13, 2008
I thought this route was well worth doing. The first pitch is quite good and the finger-crack pitch is superb. FWIW, I found it most natural to follow the crack to its terminus (small brass) and traverse slightly left using a series of small underclings and small but positive sidepulls, this deposits you on the face via some balancy and tangy climbing - at this point the "fixed Metolius" was well below my feet and left; the climbing holds your attention until you are in the R-facing corner.
Apr 7, 2008
As done in 4 pitches, I found parts of pitch 2 and the entire length of pitch 4 to be horrible! I enjoy 'adventure' routes (read as: not too often done, with some dubious rock, lichen, no chalk and requiring some route-finding skills), but this route had way too many hollow and loose looking blocks, most of them perched above your belayer's head. The fourth pitch was a jumble of death blocks waiting to fall! Unfortunately, I really liked the 3rd pitch. Fun, finger crack climbing and in your face for the direct finish. However, I don't think that could offset the feeling of dread I had for a large section of the climb, in case one of the, at least, 50 large blocks I had to pull on were to come off.
Oct 15, 2006
I did this route on 8/20. Not as good as I was expecting. I did the route in 2 pitches like Tony suggested, and that was great because it packs a lot of climbing into those 2 pitches. I can see if done as 3 it would diminish the climb. With that said, holy loose rock! The first pictch had a lot of hollow sounds loose rock and flakes. The second pitch was better but only the crux section. I did not see a pin but climbed up the great 8 crack into the 9 finger crack, and then when it abruptly ended I moved slightly right into the ramp. If this crack was longer, it would be a 5 star classic - as it is you feel cheated of something great. The ramp was more of the same from the first pitch - loose, easy, climbing on hollow flakes. 3 stars for length and exposure. 1 star for loose rock and hollow flakes. 2 stars overall
Aug 22, 2006
I climbed this last weekend after finding two groups of slow climbers massed at the first belay of the Yellow Spur, and more groups at Rewritten and Zot. So, using the trusty guidebook, I see this climb...never having given it a thought before this time. I was skeptical looking up at it, but things turned out much better than the glance from the ground inferred. Like most before me, I did get a bit lost on the 3rd pitch where the crack tapers off. I did think about going straight up, actually made a few moves and became a bit concerned I was going off route, so I downclimbed and headed left towards a fixed Metolius, up about 15', and then did a no hands traverse right. My guess is that this not the correct way but it was interesting. Overall, it is a nice climb.
Aug 14, 2006
The route is one darn fine route, albeit with a flaw or two. But then again, find me a flawless 460 foot climb anywhere... The route goes in 2 pitches with a 70 Meter rope, the bottom to the large ledge as 70M (nothing to spare) and then on to the top in about 67 meters. The 'crux' where you are forced left (9+) or right (9) also goes head-on at 5.10 S. There is a dubious hold involved in this straight-on [variation], so place good gear and check your head before casting off.
Jul 5, 2004
Climbed this route today and enjoyed it. I combined the last two pitches with about five feet of rope to spare. The 'discontinuous crack system' is not too bad to figure out, the pro is there and the climbing is fun. My beta for the last two pitches: From the big ledge, follow the crack system to the end of the cracks. Traverse right and get onto the ramp. Follow the ramp and climb to the tree with rotten webbing and belay there. Climb to the top. The hardest move felt 5.9 with good pro. The Dark Horse awaits you my good friends...
May 29, 2004
For what its worth-- I found another pin to the right of the roof on p1 (see photo below). Using double ropes made for zero rope drag, and the pitch felt nicely sewed up...
Mar 31, 2004
We did the whole route in two pitches with a 60m rope and about 30' of easy (5.6-5.7) simul-climbing on each pitch. I highly recommend doing it this way as each leader gets a good pitch and you don't get stuck at any hanging belays, only big ledges. Definitely a good route, but it does have its share of choss.
Jan 19, 2004
The traverse right on the third pitch was a delight... a few crimpers and good smears to a sharp edge out right and fairly well-protected by a good stopper placement in the crack, the crux for me being a position challenge about 20 ft. earlier. Great pitch!
Sep 29, 2003
A blue #3 Lowe ball nut also works well to protect the traverse near the end of the third pitch.
Sep 28, 2003
I got a number 2 Camalot stuck just after the first belay last weekend (6.27). I thought I was a bit off route, but I guess I wasn't. Last night, I rapped down to work it loose, and it was gone. If anybody picked it up, I wouldn't mind getting it back - thanks. karlwnichols@yahoo.com
Jul 3, 2003
We didn't see the stopper (although I'm pretty sure Joseffa, who led this one, placed a stopper in the same small crack). From there we did the tricky traverse to the right and then up the left-angling ramp.
May 20, 2002
Pitch 3 and 4 as described above can be combined into a spectacular 200' pitch to the top. I think a petition to the Eldo Committy to change the name of this route to "Myke's Stopper Slab" is in order, I'll sign
Apr 28, 2002
After I got to the fixed piece (Myke's Stopper-not a pin) on the 3rd pitch, I went right to a small undercling and over to the ramp (NTB), about one or two .9ish moves up and right. Certainly one of the best .9 pitches in Eldo. Steep, long (~185 feet to the tree, 30 feet from the top), and mostly crack! Good winter climb if the sun's out.
Feb 18, 2002
I think that P3 in the book is somewhere to the left of where everyone ends up. I found myself at "Myke's Stopper" confused as hell and wondering where the hell to go. I ended up doing a funky traverse left (it felt harder than .9) and then back right again when I found some chalk higher up. Anyway, next time I'll experiment to the left.
Feb 9, 2002
Clipped the fixed stopper, but didn't ever find a pin either.What a superb pitch though-nice climbing, pro when you need it and just really enjoyable. We did the top half of green slab after grandmothers (bottom wasn't in the sun yet) and really enjoyed the combo. The walkoff is really straight forward, well traveled and fast-I wouldn't bother to rap.
Nov 12, 2001
"Myke's Stopper" - I love it! My legacy is complete; just add my name to that list that has Ament, Kor, and Northcutt on it.... ;-)
Oct 29, 2001
We tried to find the Fixed pin. It doesn't exist. The pitch got thinner and thinner and thinner until we hit Myke's stopper. Then of course it evaporated. The 60 degree ramp to the right of the obvious hand crack affords some decent pro. We set an anchor 10 ft above & to the right of the fixed nut. Plenty of space in that crack for a #3 Camalot, big blue tricam, and a #1 Camalot. Sweet pitch otherwise though. Nice combination of face moves and crack climbing. Good pro with nuts in the crack. Take lots of small Aliens otherwise for the upper crack, but stoppers seemed to fit better.
Oct 29, 2001
Is it too much to ask to walk off the route, particularly when it's straightforward and doesn't take long? Kristo's description matches what I did, as well as one of the possibilities in Rossiter. Seems pretty well-protected with gear about 5 feet left.
Sep 25, 2001
Thanks for the now fixed piece. We enjoyed clipping it today. At the point where the fixed pin is supposed to be, didnt find that ? I guess we got to the dissipating crack and then went left and up, just right of the arete to belay at the dead tree, a long pitch at approx. 180' feet from where we started, the description is not one of Rossiter's best. If doing it again, just trust the gear, now well below your feet and continue up to easier ground from the fixed piece. A decent route altogether though, perhaps not 3 star, because of 2nd and last pitch, also the rappels down, what a mess on those trees ? Is it too much to ask for bolted stations, we could do without the 500 slings on EVERY ONE of the trees.
Sep 25, 2001
Congrats on the whipper! I found that as i neared the top of the crack it dissipated a bit through a small bulge.here i stepped about five feet right (5.9) into a ramp-like right facing corner which lead right up to the belay. From there i went to the dead tree, and then straight up the face to the top (in two short pitches).
Aug 1, 2001
- Green Slab-Original Route
- Green Sleeves
Ahhh. Better.
May 14, 2015
Greg German and I replaced the old bolt on the crux pitch with modern hardware today.
May 14, 2015
- Green Spur, The
Obscure variation: After pitch 3 eases, instead of going for Rebuffat's Arete, run up and belay at the first BIG tree smack dab in the middle of the gully. Traverse from the tree directly left onto the left wall of the gully, and follow a crack system upward, navigating past a bush in the crack then over a ledge or two and some blocky terrain on up over the top. Maybe 5.9. Not as classic as the arete but worthwhile to me.
May 26, 2017
You can get down in 2 raps with a 70m or 3 with a 60m with no shenanigans. From the anchor above the eye bolt, rappel to climber's right being careful not to run the rope across the loose rock. Run the ropes through a small notch on the ramp to your right. About 95' down, you'll see a rap anchor next to a chimney. From there, you can rap to the ground with a 70m - the rope won't quite reach the ground, but you'll reach a small ledge about 8 feet off the ground with an easy scramble down. With a 60m, you'll have to stop at the intermediate anchor (you can't miss it) and make a 3rd rappel. KNOT THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPE.
Jun 21, 2014
I'm just posting this hoping someone can clear up a question that has been bugging me for a long time. I've seen the route description several times, but beyond the 5.9 crux of P2, I really don't recognize much of the climb (it's been 54 years since Dave and I did the climb). We belayed right after the crux. So to me that would be the start of P3. I climbed 50 or 60 ft of easy but very loose rock in places*, then made a short, maybe 10 or so ft, traverse across a fairly exposed wall to the left that I used a sling on an army angle to negotiate, and ended up after a few feet on a large ledge (Red Ledge?). The remainder of the climb to the top of the spur was easy climbing - really roped scrambling. So my question is: is the short left traverse part of the current route or is my memory so poor that I've simply forgotten what that part of the climb was really like? near the top I pulled off a large block that cut one of my 3/8 gold line ropes and could easily have killed Dave Dornan if he hadn't been able to dodge around around a corner to his left.
Apr 24, 2014
Help! my climbing partner broke his ankle last night at the start of the 2nd pitch, and I had to leave some anchor gear at the top of the first pitch. There was an old nut already stuck in there that we clipped into, then I left another nut and a hex, wiregate biners on all 3, a runner to tie it all off, and a locking biner. My email address is shockleyalex@gmail.com, please give me a shout if you're able to grab it! Feel free to drop it off at the ranger station, or if you live in Boulder I'd be more than happy to come to you to pick it up (and drop off a case of beer of your choice). And in case anyone is wondering - my climbing partner was totally fine other than the ankle. His last piece of pro held and we were able to get to the ground safely, though he wasn't able to walk and it was ~7:15 by the time we got down so we ended up calling rescue services (see pictures). BIG shout out to any RMR or BFD people that read this post, they were unbelievably fast and responsive. The fall was at ~6:45pm, we called 911 at ~7:30pm, RMR was there shortly after 8, and we were back in our car and on the way to the hospital by 10:00pm. Thank you! RMR and BFD first arriving on the scene. Prepping for the tyrolean traverse.
Apr 23, 2014
Incredible climb. Not sure why the description recommends quitting after 2 pitches. That's a waste in my opinion. Pitch 3 was GREAT, pulling the roof is fun. Exciting exposure, committing moves but relatively easy. You don't get those combinations many places. Finish with Rebuffet's Arete! I combined the first 2 pitches, recommended unless you have a beginner leader wanting to lead the first short chill pitch. Pitch 2 is stiff! and fun! Save some small cams for the top of the dihedral, I didn't.... Belaying the third pitch can be a challenge, we traversed around the block and belayed by the tree, Eventually the belayer climbed up and belayed on top of the rock. This is much more optimal for rope drag and communication with your belayer.
Mar 8, 2014
I was up on this yesterday and the weather/exposure was beautiful. Once again I didn't do the correct beta on this route and ended up making it about as hard as Tagger's P2. Instead of getting to the great horizontal jug below the roof, I traversed at the undercling along marginal crimps. I thought it seemed hard for 5.9. Either way, it's nice to have some small cams/stoppers/RPs for this one. Pretty cool route.
Jan 21, 2013
Really fun climbing, Great moves and pretty good gear for the crux. Linked p1 and p2 for a really long pitch. Only brought a 70m rope and rappelled off to the south to catch some anchors for two more rappels to the ground. Not the most ideal way to get down because of loose rocks when you pull the rope. It worked for us.
Jun 26, 2012
Not a bad climb. But I wasn't all that impressed. Certainly felt solid for the grade and had a couple cool moves up to and around the roof. Small wires were helpful here. The lower part is awkward, but secure, if you stay true to the left crack. Much easier if you stem between the cracks. With all the parties above knocking off loose rock on us, we decided to rap off the bolt anchor instead of continue. I haven't climbed in Eldo much, but those upper pitches look like complete choss. This area is not high on my list of places to return to.
May 29, 2012
As an historical note: the FFA was done by Larry Dalke, ~1965.
Feb 25, 2012
Perhaps I was a bit jaded in my earlier comments, since I'd already made one descent from the Great Zot that same day. One's opinion can be influenced by being hot, tired, and thirsty. Rebuffat's Ridge is a worthy thing to climb.... However, the very loose rock on the next pitch is not especially enjoyable, so yes I still recommend just climbing the very excellent dihedral pitch. I avoid loose rock whenever possible, but if you love loose crap...go climb on the Rotwand. I've done that, too....
Jan 2, 2012
Did this climb back in 1993 with Tim Topf (RIP--a good guy--miss him). Amazing that he didn't climb much and cranked right up the thing. Back to the point: This is one of the best climbs I've done, anywhere. Possibly because it was a surprise, picked it at random out of guidebook cause we had an afternoon to burn. The variety of moves on steep ground makes this route well worth it. Best 5.9 in Eldo? Hell, right up there with best 5.9s anywhere, on par with CPF in The Valley.
Oct 25, 2011
Led pitches 1 and 2 as one with a 70m. One of my first clean 5.9 leads. The giant block on the 3rd pitch before pulling the roof is not very secure. I'd hate to be around when that thing goes. Pitches 3-5 are not to be missed!
Aug 30, 2011
You're wrong, Rodger, so wrong :D The upper pitches are great, only join Rewritten at the very last pitch (if you actually do the route, see description above), and are worth walking off OR rappelling the Dirty Deed chimney.
Jul 2, 2011
I'd suggest rappelling after "the pitch." The extra climbing above, especially having done Rewritten before isn't worth the added hassle of getting down the "walk off" to the North.
Mar 12, 2011
Fantastic climb. Maybe a bit harder than any one pitch on Yellow Spur? Still though, I liked Yellow Spur better.
Jul 31, 2010
I would argue that it takes skill, and PRODUCES patients!
Oct 6, 2009
Ron, you're exactly right. I deal with loose rock a lot, spending my after work climbs in the Big Thompson Canyon, trad climbing here take's skill and patience. The third pitch of Green Spur, will slowly deteriorate (the big 900 lb. boulder people lean on, and a few jugs are more than suspect). If the route looks unsafe, be smart and wise. I'd put an S for sketchy on the P3, but it is one of the coolest roofs I've climbed.
Oct 6, 2009
Craig, Glad You came out alive after all that and great to see you bouldering with your wife the other day in Eldo. Edit: Dude!!! Thanks for sharing that with us. See you out there! Chris.
Oct 30, 2008
Definitely add the first two pitches together. Lead all the way to the Red Ledge (Eye bolt).
Oct 25, 2008
Climbed Green Spur (all pitches) onto the Rebuffet Arete finish. Loved the first two pitches of GS, but the rock was crap on the 3rd pitch IMO. Glad to have ticked that pitch, but I won't be back for that pitch. There are huge blocks, integral to the climb, that will fall off that pitch eventually - no matter how much caution is exercised - and someone else is going to get hurt. Craig glad you're OK and thankfully didn't get more injured.
Oct 15, 2008
I think the skills Ron is referring to involves anticipating the complex physics of loose rock and the way it gets dislodged and how gravity affects it once the rock is dislodged, some call this juggling. Clowns and street performers are best equipped to deal with the loose rock in Eldo...and around the world. Which is who you mostly see in Eldo. Once one has gained this important knowkledge, actually, it's a talent that can't really be learned, but is developed from, well, we're not sure if it's nature or nurture, which brings us back to nature and loose rock and being prepared for it. But, all seriousness aside, that spot has been super dangerous for a long time, and it's a good thing I wasn't caught in Craig's situation with my lack of math skills.
Apr 18, 2008
Craig, sounds like a scary incident that would've been difficult to avoid even if one had the skills, "sensitivity", vast experience and wisdom of some of the people who post on this site. Climbing is dangerous and there are just some variables beyond our control. It's cool that everything turned out ok for you.
Mar 2, 2008
Dealing with loose rock is a skill every climber needs in his/her repertoire. If not in Eldorado, then in other areas in Colorado and around the world. Rocky Mountain National Park, The Garden of the Gods, El Potrero Chico, the Dolomites, ... Climbing with sensitivity and awareness is important; testing holds, pulling gently in the right direction, tiptoeing around loose dinner plates. These skills are developed through practice, not avoidance.
Mar 2, 2008
Ron, I find your suggestion pedantic and a bit hilarious. I'd recommend people strongly discount your advice on clambering across the choss strewn routes of Eldo in the hope of avoiding the chop on other routes in Eldo with loose rock. There's is always a small probability your number is going to come up and some objective hazard is going to ruin your day or end your life. I don't see how your recommendation changes that. Whatever you can learn from climbing loose rock, I suspect you can learn right there on the third pitch of the Green Spur. The problem with the Green Spur is that it's considered an ultra classic route. In fact, Rossiter gave it top ten status in his guide. While that might be true of the first two pitches, I don't think that's true for the rest of the route and a nice alternative with the Rewritten finish or rapping off exists. So, it may not be worth the additional objective hazard unless, you're specifically after that in which case, I'd recommend the The Rotwand. Additionally, I agree a helmet is a great idea and picnicking under these routes is not.
Mar 2, 2008
Loose rock is a fact of life in Eldorado; Green Spur is but one of many examples. Red Ledge has lots of loose rock, as does the chimney on Rewritten and the ledge above the crux dihedral on Over the Hill. Peanuts Wall has lots of loose rock; Heavy Weather is another example. Rather than avoid it, learn to cope with it. I suggest that climbers wanting to learn how to deal with loose rock climb The Roof Wall, Northumberland Crack, and The Hot Spur. After climbing these lines, you will be well prepared to climb safely past the loose rock on the third pitch of Green Spur. And wear your helmet when gearing up in the Green Spur, Rewritten, Great Zot area; especially on crowded weekends.
Mar 2, 2008
It's been another harsh winter in Boulder, so things that have been solid in the past probably aren't anymore. I thought I'd repost this from the conditions comments to here as a poignant reminder to be careful out there and to note that the third pitch of Green Spur is loose and best avoided. From July 5th, 2006.... My partner and I went up to climb Yellow Spur, but since it was busy we decided to do the Green Spur instead. We both climb harder than that and have many years of climbing in Eldo under our belts. I probably have 20 days in Eldo so far this year and have done the Green Spur at least twice before. I am a pretty cautious climber and certainly aware of the dangers of loose rock in Eldo. My partner led the first 2 pitches as one pitch and then we moved the belay around the big boulder on the Red Ledge. I was starting the short corner on the third pitch of the Green Spur and my feet were about 5 feet over the ledge. I didn't have any gear in since there's not really anything worth while to put in there. I was being very careful because the large flakes in the corner that my hands were on were obviously loose. I was stemming between the left wall and a large block in the corner. I was contemplating how to move into the corner above without pulling on anything loose or pulling too hard. Just then the huge rock my right foot was on gave way. It was about the size of a big screen TV and apparently went all the way to the creek after it fell. I decked about 5 feet on to the belay ledge and for a second I thought "I'm going to be fine". Then a bunch of rock that was behind that rock fell on my leg and that quickly changed to "I think I'm going to die". Next, I felt stupid even though there's nothing I would have done differently because my wife is currently pregnant and I have a 21-month-old daughter. So, I should not be out having climbing accidents. My partner was a real hero. He quickly assessed my injuries and bandaged up my leg with his T-shirt and some slings. He was smart not to let me look at it because my leg had a 6-inch gash and my muscle was sticking out. We were pretty scared I might bleed a lot or pass out and we weren't sure what the damage was. I could wiggle my toes without pain so we were pretty sure my leg wasn't broken. I was surprise that was all that happened given how much rock came down. We tandem rappelled off the tree atop Grandmother's Challenge hoping to get to the Darkness til Dawn anchor. Unfortunately you end up hanging in space nowhere near it. We managed to get down a little further and find some slings around a chockstone. We backed that up with a cam and nut and then he lowered me to the ground. It was nice to be on the ground, but we still had a ways to go to get to the car. Waiting around for SAR didn't seem like a good idea given the bleeding. We put my T-shirt over his T-shirt with some slings to keep the wound as clean as possible. Then to get down to the car, I scooted down on my butt and my partner gave me a fireman's carry. Finally some people came along and we got some water, tape and an ace bandage from them. With that we were able to bandage up the wound properly. They helped us along and carried our gear down to the road which took about half an hour. Kudos to Tim and the other guys who helped out. I really appreciate their help! Our round trip time car to car was about 2 hours. Once we got to the hospital they cleaned out the wound and took some X rays. I was very lucky that the rock missed my femur and knee cap (and for that matter head and chest). It was a very sharp rock apparently because my muscle had a clean slice. I got "innumerable" stitches to sew the muscle back in its place and put the layers of skin back together and 11 staples to close it up. I'm on bed rest with pain killers for the next week, but should be back to walking in a couple of weeks and back to normal in 6-8 weeks. I have been climbing for 18 years and have 2 other accidents to my credit. One was a soloing accident from youthful hubris, the other was decking before the first bolt when a foothold gave way in Boulder Canyon. This was one of the worst and least preventable. We both feel there wasn't much different I could have done except stayed home that day and the rock that gave way is the kind of thing you step on in Eldo all the time. Being safe and careful only gets you so far. Sometimes you're the last person to stand on something dubious. It sucks to be last in that case. When that happens, the most important thing is the partner you're with. I'm glad that my partner had good first aid and rescue skills and the courage and mind to pull off our rescue without a hitch.
Mar 2, 2008
An easier variation bypasses the bombay slot and takes the little roof and left-facing corner to the right; it goes at about 5.8. It merges with the straight-up line a bit above the bombay slot. I find it more fun than going up the wide slot. Extend the runners to keep down rope drag and you'll be fine.
Nov 4, 2007
"I found the crux of the first pitch (the body crack thing) to be more difficult than the layback roof crux." Me too, Kyle. I barely redpointed the route today. The arching dihedral above the pin went down smoothly compared to that wide, flared section below. I got my arm all the way in the back of that flare right where it has a little roof thing. Once crammed and jammed in there, placing the cam I wanted above was just a mess. The carabiner kept slipping into the slot, preventing me from clipping it. If I could have kept my hand jam and gotten my body out of there I would have been fine. Gotta be a better way of doing those moves, I know.
Nov 3, 2007
I found the crux of the first pitch (the body crack thing) to be more difficult than the layback roof crux.
Oct 21, 2007
Climbed the Green Spur yesterday and it was awesome fun! Two comments: 1. I highly recommend combining P1 and P2. It will leave you with less than 5 feet on a 60 meter rope. This is the best pitch of the climb. 2. The pitch starting from the tree atop Grandmother's Challenge is incredibly loose rock. I was surprised to find so much rock of such poor quality on a classic route. Be careful. If you pull something off, it will likely go crashing down on those at the base. Still a great route though. Enjoy!
Apr 16, 2007
Curse you evil Green Spur! Talus Food Crack vs. the Green Spur (P1-2)?
Aug 16, 2006
Reiterating what Ron stated (kind of).. After getting to Red Ledge just do Rewritten, you'll be much happier. The remaining "Green Spur" pitch(es) aren't really that fun anyway and lots of potential to knock rocks off. If Rewritten is full, there are many other opportunities, too.
Jul 24, 2006
The major areas of danger on the Green Spur: First two pitches to Red Ledge. These pitches are fairly clean, but they lie directly below the chimney pitch of Rewritten which has lots of loose rock. Rockfall from above is a real hazard. Third pitch above Red Ledge. This pitch is above the tree on Grandmother's Challenge, and has a lot of loose rock in the first 30 feet. This is where the recent accident occurred. This pitch can be bypassed by doing the chimney pitch and traverse pitch of Rewritten, but see above.
Jul 1, 2006
BIG rockfall off the G.Spur today! Two guys were climbing and apparently one pulled a LARGE block off, gashing his leg pretty bad. Sounded like a boxcar coming down the cliff. We were on Yellow Spur and my partner saw the rock the size of a bigscreen TV explode off the cliff and continue crashing downhill until almost hitting water at the base of the approach climb. Parkies said they would be investigating stability of the cliff. Kudos to the other climbers who helped get the injured party down, and wishes for a speedy recovery. BE CAREFUL ON THE GREEN SPUR==LOOSE ROCK ABOUNDS!
Jul 1, 2006
This route stands out for several reasons. First, I re-emphasize about the dangers of loose rock from above. I was leading, starting into the offwidth, and sensed a whoosh go past my head. A fraction of a second later, a tremendous WHACK! I called out to Bob, belaying me at the first stance. Fearing the worst, I called out again, but no answer. Someone on the ground called out and Bob answered. He was Ok!, a slightly sore neck and a huge hole in the side of his helmet. Secondly, the offwidth is always a struggle for me...I haven't tried the face variation, but I like the abundant pro in the slot. Thirdly, the dihedral is stellar and always thrilling! Next, the challenging but doable overhang; the length of the route, its position; and attaining the summit of the Tower!!!
Mar 23, 2006
As of 10/2/05 there are two stoppers fixed going through the crux section (both looked pretty good). Thus, going through the crux I used the piton, a fixed stopper, another fixed stopper, and then I stepped across and set a green Alien farther up. I saw people stem through the crux section but I just laid back and it felt really good. For me, getting up the offwidth/crack was the hardest part. I was tired when I got to the piton, I had to rest for a while but after that I thought the climb was fantastic, one move just melted into the next! Definitely a must do! Also, don't forget to wear a helmet in this area, I had a dime-size rock hit my arm and a quarter-size rock hit my helmet. Be safe and please yell "rock" if you kick stuff off!
Oct 2, 2005
The first (offwidth) crux on P2 is pain in the butt with a backpack - ditch it if you can
Oct 1, 2005
The Green Sleeves climb/ variation is worth doing, and the last pitch is really cool.
Jul 24, 2004
Good movement, but the rock on P3 is sketchy. The large block needs to be trundled. Double up on the Camalots, and bring large wires to sew up the first two pitches. Good line!
Oct 26, 2003
Yellow and Green Aliens protect the arching dihedral. Continue left at the eyebolt and stay with the original route, as it gets good with an airy 5.9 move over a small roof, then up to the arete. Combine the first two pitches. Stemming, finger jamming, and face moves for five good pitches.
Oct 20, 2003
I have to agree with many of the comments previously submitted. 1. I like this better than Yellow Spur, especially when linking P1&P2, and moving to Rewritten after P3. 2. The crux pitch is STELLAR. I've done it several times, always direct through the offwidth, which isn't so bad (9+). The dihedral above is sustained 5.9 with awesome stems. Above is not runout, unless you make it, which you should if you are comfortable on 5.4 and managed to get through the 5.9 sections. 3. P3 is a one-move wonder, easy up to the roof, pull through (5.9), and cruise. Suggested link-up: DOUBLE SPUR. One person leads "block" of entire Yellow Spur, rap descent, second then leads "block" of entire Green Spur. Double your pleasure, double classic, ... double spur.
Oct 9, 2003
As many have noted, this is perhaps the finest 5.9 in Eldorado. I like to go from the ground up through the crux and belay on a good ledge just above. This allows you to watch your partner climb the crux corner and provides a great photo opportunity. The crux corner can be sewn up as follows: pin, small wired nut, blue Alien in crack on left wall, .75 Camalot at lip of undercling, yellow Alien in horizontal crack, green Alien after step across to the right, medium wired nut just before the belay ledge above the crux. The third pitch above the Grandmother's Challenge tree is excellent; be careful of loose rock in the first 30 feet.Esthetic, balancy moves up a flake, then a wild traverse right around a roof. Totally fun!
Sep 21, 2003
Great climb...one note, the step right from under the roof is down low, not up high in the roof. I got up a little too high and had to step down to gain the next face over.
Jul 12, 2003
Great route. The crux pitch is nice and strenuous, though I thought the real crux was right off the first belay getting through the offwidth (but that might have just been my technique :) ). This should definitely be done with the 5.9 roof pitch from Grandmother's Ledge. That pitch ranks up there as one of the most fun pitches I've done. If no one is on Rewritten, cut over onto it after the roof and finish with Rebuffet's arete. Otherwise, you can find lots of fun moves by using the left wall of the 'gully' as much as possible (rather than scrambling up the gully).
Sep 30, 2002
One of the finest routes in Eldorado. Be sure to do the upper pitches as well.
Aug 6, 2002
FYI: There is now a double bolt anchor at the top of the 2nd pitch just above the old eyebolt. Do not use the eyebolt unless it is backed up because it moves in it's hole.....
Jul 25, 2002
Outstanding route! The Green Spur to Green Slab Direct linkup also makes for a superb outing. Be careful when accessing the base of the Green Slab crux pitch from Grandmothers tree, though. This gully/corner is the top of Darkness till Dawn and has precariously perched blocks of all sizes. I know this is a dead horse but this is a seriously dangerous area and once you know what's above, it's unnerving to be down below.
Jul 23, 2002
Thanks Charles, sounds exciting - the offwidths really psyche me out - ie. p2 of Werks Up, p3 of Grand Giraffe and now this..ughhh
Jul 19, 2002
Just in case Justin was asking about the face to the right of the crux dihedral... I led this via the 'wide crack avoidance variation' some years ago (BURNING CHROME). It's easily toproped.
Jul 19, 2002
Jason, funny you should ask. When I did this climb about 3 and a half years ago with my brother, he led both of the variations you are asking about! Straight up off the belay is a bit awkward but didn't seem too bad following, it was over quickly. Now, moving out onto the face to the left, before the crux corner, is a different story--I remember feeling rather terrified following! There were a couple overhanging moves, but the holds were positive (although some may have been loose??) and neither of us fell. Since Pat was a neophyte 5.10 leader at the time, and I a neophyte 5.10 climber period, I couldn't imagine that it is much harder than .10-, although there isn't a whole lot of pro. I have pictures of Pat leading this variation (which, btw, he took completely by mistake--I don't know how and I was rather shocked when I got up there following), hopefully I will get off my ass and submit them someday.
Jul 19, 2002
P1 (or the combo of P1&2) - What does the offwidth go at on P1? This is the part avoided by stepping right, going up the finger crack and then stepping back left. It doesn't seem that many people go straight up on P1 through the bulge. It seems hard, I got my arm stuck, got laughed at, then decided to follow the chalk to my right. Also at the crux of the P1 P2 combo, has anybody ever pulled out onto the face at the roof instead of stepping right out of the crack? That looks like it could be sweet. - Great challenging route. FYI - from the eye bolt on the ramp atop P2, at the cave, you can rap down and to your right to another bolted rap station, and then to another and then to the ground - with one 60m rope
Jul 19, 2002
For about three years now, Green Spur has been my nemesis. I've been pretty much poop-scared of it. This morning, however, my buddy Jon and I headed up at 6:30am on a Wednesday...(which avoids the crowds and therefore MOST of the rockfall from the Red Ledge-I like your comment about its namesake, Brian-SCARY! Wearing a helmet even around the base of the climb is a stellar idea.) We strung P1 and 2 together with minimal rope drag. ('Gotta have a 60m.) Use long slings on the step-over @ the beginning of 2 and again back into the main crack. Bryson's right: stemming IS the way to go and, much to my surprise, 5.9 seems right on. 'Not any harder than Yellow or Flakes. What a great, enjoyable, sustained second pitch! I was surprised, though, at the amount of loose rock, even by Eldo standards. Be careful. The roof on P3 was really great! We strung 4 & 5 together, ending on Rebuffet's Arete and stepping across to the wall, being careful once again of rope drag. I'd do this climb again in a heartbeat!! (Now I think I'll be scared of Grandmother's Challenge!):) Clint
Jun 26, 2002
There are actually two ways to start the crux pitch. Climb straight up the left crack (wide and quite pumpy at the bottom), or step right and climb the right crack until you can step back into the left crack. The second variation is supposedly only 5.8 at the start, I have always gone the first way (5.9 for sure).
May 15, 2002
Best 5.9 I've done in a ***LONG*** time.
May 8, 2002
I agree. It's a bit tricky but not Eldo 5.10. Stemming is the way to go and once you know the moves well, I doubt anyone would say it's any harder than "Eldo 5.9" Excellent route, combine the pitches and go in the winter to avoid crowds.
Feb 2, 2002
Two central thoughts: 1) Yeah, this is a darn fine route. I think it's better than Yellow Spur, or the Center Route, which are the two I hear touted as the best 5.9 around, and frequently so. 2) I don't think it's hard for its grade. Darkness 'Til Dawn, Yellow Spur pin/bolt pitch, Grand Giraffe, Highway of Diamonds, the first pitch of XM, etc... all were 5.9 and all were just as hard, in my opinion. Yes, several of those have been upgraded, but we don't always have to go to the least common denominator. This is just my opinion- I stem through the hard part, so maybe I just have long legs or something, I don't know- I just don't think it's an Eldo 5.10 unless you want to compare it to some mercifully-rated climbes, but in that case, we can say it's harder than Auburn Lane (5.10d) and thus say it's 11a... but that's hardly reasonable. It's certainly a lot easier (like a full grade or two) than Midnight Trundler (originally 5.10a), but you won't catch me saying it's easy 5.8 either. I'm not trying to sandbag anyone, but I think if you are solid on 5.9 you'll probably get the Green Spur on-sight.
Jan 23, 2002
In my humble opinion, this route is two stars better than the Yellow Spur. The first pitch, when linked, is ... incredible and hard for 5.9. then the upper pitches are exposed and solid for three? pitches. My screams of ecstasy could be heard for miles.
Jan 22, 2002
It gets better...a lot better...Why one would climb only the first two pitches, when three incredible ones remain, is beyond me. From the Red Ledge, Follow the band to the huge tree above Grandmother's Challenge. Directly opposite, begin climbing the face, squeezing left of the EXTREMELY LARGE AND LOOSE BLOCK, up into a wild, overhung crack system. Very awkward climbing, with huge exposure. Awesome. Pull the crux roof (5.9) thru a V slot, head up on easier ground 50 more feet to an obvious belay ledge. Continue with pitch 4 of Rewritten for one of the most classic linkups in the canyon. -Darren W
Sep 10, 2001
The first and second pitches combine nicely, and are perfect examples of what is Eldo 5.9. The roof above Grandmother's ledge is stellar, protect under the roof and just go. As Matt mentioned, this area is very popular, which comes with two warnings. Bring your helmet, but don't forget your social cap. Due to the volume of traffic under these routes and the loose nature of all the barney on the Red Ledge, be warned; a small rock from that height can be fatal. Watch yourself, watch those around you. It's not called the Red Ledge because of the color of the sandstone.
Aug 24, 2001
This has got to be one of my favorite Eldo pitches. Fun crack climbing and thin face at the upper crux. You can throw in pro every 3 feet if you are scared (it is true that above the crux the pro is only once every 8 feet or so). Wearing a helmet on this route is definitely a good idea as it is directly below the upper pitches of Rewritten.
Jul 31, 2001
GREAT route...2nd pitch is STELLAR...lots of fun especially combined with the Rewritten finish....
Jan 1, 2001
- Heddie La Rue
Fun, but way harder than it looks! It's hard to smear on lichen I guess.... Oh yeah, save a #3 for the top out.
Apr 20, 2011
This pitch does not deserve an "R" rating as long as you have RPs and small cams such as C3s. A fun pitch that I thought was mid 5.10 for a move or two.
Apr 20, 2011
- Hot Links
- Hot Spur, The
Good route with lots of variations. The slanting crack to a pine tree is pretty easy to spot, but from there, you can choose a variety of features. We climbed straight up from the pine on a series of finger cracks winding through trees near the top to a big ledge - all 5th class. To the right of the 4th class gully, a left-facing dihedral with an old pin goes up to a roof. Escape right and head up to another bulge near a thin flake. Easy run-out terrain leads to a rubble ledge. I went up the left wall using a long right-slanting crack to a small summit tower. This finish was good, but the correct finish [up and right of the rubble ledge] is probably better. The route is very hard to spot in its entirety from the trail. Caution: Ron's yellow dot lines don't line up; I think one of lines follows Maverick to the rubble ledge.
Feb 17, 2013
Decent climb, there is finger crack that is optional but great on the first pitch.
Oct 17, 2010
- Lost in Space
I just did this one 3/25/08 and I agree with Ron's description of the climb. This is a fun climb, worth more than a star, maybe 2-3 IMHO. There is some loose rock on the first pitch. My partner (a careful climber) knocked one down towards me by accident. But this is to be expected when climbing in the mountains. Redgarden Wall isn't supposed to be a roadside, bouldering park. The V-dihedral has some grass in it and it's definitely an 8 there. The walk off left is easy. No reason to rap this route. It was 65-70s this March afternoon, and it felt downright hot on the rock. Definitely doable in winter.
Mar 27, 2008
This is actually a decent route if done by the best line. Here's how we did it on a warm and windy January day: Start: At the chimney/corner just left of Disappearing Act. p1. 5.7 115': Climb the chimney and corner up to the tree atop Disappearing Act (rap slings and rings on the tree). p2. 5.8 180': Climb past a loose ledge to a corner system. Continue past several bulges to a V-corner. Climb the corner, with some sections of slightly runout pro, grass, and lichen, to a ledge. p3. 5.7 60': Climb up the face to the left, then work right to the corner, and climb past a bulge to a tree at the top. Watch for loose rock. Descent: It's possible to rappel, but better to do the standard west face descent (same as for Green Spur, Rewritten, etc.). Done this way, the climb is fun and worth at least one star. Some slightly runout climbing on the second pitch and some loose rock on the third pitch, but lots of good climbing along the way. Pro: standard rack to #4 (C4) Camalot.
Jan 6, 2006
Funny. Rossiter also describes a last-pitch variation to Outer Space that he calls Lost in Space. A direct linkup from OS to upper Redgarden would be an impressive send.
Oct 30, 2001
Where is the route? You can't miss Sunstar, which is just to the right. The chimney and chockstone are obvious. To get on Lost in Space, go just to the L in the funky, inset chimney, or you can go 20 or 30 feet further L, which I didn't do. Once you are at the first belay, you are looking up at that massive dihedral.
Oct 29, 2001
Where is this route? There's a lot of "indistinct terrain" on the Redgarden Wall...
Oct 18, 2001
- Maverick
- Miller- Light Deviation, The
- Noodle Salad
- Northumberland Crack
This route is a giant choss pile with very few redeeming attributes, but if you enjoy rock crumbling underneath you while climbing, then have at it. The only good section of rock was about 20 ft of squeeze chimney on P3.
Aug 22, 2017
The wide crack on P2 is fun!
Jun 17, 2015
One of the wildest 5.9 cruxes in the canyon! BUT: The second pitch (the 5.9 crux) is quite loose before you get to the wide crack. You might get about three sketchy pieces before the bolt, the rest is crap. And don't expect too much confidence-building clipping that bolt; it's not one of those shiny, beefy things you find in BoCan or Clear Creek. If you're not allergic to double ropes, it could be a good idea; if you pull off any of the loose sharp flakes it could cut your rope. The rock is solid above the crux. Consider doing The Waiting Room instead of the regular first pitch.
Jun 4, 2012
Worthy route you won't see anyone else on....
Apr 3, 2011
Did this climb the other day. The moves were actually really fun, challenging, and not too strenuous, but the off-width part has sharp rock and is a bit dirty but well-protected without anything bigger than a #3.5/4 Camalot. The first 200 feet of the climb is about 5.7 with very loose rock that is stable but easily displaced. The upper two pitches are worth the climb. Just don't climb this route in shorts.... Jack
Apr 25, 2007
The line is hard to find and follow for pitch 2 and has lots of choss. But the crux through the roof is really fun. Taking 2 fist+ sized peices will make it easier to protect.
Mar 15, 2006
The first pitch of this climb has as much or more loose rock on it than just about anything I've climbed. But it leads to absolutely stellar climbing above!
Nov 4, 2005
- Paris Girl
Rap bolted run out routes? Is it run out and sparsely equipped because there are no stances from which to clip or did Christian just want a heady route? Either way... love the games climbers play.
Apr 8, 2016
Does anyone have links to video and/or photo-beta for the crux section of PG? The only sequence that we found yesterday seemed pretty hard for 13a.
Nov 6, 2013
Say - have any of you read Jim Beyer's rant in Alpinist 8 about Paris Girl? He claims that it was chipped. Anybody know of the truth or lie behind that?
Feb 12, 2005
For the record, it is Paris Girl, not "Girls," named after a specific 13-year-old Lolita-ish Parisian in rollerskates photographed by Charlie Fowler beneath the Eiffel Tower. The photo was later shown to the impressionable and imaginative first ascenscionist, who was hopelessly smitten.
Feb 4, 2002
I'd just like to add that Steve Levin, although I've never met him, has certainly the most impressive list of contributions to the site. Any climber who completes even a fraction of these routes really has his or her act together.
Jul 24, 2001
Background: In May of 2001, a flyer popped up at Neptune's saying ...._500 reward from ACE (Action Committee for Eldorado) "to anyone who provide evidence that leads to the arrest or conviction of the person or persons who vandalized and sabotaged the bolts on Paris Girls." I don't know if they ever caught the idiot who did this.
Jul 16, 2001
- Piece of the Sun
- Please Close Lid
- Rabbits From Hats
Fun little outing, maybe 30' of independent climbing. The gear is good, and the moves are strenuous and fun. My only complaint is the "direct" start (described above), following the crack from the beginning up to the #3 Friend slot, is pretty contrived, since you can stem back into the "Disappearing Act" corner very easily. Above that, though, "Rabbits" does move left and becomes more independent. -Scott
Jan 5, 2010
- Razors to Rubble
- Rebuffat's Arete
Where does the name come from?
Aug 28, 2017
Had a 0.4 walk from rope drag about halfway up the arete, and my partner was unable to retrieve it. If someone with more skill or patience is able to snag it, shoot me a PM. Would be happy to pay for it to get shipped and will get you some beer for your trouble!
Jul 5, 2017
A good pitch, but agree that it is a variation on an existing route and shouldn't be listed as its own page.
Aug 11, 2015
Simply brilliant pitch.
Oct 4, 2014
Not sure this pitch deserves its own page. It really is just a variation to Rewritten's pitch 5, albeit the preferred one. If we start adding a page to MP for every variation to every climb in Eldo (and beyond), I'm pretty sure the servers will crash and burn in a brilliant fireball of 1s and 0s.
Apr 8, 2014
- Rewritten
If anyone finds or found a 0.4 c4 Camalot from today, 11/24/17, I'd love to get it back.
Nov 24, 2017
Hi, we bailed today due to high winds halfway past the 4th pitch (finger crack). By the way, that crack was really fun. I left 2 small nuts and a 0.75 cam with 3 slings. If someone runs into that gear, I would really appreciate it they could return it. You can reach me at miguelrg@gmail.com. I'll buy a pack of nice beer in return!
Oct 14, 2017
So instead of doing P5 - 6 of Rewritten, I went diagonally up and ultimately about 20 ft L of the dead tree belay to a knife-edge arete and did a spooky, techy couple of slab moves past a bolt (5.9) to get onto the arete. Fun moves going up the arete, one spot a bit tricky to protect. Anyone know what this route is? Didn't see any chalk on it, but the bolt is clear evidence that a line exists here.
Aug 22, 2017
Hey Eldo friends, my partner and I were on this wonderful classic late today (7/13/17), and unfortunately about halfway up pitch two, she got violently ill. We rappelled off the rings at the top of pitch 2 -- since we only had my 70m and it is a 50m rappel, we set up a Reepschnur (sp?) but didn't have sufficient cordalette, tag line, and slings to retrieve the rope. We're headed back for it first thing tomorrow morning, but if you beat us up there and recover the rope, there's a sixpack with your name on it. It's a grey, bipatterned Sterling 70m 9.8mm. PM if you recover it. Thanks!
Jul 13, 2017
Wow! What a great climb! Great Zot start, 4th pitch is stellar, and the arete is just the cherry on top, great gear if you find it.
Jul 9, 2017
Left a Trango rope bag/tarp at the base of the climb. Please PM if found. Thanks.
May 22, 2017
Finally got a chance to climb this classic, and let me tell you, it exceeded the hype. We did the Great Zot variation for the start and finished on Rebuffat's arete. Pitch 4 gets all the press, but Rebuffat's arete was my favorite pitch. The exposure on that knife edge is unlike anything I've experienced, and it just washes over you. I highly recommend this route, and don't shortchange yourself by climbing that easy gully on pitch 5, hit the arete, you will not regret it.
Mar 29, 2017
Climbed this route on 3/13/17 and had a blast! Unfortunately, I dropped a 0.75 C4 just after the traverse on pitch 4. If somebody finds it, it would be great to have it back. Shoot me a PM if you are feeling like a good Samaritan, thanks!
Mar 14, 2017
Climbed this today... 70F in November... wow. This climb has SO much loose rock on it. Huge jugs with chalk, and they move. I was so worried I'd pull something off and there were people below, so I avoided pulling on or stepping on anything that looked sketchy. Probably made the climb a grade harder, but it was worth it. Overall, there were some great sections, but because of the low overall rock quality, I wouldn't recommend the climb.
Nov 10, 2016
A STELLAR multipitch. Felt more like 5.7+/5.8 to me, but then again, it was my first time climbing in Eldo, which I hear is a unique style. Every pitch is really unique; good protection; sweet exposure. A few notes: Pitch 4 - the traverse is epic and not as bad as it looks, but as a leader, make sure you protect your follower by sewing up horizontal crack.... It eats up gear anyways. Pitch 5 - you can either climb left up an easier chossy gully/crack, or head right up an exposed and crazy arete (Rebuffat's Arete). After reading that the Arete was the way to go, I chose that option. Definitely exposed, definitely worth it; protectable (but tricky if you're a beginner leader). I'd definitely recommend the arete, EXCEPT I did not realize that the belay spot for the sixth pitch is about 10 feet below and behind the horn of the arete. This means once you get to the horn, you either have to summit it and scoot down its back to the belay spot (what I did - it was scary), or downclimb and traverse left to the easier crack system and then up. Either way, even if you sling the horn, you're potentially leaving your follower unprotected and vulnerable to a swing once they remove the last piece of gear on the arete... and a lot of rope drag since you're belaying parallel to the arete. I don't know how to avoid this, or if other people have had this problem, but it left my follower very spooked when I informed him he had to remove my last piece and then traverse over. Maybe try to protect the traverse better, but even so, if you sling the horn, that still creates problems... also, it's the end of the pitch, so I didn't have a lot of gear left.
Sep 7, 2016
Jason Kim wrote:My first visit to Eldo and Rewritten left me disappointed... Jason - The Beloved Chosspile also known as Eldo is an acquired taste. It's too bad that you didn't enjoy your route that much, but only 3 out of 773 climbers have given this climb less than 2 stars. Sounds like you had a bad day. Do Ruper or Gambit at daybreak for cooler temps next time. The charm of Eldo is a diamond-in-the-rough quality that sets it apart from sport crags. Cheers, -gg
Aug 17, 2016
My first visit to Eldo and Rewritten left me disappointed. Did the Great Zot start which was just OK. The 4th pitch traverse was really cool but also super short. The amount of choss, whether it be the hollow flakes or the loose rocks/blocks all over the belay stances left me feeling pretty uneasy. To be fair, a thunderstorm rolled in and we ended up blasting through the top and missed the arete, which looked pretty fun. Had fun on the descent with some lightning and a rattlesnake as we dropped back down the west side. The trail is well marked with quacks, as my partner calls them. The eyebolt at the top of the 2nd pitch appears to be solid and includes a stamped marker that reads "165 ft rappel to good ledge then 5.0 downclimb for 20 ft". Just above the eyebolt, there is a newer Fixe 2-bolt anchor and ring, so this is a convenient belay if you pitch it out per the guidebook. Don't forget your helmet.
Aug 16, 2016
The Great Zot is really chill for the grade, and it is amazing. Watch out for that crazy Colorado weather! Got rained on, hailed on, and "waterfalled" on this route. Epic!
Jul 2, 2016
^^^^^^^^ Nice work! Thanks to the whole team - Mike McHugh, Eddie Schoen, Thomas White, Clint Locks, and Japhy Dhungana!
Jun 30, 2016
Loose block stabilized on 5th pitch of Rewritten. This pitch is avoided if you climb Rebuffat's. Early this morning, Mike McHugh led a team of guides in Eldo to split and lower a large, unstable block on the 5th pitch of Rewritten. It was split and lowered into a more stable place. As with all Eldo routes, there is always a hazard for loose blocks, even on popular routes like Rewritten. Please continue to use caution, especially on belay ledges and stances where rocks collect. Remember that the base area below all of these routes is very popular and anything knocked down gets funneled to this busy area. Thanks to Mike McHugh, Eddie Schoen, Thomas White, Clint Locks, and Japhy Dhungana.
Jun 30, 2016
Amazing climb, but so much fixed gear. Found a brand new Metolius ultralight cam as well as two BD nuts. PM if yours.
Jun 26, 2016
Super fun lead! The 4th pitch gets surprisingly vertical after the epic traverse, so be prepared for some mild exposure!
Jun 3, 2016
It's a shot in the dark, but I got a 0.75 BD X4 stuck in the P4 hand crack just after the traverse. If someone digs it out, I'd greatly appreciate getting it back. Otherwise, might be some new fixed gear up there.
May 15, 2016
I highly recommend the Great Zot start. It makes for a classic pitch and is not any harder than the fourth pitch.
Oct 10, 2015
If you don't do the arete variation, you are missing out. Can easily link 6th pitch to summit with minimal drag. Epic epicness.
Oct 2, 2015
We climbed this route on 8/15/15. Climbers including myself, my two kids 7 & 8, and Clay. Clay led pitches 1-3 mostly along the Great Zot line. I led pitch 4 to summit. Generally we felt the route was more 5.8; however, we did the alternate start, and I believe near the top of P4 after the hand crack I was off route on a more difficult crack. Everything outside of P1 & P4 is fun and cruiser. Unfortunately we didn't get to do the arete finish. Pitch 4 is simply incredible and a must do. BOOTY: we left a BD 0.4 C4 right next to the fixed pink tricam at the top of the 3rd pitch right before you start the famous hand crack. If anyone retrieves, please shoot me a PM. I would like it back. QUESTION: on the way home, we realized it's possible my kids may be the youngest to do this route, anyone know for sure? Saw a pic of a 5 year old on Bastille crack and my daughter wanted to know....
Aug 23, 2015
Hey folks! My friend and I started climbing but got caught in a massive downpour. We left some gear at the top of pitch 3, right before the glorious looking traverse :( We're headed back to grab the gear, but if you find it before we do, please pm me!
Aug 13, 2015
Anyone lose a small hex on this route this week, maybe Tuesday or Wednesday July 29th? I have it. PM me. Chris
Jul 31, 2015
Be careful with the dead tree at the top of pitch 4. It moves if you push it and seems to be held in place by a small boulder.
Jun 13, 2015
FOUND: Rope bag on 3/16/15. Please PM me & describe for its return.
Mar 16, 2015
Did this route yesterday 1/20/15, only people in the park! This route is fantastic, best 5.7 I've done. Linked pitch 1 and 2, found good gear every 10 to 15 feet. Also, linked pitch 4 and 5 for one long, exposed, and beautiful pitch!
Jan 21, 2015
Definitely a busy route on a nice Saturday fall day. Parties were going up Rewritten, Great Zot start, Swanson's, Green Spur, etc.... Very very busy on October 11th, 2014. If you like solitude. don't do a weekend, but with a busy day, other parties can help if you couldn't clean a piece as a follower like I suffered. Hardest pitch was definitely, the 4th, and really the climb after the traverse IMO. Since it's harder to find easier moves on the section, it's the most sustained 5.7+, and given that you've already done 3 pitches and it's airy, it can be tougher that other 5.7s. Other pitches like 1&2 or 5&6 could be combined given a good long rope. Also, plenty of old fixed pieces are left that you could possibly clip into.
Oct 12, 2014
Picked up some old 5.10 climbing shoes that were at the base for more than 13+ hours on 9/3/14. PM me & describe them to get them back.
Sep 5, 2014
DESCENT: got lost on this on the descent once, never again. After you top out, you shimmy down down a short 4th class section of rock to a flat, dirt platform. From here, don't keep going downhill towards the north-northeast (like the guidebook implies). Instead, veer left (west) and uphill on a dirt trail until you see some cairns (should be pretty immediate). This will take you up north-northwest to a notch then down through some ledges and back down towards the west Redgarden trail. The trail is steep, well-worn, and well marked with cairns. If you find yourself heading straight downhill after the short 4th class section and down thin climber's trail through some gullies with no cairns, you're going the wrong way and will wind up (after lots of sketchy downclimbing and bushwhacking) on the east side of Redgarden Wall.
Aug 18, 2014
Found a cam and draw halfway up Rewritten in a bush at the base of the final gully. PM me with the brand and the colors of tape on both, and I'll make sure you get it back!!
Jul 11, 2014
"GoingUp": it's gone now (someone else, not me), along with the other stuck nut on p4.
Jun 16, 2014
Slotted a nut in the the crack just below the p4-5 belay (old refrigerator block), my second couldn't get it out. New fixed gear?
Jun 10, 2014
Forgot a nut tool yesterday and got a 0.125 tricam stuck on belay on top of P3. It's over to the right in a blocky feature. If you get it out and see this, go ahead and PM me. Thanks! Awesome climb by the way. Scary in 60 mph gusts....
Jan 13, 2014
Miiiight have left a tri-cam to the right of where the refrigerator block was (right before Rebuffat's start).... Good luck to someone if they can manage to get it out, otherwise it's new fixed gear. Other than that, had an awesome climb on it today with the Zot's start and finishing Rebuffat. First route I've climbed in Eldo, I'll be back for sure!
Sep 3, 2013
Good route. Both my partner and I agreed that the crack seems glossed over and it's not as gritty as it once was, but there is plenty of other holds. Jug haul to the top. Also, today I almost stepped on a rattlesnake, so be aware while you are out there.
Aug 24, 2013
Found some bail gear last Thursday at the top of the third pitch right before the hand crack traverse. I took it with me, but if it's yours ,I'd be glad to give it back. PM me with what you lost, and we'll figure it out.
Aug 19, 2013
Great route! Lovvvved it. Watch out for the small ledge that one may be tempted to think is the end of Pitch 4. I don't think it really is (I believe its where that large block pulled off in the past). We went to the left and up the crack/gully to a larger dead tree ledge with a sweet, reclining belay stance, after your leader clears the loose rock hazards above you. There's quite a bit of fixed gear on this route. Unfortunately we may have accidently added to it.... There is a new small offwidth BD cam on pitch 4. We tried for a while today to get it out but to no avail. If you were kindly able to retrieve our piece before we get up there again, please PM me or post on here and I will gladly repay you at the Southern Sun (or your choice...). Thank you !!
May 24, 2013
Nice route overall. We did a wrong traverse up on p3 which leads to a harder p4. We had to pass a kind of roof, which fun. There is chalk in the route :D Anyone know about this variant?
Mar 21, 2013
One of the best 5.7s I've ever done, along with Corrugation Corner and Bear's Reach at Lover's Leap. The exposure and movement on the traverse/crack pitch are as good as it gets.
Feb 8, 2013
Skip the first belay set up and go to the I bolt if you have a 70m.
Feb 7, 2013
Did this route (kind of) for the first time today. We started on the Great Zot. Awesome. Linked p1 and p2 to the eyebolts which only left about 4ft of extra rope out of our 70m. P3 was so-so. After the 4th pitch traverse/crack thing (which was pretty incredible), we somehow started the 5th much too far to the left and accidentally got on a different arete (about 40ft left of Rebuffat's) with some loose rocks. The arete was spectacularly scary, sharp, and runout but proved to be one of the coolest parts of the day anyway. I was able to sling a few horns on the way up, but there wasn't much in the way of gear. We ended up in an extremely windy notch, just to the left of the summit, pants filled with poop and huge grins on our faces. What a day! P.S. Does anyone know if this arete is even considered a route? It had a fair amount of lichen on it and felt like pretty solid 5.8 or harder. Sling placements every 20ft or so. There was a newer bolt toward the bottom of it in a seemingly illogical blank spot.
Feb 4, 2013
This is a 3 pitch climb with a 70 meter rope.... Just sayin'....
Oct 11, 2012
Wow, lots of comments. My $0.02.... Some more history. Ament & McCarty make no mention of this route in any of the three editions of 'High Over Boulder' I have (1967, 1976, & 1995). Descriptions are offered in Ament's 'Eldorado: A Rock Climber's Guide' and Erickson's 'Rocky Heights' (both 1980). Ament specifically refers to the P4 traverse as a "foot-traverse", and Erickson blithely directs one to "traverse 15 feet left." Considering the manner used to tackle the traverse today and the attendant aura/reputation ascribed to it, those descriptions now seem curious and understated. Reading Ament's and Erickson's text descriptions, I would have been hard-pressed to find the correct line. But I'm also a moron. Amazing what the 'topo' drawing has done for route descriptions. Thank you, Richard Rossiter. I climbed Eldo with a new partner last year, and he was stunned to see my guidebook was Rossiter's 'Rock Climbing Eldorado'. I actually believe he thought his glossy, full-color Levin guidebook was the first and only Eldo guide. Amusing. I guess my point is that we owe a HUGE debt to these men for the passion and care they've put in over the decades cataloging route info for the generations that followed. I hope newer climbers realize this, and appreciate their efforts, and the rich history of these climbs. Regarding the origin of the moniker 'Rebuffat's Arete', what comes to mind is a photo of the legendary Gaston Rebuffat I first saw in his beautifully illustrated book 'On Ice and Snow and Rock'. The photo is of him standing balanced atop the 'Pic de Roc'. Google it, then imagine yourself trying to stand atop Rebuffat's Arete when you get there climbing Rewritten. Perhaps that photo was the subconscious inspiration for its naming. As for the climb itself, I understand the reasoning behind starting on P1 of Great Zot as the first pitch, but if one reads the first several chapters of 'Moby Dick', but finishes with the last 3/4th's of 'War & Peace', has one read 'War & Peace'? Just wondering.... Anyway, Rossiter describes P1 well - it is awkward to protect but not impossible to reasonably protect. I did this pitch twice in 5 days, and I traversed too soon into the Zot crack the first time. Fight this temptation. You'll find yourself at the corner of the P1 arete on a comfortable stance/rest. Straight up looks less appealing than shooting straight right to join the Zot crack immediately above the crux 'cave', but it's not. Make a move or two straight up from this stance -- I believe this is the roof Rossiter describes -- THEN move right to the crack. On P4, as of two weeks ago there were two fixed pieces about a foot apart in the vertical crack above the traverse, then another fixed small wire in the steep section after you step left around the arete, before the belay at the old fridge block ledge. I thought this ledge was fine for the belay. Look around to the right (south) of the start of the P5 arete and you'll find a good crack. I think a previous poster mentioned a "semi-hanging" belay could be had here. I was able to lay back quite comfortably on this ledge without hanging. As for P5, the arete is a must-do. Since the original, historical line is the gully to the left, it may seem contradictory for me to say this. But the arete is a variation to, not a different climb than, Rewritten. And IMO it is a far more logical, direct, and aesthetically pleasing line. Having climbed both, leave the gully to history. Hands-down the most difficult part of P5 is the first move or two up through the crack at the old, fridge block belay. After these moves, go left and gain the arete proper. You'll find holds a foot or two on either side of the edge just where you need them to allow you to stay right on it to its point. You can get a piece or two in, and sling some stone along the way. Careful, though - one of the blocks on the arete felt like it may have been a little less than solid. P1 & 2 combine well with a 70m rope, as do 5 & 6. One could easily combine 3 & 4 also, but it just didn't seem 'right'.
Sep 10, 2012
Honestly, listen to others advice and climb Zot instead of P1, and Rebuffat's Arete. I think with those two substitutions, this is a four star route. However, without them it's not nearly up to the same "every pitch is fantastic" standard of say Ruper.
Aug 31, 2012
P1-3 are not all that interesting but stay in the shade throughout the morning. P1 is a little spicy. 4-6 are stellar, combine 5-6 and do Rebuffat's.
Aug 15, 2012
Found this to be a good solid 5.7, and it makes the Bastille 5.6 as I think it should be. The 5.8 Zot start is the way to go! It protects well at G rating and is 2-3 moves on all positive holds to the crack... almost like doing it on top-rope. Found the 5.7 traverse easier than people talk... and the rest of the pitch excellent solid 5.7. The arete was not as hard to protect as I thought as well... and the final pitch was fun short 5.6. Will link some pitches next time now that I have done it original.. 1 & 2 for sure. 3 &4 maybe? and 5& 6 ? will see... Pitch 2was a little undefined but obvious where you are going to ... if you aim for the chains and go up the steeps it's fun protects every 10 ft. or so maybe solid 5.7 .
May 25, 2012
Yeah, so I had to leave a BD 0.75 at the very top of the last (6th) pitch. I'm sort of hurting for cash these days, so maybe you might take pity on me? I'll buy you a 6 pack and you can feel really good about yourself!
May 1, 2012
The arete is no way 5.8 or 5.7 PG as the book says. 5.6 and the gear is all there (small cams mostly).
Oct 4, 2011
I climbed this route a few weeks ago and cleaned a cam for a couple from Louisville. We were slow coming down and never caught up with you. If you want your cam back, PM me with the description. Thanks, Scotty
Oct 3, 2011
One must do the arete and not the gully. Would be a shame to miss out on an amazing ending otherwise.
Sep 29, 2011
Climbed this 5/30. At the belay for the fourth pitch, the wind picked up and started blowing a small hailstorm of rocks onto me and one of my climbing partners (we were a team of 3). We got pelted with some smaller stuff but nothing serious - just a word of caution as there's a lot of stuff directly above that can be dislodged by wind alone. Also on the descent - there are sections where literally everything is loose. My friend dislodged a block the size of a microwave. Be very, very careful.
May 31, 2011
This route was incredible. Compared to Gambit, which we did recently, this one seemed to be longer, more continuous, and had less loose rock. The Rebuffat's Arete variation is full value and was way better than the standard 5.0 tree gully finish appeared to be. We followed the Levin guidebook description (which was spot-on overall) and belayed P5 from the dead tree ledge. Makes for a roomy belay ledge, and you can see and hear the leader for the Rebuffat pitch real easily. Just wanted to note: there is a large section of rock immediately to climbers' right of the dead tree that appears to be solid in the ground. I initially thought about slinging it, but after giving it a bear hug, it shifted a little. I would avoid using it at all costs. Same with the dead as a doornail tree. There are abundant solid anchor building opportunities in the crack systems recessed back a little from the edge.
May 17, 2011
The 4h pitch of this climb is a classic; one of the outstanding single pitches in Eldorado Canyon. It's worth the effort expended during the approach and more!
Mar 12, 2011
Just climbed this for the first time since the refrigerator block fell. Now that the block's gone you can easily belay on the ledge just around the corner climber's right in the photo two posts above. It's a semi-hanging and really airy belay that (as Ron pointed out earlier) allows you to watch your second on the traverse. It also allows you to climb directly up off of the belay to gain Rebuffat's Arete.
Nov 8, 2010
Hey, maybe the route description should be changed. I was in the park last year when the rock fell. Scared the *&$^ out of me even though I was bouldering elsewhere it was SO DAMN loud. Headed up to do Rewritten and noticed the route still mentions the no longer existing rock. I understand if it stays for historical purposes, but a (no longer) mid sentence would work, too. Cheers.
Sep 4, 2010
In the description, the block that moves on top of P4 is now gone. This block fell in 2009 (see Micah's post above) and left a larger ledge, although I felt there wasn't a great spot to build a belay there. The ledge above the traverse where the 'fridge-sized block USED to be.
Jul 12, 2010
The hardest pitch was the descending pitch. When descending, don't go down to the back side. Stay on the ridge. There were several cairns that led us to the back, lost, hiked back up to the ridge, and found the 4th class downclimb.
Sep 5, 2009
I was on pitch 4 and the party above me yelled down that the block was loose, I have climbed "Rewritten" before and I knew the infamous refrigerator block balanced on the ledge. I didn't think too much of the warning, and I kept moving up. When I got to the block, I carefully traverse around it, but when I came on the right side I stepped on a rock and my foot sank. The "refrigerator" block was nudged just enough that it shifted off. I thought it might miss me, but then it hit my rope and yarded me off the ledge head first. I ended up falling the entire pitch and was about even with my belayer when the rope stopped me. I yelled "rock" as loud as I could, but "rock" sounded like the understatement of the century. I knew Mark and Jeff were directly below me, and was VERY relieved that they were ok. The route was completely covered in dust, pebbles and even some good size chucks of rock. After walking down there, I found tree limbs and exploded rock everywhere. My partners pack was destroyed along with some of the contents of the pack. Thanks for everyones concern. I am super thankful that nobody got seriously hurt and that I was wearing my helmet. Please be careful on this route as it is still littered with rubble that is just waiting to come down. taken from forum post here
Aug 2, 2009
Thanks for that Bill. No worries though, these are the risks we take to be in the mountains at any given time. I'm all healed up and climbing again, had nothing more serious than scrapes and bruises. I do now have a new rule for places like Eldo though from this incident: be first on the route or don't be on the route at all.
May 26, 2009
I applaud Bill for his apology. A 30 meter rope????
May 26, 2009
Hi Scott, I was the climber that knocked off the rock on you and your partner on May 9th. I was traversing the ledge from the top of the 2nd pitch of Rewritten towards the top of the 2nd pitch of Green Spur (since we had caught the party above us). I knew the ledge was dangerous and I was trying to be careful, but I screwed up. I stepped on a rock that was well embedded in the ledge (some dirt here) and it moved. When I stepped off it, it went. I screamed bloody murder. "ROCK! ROCK! ROCK!" I screamed immediately and as loud as I could possibly scream. I was terrified at the time, as I knew there many people below and I knew two large rocks were headed their way. I also knew that if these rocks hit someone, they were dead. After screaming until the rocks hit the ground, I waited and listened. I heard someone cuss up at me, as I would have done. I yelled down to my partner, asking if everyone was okay. He said they were, but he was at the top of the first pitch. We were climbing on a 30-meter rope and had no way to descend easily without climbing off the top, which is what we did. We hurried down and I admitted my mistake and apologized to everyone still there. I heard about Joe and we hustled down the trail to try and catch you guys, but you were long gone. So I say to you now, "I'm extremely sorry for my mistake and I am very glad you two weren't injured worse." I take it very seriously and I can assure that I was screaming, literally screaming not just yelling, down a warning. I am deeply sorry that this wasn't loud enough down below, but I was doing all I could up there. I'd love to meet you two in person, buy you beer and apologize to your face. I've since climbed the route twice more and the Green Spur. I love the climbing there. I can assure that I will not make that mistake again and I will always remember that mistake whenever I pass this area. I am an experienced Eldo climber and I still made this mistake. I wasn't complacent at the time, though, as I said. I knew it was a dangerous spot and tried to be careful, but I wasn't careful enough. Deepest regrets, Bill
May 26, 2009
Watch out for loose rock. Also, if you knock a rock loose, yell "rock", not "ahhhh". It is easier to get the hell out of the way when you know something is coming down. Pretty sure Joe will be ok, he got pretty bloodied up though. Maybe next time we can actually start climbing this one instead of getting grenaded on the trail.
May 9, 2009
Topped out right at sunset after taking a variation due to congestion on the hand traverse pitch. Good even if a little loose. We'll have to come back for the money pitches. Found one party at the top with only 1 headlamp and very little clue about the descent. Another party finished up after us, but asked us to stay because they had no headlamps or idea about the descent. We ended up hiking in the dark and sharing headlamps with the other two parties. People need to come prepared because this is a longer route with much traffic and a convoluted descent. It's easy to get benighted. Also, loose rock on the route and descent mean helmets are a good choice.
Feb 8, 2009
Do the last two pitches in one and do the first two pitches in one. We easily did this climb in 4 pitches.
Oct 25, 2008
I just tried this climb for the first time yesterday and it was great. A few comments about the first pitch. There wasn't any "loose" rock in the sense of rocks just lying on edges ready to fall off, but most of the rock sounded very hollow. Many times I touched flakes that were fairly loose (large flakes the size of dinner plates). Someone could easily pull one of those off. That being said, even avoiding the loose flakes there were plenty of big holds and the climbing stayed mostly in the 5.4 range. I would say the crux was making the hand traverse to the right to rejoin Great Zot (maybe a 5.6 move). Prior to that traverse I found a place to put one bomber small nut down and left as well as slinging a horn (I was at least 15 feet above the last piece before I placed those and a fall before placing gear would have been bad... fortunately there are gear placements prior to making the traverse. Because of that 15 foot run out section on hollow rock, I found this pitch to be the most intimidating section of the climb). As soon as you make the traverse into the easier top part of the Great Zot crack, there is great pro to be had for the rest of the climb. The arete was an amazing pitch and definitely worth the climb.
Sep 5, 2008
Climbed in 3 pitches with a 60 meter rope. 1) Second with have to simulclimb for about 20 feet to reach the eye bolt at the red ledge. 2) Belay just below where the arete sharpens -- almost the full rope. 3) Just over half the rope will get you to the top of the wall.
Aug 10, 2008
Awesome route. I'll repeat others recommendations for doing Great Zot to Rewritten to Rebuffat... and for linking pitches 2 & 3, as well as 5 & 6. I'd also recommend setting a belay at the top of pitch 4 about 15 feet above the large detached block, there's a nice ledge for the belayer to stand/sit on. It's on the face of the arete, so you can watch your second for most of the pitch as well, which is nice. And bring lots of long runners.
Aug 8, 2008
Great route. Here's another vote for the Great Zot start; also a vote for linking pitches 2 & 3 (bypassing the eyebolt belay) and 5 & 6 (putting a double runner on the arete horn and climbing a ways up the final headwall before placing pro.
Jul 1, 2008
Tied this baby together again 4/19...what a nice sunny climb. Use a 70 meter rope and lots of runners.... 1st pitch all the way to the eyebolt. 2nd pitch to the flat just below Swanson Arete, and a short 3rd up the arete and back onto the wall.... Remember, lots of runners!!! Don't forget to straddle the arete on top and just take time to reflect where you are in the world.... You just gotta love Boulder on days like this....
Apr 21, 2008
One of the best routes in all of Eldo....yeah it has some junk on it, but what route doesn't. Can't count how many times I've climbed this gem.
Apr 3, 2008
Took a nice 15 ft. fall from the Zot cave today when a fixed piece blew. BTW the fixed pin below the cave is bomber!! Rest of the climb is stellar.
Feb 10, 2008
Zot 2 Rewritten 2 Rebuffat = 4 star moderate.
Oct 30, 2007
Great route! The walkoff is way north. I initially tried walking along/near the ridge- bad idea. Stay on the east side of the ridge walking below some slabs (between 25 and 125 feet from the top). Just keep going and you will eventually see the cairns start up.
Oct 4, 2007
By far one of the best 5.7s in Eldo. Way better than the polished Bastille Crack. With good rope management, you can certainly tie together 1&2, 3&4, 5&6, for a lusciously, classic, exposed, vertical experience. Watch the loose rock though in places, it can be scary for the folks below if the leader is careless.... Follow the cairns for an easy 4th class hike off to the north west.
Sep 15, 2007
Yeah Clint, it climbs pretty fair, has ok pro spacing, doesn't really offer a clean crack climb though but does have some fun moves, & can take a right variant to finish the top-out at about that same 5.6 level. Overall, not as difficult as P1 Great Zot, or P1 Werk Supp, but 5.8 & 2 stars was what I thought. I was glad we gave it a shot just to say we climbed it. Another good thing, you get to use that BFT & shade for the start anchor.
May 10, 2007
QUESTION: I've always been intrigued by the P5 alternate "5.8+ wide crack that makes up the right corner of the [Rebuffat's] arete". Anyone ever made the mistake of/had the pleasure of trying it?
May 10, 2007
That was me doing the dropping, Luke's head and helmet doing the blocking and Chuck's chest doing the stopping. .75 Camalot came off the biner as I was placing the other cam on the same biner.
Apr 26, 2007
Casey, How big was the cam. If it's under a size #2 Camalot, it isn't usually a problem, but anything bigger I'd hate it if I got hit by it the wrong way....or is that the right way? Jack
Apr 25, 2007
Very cool route. I was surprised at the amount of loose rock on it for such a popular climb. I'd be wary of climbing directly below anyone up here. I was even more surprised at the number of people I saw in the canyon NOT wearing helmets. The group next to us on the Great Zot had the leader drop a cam 75 feet onto the head of his belayer below. Better than a rock, I guess.
Apr 25, 2007
PLEASE BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL TO NOT DISLODGE ROCKS WHEN DOWNCLIMBING THROUGH THE NOTCH BETWEEN TOWERS. My stupid ass started a rockslide that swept down to South Boulder Creek. Fortunately no one was injured.
Apr 22, 2007
Followed Rob on all 4 pitches. Amazing climb!
Apr 15, 2007
If you start with Green Spur, you can climb this route in 3 pitches. With a 70m you can do the original start to the eybolt and still get it in 3 pitches. Pitch 1 to the eybolt on the Red Ledge. Pitch 2 to the belay at the top of the crux pitch. Pitch 3 to the summit (via the exposed Rebuffat's Arete).
Nov 27, 2006
Did this 1st time last week, 4 pitches with alternate routes. The "crux" for me was a chimney on P3!For P1 did ZOT route. The traverse and crack are awesome! But I didn't think too difficult.The best part (fun, exposure, views) was the last pitch Rebuffat's Arete. Definitely a repeater!!! colorado-hiking.net/rewritt…
Oct 23, 2005
Did [The Geat Zot] start. The first 2 pitches weren't that [memorable]. The third pitch was fun, the 4th was stellar steep climbing for the grade. Went straight up the arete for the fifth pitch with was as good as the 4th. Belayed from the pinacle and got some killer photos then cruised the last pitch. could have easily linked pitches but it was a casual day.
Jul 24, 2005
I was at the base of [Rewritten] around 7:45 on a Saturday, and there were three parties of three ahead of us for the first pitch. Luckily, they were all headed off to do Swanson's or Icarus. Rather than scramble up the West Chimney and cross over all the ropes of these folks, my partner and I did the first pitch of Green Slab Direct (5.8). Then you can traverse over right in a pitch to the top of the second pitch of Rewritten (through a tunnel with loose rock galore).
Jul 6, 2005
Moral of the story: Faster is better, get up at noon, lounge poolside until it cools down, get out to crag once everyone is high on the wall, and then blast to top of whatever route you want to, catching up to the other parties as they start the downclimb...
Jun 28, 2005
Jason, hey good to see you're out on the rock. As to pitch 2 it is hard to say exactly where you were. Always i guess a bit hard to describe where I went, but I do remember heading right from the first belay for a bit then pretty much straight up. It was a little run out but solid and definitely not 5.2 (5.7 friction in spots?) there were some people on the Green Spur to the left of me at the same time and no problem with ropes crossing. However like I said, it's a big rock and maybe you're right, people should just stick to the standard way. If anyone else out there has any thoughts always glad to hear other peoples experiences. I am certainly not the expert on Rewritten.
May 9, 2005
Gary, I tried going from the top of P1 on the Great Zot to the bolt on Rewritten (top of second pitch), it sucks, just go to the ledge and traverse left. It's not all that protectable and is pretty broken. Plus on a busy day you'll most likely cross ropes with someone else coming up. FYI - took a look at Rebuffat's the other day and it looks pretty protectable (looking up from the "detached refrigerator"). I haven't lead it but can't wait to go back and do so.
May 4, 2005
Few more comments to add to the high volume here. On the second pitch (from top of Great Zot) it is possible to climb a fairly direct line to the big bolt by heading left at a greenish area of rock. This avoid hitting Red Ledge below the bolt and having to traverse loose rock with great potential rope drag to knock down rock. This of course adds a couple of more 5.7ish moves to a 5.2 pitch but if you are leading a 5.7 route this should be doable? There is a big pile of loose rock up the gully to the right of belay station and the end of pitch three. Advice belay as far into the little enclave as possible. The traverse on pitch four is actually quite straightforward. There are a couple of fixed pieces on the vertical hand crack above that if you clip with long slings and only used one piece half way across the traverse your rope will run in a pretty nice line! As mentioned several times, the arete on pitch five is fantastic and imho the funnest part of the climb. I found it to protect quite adequately with a few mediums cams a couple of nuts. Of course slinging the pointed summit is also too hard to resist. Then downclimb into the safe enclove to belay. The walk off is not straightforward - it is a long ways north (farther than you would think) to find the well worn steep descent trail (if its not 100 obvious you are not at descent yet). (There are some cairns along the way to help.) If weather is encroaching, remember that it is probably a good hour back to your car for descent. Finally, great great climb. Wear a helmet and enjoy!
Apr 9, 2005
I've always connected pitch 4 and 5, if you use long runners, a 60m rope will get you from the hand traverse, just barely to the notch after Rebuffat's Arete. Really airy and a cool 200 ft pitch. Make sure to save some finger sized stuff for the anchor if you go this way. (I think I used nuts where possible on the arete to save cams for the anchor) Nuts will probably work as well(or better). Also, if you connect the two, make sure you still have your rope ends, and that the rope is not involved in the anchor, it's a stretch. A cool short pitch puts you on the summit.
Oct 29, 2004
Doug Lintz wrote:Does the 4th pitch normally end at the detached block? If it does end there could someone give me some gear beta for the anchor? I didn't find a whole lot there.You can get a decent anchor in cracks to the right of the block. The stance is small and airy. Don't remember exactly what I used, but it was probably finger-to-hand-sized nuts and cams. Belaying here lets you watch your partner on the p4 hand traverse; the Kirsten Russell enjoying the hand traverse at the start of pitch 4. was taken from this spot. You can start p5 up these cracks (easy but way exposed), move left onto Rebuffat's Arete, and continue to the top of the climb in one pitch with a 60m rope.
Oct 28, 2004
Does the 4th pitch normally end at the detached block? If it does end there could someone give me some gear beta for the anchor? I didn't find a whole lot there. The next ledge up (dead tree) seemed like a more appropriate ending for the pitch but I honestly didn't know where the route went upon reaching the block so I stopped there. It was dark fast and nothing looked easier than 5.8 so we bailed to the right along a very rotten band and quickly scooted up a right angling gully/ledge sytem (original Great Zot finish?). Needless to say it was a crappy way to finish 4 awesome Eldo pitches. Helmets are sooooo recommended on this popular climb. Beware the loose stuff.
Oct 28, 2004
On 9/23, Thursday, a biner with a few nuts fell well over 100' between Green Spur and Rewritten from the finger crack above the left angling traverse on the "4th" pitch(above Red Ledge). They didn't make it to the ground. I'm not looking to get them back but want to warn whomever finds them to use at your own risk. I'm not totally versed on the policy for using dropped nuts so am playing it safe. They took quite a fall.
Sep 27, 2004
I guess we've always done the start from Great Zot instead of the real start. pretty cool jamcrack , just a few feet away to the right through a bulge.
Sep 11, 2004
I've led this line a couple of times and found that if you have a 60m rope, you can almost reach the Red Ledge and get a somewhat decent belay in some blocky munge. From here a short simul, or easy 3-4th class stretch brings you to the eye bolts. Take the third pitch as described. With long slings(really long) and thoughtful gear, and a 60m rope, you can link pitch 4 and 5 and just barely get to the top of the pillar (Rebuffat's Arete). From here a very short pitch with good pro goes to the summit. This seems pretty quick as it eliminates two belays (kind of) it ends up being 3 really long pitches, 1 short, and about 50 feet of ledge traversing on easy ground(my partner doesn't lead, and he was comfortable bringing us to the eye bolts, technically his first trad "lead"). We tried the raps once, a bit to the north, got our ropes stuck because the slings/knot were above an edge. I had to climb back up the ropes, and then pull them, drop them to my partner below. Even after the knot was past the lip he still couldn't pull them. I then had to walk off while he rapped the rest. Lots of loose rock in the rap gully, which also pulled loose. We opted to walk off on a subsequent ascent (further north, look for slings for a shorter rap, or the downclimb is easy) This saves you from carrying two ropes and the walk off seemed faster than the raps.
Sep 11, 2004
I'm glad to see people mention the loose rock of Eldo. I've heard many people over the years say they came from out of state with the impression was Eldo was going to be all solid and the led them to occasional carelessness. We should all be adding helmets to our routines and be mindful of rock vigilance. As this is an ultra-intensive climbing-use area i am not opposed to a 'ledge chossing' day in this area. (here come the comments). I agree the ratings are correct but no one has mentiones the tricky (for this rating) little hand traverse on P1 not apparent in the photo. Also, this and Great Zot are the SAME crack for the top half of P1 though Boulder area climbers are very share-oriented. Thanx people - YOU are what brings me back to Eldo!
Jun 12, 2004
Wow, 5.7 doesn't get much better than this - everything above p3 is solid gold. My buddy lead Green Spur as an alternate start, also an incredible route.
May 17, 2004
So, can anyone offer up an account of taking a lead whipper in the first 40 ft of P1 and not getting hurt?
Dec 23, 2003
Just did this route for a second time yesterday. Even though pitch 4 is great, I have to say that Rebuffat's Arete is my favorite part. Looking over to the right all the way down that face is just spectacular. So if you were thinking of staying in the gully to the left because it was easy, move your butt right onto the arete. Mucho gusto.
Dec 21, 2003
I am responding to Matt Robertson's querry regarding the moniker, REBUFFAT'S ARETE. In 1968 Joe O'Laughlin and Steve Turner traversed left from the fifth pitch of the Great Zot and climbed the upper part of the arete. They belayed at the top of the pinnacle and called it a "Rebuffat summit." This was published as the TOWER VARIATION in Pat Ament's original High Over Boulder (1976) and included the conceptual term, a "Rebuffat summit." As it turns out, the real Gaston Rebuffat had been photographed straddled between some buttress and a narrow pinnacle in the Alps of Chamonix. I don't think he ever visited Eldorado Canyon. In 1978 I climbed the whole arete from the fourth pitch of Rewritten to its tiny summit with Tim Hogan and Linda Willing. When I published this outstanding variation in Boulder Climbs (1981) I called the pinnacle REBUFFAT'S ARETE. Well there you have it Matt: the history of REBUFFAT'S ARETE as best I know it. Have fun and be safe. Richard Rossiter
Nov 12, 2003
I've heard attempts to clean the huge detatched refrigerator block above the 5.7 traverse pitch were made but failed. Any info about that available?
Oct 12, 2003
I loved climbing this route. Nice views, great exposure. The 4th pitch was the best part of the overall climb. (Climbed it on 9/16/03).
Oct 1, 2003
...With my 70m cord we had about 20' of rope left after combining the first two pitches; it is longer than 50m. The route can be done easily in 3 pitches with a 60m, but it might require a short simulclimb at the start. Rack: small and narrow cams (possibly doubles in green to orange Alien), singles in hand-sized cams up to #3 Friend, nuts from micro to 2.5". casey
Sep 29, 2003
I led pitch 1 again recently, and I can see why it might be considered dangerous.First, the rock is not that solid. Worse, it is to some extent "booby trapped". There are a couple of really good stopper placements that upon close inspection are actually wedging against loose blocks on one side - hence completely worthless. You can get decent pro but not really every 6' (more like every 15'). Also, the best handholds appear fragile and about to snap off. More savvy climbers will use smaller but more solid appearing handholds. Also, if you go too high before doing the traverse it is harder than 5.7; if you do the traverse low it is probably not even 5.7, and you can sink multiple bomber cams once you get to the crack. Anyway, for Eldo veterans this pitch is nothing to worry about. However, I would not recommend this pitch to someone leading at their limit, and certainly not to someone learning trad leading. For such climbers it is actually much better to do the Great Zot start. Although harder, this has the advantage of better and more straightforward protection. Also I believe below the crux one can move left and then back right to bypass it.
Sep 2, 2003
I climbed this route about a month ago and did the standard 5.6 start. P1. I thought this was easy and did not understand the other complaints. It is standard eldo climbing nothing big if you climb in eldo frequently. I had two ropes and it portected fine. I ran this first pitch all the way up to the red ledge.P2. A nice pitch up to the start of the traverse. P4. I stayed in the flake system (I think the book gives this a 5.8 rating). Felt around that and ended this pitch on a niceledge with a tree.P4 CLimbed the arete and stepped over to the face and finished. Great climb.
Sep 2, 2003
Comments on Rewritten's first pitch: Just do Great Zot start. Somewhat harder climbing, but good gear. As one commenter pointed out above, you can place gear in the crux offwidth section of Great Zot and then move out left and up, then back right to the crack above the offwidth on good holds if you need to. Yes, you can find quite a lot of pro on Rewritten's start, but in my opinon the rock quality was not adequate to trust that gear in a fall. Many of those flakes and blocks you are putting gear behind flex when you pull on them. I would not recommend the Rewritten start to any fledgling 5.7 leader. The upper pitches, however, protect well and offer beautiful and generally clean climbing.
Jul 14, 2003
Hey, AC! Bummer, man! 'Way to wear your helmet, though! This concludes our lesson on "What to Expect On Your Climbing Day in Eldorado". The Zot start, together with the 4th pitch traverse and the airy last pitch make this climb one of my all-time favorites!! BTW-If you choose the Great Zot's P1 to start your Rewritten adventure, I wanna mention that the huge block you'd REALLY want to use below the roof is gonna pull right out soon. 'Careful. (AC, a helmet wouldn't help much if THAT thing came whizzin' down on ya!) Also, can anyone confirm that the eye bolt at the top of Pitch 2 has been replaced/added to? I heard a rumor... Finally-Tonya, Good to see your posting! I'm glad you've seen the light! The arete, as opposed to the bushwhack gully, is the way to go!!
Jul 2, 2003
I did this route last week. I didn't realize that the route went to the left of the shallow cave so I ended up jamming up the cave which was fun. The belay station at the end of P3 is dangerous. I got hit in the head by a loose rock that fell about 50ft. straight into my helmet and then punched a hole though it. Just a minor injury but the moral of the story is to hide in the shallow cave as much as possible while belaying for P4.
Jun 9, 2003
Oh my! I have done this route five times and yesterday was the first time I had done the Rebuffet's Arete. Previously I had climbed just to the left in the rotten band of trees - like an idiot! Don't miss this exciting section as it has some of the best views. I must say, I had a bit of difficulty getting off the arete and back on the wall for the final pitch. Perhaps I made this harder than it is. As for the first pitch, my partner Will led it and sewed it up. Like others have said, if you are good at placing gear, there are a lot of placements. It appeared there are two places to traverse right near the top of P1 to get the the Zot crack, both a high traverse and one about three feet lower. I am not sure which one is easiest.
May 30, 2003
Climbed rewritten for the first time in years and was a bit surprised at the number of stuck pieces up there. Be careful on the last pitch there is a number three trango flex cam jammed. This looks bomber but it's broken, one of the wires is ripped off the cam. Anyway, great climb...
May 28, 2003
This route can easily be led in 3 pitches with a 60m rope by combining pitches 1+2, 3+4, 5+6 *if* you are very careful of ropedrag with runners and location of gear placements. For linking, it would be better to take the origional gully pitch on pitch 5. You might want doubles of gear if you are linking pitches. Gear: nuts (#0.4, stopper-med. hexes) cams (green Alien-#3 Camalot).
Apr 7, 2003
Browsing for some good, easy climbing I notice that many people are 'scared' of the traditional Rewritten start. I've climbed this start probably a dozen times and would definitely agree that the protection is sparse. However, I found the climbing [immensely]enjoyable as one never knows what is to come, and also easy routefinding. That said, I also agree that the start to The Great Zot is a better start. Many people, though, are scared away from this start because it goes at a 'hefty' .8+ (I think). I find this to be sort of an unfair grade, which is the reason I am posting this here. For those who would rather lead .6 than .8+ but find the Rewritten 1st pitch a tad spicy there is another option. The reason the crack up the middle of the wall classically known as the 1st pitch to The Great Zot goes at such a grade is because of the crux-one or two moves jamming the crack out of the nifty cave in the middle of the pitch. This crux is easily avoided by placing a red or orange alien slung long in the crux crack above the cave, and then by climbing left around the cave on remarkably gigantic jugs, running into the end of the traverse from the Rewritten start and joining up again with the easily protected Great Zot crack where a purple or orange alien safely guard one from an injurious or perilous fall. Quite simply put, it's too easy to even worry about, and so straightforward it would scare your mother into thinking she had done everything right in raising you. Of course, you and I know far better ;) happy climbing
Mar 16, 2003
Found gear on Rewritten 10-5-022 small Aliens, a sling, and a locking carabiner were hung from a dead tree at the top of the 4th pitch. It bothered me to remove them as they were obviously placed, but it was getting dark and I could detect no one behind us on the route. If they were meant to stay I am sorry, but I could not think of a reason why they would have been, and I intended to try to find the owner. The Aliens each have an inscription, if they are yours, or you know whose they are, let me know the inscription and we can make arrangements for their return. Carson
Oct 7, 2002
Did this climb this weekend, and last weekend. Haven't done much climbing in Eldo yet, but this climb is by far my favorite. The first time I climbed it we did the Great Zot start, and the second time we did the Rewritten start. I would have to agree with the other comments saying that the Great Zot is a much better start. It's harder but better protected. [The protection on the rewritten start ISN'T awful but] it's no way near as good as the Great Zot start. Also, on pitch 4 after doing the 5.8 variation we went up and left of the normal belay and headed up to a better ledge with a dead tree. From here we combined the next two pitches. Rope drag wouldn't be too bad if you didn't sling the horn at the top of the arete (like I did). Again this is a great climb with amazing exposure. While climbing the arete we saw Denver, it was pretty cool.
Sep 22, 2002
Climbed this route on Saturday in 4 pitches by combining 2, 3 and 5 ,6 without much rope drag at all.
Sep 16, 2002
The first pitch of this route is difficult to find and those who are using the first pitch to get to Swanson's should be careful in route finding. In my climbing of the 1st pitch, I have ended up on Grandmother's Challenge 2nd pitch crux and the Great Zot crux (5.8+ move above the piton). The latter is a common mistake; however, the Grandmother's roof is quite a serious move and is probably considerably less uncommon. Just make sure after you start you look for the features mentioned in the books, website, etc. This is a great climb and well worth pursuing. Happy climbing :)
Aug 18, 2002
On P5 climb the arete all the way to where you'll find a beautiful flake 4-5 feet below the point of the pinnacle on the west side of the very top section of rebuffet's. The exposure here is spectacular. Traverse to the flake, and use it (5) to get onto the north side and do a short, easy 10' down climb on this knife edge to a small alcove. Ben describes the final belay from a tree in the large V on the left, which I recall is a little farther down in the gully. I recommend avoiding that L bailout off the arete, continuing as described (only another 12' on the arete), and belaying from this upper alcove.
Jul 17, 2002
Climbed the route today and don't recall seeing anyone without a helmet on anywhere in the park. Of course if you don't like helmets, health insurance and a good term life policy are recommended for Redgarden wall climbing. As for the route, for me the crux on P4 is above the vertical hand crack. The first move off that high corner in that last 15' to the ledge was a high stretch with a few thin crimpers but not much else. As for the start of P4, the feet on the horizontal hand crack are there. Two of them, which I stemmed from one to the other without any problem. The vertical crack that follows, is a beauty, but not that difficult. Its all right there, and placements are solid. Amazed at the number of poorly placed pieces left behind on this classic.
Jul 16, 2002
Funny how Eldo is probably the one place where a helmet should be a complete necessity with chossy ledges traversing above almost every route (and people walking those ledges constantly). Funny how almost nobody wears one (myself included).
Jul 16, 2002
Casey: yup, that was us. yeah, my partner's voice doesnt carry far at all. she was trying to extricate my nuts (and must have put her whole body into it) and knocked off a couple of blocks at that loose belay niche (end of P3). i heard you yelling, and i thought they came from folks rapping the dirty deed. i gave a good "ROCK" once i heard you (i didnt hear my partner yell anything) and then heard the crash. im glad you heard her; i was pretty scared because they sounded rather large, and i knew there was people racking up below. the loose stuff at eldo can be very scary and dangerous, and care is required nearly everywhere--i believe my friend was rather frustrated with the stuck pro, and let her guard down a little.
Jul 16, 2002
Hey Scott - was your partner the one who knocked down the rocks sometime around the 4th pitch? I was one on Yellow Spur and heard a female quietly shout 'rock!' and I watched nerviously as two football-sized rocks were headed toward someone on the first pitch. He (on the first pitch) didn't hear her but heard me shouting like crazy and ducked just as they flew by about 10-15 feet away from him. Everyone should be EXTREMELY CAREFUL OF LOOSE ROCKS because they are abundant on this route and all the rocks will be funneled down to the base. If you do knock a rock down SCREAM LOUDLY AND REPEATEDLY so if someone is below you are not responsible for their death. The large eyebolt is not bomber because if you check it it is loose and many people do not know to back it up. The cemented eyebolts should never wiggle in their holes because it is a sign of a) the cement is failing or b) the rock is failing. I am glad to see that they but some good bolts in.
Jul 15, 2002
Climbed this yesterday, what a phenominal route! Couple of things: we did the route in four pitches pretty easily and safely--had double 60M ropes, so it helped a lot--esp. on the first pitch. You can protect the first pitch just fine as George says. For the traverse, theres a good small nut at eye level, and I found a good #4 BD micro placement right at my feet (I traversed pretty low). The end of pitch two now has a double bolt anchor equipped with chains and a rap ring--looked very new as there was still rock dust all over. They're set about a foot above the eyebolt--I was pretty surprised to see this as the eyebolt is bomb-proof already! Also, I had to leave two nuts at the belay at the end of P3 (L facing corner and chimney pitch). My partner couldn't get them out. If anyone gets them and feels the need to have some good karma and return them, email me--#3 DMM and #4 BD, with yellow tape.
Jul 13, 2002
My buddy and I climbed it over Memorial Day weekend. Its a very cool route. The bolt at the end of pitch 2 is fine. You can back it up if you are worried. I think we got a little lost after the 4th pitch, we went up a gully with a couple of big trees but then found the 6th pitch to the summit. Amazing views and exposure.
May 30, 2002
Started the route on the Great Zot and met up with Rewritten after P1. The entire climb was excellent. The holds clear to the top were very consistent. It was interesting to see the second on the party before mine on P4 traverse with his feet as opposed to his hands. The exposure up there rocked. Wish I would have remembered to bring my camera!
May 28, 2002
Small nuts are the key to making the first pitch work out...save two to place right before the traverse
May 22, 2002
Agreed this is a *** route. Doing the Great Zot start and keeping gear to a minimum it was possible to link P1 and P2 to the eye bolt. Even with that there was a lot of drag. Did P3 and P4 in the traditional manner to the base of Rebuffet's and again linked the last 2 pitches climbing the Arete, stepping across to the crack and to the summit. Using a supple 9.7 rope and a lot of slings it was very doable in 4 pitches and leaves you more time to play in the park.
Apr 28, 2002
The first pitch is tricky to protect, but it does protect well if you are reasonably experienced at hunting out and making solid placements. People who are inexperienced with placing gear can get in trouble on this pitch, because the placements are tricky and can pull out if not done with care (i.e. using quick draws on wired stoppers). I do not know the details behind the fatal accident on this pitch, but I do not think that alone is a good reason for avoiding it (there has been an accident on nearly every popular climb at Eldo, I would think). It's also possible to traverse in the wrong place and make this pitch harder than 5.7. But the "5.7 start" is definitely quite a bit easier than the Great Zot start.
Mar 7, 2002
At least 1 person has died leading pitch 1. I led it once, I lead a bit harder than 5.7. I don't think I'll lead the first pitch again. A bit harder to the right but Great Zot is a much better choice unless you don't mind Red Rocks.
Mar 7, 2002
Or, if you don't like the first pitch of either Rewritten or the Great Zot (neither of which even approaches 5.10), an even better start is to climb the Green Spur. The Green Spur/Rewritten/Rebuffat's Arete linkup is a fantastic outing.
Oct 23, 2001
Eric,...seriously, you must have been off route. The pro isn't too good, but the first pitch is fairly graded at no harder than 5.7, but anyone who likes good gear and better climbing should start with Great Zot.
Oct 23, 2001
Did this route on 10/21/01. Lots of loose rock on p1. It freakin' sucked. Led 3/4 of the pitch and then let my partner do the rest. There's a runout section with crap pro beneath it (nasty fall) for about 15-20 ft. I would classify it as 2-3 moves of 5.9-5.10 "Dream Canyon sport climbing without a bolt". He climbed up it and the rock basically moved and a couple of pieces fell out. "shudder" P2 was much easier but still had loose rock. P3 was easy. P4 (crux pitch) was a super super nice lead. Hard, but the rock was solid and there was great pro up the hand crack. the traverse over to the crack was nice too. Only downside is your partner can't really see you when you're climbing the crack / at the belay station. Radios might be in order? You can hear him though. bring lots of smaller cams (#0.5 Camalots). I wish I had like 3 yellow Aliens on this climb. I also wish my partner didn't keep using the yellow Alien for his anchors. Use a freakin' nut on the anchor! :) There's a fixed friend in the middle of the crack. My partner spent about 10 minutes messing with it until he discovered it was in fact fixed. :) Serves ya right for using my yellow Alien on the anchor! P5 had super nice exposure on the arete. Totally sweet. P6 was a one move wonder followed by stitching up the rest of the crack. Extend the last #2 Camalot to lessen the rope drag.
Oct 22, 2001
The eyebolt is fine (9/01). A little rattle gives it character. This route has amazing exposure and steepness for the grade. On the upper Rebuffat's Arete (pitch 5), one should really stay on the arete to the pinnacle summit (the ten feet of 5.8 off the belay is easily avoided to the right if wanted); regaining the arete for the final 10-15 meters gives some fine exposure not unlike the top of the Yellow Spur or the Tiger Balm, steeper but it's only about 5.4. Avoid any temptation to go into the gully to the left - this detracts from the route, and the arete is all there, right to its bullet summit. Slinging (or rope-lassoing) the top of the spire provides a memorable and safe belay. Does anybody know the origin of the "Rebuffat's Arete" moniker? I don't believe Gaston ever came to Eldo.
Sep 27, 2001
Be careful at the top of Pitch Two. The large eyebolt has some play in it in May 2001 and might not hold a significant load on the anchor unless it has been replaced.
Sep 25, 2001
This is a great route. The hand traverse on the 4th pitch looks harder than it really is. I agree that the first pitch isn't one you can really sew up. I'll have to try out that alternate belay after the 4th pitch. I've always stopped at the large ledge about 10 feet up and left from the loose block. From there, continuing up the Arete, you can run the last two pitches together without too much rope drag.
Jul 31, 2001
In addition to the better belay spot, George's suggestion also has the added benefit of allowing you to combine the next two pitches as one with a 60m rope. Rope drag is not an issue as long as you either stay on Rebuffat's Arete (recommended anyway), or don't place any gear in the V-slot and pass the tree on the right.
Jul 31, 2001
At the top of p4, if you don't like the looks of the loose block, you can continue 20 ft up and belay on a nice ledge to the right of the arete. There is a good horn above the ledge to sling, and a nice crack at your feet. Fun route!
Jul 31, 2001
Warren Teissier - I found the first pitch to be rated correctly but tough to protect (marginal placements and sparse). The closer you get to the traverse into the crack the sparser the pro.
Jan 1, 2001
Did this again on 5-9-01 and guess who was climbing one pitch ahead of us? The one and only George Hurley himself! What an honor to climb with the FA on a classic route. I also forgot how much I love the 4th pitch. It doesn't get much better than that.
Jan 1, 2001
Great route, but quite a bit of loose rock on it.
Jan 1, 2001
Nolteboy - p.4 is one of the best 5.7s in Eldo.
Jan 1, 2001
- Roof Wall, The
Yeah, "with a little more traffic, this route should clean up nicely" ;-)
Oct 30, 2005
How do you spell loose? R-O-O-F W-A-L-L. Without a doubt, one of the loosest routes I've climbed in Eldorado. You have to test every handhold and foothold and tiptoe across ramps covered with loose rock. Despite this, there is some good climbing on the route. The V-slot on the second pitch is clean, sustained, and solid 9. Due to route-finding difficulties, my partner (Mike Amato) ended up leading a scary 10b variation to the second pitch. The quality of the climbing on this variation is excellent but the protection is terrible. Recommended only if you're solid on runout 5.10 face climbing. Details: Climb the V-slot (9) to a stance in the corner. Instead of angling up left (regular route), climb a finger and hand crack in the right wall up to the roof (8). Place pro in the corner (hexes or 2"-3" cams) and traverse right under the roof to the arete (8). Place a ball nut or small wired nut, climb up 10', and place a #2 Camalot in a shallow slot. This placement is in a cracked block and may not hold a long fall. This is the last protection before the belay. Climb sustained 5.9-5.10 face for 30' on small edges, angling up and left to a brown ramp. Go left to the left-facing corner and belay. I found nothing in any guidebooks about this variation, so we may have done the first ascent.
Oct 29, 2005
- Silver Raven
Very sustained route. Pumpy to place gear. Really fun moves. This route rewards going for it. The long crux sequence from stemming into the thin corner to pulling around the roof is all of 11+ to onsight with only one decent place to stop and shake, and the tips corner above that stays pretty sustained with no moves easier than 10+/11-. To climb the original route, continue up the El Matador-style double stemming corner. Good gear can be had in the upper right side. Pull up and out the right side on hand jams and jugs out a bulge into a flaring handcrack that takes small gear if you feel like placing it. The bolted anchors are just above. A good rack for this route would be: A few medium sized brass offsets 1-2 sets of nuts from #4 to #7 size stoppers 2-3 sets purple to yellow Mastercams or blue to yellow Aliens 2 BD 0.75 C4 1 BD 2 C4 A bunch of quickdraws and slings.
Mar 12, 2017
As previously stated, this climb rules. You can get a good small cam (I used the 0.4 grey Camalot) way out left and around the corner from the main dihedral. You place it after you make the first move above the fixed cam from a good right hand hold. It's kind of a blind placement, but you can eye it up from the ground. Getting this piece allows you to punch through the crux section and not have to place pumpy gear.
Jun 28, 2013
Great climb! A couple of solid nuts (large RP and similarly sized nut) placed together right above the rusty old grey TCU took a lot of the hazard out of the climb for me. I did a few moves on the arete and then got a solid 0.4 Camalot jammed into the back of the slot on the right hand side. A 70m is very useful to have for this and Grand Course unless you want to play a lot of games getting people on and off of the ledge 30' above the ground.
Jun 7, 2013
Spectacular route! The gear is tricky down low, but it is there. I felt like this was easier than other 11+ routes in the canyon. I give it 11c PG-13. At the top, I finished on the right set of anchors, not the Grand Course anchors. This allows for lowering to the pinnacle with a 60m cord. There are now bolted anchors on this route.
Mar 20, 2011
Absolutely spectacular climb. Great position and movement. Linked with the 2nd pitch of Grand Course creates a stellar line. One of Eldo's best!
Jul 30, 2006
I think the "s" on this route is another leftover from the early 80's when there were no micro cams. Going up on this route with a couple sets of TCU's and Aliens feels much more comforting than the thought of using nuts alone. Even with the new gear, this is a challenging lead as the gear is below your feet when climbing through the crux, and is very strenuous to place up high. (OK, maybe it still deserves and "s") This route -- finishing on the .11a crux of Grand Course -- can be led in one long, pumpy pitch from the ground. Wow!
May 19, 2004
The slot that Steve D. mentions at the crux of the Grand Course takes a perfect 3.5 Camalot.
Feb 12, 2002
IF YOU DON'T WANT WAY TOO MUCH BETA DON'T READ THIS I think the pro on this is actually quite good but can be somewhat strenuous to place. From a stance you can clip a fixed bomber small stopper in the corner and then add several more. These protect the initial part of the crux and the highest is no lower than your feet when you place the next gear. A small cam and some stoppers can be placed from a pumpy stance on good holds in the corner. The next corner above takes very small cams well and 'over-your-head' stoppers. If you finish on the GRAND COURSE you might try placing something like a #2 or #3 Camalot in a short slot at the crux-the alternative is a wobbly nut. I didn't have the big cam when I did it a few months ago so I'm just guessing. You can find a rap anchor up and left from the end of GRAND COURSE, it's the top of PARIS GIRL. SILVER RAVEN is a great route-have fun.
Nov 28, 2001
The guide gives this an "S" rating. How good is the pro on the first pitch?
Nov 26, 2001
- Spur of the Moment
The 1/4" buttonhead on P1 was replaced.
Sep 4, 2016
- Sunstar
I guess I'm just duplicating previous comments, but I echo Mike's warning about the loose rock at the end of P1 (if you exit left). This climb is indeed the complete Eldo experience. A few personal suggestions: 1. For P2, stay in the corner (Lost In Space) until the last possible second to traverse to the belay ledge. Don't exit early. 2. The frustrating thing about Sunstar is that P1 is just wonderful. I suggest climbing that, exiting RIGHT through a hand crack, traverse to the Disappearing Act anchors, then rapping. The only thing you'll miss is the exquisite 35 feet of climbing found at the beginning of P4...which turns to crap after that, and where begins the "full Eldo experience". 3. Tony, I agree with your assessment of the route but question your reasoning here: "...and although the rock is a bit "chunky" it's not bad [rock], there are just a lot of loose bricks and blocks." 'Course, since you're my hero, I'll just consider re-adjusting my existing definition of 'bad rock'.
May 3, 2015
Steve's book indicates p1 is 9-. I think the p1 described here is the 1st pitch of Lost in Space. Anyway the pitch we did is the chimney immediately left of Disappearing Act which turns into a corner with a 5.9 section right before the belay (100'). The last pitch definitely has some long runouts and it is not obvious what is the easiest line.
Aug 3, 2013
Awesome route! Did this line yesterday for the second tiime. The last part of the last pitch is a head's up, spicy lead. Loose rock, tricky route/ gear, etc. This is pure adventure climbing!
Sep 25, 2011
Great Route, 3 stars. First chimney pitch is awkward, and Eldo 5.6.... Upper after the tree is not for the faint of heart or like mentioned above for the beginner 5.8 leader. Most of the time the people that are putting down a route like this in Eldo are the ones that haven't been climbing there for a long time. This climb has all the classic Eldo problems to solve/overcome of all longer multi pitch routes in the canyon. I wouldn't run back and do the first couple of pitches, but the upper I've been on twice...and they are great.
Mar 12, 2011
I dunno, we did the first 3 pitches, I headed up the fourth about 50 feet or so, didn't like the looks of it above (the gear, not the climbing, which was no problem). Downclimbed and cleaned my gear, then led out the gulley (exit on the right side), which worked out fine. Levin gives it a PG, how about at least a PG13? Maybe I just wasn't in the right head space, but I'd say you should be ready for adventure climbing on this route.
May 23, 2010
Based on the comments above, I was expecting the last pitch to be more hair raising and runout than it turned out to be. The gear is adequate and the climbing is mostly easier than 5.8. Some of the gear is hard to see, not obvious, but a seasoned Eldo leader should not feel too runout on this pitch. I agree with Tony B. though that this is not a good pitch to push your limits on.
Mar 3, 2010
The top of this one is a bit dicey. If not for the GREAT view at the top I would give it a bomb. A fun but chossy alternative if Rewritten is crowded. 5.8 R IMO.
May 14, 2009
Taking care around a few areas of loose rock, especially at the summit, I found this route to have a lot of fun climbing with adequate pro. The third pitch is a little runout, but what a treat!
Oct 29, 2005
The photo topo for the final pitch is marked wrong. The real top pitch is further left. The right-facing dihedral (shown in the action photo) is of course invisible on the topo photo. The huge black block, marked as being below the final belay, is actually right of, and above, the real belay. That said, my partner and I both thought the route excellent. The description in the Rossiter guidebook works just fine, though it's worth walking up the trail a couple switchbacks with the book, to piece it together from the ground first. A little care prevents any loose rock coming off (neither of us pulled anything off). This climb, with no chalk on its holds, potential loose rock, and definite routefinding issues, is perhaps more challenging than technically harder long routes like Yellow Spur. Classic "obscure tour" material, providing a glimpse of how the [now-polished] classic Eldo route once felt. Of the whole route, the last pitch is by far the best bit, so don't even think of bailing from lower. This pitch is really exposed, sustained, thought-provoking 5.8 R. Requires routefinding skillls, yet is actually pretty direct. Not for the beginning 5.8 leader. And be aware that your belayer is directly under you! The hike off is fine. There is a well-worn trail leading north, then west and up to a small notch about 500 feet away (even some cairns). Then an easy talus trail down to the main trail.
Jun 14, 2004
Combined the first two pitches easily. After that, I climbed over two bulges and to the ledge near the big tree which was not at all straight forward. I then followed the right facing dihedral, pulled the roof, and got into an area that had awkward protection placements(tcu's and aliens in bad rock). Lots of loose rock up there. I would recommend combining the first two pitches and rapping down from the big ledge(two ropes). There are better routes to do in the area. Try 'Darkness til Dawn'.
Mar 21, 2004
Definite two star route..........superb position and climbing on the final pitch. Marred only by the sometimes crispy and lichenous rock on the final upper pitch. However, I did not lead the final pitch so cannot confirm nor deny the other trepiditious leader comments. I would agree that the pro seemed somewhat sparse, but not non existent. I did lead the middle pitch and found it easiest to stay in the dihedral and cut up and left on some stacked blocks to the ledge near the tree. Felt the second pitch protected well enough for a chain smoking .8 leader to feel secure.
Jun 16, 2003
Did Sunstar today. A few comments: It's only 100' to the tree so it makes for a great pitch to combine the first two. On the second pitch (or 3rd), it's best to stay in the corner, turn the two bulges, then angle up to the base of the corner. The climbing is better than it looks and the rock seemed pretty solid. After reading the description and comments for this route, I was expecting more of a hair-raiser. It felt a little R on the last pitch but never S. Overall, I thought it was a great climb. Definitely 2 stars. The last 40 ft. of climbing was a little heady for me, with poor pro and not-so-great rock, but the climbing is probably only 5.6/7 here. Some really good climbing and excellent position.
May 28, 2003
Be very careful topping out on the last pitch. Just after the obscure, difficult to protect section above the small roof, you pull onto a slanting ledge that is littered with death bombs just waiting to be dislodged. Also, we rapped down the giant corner to the right of the route. Plenty of loose rock there as well. Consider walking off, the rap didn't save much time. Overall the route was worth doing, but I doubt I would repeat it.
Sep 29, 2002
I did part of this route a few weks ago starting with [Disappearing] Act as a first pitch variation instead of the chimney. I led up to the tree (pitch 3?) on the face in the picture and my partner started to lead out left on very loose rock. After about 10 feet on his lead my belay hand slipped and suddenly a 200lb. block that was my stance detached from the wall and smashed to the ground in about 4 seconds. Thank God no one was underneath (no one was hurt, but some people on Green Spur and [Grandmother's Challenge] were screaming and frightened). Debris slid down the entire slope and there were chunks taken out of the main trail up to Green Spur from the main piece of the detached block. The tree has some slings on it for rappel, but it would probably be best to stay away from this tree and the rock around it altogether, as there are stll loose blocks ready to come off. The Sunstar route stays to the right of this a little, so it shouldn't be a problem as long as you stick to the main line as shown in the picture although you'll still encounter plenty of smaller sized loose stuff. Cherio!
Aug 21, 2002
Whether this route deserves one, two or three stars may be beside the point, because it will and maybe should continue to have limited mass appeal. Save for the first pitch, which is very nice, the rock on the rest of the route ranges from fractured and loose to a veritable minefield of loose and broken blocks. Routefinding is difficult, and the protection is sparse and difficult to place on the last two pitches. That said, and as Tony mentioned, the route achieves spectacular position and in general the climbing is pretty good. Additionally, it starts high enough up on Redgarden that it offers a more 'remote' feel, if one is into that sort of thing. One last thing - a helmet would be a very good idea. I sent at least one foothold down onto Myke's head. 1.75 stars for me.
Apr 29, 2002
I did Sunstar in fall of 1995 with Steven Gale. In my experience, bad rock does not always equate to a bad climb in Eldo. If anyone out there knows, it's probably me. There are other factors to be considered. Sunstar is at the top end of Redgarden, and has fabulous views and position. The moves are fun, and although the rock is a bit "chunky" it's not bad [rock], there are just a lot of loose bricks and blocks. The area is never clear enough to clean the route very safely. That said, Sunstar is definitely no 3* classic, but it was fun enough to recommend, which according to this site, is a 2* route. 1* is "it was OK, but I wouldn't bother again" type of thing. One final note: THIS ROUTE IS NO PLACE TO PUSH YOUR LIMITS. You could be seriously injured by a fall, and escape would be problematic, at best.
Apr 29, 2002
Two stars might be a wee bit generous, even by your description with all the "loose rock" and "chossy" elements to your description. We did it a few years back in less exciting conditions, so we might not have gotten full value. One star IMHO.
Apr 27, 2002
- Swanson Arete
If I understand the beta correctly, it's advising you to belay at the large coniferous tree in the dihedral below the summit block. I wouldn't, because the base of that tree is crunchy and dead af. Don't get me wrong. The tree is alive, but its base is halfway decayed from too many belays there. I built a gear anchor a little higher in the arete, and that seemed to work out fine.
Dec 3, 2017
Left a double length sling and locker on a tree on the 2nd pitch of the Arete (3rd pitch from the base of the chimney) after bailing due to a broken wrist. Both in good condition. Not my first time up there, but a freak accident with my shoe slipping off my heel led to a gnarly fall, catch. All pro held. Caught by a little 00 Metolius Mastercam.
Mar 25, 2017
We climbed this on Monday, and we should not have listened to the locals who told us NOT to do The Dirty Deed's rappel. In hindsight, it would have made for a much easier end to our day. We ended up rappelling off to the North (leaving behind two cordalettes and a locker slung around a massive boulder), and then scrambling up and around to gain the walk off trail from the top of Rewritten. Pretty fun climb, minus some loose stuff down below. The dihedral on the last pitch was awesome!
Mar 16, 2017
Climbed the Swanson Arete today and wanted to add my 2 cents regarding the descent. We carried a 70m rope and, from the top of Lumpe, made 1 rap south to the Lumpe/Tower 1 col, then 2 raps west down to the red ledge (three or mild downclimbing if you have a 60m rope), then 2 more raps down the west chimney on bolted rap stations. We found the descent to be pretty straightforward and easily done with 1 rope. While we enjoyed having the 70m, the group behind us had a 60m, and it was fine.
Oct 16, 2016
This was a great intro to multi-pitch. The route has some exposure, steep views, huge belay ledges, and great protection. We did this route in 3 pitches with a 60m rope. P1 was a rope stretcher through the chimney (the chimney was fun, but Great Zot looked way better, start there if you can!). We passed two rap anchors along the way and had just enough rope to anchor off a tree on the Red Ledge. P2. A short pitch to the first big tree after Red Ledge. I should have gone a bit further, as starting P3 from this tree will use all, and I mean all, of your 60m rope. P3. By far the best pitch, airy, finger cracks, hand jams, liebacking, even a bulge/roof to pull over, fun, and it seemed well-protected. Descent: 6 raps with a 60 m rope. 1. There is a blue sling with a rap ring and carabiner on the tree on the southeast side of the summit. Do a very short rap to the corner of Tower One where you will find tan webbing on a chockstone with a rap ring. 2. Knot your ends for this rap, it's a full length that just barely reaches a slung tree. 3. Another very short rap, maybe 20 feet, to a tree. 4. A full length rap to the red ledge, scramble north to the upper bolt anchor at the chimney. 5. Rap to the lower bolt station. 6. Rap from this lower bolt station down to the ground.
Sep 6, 2016
From the slung fallen tree (option #2 in the description above), you can rap with a single rope. We did it with a single 70m and had lots left. A single 60m would probably work. Made hauling up two ropes a real bummer to find that out. There are multiple chains and another slung tree with tat and rings.
Sep 10, 2015
Good multi-pitch with a lot of options for route selection. West Chimney we started by doing Great Zot the first 20 feet or so. Getting up the chimney section I had to push against one wall with my feet and the other side I was pressing with my stomach. I had a small pack on too, so this was the most viable. Red Ledge is easily travelled without a rope - if you're comfortable with it. 2nd pitch - start of Swanson's Arete - had some interesting moves and getting up to a tree on the west side of an arete is a good stopping point. Last pitch was the best, and you top out higher than Yellow Spur finish. Rapping after the first rap down the 30 feet to the notch (off the pine tree) was slings off the notch and then a tree to the Red Ledge. If you have two ropes, the rap down the West Chimney can be easily done.
Jun 29, 2015
Easier even than expected. Last pitch might be 5.5, the rest is dead easy. Less gear than I was thinking there would be, but we may have been a little off route. Last pitch was somewhat fun, but the rest was fairly forgettable. More loose rock than a few seasons ago in the west chimney.
Jan 21, 2014
The last pitch was fun, but the others leading up to it were nothing special. Overall I didn't feel as though it measured up to its "classic" rating. All in all an enjoyable day, especially with the Great Zot start and the East slabs descent.
Jul 15, 2013
Rope pull on the summit rap anchors is incredibly difficult. I've never had such a hard time pulling a rope through due to friction. I don't recommend the east slab "walk off" descent. The way we went basically was the equivilant of downclimbing the Second Flatiron, with some mid-5th class and very sketchy moves in places. Very long descent. This is not the easy or fast way down. Do it once and rap any other time. There is also a TV-sized block at the east end of Red Ledge. Probably just a matter of time before it goes down West Chimney.
Jul 30, 2012
As of 5/5/12, there was webbing around a large block with rap rings to get down to the saddle between T1 and Lumpe. It all looked pretty new. There was also some older webbing/rings tied around a small tree. The tree rappel looked a little more suspect.
May 6, 2012
Having soloed both the W Chimney and Rewritten (not quite ready to try the Great Zot start) I found Rewritten to be less creepy, but then again I'm not big on polished rock. Both P1 of Rewritten and Swanson's have (avoidable) chossy bits. The arete was mellow 5.5. I personally like the E Slabs descent. It gives the descent an alpine feel, it's scenic, and it dumps you off close to the entrance. Plus you get to practice downclimbing.
May 6, 2012
Did this today after worrying over the descent for entirely too long. Came up the West Chimney, which was a pretty decent climb. All the way to Red Ledge just below the start of Swanson's with a short unroped walk to the belay. Pitons in the chimney were well placed and appeared solid. We went from the start of Swanson's to the summit in one long (~180') pitch and one short pitch with a 60m rope. Belayed the second pitch from a poor sitting stance in the open book - should have belayed 30ft lower, at the ledge with the two trees, but oh well. I did not find the climb to be difficult or run-out. Lots of hollow sounding flakes. I placed maybe a half-dozen pieces on any of the three pitches, and rope drag was never an issue. Did not place anything bigger than a 2.5 Friend. For the descent, we rapped off the small tree on the south side of the summit to the notch between T1 and Lumpe, scrambled 5 minutes down the East Slabs, turned right (south) at the Ruper saddle, and turned right (west) to up and over the notch in the Italian arete, and rapped 100' off the chockstone anchors to the upper ramp, then up and over to the west and rapped twice (90') to the Vertigo ledge. The Levin description is perfect. Much cleaner and safer looking than the Dirty Deed or West Chimney raps, and saved my knees from the east slabs. Took about an hour from the summit back to the Redgarden Trail. Apparently this is not the typical descent because someone climbing on Chockstone did not believe me when I said that we had come from Swanson's. It's not that far. Fantastic outing for the exposure and views, the climbing itself is easy. Easier than Calypso or Wind Ridge, IMO.
Jul 27, 2011
I concurr. This route is not a 5.5 the way Boulder Direct or Breezy on Wind Tower are a 5.5, it's a notch or two above Fandango on the first Flatiron, and bares no resemblance to a gym 5.5. There is no 5.5 start option to get to the Red Ledge. The arete isn't vertical, but it's not solid jugs either. There are some tricky hand and foot combo moves on it with exposed fall potential between stretches safe enough to run the rope out, although in most cases it is possible to back off any crux move. I oddly felt safer leading Gambit a few weeks ago than Swanson yesterday. Will see if a second run up in a few weeks changes my first impression.
Jun 20, 2011
This route is a Classic in Eldorado Canyon, but it requires some good route finding ability to keep the grade at "only 5.5." It is easy to get onto some harder climbing. The original line takes the W. Chimney start, as described above. I've only done the route once, and thought that there were other climbs significantly nicer. It's worthy of---maybe 2 stars---at best.
Sep 13, 2010
from the top of the West Chimney P1, make sure to go up first and then right to the Red Ledge. Twice now I have inadvertently traversed straight right along a large ledge that I thought was the Red Ledge, then started from the high point of that ledge (as Rossiter describes)up a bushy corner to the Red Ledge. Today my partner then climbed straight up a small dihedral, joining the route at about 60' above the Red Ledge 80' above the belay. We called it "Sara Lee" 5.7.
Apr 11, 2010
Climbed the route last week. After climbing the West Chimney we scrambled up the Red Ledge to where the route proper starts and climbed the entire route in two rope stretching pitches (60m rope). Lots of lose rock on 1st pitch of arete. Great exposure on the last pitch. It's a shame you have to climb the West Chimney to get to this route. Highly recommended for Eldo newbies!
Nov 13, 2009
Yesterday, 11/19/07, I led Swanson's Arete again (Lisa Roth was my team mate), but this time with a 70 meter rope. As I had hoped, on the rappels down the messy Dirty Deed chimney, the 70m rope allowed me to get to the Red Ledge with just two rappels. The first rappel just got me to a tree on the left (north) side of the chimney, and the second to the Red Ledge. On the second rappel, the rope ends were about a foot above the Red Ledge, but just long enough for me to touch down and build an anchor. The last time I was up, I used a 60m rope, but it requires three rappels. So the 70m rope eliminated one rappel setup with the attendant savings of time.
Nov 19, 2007
James, I guess a concern I have is the second rap & 50m single: "2) Find the slings at the top of the West Chimney and rap ~100' down the gully to a big tree with slings." With a single 60m you almost to come out of the system to grab the rap slings on that tree, it's a difficult position to attain. I don't see a single 50m working, but maybe I'm missing a station that could work??
Jun 6, 2007
Descent Beta: You can get down the West Chimney (the gully to the north) easily with one 60m (and probably with a 50m rope but I've never tried). 1) On the summit is a shrub, usually with slings. Ignore it. Look about 20' down on the northeast corner for two fat Metolius rap bolts. Rap ~90' to the saddle between Lumpe and the Middle Buttress. 2) Find the slings at the top of the West Chimney and rap ~100' down the gully to a big tree with slings. 3a) Rap ~90' to slings on a small tree on the right side of the gully, then rap ~65' to the Fixe bolts on the left end of the ledge. OR 3b) Rap 100' and downclimb about ~10' of easy 5th class and then some 3rd/4th class to the Fixe bolts on the left end of the ledge. 4) Rap ~80' to another set of Fixe bolts. 5) Rap ~80' to the ground. Use care - there is a lot of loose rock. If there are parties below consider doing the walkoff instead.
Jun 6, 2007
Did this route today and it was a lot of fun! P1 onsight Great Zot, pitch 2 let the partner lead the first pitch of Swanson's up to the ledge, then I got the gem last pitch to the top, and it was great going far out right after getting pro in the the roof (incredible exposure). The chimney was wet today so after seeing another group on the Great Zot and having climbed that chimney once last week we would be retarded not to have given it a shot. We rapped off a tree into the notch between Swanson's and Tower 1 to the south then made a single 60m rap off a slung block almost not making it to the tree (slight downclimb on to the tree and down and around the tree to where the rap rings are on the slings). Then another single 60m rap left us with 10-15 of easy down climbing which got us to the Red Ledge. Also, it could be run in two pitches with slight simul-climbing and different anchor spots or a 70m might do it.
Apr 9, 2007
Definitely a great route. If you combine the first two pitches of Rewritten (5.7) and then combined 2 pitches of Swanson's you can easily do this climb in 3 pitches including approach climb to the red ledge. We did it in 4.
Apr 2, 2007
Did this route last spring with the Rewritten start. Wasn't very impressed by the route overall. Can be a bit confusing on route finding for the new leader. While the last 30 feet were really fun climbing, wasn't worth it IMO.
Jul 14, 2006
Liked the route immensely. We did it in 3 pitches from the ground, climbing near the "ancient variation" to the left of the arete for a p2 that started at the top of G. Zot and ended 40' above the tree at a beautiful flat triangular belay seat with stunning views all around. A 70m rope probably helped although 60m might reach. Descent was fine rapping off to the NE and then wandering N. to reach the notch for descending back down U. Redgarden. Don't think it took more than 1/2 hour to get back to packs this way, and as an added bonus it's a nice meander through rock gardens.
May 8, 2006
Excellent moderate climb. I linked the second and third pitches together using a 60m rope. Had about 15ft. of rope left. A little more runout than I was expecting, but on easy ground.
Apr 2, 2006
Best 5.5 in the State - the West Chimney is underrated as far as a quality climb, keep the whole thing 5.5-6 and get a good chimney pitch in also (you would need an early start so you aren't climbing when parties are descending this chimney). Watch for loose rocks along the Red Ledge. On Lumpe, the mid-belay ledge (the next stop above the Red Ledge) has a variant to the right that goes to a flake which has a detached "feel" to it; I wouldn't use it for an anchor. The final 50M on this route is what makes this route an all-time 5.5 classic.
Jan 24, 2006
Easily the best 5.5 around, seriously! About the way down; I've done both the hike and the rappel. I would say they take about the same amount of time. The rap down the Dirty Deed's chimney didn't seem to have have that much loose stuff to me so I don't mind rap'ing there. But if there's a line to rap; don't even bother; take the East Slabs trail; you'll be down an hour before they will :).
May 4, 2005
About the DESCENT: I hiked off to the north and it wasn't too bad, walking all the way, and I didn't need a rope or an hour to hike the E. Slabs and return to the base. Does no one else do this?
Jul 28, 2004
A great classic. The reasons for this may be helpful. It is a great intro to Eldo rock because, though long, it puts you in a great position, gives you a test piece first pitch in Rewritten or Great Zot (harder crux but less sustained overall, better pro and often faster), tours you past and near other classics, provides intermittent challenges for a 'beginner' climb or rest day and a sense of climbing history.
Jun 12, 2004
Did this route couple of days ago and it made for fun enjoyable day. Unfortunately, we got a late start and there as a long queue of climbers waiting to do Rewritten so the first pitches of that and the Great Zot were plugged up, so we reluctantly headed up the infamous West Chimney with our helmets secure on our heads. It is not a classic pitch by any means with some weird stuff in it but really not that bad, though I would rate it a challenging 5.5 much like the rest of the climb. Once on the Red ledge it was easy to finish the climb in two long pitches with about 25 ft of rope left on our 60 meters each time and rope drag was not a problem. The rap down the Dirty Deed is not that much fun and I was pretty amazed our rope did not get stuck. Since it appears there are other ways to rappel down, I for one will be looking for them if there is a next time for this climb. This is a classic climb with great views and some fun interesting climbing along the way.
Apr 18, 2004
Swanson's Arete is a good beginner route thats fortunately or unfortunately located after a more difficult start. If you can lead 5.8, the Great Zot is defintely the way to go. Rewritten is an excellent route, but Id say the Great Zot start to reach the red ledge is better. At the top of the first pitch of Great Zot, traverse right along the clean face, then up the loose section for 20ft, you'll see a big tree to your right. The route starts here behind this tree and goes straight up. Stay right of the true arete for better pro. 2 pitches to the top. If you rap the Dirty Chimney, use one rope for the first and second rap stations since their short , the third it seemed you'd need two ropes to reach the ground. Lots of loose rock in the chimney so take your time. The slings at all 3 stations looked good although the tree at the summit you rap from seems a little scary. Enjoy.
Sep 6, 2003
Approach: I still find it interesting that this classic 5.5 route begins on the Red Ledge, which is only accessible via one of several harder first pitches. I've climbed this using both the Rewritten P1 start, and the "unrecommended" West Chimney P1. The chimney is actually an interesting pitch - some real chimney climbing, among other things. However, it *is* in the main rap route and there are plenty of loose rocks, so I'd avoid it unless you can be sure there's no-one above. The climb: From Red Ledge, this just two 50m pitches. I've always climbed directly up the arete until you have to move around some overhanging stuff at the top. The first belay off of the Red Ledge almost runs out the rope, but a nice spot with a couple trees appears to the right, and just in time. Protection seemed very good to me, and the grade seemed a nice, consistent 5.5. This route has the view and exposure usually reserved for higher graded climbs. Getting down: I've done the East Slabs a couple times. I can see why gym-trained crag climbers don't like it, but if you have any interest in mountaineering, it's great training. (OK, maybe it would suck if you had to do it in the dark, or in the rain.) Of course, it implies you climb with your pack since you dump out in front of Wind Tower, and don't even think of taking off your rock shoes until you're off the slabs. I've also rapped down the route shown in the picture, down the Dirty Deed gully to the south. DO NOT get your rope caught on the rap anchor on the "shrub" at the top of the climb (like we did.) It's probably best to downclimb south to the top of the gully and rap from there.
Oct 29, 2002
This is probably my favorite 5.5 of all times. Great fun. I didn't notice a runout. Of course, this climb is a hard 5.5- it was put up in 1960, and Eldo doesn't sport easy routes. Loose rock was there, but a little thought and it is all easily avoidable. I thought the clean dihedral was awesome, make sure to bring little nuts or a small Alien- they came in handy. We planned on Rewritten, but it was taken, if this happens to you, the first pitch of the Great Zot to Swanson's seemed a great outing. Never having been on Redgarden before and only having one rope along, we scampered down the East Slabs, which I found to be an interesting finish, but I wouldn't do it again.
Oct 11, 2002
This is a pretty good route. We did it in 2 pitches from the Red Ledge; 3 seems pretty absurd as each pitch would be really short! there is [definitely] a runout section (basically the last half of P2 as per Rossiter and the topo photo above) but if you choose your path wisely, the climbing is very easy. the path of least resistance for us led away from the arete (after P1 Rossiter) and up to a big tree above a large flake, with a nice ledge for belay--watch out for rope drag. My partner and I were kinda disappointed with the route...then we got to the last 30 feet, where the climbing is truly fun! This is a fine finish--a nice dihedral to a steep crack, then a cool little jaunt around the corner (see 1st pic below), and the top!! The rest of the route is pretty forgettable, but don't miss this last section, and the summit is way cool too!
Sep 16, 2002
Be careful of rope getting stuck on summit rappel to rap station between Lumpe and Tower one. May be more appropriate on summit to rappel to the tree that is on route on Swanson's or downclimb to rap station between Lumpe and Tower one. Overall, better to take the station between Lumpe and Tower one, but, just be careful of rope getting stuck on rocks on this very short rappel from summit.
Sep 16, 2002
Wishing bad karma upon another reeks of recursiveness. Maybe they really, really needed that 'biner for a good cause. Probably not, but it's remotely possible.
Aug 8, 2002
Really cool beginner route. Although it kind of sucks that there is not an easier first pitch, it would make a great early lead. I almost got struck by lightning on top a couple of weeks ago and have a beef with somebody. The rappel anchors on top were totally funky, one old sling and a red one that was too short and tied to the rappel ring via another sling and an overhand knot!!! To avoid being barbequed I extended the red sling with a biner and rapped to my salvation. I went back last week with a long piece of webbing and some cheapskate had swiped the biner and retied the overhand!!! I don't care about my four dollar biner but I think it is very uncool to leave behind an unsafe anchor, especially on a beginner climb where someone could assume it to be an established and safe rap anchor. Anyway, enough of my rant, the anchor now has a brand new piece of webbing and that cheapskate has some bad karma coming his way!!
Aug 7, 2002
I was doing Swanson Arete on 6/29/02, and I saw bolted anchors in the West Chimney. The first set was about 60 feet off of the ground and the second set was about 80 feet above that. When I moved right onto the arete I couldn't see them any more. I was just wondering if this was a rappell route and if it could be done with a single 50 meter rope. The East Slabs descent SUCKS!!!
Jul 5, 2002
Okay, so I took Intro to Rock through Colorado Mountain School last weekend, and this was what my guide, Mark Hammond, took me on! Never been climbing in my life.... I lost my nerve at the beginning, but got over it with the help of some complete strangers on a parallel route, who took the time to talk me through a tough part (for me). I really appreciated that. Once I got going though, it was a total gas! By the time I was done with this climb, my confidence and enthusiasm soared. I can't wait to try this new sport some more. Oh, about the route- I don't know what to say, as this was my first time. Lots of loose rock to avoid kicking down on the rappel... What a view !
May 23, 2002
Another variation that Rossiter listed was the 5.8 arete. The normal "Swanson's Arete" is very little like an arete route- you can't even reach the arete, or even get near it for most of the standard route. The variation of which I speak is to actually climb the arete. This is about 5.8 and only deviates from the arete at the big roof near the top, where it goes out to the right to avoid the roof. Although this variation is S/VS, and is basically void of protection in some places, there are reasonable belays.
Apr 30, 2002
There is an ancient variation to P1. It is left of the arete and goes at 5.7? or so. Find 2 pins to start and follow a broken slot system to a 3rd pin. Join Swanson's at the tree (traditional top of P1). Anyone know the name? You can also rap from the tree just below the top (requires short down lead to this tree) 120 ft to a big tree (with a rope, cord, 2 slings and 2 rap rings) slightly left of the gully of Dirty Deed. Rap 140 ft to the Red Ledge and another big tree (with slings and 2 rap rings). Rap 160 ft to the deck. Rope pull and this last one can be tough.
Apr 30, 2002
This route can easily be done in two pitches from the Red Ledge. Staying directly on the arete is supposed to make it harder, like .7 or something, and with less gear. With a single 60meter, rap twice (almost reaching the Red Ledge-a short down-scramble) from trees and then rap down the loose chimney with bolted anchors to the right of Rewritten/Great Zot's Pitch 1. Total of 4 raps.
Apr 18, 2002
It looks like someone submitted an application to the Eldo Fixed Hardware Review Committe to have Bolts placed on the Dirty Deed Rappel. AMEN! As I mentioned before in my previous comments to this route the current anchors are a nightmare and an eyesore, I hope this application is approved and access from all of Redgarden Wall is made the better for it. Please submit an endorsement to climbingboulder.com/communi….
May 30, 2001
I did this climb this fall and thought it was much harder than 5.5. I felt it was much harder than the Dome in the canyon 5.-5.6 or Calypso on Wind Tower 5.6. I took a more direct line, starting from the West Chimney, and rejoining the route at the big ledge, where I made the first belay. There was pleanty of pro on this pitch but the rock was all loose and a little manky. The second pitch was the best of the climb, a good crack with solid gear. The third pitch had some runout sections, and it wasn obvious to move right into the notch. Rather than go the 15-20 feet without pro, I opted to go left and sling a tree, then move into a right angling crack before dropping into the notch. This added huge rope drag and necessitated a fourth pitch at a tree. The fourth pitch was super short. Anyone who can get my nut out of the crack around the roof can have it! Getting off was the hardest part of the climb. Getting down from the top is probably fifth class. I wasn impressed with the rap anchors so I took the east slabs decent. It felt a little like decending the third flatiron unroped. There were two short fifth class boulder problems to the decent. Either way it seemed like a bitch. Overall a good climb, but certainly a step up from the Dome and Calypso, both in terms of commitment and technical difficulty in places.
Jan 1, 2001
Descending from routes in this area is a bitch, yet if you know where the Pigeon Crack rappels are, you can save yourself quite a bit of hassle on the descent. This rappel is to left of Ruper (when facing it) and goes down a chockstone-filled chimney from two new big Metolius bolts. This rappel with a single 160 foot rope reaches a small ledge just off the upper ramp from which you can downclimb. From here you are are right on top of the Veritgo raps and can reach the ground easily. By far, this is the quickest and least annoying way of getting to the base of such climbs as the Yellow Spur or Swanson's Arete. Descending the East Slabs sucks.
Jan 1, 2001
- Tower Corner Exit
- Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn
This variation is wicked fun.... I liked it almost more than DtD. Staying in the dihedral at the top is run out and much harder than any part of DtD, but it is easily avoided by finishing on DtD.
Sep 7, 2011
I don't think this is what Rossiter is describing as the original Green slab. For both the original and Green Slab direct, he says "Climb a steep slab." The Erickson Rocky Height guide says this of the regular Green Slab: "...begins in the same spot [as the direct] but traverses right before the roof...." In any case neither the variation described here or the original Green Slab to the left gets any traffic. This variation should get a lot more traffic. The original Green Slab perhaps not.
Mar 12, 2006
I think this may be the original start to Green Slab, Rossiter's text is somewhat ambiguous as to which 5.8 dihedral you start with.
Mar 11, 2006
Does anyone know the name and history of this route just left of Darkness 'til Dawn?
Mar 10, 2006
- Waiting Room
I was trying to do this route by following the line drawn in Steve Levin's guidebook but was apparently too far to the R -- chossy and 5.5.
Aug 22, 2017
I did this route this past weekend as an alternate start to Hot Spur (you know it's crowded in Eldo when you have to wait to get on Hot Spur). It's a little rough around the edges in places but has some pretty nice climbing up higher.
Sep 27, 2016
It's nice to have a #3 or #4 for the belay. There is a nice crack on the left wall, and the rest of the ledge is a shattered mess. A #2 or a large hex might fit as well... Just save something large for the belay. Also: In case you are not up for the Northumberland Crack finish, it is possible to escape to the left at the top of this route. Maybe all the way to the walkoff but at least over to the Hot Spur.
Mar 26, 2011
- Warm and Fuzzy
- West Chimney
This pitch was great.... I led it this morning, as my first trad lead in far too long. I'm not sure if it was the rope drag speaking, but I think 5.6 is a fair rating for this. The moves exiting the chimney feel stout, especially when you aren't totally confident in your ability to place pro. I like that the crack swallows pro for the most part: I encountered two fixed pins and two "fixed" nuts. The climbing had good variety, and altogether, this was a great intro to leading at Eldo.
Jul 13, 2017
Climbed this with my son for Father's Day 2017. I'm not a great fan of chimneys, but still an OK climb. If you do like chimneying, you will like this route. Rewritten and Great Zot had climbers lined up and competing for belay space, so we climbed pitch 1 of West Chimney to get to the Red Ledge (to climb Swanson's Arete). My son did a great job leading this & I found the route harder (and a bit sketchy in spots) than I expected, but this is probably because we rarely climb big chimneys. I traversed over and climbed about 20 feet of Great Zot & felt it was much easier. Swanson's was pretty mellow after the approach. I had knee replacement surgery 3 months ago and haven't climbed in ages, so I wanted to climb something easy but long, & it was a fun outing overall.
Jun 19, 2017
There is also a TV-sized block at the east end of Red Ledge. Probably just a matter of time before it goes down the West Chimney.
Jul 30, 2012
Found some gear by the little tree at the top of the chimney. Anyone lose something?
Aug 29, 2011
I climbed this as the "approach" to Swanson's arête and found it a good way to approach at a grade similar to that of Swanson's. Good climbing, good enough pro and a fun but too short section of chimneying. Leading it with a pack isn't too bad as you can just clip it to your harness for the 5 feet of chimneying. I made it all the way to the Red Ledge right below Swanson's Arête in one pitch with double 60m ropes. I think my belayer climbed up a few feet to accomodate this.... I can see why people are calling it 5.5. I feel like it might be an unsustained 5.6, but you can decide for yourself. I gave it two stars as it is not sustained and there is minimal actual chimneying on it. Enjoy!!
Jul 22, 2011
I actually thought this was a fun chimney. I lead it today as the first pitch of Swanson's Arete and I would say is was no harder than the rest of the route which goes at 5.5. There is some loose rock, but not too much and it does take pro well (there are also two solid looking pitons along the way and 2 sets of bolts for rappels along with plenty of cracks). That being said I only gave it one star because of the risk factor. DO NOT climb this route if anyone is rappelling from above. The chimney continues all the way to the top and doubles as the rappel route to get off the top (as an alternative to the walk down). There was no one below us or in the vicinity so we rapped down. On the second rap, pulling the ropes dislodges one of the many loose rocks in the upper chimney and it went crashing all the way down. I was trying to be really careful and there was no one below us, but seeing the rock shatter in after dropping 50 feet into the chimney made me decide never to climb that route if there was any chance of anyone rappelling above.
Jul 24, 2008
A much better pitch than it's generally given credit for. As noted, more like a technical mountaineering pitch, and there's some real-by-god chimney climbing at the top that's thoughtful and fun. Also as noted, the gear is not plentiful, but I've never felt too badly run out. I think Rossiter's guide gives this a 5.5, but maybe a bit harder.
Mar 26, 2007
As per Mark Nelson's comment, this route lost a grade of difficulty for me from the time I climbed it with a camelback (what was I thinking?!)
Sep 6, 2006
Agree w/ Ron in the route description. There is a variety of climbing offered on this (first long) pitch providing good practice in shifting balance as you stem. The finish chimney section (best part of the first pitch) offers a large nut placement then to a friendly foot ledge & fun chimney to bolts. I would offer that this is a hard technical mountaineering-type pitch. It is quite fun but generally underrated in relation of being a good climb because of its neighbors. Difficult to climb this with a pack or camelback, this (first) pitch is fairly cleaned of loose rock, but be mindful that a rock will fall on everyone staging for the other climbs (& also where your belayer is standing). I generally get an early start to try and avoid any mishaps when climbing this feature.
May 8, 2006
- Zot Face, The
A fun pitch, with some route-finding, loose rock, and slightly runout pro. From the belay by the tree at the end of P4, traverse right about 25' to a left-facing corner system. Pass some loose rock, turn a small overhang (5.7), and continue more or less straight up flakes and small corners for another 80'. When the corner peters out, traverse back left 25' to a ledge with two small pine trees. Done this way, there's no move harder than 5.7 on the pitch. It's also possible to climb straight up from the tree atop P4. This variation is about 5.6, is also a bit runout, and ends at the same ledge with two small trees. This is a faster way to get to the top if weather is threatening, but the climbing isn't as good as the standard variation.
May 8, 2006
Jesse, it sounds like you may have gone straight up instead of doing the traverse, which looked very doable, both from below and from the belay ledge a few feet from the top. If this is the case, it looked nicer than doing the traverse and is probably the more obvious line. You'd know if you did the traverse, especially if using single ropes, since it goes 15-20ft left.
Jun 17, 2004
Now that I'm reading the description others are writing, I may have been on route for the first section of the last pitch. Definitely found the first left-facing dihedral, but may or may not have found the traverse. Didn't climb anything 8+, but the gear was a little sparse and the rock a little loose.
Jun 9, 2004
The caption on the picture of RO below should read p4, not p5. Sorry. To find where to traverse back right on p4, look for the place where the handcrack opens up into a kind of hollow, maybe only 30- 40 feet from where the crack starts. It is a bit run- out to the belay, but I found it easy, similar to the last 50 feet of Ruper. Using double ropes eliminated rope drag completely, and nicely protected the second on the run- out bits.
Apr 5, 2004
At what point on P4 do you divert up towards the little tree? When I lead this pitch a few years ago, I took it all the way to the arete on the corner before heading back right on the ramp to the tree. As I recall, the weakness near the end of this traverse, was either not obvious, or looked too sketchy and runnout...
Apr 2, 2004
Clean it during the winter...
Apr 1, 2004
Okay, specifics: At the belay on top of p4 (the sweet traverse left, then back right), there is an obvious overhead flake with a crack behind. I stuck a 1.75 (green) forged friend in it and gave a tug-- the crack opened and creaked like an outhouse door (i.e. it was shit). The next pitch is littered with attached and unattached chunks of various sizes, as is the last. My partner mentioned tugging on an alien and opening up a flake on p5. As this route is considered popular, I was surprised to see so much loose junk. Now that's not to say that it is all bad; there is plenty of good pro on this route. IMHO, it's too bad that this face is above such a crowded base, because the climbing might be much more enjoyable after a good cleaning. I think that the fact that it is still a bit messy is a testament to how careful most people are up there. Rossiter's book lists no less than six variations to his ZF route. Maybe there is a better way? Once you step around the roof on p5, it looks like you could go almost anywhere...
Mar 31, 2004
Edward.5.11+ trad? Never knocked a rock off?? Can't just take gym climbing to Eldo??? Wow Edward, what ARE you talking about?
Mar 31, 2004
You're right Russell, my comment wasn't fully informed. I made an assumption and we all know what can happen when we head down that path.I based that guess on the fact that you posted the day of the rocks falling off the face, with no other posts about the route for a year and a half and no other posts about loose rock. Look at your original post. I think you might see why I might have thought that it sounded like you were speaking from experience, rather that in a theoretical way, about flakes being pried off. My bad on accusing you or your partner wrongfully. Guess I still had a little adrenaline from the near death experience when I posted. BTW-I agree with you about helmets. I was wearing mine that day as was my partner. We weren't the "dumbasses" at the base, we were on route when the rocks came down. Way bigger than a baseball, more like a human head. Regarding Ament's advice: Good stuff, but much easier in his day to avoid climbing in an area with another party on the wall. Hey, there were probably only a dozen parties in the whole canyon on nice days when he penned that tidbit.
Mar 31, 2004
Wow, Mark, you are obviously a talented and clever climber. 511+ trad! How long have you been climbing? and I guess never pulled or knocked a rock off a route - fantastic! I'm glad you decided to share your advice, because thinking about it you are right. It's probably not a good idea to knock rocks off ledges and pull off flakes. They never really told us about that aspect of the sport when we were learning in the gym. I guess you can't just take gym climbing straight to Eldo. I'm gonna tell my friends about that. Hey, perhaps you'd show us the ropes? Well I was having a lot of fun throwing rocks down on people, and Eldo is such a good place for it - lots of loose stuff. Much better than Joshua Tree! You really made me realize I should be more careful, because if it wasn't for us gumbies you wouldn't need to wear helmets 'coz no-one would be dropping shit on your head. Sorry man!!
Mar 29, 2004
Uninformed accusations, to be sure. Not a pebble was sent down by me, nor by my partner that morning. I do recall, however, that some rock came down from that area in the afternoon. We had just finished Darkness Til Dawn (so I guess I was climbing within my abilities, as ZF was the day's warmup), and someone hollered rock, and there were a couple of dumbasses standing around underneath (gray t-shirts?) without helmets. So what did they do? They looked up (so the rock would hit them in the face?), then covered their heads with their hands (so they might have their fingers removed?) Did they try to get out of the way? No. They just stood there and grumbled. Your safety is your own responsibility. Even the most careful climbers will dislodge a rock here and there. The last page Pat Ament's book High Over Boulder lists "A Few Suggetions For Safety." Here is suggestion #1: "Don't climb below other parties. People drop equipment and knock rocks off. A climb will always wait for another day." Standing around below parties in a known rockfall area is simply foolish. All of the posts debating the Dirty Deed rappell attest to that. Want to hang out at the GZ without worrying about gumbies dropping rocks onto your soft spot? How about taking ten steps to the west? It's sunny and warm over there, and you won't have some dude's dog nosing in your crotch while you try to eat your lunch. BTW-- You may be surprised how much a climbing helmet can take. I caught a baseball- sized chunk on the noggin once at Granite Mountain in AZ, during a vertical rescue training course. I saw stars, and a dime- sized gouge was left in the shell. Wear your helmet. It will save your life some day, and they look oh so cool!
Mar 29, 2004
My 2 cents. There is no "8+" traverse or any other 8+ moves if you stay on route. The crux is the first few moves of the traverse, but can be pretty well protected (gear 5 ft right). I didn't feel like the rest of the face was rounout and got gear in every 5-10ft. However, I'd agree you certainly can't just plug in gear wherever you feel like it and some of it was creative, but with good stances.
Mar 29, 2004
Wearing a helmet...good idea. Being careful not to cause rock fall...better idea.
Mar 23, 2004
Hey Russell, Nice of you to warn people to wear helmets, but how about not prying flakes off the wall and trying to kill us all! My helmet wouldn't have done much to slow down the rock you (or your partner?) sent down at us. Climb under control and within your abilities? Learn to recognize loose rock and don't protect behind it?
Mar 23, 2004
There is a very large amount of large loose rock on this face. Be especially aware of expando flakes that would fail under weighted cams. I saw many people below us today without hard hats. Wake up brothers and sisters. This sport is risky enough without having someone above kill you with a bomb. You have been warned.
Mar 22, 2004
With a 60 m, you can run the last two pitches together. The description in Rossitter's book is pretty much right-on, but I found it still a mental challenge to lead the last 2 pitches, which we ran together, on-site. It *was* a bit run-out at spots, and the pro was 'creative' sometimes. I also found some rope-drag issues, so extend the runners as you can. Basically, I guess what I'm saying is that it's an Eldo face climb. Enjoy!
Jul 4, 2003
- Redgarden - Roof Routes
- (Total) Psycho!
- Blue Steel
Fun route...very roof routesque, kinda a one move wonder and not the hardest 12b around at that....
Oct 29, 2012
You guys are truly onspiring!! Good job!
Aug 30, 2004
- Canary Corner Extension
Had a blast on this today! I think it's probably a slightly easier tick than the standard pitch, but you do have to punch it!
Sep 4, 2015
- Clear the Deck
Boulos.
Jul 17, 2006
Lead this thing onsight with a few draws and small wires. Never used the wires. Basically soloed it except for clipping the bolt on high on Guenese. Told my belayer (Boulos) to feed a bunch of rope out and stay out of the fall zone so I didn't kill us both if I blew it. All went well. P.S. Matt says "deck is a mere 30+ feet away", although he neglects to mention that the landing zone is a razor-edged rock-band jutting straight up at you. Falling from even 10 feet up could be deadly.
Jul 16, 2005
I remember belaying Eric on this, it was real scary. He used Chouinard Cracknups for pro. Good thing he didn't fall.
Feb 14, 2002
- Clever Lever
I agree with Bart Paull's comment that the "Clever Lever" is well worth doing and more like a roped boulder problem than an pitch of climbing. We did not use a clip stick at the time, but it sounds like a good idea, because a fall prior to clipping could cause some damage. I did the second free ascent of this little gem after ample beta from Greg Lowe (he had climbed it the day before while belayed by Bob Dodds). On my ascent, I was belayed by David Breashears, and I came very close to hitting he ground on each of 3 falls I took from the crux at the lip. Consequently, on my next attempt, David kept a close rope on me, and I have always wondered if the close belay aided my success. I compared notes with John Bachar about this the day after his successful attempt (after a few falls), and the next day when he attempted to solo the route, he flew-off at the lip, and we have all heard the rest of that story. I think it was raining when both Greg and I did the route which means it's a good route to work on when the rest of Eldorado is dripping wet. Cheers!
Jul 18, 2014
I'd say the route is something like a roped V7-V8, making it pretty stout for the given 12a/b.... Very worth doing, stick clip recommended!
Apr 12, 2013
Anyone have more info on this route or any updated pics?
Mar 11, 2013
I always liked this route. It's short but sweeet!! Amazing send by Greg Lowe. One of those stand out routes in difficulty for the time it was done.
Jun 9, 2011
- Dangerous Acquaintances
I wouldn't say it's X because of the run outs, I would say it's X because every gear placement is in crap rock. Super fun climbing though.
Dec 10, 2016
Tony and I TR'd this the other day by traversing easily left from the Temporary Like Achilles (TLA) anchors to the Dangerous Acquaintances (DA) anchors. We initially did the upper part of DA via the original line by starting on TLA (with the risk of a big swing at the TLA crux). Tony then did the original DA start. I'd like to clarify Matt and Tony's descriptions. Matt is describing the 12a direct variation that goes straight up in the middle. Tony and I TR'd the original line that goes further left along the strata to a right facing flake, up and then right, where it is joined by the direct variation. The start Matt describes sounds to me like the variation just left of TLA and not the real DA start according to Rossiter. Rossiter describes the start Tony did that is further left: An undercling and bizarre moves (at least for Tony) and a difficult standup get you over a substantial ceiling. A long stretch for a fingertip undercling allows you to step up and reach the left facing corner. The Rossiter top calls this start 11d vs. The further right start that Matt describes has some gear and is shown as 10+ in the Rossiter topo but is apparently harder than that.
Sep 11, 2005
A great route with a great [variance] in the nature of the moves. Make sure your shoes are on tight and you are ready to use all manner of footwork. Moving from the mantle above the first roof and into the first solid side-pulls will not be all that hard for the tall, though still the crux. However, it would have increasing difficulty with decreasing height, perhaps well beyond the assigned grade of 11d (Rossiter). The tipping point on the grade would [likely] occur at just under 6' tall. At 5'10" with long arms, I was barey able to connect the good holds, "good" being a relative term. Beyond that the gear is probably good [enough] to keep one off the ground for a while, and the route a matter of pumps and rests. Beyond the big flakes, the route seemed like it would have been a really tough lead (vs) as the seldom present gear seemed second rate to me and the holds were insecure and pumpy. I'm happy to have TR'd it.
Sep 11, 2005
- Downpressor Man
Fun route with perfect rock. The feet can be a bit tricky and slick. I agree with the above about the route being a bit easier if you are 6' or more. However, I must disagree with the aforementioned tactics. Please do not lower directly through the glue-in. Be considerate of climbers who will use it for decades to come; rap or leave a biner.
Feb 12, 2017
The rock on this climb is beautiful, chocolate looking swirls. For shorter people, I can totally see 12b, but for us tall guys, I'd have to say 12a, a spicy one especially on the sharp end. Three bolts, three pins, and a two bolt anchor with steel rings. The stainless steel glue in bolt at the crux is confidence inspiring and also allows you to thread and lower if you can't get past the crux.
Nov 18, 2014
Can't believe that there is not one photo of this classic posted here. Time to change that. Went out there, today. Still love this route. Super high quality, classic, Eldo trickery.
Aug 23, 2014
Almost clocked my belayer with a cherry pie slice-sized piece of rock after the crux. Just cuz it's been there awhile doesn't mean some dumbass like myself can't rip it off!
Mar 31, 2014
Ken, I recall watching Mark do this without all the intermediates, and that is why I commented as above.
Apr 14, 2013
One-trick pony with fun climbing to the crux. I like the traverse climbing to the anchors.
Apr 13, 2013
Those who complain about reach should know how tall the OP is (probably shorter than you!). Regardless, it doesn't climb that well if you are short (ends being more about how strong the fingers are than any semblance of balance & technique).
Aug 28, 2012
That crux move is killing me. Avoid in the summer afternoon. I didn't and found myself trying to stick the crux reach when the rock was all greasy. If only I was a little tiny bit taller, I'd be able to nail it on redpoint.
Sep 5, 2011
I think this route is pretty reachy for shorties like me. I swear, just two more inches and I would be able to nail the crux move.
Apr 27, 2011
Eric Goukas showed me this line shortly before he died. I took Rolofson up there and we decided to bolt it. I think Rolofson didn't have enough money for the bolts so I bought some of them. Back then I was content to top rope it and call it a climb...The bolt thing was not really big.
May 18, 2005
Seemed especially reachy for a middle-aged, average-strength, +2 ape, 5'10" climber.
Apr 3, 2003
Drop a star from three to two for the brevity of the killer climbing and the indirect start and finish.
Apr 2, 2003
Hmmm.. How did this little classic escape posting here for so long? Thin, super-crisp edges separated by long pulls on a vertical wall add up to a fine sequence. The line looses a litle in continuity from the initial traverse leading into the perfect stone in the mid section and from the slightly odd finish that traverses back left. For my taste, it has always seemed reasonable to place a separate anchor at the bona fide top of Downpressor and skip the final traverse. DM is a nifty line for working the feet and the crimp strength.
Apr 2, 2003
- Evangeline
Was reading Ken Trout's comment (pic) re the 1st pitch bolt replacements...Yeah, totally bogus bolts, for sure!!! I remember when I first lead this. The topo descriptions in Boulder Climbs South said it all...The last, crux bolt must of been a Star-Drive cause I remember the head of the nail had snapped off and the shaft backed out or something??? And...Someone had bent both sides of the shaft outwards to "hold down" the hanger!! Sketcccchy!! Before the bolts were replaced, my friend Dave and I used to dangerously sandbag our outa-town friends onto this "old sport climb"...How lame is that?
Sep 10, 2007
The pins and bashies remain on the third pitch, as well they should for posterity. The four _ inchers were replaced by 3/8 inch stainless steel providers. This is a fantastic and overlooked pitch, especially with the face-lift! Don't let the AO roof dissuade you. No sense in stopping at the roof when aiming for the upper pitch. Tarzan your way through the roof and belay above the lip to finish pitch 1.
Sep 30, 2003
Just about a week ago there was a rebolting day in Eldo. There was a guy up on the upper pitch of this route replacing many of the old nasty pins that used to be up there. I figured that I would give everyone a heads up about the new gear and also a huge thanks to the guys that were out there taking a day off of climbing to take care of Eldo. Props to you, guys!
Sep 20, 2003
I followed the upper 10 b/c in the early 90s and thought it was considerably harder than the 11 b/c first pitch. I remember hard moves off the belay, and an upper crux past fixed bashies in a smooth dihedral / groove sort of thing, which more or less sounds like what some other people are saying.
Mar 3, 2003
The pitch above the roof is excellent, 5.10b/c. The roof is easily aidable and ends up at a big anchor. From there, the climb goes up and right, and then straight up the face to a tricky groove. It finishes up an easy slab to the belay below the Psycho Slab. This pitch is exposed and feels much more commiting than it actually is. It is mostly fixed with old pins and other old gear, and can be protected with small wires and small cams. The Psycho Slab, 5.9, leads to the Upper Ramp.
Jan 1, 2001
Attempted to do these upper pitches today. I found the climbing quite nebulous, perhaps I didn't stare at the guidebook long enough, and eventually got off route and stumbled into Psycho in one long wandering yet exposed and fun lead. There is a bit of 5.10 right off the belay that is, for lack of a better word, spicy. You have to sling a hangerless quarter incher four feet out from the belay. The rest of the pitch (after where I broke over to psycho) seemed to be protected with a full museum of old, aid climbing gear, my partner tells me I missed spotting a bolt and pin on this section, all I saw was unispiring bashies. Anyway, all I mean to say is that this pitch deserves an s rating. The Psycho slab was a really cool exit.
Jan 1, 2001
A shoulder length sling is helpful between the first and second bolts, you can sling a protrusion and eliminate any runout.
Jan 1, 2001
- Fire and Ice
Great route with sick runout up high!!! What a GEM.
Dec 2, 2014
Fun little route, the epitome of an Eldo climb that either feels easy or impossible. If you enjoy this style of climbing, definitely check out "Book of Numbers", P1 of BoN is about the same grade as F&I.
Apr 15, 2011
Found a video of this route: vimeo.com/9483523
Oct 27, 2010
You are absolutely correct Hank, ratings do mean shit. Thanks for calling me out! When am I going to see you out in the canyon? Let's do something crazy, soon!
Feb 12, 2010
Now Alex, ratings do mean shit. That's why your profile is full of them. And I also think that Fire and Ice is weirdly stiff since the hold broke. Hope all is well, crazyman!
Feb 12, 2010
In response to a comment above...What does it mean to "modernize the rating" anyways??? Ratings are ratings...This route, like many hard routes all over the world, was first freed in EB's (or worse!). No sticky rubber or sensitivity and a blunt toe and using inferior bolts as protection!!!! Modernize? If anything, many ratings should be lowered due to technology!!! Anyways...Ratings don't mean shit!
Feb 12, 2010
In my opinion, the last section above the 3rd bolt (high-step w/ funny pinch hold) and where the flake got ripped off is not any harder than before.... For me being 6', 12a has always seemed a reasonable grade for this route, but it is height-dependent, so.... The route is relatively easy to read and no moves are as hard as the crux of Downpressor Man (12a). Oh yeah, it is tenuous and hairy getting to the anchor, for sure (always has been)!
Jan 24, 2010
I agree that a 5.11 climber would have his or her hands full on this route, although 12c is way off. I onsighted this route pretty easily, in 1995, It took me three tries to stick the crux of Downpressor Man. There was no stopper move on the route - just sustained and relatively thin climbing most of the way. Ken, did Jeff say that to you? Just curious because he was my regular partner back then, and I was with him when he did it. We both onsighted it and, as I recall, agreed that was pretty solid and thought-provoking 12a.
Aug 3, 2007
Three stars...but My 2 cents is: despite a high quality sport route, the grade is 100% wrong. A 5.11 Eldo or sport climber should not get on this thinking it will be a good time. I climb mid-12 sport, mid-11 Eldo gear, V6 bouldering; there were moves I just couldn't pull. Normally I would pass this off as stylistic and personal differences, however my friend Tony (who climbs 13c Rifle, and on-sights mid to upper 12) took two days of projecting F&I. Jeff Cloud thought it was 12c, before the flake pulled, and Pat Adams himself thought it was pretty ridiculous in hindsight when I asked him about it. Just a thought, but when the first acentionist thinks it's probably wrong, it might be time to modernize the rating. Traditionalism or not.
Sep 26, 2006
This route just got a whole heck of a lot harder this weekend. I ripped off the only good hold between the last bolt and the anchor. The move now is going to be a desperate high step mantle with jack for hand holds. And not to mention that you will be standing a nice little bit above the last bolt. While this was already a technical and excellent slab route, it is now way harder (the crux will be getting to the anchors) and with a little more sketch to it. If it used to be 11d (definite sandbag), it is now probably around mid 12. Before and after the broken hold, this route is an amazing piece of slab climbing.
Dec 5, 2004
- Gem, The
- Guardian Saint
Super great pitch, the ledge presents a hazard though and this could easily elevate it to a R rating if care is not taken leading up to the crux. The final slab is 5.10 and also requires aptitude and selection of wires to keep it safe. Full value Eldo fun!
Jun 18, 2012
- Guen-Ice
- Guenese
On Oct. 17, 2015, as part of a rebolting event coordinated by the Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) and the Action Committee for Eldorado (ACE), Curt Stevens and I updated the anchor under the root (~45-foot height) and the true pitch 1 (~75-foot height) anchor with 0.5x4.75-inch, stainless steel, five-piece bolts. The lead bolts were also replaced with half-inch, stainless steel bolts. We moved the anchor under the roof ~6 inches downward to avoid the the region where the old bolts were placed, since it seeps water. The first piton (knifeblade) could still use replacement. Please consider supporting bolt replacement efforts by donating to organizations like BCC, ACE, and ASCA. This is also a really fun climb! The moves getting up to the roof and grabbing the jugs are tough!
Oct 19, 2015
I was the belayer in a situation that mirrors Ivan's comment above. The climber (a long time Eldo native) had me belaying him atop the large block left of the 1st pin. He placed a .5 in the overlap and fell making the stand-up move to clip the 2nd bolt, the cam held. He proceeded to climb again and took the same fall, the cam did NOT hold on the 2nd fall. I jumped down off the block and the climber swung under me (from the 1st bolt, ie after the pin) and struck the ramp. He was a little beat up but OK. Lessons learned: 1. Belay below the large block under the 1st bolt. 2. Back up gear under the overlap in the finger crack (green C3 or purple metolius) 3. 48" runner on the 1st anchor and 1st piece in the 5.9 corner to reduce rope drag. Safe by Eldo standards and a 4 star route if you climb to the 2nd set of anchors. Whatever the argument about grades was/is... Combining the pitches makes it harder than Evangeline so...
Mar 31, 2014
The climbs on this wall were all pretty horror show for gear back in the day. Yeah, I know, we all manned up and did it anyway. I am glad that this old crap is getting fixed. Every time I read in MP about someone replacing some old fixed gear I think "great, that thing was garbage thirty years ago". As for the anchor under the roof, I agree with Mark R. I used to come up here and just do the first bit as a warm up for brevities' sake as I moved along the wall and did as many of these routes as time would allow. I have done this more times than I can remember. To answer Ivan; yes, at the rest just before the second bolt if you position your feet just right you can duck your head under the flake for a no hands rest. For the record, John Sherman was a little more hardcore than the average climber in every aspect. After reading Mark comment again, I wanted to add a bit more.... Back in the "good old days" this entire wall was a wad of multicolored shit slings, it is way better now in every respect. I was one who had a "traditude" about Rob Candelaria's efforts, but I think that was wrong. He just was a little bit before his time fixing a bunch of longstanding issues with fixed gear in this area. Thanks to him and all the others. I skip clips frequently due to link ups, rope drag, to much unnecessary pro, whatever...feel free to do the same.
Oct 27, 2012
I first climbed Guenese in Spring 1980. It is still one of favorite climbs in the canyon. I have always considered the 1st pitch to end above the roof at the 2nd two bolt anchor. The first anchor like Chris Archer mentions replaced a fixed nut and piton that people would bail out on. I have always considered this lead to be 5.11b and a pumpy one at that. In 1980, the route was more serious. Where the 2nd bolt is now, you placed a nut behind an expanding flake. You could lower on the nut, but people who fell on it pulled the nut out, resulting in a 40 foot fall on a upward driven peg under the tiny roof (or overlap). If you were smart, as soon as you got to horizontal break under the large roof you would place a bomber #1 Friend on the right before traversing left on the crux moves. In 1985, the flake cracked and John Baldwin carefully removed it before someone got killed. A funky pin was then placed in the remaining part of the expanding flake. This was replaced by Rob Candelaria in 1988 with a bolt along with the first 2 bolt anchor that had been a wad of slings from a pin and a nut. Where several folks with a traditude have scorned Rob's actions, I believe he did the right thing and improved the quality of this great classic so it can enjoyed with a greater much margin of safety. There are still many scary leads in Eldo, if you want to air out your knickers. Lastly, I don't agree that the first anchor or one of its bolts should be removed. They are have been here for a while and should stay. People have bailed here for decades. Plus, it makes lowering off to clean your gear off much easier to break this into two lowers rather than cleaning the whole pitch from the anchor above the roof.
Feb 18, 2012
The bolt anchor after the first "pitch" is unnecessary and should be removed. Maybe leave one bolt there, but I'm not sure that would even be completely necessary. A #0.75 Camalot fits nicely in the undercling flake after the second bolt. There is a good #0.4 placement above the roof until you can clip the pin.
May 14, 2011
Wow, Ivan - glad you both are OK. A very similar scenario happened to a friend of mine (climber) and a locally well know climber (belayer) - but the belayer ended up with a broken ankle and then a very long "walk" out from Mickey Mouse Wall. He was wearing mountaineering boots, too! Be Safe All !
Nov 30, 2009
Belaying accident: I had a strange accident when belaying Lisa Apprill on Guenese a couple of weeks ago. Lisa had asked me to move my belay from down and right to just below the start. I was sitting on a comfy flat rock a couple of feet left of the first pin. Lisa had a lot of trouble clipping the second bolt. Because of that she was extra tired moving left to the third bolt. She fell, and I was immediately airborne, despite outweighing Lisa by 40-50 pounds. I figure I was lifted up maybe just an inch, but that was enough to float to the right as the ground dropped steeply away. I swung violently to the right. I saw a little left-facing corner coming at my face, and I jerked my head to avoid it (I think I was wearing my helmet). But then my knee and shin hit the same corner. I came to a stop about 10' off the ground with Lisa hanging below the second bolt near the downward hanging flake. I was in lots of pain. After about a minute, I got control and lowered myself to the ground. I'm thankful I was using a Cinch, because although I did not let go with my brake hand, I easily could have. On the ground I was in shock--woozy and feeling like throwing up. I apparently did not communicate this to Lisa, because she immediately started climbing back up. After maybe four minutes of deep breathing, the shock symptoms went away, and all was well except for the abrasions and huge lump on my knee. Now, two weeks later, it's still black and blue below the knee, and the knee swells up now and then. Although I can walk, run and climb, it hurts to bend the knee, due, I think, to the swelling. The lesson? If the rope is not running very straight up, be prepared to take a swing, especially if the ground slopes away.
Nov 30, 2009
Highly recommend a #0.75 in the flake. Kept me off the deck when I blew the crux clip...and I would have blown out my legs had I only clipped the fixed gear. I don't know how people all think this is 11-. This thing is hard! But then again, you have to put the whole thing together in 1 pitch for the full value! Excellent route!
Dec 24, 2008
Rossiter's guide says take RPs and QDs, but I was definitely pleased to place a red Alien in the flake (as someone else mentioned above). A 1.5 Friend also works, but not as well as the Alien. The 5.9 corner above the roof takes wires. There is also a fixed pin, but the eye must be threaded and can't be clipped directly. Excellent route, and a good pump.
Nov 21, 2005
The 2nd pitch var. going straight up the corner and out the triangular roof is indeed only 5.10d. Thin gear to roof then be on the look-out for a solution hole in the roof which takes a good #2 Camalot.
Jul 14, 2004
The climb earns the 5.11 grade. I believe the initial face to be on-par with the first pitches of each Wasabe and Psycho, both of which I have done recently. The roof is not as difficult, but with the pump, yeah...The 5.11 upgrading might be due to the present slippery nature of the beast. It is abnormally slick for Eldo and covered in chalk and the like. OK, so I don't use chalk and that might have helped, but it is certainly polished. And the slicker it gets, the more people fuss with the holds and slip off and the slicker it gets? See where I am going with this?Anyway, a few other comments. As Ivan mentioned in a picture caption, the "3rd pitch" step left is hard for 5.9. It;s probably 10a. You can make it physically easy with some fancy footwork, but I don't see a lot of 5.9 climbers doing the sort of solution that would be required. From the 3rd bolted anchor you can continue up and left to the Psycho slab and finish on that, making a 65+ meter pitch from the anchor above the roof. A 70M rope required if you don't want to belay on a pair of total crap bolts. Lastly, has anyone done the 10d "straight up" dihedral to the upper ramp? Sure looks unprotected from below, and hard too.
Jul 7, 2004
Even though I've clipped them, I would also vote for removing the anchors below the roof. They seem really out of place on this climb. It isn't at all like the other roof routes where actually turning the roof is in a completely different league of difficulty from the face climbing below. Plus, with the bolt in the roof, and the other a few feet below those anchors, it feels too much like the Sport Park--clipping a bolt above your head while another is at your waist!--which to me is a blight on an otherwise amazing pitch.
Mar 16, 2004
In the late 70s there was good pin in the flake right of the second bolt. At some point it ripped, leaving a good RP placement. In the mid to late 80s, the flake broke and the RP placement was no more. The route had traditionally been done in one pitch from the ground over the roof. However in the late 70s/early 80s, the bolt in the roof was an old 1/4 incher that was about halfway out of the roof. (It eventually pulled, making the roof lead even more exciting.) That dubious bolt resulted in climbers leaving nuts beneath the roof to back up the pin at the end of the crux traverse and lowering off. Unfortunately in the late 80s, some climbers added a belay underneath the roof, thus diminishing a fabulous climb. You haven't climbed Guenese unless you finish the pitch over the roof. Personally, I think the anchors beneath the roof should be removed and the route returned to the state of the first free ascent. With the current bomber roof bolt, it's sad that a fabulous 90' pitch has been split into to two 45' pitches.
Mar 15, 2004
Thanks, Bernard. I see the photo of Wunsch in Climb! Good to read those old stories again and again. Is there really a head jam rest there (see Sherman's post)?
Mar 15, 2004
"Is it possible that Wunsch, Erickson and Scott Stewart freed Guenese via Downpressor Man, without the Downpressor Man bolts? " No - see picture on p. 204 (of original edition -- it's p. 88 of new edition) of CLIMB!, and you'll see the guys in the 70s climbed it the same way we do today (compare with your second pitcure of Josh).
Mar 15, 2004
John Sherman belittles the current rating of this route and the "chicken bolt" (the second bolt). I don't know where he gets the alleged current 11c/d rating... My copy of Ament's Eldorado guide (1980) rates this at 5.11 (no letter grades back then), so the alleged grade inflation happened a long time ago. Erickson's "Rocky Heights" (also 1980) says this, "Due to the eroding fixed protection, this is becoming a more serious lead with each passing year." So, perhaps there was a fixed pin where the "chicken bolt" now is. Or maybe Erickson is referring to the first pin and the pin (no longer there) at the undercling that Sherman mentions. Found this in Ament's 1980 "Eldorado" guide:"Work up the wall past a bolt, then up and left on difficult rock and out over an obvious roof."The "up and left" from the first bolt sounds like Downpressor Man.Is it possible that Wunsch, Erickson and Scott Stewart freed Guenese via Downpressor Man, without the Downpressor Man bolts?
Mar 14, 2004
5.11 c/d? This is one of my favorite cases of grade inflation. Prior to Erickson's 1980 guide this was listed as 5.10+ in Ament's Eldo guide, though a few at the time felt it didn't deserve the "+." This was in the EBs, hexes and stoppers era. The chicken bolt below the roof didn't exist then (and probably shouldn't now) and I personally know three climbers who fell from the crack below the roof, ripped the stopper from the flexing flake, bombed onto the old fixed pin at the headjam rest flake below and stopped five feet off the ground (maybe this is where it got the "+"). Since that time the flake in the middle of the roof has broken and become less positive (hence maybe the 11a rating if you climb "both" pitches together and assuming you don't use sticky rubber or clip the chicken bolt or the chains beneath the roof [there used to be fixed angles up and left from the current chains, but desperate to clip unless you climbed past them]). Otherwise the pitch is essentially the same as in the late '70s and definitely an Eldo classic.
Jun 20, 2003
I thought that each of the short pitches felt about 11a... but there really is no good reason to break it into 2 pitches. However, there really isn't a very good rest at the intermediate belay and the second 11a section is usually climbed with a pretty thorough pump.If you combine the two pitches, then this would probably go at 11c/d at your typical sport crag 11b if the pitches are combined. Each of the 2 pitches by themselves felt about 11a, but there isn't a good rest at the belay.
Feb 24, 2003
The 1980 Jim Erickson Rocky Heights guide says, "Named after a common metamorphic rock" (which is spelled correctly as gneiss and pronounced "nice"). Merriam-Webster says: a foliated metamorphic rock corresponding in composition to a feldspathic plutonic rock (as granite). Perhaps the FA was making a pun, or just guessed at the spelling. History from High Over Boulder, 1970:FA by Layton Kor and Ron Foreman 1962. It sounds like the current first pin and first bolt, and the bolt in the roof, are approximately where Kor placed them. The aid line did not move far right on the first pitch as the free line now does. Patrick Vernon says above that both of the first two short pitches (to the roof and through the roof) are 10. Rossiter says both are 11a. In Erickson's 1980 Rocky Heights he calls the combined pitches 11. Erickson (or all climbers of that era?) is notorious for underrating as compared with current standards. The gear was worse in 1980. What's the current consensus? Hard 10 or easy 11?
Feb 15, 2003
You may be thinking of the metamorphic rock type called gneiss. I wouldn't think the name has any correlation to that as Eldo is sedimentary rock.
May 13, 2002
Yes, "Guh - neese" is correct, as Matt says. Apparently it is a kind of rock, but I am no geologist.
May 9, 2002
The first fixed bugaboo is definitely not inspiring, but a good bolt can be clipped only a few moves higher. I found a red Alien (#4 or #5 Metolius) stuffed up into the flake at the rest with a long runner worked well at this point between bolts. I also suggest doing it as one pitch, because even though you may find yourself pumped at the first set of anchors, climb on! The bolt in the roof is inspiring and once you hit the freehanging sidepull corner you can easily gain a great stance for gear and a rest before the last 20 ft. of well protected 5.9 corner climbing. Go for it, you might surprise yourself, I know I did!
Aug 1, 2001
- Hands In The Clouds
Wild position and kind of thrilling climbing above the big roof. 5.11 right above the belay with two .12a sections above that--lots of power and quite pumpy for its length. There are 4 bolts on Hands; no gear needed although there is a good runout between 3 and 4 which can be protected with a TCU under a little roof (takes the edge off clipping the 4th bolt). Note that the description mentions climbing on the Psycho Slab which is actually the 3rd pitch of Psycho, above Hands. You can continue past Hands with the Psycho Slab and end up at the Upper Ramp, or belay at the Wisdom anchor and then rap back to the hanging belay at the beginning of Hands. If you do this, take some gear to direct the rope (big nut, #3 Friend), since the Wisdom anchor is down and left of where you finish Hands in the Clouds. For some reason, all the routes that climb above the roof routes (Psycho, Evangeline, Hands, Wisdom...) provide a spooky atmosphere and seem pretty out there even though they're only one pitch off the ground.
Jul 29, 2004
With the consent of the first ascensionist, an additional 5th bolt was added to Hands in the Clouds. The new bolt is located above the crux and protects the follower from potentially taking a large pendulum. Thanks, ACE, for supplying the hardware. See ACE application archive for details: ACE application for additional bolt
Sep 28, 2016
Just a correction to the write up above from Richard. I believe the Archilles roof was first freed by Ben Moon and not Jerry Moffat as written above. Maybe Moffat did it as well. I don't recall hearing of the roof being freed by anyone else, and I had heard some holds had snapped on previous attempts since Moon's ascent. Maybe some one else knows more about this. At any rate, most mortals will aid the roof to get to Hands in the Clouds.
Dec 12, 2010
Yaaaay! It goes! Also, the above description of the route makes little sense. From the belay you climb slightly right and up to a bulge. Clip the 3rd bolt and do a wild traverse left about 6-8 feet then straight up under the big roof. Make a dicey clip of the 4th bolt then traverse right to a powerful move and finish on jugs.
Nov 1, 2009
Unique climb that combines airy position, deceptive reads, and sustained just past vertical climbing to produce a classic. Packs a heavy punch for just four bolts. True red point grade. Have a 0.5 purple Camalot or grey/red Alien ready (AKA panic piece) for the vertical finger slot after finishing the leftward traverse before clip four. Don't bother to put a cam in the flared overhead horizontal slot as it will blow out. Also, note, you can back clean the route on lower from The Wisdom P3 anchor.
Nov 1, 2009
Outstanding climb featuring bulletproof rock. This thing is a wild ride the entire way that's "in your face" the moment you leave the belay. It ain't no "sport route". A very sneaky climb that would be a proud onsight.
May 16, 2009
Hands in the Clouds is a great sport line with outstanding position. If it were the first pitch off the ground, there would be a waiting line to get on it. I suggest that one also try Huck Off after doing Hands in the Clouds. It is about the same grade and spice, and the climbing is steep, powerful, and interesting. It starts at the same anchor and goes left and up through the overhanging bulge. You can also TR the route (for those that may be afraid to fly) from the rap anchors that you'll be using to descend for the 3rd anchor on the Wisdom. Huck Off was not bolted with hangdogging in mind. Good bolts, clean falls. You'll either send or be sent. This one also stays dry when it is raining, unless your partner is spraying.
Jul 30, 2004
- Huck Off
Post crux above the fourth bolt after the climbing eases you can slap in a #1/red Camalot to cover you for the short section to the anchor. The first three clips are all heady as this is not your typical Front Range sport route.
May 5, 2017
One of the best sport pitches in the canyon. There might not be any moves as hard as on its neighbor, "Hands in the Clouds", but Huck is definitely more sustained and exciting. I won't say it's dangerous, but there's potential for some big air here. Getting the second bolt is spooky, but relatively easy and secure. After that, it's on, with big moves between good holds and little possibility to rest. Fantastic position, killer rock, and outrageous moves make this an Eldo must-do! -Scott
Jan 12, 2010
- Kloeberdanz
I seem to recall the original rating clocking in at 11- or thereabouts. That felt about accurate to me. The heel hook makes everything pretty reasonable.
Aug 25, 2014
Saying "Reach and forearms are the keys to this 3-move wonder." is an understatement. A very short, powerful reachy crux.
Aug 3, 2010
This one can be hard to decipher and that can make a big difference. I agree with Mike Storeim's comment that this route feels much harder today than it did in the mid 70s & 80s, and perhaps the crimper holds in the middle are not as positive as they used to be. But, for me, all routes feel harder now than they did back then. So, I'm not totally sure if it's the holds or just my advancing weight & declining strength. Any other Grey Hairs out there that have done this one lately care to comment on that? Chris A?
Aug 29, 2006
There's nothing like a little German Folk Dancing to really spice up a party!
Sep 13, 2004
I believe Kloeberdanz is a now extinct traditional German folk dance, literally translated it means "sick dog roof dancing."
Jul 26, 2004
Kor worked for the Kloberdanz family in the '60s. They owned a brick or cement company. He told me he liked the name and used it for this route. They may still be in the Yellow Pages.
May 26, 2004
Does anyone know why Steve Wunsch quit climbing? Near-death experience? Better to burn-out than fade away?
May 26, 2004
Advancing the historical discussion...I've posted the original photo of Steve Wunsch on the 1974 FFA below, next to Dave Bohn's scan from Climbing. Also, a second photo showing Jim Erickson following the crux (unsuccessfully) on the FFA.
May 25, 2004
Re: Bob's and my exchange. I posted a lot of trivia to Tony that got ended up in "other comments" for some reason at the bottom of the page.
Dec 8, 2003
You mean the Mag. that's in my photo below? I've still got Climbing Nov/Dec '72; now that's a classic!
Dec 8, 2003
Got it here Tony ,"Kloberdanz Construction Company", Kor was taking odd and end jobs to supply his climbing habit and at the time he did this route, was working for them.
Dec 8, 2003
If I can remember right in my advancing years, Kor was a "hoddy" at a masonry company named "Kloeber Mason's " (or something very close).
Dec 8, 2003
Other than the route of this Name in Eldo and also one in Yosemite, I believe, I can't find reference to what this word means. The one song by this title is an instrumental by Belcanto's White Out conditions LP. Can anyone shed light on the meaning?
Dec 8, 2003
I've done this route several times, the first time in 1975 and the last in 1996. Maybe it's just my advancing age and a few extra pounds that made it feel harder, but I think that a piece of the crimper in the middle of the roof broke and is smaller than it used to be. It's definitely not as positive as it used to be. Good idea to back up the pin after you clear the roof. Believe me. In my opinion, the second and third pitches are the real reason to do this route, not the roof. They don't get done much and are a bit crusty in places. I think that the third pitch is a bit of a sandbag at 5.9, but you can decide that for yourself.
Jun 24, 2003
I think this route is way hard. I couldn't do this move and didn't really even get close to doing it. This type of move isn't my strength, though. Fortunately, you can still lead the route by just swinging over on the bolt. My partner, a semi-famous local, solid 5.12 climber, fell off it while following, so I think the move is pretty dang hard. The climbing above the lip is pretty dicey (but well protected) face climbing (10-) to the anchors. We did the second and third pitches as well and I'd recommend them as a fun adventure. The second pitch is 10c and had some lichen on it and maybe a touch of water (this was a couple of years ago, but I suspect things are pretty much the same). The third pitch is 5.9 S+. This is a great, exciting pitch that demands classic Eldo nut fiddling from semi-bad stances and a cool head. Bill I don't think this is a "great" route, so I can't give it two stars. This is a good route, though.
Jun 24, 2003
I can't believe there is even a question over who did this first ! Here's the photo from my archive of "Climbing" with Steve on an article about his first ascent. I used to go down there every week to gun for the 2-3 ascent until the "Kid" pulled the carpet from under our feet !!
Jun 23, 2003
I've read Barber in some places, Wunsch in others... and someone tried to convince me that it was Breashears, but I know the story on that one a bit better- it wasn't David Breashears... although he was the one to do it statically first. That's why I didn't specify on the FA on this one- frankly, I'm not sure what to believe.
Oct 2, 2002
...Dave Breashears was the first one to cross and use a heel hook. How is that for a interesting bit of trivia?
Oct 2, 2002
...the upper pitches are worth doing.
Sep 30, 2002
- Kloeberdeath/Candallegro
I redpointed this climb in December 1994 after 4 days of attempts. I thought it was a bit easier than than The Web or Captain Crunch that I did not redpoint. The climbing is 5.12a/b to the last bolt. Then it gets technical & powerful, moving right off an good undercling to poor rounded sidepull edge that I matched on. You are on the left side of the overhung arête at that point. I remember hooking a foot around the right side. Then reach or dyno up a series of tiny edges & to a jug hueco. Suddenly it's over. I placed the anchor in June 1994. The anchor sits in a water flow & should be replaced with glue-ins. Originally there was no anchor. The upper 2 protection bolts are Fixe stainless steel double expansion wedge bolts that replaced the original wedge bolts in September 1998.
Apr 17, 2015
Way harder than the guidebook 13a. Hard 13b, maybe even 13c. 12a to a fierce boulder problem.
Mar 16, 2011
-responding to the question about Mickey Mouse Die-rect.....It's a very good route with the crux being safer than getting to it. Not wanting to spoil it with too much beta I'll only say that there are different ways to do it.
Nov 6, 2003
Reminds me of Mickey Mouse Die-rect, another of Rob's routes with death potential in its original ascent. Has anyone else been through this route?
Nov 4, 2003
It has died down, but there was a certain amount of controversy surrounding this route at the time it was put in. An eye-witness account of the first ascent follows. Rob had bolted the upper face and TR'd only that upper face previously with Jim Royce. On his first lead attempt with Jim, he was not able to safely make the crux clip (the bolt at the lip), and came down. At the time, the Kloeberdanz crux was protected by old knotted webbing jammed into a crack, making the 5.12 moves out to the lip a very serious undertaking. On the first ascent a month later, with me belaying, Rob had to climb back and forth up to that clip before - 30 minutes to finally get the clip later- climbing back to the rest above the Kloeberdanz crux and lowering. Considering safety, Rob did not pull the rope. After a rest, he climbed up and through in one push, sending the climb. A few weeks later, a certain climber of ambition named Jimmy asked me about the ascent and climbed Guenese to put a sling on the crux bolt at the lip to reduce the protection difficulties. Jimmy then led the climb, but tried to give it a new name and dis my man Rob. Weak effort in my eyes. Later, Rob would add a bolt along the underside of the arete to protect the death moves. He led this anew (all clean and fresh) and gave it the improved moniker 'Candallegro'. This is an enviable testpiece with great position, and a good linkup to climbs on the upper wall via the rest of 'Guenese' to the Upper Meadow.
Nov 3, 2003
- Last Rite
- Le Toit
For anyone planning to do this route...the pin before the bolt on P1 is working its way out. It's upward driven and can't be backed up well, and if it rips, it could be a disaster. If I were to go back, I would either hammer it in or remove it to see if gear can be placed in the pin scar.
May 9, 2017
Hey Brian...I just did this the Le Toit direct pitch today with Joe Mills as a finish to Scary Canary, and peeked on here to see if anyone had opinions about it. Let's say I was not bummed Joe lead this pitch! It's not bad getting to the first bolt, a bomber looking old ring bolt, but getting to the next bolt is a puckery twenty feet, and then you get there and it's a shitty quarter incher with a bail biner on it. I'd say there is a crux before and after this bolt, and if the bolt breaks...it could be real bad. Once you have the bolt at your feet, you reach over left and place a pretty bomber green Alien before yet another crux out a wild, pumpy rooflet.... Heads up...but if the bolt doesn't break, not too ridiculous.... Definitely somebody should replace that bolt and put the existing one in a museum. As far as the quality of the climbing, it is on par with and a great finish for Scary Canary.
Jan 26, 2012
Can anyone offer any info on Le Toit Direct? .11d straight up from the second anchor. Basically, I'm wondering how the gear is and whether the .11d bit is well protected, etc.
Jan 22, 2012
First two pitches are incredible. P1 is pumpy and thin, P2 has some funky moves and an amazing slap to the arete. Tony, I totally agree with P3. I was going to lead it until we realized the danger, so Matt stepped up to the plate to do it for me. It's also much harder if you're shorter, I had to do it completely different than Matt.... Next time I'll definitely do the Rosy variation.
Nov 18, 2008
All of this talk and nobody mentions the 3rd pitch.... Well, OK. For starters, 5.8 my fat A$$. It's probably 5.9+ and if you fall, you're going to bust your tailbone and god knows what else on that ledge. That said, if you are there, you are at least a 5.10 climber, so I guess that you'll be fine. Still, not something to drag your less-experienced partner up on and then try to get them to finish it off. All said and done, I think the 10c finish as for 'Rosy Toit' is no more dangerous at any skill level than the standard finish.
Jun 10, 2007
The roof used to be 5.8 Wow!! I guess some handholds fell out of there.
Aug 26, 2004
For some reason, I don't think this is as good as others say it is. The fist half off pitch 1, besides being runout, has several loose flakes. The P2 roof is ugly, and the flakes below the bolt are loose. I much prefer Guenese. The Le Toit roof is in a spectacular position, though. I have a hard time clipping that first pin on P1 at the start of the runout 5.9. This last time I skipped that pin. I start P1 about 8 feet right of that pin, climbing straight up the face on positive holds. There's not much chalk there, so it looks like most people climb past the pin. GEAR BETA: About 10' up, red Alien and (I think) pin tri-cam in pocket (didn't have one). At the end of the rightward traverse, where that ring pin is, you can get a blue tri-cam (two sizes bigger than the red) in a pocket of solid rock. The flakes in that same area are loose. A tiny cam can be placed at the top of the flakes, forcing the flakes hopefully down, rather than out. A solid brass nut can be placed higher in a small right facing corner at the start of the moves onto the ramp above. A blue Alien or better, a blue-green hybrid Alien, can be placed on the ramp to protect the move up to the pin. A #1 Offset Friend can be placed in the undercling left of the fixed pin at the crux. This mostly fills the undercling, but that's OK. As someone says in a post above, you can place a decent nut to the right of the pin. You can place this without committing to the moves. The pin looks OK to me despite others above saying it's bad. Perhaps it has been replaced? Clipping the bolt is indeed hard, but with the nut and cam backing up the pin, blowing the clip should not be serious. The crux moves are pretty technical, and fun once you figure them out. Not much has been said about the second pitch. The start is spooky with bad gear. We placed a blue Alien up high using the good holds just right of the anchor bolts. We then climbed straight up to the fixed pin rather than traversing to it, as the chalk indicates most people do. That wasn't too bad, once we decided it what to do. The "roof" (more of an overhanging wall) was harder than I expected. Once you get the arête I expected it to be over, but it's real tricky placing your feet--the tendency is to barn door to the right into space.
Mar 21, 2004
It's been a few years since I've been on this route, but I had always put in a very good stopper (like a #3 or #4 Rock, curved side out), near the upside-down pin on pitch one. The little roof that holds the upside-down pin will turn up on the right forming a small dihedral. The Rock goes in at that roof/dihedral transition, slotting in from the right.
Mar 16, 2003
Absolutely one of my favorite all time Eldo routes! Got suckered/sandbagged into leading the first pitch and found it a challenge fer sure! Fun steep climbing on great rock gets you out into some cool exposure just like Rosy. Highly recommend for people comfortable leading 5.11 anywhere else but Eldo. Thank Rob Candalaria (sp?) for the good bolt at the crux!
Jan 16, 2003
Did Le Tiot today. Perfect day in Eldo and this ranks as one of my favorite climbs in the canyon. The climbing was challenging, but not seriously dangerous. We linked the first two pitches as Steve recommended, and then did the Rosy link up. This is a great way to climb this route. In response to the above comment, the crux is wherever you feel it is the hardest. Personally, I thought it was sustained from the time I clipped the pin, through the bolt and then up the face crimpers.
Dec 20, 2001
Hopefully someone can answer this for me. Is the crux pulling past the upside-down pin and up to the bolt, or is it after the bolt?
Dec 6, 2001
- Le Toit Direct
Bolts upgraded as of 03/12/2017.
Mar 13, 2017
Those bolts would be super scary to take big falls on! With new bolts, it would make for a classic finish to Le Toit. If someone is willing to help with the rebolting, I'll get the permit.
Nov 5, 2016
I love this pitch. I will update the bolts this fall. 3 stars for sure.
Sep 6, 2015
- Le Verne
[Brilliant] link up! I'd have to call the 1st pitch .11a and would consider an S rating for the roof on the last pitch. I did the first pitch of Le Void off the Upper Ramp and moved around the corner from the sling belay to join with the second pitch of Love Minus Zero and [recommend] it as well.
May 4, 2003
You're the man, Steve.
Nov 5, 2001
Cool link-up.
Nov 4, 2001
- Lipsync
Awesome route, well worth doing. You can get a #0.75 Camalot in the hueco-like feature just before Guenese to protect the final moves into the corner.
Mar 16, 2011
- Mean Lean
- Psycho
PSYCHO IS A LOT MORE THAN ONE PITCH! Kor-Ingalls, 1962. To those who have not climbed all four pitches: you missed the good stuff! Instead of stopping at the bolts under the roof, just aid the roof and keep going. In 1962, the movie Psycho was the scariest ever. Layton Kor and Huntley Ingalls borrowed Hitchcock's title for a route as steep and scary as any climb the world had yet seen. PSYCHO SLAB Photo by Baker, 1973. It is easy to lose your head here!
Jun 1, 2015
The pin on P1, which was very suspect, is no longer there. We removed it today. A small TCU goes well in the pinscar. -Scott
Nov 17, 2009
The pin, which is the second piece of fixed gear, is a little loose.
Apr 14, 2009
Are the bolts any good on the roof pitch? They look old and manky from the top of the first.
Feb 4, 2004
This weekend I studied a home movie of Mark Tarrant and Darius Azin working the roof shortly after Steve Wunsch's FFA in 1975. Their beta agrees almost to the letter with AC's description except that it would appear that you can stack well up in the undercling with the feet still pasted on the vertical wall before launching the right hand. Mark's red point may have been the second complete ascent (??) inasmuch as he finished the Psycho slab above as well. The sequence looks positively terrific.
Apr 7, 2003
The roof pitch of Psycho is an excellent boulder problem, way up in the air. Worked through the moves today, and pretty much agree with the above beta, just some little differences with the feet. Definitely right hand intensive. It sure feels nice to hit that final jug at the lip after all of the body tension moves to get there!!! This is really a fantastic line and it is interesting that more people don't do it, although with how loose the flakes up there are, more traffic will result in a much harder route very soon.
Mar 27, 2002
Escalar - Here is a bit of beta on the roof. It is definitely hard 5.12. With the bolts so nearby, it can feel like a scary boulder problem (V5 or V6?). If you have ever seen the video "On the Rocks" from way back in the eighties, you will see Jerry Moffat on the roof (although they don actually show him finishing it). His method is not the way to do it, in my opinion. Once established under the roof, you will be underclinging a flake with both hands. Adjust your feet up high and reach way up and right (above the most obvious set of holds) to a small pinch. Next, lift your right foot up (both feet come off the wall) to the obvious set of holds below your right hand, and hook your heel in a small v-slot. The crux is next and invloves getting your left hand next to your right foot and hooking your thumb around the slot where your right foot is. Your right foot will come off the hold and then extend like mad for the lip which is a huge jug. Toe hook on the lip, (if you get it good it is super solid), and then reach to the lip with your right hand. This hold is so big that you can just about fly off and still manage to pull over the roof. Now for the scary part. Traverse back left along the lip of the roof and into the dihedral, then up to the anchors. Ive only gone to the anchors once. I prefer to just jump off the lip and not deal with frightening moves above the roof. Besides, there is really no reasonable way to second (free) such a big overhang. It is no harder to lead everything from the ground, but it is nice to have your belayer up under the roof with you for moral support. With all the great boulderers out there, it is surprising that this classic roof isn't done more often.
Jan 1, 2001
Esc. - I forgot to mention what you do with your left foot once it comes off the wall. After you hook your right heel into the v-slot, bring your left foot under and a little out from your right foot, onto a small edge using the outside part of the foot. This is actually crucial in stabilizing your body for the remainder of the moves. The Psycho roof is really like aerial bouldering. It takes vise-grip strength in your right hand and some pretty strong abs!
Jan 1, 2001
Did the left hand variation of this first pitch today known as wasabe. The roof on this is .12c (another onsight free solo for me;) however if you stop before the roof and traverse up and left to evangaline you have a nice .11b sporty route. This pitch is cool and sustained two star climbing. The second clip is a little peppery (spicy) as well as the first clip. This variation breaks left from the first bolt on psycho.
Jan 1, 2001
- Rosy Toit
While the climbing is fun, exposed, and generally quite easy, the gear past the pins really isn't great. I must disagree with Tony on this matter. There are a couple tiny brass nuts and a ballnut in shallow placements behind solid flakes. Otherwise, everything you could place is behind a hollow flake as far as I can tell. This is a small matter as the climbing really doesn't get harder than 9+/10- for any particular move, and the position is spectacular.
Oct 5, 2016
I'm going to agree that the rating is not as hard as most established Eldo 10c's. I'll also say that I don't think the gear is that bad, you get plenty of OK gear along the way and there is certainly enough available to make and ascent safe, provided you place it.In hindsight, it is too bad I didn't tie this into the second pitch of Le Toit for a single long pitch. The pitches would combine nicely, and despite the winging route that would have created, I believe that the judicious use of 2' slings would keep the rope drag down. TOo bad I didn't read this suggestion first.
May 31, 2004
There's good gear before the crux and a big horn that wraps nicely with a double-length sling after the crux. The 2 pins at the crux are junk, but the LA before them and the gear you can place below that pin are good. After the crux section, it's a moderate and run-out rising left traverse with one 9-ish move near the end. Certainly no worse for leader or 2nd than the Le Toit pitches that lead up to it.3 stars for position & moves. 2 stars for rock quality. 1 star for gear. Well worth doing!
Jun 16, 2003
- Scary Canary
Those 5.10+ sections are SO burly for 5.10+!
Apr 8, 2016
Purple C3 protects P1 pretty well, and back up the pin with a yellow Alien. Great route!!! WILD!!!!!!
Mar 6, 2016
Tried this for the first time today. Pretty F'ing rad. Once the beta is sorted out, it's not super difficult. .12c sounds about right. Very much different than other routes of similar grade in Eldo. Fixed gear seemed bomber.
Nov 4, 2014
I'm 0 for 2 on this route. The first thirty feet is so mega!
Apr 25, 2012
Every single one of you guys are bad ass!
Apr 9, 2009
Rob led P1 without clipping ANY of the fixed pro... just for kicks. You bad ass!!!
Apr 9, 2009
Nice one, Steven! Wow, this route has seen some action lately.
Jun 7, 2008
I second the "Freakin' Amazing" Rob! Probably the best 5.12 pitch I've done in Eldo. If you can climb 5.12 in Eldo, then get on this climb!
Jun 7, 2008
Steve, thank for showing me the route. I'm smitten with it now.
Jun 4, 2008
Nice send Rob!
Jun 2, 2008
Freakin' amazing route! The 2nd pitch went down this morning on my 3rd attempt. Hank, I agree with you about the 10+ sections. It's one of those climbs where the cruxes come low, but you can't celebrate yet because you may get smacked in the face near the end. The second pitch is one of the most unique climbs in Eldo. Last week after getting thru the crux corner I was shut down when I pulled around the corner slapping the tiny edges with pumped forearms(ahhhh). If you climb 12- in Eldo, get on this one. Don't let the grade scare you away.
May 30, 2008
Well, that bolt at end of P1 is still hard to clip for me. I'm 5'6" and actually need to do 2-3 extra moves just to start P1. Although being not very tall and quite flexible made P2 feel easier than the grade (so 12a for P1 and 12a/b for P2?). Two very cool (and different) pitches of the same route!
May 20, 2008
With regards to the heinous "10+" top of pitch one...It used to be even MORE heinous before the bolts were "replaced". Either holds broke/appeared or the bolt position got lowered down to an easier clipping stance. I remember it being very heinous just to clip the bolt! Maybe my memory is just bad...
Sep 10, 2007
I got it 2nd try overall, and Wayne got it on his 3rd try overall. I am officially calling the (10+) roof sequence on the 2nd pitch SOLID! 5.11!!!!!! Jeeeez Loouweez, 10+ my ass! Unbelievably good route. Perfect in every way, if you're into this kind of thing.
May 25, 2007
For once, I am now upgrading whole sections of a route, both pitches. The 11d on the 1st pitch is not that bad, but the 10+ at the top is heinous. On the second pitch, the 12b/c section didn't seem that bad but I fell on the (10+ c'mon!!!!) roof with bolts in your face. So I took a fall on each pitch, blowing what was to have been glorious flashes. Nevertheless, Roger and Bill Briggs are genius for establishing this route and I can't recommend it enough. Just watch out for the 10+ sections.......Godammit! P.S.- Who took the bail biner off the second pitch and relocated it to the first pitch? You sneaky shit! You know who you are and you think you are soooooooo sneaky.
May 19, 2007
I'm calling bullcrap on Rossiter's guidebook saying the end of pitch one is 10c. Almost a number grade harder in my opinion, but you got a bolt at your waist so that's nice. I didn't think the initial crux was as hard as being kinda flamed and slappin the slopes at the top. Really exciting, it's Temporary like Achilles' big mean brother. Thunder and lightning scares hampered efforts on the second pitch. Seems cool so far. P.S.-no slam on Rossiter personally, I just got hammered at the top of this pitch. Yeesh!
May 13, 2007
- Temporary Like Achilles
Generally protects well once you are past the twenty foot groundfall crux runout. Don't fall at the crux. The pin after the second bolt is still gone. There are plenty of placements between the last bolt and the anchor, and it's a clean fall.
May 24, 2016
That last pin was poor and I've always placed a purple Camalot right next to it and not bothered to clip the pin.
Apr 13, 2012
Wholly smokes, Batman! Why didn't anyone mention that the pin on the upper part of the first pitch is gone? Just about shat myself today when I got up there with a qd & no gear. Pucker factor of 9.3 after cranking the run-out 5.9 section & realizing that I had to continue running it out to the anchor.
Apr 11, 2012
Curious if anyone has some confirmed knowledge of other free ascents of the roof? Has anyone succeeded in freeing it after Ben Moon's FFA back in early '90s. It looks like one of the hardest routes in Eldo to me.
Dec 12, 2010
Even the best belayer would have a tough time keep you off the ground, if you blow the crux move down low. A #4 C4 is handy as your first piece after the crux, while a couple blue aliens will sew up the pumpy section after the bolts. A great winter morning climb....
Dec 29, 2008
Scary, no pro committing start off of that pointy flake. You can try to get some nuts in the top, but they probably wouldn't hold. A friend of mine saw Reardon on this climb (on rope) and he was sketched out about the start!
Dec 24, 2008
If you come off at the crux, you will most likely end up with more than a twisted ankle.
Feb 12, 2006
Watch out for the bee's nest in the flake. They usually don't get aggressive unless provoked, but the flake is loaded with them.
Aug 5, 2005
I believe that is the original aid line of ascent for Temporary. It goes free (on toprope for me) at around 11a.
Mar 18, 2005
Does anyone know the name of the route (toprope or necky lead) that starts as Temporary LIke Achilles but goes over the small roof at the first break where Temporary traverses left. It rejoins Temporary at it's second bolt. Thanks!
Mar 18, 2005
I put 3 pieces in to protect the traverse, but didn't trust them at all. I was wishing for a 3.5 Friend, which looked liked it would have fit perfectly just before you turn the roof and head for the bolt. The start is definitely an ankle-buster, but pretty dang soft for .10c!
Mar 9, 2004
History: From High Over Boulder, 1970:FA 1967 by Pat Ament and Larry Dalke.But... it goes on to say "first lead of this route was first done in 1967 by Layton Kor and Cub Schaefer." So did Ament and Dalke top rope it? Strange."About seven paces uphill of Evangeline is the start of this phenomenal adventure."
Feb 15, 2003
I followed this a few days ago (Josh Janes led), so take this with a grain of salt. Leo says above that the traverse left is bad news. Josh got a decent green 3/4 Camalot in a hole in the back of the red band before the start of the traverse. Then a red #1 Camalot straight up a few feet left. He then re-placed the red Camalot in a straight down crack. So the protection on the traverse is OK. The initial moves up to the red band are a possible ground fall as you stand up (good cam to start and possible wire at the top of the flake). And if you're short, it could be really scary getting established on the red band.
Feb 15, 2003
Temporary Like Achilles is a Dylan song from Blonde on Blonde, 1966. One verse begins, "Kneeling 'neath your ceiling yes I guess I'll be here for a while." I thought this climb might have been named after the song because of the semi-crawling traverse low down. But, thinking about it, the FA on aid did not do the traverse. Maybe it was named this because of the hanging belay below the roof, or perhaps it's just coincidental that a line in the song would seem relevant to climbing.
Feb 15, 2003
Do not fall on the left-angling terrain above the flake. You and the ground might become awfully familiar with each other. This deserves an R or S for sure.
Mar 7, 2002
Escalar - The original start, rated 5.10+, is about 8ft left of the start that you described. Most people now climb the much easier start on the right, 5.10b. The original start is actually quite hard--I think its 5.11a, and reachy. It's much better to toprope this because a fall might put you on the ground if your belayer doesn't pull in rope. Once you reach the rotten band, the remainder of the pitch is about .10a and lots of fun. Has anyone done a second ascent of the roof? "The Undertaker 5.13+". By the way the route above the roof, Hands in the Clouds, 5.12a, is very exciting and excellent.
Jan 1, 2001
Escalar- Its interesting what you said about the origional start being to the left. Do you mean starting up the flake and going left up to the really thin crimps? Ive never done that and it always looked significantly harder than .10+, I just had a friend who did it the other day onsight on lead _im pretty sure it was this line and not farther left_, and said that he thought it was about .11c, im curious because the rossiter eldo guide can be a bit nebulous at times.
Jan 1, 2001
Esc. - Yes, that's probably it. After thinking about it, this start is directly up the flake and onto the face after the flake arches to the left. It is only about 4 ft left of where the .10b start goes right. Years ago there was an upside down pin in the upper part of the arch, but it's gone. That is the way most people used to climb it. You end up smearing onto some slopers above the flake and reaching for an A-shaped hold, then paddling up to the rotten band. It is probably .11a if you are tall, and harder if you're not. It's a pretty exciting lead, especially on-sight.
Jan 1, 2001
- Trippin
I am curious if anybody has even tried this thing since it was done? I am guessing not by the amount of lichen on the roof. Seems like kinda a silly route, or "totally core bro" depending on your perspective.
Nov 30, 2017
- Tubesock Tanline
I don't know Crusher. I've never heard anyone else call Sherman "shy and bashful"!! Maybe modest and humble, respectful and unpretentious, unassuming and tasteful? Maybe none of those? I don't know. I guess someone as unique and flamboyant as John Sherman defies description. But you could certainly call him one hell of a good climber!!
Mar 21, 2008
Me lead it? Hell no. This is Verm's recommendation, not mine (as is the two stars). He's kinda shy and bashful. Besides, I'd certainly not call myself a competent Eldo climber.
Jun 19, 2003
Eric Johnson led this last summer in his effort to conquer his list of (personally) undone hard and heinous obscurities. His onsight attempt resulted in a fall that was held by the upside down kb, equalized with a small RP. He fell about 25ft and the rope caught him as he decked, providing just enough stretch to keep bones from getting broken. He went back up and sent it next try.
Jun 16, 2003
Recommended??? Did you lead it Steve???
Jun 15, 2003
- Wasabe
^^^ Thanks for replacing those "old" bolts. They had been there long enough and always seemed weird. Thanks again.
Oct 12, 2017
The 4 ring bolts on the face were replaced with glue-ins.
Oct 12, 2017
It does still go as of this date. I watched a guy do it just the other day. I don't remember there ever being much for the feet to work with on this one to begin with. True that height, could be an issue on this one, Tony.
Mar 21, 2008
I don't know what was on the roof before, but that thing is a bunch of choss. I broke a bunch of foot holds when I was on it, and I don't think it goes anymore if you are a sub sixer.
Sep 26, 2006
Mark Rolofson has been and is a great (and underappre-ciated) resource to the climbing community. He has much experience removing old bolts and placing new & improved bolts at Eldorado, even on the Roof routes. I would suggest seeking his expertise in a project to upgrade the bolts here & in Eldo.
Apr 4, 2002
I certainly did not want to recommend that people lower off of a single bolt--even if it's been done many times. Climbing left to the anchors on Evangeline is the smartest and safest way to get off this route, unless you actually lower from the anchor above the roof (then you have to figure out how to follow it--exciting!). A fixed anchor at the base of the roof would solve the problem if the Park would approve. I'm not sure how strong the old ring bolts are. It would be nice to replace these as well (on this route and others). Removing them might be quite a task, and the resulting hole will be too big in diameter (~9/16") to fill with the bolts presently being used. They are driven in about 1.25" and use a cone to expand them at the back, making for questionable pull-out strength. Plus, they can be hard to clip when the ring falls flat against the surface of the rock. If someone was up to the project it would be a nice service to everyone.
Apr 3, 2002
You can angle up the face to the next set of anchors and then descend. Or, you can submit a proposal to the FHRC to add a bolt for an intermediate anchor.
Apr 1, 2002
It would be nice if these ring bolts were replaced with modern bolts. The majority of people who get on this seem to just do the face. You can lower off a single bolt if you don't mind dying, or reach down from the last bolt on the face and thread the rope through the top two bolts. A pain. It would be nice if there were 2 bolts at the base of the roof to lower off of.
Apr 1, 2002
- Wisdom, The
Linking the whole rig in one pitch (p1 to 3) from the ground is the way to go! It puts the icing on the 11d and might just be the best pitch in Eldo, or for that fact the Front Range! With careful slinging, rope drag isn't too bad, and the pump is a little more without hanging on that bolted anchor after the roof. Wild! And a must do!
Apr 15, 2017
Wow what a route! I had built this route up in my head for so long! Wish I had gotten on it sooner. Definitely my favorite of the Roof routes! Single rack is perfect, 0.4-2, just depends on what you're getting on after! There is a fixed nut that backs up the hard-to-see pin.
Feb 8, 2017
Some random historical info about the FFA in response to a few of the older comments regarding the hanging belay. According to Climbing magazine issue 49 July-August 1978, at the time of Bachar's ascent, there was one bolt where the belay for the crux pitch is now, placed by Jim Erickson on aid in '75. Jim got flack for this and stopped trying the route. Two years later John was trying to link what is now the second and third pitch without using the belay. During his ascent, Bachar pulled the initial roof, clipped the lone bolt, and cast off out the traverse and into the crux without placing gear in the hole at the start of the difficulties. John apparently then became overwhelmed with where he had climbed himself to (I bet!) and forced a shallow nut in the arch mid-crux, hung on the nut, and then lowered back to the bolt. Not satisfied with his attempt, John untied, pulled the rope, and started climbing from the bolt pushing the lead to the top of the pitch. A week or so later, Glenn Randall went up with Steve Wunsch and Dan Stone for the second ascent without knowing Bachar had hung on the bolt. Randall was the only one with the huevos to try and send and linked the two roof pitches into what I imagine was one hell of a leg shaker. Sometime after that Rob Candelaria took a 70 footer on it trying for the 3rd ascent. Aside from the story, the bolts at the hanging belay seem legit as the first ascent was not a true ledge to ledge link. A fun thing to do, if you're not as tough as Scott Bennett, is link the first two with plenty of runners and set yourself up for a nice rest at the belay before doing the hard climbing. -cheers
Dec 4, 2016
Led this free in 1980. Best route I did in Eldorado. Unique.
Jul 15, 2016
You don't need much gear at all for this route, even if linking pitches. For an onsight rack, placing everythign worthwhile, it's just a few pieces (total) across all 4 leads. P1 - the crux piton is hard to see and hard to clip if you're short. Locate it from the base. Any other possible gear looks worthless. Higher up past the choss and piton #2 there's a good finger-sized crack. 1 draw, 1 sling, 1 small cam. Don't slip! P2 - 2 draws. Nowhere for anything else on this tiny pitch. P3 - a couple finger cams, a #2 for the crux, and a #0.75 or #1 for after that. P4 - a QD for the replaced bolt on the psycho slab. Maybe another random cam somewhere in the easy climbing? Belay off a tree.
Nov 11, 2015
Linked first pitch of Scary Canary into this route. It was an awesome link and full value fun climbing.
Mar 11, 2013
In reply to the above post, yes this climb goes easily in one pitch, it's about 50m in total (p1-3, I'm not sure about adding the Psycho Slab). With long slings, strategic runouts, and a skinny rope, I didn't feel there was any ropedrag at the crux. Also, there's no reason to haul 2 gold Camalots up the route. If you wanna double down on gear before the crux, there's a great purple Camalot in the left side of the undercling pod. Scott
Dec 1, 2012
Many years ago I met Jim Garber at Morrison while doing the Wisdom Simulator, and he said that he used that boulder problem to train for this route.
Aug 7, 2012
I've heard that there is a climb in Morrison, Co, that was used to train for a climb up in Eldo. The climb is called Upper Wisdom or if you want, Full Wisdom. I wonder if this is the climb that was talked about?
Aug 7, 2012
Anyone know if pitches 1-3 have been linked into a single pitch? Seems very doable.
Mar 13, 2012
On the FA with Kor and Ament, it was done on a snowy, cold day, and Pat was 14!
Jan 11, 2011
Wow, what an incredible climb! Definitely R for the bottom half of the 1st pitch. Good nuts or a big RP back up the pin nicely. Of the 3 pitches, P2 felt the hardest and pumpiest, even with a top rope belay! This pitch is airy and exciting and the reason this climb gets 4 instead of 3 stars. In accordance with most other comments, P3 seemed a tough mental pitch as you commit and get your feet 4-5' above your bomber gear before you can place another very good yellow Alien size. However, contrary to most other comments, these moves seemed easier than traversing down the roof on P2. Maybe I got lucky with the foot work or found a secret hold. I dunno, but this is likely the first route I've ever been on in Eldo that felt quite a bit easier than the consensus grade.
Apr 18, 2010
It seems that the anchors on the hanging slab (top of pitch two) are a point of aid. There is no obvious belay ledge there and it is just used to make the crux easier. I think Bachar had the real vision for a free ascent, ledge to ledge (combine pitch 2 and 3).
Apr 18, 2010
Finally got on this after thinking about it for 2 years. While it is a little scary to climb above the gear, there are no features below the crux, so I don't really think it is an R route. You are more likely to get hurt on the first pitch in my opinion. The crux is about V3, with jugs at the top - not as bad as I expected. Put 2 #2 Camalots in and go for it!
Sep 28, 2009
After reading the description and Mark T's comment, I believe there is more historical info to the "second" pitch. I believe that for its FA, there was no bolt in the roof protecting the downclimb traverse!! I believe that pro was arduously placed up in the Scary Canary corner and most likely then the pin in the roof which is still there. Correct me if I am wrong.... I must admit, for better or for worse, in 1996, with Park permission, I replaced the bolts of the hanging belay (point of aid) for the "third" pitch. The Wisdom was one of my favorite routes to do then and of course I felt I was doing a community service.... What a way more proud ascent it would be to eliminate the hanging belay and do the "second" and "third" pitches like JB did for its FFA!!! I've never done it that way. (That left, old Star-Drive bolt did come out frighteningly easily and the other was not too much more difficult!!)
Sep 10, 2007
Amen Stocker I agree it is only 11d if you don't send it. A nice comfy rest when you take does help out the pump significantly. Better bring two tickets to the Gun Show to send, the feet are nonexistent through the crux. I'm renaming this route in fine Mountain Project fashion. I dub thee, "The Mother @#?!&!". So sick it makes my palms sweat thinking about it. Don't bother getting on it, it's over rated.
Sep 9, 2007
This thing is 12a blah blah blah.... 11d if you can't send. I love this route got to be one of Eldo's best. Wait, I say that about every route in Eldo. Screw it I just love climbing in Eldo. All the routs ROCK!
Sep 7, 2007
Check out the latest issue of Rock and Ice (#161) for some great shots of "The Wisdom" roof. The article on Hank is pretty funny, also.
May 27, 2007
Finally decided to give this thing a whirl today, and what a stellar line. The first two pitches as one was definitely the way to go. the third pitch, although not so hard once you've seen the holds, is hard to see/read from the belay and committing to the moves on slick/blind feet will get you crimping hard. Not as scary as I was expecting, but still has some spice! I was able to carry a light rack on this one, which helps on the steep stuff (single set from black Alien to #3 Camalot, double on #2 Camalot for crux). I'd say it's the best of the roof routes...I've yet to do.
Dec 18, 2004
The first two pitches, linked together, made one of the most spectacular pitches I've yet to do in Eldo. The pin on the "first" pitch is not visible until you are literally face-to-face with it. This led to some pumpy and futile gear tinkering in the scoop below. The pin looks pretty good, certainly better than the manky nuts that I thought were going to protect the crux. "Pitch 2" has incredible position and exposure for being only 100 feet off the deck... this pitch is probably more scary for the follower than the leader. One 60 meter rope will just barely get you down from here.
Oct 1, 2003
A tidbit of trivia about the FFA of pitch one: Jim Erickson: "We were all trying the first pitch, but nobody was willing to do the unprotected 5.10 move. Along came Ed (Webster) hiking up the roof routes trail. He was young, impressionable, and out to make a name for himself. So he tied in and we sent him up there. Thankfully, he got the rope up there for us."
May 8, 2003
I had been scared of this route for a long time, and finally tried it. It wasn't as bad as I expected, but most of what is said about the route is true. Here is some gear beta. You might use different gear, but this will give you an idea of what to bring. P1 - blue Alien (or #0 Metolius), #1 Metolius, small stoppers, and quickdraws. P2 (roof) - 2 quick draws is all you need. P3 (crux) - #00 Metolius, 2 #2 Camalots for falling off the crux, #1 Camalot, #3 Camalot, and quickdraws. P4 (Psycho Slab) - #2 Camalot, quickdraw. I find cutting almost straight right across the slab on small edges (for fingers) the easiest way to go.
Jan 6, 2003
From Rocky Heights: "History: An aid climb (5.8, A4 by Layton Kor and Pat Ament in 1961), it was subjected to free climbing attempts in the mid-seventies. The first pitch was lead free in 1975 by Ed Webster. The main roof was lead free in 1975 by Art Higbee after a few tries. The final roof was lead free by John Bachar after a couple of attempts."
Jun 4, 2002
I've got an old issue of "Climbing" (July 1978) which accurately describes the first ascent(s). Each pitch received separate FAs. John Bachar did the FA of the entire route. Pitch one FA: E. Webster. Pitch two FA: Candelaria or Higbee. Pitch three FA: Bachar. The article is pretty interesting. It sounds like they avoided the hanging belay above second pitch (hanging belays were considered aid), and just combined the second and third pitches--pretty exciting.The route was tried by some of the best climbers back then, but some were reluctant to do it because of the bolt placed above the roof--it was considered illegal, degrading, and ruined the route for some! Times sure have changed. The Wisdom is an Eldo classic. Back in the '80's the best hard-man combo was to do The Wisdom to Jules Verne to Lene's Dream to the Naked Edge.
Oct 15, 2001
- Redgarden - S Buttress
- A Breed Apart
Worthless squeeze job.
Aug 14, 2012
The rack for this climb is one 2.5" cam, then 2-3 each .75"-1.5" cams. That way you can double-down whenever you can get pro. As well, instead of pulling right the last few feet to finish on Blackwalk, you can ride a left-leading solid, clean fingers-to-wide-fingers crack (1-1.5") a far a ways up toward the anchor at 28M at the top of Blackwalk. This climb should probably carry the 11a rating, but is tougher for an on-sight. Fear notwithstanding, the crux move is kinda slick and hard- while gear is just below the feet you will be a little off kilter here-twisted and leaning, and a fall would be unpleasant though short. That said, you'd understand why I was F'ing around on it for a while trying to figure out a better position/move. Though I was on TR, the intention was a preview for a lead because I am a chicken about obscure R-rated 5.11s. What should be the real discouragement from leading is not the crux, nor the subjective hazard of falling off in the 'easy' section (5.10) where it is runout. Rather, it is the objective hazard of a shattered, 'crunchy' hold about 1/2 way through the runout popping. It is shifty as it is. I pulled on it pretty Darn hard before I saw what I was on and then when I saw it and looks down at the distance to last available pro, I didn't like it. Your opinion may vary, and while you'd have to flash this route to really experience it (as the crux will be 11a, not 11b/c once previewed), I can't in good conscience suggest that is a good idea. There's one time bomb up there in a dangerous spot, and it's blind until you make the move.
Nov 17, 2003
- Anthill Direct
Like everyone else says, doing the Touch & Go start creates a very solid route. Here's what we did: P1 T n G - Even tho I've done this a lot, it somehow remains hard and was definitely the crux of the climb for me. P2 - Keep the belay at the bolts, walk across the huge ledge and start up the wall heading for a vertical crack. Routefinding is easier and there's pro on this pitch. The roof seems like 5.7 not 8. 2 pins in vertical crack above a small but comfortable ledge for belay. P3 - Quite unnerving, as you're not sure where to go and it's certainly runout; the belay ledge is welcome. P4 - Up another vertical crack (2 pins) under the obvious huge flake, then keep going for the "direct" dihedral (actually another flake). If you launch a full layback it's simple (5.8?), but if you try to finesse it, you're leaning in and neither your hands or feet can stick and it will be a struggle. I continued this pitch all the way up onto the East Slabs, because from that same belay I immediately lowered my partner down to the trees, which saved her a bunch of time downscrambling the Slabs.
Oct 8, 2007
Can be and might best be done as 3 pitches total from the ground to summit. P1 to bolted belay on ramp, P2 to just under first roof on AHD, P3 to summit slabs. P2 requires a 70m rope if done to the best belay, or simul-climbing. A gear belay higher on the ramp makes it possible with a 60m. Top pitch might also get close to 60m or longer depending on where you want to belay.
Nov 12, 2016
There's gear on P3, but it's tricky and not often pretty. The moves out on P5 are fantastic!, but then you have endless slab. We started on Touch N' Go. I highly recommend doing the Vertigo raps to get down.
Oct 27, 2016
I'd highly recommend scrambling your way to the top of Ruper and the Pigeon rappel as described on the S. Buttress page by David Champion. Basically from the top of the route, head N on 3rd class terrain for 70m until there is an opportunity to step left into a bolder/tree filled gully. From here, it's a well-travelled path up to the top of Ruper which is on your left at a mangled tree. From here, scramble up (N) into a slot at the bottom of which is the rap station. 3 raps to the Vertigo ledge. Much easier than East Slab. On pitch 3, I choose to traverse generally more to the left than up and eventually reached a crack like feature that I was able to protect. There was a tricam that the webbing had been cut from which may have been the one described. It seemed like going up at more of a 45 (rather than mostly left) from the belay might have been better holds, but getting to a place I could protect seemed worth it. Good luck!
Feb 21, 2016
Note that at the top of pitch 4, the 2ft by 1ft flake mentioned by WT in 2003 is still precariously perched on the angling ramp right at the belay. I'm amazed this didn't slide or get pulled or kicked off in the last twelve years. Be careful. And another vote for the original pitch one. Really enjoyed it. Thought provoking and airy in spots, classic Eldo climbing.
Nov 1, 2015
Did BfG as P1. The poison ivy on P2 is easily avoided going a bit right. Fun route on a perfect October day!
Oct 10, 2015
I was not as enthralled by this route as a lot of people. It was okay but not great. The 3rd pitch is a bit runout, but I would not say R, PG-13 at best, and definitely only 5.6. The crux is a 1 move wonder, I don't think 9- is accurate. I am not one to downgrade routes, but it seemed pretty casual. Still a fun route, just not as great as I was expecting.
Nov 7, 2014
Wahoo! What a great climb. Always wanted to get on this thing and climb Touch N Go. Did both and they were fun. A little run out on P3 but I was able to find ample gear. The crux pitch isn't Eldo 5.9- if you find the knee bar beta.
Sep 18, 2014
P1: Cool and varied, but best led by someone comfortable leading above the grade. Some runouts and routefinding. Feels a bit mountaineer-y. P2: The first roof is easier than it looks. Not harder than 5.7 and easier if you do it just right. The upper roof felt like solid 5.8. In between is a lot of nice slab climbing. P3/P4: I've climbed the route twice and we combined these both times. Makes for a long, runout pitch with some interesting climbing. Not clean enough to be super-classic, but still pretty good. P5: The 5.9- direct finish is nice, clean, and fun. The 5.5 "original" finish to the left is horrible. The rock out there is covered with lichen and somewhat friable. Unquestionably the worst pitch I've climbed in Eldo. Do yourself a favor and do the direct. I have a hard time giving this route more than two stars. Sure it's a classic line, but there are much better options at or near the grade. Ruper, Yellow Spur, Long John Wall, and Allosaur are all far superior.
Aug 7, 2014
Did the original pitch 1 today, misinterpreted the route & ended up trying to climb that rotten flake at the traverse to the pin. Pulled a piece off and almost yarded on the precariously placed gear below me. Took a minute to get moving to the left. I'll never make that mistake again.
Jun 19, 2014
At the belay ledge below pitch 5 (and the roof), there is a 1x2 ft loose block that could easily slide free. It blends into the contours of the ledge and is not obvious. Take care!
Apr 26, 2014
As a few people have said, P3 & P4 go together very nicely. The Touch 'n' Go start is a great way to start the climb. Not having tried the original start, I don't know which is better, so I will go back and do the original start before I pass judgment.
Apr 25, 2014
Good route. Combine p3 & p4 for more comfortable belays and a nice long pitch. Use long runners. Nothing all that great about the original p1. Fairly well-protected but just not that stimulating. Perhaps one or two cool moves at the top.
Jul 17, 2013
Original p.1 was way sketchier than p.3. P.3 has better rock, better gear and easier, more secure climbing. The bolt on p.1 was just bizarre - it seemed to be located in the middle of a less-run-out section. The original start is worth doing once, but so far I've liked every other way up to the lower meadows better. Otherwise, this is a fantastic climb! You can head up 400 ft of scrambling on the East slabs to reach the crest or access one of the towers or the Chockstone Chimney raps. Alert!!! Watch for poison ivy over the first roof on p.2.
Oct 22, 2012
I recommend doing the original pitch 1. While the gear maybe isn't the greatest in spots, the climbing is quite nice and it is very sustained. T&G is great, but if you have never tried the original first pitch, you should.
Oct 21, 2012
Did this with Soren (11) and his uncle Eric yesterday. Way fun. Silly Eric lead 3, 4, and 5 as one. 70 meter ropes gets it fine (provided your gear is minimal and in line).
Oct 8, 2012
A long forgotten (?) variation is listed in Rossiter's book but not in Levin's modern version: instead of diagonalling up and left for pitch 3, go straight up the arete. Stay slightly right at the start, and then follow the natural features back left to the arete. Rossiter's topo shows a 5.6ish traverse up and left meeting the pins on the original pitch 4. A more exciting variation is to skip the leftward traverse (there's a bit of loose rock at the start of this), pull a short steep section on jugs, and hit a right-leaning, 12 foot open-book (5.8+ (?) crux) with good gear. Continue up the arete, and then find the belay spot just below the 'under-the-roof-rightward-traverse' on the crux pitch. Beware of rope drag on this long pitch.
Oct 29, 2011
Climbed for the first time in about 20 plus years, nice long route. I wouldn't skip the first pitch w/ cams there seemed to be plenty of gear. Good Eldorado spice in my book.
Oct 15, 2011
T&G and the direct finish. Great line, I felt that pitch 2 was the money pitch, pulling both little roofs was a blast. Don't short yourself by skipping the first roof by traversing in from the left! Would also recommend linking 4&5 (direct) if you are confident at the grade. If you sling your pieces long on p4 (its 5.6ish climbing if that), it's a pretty straight line. Direct finish was fun, protected very well and was 2 moves max on a good, positive, layback block.
Aug 22, 2010
Okay, I'll have to go against the grain here. I just did the route - I led P 1, 3, and 5. P5, the "crux" was EASY. The real crux was P1. Loose rock, poor hands, and poor gear. I was never 100% sure that my handholds would stay attached, and I'd expect a good portion of my gear to rip if I took a fall. I did actually pull one handhold. Yes, there is one nice modern bolt. One bolt in 160 feet does not good protection make. The supposed "R" rated pitch, (P3) was a breeze in comparison. Good rock, and small but decent gear, and certainly enough of it if you really hunt for it. I think I got a good piece every ten feet. My only other comment is that I did not like the gear available to make an anchor atop P3. There was a large block that looked like it would take a #3 Camalot, but when I tested it, the block moved. My best piece in the anchor was the first pin of the next pitch - fortunately I had a cordelette which, when fully extended, reached down to the belay ledge from the pin.
May 24, 2010
Awesome route. I would recommend linking pitches 3 & 4 instead of 4 & 5, the rope line is better and it provides an amazing and airy 150ft pitch. I don't think the direct finish up top is much harder than the roof on pitch 2, and it's a short section.
May 12, 2010
Uh yeah, I know there are signs on the trail showing which routes are closed. Hard to miss....
May 6, 2010
Errrr, isn't this route closed now?
May 5, 2010
Mega classic, Get on it no matter how you start the first pitches.... Great route....
Jan 19, 2010
Agree with everyone who suggested Touch N' Go into Anthill Direct. Not a bad pitch among them all and the direct finish was a great way to cap off a great moderate route. For P4 I feel like it was harder than .5 climbing past the pins above the belay.
Sep 1, 2009
It is possible to link P3 and P4 for a ~190ft lead. Just make sure you place long runners on the key pieces of gear.
Oct 20, 2008
Excellent direct finish! Do it!
Nov 17, 2007
First climbed this fantastic route when I moved to Colorado, 11/87. I was young and strong, lead every pitch (Touch N' Go w/ 5.9 finish) on a perfect fall day. Almost 19 years later, I'm climbing it again (following mostly). Without climbing much in the past 5 years - talked a young guy into doing it - I got to lead the 5.6. After reading the comments it seems that this pitch can be done numerous ways. I went the way that Darin Lang describes, and it was just as runout and heady as I remembered it to be - I backed off at first - then told myself that I have never fallen on a 5.6 - so just moved through it - I put pro in wherever I had an opportunity. The tattered tricam is STILL fixed - it is a good visual reference (target). There is a small fixed wire about 18" below the useless tricam - much appreciated after ~20' of no pro. I went straight up past the tricam to the next strata and then left to a good (sloping) belay ledge - right below the crack for Pitch 4. The ledge is 18" wide with grass growing in the inside crack/seam. I slung the large & small horns at the top of sloping ledge, put a #4 tricam at the base of the large horn, got a yellow Alien into a solid crack right behind where I sat. I missed the 1.5" bomber placement 3' above me. The start of the 4th pitch is 5.7 (Erickson 1980) then into 5.5 cracks - there are two fixed pitons for pro at the start. We did not do the 5.9 finish as my forearms were spent - so we went left and then up to the "top" with the full length of a 60m rope. Do the 5.9 direct if you want to finish this climb on a high note. The Anthill finish is covered with lichen and not a lot of fun. There is still poison ivy at the start to Touch N' Go and also at the start to the second pitch - I hope we were successful in avoiding it - time will tell.
Aug 8, 2006
Seems like people are still avoiding the real first pitch of Anthill Dirrect. Don't. It's quite good and challenging. The two(?) old bolts have been replaced. There is adequate but not abundant gear, so it's safe but a little exciting in places. It's also a little airy in places. If you've never done Touch and Go then by all means do T&G as a start to Anthill Direct, else give the real Anthill Direct P1 a go.
Sep 19, 2004
Did the route for the first time today. The park got closed because of the Friday fire below Mickey Mouse rock, so we basically had the park to ourselves and a handful of others. Did Touch and Go for P1 and then the standard P2. The 5.6 S traverse was very exciting and we had trouble deciding where to belay. If you look at the Ivan R. photo of the route with the white dots, you can see a large horizontal ledge that marks the P4 right traverse on 5.5 ground. Somehow, we got far left of this and almost went to Redguard. There is a fixed red tricam and some unrecognizable piece of metal in a crack here. In any case, we saw light chalk marks and a crack going straight up. This cracks starts as a deep cleft big enough to hold you inside and then traverses right. This line is obviously not climbed often, as there is a lot of lichen. There is a continuous undercling crack and good feet that takes you to a half pulled out old rusty ring pinton. Keep traversing left and there is a crack going up. I ended up belaying above this on a little ledge. You are in another red layer of sandstone with good traversing holds. Instead of belaying above, move right and belay just below the P5 5.9 pitch. This last traverse is a little run out, but not much. I would say this is the forgotten variation. It's not in Rossiter's guide as far as I can tell. It's actually pretty good rock, so if you get off route and find yourself here, no worries. Definitely do the 5.9 finish as it is very good quality and is fairly soft for the grade.
Sep 18, 2004
Great Route! Touch and Go was the hardest part.
Aug 5, 2004
Having never done this route, I thought it would be a good adventure as a self-belay. It was a bit more adventure than I bargained for, with me getting totally gripped on the 6s traverse, and having to deal with the tail end of my rope blowing horizontally to the east.Pitch 1 (5.8 not s): As others have said, the regular start is worthwhile. The new bolt is useful, but is before the hard climbing. It's a bit runout getting to the bolt, but not too hard. There is gear above the bolt. Move left, clip an old pin, and get a couple of good pieces higher. Now the hard climbing begins. Move left again, clip a better pin, step up, and place a good #4 Friend/3.5 Camalot to protect the last hard moves. The traverse left along the red band looks rotten, but is quite solid with occasional gear, and is not hard.Pitch 2 (5.8): Climb the ceiling at about 5.7 or traverse in from further left. There is a bit of a move about half way up the slab. The ceiling is buckets, one hand jam, and big feet. This felt like the easiest pitch to me, despite its 5.8 rating.Pitch 3 (6s): I started traversing left from the pin. It starts with good hands, but those run out. You're on sloping footholds with small finger holds or slopers. This is where I got gripped. Traversed back right, tried 6 feet higher (looks reasonable but still scary with a drop before the big swing), and 6 feet lower (too hard). So I found a better way with decent gear and big positive holds: Do not clip that pin. Instead, from just right of the pin, move up and get a good cam in a downward hanging flake. Move back right about 6 feet to big holds and up left to a flake/block. Sling the block with a double-length thin sling. Just left of this is a very shallow cam placement for a 1.5 friend (.75 Camalot?). Move straight left from here on big, positive holds and occasional gear. You end up with your feet a couple feet above that old fixed tricam.Pitch 4 (5.7): This is rated 5.5 in the guide but felt more like 7 to me. Climb past 2 pins using laybacks for your left hand. Continue angling right to the arête, gain the ramp, and angle back left to a belay.Pitch 5 (5.9): I also agree that this is not a one move wonder. There is a decent stance below the layback. You can back up the pin with a #3.5 Friend/#3 Camalot. Layback around the main part of the roof to a partial stance. You can place a piece here (I used a green Alien), but it's hard to stop. You need to do a couple more layback moves before you get a rest. Much easier climbing leads to the top.
Dec 7, 2003
Agree with Ernie. Direct finish is not a one move wonder.
Sep 22, 2003
We climbed this today via the Touch & Go start, which I lead, and I followed the upper pitches using the direct (9) finish. My partner combined P4 & 5 into one awesome pitch. After climbing it and reading some of the comments above , I have to agree with most, but disagree with Tonya's comment regarding the crux dihedral being just one move. It involves stemming up under the dihedrals steep corner and laying back, up and around for about 10' or more until you reach easier ground. IMO its fairly graded at (9) but more of a sustained sequence punching through that crux...great route.
Sep 21, 2003
We did this route with the Touch and Go start on 9/18/03. Couple of comments: First, what a great route... Kor Grade all the way... The route in general felt "stout", old time ratings, if you will. The exposure on the traverse and the next pitch (3 and 4 as described) is cool and/or unnerving depending on your mental state. Pitch 4 looked quite harder than the advertised 5.5 but it all works out, balancy though, not your "learn to lead" 5.5 These two pitches could turn into a real bad time if you get off route... At the belay station at the bottom of the 5th pitch (5.9 direct) there is a 2x1 ft flake that has become detached. It sits at your feet while belaying and provides a really tempting handhold when reaching the belay. We thought about trundling it yesterday but there was lots of activity at the base of the climb. If this goes it could kill someone below so tread lightly. Also, as you begin the awkward traverse at the start of the 5.9 pitch, avoid yarding on a rock that sticks downward from the rotten band. It's toaster size and it is ready to come down too... Have fun... WT
Sep 19, 2003
With the Touch 'n Go start and the direct finish, this is one of the classics of Eldorado at its grade.
Sep 2, 2003
A good route but not great. Do the 5.9 section of the 5th pitch. Very fun!! I skipped th 5.6s section because it was wet. Went around to the right side of the arete and then traversed back in on the ledge up higher. Do not recommend it though as there is a lot of loose stuff and you are right above your belayer at times.
Sep 2, 2003
The upper pitches are vertical and the exposure is really amazing for such a moderate climb. The pictures below really bring that out. This is a great route when you want to "show Eldo off" to a visitor who wants to keep it under 5.10. A lot of the climbing on it feels dramatic. Ruper's upper pitches have the same characteristics, but it is a little deflated by the enormous ramp below you and feeling of confinement offered by the massive dihedral you climb in.
Aug 27, 2003
Don't let the "S" rating on pitch 3 prevent you from doing this climb - It's fun! I led it yesterday and found the pro pretty adequate (if you consider the fixed pins "adequate" pro). I placed an orange metolius about 8 feet over the belay and then headed left along the strata of the rock where I found a fixed pin after about 10 feet. I then climbed left and slightly up to the bleached tri-cam (do not use this!!). I was able to place a green alien and backed it up with a yellow metolius in a shallow slot below. From here head straight up 10 feet to another ramp/ledge about 2' wide. I headed left on the ledge, placed a #2 camalot in a pocket on the ledge (at your feet) and then angled up and left towards a promising looking crack. From the crack to the belay the pro is good and plentiful. If you look hard, you can keep the runout to less than ten feet!
Aug 25, 2003
Good route. I led the original first pitch and liked it. It's mildly runout and not that bad(5.8s). A bit chossy getting around the bulge at the top of the ramp but protected with a bolt and shortly after an old piton. A long pitch however, a full sixty meters from the bottom of the ramp to the anchor. Every pitch of Anthill Direct was fun. The third pitch is a tad runout, but again, not that bad. Well worth doing again.
Aug 18, 2003
There is another way to get on Anthill Direct without doing Touch 'n Go or the original first pitch. It used to be called "Variation to the Lower Meadow" but I'm not sure if that name has stuck. It's about 5.6 or so and pretty good quality. Just climb the obvious ramp left of Redguard Route's first pitch for about 100 feet and belay (near where T&G's first pitch comes up). Then angle up and slightly right, over an overhang that is easier than it appears and then straight up to the Lower Meadow. Using this start, the crux becomes the overhang above the Lower Meadow.
Dec 3, 2002
Yeah, nice to see a brand-spanking new bolt on the overlooked first pitch. There's nothing wrong with this pitch. Charles Vernon, you should climb it, if you haven't yet, and see how you like it. Kudos to ACE / FHRC for purchasing the hardware and to those who volunteered their time to upgrade fixed hardware during Celebrate Eldorado. Your good deeds set an example for others to follow.
Dec 3, 2002
Climbed on December 1, 2002....a perfect route this time of the year as the sun stays with you all the way to the top. My partner, Tom Wilson, and I did the original standard route from bottom to the top by swinging leads, and we wanted to share our experiences. Personally, I am not quite ready to lead Touch n' Go and I recently had my first leader fall on P1 of Redguard, so consequently we opted for the original direct start just to the left of Genesis despite the fact that it is not recommended - we simply had no other choice, and we wanted to get on this route. While this pitch is considered 5.8 S,` it was much easier for me, given I am 5'2" and do well on delicate balancy moves. A new bolt was recently placed on this route making the pitch much safer. The most challenging section is getting around the bulge as there is a bit of exposure and little in terms of hand holds. The feet are solid. Just protect your second every chance you get. The little roof problem at the top of P2 required us both to use arm jams but posed no problem as it was easily protected. The 5.6 S rating on P3 is perfectly rated. We stayed directly in the dark streak and went pretty far left before hitting a nice ledge, where we could set a semi hanging belay. Yes the little tri-cam on P3 is looking as though it is going to tear any minute but we were able to get a piece of gear (nut) just below it. We faced the same challenge up top as neither of us felt as though we were ready to lead the 5.9 finish despite it being a single move that protects well. So we did the 5.4 traverse to the left and belayed near the tree and the did the 5.6 slab finish to the top. So we had two pitches in stead of one to get off but we were having fun so who cared. The traverse was challenging for the second but it protected just fine. The slab to the top was a bit covered in lichen so it was a bit challenging but pretty straight forward. It was very difficult to place gear but we did get a couple pieces in. Of course there is always more than one way to the top and the route was not obvious. It goes without saying we all have different levels of comfort, but if you have stayed off Anthill Direct because you aren't ready to lead a 5.9....there is an easier finish and what I believe to be an easier and fun start. By all means, give the direct start a try. The bolt makes a difference.
Dec 2, 2002
I'll reiterate what others have said about the runout third pitch: it is HEADY. Although it can be protected to some degree with small TCUs / Aliens and small wires, I'm not convinced that they would hold a long fall, which is certainly possible on this pitch. Be prepared to keep a cool head and just move through it. As for the final 5.9 pitch, it is very straightforward and easily-protected. It's really a one-move wonder.
Nov 17, 2002
I think the 5.6 traverse pitch, when linked into the cracks above which the guide calls "5.5", has to be one of the wildest pitches of its grade anywhere. Not that I would upgrade this pitch or anything, but it seems like the kind of climbing that is more suitable to someone with the climbing and route-finding skills of a solid 5.8/5.9 leader. I linked from the belay atop what Charles calls pitch 2 all the way to a belay near the arete, just below and right the hanging chimney/flake. This sets you up pretty well for doing a long final pitch to the top. The 1st two pitches of Redguard are also a pretty good way to start this route.
Oct 11, 2002
The tri-cam was still there on 9/21/02, all color bleached from its webbing and useless for protecting the runout traverse. Got a good blue alien in nearby, though. The 3rd pitch is way more *heady* than the short, well protected 9 finish or the sustained 8 of Touch 'N Go, even though the moves are no tougher than 6.
Sep 22, 2002
If combining 3 and 4 belay at the pin that darin speaks of, or a little above. It's almost 200 ft. from there to the base of the last pitch. exposure on the last layback is sweet. there's a cool kneelock rest too
Feb 4, 2002
Tri-cam is starting to tatter a bit, beware......
Jan 25, 2002
The sun blasted tricam is still there as of November 2001. Pitch 3 went exactly as per the Rossiter text. Follow the black streak. I climbed through the recommended belay to the two pitons just above the 5.7 pitch because I didn't like the anchor much. Great route-with Touch and Go it's almost as good as Ruper for a mellow, cold day outing. Pretty easy route finding, great positions, not a bad pitch on it.
Nov 7, 2001
A good route indeed. It's been a while since I climbed it, but I recall on P3 climbing straight up from the belay about 10 feet, clipping a pin, and then heading basically straight left on great holds, past a sun-bleached fixed tricam (if it's not there anymore, other good gear would go in this spot), straight up to a marginal blue alien placement, and then straight left again to the belay on a sloping ramp. Ken is right - it's a bit intimidating, but the holds are great and the position is outstanding. Just follow the path of least resistance. The position on the finger crack/stem exit to P5 is even better.
Oct 11, 2001
A good route for cool, autumn days. Pitch 2 is mostly 5.4ish climbing with one hard move at the bulge. I would recommend combining pitches 3 and 4 into one long pitch, but these pitches zig zag so use long runners as needed to reduce rope drag. The first time I did this route 18 years ago, I found the runout nature of the 3rd pitch to be pretty intimidating. I would caution any fledgling leader to be sure to stay on route on this pitch. The Rossiter topo is OK for this, but I think the initial traverse on the 3rd pitch goes more left than is shown in the topo -- basically follow the strata of the rock diagnolly left until the first piton is seen.
Oct 11, 2001
- Archer McLanahan
Even with the new bolt, I think this merits a more serious rating than the PG in Levin's new book. If you belay from the large ledge about 50 feet below, I suspect you would hit the intermediate ledge if you blew the crux. If you belay directly below the crux dihedral, you would have a better chance of avoiding the ledge, but it would still be a long, awkward fall. The crux is 8-10 feet above the bolt.
Jun 15, 2016
Tony Bubb and I replaced the two bolts (one 1/4" rawl split shaft, one 3/8" star dryvin) on this pitch with 3/8" stainless steel (SS) Rawl five piece bolts. And yes, the 1/4 rawl was especially manky! The American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org) donated the materials used in this project. They appreciate your support.
Sep 29, 2005
- Back in Black
The .11a I believe they are referring to is at the first bolt were you begin your commitment to this climb. Some people have quite a bit of trouble here if they are not strong climbers or lack a bouldering style. The intimidation factor (spacing between bolts - scary, black rock) seem to keep some people from boldly going for it at this bolt. Near the end of this pitch, even though the bolt is at your feet on the crux, 20+ footers are common due to slack/rope stretch but should be perfectly safe. If you do this route enough times, I think every one takes it at least once. I almost hit the ramp once due to a very inattentive belayer, so make sure your partner knows where the crux is and isn't "slacking".
Oct 27, 2012
Very nice, Eldo-cryptic climbing. Potentially a classic when linked into "Blacktop" for a 180' full-value pitch. Not dangerous, but it does seem like this would be a bad spot to be taking whippers (lots of little ledges or slabs to hit). -Scott
Jan 19, 2010
I top-roped this about two months ago and remember it covered with aging lichen and dirty rock. However, it is well protected. Thin, difficult moves throughout. A sport climb not for the faint of heart.
Oct 14, 2007
I have only heard people calling this 11c/d. My own rating would be 11+, and I generally consider myself a sandbagger. I think 11a is quite a stretch for this one, compared to its neighbors to the right. The upper crux is thin, continuous and definitely harder than 11a. I understand the desire not to inflate routes (and egos), but it is possible to do the opposite and inflate your ego by calling this route a paltry 11a. My sermon back to you for the day.
Dec 11, 2001
- Backstroke
Point one: the bolts were placed on rappel. Point two: for being placed on rappel, the first bolt is extremely hard to clip unless you are extremely tall. Not too much of a deeper meaning in those comments.
Oct 29, 2002
To: anonymous coward - What is your point about the bolts being placed on rappel? This route has been led plenty of times from the ground up, though not by everyone who tries. Would you prefer that the bolts be 1/4" placed on the lead? There must be some assumptions underlying your remark.The ACE FHRC doesn't permit bolting on the lead and while this route was done before the FHRC came about I don't think it's now in the spirit of 'preserving the Eldo experience' to demand that all approved routes be sport climb clip-ups.
Oct 29, 2002
However, a route that was bolted ON RAPPEL such that everyone has to struggle to clip the first bolt (except perhaps the 6-foot 7-inch tall first ascentionist) is a poorly-bolted route.
Oct 29, 2002
While I'm not surprised that there have been complaints about getting to the 1st bolt I think the sequence is about 5.9-.10a (not .11b anyway) and your belayer should always be alert on every route - otherwise why have them belay? I think the description misses a hold at the crux that eliminates wild dynos. The presence of bolts on a route in Eldo does not signify that it is a sport climb.
Oct 28, 2002
There are some adequate HB or RP placements in the left-angling crack down and left from the bolt. These will probably keep you off the ramp if your belayer is on the ball. Poorly bolted route.
Oct 28, 2002
- Backtalk
I thought this was a great pitch and a damn good lead, albeit spicy. I would not dissuade anyone from leading this if it's in your range - nearly all the gear is bomber, although you do have to climb fairly high above some of it. My gear, in order of placement, was a 0.5 and 0.4 Camalot right next to each other, a #5 RP about 5' below the bolt (pretty bomber actually), above the first bolt was a 0.75 Camalot and green Alien placed right next to each other, and then I backed up the pin with a blue Trango ballnut. The size up from that would probably work well too. Also, I'm pretty short and was able to clip the first bolt just fine from the left!
May 4, 2014
Yes, the pin sticks out half way. I climbed 'Dessert' to get the anchor, due to the fact that the first time I tried Backtalk I had to down climb after I clipped the first bolt, which was, of course, below me. Quite the spicy lead.
Jul 22, 2007
Was the pin replaced? I remember it as rusty and sticking out further. It's now gold colored, if I was seeing straight, and sticking out about an inch less than I remember. Not that that makes it good...
Feb 26, 2007
I found this pitch to be much easier, though more sustained, than Blackwalk. It's quite reachy though, and my 5foot3 partner struggled mightily with some of the reaches that I found pretty casual (at 6feet tall). If you're looking for some kind of warm-up in the area, this would probably be the best choice.
May 12, 2003
There are two good but small brass nuts down and left from the first bolt to protect the first clip. I clipped both from below, long, and then from the left, short, and from the left was much easier. The moves to that point are about 5.8. Above the first bolt I put in two cams under the overlap, a 0.5/purple Camalot and a green Alien. Then I got the #2/gold Camalot in a pocket to the right of the buckets. I felt that was the best placement, and next time I would go with just that. It's runout from the second bolt to the pin, but maybe 5.9 after the first few moves. The pin holds partial body weight. I know because I was getting blown up there and figured it would be safer to gingerly weight the pin rather than risk falling onto it from above. There is a pretty good small brass just left of the pin. Maybe use a screamer. It's angled to the right. A good trick is to run the runner from the nut through the biner on the pin to use the pin as a directional. This will only work if the runner on the pin is below the biner on the nut, else the pin would be weighted first, could pull, and that's the end of the directional.
Jan 25, 2003
The smallest size Trango ballnut (blue I think) can be placed just right of the pin. It's about as good a placement as you can get for this piece. The next size up might work too (or perhaps even both).
Oct 28, 2002
I've led this climb three times and Blackwalk maybe five times. I find Blackwalk considerably harder and much scarier. I just have lots of trouble at the crux of Blackwalk. This route is much more straight forward for me. It is exciting though as you can't see the marginal fixed pin until you are eye to eye with it. It doesn't look good, but it is the only piece. Fun, exciting climbing. Both of these are good tests for your head.
May 6, 2002
The moves off of the ramp going right are really cool. Use the finger slot jams to position yourself for a clip. It is a more challenging climb than Blackwalk, requiring more precise foot and hand work. I thought the danger level as far as a serious fall was less on this climb than Blackwalk, although the potential for loss of skin and bruising is significant.
May 6, 2002
Although I agree with this pitch's "s" rating, I would not discourage anyone from leading it. The first bolt is in a strange place, but you CAN clip it when you are directly left of it (not above it). The slot above this bolt does NOT accept a #1 camalot, a .75 or something comparable is needed. Great climbing on this pitch, I thought, with some route-finding challenges and exciting climbing. I wonder if the Lost Arrow (driven only half-way in and upward) would hold a fall. The moves past it are not the crux but are certainly thought-provoking.
Feb 7, 2002
- Black Top
I think that this is a sensational pitch. When combined with Back in Black, it is the best and most sustained single pitch of face climbing in the Canyon, IMHO. It is all bolted, but it is not a sport climb!
Mar 27, 2015
All of the following statements should be qualitfied with the note that I TR'd the pitch after rapping it to get down from another route. I didn't lead it. However, I was quite mindful of the placements as I came back up on TR. This is a very good route and in no way crowds anything else up there. It's a good additon to the wall and at least as good as Blackwalk, Backtalk, etc... The route is indeed bolted in charicter with the rest of the wall. There were 2 cruxes in my opinion, and bolts right at or just below each. I don't think the climb was sustained though- A thin crux down low with a bolt at my chest and a power move higher with one at my knees. I saw where you could place a 1" cam, but you don't need it to be safe (might help the head, but the route seems OK without it). There is a "twin" hold nearby that will do just fine if you fill this one with a cam, but I don't think a cam would be required anyway.A few further notes... just below the last bolt, I went right, which ended up in no-mans-land then traversed left to reach the last bolt. Going up and left earier looked to be easier, on the way down. Also, the flake just below and left of the anchor is "crunchy" and flexing. Be mindful of this, as you will be some distance above the prior bolt.
Jun 5, 2004
It's very difficult to see the 3rd bolt from the stance where you place the 1" cam (look left). It's also pretty tough to place the cam in the best handhold available in the middle of the crux. It seams like it would be a good idea to climb this as an extension to Back in Black as Malcolm mentions to eliminate the possible factor 2 fall gaining the first bolt. This would without a doubt make an 11+ pitch.
May 21, 2004
I think Dr. Dan is thinking of a different pitch since Backtalk is in a different place (Blackwalk maybe?). There are several sections on this pitch that probably warrant an 'S' rating. Getting to the first bolt requires a low-5.10ish mantle-like move and would be a bad swinging fall onto the anchor if you blow it. That bolt should probably be a couple feet lower. Beyond that, although the route is spicey, it's generally safe enough. There is nothing on the pitch as hard as the crux of Back in Black, but the climbing is sustained and insecure enough that one could unexpectedly log some big time air at a few places.
May 18, 2004
I think it is one of the best sport routs in Eldo. While I was climbing it I was less than pleased with the bolt placement, but it keeps your concentration up right to the end when you reach the ramp. Its neighbor, BackTalk is even more run out, but not in the cruxiest sections. Both climbs are on good quality rock and the holds are all there.
Sep 9, 2002
- Blackwalk
Like Erickson said in his 1980 guidebook, the prospect of "Darkness at Noon": I was sandbagged into leading this in the spring of 1981 (I was out of shape), because my partner flew off the crux twice. He just couldn't figure out the moves. I managed to find a crappy, small RP placement to the right of the crux then went for it. Once I passed the crux, I couldn't move for 15-20 minutes, I was scared shitless. This is the climb where I learned how swallow my heart and suck up my asshole back up at the same time. What was cool, there was a crowd of climbers gathered to watch and all were encouraging me on. Yes, Dave, if not my scariest pitch, one of them.
Aug 9, 2015
Doing a route that long with 2 quickdraws is just dumb, and for that, it deserves a classic status in my book. I don't know if I was more nervous climbing it or belaying my partner up it. I wouldn't want to see someone fall on this. I really enjoyed it and haven't been that happy or motivated to not fall in awhile. I will have to come back someday and do the rest of the pitches.
Jun 1, 2015
Is it just me or does that runout feel X? A coffin will be waiting for you if you blow the last runout moves. You're hitting the starting ledge. The crux felt like solid 5.10c for me. It is really devious as to which holds to use and which way to go. Greasy as well. The runout moves aren't to bad, in the 5.8/9 range. Don't blow it though, this route is serious. There is a #3 placement below the pin at the top. It's nice to put that in after the runout. That and the 0.5 C4 at the bottom is all I placed.
Oct 19, 2011
Blackwalk is, bar none, the scariest pitch I have ever led. I totally agree with Bill Wright's and Joe Collins' comments, both here and on Backtalk: Blackwalk has a harder crux, and harbors the potential for a 70+ footer if you fall before reaching the anchors. Backtalk is more sustained, yes, and it is run-out, but it is what I would call "normal" scary. Blackwalk is "weird" scary. It's got a weird, greasy, awkward crux, followed by 50 feet of greasy slopers without pro. It took all I had mentally to keep it together on this pitch.
Apr 29, 2009
I've led this route many times and it is always hard and exciting for me. I think the crux is solid 10c and tricky. The climbing above is very heady and I think it is 5.9 with huge fall potential. This is a serious pitch. About five feet after finishing the crux, you can get a black Alien off to the left. This is a bit of a blind placement, but it felt very solid. This is difficult to find and I don't usually find it.
Jan 27, 2006
This is solid 10c (d?) (albeit short) with 8+S. . . solid. NOT a climb to be tried when it's HOT out - very greasy shit when hot. Sounds like the accident victim was climbing during the heat. I'm not too sure if I'd even give this route a single star, but what the hell. . . voila!
Sep 15, 2005
Matt (or anyone else), what was the accident on Blackwalk you're referring to? What happened?
Jul 31, 2005
Gear; There is a placement for a 0 or 00 TCU that is bomber at the stance above the crux (second bolt). You can also get a purple camalot in a crack 15 feet above this, at which point it is easy to move right to easier ground or left and then up to the double pins below the anchor.Variation; It is also possible to traverse straight left from the second bolt on some slopers to bypass the original crux. This has the advantage of keeping the bolt high when you are doing the hard moves. The moves are different but I don't think they are any easier.
Nov 17, 2004
Well worth doing all 3 pitches (2 if you run long, or 4 if you break them up small). The climbing past the first belay is like a harder verson of the Bulge and is a great warm up for something like Shades Of Grey. Best to do P1 to the second bolted belay (the one at 110') and then go all of the way to the top of the slabs in ~58 more meters.
Sep 14, 2003
After the crux on pitch one there are some gear placements to be had that reduce the 5.8 runout to the ramp/ledge where the Backtalk anchors are located. I believe this must have been the site of the fixed pin because the slots look like pin scars to me. Anyways, after doing the crux moves and getting back on your feet and off your arms, there is a small horizontal crack that takes a #1 and #2 ball nut and a #00 or #0 TCU. An RP could also be placed where the TCU goes. This is up and slightly left of the last bolt, but right in front of your face if you step left and rock onto your left foot at the crux. There are also some TCU placements to be had up and left from there, but I think it's easier to do one move right and continue straight up to the ramp. I also like to put in some gear before the first bolt and supplement the pins on the way to the upper anchor with a few more gear placements. In short, I usually bring a rack and find some interesting gear placements along the way. With or without the extra gear, this is an exciting and fantastic route. Rossiter gave it "Top Ten" status in his old Boulder Climbs South Book, although there were eleven climbs with "Top Ten" status in that book. I guess Eldo is just that good.
Sep 12, 2003
I found the crux to be considerably harder than its neighbor Backtalk... very polished and somewhat of a harsh warm-up. The two pins are still there on the upper part of the pitch... you can't see them until you are on top of them. I couldn't see them, so I hauled up a #3 camaolt on the trail line which goes in beautifully in a slot just below the pins.
May 12, 2003
I agree that the second pitch is worth doing. Be sure to put long runners on every piece of fixed pro that you clip, even doing that I had more rope drag that I would have liked. Halfway up the pitch there is a pin and a bolt below a roof. After pulling the roof you get into the real runout. A small nut can provide a little peace of mind where the runout is at its steepest. Twenty feet above that, far enough left that you might not see it, there was a slot that took some small cams which I greatly appreciated. After that the angle eases off and it's 4th class to the East Slabs descent.
Nov 18, 2002
I hopped on this route with out a lot of beta. I found two bolts to clip and about a 30 foot run out on 5.8-9 after the 10b-c crux. It was really very solid climbing and not sketchy. On the ramp there is the tendency to go for the lower chain ancors on Backtalk, but since the climbing is easy, go left, find 2 fixed pins in the flake or place a .75 cam and move up and left to the real anchors. Fun climb, but it tests you mental cool.
May 6, 2002
The second pitch is worth doing as well. From the bolt belay (not backtalk's) at the top of the first pitch, move up and left on huecos underneath the rotten roof break. There is a bolt after 10 or 15 ft. Pull up past the bolt and then move right underclinging past two old softiron upward driven pins (5.9). There's a nice blue alien slot a little ways past the pins. Pull around right and cruise to the top past another bolt and small roof. This pitch is runout as well, but the runouts are really easy climbing.
Mar 23, 2002
I would recommend against "going for it" on this pitch. Better to be sure you stay in control. Gravity is the same whether 5.8 or 5.12.
Feb 4, 2002
I also did not see any fixed pins on the route. I placed the cam, clipped the two bolts, and then finished at the backtalk anchors at 80ft. From there i climbed up to where the topo showed a fixed pin and two bolts and found nothing! running it out to the original anchors (assuming they are still there) could result in a 100ft ground fall with this fixed gear missing, so be careful.
Jan 30, 2002
A comment about the pro. AS of 8/10/01, I am pretty sure there is no pin. From the description, however, I'm not sure where the pin and TCU placements are supposed to be, before or after the bolts. This is how I found the pro- 5.6 to a green Camalot (.75) placement maybe 15 feet off the ground. Continue another 15 feet to a bolt(5.8). 10 feet to another bolt(.9+). A short, two move crux (5.10b) then about 25-30 feet of 5.8 with no pro. I used the anchors at the top of Backtalk, but I know you can climb up and left to anchors on Blackwalk, this may be where the TCU and pin are, I'm not sure. Well, I hope my comments help.
Aug 11, 2001
- Book of Numbers
Tried this route the other day. I felt like P1 was the definite crux of the route, but I suck at 5.12 slab climbing, so that's probably why. P2 is really fun! The roof at the end felt weird, even for Eldo. I cut my finger open pretty good on it. Worthy route! Don't need much gear. Did find a #4 useful, but you could go without.
Apr 9, 2016
Tried the first pitch today, a few thoughts: -The whole pitch felt very well protected. I used a #3 and #4 Camalot at the first roof, and then a few more small pieces to back up the pins on the rest of the pitch. -There's plenty of hard climbing packed into this pitch, but the standout crux is near the top 2 bolts, starting with a big reach and step right (easier if you're taller), and then a mega-highstep (easier if you're shorter). -This is a very high quality pitch, with though-provoking moves and good rock. I can't wait to try the next pitch, hopefully tomorrow morning! -Scott edit: Tried the second pitch today: more great climbing! Though not very long, it's definitely an enduro challenge. Lots of underclings, sidepulls, and tricky footwork force you to maintain body tension for a long time with no real rests. Fortunately, it seems very well protected with two bolts and a slew of fixed pins. I also used a md/lg stopper (BD #9) and a #3 Camalot. The big roof at the end isn't too hard, although a bit exciting. There's a two bolt anchor maybe 30' up and right above the roof, although it might be easier to downclimb/back-aid the pitch if you don't have someone that wants to follow it.
Feb 25, 2010
Years ago I was able to get the top with a hang, but never unlocked the secret to the first pitch. I would have reversed the grades on the two pitches and called the first pitch the crux.
Nov 8, 2004
- Bulge Indirect
- Bulge, The
Climbed The Bulge for the first time this morning, and it is wonderful. If this is not the cleanest moderate route in Eldo, I'd like to know what is. Protection is very scarce, and I was glad to be following not leading. That said, this route is NOT as dangerous for the second as it is for the leader--that assertion in the route description above is quite an overstatement. For the leader, there are a number of, ahem, opportunities for long and dangerous falls from 20-40 feet above gear. For the second, there are really just two heads-up sections. The traverse on P2 could result in a significant swing fall, though the climbing at the point of maximum exposure is much easier than 5.7. The traverse on P3 is more serious and there is swing fall potential right at the crux. Though it does not eliminate the problem, a #3.5 Camalot (placed about 10 feet left of the bolt) greatly reduces swing possibility for the second, as others have pointed out. The direct 5.9 finish for P4 is short and sweet. Felt more like 5.8 to me. Holds are small but positive.
Jun 12, 2014
At the bolt on pitch 3, I also mistakenly went straight up! It felt 5.10 but doable, with poor hands. Probably the cold temps of the day made it feel harder than it was. Just above the bolt I got in a 0.3 C4.
Feb 26, 2014
Amazing line! Just did this yesterday on a beautiful November morning and had the most fun I can remember on a 5.7. Fun route finding, some exciting runouts on easier ground, and grippy, juggy rock make this a great little outing. A few important things to note that may be helpful to those looking to do the route.... The pin is still there on P1 and looking good. Great small cam placement right below it and good slung horn above it make clipping it not a necessity though. (If someone has clipped it already, as was the case yesterday.) A new #4/old #3.5 is definitely going to be enjoyed by the second on P3. Fits perfectly in a big slot after the crux and helps protect the leader on the last awkward mantle as well. And finally, the direct "5.9" finish is really on 5.7, maybe 5.7+, go for it!
Nov 17, 2013
My "most memorable" ascent of this route was in the Fall of 1965 with Layton Kor. We timed ourselves, and it took only 40 minutes car-to-car. That was still driving and pulling pitons (I recall only ONE piton being placed on the 2nd lead). That was an "after work special" by Layton, and we had to go get beer and a bite to eat.
Jun 6, 2013
Great route. Even more funky traversing than many Eldo classics. Your second will like you if you bring a 4 for above the crux. Mine took a 10' swing onto it.
Jun 3, 2013
Pitches 1 & 2 go together very nicely with a 60m rope, and one can see the belayer on the ground from the top of pitch 2. The direct finish is excellent, but it felt more like 5.8 than 5.9 to me. My 4 star rating is for the direct finish, the original finish doesn't look quite as good.
Mar 7, 2013
So I totally missed the part where you're supposed to traverse left after clipping the bolt on p3. I just went straight up from the bolt. The downside is there's nowhere to place the #4 when you do it that way, but the upside is that it puts you at an undercling where you can get a good orange Metolius TCU with the very sling-able chickenhead just up and to your left. It wasn't a whole lot harder than anything else on the route that way - maybe comparable to the moves on the direct finish, i.e., 5.8 or 5.9? Otherwise, consistently excellent rock on all pitches of this route. Wasn't a big fan of the traverses and runouts (agree with the 'not a date route' comments) but very high quality climbing.
Nov 24, 2012
Worth doing, but not one of my Eldorado favorites. Shorter climbers tend to have some problems at the "bulge" on p.3. Not a "date" climb either! Definitely desereves the "R" cautionary rating! Of the "standard classics" in Eldorado, I've only climbed this one 5 times and that's probably enough for this lifetime.
Jun 14, 2010
I've always considered The Bulge a 5.7 for 5.9 climbers - on both ends of the rope. And communication is always such a joy! On the second pitch in particular, everybody in the canyon can hear you. Everybody, that is, except your partner, who'll only be hearing muffled, unintelligible bellowing. People on the Wind Tower in particular can hear you just fine. I've relayed messages to folks on the Bulge a few times, but I don't think that should be depended upon. It's best just to plan for the situation before you leave the ground, whether that means rope tugs, coded whistles, rope Braille, walkie talkies or whatever works for you.
Apr 19, 2010
Super fun summer evening climb as you are in the shade. Should probably feel comfortable soloing around 5.5 to lead this one. Also don't get sucked into missing the left trending traverse on pitch two by a second piton up and right. I climbed up to it and it is manky at best and then realized I was off and had to downclimb back to get on route. Easy to protect your second at the crux on pitch 3 with a number 4 cam. After the tricky business just look to your right for the obvious placement. You probably wouldn't be very happy following your leader without this placement. Competent seconds only.
Jun 29, 2009
My advice: don't fall. Fun route. The straight-up P4 variation is the way to go, not remotely 5.9 but still fun. We climbed with doubles and that helped with rope drag and traverses.
Aug 31, 2008
Whew this thing is runout... but really fun!!! Reminds me of some really fun face climbs at Red Rocks. Make sure you're solid at the grade before getting on this thing. I was able to get 6 pieces (not including anchors) for the entire climb. The 5.9 is the softest I've climbed at Eldo. It's actually more like 5.7. Enjoy!!
May 19, 2008
What a great route for its rating. A must do!
Mar 8, 2008
Fun climb with lots of history, as an early 5.7 leader in the 70s, the "bulge" move (about 2 or 3 moves) scared the bejeezus out of me.
Feb 28, 2008
Look for a nest of wasps on the traverse of the second pitch. You can go low to avoid them as they are in one of the first hand hold/cracks of the pitch. They stung my partner on lead, and when I came up, they buzzed out to check me out.
Sep 1, 2006
Just out of curiousity: has anyone tried to go straight up at the start of pitch 2 (instead of the right-left zigzag)?
Oct 23, 2005
Hi Greg, Yes, I believe that is correct. Kor was was quite the phenom. It is interesting that you should mention rock shoes and Kor. About fifteen years ago I was doing one of the variations to Anthill Direct (Chromium Shore or Semi-Wild) with a pal of mine.I was wearing those old Sportiva Monolo's. The Manolo's had a symetrical last and were supposed to be able to be worn on either foot. The marketing strategy was that once you blew out the inside toe, you could switch feet and have a fresh inside toe edge. The trouble was that once you had worn them for several weeks they took the shape of the foot they had been worn on, and it was like trying any other pair of shoes backwards. About two or three pitches up my feet hurt so bad that I had to bail. I was so ticked off that for the first time in my climbing career, I tossed the rap line without calling down "rope!" Guess who I hit in the head with the rope? Layton Kor. That was a very embarrasing way to meet the legend.
Feb 8, 2005
Tom: Ya know, I heard something about that :) Didn't Kor also climb it facing out into the canyon so he could extend the use of his shoes by wearing out the heel rubber? In addition, that made sure that the right (I mean left of course) side of his body would get the tan, and also slowed him down from his notoriously fast pace just enough for the tan to take place at all? I think it's in one of the lost appendices to Climb Colorado...
Feb 7, 2005
To : Greg B Hill In response to your reference to the Wind Tower shadow that parallels the Bulge. That is no coincedence. When Kor originally established the route he was trying to tan the left side of his body because he just got back from a road trip with Ament. He has been riding shotgun the entire road trip and sunburned the right side of himself. His FA of The Bulge was an attempt to even out his tan.
Jan 27, 2005
I'd just like to point out, that at 7 a.m. on a mid-summer's day, the outline of the shadow of the Wind Ridge on the Redgarden wall nearly exactly outlines the line the Bulge takes. How weird is that?
Jan 25, 2005
Yet another comment-- I was also lured above the obvious ramp on p2, and my feet stayed about 6 feet above it all the way to the belay. I didn't feel the need to downclimb, and found jugs all the way to the belay. This route is the juggiest i have yet climbed at Eldo-- huge holds everywhere.
Nov 3, 2004
After doing the direct finish we wondered if we were on route or not. Looks like we were, but I have to say it was somewhat disapointing. Short, easy jugs. I guess you could jam fingers in it if you really wanted to. Quite fun, I guess, but don't expect much. Of course it took us 10-15 mins to find the way down to the E slabs trail.
Oct 24, 2004
I almost did what AC from 6.12 describes by trying to go straight up after the right traverse at the beginning of P2. If you just pause and look, you can clearly see the chain anchors once you get up on the face above the traverse. I couldn't find any pro from the traverse to the anchor, but got a smile later looking at photos of slings draped over the micro-horns on the 50ft. 5.4 runout ramp.
Sep 8, 2004
Did this route yesterday. The #3 Camalot on the traverse on the 3rd pitch is definitely there as a poster stated earlier. However, I think a #3.5 would be better suited as we got the #3 in but had to fiddle to find the best spot. Bring both to really sew it up.
Aug 2, 2004
A 3-star for me too. An eldo trad classic though I can see from the pic that I've done a few variations and never the exact direct finish. I think P1 goes pretty well any way you do it but have seen many have a problem with P2 the 1st time through here by thinking the traverse is higher up or more angled. Down climbing after the error can be tricky, feel runout and become 8+ rather quickly. Be sure to go immediately left after the lip and the chains will become apparent.
Jun 12, 2004
Fun with interesting route finding. Do the direct finish. I placed a 3.5 Camalot in a hueco at the start of the third pitch. Definitely a date climb.
Mar 8, 2004
Thanks to George for hauling my sorry ass up such a great climb. I think the crux is definitely a short man's move - I was really scrunched. I found I could either do the move without unclipping or chicken out after unclipping. I chose the latter and downclimbed to the belay (after unclipping) and then elimbing up and a little left to George's pro. Probably 5.9 or so. Now that I have time to think about it, the easiest way (short of having George find the camalot placement) would have been for me to lower him down from the anchor to unclip the piece after the traverse before I started up. John
Sep 17, 2003
Last time up this route, a couple weeks ago, I noticed a great placement to protect the second on P3. After the crux traverse moves, you move a ways left, and turn the small roof on jugs. Then you are on an easy slab--instead of heading immediately up and left to the belay, go up and right (which is easy), and sling a solid, if small horn, clip it with a long sling, and then go to the belay. Makes the moves perfectly safe for the second, the horn will not pull off with the rope movement, and you don't have to haul up a #4 Camalot. [This only works if you skip or backclean the gear placement at the small roof after the bolt (the climbing is not too hard there, but I certainly placed this piece my first time on the route... I skipped it last time). It will also work if you are using double ropes, which actually can be helpful on the entire route.]
Sep 16, 2003
Great route, but be sure you're solid on 5.7! We took a pretty standard rack but only actually used the stoppers and two smallest Aliens (blue and green). Probably it is wise to take a few medium and larger cams, especially the #3 or #4 Camalot for pitch 3. I missed the #3 Camalot placement on p. 3 after the bolt, although I found a place for a #4 Camalot (which we didn't have). Needless to say, my second was not too happy to see the monster swing he would take at the crux, so he downclimbed a ways and then headed straight up about 10' left of the bolt. (considerably harder than the regular route but following the line of the rope). Pitch 1 is actually not all that obvious. There is a left facing dihedral/corner about 50' off the deck, this is the feature to look for (also shown in Rossiter's topo). There are many ways to get to it, but I followed a left-sloping ramp to the left edge of a horizontal crack. You can get a small Alien in this crack. Then I moved up and left and then back to the right to the base of the corner, where you will find the pin. Instead of climbing the corner, crank up on some jugs right of it. 30 years ago, my partner had taken a 70' leader fall on this pitch, so be careful! This is an amazing line and looks harder than 5.7 from afar. The crux (by the bolt) is at least well protected. The first pitch also has some tricky moves on it.
Sep 16, 2003
There is little I can add to all of the previous comments...yet I will say this climb is FABULOUS! It seems there are multiple lines on P1. I personally step off the ground by the tiny bush and then find myself working my way left, for good hands and feet, before heading straight up to the pin. Pulling the small bulge on P1 was always a challenge until I learned to just work my feet up and pull/mantle through it. (Honestly, I had to top rope it a few times before I got it). P2 was quite fun too...I got a little confused after coming around the corner. I wasn't sure if the ramp was directly left (on the dark water marked stone) or up a couple feet and then left. I ended up going straight up a couple feet and then left only to find I ended up working my way back down to the ramp. Sure seemed easier that way. It appears P3 should start left...don't get sucked this way...look up towards One O'clock and you will see a pin. I was glad my partner (Will) led P3 and gained greater hero status for doing so. Stepping left around the bulge is delicate but as others have said, the hands are there...you just gotta work your feet left and stay balanced. Seeing the #3 cam made me smile and would have been a blessing had I peeled off. Don't skip the 5.9 crack finish. It is the easiet 5.9 I have ever climbed and you can always place a piece of gear above you as you work through it. I watched Will comfortably rest and place the gear before each move.
Apr 20, 2003
On P3 after clipping the bolt that protects the crux (and the entire 40-50' pitch), step way left to a ledge while clutching a bomber undercling, then commit up and shift weight left moving right hand to a protruding stone, while reaching way high for a bomber heuco with the left hand. Balancey move. Move up 15' or so unprotected and work right to a ramp and another 20' of exposed runnout to the chains. Have fun and be careful on this one...
Oct 20, 2002
Just wanted to add that it is possible to lead the first three pitches in one 200' pitch. This is obviously easier with double ropes and long runners and not placing much pro and knowing where the route goes, but it works quite well. The "5.9" direct finish is about 5.7/8 with great pro.
Jul 12, 2002
....As for The Bulge (guess I'd better say something vaguely relevent) you can help protect your second on pitch three. There is a nice placement for a large cam; #3 or #4 Friend (and maybe an RP), up above the crux on the third pitch. This is almost level with the bolt belay, but off a ways to the right (almost directly above the pitch three crux) and maybe down a bit. Watch out for the pitch 3 protection bolt, the nut works loose sometimes. The direct finish; let's settle for 5.8. It is about comparable with the righthand finish to Bastille Crack and definitely harder than anything else on The Bulge....
Jan 3, 2002
I would say anything larger than a #2 Camalot is unnecessary on a "standard" Wldo rack, notwithstanding an obvious wide crack. The best thing to do, however, is bring what you feel comfortable with, and if you look up at a pitch and find you don't need some crap just unload it on the second. They love that!
Dec 7, 2001
...I usually take a full set of RP's and stoppers, cams from 00 TCU to #4 Friend, #6-#8 BD Hexes, 10 or so trick draws, a webolette, and the standard accoutrements (nut tool, an extra locker or two, 3 or 4 extra biners). I usually will leave everthing else behind, although occasionally I will take doubles in blue and green alien. Too much? Too little? I really am interested in more experienced thoughts concerning a "standard Eldo onsight rack" if there is such a thing. [Also, a pink tricam]
Dec 5, 2001
The oversized rack in the photos below appears to be the source of some confusion, notwithstanding the explanations above. Rather than repeat those explanations, I'll pose this question to the group: Assume you're heading up to onsight an Eldo route. You know that the route is "S", but details about the actual line of the route, the belays, and the mid-pitch gear that *is* available is sketchy at best. Assume further that you have not pumped anyone for detailed beta, since part of the fun is figuring things out as you go. Although solid at the grade, you would prefer not to unnecessarily run it out, and would also prefer to back up the fixed pins and belays if possible. What do you leave behind in the car/pack?
Dec 5, 2001
It's hard to argue with Kreighton's "climbing with Lang" logic. The truth is, we were in training for our upcoming attempt to free a Baffin Island wall in winter. Not shown in the picture are our two haulbags, extra rack, and Kreighton's dogs. I note that we cut the rack in half on 11/24, and still had about 99% too much gear. You could probably get by on a few trick draws, an extra sling or two, a full set of RPs and stoppers, and #0.5 and #4 Friends.
Nov 26, 2001
Ben, I've been waiting for someone to comment...You know, I was climbing with Lang, what can I say. Someone had to carry it... Sadly, I only placed 3 pieces on the pitch. We did this again on 11/24, so I think I could adequately pare down the rack now. Oh, the real answer? I'm a weiner!
Nov 26, 2001
I would concur with the three-star assessment as well, particularly in comparison to other Eldo climbs 5.7 and below. If you take the direct P4 exit (which IMO is no more difficult climbing-wise than P1 of the Bastille Crack), every pitch on this route is solid, fun, and fairly exposed. The same cannot be said for other climbs of the grade in Eldo. Of course, I agree with Frank's assessment that it is "not a date climb", so the comparisons may not be apples-to-apples.
Nov 19, 2001
It's interesting to me that this only got two stars. For Eldo, and the routes I've done, I'd give it three stars. Rossiter calls it 'Top Ten' and it is in my top ten, certainly when pitted against other routes at the grade. The climbing is spicy, sustained for the grade (5.6-5.7), and there is virtually no loose rock. One comment about the #3 Camalot placement - it is on the leader's right while traversing left, so it would be very easy to miss. Missing this piece not only means your second is unprotected, it also means you likely won't get another good piece for at least 50'.
Nov 19, 2001
A few comments of my own: Combining P1 and P2 was pretty reasonable. Although we had double ropes, I don't think the rope drag would be bad even with a single if you either put a very long sling on the P1 anchor or skip it entirely and clip the decent fixed pin just up and right on the traverse. There is a good eye-level #3 Camalot placement in a hole on P3, about 7-10 feet left of the bolt, which will add to your second's comfort level. I agree with Frank's comments above about the "5.9" finish. Fun moves, and sewn up in comparison with the rest of the route.
Nov 19, 2001
Three comments: Fun route A fall on pitch 3 would really suck for the second - this is not a date climb. Do the 5.9 finish. It's the easiest 5.9 in Eldo (possibly could be the easiest 5.8 in Eldo also) but quite worthwhile.
Nov 7, 2001
It seemed to me that for pitch 3, you go right, then back left past a bolt, THEN up and left to the belay. Lots of traversing around up there. A great variation to the last pitch is to climb straight up above the belay over a 5.9 bulge with an incipient crack (small stoppers or tcus needed).
Jan 1, 2001
On the second pitch it is possible to place a #4 camalot in a big hole on the face, above the end of the crack, prior to traversing left to the next belay. This provides somewhat better protection than relying on the crack below for your last piece.
Jan 1, 2001
- C'est La Fin
The new Levin guidebook calls this "Alternate Finish" and rates the variation portion of it 5.8, PG-13.
Mar 28, 2010
- C'est La Morte
Climbed this today, very good. Beautiful finger crack, non-existent, just 3-4 pockets until you get on the face.
May 22, 2016
Great route. Use some double length runners on the first half, and rope drag should be just fine.
Mar 8, 2013
I did this route many years ago before some of the loose flakes were "cleaned off." My comment in my notebook was "the lower pro is only as good as the flakes." I'd suggest breaking it into 2 short leads to reduce rope drag. A single 60 meter rope should suffice to get off, and a 70 meter is "no sweat."
Mar 12, 2011
Dude, I got a great #1 Ballnut in behind one of those solid(er) looking rocks in the 5.6 section. Totally bomber. Also, totally nasty rope drag at the top. Be smarter than me. Place long runners on your pieces before moving right around the roof.
Sep 26, 2009
This is a good pitch. It is more engaging than either The Flakes or Whistle Stop.
Jul 21, 2009
Great Climb! Questionable gear at the start, but it is only 5 or 6 so enjoy it!
Apr 22, 2007
In Guy Humphrey's excellent photo, the climber has a piece attached to a long purple runner behind a "thumpy" flake (third piece from bottom of the photo). This flake is AWOL. The reach up into the crack is now a tad harder. Still felt like 5.9-ish, but this felt like the crux move of the pitch.
Mar 16, 2007
A very good variation is to climb the variation left of The Flakes start (the right-angling ramp) to the left edge of the Flakes ledge and then step left to the base of the C'est la Morte crack (see Guy Humphrey's photo, but note that the 2nd and 3rd visible pieces of gear in that photo are on thumpy rock--I didn't use either of those). The rope runs straighter than either the regular C'est la Morte, The Flakes or the regular Flakes start to C'est la Morte. Gear is good. A #3 Camalot at the ledge with a double length sling protects the step left to the base of the C'est la Morte crack, and a #2 Camalot up and left will keep you there (at the base of the crack).
Dec 29, 2005
Sweet route, at least as good as C'est la Vie (p1). Don't bother with gear until the undercling. I didn't find RPs necessary... the crack sews up with medium stoppers.
Oct 27, 2005
Devious route, but a lot of fun!
Jun 12, 2005
Fun climb. I didn't see the 'RP crack' that the guidebook mentioned. A bit cool in the shade, smokin' in the sunlight. This would be a fun winter route.
Oct 9, 2004
Remember to protect the second at the end of the climb, before the anchors. It'd be a pretty good swing. By that, of course, I mean a pretty BAD swing.
Jun 24, 2004
Cool, exposed moves half way up, as you exit the lower face moving right and connecting with the upper crack. Same finish as Flakes. From the chains, 60m rope took us right to the start with rope to spare.
Jul 2, 2003
Three stars might be a little generous, but it's still a pretty good route. I remember it having an appetite for small, springy things; in other words, TCUs are very helpful. In summer, too, it sports an active hive of small wasps that don't seem particularly aggressive, though they are numerous. Naturally, they're housed very near the crux. The comment about a 50m rope just reaching the 'ledge' is completely accurate. The ends of the rope come through your ATC (or whatever) just as your feet touch. Mind your balance!
Oct 17, 2002
The anchors at the top of C'est La Morte and Whistle Stop (they end with the same upper part of the crack and left traverse) are set such that one 165ft rope will get you down... JUST BARELY... to the boulders leaning on the wall. Make sure the ends are even!
Aug 29, 2001
The "easy" climbing goes something like this: after traversing up and left (along a sort of rock stratum, toward Cest la Vie), traverse back right under a small overhang, head up a thin, right leaning crux crack, and then traverse back left to the fixed anchor (near the right margin of the large Cest la Vie dihedral). Bring 2 ropes to rappel.
Jan 1, 2001
- C'est La Vie
As of 8/28/2017, the nut is still at the crux... and it works. =)
Aug 28, 2017
The pitch 2 crux currently has a fixed nut.
Apr 26, 2017
As of 3/15, there is a #2 DMM Brass offset at the crux of pitch 2.
Mar 15, 2016
Just so everyone knows, there is no fixed gear off any kind (i.e. bolts, pins, random gear) on the second pitch excluding the first two pitons. Either way, fantastic route and quite spicy during the crux. GO FOR IT!
Feb 25, 2016
The most natural feeling way to do this thing at a moderate grade is to pass the first anchors and head up and right through the roof. But instead of the airy traverse to the set of anchors above P.S., 30' to your left, stay on the arete with occasional gear (5.8+, PG13), and head to the anchors at the top of P2's diherdral. It is a fun and very worthy var. that I had not done in over 10 years. A 70m rope is long enough to rap/lower from those to the belay ledge 20' up if you started from there.
Aug 23, 2015
Clip the two pitons at the start of the second pitch to make sure that your brass won´t zipper up!
Aug 11, 2015
P1 protects safely with minimal gear: two quickdraws (bolts), two small nuts (offset is best), and cams 0.5, 1, 2. P1 is mostly 5.8 climbing except for the first 15 feet and the 15 feet between the small corner to the undercling/flake start.
Apr 8, 2015
Fixed nut in dihedral is gone. Bring a yellow alloy offset for crux piece. The rest is up to you! Enjoy
Mar 28, 2015
Andrew - pound on that block/flake between the two P1 bolts next time: it vibrates with a resonant 'boom'. Lobbing onto that enticing looking #0.75 Camalot placement may prove catastrophic some day if the block detaches. Vague potentially helpful beta: keep a little lower as you head right.
Jan 19, 2015
We went for the first pitch today, after some folks telling us it was a classic 5.9. They were right, but it's definitely hard. It's hard pretty much right off the deck, with marginal gear until about 15 feet up, and even then it doesn't let up much. Personally, I for the life of me couldn't figure out what to do in the tiny corner below the second bolt. The pin everyone is talking about is gone, but I had a bomber #4 Metolius in that slot under the corner that I whipped on probably 10 times today. I tried stemming out right with bad feet. No go. I tried going straight up, but the hands kinda just disappear. Any beta here? Was I even at the crux of the pitch?
Nov 22, 2014
As of 8/7/2014, there is a nut ~1/3 up the dihedral that has become so stuck that it has literally molded into the crack and become part of the rock. The dihedral protected better than I thought, and you're never really that far above your pro to take a huge fall. Very exciting route! My buddy took a HUGE whipper on the P1 traverse over to the second set of anchors, exciting move that protects well with a 0.3 Camalot.
Aug 13, 2014
Don't see a listing for the 2nd pitch variation that goes up the arete after the A-haped roof? It's well worth doing.
May 12, 2014
Anchor the belay! My leader took an exciting fall today when he came off at P1 crux and the #3 blue Camalot he placed in the flake blew. I was VERY grateful I had anchored the belay. It's an sketchy belay stance on those rocks, but there's a good, #2 yellow Camalot placement right at your feet and a red #1 just behind you to keep you where you need to be in case of a fall. Not flying up probably saved me from being hit from above, and at least saved my leader from falling another 5-10 feet. By the way, we left a draw in the bolt below the P1 crux, because my leader hurt his ankle on the fall and we backed off. FYI.
May 6, 2014
Still a bomber fixed nut. P2 protects really well and is definitely the money pitch.
Jun 5, 2013
As of 6/10/2011, there is a fixed nut at the crux.
Jun 13, 2011
As of 5/9/2010, the pin in the crux dihedral of P2 is no longer there nor is there any other fixed gear on that pitch (except at the belay anchors at the top and bottom of the dihedral). Placing adequate gear in the dihedral through the crux is tricky and strenuous. Good luck.
May 10, 2010
Pulled the previously stuck nut today, but don't worry, the climb is still hard.
Feb 28, 2010
This is a sport climb now, not a death-fest. Fixed pro the whole crux, you can crag the second, crux pitch from the belay under the dihedral, and thus only need a 70 meter to get all the way to the ground. Good evening 5.11. You can climb the .9 pitch, work the second pitch, lower from that belay and top rope Pansee Sauvage (.11). Also, the route mentions that this climb can't be .11c at the crux, but if you are 5'2" or shorter, this is at most a .10+. Little person climb...for once.
Sep 16, 2008
I did the first two pitches of this thing last year. I thought they were both rated 5.9 when I climbed it; at the time, I thought the second pitch was pretty sand-bagged. LOL, .11b sounds more like it.
Mar 11, 2008
On the dihedral pitch, tread lightly on the flake that is on the left wall by the finger lock after the crux. It flexed severely when I tested it and I think it would come with a little persuasion.
Feb 13, 2008
This whole climb rocks!!! Do the final pitch it is protected and the sequence is great!!!
Aug 22, 2007
I found the new red BD C3 works well before the bad nut placement. Incredible pitch. Definitely thought provoking. Classic and amazing. Everyone should do it.
Mar 18, 2007
Climbed P1 on 12/9/06 with A. Wiedmann. I don't recommend this as a cold-season climb; P1 gets no sunlight and the rock is very cold. Thought the pro was somewhat marginal. First move can be protected with a small stopper but it's effective only if the climber stays well to the right. The bent pin at the P1 crux looks very bad. It can be backed up (I used a stopper), but the backup is not that good and definitely should be equalized. This is a satisfying pitch though. Crux moves are inobvious, delicate, and fun once you figure 'em out. Think it would be 5.10b for us lesser mortals. No bats--too cold I guess!
Dec 11, 2006
Climbed this yesterday late afternoon. Behind the big flake just before the first anchors was a pretty impressive colony of bats, sleeping and crawling all over each other. Its hard to say for sure how many were there, but I counted 30+ distinct bats, and I'm sure many more were hidden from view. Very cool, though the stench of guano was pretty strong. I know nothing about bats: any ideas on what type might be living in Eldo?
Aug 25, 2005
On P1, after clipping the twisted knife blade (which I didn't feel a need to back up), layback the flake and step up immediately using one of several small edges at the bottom of this flake, reaching for the two [chalked] up flared pockets in the crack above the piece. This is the most direct, and IMO easiest way to reach the next bolt. Trusting this stance while clipping is the mental crux...balancy... I've wandered a bit farther right before launching up while following this pitch in the past, but I believe the bolt would be out of reach if you get too far right past the flake before launching up on lead...
Aug 7, 2005
Chad, There is only one pin on the actual dihedral. The other two are located just above the bolted belay (probably the original belay) and don't impact the climbing at all. Hope that helps clear up any misunderstanding.
Jul 22, 2005
Personally, I am disappointed if the above comment means that recently some pins were [replaced] at the second pitch crux. The natural gear was adequate. A perfect example of where fixed pro should NOT have be replaced, in my opinion. Reduces the experience, and, in the long run, reduces the safety.
Jul 21, 2005
We just did the 1st and 2nd pitches last night. There are 3 pins on the 2nd pitch, one that protects the crux moves which I backed up with a blue alien below it. The crux pin seems to be adequate, as I fell on it from the top of the crux section. The fall wasn't bad, I basically slid back down the slab with the pin catching me just as my feet were coming to the ledge. The slide is so slow you have plenty of time to look down and see where your feet are going to land.
Jul 21, 2005
I placed the two-bolt anchor at the top of the second pitch, only after carefully and thoughtfully weighing the pros and cons of doing so. I submitted a written proposal to FHRC, who deliberated on the idea for almost one year, before I was given written approval to install the anchor. I originally proposed the installation of the bolts at a public meeting, at which several local climbers were in attendance and had the opportunity to voice their objections - few did. Consequently, with the assistance of Mark Rolofson and his drill, I installed the anchors. During the following month, a dozen or so local climbers approached me to express their appreciation for my efforts. Given the sensitivity of such actions - legal or not - I feel compelled to clarify my reason for installing the anchor. It was not as Steve suggested meant to be a convenience anchor. Although I consider Steve to be a reasonable person, I am surprised and a bit disappointed at his comment. The fact is that he was one of the few climbers, at the meeting, who vehemently opposed my proposal. He is also acutely aware of my reason for suggesting the anchor in the first place, because I stated it clearly in his presence. My [sole] intention for the installation of those bolts was to reconcile a safety issue - period. At the time, I had been guiding for Boulder Rock School, in Eldorado Canyon, three to four times per week in addition to spending almost all of my recreational time there. I frequently encountered competent parties, who had jammed their ropes into the top of the dihedral, while attempting to rappel. The problem was that the antecedent anchor was fixed in the horizontal section of that upper dihedral, which inevitably guided and sometimes lodged the rappel ropes into its flaring crack. I do not disagree with Steve's opinion that the former belay stance was a bit more comfortable, although I firmly believe that resolving the more important safety issue supersedes any minor reduction of comfort. Mark and I contemplated this issue and spent a considerable amount of time on the upper ledge, determining what we believed to be the most efficient placement of the bolts. I've heard few complaints since. I respect both Steve's and Roger's desire to preserve the tradition of Eldorado climbing. I too look forward to all efforts toward doing so. I have been an active climber, in the capacity of professional instructor, guide, sponsored athlete, and sports photographer, for almost thirty years. I learned to climb in a staunchly traditional environment, so I understand and appreciate tradition all too well. On the other hand, I also recognize that there is a difference between preserving tradition and becoming consumed by an ideology. Situations change and activities evolve. Such was clearly the case with this route. With all due respect to Roger, during seven years of climbing in Eldo, I never saw more than two separate parties, my own included, on the third pitch of the route in question. Moreover, the presence of my anchors in no way impinges upon anyone's desire to pursue this last pitch. The guidebooks display it, and all interested parties are free to do it. Most parties simply choose not to. Could we live without the existence of bolted belays on this route? Of course we could. The same argument could be made regarding the bolted anchors on The Naked Edge and several other _traditional_ Eldorado classics. The Edge could easily be ascended without any bolts, and it would still be considered a relatively safe route. We humans have an innate predisposition toward maintain a modicum of comfort in our lives, which is why most people don't free solo routes. We instead form a general consensus to determine what is acceptable to the majority. This consensus is oftentimes implicit by our actions. I can see no benefit from the presence of machismo in our sport. Although the bold and defiant acts of some to challenge nature's patience can leave many of us with a sense of awe, they are still the personal choice of those who pursue them. They should in no way mandate a standard by which we all must abide. Climbing is personal endeavor, and it should be preserved as such. In any event, this is a classic route, whether done in one, two, or all three pitches. I highly recommend it.KC
Jul 8, 2005
I have another suggestion for pro on the second pitch. You can place a bomber blue alien about 10 inches above the pin and it will hold a fall. I know because I tested it a couple of times before I finally pulled the crux.
Jul 8, 2005
Adequate gear, classic line. Calling the little white crystal for your right foot a dime edge seems generous.
Jun 18, 2005
The party that climbed the first pitch before us today also took a lead fall on the twisted pin! At least we know it will hold one for now... I linked the first pitch and the arete alternate finish into one pitch and it worked out nicely with minimal rope drag.
Mar 6, 2005
I fell on the twisted piton on the first pitch today-I wouldn't give that thing many more falls. I backed it up with a cam under the piton, I believe an HB quad cam(don't know what size, maybe similar to a BD #.75). We climbed the alternate second pitch, and, I must say, was excellent.
Mar 6, 2005
Found gear at base of C'est La Vie - Sat., Oct 2. See Lost and Found section (link on home page) for details.
Oct 3, 2004
If 5.9 is pushing your lead limit then the 1st pitch is going to feel pretty darn tough. This seemed a fair bit harder than say the first pitch of Chockstone (10a). The gear is kinda funky in places and the pin below the crux looks pretty bunk.
Sep 27, 2004
Regarding pro at the crux pitch crux section: a #2 HB offset and a #2 RP can be placed right next to each other about a meter above the last pin. Falling with the pin as the last piece lands you on some small ledges/large edges. These two #2's are high enough to keep from hitting the edges if you fall....at least that's what I tried to tell myself while climbing.
Aug 10, 2004
as of 8/9/2004, below the first set of anchor bolts along the flake, a bat nest with 50+ bats nesting waiting to attack , kinda scary moving past them and sticking your hands near the flake, beware!!!
Aug 9, 2004
Myke's beta photo above is innacurate with regard to belay position on P1. The first set of chains is under the mamouth flake below where he has the dot on the photo. Obvoiously, P1 & 2 can be combined, and often are...The moves in that upper corner, past those chains are interesting and involve a step up and high reach back and way right pulling up into an interesting little traverse to the second set of chains...
Aug 2, 2004
Bill makes a good point but actually I think there are 2 variations which work as 3rd pitches. One is shown on the photo and one is as he describes. I believe the one he describes is the Barber Direct. The convenience bolts at the top of the dihedral were approverd by the FHRC to facilitate lowering back down the dihedral and were proposed by someone who was "guiding" in Eldo at the time. It seems to me that any "convenience" is compromised by having the second have to fight thru the rope at the crux. A hanging belay at these bolts is painfully awkward.
May 21, 2004
...The photo on the C'est La Vie page shows a third pitch, but it is in the wrong place. It should be about 10-15 feet right of the line in the photo.
May 21, 2004
I thought the first pitch was the hardest 5.9 I've climbed in eldo or elsewhere. Sustained, tricky moves in the crux layback, and add to that infrequent and somewhat tricky gear.
May 20, 2004
More thanks to Dale, Bruce, and the ASCA for replacing the first anchor. I'd offer to replace the bent, half-out lost arrow, but I fear the retribution, and it held my 190 lbs. just fine. I also protected the start with a #4 offset and a cam in the slot, but only after sliding off down to the block. Excellent Eldo 5.9!
Dec 7, 2003
Yo! FYI A bomber number 3 or 4 HB offset nut can be placed before leaving the ground on the first pitch. I thought the first pitch was more difficult than the Tagger 10c pitch.
Nov 17, 2003
The anchors at the top of the first pitch are appreciated. Thanks.The first pitch is hard, I thought. The beginning is scary becuase it is way up off the ground. I protected the start with a .5 camalot in the chalked-up slot. However, doing this takes away your best hold...
Nov 17, 2003
Dale Haas and I fixed up the first anchor on pitch #1 (about 60' up). We replaced the old Leeper-style hanger on the left bolt with a Fixe 4mm Stainless Steel hanger. Also, we removed the smash links and assorted hardware from both bolts and installed two 3/8" quicklinks on each bolt. This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). Check them out at safeclimbing.org. They would appreciate your support. By the way, smash links, also known as lap links, are a poor choice for using as rappel anchors on bolts. When they wear and need replacing, it requires a hammer and a chisel to open the link (hint, hint to those of you who would like to help out removing smash links from bolts). Quicklinks work so much better and are easier to replace.
Oct 8, 2003
Couple comments about the 1st pitch. It *is* hard. Hardest 5.9 I've done in Eldo. I thought it was quite a bit harder than Emerald City for instance. Also, Jay is right: taking a big fall is quite the possibility. But it's a good fall. And the bolt before the pin works just fine, believe me. The moves above the first bolt are so deceiving. There looks like there's a monstrous foot hold just under the pin. But when you make the move, you're not really in a position to step on it. Also, try to clip the pin *before* making the moves. I didn't even think of the red alien that Jay mentions. So after making the move to clip the pin, realizing that I couldn't use the bomber foothold, I had comitted and couldn't reverse the moves... hence the nice big whipper. A really good pitch though...
Jul 16, 2003
Went up to climb this fine route yesterday and just wanted to issue a warning to watch out for poison ivy all along the upper talus leading to the base of the wall. Coincidentally, todays Dailey Camera Get Out! section has an article on this nasty plant in case you need a description.
Jun 24, 2003
gear beta if only doing first pitch: there isn't much pro between the first and second bolt. a foot or two below the scary piton there is a very inobvious red alien placement...it goes in right at the nice undercling sidepull thingy. if you miss this placement there is a chance for a pretty big fall, but if you get it this climb is reasonbly protected. the hardest pitch of 5.9 i've climbed, and awesome.
Apr 12, 2003
At the risk of this comment field getting carried away w/ gear beta, this may be useful. Many of the above comments list small RPs (#3), etc. that looked pretty good, but no one talks about falling on them. As my partner and I tried to solve the crux (2nd pitch), we fell onto a #5 BD copper/steel at least 15 times. It is bomber, and the fall is very short if you place it where we did. There is currently one fixed pin on the route, and you can get a decent (yet, sideways) blue Alien about a foot above it. The cam is not great, but it provides a little confidence while you slot the higher RP. The #5 goes about a foot (my distances are guesses from memory and may be a little off) above the Alien. You will have to climb up a move or two from the stance to place this piece. After the #5 is in, don't waste your time looking higher, there is a bomber medium stopper at the obvious finger lock at the end of the crux, just go for it. As for the beta, I have seen it done any number of very different ways, so just get on it, and figure out what works for you. The footholds on the slab are pretty slick. I have had much better luck on these moves on a cool day.
Mar 15, 2003
To protect the crux on the second pitch I was able to get a good #3 ball nut. I placed it in the "largest" slot below the small crimp in the corner. Placed with the flat side against the left slide it is only in about 3/4 but a small lip keeps it solidly in place. I gave it a few good tests.
Oct 6, 2002
My 2_ here-- GEAR: I found either a black or blue alien slotted in nicely above the pin (which I would call so-so), to protect the crux move; though, depending on when you fell, you could still land on the ledge below. BETA: For me, using any of the holds on the left wall (below/including the Desdichado holds) didn't work out, despite how nice and big they feel. I just couldn't rock my body back into the dihedral-- I am tall, so this may explain the difference here. My success on this crux came when I finally committed to just doing the delicate slab, stepping high with my right foot. Great challenge, great route.
Jul 25, 2002
In response to the beta at the crux of the second pitch. Personally, I got my left hand on that higher hold on the left wall and my right hand on a chalked up crimper where the book comes together. The key for me was bringing my right foot up on a very micro crystal. Then I backstepped my left foot on the fairly large, chalked up downward slanting ledge. This enabled me to be wedged in there enough to let go with one hand to get the good hold where the crack comes together. Wow! That was a lot of beta. Anyway I'm pretty short and my tall partner did it a different way. Good Luck
Jul 20, 2002
For those such as myself who find the 'regular' second pitch rather intimidating, the 5.9 variation is a great way to get to the anchors, or just do a nice second pitch. This is also a good way to reach the anchors to toprope the crux dihedral (be sure to set a directional). From the anchors at the top of the first pitch, below the dihedral, traverse up and right to gain a thin right-leaning crack. Execute a few tricky, balancy moves to gain the arete, then work up and left to gain the top of the 11c pitch about 20 feet below the anchors. Finish with that pitch. Rossiter shows this as 9+, but it's easier than the first pitch. Probably 8+/9-, but very nice climbing with interesting holds for Eldo. Recommended.
Jun 14, 2002
What's the beta on the crux? I once followed this route 10+ years ago, but I forgot how and ever since then I have failed miserabley to even TR the crux. Does one use the sidepull way off on the left wall at the crux, or is this a dead end?
May 28, 2002
One very minor detail: the white line on the above picture goes left around the A-shaped roof, when the route actually goes straight through the roof and a little right, before traversing left to the anchors.
Apr 18, 2002
If you don't want to do the 5.11 corner, a fun alternative is to climb the beautiful arete to the right for the second pitch. I think it is around 5.8 or so, but I'm not exactly sure. Never the less, there are a few sections of poor, thin protection; so bring small gear.
Feb 15, 2002
Both the first and second pitches seem to protect reasonably well. However, I'm not sure I'd want to fall on a few of those manky pins. I found that most can be backed up with small nuts, though.
Feb 15, 2002
I really disagree that the remaining pin below the crux is good. Not quite hall of shame material, but it's sticking pretty far out. There seem to be some good rp placements but you really have to fiddle for them and there's some deceptively bad ones--also, you have to place them from a very insecure stance, meaning that you could fall on that pin. But still, safe enough for the 5.11 leader w/good gear-placing skills, I suppose.
Feb 12, 2002
i did the top pitch of c'est la vie on 2/8/02 and the rumors of lacking protection are definately wrong. there is one good pin before the crux and a higher bomber #2 rp. the rp is absolutely sinker and would keep you off the ledge with an attentive belayer. protection aside, this is an amazing pitch and a definate must for any eldo climber.
Feb 12, 2002
My BD micro ripped when standing on a sling at the crux. Luckily the blue alien that I was grabing on higher up in the crack held and I was able to clip it. Perhaps an RP or small offset nut would work better for pro. After the first 15 feet or so on the crux pitch, it is 5.8ish to the rap anchors in a nice hand crack.
Dec 21, 2001
Did this route on Saturday, 11/17. There is one pin at the crux and you can get a good RP (#3 BD micro?) in to protect a ledge fall at the crux. If you have good gear placement skills this is a very safe lead.
Nov 19, 2001
The first pitch is fantastic, even though it is definately tough for 5.9 (hey, it'd be solid 5.10 in Dream Canyon:). Don't pull too hard on the flake at the top of P1, it's a bit loose. As of 9-17-01 it looked like there were two fixed pins for the crux of P2.
Sep 17, 2001
As of 4/14 there is one fixed pin on the second pitch. It is pretty low down and is very easy to clip, but is not in the greatest location for catching a fall from the crux. There is a ledge above the belay and below the pin that you will land on should you fall from up high and either haven placed RPs at the crux or your RP ripped. The crux of this route is tricky, slabby, very thin, and fun. I definately recomend trying it.
Jan 1, 2001
Hmmm, you would really have to know this route well to take the mentioned rack on it, the pitch isn't too long, but is one of the harder 9s in Eldo. The second pitch isn anything close to a death fest, there are one (or two?) pins at your waist, and two pretty good RP placements in the seam. It's really quite sane, even sewn up!
Jan 1, 2001
- Chromium Shore
I read about this route in the old Ament guide and thought it sounded like a good adventure off the beaten path. So I asked my old friend Mike Brooks about it, and he just laughed. I never did do the route, because I wasn't quite sure were it went. Ament's guidebook descriptions could be kind of ambiguous.
Oct 27, 2012
- Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony
- Continue-us
I'm not sure I understand the comment above. It seems to suggest crowding or lack of novelty. However, the line described here is at least 10 meters at any given time from any other line for nearly it's entire length, and it is a full pitch long.
Sep 29, 2005
No longer a climb between the lines, but a climb along the lines. Another true Eldo classic?
Sep 28, 2005
- Crack Variation
This is a fun, moderate exploration of Redgarden South Buttress. The rock is good and unpolished. It appears to be seldom climbed. Some great jamming in both dihedral sections. There is a good rappel anchor once you reach the Lower Ramp. It is well-hidden and hard to see. Crest the edge of the ramp, and look slightly down and right. This well below the Touch 'n' Go anchor.
Jun 9, 2014
- Desdichado
I'm looking for a partner to climb on Desdichado. If you're interested, send me an email at tlanzano@gmail.com.
Mar 29, 2012
HANK! Wow, been a long time. I don't know if you knew Russell Hopper from OKC, but I just found out he died of cancer. It's sad to lose another one of the old crew. Anyway, glad to see you are still with the sport. I'm just kinda getting back into it after a 15 year hiatus. Not sure why, but it's sucking me back in. I'll be teaching Sharma a thing or two here shortly, kidding. Guys and gals are really tearing it up these days. Amazing.
Sep 11, 2011
Verve is pretty sweet though if you like that type of thrutching. Good to see you on here, Larry, way to fire these routes BITD!
Aug 28, 2011
Back in the day, if you were going to give Desdichado a go, you only brought draws up with you, doing C'est La Vie the fun way--runout! lol! A tip for the start of Desdichado--clip the second pin (may be gone now) in the dihedral and layback the pocket/edge hold on Desdichado with the right hand to clip the bolt, and then pull back into the dihedral and downclimb back to the ledge for a shake out. When you are ready for the "go", go back to the pocket edge, but this time layback it with the left, cross the right over to the sloper, and toe hook (rand pull) under you left hand, leaving the right foot smeared on the dihedral face (layback). Once toe hooked, release the left hand and go for the low corner thing hold. As soon as you get it, the feet break away, and you can stab the cut-out with the left foot. A couple shrugs and you are at the second bolt. Great Route! More fun than CG's 'The Verve', IMHO.
Aug 28, 2011
This is a very cool route worth the shenanigans to check out .... C. Griffith put this one up ahead of its time ....
Mar 10, 2011
I replaced the draws on Desdichado today. The old dog bones were classic: radically multi-colored, once neon random geometric patterns. I considered calling the Smithsonian, but decided to keep these relics closer to Boulder. Enjoy!
Oct 27, 2008
This climb is amazing. The movement is very continuous and dynamic- no single move is harder than maybe 12+/13-, but no move is too much easier either. There are restful positions, but there is no rest. All of the [remaining] holds felt solid to me- Regardless of the broken hold, Desdichado (still goes!) and is still an incredible, historically significant, Eldo testpiece classic!
Oct 26, 2008
I climbed on this line a couple times in 2004, and although I didn't send it, I felt the 13c grade was still applicable. I did not use the crux of C'est La Vie to gain access to the steep face, I used Tony's "long arms and reasonably strong" beta. Also, note that there are no anchors...to finish the climb in the true old school fashion you establish on the slab and take the whip.
Feb 21, 2007
I'm curious if the broken hold has made this climb far harder than its original 5.13c rating. It would be great to hear from someone who has been on the climb recently or knows of the key flake.
Dec 27, 2003
You can get on this route without doing CLV crux if you have long arms and are reasonably strong. Getting past the first clip is the hard part and there is no way I could link it. The falls onto the first bolt were clean though.
May 14, 2003
I have *not* done Desdichado (nor could I), but I have done C'est La Vie a few times. Before riddling out the tricky moves on CLV, I was using a side pull on the left wall of the dihedral to reach up (pretty reachy) and grab a hold on the Desdichado traverse, and then try to work into the CLV finger lock that way (it didn't work. I eventually figured out I had to stay on the slab and in the corner...) Anyway, my point: I think its possible to get onto this route without doing the (I agree) desperate slab crux on CLV. I could certainly have clipped the first bolt of Desdichado from the holds I reached. Another thought: no matter how good a climber you are, I can't imagine the CLV crux feeling anything but extremely edgy!
May 28, 2002
I would think if you can fire this route the crux of C'est La Vie isn't desperate! I once was up there when George Squibb was working on this route (maybe 10 years ago). He swarmed up the route past several bolts but could never quite finish (that day). He gave us detailed beta on the crux of C'est La Vie and we still couldn't get anywhere on it.
Feb 19, 2002
- Dessert
There is an alternative to the Bulge's 1st pitch described above. You start L of the Bulge by 15 ft or so, definitely s terrain, find a pin, angle up and L along a L facing dihedral and gain the ledgish-system of the Bulge's 1st belay. 7s or 8s.
Oct 21, 2003
- East Overhang
Stiff little climb. Worth doing though. Take only a few pieces protects great at the lip. Short but sweet!
Jun 11, 2007
There's actually a few spots you can get pretty good gear in. A #1 BD cam fits perfectly halfway up, then a few feet above that, you can get a #2 that protects the moves over the lip. It's just a little sketchy until you get that 1st piece in. It's a pretty fun, although really short, route.
Oct 20, 2006
- East Side
- Edge of Night, The
This route (more of a boulder problem actually) is awesome! The crack under the roof takes great 0.3 and 0.4 Camalots.
May 19, 2012
- Exodus
Climbed this variation yesterday evening. It was short and sweet. Fun balancey moves with barndoor potential at almost every move thru the crux.
Jul 27, 2006
Nice departure from the standard Genesis finish. Proper sling usage on the last few bolts of Genesis eases the rope drag for the crux traverse.
Jul 13, 2006
- Flakes, The
This is a great route! The climbing up to the bolt after the roof is relatively easily, but there isn't all that much gear. Enjoy!
Jun 1, 2015
Super fun route. As the description says, you get two very distinct styles of climbing on the route. Above the Flakes, the face looks incredibly scary and runout, but as you climb up, bomber gear appears exactly when you need it. You aren't following a prominent feature, so if you get confused about where to go, remember to follow the path without any lichen on the face. This route is one of my favorite single pitches in Eldo, it is not to be missed.
Mar 17, 2014
A good solid 5.8 pitch IMHO. Did it today on a 37 degree day...ouch the weather lady said 64 degrees!?!? If rope drag (or cold hands) is an issue, you can always break it into two short pitches. Belay at ledge above the first piton.
Feb 15, 2014
Definitely 7+ at most! Hasn't anyone ever climbed Rewritten?!?
Oct 28, 2011
This is one of my favorite warm up/cool down routes in Eldo. We did this route yesterday and thankfully, someone put giant, thumb-sized tick marks on every jug, crimp, foothold and smedging opportunity along the top section. Thanks! If it weren't for the 17 tick marks at the crux bolt, I wouldn't have known where to put my feet. Life saver. Just to be nasty to the next party, I rubbed as many tick marks off with my sleeves as I could. After all, if you really want to know where every hold is before you climb a route, the BRC is right down the road. Sorry if I ruined someone's epic proj.
Apr 1, 2011
After the initial flakes, I stepped left to follow the "Morte" crack (which was hard to commit to), and then finished on Whistle Stop as Guy suggests. This is probably my favorite way of climbing these routes - best rock, moves and gear, and quite sustained. 5.8 for flakes proper, 5.9 if including the "Morte" crack.
Apr 9, 2009
I wouldn't really recommend this as in intro 5.9 lead. I think the potential rope drag and somewhat tricky placements above the ledge midway (before the pin) aren't ideal. However, the climbing is relatively easy the whole way for a 9...as long as you have your pro right. I can see slipping off easily as it is balancey and not all downward facing holds up top.
Feb 24, 2008
Great route with some excellent moves, however, lots of places for rope drag and rope to get caught. Looking back I would have back cleaned the initial corner as I was climbing the route. I ended up with the rope being fully caught and had to go through some surgery to get the rope free. Again, this is a great route despite the fact that I did not have the best time with it.
Apr 20, 2007
A fun route. Made for an interesting onsight lead but the traverse undercling turned out to be a bit more friendly then it looked. Actually I found the initial crack just getting up to the traverse to be the most strenuous part of the climb. Like commented in other places, look out for rope drag on the first section as my rope got caught in a crack making a few climbing moves quite tenuous. Upper half is just pure fun. 60m rope just gets u back to terra firma.
Apr 6, 2007
Started up this route yesterday (9/5), and needed to retreat from the pin due to rain. There was an old-ish orange (or formerly orange) sling attached to it, from which we rapped. Just wanted to note that the sling is probably significantly weakened now...we didn't realize that rope and sling were both wetter than we thought, so pulling was quite strenuous. (It would have been smarter of us to use a leaver biner.) I won't have time to get back on it in the near future to replace the sling, so thought I'd at least note it here...
Sep 6, 2005
A fun climb but really not very demanding. I was excited about the undercling move at the start but was almost disapointed by the bomber flake above after only a single small undercling.The face above is fun and it did take a minute before commiting to the face crux at the top past the bolt.
Mar 6, 2005
Great route, my second 9 lead. the first pitch is well protected with the traverse being a bit slippery but there are great holds right after the crux and a good place to rest. We did the route in two pitches stopping at the optional belay. This is where things got interesting. The face climbing is easier but there is little gear to place. In 30-40 feet I got one stopper and one red alien placed and that was it. I was really happy to clip the pin by the supposed crux to eliminate my 20 feet of runout. The crux at the end is pretty easy.
Nov 27, 2004
Fun climbing through the flakes and cracks. Funky crux move at the bolt. Be careful to protect your second when topping out.
Oct 9, 2004
Haven't climbed this since last July and was surprised today to find a bolt hanger at the upper crux that wasn't there last summer. That fact tames the upper half of this route quite a bit now....
May 3, 2004
This is a great after work route. It got my attention right off the ground. My left leg would not stop shaking. I think it is a bit below a 9 but a stiff 8 so I give it an 8+. I felt the protection was always good and there was always a solid hand or foot hold. The challenge was just getting the confidence to lay back the lower section and trust that if I kept moving the next good hand or foot would appear. It always did. There were just brief moments of fear from the unknown. To sum it up, I think there is a lot of excitement in this short route.
Apr 17, 2004
I would also recommend traversing until you meet up with C'est La Morte's thin crack. This will keep the climbing at the 5.8-5.9 level the whole way to the anchors. Make sure you bring lots of long slings for the traverse.I was about 10 feet into the thin crack on C'est la Morte, and noticed that I was running out of slings. I had to climb the last 30ft with only a RP and the final bolt for protection to keep rope drag at a minimum. There appears to be a semi-detached block at the start of C'est la Morte's thin crack. Be careful...
Dec 1, 2003
Just did the route this afternoon, and thought it was pretty unremarkable (to the point that I'm remarking on it). Good fun moves at the bottom and some fun moves at the top, but nothing too great in between. I would consider a 3 star route to be a 'destination climb' that you send all your buddies to. I'd say this climb is worth doing as a 'filler climb' (e.g. want to get one more line in on your way out af the park). I also thought the crux was a few ft. off the deck, and not up at bolt. Route is well protected, but P1 can be a bit awkward in places.
Nov 30, 2003
I highly recommend combing this pitch with Cest la mort rather than traversing over to Whistle Stop. The flakes, cest la mort and the crux of whistle stop make for an interesting long 3-star pitch but rope drag could be an issue if you don't carefully place your slings.
Sep 26, 2003
You can get more gear than two draws for the second half. I placed about 5 I think. A mid-size offset nut and #1 Friend can be placed in addition to the pitons, last bolt, and a #2.5 Friend at the start. Felt easier than C'est la Vie, West Buttress, etc.
Aug 1, 2003
Finally got on the sharp end of this route and here's my 2 cents. The first flake can be sent directly up and over from the middle or around to the left. IMHO these moves are no harder than (8). That move takes you to a pretty good ledge that will suck you right. Don't get fooled, head left around and up the next flake. Wonderful climbing there with a good stance to place a #2 cam, and layback the second big flake, which IMHO is more estetic, and I believe the intended route. Again, IMO this was (8) favoring taller folks. The 2nd pitch is really fun, a crack with thoughtful moves, kinda thin in a few spots (one (9) move, the rest (8)ish), with decent placements. Throw a #3 in the corner once at the ledge to protect your second. Although this route can be done in one long pitch I suppose, recommend belying on the ledge down below, as rope drag on the second pitch would not be fun, as its balancey up there in a few places.
Jul 2, 2003
Thought I posted this before, but 6 hours later it doesn't show up...I believe the route is consistent with the range of 5.9. Perhaps some of the flakes pulled out... perhaps the 30 year old memories are a little off David... or maybe the route was easy enough not to be within your range of good sensitivity. In any case, I have done a majority (quite literally) of the 5.6's, 5.7's, and 5.9's in Eldo in the last decade, including this route 4X that come to mind immediately, as recently as last month. At the present standard, I think calling this route "less than 5.7" (5.6?) is a dangerous sandbag. You better count on falling off of this if you are a 5.7 climber, and some of 'the flakes' can damage your rope if you are not using the right judgment for slings and placements.
Jun 24, 2003
5.9 ??? !!! I did this back in ' 74 hearing that this route in my "High Over Boulder" guide rated 5.6 A1 was done free at 5.7. We went and did it and I couldn't believe that anyone would have even used aid !! I thought it was over-rated at 5.7 !! Times change (and maybe some holds) ??
Jun 23, 2003
This was the first route I did when I moved to Boulder in 1983. At that time, the Ericson guide rated this (and Whistle Stop) as 5.7. I thought I was being conservative in my route choices, hoping to get used to the distinctly non-Yosemite type of climbing that Eldo offered, on something well below my limit. I'm not sure that these routes are 5.9, but I must say that I was pretty sure that I'd never be able to lead 5.10 in Eldo if they were really only 5.7.
Apr 11, 2002
A really nice route but be careful of rope drag once you turn the little roof to the right, I made a little mistake a therefore couldnt clip the pitons, not a big deal because of bolt 6 feet higher. May want to protect the second after the bolt if he/she is not quite at 5.9 as there would be a good swing. Gear is tricky on the upper half once you turn the roof but the climbing eases off. I would give it ** and not ***. C'st la Morte is a better route, albeit a bit harder. Ciao....
Nov 5, 2001
- Genesis
Why grade the climb if you're only going to do the first pitch?
Oct 7, 2009
Can you really ask for more in such a short pitch (only did pitch 1)? Hand crack, lieback, foot work, stemming, a roof/bulge, and thin face moves. Excellent. If you work your feet well and move quickly the roof isn't that bad...and then you can rest forever before starting the face.
Sep 13, 2007
I'm referring to doing the whole pitch, 5.12, in this post & not just up to the chains as most parties do. I have done this route many times in the past in the late 80s & early 90s. But I was up there the other day and this route appears to have lost a good, key, left foothold that used to be there on the initial undercling, stem, layback, mantle sequence.(5.12 Crux) You used to be able to get a pretty good, wide stem with it before doing an opposition/mantle layback move up to the pin scar/finger bucket. If anyone has done this recently, I'm curious how hard they think it is now. In response to Ken's comment, doing this as a single pitch is the standard way to do the 12 crux.
Apr 13, 2007
I'm calling this route 12d because I don't feel comfortable with debating the grade of such an established route, although I don't think that it is as hard as The Monument. Maybe I was just used to this type of climbing, having come from the East. Just a thought for those of you who are rating routes by individual pitches: Genesis is a multi-pitch route, with its crux pitch logging in at 12+, not 5.11. The standard is to do both pitches as one.
Jul 17, 2005
I red pointed the 1st pitch of this route the other day. Waht a great pitch. It is very well protected. I had a #1 Camalot below the pin, then the pin, and then I placed a blue Alien and purple TCU (0) in the arching crack to gain the face. Sewed up would be an understatement. There is a giant jug at the lip of the roof off which that you can clip the pins. Great route.
Nov 8, 2004
You can sew up the 5.10c trad section by placing a #1 camalot above the pin and a small cam in the arching crack. ( 0.2 camalot ) This will give you a TR protection through the 10c section.Good footwork makes this section fairly easy. It is probably not a good idea to try this one on a hot sunny day. The smears on the upper slab are a little tough to trust.
Aug 31, 2004
A good first 11 since it is well protected and after the roof the pump clock doesn't tick it's just technical.
Aug 18, 2004
[I don't know if anyone cares, but there is a knee bar with a no hands rest about half way up the lieback to the A-frame roof. It takes some courage, because you're above a shiesty pin, but a good way to rest for that move on to the face. Also, your friends will think you're cool hanging sideways on your knee....]
Jun 7, 2004
This is a great pitch (p.1) good rock, good pro fun moves - the whole shabang!!! I thought the move out of the A-frame was the most difficult part for me. It reminded me [a lot] of the crux of The Northcutt Start to the Bastille, and I had a hard time with that as well. I'm just not that great at that type of move [around] bulges and such. The face section above was too fun. It seems to me that the distance to the next bolt made it even more fun!! Classic line with adequate pro, hop on it if you haven't already!!
Jun 2, 2004
Although there are no 11a moves, the continuous nature of the climbing and the pumpy lower half make this tough to onsight for an 11a climber. The "10c" approach to the A-shaped ceiling is intimidating at first, but there is a good rest before, and good gear. There is a stem rest at the A-shaped roof, but it's not mentally relaxing. The "11a" move at the bottom of the face felt easy to me when I didn't care if I made it, but felt quite hard when I was trying to redpoint and wanted to guarantee the move. Moving left near the top is scary for me. Clipping that pin with the 2 chain links out to the left is hard - you have to rock onto your left foot on a shiny slanting hold, a ways above the previous bolt. I desperately and blindly placed a yellow Alien in the flake to protect the move left to clip. My partner Chuck thinks the upper half is 5.9, a bit of an exaggeration, but he's real good on his feet, and I'm not.
Mar 21, 2004
Lots of fun, but I think you've been climbing in Eldo too long Patrick! First pitch feels a little harder than Rincon's Center Route to me. Background info: I've had a fever for a few days so I am rather weak right now. I sat just before turning the roof and wanted to sit almost every move afterwards. The sequence to gain the lieback after the roof is tough. Slot your hand in a hard-to-reach undercling and smear like it's your job to gain a 'decent' crimp. If you're leading, place a yellow cam before the roof, clip the pin, the just trust it and GO! Pump factor = two letters up from grade .10c. Still fun and I want to get on it as soon as I'm well. Pins and bolts are solid on P1.
Mar 11, 2004
The December 2003 issue of Fast Company magazine contains an article by Jim Collins, entitled "Leadership Lessons of a Rock Climber". One "lesson" in the article gives an interesting description of how Jim mentally prepared himself for the first ascent of Genesis.
Nov 17, 2003
We finished my third climbing day in Colorado with very good tour of Eldorado including The Naked Edge and Super Slab routes. Our last route was very nice climb of the Genesis. This route starts in cracks near to the ground and goes over a roof and up to a thick flake. We felt that it was incorrect to move too far right to set up for second pitch and so did whole route in one pitch. After the flake were many small edges of square shape and more thin holds requiring good hand strength and careful thinking over sequences. This route gave very satisfying flash for me after difficult struggle not to fall off above the flake.
Aug 10, 2001
This is a spectacular line, with some of the best face climbing in the park. Don't let the funky 5.10c crack moves before the crux fluster you, just look around for small footholds on the face and get your feet on. I suggest pulling the crux moves around the corner before clipping the 2 pins in the horizontal seam, because there is a good rest when the moves are done where you can equalize the pins if you feel so inclined. The face climbing above is impecable and well protected, just tread lightly on the final 5.9 moves up the expanding flake and definitely don't place gear behind it!
Aug 1, 2001
- Genuine Risk
According to Levin's new book, this is: Genuine Risk 5.11a, R. FA: Erickson, Garber, 1980.
Mar 23, 2011
- Genuine Risk Takers
- High Noon
This is a great pitch! I found that the bolts protect the crux moves well. Supplemental gear in combination with positive edges make the rest of it quite reasonable. I felt pretty comfortable with two #1 cams and a single set of TCUs. You can access the start of The Vaporizor by following the band up and left from the bolted anchor at the base of High Noon. Doing Pilgrim, High Noon, and the Vaporizor makes for a very nice outing.
Feb 1, 2012
The broken anchor bolt was replaced and rap rings/links installed during the Celebrate Eldo weekend 2002. This route is as good as any on the Blackwalk wall, and definitely a sandbag at 11a.
Mar 5, 2003
A route to do for those who have "done everything in Eldo", and are bored. You won't be bored on this route. Good nut craft a must.
Aug 20, 2002
- Horizontal Beginnings
- Je T'Aime
Woo Hoo! Thanks! I will have to get back on that thing!
Oct 16, 2017
The 4 ring bolts were replaced with fat glue-ins.
Oct 13, 2017
Fun route. Be careful when falling at the first and second bolts. You move leftwards away from the bolts, and when you fall, you pendulum across an edge.
Apr 3, 2017
This is a perfect example of just how funky and awesome Eldo can be. This route is all over the place and so much fun to climb. There is chalk on it on, and it needs to be done more often. Check it out.
Mar 8, 2013
At least a couple of hard-to-clip bolts--and they're those nasty old ring bolts. It would be nice to replace all these in Eldo someday.
Nov 1, 2004
- La Vie d' Pansey
- Le Boomerang
This pitch is incredible! Powerful moves through the roof and getting to the second bolt then it becomes very much about technique and footwork. Wonderful Eldo rock and climbing. Only bolts on the traverse, no tat or fixed copperheads, and it seemed very well protected. The bolts are perfectly placed. Look for a no hands rest at the second bolt just prior to initiating the balancy crux moves.
Feb 4, 2013
I agree Mal, this is a very good line but not quite "Eldo classic" quality, However, . . . ahem, by your criterion Pansee Sauvage could not possibly be an Eldo classic either since "it's a frickin' bolt route!!!" But it too is very good! paz y amor
May 13, 2008
This is great climbing but I'm not sure you can call it an Eldo classic. It's a frickin' bolt route!!! Skip the bolts and protect it with RPs and THEN it would be an Eldo Classic. If you're looking for an Eldo Classic in the hood, lead Pansee Sauvage. Now THAT's an Eldo Classic. Mal
Feb 6, 2008
Sweet Pitch !! Got beat down the first try and went back the following day to give it another go. Whittled it down to 1 fall. For me the crux is the moves past the first bolt. Getting out of the a-frame roof is pumpy and by the time I clip that 1st bolt, my arms are flaming!! The rest is not that bad just really delicate face traverse. IMO C'est La Vie is much easier than this (Led that as a second pitch ). It's just a couple of hard moves to easy climbing, whereas this is rather sustained, from the .10 layback on Genesis all the way through the 2nd bolt on Boomerang. My $.02 BTW the fixed copperhead was gone when I was up there. It's not hard but kinda scary making the last moves with the previous bolt a ways behind ou!!
Oct 9, 2006
This one's a total classic. I've looked up in awe at this route for a few years now wondering if I would ever reach the level to climb it. Joe's comment above is right on. Power and ballet... I think the crux can be done in two different ways. You basically just have to figure out how to get your feet up on the narrow slippery sloped ramp from the good stance. I also agree that the fixed copperhead is just unnecessary tat. Four stars!
Jun 20, 2006
An Eldo classic with great pro and movement varying from power to sequential ballet. Probably much harder in hot temps and/or very humid days. I would be in favor of the CopperHead being removed as it is unnecessary tat.
Jun 15, 2006
The grade seemed more or less right, but I'm a whip on slabs, so it could have been generous, I can't be sure. Note on gear. The fixed head by the 3rd bolt is up in the crack, which is above the line of bolts. If you clip it with the same length of draws as you clip the bolts, it goes out of the straight line. If you lower off or if your second falls, this puts a great deal of stress on that head, although it is not directly loaded. The cable is bent downward across a relatively sharp edge and is kinked and a few of the wires in it are already snapped. Although I am relatively sure that the piece would still hold a lead fall (unlikely here, should you have made it this far), I think the tension previously described will kill it surely, over time. Please consider taking up a 2-foot-long sling for the fixed head.
May 31, 2004
Yesterday Josh Janes led me up this route, our first time on it. We both hung multiple times. At the 2nd or 3rd bolt (I forget) we both traversed a ways right and down a bit, then diagonalled left back to the edge of the slab. This was hard 10 or 11a--much easier than following the seam where the slab meets the steep wall above.
Jun 21, 2003
I feel a bit silly commented on the difficulty of a route so hard, but since I've climbed this (only seconding) and done C'est La Vie (leading), I'll give my two cents. C'est La Vie is a very hard five-foot boulder problem. Really. The climbing above and below this 5-foot section is 5.9 at worst. This route (Le Boomerang) climbs up through what I consider the crux of the first pitch of Genesis (11a) and directly into sustained slab climbing of which I think there are at least two sections as hard as the crux on C'est La Vie. I can't compare it to other routes Adam mentioned though. Clearly I need to learn better footwork, but this is a cool route.
Mar 17, 2003
While this is a brillant route and definately worth doing, 5.11d seems a bit generous. It seemed no where near as hard as Raccoon Soup (11d), miles easier than Fire and Ice (11d/12a), and even easier than the second pitch of Ces't la Vie (11c). All that aside, it was a great combination of some funky overhanging crack climbing and great techinal slab climbing. You got to love Eldo!
Mar 17, 2003
If you want to do the second pitch of C'est La Vie, this is a fantastic option instead of the normal first pitch. Thin and strenuous crux on marginal feet, very fun.
Oct 6, 2002
I had the pleasure of following Derek up this route and was blown away to see him soloing it a few days later. He also used to solo pitch one of Say La Vee a bunch and would traverse out to the arete to the right of the dihederal(about 5.8 or so) and follow it up past the dihederal anchor to easier ground.
Sep 11, 2002
Pro: Largely protected by fixed gear (pins and good bolts), but some trad gear is required on the lower section. Bring stoppers, Aliens blue through red, one #3 or #2 Camalot can be placed low on the route. At least 10 draws and slings. Details:No, I've not redpointed this route or even led it, but I got dragged up it this morning by Bill Briggs and thought it was a worthy addition to this site. The route starts with the first half of the first pitch of Genesis. Climb the corner system to the twin pins and then follow the seam up and strongly right to the base of the crux pitch of C'est La Vie. The climbing along the seam is protected by good bolts and one fixed "thing." We stepped left to the good rest on Genesis at the two pins and then went back right to complete the route. It is hard to reverse this move, but not that hard. It is worth it for the rest, I think. This climb is classic Eldo. It is not that steep - less than vertical - but the holds are very marginal and technical. Good footwork (I wish I had it) is the key. The moves are interesting and hard. The climbing is fairly well protected.
Sep 10, 2002
Does anyone know where Derek went after he got to the anchor? Downclimb C'est la Vie? Second pitch of C'est la Vie? Desdichado?
Sep 9, 2002
After you climb this dicey route, reflect on Derek Hersey who third classed this route in 1992! Yikes!
Sep 9, 2002
- Left Side of Roark, The
Good route, 10c PG13/R, somewhat obscure.
Jul 9, 2009
- Mental Cruelty
- Night
One of the best in Eldo!
Oct 31, 2016
vimeo.com/13169551
Jul 8, 2010
Crux-O-Rama. Even on TR this got my attention. The lower 1/2 is not to hard and you could get a few pieces in and probably be OK if climbing 5.11 anyway. The crux comes pulling into Matt's 1.5", left-leaning crack. I'd take 3 cams, 1.5"-2" and load them up with 2' slings to get a rope over the edge if I were to actually lead this. The crux comes up next.... Exiting the crux is balancy, hard, and pumpy- then you get the #1 Camalot (or a 2-2.5" cam) a few meters before the bolt. It was hard to get to the bolt, but then the difficulty dropped off a little to reach the top (5.10?). You need a 70m or two ropes to TR the route off of the anchors- the 70m hangs inches above the ground with long slings on the anchors.
Jun 5, 2004
- Noggin
- Original Anthill
Adding some clarification to the route description here: P1-2 From the saddle between Redgarden and Whale's Tail, take the right-trending ramp that is shared with Pseudo Sidetrack. You will come to a large ledge with 2 pine trees (Sidetrack Junction). P3 From Sidetrack Junction, take the next left-trending ramp. P4 Delicately step around the corner on rotten, exposed, but easy rock, and hand traverse slightly up and left to join Anthill Direct. From here, follow a right-trending thin crack (5.7) then up a scooped face ending at a small ledge below a dihedral/roof (the Direct 5.9- crux) with a ramp heading off left. P5 Follow the ramp system left, staying on the path of least resistance over blocks and up a final short chimney to the summit.
Jan 29, 2012
According to Levin, the FA is Dale Johnson and Dick Bird, 1956, just one week after the FA of Redgaurd. There's a great story regarding the name of this route, in Levin's "Eldorado Canyon, a Climber's Guide."
Jan 3, 2012
I just responded to an email and answered a question about the start of this route. My description above assumed that the "first pitch" of Pseudo Sidetrack was done using a 60 meter rope, up to the juniper ledge formerly called "Sidetrack Junction." BITD, this was 2 moderate pitches, and another short lead out to the end of the red ramp. Hope this clarifies things a bit.
Jun 1, 2011
This is a good moderate route on which to avoid the crowds on a weekend. Decent climbing and some great exposure, too.
Mar 19, 2011
- PA's Variation
Poor to no pro at the crux, actually. Still the lower hand crack is a blast, and the crux is reasonable if you're solid at the grade.
Jul 24, 2010
The old pop-top hanger and hex-head screw-in stud (!) has been replaced with a stainless Fixe bolt and hanger. This is still an R-rated pitch with poor pro at the crux.
Jun 12, 2007
- Pansee Sauvage
Long ways to the anchors, and the last little bit isn't trivial.
Aug 9, 2013
The crux felt like it was on the first bolt for me. Outstanding face climbing! Always a challenge to read. One of the best face pitches in Eldo for sure. Make sure you're having a good day before doing this thing. I don't know what was more scary, getting to the first bolt or getting to the anchors.
Aug 9, 2013
I led this thing in '92, after toproping it a few times that season. Although it still felt spicey, leading it onsight would be a much more serious undertaking. I tr'd it yesterday, after 21 yrs, and it felt harder moving past the first bolt. It has been a long time, but the horizontal crimp seems like it broke. I remember that move off of the left gaston being much easier.
Mar 16, 2013
I've avoided top roping this climb in the hope that one day I'd have the skills and balls to lead it. Yesterday I finally got the gumption. I agree with many of the previous comments that before the first bolt and after the last bolt are the two most dangerous spots. Some 5.10- climbing guards the first bolt and if you blow it, you won't be happy. Though somewhat runout, the climbing between the bolts was fairly safe, as is often the case with sporty but intelligently bolted lines. I blew my onsight attempt at the 2nd bolt and decided to give it another try. When I rapped down, I placed an extended draw on the first bolt. This eliminated the need to pull the balance-intensive sideways move from the flake unprotected. Stylistic issues aside, if you want to lead the route, but are worried about getting to the first bolt, from the Ces't la Vie anchor you can place an extended draw on the first bolt that tames at least one of the "hold your breath" moments. Just to emphasize, doing so definitely didn't change the R rating. This is still an 11b for the 11d climber.
Jan 30, 2011
This is the best single pitch climb I did when I was in Eldo. The face climbing is so fricking amazing. Getting the first bolt had me going, but the real mental crux for me was at the very end 10 or 15 ft before the anchor. Maybe it's not so scary there, but something had me going. Super fun do it if you are solid on the grade.
Jul 29, 2010
This route has some of the most beautiful face climbing I've ever done!!! 3-stars in my book.
Jan 9, 2008
Bolts are where you need them. However, unless your a solid 11 Eldo climber you may want to have health insurance before you try to onsight this climb.
Aug 22, 2007
Just for the record and to add to the debate about retro bolting etc, I on-sighted this route in late October 1985 belayed by Jerry Handren now in Vegas. I don't remember any bolts apart from two very poor studs, one above a little step about 45-50 feet up [after a hard more of course] and another about another 30 foot up I think. I understand reading the comments that it has been retro bolted a number of times since then, with bolts added to make it safer? Kind of a shame really, as climbing at its purist should be about respecting the first acentionists efforts and trying to match or better them. Can't say I have done this my entire climbing career but I do remember pushing the boat out a little on this one.
Jun 15, 2005
Found this in Pat Amen'ts "Eldorado--a rock climber's guide" (1980):"A direct route (5.11) was top-roped to the left of the first pitch of C'est La Vie in 1980 by Christian Griffith and climbs a steep wall to the huge dihedral."Rossiter says, "Bolted on the lead by C. Griffith with Pat Ament and Gray Ringsby, 1984."So Pat Ament is likely right that it had been toproped earlier.
Mar 14, 2004
Every time you see a bolt, expect a hard move just after it. On TR, I thought the hardest moves were after the third bolt. I have TR'ed some 11c's and 11d's climbs at Eldo that are easier than this climb, but if you can dial in the thin smearing moves at the third bolt 11b might be right on target.
Nov 17, 2003
A fantastic pitch that was well bolted. For me the crux was well above the third bolt, reaching across from the diagonal ledge.
May 16, 2003
I can't climb this route without hearing Rossiter's tongue-n-cheek commentary: "The mind of the savage is simple, yet resourceful and inventive" (from Boulder Climbs South). The ideal ascent of this line is free solo in a loincloth, with a turkey drumstick in your mouth to be devoured at the belay. Or you can toprope it.
May 6, 2003
After resisting the temptation to TR this climb for a while, I led it the other day. I agree with most of the comments above. The cruxes are very well protected and the climbing to the first bolt is unnerving but secure.What I found to be scary though, and I'm surprised no one mentioned it, was the solid 5.9 runout after the final crux to the anchors. The climbing on this section is slabby, polished, and insecure as opposed to the more positive edging on the lower part of the route.
May 6, 2003
Well, Bill I bet you're right about height helping on that move. Unfortunately, I'm not tall; I am weak; my mental game is lacking, and I find that this pitch really makes me trust my feet even on top rope. What a job to set the bolts on lead. Thanks for setting such a sweet face climb Christian.
Apr 29, 2003
I just toproped this climb for the third time yesterday. I find it a fun, challenging route. I fell off it a couple of times yesterday. I'd like to make this a weekend warrior type headpoint project. Nothing like the big boys like Steve Levin and company, but something a regular guy can aspire to. The hardest move for me is just past the second bolt - reaching that hole. This involves a desperate, painful sidepull on a small, sharp hold. I think the final slab move, while very thin, isn't too hard if you are six feet tall. I can span clear over to the sloping ramp on the right after some foot shenanigans.
Jan 27, 2003
A trivia tidbit: Rossiter's guidebook translates the name as "mind of the savage," but it would be more accurately translated as "savage thought." It would also be more accurately spelled "pensee," but then, maybe Christian was making a multilingual pun so that in english there was a hint of the word "pansy." None of that matters of course. It's a very fun and challenging piece of face climbing that I don't yet have the confidence to lead -- kudos to those who have, especially on-sight.
Apr 18, 2002
I think it's funny to note that this route was originally toproped by the rangers; Richard, Steve, Sara etc., who named it Staff Infection.
Feb 14, 2002
Granny Draws. I'm a neurotic worry-wort, so when I pluck up the courage/stupidity to try one of the great runout Eldo pitches (Like Pansee Sauvage), I don't want to worry about the rope possibly coming unclipped from carabiners during a fall. A Granny Draw is just like a regular quickdraw; but with two locking 'biners. Once clipped and locked, the rope absolutely cannot come unclipped from the draw. This is perfect for the type of runout precarious bolt-climbing found around Eldo. It would be kinda pointless for somewhere like Sport Park, and a real pain for somewhere real steep, like Rifle. If you try this, make sure that you have the gates undone before you start climbing. Granny Draws are also good for lowering off of, if there is to be some toproping from the anchors. I usually carry about three of these, but often only take them on a pitch which is runout or where someone wants to toprope.
Jan 1, 2002
Crusher: What are "granny draws"?? Are they mandatory for Grandmother's Challenge? ;-)
Nov 21, 2001
The first bolt was added to the route by Rob Candelaria (without permission) in the 80's when he replaced the original bolts. Needless to say this was highly controversial and scorned at the time. Christian's lead of this route, including placing the original 2 bolts, is one of the great leads done in the canyon. I, for one, would probably have never led this without that first bolt yet if Christian had decided to remove it I may value the route even more for it's inspirational effect. I find it more comfortable to clip that first bolt while using a sidepull or undercling on the left, and a sling oner a spiky flake on the section above the second bolt is the best protection I think.
Nov 21, 2001
This is a superb pitch, Eldo face climbing at its finest. have led it twice now, with no pansying about on C'est la Vie (though I have seen others stoop to such chicanery). I reckon the bolts to be really well placed, The hardest moves are immediately after them. The three bolts were replaced by Darren Bornn just last year with 1/2 inch modern bolts, so they'll be good for decades. Getting to the first bolt does not seem too bad to me_if you feel up for leading Eldo 5.11, you should feel relaxed on this stuff. I have to think hard about the moves after the second bolt, and really struggle on the slabby crux right after the third bolt. There is a good wire low down to protect the moves onto the initial face, then 5.9 climbing up the the bolt. Ironically, Christian actually placed only two bolts_the second and third, and the first was placed later, by Someone Else. Not sure too many folks would run it out to the second bolt! I know I wouldn't. I clip in with "granny draws" with double locking biners, for the bolts_one less worry. In addition, there is a small spike which takes a skinny shoulder-lengh sling a little after the second bolt. There is an RP between the first and second bolts, but the flake it is behind would likely fail.
Nov 14, 2001
Regarding injuries leading this route, I know of one. A friend of mine, who was climbing solid 5.12 at the time, tried to onsight this back in about 1994 or so, but he fell before getting to the first bolt. He broke his ankle pretty badly. A tip I have heard for making getting to the first clip somewhat safer involves going up C'est la Vie about 25 feet and putting in a bomber cam (about #2 Friend), clipping it, then coming down and leading up Pansee Sauvage. By doing this, you should avoid hitting the ground in a fall before reaching the first bolt, but you will certainly have an exciting ride.
Nov 14, 2001
I would rate the slab move stepping right at the last bolt to be about 15a or so, probably 15b in the sun.
Nov 12, 2001
This is a great pitch. I remember getting in some small gear/threads before the first bolt. I suspect that a fall from the high slab crux would not be pleasant.
Nov 12, 2001
- Pilgrim
A climb with bolts where you need them, a few small steel or brass nuts from OK stances, and a few places where you just have to go for it. None of it was dangerous, but plenty of it was exciting. If it had been more closely protected, it would be less of a route. This one was done 'just right' for that kind of experience. I thought the true crux was at the section between the first and second bolt (you can clip #2 before the move if you are mildly creative), but up top the moves are thin and if you didn't take your rests, that might feel just as hard.
May 15, 2012
Excellent route with lots of sustained face climbing on small holds.
Jun 4, 2011
Definitely a fun, worthwhile route on good rock with cool position. There are two-bolt anchors at the start and finish of this pitch. To descend, you can easily rap from top of the route back to the two-bolt anchor at the start (80'), and then make an angling rap along the Pseudo-Sidetrack ramp back to the ground (110', or 100' with 4th class downclimbing).
Jun 3, 2011
We, me, my partner and Rossiter feel the crux is by the the first bolt. I thought this pitch was not a give away for the grade (much harder than Backtalk which I'd done immediately prior.) The climbing rock and position on the "slab" (above the second bolt) are quite nice. This route is similar to its sister routes, Blackwalk, Backtalk etc., but the ambience is more out there and the rock is unpolished. For those shorter than 5'7" the move above the 4th bolt could raise the difficulty and severity of the pitch. Continuously interesting after the 1st 10 feet. Typical Eldo crux, the rating seems accurate once you figure out the trick. There is also some 5.10 climbing by the 3rd and 4th bolts.
Jun 28, 2003
- Pseudo Sidetrack
This is a terrific route, and certainly one of my favorites at Eldo. The exposure is exciting, the climbing easy and fun with good rock and good movement. The protection is reasonable for the experienced leader. It is probably considered 'R' by some because a fall at the wrong spot on p1 or 2 traversing could be serious, but otherwise protection opportunities are ample. PG13 would be my vote. We finished on the 5.5 direct finish, which was good but would be even better without all of the flaky lichen near the top. PG13 here, too. Definitely a classic.
Nov 16, 2013
I believe the "R" rating pertains mostly to the first pitch, and I would be more inclined to call it PG-13. The risk factor is more evident to the second, following the first pitch, especially if it's regarded as a "date climb" for an inexperienced GF. I've had several young females get real freaked out by the rapidly found exposure. That said, this is probably one of the few "easy" routes in Eldorado that could be called a "classic."
May 11, 2013
The direct 5.5 finish, the last pitch, did not seem "R" to me. I found lots of small cam placements. This is a fun route!
Nov 8, 2012
@ Jeffeos I onsight soloed the route with the (licheny) direct finish. The rock is pretty solid by Eldo standards, there is minimal polish, and I didn't find the routefinding difficult (I do a lot of alpine soloing but was new to Eldo at the time). It is definitely exposed in spots especially on the lower ramp. I would say Swanson's Arete (minus getting up to it), Recon, and Breezy all feel mellower from an exposure perspective.
Nov 1, 2012
Has anyone free soloed the route? 5.4 is typically a very casual solo, but some of the reviews leave me wondering if this routes deserves a run on rope first.
Aug 10, 2012
To expand on Levin's entry here on MP, there is a fixed pin on P1 before you traverse around the bulge. The "belay with a poor anchor" described in Rossiter would indeed be that without the bolt noted by Steve. Decent pro can be had in the shallow crack below it. P2 has another fixed pin along the ramp, continue to the bolt and ring-piton anchor as Steve describes. From this belay at end of P2, eyeball the fixed pin approx. 20 feet above and slightly to your right -- note the eye of the pin is half-broken through. After making moves above the pin, run it out up the ramp to the pine tree and belay. Or turn right just short of the tree and combine P3 with P4, continuing to the belay at the large ledge. As of this writing, there is a fixed nut where you enter the dihedral. The 5.5 variation finish offers an unexpected touch of spice. It protects reasonably well. Thoroughly enjoyable, I think a classic in its rating. But do exercise caution and judgment; like The Bulge, your second needs to be competent.
Oct 2, 2011
This is an extremely nice, early season warm up for more experienced climbers. This is a bit scary for beginners, as a slip on the first lead would result in a bad swing. The pro is reasonable for any competent leader, but I wouldn't suggest this for a rookie. There are several old but still good fixed pitons on p.1. Bring plenty of longer slings to direct the rope from getting hooked on flakes. A 60 meter rope makes this a 2 pitch climb. The upper pitch is very nice climbing on chickenheads with good protection with a light rack of nuts and a few smaller cams. I've done this climb around 8-10 times, and always have found it to be fun. The 5.4 R rating is a bit of a "sandbag" and is based on finding the absolute easiest line. I'd be more inclined to call it 5.5 R however. Not that big of a deal, though.
May 31, 2010
Another fun variation is PA's Variation. Try it out for a finish if you want a little more "spice in the chili".
Oct 4, 2008
Running P1 and 2 together would be OK, I guess, if you were in a hurry and were careful with your gear placements, but why?? It's a great view from the P1 belay and it's comfy. Aside from that, the "small tree about 30 feet short of a huge ledge" (330) for the P3 belay as described in the Rossiter guide is gone. Use the beta from this page instead, and head all the way up to the big tree on Lower Juniper ledge to belay.
Jul 9, 2007
The old quarter incher at the second belay has been replaced. I don't recommend combining the lower 3 pitches as described by Leo above. Belay after a short lead at the first bolt you come to (a cam backs this up)- this will reduce the chance of getting the rope caught in the flakes one traverses left around near the start of pitch 1. Then belay at the end of the long diagonal section at the newly replaced bolt and a fixed ring angle- to minimize rope stretch in the event of a fall and to allow better communication between climbers. Pitch three goes up and right past a fixed pin and onward to Sidetrack Junction (i.e. the large ledge) etc. This is an excellent, exposed, and devious route that the 5.4 leader (or follower!) should approach with caution.
May 4, 2007
A great route no one ever does. What could be better....
Jun 8, 2004
- Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish
I OSS this and have repeated it since. I don't find it harder than anything else on the route. Makes for a great finish.
Apr 4, 2013
I actually climbed this in 1965 "by mistake" with Larry Dalke, while trying to figure out where Whistle Stop went. We climbed the first Whistle Stop pitch, but Dalke then angled right and surmounted the little roof by mistake. He yelled back down that it was "only 5.7." I later figured out that we had crossed over Pseudo Sidetrack; I subsequently led Pseudo Sidetrack using this variation several times in the mid 1960s. Not really recommended for a beginning 5.7 leader, since it's a "Dalke 5.7." It could be that Dalke and I cobbled together something of a "first ascent", but I'm not claiming one.
Jun 2, 2011
- Redguard
Be careful on the last pitch! THERE IS A HUGE - 1 TON - BLOCK PERCHED ON ITS NOSE ON A SLOPING LEDGE RIGHT BELOW THE CAVE ON THE LAST PITCH OF THIS ROUTE. It appears to have moved about an inch or so as noted by the grooves/scratch marks behind it. Given its position, it threatens a very large, high-traffic area below. Is there a possibility this can safely be trundled? Update: today (6/15/16) Gregger Man and Mike McHugh safely trundled this killer block. It exploded and peppered the approach/descent trails with blocks the size of microwaves, and a few of those made it all the way to the river. Glad it's GONE! Thank you, gents, for your efforts!
Jun 7, 2016
Climbed this historic route today with perfect conditions, 56F with no wind and mostly sunny. I would not recommend this route on a hot day due to the polished holds. Doubles in the small cams is recommended, tri cams and the #4 cam was useful on multiple pitches. If the R rating has kept you away from this route, go try the standard route (North Face 5.6 R) on the Maiden. If you like the Maiden and are an experienced Eldo climber, you will appreciate this route. I also recommend a partner that is competent at the same grade. Not a route to bring a beginner sport climber on.
Nov 23, 2015
Rodger is right, this route is a CLASSIC. Back in the day of klettershoes and Robbins boots this was considered an awesome climb at the 5.7 level.
May 28, 2015
The OW on P3 was good. Surprised by all the lichen on P6. Most of the route, like climbing on glass.
Oct 23, 2010
I now realize why I have never done this before. Clearly the FA party was seeking the most viable way up the imposing wall which, unfortunately, turned out not to be the best climb in the end. The Birdwalk is basically a bunch of rotten rock.
Aug 11, 2010
I've climbed this route 17 times starting in 1960 and forward.... There are 3 standard starts; this description is the famous "Birdwalk" start. A safer and more pleasant one is "Variation to the Lower Meadows" at 5.6+/5.7-. It is also somewhat tricky and many good climbers have fallen on it. It avoids the slick, black rock of the 'Birdwalk" start, however, and makes for a more pleasant experience. This route IS a classic.
Jul 18, 2010
This is definitely the slickest route I've ever touched in Eldo.
Nov 25, 2009
Nice line, though a bit polished. Agreed, the first and last pitches are good, though the middle pitches are long and easier. I'm afraid to ask what kind of accidents happened here. I'm not sure what pitch gets the 'S' rating as the gear was decent throughout. Very polished.
Sep 6, 2007
I agree with Ernie; an experienced leader will have no problem getting reasonable protection on the Birdwalk. However, if you read the accident statistics outside the Eldorado outhouse, Redguard Route is one of the top routes for accidents, along with the Bastille Crack, Calypso, and Tagger. It's not a pitch for a novice 5.7-5.8 leader. Regarding the photos and the steepness of the route: the crux headwall past the pin is dead vertical. The stance above the pin is a little pumpy too. I look at the angle of the runners hanging from the climber's harness to judge if a photo is tilted. There may be a slight tilt in the first photo, but the other photos are accurate.
Sep 22, 2003
We climbed this today and I lead the P1,3, & 5 and have a few comments. The Birdwalk pitch is a great pitch and protects well. I didn't have any problem with the stance placing pro above the pin. The stance is not that bad, but as Ron notes, I suppose a budding (8) leader could get wigged out right there, if they weren't confident at the grade. We went up and did the first pitch of Anthill and then traversed over to upper Redguard. Last pitch was cool...we did a harder variation to the right of the giant boulder at the top. Also, IMO the photo's below are great but, somewhat deceptive...the photographers angle make the first pitch look steeper than it really is...good route.
Sep 22, 2003
The first and last pitches are stellar; the rest of the climb is mediocre. Be sure to back up the old pin protecting the crux of the first pitch; I used a green Alien. This pitch gets an "s" rating because the next piece of pro after the pin is about 10' higher up at an insecure stance. I placed a #1 Camalot here. If you fall off before getting this piece, you'll land on the ledge below the pin. Originally rated 5.7, the first pitch has been uprated to 5.8+ in recent guidebooks, probably to discourage 5.7 leaders from attempting it. The first and last pitches are great; the rest is mediocre. The slick ramp is particularly obnoxious. Old school 5.7, new school 5.8.
Sep 9, 2003
Watch out for rockfall, this is somewhat of a high angle funnel. Perhaps my judgement was clouded because this was the first route I did in Eldo, but it seemed pretty cool.
Oct 21, 2002
The climbing was not very good, but since it has some history and climbs the Redgarden pretty directly, I give it one star.
Oct 12, 2002
The first pitch is pretty entertaining and is a good way to start Anthill Direct if Touch and Go is swamped.I don't think there are pins at the start of the traverse anymore, or at least I didn't see them. I did the upper pitches once when a threatening storm thwarted our attempt on the Diving Board. We simul-climbed it pretty quickly, but be careful, as the polish is slick-as-snot... probably the slickest polish in Eldo. IMHO, I don't really think the upper pitches are worth doing and certainly not worthy of "classic" status. Some people will probably disagree.
Oct 11, 2002
This was the first route I ever did in Eldo in 1983, and I recall getting a bit freaked out leading the first pitch (alternate and safer starts are possible). The upper section of the route has a nice position and is worth doing, but it seems rarely climbed these days.
Aug 19, 2002
- Restless Nights
The second anonymous coward, the one that posted this route, would have been me. It is harder than the Lion, so more like 12c than b. The holds are quite small, the climbing very tenuous. In regards to Kiff's question, doing it in one pitch with Night would make for a great pitch. Rope drag might be an issue. Also note that I led it with the two first pieces pre-placed. Should have gone back to do it "properly" but never did.
May 29, 2015
Has this and Night ever been linked for a single pitch of fear packed glory?
Apr 30, 2012
I was happy not to be on the sharp end of this one! It is a beautiful section of rock and the climbing is sustained and THIN. Art Veg has a longish reach so I'd be curious how someone with a shorter set of arms would do this. If you do Walk the Talk, there are 2 options - use the bolt and holds on Blacktop or follow the original 'undercling' just above - both lead to the rest of the traverse just fine. Modern climbers will no doubt prefer the bolt and somewhat harder moves. x0x0x0x0 Elvis P.S. High Noon is a great pitch. Kudos to Mike.
May 3, 2004
- Semi-Wild
Some wasps on it, but they are NOT nesting and not aggressive. I just shooed them off and out of the cracks, placing gear right where they were on occasion (one here and there for 40'). I think they like the dark rock in fall/winter there. The runout is really not so bad anywhere that the climbing is 5.8 or harder. The crux protects on small stoppers and an Alien or two within 10' of a secure stance post-crux. The climb can be done in 3 pitches ground to summit. P1. However you like - Touch And Go, Lower Meadow Var., Crack Var., whatever - up to the 2 bolt belay on the South-facing ramp below the start of Anthill Direct (5.depends, 150+'?). P2. Up Semi-Wild to Join Anthill Direct, belay on a purple Camalot and 2x pitons below the first high roof on the Anthill Wall (5.9++, 220'). P3. Up to the arete on good gear (pass a ring piton 5 meters up) and then under the roof, skipping that belay, then up to the top and up the slab to a good belay at a horizontal with 1.5-3" cams for pro (5.9, 200').
Nov 12, 2016
Tony's tale reminds me of an experience I had on this route back in late eighties:I had to back off S.W. because I had blown out the inside toes of my Sportiva Monolo's. Remember the old green shoes that were built with a symetrical last. The idea was that the shoes could be worn on either foot (there was no left and right) and when you blew out the inside toe, you could just swap them around and wear them on the other foot. A nice idea but the problem was that once you wore them they conformed to your foot and then when you tried to swap them, it was like trying to wear standard shoes on the wrong feet.Anyway, my feet were in absolute agony, so my partners and I decided to bail. I was so distraught that, without thinking, I tossed the rap line down without calling "rope!"I was [embarrassed] beyond belief when my rope nailed a guy who was roping up at the base. That guy was Layton Kor. He had come out of hibernation and was climbing with Justin Kramer, a kid from his neighborhood. I finally got to meet my hero and the circumstances of our meeting was not as I had hoped.Boy did I feel like an an idiot. The one time I tossed the bail line without giving warning and I nail Colorado's most prolific and famous climber.
Sep 22, 2005
For the second time in 8 years I've backed off of this pitch- there is a nest of yellow jackets in it about 2 meters up the crack from the blank slab. They are aggressive.
Sep 19, 2005
I'm pretty sure "Upper Ramp" should be replaced with "Lower Meadow" in a few places in this description.
Aug 26, 2005
- Semi-Wild Slab
- Shades of Gray
I'm also unsure of the correct route up pitch 3. I started from the Bulge anchor and traversed to above the "alcove" with feet on a balancy ramp with bad hands. From there, I shot up and just slightly left to the next Bulge anchor. The seam I encountered at the overhang I managed to fiddle a sideways RP into, and the only okay piece on the pitch was now 10'-12' below me. After pulling the seam, it is then runout to the anchor on crystals and cobbles (5.7 or so) and quite heady. Not sure if I was on the correct line or not, even for R it seemed pretty poorly protected, as a fall after the crux and to the top would have you on the ride of your life and going way past the belay.... If I ever do this climb again, I will definitely sandbag my partner into leading P3.
Oct 23, 2014
The crack on pitch two is great until it ends half way through the pitch. Where the crack ended, I climbed straight up and left to join the anchors for 'The Bulge'. I started the third pitch from the bolt anchors, headed up and left, and found myself seriously runout with questionable gear placements down and right from me. After repeated attempts I retreated and probably did a variation of the third pitch.
Oct 7, 2007
The 3rd pitch does start in said alcove. When you get there you can set pink and red tricams or a few similarly sized stoppers overhead in the crack you will see only upon arrival there. I belayed at the anchors though, and then went left as part of the next pitch. As well, we also did the bulge/roof just left of the bolted belay of the roof- took a orange HB microcam and a few stoppers, but none were very good. A second small cam would have made me feel better (.3") but was not on my rack, so we did without. Moves are juggy to a good pinch and then sloper there. Nice variation.
Sep 14, 2003
- Sticky Feet
- To Night
Exciting for 5.10!, but maybe I went the wrong way at the crux. Easy to do in one pitch and lower to the ground with a 70m rope. I'd say it's on the verge of X. Definitely R. Slider nut and a 0.5 is about all you get.
Oct 31, 2016
I thought this one deserved the "vs" rating, but I guess I could have missed something (like the pro!). A good way to do this route is to continue strait up the right-facing corner above the anchors on Night , which is 9+ s (second pitch of Night?), and then left on the obvious left-leaning crack system (also 9) and up to easier ground. A long, fun and spicy "5.9" outing.
Jul 13, 2002
- Trinity Cracks
I found that double ropes really helped to maximize the gear on this route. When I got everything in, I felt pretty safe on it; even if the RPs in the first seam blow, the gear in the Genesis isn't far below you. It's a very worthy route, both as a toprope variation after doing Genesis or as a lead.
Mar 11, 2010
- Vaporizer, The
A fantastic pitch of engaging face climbing on excellent stone. The fixed wire is no longer in place.
Dec 28, 2016
Awesome climb.
Mar 16, 2012
I think this is one of the best 5.11 face pitches in Eldo! It was approved by FHRC and the public in fall 2006, and follows some beautiful, steep rock. Perhaps no move harder than 11b but so sustained that it's comparable in difficulty to other Eldo 11c's when going for the onsight. Thanks to Brad for this excellent line!
Jan 25, 2010
- Variation to Lower Meadows
- Walk the Talk
This makes a great climb when combined with the first two pitches of Dessert.
Jun 16, 2012
The hangerless quarter inch stud has been replaced...hanger included.
May 4, 2007
Prussiks for the second would not be inappropriate if there's any question of a fall.
Feb 28, 2005
5.9+ seems about right. The route is probably S, owing to a 9+ move getting off of the belay and continuing 5.9 for a short bit to reach the first pro. A factor-2 fall is certainly possible from a 5.9 move. The first pro was a medium stopper at the top of the initial section, pinching and side-pulling on a 2-3 meter long right-facing flake. A passive pink tricam would have been better, but Josh and I disagree on how bad the stopper was. I am pretty darn sure it would have been fine to fall on & I looked at it carefully when I placed it. The first bolt in Rossiter's topo is a hangerless 1/4" split-shaft. It hangs out far enough to swage a stopper over it. The next bolt is good and pro above that is "good enough" with a few cams from quite small to 1.5" plus a #2 Camalot. The best way to finish the route was unclear to me. You can diagonal out left on the crack and overhang system all the way to the bolt-anchors above High Noon and Pilgrim, then pick your way up runout moderate climbing to the big ledge above, but Rossiter seems to indicate crossing the roof just above the second bolt into 5.6 territory to reach the ledge. That option seemed less interesting/fun. The moves from the base to the anchor described are odd and fun. 2-stars in my book right there.
Jun 5, 2004
- Whistle Stop, The
I've done this climb many times (5-6). The only really tricky spot is making a move up and left at the second protection bolt where the slickness of the rock may tend to be somewhat disconcerting to some....I find it to be probably 5.8+, but not a 5.9 section. Overall, a neat climb.
Jun 14, 2010
Easier than most (if not all) 5.8s in Eldo. Sure it takes a little more thought than most 7s, but it no harder than that. I think Scott's comment hits the nail on the head - for many Eldo climbs.
Apr 9, 2009
More fun and steeper than it looks from the start. Definitely on the easier side of 5.9 but still requires thought and some confidence on the lead. A very nice route. Be good at placing pro and take any spots you can find past the initial easy ramp section as there is not much too work with.
Apr 6, 2007
We had three people climbing yesterday and a 70m rope. The second was able to tie into the middle of the rope and the third at the end. Then we were able to rap to the ground with the 70 and did not have to worry about the down climb like when you rap with a 60.
Apr 17, 2006
For a nice second pitch, step left around the corner and climb the 5.8 crack on the right side of the open book that makes up C'est la Vie's second pitch. Very nice and ends at a two coldshut anchor. Rap C'est la Vie.
Feb 3, 2006
This is such a great climb to do after work since the approach is short and easy. There are definately some 5.8's that are much harder than this route; however, I think it deserves the 5.9- because gear is a bit tricky...not hard, just tricky. I am just starting to lead 5.9's and found this to be comfortable yet still a challenge. It made me think. I only wish the route was twice as long. It ends too soon. Does anyone know if there is a second pitch above this route?
Sep 13, 2003
C'mon Ron, it's rated 5.9-. Everyone knows 5.9- is easier than 5.8. Just as 5.9+ is harder than 5.10a.
Sep 4, 2003
I have a hard time calling the move past the bolt 5.9.It's one delicate step up move, easier thanthe difficult moves on Mescaline, which is rated 5.7, and way easier than the 5.9 move on the first pitch of C'est La Vie.I'd call the move 5.7 to 5.8; Erickson had it right. Fun steep crack and face. If this is 5.9, it's the easiest 5.9 in Eldorado.
Sep 4, 2003
This is a surprisingly good climb. Also, it doesn't look like it sees much traffic. We found the moves after the initial ramp interesting and fun. The crux is short and well protected by a bolt. New 5.9 leaders or someone looking to get into the grade would most likely feel right at home here. Just protect the second at the top, like Leo and Ivan say. Well worth doing... Rossiter calls it 5.9- which I thought was pretty close. Though it's more delicate/technical than powerful.
Jun 9, 2003
This is indeed a nice route. At first it looked contrived with a long traverse, but it's a pretty direct diagonal line. Rossiter says it's 150 feet to the anchors, but it was exactly half of my 60m bicolor rope. You can get some big cams in the #3/blue Camalot range on the ramp traverse if you feel the need. After the bolt, to protect the second you can use a big cam as described above or a #1 red/Camalot. A 60m rope gets you to the ground if you diagonal right across blocks at the bottom. This leaves you about 20 feet below where you started.
Jan 25, 2003
- Whittle Wall, The
Think I did the first pitch. Didn't find any pins, bolts, or chalk for that matter. Pro was scarce, but my belay was good, not sure if it was in the right spot. Ended up traversing right, must have missed the part where it goes up cuz I just traversed right all the way to the ground. Guess I need to work on route finding!
May 18, 2009
The S on this route is deserved. The holds are all there but its steep and exposed and there isn't much pro on the second pitch. We belayed at some rap rings under the roof at the end of the traverse just before you cut right. This is a good place to belay as it minimizes rope drag and provides a bomber anchor. The initial traverse has good pro fortunately as this airy traverse is just as dangerous for the follower as the leader. Overall its a fun climb for the grade. Bomber buckets allow steep climbing without exceeding the 5.7 grade--thats a classic in my book.
Apr 23, 2008
The old spinner on the neighboring "Sticky Feet" (not in database) has been replaced.
Jun 12, 2007
We tried this route a couple of weeks ago, and I definitely agree with the comments. The 's' rating on this one is significant. I used quite a bit of pro on the first pitch, but placements around the crux (just above the ramp) are difficult to find and dubious at best. The rock is solid, and there are good hands, but the [feet] didn't inspire much confidence. I also agree with Ivan's comment that the route description appears to be a bit off. Be careful where you place protection down low, and use long slings. I placed a bad piece or two that created terrible rope drag (not good, especially through the crux). It started to rain on us, so we traversed left to the anchors at the top of the first pitch of The Bulge and bailed.
Nov 21, 2005
This probaby shouldn't be your first 5.7 lead.We managed to pull it off in 1 pitch with a 70m cord, and for what it's worth, the somewhat infrequent gear was pretty much all in a nice line although the actual climbing wandered all over the place. Long slings for sure. Pin at 'belay' spot is a rusty angle with one good eye. Arrr!
Feb 28, 2005
The description above is a direct quote from the Rossiter Eldo guide. We shouldn't be just copying guidebook descriptions onto this site. Much better to use your own words and add more detail. Besides, I think Rossiter's description is wrong in a couple of places. On P1 after the initial ramp, instead of "work straight up to a belay", I think the route goes about about 20 feet then traverses way right, past a pin, and then back left on a ramp (the continuation of the ramp that continues down and right to the large pine tree). This bypasses a difficult headwall. And on P2, instead of "traverse right for 30 feet", it's more like 15'. I agree with the comments above that this is a serious undertaking for the grade. Gear is pretty sparse and sometimes funky. Route finding is difficult. I think we belayed too high on P1. The belay was not bomber, and traversing right off of the belay was dangerous until I got some good gear in. If I did this route again I would belay halfway up P2 where the angle eases off and the gear is good. Gear: We used a double set of Friends to #3 and a 3.5 Friend. Placed them all. Plus smaller cams and a single set of nuts.
May 16, 2004
The gear is definitely sub-par and spread out, so take longer slings to avoid too much drag or pulling your gear. This is an adventure climb that you will find some route-finding necessary on.
Jul 16, 2002
- Whittle Whisk
Nice addition, Hard Cor - surprisingly good rock and fun, steep climbing. Looking forward to checking out GRT which appears even better.
Feb 4, 2013
- Redgarden - Tower One
- Alice in Bucketland
10/14/17 - no pins at the first pitch belay, bomber gear anchor can be made. No wasps and bitchin' climbing....
Oct 14, 2017
I could have completely missed the belay, but I did not see any pins anywhere near the second roof for the first pitch belay. I ended up making a good anchor with a #0.75, #1, and a #0.4 There were wasps crawling into the flake directly in front of me when I made my anchor, but they didn't bother us. Absolutely amazing route. You can sew it up after the first pitch roof, although the climbing gets way easier after that.
Apr 14, 2017
Wasps are still there, belay at the flake below the one in the beta photo about 10+ feet below, and they shouldn't bother you....
Apr 12, 2017
There were quite a few wasps floating around the P1 belay as of today, November 15.
Nov 15, 2016
Had to bail from P1 belay and left a little nest of slings and nuts. Msg me if you get them and are motivated to return them. Thanks.
Jun 4, 2015
I would recommend to skip the belay under the second roof and go all the way up to the first tree where you will find two old pitons and said small tree to build a belay with. This is doable with a 70m rope (rope stretcher). Before the second roof, you will find a good, blue Metolius placement. Extend it with a double shoulder length sling to avoid drag. You should also extend the protection before the first roof with a double should length sling. The route is brilliant! I really enjoyed it.
Dec 20, 2014
FA in 1976...hmmmmm, I must have oldsheimer's. I could swear that I did it 2 or 3 yrs earlier, and that it was in the '72 High Over Boulder, must be thinking of something else. I remember doing Friday's Folly on the 3rd and telling my partner how much I liked that vertical jugfest, then I thought he took me to do Alice as the next step in vertical jugs.
Sep 30, 2014
Definitely no pins, or tat (per latest Levin book and what my partner remembered from a year ago) for the P1 hanging belay... you're gonna have to build your own. Awesome big nut out left, trucker 0.75 overhead, and a grey X4 to the right will get you a belay you could hang a submarine off of - you will have to, however, cast off without those pieces (and anything else you happened to throw in there). Also, if you are considering doing it in two pitches with a 60m, do not use the rope to equalize the pieces: you'll need all but 10-15 feet of it to get to the top.
Jun 29, 2014
11-21-12: No hymenoptera nor pins at the belay, though I could have not been looking well enough. Also, I was able to get plenty of pro in p1 (some may have been more psychological than functional) with little drag, using slings judiciously.
Nov 21, 2012
Far better in exposure and rock quality than the upper pitches of Ruper. The upper ramp is full of ticks. Fortunately Ryan belayed P1 ;)
Jun 13, 2012
Fun stuff. Both the roofs were super fun, almost swing moves on jugs. a fitting name for the climb. Didn't bring enough water for this hot afternoon climb and became super dehydrated, so I didn't enjoy it as much as I would have if I had more water. Great climb.
Jun 17, 2011
Climbed today with D.S. An exceptional route! Update: 1 pin @ the P2 hanging belay and a full army of hornets. The hornets were high in numbers but very passive, and they left us alone. Ah, what a great climb!
Apr 16, 2011
Still only one pin at the sling belay. Pin is good; a big nut works well for hanging there, but gosh, I woulda sure liked to have had a 0.75 Camalot in the crack above for ultimate peace of mind. Great route!
Oct 9, 2010
With a little bit of 4th classing (20ft or so), a 70m cord, and long slings you can do the whole thing in one long pitch....
Jan 19, 2009
I first did this route as a free-solo in 1986 and considered it default 5.8 (as there was no 5.9 on it). I did it again last week and have to stand by that assessment. While it's a bit scary at the second roof, my opinion of the technical difficulty stands. Tri-cams have worked well when I've led it, but still runout for the grade. Psych factor not withstanding, an excellent route. Interesting discussion on the best 5.8. Alice might be up there. Sounds like the makings of a fun thread. Via Mirriam (Standard Route) on the Cinque Cima Grande is pretty sweet, RW. Pingora, Pear Buttress, and Bonne Homme Variation might make my list too.
Sep 4, 2008
Buzz, I think you've been climbing in the gym too much. This route is no more difficult that 5.8, even by today's standards. Maybe you are making the entry move from the roof onto the face above in a difficult place but grading this climb 5.9 is way off.
Jun 14, 2008
If one had those two roofs dialed, 5.8+ might seem right, but onsite I'm willing to say those roofs are niners. The commitment factor of those moves, and the continuous steepness elsewhere, make this a remarkable route. Doubling up on 1" and 2" would really help on P1, and plenty of small stuff for P2.
Jun 14, 2008
No bees as of 4/28/08. Only one pin at first belay. Other gear options definitely exist for the anchor. Good natural anchor is not a problem. Me and my partner (about 400lbs +) enjoyed a hanging belay off of the pin, a #0.5 Camalot (a #0.75 Camalot may work as well) and a finger size nut, each piece in a separate rock feature, nicely equalized. Excellent route!
Apr 30, 2008
Still no wasps, just damn awesome climbing.
Mar 24, 2008
As of 2/24/2008 there is only one pin at the belay.
Feb 24, 2008
There are no wasps on the route as of today. Gear beta: there are two great yellow Alien placements just before the crux 2nd pitch roof.
Nov 10, 2007
Did this route with Danny I. as a Rosy linkup we're dubbing "Rosy Alice". Alice is the perfect 5.8 route for one who is a comfortable 5.10 leader in Eldo. The moves pulling the roofs on both pitches were blind and committing and there was fairly regular 20-30 ft run out sections. The route was easily done to the top of the saddle in two pitches with good runners. Note: The bees/wasps were in full effect as 10/7 at the 1st belay.
Oct 7, 2007
The wasps are back at the P1 belay. It was easy enough to redirect the hanging belay to the right with a couple small cams. They didn't seem aggressive.
Apr 25, 2007
Indeed, the 'S' rating is correct while pulling the roofs/corners on both pitches. Both roofs are committing, falling is not an option as a fall would be nasty. The grade felt right to me, just a bit scary.
Apr 16, 2007
Excellent route. Agreed, stiff for the grade and the "s" rating is legit. Pro placement requires some creativity. There is good gear just below each crux, but a fall after each roof will send you for a whip. Dont let the rope get caught under the left leg. Backup the hanging belay with gear as described. T Nydam
Sep 12, 2005
Quite an excellent route! Even better than Ruper. The two pin belay can be easily supplemented with gear in a much better crack just above and to the right. The pins are driven behind a block that is funky looking, in that it has fissures and cracks all the way through it. Definitely use gear in the crack, too. While you are here, you can pose the question to your partner, "Suck it or bucket?"
Jun 19, 2005
This climb is not to be missed! Steep rock, dramatic setting, esthetic climbing and exciting cruxes. From the first belay, it's one long 60 meter pitch to the top, using all but about ten feet of the rope.
Jun 7, 2005
Second time on this baby, and folks it doesn't get much better, steep, juggy and nothing but fun.A little bit of a hair raiser pulling the roof, but it all goes and wow, have fun.......
Sep 26, 2004
OK, but as of June 26, the pins were OK. I'd suspect that the left pin loose was caused by a crux fall- which would pull the left pin out torqued to the right. Someone musta hammered it back in. Nonetheless, maybe I'll put a nice long angle in up & to the right of the existing two to make it bomber next time I am up there. Is there a community consensus on that? Seems like a reasonable thing, to replace an old placement if people feel that the historical belay is poor. Then again, you can back it up on gear, so people nervous can also just leave a stopper and sling too.
Jun 28, 2004
This is in response to tonys comment above. Last I checked (5/ 04) both pins in this anchor were pretty shady and the left one could be removed by hand. I would have taken it, but it was tied into the anchor with a tattered old cord and I didnt have my knife. The best belay is above the second roof on a ledge over a short obtuse dihederal. Great route, have fun.
Jun 28, 2004
What a route! Both roof sequences rock. As of the middle of October, there were still a ton of bees at the belay station under the second roof.
Oct 16, 2003
Dale - The East Slabs descent is not a walk-off. It's a long down-climb. Many would argue that it's not safer than rapping. I've done it both ways and prefer to use the Chockstone Chimney and Vertigo raps. I know of at least one person to die on the east slabs descent after getting caught in the rain.
Sep 17, 2003
Just a quick comment about the descent beta givin above. You are practicaly at the top of the east slab descent. Just walk off!! If is much safer then all the rapping!!
Sep 17, 2003
The [variatio Ivan mentions above is called Phallus in Suck-It-Land and is a Rossiter climb. Furthermore, you can duck out left and diagonal up and left at a angle 35 degrees from straight up (in a line contiguous with pitch 1) and arrive at the single bolt belay of Upper Grand Giraffe. I did this in 1996 (Bubb/Thompson or Bubb/Peters) and again yesterday. I called this Talus in Duck-It-Land at the time due to a large rock that popped off. It is mostly easy climbing as well and from either left-hand variation of 'Alice' you can reach to top of the wall in about 60m even. Great route, one of the best at its grade in Eldo. It is a little powerful here and there, and the only devious move is the second roof, which can be skipped to the left as mentioned if you feel marginal on this route "Tallus In Duck-It-Land" is the easiest variation. The cord on the belay under the second roof (the first belay) is really terrible as of 4/20/03. I replaced the belay slings on 9/25/04, they are presently bomber, but on two old, yet decent pins. The old cord can now be cut, but was not because it was intertwined into my belay when I replaced it- not so simple to do at the time. Although I would not hesitate at present to rap off of the new set-up, it would still be advisable to back the thing up if you are belaying on it, due to the probable direction of force in the event of a fall from the crux. The old cord was expertly placed to be redundant due to the knot and should be closely replicated.
Apr 21, 2003
There's an easier variation to the second pitch. Instead of going right and pulling the 5.8+ roof with tricky protection, you can go left from the hanging belay and wander up mostly 5.7 terrain with reasonable protection (a bit run-out but regularly spaced pro) and solid lichen-covered rock. I've done it both ways and actually find the left variation just as enjoyable because of the route-finding and the consistent difficulty.
Apr 10, 2003
P1. There is a little edge/flake on the lip of the roof that can catch & provide ample rope drag. Look down & check the rope after you clear the roof. Also, a #3 Camalot piece is near-essential just after clearing the roof to avoid ground fall potential. There are two pins at the belay anchor. P2 has 2 pins in the L-facing dihedral near its top. You can belay at the 1st of the pins. Descent: Just L by perhaps 100 feet or so is the rap down Chockstone Chimney (1x30m). This leaves you at the top of the descent line L of Vertigo or at the top of the ramp you can descend to the Naked Edge raps (3x25m).
Apr 3, 2003
You don't have to run it out above the first roof to avoid rope drag. I used a double length sling before swinging right around the first roof. Getting situated after the roof is a little scary, but you can place a good #3/blue Camalot at the "rail". You can clip this short, and the rope will run fine, assuming you didn't place gear until you got to the roof. This was the first time I've done the route, and I had a hard time staying calm. There's enough gear, maybe every 10 feet or so, but much of it is not inspiring. I followed the second pitch and, looking for an easier way, swung right around the roof onto a sloping ledge (similar to the pitch 1 move). Don't do this! It's hard, and there are no good handholds after you swing right. Then it's really hard moving left to get back on the normal line.
Jan 12, 2003
Just a quick comment on the wasp situation at the first belay. It seems that about a million wasps make their home behind the flake that contains the two pin anchor. Unless you are accustomed to having wasps crawling all over you while belaying, I'd recommend avioding this route until it gets cold again. I suppose one could combine the first two pitches, but I'm not sure where a decent belay could be had over the second roof. I had to downclimb the pitch to above the first roof and then climb over to Ruper.
May 16, 2002
No, Richard isn't right. Because the Cima Grande isn't at Cinque Torre! It is at the Tre Cime de Laverado. At least the famous Cima Grande of the "Six Great North Faces of the Alps" fame. Perhaps the Cinque Torre also has a Cima Grande...
Apr 1, 2002
Are those .8 "+"? I wasn't sure. I'm sure you're right though Richard. How about in Eldo...
Feb 9, 2002
Better than the Durrance route on the Grand? Or, better than the Standard Route on Cima Grande at Cinque Torre?
Feb 8, 2002
Just did this route again a couple days ago. My partner and I have decided that this is potentially the best route of it's grade anywhere. Anyone disagree?
Feb 8, 2002
The gear is good and frequent enough to be "safe" but not frequent enough to prevent a long fall. The second roof probably could produce a frightening result, as could the first pitch, but I don't think people would be SERIOUSLY injured if they place the available protection. 2 sets of 1.5" to 3.5" cams would help in the first pitch. I agree that a 5.8 leader should not be on it, but if you feel good on 5.8 and are mentally solid, I don't think 5.10 ability is prerequisite.
Jan 14, 2002
It really is a "bucketland"! Go see for yourself!
Aug 1, 2001
The second roof on this climb is a little hairy; stiff for the grade without reliable protection.
Jan 1, 2001
- Apple Strudel
Given a few spots of lichen after the crux and some friable holds sprinkled throughout, this is not an Eldo classic but nevertheless a great route. The .10c start is easily PG-13 if not R or possibly even X. Years ago onsight my foot slipped a few moves short of clipping the first bolt, and I took an out-of-control fall catching the rope behind one leg. One of the two brass offsets I placed held. Somehow I missed the big ledge probably due to the rope behind the leg inverting me at the exact "right" moment. I stopped upside down seven feet above the ground unscathed but shaken. There is a friable tin-sounding critical hold in the opening .10c section that will break someday - not if but when. In addition, the entire flake you're climbing up is hollow. An additional bolt at the start mid-flake height would be a welcome addition.
Nov 20, 2016
You can protect the start moves with a 0.5 down low and a red DMM alloy offset before the crux.
Nov 11, 2015
Thanks, Matt and Greg, for replacing/reusing the bolts on this route. Much appreciated.
Dec 8, 2014
Hardware update for P2: two more welded-shuts on the P2 face have been upgraded to 1/2" x 3" Stainless Power-bolts with Stainless hangers. One welded-shut remains under the roof on P2. We'll upgrade it sooner or later.
Mar 29, 2014
Mandatory stick clip or don't fall it will hurt. Third bolt is hard to clip for short peeps. Good route. The bashy is kinda a joke should be replaced, easy ground I guess Eldo people would say.
Feb 28, 2014
The 2nd pitch is not to be missed! Lots of great face climbing.
Jan 5, 2013
According to High Over Boulder, 1970: "Via a very thin flake, reach a bolt 15-20 feet up, and continue nailing upward. etc."
Sep 3, 2007
Good route, tricky move just before hitting the overhang and going right. Insecure, but not difficult down low. be careful indeed. This route would be much easier to beta-flash than to on-sight, I wager, because the crux move is not that hard, just hard to read and anticipate.
Feb 2, 2006
Intricate balancy face climbing with sequential foot work. An Eldorado classic. A fall getting to the first bolt would be dangerous and probably warrants a semi serious rating. FYI, the first bolt was in place when I first did the route in '85 or '86.
Mar 15, 2004
It is possible to rap with a 60m rope in 2 raps, but you need to swing over to the triple bolt anchor atop pitch one to get to those anchors for the second rap. Not too bad.
May 1, 2002
- Art Of Slappiness, The
Agreed, way to steal one from the Canyon Chris. I've been looking at that thing (while it mocked me) for years.
Feb 18, 2008
Congratulations Chris! This has been waiting a long time to be completed.. Nice Work!!
Feb 18, 2008
Very cool! Great job, Chris!
Oct 16, 2007
- Art's Spar
Rob and I cruised Vertigo Direct Finish back in 1984ish, then I at least got completely shut down by this climb. Hero to zero.
Jun 3, 2013
Off the top of my head: 10c roof routes: Grandmother's, Tagger, Whiplash, Electric Aunt Jemima, Sooberb, Muscle and Hate. 10d roof routes: Psychosis direct finish, Vertigo finish, Stay Hungry, Trident. I know ratings are style and size dependent, but as a reasonable accomplished crack climber, this one is still harder than any of those. If you like roof climbing but this one swats you down, don't feel bad. Give it another go, and put the above on your tick list for other fun things to try. Speaking of which, some other roof/crack routes in at 11a: Tombstone, Neon Lights, Bat's Ass Dihedral (though the crux is not the roof), Le Toit, On-Slot, Diving Board. Also 11b: Bacon and Ergs, Wingshot. I guess that's what I can think of for now. Eldo is not a huge roof-crack Mecca.
May 8, 2011
A #3.5 Camalot may fit nicely without robbing the left when a #3 is used.
Mar 7, 2011
Finally got on this today and thought that it was harder then the Vertigo Roof. I agree with Tony...the bigger the mitts the easier it'll be. Thanks for sharing your story Jim!
Mar 20, 2008
I've always thought this route was hard for 5.10. And now I have confirmation from Jim Erickson himself!!
May 17, 2006
This was one of the first routes that I did in Eldo, and it is among my favorites. I can't imagine it ever being considered 5.11. I did it in the early nineties, so I don't know if the hold was broken by then, but it felt like mid-range 5.10 to me. I have done many of the 5.11 Eldo classics, and this route seems nowhere as hard. I have free soloed Tagger at least fifty times, and it always seemed harder than this roof. Maybe it is a hand size and height thing for some people. At any rate, it is fun route with an exciting position, and I would recommend it to any solid 5.10 climber.
Oct 1, 2005
Some Pre-Cambrian history: Nobody really knows the story of the name of this route except the three of us. Climbers have always assumed that it was named for the crux roof, but that is not true. When we first did this climb, we started up the 5.8 dihedral of Grand Giraffe for 20 feet, then angled left via some run-out face climbing. Art led this pitch, and about halfway up put a long sling around a horn. Art was from Steamboat Spgs, and had quite a Western Drawl, yelling down "I'll just wrap this sling around this spar here" (he was trying to say spire). Steve and I giggled about this as he led the rest of the run-out pitch, and decided to name the route Art's Spar. I immediately remember that in North Boulder at that time, there was a sleazy "Gentlemen's Club" called Art's Bar and Grill, so I thought we should call it Arts Spar and Grill, but the simpler name stuck. About the grade: Art led the first pitch and I led the short 5.9 lieback to the roof, so Steve got to lead the roof. It took him two or three tries to work out the moves, but Art and I followed without falling, so we all felt it was an easy 5.10 like Superslab, Northwest Corner, or T-2 but not a solid 5.10 like Guenese or Naked Edge or Vertigo. When I was regrading climbs for "Rocky Heights" in 1976, all these routes got upgraded of course, and I graded Arts Spar 5.10d, but I feel that 11a/b or 11b is probably more appropriate today. I have no idea where the 10c grade came from. It's harder than that, in my opinion. Jim Erickson
Sep 30, 2005
The route is really fun when approached via SuperSpar or the alternate pitch of "Ruper to Grand Giraffe" (see this site). I did it in autumn of 1995 and then again today and personally do not think that, within those dates, any "broken hold" has changed the difficulty of the climb; it has always been a little harder than most of the Eldo 5.10 standard bearers. Maybe 5.11a? People with big paws might find the last big jam more secure and downgrade accordingly. I for one have small hands & find it to be a little rattly. I've always clipped the fixed gear in the Vertigo roof and ran up it, but this one gives me pause.
May 31, 2004
See comments under Superspar.
Mar 21, 2004
[Rossiter's 2000 guidebook] calls this route 10d/11a and says that a block recently fell out making it more difficult.
Jun 27, 2002
Ah, such is the nature and challenge of the overhang...a sequence not quickly mastered leads to the rapid diminishment of strength on grades one would normally float. The Spar is certainly 5.10...even in these sorry days of grade inflation. It's only 3 hand moves to the jug once you sort out the sucker holds from the good.
Aug 23, 2001
- Better Layton Never
5.12 seemed about right to me; however, I agree with Stefan...the block took all the fun out of this one for me personally...yikes.
Sep 18, 2017
That big block just hanging up there between bolts 1 and 2 is freaking scary! Does it move/flex, or was it just my psyche going nuts when I was hanging upside-down on it?! Maybe I just need more time to figure out the beta, but even relative to other Eldo 12b's (e.g. Scary Canary, Hairstyles, Song of the Dodo), this felt much harder. Perhaps even harder than Your Mother. I honestly would not be surprised to see it get a 13-.
Jun 2, 2014
Thanks to A.C.E. and the state park for the hardware and otherwise facilitating the new route process. Have fun!
May 15, 2014
- Blueberry Boodle
- Body Tremors
Do not wander too far left on the face. If you do, like I did, you will likely end up going a really really long ways above the pin before you find gear of any sort. Overall, an awesome, unique pitch that is not to be missed! 4 stars in my book.
Mar 1, 2011
I thought the climbing on this was good but leading it took away from the fun. The gear for the bottom half is suspect, along with the rock quality. Extras in the red, blue and especially the yellow Camalot sizes would help for all the huecos. On the other hand, my second absolutely loved it....
Oct 26, 2009
This climb reminded me of Tanks for Huecos in Penitente Canyon. However, this climb has less chalk, is less polished, is more sustained at the grade, and is infinitely more adventurous. So, if Tanks for Huecos gets 4 stars.... An absolutely stellar pitch. If you like steep jug hauling, get on this route. In respect to the gear question... honestly I think the longest runout I had was 10 feet. and I was skipping possible placements. I agree, placing gear does pump you out. But I would get pumped if I placed gear every 3 feet on a 5.8 handcrack. And there are actually a good number of solid placements. Think a 6 inch deep hueco consistently the size of a #0.75 Camalot. Awesome holds, awesome exposure, long, adventurous. This is what I look for in a good climb.
Sep 26, 2009
Two days later and I still can't get this climb out of my head!! Really, really fun.
Mar 10, 2009
I'm not convinced when a 5.11 leader (i.e. Tony) says this climb is reasonable for a 5.8 leader. Let's hear from some 5.8 leaders on how reasonable it is! I think the route name is a subtle hint which should not be ignored. Before the days of indoor gyms, your average climber didn't develop such mutant grip strength, and even those big jugs could become hard to hang onto. It is pretty close to vertical for a ways. I'm not arguing that the route is runout. But the more pro you place, the more pumped you become. So in a sense the less gear you place (or if you are on toprope), the easier the climb will feel. Unless you fall off, of course.
Jun 24, 2008
I followed this today and I have to agree with Tony, there is plenty of gear to be had. I think I cleaned 14 or 15 pieces and I saw more placements as I climbed. I wish it had been my lead! The only PG-13 section was at the bottom below the piton. There are tons of holds and lots of rests on this route.
Apr 14, 2008
Boston Baked Beans? Can I have Mike & Ike's instead? Or sour-patch kids? I don't like BBB's. I agree that it is not a place to test one's limits, but it is protectable. I just posted an old picture of Matt Robertson slouching under the weight of the rack I placed and he cleaned last time this argument was had and tested. This is what he looked like when he finished cleaning the route. The only problem in placing so much gear was hauling the Herculean mass up there. I had good gear in for every body length of climbing or so until the top. Up top I had placed everything I took that was bigger than my knuckles, just to prove the point. I put so much in that I ran out of gear... that was my only 'run out.' No less, the PG-13 designation here is appropriate to convey the opinion that the gear placements might be less then obvious, pumpy to place, or require a considerable amount of judgement. A 5.8 leader with lots of gear experience on this route might feel safe if they wish to, by carrying the gear to pro it up. A 5.10 leader with little gear experience might get scared witless regardless of what is carried. I will not deny that some people with plenty of both ability and experience are saying here that they ran it out- but maybe they didn't look hard or maybe they didn't take any larger cams. I won't argue about what they did or did not experience- I will simply say: "Do not try to tell me that this can not be protected." If you did not it has little to do with what CAN BE DONE, and only reflects that you failed to do so or did not try to.
Apr 9, 2007
The people suggesting that this is a "reasonable" route for the 5.8 leader are full of boston baked beans. George Bell's comments are right on the money.
Jun 25, 2005
GRAND GIRAFFE - BODY TREMORS - SMOKE & MIRRORS = 3 STARS. Body tremors itself - 2 stars.5.8s in my opinion: Good pro with long runouts between placements.
May 23, 2004
Fun and unique route. No reason why a 5.8 leader shouldn't get on this one. Protects well enough, but if you're worried bring extra cams in the 1-4" range.
Dec 1, 2003
in the 70's, this climb was on my hit list of R-rated (now termed 'serious') runout challenges to which i could aspire. they would require strength and control, and the exercised belief in being able to downclimb anything you climbed up to be safe. it's nice to see that these kind of routes still inspire. this is a good route for its grade (consider 'breakfast in bed' in a more remote setting). it is steep, but has reasonable rests. it is unprotected (5.7) to the first piton, and groundfall opportunities exist higher up. these days, tri-cams make this a much safer prospect for the aspiring 'R' leader. on this pitch, as with many climbs it is more prudent to back off than to fall off.
Nov 3, 2003
Hard to give more than 1 star to what basically amounts as a free solo on licheny, semi-crumbly huecos.
Jul 30, 2003
Led this yesterday and loved it. Got a lot of gear in but never really relaxed because I don't know if huecos hold cams as well as cracks. My best piece was a #4 Camalot at about a 45-degree angle, compressed well into a reasonably sound pocket. Seemed plenty good as long as the fall didn't torque the cam out sideways. The occasional cracks I saw were all under suspect flakes. (I too tied off that thin arch.) The pitch is high angle for about 100 feet, which kept me well focused if slightly gripped, even though the holds are positive and the sandstone nice and gritty, if a bit friable. Combine with Smoke and Mirrors for a definite three-star topper to whatever got you to the Upper Ramp. A 60m rope should get you all the way to the start, though I stopped a little short because I didn't know where to go. (When you reach a series of blocky ledges, contine 40 or 50 feet up and 15 feet or so to the left (west) until you can see the three bolts on the remaining headwall for Smoke and Mirrors above the highest ledge.)
May 12, 2003
I led this climb yesterday and I must admit found it pretty scary. It seems to me the pitch is longer than 130', we had a 60m rope and I'm not sure how much was left, but the pitch seemed to go on and on (I went almost all the way to the base of Smoke and Mirrors). I managed to get at least 10 pieces in, but this still involved some runouts of 20' or more. Some of the features appear pretty fragile, there was one very thin arch I tied off (stupid), and I was concerned some of the thin-walled heucos would snap. Routefinding is also an issue on this climb. It is truely a sea of holes, but it's not clear where the easiest passage lies, particularly on the upper half. I actually went left at the top, when I noticed Rossiter has the end of the pitch going right. At the top of the route I was often concerened that I was off route and the jugs would end above me. The entire pitch is steep enough that without jugs it would become much harder. The tricky thing about this climb is if you are confident and run it out when it gets steep, you'll be fine, but if you hesitate and start sewing it up (yes it is possible to sew up the steep part, where it is slightly overhanging), you start pumping out. Protection is available but it is tricky to locate the best spots, and sometimes this requires wandering off the easiest line. I would actually not recommend this climb to a 5.8 leader for these reasons. I feel the climb is much better compared to Alice in Bucketland than the upper part of Ruper. The climb reminded me of an indoor route, but one 150' long with no holds marked and no bolts! It is a very nice route, but not to be taken lightly by 5.8 leaders. Better to have a 5.10 leader on this one! By the way, Smoke and Mirrors is a excellent finish after doing this pitch.
Mar 16, 2003
A postscript, of sorts. Tony Bubb and I climbed Body Tremors on Saturday. I found this to be a unique pitch of fun climbing that forces a constant sampling of available holds, most of which are jugs. This would make a nice finish to any of a multitude of fine routes; our link-up of Lower Grand Giraffe to Body Tremors offered a varied line of the type of brutish climbing that I personally enjoy most. A two-point-seven-five star combination (but I'm a stubborn ass). Significantly more interesting than my own experience on Body Tremors was watching Tony just completely festoon the thing with gear. We went up there with a truckload of cams (should have hauled the offwidth on GG) and he was nearly out of gear near the top of the pitch. Twenty-seven (yes, 27) pieces of reasonable, solid pro, and he did not appear to be excessively wandering in search of placements. No one in their right mind would place quite this much protection, but the gear is there - take big stuff and a lot of endurance and you can make this thing as safe as you wish. Some of it will be pumpy to place - I was getting a more-than-5.8 pump just cleaning gear (or maybe it was the twenty pounds of iron on my back) - but the placements did seem reasonable to me - no trickery or excessively crafty fishing, just cams in holes, one good thread, and a few decent nuts. And the rock quality was surprisingly good. If you like steep jug hauling at a moderate grade, go do this route. If you like your steep jughauls to be well-protected, take all the medium to large cams you care to hump up there, and stitch the thing up. I would call it 5.9 or 9+ if you're going to hang out long enough to sew it. Lastly, I recant my implied criticism of anyone's choice of quality ratings for this or any route. It's subjective, it's Eldo, and every inch of the place is a five star gift to us all as far as I'm concerned.
Nov 11, 2001
Tony, I believe we've met, but you probably don't remember (Hudon slideshow). In any case it is beside the point since, as far as I can tell, no one is talking shit about the route. Specifically it seems that they're talking shit about how you decided to rate the seriousness of the climb. Your description seems to imply that the gear is good so long as one is 'solid at the grade'. That is odd and illogical since, last time I checked, gear placements and their quality didn't depend on the climbing ability of the leader. The point Lang, et al. are trying to make with you, and it is a good one, is that the seriousness of a route depends on the consequences of a fall, or the likelihood that the leader will get hurt due to gear pulling or hitting an object. Any guidebook makes this clear. You completely obscure that by implying that the seriousness of the route is somehow diminished for better climbers, which is, to put it simply, total crap. Don't bother checking how many routes, comments, photos or areas I've put up here as many were munched in one of the upgrades. And for the record, before you go picking on people for commenting disproportionately to their route contributions because "anyone can be a critic" remember that anyone with access to the internet can put up routes on this site. Quality is not, as you seem to suggest, a function of quantity.
Oct 31, 2001
I just have to weigh in here. I've done this line so many times, roped and unroped, I think it's pretty irresponsible to recommend it as pretty safe. Provided you do find the placements, most of the cracks have friable rock. In my opinion, a person should be a solid .10- leader to lead Body Tremors, unless they're particularly good at the head game.
Oct 31, 2001
Sometime in the early 80s I found myself on this pitch with a crazy partner whose scorn for personal injury and death ranked somewhere close our current feelings for Bin Laden. As I recall, the climb is something akin to The Sea of Holes, and my partner, whose turn it was to lead, managed to fish in only two good stoppers before the route turned blocky at the top, at about 90 ft. Try scoping the gear before leaving the Upper Ramp. As TB indicates, you can wander around to find the gear - but be sure, you won't find it by picking out a nice obvious vector to the top.
Oct 31, 2001
OK, like I said, it's *** if climbed as a finish from a good climb from the lower ramp. I feel that the uniqueness and length of the pitch make for something to say that is a must do for Eldo climbers. I've climbed about 450 routes in Eldo to date and Body Tremors is one that I've now done several times because I like it so much. As for the runout, it is rated S , but I think that you can fiddle in enough gear to make it safe if you take several set of big cams. Still we don't have an "s-" grade, so I made mitigating statements... (Now 'downgraded' to PG-13 since that option became available.)
Oct 31, 2001
"Pretty safe, overall, for a person solid at this grade"? Doesn't this make the "R/X" and "s/vs" ratings superfluous? Steve or Matt S., the next time you put up one of the Eldo hair-fests, just add "this route is absolutely, positively safe provided that you don't fall."
Oct 31, 2001
The three-star rating is starting to look pretty cheap...
Oct 31, 2001
- Chockstone Chimney
- Consummation Nite
A few years back I got on this and dropped some rocks off.. ones that I had been holding onto at the crux! I think it is pretty heads-up climbing and gear - no true rests or stances for gear in the harder sections of climbing, so you have to fight it out. Not a gimmie!
Mar 28, 2010
Wow, I tried this thing today, I thought it was hard and a bit scary. Maybe my head wasn't in the right place, but the gear seemed pretty bad low in the crack. Near the middle of the crack a couple decent placements appear, but getting everything right on an onsight would be very tough. Fun route though, and really easy to toprope from the chockstone chimney rap anchors.
Mar 4, 2010
- Daedalus
Is this route "Dirty Deed" as shown in Levin's book? Where is Dirty Deed as described on MP located in relation?
Mar 9, 2011
This is a easy route, but fun. Must do the last pitch. The finger, slash hands is awesome. From the base of this wall, you can easily do this route in 3 long pitches, although--it does help if you have a double rope system. Have fun!
Apr 29, 2007
Per the 1961 Dornan guide (Eldorado's first guide): "The Dirty Deed, Grade 5, easy. This route starts in the chimney 150 ft. north of the Yellow Spur. Climb up the crack on the right one lead to a large ledge. Traverse right until it is possible to diagonal up a face south of a gully. The final section of this face is easiest by the south ridge. The route finishes up the Yellow Spur summit." High Over Boulder, First Edition 1967: "The Dirty Deed. I, 5.5. First ascent in 1959 by Charles Alexander and Dean Moore. This route begins in the prominent chimney about 100 feet north of the start of the Yellow Spur. The first lead goes 150 feet up the chimney to a belay ledge near a tree. Scramble right (south) along a ledge. Reach the base of another chimney-crack system. Instead of going up the chimney-crack system, work out onto the high angle slab on the right. Two long leads will take the party to the top of Tower 1." The 1970 second edition of High Over Boulder amended the description to include this: "As an alternative one may avoid these last two leads by staying in the crack (gully) system to left." Jim Erickson's 1980 Rocky Heights guide describes the route as going up the gully to the notch left of the T1 summit, but added "There are several more difficult (5.5 to 5.8) choices on the smooth face near the summit that may be taken as desired."
Feb 19, 2007
Richard Rossiter did not do the first ascent of this route! This was a common route and a variation to the Dirty Deed. Just read Pat Ament's High Over Boulder or Jim Erickson's guidebook, and you will find out that this route was well established before 1981!! I soloed this on a regular basis in the mid 1970s, and I know that I am not the first person to do so....
May 19, 2005
- Deadpoint
- Dirty Deed
I thought this route was awesome! Seriously - good pro, decent rock, great climbing and chimney moves.... So good! I did the first pitch of Dirty Deed and then did a pitch in the chimney to the top. This avoids a junky looking first pitch in the chimney.
Aug 23, 2014
Fun climbing. Fun subtracted by the required chimney approach and loose (hence 'dirty'?) rock along the whole route.
May 7, 2014
Summit rap anchors have the worst rope pull from friction I've ever seen. Expect difficult pulls the entire rope length.
Jul 30, 2012
Just for the record this is what Rossiter says: Page 261 #33: "Not recommended. Often used as a rappel route.... Traverse right along The Red Ledge to the bottom of the gully between Lumpe Tower and Tower One (the Dirty Deed Chimney). Follow this chimney to the top." I may need to buy Levin's book.
Jul 30, 2011
Leo- The Dirty Deed leaves the West Chimney at the Red Ledge, and the climbing resumes about 20 feet to the right on the clean, steep face. There are plentiful holds and cracks to provide protection opportunities, and really great views. One of the most scenic routes in Eldorado. It then follows easy climbing to a ridge-spur, to climber's right facing rock, to the Yellow Spur summit.
Mar 13, 2011
Leo-I've climbed this route at least 7-8 times, and it had been pointed out to me by several other "well known" climbers at the time. The W. Chimney is the 1st lead of the Dirty Deed.
Mar 12, 2011
I am confused. I thought Dirty Deed went up the gully between T1 and Lumpe Tower (added later - above the Red Ledge). Edit: apparently, I've been confused along with a bunch of others. The gully is apparently Dirty Deed Chimney. Thanks, Dave, for the clarification from Steve Levin's excellent guidebook.
Sep 8, 2010
- Doub-Griffith
Beautiful climbing on the best of Eldo rock! Amendment to the description: better approach logistics is to actually hike all the way up to Vertigo ledge and do the short (10 ft) downclimb (4th class or 5.0) that drops you right at the "island ledge." Doable unroped, and easy to rope up for this short section too. Then you can have your packs and shoes waiting for you on Vertigo ledge when you rap off. Much smoother than climbing all the way up over the Lower Ramp and soloing 5th class moves to the base. The downclimb from Vertigo ledge is much easier than the traverse from Grand Giraffe ledge. Stellar climb w/ protection in all the right places. The run-outs weren't bad and all on positive holds.
May 21, 2016
A new 12a direct finish has been added to the Doub-Griffith per Park, ACE, and public review & approval in early 2014. From the last bolt on the DG (at the base of the final 5.10 headwall), look up and left for 2 bolts. It's pretty obvious - climb the hanging arete that forms the summit of the Vertigo tower. Cool position and well-protected 5.12 climbing. The climbing to the first new bolt is about 10+. There is an optional, yellow Alien-sized placement before you start traversing left toward the first bolt. The climbing gets progressively harder, with the crux just past the second new bolt. After pulling the crux, there is a good #2 Camalot placement in a pocket that will provide a directional for the second after they clean the last bolt. The climbing eases quickly toward the summit of the Vertigo tower. It's really nice to have a large sewn runner or cordalette (>6' diameter) to loop around the top of the tower for an anchor / directional. Belay in the normal DG / Super Slab belay spot below the summit of the tower. Optionally, you could also get good hand sized cams down behind the summit of the tower in the Vertigo crack, but you'd need a lot of long runners to reach back over the tower. FA: Scott Bennett, April 18, 2014.
Apr 28, 2014
Combined 1&2 nicely with a single rack, didn't find a need for RPs, pro to BD #1. Stellar climbing. 5.11 Arete tour of Redgarden: Suparete - bolts and single rack, Doub-Griffith - bolts and single rack, Naked Edge - pro to 2". Such a good afternoon!
Feb 6, 2017
Wasps on P1! Did this today. There is a small wasp nest on p1, about 8 feet after pulling the roof. I was nearly through the balancy roof moves and was pretty happy to see a left sidepull that looked like it would be a positive hold to relax on. I noticed it had a bit of a finger pocket deeper in it, so I wiggled my fingers in deeper for more purchase and immediately felt wings buzzing against them. Luckily I was seconding, so I just jumped off. 3-4 wasps flew out and spent a few minutes dive bombing the rock and generally looking pissed off, before flying off. With rope stretch, I fell about 6 feet below them, and they didn't seem to notice me. Subsequent visual inspection showed a small nest in the back of the seam. It appeared to be abandoned (after they flew out), and after a few falls trying to do the move without using that hold, I sucked it up and stuck my fingers back in there. Fortunately they let my partner pass without reacting at all, he told me he didn't burrow his fingers into the pocket the way I did, so they apparently tolerated him being right over the nest. Just a heads up, since encountering these guys could lead to more "exciting" times on lead.
Sep 3, 2016
Just when I didn't think this route could get any better, someone goes and does something awesome like bolting the airy direct finish! Thanks for the fine addition, boys!
Mar 1, 2016
Sophia and I did this today with the Dubious Graffiti variation. Incredible climbing! On the third pitch, we followed the natural weakness which led about 5 feet right of the 4th bolt. It seemed pretty difficult to traverse back over, so I would recommend stepping left to the arete after the 3rd bold. I'll have to go back soon to charge the arete.
Sep 4, 2015
I see the 2013 comment on the runout between the first and third bolts on the third pitch. You bet! Consider (from my armchair, I am considering) that on the FA the first bolt was AT THE CRUX. The current first bolt wasn't even there; as a teenager with the motto for leading of "Don't ever let the belayer get bored!" I simply ran it out from the Super Slab belay to the crux. Why would you need any pro for a 5.8 slab? Nowadays that sure seems like 5.10... and I recall Lidija Painkijer (the Painkiller, or the Pocket Russian) leading out from the belay, before someone retro-bolted the current first bolt, and crying out more than once, "Thees iz no five eeeiiight!" She was right. It's great to see the enjoyment this route has brought through the years.
Feb 26, 2014
There is a 25 foot runout between bolts 1 and 2 on the third pitch. Not particularly hard (5.9ish) but very scary. I vote for an R rating since a fall trying to clip the second bolt would be ugly.
Mar 30, 2013
AMAZING...Go do it! I also will say the Dubious Graffiti is the way to go. You can combine the pitches into one awesome pitch with quite a bit of 5.11. Had a bit of rope to spare with a 60m. Don't need to much of a rack. RPs and TCUs.
Apr 28, 2012
But that ain't the DG. Let's rope up up. Edit too add, BURLY!
Mar 19, 2010
Followed Bob up the upper 2 pitches of the Doub yesterday while wind was picking up with the storm blowing in. It was spectacular! Mental note: thin, balancy climbing on that arete with 20 mph wind and worse gusts is heady. Props to Bob for leading this thing flawlessly in some adverse conditions! On another note, we did the Ruper start to Roll Over Rover and you can traverse hard left and work your way back to the arete and finish up the last two pitches of the Doub... but you will be crossing straight over Grand Giraffe and Art's Spar, so maybe not the best linkup for a weekend day. What a route!
Mar 19, 2010
Scott, nice job and what a great day to be up there. Yall' did "Bob's Astroman of Eldo", did you guys really think the Mellow Yellow part of the link up was still 5.11 tho? That would be proud!
Mar 2, 2009
Great route, with a bunch of cool possibilities for fun link-ups. We did Bob's "Astroman of Eldo" link-up of Superarete->DG->Mellow Yellow. 5 consecutive pitches of quality 5.11! I do agree with one of the above comments about the "3rd" pitch (it's easy to combine p1&2 and do the whole route in 2 pitches). On the last pitch, if one follows the line of least resistance at the 3rd bolt, it will take you up and right all the way to Super slab. I went this way, placing 2 small cams, and ended up about even with the 4th bolt and unable to traverse back "on-route". I ended up traversing back a bit higher and rejoining DG at its 5th bolt. I think this variation avoids the 11c crux of the pitch, making it more like 11a/b. So I guess this means that the crux of DG is a bit contrived, but it looked good so I'll have to try to go the true way next time. -Scott
Mar 2, 2009
wcurudy - it most definitely is. Really unfortunate, as it is a cool route.
May 16, 2008
Does anybody know if this loose flake was involved in the recent accident? I believe it was this route... thedenverchannel.com/news/1… rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo…
Apr 30, 2008
Just FYI; There is a 5.10'ish rising traverse that starts from the first bolt on the third pitch and joins Super Slab as it turns the roof.
May 18, 2007
As a matter of fact, we passed Eric on the way out yesterday after climbing DG. Cool
Apr 2, 2007
For what it's worth, Eric Doub is still in the Boulder area. His north Boulder home is "net-zero" energy and rated the most energy efficient home in the state of Colorado.
Apr 1, 2007
No question about it. This is one of the best climbs around. Spectacular from start to finish! The last pitch is truly amazing. Great movement and position with just enough spice to get your pulse racing. I could climb this route everyday for a month and never get bored. Awesome day Guy!
Apr 1, 2007
I think this is definitely one of the best and one of my favorite routes in Eldo!! Classic!!! I have always called combining Super Arete and this route with Mellow Yellow and with the 12 finish out the old A4 seam right of the normal finish on Mellow Yellow. The Astro Man of Eldorado... What a line and lots of great continuous climbing the whole way.
May 24, 2006
At the 3rd bolt on the final pitch, you can follow a natural weakness about 3ft to the right of the bolt line. The smallest ball nuts and a green Alien will protect this section. You can then traverse back to the 4th bolt (which is at your feet) and continue with the regular line. It would difficult to clip the 4th bolt, so place gear instead.
Mar 6, 2006
IMHO, the best route in Eldo! Spectacular position and exposure, and plenty of variety make this one wild ride. Although there is plenty of spice throughout, the harder portions are all well protected and I think the "s" would pertain to only 5.9 or perhaps up to 10b sections. If you can climb 11b or c, I don't think the serious rating would be a problem. Also, unless you are way honed, a good solid warm up is highly recommended since the first pitch may present a flash pump challenge otherwise. Very nice route description and I strongly concur with the Psycho Pigeon continuation!
Jul 1, 2005
If, after the short first pitch, your intent is to climb Dubious Graffiti, it is best to forego the belay on the small ledge above the roof and continue to the good ledge system at the base of the final pitch. The extended pitch is about 150' of fabulous climbing with many 11 crux sections.
May 30, 2005
There's a pretty good beta photo under Mickey Mouse Nailup that shows the upper 2 pitches Doub Griffith/Dubious Graffiti very clearly--it more or less falls the sun/shadow line on the right side of the photo.
May 29, 2005
The third pitch is my favorite Eldo pitch of all time.
Sep 15, 2004
I agree with Jason: the left option through the roof after the 1st pitch crux is more in keeping with the character of the climb (i.e. avoiding the belay at the top of Super Slab pitch 1). Better yet, instead of setting a belay after pulling the roof, continue up past the bolt protecting the next 5.11 section on the arete. Once past this section conitnue up to a good belay ledge, which is actually the top of pitch 2 of Super Slab. There may be a bit of rope drag if you started the climb from the base of Super Slab... this can be remedied by moving the starting belay to the flat spot directly below the first pitch of D-G. Incredible climb! Best to warm up by climbing Suparete to the top of the lower ramp.
May 7, 2003
Instead of going right after the crux on Pitch 1, a nice alternative is to go slightly left, clip a bolt above the roof, pull the roof (maybe 11a) and belay on the small ledge just above. You also don't have to worry so much about the rope cutting over the arete on the next pitch if you go this way. It also makes for a more independant line.Great Route!
Jan 6, 2003
If you are doing the "Dubious Graffiti" middle pitch from top of pitch 1 Superslab, the bolt is clipped around the sharp arete on the left, and you climb on the right. If you fall the rope could get cut, but you'd have to be really unlucky.
Apr 29, 2002
I heard a rumor that if a climber fell in a particular spot on the 1st pitch that there was rope-cut potential over a sharp edge. Anyone care to confirm?
Apr 29, 2002
Not as long, but more consistently difficult than the Edge. Pound for pound, it is every bit as good. No crowds on this thing!!
Jan 11, 2002
I think this is one of the best route I have done in the canyon. I like it almost as much as The Naked Edge. I don't think it gets done nearly as much. Although it has been nearly five years since I have done the route I don't remember the first pitch being quite as hard as 11c. Steve is right on with the gear though, a couple of TCUs will give you all the malcomb you need on the finger crack first pitch.The last pitch is completely spectacular.
Nov 6, 2001
- E.L.100
Re degree of difficulty: I'd agree with Crusher that the 5.7 rating is a sandbag. I felt a real forearm pump on this one and was very happy finding a great hand jam that allowed my forearms to deflate a bit. Realistically graded by "modern standards" as a 5.8, or even 5.8+.
May 11, 2013
Did this climb yesterday to get to Smoke and Mirrors. I thought it was a great lead, a lot of fun climbing the tree. Stepping back onto stone is a lot of fun and fairly committing. The gear is bomber; however, the climbing is pretty stiff for 5.7 but is all there and it's a major jug haul.
Nov 4, 2012
This is a climb "out of the ordinary." Another Eldorado Classic.
Mar 19, 2011
The tree climbing adds a twist but when you get on the rock it is high quality. High angle jugging with some bomber jams tossed in. Kudos to the first ascentionists who found this. The 7 rating is old school. I agree with Crusher and Tony, more like 8+ if your standards are modern. I had never planned to do this because of the tree but my partner, Lenny Miller, did me a favor by putting it on the agenda. (It's also a good way to get to Smoke and Mirrors!)
May 10, 2010
Tony, I wouldn't recommend Rocky Raccoon to ANYone. What a mess! And as for EL100-- tons of fun. Do it once by bark and limb. After that, traverse in from the wall to the right (Body Tremors?) and access the upper part of EL100 from there. Give the poor tree a break...pardon the pun. I agree that it seemed about 8+. Great handcrack toward the top!
May 24, 2009
Ah ... thanks, Steve, for making me feel better. I wasn't trying to sandbag anyone - the book says 5.7 (not even a "+"), the route's been around for a while, and I figured I just missed the 5.7 moves somewhere along the way. OTOH, I thought I saw my partner that day wink when he said before I set off that the climb was "5.7d". This climb is definitely harder than other Eldo 5.7's I've done, and at least the way I went, it felt like at least 5.8+.
Dec 16, 2001
This is a fun climb, but the rating is hardly 5.7. My partner and I both thought it closer to 5.9. maybe 5.8+ is about right.
Dec 16, 2001
This is a great route, really fun climbing. The high step move on top of the tree is amazing. EL 100 stands for English Literature 100, a freshman intro. class. The people who did the first ascent were English professors at CU. Carpe Diem!
Oct 25, 2001
2-stars for weirdness. Certianly unique. The bark on the tree is chossy- use the big holds and skip the edging at the start. (*grin*). Definitely a sandbag at 5.7. 5.8 or 8+ if you go sharply right after the left-hand sidepull. Given the Tree-climbing nature of this climb, I suggest Rocky Racoon (5.9, tree+) as a logical way to reach the upper ramp. Rocky Racoon is between the first Pitch of Yellow Spur or Vertigo.
Oct 24, 2001
- Electric Aunt Jemima
A nice way to approach this climb (If you are up to it) is to start as for Ruper, but where Ruper climbs to the right after perhaps 20', you keep going straight up, near the arete and climb up to below the thin-crack pitch of Grand Giraffe, staying lower and left of that pitch to avoid drag and to cover new ground. After perhaps 30 meters, you reach the ledge from which you move left to climb the easy, wide pitch of Grand Giraffe to reach the belay below the OW. This can be done in under 60 meters if you don't wander your rope around too much with gear. The Electric Aunt Jemima pitch itself is a nice climb, but it is too short to be a stellar climb on its own. Linking up with other pitches makes it great. The crux has some so-so- holds pulling over the lip, but there is also one decent one above the jug, a solid wide pinch if you are strong enough to reach it and hold it, or even a thin hands jam (I have small hands, but couldn't fit, my 5'5' female partner got hers in.) The Electric Aunt Jemima pitch itself is a nice climb, but too short to be a stellar climb on its own. Linking up with other pitches makes it great. I think it is just a shave easier than Tagger, but certainly not 5.10a. I did the roof without TCUs or Aliens- I had the wide profile micro Camalots with me and I tried to place pro in the beginning of the roof. As a result, I about had my A$$ handed to me. I got pumped trying to shove in the little boogers into the wavy crack and ended up just giving up, pumped - and still went on empty handed. It occurs to me that shoving some tiny TCUs or maybe even better, some fat Ballnuts would be more ideal. Shove them in deep though, because the wire across the flakes edge may apply enough stress to break them out if they are shallow. It's also OK to skip the thin pro and go straight up to a little pod and plug a #2 Friend. My red Camalot would not fit, and a green was too small. You need a purple HB (2") or the like. You can still continue up to a HUGE jug/sidepull in the roof and set a great nut (#8-10 BD stopper is bomb proof) before doing the crux lip. You can even double-up in this placement and you'll be really well protected. It's bomber if you place it right, which is not hard to do- perfect bottle neck. (One week later): Just did it again. Pro: a #7 stopper just at the start of the traverse set horizontally behind a beefy flake, a Purple HB cam (2" flex-friend) up in the pod, and a #9 stopper in behind the roof jug. No danger necessary if you find these placements. Only the first of these will be tough to find. The key to pulling the roof easily is the left foot... I did not find that the first time and it was a lot easier with it.
Apr 21, 2003
This felt more like 10b, maybe even 10a to me. There are much harder 10c roofs/overhangs in Eldo in my opinion. But two disclaimers: *1) for 18 years I lived and climbed in the Gunks where roofs rule, and (2) I followed this pitch, although I don't think that's relevant. The gear is good and easy to place. There is no need for wires--there are good cams including a micro cam at the lip. The moves left and up are on big handholds with good footholds. These moves are easily reversible. The "roof" is only mildly overhanging, at least compared to Art's Spar. There is a huge bucket at the lip that is easy to get, a big foothold underneath that makes it easy to step over the lip. The crux for me was that above the bucket at the lip, the handholds are rounded, but not small. Once standing on the bucket at the lip, it's awkward standing up since the handholds are in the wrong place. To me this is a full grade easier than Grand Giraffe, but then there are no offwidths in the Gunks.
Jan 12, 2003
I apologize if it sounded like I was criticizing the whole rescue team (actually there were two teams). I watched as some of the members walked up the loose talus/scree to the west of [Redgarden Wall], not on the marked trail. I didn't understand why they did this, unless they were clearing a way to lower the sled down. Some of the members were very competent and impressively capable (I was impressed by the ability of the people who hiked up the East Slabs carrying the 600' rope, sled and what ever else). I was trying to stress the need for self rescue knowledge, that way you don't need to put more people's lives in danger and it makes for a more timely rescue.
Aug 6, 2002
I was in the canyon the whole time this rescue was going on, and I have to counter the slander above--the rescuers certainly "know where the Redgarden Wall trail is". Whether they were otherwise "too slow" or not is not my area of expertise, but my observations at the time were that 1) the injured party was calling for help, and had not initiated self-rescue on their own, and 2) due to their nature high on the cliff, the rescue team ascended the East Slabs of Redgarden, loaded with much rescue equipment, including a litter (I believe they were unsure of the exact nature of his injury) with the intent of rappelling down to the climber. I watched the rescuers on the East Slabs and they apparently know that complex route quite well.
Aug 6, 2002
On Friday Aug. 2, my friend Darren and I responded to two climbers (Mike and Hunter), one of which (Mike) fell from the crux of [Electric Aunt Jemima] and pulled a green Alien and impacted on the slabs causing a compound fracture to his left ankle. The piece that caught him was a red Camalot that must have been edge loaded because the cable was bent almost 90 degrees. I don't know where exactly he fell from in the roof, but be sure to get in good gear to prevent such an accident. Hopefully, since it rained this weekend the blood will wash off the rock soon. Hope Mike heals soon. Darren and I climbed up the first pitch of [Superslab] and continued up on easier ground to the belay stance under the [Grand Giraffe]. We met a guide who was guiding a client up [Ruper] and he gave us a first aid kit since we would get there first. Darren bandaged him up and we decided to lower him in order to save time. We were on the last lower to ground when the first rescuer showed up from above (they lowered him down with a 600 foot rope from the top of Redgarden). I was told we bought at least an hour off the rescue time. Just shows how important self rescue is. Be safe.
Aug 5, 2002
The first pitch of Rincon is 5.9.
Jul 12, 2002
I did lead this baby, and loved it. Was planning on finishing Grand Giraffe, but the lack of gear on my rack to protect the off-width sent me looking for options around the side and it wasn't tell later that we figured out what we'd climbed. Wires worked good for me following the crack up and back around to the left, but I stuck a cam in just above the lip. The hold there next to it was positive. Was psyched to see the climb now goes at 10d; I think old-school (Ament) ratings had it at 10a. Like the first pitch of Rincon, a helluva challenging 10a! Enjoy it...
Jul 10, 2002
I too followed the crux pitch. Looks deceiving but my partner got in some decent gear in the flakes (they at least held body weight, hint-hint). This pitch sneaks around to the right (from the fixed belay below the offwidth crack on G.G.) and basically takes the line of least resistance in the roof between the Grand Giraffe and Art's Spars' cruxes. Have at it!
Mar 5, 2002
An excellent route that scared the crap out of me as I managed to pull myself over the roof.
Jan 3, 2002
- Exhibit A
The bolts were replaced today.... It is ready for all contenders, middle to hard 5.13(?).
May 23, 2014
- Exit Stage Left
- Flashdance
- Fresh Garbage
Do this route last. I still had fun though.
Sep 21, 2014
- Grand Giraffe
Gear sandbag alert: I wish I had brought 2 5s + 6s with me, dealing with back cleaning and bumping was difficult, because they had to be placed way in the back. Big ups to anyone who did this back in the day without big gear, but holy shit that was scary, and I wish I brought more with me. A lot of the placements were in between a modern BD 5/6. There's apparently a fixed pin I missed in the crux, which would maybe make me want to have less gear, but I'm still gonna double up next time I do it.
4 days ago
60' pitch per guidebook; we placed 3 pieces of pro - old pin, #5 and #6 C4 Camalot. The small gear on the face is higher up and on the left, past the crux and the second hard section - might not be obvious on lead.
Mar 19, 2017
Finally got on this a couple weeks ago. Pretty sweet. Honestly, if you climb OWs, this is probably a 8+/9-. It was significantly easier than I expected. Hammer (8+) is quite a bit harder than this guy, I think. Note on gear: I led this with 1 #4. I brought up a 2nd one, but you can't place it anywhere above the crux. A #5 is definitely necessary if you want pro higher up (I kind of wish I had one). If you're solid on OW, the single #4 is probably enough if you don't mind running it out through some easier stuff.
Mar 21, 2016
I got my ass kicked on the off-width. I linked pitches 1-2 which was a ton of fun! There is a fixed piece of gear on pitch 1, so I think I only placed 2 of my own cams. Pitch 2 was a little tricky, and I found myself wandering between two crack systems to stay well-protected. These two pitches were so much fun and set me up to believe I was going to cruise the whole route. My friend led pitch 3, and I was set up at the base of the off-width. Getting through the first 10-15 feet was the hardest for me. I clipped the shitty pin and placed a #5 far back in the crack to back it up, then decided to try to get the #5 back and got all jammed up. I was trying to smear feet on the face, and I have horrible off-width technique. I ended up taking twice before asking my partner if he wanted to give it a go. In the end, my partner finished up the pitch, and I pulled on gear and limped my way to the top. I was discouraged, and we ended up going left at the top of the ramp and rapping. I have climbed a bunch of 5.10-5.11 pitches in Eldo and this one shut me down the hardest. As soon as I was on the ground, I knew I would be back with a little more skill and technique. Don't be discouraged. It is safe (definitely with a #5), but be ready for some full on fun!
Feb 12, 2016
Larry Hamilton's gear beta works well. Led this last year with a #10 hex and a couple quickdraws. I can't imagine a #3 C4 fitting better than the hex. I may have used a grey TCU at the top as a directional to keep the rope out of the crack.
Feb 1, 2016
Not the most experienced or confident offwidth climber, so I took a #4, #5, and #6 (Camalots), the #4 I placed instead of clipping the old pin, shuffled up a bit, placed the #6, then 3 feet higher placed the #5 in the back of the crack, and back cleaned the #6 (thinking I might need it again), I placed it another few feet above the 5 just because.... This sewed up the offwidth. If I were to go back, I would just take the #4 and the #5, or the #4 and the #6 (just below the bulge). Either protects very, very, very well. Balls of steel to climb this on old school, passive pro!
May 16, 2015
My gear/climbing beta for OW: #5 C4, pin (i.e, pin below crux, not lower pin right above or part of belay anchor), bump #5 above pin, do crux move and climb a ways, insert #6, bump #6 a time or two to final position at roof. Can supplement with blue and yellow Metolius Mastercam sizes in flake below the roof. Apparently there is red Alien size to L of roof, but I didn't see it.
Oct 6, 2014
P1 is 5.9 for more than a short section. Felt pretty sustained to me, with at least two and maybe three distinct 5.9 cruxes. P3 is...hard. P4 and P5 can be run together in a very long pitch. If you are comfortable simulclimbing a bit, it works with a 60 meter rope. We stayed left and ascended a chimney-like feature with a few old funky pitons. This is a wonderful pitch! A bucket-fest dessert after eating your offwidth veggies.
Jul 24, 2014
The cam has been cleaned. It was an old, rigid stem #2.5 Friend.
Jun 9, 2014
You may be able to booty a cam (clean up litter) if you drag a coat hanger up to the offwidth crux. There appears to be a hand-sized Friend laying uncammed in the back of the 5-6 inch crack. It's probably 4 feet beyond arm's reach.
Mar 14, 2014
The FFA was done by John Thomas (physics student at UW in Laramie.), sometime around 1962-63. I was still in the Army when it was done. When I climbed it ~ 1966, it still had an awesome reputation for being the ultimate "hard man" climb in Eldorado Canyon.
Apr 18, 2013
That offwidth pitch is tough! I brought a number 5 C4, and I wish that I had brought two. I placed one at the low crux, and then I had to climb back down and get it so that I could use it again to place it for the upper crux. The upper crux is definitely easier, but it's fairly run out above a good #3 Camalot that I placed way back in the crack. There is a fixed knifeblade to protect the lower crux and a yellow Alien in an expanding flake that kinda protects the upper crux, but I was happy to have the #5 C4 to back up these dubious pieces. I can see how people can do this pitch with only #3s, but I would recommend two large cams unless you're feeling especially lucky.
Apr 7, 2013
Did the route a couple of days ago and here's what I think: Combine first two pitches, kinda awkward but not the crux of the route for me. I only ended using one #5 on the width pitch, you can just keep bumping it up and be fine. Walk far enough back and belay off the tree. So bring a #5 and a long sling and go! Nice to finish with Italian Arete.
May 3, 2012
One of the sweetest link-ups I've done to date: Grand Giraffe to Italian Arete to Smoke and Mirrors. Just plain AWESOME.
Nov 27, 2010
Yeah, I am not a good climber but a happy and grateful climber! I was soo happy to be off to climb GG!! The offwidth section I followed!! [Like most pitches I climb!!] This was verry hard and I'm worse on sport 10s then classic 10s, I think!! The entire route was great!! The offwidth does demand respect!! Unless 5.12 face is a good redpoint for you!! Still a worthy and legendary route!! Thank you climbing Patriarch Jim Logan for your comments!!! They inspired me to say this precautionary tale! Aspiring Eldo 5.10 leaders this is 5.10!!
Sep 10, 2009
Went up to do this route on the 3rd. Anyone who says you don't need a 5 or 6 for that matter is basically free soloing the whole off-width. I went up with 2 4s and could not find spots for them and was looking at free soloing the whole off-width. I declined and went and cruised Art's Spar which in retrospect is a lot better climb anyways. I will go back up there but not without a #5.
Jul 6, 2009
You can get good C3/Alien placements out left at the little roof at the end of the OW pitch.
May 1, 2009
The absolute best pro is the old Chouinard 6" tube chock. The taper matches the crack exactly.
Apr 12, 2009
An old style #5 Camalot works great, and a C4 #5 works ok.
Apr 12, 2009
I brought only a #4 for the OW, and I still had it on my harness when I finished the pitch! You're better off bringing a #6 cam and walking that up; since a #4 Camalot doesn't fit anywhere above the (good) pin. Great route!
Oct 20, 2008
A #3 Big Bro will protect the crux and a #2 Big Bro will protect the moves through the bulge. The best metal courage would be a #6 FR or C4. This is a spectacular wide line, which is really all you knee to know about the crux moves.
Mar 2, 2008
This was one of my first 5.9s (in the 70s), boy did I feel like a hack, OW kicked my ass. At the time it felt like my first Eldo adventure.
Feb 28, 2008
Jim, Thanks for sharing some important history about this route. That is part of what makes this site so unique. It's essential to know this kind of history to grasp the roots and spirit of climbing.
Feb 25, 2008
Great route, and easier than I was expecting. I did much more chimneying than using pure offwidth technique. Gear beta: a green Big Bro fits well in the wide section.
Nov 10, 2007
Was able to link the first two pitches described here (First three guidebook pitches) into one, stopping just shy of the normal belay ledge. This was with a 70 m rope, which is long enough to make it to the regular belay (a 60 m might work?). Plenty of runners help, although I ended up with a fair amount of rope drag on easier climbing.
Mar 23, 2007
I felt the 5.9 pitch was harder than the offwidth pitch. The offwidth looks intimidating from below, but it is really only hard for the first couple feet off the belay. I was expecting something longer and more sustained.
Oct 16, 2006
Don't overlook upper Grand Giraffe above the Upper Ramp. The climbing is much easier but very fun, and the routefinding is complicated with funky gear. The rock is solid although covered with lichen. Also, on the last pitch it is really nice to climb up and right out of the belay in a dihedral that is much harder looking than it is, instead of up and left according to the route description. Above is one of the nicest easy pitches on hueco jugs imaginable.
Sep 4, 2006
Anyone that just brings a #3 Camalot is on the wrong route or crazy! After you clip the pin you can place a #5 Camalot that works well but a bit tipped-out. You can walk this up the entire route to the top. A big green Friend would also work well here.
May 30, 2006
I would bring more than a #3 Camalot for the crux pitch if you're a 5.10 leader such as myself. I backed up the piton with a #4 Camalot (old one) which was a hindrance because I had trouble squeezing into the 'crack'. I managed, though, probably because of my guttoral screams while getting through the crux.
May 15, 2006
Did this the other day and thought it was great. I approached this thinking that the OW was going to a desperate grunt, but found it to be quite good. One thing to keep in mind with the GG is that the crux is very short. Overall, a stellar climb and well worth doing. I would recommend a #4.5 Camalot instead of a #5 and a #3 works well five feet or so below the roof. As for it not being popular (as described in the intro), I started this at 11:30 am and was the third group on it.
Sep 26, 2005
In reply to the coward. Yes you can use a bigbro, I think it was the blue, but it may have been green. I didn't lead it, or cleanly second it, (it is "harder than Pete") but in desperation and humiliation, I grabbed the big bro and used it like a big old ladder handle. It worked well for then, and now that I am a little better I will say that it is actually good to use a big bro if you are going to bring someone that isn't good with offwidth. What the leader of my party did was had a big bro, and then the old number 5 BD cam, and bumped them up so he didn't have to carry too many pieces. It worked well, and you can protect the whole OW with 2 pieces if you bump them.
Aug 22, 2005
In 1968 the Grand Giraffe was rated 5.8 and I climbed it with Pat Ament and Royal Robbins. Royal announced that we were going to take no pitons and use only chockstones that he had brought back from England. This was to be the first time nuts were used in Colorado. After thinking over the fixed pins already in place, I thought it would be OK and joined them. We never protected the 5.8 offwidth at that time and it turned out to be Royal's lead. He stopped in the middle of the crux, turned around and looked down at us, and said " this is the hardest 5.8 I have ever done." He then turned back around and finished with no problem. I believe the gear we had were mostly Pecks and Moacs as stoppers and hexes were far in the future.
Jul 20, 2005
Has anyone used BigBro's to protect the OW crack? If so, what size? I am guessing they may get in the way while climbing, or the crack might flare too much. They would be easier to carry than large cams.
Apr 18, 2005
The 1970s gear beta for the crux pitch, back when this was a classic 5.8, was to trust the pin (and don't fall) for the first crux, then bring along one #10 hex for the upper part -- where it slotted in place "like a key in a lock." No worries about that walking out.
Nov 20, 2004
Not bad, but not my favorite Eldo route. Even though I am a Vedauwoo offwidth fan I would recommend saving this one for later. If you want the beta on pro, the above comments are terrific!
Jun 12, 2004
PS: This is a good choice in the morning in the summer. We were in the shade nearly the whole day.
May 23, 2004
We did Grand Giraffe's first three pitches to Body Tremors to Smoke and Mirrors. This combo makes for a stellar day. P1. 5.9 - There is a parallel crack just to the left of the upper part of this crack. I stayed in the crack on the right, but using the other crack might make it a bit easier. I really enjoyed this pitch. P2. 5.6 (5.4 according to Rossiter) - this must've been the toughest 5.4 I've ever done. More like 5.6. P3. 5.10a - my partner, Mike Flanagan, led this with a #3 & #3.5 Camalot. He fit the #3.5 below the pin for a decent (although not ideal) placement. He used the #3 higher in the constriction. It did not walk (though could have). Look for high footholds out on the right face as you move through the crux. At the roof, a blue Alien fits decently. P4. 5.8s - Body Tremors. P5. 5.10a - Smoke & Mirrors.
May 23, 2004
Great route. I thought the best pitch was actually the 5.9 left angling crack pitch (that breaks off from the Rover dihedral), though it's all excellent. The upper pitches are fun and also make a good alternative to upper-Ruper if crowded. The crux was desperate for me and I was glad to have a #4 and #4.5. No Grand Giraffe onsight for me... Dang-it!
Jul 16, 2003
Bring one #4.5 Camalot, or like size. You don't need anything else other than a #4.5 for the crux to back up the pin. Nothing bigger than a Tech Friend #3.5 or Camalot #3 is needed for the other pitches. Double TCUs and stoppers are ideal. Be wary of the expando flake below the first pins on pitch 2. This is a seriously huge chunk of rock fixing to go -- tread lightly through this section!
Jun 27, 2003
I recommend placing some gear right away, then run it out of you like. Or, place a big cam, whatever. Just don't trust that pin, it is old and awkwardly driven. No telling how good it is. Beautiful route. Have Fun!
May 12, 2003
I would not head up to onsight this pitch without a #5 Camalot unless you are very comfortable in offwidths. It is conceivable that once you know the moves, rests, etc. you could do it comfortably without it, but (for me anyway) it is a daunting and awkward climb and having the #5 to essentially keep you on TR is reassuring. The pin comes just before the crux OW moves, and does seem solid. The #4 goes in a little below it, just in case. A few moves/grunts into the crux you can get the #5 in over your head and bump it along with you all the way to the bulge 20' above. If you are tall like me, you can also get a #4.5 deep in the crack a few feet above the pin, as you move into the crux. All told, singles of the #4, #4.5, and #5 make this pitch as comfortable as OW can be. This route is fantastic and should not be avoided because of the OW. The lower pitches are great, the exposure is thrilling, and the OW is not that bad (I actually really enjoyed it).
Apr 21, 2003
The smallest Alien (.33) will also fit perfectly in the crack at the roof in lieu of the #3 Ballnut listed in a previous comment. Otherwise, it is nice to have a #4 and #4.5 Camalot.
Feb 1, 2003
I think I'm comfortable doing this pitch without any offwidth gear because I place a #3 Ballnut where you exit the crack and move onto the face. I've fallen out of the crux a few times (onto the pin) and still don't ever take a #4 Camalot when I do this route knowing full well that I will probably fall off of it again. It is all a matter of person comfort level. A #4 or #4.5 would definitely make it feel safer, I wonder what Layton Kor used on the FA in 1960?????
Jun 22, 2002
I think a #3 Camalot is plenty for the crux of this route, the pin offers good pro and then there is a good spot for the #3 about six or seven feet above. If I had brought a #4, I don't think I would have even used it and I suck at offwidth...
Jan 13, 2002
Starting with Slimy Spoon to the Lower Ramp and then the Grand Giraffe to the Upper then Body Tremors to Smoke and Mirrors makes for a great yet moderate link up with a huge variety of climbing from juggy face to fingers to offwidth.
Nov 19, 2001
I should point out that the first pitch as I describe it is often split into two pitches (this is the way Rossiter describes it). Eldo hard men will also lead this route with nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot. If you are solid at this grade and willing to run it out a bit you really don't have to bring any large gear.
Aug 8, 2001
- Grand Giraffe Slot Variation
- Icarus
Climbed this route twice in the past two weeks. First time I had some trouble routefinding, particularly finding the traverse on P2. Second time I got it just right. Here's what do to: Climb the dihedral until it fades out into the face. A short distance above this point, there is a 3"-4" horizontal hold/ledge feature with a bunch of quartz pebbles embedded into it. Climb up until your feet are on that ledge, then traverse right to the arête. The traverse is a ways above gear, but the moves are no harder than 5.4. Once on the arête, you can get a good piece. A spectacular route and a mind-blowing experience for a moderate climber looking to get way off the ground.
Jun 5, 2014
Just to add my 2 cents: Chris and I climbed Icarus on Sept. 7. We did pitch 2 (per the Levin guidebook) direct, and I found it to be amply protected, albeit with small pieces (black Alien, medium ball nut, & RP) in the first 20 feet. I echo caution with the large (30#) block 3/4 of the way up the pitch. It's possible to move around it. All in all, this was a phenomenal route!
Sep 12, 2017
LOST ROPE - had to bail off of the Apple Strudel rappel (between Rewritten and Yellow Spur) last night, as I managed to get my rope caught while pulling it. If anyone recovers my blue Mammut rope, please contact me at (207)450-7212. Cheers, James
Oct 20, 2016
A great climb for a solid 5.6 climber. Some of the best position in the canyon on the last pitch.
Feb 2, 2016
This was my first multi-pitch climb ever, and we did it yesterday. I cleaned the route, and overall, I had a blast. I climbed a few other routes afterwards that I enjoyed, but the different pitches on this one afforded a great variety. It was well below my skill-level, so it was a great opportunity to get used to cleaning gear and communicating with a leader out of sight. That last pitch, like a lot of these comments point out, is stellar, from an aesthetic perspective. If you are taking some friends that have some experience (not very much at all is necessary, as long as they are in decent shape) but haven't done any long climbs, I can recommend this one, for sure. Very rewarding for its grade. The approach is a bit more of a hike than a lot of the routes in Eldo, and the descent is quite a bit of a scramble but also presents an opportunity to teach some other alpine skills, which is great if you want to work on some of those class 4 safety skills. Two fun rappels at the end.
Aug 1, 2015
Like a lot of folks here, I went straight up after the dihedral ends and belayed at the tree ledge then traversed right to the arete and up. I'm wondering what the bolt is on the face left of the arete on the last pitch?
Jun 28, 2015
This is a great route. Not sure I'd put a new(ish) 5.6 leader on it, though. There's the runout last pitch, which has been mentioned, and the traverse at the end of the dihedral on the second pitch is a bit thin with the potential for a pendulum fall that could be jarring.
Jun 1, 2013
Agree with those comments that this is by no means a "beginner lead". The protection is sparse at best, the route is not heavily traveled and therefore has quite a few loose blocks, and even the 2nd could take an interesting swinging fall as much of the climb is a rising traverse. That said, it is beautiful, exposed, enjoyable climbing - if you know what you are getting into.
May 22, 2013
Climbed this yesterday for the first time. Couple of notes: If you have a 70m rope, you can reach the base of the climb by climbing West Chimney and trending right to the Red Ledge. There's actually some fun moves in there. From the ledge, you can get a small cam and place a long runner and make it to the small tree at the base of Icarus. I recommend one of those pulley carabiners if you do this. I wish I had one. This is a nice way to protect your second on the ledge if you find this necessary. From there, you can climb as described up to the first belay. I never actually made this belay but headed right to the arete for some exciting exposure. The gear here is sparce, PG, and small. I placed one RP and two smaller cams while I wound my way up the arete. About where you connect with the original route is an excellent belay stance, with a large cam placement and a few nuts. This hanging belay has a small but adequate ledge. With my 70m, I had 20 feet of rope left. I felt this extra section of arete lent itself to a 5.7 PG rating. I will have to try the other way sometime to see if it goes easier. With this "intermediate" belay, a short 35m pitch will get you to the summit. The rope drag at the crux was quite noticeable, but I could have used a longer runner on at least one of my placements.
May 11, 2012
Went up the West Chimney and did Icarus in 3 pitches from Red Ledge. P2 was belayed 110' up in a real crappy position about 20' below the end of the irregular, right-facing corner. P2 was directly up the face after the end of the corner and runout for about 20 feet. P3 belayed from the moderate-sized tree and ledge. The final pitch was very runout. I got a #2 TCU and a large nut in the crack at the end of the ledge traverse right to the arete and a #3 Friend on the arete just short of the summit. Ridiculous exposure. Phenomenal climb.
Sep 7, 2011
When starting this route with the first pitch of Rewritten (which is great), you can traverse up and left past the usual first belay and make it to a tree in the gully in one pitch from the ground. From there, you can easily walk unroped up the gully and right across the Red Ledge to the start of Icarus. On the decent from the notch, rappel ~28m to a tree on one rope, then make a double rope rappel to the last ledge (below the Red Ledge) with a big fat tree, then one more double rope rappel to the ground. The big tree on the last ledge is far back from the ledge, so to make the pull easier, the final rappeller should stop on a small ledge and pull the knot past the edge before going all the way to the ground. The final pitch is spectacular. Airy, exposed, and runout, but secure holds all the way.
Aug 1, 2011
Fun climb, wild exposure on last pitch, this is not a beginner lead, with a possible for a 30 to 50 feet fall, if you blow it, the 5.6 lead for the 5.8 leader, no one should call a 5.6R a beginner lead route, WFT.
Mar 14, 2011
Yeah, I wouldn't suggest this one to a 5.6 leader, the pro just isn't there.
Apr 22, 2009
This was a fun climb on a blue bird day in January! Although the afternoon winds made it a bit more spicy on that last pitch! We did this in 4 pitches (started up the West Chimney). Route finding was very easy. Lots of loose rock in the chimney so needed to take it slow on the first pitch (and getting a #1 cam stuck didn't help. After breaking both trigger wires we left it for dead. HOWEVER... our new friends we rapped down with were able to get it out using 2 nut tools...thanks John!!). Spectacular exposure on P3 & 4. P4 only protects with 1 piece (used a red C3). So get ready for some runout. The traverse to the dirty deeds rap was fun. We kind of did a layback hand-over-hand traverse until we were able to get our feet on a ledge. 2 loose rocks at the rap slings, so be careful. We rap'd to the red ledge with 2 ropes (must be at least 60M to do in 1 rap). Then 1 rap from the red ledge to the base (again, 2 ropes, 60M). No issues with getting the rope stuck. Thanks Kirk & John for sharing the rap & your rope!
Jan 21, 2009
If you are climbing with a 70m rope, you can make it from the Dirty Deed Dihedral to the small tree at the top of the face (just before the traverse right) with ~3m to spare. We climbed the first pitch of the Great Zot, Icarus and then finished on the arete in 3 pitches. Nice!
Mar 1, 2008
Ament's 1975 Eldorado guide documents this as a variation to The Yellow Spur, first climbed by Bob Culp in the 1960s. According to Jim Erickson, this was (and one assumes, still is) one of Culp's favorite climbs in the canyon; indeed it was the first route Jim ever climbed with Culp, sometime around 1968 (personal communication).
Aug 26, 2007
Climbed this today. I disagree with those saying it's not so cool. It's awesome! Started with the West Chimney for P1, then a short traverse (more of a scramble then a climb) to Icarus. Two pitches on Icarus, not easy, some fun moves, but not real hard either. Final pitch, the Yellow Spur arete, is totally awesome - delightfully terrifying exposure and views. Getting down was a long downclimb, 4th or EZ 5th class, and I didn't like it. I would rather have sprouted eagle wings and just flown off the top .... I dispute the rating - I would give this a solid 5.7. But I haven't been climbing that long, so what do I know?
Aug 25, 2007
Nice route with great exposure.
Nov 6, 2006
Nice climb. A lot like Swanson's, but a bit harder. Two things to be aware of: First the first belay is not at all obvious or optimal. I kept going expecting the tree ledge I thought I remembered from the topo. 55 meters up, I was running out of gear and constructed a semi-hanging belay on a foot-sized ledge. Second, there are two extremely loose blocks on P2 (the runout section much-lamented above). These aren't your standard Eldo loose blocks; they look like they'd come out if you looked at them funny. Each was probably 50#. Definitely an accident waiting to happen. We thought about gardening them, but the rock was crowded, so it seemed like a bad idea. Anyway, nice climb though I chickened out on the last pitch in strong cross-winds.
Oct 29, 2006
I just climbed this again a bit late in the day on Saturday. I did what Rossiter refers to as variation B for the second to last pitch. Instead of moving to the right to the arete, you go straight up at 5s. The pro here is pretty poor. In some places, all I could find was a shallow microcam or a Loweball placement every 20-30ft., but the climbing is easy. We got to the ledge with the two trees around 6PM, so we escaped down to the Dirty Deed gully from there. A rap anchor with two quicklinks will assist you in reaching the second rap station on Dirty Deed and then it's one rap to the Red Ledge with a 60m. We got to our packs at the base by the time it got pretty dark.
Oct 9, 2005
I agree with Leo above, this is probably the best 5.6 climb in the Boulder area. It is way exposed, involves lots of interesting and varied climbing, a little bit of spice for the intermediate leader, and the position and views are excellent! For speed, you can do the route in two pitches with a 60-meter rope, going from the starting ledge to the end of the runout traverse discussed above, then to the summit on the second pitch.
Jul 13, 2005
I would have to agree with some of the other comments that it's the final pitch that makes this a great climb. The first two are good, but not stellar. We used a slightly different belay after the first pitch. Instead of belaying in the dihedral like the book shows (small pro), I traversed along the wide crack that leads to the arete and belayed at the end. It was interesting. There is an old fixed pin directly above the belay. On the second pitch, we climbed the face directly above the dihedreal. The pro is good, the climbing is fun, and it didn't seam that run out. Great route.
Jul 5, 2003
IMHO, this is a great route, in particular, for its difficulty rating. It is a great combination for a day with Swanson's for 6x60m pitches. Bit of spice for the 5.6 leader with a breeze on the last pitch. Wonderful exposure. It rivals Wind Ridge, Calypso (which feel tops in Eldo at 5.6) in quality of climbing and beats them in position. What else is better in the Front Range at 5.6?
Jun 4, 2003
I was a little less impressed by this climb than many of the other folks who commented above. After doing Swanson's Arete recently, which is truly a 3-star climb, I had high expectations for this one. I would say this climb is worth doing, only because it gives you an easy path to access the incredible last pitch of the Yellow Spur. Besides that, the bulk of the climb is less than inspiring. Icarus itself is a one star climb. It gets a bonus star for following the amazing last pitch of the Yellow Spur.
Jun 3, 2003
The Yellow Spur does not have an s because the runout pitch is significantly easier than the crux. This is a controversial aspect of ratings, but many feel that climbs shouldn't have an s rating unless the runout moves are within about 1 grade of the crux. Rossiter will sometimes give a split rating 10d (8 s) which indicates the 10d is reasonably protected but the climb also has runout moves that are only 5.8. He does not do this for the Yellow Spur but one could probably call it 9 (6 s).
Sep 3, 2002
You can easily protect the first half of the final arete finish. If this route is "s" because of the upper arete finish, why is not the Y. Spur also "s"? If runnout on the face above the dihedral ending is a worry, then as Warren states, go right about 8' to the start of a good crack which you can protect. This little traverse is exposed but the strata provides good foot placements.
Sep 3, 2002
This is a wonderful climb! Simplistic yet retains your interest. The route is easy to find and you can't beat the finish. Three stars in my book.
Sep 2, 2002
I wouldn't suggest taking a beginner leader or follower on this climb. The rock is loose in places and the gear is tricky (you have to be careful not to place gear behind potentially loose blocks). There is also usually a lot of people below the climb between Yellow Spur and Rewritten so extra care is required. I continued straight up the face after the dihedral which was easy but run out for 20 feet or so. Awesome climbing up an easy and exposed face. I belayed at a nice short tree and continued straight up the face from there. Excellent position on the climb. casey bernal
Jun 17, 2002
I agree with George, I remember traversing almost immediately after the end of the dihedral. There is some kind of strata making the traverse easier. I do not remember this being at all run out. The next pitch (joined with Yellow Spur) now that's run out!
Apr 11, 2002
I remember traversing right to the arete soon after the dihedral ended, this may make the runout less. Also, Tony Bubb's photo of this route must be tilted or something, it looks way harder than 5.6 in that photo!!
Apr 11, 2002
I thought that the second to last pitch was way more runout than any other - for some reason I did about twenty feet of face climbing above the end of the dihedral, and then a tough traverse to the arete. Is this off route, or am I just a big pussy?
Apr 10, 2002
The only thought is for the 5.6 climber, getting off the top is a bit exciting. I know my wife was non to thrilled downclimbing to the notch, but it was survivable. Great route though.
Jan 14, 2002
This route affords a less-skilled leader to access the incredible and exposed last pitch of The Yellow Spur without having to climb anything harder than 5.6. A great multipitch route to take less skilled climbers on (not quite for those who have never climbed though - it is quite exposed and the final pitch has a little fall potential for the second). I recall one uncomfortable belay, but a fine compromise for the stellar exposure!
Aug 1, 2001
Most aesthetic way to start this route is from the first 3 pitches of the Yellow Spur, but this considerably harder than Icarus (5.9). You can traverse right to the arete in several places, but the arete is 5.8ish and unprotected. Rapping the gully between Lumpe Tower and T1 is to be avoided. The last rap (from a big tree) is 48m and it took us 20 mins to get our rope down (knot snags going over the edge).
Jun 7, 2001
- Ignition
Did Ignition a couple days ago, probably had been 4-5 years. Heads up with the big, downward pointing flake between the last two bolts - it's WAY more expando with a nice vibrato than it used to be. I would no longer recommend putting ANY cam or nut in either side of it and only pull down, not out! Just sayin'! Just left of the bottom of the flake is a so-so horizontal med. nut placement but...just don't fall before the last bolt and tread lightly.
Sep 29, 2014
One of my favorite sport climbs in Eldorado. I was the person who put the anchor at the end of this pitch and placed what is now the 6th bolt in 1989. The anchor was not the last bolt as stated in the description. At the time, I was thinking I might be doing a first ascent, but it turned out Dan Hare had already climbed the route continuing up the crack above the anchor. The last (now 7th bolt) was already there along with a fixed stopper below it, but I thought maybe this is where "The Untouchables" finished. I first led the 5.10 run-out off gear but was very concerned that a fall would break the flake the medium stopper was behind. Charlie Fowler established the first 4 bolts (crux) of the route in 1987 but finished by traversing right to finish up the first pitch of the "Yellow Spur". I also replaced the anchor & several of the bolts in the late 1990s with Rick Leitner. The remaining 4th & last bolts have since been replaced by someone else. The 1st bolt is still an original bolt & seem quite safe. I place #6 & 7 stoppers in the same vertical slot 6 feet below the last bolt. This climb would be terrifying without placing gear here. I think this climb definitely deserves a 5.12a rating. Compare it to so many other Front Range climbs of this grade. The crux at 2nd bolt is technical & thin. Then the climb is sustained & pumpy all the way to the anchor. Lastly, the climb's 2nd pitch (5.10+ trad) is rarely done.
Dec 5, 2013
Correction per stealth bolting: I put in the fifth bolt after permission was voted upon and granted by the bolt-committee. Our reason to add a bolt was that we had (painfully) proven the trad pro was not really good. Ric Leitner had blown the large steel-nut placement, above the fourth bolt, with a resulting fall that landed him in the tree, mostly undamaged. The blown-nut scar is still visible in the lie-back section, close to the new bolt.
Oct 28, 2008
Great route. I agree that it doesn't deserve the seriousness rating. The crux is a 2 move boulder problem passing the second bolt that is difficult to decipher. 12a onsight, 11d if you know what to do.
Mar 15, 2004
Certainly not 's'. 7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Probably not a move of 12a, but the first 4 bolts felt pretty sustained for only 11+. After the sixth bolt, it is a quite a ways to the last bolt, but it is largely on jugs...just keep moving, a fall here would be big. Before the last bolt (8 feet below), however, is a good 0.75 Camalot on the left side of the flake. The 10ish move above the last bolt can be climbed straight through with long reaches to crimps and powerful lock-off on the jug. Excellent route on perfect stone. Great movement.
Sep 15, 2003
- Italian Arete
Fun route. Run out didn't seem too bad, although I didn't lead it. I lead the second half of the route. Make sure you are confident with your ring locks (two really good ones pulling halfway roof) and hand jams. The second roof is followed by about 3 to 4 moves of solid jams!!!!!! Did this in a linkup with Giant Giraffe. As far as the runout...it seemed 5.6 to me. Really wasn't that bad.
May 2, 2012
As of June 21, 2008, the bird crap is no big deal and is totally avoidable.
Jun 24, 2008
To do it in one long pitch you need about 7 draws, 12 runners and 2 double runners. If not, welcome to rope drag Meca. To minimize ground fall potential, near the bottom I began in a good crack for about 25' placed a #0.5 Camalot, made the easy, but tricky traverse right to the other crack, placed another small cam then traversed back left to clean the first cam. This eliminated any ground fall potential and by back cleaning minimized rope drag.
Apr 7, 2008
I climbed this today and found it to be a really good route. I had stayed away from it for a long time due to the "R" rating. It is somewhat runout at the start but after that the gear is "good", although spaced out somewhat. Both my partner and I agree that the 5.9 pitch was one of the easier 9s that we have done in the canyon. There are two fixed nuts below the crux roof.
Mar 10, 2008
We climbed this as one long pitch, and it was quite a surprise gem! Bird poop was at a minimum (05/07). To substantiate earlier comment, make sure and extend ALL slings...it's run-out anyway; what's another 12 inches?
Jun 16, 2007
A good route (a minor classic) with reasonable pro where you need it. As others have said, the first 30' is definitely runout, but easy.
May 17, 2007
We started this route to the right of the line in the beta photo so, the lowest roof on the right in that pic, was our first obstacle. The climbing was great!! I agree that the runout parts are more 5.8 but man, they seemed pretty run-out to me.
Jun 2, 2006
Still a section of bird crap on the second pitch- But it was avoidable, so I avoided it. Still there is so much down in the crack there that you will want to face-climb around it and also so much that placing gear is problematic for a body length unless you intend to shovel the crack out first. There was one fixed HB offset in the doo-doo that you could clip for easy pro, but it was hard to inspect, it was so buried. The 'R' parts seemed no harder than 5.8. The 5.9 sections had gear within a body length. Gets a prize for the steepest positive holkds around for 5.9... tied with "Futile Laments" on Wind Tower.
Apr 11, 2006
A steep, exposed, and exciting route. Start just right of Chockstone Chimney. The initial slab can be protected with a pink tricam down low and a medium hex or cam at the top. Use long runners to keep down rope drag. Exquisite climbing up a steep flake leads to an airy roof. This pitch is a three-star Eldo classic. The wide section starting the second pitch is well-protected with a #3 Camalot. No offwidth moves are needed as it can be climbed on the outside. There is some bird poop up higher, just below the crux roof, but most of it can be avoided. From the top, an easy scramble leads to the top of Chockstone Chimney. From here, continue up on Smoke and Mirrors or rappel 100' back to the start.
Sep 29, 2004
Great route, a bit runout down low, reasonable pro beyond.
Sep 29, 2004
Although the route draw a 5.9 s rating, there are numerous opportunities to place good protection in reasonably solid rock. Be aware that some of the appealing placements might be rotten, loose, or slightly decomposed. But, most of the climbing is steep, and circuitous with good feet and jamming through out. Be aware of the rope getting in the crack going over the bulge on the first pitch. There is potential for a fiasco here. Some folks might want a fatty cam for the upper bulge on the second pitch, but all said most folks will probably be content leaving the heavy hardware at home. The position of this route is awesome, even with a little bird shit on the back of the hand!
Jun 27, 2003
What a great line-especially the first half. Steep, nice moves, really great stuff. A few comments. You would need a lot of slings to run this as one long pitch.I put a sling on every piece, but I still had some drag belaying between the roofs. If I guy could find a way to keep the rope from rolling into the finger crack through the roof it would help, but still, it would be tough. We broke it in two pitches shown in the Rossiter guide and it was fine. Also, add pitch two to the list of big time bird shit climbs in Eldo. This is the worst I've seen-my parter lead the second half, and I got crap all over my hands cleaning a cam at the crux. Mostly it was avoidable, but not all. Nasty stuff.
Sep 16, 2002
The final roof protects well with a #3 Camalot. Great line, good exposure, but bird crap and some loose rock on the lower section makes the route a little less asthetic. Good Jams and underclings on the final roof as well as good pro on this part of the climb!
Jun 28, 2002
- King Cobra, The
- Magic Bus
Looks interesting. How solid are those flakes? Well attached and certain not to bury you if you fall onto a cam behind them?
Mar 28, 2010
This route was actually named Magic Bus initially and should be called that.
May 23, 2007
- Magic Carpet Ride
Probably a seldom done line as we found no chalk or signs of recent activity. The crux (i.e., at the third bolt not the second as written up above) is deceptive on sight, but is a real treat once cracked. Some poor rock in a few spots detracts from the overall quality (e.g., I pulled a hand sized under cling flake off at the start of the crux sending me for an unexpected ride). On my RP go I opted to skip the fourth bolt and just go directly to the fifth. The top has a nice stretch of unrelenting 5.10 climbing that keeps your attention.
Jan 16, 2010
- Magic Route
- Mellow Fellow
Second pin on second pitch is no longer there. It got pulled during a fall this morning. A decent RP can be placed near where it pulled, but be aware. Great route!
Jul 28, 2016
My favorite Eldo Link Up: First pitch of the Wisdom, 10d, to Scary Canary crux, 12b, to linking Le Toit, 10b - Plastic Jesus, 11-, up the ramp to the Mellow Fellow linking the 5.11d with the 11c, finish with the 5.12 boulder problem finish! Not to be missed! Sidebar: I took Honnold up here: he linked the entire Mellow Fellow into the Direct in a single 80 meter pitch, and he didn't seem to break a sweat, seriously amazing to watch.
Sep 15, 2012
The swing off of the pin isn't that bad. I've taken a few bombers on it! The belay above the roof still sucks a little though. I replaced most of it last fall, but it really leaves something to consider before you want to lead fall from the 11c pitch onto it.
May 27, 2005
Probably a little late, but there is a good fixed pin in the vertical seam going up to the roof that is bomber (would be a nasty swing if you came off above the roof). There is a fixed nut with a sling about 8 feet to the right after you get over the roof. There is fixed gear right below the second roof.
Feb 27, 2004
Thanks for the info guys. I guess I have no excuse not to give it a try now......
Mar 17, 2003
Plus, if you use double ropes you can utilize an excellent nut placement (#5 I think) in the flake on the left wall before embarking.
Mar 13, 2003
There is a fairly decent pin in the middle of the roof, which protects the crux getting to the lip(5.11d +). Have a 2.5 friend ready to fire into a bomber placement just above the lip, then be prepared for 10+ slab moves to the belay stance.
Mar 12, 2003
Does anyone know what I might find for gear in the first Mellow Yellow roof? Is there gear in the roof itself, or do you have to gun it off gear at the top of the slab?Sincerely,Cowardly Fellow
Mar 12, 2003
Another link up that is fun and not as hard as the Vertigo start is to do the direct start (10b) on the Yellow Spur. At the top of P4 go right up a lose ramp until you are under a large bulge. The bulge is solid and fun and looks harder than it is (9). Once over the bulge angle right up into the big roof on Mellow Yellow. Climb the roof using the crimp on the right facing wall and reach for a pincher hold out left. Once over the roof there are ample tiny crimp holds, but no pro. Move right about 8 ft to a some fixed gear and a sling. From there work up and slightly right again to a corner and climb an 11c slot on less than inspiring pro to exit. The rest of the climb is covered as above.
Dec 3, 2002
Another great link-up is Suparete to Doub-Griffith to Mellow Yellow ("Hello Jello"?). David A. Turner
Nov 28, 2001
- Mellow Yellow
Thank's for updating that anchor, Noah, it looks a lot better than the last time I used it. I would still be worried about belaying off that first pitch anchor though. The nut is in a block that looks nasty, and the pin is well...old. If you still have the juice, you can climb though the next roof and belay at the next stance out right. It has much better gear for an anchor. You can get an RP at the pitch 3 second roof crux, above the current pin. It's a good piece and protects that crux well. I don't think the pin needs to be replaced. The old bolts that were next to the new ones are gone now. That crap bashie is also gone.
Aug 20, 2016
Added a bomber offset nut to the p1 belay. No need to back it up now, if you choose to belay there.
Apr 29, 2015
Joseph... the current situation: new bolts next to old bolts. All still in the wall as of Sept. 14 2012.
Sep 15, 2012
Jesse, let's get this straight. What I am hearing is that the old bolts were chopped (i.e. heads sawed off) and new holes drilled and new bolts put in next to the chopped ones?
Apr 17, 2012
Thank you for the retro bolting. It would be nice to have the old bolts removed. Currently there are 2 bolts side by side.
Apr 16, 2012
After years of looking at the striking giant roofs and headwall, my friend Cody and I climbed this mega classic yesterday. Again I would like to thank Scott B. for replacing those bolts as the headwall pitch is not to be missed, especially now that the hardware was updated. The pins in the roofs are good. The "anchor" atop the first pitch is so-so, but like Scott said, you can back it up. If you're not pumped silly, keep going through the next roof. You will find an upward-pointing flake to sling (there were two slings on it already) and just to the right is a shallow but good crack for a natural anchor (sizes in the 0.3 range/yellow Aliens). The 5.9 section is a little run out to get started, but adequate gear is found a little further up. Splitting this in two pitches is the way to go. P1) through both roofs; P2) the 5.9 section/the 12a headwall/ to the top.
May 11, 2011
Double thanks on the work, Scott!
Dec 20, 2010
Thanks for the work, Scott.
Dec 18, 2010
Replaced the bolts on the final pitch today. Thanks to Josh Thompson for the expertise and ASCA for the hardware.
Dec 2, 2010
Some of these comments are already covered under the link-up "Mellow Fellow", but I thought I'd add them here for completeness. This is a great climb, and the hard climbing is well protected. The 11d crux on p1 sports a fixed pin that gives a top rope for the hardest moves, and this can be backed with good gear a few feet lower. Just above the lip of the roof, there is a perfect slot for a #2 Camalot. There is a fixed sling/piton/nut anchor at the top of p1, so one could rap from here, but P2 is also very good and interesting. It gets hard right off the belay, fortunately there are a few fixed pins here. After clipping the last pin, one can go straight up into the corner; this looked hard. We reached out right to some great huecos and pulled over the roof this way. After the roof, this pitch gets much easier (5.9ish), but the protection is small and well spaced. I would be interested in trying the 12a seam variation for the last pitch, but we were scared off by the rotten looking bolts (1/4" buttonheads w/ Leeper hangers?). I don't know anything about replacing bolts- do you have to apply for permission with the park? If anyone with knowledge and experience wants to get up there and put some good hardware in, feel free to send me an email and I'll come out and help. -Scott
Mar 4, 2009
- Memory Lapse
Did this route (on-sight, free solo) in 1998, but attributed it to Culp after conversation w/ him revealed he had some memory of being in the vicinity in the 'olden days'. Not entirely sure if this was his creation, but it seemed to be the only line that would've been done before 'Smoke & Mirrors' went in, so he gets credit.
Mar 29, 2008
- Mickey Mouse Nailup
FA: 5.7 A2 Dave Dornan & Joe Oliver, 1960. FFA: Jim Erickson & Jim Walsh, 1968.
May 13, 2016
I had no trouble protecting this route and felt more comfortable on this than for example Purple Haze. Rossiter says 'poorly protected crack', which had me scared away for a while, but once I was on it, it wasn't bad at all.
Jul 13, 2011
I've been on this route twice, and it definitely is NOT a Mickey Mouse route. It seemed to me and each of my partners to be a definite old school "sandbag" at 5.9. Definitely either 5.9+/5.10a.
Jun 2, 2011
Wow. What a great climb. Definitely an overlooked gem. Fairly sustained climbing with decent rests after each difficult spot. Found lots of solid gear although not at sport distances. This may be my favorite 9 pitch in the canyon.
Apr 6, 2010
Looks like the consensus is against an R rating. I'd agree with PG13. If climbing ratings changed with movie ratings, technically there is no longer an X rating. This has been replaced by NC-17, which could stand for "No Climbing under the age of 17"!
Apr 2, 2007
Plenty of gear- it is just that not all of it is good. Place lots and keep cool- if a piece pops, no big deal.
Apr 1, 2007
A month or so ago I removed the loose block down low, so no need for heads up there. Variation: Climb to the chimney in the big hanging flake, but climb right around the flake to a short, dirty right-facing corner (crux), then up past some blocks and a crack (Darin Lang Mar 21, 2002 variation meets here). Exit left on a slab to the rappel chains. ("Mouse Trap" 5.10a PG 0-stars, FRA David Light, Steve Levin Oct 2006). The quantity of jettisoned loose rock on our ascent suggests no climber had ever been there before.
Oct 20, 2006
Climbed this route last weekend. From the above comments I was expecting manky pins and runout moves protectable only with small wires and found neither. The climbing is secure with decent rest stances. I was able to supplement the pins with bomber though somewhat tricky gear. The last pin with the perlon sling is definitely suspect but I was able to place a #1 Camalot just above it. Some difficult moves are made above your gear so I wouldn't recommend the route to the new 5.9 leader but it certainly doesn't compare with other routes in the canyon with a 5.9+ rating.
Sep 19, 2005
Climbed this route again today... steep, exciting and many good stances to place pro. Though the pro is sometimes tricky, the many pins make up for it... as long as you keep you eyes open for them.
Nov 5, 2004
I enjoyed this route, but my left arm got really pumped pinching and laybacking off all all the ribs on the arete. I agree with Darin that there is lots of gear, but it's not inspiring. At the crux, my partner Luke asked, "How's that piece." "OK by not great." "How's the piece below?" "OK, but also not great." I then looked further down, and it was a long way to what a considered a reliable piece. However, at the crux I got a very good red/#2 Camalot up high. The pins above are not as bad as Rossiter implies. I was glad they were there. The move out of the chimney was a blast. I was messing around trying to get gear, but then decided to do without, because the handholds are so big. You end up close to horizontal looking down through the chimnet to the ground. Exciting. A double set of blue through red Aliens or the equivalent are useful.
Mar 8, 2003
I thought this route was much scarier (as a lead) than Darkness 'til Dawn. Definitely not "Mickey Mouse".
Mar 21, 2002
I found this route to be "s" rated more for the quality of the protection than the quantity. Many placements (albeit tricky and easily overlooked) are available, but only a precious few inspire much confidence. Combine the general insecurity of all the moves on the first pitch and throw in a couple of loose blocks that look like good holds (one before the first good gear placement - heads up), and it adds up to an unsettling and generally unaesthetic trip to the Upper Ramp. Opinions certainly vary widely on this, however - Rossiter gives it a star in his most recent guide. A one-star climb in my book, with the brief exception of the really fun moves out of the weird chimney. For the second pitch you can also move up and right into a right-facing dihedral (5.6 or 5.7), and then back left to the rappel tree.
Mar 21, 2002
- Much Slater (left variation)
Agree with Eric, the natural line follows the seam above the roof, up and to the right. I stepped right to the flake w/ pin, and then stepped back left to the vague system of hollow flakes that led to the fixed nut. As for pro on the pitch, I was able to stretch and place bomber gear above the roof before committing to the crux and then stepped back down to rest. Getting established above the roof is the crux, and then there are a few thin moves before gaining the aforementioned flake with pin. It's a jug, so it feels like the end of the business, but it's not. The pin is suspect, and so is all the gear in this section. There's a good 15m of tricky 5.10-ish climbing (with plenty of lichen and sub-par rock) to the fixed wire (and more good pro). This is the scary part. Enjoy! Scott
Feb 16, 2013
Curiousity and lack of a belayer got the best of me the other day so I TR soloed the route a couple times. The left way does still go after the broken hold incident, but it leads you back to the flake with the pin in it. So, in the end, I think the best and most natural climbing is to follow the seam, tending right (actually passing a medium nut placement), to the pin on the flake. From there, it's spicy to the fixed nut, then you're done. Great full value pitch, .11d R.
Nov 29, 2011
Alex; after a discussion with Michael Gilbert, who was Slater's belayer, it turns out that he did do the left variation, on-sight.
Mar 23, 2009
Nice photo, Alex. - wm
Nov 24, 2003
That was Eric J on, and off, Much Slater yesterday. A Left handhold broke part way up the runout Left option of the headwall, he fell, and a green alien placement above the roof ripped.Probably a 40 foot fall...but clean and all is well. (Easy for me to say since I was belaying.) The 3 or 3.5 friend placement under and to the R of the roof held the fall. We finished on Saint Augustine which is cool. mike schlauch
Nov 21, 2003
This morning, I saw someone take a 30-40 foot fall from above the roof on this climb, and then bail off right towards upper Grand Giraffe. I hope everyone's OK.
Nov 20, 2003
...After speaking with one of the first ascensionists it was acknowledged that the original free line of Much Slater went over the roof, immediately moved up and right (at a sort of "Y") to an angle piton driven down behind a flake, hence there are two variations to this crux pitch (as per the above route description, this left version is much more sustained and run-out). Not knowing anything about the route, I thought I was going the proper way. Its not for certain if anyone had done this left variation prior to my ascent. For historical significance, the route was originally attempted free by Jim Erickson 30 years ago, which resulted in the Saint Augustine traverse under the roof. -AS
May 3, 2002
- Neptune's Bible
- Neurosis
Climbed this to Psycho Pigeon. What a contrast in rock quality, with this one getting the short end of the stick. Ivan, we did the #3 Camalot move with little success in freeing it. I did get it seconding by taking the cam out and moving up higher and left and using tiny edges in the roof to reach right to the fist jam. Swinging right onto that hand proved incredibly painful. The rock above this was suspect to the end except for the enjoyable steep 9+ section. While fun it didn't seem worth it. The final pitch could be cool if you could punch it straight up. Looks hard, I wonder if anyone's done it?
Mar 8, 2007
- One and a Half Hours of Power
There are three bolts in rapid succession after leaving the ground. The first two, including the 1/4" stud without a hanger, were replaced with beefy SS Fixe bolts from American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). The third bolt (not replaced) is a 3/8" wedge bolt that looks to be in good condition.
Apr 15, 2014
Try submitting a suggestion to ACE... I think they have some work coming up anyway. If you can't figure out how to contact them, then you can do it through the BCC here: boulderclimbingcommunity.ne…
May 14, 2012
I haven't checked out the bolt stud in a while, but I remember slinging it with a stopper and wishing it were an actual bolt. So yes, if someone is motivated to replace the hanger, or the whole assembly, I think that would be useful.
May 13, 2012
What's the deal with the stud? Does it need a hanger or should it be removed according to the ACE website?
Feb 10, 2012
Actually Stu, I got the coveted second ascent about 15 minutes after Derek led the FA and also climbed it as a single pitch. I don't remember the gear being an issue except for a flake at the upper crux in the corner, which seemed suspect. Although mostly a link up of previous climbed terrain, it is a worthy pitch.
Aug 9, 2010
I led perhaps the second ascent of this route, as a single pitch, in the early '90s while Derek sprayed beta from below. What I mainly recall is him constantly encouraging me with comments like, "there's a jug just a bit further," and "the gear gets better higher." In all truth, this is a very good, long pitch with barely adequate protection.
Aug 8, 2010
- Over the Shoulder Stuff
- Parting Shot
Great route! Bolts are where you want them!
Feb 15, 2016
Thanks for the bolt work, Gregger Man! Much appreciated, and a route worth the effort.
Jun 8, 2014
Replaced the first and third bolts today - they didn't get upgraded with the rest in 2002 and were quite rusty by now.
Jun 7, 2014
You can belay at the stance with one bolt with a few small nuts. I'm not sure if it is worth breaking it up into two pitches, but that's what I had to do in order to retreat to get a TR from my partner after falling multiple times at the crux. I thought this route was very difficult. I have led and toproped multiples 11s at Eldo and had a much more difficult time on Parting Shot than on COC, Center Route, Parallels, Foxtrot, Vertigo, Naked Edge, etc. Maybe it is because I'm short? Also, the last roof is at least 10d! I really want to know how to do it 10a.
Apr 3, 2011
Excellent route, with loads of variety, interesting cruxes, and fun run outs on easier terrain. It's also a very long pitch (160-170'?) and requires liberal use of slings to avoid drag at the end. Agree with the above, nothing larger than 1" pro necessary. One of my favorite routes in Eldo in this grade.
May 6, 2009
A very enjoyable and safe pitch. When linked together nothing larger than a red Alien is necessary. If you only have one rope, it's an easy traverse left to the Dirty Deed (West Chimney) rappel.
Mar 27, 2006
I did not on-sight the "second pitch" of this route, I didn't even come close. I hung like a boy-scout on the thing. My first mistake was to fire off on it with no gear. After pulling the first crux, which I think was 11b, not 10d, I realized I had a way to go to the anchor with no gear. The climbing was moderate, but the rock was a little suspect; I was certainly in ground-fall territory for quite a ways after the second bolt. As I hit the 'belay' (one bolt, but a ledge you can sit back in), I went off belay and lowered the rope for some gear for the upper section. One set of nuts to 1" and one set of Aliens. I would have been much happier on that first pitch with a set of TCUs to 1" or 1.5" Anyway, I cast back off onto the second pitch, placing a good cam in the crack to the left with a 2' sling before getting to the first bolt. If you don't place gear and you fall before the first bolt of the second pitch, you are probably going to be injured seriously... when you smack into the belay ledge on the way down your factor-2 fall. Anyway, then you clip the first bolt and it's off to the races. The crux "roof" indeed has a nice broken hold just below it and a thin devious move. Frankly, I thought is was 12- but maybe I missed something. Once over the roof the fun is not over yet. Just as there were no hand holds within 3' above it, there are also no feet. Clip the bolt and move on left... as the "pump-clock" is ticking. You have more than 10 meters to go to the next bolt, Perhaps 15m. There is a good cam (green or blue alien) behind a bad flake after maybe 5 meters. (1x0=0), just as ('good cam' X 'bad flake' = 'Bad gear'). 5 Meters later still, a very key stopper placement can be had to the left at the top of the loose flake between this route and 'Journey to Ithaca.' A good crack is just up and right of that and it takes a solid medium nut with a 2' sling. Place that and you'll be happier as you are again perhaps 4 meters further up, with the bolt 2 feet out of reach, fingers damp with sweat, gripping pebbles and moving up onto sloper feet with a small amount of lichen, now maybe 15 meters above that last bolt, but unable to clip the next one. The move is probably 5.9, but I was sweaty, nervous, and pumped/tired. Clip the bolt and head up through the final roof with 2 more bolts (moderate 5.10) and up the slab above to finish, a final good nut can be placed 2 meters above the last bolt for a directional, so your second can get as high as possible before being exposed to the potential swing generated by your decision to belay at the good big tree above and to the south. Whew....
May 31, 2004
The opening moves have become more difficult since the first ascent due to a flake breaking off. The crux is height (or reach dependent). The final roof has always seemed like it had a move or two of 11- to me. Would love to find the 10a way to pull it! BTW, bolts on this route were replaced in the summer of 2002. An entertaining variation pioneered by the much-missed Derek Hershey climbs the opening corner of Parting Shot, traverses right to the crux bulge of the second pitch of Apple Strudel and finishes on the Parting Shot roof. He named it "Parting Strudel Shot."
Nov 12, 2003
A litle more detail: The climbing is easier after the 10d crux at the 2nd bolt, but the rock is a little suspect. Gear is decent. The one bolt optional belay can be backed up with a double length sling over a pillar and a #3 Friend/#2 Camalot. Small gear and Aliens protect the move right to the 3rd bolt (not counting the belay bolt). The 11b/c crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Hardly a "roof", being less than a foot deep, but hard. It gets easy quickly after the 4th bolt, and you get gear in a crack on the left. Moderate climbing leads up to just before the 5th bolt at which point the face steepens. I found the 5th bolt a little hard to clip. Too many holds to choose from, but none particularly good. There is a decent nut a little below in a sideways slot. A couple more moves lead to jugs below a 45 degree roof. The Rossiter topo seems to call these face moves 10b. Neither Rossiter nor Matt above mentions this roof. I was surprised to see it, but it goes easily on big holds. I felt it was 10a/b, including an easy swing to a jug, but it could be harder if you're short. Rossiter calls this 11a. There are two bolts on this roof (a real roof). So 7 bolts total plus the one belay bolt. The Rossiter topo has several errors. It shows the first two bolts one above the other and far apart. They are more sideways from each other. It shows 3 bolts at the 11b/c crux, but there are only two. It shows Journey to Ithaca (real scary looking--we intended to do that but took the safe but harder Parting Shot finish) as diverging from the belay stance, but the two climbs split at the one foot roof. You can do just the first pitch as a one move 10d and easily escape left from the optional belay to the two bolts halfway up (or down) the West Chimney.
Jun 21, 2003
- Phallus In Suck-It-Land
Climbed this without checking the topo or description. Went left far enough to clip the one bolt belay ledge that's part of upper Grand Giraffe. That's a fun dihedral. I worked back right from there and rejoined the route to run it to the top. More fun than P2 of Alice, IMHO. [take a 60m or 70m rope]
May 16, 2010
Wow, talk about adventure climbing, I was either off-route soon after pulling the first roof, or no one's been up there for a while...great if you like feeling like you're doing an FA and eating lichen. BUT a lot of the moves were good, and you get to wander all over that face with great exposure. I wouldn't recommend it, but I'd do it again.
Mar 8, 2009
- Pigeon Crack
A #4 Camalot works fine for protecting the chimney's apex. A beautiful 4" crack leads to the top....
Jan 8, 2014
- Psycho Pigeon
The crux pitch on this thing is easily one of my favorites in the canyon. Webster always knew how to find a line. So good!
May 14, 2015
The crux pitch on this thing is easily 4 stars! Amazing position, super solid rock, and great moves. If you link this from Super Slab or The D-G and then finish on the original finish of the Yellow Spur, it makes for a 5 star climb of consistent 5.10-5.11! The 1st pitch off of the Upper Ramp is very lichenous and has some loose stuff, but it's worth it to get to the goods.
Apr 4, 2015
I was delighted to discover that the belay at the end of the first pitch above the upper ramp (pitch 1 or 4 depending on where you start counting) has modern bolts. The fixed hardware database doesn't seem to have this info, and I don't know when this was rebolted, but there weren't any 1/4" bolts or buttonheads as described above by others. The position of this route is fantastic! Really airy!
Nov 10, 2014
There are two independent pitches that lead to the Upper Ramp. The first hits an awsome splitter crack the leads just below Psychosis 11a roof. The second moves right and up a steep face visible from the Upper Ramp rappel. The Rossiter guide says these are three pitches that more or less follow Three Old Farts. They really add to the route, and the 5.10 crack on P1 is awesome.
Sep 6, 2011
Once I fell 30 feet off of the third pitch of this due to the stopper in the diagonal slash pulling while getting lost on the Yellow Spur.... Can I tick it?
Mar 29, 2010
I agree with Josh. You can place a small TCU to back up the bolts at the anchor at the top of the first pitch, and it is possible to place an RP before the first bolt on the second pitch. So, you are not totally run out, but it would be nice if that 1/4" button head was replaced as it is essentially the only thing you have when you start the traverse to the arete, and it would be a bad fall if it broke.
May 20, 2007
Great rock and position. An overlooked classic.
Mar 8, 2007
Greg Miller dragged a willing (it was my idea) but way out of shape me up Psycho Pigeon yesterday. My mind was willing, but my body wasn't. We approached via Psychosis, P1 of which was mixed snow and rock, and P3 of which was desperately-cold jamming. We started Psycho Pigeon via the left-facing corner depicted in the photo of Mellow Fellow. The move off the ground felt like 10+, but otherwise it was 9 with 9s at the end moving left then up to the belay. Rossiter describes starting further left, which looked very unappealing. You could also climb the flake just right of the corner. I was unhappy belaying the runout to the first bolt. Greg didn't get the nut in mentioned by someone above. Greg lunged at the crux stand up, disappeared around the corner, and with some mumbling, finished the pitch clean. I totally lunged the crux, got the jug, and then barn-doored off. I was very unhappy to move around the arete and discover it was not a slab, but rather very steep fingery face climbing. Flailed there. Near the top of the pitch, you can move left to the arete for a rest, but you'll want to move back right, and up and over the roof via fun easy move. P3 had decent gear. Greg got a good blue Alien in before the first bolt. The moves at the bolts were quite hard. I was expecting 10c, but Steve says 10d, and Rossiter says 11a. I was exhausted at this point and hung twice getting over the bulge.
Feb 18, 2007
I got on this one with my friend Joe yesterday. We climbed Three Old Farts to reach the upper ramp. This is an excellent way to reach Psycho Pigeon. Like Steve says, Psycho Pigeon is a neglected semi-classic. I thought the climbing was good and requires good route finding skills. There wasn't any chalk up there to help you find the way. It's totally worth more accents that it obviously doesn't get.
May 7, 2006
I think it's a little interesting that nobody is discussing the bottom of the climb. The first 3 pitches are not insignificant and if done by the best line are all 5.10.The first pitch may as well be done as Psychosis (the 5.10 mantle) because the 5.9 to the right is junkier. THe middle pitch, as 3 Old Farts Young At Heart is excellent and well protected overhead for most moves. The 3rd pitch is independant and climbs like 'Body Tremors' but harder and with a few bolts. It's significant enough to say that without doing that pitch, you have not done the route. Not so hard as it is a testiment to what was envisioned and done by the FA party, and to "Get it" regarding the nature of the climbing on this route.
Nov 9, 2004
In my opinion, the crux second pitch is about the same degree of difficulty as other classic Eldo face routes at this grade, eg. Wide Country. Well protected.
Oct 14, 2004
What's interesting is that the guidebook describes the crux in a different place, on the arete after the traverse. Rossiter describes the trasverse as 5.10. Maybe something broke off?
Aug 20, 2004
What a nice surprise this route is! Its tempting to give it 3 stars, but its hard to grant classic status to something that avoids all the obvious climbing on the Yellow Spur. The crux traverse move felt like easy-11 to me, but the move is very height dependent... and apparently kind of scary for the second. Its another one of those Eldo problems where you see a jug above a blank stretch, and you have to concoct some scheme to get to it. I think the comments on the seriousness of the 3rd pitch are overstated... there is a nice stopper placement in the diagonal slash, and then moderate climbing to clip the bolt. The original 4th pitch looked like a contrived joke (5.8, one bolt eight feet left of arete), so we stuck to the Yellow Spur arete to the top.
Jul 20, 2004
To add to Josh's comment, there is also a 20ft section on the 3rd pitch (above the fixed pin and on the way to the 2 bolts) in which it is difficult to find good gear. It's easy at the pin and about .10- just before the bolts. Overall I'd say the route deserves more ascents than it seems to get.
Jun 28, 2004
The four bolts protecting the crux section on the second pitch have been replaced and it feels ultra-safe. However, there are other spicy sections: For example, the belay at the beginning of this pitch is a button head and a 1/4 inch, and there is a long section of climbing right off that is only protected by a 1/4 incher (it would suck to break this bolt and factor two on the belay).
Jun 26, 2004
What an excellent and wild route! Well protected in the harder sections, but plenty of spicy runouts on easier terrain, great position and exposure! (most of the old bolts have been replaced!) I thought the crux on the second pitch was more like 5.11b, it seemed as hard as lots of Eldo 11b routes. And be prepared for 10a or b serious on the third pitch before getting to the first bolt... it's steep and sustained here and the lichen and occasional crumbly rock make falling on marginal gear a possibility if you're not paying attention. Routes like this remind me of how unique and awesome Eldorado really is!
Mar 22, 2004
I did this route a couple of years ago (maybe 2000) and thought that the crux move was on the traverse close to the arete and it felt a lot harder than 11a to me. Maybe I missed something but my partner thought it was a lot harder than 11a too. Good route though.
Feb 4, 2004
I did this route a couple of years ago and the crux felt like it was a lot harder than 11a. The crux felt like it was on the traverse out to the arete . I've done a lot of 11's in eldo and all I can recall from this route was a moment of desperation that I wasn't prepared for. Maybe I missed something, but my partner felt it was desperate for 11a too. Worth doing though.
Feb 4, 2004
- Psychosis
Linked Psychosis to 3 Old Farts to direct roof this morning with a 70m and had plenty of rope to get to the good trees. Don't know which way the previous poster went to have to use 75m. Carried doubles in finger, singles in 1-4, with an extra 2 and seemed to be about perfect. Double in 0.75/1 would probably help. One of the best roofs in Eldo!
Sep 4, 2015
I linked up P1 of Psychosis, P2 of Three Old Farts, and the Psychosis direct roof for an onsight attempt yesterday. It required 75 meters of an 80 meter rope to reach the belay trees. While resting below the top roof, an apparently solid block that I was standing on decided to pop off and fly towards my belayer. Fortunately, my belayer dodged the flying block, and I had good handholds and stayed on, averting a potentially spectacular whip to my last stopper 25+ feet below. Be careful where you put your feet below the top roof. Some of the rotten blocks may be less solid than they appear.
Dec 14, 2014
Vertigo roof is shorter, with one hard move. No one move is as hard on Psycho Direct, but the burly factor goes on much longer, and the pump starts to stack up. Canyon classic with 2nd pitch of 3 OF.
Nov 7, 2012
It was great watching you get this, Anthony. Thanks for letting me try to follow you on this great long pitch.
Mar 22, 2012
This route is now my favorite Eldo pitch. I did it in one pitch through the direct roof, passing the rope management Levin test without knowing there was one here! The second pitch is not perfect rock, but it really fun and steep. The third pitch is more sustained than Vertigo and much more fun.
Mar 21, 2012
The jug in the middle of the roof crack on P3 is now gone! I was quite surprised to see this when a buddy and I did the route a couple of days ago. Feels just a tad harder to climb and definitely harder to get the no feet hero swing that used to be part of the P3 fun :-)
Jan 23, 2012
*CONDITION REPORT* The big jug chockstone in the middle of the P3 direct roof pitch is VERY LOOSE. Use extreme caution!
Oct 19, 2010
The direct third pitch roof is better than the roof on Vertigo, IMHO.
Aug 14, 2010
There is currently a very sleepy or very dead bird in the third pitch. Maybe a pair of BBQ tongs should be added to the required equipment list. Please extract this bird and give it a final flight. The direct 3rd pitch variation is one of the better ways to get air between your legs at Eldo. Wild!!!
Jul 1, 2009
I hadn't done this route in over 15 years until Saturday and it was terrific. Much better than I remembered with the 3OF 2d pitch var. While 11a for the 3d pitch start seemed generous, 10a for the upper hand crack seemed quite stout. A blue Camalot was the biggest piece of gear we took and it came in handy protecting the crux moves above the roof on 3OF as well as the flare on the 3d pitch direct start. The rest of the rack consisted of RPs (optional), Nuts 1-6, and 2 sets of cams: Aliens - gold Camalot, (1) Blue Camalot. This is probably more than most folks will need, but we managed to place most of it!
Jun 1, 2009
Please check your spelling of my last name. And it was Bob Hritz, not Chris Reveley completing the foursome.
May 12, 2009
I think the second pitch is getting unfairly dissed. Althought it's true that P2 of Old Farts is much better, the second pitch of Psychosis is no looser than many passages on Eldo classics, and the climbing is steep, well-protected, and fun. Do Old Farts if it's your first time in the area, but don't rule out doing P2 of Psychosis on a return visit.
Apr 18, 2007
Karin and I did P1 of Psychosis to the belay at the start of the crack on P2 of 3 Old Farts. I thought P1 was safe - 1.5F behind the undercling flake at the .10- crux, looked like it would stay, especially since you're toproping the move - rest of pitch is typical Eldo. We then did P2 of Old Farts directly into Psychosis P3 in one long pitch. The steep part at the bottom of Psychosis P3 - I think it get's .11a - was way easier - no joke, I'm thinking 5.9 - as long as you don't try to crack climb but istead use all the buckets. If this is .11a, then the roof on Vertigo is 12b. Protect this whole bottom section with a #4 camalot placed high in the flare. Overall, this is quite a good pitch.
Mar 26, 2007
Did this climb Saturday on the suggestion some climber I met in Eldo -- can't remember his name. He described it as every bit as good as Vertigo and other such classics. I would heartily concur. I ran the first two pitches together, doing the 3 Farts variation, and I see no reason not to do this other than that you are carrying 100+ feet of rope on your harness as you do the crux 10d moves. The rope runs straight, and there is no drag to speak of. I found the pro totally adequate for the first roof move. At the 3 Farts roof and above, I would call the pro adequate again, but not necessarily plentiful. Belay on the obvious ledge directly below the 11a overhanging crack. My partner lead this pitch, and it is stellar. The 3 Farts variation and overhanging crack are some of the most classic rock climbing Eldo has to offer. Do it!
Sep 25, 2006
Since the late '70s, I've been attracted to Psychosis and its neighbor Neurosis, but also afraid of them. Afraid partly due to the names of the climbs, partly due to my unfamiliarity with that part of Redgarden, but mostly due to the stature of the first ascent climbers. These climbs were physically within my ability but psychologically out of reach. I finally did Psychosis, and it was anticlimactic. Great climb, but nowhere near as hard as I had expected and not at all scary. On our first attempt a few weeks ago, we did the original 5.9 second pitch. It's very steep and impressive but very hollow. Lots of gear, but most of it in the hollow flakes. We wanted to do the original 10d variation to the last pitch. The description, "traverse right to the hand crack" confused us. We were looking for a long traverse and unknowingly did the last pitch of Neurosis, despite that traverse not ending in a hand crack. Turns out the Psychosis "traverse" is just a couple of moves right off the ledge. Obvious now.... On our second attempt, we did the 10d Old Farts' second pitch. It's intimidating from the ground. The rock is black and smooth looking. Once on the route, it is indeed a bit intimidating pulling over the ceiling. You can't tell where the next good pro or stance will be. The crux for me of the entire route was the 10 feet or so above the second pitch ceiling. The third pitch 11a crux seemed quite easy. Huge holds, good gear, although I was expecting a better rest above. I struggled more on the 10a hand crack that followed. The first pitch crux is well protected and easy, if you're of medium height or taller, with the right sequence and body position. We had 3 cams at the lip, two of which we bounce tested. The rock there is a little suspect, but you are top roped for the crux reach. The gear on the easier slab above (5.8 or 9 in places) is fair to poor. You can get in a lot of pieces, but few are reliable.
May 9, 2004
This route rocks the mic!!!
Feb 8, 2004
Gear is good at all the hard parts. P1 has some runout climbing on easy ground. Possibly THE neglected classic of Eldo if P2 of Old Farts is done. At least as good as Vertigo. Good suggestion by Tony Bubb to start w/ Schizophrenia. A soft 11a by Eldo standards. The crux pitch resembles the last pitch of Vertigo; the Psychosis roof has no move as hard as the V roof's hardest but is a longer, more continuous pitch.
Jun 3, 2003
An excellent 3-star route. I recommend climbing P1 of Psychosis then combining P2a of 3 Old Farts Young at Heart with P3a. Belay at a tree on the first ledge above the overhanging crack to minimize rope drag from knocking rocks on your partner, then take it another 20 ft to the top. A #1/2-green & #3/4-yellow alien was useful on the P1 roof . Its also convienently tops out next to the Upper Ramp rappel station between Vertigo and Psychosis requiring two single rope raps back to the ledge.
May 5, 2003
As good as Vertigo. If the Vertigo roof is benchmark-11a, then the roof on this one is considerably easier... yet I thought it was way more fun. The 10a at the start deserves an "S"
Oct 5, 2002
I just did this route for a second time this morning. It is stellar! Do the variations as described above and in the above comment. The protection is good at the cruxes and the clmibing is just so good. I think this is a three-star route.
Jul 31, 2002
I just did this route for the first time monday 11/12/01 and was very impressed. As described, we did p1 of psychosis; p2a, which is '3 old farts. . . ' (the last pitch of that routye looks very good!); and the direct .11- finger to hand crack 'variation' described as p3a.Next time I'll combine the two lower pitches into one as they were rather short. Fun, diverse climbing with nice position and increasing difficulties as you ascend. We were surprised that this route doesn't have more of a reputation as the gear is all very reasonable, and overall we thought it to be more sustained and every bit as good, if not better, than Vertigo. A great addition to this site. WDC
Nov 14, 2001
- Reaper
- Rocky Raccoon
Looks like the 2 topmost branches of the tree were recently broken off. The transition onto the face is now much harder (and not fun, just awkward). There are much better climbs in the area to do, in my opinion.
Jul 17, 2008
- Roll Over Rover
My husband, Dave, and I replaced the 3 lead bolts with 1/2" stainless steel Power bolts supplied by the BCC. We were able to reuse all of the holes. Thanks BCC for supplying the hardware! Please consider donating: BCC Original bolt beside new bolt.
Jan 12, 2016
Great pitch and one of my new favorites in Eldo. With some new hardware and a lower 2nd and 3rd clip, this route would be a lot more friendly. Getting to the first bolt felt PG-13 to me.
May 13, 2015
I really enjoyed this route, it was nice to find a fun, well-protected, hard route in a cool position. As for the bolt positioning, clipping the second and third was difficult, but both had good stances right below them and I found it easy to downclimb back to the stances after clipping for quick rests. Overall, I didn't think the bolt positions made the route any harder. The second and third bolt looked like they've been recently replaced (thanks!), and the first, although old, still looks a lot better than some of the museum pieces in Eldo.
Jan 19, 2009
11b/c climbing, but making the 3rd clip feels like 11+.
Jul 15, 2004
A good pitch. Of the three bolts, the only easily clippable one is the first. The second bolt is about four feet away from a perfect stance, but once clipped you'll have overhead pro for most of what I thought was the crux. The third bolt is clipped mid-move making the last hard section a little harder than necessary. It would be nice to have the bolts placed more logically (and to have modern bolts). Also, a med/lg stopper will safely get you to the first bolt. It was definitely way overrated at .12a and .11d. It seems like .11b/c even with the bolts being hard to clip.
May 8, 2002
See "Roving for Love" for more ideas.
May 3, 2002
- Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor)
I led the 1st pitch Tuesday - it's fun. The climbing is similar to Body Tremors but scarier due to fragile rock. For the record, though: The application did not include any bolts on P1, and ACE did not push the issue of P1 bolts in either direction. That's why I never got around to climbing P1 during the bolt application process for P2. I think P1 is 'R' rated, but that's the choice of the FA.
Jul 24, 2014
Great new/old school adventure style route. It deserves to be popularized!
Jun 21, 2014
Hey Steve, I do agree that the 1st pitch could probably have 1 or 2 bolts on it. I feel the gear is sufficient as it is, but if you're off route, it's not sufficient. ACE encouraged me to place 2 more bolts on the 2nd pitch from my original request of only 1 bolt. They thought having those bolts would help climbers "know where to go" up on the vast face of holds and options.... Make it "not so contrived and more of a desirable route". I did suggest, if that's why we're placing more bolts, then we should add 1-2 bolts for the 1st pitch too.... But I didn't press that thought because of the moderate climbing and the adequate gear, if you're on the correct line. From the belay stance at the bottom (small cave), don't step out right! Climb up the ramp for 8-10' and pull the bulge past the tick marks to start.... In the first 30', there are 5-6 placements that really protect you well....
May 31, 2014
Nice, way fun route, with beautiful huecos scattered throughout. I agree with Scott that the first pitch is pretty run out and solid 5.9 (or harder).... I probably took a somewhat different line than Scott, even though I was cleaning the occasional pro, but I didn't see the "5.8 PG-13" line at all. Lots of thick lichen and the occasional friable bits of rock in places yesterday, but this will be a 3-star route once it cleans up over time. I thought the crux on the second pitch was that powerful Gaston move before getting to the first bolt. Felt like 5.11b for that move but no harder than 11a above that. Thanks to Drew for finding the line and adding it to the fine menu of Eldo climbs! P.S. Seems odd that ACE suggested 3 bolts for the upper pitch but no bolts for the first?
May 29, 2014
Cool to hear you guys got up there to feel your way... freakin' wild! 1st pitch is scarcely protected if not on the line, but if you follow the S pattern, there are 9-10 pieces to place in 70'. 5.8+ to start, then mostly 5.7-8 the rest of the pitch. From the belay stance (small cave), climb up the ramp about 8-10' to start the 1st pitch. 2nd pitch is 135' of fairly full-on route finding and puzzle fitting... plus powerful too! Great to hear you did it in 1 pitch, Scott! Nice work! Let's get up there again.... LMKnow
May 29, 2014
Super fun new line, thanks to the FAs for their eye and their work. Did the route in one pitch, which seemed totally fine, as it's pretty much straight up. A set of Camalots up to #4, with doubles #0.75-2 and some stoppers, was adequate. I probably didn't find all the pro that Drew did on the first pitch, or maybe I went the wrong way, because the first pitch felt more like 5.9R. Still a bit flaky and lichen-y in spots but overall good climbing with a feel similar to Alice in Bucketland or Body Tremors. The second pitch was cash-money, steep and clean with fun moves and good pro. While not that many new routes go up in the canyon these days, the ones that do are all gems! -Scott
May 28, 2014
- Rover
7/30/17- P2 dihedral is COVERED in bird shit. Made this otherwise fun pitch not fun at all.
Jul 31, 2017
The 3rd pitch is no joke...be solid at the 5.11 grade in Eldo! The follower also needs to be fairly solid, and if I were to go back, I might consider using double ropes. I agree with Scott that there were some good micro-cams for the first 2/3 of the 5.10 runnout. The final bit getting to the roof is pretty thin! The actual roof crux is blind, commiting, and quite counterintuitive. Bad falls are a real possibility here... choose your belayer wisely! I was able to clip the bolt before committing to the crux, but shorties might have a bit more trouble reaching it. The climbing above the roof is fairly dangerous 5.9...watch for loose blocks and flakes...I think overall the pitch warrants an R rating even with the bolt. This route is a classic example of Eldorado funk...it requires a good bit of creativity and poise to put together an onsight. I think it would make a great pre-requisite to Mellow Yellow on the upper ramp...the style is very similar, but it's a bit easier.
Mar 6, 2017
Some comments on the 3rd pitch (the 11b roof pitch): I didnt think the 5.10 face below the roof was that runout. Theres good gear for the first 2/3rds of it, and then a bit of a runout up to the roof, where great gear can be had. Maybe some persistent and creative nutting could eliminate even this runout. That said, I did think the crux roof itself was pretty spicy. You need to put long slings on the gear below the roof, so when youre pulling the crux (which was kinda hard to figure out) youre facing an awkward fall onto the slab below. I dont know whats up with the bolt on this thing, it cant be clipped until after finishing the crux sequence. There is still some hard climbing after the roof, so I was definitely glad to have the bolt, but if it were further left, it might protect the crux. Anyways, this is a really good pitch for those feeling good on 5.11. -Scott
Mar 21, 2009
Get on it...the P2 dihedral is incredible. With footwork and body positioning you can eliminate a great deal of the pump.
Dec 16, 2008
Did the first two pitches of this route with Danny Inman & Schwetty as a single pitch with a 60M up to the bolted belay to bypass the opening pitches of Ruper. Pretty fun and funky climbing.
Mar 19, 2007
I did the dihedral on Sunday as an alternate to the Ruper crack. Pat "Mono Master" Finnegan dragged my ass up the dihedral. He powered through the crux with no problems flexing his prodigious pecs. The bird crap was a little problem under the dihedral and I think we intruded on some bird homes as there was quite a bit of protesting coming from inside the crack. The dihedral itself is great and not a hard .9 compared to say Green Spur or Rosy.
Jul 25, 2005
P.S. The Bird-lime situation is nearly non-existant as of yesterday (5-10-05). Of course, I may not have noticed it because I was concentrating on my feet too much, but then again, maybe you won't either... ~Wm
May 11, 2005
George, I agree with you about the pumpiness of this section. However, there is a pretty nice kneebar after the first little overhang, a perfect time and position for it. This allows the sub-confident leader to rest (I actually got a drink of water, more for the stage than the need), before what I feel is the real "Business" part of this pitch. I absolutely love this pitch and would recommend it to anyone looking for practice routes to break into 5.10 in Eldo. It would likely be a 5.10 anywhere else.... ~Wm
May 11, 2005
Almost didn't do pitch 2, following the bird "lime"comments. Turned out that there's only one hold with some poop on it - nothing excessive at all (as ofSaturday 05-22-04).I thought this was a great alternative to p2. of Ruper -definitely a little harder, but way better protected. Not as hard as it looks.I used cams from a red Alien to a blue (#3) Camalot.
May 26, 2004
P2 is an excellent variation for Ruper, but is significantly harder than anything on Ruper (IMHO). The "wide crack" pitch 2 on Ruper is difficult because the crack is too wide to jam, and feels insecure. However compared to the Rover Dihedral, this pitch is pretty low angle. The Rover Dihedral is steep and pumpy, tons of gear can be placed but it will pump you out. Both ways are great fun. I don't remember and bird shit when I did the Rover Dihedral about a year ago.
Apr 19, 2004
Not too bad on the doo-doo factor. I didn't particularly notice anything dramatic, so its certainly not second-pitch-of-Jules-Verne caliber. We definitely heard birds squirming around inside the crack though.
Jul 24, 2003
I thought the runout face pitch above the tower to the roof was very scary!
Jul 24, 2003
Here's my new-found beta for that route. First off, stellar route, the first three pitches anyway. that's all we got to. went like this: started with the crack on the left, short, phenomenal stemming & lay backing...went up the Rover dihedral - - it was way too pretty to pass up, protected very well, and ends at bolts. Why anyone would do those as 2 separate pitches I can't understand - - they linked great as one. Then the traverse and short bit up to the tree, and an epic descent taking twice as long as the climb - - long story. I didn't use anything larger than the red (#1) Camalot, and really didn't need that...small Metolius cams (blue thru red), med. and large nuts, or medium hexes, and lots of slings. Maybe the Ruper crack down low needs big stuff, as I've read, but I just hate carrying a lot of gear, and I found that by going light, I could move fast enough that I didn't need to place a lot of pro. I wonder if all 3 could be done in one pitch with some rope drag. Anyone tried that? How about linking the 4 + 5? Can a single 60m do it?
Jun 14, 2002
- Ruper
Lots of beta in the foregoing. Here are my observations: We did the approach via Slimy Spoon. Both pitches had some interesting climbing. Definitely worth doing. We didn't encounter any loose rock. P1 of Ruper: strenuous lieback off the deck. Fun. Good pro. P2: definitely the money pitch. It probably was 5.8 back in the day when it actually had good friction,but now is horribly polished. Need to be a 5.9 crack climber to handle it gracefully. There is good pro but not enough to aid it. You do want a #4 down low and no need to back-clean it. P3: aesthetic, definitely. Only one moderately hard move, somewhat committing. Might be challenging if you're no taller than a hobbit. Excellent pro. We rapped down the Upper Ramp to rejoin the route. Fast and safe. P4 & 5: I linked them. They are very easy 5.5 - 5.6 climbing with fairly good pro (slight shortage of pro the first 40 ft, so don't skip any placements). Extremely fun to climb nearly 200 ft in one go; fun movement. Place the anchor 25+ ft below the roof. I made the mistake of thinking I wasn't yet 20 ft below the roof, so climbed up one more ledge -- directly into the bird poop. Plenty of small gear for an anchor there, but we might've been a little more comfy at the lower ledge. P6: I didn't lead it, but it looked like there was enough pro + pitons. Only one spot that was somewhat insecure, challenging climbing. In general, don't worry about all the previous worrisome comments on this pitch, because it really didn't seem like any big deal unless you really aren't up to doing Eldo 5.8 leads. We rapped out via Chockstone & Vertigo Raps. The entrance to the gully for the Chockstone is only about 100 ft above (northwest of) where you top out on Ruper -- it's just behind (North of) the small pinnacle. There's one somewhat exposed move to get there, but it's safe enough even in trail shoes. Climb down a short way into the chasm (easy) behind the pinnacle to locate the rap rings. From the bottom of that rap, you climb up onto a ridge that's about 20-ft tall to the West, then downclimb carefully to the first set of rap rings for Vertigo. At the bottom of the Vertigo Raps, hike to the N along the cliff, which eventually makes a switchback onto the main trail taking you past the start to Yellow Spur, etc. You walk right by the packs if you left anything at the start of Slimy Spoon. I agree with the others that P4 - 6 are definitely worth doing. Fun, fun! As to whether this is a classic, or too contrived -- well, I certainly had fun, and thought it was more interesting than Anthill overall, but I must say that I've never before had to rappel in the middle of a route to get to the continuation of it! It would be more aesthetic if the Upper Ramp wasn't there, certainly, but it's all good and probably still a classic ;-)
Aug 17, 2017
Just a heads up for anyone planning on doing this route in the near future: there is currently a massive pile of bird poop and an old nest in the crack just below the roof at the start of pitch 6. It's avoidable, but I would extend your placements here so your rope doesn't rub over the crack and turn white....
Aug 14, 2017
Climbed this route yesterday, and it was great! I can't give enough credit to the old school that led this without Friends back in the day. P1. The first 20 ft are the hardest part on this, but it didn't feel too bad. Fun pitch. P2. Ruper Crack, I was glad I had the #4, and that is because I'm not the best crack climber. We ended up sinking the #4 on the third pitch as well. This crack felt pretty burly to me, and it's because of all the laybacking I did. You can sew it up, so take some breaths, and go for it. P3. Ruper Traverse, somebody else posted this, and I can't emphasize it enough, don't go to high on the traverse where the high up chalk marks are. You will be at a good stance, and use the wide ledge with the hands (the feet are there and are pretty good, but you have to look for 'em). Then you hit a nice hand traverse crack. The whole climb felt harder to me than 8+, but it's old school ratings, I'm not the best crack climber, and I'm not in the greatest shape right now.
Feb 14, 2017
Climbed it today, great route! The #4 Camalot is not required for pitch 2 (Ruper Crack). It may help with peace-of-mind, but the crack can be climbed without using this large of gear. Awesome route - super sustained 5.8+ and solid! Note: we attempted to rap over pitches 1-3 from the tree on the Upper Ramp (after initially rapping Chockstone Chimney), this forced us to swing out left to get to the anchor above pitch 2 (due to pitch 3 traversing right). This caused rope drag to be bad enough that we couldn't pull the rope. Follow other's advice here and rap off the west side of Upper Ramp following the "Vertigo Rap Route".
Dec 21, 2016
Do not belay directly beneath the roof after P1. It is quite the chosspile.
Oct 30, 2016
The lower slabs may look Flatiron like, but they are anything but. For whatever reason, they're super polished. It took great care to find appropriate feet. Not every 5.8 climber may be comfortable with it. The second slab had much more friction and felt a lot better. As for the climbing, it was spectacular. We linked P2+P3 as well as P4+P5. The traverse on P2 was airy and fun. P4+P5 was a 200' jug haul with easy to find bomber pro. We did Bastille before this climb, and Ruper blew it out of the water. This might be my new favorite moderate.
Sep 13, 2016
Climbed this route again just today, and I highly recommend starting with Slimy Spoon, for a couple of reasons. First, it cuts out the slab approach, in favor of two pitches of warmup 5.7-5.8. Secondly, if you descend via the Vertigo rappels, hiking back down that trail will take you straight by the start of Slimy Spoon, so you can just bring packs with if you want and leave them at the base. If you do the ramp approach, you need to rack up at the car. Third, it makes the entire route into an 8-pitch funfest, instead of just six. For the start of Slimy Spoon, we followed this beta, and it steered us right: mountainproject.com/v/the-s….
Mar 29, 2015
This is a really nice climb and frankly the 5.8+ rating seems a little soft. The climb is generally well protected except the beginning of the 4th pitch (which is easy) and the 6th pitch with the traverse (the difficulty can be minimized by focusing on the good feet, instead of the "good" looking chalked hands up high). I think it's important to note that the piton more so flexes than wiggles. I'm still not overly interested in taking a fall onto it, however.
Aug 16, 2014
Climbed this route before work this morning. Three words: fun, fun, fun. We did the lower section as two pitches (P1+P2, P3). This works well if you use long slings to avoid rope drag as you go around the corner. We also did upper Ruper as two pitches with a belay on a sloping stance about 30 feet below the roof (P4+P5, P6). This worked out so well it seems the natural way to do it. The 150-foot combined P4+P5 has got to be one of the great 5.6 pitches in Eldo or anywhere. Consistent, steep, interesting, and festooned with wonderful holds. I believe if that pitch were easier to reach, it would be the most popular pitch in the canyon. What a classic. Can't wait to go back.
Jul 1, 2014
Despite what other comments say, the Lower Ramp approach is definitely the fastest, most direct approach. The west face approach involves significantly more hiking and the scramble to get to the base of Ruper is pretty dicey without a rope (and if you rope up, you'll waste time on junk climbing). Rack up at the car, hike 10 min to the base of the Lower Ramp, put on your climbing shoes, and enjoy the 5.0 warmup. When you get to the top of the ramp, you're at the base of Ruper and you're ready to climb. The pitches are super short, so linking them adds to the climb. Linking 4/5 is a no brainer, and you can also link 1/2 or 2/3 if you're extra careful about rope drag. It would be a fun challenge to link 1/2/3 as mentioned in other comments. Rack is a set of nuts and single cams to #4. Maybe doubles of 0.5 and 0.75 if you want to sew it up. The #4 isn't mandatory but will make you feel better on P2.
Jun 21, 2014
Got kind of psyched out before leading the roof traverse only to find.... it's pretty easy! By staying low, you can basically walk across the ramp below with small but good hands. A pin and okay cam will be at your chest for the crux. While the pro is generally pretty bad for the stretch under the roof, I found the climbing to be only around 5.7 or so. Overall an amazing route and possibly the best 5.8 in the park. We did the Rover variation for P2, and while a little polished, we both thought it was a great pitch! And don't stop after P3, some of the best climbing lies above!
May 6, 2014
As of today, John and I noticed a loose rock the size of a of an espresso machine just at the end of the crux move on the last traverse pitch (pitch 6). We marked it with a white X, but obviously it will not last forever. So, please all be careful!!
Apr 21, 2012
I get the unfortunate honor of ending the debate regarding the upper pin on the roof pitch. It will hold a fall. How do I know? Because it did. Why? Because I suck. I followed my partners advice too literally. He suggested I stay low and left and avoid the sucker holds chalked up higher beneath the roof. So I tried to balance out on the polished rock to the left above that bent up manky pin. Didn't work out so well for me! Scariest thing I've ever fallen onto.
Apr 8, 2012
What a fun piece o' rock! Fun little approach as well!
Jun 11, 2011
I led the first 3 pitches to the Meadow after work with my GF, using just passive pro. No larger pieces. We climbed Exit Stage Left to get off and down before completely dark.
Mar 19, 2011
As with all soloing, always climb within your ability, stay in control, and don't fall!
Nov 28, 2010
Mic Fairchild said: "Bridge to bridge speed record for Ruper is 44 minutes" I did it today, bridge to bridge, in 32 minutes and 11 seconds. It'd be cool to get it under a half hour. Any takers?
Nov 23, 2010
I just climbed this today. Amazing climb. One of the best 5.8s I've ever done. I disagree with the "mandatory" #4. I did this climb without one and felt fine. It is possible to get a good #3 low in the "Ruper Crack" then many good placements for smaller gear begin about 8 feet higher. Even if you don't have the big stuff, this climb is do-able and totally worth doing.
Nov 4, 2010
Gear for lower Ruper. 1 60m rope. No gear needed for belay stations (can sling natural protection or clip bolts on the 2nd), 8-10 2'sling draws, (2) 48" runners, (1) cordellete, one set of small to medium wires, double rack of cams through #1, then only (1) #2, #3, #4. Leave the #3.5 at home (never used). Only used the #2 once one the first pitch. Could probably do without #2 as well.
Sep 23, 2010
Top Rope Hero, it is actually sandstone not granite.
Sep 1, 2010
Holy carrying extra weight, Robin! Leave your large cams at home! So, I'm a total wuss. I read the descriptions here and saw so many people saying you NEED a #4 or #5 cam for the Ruper crack... some said you need 2. And I'm the biggest coward ever, so not knowing what to expect, I lugged one #4 and one #5 up there along with a large hex. At the top of the extremely well protected crack, I still had all the big pro dangling from my harness. In fact, I did not place anything larger than a #1 on the Ruper crack pitch! It took a couple of 0.4 and 0.5 cams, along with many nuts. Save yourself the hassle and do not waste energy lugging the big stuff up there. The only place you might want a #4 (new style C4) is at the very beginning of the crack where you can walk it up until you place smaller pro higher up... even then you probably want to take out the #4 to reduce rope drag. The #5 is completely pointless.
Jun 10, 2010
What a great climb. Thanks to the Bolder Boulder for letting us have it all to ourselves! I plugged in my #4 once and probably could have left it in the car. Linking P4 and 5 was the highlight for me. I thought the pro was pretty good all the way up. I was also able to stuff a #0.4 beside the manky pin on P6, which made the move "feel" easier. The powergel beta is right on...the sun is a bear on the upper three pitches. FYI, we left a gray nut on P1 (partner forgot his nut tool). Should pop right out if you tap it from below.
Jun 1, 2010
Yes, a fine route. No doubt. But I'll stop short of giving it three stars because of the contrivance factor. First, there's the weird, ramp up to the start. (Someone said start low on "The Slippery Spoon," but I couldn't find that, either in the Falcon or on this site...) Then there's the hard right, boot scoot traverse you have to make just to acquire the Ruper crack, instead of taking what seems the natural, Rover line up. Then another traverse, the big 'un. Then that BS ramp weirdness that separates the lower half from the upper. (Big Hint: If you have to change into hiking shoes just to find the rest of the climb, it isn't a "classic.") Finally, a crux "roof" section that isn't really a roof sequence at all, since you cheat it by traversing the face under it. Finally, finally, the whack walk way around the backside, then up again to the beginning of the ramp just to retrieve gear? In my book, I'm thinkin' this isn't all that "classic." Bastille. Yellow Spur. THOSE are Canyon classics. North Chimney of Castleton, now THAT is a classic. Ruper, for me, was just a fine, fun day in Eldo. A "good," two-star climb. But not that much more. DON'T GET ME WRONG. Each individual pitch was delicious, and as a new-to-Eldo climber, this is fast becoming somma my favorite granite on the planet. But lacing the whole of Ruper together was, let's admit it, a bit artificial. Its no Anthill Direct. So why do I care? Because I'm allergic to how softly some stars are tossed, as though every good climb was an instant, all-time classic. This pollutes the ratings pool; and I was expecting far more from this supposed 4-banger. Happy I did it, yes. But likely I will be happy to look for something more before roping up on Ruper again. LEADERS NOTES: Forget the hype of how hard Ruper is. If youre comfortably sending trad 9s, then you can do the entire 5/6 pitches in your approach shoes. If youre great on 8, just bring some Powergels and youll escape. Ruper is steep, sure. But theyre approximately one or two or a gabillion quality, no-hands rests along the way. Don't tie the Subaru to your harness, and youll do fine. And dont fret about the roof. Sure, the protection is shit, but youre on your feet for all but three marvelous monkey moves, all well chalked. Lastly, get on it early and beat the heat; belaying below the P6 roof is like baking your face.
Aug 27, 2009
So far, my all time favorite climb! Nothing but pure fun the whole way (yes don't skip the upper section). My favorite pitches were 4 and 5. Didn't find the belay under the roof on pitch 5 to be that bad, but there is definitely loose rock around. Found some bomber cam placements to back up the pin. I guess I must have missed the spot people are referring to here below the roof. One more alternative descent just in case you get confused like we did. We scrambled up n.w through the obvious rock filled gully to the top of the Dirty Deed rap between Yellow Spur and Swanson's arete. Did the first two raps (bolts then a tree, 60 meter rope) and then traversed over on the red ledge to the top of the West Chimney. Two more raps from chains deposits you at the base of Rewritten in case Ruper didn't give you enough excitement for the day!
Jul 28, 2009
The last three pitches are spectacular. Not to be missed! FYI: The chockstone rap leaves you looking up hill at a small slab to the left of a good sized pine tree. The vertigo rap rings are just on the other side of the slabs arete right in the middle. Get to the rings from the lower left side of this arete. Another set of chains follows. Best way off the wall IMO allowing you to hit dirt in two single rope raps from the upper ramp. mountainproject.com/v/color…
Jun 29, 2009
Well, I'll beat this climb to death a little more. #11 hex (does anyone but me carry them???) fits nicely in quite a few spots, most noticeably the OW pitch 2 crack since I'm too cheap to buy a #4 Camalot. Make sure you make the traverse around the right to the base of the ow before setting up your first anchor; otherwise rope drag sucks. Upper Ruper is incredible (DO IT) and can be done in two rope stretching pitches. I didn't really get any substantial pro in on the traverse to the left under the roof and was ok.
Oct 31, 2008
Great route, with varied climbing. Ron Olsen's beta (from comment above) on where to start off the West Face trail is excellent, and when combined with the Chockstone/Vertigo raps works perfectly, We did the Rover dihedral to pass a party. Bummed to miss out on the Ruper Crack, but the dihedral is super fun and protects very well. We linked P1 of Ruper into the Rover dihedral and belayed at the bolts. We did Upper Ruper in two pitches. We belayed at sloping stance about 20 feet below the roof. The belay at the corner of the roof looked really bad gear wise with bad rock, so use caution if you decide to belay there. Our belay at the sloping stance had bomber gear and was super comfy. There is a ledge about 30' below the sloping stance, and I thought about belaying there, but the gear didn't look that great so I kept going - and was glad I did. 50m pitch or so. The pins+rock on the traverse below the roof are pretty sketchy, but the climbing is straight forward enough. A fair bit of rope drag topping out in one pitch, but manageable. Head up and climber's left to a big gully and descend about 70' to find the Chockstone Chimney raps.
Oct 26, 2008
Michael, I have a gift for you. Matt625@gmail.com
Oct 15, 2008
Got a blue (#1) Metolius master cam stuck under the roof on the final pitch on Ruper today. If you happen to get it out, it'd be cool to get back.
Oct 4, 2008
Aaaaaactually. . .You CAN do the lower in 1 pitch with a 60m rope if you don't over-do your pro. The upper definitely goes in 2 pitches or 1 long if you simul a bit.
Jul 16, 2008
Did this route again for about the 5th time. There is absolutely no reason the upper section should be done in 3 pitches. It goes like a gem in 2 pitches. As a matter of fact, I am now convinced that you can do the lower in 2 pitches as well if you do your first belay at the base of the Ruper crack. Great route, there are no 8s better than the upper section.
Jun 30, 2008
Pins on the upper traverse... today there were three, and it looks like the second one (an angle) is pretty recent + solid. You can get a smallish cam near the third pin, but that seems to be the only decent placement, until you make it above the traverse. Ruper is the definition of classic.
May 5, 2008
Just did Ruper again. Was stunned at how nice it is. P1&2: Needing to make a pass at the start (Ruper is busy), we zig-zagged right, left, right on easy ledges (skipped pro), then up Ruper Crack to the belay bolts with rope to spare. The Crack is great, and I think is the exact same difficulty as the Bastille Crack (which is rated 7). I used an OK #3 at the bottom (too lazy to carry a #4). P3: Dang, that traverse is remarkable! P4: This seemed like the crux today, wandering up continuously steep rock the first 50' looking for placements. P5: More really nice continuously steep climbing with surprisingly large and juggy holds. P6: We thought the "rotten band" was pretty good! Except for the Crack, which sews up with big cams, the team should be solid at the grade, and this traverse is no different. The belay at the start was in the shade while sitting down with good view. We might try the upper section in 2 pitches next time, but the traditional 3 seemed fine. We love going down the East Slabs!
Jul 14, 2007
A couple of comments on this route related to other input above; It seemed very contrived to set a belay at the bottom of the Ruper crack as it is semi-hanging unless you carry gear bigger than what is needed to really protect the climbing. The route itself has a lot of good and sustained climbing but there are some logistics that take away from the experience, such as the 3rd class approach (not bad but tedious), and the 3rd class traverse and down climb to the beginning of the standard 4th pitch. I lengthened the 4th pitch to almost 200 feet and ended in a semi hanging belay about 15 feet below the roof traverse and then easily finished the climb with probably 30 feet of rope left over with a 5th pitch. The beta on the rappels is excellent, just wander from the tree at the top of the climb, avoiding the exposed edge and then when you are above the gully at the top of the ramp you can scramble easily back down a east trending ramp and then find the bolts which leads down to the ledge behind Vertigo. Two more raps and you're down. Much better than the East Slabs descent.
Jun 21, 2007
One of the pins on upper rupper in the rotten band is now gone. I think it was the middle pin. My second gently wiggled it out, and it now resides in my back seat. I hope that nobody has clipped this thing in the last ten years, as it wouldn't have held any weight and is actually S-shaped. Still better than some of the fixed pins I have seen in Eldo.
May 22, 2007
Climbed Lower and Upper Ruper yesterday. Fantastic route! Ran P4&5 together as everyone mentions and found that to be one of the best pitches of trad leading I have ever done. It makes for one long pitch with a little bit of everything (face, vertical crack, lieback). Great call! Even better, I talked my partner (a strong sport leader) into attempting his first trad lead on P1. After cruising that, he felt so good that he volunteered for P3. After cruising the traverse, and after I linked 4/5, he offered to take P6. As expected, he cruised the roof and runout section to the top without a second thought. I was quite impressed. The exposure on P3 and P6 match just about anything you can get in the park and he sent both like a pro. As a side note: we were unable to retrieve the standard #4 in the Ruper crack. I placed it about 10 feet up from the belay, and during the pitch it walked its way back into the crack, and closed itself up such that my second couldn't get it out. He worked on it for over 5 minutes, and even took a nut tool to it, but to no avail. With a growing line of parties at the bottom of P1, we decided that we must move on and call it a loss. If anyone was able to extract the cam, and reads this, it would be much appreciated if you could return it. Thanks in advance.
Apr 2, 2007
Fantastic route. This one has it all. One of my favorites in Eldo.
Mar 21, 2007
As good as it gets, this climb was fun and varied. Some face, some wide crack, some easy slab soloing and a good amount of air. My first climb in Eldo, this was a great start to the day. I was surprised how much fixed gear was on the climb.
Sep 26, 2006
Did upper and lower Ruper today, ultra fun climb!!!!!! The gear sucks through the upper roof, I found lots of pieces to slot, but the rock is so bad I doubt they would have held a fall. The last piton looked ok, my advice, just go for it. As the roof ends you can put in a 1 or 2 Camalot that's solid, you just have to hold on till then. FYI, there was plenty of rope left for the last pitch, so you don't have to set up your belay right under the upper roof. It's better to belay 20-30 feet below the upper roof. I only had 20-30 feet of runout at the top and the climbing is easy (5.5-5.6ish). We also did upper Ruper in two pitches with a 60m rope which I recommend. Don't miss this one!!!!
Jul 22, 2006
Did this with the Rover variation today. Solid .9+ if you do the Rover variation in 1 pitch. Did the whole route in 4 pitches with minimal rope drag. Highly recommend it, nice if you want a finger crack and not an offwidth.
Jun 8, 2006
Got to lead the Ruper traverse on the way to the upper ramp today. Damn left leg started a sewing machine right after the traverse. Annoying as hell! In any case, there are about four fixed, manky cams just before the committing move, three in one place. You can see a chalked up, vertical handhold at about eye level. Reach out with your right hand and extend your right foot to the good foothold just beyond. You should be able to shift your weight onto the foot and be right at a shallow 1.5 inch crack about 7 inches long. I plugged a cam in this cruddy spot and made the mistake of going further right at that level. Don't. It's obvious that a crack now goes directly above you. Better gear placements await you up there, so move on up.
Jun 19, 2005
We did upper Ruper in two pitches, we linked 4 and 5 into a 190ft pitch, really cool to be on lead that long. I used a ton of long runners, got to the roof and got to belay in the shade. My partner then got to climb the whole upper Ruper in one shot.
Aug 21, 2004
A good alternative for the second pitch is the Rover Dihedral(5.9). Fun, clean, not polished, good position, good gear placements, and a direct line.
Apr 19, 2004
As of 3/9/04 each of the first three pitches has fixed gear (cams). On P1 its 2/3 up the crack, and been there for many years. The piece on P2 is newer and 15' up the crack near where a #4 placement might go. On P3, high in an upper corner, just before the Ruper traverse, is an orange TCU. Also, on P6 the lower of the two pins is still there and still moves, doubt it would hold a fall. The upper pin is in better condition and can be backed up with a green Alien in a seam just to its left.
Mar 15, 2004
Downclimbing - yes, I've always thought that would be an interesting way to lead an entire climb - from the top to the bottom. The leader is now the second and the second is now the leader from a risk perspective. Probably a more interesting alternative to spice up easier climbs than speed climbing them. But, it would be tough on a busy day...
Nov 3, 2003
Another good loop is to go up the Rover dihedral and down Ruper....
Nov 2, 2003
What can you say about going up that hasn't been beaten to death? This is one of the great climbs of Eldo, and one of the best 5.8 anywhere. But Derek turned me on to climbing down the lower Ruper to descend from climbs like Rosy Crucifixion at the Upper Meadow. According to notes, my own Rosy up / Ruper down loop was 6 Sept 88. Surprisingly, climbing down is easier on the lower Ruper than going up. The traverse is much more secure, and the crack submits to toe-heel pretty easily. Bridge to bridge speed record for Ruper is 44 minutes luv ya sicmic
Nov 1, 2003
An all-time classic and one of the best routes in Eldorado. The easiest approach is via the trail to the West Face of Redgarden Wall. Take this just past the turnoff to the Kloof Alcove. There's a good flat spot to gear up. The tree below the start of Ruper is directly above you. Climb up to the shelf below Suparete, then scramble right and up following the path of least resistance. Cut back left across the slab to the start of the climb. The best start is in the black-washed corner. It's hard right from the start; get good pro. Aliens and small TCUs work well. After the crux, step right and continue up the corner all the way to its top, then traverse straight right to the belay. Don't traverse right too low or you'll miss some good climbing. I like to belay right on the arete at a small pillar. A #3.5 Camalot is fine for protecting the start of the second pitch; no need for the #4. About 6 feet above this is a good placement for a finger-sized cam; there was a fixed piece here on 10/29/03. On the Ruper traverse, think "good hands and poor feet". Don't step up on the ledge at the start of the traverse or you'll be too high. Use long runners on the fourth pitch (1st pitch of upper Ruper) to minimize rope drag. I like to do upper Ruper in three pitches, and set the last belay right under the roof. The belay pin can be backed up with small to medium cams. This spot provides a good photo angle of the leader at the last-pitch crux. After the crux on the last pitch, head straight up the corner to a roof instead of traversing left on the ramp for more fun climbing. The final headwall to the top is runout 5.5. You can also climb a little farther left and get pro in a small corner system. The easiest descent is via the Chockstone Chimney and Vertigo rappels; see George Bell's and Will Clopton's comments for details. Bring a 60m rope for the Chockstone Chimney rap. Take the Vertigo ledge uphill until it intersects the West Face trail, then amble down to your packs.
Oct 30, 2003
I loved this route. No question it deserves three stars. Descending in the dark really sucked though.
Oct 29, 2003
I did this route for the first time on Sunday. The day started out really foggy but ended very sunny and hot. I got stuck behind a party on the first three pitches so I broke these up the same way they did in to the three that Rossiter suggests. I could really see doiong these three on one or two pitches. Definately two as I ran the first pitch to the base of the crack and slung a flake and belayed at the base. With this stance it would be easy to run the second all the way to the top of lower Ruper. As long as you use some long runners on the traverse. We did the Upper in two pitches thank to the beta on this site. Awesome climbing for two pitches. I stopped the belay abotu twenty feet under the roof. The pins under the roof are horrible, I could probably pull them out with my hands. There are a couple of loose blocks that groaned when I pulled on them. BEWARE: Some of this stuff is going to break off soon. It is probably best to not hang out at the base of the climb when someone is negotiating this roof. One you pull over th roof I got in a great .75 cam (green). Next time I think I might link Rover to Alice in Bucketlands. Must do for anyone climbing at Eldo.
Sep 15, 2003
No worries about that very loose flake described in one of the comments above on the third pitch. My second rode it off the wall yesterday morning. I thumped it as I went by. It sounded real hollow. He gave it a good tug and both he and the flake came off the wall. The rock exploded on the lower ramp. I could see fragments ripping into the trees around it. This thing was a killer-around 150 lbs at least. Everybody was lucky on this one. It was pretty early; around 0800 so there weren't too many folks around yet.We were able to finish the route-whew! I hate it when that happens. When we came down two climbers were in the middle of the ramp...
Aug 25, 2003
While belaying on Rosy C. today, watched a guy lead the first three pitches of Ruper into one very long pitch, using a 60 meter rope.
Jul 31, 2003
Agree with Edward's comments about double ropes, but make it 8.5mm instead of 10mm and you have the perfect set up for Eldo or any multi-pitch climb. And, by the way, Ruper is indeed the best 5.8 in Eldo, closely followed by Gambit in my book. Going up the Rover dihedral on P2 makes a better, albeit slightly more difficult route.
Jul 11, 2003
Honestly, felt more like 5.7--but, this was a lot of fun!!! The first pitch...? I guess we missed it. We just cruised up some ramp to this corner with extreme exposure and ended up at the Ruper Crack. The crack itself was fairly polished and my cams just kept walking back--but, definately earns the 'three-star' rating!
Jul 8, 2003
The picture of Tonya Riggs below serves as an excellent example of why you need to either use quite long runners or preferably double ropes on this route.Of course this applies to almost any Eldo route because of the angles of the natural features. I'm not surprised you got tired, Tonya, it looks like you were already experiencing significant rope drag half way through P4. Personally I don't understand why so may people continue to use single ropes in Eldo when the routes and gear placements are so often not in a straight, vertical line. There is not a single pitch on Ruper that is not significantly easier to manage and safer to climb with doubles than with a single. (An exception might be P2 if you belay from the bottom of the crack). I'd rather climb most Eldo routes with two 10 mm ropes and have the extra weight than mess around with ridiculously long slings and/or the potential for zippering my placements. Doubles aren't just for pasty-white Brits with hangovers!
Jun 30, 2003
dwebsoft.com/Will/Climbing/…
Jun 5, 2003
There are many ways to descend from Upper and Lower Ruper. Here is a link my personal notes describing in detail the rappels down Chockstone Chimney, Song of the Dodo (Vertigo), Predator (Rosy Crucifixion), T2, Redguard, etc. _A HREF='http://www.dwebsoft.com/Will/Climbing/RappelRuper.html'_http://www.dwebsoft.com/Will/Climbing/RappelRuper.html_/A_
Jun 5, 2003
Thanks to Charles Vernon's comment I set the belay for pitch one at the bottom of Ruper Crack. No rope drag and your belayer can watch you. I highly recommend it. Fun route!
Jun 2, 2003
I must comment about this route....I thought I was a solid 5.8 leader until this! I just struggled up P2 on follow...I found the feet to be quite polished and the lay back to require brute strength. Then I took a leader fall on P4. I was able to find protection all the way (including the runout section) and it is a good thing. I just popped off since it was so vertical and I was tired by the time I got there. As everyone says, the route has a bit of everything and it is tiring. For those of you that have led the entire climb...kudos. I think it takes a lot of technique and experience. I would say, save this one until you are comfortably leading 5.9's or else just call me a feable weak female. Having said all of the above...it was my BEST DAY of rock climbing ever. The last three pitches are pure joy. At last, on this trip we found the vertigo rap line and it is the BEST way off. Three raps on a 60M and your on the ground near the Yellow Spur start.
May 31, 2003
What I call "The Vertigo Raps" really starts with a rappel down the Upper Ramp route "Chockstone Chimney" (this route is in Rossiter's Guide but not yet on this web site). One 60m rope works perfectly for this rap. I have done it with a single 50m, but you have to be real careful to go off rappel before the rope ends and downclimb the final 15'. From here you scramble west from the very end of the Upper Ramp, down a short crack to a tree with slings (just west of the final pitch of Vertigo). Two single rope raps get you down from here.
Apr 15, 2003
Tracy: No, you can rap down with one rope west of Vertigo, the "Vertigo Rap Route". It is best to have a 60m for this, from the top of Ruper follow an exposed ledge west up through a notch, then down to the first rap anchor. Look at the first comment under the Yellow Spur for more info or do a search on this site for "Vertigo Raps". This is the best way to get down from anywhere in this area, IMHO.
Apr 15, 2003
Is the East Face Descent the only alternative to descending the route when you have just 1 rope?
Apr 15, 2003
A little gear beta for the wide crack on P2. At the base of the crack, the #4 fits beautifully. Looking up, I thought I might need it later so I back cleaned it after getting a slightly higher piece. I didn't place it again on the pitch. You could leave it at the bottom, but it might make for some bad rope drag. The OW opens up to a squueze chimney about half-way up. Right before opening up, there is a perfect 3.5 Camalot. With that in place you can lie-back the squeeze section (perhaps a litle spicey for the 5.8 leader) rather than grovel up it. Other than that, a standard rack works fine. I'm sure you could do it without the 3.5 or the 4, but it would take a little more creativity and run-out. Don't miss the upper half of this route, it is superb! The beta for linking pitches 4 and 5 was much appreciated. Put together, it was a fantastic pitch of climbing. Definitely stop 20' short of the roof to belay. The rock at the roof sucks.
Apr 12, 2003
Best 5.8 climb in the universe!! make sure you do all 5 pitches. If I had one route to do on the last afternoon before the world blows up, this is it!
Jan 28, 2003
Hey Warren. Read on and see what Ament says about Layton and his 40' whipper on crappy rope. He just brushed it off and finished Rogue's Arete (10a) at Overhang Rock. Yeah, we all might say that Kor was a VERY talented and dedicated climber for use to emulate (note the knee boots on page 11 of "High Over Boulder...").
Dec 15, 2002
My beta for upper ruper: Do a 150' pitch to an alcove about 20' below the roof. As I remember it, I made a move out and left then back up and right around a bulge to gain this ledge. From here, go 164' to the tree at the top. Be judicious in your runners, especially at the start of the roof and any pieces after the rotten band (My rope was about dead vertical from last piece over the entire 5.6 section). The roof, while loose, is not that scary protection-wise. I got a 00 friend in a great placement by the first pin. Just left of pins 2 and 3, there's a great yellow alien placement. If I recall, I think pitch 4 is called 's' by Rossiter. I'd disagree with this; 20 feet up you can get a bomber #6 stopper in above you, and then it's four moves to a great stance where you can get a solid yellow Alien in a slot. I thought this section was the only possible 's' area, and even then it seemed very safe. Upper Ruper is incredible! It's very steep, yet a very forgiving weakness in the wall. Do it.
Oct 21, 2002
I finally got around to climbing the first three pitches of this route. What an awesome climb it is indeed. After the climb I came back home and thumbed through Pat Ament's "High Over Boulder" to see what he had to say about the climb. To my surprise on page 11, there is a picture of Kor (FA) just after completing the traverse. Upon closer inspection I noticed he has NO gear in place through the whole traverse! His first visible piece is on the 5.5 crack that marks the end of it. Now, those who have done this traverse know how extremely exposed it can get out there... Kor, what a stud... WT
Oct 9, 2002
Led P1-3 of this yesterday for the 1st time. If you like sustained .8 crack climbing with exposure, its hard to beat. Suggest bringing two #4 cams for P2 if you have them. Thought P3 upper section to be sandbagged at 5. Great route and challenging for the grade.
Sep 16, 2002
Right after the Ruper "traverse", when you start going up again there is a decent sized flake that you can get a perfect fistjam in. DON'T USE IT !!! I put my fist in it and the whole thing moved out, that was freaky!!!!!
Jul 30, 2002
Alex, Glad you enjoyed this route. It is indeed some great climbing. The Rover dihedral is lots of fun. Of course, you didn't really climb Ruper. I mean, you can't say you climbed Ruper without doing the Ruper Crack! The traverse is cool, airy, and intimidating, but the meat of the route is the Ruper Crack. Indeed one large piece is nice to have for that crack. It all depends on how bold you are. It is indeed nice to climb with a small rack. The size of the crack seems to be in indirect proportion to the size of your...uh...risk tolerance.
Jun 17, 2002
Ruper is also my favorite 5.8 in the park. If one has all day, i would suggest avoiding the slab approach up from the roof routes by going around the corner and doing two 5.8 pitches of The Slippery Spoon (5.8) to the top of the ramp, and starting the route with the art's spar 5.8 start. This makes for eight great pitches of varied 5.8 climbing: clean dihedral, squeeze chimney, finger crack, offwidth, overhangs, face climbing, and exposure! This is the only 8 pitch route i've found in the park, and every pitch is 5.8!
Aug 1, 2001
Quick note of caution - as of Memorial Day 2001, one of the two ancient pins just below the roof at the top of pitch five is no more. I think the right one is sheared off now. Definitely look for that area of good rock 10-15 below the roof that Charles mentioned. If you have a 60m rope and manage it well pulling around the roof, it's possible to combine P5 and P6 and make it to the top (possible, but not recommended - we had about 2 feet of rope left).
Jul 13, 2001
A pitch-by-pitch account. What the hell, I'm bored. Read or skip. To get to the base: Hike up to the Lower Ramp, which is the long, low-angled ramp that rises just beyond the long, low rising roof. This area is a bit uphill from Cest la Vie: follow the streamside trail, then cut uphill on another trail shortly after passing the huge concrete slab below the Whales Tail. Or go round the corner to the west and uphill from Cest la Vie. Scramble (or belay) up the ramp to trees and blocks at its top, and then go right to a level spot below a clean, short corner with a good crack in the back. Alternate approach: Hike the Streamside trail around to the West Face of Redgarden and follow the climbers access trail up some switchbacks. Stop just before a clean arete (Superarete), with the route Superslab and Vertigo towering overhead and slightly uphill. Directly above, and right of Superarete is a broken area with trees on top. Scramble into a scoop and head sharply up right to gain the top of the Lower Ramp, then head left to the start. P1 - Climb the short corner, nice 5.8, and head up and right to an alcove below a large overhanging corner. Avoid the 5.8 if desired by climbing over an overlap to the right at about 5.6 or so. The large corner is the Rover variation; belay here if doing it. If doing the Ruper crack, continue up right to a platform and belay there or further right on a sloping ledge directly beneath the wide crack. P2 - Rover: climb the fantastic corner and head right at its top to a 2-bolt belay. Ruper: climb the wide 5.8 crack and when it ends, head left (also 5.8) on flakes to the same belay. P3 - Traverse right along a loose ledge, climb up right through short, clean corners, into another shallow corner. Go straight up to a tree and the Upper Ramp, passing a VERY loose flake (which appears solid) just before the belay. Great exposure and thought-provoking climbing. Traverse across the upper ramp to the west end of a large cave (4th/5th class). Hike down past the cave to the first continuous corner system (left-facing). Climb that for two more excllent, vertical 5.7-5.8 pitches (or one 200 footer) to a large roof above a rotten band. Though there is a fixed pin belay right at the roof, I recommend belaying 10-15 ft. lower on much higher quality rock. The last pitch traverses around the roof by going up left through the rotten band (with rotten pro) at 5.8, then up easier, though somewhat runout rock to a tree at the top.
Jan 1, 2001
You can also do a nicer first pitch by taking the clean right facing dihedral with thin crack about 15 feet left of the original start. This is the Art's Spar start and is 5.8..... Did this yesterday as well as the Rover variation 2nd pitch...AWESOME overhanging crack in a large left facing and angling dihedral...., SOLID 5.9 with no rests.
Jan 1, 2001
Has anybody heard the story of the knuckle-head that got his knee stuck in the 2nd pitch and hung for 7hrs? If so then please email me with your version. Thanks in advance!
Jan 1, 2001
- Ruper to Grand Giraffe
Actually I have not created anything - the route appears in old guidebooks as its own line (i.e. Rossiter's older BCS book) but is not printed in more recent books. It was rated 5.8+. I'll look to the new book coming out next year for more info. This pitch in particular is in the 8/9 range as you and I have agreed, and that is what the rating I have suggested reflects.
Sep 2, 2008
Tony, I'm not surprised there are no comments for 5 years on this one. You seem to have created a route out of thin air. It is just a slight variation to the "regular" Grand Giraffe. It is excellent though, as I have just climbed both variation in the last two months. To do it, just start up Ruper and continue more or less straight up taking the most direct and obvious line for 50 feet or so. Step right a few feet and climb the left of the two left leaning cracks (one pin near its start) for 50 feet to the large ledge which is the start of Rossiter's P3 of Grand Giraffe. The right crack with two pins near its start is the P2 described in Rossiter's Grand Giraffe. He mentions the left crack in his P2 description as "The slot to the left is 10 and seldom done". We thought this was a great pitch, interesting, direct, pretty well protected and sustained at 8/9, not quite 10, 100 feet, and a great way to combine the first two pitches of Grand Giraffe. Your rating of 5.8+ is misleading as the easiest route above, Grand Giraffe, is 10a which you are pretty well committed to.
Jan 6, 2008
- Short Arm Inspection.
- Smoke & Mirrors
Since I climbed this as an afterthought post-Yellow Spur recently, I didn't have the details handy, so just followed my nose. I continued straight up from the last bolt, then angled LEFT, which deposited me at a dwarf tree a few feet right of the last pitch of Yellow Spur. This diversion yielded some fun 5.6-5.8 climbing and access to the YS arete finish, but not much pro to be found.
Feb 14, 2015
How to find this route: Approximately 15-20 feet up from the Chockstone Chimney rap rings you can traverse into a series of semi-detached flakes (for lack of a better word - they are really more like small spires) on the north side of the gully. Climb behind the flakes at 4th or low 5th class, aiming for the highest one. When you can't get any higher or further west in the flake system, look straight up for the red-painted bolts. The first one is 8-10 feet off the ground, the second around 20, and the third around 40. Because they are camoflauged, they are really hard to see. Also, instead of cutting hard right we went straight up after the crux. Seemed relatively mellow, and you can belay up at the normal Yellow Spur final belay.
Sep 13, 2011
One fookin' rad F.A.
Aug 14, 2010
It is possible to get in some small gear after the crux, if you are worried about your second. There is a small, horizontal crack (blue Alien, green C3) and a small nut placement before you traverse right. We finished up and left to the top of the Yellow Spur. This is a fun and well-protected face climb that would be a good finish any route.
Apr 6, 2008
Did this route on 3/17 as a night cap to a Rover->Ruper->Italian Arete day. S&M was a great route that will improve with some clean up as it sees more traffic. Similar climbing but with more fun moves to Laughing at the Moon. Finding the start took a few minutes as the bolts are painted, but keep heading up from the Chockstone Chimney to the climbers left until you see the bolts.
Mar 18, 2007
Brandon Fritts here - I am back on the scene and doing good
Aug 29, 2004
Wow, I can't believe a free soloist could fall off this route and survive, it's so high off the deck. I found a web site that has a list of accidents in Eldo going back to 1958: fourteeners.freeservers.com… Anybody know how Brandon is doing?
Jun 14, 2004
Was an accident on this route recently, not sure on the details.
May 27, 2004
This is a nice way to finish Grand Giraffe, rather than the standard finish (which I've never done). I didn't think this felt any harder than 10a onsight. Pretty sustained, good pro where you need it. Nice climb.
May 23, 2004
Actually since Smoke & Mirrors was first done as a solo and later bolted I think this shows that good routes would be done. There are quite a few examples of routes that were first done as solos - Blind Faith is probably the best known around here. Sometimes the person returns to it to add bolts after getting input from 'the community'. I imagine that you all would be surprised to know that even I've done this (in Arizona). Mic did a good route with S&M. A better anchor on top might not be a bad idea.....
Oct 30, 2003
In 1986, while on the Redgarden Wall, I watched Mic solo the West Buttress of the Bastile. While it looked stunning from our vantage point, my suspicion is that if all FAs went in on a solo-first basis, we'd not have a lot to climb. Not so many climbers either.
Oct 29, 2003
From the stance after doing the crux (the third bolt), it is possible to follow the line more directly straight-up instead of traversing too far right. The leader can get natural pro at a "hole" above that bolt, and continue straight up to include climbing that is more 'in character' above the crux. The belay for this corner variation is just a few feet uphill of the standard belay/rappel stance described elsewhere. I have also found that Body Tremors makes a nice approach pitch to S&M, so a link-up like Super Slab-Body Tremors-S&M makes a three-star day. Enjoy!
Oct 20, 2003
It'd be a great (and different) world if all routes were done as free-solo first ascents. This little pitch represents my ideal for a new route: great position, interesting climbing, and bold creation. This climb was done after EXPLORATORY SURGERY (WRONG WAY UP the downclimb). The route was unviewed, unrehearsed, and uncleaned. The route was submitted to the FHRC and was the only climb approved for bolts in the summer of 1998. -- Sic Mic Ed: So yes, free soloed then retro'ed a year later. Once I got back to the base the first time, immediately climbed again to scope bolt placements.
May 29, 2003
I thought this was a really fun and continuously difficult pitch! The position of this climb is fantastic, and many Eldo climbers don't even know it exists. A cool (but very easy) finish is to continue to the summit of T1 and then do the standard downclimb of the sharp NW arete, all this is easily done in one short pitch from the rap anchor. Does anybody know how this route was established? Did Mic free solo it and then add the bolts, or rope solo it? Pretty amazing either way.
Mar 16, 2003
If you only have one rope, you can scramble down to the saddle where Ruper ends then scramble back right to the top of Chockstone Chimney, rap to the base of Body Tremors then rap west from a tree with slings near the top of Mickey Mouse Nail Up to the top of Dodo where there is a bolted anchor and one more rap to the Vertigo ledge
Jun 5, 2002
You can rap with two ropes from slings with rings down to the Italian Arete. Start by rapping down the slab towards the saddle then cut left down the face and into the top of a large chimney with two Metolius rap bolts. Another two rope rap puts you at the base of Body Tremors.
Dec 11, 2001
The route will become a better route with more traffic or cleaning. At the moment (11/23/01) there are still a few questionable holds and quite a bit of lichen. The route is bolted, but is by no means a sport climb. You will either place gear between/after bolts or have some significant runouts. The rap from above can get you back to the start of the climbing with a 70M rope, I had 2 meters to spare at the end, and you would NOT want to try it as such with a 60M. I believe that a shorter rope could be used to rap down to a lower point in the saddle and then again off to Body Tremors or Italian Arete, but I do not know what the second anchor would be.
Nov 26, 2001
- Song of the Dodo
The lower crux could maybe be 11b if one stayed true to the dihedral. I chose to step right, and it appears as though this is the commonly followed path. This way it feels about 10+.
Jun 10, 2013
The missing bolt has been replaced. Thanks to ACE for allowing this replacement.
Jun 1, 2011
As of last week, the bolt was still missing. The fall from the crux would be pretty bad without that bolt. The hole and sleeve (I think) were still there....
Mar 10, 2010
Has the last bolt been replaced yet?
Mar 10, 2010
Was the bolt pulled because it lies right below a rap station? Great route, I vote the bolt goes back in. Granted the lower part is a bit serious, and it felt all of 5.11. I'm guessing theres an efficient way to do the bottom, and a not so efficient way. I'd be happy to help put the bolt in. Weather has been puuurrrrfffeeeccccttt.
Jan 13, 2010
GEAR ALERT. As of 1 November 2009, the top bolt is missing.
Nov 2, 2009
I can agree with that. I've never had any problem on the bottom, but have never been able to free the crux up high, though I can usually work out 12a.
Sep 20, 2008
Great route, good fun to toprope, and I don't think it's as scary a lead as the other comments would indicate. The lower section in the dihedral is not even close to 11b, probably more like mid-10, and when you're at the crux, there a bomber small nut and blue Alien just a few feet below you. You can also get more gear during the lower crux, though it's a little hard to place. It is more runout finishing up the dihedral section, but the climbing is probably 8 or 9. I think that if you have any chance at getting the top, true crux in the bolted section, then the bottom half shouldn't be a big deal. -Scott
Sep 18, 2008
WOW! What an amazing route. Definitely could be a little scary through the 11b section, but if you can commit to the moves, it flows so nice! The gear is scarce, but it gave me enough courage to make the moves. (It also helped that I did it a couple of times on TR first.) After passing the mental crux, the movement through the 12a section is one of the coolest sequences I've ever done. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED...as a TR or as a very fulfilling lead (if you are comfortable with a committing runout).
Sep 16, 2006
Maybe it's just me, but the moves in the dihedral down low seemed more like 10-, and the headwall more like mid-12. This seems odd since I'm a boulderer, so theoretically the bottom should have felt harder than the top. Either way, that move into the sidepull with your left is pretty cool, and the slopey topout is painfully greasy...mmmm....
Apr 10, 2002
You hit the head on the nail, Pat: scary lead, great toprope, sequential 12a moves. Since it falls right under the rap route it makes a great toprope, as long as there aren't people rapping down above you.
Aug 1, 2001
- South Face of Tower One
A good bit of lichen on this one, but it's definitely worth doing. I did find the first pitch crux to be a bit spicy, so I'd echo other comments about being solid on 5.10 climbing.
Feb 20, 2012
Funny that someone should just mention that the pin is good. My friend took a 4-foot fall onto the pin yesterday, which not only pulled, but also expanded the flake such that other gear in the flake pulled out and he ended up taking a 30-foot whipper. So, the pin is no longer there. However, as I recall from doing this route a couple of years ago, there is a perfect slot for a #3 Camalot just below where the pin was. This should adequately protect the section. Without that #3 this pitch will likely feel pretty sketchy.
May 18, 2009
So, I led this route last Friday. Cool, we had the whole canyon to ourselves, good line. My first line in Eldo. I'll be back for sure. Oh, no need for all the Hype. The pin is good. :o
Mar 17, 2008
An old timie route with lots of hype not climbed much. Sounds good to me. Think I'll lead it this week. Cool.
Mar 9, 2008
I felt cheated on the crux pitch. With all of the hype the crux pitch gets, I was expecting some hard moves above iffy gear. This may be the easiest 5.10c at Eldo. If you bring the right gear, it is also very well protected. The money pitch is the 50-60ft roof traverse on pitch 2. I think this 5.9+ pitch is a more demanding lead than the "crux" pitch.
Mar 2, 2008
A very worthy route, esp if you're tired of the same old, same old. Its rarely traveled status gives it an old time (licheny) feel. This reach impaired climber found the crux to be solid for the grade, for first thing that pops into my head comparison's sake, harder than XM. That said, the crux is literally one move with much easier climbing immediately before and after and it is well protected -- I was able with some difficulty to reach right at the start of the crux and place a solid #4 RP sized micro nut. I can't believe people don't rave about the second pitch which is continuous, well protected and somewhat out there. It might be possible to approach this pitch from the end of Body Tremors with a little downclimbing if you don't feel like messing with the first pitch.
May 28, 2005
Finally led the crux pitch last weekend but didn't have time to do the last two pitches. The middle pitch is what I really want to do. This felt barely S to me, with 2 big cams below the pin and a nut at the pin. The move right felt easy to me, maybe 10a if you can reach far enough sideways. After the move right you can get a microcam in the flake that I'm sure would hold body weight, but not much more, since the flake is thin. This provides a bailout option if you need it. The moves above are only 8 or 9 to the shallow corner. The hard part for me was getting the gear in the corner. My fingers latched into the hole that takes the best cam. I got a decent brass nut higher, but wasn't totally happy. The moves into the corner are annoyingly difficult. Maybe only 9, but you don't want to risk falling. I know that my description makes this sound pretty much like an S climb, but I felt pretty safe as opposed to, say, on Backtalk, also 10c S, on which you risk a huge fall on climbing of similar difficulty with no chance for gear until the bad pin.
Mar 11, 2005
Some notes, having just done the first pitch Saturday before being rained off, then the whole thing on Sunday. The pin on the first pitch is not that great- It's OK, but not great. I'd loathe to fall far on it. THe #4 or #3.5 Camalot below is a decent placement in dubious rock. The next piece down is some distance. It is certain that to feel good about this lead you either have to be solid at the grade (confident you won't fall) or capable of convincing (fooling) yourself that the gear is good. Next note- this climb is easily done in 2 pitches with a 70M rope- one to the top of the tower above the first good ledge in the corner (~160') and then one out left under the roof and up the yellow Spur Arete (~215').
Jun 14, 2004
...I replaced the pin a few months ago, on the lead, while doing "Mushy Peas." It was ...and came out very easy. Now there is a well-placed #4 Lost Arrow. The crack, however, is expanding so I wouldn't put much faith in the pin alone. When I whacked the pin in, the crack opened up enough to squeeze in a #0000 cam and a #3 Camalot can be placed about 1 ft. underneath it, so it doesn't feel as scary as when I led it 6 or 7 years ago. --B.B.
Jun 21, 2002
AC, there are a lot of "good" pins that I don't want to fall on, I try to avoid falling. Which ones do you "want" to fall on? Sign your name. Decent does not mean good, [relatively] dangerous means just that. I appreciate the constructive suggestions, I really do not want to mislead anyone about this route, as I have said it IS dangerous. All things considered I should probably revise my [assessment] of the pin. I DO NOT KNOW if it would hold a fall, if you think you will end up testing it, don't try this climb. The pin holds body weight and this is significant even if it is not an aid climb because If you can take before the crux to help avoid a dangerous fall in my opinion it is worth noting. This route is not for everyone, the crux is not the only dangerous part. I am not trying to dupe people into trying a dangerous route and I am sorry if that is the impression people got. I enjoyed this route and will do it again. Tony, thank you for your suggestions, will consider what you said when adding routes in the future.Peace..................
Jun 11, 2002
Tony, Damn right about that comment on Alec Sharp 5.11s! It is amazing that guy could get off the ground with balls that big. His routes are, in general, extremely serious. Most of the time his routes are marked S or VS, though. Bill
Jun 11, 2002
Bryson, Thanks for the info- I've been thinking about returning to this route. I was on this route in 1999 and I seem to remember being highly suspicious of the pin, which is why I asked. I also remember thinking that the right sized large cam (maybe #4) would have fit somewhere around the pin (above or below, can't recall) but I remember dismissing that thinking it might dislodge a block and send it as a missile at my belayer. Sounds like the same pin I saw. I think your comment added provides an assessment of the pin that is detailed enough for all to get your point.In hindsight, maybe this is a point to make in the original post about fixed gear. Hopefully that is taken as a constructive suggestion. I posted my question about the pin as an AC- Sorry about that. I forgot to click in my name. I am not the one, however, who was shouting about the pin later. I am sorry to see that an AC is trying to get some weird satisfaction out of slamming you. AC, For my own part, I try not to shout and I honestly try to sign everything I post and when I comment on a route. I also make sure I let people know if I have actually been on it or not- and base my comments on my own individual experience -- if the writers don't do this, it can get very difficult for readers to separate the hyperbole from the facts. For example, Bryson made his info clear, and George gave an opinion, but stated clearly that it was a general statement and that he'd not been on this route. I have no idea if you've done the route and if I had not, I'd be wondering just how bad the thing is, because you seem emphatic about how awful it is, but I don't know if you've ever even looked at it. Also, signing your name to a post is critical info, so that a pattern can be established. People may say "Gee-wiz, I can climb that because JohnDoe is very conservative about what he calls and S" or "I am not going to attempt that because in my experience, JohnDoe is a sandbagger." For my own part, I frequently use the FA information in guidebooks to make healthy decisions about my route choices. By way of example, I generally don't try to do Alec Sharp 5.11's or Derek Hersey S-rated routes while on-sight leading. Hopefully this can also be taken as constructive.
Jun 11, 2002
I agree, if the pin barely holds body weight, it is not decent! But I take Bryson's comment to say definitely take a screamer for that piton (not that you'll see me on this route).
Jun 11, 2002
How can a pin be decent despite someone not wanting to fall on it? But, and this is supposed to be reassuring, it can hold bodyweight? What good is that, except to bail? It's not an aid route. The pin is INDECENT!
Jun 11, 2002
The pin is decent, it will hold body weight but I wouldn't want to fall on it. I didn't have much time to inspect it but my partner said it was driven into a block that didn't look very securely attached to the slab. I didn't see any way to back it up but I got a good ballnut about 6 feet below the pin and a good TCU about 8 feet above the pin. The rock through this section is solid but it is still relatively dangerous....
Jun 10, 2002
Is the fixed pin on the first pitch worth anything? I seem to remember it being pretty questionable in 1999. Can you back it up?
Jun 10, 2002
- Super Slab
Pitch 1 still felt 10c/d with said foothold gone. Bomber nut is in crux pin scar, my partner didn't remove it. Lucky for next party! Lots of super climbing on superslab with the superarete start. So much super!
Nov 13, 2017
Condition report: on 11/5/17 the good foot hold at the lip of the small overhang on P1 broke off (right below the ring piton, 15' or so from the start). It is probably a letter grade or two harder now.
Nov 7, 2017
The critical pro slot is becoming quite flared. The climbing directly up to it was not too hard, and it really helped to be able to see it. No fixed pro as of now. The runout seemed only about 12 feet above the bomber bolt. Also the belay ledge is sloped, so an impact would deflect the leader out into space. Still....
May 29, 2017
I've avoided this climb for years due to fear of the runout on pitch 4. I don't think it deserves its reputation. It's got good gear. No real need to place it blind either, the feet are there. Go get on it. Stellar technical climbing and amazing position!
Mar 17, 2017
I too hesitated to get on this one because of its leg breaking reputation. Honestly, I don't think it deserves it. A fall is possible at the crux, but with a good belayer, you should only end up with scrapes from the slide down the slab. The gear is small but good. Once you commit to the step over, there's only a couple moves until you can get a good 0.3. If you were to fall before the 0.3 and the crux gear were to pull, you'd be in trouble, but there is good feet. Another great Eldo climb.
Sep 6, 2016
There now is a fixed black Alien at the crux on P4 in the small dihedral after the bolt. Reward for anyone that rescues Sonia's Alien.
Aug 7, 2016
Not blind at all. A lot of fixed gear is found through out route, none at the crux though. I was able to place a purple C3 and a gray/purple offset Mastercam at the crux, still I wouldn't want to fall on them. I waited for this route until I had a handful of 11 leads in Eldo under my belt. Super fun climb, classic for sure.
Apr 12, 2014
I've been scared of this climb for a long time. I've waited for quite a while until I was confident I could do it without falling on the crux, but it's totally doable and I don't think it deserves the reputation it gets. Don't get me wrong, it could end bad if you don't place the gear right. Though the top pitch is exciting, hang in there and place a good TCU with a decent RP above. I felt this protected the crux enough. It would be a bad day if the gear blew, but you can get it in there well. Do the extra move to be able to see the placement instead of doing it blind.
Jul 27, 2013
I now recall the 1966 ascent that Bob Culp and I made as being one of the outstanding climbs of my career as an alpinist. The 4th pitch was made using exactly 1 point of aid, since there was a pre-existing piton placed in the niche where a toe hold could have been used otherwise! I recall yelling up to Bob that I thought we could have free climbed this entire pitch had that piton not interfered. Every other move on that lead was done entirely free by rigorous no falls standards in Kronhofer Kletterschue and hauling along an ironmongery of pitons and hammers. We simply said it "was very hard 5.9."
May 11, 2013
Bob Culp and I did this climb in early November of 1966. We used no more than 4-5 points of aid at the time and were placing/pulling pitons. We really didn't have any concept of how hard it was and simply were still calling everything this difficult "hard 5.9." See my photos recently added! Not too shabby in Kronhofer Keltterschue and using a Columbian rope.
Apr 18, 2013
I placed a number 1 Ball Nut and a small cam (blue Alien) in the pin scar. I didn't have a lot of time to inspect, but the ballnut seemed pretty slammer. A number 2 might work a little higher in the pin scarred section. I expected the pitch to feel a lot scarier than it ended up being. It sure is a spectacular pitch!
Nov 7, 2012
My good friend, San Diego Mountain Rescue member and uber nice guy, Adam, took a 40' fall from the crux of pitch 4 yesterday, hitting the belay ledge, resulting in multiple compression fractures of the tibia and fibula, as well as a serious sprain of the ankle/foot on the other leg. We self rescued to Grand Giraffe ledge where we were met by members of Rocky Mountain Rescue, who lowered Adam to the trail and carried him out on a litter. Thanks to everyone on the RMR team, the local FD and Sheriff's office!!! We had to leave a little gear at belay ledges 2 and 3 of Grand Giraffe; a sling, a nut and a few biners, nothing of any real consequence (the sling and cordalette on belay ledge 2 where already there). We did, however, have to leave a red and an orange Alien and a few slings on P4 of Super Slab. If the next team up this route wants to return my Aliens, I will gladly get back to Boulder soon and buy them dinner and beers at Southern Sun. :-) Adam is doing well, in good spirits, and will have surgery on his leg when he gets back to SD.
Apr 25, 2012
I don't think there is a need to relocate that bolt, if the TCU rips the fall would be horrifying, but you'd pitch past the far side of the ledge where it isn't much of a ledge anyway, and the belayer can be a couple feet to the right standing on the ledge and be out of the flight path.
Dec 11, 2011
Not that anyone needs any more beta on this, but I thought I would second that the bolt is fine where it is. The stance for placing gear is decent and if you fall at that point I don't think you're going to hit anything. I was able to place a small offset brass and and the aforementioned purple 0 Mastercam (green c3 equiv.) before committing to the hard moves. I also had 2 fingertips in the slot above my gear to get my feet up. I can see why people say that TCUs are more likely to pull out. A flexible stem cam (Mastercam, Alien, c3) is more ideal for this placement. I was scared off by the "reputation" of this climb for awhile when it turns out it really was not too dangerous for the solid 5.10 leader. Just make sure you get good gear before the crux because if that gear comes out if you fall above it then yes, you'll take a long enough fall to injure yourself. The moves on this pitch are SO good. If you're solid at 5.10 and know how to place gear in Eldo, then do this route. You'll be happy you sacked up. It's by far the best 5.10 I have climbed in Eldo. Unique and exquisite the whole way up.
Oct 12, 2011
I did this route yesterday and here are my thoughts. The bolt is in a great spot, I do not think moving it up would be a good idea. At the crux, you can get a bomber #5 BD RP in the bottom part of the flake. I fell probably a good 10-12 feet on it, and it held. Great line, it is soooo fun. All pitches are very fun at their respected grade.
Aug 1, 2011
The proposal to move the P4 bolt and resolution of the issue is discussed here: climbinghouse.com/2011/06/s…
Jun 30, 2011
Led P1 and followed P4 on my first go with this route recently. Awesome climb. I will say that P1 seemed easier than P4 (and I tend to be more of a slab climber). Regarding P4, we did have a small piece of rock break off around the crux and for my $$, it looked like there may have been a few other recent "break-offs." Since I have no previous experience on this one, I can't say if/how the final pitch might be impacted. Regardless, I think full-on afternoon sun adds a letter grade or so for P4!
Jun 24, 2011
Nice catch, Dave. Let's get out soon. What, no gear at the crux? I agree with the helmet thing. Might start wearing one myself.
May 6, 2011
One of the best catches of my climbing career occurred on the 4th pitch, and the climber wasn't even on my rope. Eons ago, Jim Ghiselli and I climbed the Doub-Griffith to arrive at the shared, last pitch ledge with Super Slab. Another team climbing SS had arrived first, so Jim & I set up our belay just below. While Jim led the also slightly dicey D-G, the unmistakeable sound of a falling climber grabbed my attention. The other party's leader hurtled straight towards me. She fell 35 feet, past her belayer, landing right in my arms, shaken but unhurt, without a bobble to my belaying Jim. After a 15 year hiatus, led 4th pitch of SS yesterday, and given the history of this pitch, did not even try to place gear at the crux. Spicy! Made me consider buying a helmet.
May 6, 2011
An even better finish is to avoid going left at the top of the last pitch instead turn the small roof and head up and right in a small dihedral. As far as I know, this was first done by Malcolm Daly in the '80s.
Apr 27, 2010
I got the onsight on this route yesterday. I'm a 10+ leader. I would not say that the route is R or S rated, although it also is not super G rated either - probably more like PG13. Gear beta below. At the top of the 5.9 section (which protects well with small stuff) there is a bolt, which is far enough up that with a good belay you should be protected fine from a ledge fall until the next gear opportunity. As you climb even with the left corner system, you can get a green Alien in to the right of it (although only two good lobes, but I think it would hold the at-that-point 2' fall potential). At that point you move left into the corner and have a fine stance from which you can see to place either a good small nut, a 0 Mastercam (purple, what I did), or a black Alien. This will protect you safely to the top of the 10+ section. As of 8/5/09 there was no fixed gear.
Aug 6, 2009
For me the last pitch was definitely the crux, balancy and thin. I placed green Alien in some slot to the right of dihedral (I would not want to fall on it though), and then a black Alien a little higher. SPICY. and just don't fall....
Mar 14, 2009
The last couple of times on the 4th pitch I have placed a green C3 and a purple C3 in the pin-scar. Both are pretty good and you can place them from a wide stem out to a small dime edge flake on the left. The stem allows full inspection of the cams before commiting to the crux moves. Still one of my favorite routes in the canyon! The 1st pitch is the pumpy crux for me and the 4th is the technical crux. No fixed gear in the pin scar as of 3/2/09.
Mar 2, 2009
Oh goodness. Finally ticked this one off today. P1 was definitely crux for me, way more techy and strength-related. P2 was nice, but P3 was terrifying! I followed P3 and pretty much hugged the arete around the corner; very blind and very exposed. P4 was incredible and seemed relatively easy to protect. I slotted a solid brass from a blind stance, made a move, then shoved a bomber black Alien in (apparently I shoved a little too much, since it got stuck). Sweet moves and definitely protectable. Great stuff, great climb.
Nov 18, 2008
Did this route again today. This is the best route in Eldo imo. Fixed gear is gone on the crux. Bomber purple TCU. The third time I have placed it in the crux.
Aug 6, 2008
There is currently a fixed nut protecting the crux. The nut looks welded into the crack; I fell on it and it held. Here's some beta on the crux moves: the description/topo in the Rossiter book makes you think you should climb the face right of the corner. However, it is easier to climb up the corner, with one foot on each side of the corner. (Doing the crux this way has the advantage that you can inspect the nut in the corner before committing. The commenters on this page who refer to a "blind placement" are doing the climb the harder way, to the right of the corner.) There are some good hand holds on the mini-arete and back in the corner. The better feet are on the face left of the corner, but the feet just right of the corner are also OK.
Oct 28, 2007
Great climb!, One of the best in Eldo!!! I read these comments before doing this climb, I wish I hadn't. The Run out at the top.... what? This route has tons of gear, is well protected, and the "super slab" should never put you in the hospital with any level of injuries. As 0f 5/21/07 there is a great deal of fixed stoppers to protect all the "super slab" crux moves. Do not believe the hype, get on this route, enjoy it, and write about how well protected it is. Falling 30 feet? who was your belaying you? The final crux move can't be more then 8 feet above the bolt = 16 foot fall plus close to 10 feet of slack. Like I said anyone who is reading this should get on this route it is amazing, do not worry at all about falling far. Even if the fixed gear does pull (or what ever you blindly place) and you are caught by the bolt.
May 21, 2007
Took the big fall (30 ft) on Saturday on the crux pitch. I had done this climb several times in the past, and I remember telling George that I'd never fallen on that 4th pitch. I couldn't seem to get a small cam to seat very well, I was wearing really soft shoes that didn't want to hold an edge, and maybe the sun was in my eyes or something - but I ended up pulling the small cam and falling 30 feet onto the bolt (and a certain Christine, who was gettting ready to follow the Doub-Griffith). Good news, the bolt held and nobody was seriously hurt. Went back up and slotted a perfect RP placement in the spot where the cam was.
Apr 24, 2007
I have to go with Guy on this one, the crux placement wasn't blind at all. A little pumpy to place but definitely inspectable and safe.
Apr 6, 2007
Wow, It's probably been about 8 years since I led the 4th pitch and I forgot how committing it is. I certainly wouldn't want to fall doing the move. Spicy.
Apr 6, 2007
The placements on P4 are not blind. Every placement can be inspected. It is possible to get small gear every 2-3ft in the shallow LF corner, if you want to hang out and place them. I thought fiddling in the gear was the best part of the pitch.
Apr 6, 2007
I hope all of the future ascentionists who haven't done the route a million times read MP so they know exactly which piece to blindly stuff into the slot and I guess they'll know exactly where. Of course those who could figure out the blind placement probably couldn't do the moves anyway.....
Apr 6, 2007
You can get a great "Black Alien" (with purple webbing) totally blind from here. If you can't place the gear, ya probably won't be able to do the move anyway. Waaay good like it is right now.
Apr 5, 2007
Great climbing, but it's too bad about the pro on the 4th pitch. Although a decent piece could be placed above the bolt, it is really hard to get into position to see to do so. What will happen instead is a blind placement, as reflected by the other posts here, that is most likely to rip out in a fall, the consequences of which could be quite severe. When I had done this route years ago, there was always a pin that could be blind clipped from the good stance. It looked to me like the slot would take a good pin and maybe even still allow for backup brass or TCU placement. Since there are already a zillion pins on the route, it would seem to make sense to put the pin back in. This route should definitely get a big "S" for an on-sight leader at or near their capability.
Apr 5, 2007
My experience with the gear placements in the old pin scar was similar to that of Greg's. I also used a grey and purple Metolius TCU and was looking directly at the placements rather than placing them blindly. After moving through the corner, I placed a brass nut and promptly fell onto it, ripping it out and dropping my 225 lb onto the cams. They held and I was able to finish the route. The stance to the left of the corner is a tenuous stem on small edges but worth the effort I suppose to get in solid gear under direct visualization. See Ivan's pics of Chuck above for this approach to the corner.
Feb 22, 2007
I agree completely with Chris Beh's comment above, Aliens are definitely going to hold better than TCUs at the crux. Also, I've been able to get very good small Aliens (2) a few feet above the start of the lieback crux, although it required stemming a bit left of the crack and not going straight into the lieback initially.
Nov 25, 2006
I've seen 2 people take that same fall and pull gear. The first was a woman in the late 90s, she pulled the pin, probably the last one before everyone gave up putting it back in. The 2nd pulled a TCU and knocked me off my stance while I was belaying my partner on the last pitch of the DG. Neither were really hurt. A couple of thoughts on gear and beta for the crux of the 4th pitch. I suspect the TCUs pull because the long trigger bar and stiff stem creates a fulcrum point that levers it out of this placement where an Alien with its longer, flexible stem and shorter trigger can't create a fulcrum point. I gave up TCUs because of this levering issue in some placements. My beta for entering the corner is to commit and move up before placing the gear. This way you get to use that slot for a hold with no gear in it which IMO is way easier than if it is filled with pro. Then, when you do place the gear it is easy to see what you're doing. If you relax and get on your feet, you can drop both hands here...put the gear in first before trying this stunt :-).
Nov 24, 2006
FWIW, there was a proposal submitted to the FHRC for a bolt to replace the yet-again fallen-out pin at the crux some years back. It was a healthy discussion, and it was quite controversial, but the proposal did not pass. I recall a now-deceased climber relate a similar experience where she broke ribs taking a similar fall at that meeting. Anecdotally, I recall following Roger Schimmel, a well-seasoned Eldo climber, on this around that time and his pro pulled out very, very easily with a test yank.... Best not to fall & to consider it R or S.
Nov 22, 2006
Did this classic a couple of years ago. P1 was way harder (but safer) for me than the crux pitch. I guess that shows my strengths/weaknesses. I don't recall the bit above the P4 crux being much harder than .5-.6, but I do recall having a fist sized foothold break off under me. Fortunately, the equally sized handholds were a bit more stout...
Oct 5, 2006
I did this route again yesterday. There is now a fixed micro-nut at the crux slab pitch. It is a really good fixed piece and I was still able to get in a bomber Purple TCU right above it. I did the Doub-Griffith 2nd pitch variation. What a great variation. The traverse down and left to the first bolt is easy just be careful pulling on some of the fragile flakes.
Jul 5, 2006
I personally was confused about where I should go to turn the "blind corner" for pitch 3 (5.8) described in the book (also partly because I wasn't sure where p2 ends, since there are several options for a belay station). The answer is: look for a ~2ft niche (indentation) in the contour of the arete on the left. This is where you'll turn the corner. The traverse to it from start of p3 looks unprotected, but it's not - there are good cracks in left-facing corners which are simply not visible from the start of pitch 3.
Jan 15, 2006
Climbed Superslap at sunset on Sat 5/21 and I wasn't disappointed. However, if you're looking for the fixed piece from last year at the crux, you might be seriously disappointed.
May 23, 2005
Awesome!!! Every pitch is of excellent quality. The TCU is still fixed at the crux and is not going anywhere. I found the first pitch to be more strenuous and sustained, had a good flash pump going by the time I hit the belay ledge. The last pitch is just fun slab with maybe 3 tough moves. Save a red Alien for the huge pocket after you traverse left and before you pull through the headwall. It fits in the bottom of the pocket to the left and you don't get anymore gear for a while after. Enjoy!
Sep 14, 2004
The fixed stopper and cam on the fourth pitch are still there. So if hanging out at a precarious stance fiddling with pro is the reason you haven't done this classic get up there and do it. The climbing is fantastic. My partner (Deb Piranian) and I have different ideas about which pitch is the crux. I say it's the fourth, though she led it. She says it's the first, though I led that one. Figure that one out. The pitches are short and there is plenty of fixed gear so take a light rack; a single set of cams up to a number 2 Camalot and a single set of stoppers should do it.
Aug 29, 2004
If you are at all unsure about the pro,I would recommend doing this route NOW (despite the heat). I did it again today and there are TWO bomber fixed pieces in the pin scar--a nut, and a very fixed #0 Metolius TCU.
Jul 8, 2004
Excellent climb. On the first pitch, the hold up and left after the undercling was key. Maybe the most efficient sequence for a taller person is different, but for me, that hold was key. Also, you will reduce quite a bit of rope drag using a long runner 2'-4' on the first pin as you start traversing left. I know others have mentioned placing a small cam above the bolt on the third pitch. I happened to use a #5 HB offset. The thin face moves and subsequent moves finishing that pitch were sweet. Every time I needed a hold, it was there. Excellent line.
May 29, 2004
I agree with Dan. The crux is well protected with a purple TCU or black alien. No disrespect Mic, but saying a route should be protectable, "without having to go to neptune and buy a micro cam ..." is about the worst excuse for placing a bolt that I've heard in a long time. And doesn't a purple TCU fall under the category of "standard rack" for Eldo 10s and 11s?
Nov 5, 2003
I have to disagree that a crux bolt would be a good idea. It's not unreasonable the way it is and not wanting to buy a piece isn't a good reason to place a bolt. It's a trade route in that it is done regularly, yes, but at .10+ isn't like a Bastille Crack that will have many inexperienced climbers leading it. There are so many sew-up routes in Eldo that there's no need to make them all accessible to those who don't want a runout.
Nov 4, 2003
Man, I wish we had all this beta a couple years ago. I fell about 6' out from said pin scar, which doesn't take nuts too well! Luckily, I flew right by the belay ledge! Cool route. Seems kinda 'R'... -AK
Jul 4, 2003
A grey Metolius TCU can be placed blindly in the shallow, left-facing corner above the crux. It's actually quite bomber (I've almost fixed it!) and protects the hard high-step into the corner (if this feels scary, use double ropes). Once standing in the corner, all kinds of RPs and other stuff can be placed -- of course standing there and doing so is a whole different story. I don't think this pitch deserves an "s," but it is a hard and exciting lead for the grade; if you wobble, it'll feel harder!
Jun 15, 2003
Climbed this again this past weekend. My partner placed two good ballnuts at the crux of the last pitch, a #2 and #4. Much better than the single micro nut that I had blindly placed when I lead it.
Dec 18, 2002
In response to Steve Levin's comment about falling on the bolt; my partner fell above the bolt before he had gear in and broke his ankle. Just a heads up. It's a great route though.
Sep 23, 2002
My opinion, the slab crux is harder than the opening moves on the first pitch, they felt like 10a to me. Placing gear at the slab crux is awkward and pumpy. Also, its difficult to see your placement as its kind of a layback there. Overall, be prepared for some fairly spicy climbing with ledge fall potential if you blow it.
Aug 5, 2002
This climb didn't deserve the 'r' that the guide gave it. Unless you're super-pumped, you have plenty of time to get in a solid Alien at the crux. The rest of the pitch is classic but easy. Great climb.
Apr 27, 2002
She's a beauty mate. Slabtastic exposure!
Dec 23, 2001
Actually there are two protection possibilities. The first is as described (blue Alien) the second is about four feet higher, left on the arete about the height of the flake on the face. This finger pocket will take a well placed (but slightly tight) yellow Alien. With both pieces in place I felt this climb was reasonably well protected. When Steve refers to the Doubious-Grafitti variation, I believe he is referring to the traditional third pitch. Although it is possible to link the second and third pitches together.
Sep 10, 2001
- Superspar
Completed Super Spar 6/20. Wow - what a great route. You get the benefit of the first part of Super Slab with a fun exciting roof finish. I had never done the Arts Spar roof before, and found it to be great. For what it's worth, I agree with most of the comments below except that for me this was definitely easier than the Vertigo roof but still a challenge. Probably in the 10d-11a range. Solid gear placements and serious thank God jugs over the lip make this go at a reasonable grade. Great exposure.
Jun 21, 2017
Chris- the 5.9+ corner is the top of the Poached Eggs pitch.
Sep 18, 2007
Super Spar Direct, a one pitch approach to the roof. Instead making the traverse left to the 1st belay on Super Slab climb straight up a shallow corner, a little 9+, and then lichenous but solid, easy moves up to the big alcove on Grand Giraffe. Follow that pitch all the way to the belay below the offwidth. 60M rope leaves about 10 feet of spare rope. Save a blue Camalot for the belay.
Sep 18, 2007
Many people say a block fell out, so that must be true. Maybe harder now, but what does that tell you? Easier before, harder now. For me and some others 10c now, for others apparently 11a/b. Somewhat easier before. Maybe the block was more helpful for shorter climbers?
Mar 22, 2004
Resting from the lip with a right heel hook reminded me of the story back in the Gunks when Henry Barber did the first free ascent with John Stannard in 1973 of Crack of Bizarre Delights (11b) at Skytop (now closed to climbing). The crux is a short overhanging dihedral above a ceiling leading to a roof. The crux move is reaching the lip. You pull over the lip and roll onto the top of the cliff at a large flat lookout area. Henry got the lip, hooked his heel in a notch formed by a crack, and let go with both hands. He let out his famous laugh and said, "I think I'll hook me foot and rest me arms." Henry had recently returned from England and had adopted a heavy British accent. Since then, whenever I have a heel hook on a roof Henry's words run through my head. I know some of you ex-Gunks climbers now living in the Boulder area are misty-eyed now, thinking back to those great days in the Gunks.
Mar 21, 2004
For me, the Art's Spar roof is about 10c. Solid, straightforward jams, obvious moves, gear overhead. The crux for me was pulling over the lip - too many options, and I initially made the wrong choice. Over the last 2 years I have consistently failed to onsight anything over 10b in Eldo - I've tainted all of the good 10cs - yet I onsighted this. It's way easier for me than Grand Giraffe (supposedly 10a). The following day I followed the Le Toit roof (10b/c) and had much more trouble following that than leading the Art's Spar roof.
Mar 21, 2004
Not a basic "hand-crack-out-the-roof-thingy." The crack is not a great size and the roof is big, ~6 feet. Any of the other roof or overhang .10c routes I've done in Eldo (e.g. Tagger, Grandmother's Challenge, etc.) felt much, much easier. The Edge is hard, proabably a little easier, though totally different. Maybe you did Superspar before the rockfall changed it??
Jul 28, 2001
Wow. .11b? Just your basic handcrack- out-a-roof/bomber-jug-over-the-lip type of thing. Pumpy, but still think its a .10c... but again, I am tall. All the 'short' people seem to have a right to rate things harder to compensate...
Jul 9, 2001
Young Doug - I agree 100%. The roof is more difficult than Vertigo's which is maybe 10d. Even scarier is the o.w. Grand Giraffe!
Jan 1, 2001
The route starts from the same ledge as Ruper, off of the lower ramp. Walk about 20 or so ft. NW from Ruper to where the ledge is about to die out. The first pitch crux is the first 30 or so ft., identified by a shallow corner with several old pins to its right. The first pitch pin traverse, which goes left another 30 ft. up, takes you a large left-facing corner. That is the second pitch; the third angles up and right--aim for a belay just right of the start of the obvious Grand Giraffe OW, at the left end of a long, arching roof band. The crux climbs up a flake up and right of the belay then takes the body-length hand/finger crack through the roof. Very exciting.
Jan 1, 2001
- Three Old Farts Young at Heart
This is one of my favorite Eldo gems. Approaching via P1 of Psychosis definitely takes the edge off of this climb, the run-out .7 section above the overhang is all there, and gear is available if you're willing to spend the time to place it. On P3, don't pull the roof too early. The right-rising traverse is ~ 15 feet, first down slightly, then up, and the bolt is not visible until you've pulled the roof. Be gentle with the holds from there to the top!
Oct 14, 2016
On the first ascent of this climb. I led the first pitch, Donini led the second, and then I led the third pitch. On the third pitch we used no bolts. My last protection was below the little roof, but the huecos on the wall above were good and they let me climb straight up until it was possible to angle left around the corner into the very finish of Psychosis. Earl Wiggins watched the climb and came up with the name.
Jun 17, 2007
There is a largish block just above the roof on pitch two that is threatening to come off. I pulled on it and some gravel came out from behind it. If you are belaying at the base of the crack make sure that your belayer is off to the side as it could do some damage when it gets loose.
May 20, 2007
I climbed this yesterday with my friend Joe to reach Psycho Pigeon. We did it in two pitches. I felt it went pretty smooth doing it this way. The first pitch has some pretty long runouts, standard eldo fare. The last pitch was climbing over really cool huecos with sparse pro. I highly recommend this one.
May 7, 2006
The photos from 2/6/05 are of me. Thanks, Ivan for capturing me looking so gripped. Ah, 9+ VS off the couch to start the day. The thin flake above the roof on P1 takes a good cam, but feels fragile as you yard on it. The book says to do the whole climb in 2 piches, but I needed the gear for the crux, so we belayed below the crux roof/crack as Ivan recommends. I remembered a friend telling me to bring a #3 Camalot (blue) right after stepping over the roof on P2. There is a wide shallow slot that protects the crux - a thin face move just after pulling the roof. Maybe I'll consult my own beta now before next time. :)
Feb 16, 2005
- To RP Or Not To Be
One of the most beautiful leads in the canyon! But definitely a step up from something like "Night"..... Don't forget those slider nuts. A bunch of the gear is marginal. Only one or two pieces near the beginning I can think of that are decent but who knows?
Sep 18, 2017
The climbing is amazing. There is plenty of chalk on the holds, and it's all cleaned up for anyone looking to get on this classic route.
Jan 24, 2013
Does anyone know if it's seen an ascent since Samet and Kemple?
Dec 29, 2012
Uuummmmmm, so. This thing seems really good. Possibly the most heinous string of marginal R.P.s imaginable up a magnificent face. Still needs a little more brushing, it has grown a bit of lichen in key areas since the Matt and Tim repeat era. Gonna be good to go for the Spring though for all interested......; )
Mar 10, 2007
If you were coming to the base of the pitch from Superslab, the easiest way would be this: Lead Pitch One of Superslab (5.10+) to the sling belay at the base of the left-facing corner. Climb the corner (5.6/7) to its end, then, before engaging in the 5.9 crux of this pitch, set a belay at a small ledge on the right. From here, you'd traverse due left around the corner, probably 20 feet from your belay, under the bolts and pin protecting the 11a pitch of Doub-Griffith, and you'd be there. Up, up and away.
Apr 18, 2004
AC (or Samet), Would you be so kind as to describe with a bit more detail how one could get to the start of this pitch from Doub-Griffith or Super Slab. I would greatly appreciate it.
Nov 3, 2003
- Untouchables, The
I've only done P2, coming in from Apple Strudel. Thought it was excellent, good amount of excitement, until the last bolt. I ended up going straight right into a left-facing corner, which is NOT the correct way to go. After rapping the route, I'd suggest going straight up. Looked like you could place a medium-large nut about 8 feet above the last bolt and continue to the tree anchor. I'd give P2 a PG-13 rating.
Dec 8, 2014
This thing seldom gets done, but it's really pretty rad. At first attempt, it seems like a route that's just really hard but not actually that fun, BUT, if you spend a little more time on it and figure out the trick beta, it's really fun and extremely unique. There is definite shoulder-tweak potential, so make sure you delve into it with control, and use good posture. I won't spray the trick beta here, but PM me if you like. I gave it four stars for the mostly great rock, the beautiful wall, and typical Eldo crypticness that has you super frustrated then absolutely loving it. A small to medium nut or cam before the last bolt would be wise. It's easy climbing, but it gets really runout pretty quickly. Go do this thing!
Dec 25, 2013
Scott -- Pitch 2 was originally top-roped in 1988 but never bolted. Steve Levin had submitted a bolting application in 2009 and asked that I bolt it after he sustained an injury. His application called for 4 additional bolts, and he showed me a photo with a rough idea of where he wanted them. I got them in but had the same confusion as you about whether to climb straight up or not. I ended up moving left as well and still thought it was pretty insecure and runout. Even though there's a marginal piece or two, I think it would still be nice to have another bolt -- but I've become less bold in my old age! Thanks for the write-up.
May 15, 2012
If you're interested in climbing the fun 5.11 second pitch but don't want to tackle the 12c first pitch, you can reach it in two ways: -Climb Apple Strudel (12a) to the shared, three-bolt anchor. -Climb any route up to the "Red Ledge" (the best would probably be Parting Shot, 11b), and then rappel off a large tree (with rap slings) to the three-bolt anchor from which the second pitch begins. Take care on this rap: the wall is steep, and the anchor is to rappeler's right. If you don't keep your swing going, you could easily become stuck in space and gain some unwanted prusiking practice.
May 13, 2012
- Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur
- Vertigo
3/18/17 - fixed pin still there. There is a fixed nut above the pin. There is also a fixed pin on the small ledge after leaving the belay on pitch 3. Combine the fixed gear with a blue/purple TCU, and this crux sews up very nicely. A most amazing climb. We had the route to ourselves in Eldo on a Saturday.
Mar 18, 2017
Two fixed nuts and a pin on the crux dihedral, slung block with mangy tat on the roof pitch. Will try to clean up that block next time I'm up there. So much fun.
Jun 30, 2016
Reiterating some key beta: on the final pitch, don't place gear @ or just above the lip, or back clean the gear if you do. If you place an unextended #1 or #2 in a crack to the right of the easy v-slotted chimney that finishes the pitch, it will prevent the rope from getting snagged in the crack, and you can belay from a comfortable position at the back of the chimney before the downclimb.
3 days ago
Hi everyone! I forgot my camera in the Vertigo ledge on Saturday October 7. If you found it, I would really appreaciate to contact me. Thank you, Javier
Oct 9, 2017
I was almost killed on this route by rock fall in ''99. It took me 17 years to return, only to find loose blocks on the last pitch leaving the ledge. Also, most importantly, the huge death flake in the roof is just that, a DEATH FLAKE. This route is toted as one of the safer 5.11s in the park. It is just a matter of time before someone pulls or kicks the giant flake off into their chest, cleaning out the scores of people below. Not recommended.
Oct 3, 2016
On the second pitch, there is currently a purple c4 with a biner above the bulge, buried in a crack. It was about 35 degrees out, so I was trying not to get the barfies - I didn't try for long - but a good angler could get it out with two nut tools and a bit of effort. Quality route, so happy to have gotten on it!
Jan 16, 2016
Very nice job, Gregger Man. Neptune Gear swap is coming up!
Apr 5, 2015
The DragonCam that had been stuck for a while at the lip on the final pitch of Vertigo. Still good. Put it on your Indian Creek rack.
Apr 5, 2015
Such a fun climb. I recommend linking pitches 1 and 2, watch the rope drag though. Also when pulling over the lip, make sure to keep the hand jam next to the jug free of gear, otherwise it makes it a lot harder for shorter people.
Mar 27, 2015
Only 1 fixed nut now, and it's pretty good, though you can back it up if you wish. Pin below the nut looks good, too.
Oct 20, 2014
There are currently two fixed nuts after the pin on the dihedral pitch. The upper nut will hold a fall!
Sep 28, 2014
The piece placed out left is actually a 0.4. Not sure where you could get in anything bigger, and this will make following the route more enjoyable for your second.
Jun 16, 2014
The roof pitch is cake, as for the dihedral....
Aug 28, 2013
Today it was way too windy on the fifth pitch for us. It was way too cold to be enjoyable. We bailed off the fourth pitch and left a nineteen g carabiner on the pin in the crux. Whoever gets it, have fun with it :-)
May 5, 2013
As I remember it, a #0.75 Camalot can be placed out left after turning the roof on p4. This piece holds the rope out of the crack nicely.
Feb 25, 2012
The webbing in the roof looked like it was around a fixed stopper (just the stopper no wire). That being said I decided to plug a cam next to it, since there was bomber gear to be found everywhere on the roof.
Sep 10, 2011
This is a great climb. Almost onsighted the dihedral but fell trying to reach for what would have been basically a bomber jug. Cruised the second time. There is one pin in the dihedral which can be backed up with yellow and blue TCUs. Flailed on the roof pitch because of rope issues. Don't place gear at the lip or if you do, remove it after you get past it because your rope will trap it and your second will make .11a look like .12a, especially if it's snowing....
Apr 20, 2011
No fixed gear in the crux dihedral except the pin as of 3-12-10.
Mar 12, 2010
Without a doubt this is one of the finest lines in Eldo. Every pitch is classic and there is an amazing variety of climbing throughout the four pitches. Absolutely fantastic.
Jun 14, 2008
This is the first route which has let me down at Eldo. I found the dihedral pitch to be a short one-move-wonder with fixed pin & stopper for the move. The roof pitch is CHOSS. The last flake on the roof flexes alot plus it's a jug haul to another one-move-wonder. Don't understand the hype.
Apr 21, 2008
As of 06/07, the slung chock (See Dane's comment) is still there. Fixed 0.5 is not. One pin left on the dihedral pitch. I suppose a person could run 1 and 2 together, if so inclined, but, however you do it, every pitch on this climb is simply spectacular!
Jun 16, 2007
Fantastic route! On the dihedral pitch, there is a fixed cam down low, a fixed nut, a pin, and another fixed nut. The fixed pieces sew up the crux section very nicely. And on the roof section, there is a large, fixed chock that has been slung and a 0.5 Camalot at the lip. The 0.5 will definitely hold some falls! Awesome!
May 31, 2007
Climbed this yesterday for the first time and it was amazing. While sitting on the belay watching my partner make his way up the second dihedral I noticed a line to the left on the overhanging arete. I was wondering what the rating and name is of this pitch is, if different than Vertigo?
Nov 11, 2005
One of the best routes in Eldo.The difficulty comes from the dihedral pitch, not from the roof pitch. The difficulty being more [dependent] on temperature and humidity than on any other subjective factor. This is presuming that shorter climbers also have better-suited thin fingers. The final roof is not so hard for experienced "steep" climbers, but slab masters might find some trouble turning the lip. The gear on the top half is "as you would like it"- that is to say, if you have the endurance, you can get overhead gear wherever you like and it's solid. Lastly, I think that the "awkward bulge" on the second pitch is awkward enough to merit the 5.10 grade rather than 5.9. Place protection before just getting there to reduce leg-shake once there. I made the mistake of running it out into that position last time I got on it. Yuck.
Aug 22, 2005
This is a sick route, but after two years of wanting to do I think in my case I just made it out to be more than it really was. I guess I just wish the roof was another 15 ft long. However, I would settle for 5ft, it is that much fun! You can't beat the exposure. Hanging from the jug before the lip of the roof, getting a shake. Look between your legs. All you see is an awsome line. An overhanging Dihedrial, filled with all sorts of cool gear, then your belayer hanging off some bolts. Below them nothing but air for a real long way. My advice just go do the damn thing. Easier then the Edge! Woo Weee
Oct 25, 2004
There are three pieces of fixed gear on pitch 3: wires above and below the pin. Not sure why the pin is there, the crack takes great gear.
May 7, 2003
The fixed pin is still on the 3rd pitch, the nut is not. It's easy to back the pin up with a green alien. On the 4th pitch, there is some webbing jammed in the crack about midway, that's currently the only "fixed" gear. I'll echo what everyone has said about the rope getting stuck in the crack easily. Thanks to the comments on this site, we delt with the rope travel before it became a problem. If you don't deal with it it will get stuck.
Nov 11, 2002
There is currently one fixed pin on the crux pitch and on 07/15/02 there was also a fixed nut just below the pin. The fixed nut mentioned in the comments above for the top of the final pitch is no longer there. The whole route protects well with singles of nuts, TCUs, and cams up to a #2 Camalot.....
Jul 16, 2002
Chris "the Duece" Dawson & I watched some poor saps in front of us struggle for about an hour trying to free their snarled line from the jaws of the roof crack. At the time (May 2001) there was a fixed nut right at the lip of the roof that would align your rope perfectly to get snagged when clipped. When I led, I placed a big cam (#3 camalot I think) immediately above the roof on the easier terrain & then reached down & unclipped the fixed nut. I had no problem at all with pulling the rope. I'd highly recommend removing any pro at the lip before you finish the pitch. Placing pro to the right like Joe suggests is also an excellent idea.
Feb 9, 2002
An alternative to belaying just above the roof is to place a stopper in the crack to the right of the stance to keep the rope out of the crack; works just fine.
Oct 15, 2001
I climbed it on 9/23/01 and there was still one pin left at the crux of the third pitch.
Sep 23, 2001
This is good advice, however, the slot above the roof is very wide so you need to take some appropriate gear. Alternatively, run up to the end of the slot and set up a belay but have the leader clip their rope in high and work back to the end of the slot. This saves dragging along some very wide gear that is otherwise not needed.
Sep 19, 2001
One key piece of beta that might save yourself a lot of time and aggravation: set up your belay right after the roof on the final pitch. Otherwise the rope is almost guaranteed to get stuck in the crack and your 2nd will have to prusik. I've seen this happen myself and heard many similar tales of woe. Luckily I had the beta myself and didn't have to deal with the problem.
Sep 19, 2001
Pitches 1&2, 3&4 can be combined quite nicely. I've heard rumor that you can do the whole bloody thing in one pitch if you use a hanging belay in the groove just above the final overhang.
Aug 23, 2001
- West Arete (of T1), The
3 pins total there right now - one is left of the arete and backs up with a small (first knuckle) stopper or cam. The two on the arete are so-so but should hold a fall. No way to back them up though. I believe the FA was done on free solo, so I'm not sure when the pins happened to be placed.
Sep 13, 2014
That was scary. The climbing was really good, but what little pro I found--with the exception of a slung horn--was psychological only. We only climbed from just above the bulge where YS meets it, nevertheless this arete is a fun and exciting way to get to Icarus. It is quite runout until joining up with Icarus, but by then, 5.6 R is a relief. :)
Jan 11, 2010
As of 1/27/08, there are 3 pins total on the route (all near harder sections) and they are not inspiring. The climbing is ultra classic! I would recommend that you feel comfortable soloing 5.9 Eldo before leading the first pitch of this route. The second pitch is not as hard but even more runout until you get just below the junction with 'Icarus'. The description in Rossiter's guide is quite good, although a 'VS' or 'X' rating may be appropriate.
Jan 28, 2008
The guidebook shows some fixed pins around the area of the crux but they are gone (there might be one up higher where it's easy). I saw some pin scars but was unable to wiggle in anything so the crux has to be done about 30 or 40 feet above gear. Spicy.
Jun 21, 2002
- Without A Net
Hmmm... an R rated newly installed route?
Apr 9, 2016
You definitely don't want to blow it between bolts 3 and 4. I found the route super devious with a ton of lichen and no chalk :) This thing would be hard to onsight! Overall, worth doing. The movement is nice. All about the footwork and balance! Definitely link it to Doub Griffith and the Schlauch Direct! So good!
Apr 9, 2016
We noticed the tri-cam placement, but going for this lead onsight, I'd give it R-. I also imagine it hadn't been climbed in a while, because it was overgrown with lichen. I really enjoyed the climbing! Just needs a little cleaning!
Apr 8, 2016
I must have missed all the gear placements between the bolts...or maybe there aren't any. Top notch route with a good amount of spice. I think a 2 or 3 would also work in the horizontal.
Dec 10, 2014
Great new addition to Eldo! Really tricky and exciting sequences that have to be climbed to be believed. I did the whole 65m mega pitch which enters into the Doub Griffith right at the crux arete climbing... and then took the 12a direct finish. A heads up: the crux move is pulling up 60 meters of rope to clip the last bolt. It would have probably been more fun and "less of a drag" to belay off of two of the lead bolts on D.B. or something.
Nov 30, 2014
Thanks to Eric for his vision and work on this great new line! Lots of consistent 5.11 climbing. A bit sporty but not dangerous. Red point grade is probably 5.11b, but expect 5.11+ for the on-sight. There is at least one move which is less than obvious.
Jun 11, 2014
Nice job, Eric! This is a great addition to that particular chunk of rock. Definitely 5.11+ on a TR. SS
Jun 11, 2014
Thanks to ACE/FHRC for facilitating the new route process in Eldo. There are some gems still out there!
Jun 11, 2014
- Yellow Fellow
As of 3-2-09, the sling anchor is in place, although it could maybe use another piece of webbing. Thanks to whoever built it! -Scott
Mar 2, 2009
FYI, someone removed a carefully built, rappel anchor at the top of this pitch as of February '08. It's one of those anchors in Eldo that comes and goes. I've seen this anchor used for over 20 years by climbers just doing the first pitch of Mellow Yellow. If you are intending to rappel, you'll need a sling for the flake and a piece of cord to back up the flake to a pin about 4 or 5 feet higher.
Feb 29, 2008
Really sweet climb. Nice crisp edging on a beautiful wall. Unfortunately I had just led the crux pitch of the Wisdom, so I was a little wasted when I arrived at the crux. Initiating the crux roof/bulge is not really obvious. It was also really hot and sunny that day and I kept greasing off. I plan to go back when it's cooler and try it again. I think it's bolted just about right too. Keeps you on your toes. Solid 3 stars! Nice one guys...
Oct 4, 2007
We first top roped this route in January 2006. I installed the bolts on 9/8/07 and put new webbing on the rap anchor. Phil lead it, placing all the gear on lead. We ran out of time and it was hot so I went back and lead it a week later in beautiful cool conditions. Here is the ACE application and the application comments.
Sep 16, 2007
- Yellow Spur, The
Having done this route nearly 20 times over the past 15 years, it is still worth going back to each season much like Rewritten, and much like Rewritten, it can be strung together with some creative rope usage to make it a 3-4 pitch route. Every time I go back, I get caught behind parties breaking it up into tiny, small pitches. I don't mind much, because usually I am on just to have a day outside. However, stringing these pitches together gives you giant long pitches of uninterrupted climbing. Here is the best pitch linking beta: (1)-P1 to tree. (2)-P2 & 3 together end at base of dihedral under the traverse. (3)-P4. (4)-P5 & P6. If you really wanted to get creative, you could do: (1)-P1 & P2 with direct start (2)-P3 and P4 - place a long sling before you walk across the ledge, and then place another long sling as your first piece in the dihedral before traverse. You will need to run it out a on the easier sections to link these 2. (3)-P5 & P6.
Aug 9, 2017
Just climbed this yesterday--what an amazing route, and here's some motivation for any other "older" guys/gals out there...I had previously climbed this classic with Jeff Achey in 1977 and then with Jim Dublinski in 1982--light years ago in a galaxy far, far, away, Sometime in the mid-'80s I drifted away from climbing (and on to competitive cycling) and didn't climb for some 30 years. Getting back into it in my very, very late 50s has been an eye-opener in many ways--the new ethics, sport climbing, climbing gyms, new equipment and techniques, the crowds, my weak arms/fingers, etc. I was excited, though, and I told myself I would be happy as a clam, at my age, to just be able to climb the East Face of the Third Flatiron again, to feel the breeze above Boulder and watch the birds, but...after a couple of years of working at it, I was able to follow (cleanly, I'm proud to add!) my climbing buddy, Blake up this wonderful route. The Yellow Spur had always held wonderful memories for me as My Personal Eldo Classic, and yesterday's climb was WAY more than I ever dreamed of. So...getting old? You just might be a lot more able than you think. Onward and upward! (P.S. I still very much enjoy the Third Flatiron, too!)
Jul 23, 2017
I did this route several times back in the day, although always with the 5.10 start and finish, so I guess I've never done the proper route. An Eldo classic for the grade.
Feb 11, 2017
LOST ROPE - had to bail off of the Apple Strudel rappel (between Rewritten and Yellow Spur) last night, as I managed to get my rope caught while pulling it. If anyone recovers my blue Mammut rope, please contact me at (207)450-7212. Cheers, James
Oct 20, 2016
I was climbing on September 17th, and my girlfriend left her shoes at the base of the route (size 38 Scarpa Vapors). If anyone sees them, please let me know! 603 988 7379. Thanks in advance!
Sep 17, 2016
Super classic. Appreciate everyone's rappel beta, but a Upper Ramp rappel route. From the base of Chockstone Chimney, hike up to the right side of the slab by a tree, then downclimb the slab to a ledge. Traverse left on the ledge to a bolted rappel anchor. This anchor was installed on August 21, 2006 to replace the anchor on the wobbling tree. Rappel 65' to a stance with bolts and chains. A second 95' rappel takes you to Vertigo Ledge. Follow Vertigo Ledge until it intersects the West Face trail. is worth a thousand words. mountainproject.com/v/10581…
Jul 30, 2016
Every pitch is good. Good belays. Classic.
Jul 25, 2016
There is a floating, loose flake at the top of the fourth pitch on what is the belay ledge; completely detached. There is a funky anchor at this ledge as well, it protects well with ball-nuts of C3s, but you'll have to be creative.
Jul 8, 2016
Beta request - for the middle start (the one 6' left of the usual start), do you end up moving into the dihedral? I think I found the starting hold, but I reached up from it and couldn't seem to find any holds afterwards. I could just be weak. Also, do people generally belay from the top of the summit pyramid? I ended up belaying from a stance a few feet down the traverse that had good gear, but I was curious if most people just slung the top. Really, really fun route.
Jun 25, 2016
I climbed this route last week and loved it. It should be rated R in my opinion for the runout on the arete. I am not sure of the traditions in Eldo as this is the only day I have spent there, but even though that arete was easy climbing, I was looking at death falls the entire way. If it is so popular of a route, is there a reason there aren't a couple bolts on the arete?
Mar 10, 2016
Gregger ^^^ Ah brilliant, my man, that may be the best beta on here! ;-)
Oct 23, 2015
Chris, regarding rope drag on P4: right at that corner, place a medium-sized nut upside down (with the wire pointing up). It's not there to catch a fall, but the rope runs against the nut and won't jam in the crack. Works like a charm.
Oct 20, 2015
Led pitches 1, 3, & 5 clean. Yellow Spur is rad as rad can get! P1 - 5.9. Getting to the first pin off the deck is tricky and serves as the gatekeeper for the route. If you can't send, then you need to move on, because the climbing is pretty sustained. P2 - I felt this was the hardest pitch to follow and would be a stout lead. Getting up the right-facing corner was balancy, smaller gear placements and feet were sparse. P3 - 5.8. Solid. Easiest pitch of my leads. Head straight up from tree at 2nd belay. P4 - Rope drag was a major drag. Had to ascend the rope from top of Pitch 3 to right below the roof/hand traverse to free it. Recommend P4 belay right beneath the roof/hand traverse instead of past it. A team of climbers beneath us belayed here below the roof, and after talking with them, their beta was solid. P5 - 5.10a, money pitch. Agree with poster ^^^, the pin ladder on lead is straight up stout especially with a hand/foot hold MIA. Did the Robbins Traverse variation 5.8 PG-13. Expect to hang your a$$ out ~25 feet of airy runout from the last bolt before placing a piece. A slip & whip on this traverse would be an unforgettable ride. P6 - Knife edge is all that and a bag of chips!
Oct 19, 2015
Such a great route. Every pitch is pretty classic, but the fifth pitch in particular is just so great. The position and balancy nature of the moves are very memorable. I couldn't discern any meaningful difference in difficulty between the lower 'pin ladder' section and the upper bolted 5.10 variation of the 5th pitch. They both felt about the same hardness to me, that is to say, 5.rad. One of the best in the state. I must say tho, combining the last two pitches creates some heinous rope drag, I only placed two pieces after the pins/bolts, both with triple length runners. Maybe more clever or bold leaders could climb this with a single rope in a drag-free fashion, but not I. It is mellow climbing, but I don't think I'd do it this way again unless in a hurry to get off.
Jul 28, 2015
A hold blew on the pin ladder. It was the crimp/edge near the second to last pin (before the bolts), between the sloping rail on the left and the arete. It was a hand and foot hold. It blew on my follower, but I think it safe to assume the break will increase the difficulty of the pitch.
Jul 16, 2015
Went up to do this route on Sunday. I haven't been up it in years and was surprised to find that the pin in the sidepull after the two jugs on the first pitch roof is gone. When did that happen?
Jan 26, 2015
Took some good photos of climbers on a nearby route, 1/17/15. Pm me and I'll send along.
Jan 19, 2015
These are my personal recommendations for the route. I have done it four times. Rack: for a comfortable experience, bring a single rack from 0.3 - 2.0. Pitches: with a 70m, link pitches 1, 2, and 3. My favorite start is the one in the middle. Make sure to traverse right at the end of pitch three to set up the belay. Climb pitch 4 as it is. Link the Robbin´s Traverse into the final ridge line pitch. The historic Robbin´s traverse is a much better experience than the 5.10 pin ladder. Make sure to clip a long sling at the end of the Robbin´s Traverse to avoid rope drag on the arete. Riding the ridgeline is one of my favorite pitches ever. Try to stick to the ridge as much as a possible and enjoy the exposure.
Nov 10, 2014
Did the first 3 pitches of this on 10/27/14. After pitch 3, you can escape left into a gully (4th class) and then downclimb to the rap chains (2 raps to the ground are necessary). We had to because of the cold. As for pitch one, the beginning and end of the traverse are protected by pins. There is great gear (hard to place) while going up over the roof. The scariest part for some would be getting to the first pin. There is protection about 15 feet up, but it is in a hollow-sounding flake. Doubles are best for the first pitch, but it can be done with one rope with very long slings on each piece place until going over the roof. There is a lot of opportunities to place gear during the traverse which is very easy climbing.
Oct 28, 2014
^^^ If you don't feel safe, you won't be safe, but that doesn't mean adding a bolt. LCD = Least Common Denominator. Whatever you do it it scary to somebody. That route gets climbed by a dozen people a day and doesn't need a change.
Sep 15, 2014
John: Eldo climbing is tricky and has its own flavor. Nothing is straightforward; everything is a sidepull or a hidden hold; the footholds are hard to see; body position can make all the difference. Every 5.9 in Eldo feels harder than 5.9 until you're used to Eldo 5.9. Start out on some of the 5.6/5.7 classics and work your way up. Eldo is an acquired taste, particularly on lead. If you can get a partner and follow a bunch of routes, you'll get the hang of it. I've been climbing in Eldo for many years and still don't lead 5.9 trad. As for adding a bolt on the Yellow Spur, please understand that this is a trad climbing area with deep trad roots. Very few 5.9 leaders are going to be very comfortable leading the Yellow Spur. Adding a bolt to any route changes the nature of the route, and the Eldo climbing community would be entirely opposed to such a change, particularly on one of the defining super-classics of the area.
Sep 8, 2014
Attempted route and had to abandon. Just getting to the first ledge is most definitely harder than 5.9, and this was on the "easier" right side. Additionally, there isn't sufficient protection to get to the first bolt (personally, I think there should be a bolt right where there is no protection). We deemed it too dangerous to attempt and sadly had to abort route. Very disappointed because we thought it was 5.9 when it was more like 5.10 and little to no protection in the beginning.
Aug 3, 2014
Lovely route...quality and sustained. Traverses a good bit, so DMM Revolver biners are nice to have in those critical turn spots...if you have 'em, use 'em. Found the standard last pitch to be 10a...compares well with other old school areas back east like Seneca and the Gunks...a shade harder than the crux on Bring On The Nubiles at Seneca (9+). The RR traverse was fun and airy. There was a long sling on one of the bolts, so I used that and then managed to put a slip-knot on a flake/chickenhead type thing near the right end of the traverse...moved up and clipped a pin.
Jul 10, 2014
Regarding the post above by Vaughne, sounds like you went on to the third pitch of Psycho Pigeon, a great route! There is definitely decent, though somewhat tricky pro before the bolt, including an excellent blue/green offset Alien right where you want it. That section getting to the bolt might be 5.10 PG or PG-13. The crux is getting to the second bolt.
May 22, 2014
Does anyone know the story on the lower traverse on pitch 5? I was up there today and saw a bolt up and left of the belay below the pin/bolt ladder. Thinking it was the Robbin's traverse I clipped the first pin on the ladder and then fired off to the left just above the roof. I found it to be relatively difficult and scary, since there was no pro for about 25' and kind of a lot of lichen. There are two bolts out there and only afterward did I learn that this is not the Robbin's Traverse.
May 18, 2014
If you're going to climb this route, skip the traverse on the crux pitch and head straight up on the 10a/b section. The tricky section is very short and more of a balancy, hidden move than a pumpfest. Awesome exposure and fun climbing high on Redgarden Wall. What more could you ask for?!
Apr 27, 2014
Pitch 5 is definitely an interesting lead. Some thin moves up the pin ladder, but with a pin every 5 feet, it feels pretty much like sport climbing. Then comes the 5.7 Robbins Traverse which felt kind of tricky for the grade to be honest, and there is very little gear. I got a really sketchy blue Alien in behind a flake about halfway across and that was it until the fixed pin. Really wouldn't have wanted to fall on that one!
Aug 29, 2013
I just climbed this last week for the first time...spectacular climb. We linked pitches 2/3 and 4/5. We did the 10b variation which was super cool. I think we got off route at the very top as I encountered huge runouts on easy climbing. We finished too far to the right, so we had to do an additional pitch of up over the sharp ridge line and then all the way down to the saddle point where the dirty gully rappel begins. We did the rappel in 3 single rope raps with no problems with a 70m rope...a 60m would be cutting it close. Also, the winds were remarkably strong...so strong that my 105 pound partner actually got blown off the route! We left a yellow Rock Empire cam at the belay at the bottom of pitch 4. If anyone can get it out, please contact me at climberboy228@gmail.com.
Jun 8, 2013
TONS of fixed gear on this route. Stopped at a false belay on the fourth pitch after pulling the roof, on a ledge with an old piton. A big block there is loose and practically ready to come off; I broke a chunk of it off while looking for a place to plug some gear. Don't be fooled; keep moving up and to the right, onto the arête, where there's a ledge with bomber pro. Belay from there.
May 19, 2013
Someone is going to be pulverized if those death blocks aren't removed on the dihedral pitch before the crux...orchestrated trundling, anyone?
May 3, 2013
I dropped a small, yellow HB Wales Quad Cam at the base of this route on 4/27/2013. It landed near the trail in plain sight, but when we got back to the base, it was gone. If you picked it up, please message me. I would like it back.
Apr 30, 2013
The rating is not too accurate, especially in comparison to nearby locations like Clear Creek. The 5.7 variation at the top is more like 5.8. Great views!
Nov 22, 2012
Last week replaced the overhand knotted cordage on the rap tree with some webbing and a rap ring. Added the cordage back on with double fisherman's, too. Excellent day with no-one else on the wall!
May 25, 2012
Felt like I should put in my two cents. 1. Personally I think p1 is the crux no matter which way you go. Even if you think p6 has harder moves, p1 is a far more serious lead particularly for the second. 2. I went for this route OS with very little beta, so I decided to make a belay in the ample placements about 10 feet from the base of the dihedral in p2 instead of the tree. Later, I read in Rock and Ice an accident report about a climber who died when his rope cut while falling on the initial moves in the dihedral. Looking back, the sharp angle the rope makes from the belay being WAY right of the line makes for a dangerous rope cutting situation. It appears the tree is the standard belay, but I would recommend using gear to make a belay in a better position.
Mar 13, 2012
Ended up getting a #3 C4 stuck deep behind the flake at the top of the 3rd pitch. The anchor right before the "Open Book" pitch. Whoever can get that thing out of there deserves to inherit the booty.
Mar 12, 2012
Did this today, great route! Dropped a yellow Wired Bliss TCU from the last pitch. If anyone finds it, I owe you a six pack!
Jan 5, 2012
To the couple on Yellow Spur on Fri.23rd, my email is c_berdoulay@hotmail.com. Thanks again for the pictures.
Sep 25, 2011
Third rap down the links to bolts are showing considerable wear.
Aug 28, 2011
The enjoyability of this climb is greatly enhanced by doing the Robbins traverse. The 5.10 finish has funky moves that are way less fun. I find it fascinating that anyone could climb this route and give it less than four stars. A bona fide Eldo classic.
Jun 10, 2011
Finally got a chance to lead the pin ladder and did the direct finish. It should be noted that the pins/bolts are so close together that you could fairly easily French free through this section, even the direct finish with the exception of maybe two moves. So, if all this talk of a scary airy pin ladder has kept you off the rest of this route, don't let it keep you down! Just don't forget your quickdraws in the car! I had 6 doubled draws and 5 quickdraws for p5 and had no slingage left when I got to building an anchor at the top!
Oct 16, 2010
Wow- just adding to this YS blog is an honor. FYI- Pulled out the piton, on the first pitch overhang/layback (large Chouinard angle) with two fingers last week on an AMGA course. I was about to ask the guide leading why he had placed a difficult to remove cam just below it and not clipped that trusty looking pin when I gave the pin a quick tug - then congratulated him on his good judgment in avoiding that time bomb! Needless to say, no one wanted to clip another pin on the route that day which is a bit tough to do in sections- besides, rust and spider webs have kept most of them in place this long!? FWIW- After many trips up this route via the two starting options, I've decided that the start between them (10c?) is the sweetest with very good gear, straight line, and just one hard starting move (which is spottable) to get going. Much nicer than the less- unprotected other options IMHO.
Sep 21, 2009
Seems like most could get all the beta they need from the previous comments, but it's no lie this is a classic! My favorite climb in Eldo! A must in this difficulty range!!
Sep 7, 2009
Fun climb. A bit difficult for me to protect. Pitons scare me, but 5.10 variation was the most exposed I have ever felt. Very fun now that it is over. Thank Sunny and Julie for letting us follow! It was awsome. We still missed the decent and ended up down climbing the east side. If anyone finds my 3 slider nuts that I dropped on the 1st pitch, feel free to contact me. Otherwise, if you have to keep them, give them my love.
Aug 10, 2009
Rob and Diane........ email us if you see this. Adam and Ellen
Aug 9, 2009
Just wanted to reiterate some of the comments on the descent as it is easily to get lost in the long string of comments. The raps west of Ruper are very easy and clean and most importantly keeps you from tossing rocks on folks waiting for Green Spur ect. A single 60m works for all of the raps. To find the Ruper trees head down the gully north of the summit for about 50 yards. The rocks flatten out here and you can then start moving south until you see the Ruper trees. Work right here (west) up over a fin and through the notch and you will see the rap (95'). Everyone might know this but me, but there is no longer a tree on the Vertigo raps, instead look for the chains directly across from the 1st rap. 2 single raps with a 60m on chains will get you down. Hope this helps.
Jun 12, 2009
Jason, "FYI, the loose flake is still there, but it looks as solid as it can be." I'm not sure what flake you are referring to, but the major, loose flake on the crux pitch has been gone for a while now -- at least since 2006.
May 18, 2009
4 star route. The bulge is certainly memorable, as is the Robbins' traverse. Each pitch has something that will get your attention. All in all a great route and certainly a classic. A lot of the pitches have awesome exposure. Before I did this route, I was looking for beta on the piton ladder pitch. Think thin, airy moves, but it's all there and the protection is good until you get to the Robbins' traverse. Next time I think we'll do the 5.10 bolts. The traverse is runout and probably more like 5.8. It's a bit creepy clipping the one piton as you know it's probably a 40 foot whipper if you blow it with some swing potential. All said, I'm glad we did it old school! FYI, the loose flake is still there, but it looks as solid as it can be.
Apr 14, 2009
Finally got on this one today, definitely a classic. Although I must admit, for such a talked up route I thought more of it would be 4-star, but it's really only the top pitches (bolted face & arete) that deliver the ear-to-ear grin. The direct start was fun, slightly harder than the .10 moves up top, and just a little scary because of the sparse gear options. As for the descent, I would recommend The Dirty Deed's rappels to come off of, although I know some try to steer parties away from this because of all the loose rock on it and its location directly above a very popular area. Definitely take care and be mindful, but I was more scared setting up a top-rope at Table Mountain last weekend than I was descending this line. Traverse north off the top of The Spur, and go through the little notch at the top of the gully, you'll see a nest of slings with some rap rings on it. Two rappels down put you on the big Red Ledge. From here, walk/scramble north for another 40 yards down to a set of bolts with rap rings on it. Two more rappels straight down puts you back on the ground.
Apr 13, 2009
Mega good fun. First roof crux is tricky if you don't find the proper path. I kept trying to follow the chalk left and completely missed the overhead jug. Be sure to protect your second once you are on the ledge. Piton/bolt ladder and finishing arete extra fun with 50 mph gusts.. yeeeeehhaaaaaaaa. 10a for the move at the bolt ladder.
Oct 20, 2008
I think that the traverse on Pitch 5 is more of a .9 not a .7
Oct 4, 2008
I just got off of Yellow Spur...I thought it was an ultra classic route!!! Super sweet moves on every pitch. I only had a question about pitch 6 (the crux pitch) after traversing right from the belay and clipping the first piton I encounter a dilemma while standing upon a small ledge at the arete above the piton. One can head to the right following an obvious piton ladder on what appears to be easier climbing then the left choice. The other choice is to head immediately left and on to the bright yellow-green face to two shiny and my guess relatively super new drilled in bolts 7- 10 feet apart followed by a semi run out piton. My question is what does this left route go at? and does it have a name? Personally I felt as though it was a very very stiff 5.10 maybe a 5.10d or even an 11a, but I could be way off. It maybe just an old school 10. Any feedback would be great. I felt all climbing on this route was very chill except for this 15-20 foot left section on the crux pitch which totally took me by surprise. If one choose to go left I was able to sling a horn between the second bolt and the piton, as well as, slinging another horn maybe ten feet above the piton which gave me decent protection until the last piton and belay station.
Oct 3, 2008
Fantastic. Worth the lines and the hype and the chalk and the gumbies because it's just that good. Varied, thought-provoking climbing from the bouldery start to the exposed arete at the end, just awesome moves on impeccable rock. You can get to the ground off the last rappel with a 70m rope but will have to downclimb a 5.easy chimney for about 10 feet. Definitely do the direct finish up the pin ladder if it is within your ability, the exposure is fantastic and it is well bolt protected; more of a sport climb really. It gets you to the great final arete to the little summit pyramid, from which you can scramble [prefer to do this while roped because of the serious exposure] back down to the notch where the rap's start. Definitely an Eldo must-do!!
Sep 28, 2008
First trip to Eldo. First day, down climbed east slabs from Tower One after a different route. Not bad, but holy cow what a time sucker! 2nd route, Yellow Spur: These descent directions were perfect for a non-local. Details dead on. We were even blessed with another team at the first rap with a 70. Made it to the ground of the 1st rap and we joined ropes for a single rap to the ground. Easily the fastest descent I have had, anywhere, from a 7pitch route. Thanks again for the great details.
Jun 9, 2008
Tim, I would not call the 5.7 finish to that pitch a traverse. This may be your confusion, you do not traverse left, rather you angle up (mostly) and left. As I recall you just follow the strata of rock angling up and left from where the death flake was. It is only about 5.7 but runout. I don't remember if there is any fixed gear in there. This variation used to be easier to find without the bolts and chalk leading up and right!
Jun 1, 2008
I've been up this route maybe 4 times and still have the hardest time figuring out where that 5.7 traverse at the top of the 5.9 piton ladder is. Every time I'm up there at the location of where the death flake used to be I look left and it looks unprotected, much harder than 5.7, and a ways with no bolt in sight. Rossiter's guidebook marks 2 bolts or pins to clip after the traverse. Anyone have any info to help me out here to do the standard route through the 5.7 traverse? I always feel like the only reasonable thing to do is go straight up through the 5.10 finish, but I'd like to someday do that traverse. Also, speaking of traverses off to the left on that pitch (pitch 5 in this description), there are 2 newer looking bolts off to the left that go up the face just after the second pin when ascending from the belay. They are lower than where I think the 5.7 traverse is and would be accessed before ascending the straight, piton ladder. Anyone know about these? I've never seen them before.
Jun 1, 2008
I was just up on the Yellow Spur, and it was seriously cold. Bailed and left some gear just below the dihedral on the 2nd pitch. Just 2 biners, a sling and a nut, but of course I would love to get it back, if anyone comes across it. Otherwise no worries and happy climbing. Give me an email at asafirestone@gmail.com
Apr 6, 2008
Every pitch is outstanding! Another note about the wind: after clipping my draws to the bolts on p. 5, the wind would blow them sideways, back and forth! Just when I thought I was balanced against the gust, it'd swirl and come back at me from the other direction.
Mar 22, 2008
Fun route! I lead p1, 2, &6. 1 and 2 weren't bad minus the wandering nature of the pitches. My partner had a hard time leading the bulge on pitch 3. Didn't help he got a flash pump on the first pitch, but last weekend he lead P2 of Over the Hill which is 5.9. I also thought the 3rd pitch seemed a bit tricky and could see how it would be a scary lead. My partner linked 4&5 with no event belayed on the ledge above and left of the roof where there is a pin. I thought the 6th pitch was interesting to say the least, the pin ladder isn't too bad, but it's a little awkward and pretty sustained, nice rest before the meat (at least for those doing the 5.10), you can clip the good bolt with out commiting to the sequence with some creativity. I skipped the second bolt and somehow barley clipped the third without falling off (it was windy). The sequence from here was inobvious to me as I climbed up and down a bunch. Finally committed and pretty much fell due to lack of endurance and flailing technique I am sure. I grabbed my draw before my partner even noticed I slipped (he never did actually) and I took a rest and looked over the sequence as I held myself up, then went for it barely pulling it. The move seemed more awkward and less obvious then the Northcutt Start of the Bastille and harder than Blind Faith (not a fair comparison, though). My partner has lead the last pitch of People's Choice which is 10 c/d and he thought this was harder (having also lead People's Choice many times, I think I might agree). Then again it was onsight, so I have a bias opinion. We rapped to the north of Tower 1 in the dihedral south of Swanson's 2 single 60m raps put us on the red ledge and 1 double 60m rap put us at the base of Rewritten which was pretty quick in my opinion. We topped out right as the sun went behind the mountain and hit the ground right at dark. We started climbing at about 9 am. Don't under estimate this one, I tried not to and still got humbled.
Nov 3, 2007
Just to note, the rap tree with all the slings at the top of Vertigo for the better descent is no longer there. It has been replaced by two new bolts with chains. You still go down the rock steps over the fin (marked by cairns) and when you get to the first little tree look to your left for the chains. We almost rapped off the little tree thinking the slings had been cut since there is no other tree on the ledges now.
Aug 8, 2007
Since he's my boyfriend, you bet he caught it for not placing a piece, although I forgave him because he was pumped when he pulled through it. Luckily he had placed a TCU below the roof, and I placed it in the crack above the pin and clipped into it (as advised by the people below me, sometimes I don't think straight when I get scared and forget that I can place while on second, duh), pulled the move onto the block and then reached down, and took out the TCU. He promised me next time he would protect it!! I guess he repayed me for making him follow all those runout slabs I love to lead, hahaha, he knows Eldo traverses often scare the crap out of me.
Aug 22, 2006
There is a good Alien placement just after the hard move past the pin as you start heading right. You should have given your leader hell for not placing it!
Aug 22, 2006
Did this route this past weekend and it was awesome!!! Unfortunately, I spazzed out for about 5 minutes on the first pitch crux, because I refused to unclip the piton, for fear I would take a massive swing trying to get onto the block above. The roof move was easy, it was the move after that got me, and even though I've climbed many many routes, I still have yet to take a pendulum following a traverse, and I'd rather not, thank you very much. So, thanks to the folks below that told me to breath, and put a piece in above me (thank god Danny placed that TCU down low!!), and sorry for my wankery. Once again, awesome route, and I had no trouble with the 7s traverse on the piton ladder pitch!!! By the way, has anyone ever seen someone on second take a whipper after unclipping that piton over the roof on the first pitch?!?
Aug 21, 2006
The tree at the top of pitch one is also gone, wondering if someone did a big cleanup day with the tree and the flake at the same time?
Apr 9, 2006
The death flake below the bolts is no more; at least as of last Thursday, March 23, 2006. There was some debris at the ledge but no flake. I would like to have seen it come off.
Mar 27, 2006
Wow! The THC must be running in my head a bit...I thought I was on Wunsch's the 16th...did I do the direct start this time? A. Everhart
Oct 20, 2005
Great route. Interesting climbing the whole way. Because the way the route kinda zig-zags, each ptich is "bite-sized" so even thought each pitch is pretty sustained, they are all pretty short. The only [detraction] from this route was the rank puddle of urine left at the 4th belay. I was able to identify this liquid b/c I was misfourtunate enough to drop a loop of my rope in it-lukily it had cooled to the ambient air temp of approx 55 deg.
Oct 19, 2005
Anthony, Good observation about the wind on Yellow Spur. I free soloed the route back in the mid-eighties after having it fairly wired from several lead ascents. The wind was blowing about forty mph with gusts up to maybe eightie. I was using the bolt hangers as huecos trying to get up the bolt ladder pitch. I had bloodied my fingers doing so. When I got to the final (5.6?) arete, I was more frightened than I've ever been climbing. The wind was just about blowing me off the arete. When I got to the top where the rock angles down away from the void and the climb is over, my legs wobbled beneath me and I collapsed, unable to walk until my nerves settled down.
Oct 17, 2005
My partner and I did the route last Thursday and had a great time. Amazing exposure at the belay below the bolt ladder. I have one comment to those considering this route. If you are heading out to do the route and it is windy, you may want to think twice and maybe save it for another day. At the belay below the bolt ladder the wind was pushing me around the little ledge. The anchor is bomber but something about wind seems slightly scary. All in all great route, definitely a classic.
Oct 16, 2005
"The belay below the pin ladder always seemed bomber to me." I just did this (finally) for the first time. I also noticed the belay just below the crux pitch had slightly suspect rock. I think it's because we belayed too high. We started the the crux pitch by immediatly traversing hard right. You can get a lot of gear there, but it's all based on one, fitted block about two feet by three feet that you sit on. It's unclear what is happening with it because it's fitted very well but on a slant such that if it's NOT cemented, it could slide out catastrophically. That being said, there IS a good belay lower down, just after turning the 5.8 lip is a sloping ledge with gear at the top. This is probably a better belay spot then continuing up.
Oct 9, 2005
My only recommendation is to bring draws for the piton ladder. I uh, forgot my 6 draws at the car. Got up to that pitch and saw 9 pins to be clipped and had the "oh, no" moment. Had to manufacture some draws out of wire stoppers. Also had to reach down and steal biners off lower clips. Luckily, I was able to improvise my way though this pitch.
May 31, 2005
Direct start? There are two "direct" starts. The original start is further left and leads directly to the pin at the roof. I TR'd this recently for the first time, and thought it was pretty desperate. There's some gear at first, but higher up, it's really insecure and would be hard to protect, with a ground fall possible. Further right and just left of the inside corner of the regular start is the other "direct" start. This is, in my opinion, by far the best way to start the climb. Hardest move is right off the ground with toproped protection. You can backclean to straighten the rope, and your second can either risk a swing or climb the original direct start.
Apr 15, 2005
Damn, I couldn't disagree more. The direct start is definitely a lot harder and scarier than the travese in.Pro is there, but much pumpier to place than you might expect from the ground. The piton latter is quite straightforward, perhaps a bit ballancey - last time I did it the wind was blowing and that made it a bit more interesting. The top is 10a-10c - flew off it last time - nice airy fall onto the pin (I had quite a bit of slack out), highly recommended lob.
Apr 15, 2005
We found a tri-cam placement for the opening moves on the direct start. There is a disintegrating pocket that will hold the small pink tri-cam. It will only protect you for the first few moves though, until you get to some cam placements higher up. I bounce tested the placement (200 lbs.) and it held, although a lead fall would probably blow it. Anyway, the direct start is much cooler than the traverse in, doesn't feel much harder, and is like a boulder problem until you get a few pieces in. I though the hardest part was the piton ladder, very sustained and thin. I thought the bolted 10a-10c whatever was easier and more straightforward(and bolted) I didn't want to test out the pitons at all. probably my proudest ascent in eldo. the raps went easily and take you almost directly back to where you started.
Sep 11, 2004
Direct start, direct finish, link all the pitches.
Aug 18, 2004
After numerous tries, I finally figured out how to pull the overhang on P1. This used to pump me out and make me sad. The key is to get your feet high by grabbing an undercling with the left hand and laying it back a bit. This enabled me to back step with my right foot and then stand up and grab great holds near the pin. There is one other key....keep moving...the slightest hesitation can cause a flash pump.
Jul 26, 2004
The above comment on adding belay bolts for the top crux is absurd. The belay is very solid and excellent by any standard.P.S.You could always go down in the crack some from the standard belay and put in 8 or 10 pieces so you are alittle more ccomfortable ;-) I had a thought on fixed pro though; the first pitch direct 10 start used to have a fixed pin up until about the mid 90's. Any chance of getting that replaced?
Jul 6, 2004
The belay below the pin ladder always seemed bomber to me. The AC above must be trolling.
Jun 8, 2004
"Perhaps someone should place two beefy bolts to strengthen the anchor." You bet, AC. We Anchor Faries will get right on that. Or better yet, fill out a new anchor proposal with the FHRC yourself. Or better yet still, don't waste your time. That's a solid belay and it'll never happen.
Jun 7, 2004
I find the belay below the pin ladder entirely inadequate. Well there is room for pro, it must all be placed behind suspect rock. A fall onto the belay has the possibility of rock failure and total anchor failure. There is very solid rock less than 2 feet away to the right. Perhaps someone should place two beefy bolts to strengthen the anchor. These could or course be backed up by the natural pro.
Jun 7, 2004
The pins are indeed just fine, but should not be replaced WHEN they fall out. My unsolicited $0.02.
Apr 1, 2004
The pins are just fine.
Apr 1, 2004
It's amazing to me that the classic Eldo moderate is almost sport-climb like. It has so much fixed gear, especially on the cruxes, that you are never trying to place gear before or while pulling a 9 move. In addition the .10a/b/c variation felt like a full-on sport section for a few feet (apart from the 10a rating, if you call it 10a). Now I'm not saying this isn't a great climb and some might suggest that the mix of bolts, pins and gear is in fact 'classic Eldo'. I've only climbed this once, and felt a great sense of achievement at the time, but in retrospect, the number of pins on the route left me feeling like I had been slightly cheated out of something really special. At the moment, I may get back on Yellow Spur since it is a good climb, but I am as likely to go try something I haven't done yet. If someone were to remove the pins, especially on the pin-ladder pitch, I would be rushing back to try it again. I seem to remember opportunities for decent pro (RP's, micro cams, some larger cams) without the pins. Is this not the case? Would it even be possible to remove the pins? Frankly, I'm surprised they are still there in all their ugly, mangled glory.
Apr 1, 2004
DESCENT: The notch that Charles, et.al., refer to for the Chockstone Chimney rappel is more like a huge, deep cleft...if you look for a notch like the size of the one for the belay on the last pitch of the YS, you'll never find it (well not easily). This rap is by far the best way down.
Jan 31, 2004
Now I know by some Eldo climbers standards, the Yellow Spur is not a difficult route. However it was my goal to feel confident to lead this amazing route buy the end of the 2003 summer. I must say that the route holds up to its status of being a classic Eldo climb. I would tell a future leader that they should be confident on 9 before they hop on this route, the first pitch is a bit crimpy when coming around the corner, and then the overhang is a bit intimidating. I ended up airing out the over hang, buy hanging from my hands, and then throwing a heal over the lip...felt like a V2 boulder problem. when setting a belay at the first tree. Make sure to set a directional for your second. The most rewarding pitch was by far the Layton Kor piton ladder. That airy and exposed pitch was just breath taking. the 6s arette is not to shabby either. Brian, thanks for another day for the books. Next time we're hitting up the green. Have fun, and enjoy this amazing Eldo classic.
Oct 29, 2003
Did this route again this past weekend (10/26) with a friend just because I love it so much :-)I did the first pitch by itself, then did 2 & 3 together, 4 & 5 together, and then did the top crux pitch and the arete pitch together.It was the first time doing the route and 4 pitches and I absolutely loved it!!!!!!No rope drag and you get to some nice long leads in.Have fun!! :)
Oct 28, 2003
For first-attempters: One: Girth hitch the pin below the roof on the first pitch. Clipping it will cross load your biner and will require you to retire it if you whip. Two: If you send the roof and start the traverse right up to the dead tree, protect your traverse as well as possible. This will keep your second from having a heart attack when he/she gets to the roof and has trouble....... Three: Patrick is correct in saying the .10a variation is a bit sandbagged, but do it anyway. Two nice clings on the crimpers will get you to the third bolt (one above the spinning 'relic' of sorts) and from there it's a cakewalk. I call it the Boulder Problem in the sky... And do the chutes rappel. My partner and I did it at 9pm last night and found everything fairly easily with no headlamps. Just traverse north on the Knife-blade ridge to the notch and move down 5' or so to the west to find the first set of slings. Three rappels gets you to the huge ledge. Unrope and walk/scramble north awhile to find the 165' rap chains. Hit the ground at 9:25 to see the rescue attempt in progress. Be careful out there, and thank you to all the RMS&R volunteers out there. You make a big difference even to those you don't have to drag out!~Wm
Oct 13, 2003
A friend climbed this last weekend and said she had wrong beta and didn't quite get P1 right first try. I climbed YS yesterday again leading P1 and here's my beta for first pitch... Clip the pin below the lip/roof, reach up and grab the bomber lip, step up with the right foot to a decent, yet awkward back leaning stance, stem left foot higher below upper left pin, grab a corner with left hand near that upper left pin shifting weight left, then step right foot up onto lip, shifting right hand for a high seam or palm, and shift weight back right moving up. Kinda of a back and forth stem sequence. Awkward on first try, this move IMO is not too bad for (9), once wired...In short, work that left corner, and avoid climbing straight up over the lip...
Oct 10, 2003
Classic! Don't miss the direct finish--well protected, great exposure. I'd go with 10b, although the single-move nature makes this debatable. Suggested link-up: DOUBLE SPUR. One person leads "block" of entire Yellow Spur, rap descent, second then leads "block" of entire Green Spur. Double your pleasure, double classic, ... double Spur.
Oct 9, 2003
My vote is to not remove the flake.
Sep 28, 2003
My climbing partner Dave and I had a superb eperience on this route today. We did the above mentioned "6 feet left of the regular start face/seam" I thoroughly enjoyed this and found it to be bold and bouldery but you can see the good piece from the ground. This made this pitch really fun and indead it striaghtens the rope out. I led 2 and 3 as one pitch which worked great and then did the rest as guidebood description on the rest as we caught up to people. In doing the direct finish I reflected on the flake kind of being a sentimental favorite of mine. It looks and feels about the same as it did in 1979 when I started climbing. I stood on it today to check it out and it is still there :) Overall, fabulous, aesthetic, exposed, fairly consistent fun to climb route. Took us 4.5 hours.
Sep 28, 2003
...Good beta for the Yellow Spur is...have a back up plan...if you don't want to climb behind someone, climb something else... Yes, you should have turned up 5 minutes earlier ....
Sep 8, 2003
AC- this is more appropriate for a private email, but since you've posted as AC, I'll have to respond here. You're memory of the incident is off. I never claimed I was fast... and since when is a 3+ hour ascent of the Spur fast? I simply said we'll be fine. However, I'll stand by my partner's version of events regarding the comments and gestures which I mentioned in my previous comment. She was certainly upset by the attitude she perceived from one of you guys in particular. Maybe you're speaking for yourself and not for your partner? As for your advice of not spewing and speaking my mind... thanks for the therapy consultation, but I didn't encounter you again that day. Perhaps you could take your own advice to heart and speak your mind without the security of anonymity.
Sep 8, 2003
I was told Malcolm and Aron did Icarus together, not the complete Spur...
Sep 5, 2003
Joe, A.C., As one who enjoys moving fast sometimes and has probably behaved badly in the past behind a slower team, I have some, probably obvious, comments on this situation. First, yes, if you want to be on the most popular route on a weekend, you better get up EARLY. I frequently climb in Eldo on weekday mornings, and you don't even need to be there that early to be first on any route. 6:30 a.m. will do this time of year. Of course, that only gives you first dibs on your first route, so there can still be the problem of getting behind a slower party. Weekends are tougher, of course. Around the Boulder area, I just assume anyone I meet in Eldo is a better and faster climber than me. Everyone here seems to be so good. I usually do make my intentions known if I'm out for a speed climb and ask nicely if I can go in front, if the team hasn't already started and I KNOW I can blast by. I never do this on a route that I don't KNOW I'll be fast. I think this is okay even with my assumption that they are better and faster because they might not be out for speed and want a more casual pace. If I can get by them in 5-10 minutes, then everyone has a more enjoyable climb. There are many valid reasons for the party to not want to let me pass, though. In that situation, I always respect their choice. They were there first and have the right to the route. I might try to do another route that is nearby and similar in difficulty, but that isn't always an option. Sometimes, you just have to decide to give up the speed ascent and just take things slower. I also agree with Joe that if I'm going to pass a party that has already started, I need to show them some proof that I won't be a problem for them. Whenever I do this, I try to simul-climb past the team to limit their wait and give them some confidence that we'll indeed get by quickly. I might follow the second up a pitch so that I can be ready to go by if they say it is okay, but I never follow too closely and always communicate BEFORE you get right up behind them. Finally, you always want to be overly nice in such a situation. I always defer to them, thank them profusely, acknowledge that what I'm doing is a bit goofy, but fun, at least for me. I've had great luck with this approach. Climbers in general seem really cool and really nice. They don't want to get in anyone's way if it doesn't cost them much and doesn't sacrifice their safety. I once was doing a goofy speed climb of the Yellow Spur and these cool guys let me led right over their rope on the crux pitch. I asked the belayer first and he was cool with it. Then we waited a bit for the leader to reach the belay and asked him. Everyone was cool with it. If not, I'd just have abandoned the speed ascent with no hard feelings at all. Once the speed climb is off, I do what A.C. did here. I back way off and give the team room to enjoy the climb without the pressure of having someone right on them. Bill P.S. Check out the photo of Aaron Ralston (one arm) taken by Malcom Daly (one leg) climbing the Yellow Spur!!?? Talk about inspirational! If I can speed climbing up a route and encountered these two guys, I'd shut it down completely and see if they'd let me tag along and chat with them. A more likely scenario is that they'd be speed climbing by me, though!
Sep 5, 2003
Regarding linking of pitches 1/2/3... Earlier this year I self-belayed this with a 70m rope and linked pitches 1, 2, AND 3, including moving right to belay below the easy P4 dihedral. I started using the variation just left of the regular start. I then linked pitches 4/5/6 via the bolt ladder and belayed on the slab above. A short pitch from there to the top. Many of you know this, but with self-belaying, the rope does not move, so rope drag isn't an issue. Still, I think linking 1/2/3 is feasible on the lead with a 70m rope with some judicious back cleaning and skipping of gear at the top of P1 and at the moves right and back left on P2. Then link P4 and P5, and then link P6 and P7 to the top.
Sep 4, 2003
Hey Joe Collins - Thanks for your speedy ascent of the spur, you were indeed, like you claimed, fast. In fact, until my friend checked this site, I didn't even think twice about our encounter with you on Monday. Linking the 2nd and 3rd pitches is what did the trick. And in order to support that move, we didn't link the 1st and 2nd, or the second and third, so as to let you enjoy the day with your lady and to put some space between our two groups. We did each pitch individualy and took our time. As for snickers and comments... they weren't there. At least, not from our end. Good luck with yourself though, keep climbing, and in the future say what's on your mind instead of spewing all over a site devoted to higher pursuits. Cheers.
Sep 4, 2003
Ken, just as you suspect - combining the 1st and 2nd pitches is a good link amd doesn't cause rope drag.....but the area before and after the tree is more 'sporty' for both the leader and the second if you skip or skimp on protection there. Linking these pitches is a classic "double-rope" situation. Since the first pitch is pretty challenging for some people to even follow a semi-hanging belay immediately after the bulge might be considered. It allows you to see and communicate with the second as well as saving rope abrasion in the event of a fall.
Sep 3, 2003
I always combine the 1st two pitches. I either do the direct start, or do the variation slightly left of the 5.9 start (mentioned above.) This allows you to climb the 3rd pitch and walk along the ledge and setup a better belay for the 4th pitch.
Sep 3, 2003
Just curious if anyone has tried combining pitches 1 & 2? If you did the direct start and climbed left of the tree at the 1st belay, it seems the rope would be running pretty straight and might be less rope drag than combining pitches 2 & 3.
Sep 3, 2003
Time for a little lesson in crag manners. We got up pretty early yesterday and headed up to do the Yellow Spur. While racking up at the base a party of two arrives, clearly unhappy that they had to wait for us to start. 'Are you guys gonna move pretty fast?', one asks, hoping that we'll allow these Potter-esque speed demons to go first. 'We'll be fine,' I reply. While I led the first pitch, my partner is forced to listen to numerous, 'we should have gotten up 5 minutes earlier,' comments, as if we're preventing them from their record breaking speed ascent of the Spur. My partner is slow to warm-up sometimes, and she struggled through the crux of the first pitch, clearly upset due to the pressure and snickers from below. As I linked pitches 2+3, their leader nears the first belay and proceeds to make gestures to his belayer, as if to say, 'I can't help that I'm waiting... these gumbies are holding me up,' while my partner watches from no more than 15 feet away. Anyway, by the time we rack up at the base of the pin ladder pitch, their leader has just left the belay tree at the TOP OF PITCH 2! In fact, we had enough time to hang out on top, do the Chockstone/Vertigo rappels, eat lunch, get thwarted by the first crux of Parting Shot, and lead Green Spur by the time these clowns were halfway down the Dirty Deed rappels. So folks, know the rules of the game. If you want to be first on the most classic 5.9 in the state, on a holiday weekend, then you'd better get up early. If you're going to pass a party, and at the base of the climb no less, then you'd better be sure that you're way, way faster. My general rule for letting parties pass is to show me the proof: either be someone who I know by reputation is a fast climber, or be clearly held up by my party for multiple consecutive pitches. If the guys who we encountered at the base read this, then you should be ashamed and embarrassed by your behavior, especially in light of your subsequent crawl to the top of the Spur.
Sep 2, 2003
Beware the chalked up sucker holds on the wall immediately above the "scary detached flake (tm)." If you are baffled, feel around - there are better holds than those that may not be chalked. Thin, mind you. But better.
Aug 14, 2003
Linking pitches: See above for linking pitches 1&2. On Sunday I self-belayed this with a 70m rope and linked pitches 1-3 and 4-6, finishing with a short pitch to the top. When self-belaying, rope drag is not an issue, but I think linking pitches 1-3 would be reasonable even if you're leading if done as follows: Either do the 10b start or do the 9+ variation and back clean until you get to the first pin below the roof (second can do the 10b start). Then, as described above, run it out to the left of the tree to the base of the dihedral on P2 (possibly placing a piece before reaching the dihedral and then backcleaning it). When you traverse right out of the dihedral run it out until you reach the belay at the end of P2. Keep going straight up to the belay on P3. Place gear and hike right to a belay just left of the dihedral on P3. Linking pitches 4-6 on the lead is probably not a good idea due to rope drag and communication difficulty. Since a 70m rope won't reach to the top in 2 pitches anyway (I'm pretty sure), link pitches 4 and 5, then link pitch 6 via the bolt ladder and pitch 7. Descending via the Dirty Deed gully to the north and then down the West Chimney goes in 3 easy rappels with a 70m. But see elsewhere for a discussion where some people discourage using this descent due to rockfall danger.
Jun 9, 2003
Climbed The Yellow Spur for the first time this weekend. Yes, the sketchy flake is still there waiting to pop off. Indeed, it sounded a bit hollow. Not knowing exactly where the route went from the flake, I climbed the 5.10a(c) variation and made an awkward move to the right at a piton. A fun climb with good exposure.
May 5, 2003
ANOTHER VARIATION TO START:Yesterday, my partner Luke Clarke and I climbed a nice variation to the start of Yellow Spur. About 6 feet left of the regular start, climb the face just left of a shallow right racing corner. The moves off the ground are the crux and go at about 9+ if you can reach the first big hold. The moves are well protected by a yellow Alien. The gear above, up to the roof, is good. This start is more straightforward than the regular start and has much better pro and much less rope drag. The only caveat is that you need to be able to reach that first hold. If you can't, it might be about 11a. There are some half-joint holds lower down, but it's overhanging off the ground with not much for your feet.
Mar 9, 2003
Another stupid near-death story - Once upon a time I climbed this with 2 others. Pretty high up on the route (I don't remember exactly where, but it's the last belay from decent sized ledges), I was in 3rd position and it being a hot summer day and a long wait, I fell asleep on the ledge. In the meantime, the 2nd person (that was not terribly experienced) took off on follow. I woke up, stretched, and realized that I was no longer clipped into the belay and was attached to the rock only by the rope pulled up to belay me with.
Mar 3, 2003
naclassics.com/climbs/yello… Nice trip report. Mr Stanley is a very lucky guy.
Oct 2, 2002
We climbed this recently, and looked at, but didn't touch the P5 death flake. I would suggest steering clear of that sucker. The flake has an aura about it these days. Its there, it has historical significance, like a mile marker, but nobody knows wheather to use it, or not, for fear that they will be the one to...dislodge it. The Spur is such a beautiful climb, but it could use a little maintenance. Not the removal of the flake or any other stone or hardware. But the chaulk! The 5.10 start looks like someone dumped a bag of flour off the top of the ledge. Wouldn't it be cool if the park had a portable high pressure cleaning system for the rock routes. Where they rappel down these classics and pressure wash the slippery caked chalk off once in awhile. I'd pay a few extra bucks for that. No, I don't use drugs...anymore.
Sep 5, 2002
Great climb!!!Being from the East Coast (VA), it was it was a lot better than the stuff Im use to! I like the balance'y move on the Spur-- Amazing moves! Makes me think I should stop visiting CO and just move there.
Sep 3, 2002
2 things - - The Flake - the earliest description I could find of the yellow spur dates back to 1980 from Pat Ament's Eldo guidebook as follows "lead six will air out your knickers and climbs straight up a vertical, yellow wall past a loose flake" IMHO - there are a lot of hollow, loose flakes in Eldo - if it seems sketchy, don't yard on it - this flake in particular has been known for at least 22 years, probably longer, everyone knows it's there - tread lightly - Eldo is not a sport park and does not need to be cleaned like one - The Descent - (brief edit to Charles's contribution) from the top of the route hand traverse north into the gully, head down the gully to the east, veer right to some trees at the top of Ruper, turn back west from Ruper and follow the ramp up into a notch, keep heading west through the notch, head down the west side and find some new bolts on your left, rap with one 60m rope to a dirt patch on the ground, this will use all your rope, make sure the ends are even, cross the gully and scramble up the fin, scramble down some steps and locate the tree for the Vertigo raps on your left, there are many multi colored slings on this tree, it should be obvious, one single 60m rap will take you over the roof to a two bolt chained anchor, another will get you to the ledge, one double rope rap will get you to the ledge
Aug 23, 2002
I tended to feel similarly, and was apprehensive about posting the idea of removing it at all, but it seemed worth while just to seek some thoughts on it. Thanks for keeping Eldo a wonderful place, guys. Glad to be climbing around quality minds.peace
Aug 3, 2002
I guess I'll chime in with my opinion, for what its worth. I agree with George, Guy and Charles. Climbing -- especially classic, trad routes, but in general -- is more than just the movement over the rock. It is the entire experience; dangerous, beautiful, scary, challenging, rewarding. I think the rock/route should be allowed to evolve naturally. There is a place for pulling off loose rock (I enjoy climbing at Rifle), but I don't think this is it. I did this route about 2 weeks ago with my girlfriend, she led the "flakey" pitch, and neither of us felt the flake was overly concerning. Climb delicately.
Aug 1, 2002
Leave the flake be!! If you are really scared, climb around it--I've done the direct finish at least two times without touching the flake, whether pulling on it or standing on it. There are many such flakes and blocks that could be trundled in Eldo, but unless they are truly right on the verge of popping, we should leave them in place--climbing softly at times should be part of the game.
Jul 30, 2002
I agree with Guy. Since you have to STAND atop this flake to do the direct finish, it can't be that close to going. Just don't pull out on it with all your strength, pull down. Last time I was up there it just wobbles slightly and still seems well seated. It also does not threaten the lower section of the route due to the rightward traverses, although it could still make a hell of a mess - it must weigh 500 lbs. To make it idiot proof one could perhaps put a cable around it to keep it from falling outward.
Jul 30, 2002
Removing this "death" flake will change the character of the direct finish. It would most likely increase the difficulty of the route by a couple letter grades. If you don't feel comfortable climbing near this flake, don't climb the Yellow Spur.
Jul 30, 2002
I always thought that an Eldo cleanup day could yield ample opportunity to flag off the area around the base so someone could pry the damn thing off. Of course, like Adam, I do appreciate the 'natural lay of things' and wouldn't want to upset anyone's aesthetic valus, so it will remain argued without passion from this end.
Jul 30, 2002
Put a bolt in the back of the flake with a hanger. Attach a chain. place a bolt in the wall that would keep the chain very close to taught. If the flake starts to go, the chain will keep it in place. hehehhhehhh. lol or lots of glue.... lol! -Dont mess with the flake. Eventually it will fall. It may kill somebody. That sux.
Jul 28, 2002
Wondering if anyone could inform me of any theories on removing the death flake from the Yellow Spur. While I do appreciate the expressive natural lay of things, it seems to me that the chances for it coming off and causing serious injuring or killing a climber (or entire party) are great enough that at least some ideas should be passed around. e-mail thoughts: climbhoser@yahoo.com
Jul 28, 2002
Yes, the death flake is still there. As mentioned, I did have an accident on 5/26/02 following the easy traverse on P4 that sent me upside-down on a pendulum for about a 20-foot whipper. First time on the route, started with the direct start and they were great. Pieced together from what people have told me and what I remember, this is what I believed happened: Right off the belay I found a finger crack with my left hand and reached about 3 feet to the right to a huge jug and stepped across. As soon as I did that I heard the sound of cracking sandstone and began to fall backwards. Either the rock, which from others I hear was the size of half a car, fulcrumed off my left middle finger and severed it or, as I fell with the newly separated boulder, my body weight pulled off the finger. I will never know. I hit back first and smacked my head pretty good; I was wearing a helmet which certainly saved further injury. After righting myself and finding my finger attached by a thread and in the palm of my hand, I had my partner, Pat Sullivan, lower me to the ledge at the top of pitch 2 where Mike Robertson and Julie Garrison lowered me to the ground. I don't know how but thankfully no one on the ground was hurt by the rock fall. I was very lucky and happy to only sever a finger (which was re-attached and doing fine, ugly but fine), as I should have lost a lot more. Out of the 4 people on the route at the time I was the only one wearing a helmet, glad it was me and not them. Thanks to all those who helped, the calls, the first aid, the aspirin, the shirts and the short-rope to the waiting ambulance, you know who you are, thank you. Be Careful ccs
Jun 12, 2002
Actually, I asked Cole Stanley whether his accident had accured at the Death Flake mentioned as nauseum on this page. His accident occured lower on the wall, so we DO STILL need to be careful wich the said death flake... WT
Jun 10, 2002
Interesting to see the comments about the loose flake above...guess we won't have to worry about that anymore...
Jun 8, 2002
I did this route for my first time yesterday. WOW! What a pretty climb. There are some great lie-backs, and stems. We linked it into 4 pitches to save time. On the traverse before the crux pitch, I didnt use any big gear, and found the fixed pro to be sufficient. However, I did put a .75 cam about half way through it in a crack inside the wide crack... My partner lead the crux bolt ladder, and I found that part to be pretty stiff, but its well bolted. The loose flake mentioned is pretty hard to avoid, but it seemed to be wedged in there pretty good, so, definately just tread lightly on there. Cant say enough good stuff about this one...
May 20, 2002
I've placed a #3 Camalot at the exit of the crack as backup to the fixed Bong. But you can also place a bomber small piece somewhere in the middle of the traverse (orange or red Alien / #1 Camalot?) on a small crack above the large traverse crack. I felt the crux is the exit of the roof at the end of the traverse, not the traverse itself. Place a LONG runner on the piece BEFORE you start the traverse or rope drag will kill you on the thin 8+ corner above the traverse.... Have fun, WT
Apr 22, 2002
Anyone ever place a BIG cam on the P5 traverse? how big?
Apr 22, 2002
Not sure if anyone else stated this. On the crux pitch of the Spur, before you clip the first bolt, there is a death flake that is totally detached. You basically have to pull and stand on this thing, too. It's not loose looking from below either, so just pull lightly.!!!!
Jan 14, 2002
Aging lawyer Michael Gilbert soloed it in 17 minutes (bottom to top).
Dec 19, 2001
Charles, that being said, someone did take a pretty good fall to yank and bend that bolt. I certainly hope it didn't bend like that on a simple hang. So for those who WILL do something pretty stupid beware of the second bolt.
Aug 7, 2001
The second bolt may be bent, but you've got a great modern bolt about 3 feet below it and another 3 feet above it! You'd have to do something real stupid to take anything more than a hang on the bent one, and even a hang would be pretty ridiculous. The crux doesn't start until you clip bolt #3 anyhow.
Jul 23, 2001
What a great route. A couple of comments: Combined pitch 4 and 5 as suggested and had a rope drag nightmare after clearing the roof. Next time I will move the belay to the base of the 5.4 dihedral (20 feet to the right) and put an extra long sling before starting the roof traverse. The second bolt on the 10C variation, pitch before last, is about 1/4" out of the wall and bent. Someone took a screamer on this baby. If I had to bet, I'd give it less than 50% chance that it'll hold another fall. Proceed with caution.
Jul 21, 2001
Actually, if you want to get really nutty about combining pitches on this route, you can link the first pitch with the second. The best way to do this is to do the direct 5.10b/c start and place gear above the big roof. Now, run it out over easy ground back right and up to the tree - make sure to pass the tree on the LEFT side, and DON'T clip the belay there. Traverse out to the left to the start of the difficulties on the second pitch, and place gear there. Your rope will now almost drop in a straight line to the ground. Now, would I recommend this? Not really. I only used it once when I simul-climbed the entire route (with an extremely good climber as the second).
Jan 1, 2001
Great route, I do it at least once a year! You can combine many of the pitches if you want to zoom up the route (not recommended for your first time). Pitch 1 is short but impossible to combine due to its zig-zag nature. But after that, even with a 50m rope, you can combine 2&3, 4&5, 6&7 to make the whole climb a 4 pitch route! These pitch numbers refer to those in Rossiters guide, note that in Charles description he has already combined 4&5. You must be careful with your pro when you combine some of these or you will get massive rope drag, so do it the traditional way uthe first time.
Jan 1, 2001
- Ytrid Deed, The
No one to date appears to have submitted a description for Dirty Deed. Indeed, Ytrid Deed is in the same area, but it is a different route. Consider submitting a description if you've done it.
Sep 15, 2009
Not the same route. Ytrid=dirty backward. Reference paragraph 4 of the route description.
Sep 15, 2009
Larry has a good point; when did this go from "Dirty Deed" to "Ytrid Deed" and why?
Sep 15, 2009
Wondering why I couldn't locate this route in these pages, I finally found it with the current improbable spelling. It reminds me of my days as a telecom tech where one of the favorite quotes was 'spelling don't count.' Apparently, grammar doesn't either, but please....
Sep 15, 2009
Did this route 11/27/08. Really fun climb and classic. I didn't think there was any loose rock to speak of. We did it as in Rossiter's book and it was great. The first pitch was 5.7, 2nd felt like 5.6 and the third was 5.5. Decent through East Slabs. Since it's not described here, I'll describe the first pitch. From the Dirty Deed alcove, climb the short 45 degree ramp left to gain the arete. Then climb just right of the arete to the Red Ledge belaying at one of several trees on this ledge. This felt like 5.7 to my partner and I.
Nov 28, 2008
Did this today...and I'd highly recommend it. I don't remember any loose rock to speak of, certainly no more than the average Eldo route. Route-finding was easy--a very direct line with mostly continuous cracks, pro seemed good, and the position was quite nice. It's also quite a bit more mellow than its neighbor Icarus, despite having the same rating. If you are in the area to climb one of the more popular routes, and find your chosen line festooned with parties, definitely consider this a worthy alternative.
May 28, 2003
Fun climb. Most of this route feels about 5.5, but with the abundance of loose rock (check those holds!), unique exposure, and somewhat dirty holds (or is that Ytrid?), it feels 5.6. there is a multitude of ways to do any number of the climbs on this fine face, as Tony describes--just go up and link something together. There are some sections of truly wonderful climbing, but with some downright crappy sections, too. If this area were to clean up a bit, it would be a moderate mecca--oops, it already is; it was a zoo this past Sunday! More on that note: my partner and I were the first ones to this area on Sunday; and started up the Great Zot to access the Red Ledge. There was a party of three behind us that were doing Rewritten, and the leader started just after me, knowing full-well that these two climbs intersect and finish in the same crack. Well, as I was setting up for the crux, the lady was a mere four feet to my left, asking where she should traverse over to gain the crack. I was barely able to get my feet above the pod before she was hot on my heels! Then, of course, my partner had to endure the same situation when the two followers were jones'n to get themselves all tangled up in our rope! Anyone else feel that this is a little bunk?
Oct 21, 2002
- Redgarden - Tower Two
- 10,000 Leagues
Thanks for the comment, and all your awesome routes, Topher! I'm a pretty bad route-grader, so I just gave this route the grade I felt was appropriate. If I remember Lene's Dream correctly, the crux of that pitch comes just before joining the Edge, whereas 10k Leagues breaks left sooner. But haven't climbed either route in a while, so take that with a grain of salt. Glad to hear there's more terrain on this route that I didn't find the first time, I'll definitely have to go back up and try it again.
Mar 17, 2014
Good to hear this climb is getting a bit of traffic and quality assessment by the experts, but I am a bit curious how it could get an easier grade than Lene's Dream, when you have to do the crux of Lene's Dream en route? Also, on the pitch Scott describes as pitch 2, it appears he exited left early. This pitch is drawn in too far left in Levin's book. On the FA, we angled right until just a few feet from the 5.8 pitch on The Edge, (as close as you can get during the closed season and still be legal!) then stepped left (where we placed a red tricam in a pocket) and climbed a 3" crack before stepping again right onto a steep, hueco wall with insane exposure just left of the 5.8 pitch of The Edge. Anyway, this line kind of straightens out Jules Verne from the ground to the summit. On the FA, we also climbed the direct variation of the real pitch 1 of Jules Verne (going straight up at the long dihedral after leaving T2 rather than left to the bolts) which has been claimed a few times as an FA with various grades but was probably first climbed by Malcolm Daly in the late '80s.
Dec 27, 2013
A few more notes: Steve Levin calls for Tricams and Slider-nuts. I brought 'em, but they stayed on my harness the whole time. I did find C3s to be useful. Also, this route might not merit a three star rating on its own, but the climbing on Jules Verne is mega-classic, and the position is amazing. If it were clean, maybe it'd be a different story, but I don't think that'll happen soon. -Scott
Dec 6, 2012
- After The Gold Rush
Just saw this surfing MP from the couch. Starting to get back to climbing again after shoulder surgery this year. Hope I can get back to where I can get on this. Looks awesome! Nice job, guys!
Nov 12, 2013
A fun route but p.1 is maybe the most sandbagged climbing I've been on in Eldo. P.3 on The Wisdom is a good warmup for this thin monster. I love the Arete on p.2....
Feb 3, 2013
Such a great route! Thanks for putting this one up. HK
Jan 29, 2013
WOW, what a wild line! Thanks guys, this route is worthy. Both pitches are far from "one-move-wonders"! P1 features sustained, hyper-techy crimps and stems up a blank corner; I kept thinking that I'd done the crux, only to find one more baffling sequence. P2 is a sampler plate of Eldo weirdness (in a good way). We felt like there were four different cruxes, from 5.11- to 5.12-. Burly reaches, heady crimping, powerful arete climbing, and a funky roof to cap it all! This route gets plenty of sun; I hope it see a bunch of traffic this winter. It's a safe outing for the Eldo 12a leader. -Scott
Nov 14, 2012
Wow! Thanks for dragging me up the second pitch, Eric. What an impressive pitch: multiple cruxes, varied climbing, incredible position. 12a sounds right... if you have x-ray vision for blind holds and endless endurance!
Oct 24, 2012
Nice work, guys! We saw you putting in the final bolts when we did Green Willow Wall last week. Your new climb is a proud looking line! I can't wait to sample it. Thanks for the hard work.
Oct 8, 2012
This route was approved during the 2012 Summer/Fall FHRC session. Here is a link to the application. All bolts are 0.5" x 4.75" stainless steel. A black Alien &/or RP will protect the moves to the first bolt on pitch 2. Thanks to the FHRC for facilitating the new route process. Enjoy. aceeldo.org/fhrc/applicatio…
Oct 8, 2012
Yo, punters! Nicely done! Once again Eric proves he has more energy then 12 monkies jacked up on copious amounts of espresso. Mike does a great job gettin' it done and keepin an eye out for Eric. Classic name to boot. Steve S.
Oct 8, 2012
- Avoid the Rush
- Between Heaven and Earth
It's worth noting that it's easy to traverse right from the top of the Edge's second pitch to the base of the crux pitch (5.7-ish). This opens up some higher quality climbing, Lene's Dream, Genius Loci, etc, for the approach. Fantastic route. Respect and thanks to Eric for the hard work and vision.
Nov 11, 2017
The crack does not need bolts, it takes gear. The addition of bolts on the crack would likely not be approved by ACE. Be seriously careful getting to the third bolt, that shit is choss. Someone needs to go up with a bucket and clean it. Super fun route Eric, thanks for putting in the work!
Apr 15, 2017
I can understand not wanting to bolt too close to The Diving Board. As far as the long draws go, I think that's just a matter of personal style, I don't want to blaspheme too hard here, but I'm also considering bringing a kneepad up there, Ha! I think it's cool that the upper section is not bolted, b/c it leaves room for folks to place gear on the lead as the fixed nuts are easily removable and would be a fun goal to work towards. Props to EJ for putting this thing up, I remember watching you working on it up there last spring thinking about how crazy it would be to climb up there! EDIT: the kneepad doesn't really help, but I still managed to get the pinkpoint, so I guess the TRUE second ascent is still up for grabs, whatever that means. I'd be interested to know what style EJ used when he did it. It looks like there's pre-placed gear in some of the pictures Wes Cables put up. Anyways, the long slings will be off Friday/Saturday after my buddy Ben has a chance to send. Slings are down, last pitch seems unnecessarily dangerous getting to the third bolt on the arete, the gear you get before it is dubious at best, kind a silly for a route that didn't go ground up.
Apr 15, 2017
Thanks for keeping it spicy, EDJ! Concerning fixed draws and slings, it seems like this is exactly the route that shouldn't have them.
Apr 15, 2017
Psyched to see activity up there! As far as I know, it awaits the second ascent. This is an Eldo style bolt/gear route (not a sport pitch). Given the proximity to the Edge and the D.B., bolting it as a sport pitch wasn't considered. It feels adventurous up there to be sure, but if you are thoughtful with the the gear in the section up to the third bolt, it is safe. Reaching to the sixth bolt off the stance at the D.B. feels sporty the first time, but it is easy. One could place a good piece on the D.B. to protect here then step down and back clean it. This bolt was placed above the stance to not detract from the D.B.. On the last pitch, people have fallen onto the first bolt failing to latch the bucket and been fine. Close to the ledge, yes, just have your belayer be on point and maybe clip with a single locker. The blind bolt feels hard to clip the first time up. This was placed as such to not affect the Edge in any way. The cam that protects the stand up into the good stem that allows you to clip is adequate. Get it! Good effort, Corey. It was hard enough for me to just clip the pre-placed gear! I should have cleaned the stoppers, but they were pretty welded from dogging around up there. I'd be psyched for someone to do it in better style for sure. I also wanted to lead the whole thing (2nd and 3rd) in one but lost my nerve the day I got the crux clean. It would make for a super lead! The other variation that I wanted to do connects into wingless victory at its third bolt from the last crux on BHE, so that awaits a contender....
Apr 15, 2017
Corey, we just got on it yesterday, and firstly thank you for the fixed draws! Without those it would be quite scary, I agree. Sort of seems out of nature for sport pitch to have those sections made so dangerous with the bolt spacing. I'd advocate for a another bolt or two. The fixed nuts are sure nice, but fixed gear is fixed gear, so why not finish bolting? I'd happily contribute to such an effort. The bolting on the 12a pitch also is a bit dubious, one could fully hit the ledge if you blew the moves to the second bolt (or above it). If you want to leave your long slings in place, I'll also gladly contribute to that effort! All that said, this is truly one of the best pitches I've climbed in the Front Range. Many thanks and kudos to the FA team!
Apr 14, 2017
I'd be curious to know how many people have been on this line. I first rapped in to Traxion this thing last October, and there were fixed nuts up the gear protected portion of the crux pitch. I've made two trips up from the ground over the past ten days, and it doesn't seem like there has been that much traffic considering the same nuts are still fixed in place and the amount of crumbly choss on the pitch breaking off from the Naked Edge. Some notes for those curious: there are two sections on the crux pitch that seem pretty dangerous, getting to the third and sixth bolts, albeit they are on easier sections of climbing. In the description given, it says you will find gear in these sections, this may be true, but it will not make you feel safe. Kind of suspect given how closely spaced some of the other bolts are. I have left long slings on the bolts in question for the sake of my own longevity while working the route. For any detractors, I am close and they will be down soon. Other than the slight spice factor, this thing rocks, and it would be cool to see other folks throwing down up there.
Apr 13, 2017
Warning: this route will steal your lunch money if given the chance, hope you ate your Wheaties.
Oct 20, 2016
THE "King Line" in Eldo. Excellent effort, Eric!
Feb 9, 2016
Great effort and addition to Eldo! Way to go, Eric!
Oct 23, 2015
Thank you to everyone who has supported this project, especially ACE/FHRC and Steve M. at the state park! Also a nod to Jeff Lowe for having the vision and name for this line.
Jul 22, 2015
- Bolter's Lament
- Bolting for Glory
Did not feel at all slippery on this perfect October day. Glad I finally got on it. Been wanting to for a while.
Oct 10, 2015
The new bolts are great, Mike. Many thanks. I agree the holds are slick but felt OK this morning. Get on it early.
Aug 1, 2014
Plated 5-piece Powers with SS hangers. Will go back up there and replace the PS with SS sometime in 2013. It sounds like the PS/SS mix should have a pretty long lifetime, but I'd rather get it right sooner.
Jan 7, 2013
Stainless steel?
Jan 7, 2013
Hardware replaced 6/14/2012 - 4.75" x 0.5" Powers 5-piece + Fixe hangers. Go git 'r done.
Jan 7, 2013
Matt, please feel free to submit an app to the Park and replace those old bolts. The system relies on people like you to get those bolts upgraded, and the routes that could use it are endless.
May 1, 2012
This route consists of 4 SMC bolts. I think that the hardware could be upgraded and should be upgraded.
May 1, 2012
This route was slippery the first time I did it in 1991, and feels the same every time since. 10a feels spot on. Every route feels harder in the sun.
Oct 14, 2007
Yes it's still slippery. Weird to be clipping bolts in Eldo. Fun, short route.
Sep 9, 2007
Yep, pretty slick in all the hard spots making it seem like one of the harder 10a's the other day. Mebbe someone's greasing up the holds with spray on Pam cooking oil. Replacing those twenty year old bolts would probably be timely. If the first spinner blows, you will definitely eat the ledge, that would suck.
Jun 7, 2007
It is not getting any less slick. Time for an up-grade on the rating if it is a warm day. I soloed this thing in 1995 on my way up to The Naked Edge. These days I am more likely to fall off of this than The Edge itself.
Jun 3, 2007
Nice route, more direct than the second half of T&G, kind of slippery. There's definitely a bolt past the hueco.
Nov 19, 2005
I never saw a bolt after the hueco hole that you sling... I kinda climbed up and left to the anchors. Hmmm...
Oct 17, 2005
Excellent moves past four well placed bolts, though the polished and somewhat greasy holds made this feel a bit harder than 5.10a to me. The first hanger still spins.
Nov 5, 2004
Yeah, the first hanger is still loose but felt safe nonetheless. Really nice pitch and recommended for variety after P1 of Touch and Go.
Sep 20, 2004
This was a great route, it got me thinking more than most 10a's. Maybe thats just me though. The edges felt slick and not very secure but the moves are all at the 10a level, just intimidating. As for a crux I thought it wasn't definitivly at the 3rd bolt but throughout because of the lack of security in the footholds. Also, beware the first bolt hanger is loose and spinning.
Jun 22, 2004
This route was great! The start is a little stiff, or at least it was for me, but over all it was good. Good crimps toward the top and lots of good route finding. I would recommed this at the route to take if trying to get to the first pitch of the naked edge.
Jun 10, 2004
Great route! The first bolt is spinning on its hanger! The rest are in good condition. Bring a sling to sling a hole between the fourth and fifth bolts. I was not sure how to finish the climb but I swung over the dihedral and joined Touch and Go [before the] bolts.
Oct 27, 2003
A green (#2) Splitter cam is useful for the pull over the edge after the 4th bolt. Not necessary, but feels more secure. The rating seems right for the crux at the 3rd bolt.
Sep 19, 2002
The holds are getting slicker as the years go by....
Mar 7, 2002
- Briny Deep, The
- Cave Pitch
Really no bird crap left. I find it quite fun now.
Nov 18, 2017
A #4 Friend is not necessary, per se, but not knowing where to place it? Seems to me that you are never more than a foot from a bomber 4" placement if you are looking. A #3 Camalot can be walked up between narrower sections of the crack, but a #4 is probably ideal other than that you don't really need it again thereafter.
Mar 19, 2017
A #4 Friend is not necessary. Not even sure where one would place it. I placed a #0.5 Camalot. Then a good green or purple C3 (blue or black Alien) and a small nut, then back cleaned the 0.5. Then pulled the roof.
Dec 31, 2008
A really great, unique pitch. I like the "face-out/chimney" move entering the crux.
Dec 23, 2008
A wild move for 5.8, too bad the start is marred by tons of bird crap.
Nov 4, 2007
A #3 and #3.5 Camalot are fine for this short and fun pitch. I'd say it has less bird shit than any other route to the Upper Ramp. If the Upper Ramp is your destination and want a direct route, this is the one.
May 25, 2005
Isn't this pitch part of T2?
May 8, 2004
A #4 Friend is critical for protecting the moves out of the cave.
Apr 14, 2003
- Centaur
The bolts on pitch two were replaced with fat glue-ins. The 1/4" bolt at the belay for the first pitch was also replaced with a fatty.
Nov 11, 2017
This route is fantastic. The crux pitch is somewhat unusual for Eldo: bit of funk, but also some thug climbing, and no sharp grips. The 12+ pitch might be even cooler, with amazing position, and lots of interesting climbing. All the fixed gear is due for an update. It would also make sense to put in a two bolt belay, at the no-hands stance atop the crux pitch. Well done, Chris!
Nov 10, 2017
Also the last pitch is nails hard for 12c, I would say closer to 13a given how hard the sequence is gaining the finger seam, which may be easier if you are on the tall side. Maybe I just haven't quite figured it out yet.... Edit: Was able to send-taur the crux pitch today, 12/6/17, in sub 40 degree connies. I kept numbing out in the shade trying to finish off the 12c pitch, I had a frozen foot pop after the crux on my best go. Bummer, oh well, will have to come back to complete the "send." Such rad climbing!
Nov 15, 2017
Thanks Matt for replacing those bolts! I just rapped in on them today, and they are mucho confidence inspiring. For those interested, you can rap into both pitches by fixing 1 70m rope. You'll have about 20/30 feet to spare.
Nov 15, 2017
Chris N., this differs from the aid route only in that the crux has now been free climbed, which typically warrants "new" or "first" status.
Aug 6, 2015
Where is the new in this new 1st ascent? How does this differ from the old aid climb Centaur?
Aug 3, 2015
Nice job, Chris!
Nov 25, 2012
- Contest, The
It's been 19 years since I did this route, although I remember it being really high quality, in spite of its short length. It climbs much better than it looks. I'm 6', and I don't remember a problem clipping any of the bolts.
Apr 6, 2013
A great pitch that offers a good pump and quite stout for the grade. I first redpointed the route in Fall, 1988. The first ascent recorded their ascent in a notebook at the Boulder Mountaineer. I remember that they rated the climb 5.11d/12a. I climbed the route numerous times between 1988 & 1993 and have occasionally revisited the route over the years since. Returning to it and comparing it to other Front Range sport climbs, I'd have to call it .12a. I have always felt it deserved that rating. The individual moves aren't that hard, but the continuous nature of the climbing with the crux coming at the end of the hard climbing, before reaching the arete, adds up to a 5.12a pump. Much harder than the nearby "La Boomerang". As for the number of bolts, there are 6 protection bolts and one piton. The 5th bolt wasn't originally part of the route and is a bolt on "No Contest". This is the bolt on the left side of the arete. Clip it with a long sling & then clip out of once reaching the last bolt, to eliminate rope drag.
Mar 26, 2013
Agree that the first bolt would be a tough clip for shorter folks, but you could also place gear in the flake to protect the start. Quite pumpy, but I didn't find it too sharp or painful. -Scott
Oct 15, 2009
Shorter climbers may want to stick clipt he first bolt, but taller ones can clip it while still standing on the ramp. Climbing through the crux is thrilling as you're leaving the bolt behind you with a bit of a pump and a fall would result in a good swinger if you've passed the crux. Good sports action for the spectators.
Jan 3, 2003
- Diving Board, The
The quality of the upper pitches on this climb cannot be overstated. It's as good as any crack climb at its grade in the Boulder area. The approach pitches, well ...yeah they kinda suck. I found no need for a #5 cam, a #4 fit perfectly at the crux. The traverse in from Redguard (described as pitches 1 and 2) is sketchy and loose, even by Eldo standards. Setting a belay and breaking these into 2 pitches would be ill-advised as Joseffa noted. Bird shit factor was moderate but not enough to detract from the overall quality.
Nov 20, 2017
Thanks, Joseffa, for the updated beta. It has been years since I have been back on The Diving Board. I will plan to get back on this exhilarating route and update the description!
Nov 22, 2016
The fixed pin on P1 of the description above is hard to clip if you're short and not 5.8. I can't imagine setting an optional belay here with the bad rock. The traverse into the 10c corner isn't bad and protects with blue and green Aliens, it's not "R" rated. A new #4 BD Camalot was nice to have on the 10c pitch after the traverse and just when starting the corner. A #5 Camalot is recommended for the final pitch. The death block is gone at the raptor nest. There was lots of bird poop but no live birds to bother us last weekend.
Nov 22, 2016
Jim Logan and I linked into Diving Board from the Edge around '97 on the suggestion of a friend. One pitch from the 2nd pitch belay of the Edge to the top of Pigeon Flake. Maybe it was 5.9 and with a heady run out getting to the left side of the Flake. There was a scary amount of loose rock along that left side of Pigeon Flake. It wouldn't endanger your belayer, but anybody along the base of Redgarden along T2 to start of Redgard would be threatened.
Mar 9, 2015
Still very poopy but fun. Redguard approach isn't the greatest. I was thinking it would be fun to link in from the Naked Edge. Great exposed climbing once you get to it.
Mar 5, 2015
A few helpful notes: from the top of Pigeon Flake, the two bolts are on a slab a ways down to the right; you can belay from there, but this results in rope drag and poor communication with the leader, or sit on the top of the flake with a long extension to the anchor plus other gear. The traverse into the corner pitch (P3 per MP description) is not too hard but heady due poor rock and pin quality. After that, you can plug a good #4 Camalot at the base of the corner for an anchor before moving up. I found the last pitch with the wide crack to be no harder than the corner pitch below both around 10c. Sure it is wide ... and etc... but more info would be too much.
Sep 6, 2014
CAUTION: On 6/14/14, while leading p3 (the 10c dihedral) of the Diving Board, I dislodged a substantial chockstone while using it for a hand hold. I estimate the chockstone moved from 6" to 12", but it did not come out. However, it is likely to come out if it is pulled on again. Trundling it would have been too dangerous, so it is likely still in there. Said chockstone is (or was, if it has fallen out since 6/14) near the base of the wide-ish crack at the top of the dihedral, just before exiting to lower-angle face moves. It had been there, and used as a hand hold, for some time, as the top of it was heavily chalked. Please exercise caution when negotiating your way around this chockstone. It is a time bomb that could hurt you, or parties below, if it is knocked loose.
Jul 9, 2014
A funny story of my first attempt at the Diving Board - probably 1975: Mark Ward and I drove over from Provo, Utah to work the classics. XM, Outer Space, Blackwalk, etc. Mark was belaying from the Pigeon Flake while I lead pitch two. I ran it out a bit much, and just as I pulled into the cave belay, my hands slipped off and I kicked myself straight back into space. Went the whole pitch, ending up about 10 below the belay. Both of us had on two inch swami belts (the standard 'red'). Everything went quiet, and then Marks' approach shoes dropped into space. Apparently the hip belay he provided had slipped a bit and the rope burned through the shoes laces. There were plenty of people watching, as would have been the case in the mid '70s. I cleaned the pitch so as to not leave any gear. We finished up Redguard and headed immediately west for the Utah border with our tail between our legs. Mark and I went back a couple of years later to get revenge.
Dec 26, 2012
Wow - presently the poopiest classic in Eldo. Still a must-do, but being the first on it this season wasn't the best call. The bolt belay is on top of the pigeon flake, not below it (ref. a few comments prior). Lastly, the climb goes with nothing bigger than a new-style #4 Camalot with no runouts at all. Sure, if you want overhead pro at the crux a #5 might help, but at my ankles was good enough and I didn't have to carry anything big.
May 20, 2012
Yes, the last pitch is stellar and about as atmospheric as they come. However, there is just too much junk rock and bird crap on this route for it to be "classic". Combine pitches 1-3 to bypass the poor belay at Pigeon Flake. C4 #5 is the ideal size for the crux.
Sep 2, 2009
How about some exposure? Note that there is no 2-bolt anchor at the base of pigeon flake as stated in the guidebook.
Oct 24, 2007
Classic and committing route. The exposure on the last two pitches is unbelievable. As of Oct 23 2007-the route is clean of dead birds and was surprisingly poop-free, except for the "cave belay" which was filled with a mixture of bones and some mysterious matrix; this is not a real problem b/c one can build the belay far enough out that the stench is barely noticeable.
Oct 24, 2007
As far as big gear goes, 1 #3 and 1 #4 Camalot are plenty.
Oct 13, 2004
What type of rack is essential for the last pitches? How much big stuff?
Oct 13, 2004
The Diving Board is closed until August 1 2004.
Jun 5, 2004
Climbed it on 9/16/02 and the feces factor was minimal.
Sep 20, 2002
I thought it was a classic, but last time I did it (4 years ago) I didn't find any dead birds. I guess I'd consider the dead birds a temporary issue that can detract from your enjoyment of an otherwise classic climb. What makes a classic? Length, position, exposure, good rock, views? In my opinion, the Diving Board had all of them, save one spot of poor rock. BTW, that poor spot, pulling up into the dihedral after the traverse is not that well-protected - the fixed aluminum bashie with the half-broken cable was looking pretty mank. The pitch is PG-13. Overall, the rack you probably want is up to an (old style) #4 camamlot
Jan 11, 2002
A few swallows don't sound so bad. Last time I tried this route there was a decomposing pigeon oozing its innards all over the crucial chockstone in the pod. The chockstone was hidden behind a thick coat of feces and feathers and gristle. After a couple tentative tries at yarding on the more solid-looking pigeon femurs and tibias, the appeal of pulling on cams seemed irresistible. Helgi Christensen, the Icelandic hardman, followed and put me and my whining to shame by nonchalantly burying his fists into the depths of the stinking slime. Perhaps this is an everyday Icelandic experience. Truly memorable watching him dragging the ribcage out and throwing it over his shoulder so he could thrust his already gobied hands deeper into the gore. Just for a second, he almost looked perturbed. Top pitch is well protected. Bring some large cams for the pod section (at least one #4 Camalot will let you lace it up). The pitch below is pretty awkward 5.10, and not very well protected. Gaining this pitch involves some truly crappy climbing on loose 5.8 territory. Otherwise, it's wildly exposed and a true (sorta old fashioned) classic. The three stars are traditional, and have no bearing on reality.
Jan 11, 2002
This climb is also ideal for a rain storm. Just make sure that you make it to the headwall before the rain hits. The lower slabs woulnd't be fun when wet. My partner and I were climbing the last pitch when it started raining. The entire canyon got pretty soaked for atleast 20 minutes, but I had no idea it was even raining (probably because I was being dive-bombed by birds while their friends flung poo in my face from within the crack). Enjoy.
Jan 3, 2002
Just did this route yesterday evening. I do not recommend doing this route until late fall due to the swarm of swallows that are living in the crux, crack section, unless you don't mind [thrutching] through a pod while being swarmed by frantic birds. Cool, exposed climbing though. The 5.8 and 10c pitches are easily linked....
Aug 24, 2001
- Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty)
Happened upon this random route for the first time yesterday. Well bolted for Eldo! Tough start, slabby finish, and lots of fun in-between. Definitely worth a run after topping out on Anthill Direct or any of its neighbors.
Aug 15, 2011
John, thanks for sharing the story behind the name "Dizzy Miss Lizzy". I'm okay with keeping that original name for this fun route.
Nov 13, 2007
I found this route one day after doing the Edge, and I also remember that Christian had done something near it. Rick Dirkson and I top-roped it, and we called it Dizzy Miss Lizzy because my wife (then girlfriend) was totally petrified being up there. I tied my supertape chalkbag belt around her wrist as a form of belay to get her across the exposed parts on the way up.
May 18, 2005
- Element X
This thing looks like a total pile.
Feb 25, 2016
- Fools Learn
- Genius Loci
Thought this route was so-so, probably a worthy line, but kinda of lame have a prominent sport route between two of the coolest trad routes in Eldo! Seems contrived (you could climb into P1 of the Edge in multiple spots) and has some flaky rock. Kind of similar to Iron Pony - a slightly forced, difficult bolted arete just left of a classic crack climb.
Sep 22, 2010
Aside from the upper part that was removed, and I agree that it should have been. I think this is one sweet climb! When it was put up, it was both a visionary climb and a bit of a travesty. It has amazing climbing up the arete and the position is just incredible! This "untraditional version" up the Edge attracted a lot of nay sayers because of the contrived & intrusive nature of the upper half which continued up the left side of the arete, with bolts for pro. With that part removed, the bolts are not visible for a climber on the edge. I don't find it obtrusive to either the climbing on the first pitch of the Edge or Jules Verne. This is a great way to add harder climbing up the Edge and like the rest of the climbing on the Naked Edge the climbing here is better than good it's magnificant. Run this thru to the top of the second pitch of the Edge proper in one pitch. I've done a lot of pitches in Eldo and in my opinion this ranks as one of the coolest there is.
Mar 21, 2008
I was on the FHRC and at that meeting to vote on the bolt removal. In the previous month I had climbed Jules Verne to Lene's Dream and had pretty bummed that someone had placed some bolts that were clippable from Lene's. I felt like the soul had been stolen from Lene's. A few days later I climbed Genus Loci and the Edge because I knew I was going to have to vote on the removal proposal and wanted fresh beta. Genus Loci was really good climbing but for 2 reasons I voted for removal anyway: 1) the upper part of GL covered and bolted terrain that already had a route on it; Lene's Dream, and 2) the nature and type of climbing on GL split dramatically at the top of P1 of the Edge. The lower half of GL is steep, edgy and dramatic. Although it shares the arete edge with the NE they offer distinctly different climbing and are visually isolated from each other. At the break, however, things got all mixed up. The easiest and most natural way for me to climb this part of GL was to palm my way up the break, reaching left to clip. Now maybe Alan didn't intend for this to be the way to climb it, but that's what felt natural to me. I climbed it on lap 2 all on the left face and the climbing was better and harder but I felt I was walking on Lene's grave here. The combo of these two issues are what caused me to vote for the removal. This was the toughest vote I made in 6 years on the FHRC. Most votes were easy but this one caused a lot of angst. Considering the removal or modification of someone else's creation was unfamiliar ground for me and was terrain on which I felt I had little business treading. However, because the upper part of the route literally crossed and violated the line of Lene's Dream, I felt that removal was justified.
Sep 5, 2002
I too wish the route had never been bolted and am glad that the upper bolts were removed. Prior to the bolts' removal, I remember hearing a lot of criticism from Lene's Dream climbers as to the proximity of the now removed bolts as well. If the remaining part of the route has good climbing and isn't too offensive to the Naked Edge/Jule's Verne crew, why doesn't the first ascentionist apply to have a lower off anchor just left of the arete, about the same height of the Naked Edge pitch 1 anchor, but a little lower(so long as it isn't anywhere near Jule's Verne)? This would eliminate having to climb right around the sharp edge to the anchors on the Edge and maybe give some closure to the route, which does just sort of go nowhere. A compromise would hopefully keep Nelson from having to "work to change the system" in an effort to rebolt the upper half of the route. p.s. This is just a suggested compromise. You wouldn't catch me placing bolts between the two proudest routes on the planet!
Aug 26, 2002
I wish this route had never been bolted. The moves are pretty fun, but having a line of bolts within a single arm's reach of one of the best lines in the country is a bummer. This route should have remained a top rope.
Apr 10, 2002
I've done the edge a number of times, and enjoyed the route (genius loci) as something different from the original edge start. I thought it was fun arete and face climbing in a spectacular postion. As to the controversy, I probably wasn't even rock climbing yet when it occured.
Nov 18, 2001
It seems like the FHRC that made the decision to remove those bolts was more interested in preserving the character of Eldo than it was in making the climbing easier. Granted that Genius Loci is a good line, but it's not a good route. The bolts are offensive to many people who do Jules Verne too. It's not the first time Nelson's bolts have been removed-how about Joshua Tree? What about Yosemite? Maybe It's a big conspiracy!! It wouldn't take a "genius" to see that this route is just squeezed in, but that point appears to be lost on Nelson. I prefer to remain anonymous when dealing with people of his ilk.
Sep 7, 2001
- Ghoul's Turn
- Green Willow Wall
What a spectacular route! Especially linking into Lene's Dream! An exciting voyage. The bolts on this need to get replaced eventually. They are fairly old and look to be holding some rust. Maybe there is nothing to worry about, but those two bolts are what are keeping you off the deck.... Either way, I thought this thing was harder than The Wisdom! So good!
Apr 8, 2016
This can be linked with Lene's Dream for one of the best pitches in Eldo!
Oct 3, 2012
Brillant and adventurous slab climbing. Really cool scoop features on the upper headwall.
Oct 3, 2012
Wow, this pitch is killer! It has everything that makes climbing in Eldo fantastic: great position, (mostly) good rock, tricky and devious movement, and some exciting runouts. You can tell from the lichen that it doesn't get done too often, but that's part of what makes it exciting. It's an adventerous pitch, so I won't offer too much beta, but I will say I thought that the only really dangerous part of the route was getting to the first bolt. It's mostly easy, up to about 2' below the bolt, but you definitely have to pull a move before you can clip it. I had passed up some possible RP placements below it (thinking it looked easy all the way to the bolt), though, maybe if you took your time you could find something decent to keep you off the deck here. After that, there's the potential for some big falls, but I can speak from experience when I say that they're pretty clean. -Scott
Apr 8, 2009
Put it away today. What a beautiful climb!
Nov 19, 2006
This is one killer pitch on great rock. This is a tough one to onsight since there was absolutely no chalk up there. Hidden edges continued to emerge as I climbed higher. However, there is some junk rock just after pulling the roof getting to the first bolt. Once you clip the first bolt, it's on like Donkey Kong until you reach the brown band above. Get ready for some "pucker" action above the 2nd bolt! Classic climb on a beautiful wall.
Nov 11, 2006
- Hayden's Line
Nice! That's some out there stuff, Josh. Thanks.
Nov 11, 2017
- Inset, The
- Jules Verne
Thought the runout on this was pretty exciting. The fall is decent size and not particularly clean. The climbing is balancy, definitely a pitch you want to be ready for. The rotten band felt like 5.8+ X, gear is pretty sparse there. The money pitch is one of the best pitches in Eldo just purely in terms of the quality of climbing. Excellent, tricky, dihedral climbing to an utterly amazing section of face climbing made even more classic by history, mystique, and the river rushing below you.
May 25, 2017
If you picked up the green Alien from the base of T2/Jules Verne today, please contact me. I dropped it while cruxing on Jules Verne P4 and would be happy to reward you for your efforts upon its return.
Nov 13, 2016
There was not that much bird poo; however, there are some polished feet.
Oct 19, 2016
DO THIS ROUTE!
Nov 6, 2015
I noticed on Saturday March 2nd that the knifeblade has now been replaced with a new one in a new location. Hopefully it is better than the old one (it must be). Was this pin and the one off T2 and the other pins that have recently been removed off routes in Eldo part of a sanctioned ACE activity? Peace, Steve S
Mar 5, 2013
Don't let the film Scary Faces scare you away from this route. Like others have said, everything is there and the crux is overcome your own imagination and fear of how runout and hard the climbing may be. The gear at the roof is absolutely bomber and there is definitely good gear at the broken band. I'd say the climbing eases the further away you go from the roof if you keep a cool mind. If you get through the first pitch without a hitch, then the 3rd pitch is definitely not going to stop you. 2 BD#2's might be needed for the 2nd pitch.
Apr 23, 2007
As for the legendary pitch, just take a deep breath and believe....
Jun 25, 2006
The only reason I had decided to leave Montana to climb Jules Verne was after watching Peter Mortimer's film Scary Faces. Once I was up there I have to admit I was a bit scared, but all you can do is take a few deep breaths and make the moves. The holds are there and the climbings great! However, I didn't find any "bomber gear" after the runout. I just kept climbing up to the anchors and ran it out some more. The broken band seemed a little chossy anyway, but the climbing is pretty easy after that point.
Feb 8, 2004
I just did this route the other day. I have really wanted to do it for some time now and after doing other significantly more dangerous climbs (kinda ironic) finally thought I was ready. The first pitch is definately the pumpy crux. The third or fourth(depending on how you break up the pitches), was not bad at all. I was nervous going into it, but soon realized that the pitch was actually quite tame. The runout is big, but not huge and the gear at the lip is absolutely bomb proof. The climbing was really fantastic and right at the rotten band you grab a monster thank God bucket and you get good gear. HOWEVER!!, finish on Lene's Dream, climbing on the rotten band only detracts from the exceptional quality of the rest of the route. AJ
Dec 21, 2003
Nate - As for gear, the first pitch is spelled out pretty clearly & the typical Eldo rack is very adequate with a few extra slings for the zig-zag nature of the line. 2nd is easy - use anything. The money pitch, bring lots of small stuff for the first half - - bigger RPs, smaller wires, a set of Loweballs would be ideal here. It's a fingertip crack in a corner with lichen, difficult to see in there & assess the placement, so you'll want to place pro generously since a fall could land your arse on a pillar - not good. The roof crack is a large finger bottleneck, very forgiving, and remember a few 'draws for the 2 new bolts on the face. Just kidding. The top of the face is a great medium nut, and the traverse doesn't matter, it's rotten anyway. The 7 or 8 hex was key there. Go Lene's Dream if you've got the juice. Good luck!
Oct 27, 2003
Quite spectacular in places, and extremely licheny and fouled by pigeon crap in others. The 10d roof pitch at the top does not warrant an 'S' rating (maybe 5.7/5.8 S). For pitch 4, the crux is in overcoming the legend and mystique surrounding the runout section. I could make a comment on how difficult I thought the climbing was, or where I thought the hardest move was.... but I won't... you should go up there and check it out for yourself. In any case, I did not very much enjoy the long traverse on the rotten band that followed... Lene's Dream looks far more appealing. So, is anyone willing to give the scoop on Lene's Dream? The guide claims that, "the pro improves once Jules Verne is departed", but the topo gives that section a 'VS' rating. Any thoughts?
Jun 12, 2003
I have not done this route, but it interests me as well. I would highly recommend the film by Peter Mortimer 'Scary Faces' for anyone interested in Jules Verne - well, anyone interested in Boulder climbing for that matter. It is really a great look at the history of this route, as well as some of the great names in Eldo climbing. Its funny, entertaining, and it gives a good idea of what the route is all about. Great stuff! Good luck when you get on it! Post back, and let us know how it went!
Apr 15, 2003
I am extremely excited to do this climb and the word "bold" is what is attracting me to it. Could someone elaborate a little more on gear? Is this a very popular climb or do people usually get scared by even looking at it?
Apr 14, 2003
You were probably on route for that last pitch. It doesn't get done much.
Dec 3, 2002
On the first pitch, I highly recommend traversing the lip instead of heading up. As long as you don't fall while clipping the pin, you won't deck, and the moves are SO much more classic. On the fourth pitch, the gear below the crux runout is bomber, and the moves are all on positive edges. Definitely a mental crux. If you just fire through, it's not bad at all. Beautiful edges, a fun sequence. Also, what's with the last pitch? We were going to go into the Edge, but decided to finish the full JV line instead. The whole last pitch was covered in crusty lichen, no chalk, and appeared as if it were never travelled. I felt off-route the whole way, doing some .10 moves on weird gear. It was fun, but were we off-route? Maybe it just doesn't get done much or something. If anybody has better beta for the last pitch, I'd love to hear it. Great route. Like most Eldo routes, it wasn't as scary as it's reputation, but definitely as fun as it's reputation.
Dec 3, 2002
The last pitch is harder than .10a, more like 5.10+ and kind of in-your-face.
Oct 23, 2002
Yeah, like I didn't sandbag this one enough, now ya'll want to downgrade it! Well OK, the moves on the upper pitch didn't feel any harder than easy - 11, and the first pitch I agree would be mid-11 if you stay on the lip, traverse up & left and skip the first pin, as I understand the first ascencionists did. An easier option exists to hit that first pin & move up, then left, which I'd put as an easy 11 one-move-wonder. Note that it can be done by clipping the first pin, a la T2, then traversing the lip as Steve mentioned, and any fall should stop just shy of the ground, with the swing involved. This way, you're reasonably protected while you do the original moves. The rest is probably sustained mid-10 climbing. I went with Rossiter's 11 b/c rating, as that's the guidebook I own. Hope that helps.
Oct 7, 2002
The .11 b/c rating is due to the first pitch which is also rather serious when you traverse at the lip of the initial 'roof', though there is a safer variation if you traverse higher. Rope stretch makes this exciting for the second as well.This is a good pitch with some interesting sequences and once you get above the lip, and past the dubious pin, the protection is good.. As for the 4th pitch...I suspect that most falls occur because there is a place to stop and momentum is hard to regain. Good luck!
Sep 25, 2002
i was under the impression that this route is 5.11a. what's up with the 11b/c rating? is this a reflection of the lene's dream finish or do people think the original rating is a sandbag? thanks
Sep 24, 2002
...and hurt themselves.
Jul 29, 2002
Keep in mind, however, that some well-known climbers have taken 30-40 foot falls here.
Jul 29, 2002
Seems I have this fear with every new Eldo route that I'll cruise up, place some gear, only to find that 30 feet later I'm on a totally blank face with no upward prospects and staring down the barrel of a really ugly fall. Then I finish the route, and am surprised to find it was _all there,_ my fear completely unfounded. Jules Verne is no different. The runout is the fearsome part, but keep in mind that it isn't that tough if you've made it this far, and there's good gear in the rotten band above. The hardest part was hanging on at the roof trying to figure out where the really scary & dangerous part was - - 'cos it had to be worse than this! It isn't, and I quickly discovered it was _all there._
Jul 27, 2002
- Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation
- King Tut
This corner needs a good cleaning of "loose shit" that just doesn't need to be there. 20 mins of hammer tapping on loose plates and layered stacks and this could be a 4-star pitch....
Apr 1, 2014
Note: The crux moves will mostly feel like 5.10, which shouldn't be a big surprise, since it is a 5.9+ from the '70s.
May 9, 2011
- Le Void
It's possible to link the entire route into one pitch, and the drag's not bad. Of course, I wouldn't recommend the upper roof (p3), see my added comments above. We left a fixed nut anchor above the p3 roof, and you can lower to the ground from there with a 60m rope. -Scott
Mar 4, 2010
I guess I should clarify, I heard linking the 11+ flake into the large roof (second 11+ crux) was the way to go. Is that what you mean too? I didn't think you could lower to the ground from above the roof. Guess I'll just have to sack-up and go find out.
Mar 4, 2010
Hey Roy, I followed Josh up the first 2 pitches this afternoon, which he'd linked as you describe. Although it does require a fair bit of gear, there are several good stances to rest and the .11d crux does have good gear. Red C3s, blue Aliens, purple TCUs, or all the above. It seemed natural to do this as one pitch and you can lower back to the ground with a 60m. The no-hands-rest before the crux flake means that you can totally de-pump.
Mar 4, 2010
My partner and I backed off after he attempted the second pitch. We were both afraid he'd factor 2 onto the anchor if he blew it. So, in my research and plans to redeem myself, I've heard that it is safer to set the belay below the first crux and link both cruxes, OR the Josh Wharton superhero beta is do it all in one long rope stretcher (which he said might be the best 12a pitch in the canyon this way). Any thoughts Rob or Alex as to this approach? I suppose carrying the double or triple set (I'm not ashamed) of micros cams is the downside. I get all hot and bothered thinking about it.
Mar 2, 2010
...ah yes, the pitch through the roof. This is definitely the true technical and psychological crux of the entire route. From the funky belay above the steep 11d flake...Climb up and begin angling left under the roof. On this section you will encounter some scary choss! This is an experience in hollow flakes, non-bomber gear behind said hollow flakes and some antique fixed pro. After the harrowing traverse and somewhat powerful, contorted moves (trying not to yard on the really loose stuff), one arrives at the vertical fracture piercing the roof itself. Punch it out the crack with a couple strenuous jams and awkward holds and pull the lip.... Yikes, clear the deck! Haha...must not be that bad, I've done it 3 times in 20 years.
Mar 2, 2010
Pitch 2 is very cool and unfortunately too short. The second pitch is very intimidating, because the gear is blind where you need it most. It was hard to "sack up" and go for it not knowing how good the gear was. Solid 11+.
May 16, 2009
- Lene's Dream
Took one of the longest whippers of my climbing career on this pitch in mid-'90s. Belayed by a French sport climber whose English was not the best, I did not do a very good job impressing on him how runout it was going to be while standing at the belay. I think he got a much better impression after I lobbed off.
4 days ago
What a fun way to finish JV! I also took the whip from as far away from the gear as possible, and it was exciting but not bad. Ended up back down slightly below the JV rotten band. A 0.3 is bomber, Black Totem also fits great!
Dec 4, 2017
Definitely not R, though it has its moments.
Apr 8, 2016
Took the whip from as far from the gear as possible.... Wasn't bad. Bomber 0.3 C4 or green Alien in the small roof. Don't be a moron, go straight up the green and red border.
Sep 17, 2012
A must do for the finish on Jules Verne. The runout ain't that bad.
Mar 24, 2011
If you are going to do Jules Verne this is definitely a better way to finish than traversing left and following the regular ho hum finish.
Jul 6, 2004
Borderline 'VS' for the Jules Verne face... mild, fuzzy-'S' for Lene's Dream.
Nov 20, 2003
- Love Minus Zero
The black hand crack mentioned is on T2 and it is gained by going right not left off the ledge. I think the shallow corner is a great feature of the route and should not be missed however.
Jan 28, 2015
- Naked Edge, The
No fixed gear at present besides the normal: P2: pin before you turn the arete. P3: there's like 4? pins. P4: No fixed cam anymore, pin, pin, pin. P5: pin, no present fixed gear before boulder problem, chockstone. **As of 11/30/17
Feb 8, 2017
Fixed Friend removed. P3 tat anchor replaced. P4 anchor replaced. Improved P3 anchor - Removed a huge pile of wedged tat (had to use a funkness device to get each piece out of the crack.) Replaced it with a climbing rope inside a 1" tubular webbing sheath tied in two loops. The first loop has its own forged ring and is tied with a water knot. The tails of that loop go around again with another forged ring and end in a double fisherman's knot. The webbing should protect from UV for a long while and keep more tat from appearing. Also - the third pin (at the top of the bomb bay) flexes very easily when pushed on by hand. Didn't hit it with a hammer. Tapped on the crux one, and it seems well set.
Sep 18, 2017
The best piece to back up the second pin in the bombay chimney is a blue/yellow offset Mastercam. You can back up the first pin with a purple Mastercam.
Nov 12, 2015
What's the story on the orange rope up there blowing in the wind on the top of the chimney pitch? I saw one end is "exploded"m and I cleaned a bail sling off of a piton below tonight just before dusk. Sorry I didn't have time to get the rope down. Everyone OK?
Nov 25, 2017
After delaying getting on this route for months due to fear, I feel like it doesn't warrant anything more than a PG-13 at most. Don't neglect to look down as you move up the handcrack on P5! Also, I was the party directly behind MikeZ this last Saturday, props to how quickly you guys moved given that you lead every pitch. I guess you counterbalanced that by taking the scenic way down the East Slabs.
Nov 14, 2016
5 things: 1. Pitches 4 and 5 really are hard and scary but super fun! 2. Does the route deserve an R? No, maybe PG-13, but a lot of the cruxes are protected, like an RP placement on pitch 2 right above the 1" cam placement around the corner, or a key 0.3" cam placement on pPitch 4 next to the pin (to back it up) right before the bombay chimney. 3. Doubles in 1-3" is super nice on pitch 5. 4. East Slabs descent is difficult without beta, read up about it in the guidebook, because it is not up here. We had to wing it - involving a lot of downclimbing the 5.2 slab. 5. Bring the psych, 'cause this route is fun! 6. Tons of traffic on a Fall Saturday, fortunately 7:30am was good enough for first in line - saw at least 5 groups below us, and because the sun hits this route early, don't let cold temps dissuade you!
Nov 12, 2016
Does anyone know the descent beta? Also, does this thing have a waiting line on a typical Fall Saturday?
Nov 11, 2016
Riki, found one of your shoes. Not sure why only one, but maybe the other will turn up. I'll try pm you.
Oct 11, 2016
To the guys who left their DMM offset nut on the fist pitch last Saturday: I can arrange for you to pick it up at an address near Baseline and 28th. MP me soon. Otherwise it will go to good use.
Sep 30, 2016
P3 choss seemed a bit looser that usual this morning....
Jul 6, 2016
Easy to avoid it, but about halfway through the 5.8 pitch, there is a very loose, triangular block.
May 2, 2016
This route is harder than Milkbone.
Apr 29, 2016
Did a quick count of Mtn Proj ticks. Not a surprise to see Stefan leading the count 1 Stefan Griebel 73 2 Guy H. 12 3 Nax Seigal 10 4 Chris Archer 6 5 Wade M 6 6 Devan Johnson 5 7 Mark Hammond 4 8 Phil Lauffen 4 9 Brent Butler 3 10 Charles Vernon 3
Apr 24, 2016
"Currently the easy sections of the Edge are heavily ticked. Every edge and foothold have large ticks in the 5.8-9 sections." Tell me it ain't so! That would be incredibly bad form.
Sep 21, 2015
I placed all 4 of smallest X4 offsets in multiple cracks on the route, including one in that red-yellow Alien slot. It looked really solid. With the offsets, it felt G-PG.
Sep 21, 2015
Jason and I did 26m33s bridge-to-bridge on 8/16/2014. Scott and Brad just lowered that to 26m16s this evening. Wow, speed climbing this thing is so much fun! Go do it!! Edit to add the bridge-to-bridge FKT progression history.... 1980s, Bob Horan & Skip Guerin (barefoot!!?!) 45 min, ascent only. 1990s, Michael Gilbert & Rob Slater, 1h 30m CTC. 2006-09-06, Bob Rotert & Dave Vaughn, 1h 22m CTC. 2010-12-??, Scott Bennett & Blake Harrington, 1h 13m (fastest non-simul climbing). 2012-05-??, Stefan Griebel & Jason Wells, 49m 44s (simul-climbing now). 2013-01-??, Scott Bennett & Brad Gobright, 44m 00s. 2014-04-09, Stefan Griebel & Jason Wells, 40m 36s. 2014-04-22, Stefan & Jason, 35m 01s. 2014-06-09, Scott & Brad, 29m 53s. 2014-08-15, Stefan & Jason, 26m 33s. 2014-09-24, Scott & Brad, 26m 16s. 2014-10-08, Scott & Brad, 24m 57s. 2015-09-19, Stefan & Jason, 24m 29s (5m 34s to base of P1, 18m 31s both on summit). Someone needs to go sub-24! Projecting The Edge for time is perhaps the most fun I've ever had rock climbing.
Sep 24, 2014
29:53 on 6.9.14.
Jun 10, 2014
Had to bail tonight, too bad as it was looking like we were going to get it done. I guess that's what happens when you start climbing at 6:30!
May 3, 2014
I agree that combining P1/P2, and P4/P5 is the way to go. The Edge as 3 pitches is perfect, and I've never had rope drag doing it this way. Provided, of course, that you use a long sling on whatever you place in the nombay chimney. Currently (April 2014), there is a fixed green C3 Camalot on P1, a rigid Friend in the dihedral on P4, and a yellow Metolius after the boulder problem on P5.
Apr 23, 2014
Hey Bruce, I usually link these pitches with no rope drag issues with a 60m. I just don't remember how much slack I have.... I prefer having a soft catch on that fixed wire on the start of P5 to getting jerked around/landing on my belayer's head.
Jul 31, 2013
Why would you want to link these pitches? 1&2 would probably give you horrendous rope drag and 4&5 are great pitches in themselves. The hardest moves of pitch 5 are right off the belay. Nice to have somebody there as there is really no pro.
Jul 31, 2013
You can link 1&2 and 4&5 with a 50m rope.
Jul 31, 2013
Bolt and pin Inventory on the Edge: P1: None; 2 bolt anchor. P2: 2 bolts & 1 pin; 2 bolt anchor & pin. P3: 4 or 5 pins; fixed slings for anchor. P4: 4 pins; 3 bolt anchor. P5: 1 pin.
Feb 14, 2013
WOW! Scott & Brad... awesome! GREAT work! Super inspired! Thanks for that! sincerely, scott e. tarrant
Jan 28, 2013
New speed record at 44minuts set by Scott Bennett and Brad Gobright. I'm told via trail signs that the Redgarden Wall isn't closing for falcons this year!
Jan 28, 2013
Yeah, but did they do the sit start?
May 19, 2012
Much respect to Jason Wells and Stefan Griebel for shattering the speed record, posting up 49m 44s bridge-to-bridge!!!
May 18, 2012
Finally did this today. There is still a c3 and a nut on pitch 1. The 2nd pitch is really fun and the slab part is mildly spicy. The bombay chimney is not as bad as people make it out to be. A yellow TCU/ master cam can be used below the pin and possible more stuff (a blue/yellow offset master cam might be good?). It is run out by the end of it, but once you are established in the Chimney, you won't fall out unless you want to (ie you give up). The last 11 pitch has a good series of hard moved below the hand crack. Great climb, pitch 1 was the best finger crack ive one in a while. A must do for sure.
Jul 17, 2011
For beta on the approach, Rob showed me a way that is a little easier than the 5.5 handcrack fs off the ramp. Keeping going along the ramp past the handcrack about 50 feet (20 feet past Touch 'n Go) to a large flake. Climb up this and exit to the right up juggy ledges. It is quite a bit easier than the cracks, and there is a bit of a ledge at the base that you may land on if you blow the moves:) Or just be smart and rope up one of the many excellent pitches leading to the lower ramp. Currently there is a fixed nut and a green C3 in the first pitch, as well as two junky cams in the initial dihedral on the 4th pitch.
Jul 8, 2011
Bob Rotert said: "Dave Vaughan & I were able to shorten the Gilbert & Slater 1:38 speed record on the edge, stated in Steve Levin's earlier post. On 9/06/06 our time was 1:22 parking lot to parking lot done traditional style, no French free, no simulclimbing, and no skate boarding down the East Slabs" Huge props to the Bob and Dave! I've been itching to give this a try for a while now, and finally got a psyched partner and good temps today. Blake Herrington and I went bridge to bridge in 1:13 (the bridge is 50yds from the parking lot, but we thought it was a more consistent starting point). Same style as Bob and Dave: all free, soloed up the ramp to the base, and then pitched it out in 3 pitches. I think there's still a ton of room for improvement, though, as we went a bit off-route on the ramp approach, battled 50mph winds on the route, and wandered down the East Slabs. I think this is a pretty safe challenge, and I know there's tons of strong-people in town. I wonder if anyone could do it sub-hour....
Dec 3, 2010
I left an alpine runner with orange carabiners at the base of the chimney pitch on Saturday (July 25th. I you could grab it, it'd be greatly appreciated. I live right across the street from Neptune's.
Jul 25, 2010
Wow!, the Naked Edge blind, We're not worthy!!!
Dec 14, 2009
Climbing The Edge with Erik Weihenmayer and Charley Mace was definitely one of the greatest climbing experiences I have ever had. It was so exciting to see him climb it. We didn't know exactly how it was going to go. It went really well. Check out the video. Don't use Erik's beta on pitch 4 unless it feels too easy the other way! youtube.com/watch?v=dF14cqT… UPDATE 1/5/2011: Erik's ascent was named by Chris Weidner as one of the "Top climbing achievements of the decade" in the Front Range in the Daily Camera. www.dailycamera.com/ci_17009978
Dec 13, 2009
Congratulations to Erik Weihenmayer, Brady Robinson, Charlie Mace, and Cedar Wright on the first blind ascent of the Naked Edge. 5 November 2009. Outstanding and super inspirational effort!
Nov 9, 2009
I still think this is hands down the best route in Eldo. It's always good every time I get on it. Me and Steven took a jaunt up it Friday afternoon. As of 9-18-09, there are no fixed pieces on P1. However, on P4 there are two fixed Friends right on top of each other at the start. One is a rigid the other tech. You can still get a good #1 Camalot above them and also have room for your hand. I may go up and try to get them out soon. Anyone care to join me?
Sep 20, 2009
Protecting the bomb bay is not as hard as it is described. My suggestion would be to back up the pin before entering the chimney mere centimeters below the pin with a stopper or a yellow Alien/TCU (or both, which I did) I reached out to the slot out left, but it was both not a good piece, and DEFINITELY in the way (as mentioned above). Also, it doens't make the fall shorter, so the better packups would be near the pin. As far as the exit moves at the roof, a red Alien is decent, but more importantly there is a great small stopper placement next to it, and even a small stopper placement near the hand hold as you begin to exit. They are all good. In fact, there is currently a fixed RP at the exit move (that I placed and could not retrieve) which should help out the next few parties at least. Oh, and there is currently a fixed #2 Friend at the base of the 4th pitch. The stem cable is starting to wear, it would be good to remove it from such a stellar pitch.
Nov 5, 2007
The fixed cams on pitch one and two have been removed and someone put a pin (Lost Arrow) in the lower part of the fourth pitch.
Sep 8, 2007
There's a baby pigeon that appears to have just hatched this morning (Tuesday, August 21) to the right of the belay at the bottom of pitch 4 of the Edge. Watch where you stack your ropes. It's cute. Little yellow thing with a bobbling head.
Aug 21, 2007
Absolutely one of the top routes in Eldo. For the fun of it & to see what a couple of old guys might be able to do... Dave Vaughan & I were able to shorten the Gilbert & Slater 1:38 speed record on the edge, stated in Steve Levin's earlier post. On 9/06/06 our time was 1:22 parking lot to parking lot done traditional style, no french free, no simul climbing and no skate boarding down the East Slabs. As a follow up and for some additional fun to make things even more interesting we followed that ascent with a night time ascent a couple of days later by headlamp. Great practice for those climbs you don't quite finish by sunset. I was afraid the park ranger might come & order us down. I could just see it now. Spot light shining up on us. Us looking down like deer caught in the headlights. "Hey you clowns on the edge! Cease your climbing activities & come down right now!! The park is closed to climbing at night!!" "We can't officer you've blinded us with that spot light!!" \;o) Fortunately we made it to the top without any "hazardous" official interference.
Aug 15, 2007
Took multiple whippers directly onto the pin below the chimney on July 28. I weigh 200lb + gear and the pin held. I had it backed up with a purple TCU. Thinking offset Alien in the slot out left for the next round....
Aug 6, 2007
Regarding the "red Alien/yellow Alien on p.4" discussion... I placed a gray Camalot (same size as yellow?), and it held when I fell off trying to hump my way up into the bombay. The Camalots are, of course, a bit wider axially than Aliens, and this may have helped (a bit more surface area on cam lobes). Then again, maybe it was just dumb luck. Obviously, best to put a 24'" runner on whatever one places here....
Oct 18, 2005
Just curious about rappelling off the Edge, I recall rapping the route a few years back, but yesterday could not find the anchors on top so took the East Slab descent. Any info on where to rappel from? Thanks.
Oct 17, 2005
This is a note going out to the party climbing ahead of us on The Edge today (Sun 10/16/05)... We have the cam that you forgot to clean. Send me an email: (reachjimmy at gmail). Tell me where you left it and what kind of piece it was so I make sure I'm getting it back to the right person. I'll meet you at The Southern Sun some time and you can buy me a beer! ALSO...If you were THE GUY IN THE ROAD WITH THE TRIPOD while we were climbing the 4th & 5th pitch: Get in touch if you have any pics of us...that'd be sweet! AWESOME CLIMB!!!
Oct 16, 2005
FFA 30 years ago yesterday and he's still crankin'!! Way to go Jim!
Oct 4, 2004
Thanks for the suggestions, I will look up those routes and try to get to them.
Aug 14, 2004
Telvis, I agree with the previous 2 ac's...those are all good routes to do in order to get your head into it. As well, they are very good routes just to do on their own. Take you time and work your way up to it. This is [definitely] better on lead as well...every pitch. I would veture to say that it is best climb I've ever done. I've done it bottom to top 7 times and the first two pitches probably 30 -40 times as an after work workout and it was always GREAT. You will have to do moves above your gear on this climb. You only suck if you don't [pursue] you interest...you don't suck.
Aug 13, 2004
Tevis- I would suggest some more Eldo prep climbs before getting on the Edge. King's X is a good trainer. I would also get on Grand Course, Rincon, and any of several 5.11 routes on the West Ridge (better to push it close to the ground at first). I would also recommend following some Eldo multi-pitch 5.10/low-end 5.11 routes, if you haven't already, say Super Slab, Psycho Pigeon, or what has been dubbed as "Le Verne" on this site. The Edge is not going anywhere, so get all these under your belt and by October when it cools off- go for it. Some other tips: Be well-versed in French-free technique, if you need to get through a section you can't do free. You would also need to know how to ascend the rope- should you fall on the 4th pitch you may swing out into space and not be able to get back into the rock. You can bail with one rope after the first pitch, or with 2 ropes after the 2nd, if you're not feeling the joy. The 4th and 5th pitches are the crux, though, and require a bit more effort both physically and psychologically. Good luck, and find a strong partner who can coach you through.
Aug 13, 2004
Dude, you don't suck; you're just not ready for it. I think the key is to keep pushing yourself on gear routes close to the grade, and you'll send it onsight. It might take a year or two to get there, but if you are working for it, it'll come eventually. Think King's X, Le Toit, [Disappearing] Act, Center Route, Outer Space and Country Club Crack but don't get discouraged if you get schooled on classics like NW Corner, Vertigo or Athletes Feet as they are pretty desperate. Sure, you could get gunned up this thing by some yokul hardguy, but you'll be more psyched to lead it onsight.
Aug 13, 2004
I am Jealous. I can't lead 11a trad. At least not safely or with confidence. I have attempted grandmothers challenge twice, sat after the pod twice, but cruised to the top after. I have onsighted most of the 10a pitches I have led in eldo though. My favorite was Yellow Spur. I got Grandmother's on TR when I wasn't placing gear or hauling two ropes(I'm trying for the 200ft pitch). I generally climb 11a sport in Boulder Canyon, and onsighted or got 2nd try a few 11a's at Animal World. I have been trad climbing off and on for 5 or 6 years, and the few times I've fallen on my gear it has held. So...honestly now, do I have a chance at following this route if I actually find someone who will haul my ass up it. Don't worry about hurting my feelings, around here I pretty much suck. I'd love to get to climb this route, I think I could probably do all the moves, but I'm worried that bailing would suck if I couldn't. Poor Mediocre Climber. (none of my partners leads any harder though) Will Belay for Rope Gun up Naked Edge.
Aug 13, 2004
Someone e-mailed me quite a while ago about the pin being missing. Must have been before the closure at end of January 2004. So it's been missing for quite a while. The reason the person e-mailed me is that they saw the pin in one of the photos I posted and were surprised to not see it on the climb.
Aug 2, 2004
This route was great!!! I was nervous about climbing this rout seeing how I just started rock climbing in January, but I was amazed how good the first pitch was! Great crack! My fingers fit like a glove in it! I would recommed this to everyone especially girls! Our hands are usually smaller :-)
Jun 10, 2004
The piece that works if placed correctly and gently set is a 1 tech friend/red alien. The yellow alien generally rips. Dougald fell onto the tech friend not the alien.
Jan 27, 2004
The Alien may be pulling because of rightward pull from the rope through the pin on the right. When I followed Josh Janes on this almost exactly a year ago, he told me that on an earlier attempt he ripped the yellow Alien. So, in September, when I did this with my brother Paul, we planned on double rope for that pitch (single rope folded in half--see photo). I outwaited Paul on the ledge, and he took the lead for that pitch. He took 3 or 4 good wingers out of the chimney, and the Alien held, but the weight was distributed between the two ropes, one to the Alien, and one to the pin.
Jan 26, 2004
Hey Doug Mc-D. Understood Robin Hood. I equalized with maybe a green alien immediately below the pin. To each his own. I [definitely] understand the slow down desire. That fall was no fun. Also, I see in some of the pics there is a pin in the lower section of this pitch (the dihedral); most likley a knifeblade. It was gone on saturday. Do you (or anyone) know where this went and if anyone plans on replacing it? I'm sure this has been discussed ad nauseum somewhere on the site...but I haven't found it...
Jan 26, 2004
The Alien's worth is not so much in shortening the fall as it is in backing up that pin. Sooner or later the pin in that flake is going to blow when someone plunges out of the chimney, and that fall will be ugly! I'll take my chances with the Alien (yellow or red, whatever), with yhe hope that it at least slows me down a bit before I weight that pin. For what it's worth, it held me (160 pounds), the one time I fell on it.
Jan 25, 2004
More for the Alien debate: I was up yesterday (last good weather before the closure)my first time, and was spanked by the chimney pitch. I tried the yellow alien in the slot. I fell. So did the Yellow Alien. Luckily I had a backup piece under the pin, however, I think; ahemm...I KNOW the pin is good...at leats for my 150 lbs. I popped out of there 3 times; the final one, I was reaching up into the roof. I was a bit perturbed, mentally exhausted and jammed my finger on my way down (boo-hoo). My opinion is that the alien placement, whether red OR yellow doesn't help at all. The sling length you need to make the rope drag manageable doesn't make the fall ANY shorter, and seems only to get in the way, FWIW. I expected this pitch to be a breeze for me, as I usualy excell at awkward, scrunchy wider pitches... Thanks to Cristo and partner for dragging our rope up, as we munched on humble pie. I have great pics of these guys on lead if anyone knows who they are (frequenters of "The Spot" in boulder?)
Jan 25, 2004
To be fair, I said, "The yellow Alien, I believe." Yellow, red, whatever. Go up there with both of them and you'll be much happier. I know I fell on one of them, and it held. I just better replace my busted red Alien before I go back up there, in case I was wrong about the size....
Sep 27, 2003
Dougald MacDonald says above that a Yellow Alien in the obvious slot in the left wall of the chimney protects the chimney. Josh Janes told me the same thing, but said the Alien pulls. My brother Paul led this pitch and placed a red Alien at the top of the slot (leaving room for your hand below). We used double ropes (see photo) to avoid pulling out on the Alien. Paul fell 4 or 5 times and the Alien held, with the force split between the Alien and the fixed pin. Following, desperately and whimpering (again), the Alien looked good to me.
Sep 27, 2003
Got a question... if, on the 4th pitch, one goes right along the flake instead of heading into the bombay chimney, what is that rated (I THINK it is the original aid line). It has been a while since I have done it but recall it was pretty tenious. Great climb and I've got to get back on it soon!!!
Aug 11, 2003
Putting your back against the left facing side of the chimney on pitch 4 and walking your feet up makes getting up to the roof seem less dicey. I followed this pitch, but I remember my partner struggled for a while on this until he did that. I just followed his lead and it seemed, well, almost easy - certainly less strenuous. It must have helped somewhat because we started the climb on T2 because people were on Touch and Go and I was already wiped out by the time we got to P4, but ended up thinking that was one of the easier pitches, although the move under the roof to the belay was troublesome for me. Just an alternative that might save you some energy for the continued hard climbing above.
Aug 8, 2003
AC - It's a pretty old TR (1994 or something like that) and I should have put a date on it. I don't think I started seeing Naked Edge raptor closures until sometime around 1999 - 2000?
Feb 7, 2003
AC, I'd prefer to mail you this, but you didn't use a name, so I have to post it. I don't know what year Greg did the NE, but the closure there has been a recent phenomenon. When I first moved here it was the Yellow Spur area that always closed- the birds moved down in maybe 1997 or 1998 (?) Since then it's been the Edge and Diving Board area closing. As George said, they kinda do follow the birds a little. I got a chuckle and a sigh at Devil's Tower in 2001. No raptors had been on the (massively popular, but closed) West face. I know why they were not there- I found them on a different climb. Rather than being on El Matador, they were over by One Way Sunset. I opted not to go through the 3rd pitch where they appeared to be perched. When I told the rangers about this, they shrugged. I don't think that they really cared to protect the birds, they just wanted to slow traffic on the cliff. I guess moving the closure to protect the birds would be a lot of bureaucracy and interfere with that agenda.
Feb 7, 2003
On this route and raptor closure: I'm sure Greg wasn't violating the ban. In Eldo the rangers are real good at scoping the closures with binocs, if the birds haven't nested they may open up certain areas well before Aug 1. This has happened for the last several years on the Yellow Spur. I wish they would do this for other raptor closures (like Boulder Open Space)!!
Feb 7, 2003
I read your trip report Greg. Good job in finishing it finally! Are you sure, however, that it was July 4th?? 3 parties on the Edge on July 4th during raptor closure? I'm shocked rangers weren't waiting at the bridge to issue everyone citations. If so, is it common for folks to openly disregard these closures?
Feb 7, 2003
Guess I have to add my Naked Edge TR since Bill put his in:) Here's the report (from around 1994). Sorry for the length of the comment, but I don't have anywhere else to put it, and it might as well be somewhere. Following is a trip report - The Naked Edge, July 4, circa 1994. Skip if bored!!! Fellow netter Jon and I had gone up to the Crags in Estes Park on Saturday, July 2nd and had a great time, so we decided to try climbing together a second time on the 4th. Jon's recently arrived in Colorado but has hit an impressive number of areas and routes here already. Asked what my druthers were on Sunday eve, I somewhat spontaneously replied "How about the Naked Edge?" I hadn't been planning this suggestion, but I had been wanting this route for a long time, so it popped out of my mouth fairly readily. The first time I did the route, it became 45 degrees and very windy, and my partner aided us up the 4th and 5th pitches. I was very cold and very scared on that ascent, although the earlier pitches had gone well. The second time my partner, although able to solo climb such routes as the Bastille Crack (5.8, 3 pitches), thought that the leads would be too hard for him, so I was trying to lead all the pitches and could not deliver on the 4th pitch. So I had this route on my mind, the 4th pitch especially, and was psyched to have a partner who could swing leads. And I wanted that 4th pitch especially. It was on my mind in a big way. After asking me if I was serious, Jon replied without hesitation that he'd love to do it. So we were on. We met at 6am to get an early start, and arrived at the base of the Redgarden wall around 7ish. No one was around, so we took our time getting ready. Then, mysteriously, just about the time I was getting ready to go, a party of three arrived planning to do the same route. One of their party was a fast climber and beat us to the start of the Naked Edge proper, which is 3 pitches off the ground. So we were in for some waiting but still looking forward immensely to the climbing ahead. While waiting at the base of the first pitch, another party arrived to go after us!! And that was it - 3 parties to do the route this July 4th. We had fun talking with the party after us on the belay ledges and everyone had a "what the hell" mood about the waiting as the weather was fine, although very hot. Neither Jon nor I had any water, but we had both taken the approach of camels to hydration. I in particular had drunk about a gallon the night before, and nearly the same that morning, with very little pissing to compensate, as if my body knew that the water should not be passed. We were both feeling intimidated, looking at the overhanging tower we were to climb looming far above us. When the time came for us to go, Jon did a brilliant, solid lead of the first pitch, a sustained (with one rest) thin finger crack right next to a sharp arete. I did not fare quite so well, but at least managed to get through the crux without falling. The feet are very important on this pitch to preserve finger strength for crucial jams and edges for a second crux at the end of the pitch. The second pitch, like the 4th and 5th pitches, is sort of a half and half hybrid. The first half is a slab next to the still sharp arete, which is a bit runout on good bolts. Then it turns the sharp corner of the arete, opening up a lot of exposure and a 20' stretch of thin crack which is climbed using slopy holds to either side. Great protection is available at the bottom of this crack, but the last section is only moderately protected. The fall line is extremely good though. You just have to get used to the idea of a safe whipper, an idea I have always had trouble with! I manage to cross the longish stretch between the first bolt on the slab to the next protection. I get stuck for a long time after rounding the corner, but after pondering for awhile finally manage to not-quite-statically reach a good incut hold about halfway up for my right hand and haul up to an ok stance. From here, a greasy sloper provides passage to the belay. The last sequence off the sloper is very exciting for me although not extremely difficult and by the time I reach the belay I am very psyched about things in general and feeling good and prepped for the 4th pitch. Jon's pitch this time is wandery and involves some routefinding. Nevertheless it's hard to get too much off-route on this climb. You always know where you are going in the end and you also know that you can't go too far away from the edge! The crux of this pitch while not too difficult is not particularly well-protected and feels very greasy to me when I do it. In fact I feel pretty sketched on follow! At the belay for the 4th pitch we have to wait for awhile to wait for the threesome who are all on the small perch for the next belay when I arrive. This proves to be a long wait due to the difficulties of the 5th pitch but again we manage to make it enjoyable, and to tell the truth I don't mind the waiting period to get psyched and rest! A couple of baby pigeons are in a crack right in the middle of the ledge. While we are there the mother comes back. She is very shy about approaching, but when we are all still she slowly and warily walks up and drops into the crack practically at my knees. She sits on her chicks for awhile, and then feeds them, which is kind of neat to watch, and takes my mind off of my immediate future. One of the party behind us, Ken, is a climber with a lot of 5.12 gear route war stories and is a neat guy to share the ledge with. He also proves to be an indispensable beta dispenser for me on the next pitch; as I start up he keeps a running commentary going which does help me. Sometimes I really hate that sort of thing but here it seems to be working, although I do choose to disregard his advice for the first 10+ crux move in a shallow dihedral approaching the looming chimney slot above me. As I enter the chimney I enter my nemesis from the time before. This slot is difficult to describe. It flares so my left side is squnched too tight while my right side is loose so that I can't backstep like one normally does in a chimney. It isn't too hard to hang out but I cannot move! I do some weird undulations gaining a couple of inches and then start to slide! I think I'm going for a ride, but of its own accord my body somehow squelches outwards dropping me down into a more normal chimney position and I cam to a halt! At first I am elated but after more wriggling and squirming I find I am disappointingly back to my former position. Ken is continuously telling me to relax and breathe and so on and when I listen I do get less desperate and think of constructive ways to approach the situation other than repeating "Oh shit!!" to myself. Every time I try something though the "Oh Shit" resumes and I drop back down to my spot until Ken can get me calmed down again. Somehow I eventually get something that feels good and loose my chimney position for a short desperate moment to hop my right foot onto a decent foothold and amaze myself by standing up with my head under the roof! Here I get protection and at this point feel unstoppable although the roof is another solid 5.10 move. It appears to be a pitch for squirming and full-body contact with the rock in general and the roof is no exception. I basically find a good hold wayyyy up high and haul myself flopping and wriggling over the top! Wow am I psyched! Did it! Was a real watershed for me after the grief this pitch had caused in the past. Jon follows without falls or other incidents and fires off the 5th pitch. He goes all the way to the top and we are completely out of communication. I am a bit sketched as I am starting off of a highly exposed (~600 feet) hanging belay with hard moves right off the belay, and I am not completely sure I am on belay or not. We have a rule however that 2 minutes after the rope is pulled the second is on, so I give it a good time, hold my breath and take off. I take one fall on the first 5.11 move right off the belay. This is the test I guess! Rope stretch and all, I do drop down a good 8' and then thankfully stop. Having empirically established that I am on belay, I manage to fire off the 5.11 move next time, again with crucial beta from Ken who by now is at the belay on top of the 4th pitch. I turn the corner to face the overhanging hand crack and suddenly find that I have completely forgotten how to climb cracks during my recent year long interlude of almost exclusively bouldering!!!! Let's just say that I do not do this section of the climb with great style!! Oh well, I am totally psyched about this day, and 4 1/2 stylin' pitches is ok. While aiding the crack I enjoy the complete exposure beneath me. It is awesome. I am ~700' directly above the canyon far below. And that's about it - except - later I run into Ken and learn that he took a 30' whipper on the hand crack!!! He seemed a little tired or something this day (maybe tired of the waiting!) and says that his tape ripped unexpectedly at the top of the crack with protection far below him. He had a lot of trouble getting back on the climb from that position too. Guess that was a pain!! I'm completely exhausted and have a sore backside from pressing so hard against the chimney on the 4th pitch but am very elated about this day. The Naked Edge is the most awesome route I have done. I couldn't think of a way to design a better route - the way all the pitches are highly varied, no bad sections on the whole climb - made to swap leads giving each person an unforgettable dose of lead stories to tell. And every type of climbing on it - thin crack, face, hand crack, wide crack, chimney, and more! I realize that Greg just posted a trip report on the Naked Edge (Damn, he beat me to the punch), but here is another one anyway. It is from the perspective of a much weaker climber and therefore gives a different slant to the route. Enjoy or skip.... ----------------------------------------------------------------- Naked Came I To The Edge! What am I doing up here? I don't belong here. I haven't earned it and I haven't paid my dues. The exposure is awesome and the climbing over my head. Way over. I hang at the belay and crane my neck back to watch the Doctorb work the desperate traverse at the start of the pitch. The last pitch. The last pitch of the Naked Edge! My first rock climb was the super classic Wind Ridge (5.6) on the Wind Tower in Eldorado Canyon. The weather was perfect and the climb was stimulating. Hard, challenging, a bit scary, but I made it. The sky had never seemed so blue and I knew I was hooked. I would be a rock climber. After the climb my more experienced partner pointed out the area classics. Finally he pointed up to a knife edge that cut the highest tower right to the very summit and said, "That's the Naked Edge. The most famous climb in Colorado." I was mesmerized; in awe of the scary line and I never thought I would climb it. Through the years I learned more about the route. First climbed by the legendary Layton Kor and Bob Culp in 1962 (direct, normal finish added in 1964 by Kor also); first free climbed by Jim Erickson and Duncan Ferguson in 1971; first free soloed by Jim Collins after falling on four of the five times he had previously climbed the route!. What history! What a classic line! The biggest, most glaring, most inexcusable blunder of "50 Classic Climbs of North American" was not including this ultra-classic. The Doctorb had called me and left a message: "Bill, I'm feeling stupid..." Immediately my palms began to sweat and my knees began to knock. Whenever the Doctorb is "feeling stupid" it means something long, scary, and hard. And hard for him is out of my league. So why me? Maybe me likes the looks of horror that appear on my face whenever I climb with him, or the hyperventilating I do when on the brink of puking. I don't know, but I wasn't turning down a chance of seeing the Edge up close. I didn't know how much freeclimbing I would be able to do, but it didn't matter that much. I wanted to see this baby up close. By now the Doctorb was my therapist/doctor and the doctor recommended pain. He recommended fear. He recommended commitment and exposure. He recommended the Edge. I was a shell of a climber seeking guidance through therapy and was powerless to abstain and obediently submitted. This was to be our third climb together. The other two being the Northwest Corner of the Bastille and Grand Giraffe/Diving Board. I was getting a guided tour of the Eldo classics and a fast introduction to hardman climbing. Too fast. I didn't measure up, but I didn't care either. We were trying to squeeze it in after work and met at the Mesa Trailhead at 4:00 p.m. Was it too late? Just the day before I was caught in darkness coming down off this wall. I decided to bring my headlamp. I ducked out of work, a new job, and wondered if I would have one tomorrow. No matter. Jump in the car; jam in a tape and the Alarm starts screaming out prophetic lyrics: Give me hope, Give me strength, Give me someone to live for.... I pull into the parking lot and the Doctorb is already there. I leap out. "Naked Edge, Doctorb!" I say with false bravado, my stomach already churning with fear. "Let's go get spanked." One rope, a couple of water bottles, a big rack, and we were off. Up the trail to the ramp, we were at the base of the wall by 4:30 p.m. . To save time we selected the Ramp Route (5.7) as our passage to the Lower Meadow. Bruce led off. I led through and up the overhang of the cave pitch (5.8) to the base of the Naked Edge. As Bruce prepared to launch into the first pitch, a 5.11a finger crack, I checked my watch: 5:11 p.m. I called out the time, not even noticing it significance. "That's appropriate," said Bruce and launched upwards. Bruce is a large man. He told me this before I ever met him. He said, "I a big guy. I set the standard for bigness." At 6'3" and 200 pounds, Doctorb is larger than your average climber. His arms are huge, like an NBA power forwards' and I expected him to climb with burly power. Yet his footwork is exquisite, precise, imaginative. It was quite a lesson watching him calmly work the stems on this pitch. Completely solid. He made it look so easy that I thought I had a chance at it...Wrong! This pitch is hard right off the ledge and never lets up. A very tricky move gets you on top of a block and from here it is finger locks, liebacks and lots of tricky, tiring, precise stemming. I made it past the first 10c crux, barely, but was baffled at the 11a section. I tried to use the arete on the left remembering that Bruce had grabbed it, but couldn't get back to the crack and fell off. I attacked the corner directly and again a few feet before falling off again. The top section of this pitch is rated 10c, but Bruce thinks it is the crux and I also found it to be very hard: falling off yet again. It was going to be a long climb. Bruce had run the first two pitches together so I now faced the second pitch. It starts up with exposed face climbing right up the arete. Bruce didn't place any gear here and I shuddered at the thought of leading this pitch. I reached a bulge right on the arete and here I had to cross over to the other side. A tricky 5.9 move and I was around and facing the crux up the second pitch. This move is rated 10b but I found it very insecure, hard, and scary with sketchy pro. I fall once here and set up for the move 7 or 8 times before I finally got it with a desperate reach for a finger lock from two slopers. Bruce was above me loving my dilemma. He kept muttering things like, "You have now entered the Sloping Zone." and "Sloper City, dude!" Shut up and drop me a loop of rope to grab, I thought, but he pressed me to work it out and stay with it. I got it the second try. The third pitch was my lead. It is the longest pitch of the route and the crux is a tricky mantle. This is another classic pitch, as each are, with great exposure. You climb both side of the arete, weaving back and forth across it until you arrive at a nice, unexposed belay on sloping ramp. This pitch is unique in that it was the only one that I didn't fall on. And my only lead. As I belayed Bruce up, I scoped out the next, fourth, pitch. It looked very hard, but not the horror I expected. Bruce powers up the initial moves, hangs up from almost nothing an casually backs up the ancient pin that protects the crux moves into the start of the chimney. This is the first time I have ever seen Bruce work hard, though he was never close to coming off. He worked his way up to the roof, placed a couple of good pieces and swung out on a big flake. Then he powered up the final 10c moves to a three bolt hanging belay over a lot of nothing. Pass or play? I'll play, Doctorb. The moves on this pitch are desperate for me, but I don't fall off the initial dihedral. I can't believe people can climb shit like this and place gear! As I near the entry moves to the chimney Bruce is giving me the running beta and lots of encouragement. I feel I can't fall off because I will disappoint him too much. With some ugly, thrashing, chimney moves I make it into the chimney and up to the roof. I freed the crux of this pitch (11a), but know I am light years away from leading it. I bungle the next section in my truest form. Scared about the potential fall, I thought there was no gear from here to the belay - fifteen horizontal feet - and that a fall would send me screaming around the corner, I didn't clean the gear at the top of the roof until I swung out on the flake. Pulling the gear from here blew out what was left of my arms and I fell. Much to my surprise, I didn't go very far. Bruce had placed another cam along the traverse after he had already reached the belay - just for me. Thanks, Doctorb! Stupidity and fear had prevented me from my only chance at climbing one of these pitches clean. As Roseanne Roseanne Diana used to say: "If it's not one thing, then it's the other." I now know that I couldn't aid this route because, apparently there is mandatory free moves out of this chimney, unless you pound in a couple of pins. I guess I won't be running back to this route without someone like Bruce to do the leading. Which brings me to where this story first started: belaying Bruce up the final pitch. The light is fading on us. It is past eight as he starts the pitch. The initial moves are all overhanging as you work out this ramp up and right to a move around the corner. Bruce stays bunched up a bit in order to keep his feet above the overhang and in the game. He moves very solidly, but I can tell it takes a great effort, even from Bruce. I had heard previously that this was the crux of the whole route. I knew I couldn't do it. And if I fell off this section I might not be able to get back on the rock. The ropes hung free below with hundreds of feet of air below them. The rope is moving continuously through my device as Bruce labors on the overhanging crack around the corner. I am fiddling with the rope trying to make sure no snags hold Bruce up when I suddenly hear "Falling!" Down comes Bruce and up I go. From hanging a couple of feet below the bolt anchors, I get slammed upwards and into the rock drawing blood from my arm and shin. Bruce has taken at least a twenty footer and his 200 pound mass has free fallen the entire distance generating a non trivial force. He is unhurt as he hit nothing. More damage is done to me. Why did he fall so far? I must not have been attentive enough because he wasn't ten feet above his gear. Damn! The one job I can contribute to the ascent and I can't even do that right. Bruce said he just greased out of the hand crack. It is very polished up here and the day was warm. Of course, a good healthy pump contributed to the fall also, he mentioned. Bruce is pumped and needs a rest so I hold him. He is swinging at the end of his rope 600 feet above the ground. After a moment I ask him how he plans on getting back on the route. "I'm not sure," he says. By kicking he gets himself swinging and then grabs the rock and then finally the rope. Now he can winch himself up and back onto the rock with me locking him off. A moment later he is back at the climbing, around the corner out of my site. All my concentration is upon the flow of the rope. Two quick pulls - he is clipping gear. Now slack on the line - he is moving past gear clipped above him. Now a steady draw on the rope - he is climbing above gear. I reposition myself in order to reduce the bodily damage should he take another fall. He doesn't. Soon his heads pops above the arete and a whoop of joy escapes his mouth. The hard part is over and it is an easy cruise to the belay. Almost all the rope gets drawn up as Bruce moves over the summit slabs and down to an alcove with a tree. Of course I don't know this at the time and can't hear anything at all. We had rope signals setup but I can't distinguish them. Soon as the rope is out and I assume he must be at the belay. A little way later the rope pulls tight. I must be on belay, but I don't want to take any chances. "Am...I...On...Belay?" I yell, but there is no answer. Yikes. I unclip from one belay anchor and the rope comes tight again - a sure sign that I am on belay. It's party time. In waning light (this seems familiar) and totally psyched out, I start the pitch. If I fall, I might not be able to get back on this route because of the intense overhang. These moves are the hardest on the climb and I have been getting my ass kicked...consistently. I feel the initial holds...and make a quick judgment call. I start grabbing gear. Many of you will shake your heads in disgust...so be it. If I had jumars I might have used them also. Up the tiny, overhanging ramp and around the corner. Even grabbing all the gear this is desperate for me and tiring. One glance at the overhanging crack around the corner and I know I am in trouble. This final crack is so steep it makes the Diving Board look like a slab. A 5.7 slab at that. This pitch is simply in another league than the earlier ones. A league many grades above where I should be. Your a long way from home now, I thought. The jams here are tight hands in flaring constrictions spaced widely. The crack here is too wide to jam except for at these constrictions. I fall off once. Twice. Pull on the friend and climb way above it so that when I weight the rope I am level with it...except that I swing out into space and can barely reach it! This pitch is so steep that if the gear isn't placed closely enough you could fall off this pitch and never return to it. Now the crack has turned into nice hands. Except for the angle that is. Very overhanging. I lieback up sections, something I would never do on lead, but I'm not leading this pitch anytime soon anyway. Probably not this lifetime. From here on up I don't have to hang anymore but it is all I can do finish it off. The hardest pitch I have seen in Eldo. I come bumbling over the top with gear strewn all over me, water bottles clanking against the rock, thoroughly beaten. "YESSSSS!!!" my voice echoed off the deeply shadowed sandstone walls. A primal scream of victory? For what? you might ask. For aiding up the Naked Edge? Yes. Yes, yes, yes. For simply climbing the route. Am I a 5.11 climber? Hell, no! I'm not even much of a 5.10 climber. But I did find myself walking a little taller, holding my head a little higher. I was a virgin no longer. I had hoped to better acquit myself on this route, but it was not be. I wouldn't feel comfortable leading any of the hard pitches. I am a low 5.10 climber being dragged into the world of real men. I don't belong. I can't even follow properly. A babe in the woods.... Wedding Vows Wedding Vows A trip report for the Diving Board, Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. Early September, 1995. I get to the parking lot where I am meeting Rex to do an as yet unspecified climb in Eldorado. 2pm. We'd been using Rex's gear and up until this point in climbing with him I had never brought gear. His rack only goes up to a #2 Camalot though, and I don't know why, something prompted me to stuff a #3 and a #4 Camalot in my pack this time, even though for all I knew we wouldn't need it. My intuition proved uncanny though, because Rex suggested the Diving Board. He had borrowed a #4 Camalot and a #3 Camalot so we were well racked for it, although I did have only a pair of slippers and I was a little concerned about this. I decided it was so wide that I wouldn't be foot jamming anyway. The only other question was the time. In the past I have been a prime contender for Eldorado's slow climber award, frequently being the last car out of the parking lot well after dark. Recently that has been getting better, either because I choose easier climbs now or because I'm getting faster in my old age, but in any case the DB in September starting at 2:30 at the base seemed a bit questionable. But I said yes and we went off. The rock was blisteringly hot at first. Rex led up the first pitch of Redguard route (actually a variation in the corner left of the main line to try to be in the shade). I felt quite uneasy following the for me unprotected traverse at the top of the pitch because the rock was really greasy. We managed to make tolerably good time in the middle part of Redguard (still approaching the base of the DB, which parallels the naked edge and starts several pitches off the deck). We even simul climbed for about 80' or so, even though Rex did not know this at the time and just thought he had not used up as much rope as was actually the case. I actually had trouble following at one point of the water groove in the middle of Redguard. I don't know what I was thinking (maybe low angle offwidth technique), but it definitely was not "lieback", a method that made the move seem all too easy when I finally resorted to it. Someplace along in here, as I was starting a lead, Rex asked me two questions: "Is this really a good idea?" and "Wouldn't it be a better idea if we went back down?". I pondered for a moment, and responded: "NO" to the first question and "YES" to the second before continuing with my lead. I cleverly bypassed the first two pitches of the DB proper, much to Rex's dismay, by climbing further up Redguard than I was supposed to and then traversing left to join the DB before the two crux pitches that are after all what make the climb a classic (overhanging 5.10 and 5.11, right next to the Naked Edge's final pitches and very exposed). I had a good excuse because I had had no idea we were going to do this climb and had not looked at the guidebook - all I knew was we were going to the obvious overhanging crack line, so I took the best way I could come up with to get there. I was actually happy that I had done this by the time I found out what had happened, because by now after 6 pitches time was beginning to be worrisome (neither of us had a watch, though) and it would certainly have taken significantly longer if we had done the two lower pitches, even if they were easier at 5.8. On the other hand, if we had done those, we might have been delayed enough so that when we got to the spot before things got committing, we might have decided to traverse over to Redguard and finish on the 5.6 pitch of that route.... Rex started up the first 5.10 pitch of the overhang. At first it traverses without pro and is reputed to be 5.9 although on follow I felt it was easier. Then Rex disappeared from sight and the rope moved up irregularly with long pauses. At last there was a very long pause indeed and I began to wonder what was happening. Eventually it moved again and then he was at the belay and soon I was climbing. I enjoyed the finger jam moves on the lower part of the pitch a lot and found the crux move quite difficult (this accounted for the long pause). Now it was my turn. It was obvious at this point that we had little daylight left. I got out of sight of the belay very quickly as the line dives off to the right and then up a kind of a chimney type affair. I felt good because up to this point I had not fallen but I felt little hope of onsighting the crux in the twilight and in a hurry - I would be unlikely to even under ideal conditions, realistically. I would say it was late twilight. I really did not make much of an effort to free the crux. However, I soon realized that Frenching it was not going to be easy either! I had only a single #4 Camalot at my disposal and the wide section of the crack was too long to be able to get past it using only it. So, after several tries I succeeded in free climbing the last part of the crux from as high up as I could get in slings from the #4 Camalot. I was feeling like I really had to do it because retreat was not an option at this point. It was dark by the time I got to the belay. Also, it was a new moon and we had no headlamp. Rex followed the pitch in the dark, aiding the crux moves. Now all we had to do was descend the east slabs, with their tricky routefinding. I have gotten lost on these things even in the daylight. However, luck was on our side because we took the absolutely ideal line down the slabs. It was almost the neatest part of the climb for me, because I would meander down a slab having no idea if I was on the right track and then come upon a move or two that I recognized from the last time I'd been up there, over a year before. We were both really really ready to be back by the time we were just trudging down the brush pile, though. It was particularly annoying to lean your weight into a dark shadow that looked like a rock only to find it was a bush and to go headlong into it. For me it was still a good adventure though. Great climb - I'll really have to go back and do it for real now.
Feb 6, 2003
Sorry for the bad beta on the death route. It has been awhile since I've done it. No deliberate sandbag intended. Go do Wunch's instead, unless it is only accesible by boat now, has burned down, or is closed due to some contrived Forest Service regulation.
Dec 18, 2002
The Right Side of the Folly, aka the Good Book, is a death zone. See: supertopo.com/rockclimbing/…
Dec 17, 2002
The Right Side of the Folly has been shut down from rock fall for years.
Dec 17, 2002
To AC: In the Valley, the Right Side of the Folly (10d) is a great route and excellent training for the endurance pitch on The Man. Go forth young grasshopper, and send!
Dec 17, 2002
Personally I found Astroman to be a whole different animal altogether than the Edge... really no comparison in terms of commitment and fitness required. Astroman has long physical cracks while the Edge has short, weird, technical pitches. I've never done Levitation 29 but isn't that basically a long sporty-sport climb? Anyway, I agree with Brad's advice: don't "save Astroman for the onsight", just go for it and don't stress about the flash. I think the best way to train for it is by going to the Valley: do Steck-Salathe to prepare for the Harding Slot, do the Rostrum and crag at the Cookie to get used to the cracks, and do the DNB to get into the high-commitment frame of mind. You may have difficulty finding hard free-climbing partners in Camp4 so showing up with a plan and a partner is key.
Dec 16, 2002
Technically speaking, Astroman isn't much harder than the Edge. The pump/endurance factor is another issue. It sounds like you're there technically, so go to Indian Creek and spend a week climbing 5.11 or 11+ enduro cracks and you'll be there. The Rostrum is a good warm-up, but the Man is considerably harder. Don't stress out about flashing it; it's just an awesome feature to climb.
Dec 14, 2002
I'm looking for an opinion. In August 2001 I lead and onsighted every pitch from Touch & Go to the summit of the Naked Edge. I felt I was at my limit on the last 2 pitches. Months later in April I onsighted all pitches to Levitation 29 in Red Rocks. I frequently onsight 5.11- crag routes on the east coast as well as desert cracks and granite cracks on the west coast. My big desire is to onsight Astroman in Yosemite or at least give it one hell of a go. I'm not looking for criticism but just an opinion from a seasoned fellow climber or from someone who feels they might be at the same level I am at and maybe the same desire. Also, If this comment sparks any interest for anyone as wanting to be a possible compatible partner then please let me know. Finding a partner who is willing to do the routes I want to do is difficult. That's why I end up leading all the pitches. I think Astroman is a route I need a partner who is going to take some of the leads.
Dec 13, 2002
there's a nut placement a few inches below that upperward driven pin on pith 4. After [I] fell on the pin and hyperextended my back, I put in this back up stopper below the pin.
Nov 5, 2002
Climbed the Edge on Sunday. Every pitch is stellar. I thought Patrick Vernon's description and gear beta were superb. I also used some of the gear beta posted in the comments such as the alien placement on the chimney pitch. Thanks to everyone for providing excellent information on this climb. Carol Kotchek
Sep 11, 2002
Excellent synopsis of the route, Bill, and thoroughly enjoyable to read. Thanks!
Aug 24, 2002
A friend suggested that I post a link to a TR I recently wrote about getting dragged up this route by Hardly Manson. So, for what it's worth, here it is: daniellaytonwright.com/clim… Bill
Aug 20, 2002
I finally got on this route yesterday after years of aspiration and must say it was even better than my expectations. The move getting past the second pin on the 4th pitch seemed just as hard as getting into the chimney above the third pin and for some reason this section proved to be the most difficult part of the climb for me. Is it standard to use that large hold way out to the climbers left then move back right? I tried to stay in the dihedral and use that tiny crimper on the face to the right which left me with a very long reach up to the next good hold. The 2nd pin also looks a bit suspect (downward facing) and I was unable to back it up although maybe it is possible.
Aug 16, 2002
For those of us who are very afraid of the fourth pitch and the expanding flake that holds the usual pro for the moves into the chimney, it's easy to reach left and place a good 3/4" cam (the yellow Alien, I believe). This piece is good. Trust me.
Aug 13, 2002
For the onsight, the start of pitch 5 is definitely the hardest bit of climbing on the route. Once you get the right beta though, its not even the crux of the pitch! Its just one of those moves... A #4 friend nicely protects the start of the handcrack on pitch 5 and is really the only decent piece of gear you can get for the "Cave exit" on the approach pitch.
Aug 12, 2002
For those of you with Friends, the fifth pitch pitch sews up with one each of Friends 1-4 (including half sizes) in order! So a single set of Friends works precisely on this pitch. You'll need something in addition for the belay.
Aug 8, 2002
Last summer, insted of going in the chimney on the 4th pitch, I traverse (face climb) right after the pins in the flake. Do you guys know this variation (FA, Rating)... I think it's harder and scarier than the original chimney final part... This route is just great!!!
Nov 30, 2001
Bravo, Steve. Thanks for yet another interesting addition - reading history like this is why I hit this site every time I'm online....
Oct 19, 2001
Some historical tidbits: when first free climbed in the early 1970s pitch 1 was the standout crux of the route, due to the abundance of fixed pins filling up most of the finger jams. This was first led by Steve Wunsch and rated 5.10+. On the complete FFA of the route a short while later Jim Erickson, in blue suede RRs, sans chalk, stemmed the entire pitch using only a finger jam or two. Over the years the first pitch became easier and easier, as more pins fell out. By the late 1970s no fixed pins remained, and now, with sticky rubber and chalk, we consider this lead 5.11a. Although it is easy for many nowadays to consider this route a casual stroll, consider going up there with primitive passive protection (first generation hexes, weird Moacs, parallel-sided stoppers), bulky rock shoes, no chalk, and only the complete unknown to great you (the approach of the early free climbers shunned any type of preview, and neither Jim nor Duncan Ferguson were into aid climbing). Truly one of the greatest ascents in Colorado history. If you see Jim at the Boulder Rock Club, ask him about his experience on the fifth pitch- it is a very interesting tale. Interestingly, he has never returned to the Edge since he and Duncan first free climbed it.
Oct 18, 2001
The gear suggested for the fifth pitch is adequate for leading the pitch (indeed, most people can get by with one less piece), but you'll need gear to build the anchor. There is one fixed pin, so you'll likely want at least two more pieces. None of your smaller stuff will fit. If you're trying to save weight, you can use a couple of hexes (#8, 9), since you won't be needing this gear elsewhere on the route. Otherwise, a variety of cams in the range of #1-2 Camalots will work. Some people consider the entire block at the belay site suspect, and place a larger cam in the horizontal ten feet higher. If you're totally out of gear, and you began from the belay atop the fourth (not the third) pitch, you probably can runout the last pitch and belay from a tree at the top but you'll be missing out on one of the great belays in Eldo and communications with your partner will be a nightmare. Tom Isaacson
Jul 31, 2001
Steve Levin is right when he says that the 1st & 2nd and 4th & 5th pitches can be combined without rope drag. Double ropes aren't necessary if you're careful and use long slings in the Chimney. Re escape, while a 60m rope leaves you 10' shy of the 2d belay while rapping the 3d pitch, a 70m rope works like a charm. The description is also inaccurate about sewing up the final handcrack for the second's benefit! A piece at the start of the handcrack (above the bulge) and one at the top protect it quite nicely for the second. One further point of clarification--Gilbert and Slater's record was not completely roped. They soloed unroped to the base of the first pitch. Chris Archer
May 25, 2001
I was looking in the guidebook today, and the runnout .8 crack I described for the start was listed as runnout .10! Its probably not that hard, but in retrospect it is harder than .8, maybe .9+ and definitely not a good fall potential. Why am I telling you this? Well it looks pretty simple from the ground, but is harder and definately dangerous.
Jan 1, 2001
Well, that doesn't surprise me, Pat, that you would underestimate or dare I say sandbag a pitch or a whole climb. I've NEVER heard you say something like, "Yeah, it was rated 12a s, but is actually more like 11c or so." ;-)
Jan 1, 2001
Alternate Route Description: first pitch is a killer finger crack the crux for most is a stem with left hand on the left arete about half way up. The second pitch starts on a slab climb this slab around a corner to a 5.10 crack. 3rd pitch is a long 5.8 section to the upper two pitches. This is were it gets really exciting. The next two pitches are overhanging and are extremely exposed. Climb up a finger hand crack make a dynamic move to a little ledge make some face moves up to a piton move left and up into a bombay chiminey go to a roof around the roof right around the roof and up to the belay (5.11). the beginning of the 5th pitch is the crux of the route thats the face moves getting off the belay. Make some face moves on to a upperward slanted ramp. Follow this ramp to the corner arete go around arete. don forget to look 600feet or so down to the valley floor here. And ascend the 5.10 hand crack. The last pitch scrambles off to the left to the top 5.6.
Jan 1, 2001
- Natural Mystic
- No Lo Contendere
My friend Mike Brooks stuck me on this a long time ago. Not sure how long ago this was, but as I recall "someone" had just led it and there were no bolts until clipping the last bolt on the Contest. What I remember about doing this was for one it was pretty good and the other that it was pretty spicy. Another aspect of this route is that I don't think I would have noticed it or climbed it for that matter if it hadn't been for Mike who had a penchant for the obscure (he probably just wanted a ride up it - typical Brooks sandbag). As for the retrofitting with bolts, I can't comment except that if it's tastefully done and gets the line more traffic so be it. I remember that in its "natural" state, you would want to be real comfortable at that level.
Oct 26, 2012
The 5.8 section can be protected by RPs and a #1 and #2 Ballnut. As soon as you stand up above the crux roof, a #1 Ballnut can be placed in the seam on the left. A few moves higher I got a very good RP in the same seam. I would have been willing to fall on the RP but did not feel as good about the Ballnut simply because if it blew it was a long way above the bolt (it appeared to be good though). I placed the #2 Ballnut a bit higher and to the right. With these three pieces, a groundfall is unlikely before you reach the ramp.
Mar 31, 2011
I think this is a good & worthy route, but don't get on it if you don't have the skills for a little risque climbing. You have to be in control to do this climb and you probably will deck if you fall at the 5.8ish move getting to the ramp 20' above the first bolt. The opening moves should filter out most that should not be on this route.
Nov 22, 2008
My buddy jumped off at the first bolt, with a little bit of warning, so I got some slack in. The fall was not too scary, but the potential for getting gored by the half broken off tree branch is. I thought the upper part is pretty good and the lower part is better than some of the routes people call 'classics'.
Mar 29, 2008
I did the same subliminal seduction to no lo contendre, fell at the crux move pulling onto the ledge. stopped about 4 feet off the ground. A Scary fall but clean and once you pull through that move it's easy climbing, be solid on 10 or be good at rolling out of your fall the first bolt is about 10 feet up, but thats only bouldering height anyways. Fun Route!!!
Mar 9, 2008
I was fortunate enough to top-rope this route and I thought the rock and the moves, especially above the ramp halfway up, were excellent. It seemed like a real hidden gem in that regard. I don't have any desire to comment on the bolting, except to say I'm glad I wasn't leading.
Mar 17, 2005
As you can tell from my prior comment, IMHO not a worthwhile route. Negative stars for the 8X or VS runout between the bolted sections. Poor craftsmanship for a route placed on rappel. Bolts close together close to the ground with a long stretch until higher bolts mislead one to believe you can find natural pro in between. Don't lead it unless you are willing to pay the piper.
Aug 29, 2003
Honesty, fine, but this route really should get fixed or chopped. A very competent, former FHRC'er led this climb and got scared silly. There is major potential to keep climbing with shit for gear risking the big chop above the little roof until you get to the upper protected section. You proposed the bolts and now you think it should be fixed, so fix it. Submit the proposal.
Mar 7, 2002
I wasn't that impressed by the line. The balancy moves over the roof are fun, but no where near as classic as most other Eldo routes I've done. IMHO, I dont think it should warrant bolts, but its a free country, and the bolts aren't bothering me any, really!
Nov 28, 2001
I just did this route for the first time on sat. 11/10 after Steve Diekhoff rescued my ropes! Thanks Steve! I thought the route was superb! I especially liked the balancy rock-over moves necessary to mantle the little roofs! I am also happy for the first bolt at the lip of the roof. Thanks again!
Nov 12, 2001
I have never climbed your route but I [climbed] The Contest a few times a year and always traverse one extra foot to the left after the crux to clip your bolt. Thanx much. It has made this route less committing than it was in the past.
Nov 12, 2001
Funny, I was just thinking of adding this route to the guide, but I am glad I did not. The history contained above is more interesting than anything I could have said, so I am glad that Steve made the contribution. That aside, here is my opinion on the route: I did it with the bolts in place last year. I thought that the lower face was simply a matter of concentration, but that a fall would produce grave (pun) results if it occurred at certain points. The upper (bolted) 1/2 is adequtely protected, but the move toward the right certainly produces a situation (crux) in which a somewhat uncomfortable fall could occur- the bolt would be to the left and the climber just up and right. Since the wall is quite featured here, it seems a leader could take a minor thump-and-scuffing. Injury seems unlikely, but pain seems likely. My partner and I concurred that this had been a lousy choice of warm-ups (even if you usually warm up on 5.10), and Peter described it as a lead he would not ever choose to do. I agree that the crux is significantly harder than the runout portion of the climb, and thus the "S" rating is debatable, but I suppose I am inclined to rate the lower 1/2 "S." and say the upper half is a little ennervating, but safe. This is my $.02.
Nov 7, 2001
- Old Bad Aid Crack
- One Way Out
- Orifophobia
- Physical Graffiti
Great climbing and safe (without feeling like an all out sport route). The crux felt hard at 5.11+ to me but probably in line with Eldo grades. The only other 11+ I've done there was Le Toit Direct (earlier that day), which struck me as a little bit easier.
Oct 30, 2017
I'm not sure how you get down rapping to the Le Void anchor... the rat's nest is super tough to get to. We ended up leaving a biner on the two bolts of After the Gold Rush....
Apr 3, 2016
Thanks for the time and development of this new line. The technical face and traverse were challenging and fun. I didn't pull the crux roof clean but still enjoyed it. If someone wanted to skip the crux, it looked like you could traverse left into the crack. Gear beta: after the last bolt, I wasn't sure whether to go left or right to the slung horn. Both looked lichenful and runout. I went left, and it was annoying. I checked afterwards and found a slot for a nut out right and a #2 C4 in a hidden pocket. I'd recommend it.
Mar 7, 2016
Fantastic! The traverse is interesting and sustained, and the crux through the bulge is quite powerful. It's somewhat of a reach to make the 2nd clip (extendo cheater draw helped me). Thanks for the route, guys!
May 12, 2015
Thanks for the work. This is a nice line.
Mar 8, 2015
This is another route for which to thank A.C.E., GO ACE!
Jan 21, 2015
- Plastic Jesus
The key piece of gear on the pitch is a blue Alien or 0.2 Camalot. I would suggest 3-4 cams in this size and doubles up to a 0.75 Camalot. It is possible to traverse to Wild Kingdom's last bolt, if you can't figure out the finishing moves on PJ.
May 14, 2006
I didn't read any of this before I did this climb and finished right on the bigger holds because I was pumped. I tend to have insecure footwork and stong arms, so I pull a lot harder than average on holds that I can wrap up (at least if the number of holds I spin or break at a gym is any indicator). I reached the final flake and it creaked and groaned, urging me to back off a little. So yes, I think you can finish on it (I did) but think someday someone big is going to pull hard and it will come off. It is large enough that should it turn loose it will mame or kill someone below if it hits them. Luckily, the odds of such would seem extremely low.
Mar 15, 2006
Steep, exposed face climbing with pretty good rock. The pro is good except for the 5.9ish traverse left after the crux. A grey (smallest) TCU can provide top rope pro for the crux. A gold Camalot fits perfectly into a hole in an othewise hard to protect area near the end of the pitch. In my book, a solid Eldo 3 star outing when done in conjunction with Le Toit and Rosy Le Toit. My partner and I felt that 11C was a pretty soft Eldo rating for this pitch, especially when compared to the "10d" first pitch of Le Toit.
Aug 25, 2004
This is a sustained and interesting climb in a great position. The gear is bomber though the hard moves are a bit above your last piece. It seems that this is the logical finish to Rosy instead of simply a varation.
Oct 6, 2003
I was climbing Rosy one time while some folks were above us on this route...the leader pulled off a decent sized flake, but somehow managed to keep from dropping it (or falling). Since we were below him as well as people on the lower ramp, he put the thing down his pants and led the rest of the pitch that way!
Mar 17, 2003
I have done this both ways and would advise going left at the top. The right finish requires the leader to yard (In my case, for dear life!) on a huge loose flake that feels like it could come off, a good ways above the last piece.
Mar 16, 2003
Talked with Roger about the way he went on the first ascent. He moved right at the blank-out spot, not left like I described in the comments. Either way its good climbing. -SL
May 2, 2002
- Predator
Fantastic route! Do it. 4 star movement, 4 star position, but maybe 3 stars on rock quality. Long pitch and sustained and deserving of R, I think, but maybe I missed the gear. Watch the second clip. Woohoo! Watch out on the one loose horn flake. It was flexing like crazy. Surprised it held me!
May 30, 2017
Hard to give three stars to a route with so many crucial holds about to go. I give it 2.5 stars for the spectacular position and great climbing, but generally chossy rock. The first 50-60 feet until the 5th bolt are very pumpy. The climbing wanders and you end up trying to rest from awkward stances while you routefind. The climbing favors tall climbers, since many of the lower cruxes involve the classic Eldo, "how do I get up to that jug?" syndrome. As for the difficulty, the climbing isn't as hard as consensus-11+ face climbs like Back in Black or Le Boomerang. But it is harder than several face climbs rated 11+ in the guidebook, which are more like mid-5.11, like Sunrider, Roll Over Rover, and Stargate. The 11c/d guidebook rating seems about right.
Jul 20, 2004
The loose flake is broken off, but below it, there is stilla stub. The reach off of this is big and I pulled HARD on it- retreating quickly when it flexed far enough for my fingers to slide behind it. It may still go with a hard tug, making the route harder and more sustained. It certainly will not hold a fall on gear. It felt solid when I pulled more conservatively on it to reach an intermediate rather than yarding on it wholesale.
Jul 5, 2004
WARNING --- There is a very large, loose flake above and to the left of the 3rd bolt. (Fourth if you count the first bolt on Rosy.) It used to harbor a good left hand finger jam and optional alien placement, but it shifted and is now teetering there ready to go. It is directly above your belayer on the ramp. Climbing around the flake makes this section only slightly harder. Mike Schlauch
Aug 10, 2003
- PsychGillLogical
- Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent
Sensational. Two different climbs in one pitch: trad Eldo mankfest followed by high quality and well protected steep Eldo slabbing. You'll feel you've earned your bolts after dealing with the first 40' of infrequent protection and questionable rock. Not a one move wonder by any means but I thought there was a distinct crux near the top of the corner.
Apr 27, 2004
- Rosy Crucifixion
I found a slight variation on P3. After the bolt and barn door move, Rossiter gives the remainder of the route a grade of 5.2 to the tree. If you instead stay on the face and traverse left up the diagonal band in a straight line to the Predator anchor, you get 30' or so of exposed 5.7+ or so climbing that protects reasonably well with medium-sized Camalots.
Apr 12, 2017
Linking P1 and P2 felt harder than the either of the crux pitches on Outer Space or Super Slab, with a definite redpoint crux at the end of the 2nd pitch (at least for the onsight). My buddy Kirtis who tried it a couple of days later felt the same way and also came up with the brilliant name "Crucifying Alice" for the obvious and full value link up into Alice in Bucketland.
Mar 6, 2017
Bolts ... the kids these days!
Jan 4, 2017
Always been a 'high value' route. It was particularly interesting before the bolts and cams. There were thousands of ascents without the bolts - hard to believe they've been allowed to stay.
Jun 17, 2016
This route is everything we love about climbing... dead vertical, truly exposed, and beautiful unforgiving movement. Pitches are short, but every inch packs a punch.
Jan 20, 2016
What the heck are bolts doing on this wonderful, easily protected climb. How dare someone put bolts in a climb that has been climbed hundreds of times with just stoppers and Friends. I haven't climb it in a while, obviously, but it should never been desecrated with bolts!!! If you can't climb trad, you have no business defacing a climb of this caliber so you can clip you draws. Shame on you! Go bolt some limestone somewhere.
Aug 21, 2012
Talked to Rob C. who says he put in the bolts summer '88 for Rosy. Mystery solved. He also did a huge effort to upgrade belay anchors and replace 1/4" lead bolts that year (way before it was vogue).
Mar 20, 2012
Here's my contribution to "where did the bolts come from discussion." My memory is a bit fuzzy, but I seem to remember a debate in the late '80s/early '90s about a route going in that went straight up from the start of Rosy Crucifixion. The FA party placed a bolt that was also clippable from the start of Rosy. I seem to remember Rob Candelaria being involved in the new route and the name was tentatively called 'Plastic Jesus', but in doing a bit of research, it appears that Plastic Jesus is a variation to the third, not first, pitch of Rosy and it was done by Roger Briggs and not Rob Candelaria. Hmmm. Too bad about the bolts being added. Back in the day, you just went for it from the start to the horizontal crack. Of course, that was back when only Real(TM) men went climbing:-)
Mar 20, 2012
I moved to Boulder in 1995 and did the route twice with no bolts on P1 before it was retro-bolted. I recorded notes (in autumn of 1996 according to my climbing journal) on the opening moves were on the offset nut placed to protect the moves, as there was no such bolt. I had thought that the current bolts were ACE approved retros, but I must admit, I searched the archives for info and could not find it. The best data I have indicates that the bolts were not there in 1996 when I climbed it with Taimi and in early 1997 when I did it with Dianne but sprouted some time prior to spring of Y2K when I did the route with Joseffa Meir for the first time with the bolts there. You do agree that those are nice new (< 15 years old) bolts, right? You will note Larry Hamilton's post here that there were no bolts on the route originally (his FFA with Erickson) and another who mentions no bolts in the '80s. Also, Rossiter's 1989 Boulder Climbs South fails to mention bolts on P1, but then again so does his Y2K book (written 1999?). So, this raises a very interesting point, when exactly when did they go in and by what process?
Dec 20, 2011
I started climbing this in the early '90s, and I'm pretty sure there were bolts on the first pitch then and since....
Dec 19, 2011
That's really odd. I won't say what rack you did or didn't climb the route on, and I won't say how hard it was for you... but I can tell you that you didn't clip a "first bolt" on it 18 years ago. There were not any bolts on it in 1993... or 1994 or 1995 or 1996... I am not sure when they arrived.
Dec 18, 2011
It was 18 years ago that I climbed this route, and I think I only remember two fixed pieces on the first pitch and none anywhere else. After clipping the bolt as the start of the route, I don't remember it feeling run out at all. I don't remember the climb being any harder than .10a which it was rated at the time. We climbed it with a rack consisting of nuts, a number 8 hex, a brown Lowe tri-cam, a blue Metolius TCU, and a red and yellow Camalot, because that was all I could afford at the time. I climbed almost everything I did in Boulder with that rack. However I lived in Eldo Springs for 3 years and climbed in the canyon daily, so I think my perception of both grading and boldness was off. I've since revisited the canyon and much of the stuff I found pedestrian, seemed much harder. This was one of my first leads in the low ten range and remains something I cherish.
Dec 16, 2011
Finally got on Rosy yesterday. As far as clipping the first bolt, I'm 6' with a +1 index and could not quite reach it from the ledge. After some fidgeting around, I stepped up, locked off with my left on a pretty good crimper, and clipped that sucker. Once you get off that ridiculously pointy crimp above the first bolt, it's jugs through the traverse. Don't dawdle like I did. Strenuous, but not too bad once you commit. My belayer was also spraying me down with beta en route, so I'm sure that helped, too. No individual move is harder than 10a, but the pump factor.... Purple/gray/blue Mastercams for the 2nd half of the traverse can be placed pretty much at will. I followed p2 and rather than doing the somewhat greasy layback to get through the crux. I found some delightful face climbing just to the left of the crack. Somewhat balancy, but all there for sure. P3; Don't F2 on your belayer. 8, 8+ up to the first available pro. Pretty chill to the traverse bolt after that. Big move to a big jug with shiddy feet, slam in a (or 3 like me) small cam (0.4 c4ish) and finish it up. Ascent/descent: 4th class it up past Suparete (stash your bags on this ledge) from the Redgarden trail rather than doing the ramp. Easy 5th class kinda down a chimney, and then up a column to get to the actual start once you get to the base of Ruper. Vertigo raps and down the trail to end up at your packs.
Aug 10, 2011
I agree w/David above, definitely feel the crux on p2 is technically harder than that of p1 - especially how polished it's gotten. I'll lead p1 again, but have yet felt comfortable enough on that section of p2 to take it on. Interestingly, one time while seconding I got suckered into those huecos right of the p2 crux, couldn't get back into the route because the step across was too slick, and instead headed right and then up and across. Nice option, but no pro to speak of and the rock is suspect in places - but still easier than the on-route option (9 vs 10).
Sep 27, 2010
I first attempted this classic in the olden days before the bolts. I cast off and managed to combine the first 2 pitches. My partner, much shorter than I, could not follow the 1st move. Tension made things worse and there was no communication. I eventually lowered and cleaned to the 1st belay, untied and pulled the rope and retied. I then reversed and cleaned the traverse. Pumped, I chose to leave a biner and lower off the first manky pin rather than reverse the first move. Best not to push your second on this climb.
Sep 17, 2010
As of yesterday, we did not see the two fixed wires on the traverse after the bolts mentioned by Hamlet73. I placed a #0 and a #00 C3 after the second bolt, and we felt the traverse was well-protected since I could reach the first bolt. We called P1 5.10a, both of us would say the second pitch is technically harder, maybe 10b. I got suckered into the face holds out right on P2 since the chalk stopped abruptly in the crack, DOH! We used the Vertigo rappel anchors which worked pretty well: On the third pitch my partner ran it out to the tree on the upper ramp which is a stellar shady belay. We stayed roped up, but you can solo from here to the top of the ramp and look down the notch at the top and spot a two bolt anchor. Exposed scramble, or just stay roped up to get to the anchors, rappel west exactly 25 meters over a big overhang to another two bolt anchor that is hard to see from above. Over another big overhang to the ledge below rapping off the ends of our 50m rope we dropped 2 inches to the ledge. Change shoes, walk off to the north where it connects to the access trail.
Aug 8, 2010
Tony could not help it, he was condescendent as usual. I was by no mean suggesting to change bolt position nor add more bolts. I was simply and generously posting a creative solution to safely climb a WELL DOCUMENTED decking situation on pitch 1 of this specific climb. If only useful betas would be posted on those forums and comments, mp.com would be pleasant to visit.
Jun 24, 2010
"The first bolt is too far to the right and too high. As I said, I am 5 foot 8. I could not reach even less clip the first bolt without committing to a decking fall. I can't imagine what it must be for smaller people that are barely 5 feet tall. It is unfair to them. Clipping the first bolt was not cool but we were creative." You may or may not understand the charter of the FHRC, but they/you/I can't just go plugging bolts in anywhere/everywhere, as it is not acceptable to the larger community to retrobolt routes. The guidance and charter of the A.C.E. FHRC is to replace and maintain existing anchors when necessary, add anchors under certain justifications, and review (and generally approve) new lines. They can't just slap in a bolt lower for convienience. It wasn't put higher to be unfair, it was put higher because that is where a pin once was--- which is the only justification for having the bolt at all. You can read Larry Hamilton's recall of the FA a few comments above this one for a better history and understanding. The first time I did Rosy Cruxifixtion (there WAS NO BOLT or pin, but you can get a stopper roughly where the pin was) was with Taimi Metzlers, who is 5'2" and managed to get up there. Since then I've followed Dianne Connelly. She is 5'3" and she did fine because she was ready for that sort of climb. Since then among the verious times I've done it, at least once was with Joseffa, who lead the first two as a single pitch without the bolts. She's 5'5". I don't want to sound elitist, but one of the possible points of view then available is that that retrobolt should thus be removed and thus eliminate the fairness problem such that all people can get up there and place the stopper like we did for a decades... before someone got a permit to add a bolt under an erronious justification that a *good* pin had once been right there. As it stands, you figured out how to manage it and without making the route 'pedestrian' and changing it's nature still properly managed the risk within your acceptabile limits. And that's an achievement in climbing terms.
Jun 17, 2010
Both of us felt 5.10c/d is more appropriate than 5.10a. I agree with 5.10c if you are 6 foot tall (my partner is). If you are smaller like 5 foot 8 as I am, it is about 5.10d in my opinion. Say, you know the moves from a prior ascent. Only then you would feel a little closer to 5.10a. But def not 5.10a for an onsight. The first bolt is too far to the right and too high. As I said, I am 5 foot 8. I could not reach even less clip the first bolt without committing to a decking fall. I can't imagine what it must be for smaller people that are barely 5 feet tall. It is unfair to them. Clipping the first bolt was not cool but we were creative. A Stiffy or a 2 feet long wooden stick as a stick clip I would encourage to use. Conveniently, there was a used up 2 feet long stick where the belayer sits. We had no shame what so ever at using it! :) I forgot if this was said or not, but I vaguely remember someone mentioning this possibility without having actually done it. Here it goes: As far as the rappel from the bolted anchor atop pitch 2, I confirm that two 70 m ropes, tied up together, reach the ground with the stretch without having to downclimb the slab. It brings you back to your pack safely! My partner dragged the 2nd rope to the top of pitch 2. But there is no need for that. Secure the rope on the bolts. Lower your partner to the ground from the bolts atop pitch 2. The climber on the ground ties up the ropes together, the climber up on the wall hauls it up through the chain links and now has a two ropes rappel to the ground. What a super classic this route is. With creativity, safe route overall, well protected.
Jun 17, 2010
BTW, found an interesting rap sequence with a single 60m rope that can get you back to the start of the climb. From the bolt anchors at the top of P2 the first person raps down almost to the slings at the end of P1. Look left and you will see a bolt with a single link (one of the bolts on Predator). Easily pendulum over to that bolt, clip a draw onto it and through the rope. Rap down a little more and you can easily "pull yourself" over to the 2nd bolt of Rosy, clip a draw into that and through the rope. This will position the first rappeler above the ramp right below the start of the climb. Scramble up the ramp and set up a "belay" (tie the ends of the rope into the "belay anchor"). The 2nd person now raps down, unclips the bolts (kind of reversing) the sequence, and the 1st person can "pull" the rappeler onto the ramp. As always -- make sure the ends of the ropes are well knotted. Rappeling is dangerous, etc.
Apr 19, 2010
I think P2 is as-hard or harder than p1 on this climb. Dead vertical, it's hard to get a good rest stance, and the moves are technical. I failed at placing adequate gear and took a 25 footer (cam in flaring crack failed). Thank goodness I did not take out my belayer in the process. Be careful out there folks!
Jul 6, 2009
I have done the route yesterday, and currently the webbing at the first belay is not in great shape. It might need to be replaced soon. There are also two fixed nuts on the traverse on the first pitch, both after the second bolt. They seem in good condition and we clipped them both. Great route.
Jul 6, 2009
I don't think there's any move harder than 10a on the first pitch. Bring 2 blue Aliens and you can pretty much sew up P1. Exciting climb!
Nov 23, 2008
Followed entire route. Leader linked first two pitches and belayed from top of P2, putting long slings on pro near the first anchor. Felt comfortable to be belayed this way. As others have said, since I was fortunate enough to be able to focus just on the climbing and not on my nerves, P1 felt like 10a.
Sep 28, 2008
The first pitch felt 5.10+, perhaps it was the traverse and exposure. I would hesitate to rate this 5.10a, I thought it felt 5.10c for sure. Agreed, a strong second is advised, otherwise a fall would result in one hell of a swing. In my opinion, it is just as difficult for the leader as it is for the second. I followed the second pitch, and, must say, was thoroughly worked. I thought leading the first pitch was scary and committing, this climb was good for the head. We rappelled using 2 sixty meter ropes.
Sep 27, 2008
I finally led the first two pitches (as a single pitch) of Rosy today, and got them clean. I had been wanting to come back and lead these pitches since having followed both (as a single pitch) clean in June, 2006. The lead felt harder than the follow even though I have climbed, and improved, a good bit since 6/6. The initial moves before you clip the first bolt are 5.10a I've concluded since, when I followed them I could judge them objectively, and they felt like 5.10a. When I led them today they felt like 5.10d because, no matter what anyone says here, if you blow the first clip you are f*cked (and so is your belayer, BTW, unless you have built a bomb-proof anchor), and $hit feels harder when the consequences are dire if you blow it. You can totally shake out and decompress at the first anchor (without dogging on the anchor, of course) before taking on the second pitch, which felt easier to me this time (compared to the first pitch it was a cinch). Anyway, re: grading this route, the real, objective, crux is after the second bolt, on that long stem to the horizontal finger seam. If you factor sustained difficulty into your grading then this route is harder than 5.10a. This lead was bloody hard. This is all just my opinion--others may have a completely different experience.
Sep 13, 2007
Led this route yesterday with doubles, and it worked great. One rope for the traverse and the other rope for the vertical crack. No drag at all. C3s work well to protect the latter part of the traverse. Rosy is a great climb with fun exposure! Link it up!
Aug 5, 2007
Traverses scare me, Rosy was no exception. The Vertigo rap anchors around the tree have been removed. I sat there confused, but after a few minutes, I turned around and saw the new rappel bolts.
Oct 1, 2006
Jack, As for the grade, it sounds like this route must be your style. I've free soloed Tagger and I think this route is harder and I wouldn't try it. There's no good rest to hang out and recover. However, I happen to agree with your apparent opinion that the bolts don't belong. The route has already been brought down a few standards by them. I don't sport climb much either... Unless (R) stands for "RETROBOLTED" we can safely remove that designation from this climb.
Jul 4, 2006
It sounds like a bunch of whining. This route is a classic 10a. And it's an EASY 5.10!! It isn't even close to the pump or technical level as Tagger, Outer Space or Super Slab. Protection is always good, especially since the placement of the bolts and a stick clip is not needed. Just suck it up for a couple of feet and clip the bolt. You guys have been sport climbing WAYYYYYYY too much. Don't bring the climbing down to your standards just get better.
Jul 3, 2006
A little more historical perspective--I was along on the FFA and have photos of Jim leading the traverse which I'll try to post soon. Unfortunately I ran out of film and don't have any shots of the upper pitches. It was definitely more exciting without the bolts!
May 14, 2006
I think this pitch is 10c - my nemesis grade at Eldo. Definitely 10c if you combine the first and second pitches, which I recommend for the challenge and the great belay at the top of the second pitch. I think this pitch is considerably harder than other 10c Eldo pitches like Outer Space and Tagger. I also think it's harder than the last pitch of Superslab (10d).
Jan 27, 2006
Incredible climb: cool moves, impeccable stone and the exposure rocks! I know this is probably really obvious, but it seemed important to me to build some sort of anchor on the ramp below the start of the first pitch. I found a nice v thread and there is also a good place to thread a stopper. If the leader blows the clip and falls, (s)he's going for the big ride and taking the belayer with them. Just something to keep in mind.
Dec 27, 2005
No need for a stick to clip the first bolt. Look 5' to the left of the start and you'll see a bomber slot for a big stopper (#8 rock or so).
Sep 28, 2005
There should be a wooden stick in the cave at the beginning of pitch 1. You can use it to stick-clip the first bolt - the beginning moves are a lot trickier than it seems. Oh and make sure you're very clear on how you're going to descend.
Sep 26, 2005
I agree with Guy's comment about the #2 (yellow) Camalot on p2. Rossiter's guide says take gear to a #2 Friend, which is much too small for that placement.I don't think the route warrants an "s" with the current two bolts on p1. I placed three Aliens (black, blue, green) and a great stopper on the traverse. I'm 5'8" and I could stretch to clip the first bolt before leaving the large foothold.We rapped from the tree up and left of the finish to the belay at the end of p1. Then another rap (2 60m ropes required) back to the ground.
Aug 11, 2005
Climbed this route again the other day, and finished with Alice In Bucketland - a full day and highly recommended! As I had remembered, the opening sequence on the first pitch, getting to and past the first bolt, is technically the most challenging. But you can't get anxious as you get closer to the wall, you have to look for and find all the holds... you can't miss anything on this pitch or you'll pay for it.
Jun 7, 2005
I was scrambling around behind the big block below the first pitch of this route, and found a soiled pair of boxers and a cut sling. Being a good eldo citizen, I had the 'privilege' of packing this detritus out. Although messing one's shorts at the base of Rosy is a perfectly natural reaction, please be considerate of others and this amazing place...
Apr 4, 2005
I usually struggle on the last moves up the crack on P2. But last time I did it, I saw from above that there were good holds on the face to the right of the top of the crack. My second, Luke, followed that way quite easily, bypassing the last moves up the crack. So next time that's how I intend to do it.
Aug 2, 2004
I had more problems on the 2nd pitch than the first. I think it is really helpful to be tall for the moves before the first bolt and after the second. A #2 Camalot is useful on the 2nd pitch, right before the tricky lieback section at the top. A .3 Camalot or equivalent protects the slopey top out to the belay ledge.
Aug 2, 2004
Ernie and Larry, thanks for the additional historical perspective. By the time Rocky Heights was published, Rosy's reputation was far tamer than that. I don't know if there were different pins by that time, but I know that Rosy was often one of the first multi-pitch 5.10's that climbers would go after while progressing through the number grades (it was my 2nd 5.10). I guess climbers had more blind faith in those pins back then. Circa 1980, Rosy was certainly not a climb where you felt that a no-falls ascent was mandatory -- on any given weekend (given the sandbag rating in Rocky Heights) you would see climbers hanging on those pins. And as Larry mentioned, there was a pin you could clip after just stepping off the ramp -- similar to the first bolt now. I never heard of anyone getting hurt because of pins popping. So my argument was that the character of the route back then was not that much different than with the bolts now. But based on Ernie account of Erickson's FFA, the rigid ACE philosophy dictates the bolts *and* pins should have never been placed. If so, this route would be relegated to hardman obscurity.
Jun 7, 2004
In the early-middle 70s there were 3 fixed pieces on the traverse: (1) a doubtful blade that could be clipped just after you made the first moves off the ramp; (2) a terrible ring-angle, driven parallel to the rock surface along the long diagonal (down-to-right) crack, only its tip biting, with a ratty rope sling attached; and (3) a newer angle in a horizontal crack in the tiny corner that marks the end of the crux. You clipped (3) with a sigh of relief, because it was the first one that looked like it might hold a fall. (1) and (2) were the only protection for the exciting part of the pitch, though. A cover photo in Climbing (May-June 1975) shows the exact locations of this gear.So, logistically Rosy was like a sport route, in being mainly a clip-up (just a few nuts needed higher up); but the psychology was different.
Jun 5, 2004
When Erickson freed this in '70, he told me that he put a stopper/runner just above the now 1st pin and motored down and right into easier ground totally unprotected. He also showed me the rope burn scars on his shoulder, bicep, and forearm from a fall Steve Wood took on that last move in that upper corner of P2, as JE was hip belaying from that micro ledge...
Jun 4, 2004
The climb is a great climb and is certainly one of the hardest 10a's around. From my point of view it is the '4-alarm fire of sandbags.' The climbing is unique, but I must admit, the character of this route has CERTAINLY been changed by the bolts. It is now more of a standard route, and less of something to aspire to. It is a good example of bad retro-bolting.
May 23, 2004
Charles, with all due respect, you're a psycho. I never really paid much attention to the comments here until I actually climbed it. Leaders, protect your second PLEASE. The bolts ain't enough... I was WAY freaked out to unclip the second bolt, but that's just because I'm a big pus after falling two weeks ago. Pump factor nine if you link P2 and 3 together. Also, if you have an extraordinarily long 60m rope, make SURE you find the center and rap the three pitches down to P1 slings. From here you can just BARELY make it to the cold-shut midway up the 5.0 ramp approach. You pass it on the way up attached to a piton. Your party would do well to simul-rap here because it stretches the rope a bit more, but make sure there are knots at the ends! Maybe a bit of swinging is necessary, but its BARELY possible. Puts you right at the gear you leave at the bottom of the ramp as well... VERY hard for a 5.10a and that's coming from two hard 10 leaders. It'll be awhile before I come back to this one. I'm heading off to Yellow...Cheers!~Wm
May 21, 2004
[Did this route again today.. What a great route. However the webbing and rap anchor and the start of the first pitch have been removed. No more rapping if one [chickens] on the first moves. Also the webbing on the belay anchor at the end of the first pitch looks like someone has cut through most of it with a knife. I would not trust a belay on it or rappel. Sabitoge I tell you. If you find yourself in this situation clip in to the fixed stoppers. Also bring 1 or 2 extra metolius 0 TCUs. You can use them toback up the fixed anchors. If anyone knows why the webbing was removed for the start of this climb please let us know. Also, I heard rumors of bolts going in at the fixed anchor belay. Is there any truth in that?]
May 10, 2004
There is a no hands rest right after the first bolt. A sideways kneebar with the right leg, left foot inside edged on good foot-hold, let go and contemplate the business. If this route were at Shelf it would be 11b.
Feb 4, 2004
You can get some good ballnutz after the 2 bolts. A #4 is particularly helpful. A green alien is too big for this section. The crux is definitely the head games while you pump out fiddling with gear after the bolts, staring back at a big swing. I doubt it's technically harder than 10- if you find the good foothold down low before the stem after the second bolt.
Nov 10, 2003
Yes, you were very lucky AC...count your blessings... I'm not saying every person who falls there is going to the hospital... but it looked dangerous enough that my partner & I took note. And it wouldn't be the distance you fell either (about 6') if you did peel reaching for the first clip, but the surface and angle of the ramp you'd hit (grooved, irregular, down sloping, and hard), that could potentially injure an ankle/hip/elbo. Accidents can happen anywhere...all I'm saying is this first clip has POTENTIAL for a bad day at Eldo...Just be warned before wandering all the way up there, if you aren't quite sure of your (10a) leading ability...There is a small wire placement in the lower left corner at the start to prevent tumbling down the ramp too far in the event of a fall, but it won't keep you from decking...relax, have fun, and be careful up there.
Aug 1, 2003
On my lead of it, I did fall from my stance before clipping the first bolt due to my hand buttering off that incredibly slick, super chalked up and kind of calcified-smooth hold you are referring to. I crashed onto the ramp feet first, but because the ramp slopes so much I immediately tumbled onto my side, which I think may have saved me from an ankle/foot injury. Banged me up a little, but I got right back on and finished without incident. I may have just gotten lucky, but I didn't think the fall was that hard.
Aug 1, 2003
Jumped on this today for the first time...following each pitch. The start is nothing like I envisioned from reading the beta...you can't just reach up and clip the 1st bolt from the ledge if you are tall (I'm 5'11") before you make the (10a) move... you have to launch up to a near vertical stance, using a slopey left hand crimper and a high angling right hand crimper, then release the right hand, shift weight right and reach high for the clip, while relying on the tenuous left hand and a decent left foot placement to hold you in place. Very balancey... In other words, you have to do the (10a) move, unprotected, to reach the first clip. The consequence of a lead fall here, would not be pretty (probably a rescue, trip to the hospital, and broken bones). Following the start is no problem... Following the first half of P1 isn't too bad either, but once you unclip that second bolt, it gets dicey. As George mentioned above, you can't get off your arms, their pumped, but there's no feet there, so you must step down to a nubbin, and work over and reach for a good corner horizontal seam. Make sure you leader protects the corner well. I felt the most exposure here...Very sequencey...got spanked... P2 & P3 are exciting, classic pitches, of hard, near vertical (9) climbing that will challenge you every inch of the way. Doesn't get much better than this in Eldo...
Jul 31, 2003
Just did this climb yesterday after doing the first three pitches of Ruper. Would have to say it was one of the best days I've had in Eldo! The crux on Rosy is short and well protected with two bolts at the start--or, maybe it is pulling the ropes after rapping off. Great climb and I would agree that the rating is about right. FYI: someone may want to throw up some rings or chains at the end of P1--the slings are starting to fray all over...
Jul 8, 2003
I just did this route for the first time in 25 years, and I found myself wondering, "Why didn't I get back to this sooner?" It is a beautiful climb. The crux for the leader, though, is not the moves themselves, but hanging out to place gear to protect your second. If your limit is 10-, you will find this a worthy challenge--harder than most other climbs for the same grade. Best to do pitches 1 and 2 in one lead, so that you will not hit your belay partner if you fall off pitch 2. Use lots of long slings. And have fun! It doesn't get any better than this.
Jun 28, 2003
Definitely a great climb. Kind of intimidating with all the exposure but go for it! A purple (#0) TCU fits the horizontal finger crack after the crux perfectly and takes a little fear out of the last couple moves to the anchor. Also, might help to bring a long sling or two to back up the existing anchor after pitch one. Some of those slings are starting to look pretty ratty. You can descend down The Naked Edge with one rope if you use the first pitch anchors on T2, but watch for parties below. Send it!
Jul 30, 2002
I led this route recently and agree with those who feel that it is pretty difficult for 10.a, even in Eldo. I combined the 1st two pitches on double ropes clipping the second rope only to gear on pitch 2. This provided more than adequate protection for the second. This is one of the best pitches I've ever done in Eldo but caution anyone who is at their limit on 10.
May 21, 2002
My friend is 5'9" and had no problem clipping the first bolt without committing to the wall, just stretch. 10a is about right. It may be crimpy, but all the crimps are big and positive, and your feet are huge if you stem correctly.
Apr 27, 2002
If pitches 1 & 2 are combined and led on double ropes with one rope being clipped only to pro on 2nd pitch, how is the protection for the second? Big swing
Jan 25, 2002
Rosy's is 5.10. Maybe easy 10 if you're tall, or hard 10 if your short, but it's still 5.10. I think rather than get hung up in the subgrades (a,b,c,d) climbers should concerns themselves more with the gear, because that is where the real danger lies on this route. Although the bolts protect the leader on P1, he must place gear after the crux to protect the second (I found a #7 WC nut worked well, or small TCU) from a nasty sideways fall. The 5.9 pitches are a bit run out as well, and so I wouldn't recommend this route to anyone who doesn't feel solid onsighting 5.10 (-or+).
Aug 1, 2001
I did this climb this morning and led P1 & P3. I am a short dude (5'7") and am primarily a crack climber. I don't know that I could give P1 a 10c, (no offense to those giving it that rating). Let's call it 10- (a/b). I would say that for a short pitch, however, you get your money's worth. This was a really nice and unique route. Additionally, the "s" rating is questionable - just pay attention to what you're doing and stay relaxed when you go to clip the first bolt.
Jun 10, 2001
I did this route with George on 3/4 and it is not 10a. Not even for Eldo. I talked with Jim Erickson (first person to free this route) and he thinks it is 10c (though he rated it 5.9+ back then). Id say 10c/d if you combine the first two pitches (recommended because of the nice belay atop pitch 2, but PUMPY!) It seems harder than Tagger (10c), Superslab (10d), and Disappearing Act (11a). Maybe after getting it wired, it would seem easier, but thats tough to do since you have to climb all three pitches to try the first pitch again. Great route, though! Technical, devious, and very continuous.
Jan 1, 2001
I have to agree with everyone here, it feels accurately rated at about .10c, the 9+ second pitch is definately not a giveaway either as it is pretty much overhanging and not the best gear towards the top, a clean fall right onto your belayer! Taller people have an easier time with this I think, at the crux I always climb higher than most people to avoid the stem which I don have the leg reach for. An excellent route that should not be missed though!
Jan 1, 2001
I've done this route probably 25 times, and it is my favorite 5.10- in Boulder. Im 6' tall and it feels like 5.10a to me. I first climbed Rosy in 1980 when there were no bolts--just some rusty old pins with ratty slings all over the place. The bolts have cleaned it up and made it much more enjoyable and safer. I think the very first move is as hard as any other move on the route, including the long step down in the middle of the traverse. I've always linked the first and second pitches in one. Rosy is definitely an Eldorado classic, and is, in my opinion, one of the best 5.10 routes anywhere--right up there with Figures and Solid Gold in Joshua Tree.
Jan 1, 2001
here is an attempt to describe how to get to the first pitch: from the top of the lower Ramp, just before you get to Ruper et al, head right over some blocks to a short easy dihedral/pillar. Go up that (easy 5th), then down the other side to a sloping ramp that leads down to the start of the route (which is indeed a fantastic route!).
Jan 1, 2001
Young Doug - Ahhh Mr Escalar was the first to mention the step down..there is a little nubbin halfway across just at the lip you can stand on if you can find it! it eliminates the need for a long stem! Sorry...didn mean to spew beta, but if you read this you are looking for it!
Jan 1, 2001
I did this route yesterday (3/4/01) for the second time. I have always found this route difficult for the 10a rating. The first pitch is very crimpy and if your finger strength goes you are history. It is also very sequency and there is no place to get off your arms. One tip - if you are 6 ft or over, you can clip the first bolt before you commit to the wall. It is just barely possible.
Jan 1, 2001
- Scratch and Sniff
When I first led this climb in 1989, the hold at the lip of the roof was better and clipping the 2nd bolt was not so bad. I returned in 1995, after Ken Trout replaced the bolts that had been chopped in the 1989 bolt war. The handhold at the lip had partially broken off leaving a smaller, worse hold and a harder, scary clip. I recommend prehanging a long sling on this bolt so it can be clipped from under the roof. A long extension pole is needed. It really needs another bolt added in the ceiling. I also place a green Alien in a horizontal seam above the last bolt & a couple RPs in the corner before the anchor. A medium stopper (#9?) works before 1st bolt or stick clip.
Apr 2, 2013
Actually four bolts, and a finger-sized cam would protect the move to the first bolt.
Dec 8, 2012
Mark R. and I did the FA in the late '80s right before we went up to Mt. Hooker.
Dec 7, 2009
You can easily toprope this route, although I recommend leading it. TR'ing it spoils the mild spice factor.
Jul 26, 2005
- Seams Beyond
Finally got to this one, what a nice pitch! Not much gear, but the holds are all incut and mostly solid. A good finish to many different routes, including After the Gold Rush and Love Minus Zero. Probably only 2/4 stars by itself, but inevitably you climbed something good to get here, and the position is killer. -Scott
Nov 14, 2012
Sounds fun, good job! I'll have to check it out.
Sep 22, 2010
- Seams Beyond Variation
John Baldwin and I did this exact line back in the early '90s (1994 ?). Even back then, we were sure this had been done before more than a few times. Just because it's not in Levin's guidebook does not mean it's never been done. Peace, Steve Sangdahl
Jun 15, 2015
- Seize of Holds
- Serpent, The
Make sure you bring extra underclings for the second pitch, it's fantastic! P1 and P2 are easily combined with a 60m.
Nov 12, 2009
Take care with the crucial blocky-tower section before turning the corner/roof 20 feet up the first pitch -- the blocks seem to have gotten looser over the three times I've done this section (during the past six years or so). In particular, the key right-hand undercling at the bottom of the tower seems solid until you pull up into it, at which point it definitely wiggles. Use this with care, and be sure to place as much and as good pro as you can before you start this whole sequence -- a small slot a foot or two below is the best bet. (We used a green Alien most recently.) Someday that whole pile is going to disappear. Still.... it's a great pitch!
Apr 28, 2004
First pitch run-out only adds to the stoke!!!
Feb 8, 2004
Tony- I agree there is a great deal of non-descript terrain in the upper reaches between Upper Ruper and T2. Having climbed several "exit" pitches for climbs in this vicinity, I consider most of the rock up there not really worth climbing, let alone demarcating into named "routes" or "variations". I'm sure people have wandered all over up there in past years.
Apr 29, 2003
Did this again on Saturday and have some notes. #1) a bolt has been added at the top of the first pitch. You can climb to this, but as the "backup" gear next to it is poor, I still wouldn't want to belay off of it. #2) One guy took a grounder off of this route at the 5.9+ crux when a piece or two popped. The initial gear is not that great, be advised to place much/often. He walked away & I ran into him climbing Sunday. #3) The first two pitches combined total 33 meters of climbing, and could be rapped off of after completion with a single 60m due to the angle of the climb moving left, where the ramp below is higher than the start of the climb by a considerable amount. #4) I completed what I am confident is a new 3rd pitch to this route- about 50m of mostly new climbing, although Shasta does mingle with the line for a short period. I referred to this line as Fresca (5.10, R) As I am more informed of the relationship between these two lines and also between Shasta and the 'terra incognita' I described in my write up of Serpent a few years ago, I'll try to post a clear description.
Apr 28, 2003
I led all the pitches of this route yesterday and thought that they were spectacular although I must admit that the [first] pitch scared me silly. I usually enjoy routes at the 5.9s/5.8vs level and sometimes even solo at this grade but for some reason this route had me whimpering like a puppy who just got caught peeing on the floor. I was extremely relieved to reach the crux where I could clip a good bolt and it almost felt as if the hard part was over. I found it rather ironic that the crux is about the safest part of the entire route. I combined the 1st two pitches and would definitely [recommend] doing it this way because the gear at the optional belay looked poor at best. I did a variation on my second pitch where I stayed in the dihedral at the start (fun 5.9) because the rock to the left looked very friable then I continued in the dihedral/corner system past the normal blind traverse, moved a bit left then back right through a strenuous overhang and traversed straight right to the tree (5.10). From the tree it is just barely possible to reach the top with a 60m rope. This is a really good route that requires a bit of every technique including serious mind control.......
Jun 27, 2002
Large Tri-cams will fit in some of the pockets on the first pitch if you're so inclined.
Nov 1, 2001
- Shasta
The first two pitches are dirty and contrived. Climbing the route with a wire brush is still a good suggestion. The top pitch is excellent, 5.8 R, it predates Shasta and is better accessed from the Serpent to the right.
Oct 12, 2015
I finally went and did the line in its entirety... I think. The second pitch I started and finished on as described, but I pretty much did the line up the arete just right of P2 of Ruper. I am not sure that was right. Good climbing though- could use some more cleaning/brushing in spots. P1: 5.9, PG-13 P2: 5.10a, S/VS P3: 5.9-, S It seems to me this climb is presently at its prime as an adventure climb, where the route is still relatively unknown and nebulous, but known to exist and climbable in its present state. Aliens probably would have worked better than the micro-Camalots I had, which are too broad and finicky for the rough and uneven placements that might have been better with other cams. As such, I encountered 60' runouts on the P2/P3. Which, may I add, can be run together for a single 68meter pitch with some good sling work, or simply run out like crazy. I will reiterate that this is not your average 'S' route. It is not new-age 'S' whereas there is simply no bolt above your head at the crux. This is old-school 'S.' Falling from the crux would be bad. Falling from other places would cripple you or kill you. This is a climb for a seasoned stone master, not an early career goal.
Apr 1, 2007
It's hard to believe that such an obvious and stellar corner so close to Ruper has escaped detection for so long. After following the 2nd pitch crux and the break that Steve mentions, I served as a bit of a crash-test-dummy and was unwittingly lured by Andy onto a bulging headwall covered in potato-chip-sized lichen flakes. This way goes directly from the break to the hanging left-facing corner and travels over compact rock with very technical movement- probably 5.11. If there was any gear at all on this section, Shasta would be a 3-star classic.-Don Bushey
May 5, 2003
The climb is named after my wife's golden retriever, Shasta, who as a puppy lived with an older golden retriever named Ruper, named such because his owner was benighted on Upper Ruper shortly before he got his dog. I thought it fitting that Shasta and Ruper should be side-by-side in Eldorado, a place they both enjoyed very much.
Apr 29, 2003
Despite its newness this line it is getting traffic, though I have not done it yet. I saw Andy Donson and Don Bushey on it last weekend and this weekend I snagged the line to it's right and crossed it for a while. It's pretty well chalked up and clear for at least a short section. I completed what I am confident is a mostly new pitch from the 2nd belay of Serpent which intersects this climb from the right about 1/2 way up the wall and continues up and left to cross Shasta- about 50M of mostly new climbing, although Shasta does mingle with the line for a short period. I referred to this line as Fresca (5.10, R). As I am more informed of the relationship between these two lines and also between Shasta and the 'terra incognita' I decsribed in my write up of Serpent a few years ago, I'll try to post a clear description. I will add this to the site as Fresca, as it will be referred to from 3 different routes and I'd like to put the info in one place.
Apr 28, 2003
I did this climb last Friday with Bill Briggs. He has already done it four times! He thinks this climb is 3-stars, but I agree with Steve: 2-stars. And even that probably depends on the climbing getting a bit cleaner. The first two pitches are both S+ in my opinion. The first part of the first pitch is protected great, but the finish is runout and that is the hardest climbing. The pro here is a bit tricky and I think you should be a 5.10 leader to do this pitch safely.The 2nd pitch has a big runout after the technical crux, but even the crux is protected by tiny Aliens of dubious quality. That said, I really enjoyed the climb. It is fun covering some near ground and this makes a nice alternative way off from the Upper Ramp. We also found a better way off the summit of T1. Instead of downclimbing part of the last pitch, head down the exact opposite side (mostly to the north) and you'll find big holds just when you need them. This downclimb is probably only 5.2 or so and not nearly as exposed as downclimbing the last pitch. Thanks to Steve and Bill for this fun new route.
Apr 14, 2003
- Sickness Unto Death
5 years and no comments! No waiting lines here!
Jun 2, 2014
- Slots of Fun
- Slow Train Coming
Thanks for the rebolting job - this is an AWESOME route that deserves a lot more attention! Very well protected throughout (not too spicy at all), and all you need are draws (might want long runners on the 1st and 2nd bolt). The crux is distinctly at the 3rd bolt, but the climbing is fun and engaging throughout with crisp edges on bullet clean rock. If you've already done that first pitch of the Edge a dozen times, get on this - a fantastic panel of rock that is a completely different style of climbing than the Naked Edge. Also, not much slab climbing on this one, more thin, positive edging... very enjoyable.
Sep 29, 2016
Nice rebolting job, Lisa. Actually, that's not a Leeper hanger but an HME (Hughston Mountain Equipment) hanger. You can identify it versus a Leeper by the large carabiner hole. HME hangers are very strong.
May 23, 2016
Route update: the 8 old lead bolts were replaced with 1/2" stainless 5-piece bolts. Per the approved ACE application, bolt 3 was moved slightly left and bolt 6 was moved down. Old 3/8" inch bolt with Leper hanger replaced with 1/2" 5-piece bolt. Link to application Thanks, ACE, for supplying the hardware. Consider donating at: Donate to ACE.
May 23, 2016
I´m not too sure about the bolt quality on this one. Rusty and old, the bolts aren´t confidence inspiring.
Jun 1, 2015
I did this years ago with Derek Hersey and Jon Grayson and none of us thought it was harder than 10+ (c/d). A small TCU can be used under a little overlap to make it a bit less 'spicy'. It's a little heretical being this close to P1 of the NE, but the climbing is nice.
Jul 5, 2010
Thin is in! The 'Slow Train' that is coming is the forearm pump if you are not wearing good edging shoes. Luckily it gets easier as you head up. I got rail-roaded today & finished with nothing left.
May 9, 2009
Beautiful face climbing! A little spicy on the easier rock on the second half of the pitch, but safe and enjoyable throughout.
Dec 21, 2004
- Superlink, The
- T2
If you picked up the green Alien from the base of T2/Jules Verne today, please contact me. I dropped it while cruxing on Jules Verne P4 and would be happy to reward you for its safe return.
Nov 13, 2016
The drilled piton at the start of P1 is actually epoxied and bomber. I tested the pin w/ a very large hammer (i.e., 5 lbs) and funkness, and it didn't so much as flinch. The eye is not cracked. Given the epoxy, replacing it with a bolt will be difficult as using a blow torch to melt the epoxy could damage the rock. I would be inclined to leave the pin alone until it shows signs that warrant replacement.
Feb 29, 2016
Had to leave gear on T2 Sunday because of weather. If whoever grabbed it is willing to give it back, please send me an email at zburns1980@yahoo. Thank you.
Sep 4, 2014
I did this right after successfully redpointing Guenese (11a). I felt this to be a tad harder, maybe due to the residual pump of Guenese, but maybe not. Great route regardless.
May 9, 2012
Hi Clint, been a long time since we've climbed together. The gear I referred to as "good" could maybe be better described as "good enough". With those "good enough" pieces at crux level, I think that move or two is protected just fine.
May 1, 2012
The Levin guide shows a good way to break up the upper pitches, unless you want to run together the two pitches from the upper ledge, which is reasonable, though rope drag could be an issue if you're not careful. I'm not sold on Dane's assertion that there's "good" gear to be had on that pitch until you pull onto the ledge. For the final 2 pitches, stay true to the strata you begin on, belay at a small tree, and finish it from there.
Sep 6, 2011
Hey Dane, I did this today and went all the way from the Upper Ramp through the finger crack and hand crack to a small ledge. I would have liked to go another 20 feet up as it looked like a nice ledge, but I was out of rope (60m with about 7m chopped off). I didn't think rope drag was too bad. Put a double length sling on the first pin, then sling everything else a lot. I didn't realize that ledge traverse was so long! It kind of detracts from the climbing. Next time I think I'll find a direct line to the top after the 8+ s pitch. Also the 2nd pitch (Jules Verne var.) was probably the nastiest pitch I have ever climbed. Stay away if you're smart!
May 28, 2011
How do people usually break up the upper pitches? I went off the upper ramp up the corner, across the traverse, and through the finger and hand crack to a small ledge. The rope drag was semi-horrific but doable. Do most set a belay in the corner before the traverse? On the rotten band pitch the gear wasn't as bad I was expecting. The pins are all crap, but I was able to get a good #3 Camalot below the third pin. You can also put a good wire or small cam in above the pin next to the last solid jug. I think that the good gear makes moves across the rotten rock above significantly less scary.
Mar 3, 2011
It has been a while since anyone commented on this; but...the pin was placed around '85 or '86 by Charlie Fowler to replace the Gerry Death Hanger that was there. I think at this point a real bolt is probably in order.
Apr 26, 2010
I'm glad that Erickson concluded that the start of this is considerably more difficult than the given 10d rating after the boulder washed away. I thought the moves off of the ramp and past the pin were mid 11 with bad fall potential if you blow the moves. The pin can be stick clipped from the ramp to protect the opening moves. One final note, Ivan's gear beta is down right ridiculous. It's going to do nothing to keep you from decking or getting injured. At best it will prevent your broken body from rolling down the ramp a few feet.
Oct 10, 2009
Hey... new to this site, so my post goes back to the first post... just an anecdote that my first time up T2 about 10 years ago I got to the rotten band, and did pretty much what the first poster mentions- heading left to avoid the rotten stuff, into difficult moves. There used to be a bent pin below this, but ended up with the pin about 15ft below me, I got into an awkward place I couldn't reverse, pumped silly by now, palms outward, no feet, slick rock, thank-God ledge in front of me, but out of reach.... I whipped taking a good 40-footer onto slabs below. My horrified belayer Joe Callahan, thought I'd smashed my (unhelmeted) head, but in the end, just smashed my wrist a little. And just 2 years ago, a youthful partner led the first pitch, blasting all the way to the upper ramp, out of earshot and sight. I started up, made it to the pin, unclipped it, was pumped silly again.... The rope hadn't moved, because it was stuck in a crack up high. Ended up pumped out, yelling up-rope! and more or less jumping back to the ground from the pin, only to have to do it all over again. Moral? take the usual belay atop pitch 1.
Sep 3, 2007
The pin on pitch 1 looked good to me, apart from the fact that it is sticking out a bit. Backing it up is...thoughtful. I will agree with everyone that the 3rd/4th pitches are especially beautiful! Really cool moves. Linking them would make for a fun long, sustained romp, but rope drag could be an issue. Regarding the 5th (9- rotten band) pitch, the traverse begins higher up than most people think, and there are definitely numerous potential starting spots. Don't commit to any until you see the pins; they're obvious. (See Ron Olsen powering up to the only rest on the steep "rotten band" pitch on upper T2. for a good indication of the starting point). Also, I wouldn't encourage Andrew's (12/21/01) advice of using any camming devices in that rock! As always in these "Eldo moments", passive gear is more appropriate. I placed a good nut and tri-cam. The last 2 pitches begin as 4th class, getting progressively more technical until they terminate above the Ruper territory at, say, 5.4. See Jim's comment (4/27/04) for considerations regarding summit options from the 9- section. Very cool! Enjoy!
Nov 23, 2006
If you have a good vertical you can still just dyno to the first big flake and do a single pull to holds below the pin. I think it's an easy jump, and I am not tall, but I do have a good vertical, so YMMV. This saves you the trouble of doing 4 or 5 hard moves and all that pesky hard-to-place gear. And I think it's easier too, though if you blow clipping the pin, you may break an ankle. But again, you just skipped the hard/pumpy moves, so you should be OK to get it. If you do it static from below, then yeah by all means, 5.11-, but at least it is on positive holds.
Oct 23, 2006
The start of T2 today is harder than 10d, even if it is just a highball boulder problem. This is not due to any grading inflation really, but it's due to the fact that the ground has dropped about 3 or 4 feet since the 60s. The first few moves of what is now T2 are actually the first few moves of the start that Bill Putnam worked out for the FFA of Lower Jules Verne that we did in 1972, and we did not touch any of T2's holds. In the sixties for the T2 start, there was a blade of rock that stuck out of the ground here, and taller climbers could balance on it, and lean over and barely reach the big flake just below the piton (it was a bolt then) and just do what is now the final move past the piton. Shorter climbers stood on a rock in the talus and did a quick pullup on a fingerbucket to reach the flake. This was called 5.9+ back then. I would call T2 11b now. Jules Verne start: 11c or 11c/d. The finger crack above the meadow is still 5.9 or 5.9+, and the final hard pitch is realistically 5.8+R/X.
Oct 23, 2006
There are currently 4 pins on the upper "rotten band" traverse. They are obvious if you climb high enough. If you don't see them keep going up the corner. You pass at least 2 other spots where you could go left, but shouldn't. T1.9 is my favorite long moderate in Eldo. The traversing finger crack pitch off the upper ramp is spectacular.
Jun 24, 2006
The last comment on this route is quite old so I figured I would update this route a little. I climbed this on Sunday for the first time. What a great route that packs qutie a bit of climbing into every pitch. Pitch-by-pitch breakdown. P1 - I was able to clip the pin off the jug so that is what I did. A stick clip would make this less spicy. The part above the pin is hueco'd and easy. A little run-out but there are some flakes and holes that I slung. The bolt is in good condition. P2 - I did the normal 2nd pitch of T2 and found it to be surprisingly better than what others had said. The bird poop was present but it was not smeared all over the rock. Rather, it was on the ground between stances. This was a good pitch too. P3 - Probably my favorite pitch. A spicy traverse left off of 2 bad pins. Very bad - soft-iron mangled shaky Eldo stuff. One bolt in the right spot might be able to replace both bad pins. The finger crack is great and is sustained and gets steeper towards the hand crack. I combined this pitch into the hand crack and up to the shelf. Great pitch! P4 - I don't think I did this one right. I moved up about 20 feet off of our belay and traversed left through a rotten band that was definitely 's'. I did not see any pins. Can anyone confirm that there are indeed pins on this traverse? IF there are, I took the traverse that was too low. It felt harder than 9, more like 10 b/c. I ended up on a nice small patch of grass after the traverse and followed a small left trending dike that put me directly over the Ruper roof for ther last 1.5 pitches. Overall, great route! I think a better description of where the left traverse goes for the final pitch would be nice. I looked hard for pins but could not find any.
May 30, 2006
There is quite a bit of bird crap/dead birds on the 2nd and 3rd pitch right now. It's kind of a shame, but a it is still a great climb.
May 19, 2005
Climbed "T1.9" today, what a fun moderate link-up. It was quite warm even in shorts, I guess no winter ascent points.
Jan 23, 2005
While I agree it's a difficult roof I just think that the pseudo-anchor you've depicted is slightly overkill. Not to say that some protection isn't worth investing time and energy in, but that I feel as though one would be quite safe with simply the 1" cam in the flake, if placed properly of course. My concern comes from looking at your picture and seeing that you do only gain a few inches by placing it, so why not just skip all the others and place ONLY it? I understand that if it blows, that's it, but if I spend as much time fiddling in gear as you obviously have then that's the only way I'll even fall! I dunno, it's not my call when someone else is climbing, but my recommendation would be to only use the 1" cam.
Nov 1, 2004
AC says: I dunno, Ivan...Just don't fall :) Not an option for me, yet. T2 is way hard for me. Way harder than, say, the Psychosis (11a) and Art's Spar (11 something according to many people) roofs. Harder perhaps than the Vertigo roof (11a), which I didn't get clean, but which is very safe.
Oct 22, 2004
I dunno, Ivan...you can place the 1" cam in the flake real fast, especially if you have the beta, but other than that I think placing any gear is superfluous. If you look at the benefit one gains by placing the 1" cam AFTER placing your Alien and offset Friend it's but a few inches. Hardly worth the time and effort, IMHO. I feel as though slapping in the 1" cam is somewhat beneficial for those who aren't solid, but again, hardly worth the time and effort. Just don't fall :)
Oct 21, 2004
Classic [spicy] pitch. I would never trust the pin for [more] than a hang anyway. A bolt would make this a completely different route.
Sep 5, 2004
Do NOT solo up to the pin unless you are very solid on 5.11. Place bomber gear instead. See photo. Does anyone know the recent history of the drilled pin? If this fails it would be a really ugly ground fall since most people do not back it up with gear lower down. When was the pin last replaced, if ever? Has there been discussion of replacing it with a bolt? If it is replaced with a bolt, should the bolt be placed a bit lower to make the clip easier?
Sep 5, 2004
Well [whether] you take the original line after the first pitch or the one to the left you will encounter bird crap. Either way get to the upper ramp and if you know what Eldo is about and get the lead for the next pitch, well your in for a truly [phenomenal] experience. I led this to the base of the right facing [dihedral] and had a blast the whole way, rested at the spot where the book suggest you belay from and continued for another 35' and set a belay there. The last pitch ??? To the top is not a scramble or a short hop, we [simul-climbed] for quite a ways and while dangerous as it can be, if you have the ability for the other pitches the last I would agree is 200-300', (we we're climbing on a 60m cord) you can knock it off that way. Super climb.
Apr 27, 2004
I have to tell this story... If you're the person in this story, take it in good spirit--you amazed us. Last weekend Chuck and I were at the base of Guenese. Some guy was rapping down T2. One of his ropes didn't reach the ground. We yelled to him, but he didn't seem concerned. He reached the fixed pin above the lip and clipped in. I was thinking I wouldn't want to hang on that pin, not knowing how rusty it was inside the drilled hole. We figured he was going to even out the ropes. But then, crash, he dropped his rack to the ground, and then he let go of the ropes. We then figured that we would let his partners above even out the ropes. But then he started to downclimb the 10d roof! Rethinking what was happening we decided that either,1) He was a 5.12 climber and downclimbing 10d roofs was casual.2) He'd done T-2 many times on the lead, and so downclimbing was reasonable.3) He was one of those crazy mountaineer types that did this sort of thing all the time, but on verglass.4) He didn't have a clue. He started downclimbing very nicely, heel hooking to get to the lower bucket. Lowered to a hang and started swinging. I was impressed, thinking we was going to get his feet back on and reverse the opening moves. But then he cut loose, landed, staggered a bit, but stayed up. A 9 points out of 10 dismount. He called up to his partners, _The ropes don't reach. I had to downclimb a bit._
Mar 21, 2004
If you want to climb this guy after work/class in the wintry waning daylight, try this on: Climb pitch one and belay at the chains. Pitch two: Traverse 25' left from the chains to a right-facing flake system/corner. Throw in a 3/4 cam and romp up the .8+/.9 corner with chalk marks. Pass a pigeon crap filled cave to a cool chimney of sorts. Stem/waddle up the chimney and exit to the right. Follow a rotten-looking set of vertical broken rock directly up, exiting a narrow groove and look to the right. The pitch is approximately 180'. Above you is the first pitch of the N'Edge and to the right are some nice chains. Set your anchor a little ways up N'Edge to help with drag and rap 3X from the chains at Climber's right. A 60m is all you need, but careful on the first rap: before you get down to the dead tree right near the ends, swing right about 15' around an arete of sorts just above the dying tree's top. Rap down to the first pitch's belay, then one more 25m rap to the ground! Class Eldo grab-bag climb and a NICE long pitch. Makes a GREAT 1.5 hour run.Enjoy!~Wm
Oct 29, 2003
One of my favorite link-ups is a route I call "T 1.9": T2 without the first pitch. It's one of the longest and best 5.9s in Eldorado: 1. Start with Touch 'n Go, but traverse left on the ramp halfway up to the bolts and chains atop the first pitch of T2. 2. Traverse 30' left and take the second pitch of Jules Verne (5.8+) all the way to the upper ramp. This is one of the best 5.8 pitches in the canyon, and the bird poop on the upper part of the pitch isn't too bad these days. 3-7. Walk about 100' up the upper ramp and continue with upper T2. Three pitches of 5.9 followed by two easier but runout pitches take you to the saddle and the tree atop Upper Ruper. Descend via the Chockstone Chimney and Vertigo rappels. A 60m rope is useful for the Chockstone Chimney rappel. A classic Eldorado 5.9!
Oct 21, 2003
Instead of following the ramp all the way over to Ruper at the top of the route, pull the 5.9 roof and look for a clean 5.7 corner and hand crack that leads directly to the summit of T2. It's about 90 feet across the ramp after the roof. Belay near the base of the corner at a flat ledge with a small tree then fire up to the summit in one more long lead. Amet's guide describes a two pitch variation to T2 called Direct Finish first led by Kor in '61 rated 5.5, I would call it 5.7s. I was surprised to find how little traffic the upper part of this route sees, I think it is some of the best climbing in the canyon.
Jun 2, 2002
The traverse on the first upper ramp pitch, protected by an old pin, can be backed up with a blue alien or equivalent TCU
Dec 21, 2001
Keep in mind the "scramble" to get to Ruper is about 2 pitches (300 ft.)
Nov 18, 2001
I'll agree that this route is one of the best ones in the canyon, especially as Pat suggests by climbing the Jules Verne pitches to avoid birdcrap (although they too have some crap). I will warn however, for the dangerous 5.9- upper pitch, really do some routefinding before launching through the moves going left. I had an encounter on this route were my belayer instructed my to "just go straight up the corner and traverse left at the shitty overhanging rotten band with no gear". If you're a boob like me, you'll follow these instructions to closely and anxiously cut left too low. This "variation" puts you 40ft. out sideways from your last piece of gear on overhanging loose rock trying to work through the 10+/11- moves on slick holds. All said, I survived, and don't recommend the "thanks for the beta, Bassett" variation to this dangerous pitch (10d s/vs).
Aug 1, 2001
- T2 Direct Finish
The pull around the roof was exciting and not that obvious where to go. Once you grab the jugs, cut right a bit and head up. I thought it was an awesome pitch. Bring a ton of tiny stoppers. It protected nicely.
Apr 30, 2015
Tried to do this twice now, and each time it ends up uber runout on lichen covered holds. Maybe I keep picking the wrong line but definitely felt 'R', and with such little traffic, I was worried a hold was going to pop. Skipping this pitch next go around.
Nov 8, 2014
Once on top, wander up the slab (~30 ft?) and locate a new threaded cord anchor. Make a messy rap north, then scramble up the slab until you intersect the Yellow Spur walk-off that leads back down to the Chockstone rappels.
Jun 19, 2014
Excellent pitch! (2 pitches?) If only it would get climbed more and some of the lichen would get scrubbed off. Even still, I highly recommend it. After the dicey talus pitch of T2, you'll be on a ramp. Look for a pocket in the wall, then go up and right over the roof to big jugs. Then aim for the obvious hand crack in a small roof, and climb on to the top!
Apr 1, 2013
- Touch 'N' Go
I consider myself a strong female climber, but I'm also 5'2", and boy did this route kick my butt considering what I expected reading. It was a 9- I was preparing for. I would easily consider this a 5.11a for short people. Beta tip for shorties: for the first traverse, if you're too short for the ideal feet, heel hook the chalked up crack your hands are in until the end and then swing your feet over to climbing up the blocky section. For the next section after that where many people talk about being too short for the reach and using a high foot, there is a calcium deposit that's the size of like 3 or 4 marbles, you can stem up and then match your right foot to your right hand (on the flat face to your right) and then stand up on that right foot on the deposit and reach for the hold. Hope that helps someone out there!
May 5, 2016
Hardest 5.8 I´ve ever climbed.
Nov 12, 2015
I've done the first pitch into Bolting about thirty times, and only twice ever did the second pitch, although it's also pretty fun. Pitch one into Bolting just seems like the obvious and most natural line to me.
Apr 6, 2013
I was lacking dynamic strength and/or reach length/height on that initial traverse move - even with that right foot up high as some have talked about. Super pumped trying to figure it out. Ended up shoving gear in for reach and pulling through, when I came back to it the touch and go variation over the overhang looked like an easier route through for me. Thought it was smooth sailing up that fingercrack once past that first traverse though - didn't find the crux that crux-like.
Jul 15, 2012
I climbed Touch and go this morning and finished on Anthill Direct. I did T & G in one pitch. Pretty fun route with a thought provoking crux. The top felt like a one move crux with good gear. You can place a small alien or bd cam at the crux. I am 5.9 and I can see how taller climbers would have no problem with this move. Anthill direct is a short but sweet climb. I had loads of fun on both of these routes. I would say these routes are must do for confident 5.9 climbers.
Jul 14, 2012
Did this route yesterday to approach The Edge, wow it is so good. Really enjoyed it. I think it is better doing it in one long pitch rather than two short pitches.
Jul 18, 2011
This is one of the finest and most continuous routes in the canyon. Correctly graded at 5.9-, it is somewhat hard to protect the opening moves off the ground, especially for a shorter climber. A shorter climber being defined as less than 6 feet!
Mar 19, 2011
Led this today for my first time climbing the route. I felt its was consistent 5.8 with a little "Touch and Go" here and there. The crux at the top was no harder than the crux at the bottom for me. Of course I am 6'5" and could reach the final jugs from a stance at the top of the dihedral. Classic!!!! We left a double length BD runner with 2 Mammut wire gates clipped to the bolt anchor for Scratch N Sniff which is just down and left from the beginning of the final dihedral. If you climb Touch and Go or Scratch N Sniff and grab them feel free to send me a PM. Otherwise the booty is yours! Thanks Drew
Nov 12, 2009
Lead this route clean OS yesterday. Didn't have the guidebook and had no idea what route I was on until today. It was one of the best moderate routes I have done in Eldo. Compares with the upper part of P1 on Werksupp, but a grade or so harder. Take a blue and yellow Alien. The yellow fit perfectly in the upper part of the final crux pocket and made me braver. Our 70m rope made it just to the deck. Also, very wet at the base of the climb and lots of wasps.
Aug 19, 2009
The upper crux would be 9+/10a any place outside of Eldo, let's be real here. It's a fun climb and I enjoyed it, no doubt, but calling this a 5.8 is just plain wrong. For people going up to do the Edge, no problem, they're strong 11- climbers at the least, so a sandbagged 8 isn't too big a deal. But if you're just getting into 9s or breaking into 10a climbs, this thing will put a serious WTF expression on your face toot sweet. A fun route nonetheless.
May 29, 2009
70m gets you to the ground from the top anchors (just barely).
Mar 9, 2009
This is a sweet climb. It is pretty pumpy, but doable. Since the beta has already been given away, I'll give it away again. Get your foot high in the crack on your right when pulling the roof and that changes the whole story. At the second crux I put a 0.5 Camalot in the solution finger pocket and didn't want to take it out because it fit so well. I ended up doing a double dead point with insecure feet. Fun stuff. Next time I'm going to simply not place gear there as I have no Aliens. Overall, I would still call it 8+. This doesn't really compare to the Yellow Spur or the Unsaid.
Feb 22, 2009
Heads up, there were a ton of wasps around the base on 11/16. I got stung leaving the ground. Makes the start all that more interesting.
Nov 17, 2008
Awesome route! Polished a bit, but that's Eldo for ya. Definitely not for a budding 5.8 leader. Watch out for many wasps/bees/painful stingy things on the ground while belaying, and all the wet mud when tossing your ropes for rappel. I agree that it is awkward to get to the second rappel station, the rap anchors at the top of Redguard that Ron Olsen alludes to is a better option.
Oct 29, 2008
Classic! Awesome! The thread works well off the ground to protect the crux. And a red C3 goes in perfectly at the upper crux in an unlikely pocket/flare.
Oct 23, 2008
Are the two bolt anchors a 1/3 of the way up new? I climbed this route 2 or so years ago and don't remember those being there. Still a great route.
May 16, 2007
Can see why it is classic. Real nice positioning. I found the first crux "strenuous" for 5.8 (which is what Rossiter calls it in the guidebook), but then I probably missed a sequence as the next guy to lead it after we were done floated it (looked like the same height as me) with only one piece of pro for the first 25 ft or so. Must be something called technique.
Nov 6, 2006
Lead it on the way up to the Naked Edge. Thought it to be quite dope. If you told me the second thin dihedral pitch was 10a I would believe you. That said, I certainly would not dispute the 8+ grade, sandbagging is what makes the world go round, and it is part of what makes climbing fun. I was stoked to have some RPs on my rack they seemed to make the difference between being safe or not.
Nov 5, 2006
This climb eats small nuts really well... a little too well! I "donated" 3 of them.
Sep 24, 2005
Having climbed Touch 'n Go many times with many different partners, here's my take: - the roof at the start is 5.8 for tall climbers, 5.9 for shorter climbers. At 6'1", I can reach bomber holds at full extension before I launch into the moves around the roof. I've seen many shorter climbers struggle here, including those who are solid on other Eldorado 5.9s. - you can get great pro in the pod in the upper corner before doing the crux. Ernie gets a blue Alien; I get a green Alien (wiggled in deep at the top of the pod). The cams are tight but not overcammed. The pro before this is a yellow Alien just below foot level. This is one of the finest climbs at this grade in Eldorado, along with the first pitch of Werk Supp. Both merit three stars.
Sep 10, 2005
I've lead this several times and again last month was on it and the blue alien placement in the pocket at the upper crux is bomber IMO. First time I jumped on this several years ago I was a bit sketched on that upper crux and didn't have the blue alien. The move off that perch is closer to (9) than to (8) IMHO.Agree that the lower crux is not terribly difficult, especially for taller folks, but last month I watched a shorter guy fall off before the corner while following this pitch, while we waited, although he got right back on, and had no problems with the rest of the route. The rock down low on the traverse is a bit polished but the crack above is beautiful. I find the start of T & G very nice and the moves a bit higher in the crack/flake thingy superb. IMO the best way to climb this route is to throw a long runner on the upper corner (touch) and then send it to the top (go)...
Sep 9, 2005
After reading all the comments on cb.com; I walked up to this climb last night thinking an epic battle of good versus evil was about to unfold as I flaked the rope and made ready the gear. My mind was primed for battle, but as I began to follow the first pitch I thought Hmmm the real crux must be on the second pitch because the 1st roof isn't that bad (one reachy move to a bomber fingerlock and [it's] over). Once at the top of P1 Larry and I swapped leads. I thought this is it, [there's] gonna be wasps, no gear and 5.9 pumpy moves. But, the difficulty never came and the stopper placements are good all the way up and you can place a bomber cam by your feet at the second crux. I tried to place a decent alien in the eye level pocket, blue was undercammed and green was a bit too big to be of use. But, in retrospect, I won't even bother next time, you can place a bomber stopper right after the crux, so [there's] maybe 10 feet you can't place pro, no big deal in my opinion and no harder than any other 5.8 in the canyon. No way is this harder than [The Unsaid] or [Blind Faith!] With all that said, very interesting climb with lots of cool moves, highly recommended!
Sep 9, 2005
We did a bunch of routes this morning, and I found that Blind Faith (10a variation) felt more secure, and maybe even easier than this '5.8+'. On the other hand, I like hand sized cracks. Maybe I was just out of it... I will say this - not a good first crack lead, in my opinion. Interesting gear, small fingery pockets, etc.
Jun 17, 2005
A great route, definitely *stout* for a 5.8, particularly the second crux.
Sep 27, 2004
I thought all of the routes were sandbagged here. Nothing new. Glad to hear it's easier than Green Spur though, I thought that was a cool onsight. Can't wait to try it. thanks for the pro advice.
Aug 22, 2004
1st P NEW VARIATION: From the stem stance before the first crux (where the thread, big stopper, 2.5 friend placement is), pull up and over the roof to a recently excavated hold. Head straight up. About as hard as the regular way.
Jun 24, 2004
This route should fall from favor; its really getting a bit polished as the access to the road will do for you. This is probably why people are balking at the 8+; some of the feet lower down aren't very usable; kind of like stepping on a pool ball in a pair of sox. The top part is really interesting; that's just something a little baffling about that dihedral.
Apr 21, 2004
Any time I'm feeling weak and worried about my next hardest Eldo onsite, I like to read the comments on Touch and Go. Maybe because of the comments here I was so psyched when I lead this that I found extra strength, or expected it to be harder than it was. On the other hand, after finishing I did see a climber struggling a lot at the initial roof. Of course he was tackling it straight on at the first big hold above it, instead of traversing father left.Although it is a bit powerful, if you climb 5.10 sport or spend any time whatsoever in a gym you should have no problem with the roof - assuming good technique, it is less pumpy than it looks. I also found the upper crux reachy, but not particularly hard (I'm 6ft) and well protected (with double ropes I had one piece near my ankles and one in the opposite wall close by). 8, 8+ 9-, whatever, this is a great climb and if you lead 5.8 and have decent technique I don't see why this should present any serious difficulty. Don't be put off by 'the hardest 5.8' because if it were 5.9 it would be one of the easiest 5.9's in Eldo. Having said all that, the start of the second half looks seriously intimidating from the bottom. It's not until I got on it that I discovered many good stem rests and decent pro. IMO harder climbs:Ruper P2 and P6P2 of Over and OutWind Ridge P39's such as Green Spur, Yellow Spur, Emerald city, P2 Over the Hill, West Buttress (Bastille) So my 2 cents 8, maybe 8+ is about right.
Mar 5, 2004
For the traverse left at the beginning of the climb, Michael and a couple of others above have mentioned threading a hole for a bomber piece of protection. One further tip: Use a medium to large wired stopper to thread the hole rather than a sling. A larger stopper is too big to go through the hole, so just stick the wire through and then clip it with a draw. This is quick and easy to do with one hand.
Oct 28, 2003
I climbed this yesterday. There is a great hole to thread at the traverse that makes those moves well protected. No need to place pro in the [horizontal] crack just thread the hole. It was reachy but you are reaching for a bomber jug so it is not so bad. I thought the whole climb was great and the rating right on b/c no way was this harder than the Green Spur.
Oct 27, 2003
Other than off-widths of the same grade, Touch and Go is the hardest 8 around. I recently discovered a trick to make the initial roof reasonable: Right foot high on a good hold and partial knee bar into the small right facing corner. A tight red/#1 Camalot provides good pro for the crux moves at the very top. A (narrower) Alien of the same size would be better still.
Sep 27, 2003
Let's see, I followed Touch and Go yesterday and then lead the 5.9 crux of Anthill Direct... The Touch and Go crux felt more insecure and harder (while following!) than the Anthill direct 5.9 on lead... Either one ratting needs to come down or the other needs to go up. WT
Sep 19, 2003
A blue alien fits perfectly in the eye level pocket at the upper crux. I do a layback using that little pocket and then stem wide to a small face out right to get enough height to reach a good right hand hold... and then yard on up grunting the whole way that this is only 5.8 !
Sep 19, 2003
The high crux on this route can be intimidating. I led this several weeks ago myself (last time was a few years ago) to start Anthill Direct. I forgot that you can't get any decent pro in right at the crux and I just blew off some devious but possible placements and just blasted up to "the stance." Then I stood there and fidgeted and fidgeted, and chalked and rechalked, and sweated, and lamented my haste, and eyed my last piece way down below, and cursed my cowardice, and considered how Layton Kor, or Royal Robbins would laugh at my fear of a simple unprotected 5.8+ move. Finally I just got mad at myself and pulled through it. Okay, great! Now I'm at the wider crack above, all tingly with adrenaline and fighting the boogie man in my head that was incessantly whispering "you're going to pass out and fall a bazillion feet, why did you climb up here in the first place you fool," while frantically trying to weave in a stopper, when I hear a buzzing, and wasps begin to emerge from the crack and swirl around my face. I quickly clipped the stopper and then moved up to the belay, cringing, with my eyes closed, and teeth clinched, expecting the sting any minute that never came. All that pain, all that hideous suffering and high drama - and my partner gets to the belay and just says, "that was nice."
Sep 19, 2003
Ugh! I led this today and the climb seems only to get harder with age (mine, that is). I have never had much trouble with the lower half, but the upper crux is difficult for me.
Sep 18, 2003
I really liked this climb. I thought the traverse at the bottom would have to be poweful and favor albatross-like people as well. But after closer inspection i was able to put my right foot high up near the hand traverse and push off that (like Ernie described above). This helped me a lot. I can't wait to lead this one too....
Sep 30, 2002
I agree with Tony that reach and power is essential in pulling the 1st crux since there's no obvious feet placements at that corner...thats how I did it too. However, I watched a guy pull it with a sequence where he stuck the right foot way up high in the hand crack and pushed off on that to get through it. Flexibility & technique can overcome wingspan limitations there.
Sep 21, 2002
I feel that the left-arching start is height and power dependant. The first 2 times I did the route it was with partners no taller than 5'4" (and female) and their problem was reach. I also found that as a fairly strong guy that I was able to brute my way over a few more technical moves.If you don't have the power to skip some bad holds, or can't reach past them, the rating will feel like 5.8 or 5.9 for the first pitch.-Tony Bubb
Sep 20, 2002
In Rossiter's newest Eldo book, he describes two variations to the start of T&G. Both start to the right of the standard route. The first, takes a L-arcing flake on the right, which takes good gear (8) and another one in the R-facing dihedral on the left side. Rossiter says that the second variation is 9s, but I found it to be reasonably-well protected with some small stoppers and cams and only about 5.7+ or so. Maybe I'm missing something, but the topo in the book shows exactly what I had to climb to free a stuck rope at the top of those variations. I don't think either variation could be considered any harder than 5.8. Anyone else find the book's rating an error?
Sep 19, 2002
Did this as a Sept. 11th tribute climb. [Definitely] feel its a classic and a sand bagged 8+. Agree with those who feel its more 9ish. Felt it to be a harder lead than The Unsaid which is 9. The flake above the first crux is wonderful finger crack climbing. I felt the 2nd crux, high on the dihedral requires a small cam like an alien, which I didn't have, but I did find a stopper placement in a small crack out near the edge on the opposite left face at that point. It wasn't super solid, but it worked. Next time I'll bring doubles of #3-6 stoppers and either a yellow or green alien (or both) for that upper dihedral. Do this climb...it rocks!
Sep 11, 2002
Another alternate way to rappel this route with one rope, is to climb up and left to the rappel anchors mid-way up to the start of the Naked Edge. This is sort of hard to describe, but it is up and left for sixty feet or so and is on top of a big boulder. From here, you rappel down to the anchors at the top of the first pitch of T2 and then to the ground. An additional advantage is that you can now toprope the dangerous, difficult, and very cool start to T2. I think you need a 60-meter rope to do this. Bill
Aug 9, 2002
If you have one rope, an easier rappel descent can be made by traversing over to the main wall by Anthill Direct and downclimbing a bit to the bolt anchor atop the second pitch of Redguard Route. Two rappels will put you at the start of Redguard. This is much easier than doing two rappels down Touch 'n Go, since the second rappel lies well left of the first and is somewhat awkward to get to. I like to gear up at a little shaded area below and right of the start, avoiding the mess and muck oozing from the spring by the base of the climb. I protect the first crux (cranking left around the roof) by threading a Rabbit Runner through a hole.
Aug 8, 2002
Do you guys really think this is 5.9----I led the Green Spur the other day and thought it was quite a bit harder than Touch and Go.
Jun 22, 2002
The 1st couple of times I did this route I had problems with stoppers pulling out on me just above the ledge in the upper dihedral (I always do it as one pitch). I would get sketched out because I was near the crux and my stoppers were popping out because of the way the rope was bending. Now I put a long sling on the bolt anchor where you would stop if doing this as two pitches and have not had any problems because the bolt takes all of the upward pull instead of my gear. It seemes inobvious becaue the bolts are below the ramp you walk across, maybe I'm just a slow learner....
Jun 11, 2002
Lynn Hill is 5'2" no pity for short people from me. Keep in mind that some (very few) routes are easier for short than for taller people like myself. Learn to do the route your own way. use technique and strength to work around what taller people just reach to. Quit whining
May 30, 2002
The route goes fine with a 50 m rope (I first climbed it with a 45 m rope_no problem). I enjoy doing it as 2 pitches_better communication, no rope drag. The first belay stance is at the bolts just below the beginning of the upper dihedral. When rappelling with a single rope from the top, use these lower bolts as the second stance. Also, just before passing the roof at the start, there is a hole in the rock that can be easily slung for secure protection.
May 16, 2002
An incredible pitch - maybe my favorite so far in Eldo. I totally agree with the note above, though - there's definitely a height issue for us short people! It's a totally different set of moves if you can't reach that nice little crack from the decent feet right after the traverse. My tall friends just don't understand... Watch a really short person climb it sometime if you don't know what I'm talking about. The rest of the climb, though, is absolutely terrific! I keep wanting to climb it in spite of the agony that the one height-requiring move puts me in. And, to be fair, being short might be an advantage for other parts of the climb... I found the rest of the climb easier than my taller friend did.
Nov 12, 2001
This is a 5.8+ for those of you that are taller than 5 foot 7, but for those of us short women, it is a 5.11! That move is way hard to get if you are short, you just can't reach it! This climb definitely made me think there should be separate ratings for people shorter than 5 foot 7. : )
Nov 6, 2001
I agree with Ben....led this yesterday and it felt like solid 5.9 to me. GREAT pitch with killer finger crack.....pumpy....funny how the Boulder climbs south calls this 5.9 but the new Eldo guide calls it 8+....#s don mean shit and regardless, this is a classic and wonderful pitch....Don miss it!
Jan 1, 2001
I do not understand why Rossiter downrated it either. I actually thought Bolting for Glory was almost easier than the top of Touch Go, because the cruxes on Bolting are over quickly.
Jan 1, 2001
This route is great for perfecting your stopper placements. I place a 2.5 friend in the traverse and then nuts for the rest of the route. At the top I felt bad about the first cam! [Definitely] solid (and then some) for the grade. Harder than quite a few Eldo 9s.
Jan 1, 2001
Touched & Went - I had to come to terms with this pitch: I tried T&G as one of my very first trad leads on an icy cold morning, fell from the roof with no pro and broke several bones. Nowadays, it is one of my favorite pitches, a perfect warmup for the hundreds of world-class routes that wait up the hill. But every time I reach for those fingerlocks in the upper dihedral, I shudder to think what would have happened to Mr. 5.9 gym climber if hed made it up that far on that morning. I think those wobbly, blown-out nut placements near the top could be rather disconcerting to a budding 5.8 (or 5.9, whatever) leader.
Jan 1, 2001
What an amazing route! You don need two ropes IF you happen to have a 70m rope. I was able to get down just at the ends of the rope with a 70m alone. You sure are right though about stoppers... bring doubles in small and medium sizes and leave most of your cams in your pack.
Jan 1, 2001
An awesome route with a perfect crack for most of this long route. The grade is a little sandbagged IMO.
Jan 1, 2001
- Weeping Willow
- Wild Kingdom
Very complimentary write up Richard. I just did this route the other day after not having done it in a long time. I forgot how cool this route is. This is a great Eldo route! Sporty for a sport route. Actually it is not really a sport route. It is supplemented with some trad pro which makes it more interesting than clipping only bolts and the bolts are certainly not at your waist when doing the crux climbing. This makes it a climb that leaves you feeling like you really did a lead. The climb is relatively safe with a touch of hot sauce and lots of exposure. It is very similar, in nature, to Rosy but a full grade & maybe a couple of tics harder. The cool thing is you get to do what I think is the crux climbing on Rosy before you start up Wild Kingdom. So if you like Rosy and would like some similar, saucy, spooky, harder, climbing than Rosy do Wild Kingdom! The route does has some delicate flakes on it and you need to be careful about how much force you put on them. i.e folks "of substance" should not do this route! Not sure what I was doing up there. I don't think the route sees a lot of traffic compared to other Eldo routes. Just to help with a consensus for a rating for the route and I caveat that all ratings should come from multiple opinions to have a consensus rating. So this is only my opinion. I don't think this comes any where close to the 12a rating put on this route by the FA party... Maybe some holds broke & it's easier now? To try and compare it to a similar climb. I think this route is easier than its neighbor Predator which I have not done in a number of years but my recollection is that Predator was a little harder than Wild Kingdom and a little closer to what I feel would be Eldo 11+. Predator definitely felt a tic or two harder than Wild Kingdom did to me back in those days. My opinion back then was that neither of them should be given a 12a rating. I could see when I was up there the other day that one flake that was on Predator in the earlier years is now gone so not sure how hard Predator is today. Both routes could have probably changed some from the early years due to breaking rock. So after my ascent the other day I would rate Wild Kingdom mid 5.11 and for a generous letter grade Eldo 11c.
May 24, 2006
- Wingless Victory
Up there today. Old school ring bolts but seem OK for what they are. I would say it's a candidate for a facelift, as with Sickness unto Death above.
May 16, 2015
Does anyone know what shape the bolts are in?
Apr 26, 2015
- Rincon
- Rincon - Center Route & R
- Another Pipeline Bonecrusher
Currently no fixed wires in the crack. 2x (blue Alien/purple Metolius), 1x 0.3 Camalot, and 1x 0.75 Camalot supplement the 3 bolts and chains nicely.
May 18, 2015
There are now chains at the top of Another Pipeline Bonecrusher. We also replaced the third bolt as the old one was sticking out from the wall. Thanks to Chris Archer and ACE for supplying the hardware! With the addition of these anchors, and the ability to project the route, I think it's definitely worthy of 3 stars as it's a splitter overhanging crack in Eldo. According to Jo Huggins, the route's name comes from a line from the awesomely 70's surf movie Big Wednesday... "and here's Jerry Lopez on another pipeline bonecrusher."
Jun 30, 2011
- Camouflage
Great vision by the FA party to see and equip this line. Superbly thin and technical movement. Definitely easier when conditions are crisp.
Nov 20, 2014
This climb seemed to get better each time I worked it. The climbing is cryptic and the cruxes seem fairly beta intensive. The rock is bullet, one of the best slab routes I've been on. Sure felt like a sandbag at .12b...but I'm a softy.
Dec 15, 2009
There's a hard slab at Button Rock Reservoir...down off the creek. Can't remember the name.
Jan 21, 2009
Try the Black Face at Cadillac Crag. Really fun! I think it is supposed to be middle 12, but it seemed harder than that. Also, down in Clear Creek there is a thing called Black and Tan (?) on Wall of the Nineties that is pretty insane.... I couldn't figure it out.
Dec 17, 2008
Is this the hardest slab route around Boulder? It sure feels super stout and sustained for the grade. Any of you slabmasters out there have a recommendation for other hard slab routes? Thanks!
Dec 16, 2008
Saw a strong climber going directly onto the arete and got it clean last weekend. He said it was a lot harder than going to the right but didn't elaborate on the grade.
Jan 16, 2008
The route description says to go right into the corner after the slab. Does anyone know how hard it is to climb the arete (which looks way better!) that is above the slab instead of the corner? Thanks!
Dec 13, 2007
Sport climbing in Eldo... Wow. Dogged/"aided" this route on a hot day in July. A cooler day (or earlier in the morning before the sun hits) would probably make it a bit easier. We ended up clipping the first bolt while rapping from Center Route, but the moves going from the right is not difficult (if a bit dicey). My fingers took most of damage between bolt 2 & 3 while trying to figure out the moves. Otherwise, the crimps are not too unfriendly. I'll definitely have to come back for the redpoint (and free the crux move below the roof) someday.
Sep 26, 2006
The crimps on this route are small, and hard to find (thus the namesake), but didn't tear my fingers up like some sharper routes have. I still had fun on this. Going to the first bolt on lead is difficult but it did not seem unreasonably hard to get to. After the initial roof is beat you are high up there, but not at a crux. The route also moves hard right and then back, between the second and third bolts. I had not looked at the topo and tried to stay the direct line. This proved to be extremely difficult, (impossible for me) and even when resorting to aiding though and attempting to TR it, I still failed to get it direct. I never did manage to redpoint the route, but it was a good time anyway. I don't care too much for sport-climbing in general, but this route offers a fairly fun and unique opportunity to do something a little different, and do it safely.
Feb 1, 2002
- Center Route
Got schooled on this today. Pumpy. It feels to me that the individual moves are not harder than hard 10, but... there are many steep moves stacked on top of one another into, through, and above the roof for 10 or so feet. Will be back. Protects brilliantly with small nuts and a few cams.
Mar 21, 2017
Great route, this thing eats stoppers like crazy. I placed a #3 down low, a purple tcu in a horizontal below the roof, and a 0.75 after the crux, the rest were nuts and fixed pins.
Apr 6, 2010
Opening moves can easily be protected with a #3 Camalot instead of a #4. Awesome climb!! I didn't think this was much easier than Climb of the Century, but that's probably mostly due to my lack of crack skills. EDIT: climbed this again several years later, definitely easier than COTC.
Apr 4, 2010
Just thought I'd add that, after the initial moves, P2 is 5.8-ish and protects very well
Apr 27, 2009
I'd say it's a "first come, first serve" situation up there Adam. There are plenty of other routes on Rincon and if those dudes want to bumble thier way up it, then you'll just have to go huck laps some other day.I'll agree that it is frustrating when it happens, but we've all paid our dues. cheers.
Oct 31, 2005
Took a 15 footer on this back in the mid 90's. Breathing a sigh of relief at my clean fall, I looked up and saw spaghetti rope above me. Moving at my second fastest speed ever (the fastest being falling into 34 degree water while windsurfing), I clipped a nearby pin relic at the speed of light. The rope was my (new) partner's - she told me she'd stored it in a car in Alaska for 1 year and a half. Nice.
Feb 23, 2005
I've looked at this for a couple of years. If you're leading anywhere near this range, don't wait too long, go do it. My impressions:* The gear is much better than it looks.* The 5.9 moves off the ground were harder than they look. BIg hands, but you tip to the right.* The climbing to the ceiling was much easier than it looks.* Exiting left at the ceiling was easy for me, about low 10. A short reach might make it much harder to get the initially jug.* The stance after the ceiling was much worse than I expected. Perhaps long arms would make the undercling comfy (calling Ken Heiser). I eventually was able to settle down a bit here.* The move starting the finger crack was very hard for me. Thin fingers or very long reach would help. William McGhee says "think layback". I thought layback but coudln't figure anything out that would work.* The rest is pumpy with some bad feet. Went too high at first before traversing left.
Feb 22, 2005
I've done both second pitch possibilities. I thought the left was the more dificult and more interesting of the two. However I also remember the fixed andchor at the top of this pitch being a couple of less than inspiring pitons. Any word on the current status of that anchor?
Aug 18, 2004
Also fun if you're breaking into 5.11a.
Feb 25, 2004
FUN FUN FUN FUN FUN! It may seem quite the dicey lead, but if you're looking to break on into .11b, definitely give this a shot! Gear is great though it looks bad from the ground and the moves are wonderfully technical. Roof beta...Beware!!!Drop your left foot back to the left wall onto a smaller ledge, smear your right on up as far as needed to reach the 'horn' on the top of the arete/roof junction to your left. Double up for hands on that one and just swing your legs around the arete to the left. Great moves. After that, just think lieback and give the crux a throw! ~Wm
Feb 25, 2004
Harder than your average Eldo 11a
Apr 14, 2003
If you don't want to deal with the semi-hanging belay at the top of the first pitch, with a 60-meter rope you can combine the first two pitches. This makes turning the bulge at the start of the second pitch a bit tougher of course - due to drag and rope weight.
Jul 1, 2002
A little beta for the upper pitches... If you are going to continue after pitch 1 do not move left to the anchor at the top of pitch one, head right to a different bolted anchor at the top of Camouflage and belay there (semi-hanging). Pitch 2 starts with a tricky 10b move over a bulge above the belay and continues up a right-facing dihedral with raspberry bushes for a 100 feet to a comfortable belay ledge. Protect early on this pitch to avoid landing in your belayers lap (sorry Lindsay) and go in August for the best raspberries. Pitch 3 cuts left on jugs up and around the corner to a slab (8+). Continue up the slab passing a band of loose rotten rock (5.8S) and belay on the large walk off ledge. Walk off to the left past the finish of Over The Hill.
Jun 30, 2002
I agree with Tom. A fun route for a crack-head in any season.
Feb 22, 2002
One of my favorite routes in the canyon. A good barometer for your early season crack head.
Oct 17, 2001
To reduce the potential for a big ground fall, I recommend placing some Spectra cord around a downward pointing horn of sorts about ten feet above the initial corner. Also, a number 3 Camalot is helpful for backing up the old pin just before the roof.
Aug 29, 2001
- Concentric
Fun, little traverse. The crux pro placement is not the most awe inspiring, the rock there is coarse grained, and the placement is flared and angled.
Jun 30, 2015
Concentric @ Rincon @ Eldo Concentric, 5.10c PG-13. Image by Mountain Project contributor Jake Wyatt. Using the bolt anchor for Camouflage is a great way to set up a top rope for Rincon's finger crack. Although, continuing to the top via Center Route or On the Crest is why I think this is a four star route. Concentric climbs Rincon's central wall without having to do 5.11. PG-13 because the red Alien will not save the leader from hitting the Camouflage slab if the anchor is not successfully clipped.
Oct 28, 2014
+1 Clayton, contender for the best pitch I've climbed in Eldo.
Apr 3, 2011
Link it all into P2 of Center Route for a great 185' pitch with a few 5.10 cruxes.
Mar 13, 2010
- Counterstroke
Rich- In this case all gear was placed on the lead (both Andy and I led it). A "headpoint" lead is the culmination of toprope rehearsal, cleaning (if necessary), and gear inspection, using clean gear only (in my definition). Matt Samet does a good job presenting headpointing in the Current Features section of this site under Hound Dog Flaming- if you can stomach the thread discussion; and both Matt and Steve Dieckhoff raise some interesting justifications for using the headpoint approach in Eldo under The Lion (Wind Tower) route description comments.
Jan 9, 2003
Steve-What is your definition of head point? Was the route established with pre-placed gear or was the protection placed on lead for the first ascent?
Jan 9, 2003
The flex flake under the roof is now gone. After a repeat of this climb yesterday (12-8-02) I think the .12a grade may be soft.
Dec 9, 2002
Andy lost the coin toss so I got to lead this first, placing all the gear, then I cleaned it and Andy led it in similar fashion.
Dec 4, 2002
- Five-Eight Crack
I climbed this route on Saturday (4/11/2015), and I thought it was a very straightforward 5.8, but I would not recommend this route to a budding 5.8 leader. I thought the lower moves were a little cruxy, considering the pro was not straightforward, nor did I trust that gear entirely to catch a fall. Once you get about 20' up, I felt all the gear was solid.
Apr 13, 2015
I lead at a 5.9 level comfortably. Found this to be pretty simple to protect with small wires through the bottom 20 feet, then it sews up above. Use a zipper tri-cam at the base. Not an S or even PG13.
Jul 15, 2012
I am solid at 5.10, and all this took worth placing was a blue TCU and a small nut, 1 foot apart. The rest of the "gear" would have been pointless. Just don't fall, how about that? Great, short, little route though for leaders trying to get comfortable on 5.8 without gear in Eldo.
Jan 2, 2012
Good route, as long as you are comfortable at runout 5.8, so definitely not for a novice 5.8 leader. Has anyone ever fallen at the crux and still declared that it doesn't get an R?
Aug 11, 2011
Small run out close to ground, easy not to fall, though. Fun route, worth doing if have done all other climbs in area, higher up climbing is really fun.
Jul 11, 2011
Didn't find this to be S at all. That undercling will take a green C3 or purple MasterCam plus a pink tricam (nose down). Micro nuts and a standard rack will sew this up. I also saw someone place a good 0.4 C4 in that undercling (further right, same spot I placed the tricam).
May 21, 2011
I definitely agree with an S rating on this. I tried to get an Alien into the undercling, but it felt like it was very poor, so I moved up a bit and placed a small nut before making the crux move. Once through the crux, the climb will take small cams and even a #1 Camalot near the top to prevent a big [swing] by someone toproping the climb. Fun and thought-provoking for someone like myself just getting into 5.9 leading, however.
Oct 10, 2006
Great route. But thin, thin, thin for 5.8. One Yellow TCU at 10 ft then nothing for the next 15-20 ft. If you are squirrely above small stuff, and learning to lead gear, this is not a good choice. The pure technical grade is stiff, AND add some spice, a new leader is not having a good day. The 10a crack to the left is more fun, and closer to accurate.
Sep 26, 2006
Well, the comments here make me feel a bit better. I should have read this page first. My thrilling (and somewhat embarassing) story: I pulled my one piece of "mental pro," a cam in the undercling 10 feet or a bit less off the ground, in a semi-controlled fall I took as I was attempting to bail. As someone leading 5.8 at my limit, I didn't want to risk climbing higher. As it was, my fall amounted to a big jump. I'm pretty relieved about the whole uninjured ankle, etc. situation. Man, it looked like there would be better pro. 5.8 face seems a more apt name for the bottom of this climb. Yeah, I'll just remain an AC on this one....
Nov 9, 2004
Yep, the pro sucks for the first 15' or so of this climb. It's a fun little route, just don't fall before you get in some solid gear ;-)
Oct 10, 2004
Did this as my first 5.8 trad lead today. Given that I've never trad lead anything above 5.6 I didn't feel the moves were any harder than the guide's .8 rating nor the protection meriting an "s" let alone "vs" rating. The undercling 10' up easily took my #2 Metolius 4cam (or a #3 6" to the left) and more several more nice cam placements higher up. That poor tree at the top of the route needs a 30 year break from rappels.
May 14, 2003
The route may warrant an s rating, but you can definitely get some reasonable gear in before the 20' mark. After the first hard move (at about 10'), it sews up if you have some small RPs and cams. If you are a new 5.8 leader you will probably want to hold off on this one though.
Sep 20, 2002
There is a good BD #4 steel nut at the crux in a corner before the small overlap about 10 feet above the undercling. This makes it seem much more safe. casey bernal
Sep 9, 2002
Feeling great about leading 5.10 crack, I thought this would have seem a logical warm down. Bad assumption. The pro indeed sucks until about 30 feet off the ground, well past the crux. And about that crux - good gravy. I looked at the book and realized that 5.8+ crack was put up by Bob Culp and Bob Lagrange in 62'. The + obviously meant that there was no 5.9 in those days...5.10 crack was led in 73 by the Briggs boys, and they indeed had 5.10 climbs. A little historical perspective on the apparent disparity in grading these routes.
Aug 4, 2002
The tree in question is at the base of the climb. I assume most people won't be repelling a flat dirt section at the base of Rincon, but then again.. I do agree however that the rap tree for the routes in this area is getting shotty. One day it will probably be replaced by a bolted rap station, or perhaps instead, a "vs" rated 6 foot jump to the big tree and 60 foot "bear-hug fireman's slide" down to the base.
Dec 30, 2001
You can stick a blue Alien in an undercing about 10 feet up, after that there's not much for pro for the next 15 or 20 feet(.8). If you consider Tagger's first pitch an "s" rating, this route would be considered one as well. Cheat on the tree if need be. Stays in the sun till about 3:00 (on 12/18/01).
Dec 21, 2001
I agree, I thought 5.8 crack seemed just as tricky as 5.10 crack... Maybe eaiser moves, but, the difficulty is at the bottom where you get one [piece] of "mental pro." If you get sketched out, try leaning back, and resting against the tree that is directly behind the route, you can chimney between that, and the rock for a little bit of the start. Fun route!
Jan 1, 2001
- Five-Ten Crack
This makes a very fine start to an excellent pitch, sustained at the grade, when paired with the Reveley-Hunter above. The gear is much better than it first appears. It's about a 170' pitch when done this way. The poison ivy in the crack system mid-way can be totally avoided by jogging to the right and clipping a long sling to the highest tree above "5.8 crack" and then moving back left.
Mar 10, 2017
I remember this one being pretty well protected for 10a at Eldo, albeit with small gear. You have pretty decent stances, and you can place quite a few good small wires. Maybe go back up and do it again, you might be more relaxed and find more protection opportunities.
Aug 11, 2014
Generally I consider myself to be very good with creative Eldo gear, especially passive gear. However, I thought this one was a bit hard to protect... certainly adequate but definitely not without a bit of spice. 2-3 marginal RP placements and a "reasonable" 0 Mastercam protected the crux moves. Based on the other people's posts, perhaps I am wrong?
Aug 9, 2014
Fantastic route! Good movement, good passive gear, interesting crux. It could use some chain anchors for the TR, since that part of Rincon is the easier craggin' section. If you go WAY right to the 5.8 anchors, it is awkward for multiple parties. Who wants to pull the trigger on that?
Sep 26, 2006
Nice climb in a area of awesome rock. I don't know if anyone would want beta for pro at the crux. If so, you can place a yellow Alien once you get your feet up and reach over the small roof.
Apr 27, 2004
Just a suggestion, but this route, Racoon Soup, and five-eight crack all share the same anchor- an eight foot tall tree, six inches in diameter. This 'anchor' sees a lot of use, especially of the TR variety which is particularly hard on anchors. The tree can be backed up with a #1 Camalot or two in the crack behind, or by placing some nuts above Raccoon Soup or Five-ten crack. But even with the backup (and it seems many people don't even do this), the tree is still taking the weight in the vast majority of TR situations. A better solution would be to use a gear TR anchor, then rap off the tree when finished... no one ever does this though. So I was curious what people thought about the idea of a nice, beefy two-bolt anchor somewhere on the ledge system to serve as anchor for these three climbs. Not to mention that this would probably save the poor tree lots of wear and tear. These are among the most travelled climbs in the Rincon/West Ridge area, and the tree will probably pull someday.
Apr 21, 2003
This is an excellent 1 pitch 5.10. Very fun technical moves. I led this one and felt it was easier that the p1 of Rincon, which I followed. Oh well, it is all good stuff. If you don't want detailed beta then skip the rest of this comment. You don't need any cams larger than a #3 Friend, and you really only need one of those. Otherwise nothing larger than a .75 Camalot. You will need a lot of smaller stuff, especially small nuts or RPs. For the section before the crux I had 3 small/tiny wires and a blue Alien, but at the crux you can hang off the finger lock and place an excellent cam above your head for the move. Sorry to spray beta but a first time 5.10 leader could get spooked and might end up testing the wire strength of the tiny nuts. Almost 3 stars if it was longer. Casey Bernal
Apr 29, 2002
I [definitely] agree that this is easier than pitch one of Rincon (9+). Took a sizable whipper on Rincon,,, suppose I should have picked a more warmup like warmup to climb first! Clean fall though, just quite large...oops!
Aug 6, 2001
Great pitch, good first 10a lead. Easier than P1 of Rincon, IMO.
Jan 1, 2001
This is a short but very good climb, the protection is substanitially better than it appears from the base.
Jan 1, 2001
- Front Side Lip Smack
Eric Johnson and I did the second ascent about two weeks after this route was put up (the chalk was still fresh). It's pretty good and well worth doing. It is a little gripper at the bulge, and a wee-bit hard for 10b, but the crack above is sweeeeet!
Mar 15, 2002
I hope the reference to p182 Rossiter's guide isn't confusing-that is where it probably would appear if we'd done this in time. We christened the rotten band THE REEF in keeping with the crag's surfing theme.
Nov 9, 2001
- Green Room, The
Can the topo be scanned and posted?
Mar 12, 2007
I found the moves over the initial bulge and up to the good protection to be about 5.8+ vs.-- as in insecure high stepping on licheny holds with a 30 ft. ledge fall. (Sounds like "vs" to me!) So I, as the Brit's like to say, "wobbled." I traversed up and right to the second bolt on Pt. Break and clipped it with a double-length runner and this gave me no rope drag problems with the rest of the route. Even with this bolt clipped 20 ft. to my right, running out the 8+ was still "s," but made me happy about not having to deal with getting absolutely wrecked if I fell. From the good pro, follow the path of least resistance leftward below a roof system and around the corner to good footholds at the lip of the reef and the crux. Stepping around the corner and bridging up the well-protected crux provides for some of the best moves in Eldo in a very wild position. I will do this route again! It might be a good idea to swing by Neptune's and take a look at the topo before setting out on this thing.
Nov 18, 2002
The reference to p182 of Rossiter's guide is to where it would probably had we done this route in time... I've found out that there is a Green Room in the Flatirons so now it's a little confusing-rather like having a SONIC YOUTH at every crag. This reference was to surfing and being in the 'tube'.
Nov 9, 2001
- Killing Fields, The
- Mind Over Matter
The climbing up to the overlap is positive and probably not harder than 5.10a; there is no protection, however. At the overlap, a crafty, well-seasoned Eldo climber with a double set of RP/HB brass nuts could find adequate protection for the next few moves, the crux (perhaps 5.11b). The upper seam has some decent gear, is a bit lichenous, slabby, delicate, and feels somewhat insecure, 5.11a, at least on the lead. An excellent lead by Ed Webster in 1983.
Dec 18, 2002
- Neato
On TR this felt like 10. It would be hard to place gear since the middle section has no good stances.
Jan 1, 2006
- On the Crest
- Outer Limbits
On TR, on the upper part I went further right than Tony apparently did, to a vague crack that is left of the crack of Neato. This seemed like the obvious thing to do, but looking down from above, it looks like the original line may have gone straight up the face. The way I did it, the crux was the starting moves at about hard 10, and then maybe easy 10 after that.
Jan 1, 2006
Sorry, the route is just to the RIGHT of 5.8 crack. It is to the left of a "crack" I call "The Pinch Flake. (5.9)" -T.
Nov 14, 2001
- Point Break
A huge thank you to Greg for the new anchors.
Sep 17, 2017
Thanks for the work upgrading the hardware, Greg. Great route; a bit of a spicy pickle in places.
Mar 13, 2016
Yup. Finally all done.
Feb 28, 2016
Excellent job on the maintenance, thank you. Have the protection bolts been updated, too?
Feb 28, 2016
Cut seven layers of tat off the 4.5" belay/rappel tree. The tree creaked audibly when weighted and was scarred by the slings. Installed two stainless bolts with double rings a few feet to the right. The summit has a large dead tree that used to be an anchor. There is a vertical glue-in anchor now that works either direction - rap the route or rap to the block at the base of Gambit where the trail is nice.
Feb 27, 2016
I would probably give this climb a 5.11a (5.9s) rating. There are 20ft runouts on 5.8-5.9 face climbing on positive holds on both pitches. The 5.11a pitch only needs a set nuts and a few small cams, if you combine the last two pitches. The crux face stays a little wet a few days after a snow. This climb has some of the best runout 5.9 face climbing in the Park.
Dec 16, 2005
This is one of my favorite Eldo climbs. It combines the classic heady Eldo 10d pitch and an airy sporty last pitch. It is a must do underrated climb in Eldo. The 10d pitch took a bomber #3 Camalot right after you get all sketched out pulling on the loose block. Also a yellow Alien size is crucial in the 10d pitch. If you are going to go to the intermediate belay before the 11a pitch, I think there is a possible block to sling, also a 3.5/4 Camalot would be useful at this belay.
Mar 7, 2005
This route is now one of my all time favorites. My partner and I did it in two pitches - easily - with out rope drag. And rappeled twice using a 70 meter rope. The second pitch is definitely the mental crux, requiring gear placements on sustained 5.10 climbing.
Oct 11, 2004
Without question: P2 (the 10+) is the hardest, if you are leading. Be prepared to hang around on Eldo trad funk stuff and place Eldo trad funk gear and then do Eldo trad funk moves.Make sure you have your head on. The upper pitch is excellent, though a much easier lead. Superb position.
May 23, 2004
It is also possible to rap with one 60m rope from the bolts atop the .11a pitch. Throw the rope to the south and aim for an obvious tree above Pipeline Bonecrusher and Spicoli. It's a stretch to reach the tree, and another stretch to reach the ground from there. The tree had good slings with rings on it last year, but they might need to be replaced/updated.
Dec 22, 2003
3 stars due to the sustained nature of pitch 2, the really fun 5.9 face, and the airy final arête. I thought that on the lead the 10d second pitch was much harder than the 11a last pitch. Great link-up?: Point Break to Tiger Balm Arête to Ginseng Junkie.
Dec 21, 2003
Gear: Next time my gear list would be: #00 and #0 Metolius TCUs, double set of Aliens green to red, #0.5, #0.75, #1 Camalots. #0.5 to #1.5 offset Friends. Astro nuts (or brass HB's), aluminum HB offsets, approximately 8 long slings, lots of draws, 70m rope; climb double rope on pitch 3 and maybe on pitch 2. Pitch 2 has good gear all the way, every 5' or less. I placed two mid-sized brass nuts (Astros) in the dihedral, both are very good. If you don't like brass, bring a screamer. Above these (and one of the hardest moves) you get a good green Alien on the left. Be ready, because it's hard to stop there. The only slightly runout section is between the last two bolts, and here you can protect on the left. You want to step left anyway (I did) to climb just left of the last bolt. Step a little further left and you can get a nut (and a good rest, finally). Further left you can get a small cam which, with a triple sling, will hold the nut in place. All this is not really necessary, though, because once you move left, you can reach big holds that lead to just left of the last bolt. On the last pitch, the 5.9 face takes a bunch of gear in addition to the widely spaced bolts. It's slightly runout, but the holds are very positive, and there are many good stances to rest and get gear. You can lower off the two bolts above the 11a with a 70m rope. A 60m won't reach. The rope runs over the pebbly low-angle slab below the anchor bolts, so it might be better to rap.
Dec 21, 2003
excellent route with great exposure. P2 is protected well through the cruxes, but a little spicy between. fixed pin is good, and a few TCUs and small nuts protect the rest. BOMBER #8 stopper starting the dihedral above the first .10 crux. An RP and #1 TCU is nice while you get to the next couple of bolts. Starting P3, above the tree, the bolt is commiting to clip, a green alien two feet under the bolt at the lip eases the mind when going after the clip. Good #7 stopper and yellow TCU above that on your way to the next bolt. The belay at the end of this 'pitch' would be better with a #3 camalot, #11 stopper, and orange alien... uncomfortable hanging belay... OR link the pitch with the crux pitch as mentioned previously. There are 4 bolts on the upper headwall/arete crux not two, but the first one is a scary/committing clip reaching off of the ramp. Grab the lip jug with your left hand, and go-go-gadget arms for the clip. The route is a clever line through natural sequences. awesome position and small rack. 5.9 and easier climbing is runout but solid. more beta to chew on...
Sep 2, 2003
Did this route yesterday and had a blast on it. Definately do it in 2 pitches though-- 4 belays would be overkill. Make sure to take measures to avoid rope drag on the first pitch (really the 1st and 2nd combined). The final pitch is great fun, especially with the (well protected) runout before the steep section at the top. It's definately a rope stretcher and we only had a foot or two to spare, but it's a worthwhile pitch. Instead of rapping off we decended via the gully to the climber's right. It saved us the hassle of bringing up two ropes, and only took a few minutes to get down.
Mar 16, 2003
This is a two pitch route. Unless you had to cut your 60 M rope in half, there is no reason to belay 4 times. In fact, why is there a bolt anchor on top of the 1st (book) pitch? It's 40' off the ground for cryin' out out loud.....I don't know, sometimes I get frustrated with Rossiter's breakdown of pitches. Anyway......I'd say the best way to find the start is to look for the weakness 15-20' right of the big, lichenous, right-facing corner up and right from the 5.10 crack. Aim for the vague rt.-facing corner with chalked holds above a small tree. This corner goes at 5.10 with some great moves, some garbage rock, and devious gear placements (in order to avoid the cracks behind detached blocks), and the face above is reasonably well protected (although somewhat contrived) up to the tree ledge. The next two (book) pitches combine easily by putting a shoulder-length sling on the bolt before the climactic overhanging prow. This prow has 4 bolts of its own, which makes it a pure sport-pitch by Eldo standards. Super fun climbing the whole way........I recommend it highly. Just don't get the idea that it's a long route: two 150' pitches (more or less). Good stuff.......
Feb 7, 2002
The route is really fun, and generally high quality. The 5.8+ roof seemed to be + something or another. My partner who on-sighted the sustained 5.10 pitch pulled on a biner to get through the 5,8+ roof. I suspect largly due to her height/reach. The 5.9 pitch thereafter is sparsely bolted for a few stretches, but is not runout at the harder moves. To run this pitch through the 5.11a pitch and completely to the top, you should have some 2' slings to keep the rope straight, place very little wandering gear (keep the rope straight) and use a 60M rope. I had ~10-15M left on my 70M rope and not much drag when I climbed those two pitches as one. I can imagine that a 50M would reach the last set of anchors, but not the summit. The "middle" belay was not terribly inviting anyway, and would require gear bigger than the "rack to 2 inches" description would have you carry.
Nov 12, 2001
I don think the start of this route is that hard to find. Just go to the slab uphill and east from 5.8 crack/5.10 crack/Rincon area. The first pitch is more of a groove than a ramp, pretty low-angle, and it passes a small roof near its top. The belay (at two bolts) is just below and to the right of the lower landmark of the route: a shallow, right-facing, slightly left-leaning and steep corner, which emerges from an overhanging area (the rotten band, with bolt, that Pat mentions). Everything else around it looks too hard to climb anyway. This second pitch is really steep, varied, and exciting.
Jan 1, 2001
- Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts
I was a regular climbing partner of Alec Sharp, Chris Piesker, and Christian Griffith back in the day. This climb was first done by Chris Piesker and Christian Griffith in 1980. Alec did many new climbs in Eldo, but this wasn't one of them.
May 23, 2017
Ken, tough to imagine a FFA without RPs. Great route.
Mar 5, 2008
I lead this in Nov. of '06 and found the gear quite adequate. I placed an orange, green, blue and black Alien on the lower section and even fell on the black Alien a few times from the small roof. So, I think the route is pretty safe with the new micro cams that are available.
Mar 22, 2007
My understanding is that Alec Sharp actually gave this route the name Raccoon Soup after he did it in the early eighties (?1981). I climbed with both Chris Peisker and his partner Coral Bowman when they were here in the '70s and hadn't heard that Chris had done this route but he certainly may have. Both Chris and Coral were excellent climbers and neat people who were a major part of the climbing community while they were here. Ultimately who did a route first really doesn't make a big difference to me, having good quality climbing available is the important thing. Personally I'd take a a repeat of a great route over the first ascent of a so-so route anyday.
Aug 27, 2004
It's my understanding that [Chris] Peisker first led this stellar pitch in 77. I suspect the differences of opinion regarding the difficulty and protection ultimately reduces to height. Climbers 5'8" and under will have a difficult time placing the RPs at the roof. For me, the placements are either blind or difficult, time consuming and skin shredding. If the placements at the roof blew as you pulled the crux, you might be hurt in the fall, although probably not badly.
May 10, 2004
[Definitely] no reason for the 's' rating lots of gear, only complaint is that it is short.
Nov 3, 2003
Don't be put off by the above comment if your considering leading this gem. I found a good stance for every placement and to top it off the gear is really obvious (small cams and RPs). This was probably my 5th or 6th 5.11 in Eldo and didn't feel that bad for the grade. Its reputation makes it out to be far harder than it actually is.
Dec 4, 2002
I'd give it an PG-13 on the current scale because it is hard to hang in there and make the placements. The stances are not all positive and I think that it's hard to fiddle in the gear.
Oct 8, 2002
Whatever name you choose to use, this is an excellent and sustained route. The only thing that has changed about this route is that, with modern gear, it should not even get a severe rating. At every crux there is at least one bomber RP or small cam placement that would hold a good whipper. A definite must do and a classic lead in my book.
Feb 5, 2002
I watched someone lead this route today (3/4/01). It was very impressive. The route apparently had good gear cause he sewed it up like I sewed up 5.10 crack, with seven pieces including a cam or two!!
Jan 1, 2001
- Reveley-Hunter
Yes, you are right. I checked Levin and Rossiter's books, and Briggs' variation stays in the initial corner until traversing left at the final angled ledge to the anchor. The description is for the Revely-Hunter route. I think a G rating is a bit optimistic, but I am glad you felt secure on it!
Sep 18, 2014
This pitch is excellent and well-protected! I've avoided it for years due to the R rating, but I was able to place gear almost anywhere I wanted. It was definitely NOT runout or dangerous in any way. I used a few small cams from 00ish-0.4, doubles 0.4-1, and one #2 and a ton of small nuts/RPs. We combined this with 5.10 crack, and with the use of long slings on the highest tree above 5.8 crack, I was easily able to keep the rope away from the poison ivy and didn't have crazy rope drag. Interestingly, Levin's guide calls this exact line the Reveley-Hunter and rates it 10c PG-13. I'd call it 10b G. Get on it, it's very worth your time. I like it better than the standard second pitch of Rincon.
Sep 17, 2014
- Rincon
I climbed this route with my girlfriend yesterday (5/29/17). It's a beautiful climb and every pitch was full value. I rarely comment on mtn.project, but I wanted to let people know that I broke a (potentially) relevant hold in the middle of the 3rd pitch crux move. After placing a 0.75 and a #3 at the base of the bulge (before clipping the fixed pin) I was stemming with my left hand high on the fin feature on the left side of the dihedral. There was a very helpful crimp/3 finger catch on the back side of the fin that broke off. Thankfully my gear held, and I was able to complete the move on my next go. This is my first time on the route, so I'm not sure how if I was doing the move as efficiently as possible, but it certainly felt harder for me without the left hand 'catch'. 3rd pitch was incredible but the broken hold didn't surprise me as most of the pitch felt relatively dirty/chossy.
May 30, 2017
I finally sacked up and led this one today. I got the onsight. I have just started leading low 11s this past year. In comparison, I would say that this one is easier than Zip Code or Practice Climb. I wasn't too worried about the pin as I put about 4 cams in right below the pin. The crux is really one or two moves to a really bomber fingerlock. Yes you could put a bomber nut a foot above the pin or just pull the crux on this jug. Then really fun climbing to the top. I highly recommend this route, and I believe it is really safe.
May 23, 2017
Maybe I just wasn't climbing well, but this does not seem like a good introductory 5.11 for Eldo. Seems very hard at the grade. The pin seems ok, but it certainly isn't bomber. This is a heads up and difficult lead.
Sep 15, 2014
That #10 stopper a foot above the pin on the crux is BOMBER. Well-protected crux me thinks.
Jul 7, 2013
I'd say first pitch is exquisite but a sandbag, certainly harder than "modern" 5.9+ ratings. Second pitch is really nice, too, so even if you are not doing the 5.11 pitch, don't just rap after the first pitch. There are 2 pins and a bolt with rap rings at the end of 2nd pitch. You can just BARELY make it to the bolts and chains above 5.8 crack with a 60m rope.
Aug 21, 2012
Climbed this while it was snowing. Linked the first two which was nice, because it warmed me up to lead the third. My opinion on the gear: it's adequate enough. There is bomber gear below the pin. You could break your ankle if you fell before that. You could also be fine. The pin seemed adequate for what would be a light toprope fall if you fell after clipping it. By the time I got close to being above it, I was able to fit a nut in. It's a little rattly, but it would certainly hold a fall. I'd say this isn't a bad climb for a beginning 5.11 leader in Eldo.
Apr 20, 2011
To say that Jim Erickson has an ego is nothing short of hilarious. You would be hard pressed to find a more humble man. I met him a while ago and said that I really enjoyed the routes he has put up. In response, he just shook his head, looked down and said, "I haven't really done anything." Come on! It doesn't get more humble than that.
Feb 20, 2011
The first pitch is much harder than 5.9+. Grades should reflect reality, right? Not a bunch of old dude's egos.
Aug 4, 2010
I got my redpoint last Wednesday on this route. While trying to make moves above the crux pin, I also considered putting something in the crack above. But then, suddenly... I felt my right fingers in that same crack slip.... right into a bomber Indian Creek style Ring-lock. I knew then, it was safe to proceed without futher protection!
Nov 16, 2009
Shame on me for not doing this climb earlier, but all the spray and hype scared me off. The pin is fine. If you have seen the pin on C'est La Vie, then you know what a bad pin is. This pin is nowhere near the catastrophe that the C'est La Vie pin is. I did not use it because as far as 11a's go, this thing is soft. Stem all the way up and reach high left for a bomber lock and pull - all done. I would say you don't even need to place the nut (a la TB). Way easier than Super Slab, Art's Spar, Grandmother's, Sooberb, Tagger. Get up there and do it. I felt the first pitch was the hardest part of the climb.
Oct 5, 2009
Climbed this for the first time the other day, what a fun route. In regards to the piton, this was my first .11 lead, and I didn't feel too bad just clipping the pin and going for it. But if you don't feel good about it, as others have stated you can stem up a few moves and place a stopper with the pin at your chest. A bolt here would definitely detract from this climb, and is not needed. And I would recommend to anyone who doesn't want to lead the third pitch to at least climb the first two, both classic pitches and the 5.8 pitch is one of the best of the grade I've been on. Definitely the best pitch on this route (note: I didn't climb pitches 4 or 5).
Jan 23, 2009
A few comments on the higher pitches: P3: Yes, you can definitely place something above the pin, although it's a bit strenuous, so be ready to act quickly. I was able to squeeze in a Metolius cam in the higher of the two finger pods in the dihedral (I had my hand in the lower). P4: Worth doing - it starts as a slightly overhanging, red rock, shallow, left-facing dihedral (behind the giant boulder) - there's a bolt on the left side. When the seam ends and overhanging bulges begin move left to a ledge, you'll see a tree with slings on the left. While the climbing at the top is quite mellow, the protection is not the best (thin RPs). (P5): Do Brevitata (you have to walk left for 100ft first) - fun, short, and fairly safe.
Apr 13, 2008
Did pitches 1, 2, and 3 today. I agree with Tony B. Is is quite safe. I am an aspiring 11 leader, and I felt fine on it today although I did fall while turning the crux. It's a relatively easy stem up to the nut placement that is completely bomber. Don't be scared off, because it's really not that bad. A bolt would certainly detract from this climb.
Jun 3, 2007
Pitch 1 is definitely more towards the 5.10 range. Compare it to the so-called 5.10 crack directly right of pitch 1. I felt way more secure on that one. No, Rincon pitch 1 is definitely old school 5.9, which translates to 5.10 or 5.10+. Nonetheless, today we saw one party lead it with only six pieces of gear. Very smooth. It's also notable that Steve Dieckhoff, one of the staunchest trads out there, thought replacing the crux pin with a bolt was a good idea.
Oct 29, 2006
A note if you are planning on quitting after the first pitch: I did not see any tree with slings on it, but it is possible to do an exposed traverse about 30 ft right (you can get in some pro to protect the traverse if you want) and rap off the bolts that serve Five Ten Crack and Raccoon Soup.
Sep 18, 2006
Dear A.C.: Perhaps you are simply a coward, or maybe just not skilled enough to climb at this level. Either way.... As for your attempted insults, I didn't climb Rincon in 1995, but I did climb it in 1996, 1998, 2003, and 2004. Each time, regardless of who lead it, a bomber stopper was placed. And why would I skip a fixed pin? Shoot, I'll clip it, why not? I'm not trying to prove anything, I'm just climbing a route. And if I get to scared to accept my calculated risks assocaited with available pro, I'll go climb something else or something that is already bolted. Maybe you just lack the skill to climb the route. Shoot, I've been punted from even sport climbs staring the chains in the face- it was because I was too weak, pumped, or unskilled to clip, not because they were not there. Furthermore, I don't claim that the routes are S just because I'm not good enough to get a stance. You can say the pin was not originally rusty and bent, but it would not be bent now unless it was hanging 1/2 way out in the first place, which it was. So, what do you think the pin looked like when Erikson first freed the route? L. Hamilton lead it in the '70s and said it was sketchy then, too. Like gear with like gear does not mean replacing an A2-pin with a bolt, regardless.
Jun 6, 2005
I was on Rincon Sunday the 5th of June, and I gotta say, "That pin is motherF@ing scary." If it pulls, you will land on the blocky slab below. Whether this results in you hanging upside down at the end of the rope or with a broken ankle, the odds are not in your favor. I did get good gear (red alien) 3ft above the pin, however, I had to fully (read- fully) commit to the crux before placing it. I am 6'2". Folks, the bottom line on Eldorado gear is this: it should be no scarier and no safer than it was for the first ascensionist. I guarantee that the pin was not bent or rusted for the first ascent party. Therefore, something should be done about this pin. If you read the comments by both Steve Levin and Steve Diekoff (both of whom to my knowledge only place fixed gear where safety requires and both of whom have done some of the scariest routes in Eldo) you should consider the replacement option, and at the very least- need to be careful on this route. To Tony Bubb as a final note I say, "every time you climb this route, skip the fixed gear and put in your nut as a reminder that your memory from 1995 was correct."
Jun 6, 2005
The first pitch felt more like solid 5.10 to me (but it still was an incredible pitch). I just linked the first two pitches, and decided I wasn't up to the 11a task after the feel of the first pitch.
Jun 9, 2004
Maybe that's why it get's an S then, Ken. Or maybe you didn't look at the picture or never climbed the route. In the picture, you will see that the 'blind' part is not the placement but how chocked in it is. I placed that stopper on-sight. I followed the crack with my fingers, felt a notch, and placed it. Dianne did the same thing without beta. That's 2 on-sights with 2 nuts placed, not even the same nuts, and the Gent who placed the #6 Rock sideways? Not using my beta. So what's wrong with calling that good gear? We can print that Rincon is an S, despite the bomber nut placement at the crux that has been discussed several times on this group and advise people that unless you know how to place a nut or are a solid 5.11- climber, that you should probably not be on it. Seriously, we don't need everything to be sanitized for general use.
Jun 4, 2004
If you don't like beta, you may not want to read this. After clipping the pin and putting my left hand into the hold that jams your knuckle, I struggled because I used my right hand in the hold above the left and slowly thrutched my body up onto the sloping ledge like a fish out of water. When I did it the second time, I used the left "jam" and mantled with my right hand in order to get my feet up. It was much easier mantling. Fun route.
May 29, 2004
Just to add another historical note -- I recall leading Rincon back in the mid-'70s. The crux pin was soft iron and not too good-looking even then. You wouldn't want to pitch off on it; this was a route not to try until you felt ready to bet that you could do it under control. A fat bolt there would make it a whole different experience, I think.
May 20, 2004
I think the argument that there is a "blind" nut placement that makes this route safe is one of the most illogical comment I've read on this site. Rincon is a trad climb, which means the rating is based on an on-sight ascent without any specific beta about moves or moves to place gear. So how is the on-sight climber suppose to know where the blind nut placement is? By reading site? Yea, the center of the universe right here. So place your blind nut, but don't use this excuse to justify a crappy pin. Also, the comment about missing the ledge if the pin blows. No, the ledge is ground zero. Drop a pebble and see where it lands.
May 20, 2004
TB, thank you for the beta. That pin is scary and not the easiest thing to clip. After I clipped it, I put in a cam hook just below it. I believe were IR said he got in the RP. I kept it cammed by tying a sling to the piece lower. After I had this, I had the courage to get into the higher stem and place a number six rock sideways. I didn't read TB's comments close enough and brought a number eleven Stopper. I was high enough that it wasn't blind, but was still before the crux moves. I am six feet tall. It was bomber. With the cam hook or that RP there is no need for the S rating. This was my first 5.11 onsight in Eldo and I couldn't top rope Center Route without hanging. It could be soft for Eldo.
May 2, 2004
While hanging from the good nut above the pin on my first flailing attempt to lead Rincon I found a nut placement at the top of the pin scar below the fixed pin. Yesterday, on my second flailing attempt, I placed a #7 Metolius Astro (brass, curved, flared front to back, but less radical than an HB offset). The taper in the crack is imperceptible, and the nut fits snugly. Anything bigger or smaller by even a billimeter (very small) is unlikely to work. I downclimbed and bounce tested it, and it held. The nut is easy to place, since you can place it from the low stem. It's only 5.9 to that point. I tried placing a red ballnut. I was sure it would work, but the crack gets narrow in back, preventing the ballnut from going in deep enough to seat the ball. Also tried a #00 Metolius TCU. It's just a fraction too big. So it's possible a smaller cam will work. A 4-cam unit may not seat all the cams. I'm thinking a Zero or the smallest, red, Camalot. I noticed a pin on the ledge at the start of the crux. A few feet to the right, in some vegetation, is a 1 1/4" angle straight down. Looks good. Didn't see it before. You could use this to bail from the crux. To be safe, I would rap off the pin while being belayed through the lead gear, in case the pin blows (it shouldn't unless the ledge falls off or unless it's totally rusted out--the eye looks fine). I'm thinking the danger of this climb is being exagerrated. I'm a middling climber. I have yet to onsight an Eldo 10c (not counting in the 70s in my youth). Yet I'm up on Rincon pushing my limits, perhaps beyond my limits. On the other hand, I like messing with gear and enjoy that challenge. I think the danger of a ledge fall is minimal. Up to the good nut placement you are stemming, wide. The corner is overhanging. If the pin (and any backup you may have) blows, I think you'll miss the ledge. Should be a pretty clean fall. Or does someone have experience saying otherwise?
Dec 27, 2003
I did this route again yesterday. You can get a 3-3.5" cam in (SOLID) a meter below the pin. In fact, you can put in two of them. When this is at your waist, you can clip the pin, when the pin is at your chin, you can place the stopper. A BD #10 in that placement can be described by the words "Bomber" or "text book" but anything else seems wholly inadequate to express how good it is. With a 1-foot runner the biner to clip it dangles 4" below the lip and makes a nice point for the rope if you blow it. The edge is not at all sharp. I asked my partner to photograph this placement for those who are non-believers. mountainproject.com/v/color… No bolt is needed- it would not significantly change the objective hazards of the route, only the subjective ones.Double rope techniques could help with this route if you are still nervous about the runout- that way if you "dunced" the stopper & blew the pin, you'd only fall a few feet to ctach on your cam, 'cause you wouldn't have slack out on that line. PS- this climb is hard to do on hot days in the sun- SLLLLLiiiipppppery!
Jun 23, 2003
I did this route yesterday (5/16/03). Being 5'4" I must say it was exciting to clip the pin from a comfortable stance. I suppose you could get a green Alien or stopper in about 2.5 feet behind the pin but, in my opinion, it would be after the most insecure moves through the crux (I didn't place anything there). Once you clip the pin and stem up a little more, you get a finger lock with your left hand that would require the complete detachment of your pinky for you to fall on the pin. I've wanted to do this route for a long time and waited until I felt confident climbing at such a level without the blissful security of a bolt. Please don't change the nature of this route to suit your ability; instead, strive to climb the route in a condition most similar to the original. Considering the time and effort it's taken me to reach this point with myself, I don't believe my experience would have been nearly as rewarding with a 3/8" bolt whispering sweet nothings in my ear.
May 17, 2003
Anonymoos- my opinion on the bolt vs. pin issue would not change, even if someone were to pull the pin and get hurt. If you are not up to the challenge of leading this pitch, then don't climb it... come back when you're ready. In any case, your opinion doesn't mean much if you don't sign your name.
May 13, 2003
I think we should put a frickin' bolt up there for Christ's sake. Sure it is safe for the solid 5.11 climber who will not fall...but such a climber would be safe without the piton as well. The piton was initially intended to hold a fall, now it only gets in the way of a potential tri-cam placement and provides a false sense of security. Will all of those above in favor of keeping this rusty piece of mank be able to stand behind their statements when some young aspiring .11 climber who, believing that the piton is good, attempts the move but fails, pulling the pin and consequently smashing into the rotten band below, inflicting serious injury? This route deserves a serious rating due to the fact that the "protection" at the crux is worthless. I think the piton should either be supplemented with a bolt (we could still keep the piton up there for those who think it has asthetic value or those who are too macho for bolts) or be removed so that nobody gets the idea that the crux of this route is safe.
May 12, 2003
Did the route free today on lead. This was my first time on this superb gem. Just some background, I am 6'6" and found some very nice stems running up to the crux which where very easy for my height. At the final stem, the manky bent pin is at your chest and a very bomber #10 BD nut can be placed about 1.5' above the pin. Just below the pin there is a slot for a Lowe Ball, but we didn't have one. I feet the mantle crux checks in at .11a. My partner Jim, 5'11", had no problem with the stems. He linked up the first two pitches in grand style. Hmm....A bolt to replace the pin? No. I have climbed in Eldo for 18 yrs. striving to cultivate my climbing so that I am within my limits regularly. If you are not ready to belly up to Eldo's standards on a particular route then perhaps its time to step it down a grade and put time and energy towards furthering yourself and your climbing in preparation and growth to those goals. Oh, I know the wicked lament "but that pin was bomber when Erickson and Meyers freed it." Yes indeed. And in the interim we have better shoes, gear, ropes, training regimes, etc. Looking within tends to be difficult. I concur with Steve Levin that "not every chimp gets to climb every tree".
Apr 26, 2003
We must have been the last to climb the route before Willie and JC improved the second belay; a fine idea. As for the pin, it didn't scare me any more than it did 15 years ago, however, it seems that you could get a good Lowe ball in the scar just below it. And Tony is right, you can get a good, even bomber stopper above the pin if you have the strength and presence of mind to stem high. A large wire is very secure about two feet above the pin. Having written this, I want to say that I personally don't have any objection to a bolt.
Oct 13, 2002
Hi Steve, Check with the FHRC on the proposal. It was my understanding that this had been discussed and approved. I was at the FHRC meeting regarding the pin on the Edge a few years back. Although I do believe that a little spice can add to one's climbing experience, I tend to enjoy the climbing more than the scare. A bolt at the crux will certainly change the nature of the crux and the route, but so will beating out this placement, damaging the rock, and possibly creating new jams. The pin on Rincon is good for now.
Oct 8, 2002
As part of the Celebrate Eldo and FHRC activities this past weekend, my partner, JC, and I made some discoveries and some improvements to the Rincon route. At the 2nd pitch anchor/rap station, we added a bolt. That station is now bomber with two existing pins, and a new bolt with chain links.An old #1 rp with frayed wire and tat was removed from this station. The pin at the crux of the 3rd pitch still remains. I tried to remove and replace this pin, but was unable to get it out. Before leaving the pin in place, I pounded it back in. Although this pin is bent and looks bad, I discovered that it is actually quite good (for now) and will probably hold a fall at the crux. I aborted the removal attempt because I did not want to make the situation worse by breaking the pin, or the eye of the pin, while trying to remove it. Leaving a broken pin at that location with no other replacement would be very bad. Before one tries to remove the pin, perhaps they should have the authority to place a bolt at the same location if the pin breaks. This may be a good discussion for the FHRC. IMHO, a bolt here is warranted. Since 1985, I have led Rincon many times, and I do not feel my experience on the route has been enhanced by this sketchy pin. All these routes used to be aid climbs with many more pins than remain today. This pin (like most) used to be bomber in it's day, however, as time passes, the pin placements degrade. Rust, bending, loading, freeze/thaw cycles, all contribute to the deterioration of these placements. Although I believe this pin will hold a fall (today), this pin will get worse and require further maintenance. As the pin scar gets beaten out, it will eventually be a decent finger lock, and then the nature of this crux move will be changed forever. A bolt at this location will prevent further damage to the rock and preserve the difficulty and aesthetics of this climb.
Oct 8, 2002
One of my favorite 1 pitch routes (of the few I've done) here is the "Reveley- Adams" variation to the first pitch of Rincon. What a blast! From the ledge continue up left into a reachy, airy hand traverse, round a horn to the bolts on Center rt. Also fun to run 60m from the ground to the top of the 2nd pitch of Center Route. Kind of runout, (unless a sling is draped over said horn?) but good cams at first. and crazy huge jugs. Toprope Camouflage. Flail. Gotta love it.
Aug 13, 2002
[To] avoid the crux pitch by going left around the corner and up though the rotten roof is not recommened, unless you enjoy 5.10 rotten rock roofs with a healthy supply of green and brown lichen. However, you can cut left at the belay (around the corner in a slanting hand crack) efore the crux pitch and go though a rotten roof with some good jams as well as suspect and bad flakes and this is probably no harder then .9+ or .10a and end up on the walk-[off] ledge.
Jul 19, 2002
If anybody reading these comments wants to do Rincon, go up there and try it! If you send, be proud; if you splatter because the pin in question blows, let us know and then we'll all have more info to continue this discussion with. That said, please don't put a bolt here.
Mar 25, 2002
AC: I stood in a sling clipped directly to the pin, and I had my weight distrubuted between a bad smear, the pin, and a funky cam hook. My guess is that I loaded the pin to 75 pounds at most. A wooden pin might have held that much. Best advice: Be ready for the route. Do a lot of slippery, roofy, mantely boulder problems first. Be safe. Don't whip on the pin or you'll be sorry. ...and don't aid it. Full-on aid climbing in Eldo is just plain wrong. Aiding Rincon seemed like a good idea at the time, but now I just feel like a huge gumby loser.
Mar 24, 2002
Regarding Adam's comment about the pin quality...how do you know the pin "isn't that bad"? Did you haul 1000 lbs of weights up there to test the pin quality? Did you shock load it with a 180lb weight on an 8 foot fall (the crux mantling part comes with the pin nearly at your feet)? My guess is no, so any comment you make about the pin quality is pure speculation. The best info I have is that a 225 pound person (see Matt White's comments) aided it...if he waited the rope (i.e. a 2to1 pulley) then the pin held 450lbs of weight. I also know from experience that the pin sticks out a bit and is bent slightly downward. Telling people to go up there and just go for it is bad beta. Sure if you're solid at Eldo 11a then you should give it a try but know that it would not be a good idea to take a whipper on the pin. Incidently, has anyone taken this whipper or know of anyone who has recently?
Mar 22, 2002
I know this is a matter of opinion, but the pin at the crux of the third pitch is not really that bad, especially considering that it is literally at your waist when you are pulling the crux. I would be extremely surprised if it failed. If you are considering not doing the route because of the pin, then you are missing a great time for no reason.
Mar 21, 2002
For those not at home on 11a (like me), if you don't mind losing out on the potential onsight of the crux moves, I suggest climbing to the pin and clipping a screamer to it. Weight the pin slowly by stepping in a sling, or stem to reach that high nut. Clip a screamer to the nut as well. Lower or downclimb back to the cam and then climb smoothly through the crux. This technique is questionable in terms of style, but it may be the best idea for average Joe climbers who have never done those funky moves at the crux. Also, the pin did not flex very much when I aided through the moves, and I push 225 pounds with a full rack. But the clock is definitely ticking on the pin. I hope Eldo locals and the FHRC can come to an agreement before someone does a high-speed faceplant (or backplant) onto the slab. How about this for a compromise:?? Fix a nut with a long sling or cable somewhere above the crux - maybe at that blind placement Tony mentions. Make the sling just long enough so it can be clipped from the same stance now used to clip the pin. That way people can decide for themselves if they want extra protection for the crux moves. This is not a perfect solution, but it avoids the options of making a larger pin scar or adding a bolt, and allows the route to be climbed in classic old-school style. Any talk about adding bolts makes me (and lots of others) very uncomfortable. If I know my history - there is precendent in Eldo for climbing routes equipped with pre-placed long slings.
Feb 18, 2002
I remember seeing the nut placement, but I had already commited to the crux at that point. From the stance just below the pin you could probably place a blind nut *IF* you know the placement is there because I don't recall being able to see it from the stance. Good luck trying to place it once in the crux though. The key to the move (if you're solid at the grade) is to get a psychological boost by convincing yourself the pin is bomber. That being said, you should also be smart and ready to grab the draw clipped to the pin should you feel you're about to pitch (it certainly holds body weight). Part of the character of this route is wondering about the quality of the pin and using your best judgement on whether to go for it or aid it. No bolt please!
Feb 12, 2002
But I got good gear folks! My partner for the second time I did it was 5'4" and she did too. I vote no on the bolt. Let's not degrade our standards. Not only did the route no have a bolt, but there is nearby gear available. It's certainly not that people aren't doing the route all the time anyway. The really 'S' rated part is the bad rock in the 5.easier (I dunno, 5.8) section down lower. As previously stated, there is a decent nut overhead for the crux move. I think that this climb is certainly a controversy, and worth some discussion, but certainly it can be protected even without the pin (altough I like it better with the pin, I admit. Were the pin to ever be replaced again, might I suggest a sawed-off pin so it doesn't protrude so far and lever so hard? Yes, a bolt can be "removed and covered" but once it is there, it never will be. PU238 has a half-life too, and someday radioactive waste will be harmless- though the human race will never see that day.
Feb 12, 2002
I think I was the last person to replace this pin (@crux) and I did the best I could but it's not in that far. I am generally in favor of preserving the flavor of a route but I'm also reluctant to see pin scars grow larger, therefore I think a bolt here is appropriate. A pin scar can't be fixed but a bolt can be removed and the hole camoflauged.
Feb 11, 2002
This issue has come up many times in the Eldorado Fixed Hardware Committee, and to my knowledge they have NEVER voted to put a bolt where an old piton once was. However, I agree with Steve that such replacements should be OK'd if the piton cannot be replaced and the climb becomes much more dangerous without it. But not all old farts agree.
Feb 11, 2002
Casey Bernal - If many people are going to climb this route, why have a bad fixed piece as your only protection piece for the crux move? If there is going to be a fixed piece there, why not make it a good one? Whereas bolts are (usually) bomber, a new pin might be a good fix for this route and others like it. Replacing fixed gear doesn't necessarily change the nature of the route when it was first established, because a 20 year old pin is much different from one placed yesterday. Not that the pins have to be replaced frequently, but some of the fixed gear in Eldo is getting ridiculously OLD. On some routes it would be much nicer if the pins were taken out if there is a possibility for good clean gear in its place. I do not feel that everything should be a sport climb, in fact I am far from it, but it makes no sense to have old bad fixed gear that you have to rely on in case of a fall.
Feb 11, 2002
Most would agree that very few classic routes in Eldorado should have protection updates, especially if they are still seeing action. Placing a bolt where a dicey pin has existed for years reduces the route and reduces the experience. Selfishly I'd love to see a fat bolt at the Rincon crux, because I haven't yet had the sack to go see what the 'dicey' pin looks like. But softening Rincon would reduce the satisfaction I look forward to on the day I'm feeling ready to tackle the route. What about pin replacement, where possible? I'm curious about the prevailing opinion on this. Better than a bolt, or ultimately more destructive? Wasn't this done on Over the Hill? As a side note, the ring pin on the Northcutt might be old, but it is solid - I've witnessed good falls onto it.
Oct 29, 2001
You can place a pretty good blind nut up above the pin from a good stance, prior to doing 'the move.' I did it the first time on the route, and Dianne (my 5'4" partner) did it the second time, on in our leads in 1998 and 1996 We both clipped the pin and then got in a high stem, felt in the crack above the overhang for a slot, picked up a nut (I think I tossed in a #10 BD & my partner a #11 offset HB) and placed & clipped it. After that you can 'verify' the nut by Braille and then do the moves. And it is BOMBER, as in TEXT BOOK. It's not a death fall even if you failed the nut and pin anyway. Twin ropes would be good for this so that if the highest piece failed you wouldn't get all the extra slack back, but we both did it on single lines. The route is frequently climbed. If the pro were so bad that nobody ever climbed it, then I'd keep my mouth shut, but I feel like there should be routes to practice on and routes to aspire to. At the moment Rincon is one of the latter. A solid bolt at the waist at the crux would change it to a 'practice route' and completely change its nature. So here's something to consider when you think about bolting it: Was the "bad" pin bad when the route was first freed as well? Are you changine the nature of what was first freed when the pin was already old? Do you have in mind "rebolting" it like Rosy Crucifixion got rebolted? I did Rosy before and after it was "rebolted." It was called rebolting, but really it was retrobolted. The fact is that the gear is different, not just replaced. If that is what you have in mind, then after you rebolt Rincon, go do Calypso and Bastille Crack and the Yellow Spur. Not all of the pins are so great there either.
Oct 29, 2001
Run the first two pitches together--with a 200 foot rope it makes a classic long pitch, with plenty of rope to spare. You don't need a huge rack either. As for the preceding comment, why not just replace the old pin with a new one? Tom Isaacson
Sep 7, 2001
The pin at the crux has never been an A1 placement, and was not an A1 placement for the FFA way back when. As it stands now Rincon is a "safe" lead for someone able to climb 11a without falling, someone able to reverse the moves and retreat, or someone able to aid through. It is probably not a safe lead for someone pushing things and taking repeated out-of-control falls. Eventually fixed pins will need to be replaced. If a new pin does not work in the old placement, no other gear is available, and the pin protects a crux from which a fall would cause injury, placing a bolt sounds logical. That may apply to Rincon at some point.
Aug 31, 2001
The fixed pin protecting the 5.11 crux is way scary. The one time I attempted to lead this pitch ('98) the frickin' thing was sticking out at least an inch, bent and OLD looking (does anyboy even know how long it's been there...pre clean gear?). You can clip it with a long reach from below and it's barely at your waist when you're about over the crux, but the whole show is on that one manky pin. You can't back it up and the previous piece is a body length below in a pod where the rotten slab kicks up to vertical. If that pin pulled on a fall it is likely that you would be seriously injured falling onto the rotten slab...or maybe not...but I wouldn't want to be the first to test the blap factor on that one. So I played anonymous coward (which I'm really good at) and backed off. Downclimbing awayfrom the crux back through the rotten band wasn't to hard you'd probably have to leave a cam to lower from there. And there are bail slings at the anchor. A 60M rope will just barely reach the little tree on top of the lower slab. Don't let me discourage y'all from giving it a go for it's an all time Eldo classic. Really just a boulder problem crux. If it wasn't for that shitty pin this route would be one of the mildest intros to the grade in the Canyon and a fun multi-pitch route to boot. I'll pobably rot in hell for saying it but I wish people would agree to replace that pin with a bolt.
Aug 23, 2001
Normally, I don't comment on routes where I did not onsight the crux pitch. Anyway, my partner led the 3rd pitch, wigged and weighted the pin. He said it shifted and I figured I should let you all know. Since life is cheap on top rope, I had no problem with this pitch, but wouldn't lead it if I knew the pin sucked and hadn't been on it before. I led the 1st 2 pitches, they are safe, and you can get to the ground from the anchors at the top of the 2nd if you decide not to do P3.
Aug 5, 2001
The first pitch of this climb is beautiful and good, but not the whole route! After climbing the first .9+ crack and setting up and anchor with #3 Camalots, continue climbing straight up the huge dihedral that involves lots of good and not too hard stemming (5.8/9). There are lots of fixed pins on this pitch, but bring the gear as well. Belay from slings on a fixed two-pin anchor. The third pitch is the crux. Climb up through one of Eldos notorious broken/rotten bands(5.8 s). It is rated s because of its rotten nature and loose rock, not because of lack of gear. After that place a good Camalot in a pod and stem like a madman on a pretty blank slab to reach a fixed pin, which protects the crux move. Clip the pin and pull 2 hard moves over the slabby bulge (5.11a/b). Continue on to the ramp and belay (5.7). From here you can either walk off to the North(left), walk and then rap to the south(right), or climb a last pitch, which by the looks of it, is not very popular. This pitch starts right above the belay and goes at 5.9. I didn't do it, we walked off. So, there is the beta for the whole route. Get out there and give it a go since this route is well protected and not too hard for its grade.
Jan 1, 2001
- Rincon Dink
William, I've never climbed the route, and as such probably should have kept my mouth shut, so to speak. However, I am inclined, for some reason, to chime in when anything pertains to fixed protection. I have real issues, most likely personal, with pitons as fixed pro. They are unreliable and, in my opinion, do way more damage to the rock than a bolt. I would hope that the piton is not replaced. And I believe, under the current Eldo restrictions, this can be done without approval. IF someone has a strong interest in this climb, it would be great to pursue a bolt for the fixed protection if natural gear is not possible and if fixed protection is actually needed in this spot (ie. the nature of the climb is significantly altered without it). My unsolicited 2 cents Chad Oh, and I wanted to state that I didn't think your apology was necessary in any way ,shape, or form. The piton was bunk, as most of the are.
Apr 21, 2004
Chad, you bring up an interesting point. Should gear essential to a climber's safe passage be replaced if pulled on an obscure route? As I said, this route seems about as popular as To RP or Not To Be. Given the first ascentionist, should the FHC consider preserving the gear on this route for historical purposes? I highly doubt a ballnut would fit in the scar as blades are very thin. I think the only way to protect this route it to either replace the pin or climb it on toprope. To all: I'd like to keep this thread local to the route so it doesn't get lost in the spray of the Fixed Hardwear thread, but if your comments pertain to this situation, I'd like to think they are welcome in the side comment area.
Apr 21, 2004
No need to apologize. Fixed pins are dubious at best. I hope it doesn't get replaced. If a ballnut works, great. If not, a bolt should replace the fixed pro if it is neccessary.
Apr 20, 2004
As stated, I took a 40 foot whip here today. VERY scary. Do not climb this route unless you are extremely confident on hard 5.10's and don't mind running it out a bit. The reason my fall was so great was due to the fact that my fall pulled out an old knifeblade. I approached the variation a bit differently; I climbed up to 10' below Rincon's infamous suspect piton then traversed directly right into the 'trough.' After clipping the knifeblade, I moved up approximately 15 feet where I faltered and fell, blowing out the old gear and swinging over to my aliens that I mentioned in the description. Query: Does anyone know to whom this fixed gear belonged? I have an irking feeling it was Derek Hersey's. It was hammered into the bottom and south-side of the shallow trough's seam and has faded red paint near the eye. Any information concerning this piece would be much appreciated. To all approaching this climb (the rare as the lichen's abundance suggests lack of activity): DO NOT RELY ON THE FIXED GEAR! My sincere apologies for the inadvertent removal of a crucial piece. I don't think RPs will fit in the scar, so come prepared. Again, I apologize. Please direct any concerns about this act my way. Thank you,~Wm
Apr 19, 2004
- Rincon Light
I do not recommend pitch 3. It's a traverse through a choss pile and is difficult to protect, but more important, there is a high likelihood of dislodging soccerball-sized rocks onto people at the base of the crag. You could kill someone.
Dec 31, 2016
- Rinodina
Definitely adventure climbing in Eldo...Dan G. combined the first two pitches, and we were apparently off route. He ended up climbing just right of a very small tree/bush (his only pro in 40 feet) through a nasty rotten band up to a small, right-facing dihedral. He traversed right up the ramp from there to join the last section of Point Break. Not terribly hard climbing but extremely run out and very rotten. Probably R/X given that you would hit the slab below if you fell. Rope drag was the worst I have ever seen - easily 40-60 lbs (I belayed the third in our group). I would break it into two if I ever did it again. The pitch 3 roof was more tricky than difficult. Acceptable gear might hold and might keep you off of the ramp if it holds. Once you figure out the feet and commit, the moves aren't that hard. After you pull the roof, you can get some questionable gear, and then about 20 feet farther right you get two bomber placements. The "bolt" is an artifact, although it seemed good for its age and the fact that it was a 1/4 incher. All in all, I would give the route 1 star for quality of climbing; however, the runout on pitch 2 through the rotten band will keep me from climbing this again.
Oct 1, 2012
Combining P1-2 was difficult for my partner (lots of rope drag) and took a full 60m. I suggest belaying below the rotten band as Levin describes in the guidebook. He found a good belay just below the P3 roof (on the face below the ledge) that helped make the roof a bit safer to lead. I found reasonable small gear below the P3 roof, and a 0.5 Camalot at the lip. Nonetheless, I agree with Tony - the roof is a fright-fest and felt like 10- to me. Getting established to the right is the crux - after you've committed to the move. I pulled a 6" square x 1" thick plate off while searching for a hold. Very unnerving. The bolt is an old rusty 1/4" that I wouldn't place much faith in (replacement anyone?). There is some good gear on this pitch, but it is spicy. P4 is solid, with good gear, until the traverse L to the Pt Break belay, where a fall would result in a nasty swing back into the dihedral. Overall, P1 & 2 are bombs, the roof is hard and scary, but the position and climbing above that are quite good.
Mar 26, 2012
- Spicoli
A great little route. I agree, though. The climbing is techy and strenuous without prior knowledge. My partner and I did the low crux differently and both were hanging on for dear life. I did not feel I read the sequence properly but am not clear how I would make it more efficient. It felt more difficult than 11b, to me...but that's Eldo :)
Nov 28, 2015
This is a good route. For an opinion on rating. I think the submitted rating of 11b is a bit low unless you have previous knowledge of the route. Routes should be rated for the on sight not after you know the moves & have been on them. I have seen several strong partners fully capable of flashing 11c end up not flashing this route. It seems to be hard for folks to see the correct moves on this first time up and if you are not strong melt down at the middle crux. But that's okay let's keep the standards in Eldo from sinking to Boulder Canyon levels.
Jan 9, 2004
Initially, I too thought that Spicoli was more difficult than moderate 5.11. However, most of the perceived dificulty may arise from the inobvious moves. It seemed hard to read and as a result it was easy to move into the wrong sequence. Done without any of the errors, no move seemed harder than moderate 5.11, even the roof move. I would also concur with the notion of three cruxes, with the middle being more like 5.10+. Moving over the roof is probably solid 5.11 and the early crux (3rd clip) is a bit easier, but still 5.11. Overall, Spicoli has a lot of continuity. If you can hang out long enough to do the moves correctly, and not get suckered off line, it would tick in at mid 5.11 - as advertised.
Dec 23, 2003
I think the white tape you see in that photo is on a proposed route just left of Spicoli. The proposal was pulled due, I think, to negative feedback during the review process. Spicoli sure seemed harder than .11b to me, especially for the onsight (.11c/d).
Dec 22, 2003
Take a look at the beta photo for the route "point break". The photo was taken before the bolts were in place. You can see some white tape where the bolts were palced.
Dec 22, 2003
I came across this fun route while walking off of Rincon, and spent some time on it. It's tricky because it's easy to go the "wrong way" in a few spots--Don't go too far left at bolt 2--At bolt 4 go left at .9 or up at .10--Staying left of bolt 5 is about .10-, right is .10+. The moves over the final roof are very exciting and the finish seemed fine to me. I didn't see any "loose" holds but several flakes are fragile. I made it down with a 55m rope after unclipping all the draws. The route sure looks a lot harder from the ground than it actually is. Steep, interesting and fun. Good stuff. C.E.
Jul 23, 2002
Alex said this was a fun line, and he's right. I took a good little whipper tiptoeing on a portable foothold. The finish is a little goofy.
May 23, 2002
- Toprope Left of Spicoli
pretty nice route, but there is gear, and it is totally able to lead
Dec 23, 2004
- Warp Riders
- Rincon - L of Center Route
- Aerial Bondage
- Aerial Book
Such a good pitch! Led this today as one pitch and thought the corner was comparable to OTH. I have a lot of small steel nuts that fit very well in the seam, so I don't think that's where it rates a PG-13. The traverse over to the finger crack from the 1st pitch belay was easy, but that's where the "no fall zone" is for me.
Mar 21, 2017
I think this pitch definitely deserves a PG-13 rating. This is far from sewn up through the crux. It is committing and insecure climbing above small gear. Even when you get the jug on the left in the dihedral, there is another 10 feet of .10a with slick feet and no pro. Probably low probability for injury in a fall off the stemming crux, but this is no clip up! I only had one #3 RP and had to punch it above a so so #2. Classic Eldo climbing, one of the nicest .11a pitches in the canyon.
Dec 24, 2016
Linking both pitches up with the top of Aerospace was one of the best single rope length linkups I have done in Eldo. A single rope rap with an 80m from the anchors on top of Aerospace will exactly reach the ground at the base of P1. P1 felt pretty safely sewn up with a 0.5 C4, a #4 stopper, and 4 RPs in the upper dihedral (2 #3, 1 #2, 1 #1). I didn't even use a ballnut. If you have small RPs, this is a pretty safe, PG lead as you will not be more than a couple moves above your gear at the crux. Using long runners will allow the rope to run almost straight up through the P2 finger crack. The 5.8+ face climbing above P2 is pretty exciting as there are 2 bolts in 50 feet.
Dec 14, 2014
Definitely a one pitch climb, hardly runout use a 70, pitching it out is just jacking off since you already did the serious climbing in the corner, classic.
May 21, 2012
Awesome climb. Lead each pitch separately (linking would be easy). Pitch 1 - 10a/b IMHO definitely not an R pitch, and probably not even a PG-13 pitch. The bottem section is easy and protectable with 2, 3, 4, and/or 5 (I used a 2 & 4). Then base of the stemming section can be protected with an orange TCU (or similar) and a small nut. Then you launch into the stemming section I had only 1 each 2 & 3 RP and felt perfectly safe. If you had 2 or 3 # 3 RPs, this would be pretty much sewn up. Mind you you do have to climb 8 ft above this pro, but the climb eases as you go higher. Pitch 2 - Great, easily protected. No 5.8 runout at the top. I read that you should bring double set of small cams, not true in the least. I has one blue TCU and BD nuts (8-4) and had bomber pro the whole way. This is for sure a nut climb and not a cam climb.
Jul 11, 2011
I thought the stemming on Over the Hill was more demanding than P1. I'd even go so far and say maybe .10- compared to Over the Hill's second P1 crux. The RPs are fantastic, just take down to a #3 BD RP. I brought smaller RPs, but they were unnecessary/not small enough to go in the crack inches above the BOMBER #3 RP. The beta scared me off this climb for a while, but it's not as bad as everyone makes it out to be!
May 26, 2011
Is the route description correct here? I think from the belay at the first pins in the corner you move up and RIGHT to the little tree. Then, after climbing the crux finger crack you move back LEFT to the big tree in the corner. There is now a bolted belay in the corner near the tree, but it is a rope stretcher with a 70m, so be careful.
Apr 3, 2011
Small RPs protect the first pitch quite well, the Crack-'n-up thing should be put to rest. Carry 2x #3 RPs and a #2 and some other really small wireds and you will be fine. The second pitch is among my favorites in the area.
Jul 5, 2010
The first pitch can be protected with up to three #3 BD Micro Stoppers and they are all bomber. Two of the placements are bottlenecked in and the other one is nice and solid, just set it a little.
Jun 16, 2008
Fantastic! Two very different sections, both of which are of the highest quality. I agree with the above comment that the crux is at the top of the finger crack. The feet seem to get thinner and thinner the higher you go. Definitely on my list of top 5 Eldo climbs...
Oct 5, 2006
I lead just the first pitch of this route in the seventies using Crack-n-ups for pro and EBs for shoes. This route is memorable as are many scary gear leads. As much as I love and do sport few will be remembered after 30 years.
Mar 13, 2006
There is a 20ft runout on 5.8 jugs on the second pitch. You basically can't get any pro until you hit the small tree on the face. The finger crack is a lot easier if you have 2 sets of small cams. Just plug and go.... The first pitch probably does not deserve a "s" rating, if you can hang out and place the gear. A #2 and #3 Ballnut are useful to sewn it up. You can grab the good hold on the left with gear at your feet.
Dec 16, 2005
P1 protects reasonably well with a big Camalot and yellow/red Alien before any of the small wires. A couple of #3 RPs protects the stemming. Small wires and a couple of blue Aliens protect he tips crack. Giddy up! The link would seem to be Aerial Book into P2 of Aeorspace and then finsih on Aeronaut. I am definitely trying this next time.
Aug 22, 2004
My partner led both pitches in 1. I 2nd it and felt the corner was a lot easier than the finger crack. If I would have led it, I might not have said that.
Jul 21, 2004
I had good but small gear for P1, and closely spaced, except for the last couple of (slightly easier) moves. Except for the last few moves, the "runout" has the gear at about your knees at the worst. For the thin section, this is what I used: Small RP/HB (#2?) w/screamer, Red ballnut. Another small RP/HB (#2?) w/screamer, Blue ballnut. I fell several times (at least) on this. At this point you are standing on the big white crystal. The hard moves are the next few moves to get to the good handhold on the left arete where you get a decent stem. #5 Crack'n Up (haven't used these for maybe 20 years). Buried. Thought this was excellent, and certainly strong enough. #2(?) Crack'n Up a little higher. OK but not great. The P2 crux is at the very top of the crack. Felt quite hard (ie, fell a bunch), but it was very cold. Thin fingers could help a lot. I was expecting a finger crack, but it was more like a "fingerless" crack for me.
Feb 28, 2004
Add the third pitch of Over The Hill for even more fun.
May 30, 2003
We also rapped to the ground with a 60m rope with no down climbing. I'd call the 1st pitch the crux lead but both pitches are three star quality.
May 5, 2003
I left my 60m on it for a buddy, and it reached. It was close, not all 60m are the same length, so your mileage may vary.
May 6, 2002
Correction: the route climbs up and LEFT after the crux to a tree. A 60m chord will NOT reach the ground from this tree. A rappel comes-up 15 feet short but will deposit you on moderate downclimbing terrain. Knot the ends of your rope! The TR rig will come-up even shorter due to the directionals left by the leader. Pack a double shoulder length sling, .75 and #1 Cam for a directional in the diagonal ramp immediately after the crux. It's worth mentioning again...knot the end of your chord for top-roping!
May 6, 2002
Tony's right about the S rating for the first pitch. It protects but with pretty small gear, Lowe Ball Nuts work ok. The 11a bit actually seems more mellow than the first pitch because the pro is quite good. But then, I've always thought that hard 5.10 (10d) was way more difficult than easy 11 (11a), if you know what I mean.
Apr 5, 2002
From the crack go up and left to reach the tree belay described above. You may also go slightly right from the top of the crack and continue straight up the headwall past two bolts (5.11) to a double bolt anchor. If you use long runners you can do this whole route in one STELLAR 160 ft pitch.TF
Feb 14, 2002
- Aero-Book
- Aerohead
I agree with you, Bob.
May 26, 2011
This route is a good addition as a way to finish Aerospace. I don't want to sound like I am bashing the route because the climbing is good & hard but in my opinion for a rating I think it is marginally 5.11 if 5.11 at all. For a rating comparison I don't think it comes close in comparison of difficulty to the lower crux moves on Aerospace which is rated within a letter grade of being the same. The climbing is a bit contrived as it basically forces a line in the more difficult area of the upper slab avoiding the natural line and easier climbing on up the arete. Which is the way Aerospace was originally put up. If you can ignore the easier climbing just to your right this is a great addition as a much harder finish to Aerospace. Finishing up this route makes for one great long sustained pitch for Aerospace.
Feb 13, 2006
- Aeronaut
This is a good pitch. Great finish after climbing Aerospace and Arrowhead. Look down and to the climbers left from the top of Aerohead for the start.
Apr 23, 2006
- Aerospace
We did this route about a month ago. Really thoughtful, fun climbing with bolts through the tough bit. The opening run-out is reasonably mitigated by placing pro in a small flake about halfway between the dihedral and the arete, and if my memory serves, I thought it was 5.9/10- at hardest through this part. There was some runout above the bolts too, but the fall would be pretty clean. This route felt no harder to me than the first pitch of Wide Country on the Bastille. Perhaps Wide Country is just a massive sandbag? I'm unsure, but those are my thoughts.
Apr 27, 2017
There's an excellent (well, as good as you're going to get) #3 brass RP placement before the first bolt. It's almost directly right of the downward pointing flake feature on the face. A little tough to find, but it's from a great stance. I'd trust it to hold a small fall.... This felt quite a bit harder and certainly more heads-up than the Doub-Griffith.
Nov 13, 2015
I fully concur with KCP's comment above. Keep the spice factor alive and relevant in Eldo! But also, let's not shoot ourselves in the foot by trusting shitty old hardware and making it more dangerous than it was for the first ascents. Eldorado is one of the last, pure trad climbing venues in America, and we should make sure it stays that way.
Nov 2, 2015
Bob is correct in that retrobolting established, serious routes is an affront to many who have successfully accepted the challenge. I am one of those folks. Retrobolting routes like Perilous Journey and Clear The Deck would be offensive to me. That said, I have a question and a comment about the bolts on Aerospace. Was the route TR-rehearsed and then bolted and led? If so, then anyone leading the route onsight has done it in purer style than the first ascensionist, negating the relevancy of disrespecting that FA by suggesting the addition of a bolt in a section on which an onsighter could deck. My comment regards Joshua's statement that the buttonhead doesn't need to be replaced. I would argue that every buttonhead in Eldo should be replaced. They are old enough now that they cannot offer equal protection as when they were originally installed, so anyone climbing on them now is climbing with increased risk. Replacing old bolts is not disrespecting the FA. Hardware does not last forever, as witnessed in so many reports from around the world of failing, fixed hardware.
Nov 1, 2015
This is a spicy meatball! But deadly? No.
May 26, 2010
Climbed this today on a whim with zero knowledge of the route's history or the comments here. I was able to get in a decent #1 Camalot, as well as a #9 or #10 stopper before the 1st bolt. I linked the original P1 and P2 (as it sounds like most people do), and followed the original line up the arete after the hand traverse. I think this pitch deserves a PG13 rating - I never felt like I was gonna get hurt if I fell, but some portions were definitely spicy. Very enjoyable and puzzling moves climbing up the lower arete! A great climb.
Nov 2, 2008
I really feel that Aerospace is one of my favorite routes in Eldo with both finishes being worthy ventures. Yep, the first bit is thought provoking, but the climbing is fairly straightforward, and provides great psyche for the cruxy section above. What a brilliant location! Leave the drill at home please.
Oct 30, 2008
Very well spoken Bob. I withdraw my argument. And the button head does not need replacing either.
Feb 29, 2008
Sorry, since this is on of my favorite routes in Eldo. I can't help piping in here. Adding a bolt to this climb would be considered pretty disrespectful to the FA and probably very offensive to many folks who have climbed this route as it exists today. While I can understand the debate it sounds like some folks don't understand why others wouldn't want someone to add bolts to an existing climb to make it safer. Perhaps some just feel all climbs should be made safe. Joshua, I mean no disrespect to you & I can see from your profile on this site you are a very talented climber. It's just that it has long been a "De facto rule" in climbing that established routes with runouts should be respected & not altered by future climbers wanting to make them safe for all. You don't normally go and add additional bolts to existing routes to make them safer or fill in the voids. As Tony says, it changes the character of the route & FA. There was an era in climbing when runouts, some very dangerous, & climbing based on skill and mind control to manage risk were a very big part of climbing. There are still routes done in this style of climbing today. Eldorado is a climbing area with a rich history that has many routes established in this style and in my opinion it makes it a special area because of it. Routes done in this style should be allowed to exist and are respected by many talented climbers. These routes should not be simply altered by other folks thinking they should be made safe for everyone to climb. It is part of free choice in climbing. If some one feels the risk in climbing a route is to dangerous, and they don't feel the route can be climbed safely, then they simply don't have to climb the route. There are plenty of safe bolted routes to do. The Sport Park & many routes in Boulder Canyon are an example of this "safe climbing" approach taken to the extreme. Some of the routes there are an abomination of climbing where you are not really even leading a route. People should respect the routes that exist that require a degree of mental focus as well as technical ablility. Not everyone wants all climbing experiences to be totally safe ones. Climbing has many forms & this is another form of climbing. The comment advocates adding a bolt to change the nature of this route to make it safe. An understandable attribute because it is a bad thing when people get hurt, but to alter the route by adding a bolt would totally change the experience for future climbers of the climb as it exists today. The fact is this route can be climbed with a degree of safety by many climbers if they have the mental & technical skill set. The fact that it has some danger to it gives it additional character for many folks. It makes it a route that not every Joe that can climb 5.11 or harder has the right combination of skills to complete. All routes should not be sanitized. It may sound crazy to some, but danger & risk are inherent qualities that add to the character of the climbing experience for some folks and are sought out by some climbers.
Feb 23, 2008
Steve: The bolt that pulled was a rusted buttonhead right of the arete, left of the flake. In the route picture on this page, the flake is visible below and right of the climber, and the bolt would have been slightly below his feet. [large] Gear could be placed behind the flake and then extended with a long runner to protect the move w/o that bolt until standing on the flake and able to place the above mentioned RP before traversing back left. Greg: I'm sure it is possible to climb straight up to that position along the direct line (not using flake or old bolt). Above, choose again, to climb straight up to the new bolt, or follow the right-leaning crack, w/gear, back to the arete. Why all the fuss over placing a new bolt to protect the initial traverse to the arete, when a new bolt was already added up high? If you are worried about style, place the bolt in such a position as to be hand drilled from a stance while still in the corner. But it's not as if the rest of the bolts were all drilled on lead and from stances, is it? Yes, Tony, it changes the character of the route by supplementing the existing placements with bolts in the void areas so as to make the route safe(er). There's no way that constitutes "just another sport route".
Feb 19, 2008
Guys, I am confused. When I climbed this route, I never went right of the arete. After the 4th or 5th(?) bolt, I continued straight up the face to a right-leaning, hand crack. And then went straight up an a little left to another bolt. I guess I am wondering where the actual Aerospace route goes and if anybody did it the way I did. Thanks
Feb 12, 2008
I'm not sure I understand Josh's comment. Josh, are you advocating replacing the bolt that pulled or adding a new bolt to the route? Replacing the missing bolt is easily done and it sounds like Steve will be doing that tomorrow. Some old history: the bolt left of the flake was not an original bolt. The original FA line climbed the natural line of the flake. The bolt was added in the mid to late 80s to force the line onto the face. At the same time the stopper placement prior to the first bolt, which is mentioned in earlier posts above and which has now eroded, was significantly enhanced. Prior to that enhancement, the first 30 feet of the climb were essentially unprotectable as they are now.
Feb 12, 2008
Steve, They need something like a Batman flashlight to summon you. Good job, I figured you would be on top of it.
Feb 11, 2008
So Joshua, did you say one bolt broke off? Does that mean there is one less now? Should that one be replaced?
Feb 11, 2008
One more bolt? Well, it would be a different route. Any argument of that point would be silly. Otherwise, the counter would be the question: "Then why do you want it if it doesn't change anything?" Fact is, it would change the route. Check out the post on Tiger Balm Arete & Eye Of The Tiger for some reflections on this. It's OK to have classics to aspite to rather than pedestrian 'go for it!'
Feb 11, 2008
I think this is BS. The route is bolted. Add a bolt I didn't know the name or the grade when I went up there today. I placed a cam in the corner, and made it out to the first bolt fine, but that fall would have been ugly. Then I clipped several more reasonable bolts. What is the point in not adding one more at the beginning?! Then, as Dane followed me up, and turned the corner to get in the flake, he slipped, and his body weight broke off the old buttonhead. I had a screamer on it, and it never activated! One more thing: what's the deal with the bolt in the middle of the face, when the line of least resistance obviously goes out right. I love the position and moves on this route, but I wholeheartedly disagree with fighting over bolt placements on a route that already has plenty of bolts. What is one more?
Feb 10, 2008
Agree with most of the above, and think this is one of the best 5.11 pitches in Eldo! It took me years to get up the psych to lead it with that first 30 feet of spice... felt like 10a/b vs, definitely a scary prospect to fall there. However, I was able to stretch way right and get a semi-decent nut placement before committing to the hardest move there. I also used a screamer on the gold Camalot behind the flake (which may or may not make a difference). As good as the original finish is, Aerohead is an even better finish and feels notably easier than the hard face crux on Aerospace.
Aug 11, 2007
This one is a Eldo classic!! One of my favorite routes at Rincon. It does require some mind control & enough skill to make sure you don't fall in the first 30 feet. A fall at the beginning would probably have serious consequences. Adding Aerohead to finish adds some more hard climbing for one long pitch with lots of continuous climbing.
Aug 9, 2007
I may be blind, but the flake for the #2 Camalot may be gone. I also didn't find anything I liked at the end of the traverse before the first bolt - a bunch of marginal rock and expanding flakes - big runouts when you won't hit something are fun, but I personally didn't like this section. For the upper traverse left, if you want, you can get a #2 steel nut, #3/4 RP, AND a small Alien (I don't have Aliens, so I used a tipped purple TCU; all are good) - you don't really need all of this, the traverse is A LOT easier than it looks (5.9 or so). I also got lost soon after this (duh, bumbler) by traversing out right along the crack to the arete and missing the bolt - which made the upper runout (original route, not Aerohead) seem much worse.
Apr 10, 2006
The mentioned "flake'" you can put a #2 Camalot behind DOES EXPAND I was there today and tried it......Basically there is no gear for the first 30 feet......Go big or go home.........I went home..
Nov 6, 2005
I think the way to do it is to rap to the tree anchor above and left of the second pitch of Aerial Book (single rope rap) then another single rope rap right past the pin anchor. The best option is to do Aerial Bondage and walk off though.
Aug 27, 2004
Is it possible to rap with a single 60m to the piton anchor on Aerial Book?
Aug 27, 2004
Sandbagger!!
Apr 29, 2004
P.S. the #2 Camalot placement is the one visible in the third picture below.
Apr 28, 2004
The supposedly "bomber" #2 Camalot mentioned by Jason and Tom is behind a flake that flexes visibly when you tug on the cam--I feel virtually certain that this placement wouldn't hold! I don't think there's any worthwhile gear in the first 30 feet--I found this section much scarier than anything up high because of the groundfall potential on a borderline 5.10 move (please note, I'm not advocating for a bolt). Top-5 route for Eldo! Every single move is good!
Apr 28, 2004
I will agree with the "s" rating, crossing over from the cam placement on the initial 30' is "tricky" and you may have the chance to get a piece in near the arete, but if your gear pops, the ground is your next stop. The climbing in-between the bolts is "bold" to say the least.Magnificent climbing, all I could think about while climbing is the AC/DC song, "Who's got big balls" it's stout for the grade and don't be fooled into thinking it's a "sport route" in Eldo............
Oct 18, 2003
I couldn't slot in any gear when I reached the arete, but I was still thinking #9 stopper. The r.p. placement on the upper section is small but good, and obscured by some larger, less positive grooves below.
Jun 23, 2003
Did this yesterday (Dec 15th -- gotta love climbing in Colorado!). Amazing route, in the top 10 on my list. We also did the long version, combining P1 and 2. But, I fear I made the first 9-ish move around the corner a bit harder to protect. The perfect slot mentioned above for a stopper *was* perfect, but in hand-setting my stopper, a good-sized chunk of the side of the slot chipped off. A smaller stopper will fit now, but not quite as bomber, unfortunately, because what's left is pretty flaring. An offset green-yellow or yellow-red Alien would also be decent. Luckily, the moves are moderate compared to the rest of the route, so if you're up to this as a lead, this shouldn't be a show stopper. As to the upper run out section: you can also pop in a #3 Camalot with a looong sling at the top of the big flake, to protect the traverse back onto the face to the crack. Maybe easier than fiddling in an RP, though more prone to rope drag. I found this route incredibly invigorating. The bold moves off the deck really set the tone, and my adrenaline was up for the whole, long pitch. Amazing....
Dec 16, 2002
It sounds like with what we both found for gear (put together) we could have sewn this pitch up. There are two bomber placements before you get to the first bolt; a gold camalot under a flake as you begin the traverse from the corner, then a solid stopper in a slot just before you swing right around the arete. I didn't even try a cam where you suggested the alien.....thanks for the beta.
Feb 11, 2002
There's a good small Alien (black or blue-black) placement in the vacinity of the RP that you mention. This takes all the "s" out of that section of the route. I believe the S rating does apply at the start of the route when one has to traverse 15 ft. right without gear from the initial corner (aerial book) to the first bolt and the start of the diffuculties.
Feb 10, 2002
This is a spectacular pitch! It combines well with Aerohead for an unforgettable 150' pitch. Aerospace is well protected IF you can fiddle in a decent RP before you traverse to the crack (above the 4th bolt). Perhaps I missed something, but I wasn't able to get a good placement there, so the hardish, insecure moves to the crack were kinda scary. Assuming "s" stands for "spicy", I thought Aerohead deserved deserves an "s" more than Aerospace does. Above the second bolt you have to make a fairly lengthy runout to the top. The moves aren't 5.11 but the fall potential pushes 30 feet. I don't know......."s" seems to mean so many different things in Eldo. These two pitches, linked together, offer a spicy outing, in my opinion, but I think the falls are safe at any point. I LOVE ELDO !!!!!! I'm from New England, so climbing warm, west-facing rock in February is SO RAD !! The Front Range is where it's at.
Feb 7, 2002
I second David's assertion of the 11c rating. Aerospace is definitely harder than Aerohead.
Nov 14, 2001
Excellent route. A large cam (#3 Camalot?) can be placed about 10 feet up in an odd vertical slot to get you to the nut placement near the arete.
Nov 12, 2001
- Arete Bandit
- Athletic Supporter
- Bachar Yer Aryan
This has got to be one of the better parody route names I've seen. I truly want to climb it just so I can drop the name and laugh...
Feb 18, 2011
I climbed this awhile ago as an alternate to P3 of Over the Hill (which by the way is one of my favorite .9's in the canyon). I thought this was a great route that amde you commit to get to the holds you needed . It looks blank and hard from the ground but once you get into micro-crimps seem to appear just as you need them. Clipping from the arete was quite spicy.
Jun 13, 2004
- Bat's Ass Dihedral
Hmm. My partner told me to go right and then back left also, but I wasn't feelin' it. After coming off a few times, I git an undercling, smedged my up as high as I could got the right hand over the roof and just hucked for it!! Pretty exciting li'l all point dyno to get the Jugs!
Jun 17, 2008
Since there's only one other comment on this excellent route, I'll add my two cents. A steep jug haul leads to a pumpy undercling sequence around and over a bulge to thank God jugs. The undercling feels insecure--where the hell do you put your feet?! Crazy to think that Derek H. free-soloed it! Pulling left around the roof is pretty exciting. No need for the R rating; good gear where you need it. Nice setting, too.
Feb 24, 2008
Great finish to any of the lower pitches. Nice face move crux with good gear.
Aug 18, 2004
- Brevitata
Good route, worth doing if in the 'hood.
Feb 4, 2004
I did it without knowing what it was. When my partner asked as I set the anchor, I answered "between hard 5.10 and easy 5.11". So I guess we agree on the grade. I've been taking a whole lot of shit lately for sandbagging so when Jo couldn't do the moves (she is short, and she had just done Rincon) I decided I'd post it as the book rates it. So what do I honestly think? 5.11a, tops. I was trying to be fair though. Consider the 5.11c I gave it as Rossiter's opinion. I think it's less technical than Rincon, but a whole lot more physical. As for the stars, I liked it enough to go back to it next time I am there. That's what 2 stars means on this site. If you wouldn't repeat it, but didn't mind having done it, that's 1 star on this site, and you're entitled to your opinion.
Jul 7, 2003
TB: even though I don't always agree with your evaluations, I'm grateful that you're putting out beta on these obscure mystery climbs. 30' pitch, one move crux. Easy for the grade, even at 11a. Did this as a follow on to Rincon. I (short) found this easier than Rincon's curx; my partner (tall) found them about the same.
Jul 7, 2003
- Climb Of The Century
Offset Mastercams, c3s, and DMM alloy offset nuts make this route PG-13 if you aren't too short. The crux is getting to and getting established over the big jug rail. Each move after the crux feels easier than the last. A fair onsight grade is 11 if you are tall and perhaps 11+ if you are short or have only one working ankle. ;)
Jan 16, 2017
2nd ascent in 1980. Fine route.
Jul 15, 2016
Over the years I've probaly lead/sent this thing 15 times and taken 3 times as many TR laps, and I've never been able to climb it straight up. One time on a little bit of a warmer day I even decked trying to figure out the straight up beta. The only way I can do it is to stem up on the left and do a funky lieback/crossover move into the sloping rail. Maybe some Aliens would inspire more confidence, I've always placed a few so-so grey TCUs. Maybe it could be a little height-dependent as well? I'm barely 5'9", anyway just my two cents.
Feb 20, 2015
If you have confidence in the gear or are able to get good gear in reasonably quickly, that helps with the difficulties of this route. I can see the opinion of a rating rise or fall for the individual ascent depending on how well the leader gets the gear in and how much confidence they have in the gear placed. When led, the climb has a bit of gear, head, and pump factor that can add to the pure technical difficulty. The small cams you can get on this seem pretty good. Some people have total confidence in micro cams and are totally comfortable whipping on them. However, I always prefer not to put them to the test myself and this route has a really bad landing area. Critical placements: A blue Alien or purple TCU in the upper slot before the jug. Blue TCU placed in the slot before the pin, from the jug, are what I use to protect the opening moves.
Apr 11, 2012
Really fun climb with really small pro for the first 20/25 ft. I found the crux to be a reasonably well-protected. It is a little scary busting the crux moves near the deck on thin pro, though. Up higher, the climbing eases off, but the gear is a little spaced, not too big of a deal if you made it through the bottom, though. I would recommend taking doubled of 0 and 00 size cams (may be even triple of 0 but not necessary). I thought it was more sustained than the crux pitch of C'est la Vie just for reference.
Jul 11, 2011
I got the RP on this yesterday, and if anyone cares the following gear sewed it up through the crux nicely. Grey/purple Mastercam hybrid. Medium nut in the finger slot where the pillar gets steep. Green C3 in the slot below the jug/rail. Green C3 just below the pin above the jug/rail. Pin. I found a blue/yellow Mastercam hybrid useful for the next placement. That crack is pretty funky up high. I recommend bringing hybrids, or just placing a lot.
May 26, 2011
Be careful placing a blue Alien in the slot before the crux move to the jug. We fixed one that took 15-20 minutes to extract. A black Alien or blue ballnut might work better there. We also managed to temporarily stick a blue Alien before the pin. The trigger bar became wedged in the crack. I guess it wasn't a good day for blue Aliens for us. Great climb with good gear and holds when you need them, but not at the same time.
Oct 7, 2009
As of 3/21/09 the slider nut at the start was gone, although a grey TCU works in its spot.
Mar 23, 2009
Somehow I managed to get suckered left around the corner at the beginning. Don't do that. Bring a black and blue Aliens or two blacks for the crux. Blue TCU/Red BD are too big.
Nov 18, 2008
I've only been to Eldo once, but this route is what I remember most. Good lead.
Jan 26, 2006
charles- glad to hear that the gear held so well. when i lead this route i didn't fall on the gear so i never had a good sense if it was as good as it looked. it just didn't seem as straight forward and easy to guage as the gear on center route. that is why i said is was more uncertain. either way, a definate must lead route.
Feb 27, 2004
I don't think the moves are "much more serious on lead." I led this route for the second time last week, and whipped twice off the crux onto a bomber cam. Short, safe fall. In fact, I'd feel comfortable falling anywhere on this route. There are some tricky placements but the gear is good! Kirk--it may feel easier because the crux, while hard, is kind of a boulder problem (and balancy rather than powerful), plus there are decent rests most of the rest of the way.
Feb 27, 2004
kirk- in my opinion, this really isn't any harder than center route, it is just that the moves are much more serious on lead. you can sew up the crux of the center route while climb of the century has a decently uncertain fall at the beginning crux. all that aside, they are both classic!
Feb 27, 2004
Somebody tell me why this seems easier than Center Routeto me? This is now officially on my lead list (TRed it clean first time, which is way more than I can say for Center Route)
Feb 27, 2004
The black alien backs up the old fixed slider nut at the start.
Sep 29, 2003
Two words: Black Alien! eldo top-10, maybe top-5 About the same difficulty as Center Route. I can see this being thought of as harder-11 back in the pre-small cam days.
Apr 21, 2003
you lanzanos are always good stewards at your local crags. i finally got to do this route yesterday and it was even better than i had hoped. a classic for sure. and the pin looks pretty bomber now. thanks stan.
Sep 8, 2002
FYI: A while back a friend and I hammered in the pin on this climb. We were able to drive it in at least an inch. While still not bomber, it no longer belongs in the Eldorado fixed gear _hall of shame_ like, say, the tattered ball nut directly below it. Great line.
Apr 18, 2002
Like some other climbs at Rincon (including the namesake), this climb is a little soft at it's grade, feeling more like 11a to me. The climb plays best to people who stem and smear well. Ballnuts and micro-cams are both useful.
Oct 29, 2001
- Cuban Bluegrass
- Emerald City
Listen to the comments above and climb emerald city to the second pitch of Over the Hill or as I refer to it now the "Emerald Hill". Great climbing!!
Nov 26, 2009
Great pitch. Dunno about sustained (at all) and this was my first 5.9 lead. A few thin moves, but you always have a jug/ledge in view that is a move or two away to shoot for. As long as you look a move or two ahead (especially for your feet) it's pretty easy. Got in 'trouble' up top when I thought I would walk the last 10 feet of the first dihedral, had to downclimb to a stance after pumping myself out in a ridiculous bearhug with the dihedral. Looked at it with a more critical eye and then cruised it no problem. The handcrack at the top was super enjoyable, I wish it went on forever!
Nov 9, 2009
Following this pitch with the second pitch of Over the Hill adds up for a 5.9 classic.
Jan 19, 2009
Do this, then finish with the last pitch of OTH for a four-star classic, one of the best 5.9 linkups in Eldo!
Nov 23, 2008
Have climbed Eldo for 25 years and never did it 'cause it always took a back seat to Over the Hill (OTH) and/or A.-Book. What a fool am I? LInk it with last pitch of OTH and you have a "classic."
Oct 7, 2008
Beautiful route...that fixed nut that George was talking about below the crux is still there. I ended up laying the crux back - it was pretty thin but not unreasonable.
Sep 29, 2007
Awesome route, especially if you combine with the top pitch of Over the Hill. There is currently a fixed wire about 20 feet up Emerald City, right about at the crux (below the first horizontal rail right of the corner). The crux seems more tricky than hard, but failing to find a trick I found it quite a struggle. If you start liebacking the clock is ticking! Stemming seems to be the key, but even stemming seemed desperate at the crux.
Aug 30, 2006
Superb route and a great winter treat in the sun.
Dec 12, 2005
Great route; when combined with the second pitch of Over the Hill it is one of the best at this grade. The route seemed sustained 5.9 to me, but there are good rests to place good gear between moves. Both this route and the second pitch of Over the Hill are delicate and balance-oriented 5.9 versus pumpy/strenuous 5.9. Enjoy!
Apr 18, 2005
Very nice route, definitely worth the hike. I totally agree that this + the second pitch of Over The Hill makes for an excellent link up with a lot of varied and interesting climbing.
Mar 14, 2004
Make the guy with the hurt hand lead it! :) Seriously though, the Emerald City pitch is all about feet and stemming, so, probably a good choice for somebody with a hurt hand to try. I think it is pretty comparable to Green Spur in difficulty, and you will probably find the gear to be a little easier than tagger P1. The last pitch of over and out (5.7+/8ish) is pretty good too. Not as good as over the hill's last pitch, but less fingery, and coninues in an asthetic dihedral with good gear (the dihedral to the left of Over the Hill's last pitch). You can also escape left after the EC pitch if necessary.
Feb 24, 2004
William, I just got on this again a week ago. It is excellent, 2++ stars, I would say even better than the first pitch of Over and Out and certainly more sustained. Gear is straightforward. Easier than Green Spur, on par with Tagger P1. The route description here calls for RPs, but I didn't use anything that small. Combined with P2 of Over the Hill, this is a GREAT outing. Have a shot at Faulty Logic too!
Feb 24, 2004
Thinking about climbing this pitch or Over and Out tomorrow with a friend with a hurt hand. How does the climb compare with the first pitch of Tagger, or the Green Spur crux? Charles, I know you've been all over.... What's your opinion?
Feb 24, 2004
Amazing, especially when combined with the 5.9 second pitch of OTH. I used more stoppers (mostly micro nuts) on the four pitches of this and Over and Out than the last years worth of climbing at Eldo (possibly a slight exaggeration). Thin, 'technical' pro and moves so different from most other Eldo 8/9 that I still ache 2 days later - everything but my forearms. I agree this may be a though 9, but if you climb with more technique and less power, this feel like an easier 9 than if you're a sport climbing powerhouse. It never gets vertical (either pitch), so affords the opportunity to place gear if you can stand around on small edges and smears. Of course, since I'm not used to placing nuts, this was a good thing as I spent a while trying to fish in those little do-they-really-hold-a-fall RPs. Definitely a must-do.
Jan 12, 2004
Enjoyable route of sustained nature. I felt the top of the first section a crux of sorts. Neat area with good exposure. Three stars all the way.
Sep 29, 2003
Lead this today after doing Over & Out...and the winner is...E. C. by a TKO. Really enjoyed this little number. Sustained & steep (9), with positive thin fingers, good stemming, good placements & stances (takes small Aliens and stoppers), in a great area (off the beaten path & scenic), make climbing up there a pleasure.
Sep 28, 2003
Another good route, in a good area. We climbed this after doing Over and Out. I thought the 5.9 rating was right now. Maybe a hard 5.9... but a 9. I thought the crux came down low, but my partner thought it was at the top... This is another fun climb. the moves are interesting and different. Gear is good. Lots of places for some sweet footwork. The top gets kinda thin, but it's not as steep as the bottom.
May 8, 2003
That's a trad route- if you can reach it and still reach the crack, it's on. Eliminates are for boulder problems, but trad routes generally use all holds to create the line of least resistnce within a given system.
May 5, 2003
Question: Near the top of the pitch, as the width of the walls that make up the dihedral gets narrower, is it permissible to use the outside edges of those walls as holds? In other words, does staying on-route require one to use only the crack and the two faces?
May 5, 2003
One of the harder 9s I've done, although it is a fantastic route. I had more trouble with this climb than with the first pitch of Over the Hill (we climbed both yesterday). Go figure.
Jun 4, 2001
Led this pitch today and I have to say that it is one of my favorite, if not my favorite 5.9 pitch in Eldo...a great finger crack in the back of the dihedral, some cool stemming in the tight corner...the 2nd half has an awesome hand crack that goes all the way to the belay...very sustained and LOTS of fun.
Jan 1, 2001
- Evictor, The
Maybe I'm suturing the pot a bit when a bit with "a" ;) Honestly, the last move is probably c or d alone. However, I found that this beta made the crux sequence significantly easier, for me. Thanks to Adam Brink! Basically from the right hand undercling before the bouldery crux go right"ish" with fancy rock over and perching tactics to position just using smears and the right of the parallel seams.
Jan 31, 2017
There's more moderate .12 beta that most folks don't see...dare I say .12a.
Jan 31, 2017
This climb rules!!!!! Bomber gear, but you got to go for it.
Feb 1, 2016
I did this route 2nd go, very thin technical crux for me!
Jul 29, 2013
Hey- I was at the Evictor on Sunday, and I discovered that I'm missing 3 cams: an orange Metolius, a 0.3 C4 and a 0.4 C4. They're all pretty worked and either have Wild Country Xenon biners or new Camp biners on them (guessing the orange has a WC biner and the BD cams have the Camp biners, but I'm not 100%). There were two other guys up there at the base with us (I think one is named Aaron?), their stuff was spread out on the rock, I'm sure my cams just got mixed up in the pile, and my bad for not checking. So if one of you reads this and is one of the guys that was up there, or if someone knows them, would you mind sending me a message or calling? Thanks!! casey 415-846-1439
Apr 26, 2013
Video by my friend Bill Karam from a few years ago. Evictor from Patrick Vernon on Vimeo.
Jan 12, 2013
I agree with the 12+ rating. The gear is certainly no more than PG. It's a little run out on the lower section but you won't deck, and the climbing is easy.
Mar 20, 2011
Alex did indeed onsight this climb last Friday. Pretty inspiring to see....
Jan 20, 2009
I believe Alex Honnold got the first true onsight of this route last weekend. Same goes for the three routes to the left. Edit: I think this route gets the R rating for the 5.10 run-out at the bottom. If you have the energy to stop and place, the rest of the climb can be sewn up.
Jan 19, 2009
The crux for me is before the finger/tip jams. The rests on this route are decent enough that I'd call this 5.12 leading in project style (i.e. with all the move/gear beta). Onsight/flash would be much more difficult. Not sure where the R rating comes from (pre cam days?) The route accepts mix of good active and passive gear.
Apr 13, 2008
12d placing gear, especially if your fingers don't fit in the finger-locks at the crux.
Apr 2, 2008
Anyone know if the Evictor has ever been onsighted/flashed? A true onsight would be really impressive.
Feb 8, 2008
Evictor is a great one, no doubt. As far as the best, 5.12, 1 pitch, crack climb in the State goes, it's "Transgression 12b" in the Flatirons. Just do 85% of "Death and Transfiguration" and keep cranking it out to the right, very obvious and pumpy. Transgression is better than the Evictor. IMNSHO........ edit for spelling
Mar 5, 2007
All trad pro, continuously sustained climbing, solid 5.12+. This route has deservedly become an Eldo benchmark over the years and opened the door for many climbers to the more difficult 5.13 lines to its left (Freeline, Frayed line, Surfs Up). I'd call it a new classic and the best 5.12 trad pitch in the state; would anyone nominate a better one?
Mar 5, 2007
FWIW, this route has seen at least a dozen redpoints over the past year or two, many by non-5.13 climbers. Not sure if that adds anything to the grade debate or not, but it does update some of the information in the description
Jun 14, 2005
As I lack the guts to uprate a route under my real name, I'm posting under the honorable title of AC. I have to call sandbagging for who ever said this is 12c on lead, placing gear. Maybe 12c on toprope. This thing is 12d placing gear and hard at the grade. If you have led it in good style, please feel free to correct me. And now for the sameless spraying for my buddy Ted Lanzano (as he won't do it himself). He crushed this on lead yesterday. The last stopper he was too pumped to place properly so he just clipped it and sprinted for the top. Getting wobbley at the top and looking at a 30+ foot whipper, he sucked it up and snagged the finishing jug. Absolutely inspiring performance. You Lanzano boys are the shit!
Jun 9, 2005
Adam. Yes, that's the guy. Not many people know of his ascent because he didn't make a big deal of it.
Sep 29, 2003
I believe that Jim Surette did it way back, without all the hype.
Jul 22, 2003
- Faulty Logic
Contrived, not a great line.
Jun 17, 2015
Above the 2nd bolt you can get a bomber grey (between yellow & red) Alien followed by a #0 TCU and a #0.5 Camalot. We climbed almost every other route in the immediate area, and it's a much better route than it looks like from below. Recommended! Just belay at the ledge, bring up a 2nd, and then walk-off left.
Feb 21, 2007
Fun moves at the bolts and the dihedral. One may see a BD #5 stopper in the dihedral that I lodged too deeply to be removed(have at it!). We climbed to the top at broken rock and walked off to the left.
Aug 29, 2004
I found this to be just as enjoyable and of similar difficulty as Emerald City.
Oct 27, 2003
Personally, I didn't care much for it and I didn't think it was well bolted either. Of course that's my opinion, but I would not have given it more than 1 star.
Feb 11, 2002
I'll "third" the motion.....this pitch deserves at least two stars. Fun, varied climbing. Great for the winter as it gets more sun than the other routes in the area.
Feb 11, 2002
Contrived??? I think this is great route with fun balancy moves up the steep arete. Two stars!!!!!
Feb 10, 2002
Yeah, I definitely think otherwise. This route deserves two stars. The rock is good, and the first crux is really fun. I'm really only talking about the first pitch though.
Nov 11, 2001
- Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The
In reference to my previous comment, in regards to Fraidline... after speaking with Steve Levin, like many people, I cut out left up high to meet with the finish of "Surf's Up" once the horizontal is reached. He suggested that Topher went straight up the face, and he speculated that it may be another 12c crux, still running it out over the RPs.
Apr 3, 2017
One of the best pitches around Boulder. Either Fraidline is 12+ or Freeline is 13b. They can't be the same grade, there is a letter grade between the two.
Jan 31, 2016
For the record, the actual name of this route is "The Final Eviction", named by Justen Sjong after his FFA in 2000. Regardless of whatchacallit, it's an amazing line that's well-protected and super fun!
Apr 13, 2011
"Freeline" is the complete first pitch of the original aid route done here by Ron Olevsky in the early 1970s (A3 crux right off the ground back then). It has been reported as both the "Olevsky Route" and "Aid Line". The first reported free ascent of pitch one was by Justen Sjong in early 2000 (pitch two was freed by Chris Reveley in the 1970s). The crux is still the first 15 feet, then a long 5.12 section to the bolt, then right into the crux of what is now Evictor.
Oct 26, 2007
Freeline does the boulder problem start of Surf's Up, continues up the seam of Fraid line, then traverses right at the old bolt into the crux finish of the Evictor. Have heard the grade reported as 13a or 13b. I think it was sent several years ago if I'm not mistaken.
Oct 26, 2007
I'm dying here! What's this new line?
Oct 25, 2007
- Fraid Line
I found a great #3 hand placed Pecker before the run-out that makes this PG. You don't need the #1 stopper doing it this way.
Feb 9, 2017
vimeo.com/31147587
Jun 1, 2012
- Kaisho
- Kangaroo Tail
- Leisure Time Arete
This is a new route in Eldorado Canyon up on Rincon Wall. At present, the route is done as a toprope as bolts would be needed to protect it on lead.
Oct 24, 2003
- Must'a Been High
vimeo.com/55567999
Jul 16, 2017
You have more stones than I, good sir.
Jun 6, 2011
Must'a Been High!!! Knifeblade was the only fixed protection I used on the first ascent. Replaced the anchor slings winter '07.
Jun 1, 2007
- N.I.C
This is a fun climb. I would give the descent gully a 4th class rating vs. 3rd. The tree up top provided an excellent rappel anchor that seemed like the safer option.
Jun 23, 2009
Neat pitch. The chimney above is actualy pretty cool but should probably be done as a separate pitch. And, yes, getting to the base of the chimney from the top of NIC is a bitch and very loose. And above that, starting on the "walk off ledge" is a third pitch that has seen only two ascents that I know of; it goes at about 5.8 PG-13 and has quite a bit of loose rock and shrubbery, very fun climbing though. Rap off a tree to get down.
Jan 31, 2008
You can make this longer by working up and right to a chimney, but it's not spectacular and very loose on top. This puts you on the walk-off from "over and out" instead of going down the gully. It would easily get two stars if the good part were longer.
Jun 19, 2005
Mostly a good route to build beginner leader confidence except one real spicy move in the middle, which is why I think the route is more a 5.6 or harder. The descent wasn't too obvious either. Maybe I took a wrong turn.
Jun 25, 2004
Agreed, good climb. Good gear the whole way for beginning leaders. Good belay anchors up top as well. Just needs to be longer.
Nov 20, 2002
- Over and Out
Fun climb with great protection, interesting and makes you think. Try not to get your rope stuck on Over the Hill P1 if you rap from the rings after P1.
Mar 26, 2017
Got a green Metolius UL Master Cam 6 with 'jt' on inside of sling stuck just before end of the first pitch. 4102001866 thanks.
Mar 4, 2017
The downclimb: if you end up belaying while standing on choss, you don't do the 2nd pitch for whatever reason, and perhaps the wall is festooned with many parties including a party on the OTH bolts, then there is a terrible choss traverse and downclimb waiting for you. The terrible part is more about knocking rocks off than it is technical difficulty, but the technical downclimb moves are very exposed, and the poor trees are all dead. Please be careful of others down below, and be careful for yourself too. The downclimb from P1 is to be avoided. Finish this climb or OTH.
Jun 14, 2016
Great Eldo 5.8. The first pitch is pretty straightforward with good gear. Pitch 2 is not to be missed, I'd still give it a 5.8, but the gear is a little trickier.
Jul 10, 2011
A varied climb, but quite a bit of liebacking. A comparison: harder than the first pitch of Redguard, the "Birdwalk."
Mar 16, 2011
At the top of the second pitch (of Over the Hill) The belay tree has died and no longer wears the mark of countless rappel slings. You may downclimb easily (climber's left) To another rappel tree, or continue right on down. There is one 5.1 exposed move on the downclimb.
May 27, 2009
My 60m rope did not reach the ground from the tree and we had to down climb. Luckily a friend was there to give us hand. Thanks, Chris.
May 26, 2009
IMHO one of the best moderates in Eldo. Two caveats: The first good gear is about 15-20 feet up, but it's not hard to get there. The rest of the placements on this route are bomber and have good stances. Fun, smooth climbing all the way to the belay.The belay at the top of the 5.6 corner is very chossy. There is currently a large pile of jagged debris at the exit of the corner. You can set a very nice gear anchor in the cracks below the big slab above, but use the slings on the tree instead. Although there's a bit more drag this way, you will avoid knocking the choss off with the rope. A note to the committee folks--bringing some of the rubble down might be a worthy off-season project. You'll regret it if you don't do the 5.9 crack pitch above (P2 of Over the Hill). Sustained with very good pro, some thought-provoking frictiony moves, and holds that appear as if by magic, at just the right time and place. One of the coolest 5.9s anywhere.
Nov 13, 2006
The 2nd pitch finger crack of Over the Hill (5.9) is a great way to finish Over and Out. I used a mostly small RPs with a few Aliens to protect it. Quite a nice pitch.
Sep 28, 2006
I didn't think the climbing was entirely straightforward. Which of the cracks do you follow about 40' up, for example? Also, there is a balancy lieback move about 15' up. But a great climb nonetheless! Our 60m rope easily made it from the tree, no downclimbing.
Aug 30, 2006
The dihedral left of P2 of OtH is a stellar pitch. I get the feeling it's underrated because of its proximity to the OtH finger crack. If leading Eldo 5.9s is a bit beyong you (as for me), then be sure to continue on up this pitch. It is either blemished or enhanced by a slightly spooky bit near the end above a small roof, where the crack become more of a seam. Almost the entire route is good fun climbing on really solid rock with great views.
Nov 8, 2004
Climbed this on 10/17. The pro is excellent and the climbing was straightforward. Was definitely worth the "long" approach, at least according to Eldo standards.
Oct 22, 2004
If you do the upper pitch of Over the Hill or the dihedral to the left, there is a very quick descent to the north along the ledge system. Go about 150 feet N, when the ledge begins to go back upwards, look for an easy downclimb (4th class); 1 or 2 moves gets you to safe ground. I think the whole descent took about 5 minutes, the quickest I've ever had in Eldo. The finger crack is awesome with good stances before the cruxes; exciting moves.
Sep 13, 2004
As most have already stated...the final pitch of Over the Hill is not to be missed.
Feb 23, 2004
What a great route!!! The first pitch is just fun moves with great gear. The hand traverse is pretty wild and then feast your eyes on the sweet 20-foot hand crack. Jam that or run the finger crack in the corner. Take your pick. For the second pitch, I've done both the 5.8 dihedral and the 5.9 finger crack up the face. Both are good but the 5.9 is amazing. Rossiter's book calls it one of the best 5.9s anywhere; I'd agree. The thing eats mid-size nuts and Aliens. The 5.8 is super fun too, though I recall a couple of moves that felt a bit harder. Enjoy!
Aug 5, 2003
Check that...my new favorite (8) Pitch.
Jun 19, 2003
Led this today and it rocks! Enjoyed every move. My new favorite (8) in the park. Go left at the end of the initial dihedral and climb the beautiful 20' crack next to the upper dihedral. Really fun moderate climbing. Definitely recommend linking P1 & 2. Use a long runner under the roof to eliminate rope drag. The weather forced us to miss the upper pitch, but plan on going back for the full experience real soon.
Jun 19, 2003
Combined with the 5.9 finger crack this is one of the best moderates ever! Sucks up small nuts like a baby squirrel!
Jun 12, 2003
Instead of moving left at the top of the initial dihedral, you can climb directly over the roof. It's not hard (5.7? Easier?), and has gear, but the big flake that forms the roof is a little suspect. Just above is a 1 1/4" angle, so it's an old variation.
Jun 4, 2003
The Over and Out - Over the Hill link-up is one of the best 2 pitch outings I've done! I highly recommend it!! Pitch 1 has great stemming down low, a neat mini-traverse left under a roof and then 15 ft of super-positive laybacking to the belay. Pitch 2 looks harder than 5.9 from the belay but finger-locks and jugs seem to present themselves just at the right time. The best 9 pitch i've done in Eldo. You'll see what i mean when you get up there....
Jun 3, 2003
This is a really good route. The gear is all there and it is very interesting. We climbed the dihedral to the left of the last pitch of Over the Hill. I thought there were some moves on that pitch that were a little harder than 5.8 (especially the first pitch). But the gear is good at these points, so it's not that much of a problem. The upper dihedral pitch is great pitch... varied moves and I thought they were decently thought-provoking. Also the double cracks at the top of the first pitch are pretty fun. Granted, they're short... but they're good. I would definitely do this climb again.
May 8, 2003
Smells quite strongly of nitrogen-type compounds at the start of the last pitch. Beware.
Apr 30, 2003
You could also climb the 5.6 second pitch (as described in the guidebooks). As I recall: follow the parallel cracks (actually corner with a parallel crack to the right) to the rotten ledge at the base of the 3rd pitch of Over the Hill. From there, either traverse off left, or climb the 3rd pitch of OtH.
Aug 12, 2002
In addition to the options mentioned, you can also go over the roof and climb the dihedral to the left of the last pitch of Over the Hill. Maybe one or two 9-ish moves.
Jan 1, 2001
- Over the Hill
With a single 70m, you can link all of it to the top as one pitch, but it uses the whole rope. So make sure yours isn't short unless you want to simul a little.
Apr 28, 2014
First ascent was by Jim Erickson, Pat Ament, and Bill Putnam in 1972. The climb is so named because Erickson was apparently feeling a bit past his prime at the time.
Dec 31, 2013
Raise your hand if you cranked off the single digit pocket after the tree on the first pitch! What an awesome route; the 5.9 pitch can be lead using only stoppers.
Oct 31, 2012
Do this climb.
Jun 17, 2011
Wow, the Vernons got all the good posts.
May 20, 2011
Loved the first pitch. Fine, sustained stemming. I thought the second pitch (the 5.9 crack off the ledge that folks seem to love so much) was only fair. Uninteresting face climbing around a finger crack, and some hollow rock up high. OK as a second pitch, but I wouldn't bother with it again. Now the stemming corner on the other hand was superb. I'd just rap off from there and do one of the other brilliant pitches at Rincon instead.
Sep 8, 2010
Stellar route, hardest stemming I've done to date! I led P2 only, but I don't think we placed anything over a #0.75 Camalot anywhere on the route. P2 eats thin nuts and cams, I placed a #1, #0 and #00 Metolius and a few small Aliens on the way up.
Oct 19, 2008
Both pitches are stellar. If you are solid at the grade, get on it! Not good for someone breaking into the grade though, as the moves before the first pin in the upper dihedral would have a fairly nasty fall....
Oct 17, 2008
After doing this I think 1/2 dozen times over the years, I had the best time on it yet on Sunday...doing it as a single 65-meter pitch! I ran out the bottom of the 3rd pitch a little way, until I was in the finger crack and then used a 2' sling on the first piece or two and had surprisingly little rope drag after I flicked my rope a few times to make it run down and right to the top pin of the second pitch. It was not difficult to pull rope for clips even on the last piece of the pitch. Disclaimer: I was climbing on a new-ish 9mm rope. Using longer slings on the top two pins of that would have probably made drag a complete non-issue even on a fatter or older rope. The PG-13 rating I am assigning to this is to take note of the awkward moves at the start of the "second pitch" that could produce a somewhat bad fall into and through that little tree.
Mar 12, 2007
Classic line. Did this in 45 degree temps, and the open-book nature of the dihedral made it quite balmy in the sun. While Aerospace and Aerial Book were experiencing sprindrift and ice fall, I soaked up the rays on this beauty.
Oct 23, 2006
Classic line, but I can't quite agree with all the rapture -- the stems are tricky and it's hard work getting past the row of pins. If you're only talking about the top pitch, sure that's lots of fun.
May 14, 2006
Fantastic. Excellent stemming. The second pitch is a joy with great pro. The route is a must do.
Sep 13, 2005
Funny Rich...yeah that one finger pocket was sweet. It's hard to believe how positive it was. I've never done stemming like that. What a route! At the crux, my calves were burning more than my arms. I wonder what it was like to finish the first ascent of that line? Jim must have been smiling ear to ear. Classic.
Apr 27, 2004
I know, I know but, I gotta say it...THIS ROUTE IS THA [BEST!] Awesome stemming the entire way. IMHO the moves off the ledge, to get to the first pin are rather FREAKY, solid but freaky, At least the tree would slow your fall!!! Seriously, if your short you gotta do quite few movs to comfortably clip that first pin (thank god they're solid) Did anyone else find use for that little one finger pocket?? I sure did!! The lower portion of the route was pretty hard as well, The stemming after the flake was pretty tricky_ As for the second pitch... I vote three stars at 8+, The crack is oh so fun but not that hard. Led it one day after Emerald City and thought it was quite a bit easier. Any how Over the Hilll is one of the funnest routes I've led!!!! Enjoy. climb on!!! rs
Mar 22, 2004
Just another Eldo classic with all the spice that goes with it !!!!
Oct 12, 2003
Got suckered out of a stem by left edges at first pin... don't do it! Stem and smear, both hands and feet all the way to the top - great climb!
Oct 4, 2003
Cool photo, Myke.
Jul 27, 2003
I was [surprised] to find actual holds on the upper crux dihedral. [The] second pitch is easy 5.9 with rests after each move, although it looks really hard from the belay-it is very unsustained.
Jul 17, 2003
Followed the lower pitches of this yesterday and got spanked. In that upper dihedral there's 3 pins hammered in roughly 5' apart. Its a stretch clipping the first, but the smallest purple alien will fit just below the first one if you can't reach the pin and want security before launching up. Higher up, near it s finish, look for the thin quarter size crimper out on the right face for the final crux pull. Took the sharp end on that upper face, and it put a smile on my face. An awesome pitch, with a perfect finger crack, that was sustained, but not as difficult as I thought it might be. As others have posted, small nuts are the ticket for the 1st 3/4 of the pitch. Then slip a small cam (yellow alien) in the upper flake and your home. As good as it gets for the grade.
Jul 5, 2003
Well protected with good moves. Stem and palm your way up the first pitch, finger jam on the second. A light rack will suffice(e.g. small cams and stoppers). Very enjoyable lead.
Jun 1, 2003
Loved Every minute of this climb's first 50-60 feet, though it was delightfully entertaining thoughout especially when you utilize the addition of Bachar [Yer] Arian as a TR from the top. Back to that first dihedral, Kick ass stemming lots of fun fancy stem work and tall boy opportunity. I would do it once a week if I didn't live in the Gunks. Had the honor of chatting briefly with Richard [Rossiter] about his thoughts on the climb later that day. Rick Clark
Aug 30, 2002
Yeah, but I think the photo needs to be rotated 90 degrees!
Jun 14, 2002
No lens flare filter, I swear! It was about 12:30, that's where the sun was. :-)
Jun 14, 2002
Nice PSed pic, Myke. ;-)
Jun 14, 2002
The first pitch is awesome. Enough said. Don't miss the upper pitch. It is about as good as 5.9 can get. Well protected and fairly sustained. The walk off to the climbers left goes along way, but keep going.
Apr 23, 2002
I don't know what it is worth, but I have to reiterate the quality of this route as well. The first pitch (I guess technically two run together) is my favorite in all of Eldo so far. Desperate, thin gear, balancy, and so on. And I apologize to anyone who had to witness my cuss-fest getting to the first pin...and my thanks to whomever replaced the pins, although, as a general rule I try not to fall on pins in Eldo, it is nice to know you can.
Jul 17, 2001
Even though the route's high quality should be apparent by all the other comments, I have to spray a little more on it. I've only done a few routes where each pitch has such continuous, excellent climbing with fantastic position and exposure (especially on P2). The crux pitch gradually increases in difficulty until the last move before a "thank you God" jug. Like Pat said, quite fun stemming--bring shoes that can smear and hold a small edge. The second pitch has several 5.9 cruxes that are all very entertaining. This route should be on everyone's to do list if you haven't already. Ok, I've rambled long enough now.
Jun 4, 2001
One of the most fun stemming problems Ive done. Maybe only second to Practice Climb 101, or the Naked Edge.
Jan 1, 2001
I have to agree that the 2nd pitch is as good as it comes....I led it yesterday as a 2nd pitch to Over and out...I still wanna climb the 1st pitch of Over the hill but haven gotten the nerve to, yet...soon, very soon.
Jan 1, 2001
- Scenic Route
It was a decent route, but not worth the effort of finding and going to. Or maybe it was, but more to get it off my list than to actually have done it. The route would be stellar if the top 1/2 were more [than] 30 feet of climbing. [The] junk at the bottom was not aesthetic or interesting and detracted from the solid clean stone up higher. The 10c grade is probably a little inflated. 25 feet of a bomb followed by 25 feet fo 3* climbing. 1 star overall. The approach is difficult to get right, and descending to [the] base of [Rincon] is equally tedious.
Jun 27, 2005
Actually not a bad route. Seemed easier than 10c.
Jun 4, 2003
- Surf's Up
First crux is sharp and techy, second is blocky and powerful. The 5.11 climbing after the crux is tricky but solid. Anchor has been updated and is solid.
Apr 3, 2014
Hey, Blake, either I need your beta for the upper crux or you need my beta for the lower crux! That upper crux feels desperate, especially after the lower one.
Mar 15, 2010
Opening boulder problem is worlds harder (for me) than the 2nd boulder problem. Awesome route, however.
Mar 14, 2010
- Trident
Great route. The final roof is a hoot via the middle crack which I kept looking up at and thinking "wow that's big" It's twice the size of Grandmother's Challenge or Tagger and bigger than Art's Spar, Whiplash or Suberb. Big. And you do go horizontal through it. For all but a short few moves you are on big holds, so it is less desperate than Art's Spar, but the crux move is hard, maybe hard for 10c, but once I found the key lock, it seemed OK. Finger strength might matter more than total power. Cool finish, but the poor rock on P1 is a detractor. 2 stars, and "s" for the first pitch.
Jun 27, 2005
- Ventura Highway
Was this the name you all had for it?
Feb 4, 2015
Mike Endicott led Greg Wright and me up this in 1982.
Feb 3, 2015
- Wendego
Climbing is inherently dangerous. One of the incredible things about Eldo is that you have to choice to risk it for the biscuit like climbers once did. If you are to concerned about being injured, don’t climb it, or just TR it and let those who want to go “clean” on it do so. Trust me, I am all for the general safety for the climbing community, but I think that in the end it is the responsibility of the individual climber to asses the potential risk and be aware of what they are getting into. If everyone was able to do it in the comfort of their own modern bubble, then everyone would be a climber.
Sep 11, 2017
How long do we have to stomach the intransigent retro-morons ruling over Eldo keeping the routes as they were in the way back Golden Age of Ignorance when a bunch of know-nothings either nailed their way up standing on gear or nearly touched lips with suicide holding to that old contrived "ground-up" ethic? The history of political struggle matters, the history of rock climbing and alpinism does not, and if you think it does, well, that's damned sad. The past is dead and utterly forgettable. It wasn't you, it wasn't me, and the survivors mostly don't care anymore, but that doesn't matter either. I care about the safety of climbers alive today, not how different some self-indulgent joker's ascent felt compared to a safe, chushy clip 'n' go experience. Why keep a mess of shitty pins that will pull at some point in our children's lifetimes instead of throwing in bolts so we can all suffer our way up yet another hideous Eldo slab? And yes, Skip was rad as God.
Aug 7, 2015
Wendego is excellent. Super desperate. I can't fathom climbing it barefoot. Skip is badass.
Nov 8, 2009
Too thin for me to think of it as pleasureable.
Jul 1, 2008
I climbed this route last week with a friend and we bounce tested the two pins before heading up, they seemed okay, so we climbed it. I actually took a small fall on the two pins after pulling through the crux, and to my surprise they held fine. This is a great line and you shouldn't be scared off of it by the pins. Techy footwork at the bottom, arete slapping, and a little corner climbing makes this one of the better routes I have been on in Eldo.
Nov 9, 2007
I climbed this last weekend (narrowly missing the on-site with a foolish foot slip). Got it clean after lowering off.Anyway, I have fixed a stopper through those two pins that are right next to each other. I couldn't get the swaged end through both eyes, so I stuck the nutted end through and clipped both ends with a locker to create a sort of contrived cable. I'm not convinced that it's all that great (maybe the wires could get broken over the sharp eyes of the pins?), but it sure is better than just clipping the old tat that's up there. As a side note, I'm very happy that it still has the gear that it does. I have wanted to climb it for a while now, and it would have been much less meaningful (or even interesting) if I thought I could just go fall my way up it all willy nilly. Besides, the other gear that you can fiddle in isn't all that bad. Thanks for keeping ethics alive, everybody.
Mar 1, 2005
Replaced the old purple piece of tat threaded through the first pins in the roof on 12-20-03. The new piece is doubled through the pins. If anyone plans on going up it might be possible to clip a very narrow karabiner of one of those mallion (?) rings that you can get at the hardware store into the pins. This will save everyone the hassle of replacing the tat periodically and will be a lot safer.
Dec 24, 2003
Thanks for puttin' a new pin in... seems to be a good compromise between the "leave as is " and the bolting camp-- I don't think folks are waiting in line for their next RP burn, yet it gives some enough confidence to give it a whirl. I thought the rest of the pins seemed pretty good, and depending on how hard you want to work, there is gear inbetween. BTW, I spoke w/ somebody yesterday who was present at the rope slicing incident and friends w the climber... he said that the leader blew off the bomber friend placement and did not have the next pin clipped when he tried to pull the roof, flew and consequently shredded his rope. So, keep in mind that the best hold on the entire route takes a bomber cam and leaves plenty of room for a good grip.
Jan 28, 2003
As part of the Celebrate Eldo and FHRC activities this past weekend, my partner, JC, and I attempted to replace the suspect pin on this route. We aborted an extensive removal attempt after we realized that we would probably break the pin trying to get it out. Leaving an unusable pin in place was not an acceptable solution. Therefore, this pin was driven back into the crack, and a backup "replacement" pin was driven above and adjacent to it. A steel link through both eyes of the pins (as a single point of protection to clip), will be installed. Currently there is a temporary loop (3") of webbing threaded through both pins. This point of pro is in the same location, but is now relatively good.The pins still look scary, and the "fixed" gear on Wendego will continue to deter sport climbers, and the masses. IMHO the possibility of slicing one's rope on the lip is a greater concern than the pins. One brave soul whipped and sliced his cord to 3 remaining strands. Undaunted, he lowered to the talus, cut his rope, tied back in, and sent. Not being as courageous or as confident, the fear of the rope slice gives me the Willies, and should be considered by any aspiring leader and his belayer.
Oct 8, 2002
Took a look at Wendego last week and noticed a total of four fixed pitons on the first pitch. The first piton is low down in the short corner under main dihedral and slab. I had always remembered it being there, but it was partially hidden by a small bush. It only protects the very beginning and is too low to be considered a back-up for the lost arrow that protects the crux. This lost arrow looks so-so, but it may have been recently put in. It is still only driven about halfway and tilts downward. The next two are fully driven angles that look newish and very good. There is decent gear between the upper pins, so trusting the lost arrow through the crux and for a few more moves is probably the only concern. It looks like Aliens or Ball Nuts might back up the crux pin well enough. I hope to summon up the courage to get on it soon to verify the condition of the fixed gear and try out the new micro gear. By the way, I really doubt that the FHRC/ACE would ever allow a bolt to go in, and then getting it by the Park would be nearly impossible (thankfully). Anyone who drilled a bolt would probably haunted by a former FHRC member for a good long time.
Apr 18, 2002
As I recall, the pin under discussion is a Lost Arrow. This being the case, simply removing it would solve the issue entirely since a #1 Slider would slip into the slot left by a Lost Arrow and generate a nearly bomb proof piece.
Apr 18, 2002
Steve: I do agree with, and respect your premise that a bolt would change the nature of the route by making the climber 100% sure of the pro, and I can appreciate the idea of the trad climb demanding much more mental control than a similarly bolted sport route. For instance, I did X-M the other day on the Bastille, and was shaking in my boots trying to figure out the crux moves with my gear consisting of a very small questionable RP and a distant alien 15 feet below, but when I pulled it off I must say that it was quite a different feeling than many sport routes I have done. A bolt right there would have made the route easy (relatively) It would be a shame to cover the rock with all that chalk (if bolted) as surely more attempts would be made. I guess the only issue lies in how are these type of routes to be maintained when the gear in place fails. I just feel it is somewhat irresponsible to replace fixed gear with something less than bombproof. Perhaps each route will need to be looked at, and if clean gear (aliens, rps atc) can be had then mere removal of the pin could make the climb more challenging and prevent failure from someone trusting it to hold, while on those routes that absolutely require something fixed perhaps bolts are in order. Tough call for sure....... Definitely a problem that I think was not expected before so many people took up the sport. I must add that I have not yet mustered the courage to do Wendego, but have it on the list for a day when I feel strong, and courageous! I appreciate the dialogue about this a value your opinion, and hopefully did not offend you by my comments...... (Some of my sarcasm did come from the AC posting!)
Apr 18, 2002
While I understand the idea and concept of keeping the the route in its original condition with regard to the fixed pins, I will once again state that fixed gear is fixed gear regardless of the form it takes. It does not matter whether it is a bolt or a pin. Both pieces are relied upon by the climber for pro, with the caveat that the pin is less stable. When you add to this that the pins are 20+ years old, I consider this laughable that people actually object to replacing the gear with bolts. The bolt will last longer, can be placed in the same locale, and represents the same caliber of climbing. This will in the long run reduce the damage to the rock, while allowing people to climb this fine route.
Apr 17, 2002
My 2 cents: The first pin is soft iron and will most likely break at the neck of the pin if someone tries to remove it with a hammer or funkness, leaving the blade in the rock quite impossible to remove. It is possible to clip the first pin and then downclimb to the ground to test it. Once on the ground if you weight the rope like crazy and the pin holds, it will probably hold a fall from the crux since the pin is at your chest for that move. There is a 0.4 or 0.5 TCU/Alien placement left a bit and below the first pin that will keep you off the ground should the pin fail, although you will swing a bit.
Apr 17, 2002
- Windy
So, I guess I have to disagree with some of the comments here.... We did not think this thing deserves "neglected classic" status. My partner and I have been doing a lot of the more obscure lines in Eldo lately, and we've nearly always been pleasantly surprised, but not with this one. It's a one move wonder crux that's literally the first move of the climb (assuming you walk in from the side and skip the unprotected slab start). The chimney was unique for Eldo, but the amount of dirt, lichen, and loose rock here and on the rest of the route made it hard to enjoy the climbing. Overall, so-so climbing and plenty of choss. I would be sure to do every other 5.11 on this wall before getting on this thing. "On the crest", a variation to Rincon, is another obscure one that we found to be quite fun. -Scott
Apr 10, 2009
Fun. The climb can be protected without the #5 but I admit. I'd always take the #5. Then again I am a pansy & like gear at my waist. Regardless, I was surprised to find an elegant solution to the power climbing. I did span the wall to get started with a right foot in a mega-high layback, then did something a little different (shameless beta to follow): I matched my left arm in the layback by under-handed (like undercling) palm-slapping the wall with the left hand under the right, then plopped my knee into a NO HANDS kneebar. I let go and grabbed the jug and it was over. That's the sort of elegant solution that makes my day, and makes me feel like I am doing a unique and cool climb. OK OK, knee bars are for sissies. No less, I liked it. YMMV depending on foot placement, leg length and ability to get into the right layback to start with.
Jun 27, 2005
I disagree w/ some of the above comments. First of all, you're probably better off without the #5 Camalot -- it's likely to block some good heel/toe action and there is plenty of higher albeit smaller gear to be had. Second of all, don't even think about laybacking: face climb using the wide crack for feet. I found the first two moves off of the pedestal to be the technical crux, but the business is committing to and pulling onto the hanging arrete just after.Note that medicore gear can be placed from the middle of this sequence which will greatly reduce the "eat shit" factor that Brad Bond referred to, but fiddling with it may well blow your onsite. At any rate, the ten feet of climbing off the pedestal is the sort of fabulous sequence that make Eldo special in spite of all the rotten bands. How to start:1. Walk in from the left. This is easy, lame and makes the first moves the crux.2. Straight up the slab. Nice climbing, but no pro. Easy for Eldo 5.9. If the leader goes this way and continues through the crux, the second probably should take option 1 as there will be a big horizontal in the rope, making the slab almost as dangerous as for the leader.3. Up the strenuous overhanging corner and cracks on right side of the pillar (5.9+). Strenuous for a brief spell. The most direct line, the best warmup and probably the way to go. How to finish:After P2, we continued more or less straight up which we found to be well protected 5.8 ending at the walkoff ledge just south of where Bachar Yer Arayan finsihes. The second half of this 100' pitch was fairly uninspiring and passes through a hideous 10' rotten section. An alternate finish is recommended. Gear beta: there is a good placement for the smallest (yellow) ball nut about seven feet above the pedestal at the start of the crux. This can be backed up with a good blue Alien and a couple of mediocre small RPs.
Jun 20, 2003
1st pitch: classic. 2nd pitch: good. 3rd pitch: aussie ordinary (0 stars). Far harder as an onsite.
Jun 20, 2003
I didn't have a #5 Camalot and thought it was ok -- other than the runnout above the crux where you're gonna eat shit anyway. I got a #3 and 4 Camalot about 1 foot underneath where the 5 would have gone and several wires above the #5 placement. Either way, commiting to the crux is scary and a wee bit hard even for the grade given here.
Nov 15, 2002
This route was rated 10d in the old Rossiter guide. NOT! The pure power lieback move off the top of the pillar is very hard. As I fell off it repeatedly (on toprope, of course), I was thinking to myself, "This isn't 5.10!" Glad to see it has a more correct rating here. It also is a serious lead. Definitely bring a #5 Camalot to protect the start. Otherwise, this is X rated. The second pitch is a very cool chimney.
May 16, 2002
Used to be a serious lead before #5 Camalots.
May 15, 2002
- Rotwand, The
- Kinnder Rooten
The correct spelling is "Kinnder Rooten", FA Layton Kor and Pat Ament 1963.
Apr 23, 2007
Wow, rotten rock, bad pro, stinging wasps... Sounds like you found yourself a treasure trove there, Ben. Enjoy.
Sep 10, 2003
- Lady Godiva
This thing is mega scary. I don't how you could live through a fall on this route, a true X rated climb. We bailed out right to avoid the heinous looking last pitch. There's poison ivy growing on the first pitch. Have fun!
Jul 20, 2014
- Most Honorable Hose Bag
It should also be mentioned that climbing on the lower South Rotwand wall is probably not a great idea when the lower parking lot is full. Approaching the wall, we both sent numerous small rocks down the hill towards the lot below. It could become an expensive (and not to mention dangerous) day very quickly.
Apr 30, 2014
- Rotwand Route
I'd never had poison ivy rash before climbing this route; my GF was covered with it. Maybe I got it from her?
Apr 15, 2016
Brushing against poison ivy has never bothered me in the Black Canyon, but I guess it did here. That was the crux for me. I'm currently suffering from it all over. The route is great. The ivy...not so much.
Aug 10, 2015
Previous poster's comment re: Poison Ivy is SPOT ON THE MARK! But this is only ONE of the objective hazards involving this route. The lower portion is quite junky and loose; even though there are cracks available for some "pro" they are associated with loose junk. The second pitch however, is fairly enjoyable and reasonably solid.
Feb 25, 2012
I did this route in November of 1978 or '79, I think. At the base of the route my partner, while belaying me, sat in (or near) a dried up plant that he learned later was most likely poison ivy or sumac (if there's a difference?) and had such a bad allergic reaction that he ended up in the hospital. We loved the route...well, at least I did. I went back over the next few years to do other routes on the Rotwand while my partner decided against such reckless behavior.
Feb 5, 2011
The thing that I've always loved best about Die Rotwand routes is that if you don't like any particular handhold you can just pluck it out and toss it over your shoulder.
Oct 24, 2007
While climbing this superb historic route today, Mick soloed right past me & took my picture! Although I've been climbing in Eldo for 13 years, this was my first Rotwand Route. HILARIOUS and classic climbing...hats off to Mick! Long live the Rotwand!
Mar 21, 2007
Speed record (not advisable): 5 min 10 sec on 24 May 04. 14 July 2004 completed summit trip #150 on this crag. Mostly on the Rotwand Route (mostly). This rock remains a unique adventure in Eldorado, and while I've pulled off numerous rocks over the years, it seems pretty cleaned off lately. Enjoy and be careful!
Jul 14, 2004
Enviro considerations: the Artesian aquifier is just below this rock. be considerate and deposit human waste elsewhere. Legal consids: the east side (descent slab) is not on park property, but belongs to the Eldorado Water bottlers. Use common sense to keep this resource available. Climbing consids: on-sight, this is still a serious undertaking. Not everyone has the experience to make this a safe one.
Oct 24, 2003
- Witch's Brew
- Yes Fragile
Tony (I was curious to see if Yes Fragile had been climbed again and came across your post)...I agree with your assessment of the album but not of the climb. In my humble opinion, the route is "classic" 4-star choss and junk; missiles and all.
Feb 5, 2011
"Yes, Fragile" Well, Yes, it is fragile. But fragile was a decent album, and this is a junky route, I can think of scores of others that might not use the name of decent music so poorly.... How about "Yes, Loose Rock" or "Yes, Future Missile". Perhaps "Yes, Chossy".
Feb 13, 2006
I'd like to add that this is "triple S" (but not VS), way different from S routes on other areas at Eldo. Not only is the gear mostly dubious and in bad rock, but many of the holds are loose (and you must use some of those), and the route finding is tricky. Not only is there no chalk or fixed gear to guide you, but you must decide which possible variation is less loose (not which is solid!) and perhaps decide between (bad) gear or less bad rock. Dealing safely with all three of these challenges, bad gear, bad rock, and tricky route finding requires a steady head and a patient approach. I recommend double ropes for two reasons: 1) You'll be searching left and right for anything that might hold more than body weight. 2) If you should have to bail, you'll need to downclimb. You could run one rope through a high piece (likely less than bomber) and down lead on the other.
Feb 12, 2006
- Secret Circle
- Shirt Tail Peak
- Can't Find My Way Home
- Cro-Magnon aka The Tail
As for the first pitch, an alternative to the "Description" (which is not in Levin's book) is to scramble up Gambit about 40 ft to just before a tiny (5 ft?) tree. Step right a few feet, up a right-facing corner/obtuse dihedral, step right a few more feet, up another right-facing corner (wasps here in Sept./Oct. as mountainhick's description mentioned), then put the belay at the large tree. If you choose to step up another 20 ft further up and right, you might end up with a belay in an ant's nest. I'd give this first pitch option a 5.9 PG-13 rating eating some medium/small nuts. As for the loose rock mentioned on the "business pitch", it is fairly easy to avoid/step around. Once you are established in the thin, continuous crack about 30 ft above the large belay tree, the rest of the pitch has solid rock. As a few have said, the linkup into Ginseng is a given. To avoid the looseness of the top of Ginseng mentioned by Walburn, simply head out left immediately after the crux of Ginseng, and cruise up the really nice arete (last pitch of Tiger Balm with solid rock). Only 5.4 (5.6 when windy), but it might be the best 5.4 I've been on. I personally consider this the best easy arete pitch in the canyon (and you can get here via Gambit too if interested).
Nov 25, 2017
Did this today with Teo Mavis. I agree with mountainhick...you want to be solid at the grade on this pitch. We linked this into Ginseng Junkie, and it made for a fantastic .10a link-up, although Ginseng Junkie has a lot of loose rock, and if any of it pulled, it would potentially drop into parties on Gambit. That being said, it is a fun, rope stretching pitch (Ginseng) to the top.
Sep 29, 2014
Good adventure climbing, Patrik lead the funky first pitch, circuitous, wandering up, right and up, and right and up. Seems like pro is where you need it if you are creative. Look out for some wasps in a thin crack! Second pitch, Good climbing if you are solid at the grade, but I would not recommend this for someone's first 5.10 lead! Expect some moderate run outs and having to work on some of the pro. Would be a banner pitch if the rock was truly solid and placements a bit more bomber. It might protect a bit better with differently shaped small passive gear than the nuts I had. There are some creaky and loose flakes and a sizable dinner plate flake that I avoided entirely that seems ready to peel off. Traversed left to the "The Throne" top bolt, then past the anchor, left into the corner and up to the big ledge/tree belay to continue up Ginseng Junkie rather than belaying at the bolt/knife blade anchor on The Throne.
Sep 11, 2012
The second pitch is good with fun moves beginning with the roof. Green alien at the crux. Make a good placement where the crack ends(blue alien) and run it out to the bolt, or as I did, placed an ify yellow alien in a very hollow flake. The first pitch is funky.
Oct 18, 2004
Great route but David is not kidding about the loose rock up there. I too clipped the bolt on Throne just below the anchor because I found the slab moves to be pretty tricky and well above my last piece (a small nut). I found good gear placements often occupied the good holds, mostly nuts and small cams. I also used the edge of S. Jam Crack at times for my right hand and foot and got a good rest. If going to the top it's probably better to climb past the anchor and belay a the next ledge wih a large pine tree.
Apr 12, 2003
The red line on the photo above is Gambit, so Cro-Magnon follows a line halfway between Gambit and the big dihedral of Mountaineer's.
Mar 21, 2003
- Destruction
- Double Life
I concur, Doctor. The sketchy house of wedged flakes down low felt way cruxier than getting past the unnecessary pins. Some OK climbing up high on P.2, but hardly a classic. Any climbing, however, would have been better than queueing up for Gambit on a Saturday. But on a deserted weekday? Find something else.
May 16, 2006
- Emperor's New Shoes, The
- Future Primitive
Did this route last Mo. A so-so route, with lots of loose rock, and vegetation. But gets you to a great summit! For pitch one, we stayed in the gully and belayed at a tree (~ 150 ft), and pitch 2 brought us all the way up to the ridge, with a right traverse into a gully at the end. Pitch 3, on the ridge/face was maybe 5.5, and pitch 4 mostly a scramble. Good climbing in spots on the face, but not a stellar route in my judgement. Not recommended for novice leaders because of the difficulties of dealing with the tons of loose rock and challenging route finding.
Jun 29, 2006
Did this route last Saturday. This route is very mountaineerish. Lots of bushes and loose rock everywhere. The Eldo guide book made by Falcon we had was worthless, not even a line to indicate where the route went. Thus, for P1 we went straight up the gully 20 feet past the red rotten ledge to a large tree with several slings on it (150 feet). Avoid the urge to go up the red rotten ledge to the arete. The arete looked overhanging there and, I am guessing, 5.10ish. For P2 we stayed about 30 feet below the arete and moved through several bushes one of which was thorny. We followed a large crack system with about a million variations. Belay was set up at a moderate sized tree about 20 feet below the arete on the south side (~150 feet). The last pitch was very easy probably all [fourth] class climbing. For P3 we came up to the arete right where you cross to the other side of a large gully and up to the top of Shirt Tail another 150 foot pitch. The trail to this route is very poor with loose rock everywhere. There was lots of [vegetation] and loose rock everywhere but the pro placements were pretty good. Also the rappel station 100-150 ft to the north of the summit was pretty good, a little forth class downclimbing (20 feet) and it's a breeze after that, 3 quick 60-70 foot repels and we could walk off. Count on taking some time to figure out where the route goes! A good climb with a great view, but I wouldn't give it any stars. -Jason
Jul 12, 2004
- Gambit
We did the start slightly to the left following the face crack which was enjoyable. The pitches were all really fun and had interesting movements and beautiful views. There were four other parties trying to do the climb in front and behind us on Sunday. Lots of small rockfall.
3 days ago
My follower left my 0.75 with an Edelrid draw attached on the final pitch last night just before sunset. I can't make it up today to retrieve it. So if you find it, you can reach me at 505-218-7589, and I'll do my best to repay the favor.
Dec 3, 2017
Gear note: at the end of the P2 dihedral (edit: P3 in the above description), there is a #2 slot before a final crux step to the left. Yesterday I removed a #3 that had been stuck there for several years. It's a #2 slot - remember that. mountainproject.com/photo/1…
Nov 15, 2017
It was crowded, but it was good.
Nov 12, 2017
Ran into a swarm of wasps early on in the 2nd pitch on Oct. 20th. Left cordalette & a quicklink on the tree at the top of the 1st pitch. Probably could have climbed through them but wasn't feeling it. Good luck!
Oct 21, 2017
Awesome route! We used double 50m ropes and easily linked P2-3 but didn't try to link 4-5. We weren't sure when to go to the arete on P5, so we just kept in cracks and topped out 5' to the right of the arete. 2 x 50m: rappelling off option A worked in two long raps all the way to the packs. From the first sketchy downclimb tree viewed from the top along the ridge, pass the next two webbing trees to a third smaller tree with blue/red cordalette at 165'. Then rap to ground. Watch your lines for cracks and loose rocks when pulling!
Oct 6, 2017
Climbed this route today in 3 pitches linking 2-3, and 4-5 in the description. It felt like one of the easier .8s in Eldo with only a few moves in that range. The loose chunks in the last 150ft. took this climb down to 3 stars in my book. Fixed BD #3 at the crux roof and fixed BD #4 above the fixed pin in the offwidth of pitch 4 in the description. A fun climb without a soul in sight.
Sep 7, 2017
1) The approach isn't as bad as it's made out to be - 30 min if you're not meandering. 2) The rock isn't as loose as it's made out to be. The belays are littered with softballs --> microwaves, but the actual climbing is solid (save a few on the last pitch). 3) Every pitch protects extremely well. 4) The descent is very easy to find, the 20 foot downclimb is mid-4th Class. Climb it, it's spectacular.
Jul 24, 2017
There's some really great climbing interspersed with large, loose rocks. The looseness only detracted from the quality of the climbing once on P5 (I think). There was a shallow chimney where I really wanted to place some gear but thought a fall on that rock would send rubble (and likely me) careening off the side of the cliff. It's a little heady, but there are some solid holds in there if you look around. I'd climb through much more loose rock than that to get to make that airy step into the dihedral on P3... Woh, super cool and scary but the good kind of scary. We linked pitches 2 and 3 as well as 4 and 5 without too much rope drag. On the P4-5 linkup I placed a single rack of C3s, doubles of #0.5-#2, as well as a #3-4 and a bunch of nuts. It's just a long pitch; probably pretty close to 60m. I barely had enough gear left to set up a belay at the top, but if you bring a cordellete, you can probably just sling a giant boulder and call it good. We did the A1 descent and were confused when we got to the first rap tree and saw another tree on the P5 arete (if you went that way) with a sling and rap ring. We thought: "wait... is *that* the first tree?". It's not, we were indeed already at the first tree. Continue down the ridge a little bit further to the actual A1 tree. We rapped with a 70m and almost made it all the way to the trail from the second rappel; we landed on a ledge ~15ft above the base and found multiple ways to scramble down. From there, you're 30ft uphill from that crazy crooked tree. Get on this route, it's so worth it.
Jul 31, 2016
Great climb! Be careful on the belay edges, though. There is a ton of choss and substantial sized boulders that can be easily dislodged.
Oct 28, 2015
Terrific, fun route. Some of the cruxy moves on the 2nd pitch (combining pitches 2 & 3) are loose and rattly - a bit unnerving for the leader, but they seem to be wedged in place fairly well. Some people are worried about the large blocks on pitch 4 being loose, but to an alpine climber, they will seem pretty solid. This pitch is a pure joy. Enjoy!
Jul 13, 2015
Highly recommend, decent A1 too. I've done decent A, in the dark, rain, stuck rope, and aliens attacking...ok, no rain or aliens, but we did the rest. Did A1 today, so so easy, and a 65m rope put us easily onto the dirt at the bottom. It's still a scramble to reach the tree, don't blow it, but not very far off the top. A1 first tree currently has some fairly new looking 6-7mm cord, along with a collection of other webbing and multiple rings/quicklinks. A2 second tree has older webbing and also multiple rings.
Jul 12, 2015
A partner and I climbed this together Saturday June 13, 2015. He doesn't have much experience climbing trad, so I led all the pitches. The first pitch was super easy and is soloable. In fact, the party in front of us did this and roped up starting at the second pitch. By the time we racked up, their second was already headed up pitch two, so I wasn't worried about rockfall. I actually missed the pigeon ledge. I climbed up to it and got lost, so I yelled down at my partner to check MP. That's when I realized I was on the ledge. As I was so close to my partner, I elected to continue on using a double length alpine draw to protect the traverse. Rope drag was not an issue. I never saw the belay for the end of the fourth pitch, so I continued on and was able to reach the summit with about 4 feet of rope left of my 60m. I highly recommend this. The climbing is easy and pro abundant. It makes for a long stellar push to the summit. Awesome climb. For the descent, we used option 1A under the Shirttail Peak Page. This was easy just be careful pulling the rope. I knocked a hand-size rock off pulling the rope on the first rappel.
Jun 15, 2015
Take the advice about the descent seriously. Don't use the first tree! I just did, and it was super sketchy and could've ended up badly without a prussik and knots at the end of the rope.
Apr 5, 2015
When I climbed this, I got off route. I was expecting a 5.7 pitch and did the 5.8 variation, and as I am an inexperienced trad climber I gave myself heinous rope drag. I also found myself struggling to find a placement in one section of this pitch. Great climb, well worth doing, but I would caution that trad climbing an Eldo 5.8 is not a walk in the park.
Jul 20, 2013
If you want to avoid the 3rd pitch pin-'protected' regular line, step out right onto the steep face. Unprotected, but un-sustained 5.7. Reach up; what you need will be there. From the next ledge, you can avoid an awful lot of loose rock by heading left about 10 feet; there used to be a little tiny tree here. Follow the obvious fist crack up a few feet, then traverse right across the unlikely-looking but actually 5.5 face. This puts you on a nice arete. As usual for aretes, there's not much pro, but the climbing is easy. Said arete will take you all the way to the summit. You can make it there in one long pitch, but the rope drag could be a doozy. Plus there's a cool, classic little belay stance that needs to be savored. Not a good place to be in high winds.
May 3, 2013
Found- gear. Email tomwalter55@gmail.com to describe multiple pieces of protective gear left on Gambit, in Eldo. Found on Sat. Sept. 29, 2012.
Oct 8, 2012
This route is fantastic -- well worth the 30 to 40 minute approach. The last two pitches, though rated just 5.7 and 5.6, have incredible position and exposure. Don't miss this climb!
Sep 23, 2012
Done in 5 pitches. 30 minute approach. Great climb, protection everywhere. Lots of loose rock, especially at the crux roof on the top of P2. P2 and 3 can and should be combined - the pigeon ledge is very small. The beginning moves past the half-driven pin on P4 had us scratching our heads for a while. Don't think of it as an off-width, and it's easy. #4 not needed, and there's one stuck in the back of that crack. P5 we went up and left from the belay ledge and moved left on an easy ramp to the arete and finished on that. No loose rock there and spectacular position reminiscent of Icarus/Rebuffat's but a heck of a lot higher!
Sep 10, 2012
Great climb! Had it all to ourselves this morning. For anyone interested, there's a fixed, offset stopper on pitch 2, and a fixed C4 #3 right at the crux. I fiddled with it for a while on lead, but it's in there pretty good. There's also an older style #5 at the start of the 4th right after the pin that looks like it's been there a while. We did the climb in 3 pitches, linking 2/3, 4/5. The crux right before the ledge on pitch 3 had some angry bees that wouldn't leave a couple important holds, so I rate my version 5.9.
Jun 30, 2012
Super Classic route. I think this route is a must do for anyone. The approach is not that bad. Great views. We did it in three pitches linking the last two w/ a 70 m. Started late to beat the heat. Started around 9:30. The top of the second pitch belay loses shade around 11am. The rappels are super casual and really easy to find. Loved every second of this climb.
Jun 24, 2012
Found a 0.4 Black Diamond Camalot lying at the belay on pitch 1, a little weathered but in seemingly good shape. Message me if you lost it.
Apr 26, 2012
Counted only 3 rocks that moved on the last 2 pitches. People make it seem like some Spielberg movie trying to get to the top with rocks falling all over the place. It's definitely worth the hike and having to watch what you're grabbing (which is pretty standard for Eldo).
Jan 4, 2012
It is an easy eight but still a very good climb. I cannot stress enough the importance of watching out for loose blocks. I will admit that is what makes this climb exciting though, gently climbing a dead vertical, shattered chunk of rock. Not to worry, there are PLENTY of good bomber gear placements, so much fun.
Sep 17, 2011
An absolutely spectacular route. My favorite .8 in Eldo thus far. We did it in 4 pitches. I don't know which I'd consider the crux, the 2nd or the 3rd. But, I enjoyed and was challenged more by leading the 3rd than the following the 2nd. In any case, every pitch was great fun even with a bit of loose blocky stuff on the fourth. The descent was, as described, not obvious. But, it wasn't too difficult to find. Pay attention to the prior comment about looking beyond the tree that, at first, appears to be the obvious choice.
Apr 10, 2011
6 parties on this today (a Sat. in spring)...get up early or hit this late to avoid potential clusters. Great climbing even though the giant flakes on the last 2 pitches can be terrifying.
Apr 3, 2011
I did an early ascent (2nd ascent) in 1965 with Bob Culp (1st ascent), 'cause Bob wanted to show the route to his friends. I took a short fall seconding, since a big hold that I was standing on simply broke off. There's a reason the ledges are rubble covered, and the rock is very "brittle" in places. Other than that quibble, this is a simply marvelous route for a midgrade climber. Just another old Eldorado "classic."
Mar 14, 2011
Repeated this fun route recently. Much of the upper climb is on detached but solidly interlocked blocks. I wouldn't yard on the holds indiscriminately by any means, and some of the gear is suspect. Its not loose by alpine standards, though.
Sep 13, 2010
As Dustin B and Count Chocula say, the upper face is scary: feels like enormous, puzzle-wedged, loose, vibrating blocks hold the whole face together. Don't climb it, or climb it once; the location is amazing. But you can still climb Gambit, get comparable or better location, and avoid the Jenga Russian Roulette at the top. Just use the first belay ledge on the face to cut down and left to the arete and finish on a Rewritten-quality blade. After turning on to the face and enjoying the stellar hand crack for 30 or 40', don't set the belay too high and right up the ledge. That makes it hard to cut back down to the arete. Move a little left, and belay lower on the bench. The arete awaits.
Sep 5, 2010
The last time I climbed Gambit was over 3 years ago, and I had forgotten how loose the last pitch really is...sketchy blocks everywhere. Place gear wisely and climb softly. The position is sensational, though. If you like to sew things up (as I do), bringing the #4 will be worth it. You really don't need it for the awkward start to the 3rd pitch...just clip the pin and layback that mutha, but there are numerous places to plug the #4 once established in the crack on the steep face above.
Aug 30, 2010
Third pitch (when climbed as four) was my favorite. Almost vertical with great jams and amazing exposure. That belay ledge is freakin' awesome. I though that the roof at the end of P2 had some suspect holds that seemed really hard to avoid.
Aug 29, 2010
Forgot to mention: there's a huge jug underneath the roof on the second pitch that's just waiting to bust off. Bang on it lightly and you'll hear that it's as hollow as a termite-ridden tree. Skip the jug, use some holds on the right, and it'll take you straight through.
Aug 28, 2010
Freaking Fantastic Fun. With capital FFFs. I'd never done this route before today, and it was absolutely killer. One of the best I've done in Eldo, for pure enjoyment. The pro is bomber, the exposure is amazing, the crux isn't too bad and is really well-protected, and every single pitch (except the first) is top-notch. My advice is to link the second and third pitches--not too long, and a bit of rope drag, but you can reduce this to almost nothing by using longer slings on the 5.7 roof on the second pitch. Save some bigger pieces for the 5.8 crux up at the top of the third pitch. The off-width is kind of weird.... I wound up stemming/laybacking it, and stayed completely out of the crack. It was a hell of a lot easier that way, and not too hard. Also, instead of doing the last pitch straight up the face, move left to the arete and finish the route that way. You'll be glad you did.
Aug 28, 2010
Awesome fun! Great leads, especially the second and third pitches. (I did it in four pitches, as per Levin's excellent book.) DO watch out for loose rock that you can easily kick off the belay ledges by accident. Have fun!
Aug 23, 2010
The trail was built in Oct/Nov 2009 and was fully funded by ACE (www.aceeldo.org) through generous donations from climbers. Visit the website and make a donation today!
Aug 5, 2010
Today, Aug 2, 2010 I rope-soloed this fine route, one of my favorites in Eldo. I was very pleasantly surprised to see that a well-constructed climbers' trail, including a couple of ladders (low-angle) has been built that gets you from the base of Center Route/Rincon area right to the base of Gambit. That scramble that we always had to do is now unnecessary. No one has mentioned this, so it may be a very recent improvement. Thanks to whomever created it!
Aug 2, 2010
Representative of Eldorado climbing in general, but the grade seems a bit off as this is easier than the first pitch of Werks Up or Osiris. Will Compton's descent description is correct. If you're not certain, back yourself up w/ prussic and knots at the end of your rope! Ben, your cam was not seen.
Jun 24, 2010
Did this for a second time today, and it was just as fun as I remember. We did it in two long pitches with a 70m which turned out to be perfect. We belayed from the ledge just before the final roof (where the fixed pin is). My partner had a purple C4 walk in on him on the ledge. Beer for retrieval!
Jun 19, 2010
As a 4th pitch variation, after pulling over the chockstone after the offwidth crux, you can head left and up the rotten ledge. The first right-facing dihedral looks like it goes at a thin 9, the second (further left) is a left-facing dihedral with a bomber handcrack in the back leading up to a jugalicious roof traverse left. I'd put it somewhere in the 5.6, 5.7 range. Continue up obvious and good cracks to the ridge line and straddle the arete to the finish! Super fun, but I don't know if it's better than the original 4th pitch line as I haven't done both!
Mar 15, 2010
4 stars?!? Really? Can I buy some of whatever you guys are smoking? Did any of you thump on one of the thousand or so loose, stacked blocks that the route is basically made of? I'm usually pretty liberal with my stars, but I just can't see this being a 4 star route. Just opinion really, but I can barely give this one three. Yeah the quality of the climbing is good, and the setting is excellent, and loose rocks never ruin my day, but you couldn't pay me enough to climb this thing underneath another party.
Jan 17, 2010
There is a big loose rock (about 2'x4') about half way up the first pitch, on the first ledge where there's a small tree -- be careful! I accidentally dislodged the thing by backing into it last Friday Aug 7, when it shifted about two feet, (slightly injuring my foot in the process, could've been much worse), but it stopped. I didn't think of it at the time (too jazzed, rapped off), but someone would do future climbers a big favor if they discover it's still unstable and push it all the way down, safely of course -- it's not like there's not already a gully full of loose rock up there!
Aug 10, 2009
Just spectacular fun! Skip the bird ledge and link 2&3. Also, a vote to finish the money pitch (the initial turn onto the face) at the first bench-perch ledge about 30 or 40 feet up. For a magic last pitch, take that ledge left to the arete-it slants down, then steps up to the corner. Sail for the top. Nicer than Rewritten; doesn't get any better. Continuing up the face via different crack systems is classic, too; do it sometime. But after climbing the arete, I can't seem to go the other way! For descent, the Jones/Clopton comments get you there. The right tree is 100+ feet out the ridge, and the turn to the 10' downclimb is kind of framed by a squareish slot. There's a boulder/flake/horn sticking up and partially hiding the slings on the tree's base.
Jul 28, 2009
Rossiter describes two variations to the top 60m of this route (last two pitches as described above). Climbed variation 'A' with C. Schnatwinkel on 7.25.09 and found it excellent. From the top of the short offwidth, work right to the next crack system and head straight up. This crack is visible just right of the indicated line on the topo photo. The protection is good, the exposure is exciting, and the moves are very steep and sustained, but never harder than 5.8+. This is a good finish for those desiring a bit more spice than the standard pitch. I second Chris Darr's post on the approach--there was an enormous rockfall there, this past spring from the look of it. It is very unstable with large, potentially foot-squashing boulders. Be cautious and allow an extra 15 minutes.
Jul 27, 2009
An excellent climb. P2 and P3 go together quite nicely, although I did give myself a bit of rope drag by not using a long enough sling just below the pigeon shelf. I must say, a little rope drag was a small price to pay for not having to smell all the pigeon droppings while belaying on that stance.
Jun 24, 2009
Solid climb. Dihedrial belay to top-out is 1 pitch (60m), never really saw "shrub" mentioned in the guidebook other than one that was ~15' from summit. Class 4 walk off is not apparent, but is the easiest descent. Fun climb, but watch out for loose rock.
Mar 23, 2009
A bit more info on the last pitch.... Head straight up from the anchor and head left where it looks like you should step right or head left up a small incline. If you go right, then you'll end up on an inclined slab with a crack toward the back where there's a large overhang. The overhang looks tough and is clearly not the 5.6 way to go (not to mention has loose blocks above the overhang). When you head left, go to a corner and head straight up. The blocks above look chossy from below, but are actually pretty decent. If you go left and pass by the corner, you'll have to pull out onto the face. This appears to be the way to go if you want to hit up the arete. For my 5.8-lead head...it was a bit much, especially since I was concerned about the remaining gear I'd get. There doesn't appear to be much out that way. Thanks for the great descriptions everyone! Loved it!
Mar 2, 2009
This is a great climb. Thanks for the awesome route description. The approach was very scenic and only felt like it took half an hour. I brought the #4 and wished I had left it at home. On the way back we stopped at the boulders off the trail about a quarter mile from the road. What a great January day.
Jan 18, 2009
The only thing that could do this route justice is the poetic description deposited here for you all on mountain project... thanks to MW.
Oct 5, 2008
The standard way to do it in 3 pitches is to combine 2&3 and 4&5 as listed in the above desciption. The first pitch still ends at the big tree. Done this way the last pitch is the longest one, and you need a 60m rope.
Jun 20, 2008
Great route. Tricky and sketchy having to negotiate seemingly loose chunks. I followed my buddy Chris T up this, and we did it in 3 very long pitches. The best part was instead of following the route right to the face, we went straight up a 5.9 roof and had access to the arete which was breathtaking, and the 5.9 roof has a couple techniques that were so much fun. Considering the loose chunks, the 5.9 upper pitch was more enjoyable and easy for me not having to death grip.
Nov 12, 2007
This is a remarkably popluar climb on weekends! Start it just above the Fir tree bent around a bulge in base of cliff. The guidebooks seemed confusing, so did this in 3 perfect pitches, which were natural and logical. P1 is mostly a scramble, up to a massive flat ledge. P2 is continuous, a series of bulges that are awkwardly fun, and finishes on a very large flat ledge. P3 clips an old pin (looked fine to me), traverses onto the face to the right, then romps up a single steepish continuous crack system (very unusual for Eldo) to the top (180'). P2 & P3 are steep, juggy, with pro placements everywhere (0.5 - 2" mainly). From the top (where it's easier to see), note the Ponderosa tree 15' below the crest of the ridge, about 80m away. That's the one; a 26m rap takes you into a grove of trees where a small tree 5m lower is hung with hidden slings. Another 26m rap and you can walk off into the gully.
Sep 16, 2007
This is easily one of the best climbs I've done. Fantastic exposure on the last 2 pitches (rivaling the last pitch of Yellow Spur/Icarus or Rewritten). We were surprised how steep the last 200 ft. were. Linking pitches 2 and 3 was not a big deal with little rope drag. While the 5.8 dihedral did not seem to be the crux, exiting out its roof and steep jugs was a little taxing. I found the crux to be a little traverse move off a crimp drifting right: final pitch. This was just before gaining the arete 50 ft below the summit (although it seems there are multiple ways up the final pitch). If possible, move to the arete to finish, the earlier the better. Fantastic finish! Of the descent options, descent A1 seemed best (see Shirt Tail's main page), scrambling and shuffling around ledges to the north 50 ft. PAST the first rappel tree (this first tree requires the exposed downclimb and can easily be seen from the arete on ascent). TIE KNOTS ON YOUR ROPE ENDS!!! One rappel with a 60m deposits you at a small ledge. An easy 40' scramble down and south takes you to the final rappel. TIE KNOTS ON YOUR ROPE ENDS!!! (as always!). Rappel to the ends and do an easy 30' scramble to the ground.
Jun 11, 2007
Michael Walker, this is the best description of a route I've found on Mountain Project. Bravo for painting a beautiful picture and getting everyone psyched to be on this climb.
May 1, 2007
My hands down favorite 5.8 (or 5.7) in Eldo. Also my first 5.8 trad lead. This climb was fantastic. I led every pitch and found the hanging/bulging crack on the fourth to be the crux of the climb. The 5.8 pitch protected well and wasn't too tough if you work your feet. For pitch 4 I went about 10 or so feet to the right after the offwidth/layback move and pulled up onto a ledge then climbed some crack that seemed pretty burly for a 5.7 and at first traversed left then angled off to the right. It felt tougher than a 5.7 and was the crux of the climb for me. Was that the normal route? Also the A1 option for rappels gets you to a nice ramp that is easy to downclimb in just two rappells with a 70 meter rope. I can't wait to go climb it again.
Apr 28, 2007
This is one of my favorite 8s in Eldo. The top of P2 (as described) is currently an unpleasant, bird crap infested place. Better to move on and combine with the next pitch, which only makes for a 110' pitch anyway. Two confusing areas on this climb are the start, and P4 after the pin and weird offwidth move. It is possible to begin higher and farther right (under the Mountaineer's Route) and follow a rotten band left into the corner on P1. But it'sn better to begin as stated directly under the Tiger Balm Arete and climb up but slightly right into the same dihedral. One time a friend was leading P4, and after surmounting the chockstone he started traversing left on a giant ramp (the actual route goes right here around a corner). If you do this, you will miss out on the top section of the route. However, you can climb the top of the Tiger Balm Arete, which is very easy but reminiscent of the top pitch of the Yellow Spur.
Sep 18, 2006
Climbed 6 Aug 06 with S. Costello...thought this was an excellent route and among the best moderates in Eldo, worth the lengthy and tiring approach. Take extra slings. We climbed per Rossiter, combining P2 and P3 as described above, doing the offwidth as a 20-foot demi-pitch, and combining the two upper pitches. There is no bad climbing on this route, although there's a lot of choss, and some scary house-of-cards stacked boulders on the last 100 feet or so. If you combine the last two pitches, be prepared to use your whole rack! It's about 180-200 feet. Gambit is Eldo in a one-route capsule: some wild moves, a couple of roofs, plenty of loose rock, occasional sketchy pro, less-than-great anchors, good exposure, steep and sustained. Unlike most of Eldo, we were alone on the route. Westside rappels were not too bad although a little dirty. Be careful of length on the last one, esp. if you have a 50m rope.
Aug 7, 2006
P1 was actually a nice warmup. Nate linked P2 and P3. P4 was wild! I skipped the pin and walked a #4 until I was over the wide part. Then the face was spectacular! The belay seat on the crown of the 2' ledge was a real nice place to spend some time pulling rope. The walkoff (option C under Shirttail Peak description) was craptacular. The rappels must really suck to be worse.
May 29, 2006
Flynn here: Here's a fun, aesthetic variation (could be Tiger Balm Arete, I'm not sure) from the top of the offwidth pitch. If you've enjoyed Rebuffat's, or the last pitch of the Yellow Spur, or if you just like serious air, this is calling your name! Step carefully left on the rubble-strewn ledge to find a beautiful little slab just right of a V-slot. The perfect crack in the back of the slot is your belay anchor; the tree you'll see is probably a bit too far. Follow what turns out to be 5.6+ face holds kinda diagonally up and right across the slab to the arete. Turn carefully onto it, then follow the arete up into the sky. Belay at a ridiculously convenient stance just left of the arete and give the top 50' or so to your partner.
Mar 16, 2005
Patrick, I believe you were the party ahead of Larry and I on saturday. Geez holy people on shirttale, it was downright crowded that day. I saw your camalot and thought ewww that looks like a new piece, I picked at it for a moment and then left it as I couldn't even move it. Sorry man, it stays up there for a bit longer. I don't think Larry pulled it either. Very quality route and airy too. Definately link P2 and P3 together, don't bother with that pigeon shit ledge, it is too small and not worth stopping at. Also, I didn't even notice the "void" that it is talked about in the description starting P3. P4 0n Rewritten has much more exposure than P3 on Gambit.
Nov 8, 2004
Hi Larry, we must've gotten on a bit earlier, but I did notice the close proximity of one party to another at about 1PM (11/6/2004); hope it didn't detract too much from the quality of the experience. We left a 0.5 Camalot on the last pitch. If you were able to free it, and feel like returning, I would be eternally thankful (+ some nice beers as well - ptfinnegan@gmail.com). Link pitches 2+3, 4+5 (ridiculous exposure on 4+5). There is a ton of loose rock/debris on the rappels (2 - using the 2nd tree ~ 100 ft NW); take care.
Nov 6, 2004
I did this route the other day. 30 minute hike tops. Stay to the left along the rock as you go up the trail between Rincon and the West ridge. This is the easiest way and safest way up this severly eroded path. We did this climb in three pitches and probably could have done it in two. It took us two to the big ledge half-way up and then one pitch all the way to the top a full 60M rope and a great pitch with awesome climbing. A lot of expsoure for a 5.8. Must do in Eldo.
Jul 8, 2004
If you combine pitches 2 & 3 (or any of course) be sure to manage the rope well. As you move into the crack following the airy traverse on pitch 3 there is a spike with a small cleft in it to your left. Don't let your rope pass through this. Ours did and was pinched big time. We were able to pull it through but it forced the leader to belay in the crack 15 feet below the end of the pitch due to rope drag.
Dec 29, 2003
If I could rate it 5* I would, the upper pitches are so much fun......climbed it today on a cold fall sunny day with only 4 other people on all of the Rincon area........
Oct 25, 2003
For pitch 2: Save at least one #2 or #3 Camalot for the long stretch of wide crack that leads to the crux of that pitch, which comes in the last 30 feet. If you don't mind the extra weight, carrying doubles of #2 and #3 on this climb will eliminate any need for backcleaning or worrying about your pro at any point. You can partially compensate by leaving the #4 Camalot at home.
Sep 15, 2003
Couple of things...lead this today...stellar route. Recommend combining 1 & 2, 4 & 5. Top of 2 is excellent (7) overhanging stemfest/crankfest. Lots of fun there. Which takes you to the pigeon shit ledge which is not THAT bad, its small, kinda slick on lower edge, but good vantage to watch your 2nd come up. As Holly mentioned, watch for dive bombing, agro birds (swallows) here. They will come to within a few feet of your head and land in the crack above this (optional) belay station. No worries...they mean no harm. Very cool 3rd pitch, stepping way right into dihedral (left facing) and (7) climbing up to roof (8). Turning the roof left, reminded me of Chiante on West Ridge...to roomy ledge. Then move right, clip pin and layback offwidth. This short (one move) layback is not that hard...7+ max, and takes you to the upper face. I say, clip the pin, leave the #4 in the truck, as Tyler states, and move up to the upper face. Put a small cam in the corner and the fun begins. This upper face offers excellent climbing at a moderate grade with tremendous exposure. Its steep, but only (7) and has good stances for placing good pro. I back cleaned quite a bit of pro on this entire route. On the left facing dihedral pitch (P2 for me), I walked the #3 cam 4 times, finally leaving it in roof...good stances allow this the entire route. But, be confident at the grade if leading, as the exposure can be a bit sobering for those breaking into the grade. The pitches are long (when combining) and pretty sustained for the grade. A classic not to be missed, worth the long approach. 4 raps from the southeast took us to the base of the climb...fun day in Eldo.
Jul 10, 2003
To rappel west, go approximately 80 feet north and you will see a large tree with a webbing anchor down about 10 feet from the ridge. This has an exposed down climb without a ledge. Following the advice above, continue north along the ridge about 50 feet further. Looking down onto a 10 foot wide ledge you will see a tree with a webbing anchor about 10 feet down from the ridge. Using a 60 meter rope we rappeled about 85 feet to a large ledge and walked south 15 feet and down 10 feet to the next webbing anchor. Rappel and walk off.
May 25, 2003
Climbed this yesterday (FUN -- although a little loose and creaky in places), and found the walk-off to be relatively easy and straighforward. It probably didn't take much longer (and was probably safer) than doing the rappels, and had the added bonus of putting us near Cadillac Crag to finish up the day.
Jan 1, 2003
I agree with the above suggestion for two pitches...LONG stretches of amazing climbing in a cool spot. For a fun moderate (sub 5.11) approach I suggest Rincon pitch 1 to Reveley Adams hand traverse, to bolts, up center route (10b boulder problem above bolt anchor, 8+ hand traverse left, etc), to the last pitch of rincon (bolt 20 ft. up, to thin crack, etc. excellent tour.
Aug 18, 2002
Jeez, all this good beta taking the mystique out of the off width! Admittedly, I thrashed around in full arm bar style until wedged 2' higher and said: "5.7? there has got to be a better way!" Figuring out that better way was such a good experience. Typically, regardless of the apparent quality of the fixed gear at Eldo, I try and back it up where possible. In the future, I'd bring my #3.5 as suggested by Roger and not bother with the pin.
Aug 16, 2002
I can't believe (but I am glad) that the 45 min hike discourages more traffic on this route. Absolutely fantastic with no poor pitches or sections (pitch 1 even being a pretty nice warm-up). That off-width slot, although short, just looks ... well let's say uninviting. Fortunately nothing 'forces' you into it and it's quite straightforward to climb past it without any off-width technique at all. Of course if you find off-widths fun - go at it! For my part I just clipped the pin and climbed on feeling totally safe. I've clipped a lot worse pro than that in Eldo. The raps were easy, thanks to in info on this site. However, using a single 60 m rope we only just reached the 'bottom' on the third rap. Probably not too bad a down-climb with a 50 m, but watch out. Since the third rap still left us with a little down-climb it would be tempting to do 2 double rope raps instead of 3 singles. However, with all that loose stuff I wouldn't recommend it since you probably have a good chance of getting the rope stuck or pulling rocks onto your head.
Aug 16, 2002
My 2 cents since I LOVED this climb. It's super fun - do it! I unfortunately belayed at the shit station - it was nasty - I opted to stand for that one but it did provide good views and if your partner stops at the next ledge above you won't be there too long. There were some agro birds on this climb-beware of winged dive bombers and some lurking in the cracks. We took a couple doubles of hand sized pieces and they came in handy for stretching pitches.
Jun 3, 2002
As for pitch 4 (which was pitch 3 when we did it), clip the pin and leave your #4 or 3.5 camalot in the car... you would just be taking up extra gear that is heavy and not needed. Don't think of it as an off-width, but more as lieback on top of the bulge/slab and you'll be just fine. I would also highly recommend combining what is described here as pitch 2 and 3. I didn't find it needed, nor inviting, to sit on a pile of pigeon shit. Just make sure before you leave the small roof to traverse right into the crack that you place a long sling on your last piece. Then when you're in the dihedral, put a piece of pro on the right side to "guide" the rope over. On the rappel... trust your instincts on which tree it is with the slings. They are VERY HARD to see from above! If you find yourself going to the farthest south (left looking down) that you could downclimb, then you haven't gone north enough. There is a tree about 50 feet below the ridge in this area with red and blue slings around it, but it's the wrong tree! Just make sure you've gone at least about 100 feet north of the summit before scrambling down to the correct tree. Amazing climb! Not hard for a 5.8, very well protected, and just plain FUN!
May 10, 2002
Wear your helmet! A wonderful climb! Spectacular views. The descent however, was harrowing (loose rock, indirect rappels, spooky class 4 stuff). We choose the first gully to the NW for descent. I strongly recommend choosing the longer walk off (option C for Shirttail) instead of the more direct options.
Apr 16, 2002
The start of this outstanding route is vague and nondescript. If you find yourself wondering where to go on the first-pitch slab, look up and left. A sickle-shaped finger crack on the left wall of a right-facing dihedral, about a hundred feet up and visible from the ground, is a good landmark to shoot for. Best 5.8 in the canyon.
Jan 10, 2002
Re: that pin. If you're standing tall at 5'3" (me), reaching that pin ain't easy, but you can slot in a small stopper below it. Made me feel better.
Nov 3, 2001
Actually, with a 60m rope you can do the route in 2 VERY long pitches. If little gear is placed, you can reach the big tree befor the overhang in a single pitch, then the top in a second. You use EVERY foot of the rope on both pitches. A 70M rope can get you there more comfortably. The raps are reasonable and safe if you are comfortable down-scrambling a bit here and there on 5.2 by the big trees, most particularly to the first fixed rap. Super classic route. One of the finest 5.8s in Eldo.
Sep 7, 2001
I did this route some time ago and it's truly a classic. I remember doing it in three pitches though (60m rope) and don't remember rope drag being much of a problem. The views are worth the 45-minute hike ....
Sep 7, 2001
- Ginseng Junkie
Lead P2. Other pitches are mellow, but after Levin's new guidebook downgraded this to 9+ I was surprised. I thought the move on 2 was harder than at least a dozen 10b/c routes I can think of... it is kind of desperate move to a flexing flake that will likely break off eventually. If you are short, the feet aren't good, and while it protects well, the gear is strenuous to place. I can think of plenty of 10s easier than this, so to downgrade this to 9 is a total sandbag.
Oct 23, 2016
Linked this from Cro-Magnon, and it made for a great 5.10 link-up, although you want to be solid at the grade. The opening crux moves are harder than 5.9. It would make sense to me that, as stated above, something may have broken. At the very least, the move is now solid 5.10. The other comment that caught my attention was the jug you grab to exit the crux being loose. It is loose and is about to pull off. When I grabbed it...it pulled off just a touch, and I'm not talking about flexing. There was no "flex" just a slight detachment outward and the sound of granular sand crunching. The next jug you grab is also suspect. The rest of the pitch has lots of loose or breakable rock that you don't want to touch. This made for some interesting problem solving across a beautiful position... and despite all I just said I really enjoyed it.
Sep 29, 2014
Is it possible that an important foothold has broken off at mid-crux? Maybe I'm going crazy, but the left foot seen in the "Already a hand on the jug" photo just wasn't there. That little bit seemed a lot harder than 5.9 to both me and my partner, especially if the "...5.9 corner past the pine tree..." (Clint) is really 5.9 (which felt more like 5.7-5.8 at most). I humbly suggest that the crux section of GJ is now solid 11.
Dec 20, 2009
With a 60m rope you can summit in one pitch from the top of P2 on Gambit (making for a stellar 2 pitch climb of Shirt Tail Peak). Crux felt more like 5.9/5.9+ than a typical Eldo 10a. We took the first traverse after the crux to meet up with the Tiger Balm Arete and followed it straight to the top. Bring plenty of shoulder length slings to keep rope drag manageable. Highly recommended.
Apr 23, 2009
The jug at the crux felt a bit loose to me. I'm a bigger guys and not a very good climber (lots of weight on my hands) but I'm sure I heard a little cracking. Be safe and have fun.
Apr 21, 2009
From a follower's perspective, the grade may be a bit contrived because the moves are over with so quickly... but the leader may feel much differently. Great variation to Gambit.
Apr 6, 2008
Last pitch has spectacular exposure but the rock quality leaves a bit to be desired, climb carefully.
Apr 12, 2003
Did this yesterday on that fine 75 degree day. Agreed, this felt soft for Eldo 10a because you are through the crux to a nice jug so quickly.I'd think tall people may never find the crux, or for them this could be called a half-move wonder...or one-third move.Still a satisfying move, no matter. We definitely enjoyed the finish continuing after the crux left, as suggested, on Tiger Balm arete; so airy, sooo nice!
Mar 16, 2003
This one move wonder is pretty easy for 5.10, it seems a lot of folks climb it thinking they are still on Gambit. A worthwhile variation in any case.
Jan 10, 2002
- Giuoco Piano Direct
This is a great climb!! I felt comfortable with the gear, but I placed a lot of pro and spent a lot of time perfecting each placement. Having Mastercams and C3s plus a set of small nuts made it feel pretty reasonable, even with the couple short sections of suspect rock. If you're solid at the grade in Eldo, get on this one!
Feb 2, 2013
This route is pretty tough and scary for the grade given -- one of those "Eldo 10c's" that could be 11a and the "s" could be "vs," depending, of course, on if you fell and if all the nuts and tcu's you spent an hour tinkering in behind loose flakes and in chossy cracks actually held (OK placements, not so good rock). The crux is pretty commiting and reachy, but the holds get better and good gear comes just when you really need it.
Jun 1, 2004
- King Of Pain
- Missing Link
Climbed this on Sunday 8-22. Left a seriously over cammed purple #0.5 BD on the roof crack. It's still up there. If someone wants to return it, I'll repay the favor with good karma and beer. If they want to keep it, that's cool too.
Aug 22, 2017
Yes, the first 6 feet are basically saturated in bird crap...but I still thought it was really good climbing with great position. Burly underclinging and awkward jamming with good pro (assuming it doesn't grease out on the crap). Save some 0.5-1 inch gear for above where it is mildly runout 5.8 climbing (but seriously runout if you don't have those sizes).
Oct 21, 2012
I liked this variation. I've climbed it twice, both times in the winter of '07, and it wasn't covered in bird crap. I agree that it is a little harder than Grandmother's Challenge.
May 18, 2007
After waiting 3.7 years (since Feb 2002) for this thing to clean up, I went back to climb it in 10/05. Much to my dismay, it was still full of crap. Figuring that it was not going to clean up soon I figured I might as well just do it.The poo is like teflon, reducing all that would be grippy to a slick powdery coating. It has lost some stench, and is not as pungent as years ago, but I'd still loathe to get it into a cut, or eat with hands dirty from it.The climb is hard at the 10c grade assigned in text by Rossiter, though I note his Topo says 10d. It is considerably harder than Tagger, Grandmother's Challenge, or Sooberb, which I consider to be 'benchmark' 10c's; 10d is probably about right.The moves are cool and clever. If it were not for the crap in it it would be a 3-star [variation]. But it looks like the crap is here to stay, so tape up, put on googles and a dust mask, and tick off one more in Eldo, disease-free.
Oct 17, 2005
This pitch is more than a boulder problem. The crux undercling section is 5.10d, but the small roof above is 10c. Indeed, the bird shit on this pitch is bad and really the only reason not to do the pitch. The disgusting section is quite short, probably just one or two hand placments. The climbing is challenging and cool and would be at least 2-stars if it wasn't for the crap... A variation can be done on the wall just left of the undercling. My partner in fact led it this way and didn't touch any bird shit. It is quite hard though (11a/b?) and you'll get a ways above gear before being able to reach back into the crack to place gear. I followed in the crack and had to do just 1-2 disgusting moves.
Apr 1, 2003
That wasn't chalk Matt, that was bird poo. I went up to do this climb last weekend and backed off. The last straw was [stepping] out onto the overhang and having some crumble into my eye. I ended up finishing on Gambit because the crux underclings were so covered in crap.
Feb 19, 2002
- Moriarty's Mistake
- Moriarty's Revenge
- Mountaineer's Route
I climbed this Saturday and found P1 to be difficult for 5.5 (especially close to the top) and difficult to protect (especially near the bottom). It's definitely worth mentioning that there is a LOT of loose rock in the gully, especially around the 1st belay tree. The plentiful dirt in the inauspicious P2 gully is also slippery as hell. P3 was a beautiful short cruise to the summit. We walked right past the top of the rap going West, and only found it backtracking after about 30 minutes of talus wandering. Good day overall, but I definitely won't leave my sneakers (or water) at the bottom if I make the trip again.
Sep 24, 2007
The name says it all.
Aug 31, 2004
This route fits its name well. Funky rock on pitch 1 and bushwhacking in the upper dihedral. The cruxes are generally not as well protected as you might like, but they are short. We tired of the pine needles and ferns in the upper slot and moved right to the arete. This is better climbing but more runout. Worth doing, but Gambit is a much better route.
Oct 17, 2003
A good route, but even 2 stars was generous considering all things, like the approach and the descent and the like. I wouldn't put this on any of my pals hit-lists, but I wouldn't cross it off either. It was about the hardest 5.5 I've done in Eldo. With Snow it can be hard to get off of, as it is way up in elevation and the scramble from the peak to the walk off is dirty and collects snow. Be careful. It's a serious pain in the butt to try to go East around from the summit- I have done it that way once. One star from me. It was kinda good, but nothing I'd put on someone's hit list. I milled around at the base of this one trying to find a way to do it that seemed like 5.5. After a while, i gave up and climbed something that felt like 5.7 just to get on it.
Mar 21, 2003
After that flake, I chose not to do the sketchy roof and went right to some decent pro, hoping to then climb up the slab. Ran out of pro, so did an unprotected but easy traverse hard left, eventually belaying at a tree --- not the tree 200 feet up. This is one way around that roof, but rope drag is an issue. Tricky first pitch.
Aug 25, 2002
Indeed, after re-reading it does seem we followed the same line...upon reflection I found the climb quite nice - especially stemming in the huge corner and the highline along the arete. I have no idea how to make the first pitch 5.5 though! I suggest throwing down the guanlet and calling it 5.7 outright. As in "Mountaineer's Route?, yeah, thought provoking 5.7" instead of "Mountaineer's Route? Uggh, I broke my ankle thinking learning to climb on that one. I thought it would be like the Dome."
Apr 24, 2002
Sounds like we did the start about the same way, micheal. up to the large detached flake, up over the mini roof, with ok gear--kinda sketchy. then up to another mini roof (where the gear was great--2 friend/purple alien in a little slot at your head) but then a couple way sketchier moves to get above that to easier climbing. i also threw some sort of layback moves in there. inobvious sequences which made me think a longgg time! Definitely not 5.5, but fun anyway!
Apr 22, 2002
The name says it all, what an adventure. That first pitch was a wonder - as in "I wonder if this is the route?". We started at the base of the wall, not going right, but slightly left of the base, scrambling cl 4 up to the face proper belaying at some small trees. I went up to this huge detached flake thingy laying on the face, passing on the right (and getting pro in finally) and was confronted with a roof. To get up onto the slab above, I placed a mid sized stopper in the crack and smeared/liebacked my way up to a good purple alien (a big sigh of relief), then sketched my way to the large trees at a nice belay ledge after about 80' (maybe?) with some large trees. The huge V slot was now up and climbers right. I decided to belay here and was pretty comfortable - I was sketched out by the moves - how could that have been 5.5?? The v-slot was more like 5.5 for sure - forget chimneying - stemming this baby was a blast! I again belayed at the HUGE pine at the top of the v-slot, tending with unbelievable care not to rain rocks down on my belayer. The next pitch was the best, following cracks up the face left of the arete running it 198' to the ridge crest and some belay cracks. The summit was a scramble. I certainly wouldn't call this awesome, maybe two stars. Challenging down low and aesthetic up high with objective dangers and route finding needed. And that first pitch - wow, I feel pretty good having pieced together that puzzle - even for a "5.5"....
Apr 8, 2002
True, true. We'll say two stars. It was my first route submission, and I must've gotten a little excited.
Feb 26, 2002
Sorry to disagree but I'm not sure this one deserves 3 stars. Summit is nice. Climbing is ok, at best. The 1st pitch is inobvious. Swanson's or Icarus are far better climbs in this difficulty range in Eldo.
Feb 25, 2002
- Mrs. Clean Gets Down
I actually got a "tiny wire" in before the bolt. It was about equal in size to the second "tiny wire" above the crux. This helps calm the nerves as you go for the bolt. It's not that hard or scary though. The "tiny wire" above the crux might hold a fall, but the moves are considerably easier (5.9ish?). I probably would not have even placed it, or even looked for it, if it weren't for the description in the book. I had the piece so I might as well use it, right? In regards to pulling the crux, yes you are well over the bolt but the fall is totally clean (and safe)- believe me, I know.
Apr 30, 2007
- Serrated Jam Crack
The guidebook gives this a PG-13 rating...I'd give it PG-. I disagree with the idea that there's gear all over, but it's not totally desperate either. Outside the crux, you have many choices. At the crux, there's a smallish pocket fit for a middle Alien. I agree that this is a totally worthwhile option, esp. if you're three deep waiting for Gambit like we were.
Aug 15, 2016
Hey smokie, this is Gary, Gary B.. I heard you are peenning a new guidebook. Pen this. I thought Eldo was one of the better ski areas in the Front Range. Gary Burghoff
May 2, 2008
Lots of pro options before the crux, after the crux and all over this route.
Apr 21, 2007
I climbed this yesterday and found the section after the roof a bit run out and quite terrifying. I seem to remember not being able to get in any worthy gear for quite a ways and since my last piece was far below me a fall would have been hospital material.In my opinion this climb should have a R or S rating for the section after the roof. The climbing was sustained and the feet we're lousy. Once you reach the section where the two climbs split you can get in gear but not anything (I found) before that. If you popped you would fall past the roof to the ledge below......
Jun 16, 2003
This is definitely a nice route, the name mislead me, however. I went up there assuming it was the Eldo equivalent of Yosemite's "Meatgrinder" (an epic, hand shredding crack). What a surprise to discover the crux is face and the crack itself is much easier. I also recommend Cro-Magnon as more continuous in difficulty. These two climbs are for some reason very seldom done, especially compared to the crowds on Gambit.
Mar 17, 2003
- Sorenson Crack
- Throne, The
Awesome pitch. Really good climbing and good position. The nut before the crux bolt was ~#4 BD stopper and was bomb-proof I used a small Alien below that and a blue Alien between the last and second to last bolts. Save for that and QDs, you don't need a rack to speak of. Hard to flash but not terrible moves for average folks. HOWEVER, this would be very hard for short folks to do at all. The rap-anchor was partially refurbished 5/08. The rap to ledge is 100' to 110' or so, not 150' as stated in the Rossiter book. ! 70M makes it easily, I SUSPECT that a 60M might too. Regardless, you can finish to the summit by continuing 6 meters past the rap anchor to join Gambit at the belay ledge above.
May 12, 2008
- Tiger Balm Arete
I went up with little beta was drawn into climbing the variation. I couldn't remember how many bolts were at the crux (1 or 2), so I climbed up to the obvious second bolt before realizing I was now on a bolted line. Oh well. The variation is fun, but I can attest from my experience that it does draw climbers, particularly those with sketchy beta, off a classic route. Guess I'll have to go back when I want a good scare. Moral of the story -- head right after the first bolt if you want to climb the original line.
Mar 10, 2014
Just to keep the record straight here---the first ascent of the line was by Bob Culp and George Hurley in 1965. I don't know the details re: amount of aid used, but knowing those two as I do, there probably wasn't much at all. This was done shortly after the first ascent of Gambit.
Mar 27, 2012
The swing potential at the crux is an issue for the second. When I followed this pitch, I tried to leave the quickdraw clipped and reach down after getting the good hold after the crux move. This was difficult to do, since my belayer was keeping me tight. I would suggest clipping a 2 ft runner to the bolt, which would make this process possible. I don't think the bolted variation to the left affects this route. The serious part is getting in good small gear (or the #5) after the crux. A fall here might put you on the ledge below. The runout on the upper slab is pretty mellow with positive holds. (~5.7R)
Oct 12, 2011
Oh well, everyone makes mistakes, Stu. I have been aspiring to test my mettle on Tiger Balm Arete and had no knowledge of the variation until I read this post. Ugghhh...to be honest, the bolts do take a little away from the test I was about to present to myself. I think maybe I'll do both ways...I won't say I'm unhappy about an out-of-character bolted route in Eldo until I try it...
Sep 12, 2008
Tony, and all familiar with variation I called "Eye of the Tiger" to the left of Tiger Balm. I placed the application for this route with the FHRC in 2001. It was open to inspection and public comment for several months. The final consensus was 12 positive and 4 negative comments. If you care to read the exact comments, check the FHRC archives. I have led both climbs several times and have found that one really needs to make an effort, and stray way off route to access the "new" bolts from Tiger Balm. It was never my intent to "infringe" upon a great mental classic like Tiger Balm. If that has been the unintended result, I sincerely apologize. Stu Ritchie
Jun 6, 2008
This past weekend, I did Tiger Balm Arete for the first time since it was retrobolted. Perhaps some might say "since a variation was added to it" but that is not how it felt to me. It felt like the route was changed. Sorry, I tried to be all zen-like and accept the change, but 24 hours later, it is still not happening for me. Prior to this time I held my comments, for lack of having done it both ways. But now I feel I have put in the requisite work to formulate an informed and well-grounded opinion of the situation. The 'variation' is a different route. It really is, no sarcasm intended. It has good climbing, probably 3 stars out of 4. Even if it shared no space with TBA, it would be 2 out of 4- good climbing with its own merit. It is worth bolting and having and climbing. But... Not at the expense of the superior quality and historical precedent of Tiger Balm Arete. Yesterday, after doing a pitch to feel out how my day would be, to see if I felt solid and secure, to test my muscles and balance, to test my head... I threw down the rope at the base and headed up on lead. I placed a small green Alien in the horizontal at the base, grabbed the starting holds, took a deep breath and looked my partner seriously in the eye- "If I fall above that bolt, you yard in rope and jump down there to take in slack. There are broken people from that fall. You know what I mean?" "Yes, I have you." I worked up the trust in myself and my belayer, then cast off. I went up to the less-than-perfect feet, clipped the bolt, and then started up the off-angled holds and onto the crux crimp. I locked off hard and got both feet left and hit the big reach square like I wanted. I breathed again, looking up, then down. I continued past the bolt, placing a pretty bad stopper and clipped that with a screamer. I made a few more moves and passed a small Alien placement, skipping that for lack of having one with me (small fuss here) and continued a few more moves into ledge-fall territory. I arrived at the 4.5 Camalot placement in the horizontal, and looked up at the easier climbing to come. I was done- "In there" so to speak.... I breathed a sign of relief. I looked over left at the bolt just a move down and thought... "Hmmm, so that is the 'new line.' From the 5.9 slab, I backed down a few moves and went left to the bolt from just below it and clipped it, continuing up that line. Along it I encountered an insecure independent crux on the line at the near top by a slight overlapping seam. It was interesting and challenging climbing. I sort of felt like I'd climbed Tiger Balm Arete for the 3rd time. But then again, not quite.... I had approached Tiger Balm with some level of nervousness both this time and prior to now. I climbed a pitch or two to be sure I was "on" that day. I shook out and stretched, meditating a little before getting on it, thinking to myself, "it's OK, you DON'T fall on 5.9s." I tested the holds and my grip, I tried to stay focused, and then went for it with some anxiety. Thus is the Eldo ritual of climbing R-rated routes- routes with reps. "The leader must not fall" was the standard, and for that matter, mostly can't bail out either. For other history, philosophy, or points of view on this ethic (mostly similar), you can refer to the articles on Eldo climbing that have been in the mags over the years, including the recent one featuring Hank. But this route, Tiger Balm Arete, has now been diminished. No longer must a climber aspire to it, no longer must we approach it with the respect that it once demanded, nor wait until the time was right and the feeling was there. No longer will the ritual be necessary, no longer need we wait for the right day. No longer will it be left highlighted, but unchecked in 100 guidebooks, as a dream of stronger days. Now we can just go for it in sport style. If you get up there and are not feeling the love, just reach one move left and go sport climbing. The left way is a good route, after all, right?!?! And safe! There is no real need to commit anymore. It's now a cheap Vegas wedding with a pre-nup and severance/divorce paperwork pre-signed, just waiting for your first fight for an excuse to bail out. So if you feel that the mental experience of climbing is not the real experience, and that all things should have safe bail-out and alternatives...and if you feel that the physical part of climbing is really where it is at, and that rite and ritual are not a part of the game...and if you think that a new-router should have this creative license to wipe out what once was to put in something new.... Only then could I say that there is a great new addition to climbing in Eldo for you to experience. But instead, I say there is one less.
May 27, 2007
Although folks have mentioned a lot of gear for the "5.9+ VS" part, this gear is all marginal. Due to its flaring nature, I don't think the horizontal will accept a large cam which is capable of holding a fall. Also, the initial gear placements in the shallow dihedral are junk.No way does the mank I got in there hold a fall (I tinkered there for at least 15 minutes). A bomber RP placement comes after pulling the trickiest moves (9+ seems about right), but climbers should expect a horrible 15-20 foot ledge fall should they blow the sequence getting there. I think this route deserves an S/VS (on 9+) rating.
May 5, 2004
Sorry about the multiple voting on the quality and grade. It's easy to do when you're submitting multiple comments and using the Back button to submit each comment.
Dec 21, 2003
I don't get the 9s/7s (Rossiter/Tony) rating of the slab above the crux. Step right after the crux to the base of the thin crack. Get good gear (see post below). Angle right for more gear. To keep it "pure", climb more or less above the thin crack on good, positive holds stepping right occasionally for gear (felt like 5.6 to me, and I'm not bold, and I'm not a slab climber). The last 30' is runout 4s. If you insist on being "pure", sure you can make it 7s or 9s. Just don't put gear in 6' to the right, and avoid all the holds, moving left to make it harder (but not too far, or you'll be on the 11a bolt variation).
Dec 21, 2003
Last pitch: I think Tony is mistaken saying the start of pitch 3 is the same as for Ginseng Junkie. From the belay tree, Tiger Balm goes straight up over a 10a ceiling with finger crack, into a dihedral, continuing past a ledge to a roof. My old guide books say left around the roof; Rossiter and Tony say traverse right beneath the roof. Tony calls it a "hand traverse", but the biggest handholds are about two half tips. This is a dangerous traverse with somewhat dirty footholds. No gear after the start, and you're climbing up towards the arête. Fall, and you'll hit the corner hard. Better might be to get gear at the roof, climb back down and climb the 5.8 face that Tony describes, with a partial toprope. Ginseng Junkie climbs an orange dihedral about 10' further right and stays right of the arête (haven't done it, but looked at it from above and below and compared what I saw with the guidebook description). As for the final arête, in my opinion it doesn't compare with Yellow Spur. It's easier and far less precarious.
Dec 21, 2003
Gear: When I do this again, this is what I'd bring on the crux pitch: #00 Metolius TCU, double green to red Aliens, a #9 HB offset nut, approximately 5 long slings, some draws, and whatever gear you need to clip the bolt (a few nuts, a long sling, and some draws). For the pitches above and below, add a few more long slings and draws, #0.5 to #1 Camalots, and a full set of nuts. I'd climb the crux with double rope (70m folded in half) to protect the second from swinging right falling off the crux. Run one rope straight up from the bolt. Above the bolt step right and place the #9 HB at the bottom of the thin crack. The placement is hard to see since it's in a shallow right facing corner. Step up and place the #00 TCU at the bottom of a slightly flared thin crack. Both of these pieces are good. Now step right ASAP to get in balance, and life is good. Up right is a horizontal that takes a #3 Camalot (if you have one), but you can get an Alien a couple feet higher. Gear continues in this crack/groove, and you can climb the clean face further left. Near the top you can get a good green Alien before the final runout but very easy 30'. Tony suggests a #4.5 or #5 Camalot above the crux. I misread his post and brought a #4 Camalot. It barely hung in there on a step at the upper end of the wide crack below the thin crack. A #4.5 would work great there if you want to carry it, and it might work further left, more directly above the bolt (to protect the second), but the crack is slightly flared there.
Dec 21, 2003
A little history from my old Ament (5.10 and Eldorado) and Jim Erickson (Rocky Heights) guides: The FA of Tiger Balm was done in 1965 by George Hurley and Bob Culp with a "bit of aid". I wonder how they aided it? There are no scars where the free variation goes. Hooks? Further right? It was freed in 71 by Jim Erickson, _placing a protection bolt from below_. Using aid? It's awfully hard hanging around below the crux even with two hands on the rock. All three off these old guidebooks call it 5.10 (!). The third pitch is described as follows: "A short 5.8 move" (Eldorado), "Climb a bulge" (9-, Rocky Heights). This move felt like a 10a ceiling to me. Both of these guides describe the route as angling left, presumably past the left edge of the roof a little higher up, and then back right to the arête. Rossiter and Tony above describe the route as traversing right below the roof to gain the arête (9s, looking at slamming into the wall).
Dec 21, 2003
Put the aid back in! I think that as an 11, this is maybe 1 1/2 stars. There's only about 10' of hard climbing, the crux reach followed by a few strenuous pulls. After you get the gear above that it's an easy slab (felt like 5.6) with gear on the right. The first pitch is about 5.8. The third pitch is 9s (s in my opinion, since if you fall on the thin moves, you'll hit the corner, hard). If you're a solid 11 climber, do the 4-bolt 11a variation mentioned above, and finish on Ginseng Junkie. If you're a solid 10a/b climber, go for it. Try the crux, hang if necessary, aid on the bolt if necessary. Finish on Ginseng Junkie.
Dec 21, 2003
Yesterday, I did the new 5.11a, 4 bolt extension to the crux pitch. After TBA's crux move, go left toward the first bolt ("ok" green Alien), then up a beautiful stretch of pebbled slab. After the last bolt run it out on EZ terrain to an older bolt and #3 Friend belay stance. There is a 2 bolt rap (30M to a ledge, then downclimb)just to the left of this belay.... In my opinion this is a worthy addition and in no way alters the original finish! Classic! P.S. I happened to break the only! loose foothold on the line, so now it's super clean.
May 8, 2002
- Windlass or 'The Tail'
- Sobo
- Bo Diddley
I put in a pink tricam as my first piece in the seam. A red would also go in and possibly be better. For me this made the pitch safe enough. Also got in a nest of RPs, but for me the tricam was by far the best of the bunch. If this gear blew, you would be lucky not to deck. Awesome climbing!
Jan 19, 2010
- Cruising for Bulgar
The texture is certainly aggressive, but the rock is pretty good after the first few feet. Maybe I liked the climb because it was a crack-climb and had some relatively difficult jamming and cruxes. I honestly thought both Crusing For Bulgar and Good Cleavage were great pitches, but too short to really call 3-star routes. It's always debatable I guess. Tape would definately add to the enjoyment factor, or rather the absence of it subtracts from the potential. I have some scrapes from the acsent & generally speaking I don't have any such problem.
Feb 26, 2002
I remember this crack being somewhat rotten, and I didn't think this route was as nice as "Good Cleavage". One star?
Feb 26, 2002
Although the guidebook gives this climb 5.10a, it really deserves the 5.10b/c that Tony gives it. Tape is very definitely recommended!
Feb 26, 2002
- Dreams Of Darkness
I thought this route was pretty unique and fun. A #5 Camalot just barely fits at the crux, but it's pretty tipped out, so it's not too inspiring! Also, I had a fairly large block rip out on the roof, so be careful of loose rock!
Sep 23, 2006
- Dreams Of Light
- Good Cleavage
This is a fun pitch, I don't think we took anything larger than a #3 Camalot. Only drawback is the long walk for just one pitch. Best to do all the climbs on SoBo when you walk up here ...
Mar 12, 2002
- Marsupial
- Reckless Abandoned
- Seamed Like Fun.
I soloed this for the FFA while being the third man out, or was that fifth? on Sunday. Good line, worth doing, especially as a TR once on top of the other routes and simply walking left along the ledge system. I'm also calling it Seamed Like Fun.
May 6, 2008
- Sick and Wrong
Inadvertent creativity. A shame indeed.
Apr 2, 2002
- Sugar Glider
- Split Block
- Escergot
Barely squeaks by with one star.
Apr 4, 2007
- Nuts and Volts
Split Block does not see heavy traffic, which is Precisely why I was there on a July 4th holiday (and did not see a soul). I felt that there were some complex moves, but none that were dominated by insecurity and an objective hazard of slipping. When I lead this route I felt that the spacing of the pro was part of its unique charactor. The route is different than other Eldo routes and, in my opinion, should be left that way.
Jan 14, 2002
Alan, that's a very well argued statement about differing bolting styles. Totally agree with all of it. One minor point is that all the rocks north of and including Cadillac are part of the Boulder Parks/Open Space, and are subject to their rules, which currently forbid all bolting.
Jan 13, 2002
Great piece of history! Fairly good climbing, but way runout getting to the second bolt. Now I know why. Definitely worthy of an "s" rating. Maybe one star. About the only thing I recall was thinking that if you blow the second clip, (and you will be getting pumped here as the some of the hardest moves are getting to this bolt, and the holds seem kinda rounded) you actually may hit the ground. There is a flake crack low down, but either I failed to protect it properly or else it seemed hollow or funky/friable. Or maybe it is just miles below you by the time you get to the second bolt. All in all, both the 5.10 bolt routes on Split Rock are bolted so as to be dangerous; neither has the bolts where they will protect the cruxes. Sometimes bolts drilled from hooks/lead make for some of the best pitchesin Eldo (Doub Griffith, Pansee Sauvage etc), but here they seem like good arguments for rap-bolting.
Jan 3, 2002
- Ohmer's Odyssey
Really fun pitch. Build an anchor on the right just shy of the end with a few 1/2"-3/4" pieces and lower. (If you're going to walk this far, everyone in the party should get to lead it. Last guy gets a second lap.)
Mar 14, 2016
A 5.10 crux in the first 15' with 5.7-5.8 climbing after that.
Apr 4, 2007
...still wigglin'.
Apr 9, 2006
Worth the hike. A beautiful crack. #4 for the beginning. Don't trust the jug to the right in the beginning you don't need it.
Mar 8, 2006
The loose hold still wiggles. Great climb. Well worth it, if ever in the area. A #4 is nice to shove in while wondering if the jug is going to snap off......
Apr 18, 2005
An excellent climb with superb pro to hone in your crack skills. The loose flake on the right is still loose. Just a side note - the walk off to the south takes about 2 minutes, probably safer/cleaner than strangling the old tree above Perry Meson.
Jul 26, 2004
The loose block is still there . . . a 3.5 was helpful, as were doubles in hand sizes as well as some hexes . . . leave the stoppers at home. terrific route.
Oct 27, 2003
What a view! Watch for the loose jug out right about 8' up.
Dec 16, 2002
Classic Jim Erickson 5.9. An old fashioned climb. The "small roof" is actually pretty burly, and dumps you straight into a short section of left-leaning offwidth. You may want to bring something larger than a #3 Friend. Above here the rest is real fun, like the nice pitch at the base of Rincon, but without the crowds. Definitely without the crowds.
Jan 3, 2002
- Perry Meson
A 50 meter rope (if one still happens to have one of those) will work fine, with plenty left over. Be aware that a tree has fallen at the top of the climb, and that a rappel rope would lay right over it, semi-precariously. Not a deal-killer, but something to consider. Something else to consider is that...you can walk off...either way.
Apr 9, 2006
- White Dwarf
Crux is getting to the first bolt. A fall between bolts 2 and 3 would potentially result in a ground fall.
Apr 4, 2007
When I climbed this a couple years ago, I spent a lot of time and energy trying to boulder out the moves to the firtst bolt. I kept getting to about one move shy of clipping. Scary; it would be a long hike back to the car with a broken ankle. Finally I gave up and ferreted out a very long branch to stick clip the bolt. This is definitely the way to go, as the crux is gaining the bolt, and clipping it is in the middle of one of the hardest moves. Maybe this was drilled from a hook placement? With a stick clip the climb becomes enjoyable. I recall 3/8" bolts. If this was more thoughtfully bolted, it would deserve two stars, as the climbing is high quality, on great edges. Anyone know who did the first ascent?
Jan 3, 2002
Can't recall what the bolts were, but I was never for fear of one breaking on me when I did the route a few years ago. I think that they were pretty good. If I recall correctly, the crux was some thin stuff at the beginning of the route.
Dec 13, 2001
- Supremacy Rock
- Cold War
A great climb, but this route does not have its own anchors. You can use the Web's anchors, but this involves either a 10-15 foot dicey traverse or reaching down from the top of the slab (scary without gear). I believe the first ascent goes to J.B. Tribout
Mar 15, 2004
- Northeast Arete
This is a surprisingly good free solo. Positive holds, beautiful quartzite, and an interesting view of the canyon near sunset. The initial moves are positive with, per the description, a flat and reasonably friendly fall zone. The difficulty then eases after the first 10-15 feet. Will feel nostalgic for ex-Devil's Lake regulars (where it would not have a 5.7 rating).
Jun 12, 2015
- Northwest Arete
- Overhanging Arete
Great, fun route. Easy to TR.
Jun 9, 2010
- Play Time
- Quartzite Ridge
BTW, this route is either a solo or a short-rope practice climb. 98% of it is 3rd-4th class, but there are a couple of "stopper" moves in the 5.4 range with no fall consequences. There are plenty of places, however, where a trip or stumble on the easiest ground would result in a 150' groundfall. If you're comfortable soloing the 3rd Flatty, this one's for you. And it has no down-climb at the end.
Nov 18, 2011
I can't believe this thing has been under my nose for 35 years and I haven't seen it. Hidden gem?
Nov 18, 2011
- Right Wall
Finger-size cams for the anchor.
May 16, 2014
- Route 0
Might be a good option to teach a kid to place gear.
Aug 22, 2015
- Simple Simon Slab
Several times I have set up a TR on this route for beginners, it is OK for this although it is a slippery slab, rather un-Eldo like, although beginners do not care. There are cracks on the top for anchoring, but they are not bombproof enough to take falls from many directions. The tree visible in the above photo is the best anchor, but you need a 50' sling or spare rope to rig it.
Jul 12, 2004
- Slabbery
- Supremacy Crack
Found a chalk bucket under this route, pm me with color and brand, and it's yours.
May 25, 2017
Damn, Pat. I can't even imagine trying to swing a hammer on this thing.
May 4, 2014
Mic-Dude! Those shorts are positively erotic....
Mar 22, 2010
Great story and historical background regarding this climb. Thanks, Pat!
Nov 28, 2009
More stories, Pat!
Nov 27, 2009
I climbed Supremacy Crack one morning in the spring of 1965, soon after Dave Rearick discovered it and showed it to me. I did it with a very loose top rope. I had very little experience with hand-jams, so I really didn't quite know what to do. I didn't much try the crack that day with Rearick, because I was terrified of the big swing if I fell. Soon after, though, I went up there just to show the climb to a few other friends, such as Bob Culp and Tex Bossier. No one really wanted to try it even. Because my biggest fear was the swing on the rope if I fell, I could hardly focus on the crack. But I took Rearick's advice and simply practiced the swing a couple times to get over the fear of it. Then I could pay attention solely to the crack. I soon got the hang of how to jam my hands and went right up that morning with Roger. He belayed me and was surprised to see me go so quickly and smoothly up the crack. That was the first ascent. In the fall of 1966, a little over a year later, I climbed Ruper with Don Whillans, my legendary British friend, who pioneered so many great climbs in Wales and elsewhere in England. Royal Robbins was with us, and I had the thought one of them might want to make the first lead of Supremacy. We walked up there, and neither wanted to try it, but they insisted I try. I had not thought about it at all, but to make a long story short I led up and made it a full body length past the crux, to the big bomber handjam. Pitons don't go into this crack very well. I had no nuts or Friends or any type of cam... which DO go in very well and easily. But I hung there and tried to get in a piton. It went in part way, but the crack didn't taper, and it stopped half way in but not set well. I had to hammer it out, and this sort of thing went on, until I was really tired. When the next piton got stuck again, half way in but not very good, I decided to clip into it, and I took some tension on the piton to recover strength. Once I got the piton in, I led up the remainder of the crack solidly. If I'd had a Friend or nut, I could have easily placed it. Oh well. It wasn't a perfect lead, but Royal sanctioned it and thought it was close enough to count. I later returned and climbed it without any sort of rest. I have never cared to set any records, because in fact I could climb the crack ten times per day, if I wanted, but at a casual rate, now and then returning to the crack, I have done over 60 ascents of the crack, quite a number of which were leads. Most people don't realize the shoes we had back then, how bad they actually were, although this climb doesn't really matter, in terms of shoes. But only pitons and a hammer made it much more difficult. And the general consciousness was such that we were not nearly as trained as climbers are today... who grow up in rock gyms. Supremacy was a high standard for its day. The right kind of spirits among today's elite recognize that those were different times, and that 5.11 in the mid-1960s might be comparable to 5.15 today. It was the top of the standard. When Peter Croft, a master crack climber, free soloed Supremacy, he phoned me and complimented me for such a great route. He was fully aware of the significance of doing it back when I did. That kind of generosity has always impressed me. Peter also phoned me on another occasion when he finally repeated a boulder route of mine in Yosemite (Camp 4). He had worked for a long time on what they named "Ament's Arete" and was very happy to finally figure it out. A small point. I would not refer to Supremacy as a climb of "thin hands." Maybe that is true right at the crux, but certainly not all the way. It's a climb much about footwork on an overhanging wall, and hands in a crack for inward support as feet take the weight.
Nov 27, 2009
I was pleased to TR this thing, more years ago than I'll admit, with only one fall down low. The swing was memorable and fun! My one-legged partner, on the other hand, did it free and clean. I still don't have an excuse!
Aug 2, 2007
Insanely Awesome. I consider myself a fairly strong crack climber, but this thing whooped my ass something proper. This is the first Eldo 11 I've tried to lead, and now is the nostalgic ground of my first real whips on gear. I'll be back for it. I refuse to consider myself a real climber until I can solo this climb in flip flops.
Nov 26, 2006
Being Okies from SoIll with no jamming skills back in the mid-70s we used to layback it.
Jan 31, 2006
The first photo here is hilarious! It reminds me of that famous photo of John Sherman apparently soloing some desperate Aussie line with a full bottle of beer on one hand... Thanks, Mic!
Nov 3, 2003
Definitely tape up before you get on! I took two scary falls and also sliced the backs of both hands as a result. Sharp rock. I wonder if climbs w_ll ever get WT and WOT grades in the future? :) Killer climb though. Inspired by Jeff Acheys book "Climb" to give it a try. First lead was with hammer and pitons according to it.
Jul 19, 2003
Eldorado Canyon : Free Climbing as Ancient Greece : Western Civilization.
Mar 13, 2002
Agreed. I was able to garner a plenty-sufficient pump on TR. I think of what it must have been like placing slung square-sided nuts back in the day and am reminded yet again how spoiled we are today. Generation SLCD. Not coincidentally, that day of Ament's "FFA" also saw the introduction, by the visiting Don Whilans and Royal Robbins, of clean pro to Eldorado. Various of Ament's books (High Over Boulder, for one) provide memorable images of that day. A trio of climbing legends on Ruper.
Oct 29, 2001
"Pumpy without cams." ??!!! Steep stuff. Lots of history here for a short route. Candidate for the first 5.11 to go free in Colorado, although some controversy surrounded Ament's initial claim to have freed it. (He subsequently led the pitch without the "few moments' rest" on a piton.) Peter Croft onsighted the thing... free solo.
Oct 29, 2001
- Supremacy Girdle
- Supremacy Slab
Lead again today. A bad brass nut to a very very good blue Alien at almost 20'. Then a so-so green Camalot or red Alien, then a bad but "I'll take what I get" grey Alien, then a few bad stoppers, then a cam in a horizontal out left toward the arete. Up and right there to the top with a few placements in odd spots, but the climbing is mellow. It is runout for sure but not X if you are creative. Certainly R though.
May 14, 2017
Memory lane: I was the first person to do an unprotected lead of Supremacy Slab back in the summer of 1961. Bob Boucher and I had just attempted the Yellow Spur, but we were both off our form that day, so we bailed out and vowed to return on a better day. On the hike out, we passed the Slab, and I said to Bob, "This hasn't ever been free climbed, has it?" "Want to redeem yourself?" he chuckled. "Why not?" I replied, and so said, so done. What a rush that was!
Mar 23, 2013
Very cool rock, very different from anything else in Boulder. The quartzite is like climbing polished glass with sharp edged cracks for holds. Definitely worth it as a change of pace. The face is low-angled and delicate, balancy climbing. Best done as a TR.
Jun 9, 2010
Fun toprope. You can set a gear anchor by scrambling up the left side, traversing to a ledge on the northeast arete, and finding some low cracks. As a 9+ I was expecting it to be a little bit harder than it seemed.
Jun 19, 2005
TRed this one yesterday. TR anchors possible with about 40' of webbing slung around one of the boulders in the gully to the east and a couple cams on the small ledge at near the top of the NE arette. Somewhat contrived, but solid. Anchor ends up directly over the large tree at the base of the wall and is okay for either side of the slab (either left or right of the tree, that is). The climb is pretty sustained with lots of small, shallow handholds along steep cracks and feet in the occasional patches of roughness and small divots. The rock texture elsewhere is like polished steel and smearing is, if not impossible, not a reliable method of upward movement. As with all such climbs, my height probably helped and made it easier than it could be for someone less than six feet. In any case, very enjoyable climb with supremely easy access.
Sep 23, 2003
I toproped this 5/5/2002. Super fun climb--delicate holds on a very nice angled slab. The rock is too smooth to smear, though. FYI, I used 60 ft of static line to set up the toprope.
May 6, 2002
- Time Out
It feels about 5.2 at the most difficult part.
Aug 12, 2013
- Web, The
Very fun mini-route. Complex and powerful movement. Missing anchor bolt replaced, thank you.
Nov 20, 2012
I see lots of comments about it being a great photo climb. So where's the photos!? If anyone has some great shots, please post them here! Thanks!
Jun 3, 2010
Chris Hill here- Usually I spell my name without the question mark at the end. I did the FA w/ Christian Griffith in November 1986. It was the 3rd 5.13 in Eldorado SP, at the time. This was before power drills, so we hand drilled the bolts on rappel. I'm actually impressed that the bolts lasted 21 years, and thankful that they were recently replaced. I'm glad that people still get out and have fun on that little pitch.
May 4, 2008
Whomever replaced the bolts did an excellent job! The replacement bolts are located approximately 3 or 4 inches right of where the original Mammut ring bolts used to be. The patching job is quality in that you really have to look hard to determine where the old holes used to be. The new hardware appears to be Fixe 12mm SS wedge bolts w/ ASCA-branded camo Fixe hangers w/ Fixe double rings at the anchors. Great hardware although when it's time to replace the bolts again (which may not be that far off [5-10 years?] given the recent traffic on the route, the steep angle, and the volume of large falls at bolts 2 and 4), new holes will have to be drilled yet again (for the third time). Also, the wedge bolts are really prone to spinning hangers. Despite the aforementioned, the rebolting job is excellent overall and special thanks to the "friendly Argentinean guy" for a quality job.
Nov 18, 2007
Looking up this route again for my blog (mountainsandwater.blogspot.com) I read Ken's comment today. Perhaps mountainproject administrators can add an icon for whether a climb offers good conditions for photo shoots. That said, Ken, the description is satirical. By the way, in a recent Sportiva ad, the route is rated 13c. Is Sportiva trying to say that the new Solution makes 13a/b routes 13c? As an aging climber myself I would prefer shoes that make routes easier not harder. Sportiva posing another aging climber on the Web seems only to reinforce my description of this venerable classic. Did Rolo replace the bolts? Were they donated to the Neptune Climbing Museum?
Nov 17, 2007
Time goes on and things continue to change, those vintage Mammut bolts are finally gone, replaced with new equipment by a friendly Argentinian guy.
Jun 11, 2007
Peter, your satire wasn't lost on me, although the description is off, IMO. The Web is a bona fide Eldo classic, and it still sees its fair share of traffic. It has everything (great movement, steep, sustained angle, ease of access, and stellar conditions for photo shoots). Moreover, there are two warm-up routes within five feet of it. This was one of my early 5.13s, and it took me forever to get it, but I never got bored climbing the route. For the climbers out there who call it a boulder problem - two words: I'll watch.
Jul 16, 2005
Schnikes....more like rest before the first bolt, and after clipping the anchors.
Apr 4, 2004
Do things never get better, only worse? Or is it just this age crap? While a lot of hot lines have been developed around Boulder in the last decade, The Web is still a real test piece that can leave your ego plundered and your forearms abused, and pitching the pink lycra may not simplify things very much. On the other hand, The Web is hard to beat if you are just looking for a bruising work out with zero approach. Over the years, The Web may have gotten more difficult - it seems from my foggy memmory that some of the square cut edges between the first and second clip are missing, forcing all of the initial action on to the sloping, greasy side pulls. Getting utterly thrashed on this line reminds me of a truism that was batted around at CATS years ago: "if you want to climb hard, then you have to climb hard". What that always meant to me was that no amount of pulling at a softer grade adequately prepares you for how hard you have to pull to pull at the harder grade. Unfortunately, that seems to demand that some percentage of one's climbing is going to be spent working in the beginners mode. On the other hand, it's inspiring, and even daunting, to realize that a lot climbers in Boulder make this look easy. There must be a lot of folks out there paying dues for nothing more than the simple satisfaction of doing well something that is very difficult.
May 12, 2003